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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/35659-8.txt b/35659-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5091950 --- /dev/null +++ b/35659-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8130 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent +of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793, by Alexander Mackenzie + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793 + Vol. II + +Author: Alexander Mackenzie + +Release Date: March 22, 2011 [EBook #35659] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL II *** + + + + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + + + + +VOYAGES from MONTREAL +THROUGH THE CONTINENT of NORTH AMERICA + +TO THE +FROZEN and PACIFIC OCEANS +IN 1789 and 1793 + +WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE RISE +AND STATE OF THE FUR TRADE + +By + +ALEXANDER MACKENZIE + + +WITH MAP + + +IN TWO VOLUMES + +VOL. II. + + +NEW YORK +A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY +1903 + + + + +Registered at the +Library of Congress, August, 1902 +A. S. BARNES & COMPANY + + + + +Table of Contents. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Removed from the tent to the house. Build habitations + for the people. The hardships they suffer. Violent + hurricane. Singular circumstances attending + it. The commencement of the new year. An + Indian cured of a dangerous wound. State of + the weather. Curious customs among the Indians, + on the death of a relation. Account of a + quarrel. An Indian's reasoning on it. Murder + of one of the Indians. The cause of it. Some + account of the Rocky Mountain Indians. Curious + circumstance respecting a woman in labour, etc. A + dispute between two Indians, which arose from + gaming. An account of one of their games. Indian + superstition. Mildness of the season. The Indians + prepare snow shoes. Singular customs. Further + account of their manners. The slavish state of the + women. Appearance of spring. Dispatch canoes + with the trade to Fort Chepewyan. Make preparations + for the voyage of discovery. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Proceed on the voyage of discovery. Beautiful + scenery. The canoe too heavily laden. The + country in a state of combustion. Meet with a + hunting party. State of the river, etc. Meet + with Indians. See the tracks of bears, and one of + their dens. Sentiment of an Indian. Junction of + the Bear River. Appearance of the country. State + of the river. Observe a fall of timber. Abundance + of animals. See some bears. Come in sight of the + rocky mountains. The canoe receives an injury and + is repaired. Navigation dangerous. Rapids and + falls. Succession of difficulties and dangers. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Continuation of difficulties and dangers. Discontents + among the people. State of the river and + its banks. Volcanic chasms in the earth. Dispatch + various persons to discover ways across the + mountain. Obstacles present themselves on all + sides. Preparations made to attempt the mountain. + Account of the ascent with the canoe and baggage. + The trees that are found there. Arrive at the + river. Extraordinary circumstances of it. Curious + hollows in the rocks. Prepare the canoe. Renew + our progress up the river. The state of it. Leave + some tokens of amity for the natives. The weather + very cold. Lost a book of my observations for + several days. Continue to proceed up the river. + Send a letter down the current in a rum-keg. + Came to the forks, and proceed up the Eastern + branch. Circumstances of it. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Continue our voyage. Heavy fog. The water + rises. Succession of courses. Progressive account + of this branch. Leave the canoe to proceed, + and ascend a hill to reconnoitre. Climb a tree to + extend my view of the country. Return to the + River. The canoe not arrived. Go in search of + it. Extreme heat, musquitoes, etc. Increasing anxiety, + respecting the canoe. It at length appears. Violent + storm. Circumstances of our progress. Forced + to haul the canoe up the stream by the branches + of trees. Succession of courses. Wild parsnips + along the river. Expect to meet with natives. Courses + continued. Fall in with some natives. Our + intercourse with them. Account of their dress, arms, + utensils, and manners, etc. New discouragements + and difficulties present themselves. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Continue the voyage. State of the river. Succession + of courses. Sentiment of the guide. Conical + mountain. Continuation of courses. Leave the main + branch. Enter another. Description of it. Saw + beaver. Enter a lake. Arrive at the upper source + of the Unjigah, or Peace River. Land, and cross + to a second lake. Local circumstances. Proceed + to a third lake. Enter a river. Encounter + various difficulties. In danger of being lost. The + circumstances of that situation described. Alarm + and dissatisfaction among the people. They + are at length composed. The canoe repaired. Roads + cut through woods. Pass morasses. The guide + deserts. After a succession of difficulties, dangers, + and toilsome marches, we arrive at the great river. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Rainy night. Proceed on the great river. Circumstances + of it. Account of courses. Come to rapids. Observe + several smokes. See a flight of white ducks. Pass + over a carrying-place with the canoe, etc. The + difficulties of that passage. Abundance + of wild onions. Re-embark on the river. See some + of the natives. They desert their camp and fly into + the woods. Courses continued. Kill a red deer, + etc. Circumstances of the river. Arrive at an Indian + habitation. Description of it. Account of a curious + machine to catch fish. Land to procure bark for the + purpose of constructing a new canoe. Conceal a + quantity of pemmican for provision on our + return. Succession of courses. Meet with some + of the natives. Our intercourse with them. Their + information respecting the river, and the country. + Description of those people. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Renew our voyage, accompanied by two of the natives. + Account of courses. State of the river. Arrive at a + subterranean house. See several natives. Brief + description of them. Account of our conference with + them. Saw other natives. Description of them. Their + conduct, etc. The account which they gave of the + country. The narrative of a female prisoner. The + perplexities of my situation. Specimen of the + language of two tribes. Change the plan of my + journey. Return up the river. Succession of dangers + and difficulties. Land on an island to build + another canoe. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Make preparations to build a canoe. Engage in that + important work. It proceeds with great expedition. + The guide who had deserted arrives with another + Indian. He communicates agreeable intelligence. They + take an opportunity to quit the island. Complete + the canoe. Leave the island, which was now named the + Canoe Island. Obliged to put the people on short + allowance. Account of the navigation. Difficult + ascent of a rapid. Fresh perplexities. Continue our + voyage up the river. Meet the guide and some of his + friends. Conceal some pemmican and other + articles. Make preparations for proceeding over + land. Endeavour to secure the canoe till our + return. Proceed on our journey. Various circumstances + of it. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Continue our journey. Embark on a river. Come to a + weir. Dexterity of the natives in passing it. Arrive + at a village. Alarm occasioned among the natives. The + subsequent favourable reception, accompanied with a + banquet of ceremony. Circumstances of it. Description + of a village, its houses, and places of + devotion. Account of the customs, mode of living, and + superstition of the inhabitants. Description of the + chief's canoe. Leave the place, and proceed on + our voyage. + + +CHAPTER X. + +Renew our voyage. Circumstances of the river. + Land at the house of a chief. Entertained by + him. Carried down the river with great rapidity + to another house. Received with kindness. Occupations + of the inhabitants on its banks. Leave the canoe + at a fall. Pass over land to another village. + Some account of it. Obtain a view of an arm of + the sea. Lose our dog. Procure another canoe. + Arrive at the arm of the sea. Circumstances of + it. One of our guides returns home. + Coast along a bay. Some description of it. Meet + with Indians. Our communication with them. + Their suspicious conduct towards us. Pass onwards. + Determine the latitude and longitude. + Return to the river. Dangerous encounter with + the Indians. Proceed on our journey. + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Return up the river. Slow progress of the canoe, + from the strength of the current. The hostile + party of the natives precedes us. Impetuous conduct + of my people. Continue our very tedious + voyage. Come to some houses; received with + great kindness. Arrive at the principal, or Salmon + Village. Our present reception very different from + that we experienced on our former visit. + Continue our journey. Circumstances of it. + Find our dog. Arrive at the Upper, or Friendly + Village. Meet with a very kind reception. Some + further account of the manners and customs of + its inhabitants. Brief vocabulary of their language. + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Leave the Friendly Village. Attentions of the natives + at our departure. Stop to divide our provisions. + Begin to ascend the mountains. Circumstances of the + ascent. Journey continued. Arrive at the place from + whence we set out by land. Meet with Indians there. + Find the canoe, and all the other articles in a state + of perfect security and preservation. Means employed + to compel the restoration of articles which were + afterwards stolen. Proceed on our homeward bound + voyage. Some account of the natives on the river. + The canoe is run on a rock, etc. Circumstances + of the voyage. Enter the Peace River. Statement of + courses. Continue our route. Circumstances of it. + Proceed onwards in a small canoe, with an Indian, + to the lower fort, leaving the rest of the people + to follow me. Arrive at Fort Chepewyan. The voyage + concluded. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +DECEMBER 23, 1792. + +I this day removed from the tent into the house which had been erected +for me, and set all the men to begin the buildings intended for their +own habitation. Materials sufficient to erect a range of five houses +for them, of about seventeen by twelve feet, were already collected. It +would be considered by the inhabitants of a milder climate, as a great +evil, to be exposed to the weather at this rigorous season of the year, +but these people are inured to it, and it is necessary to describe in +some measure the hardships which they undergo without a murmur, in order +to convey a general notion of them. + +The men who were new with me, left this place in the beginning of last +May, and went to the Rainy Lake in canoes, laden with packs of fur, +which, from the immense length of the voyage, and other concurring +circumstances, is a most severe trial of patience and perseverance: +there they do not remain a sufficient time for ordinary repose, when +they take a load of goods in exchange, and proceed on their return, in a +great measure, day and night. They had been arrived near two months, +and, all that time, had been continually engaged in very toilsome +labour, with nothing more than a common shed to protect them from the +frost and snow. Such is the life which these people lead; and is +continued with unremitting exertion, till their strength is lost in +premature old age. + +The Canadians remarked, that the weather we had on the 25th, 26th, and +27th of this month, denoted such as we might expect in the three +succeeding months. On the 29th, the wind being at North-East, and the +weather calm and cloudy, a rumbling noise was heard in the air like +distant thunder, when the sky cleared away in the South-West; from +whence there blew a perfect hurricane, which lasted till eight. Soon +after it commenced, the atmosphere became so warm that it dissolved all +the snow on the ground; even the ice was covered with water, and had the +same appearance as when it is breaking up in the spring. From eight to +nine the weather became calm, but immediately after a wind arose from +the North-East with equal violence, with clouds, rain, and hail, which +continued throughout the night till the evening of the next day, when it +turned to snow. One of the people who wintered at Fort Dauphin in the +year 1780, when the small pox first appeared there, informed me, that +the weather there was of a similar description. + + +_January 1, 1793._--On the first day of January, my people, in +conformity to the usual custom, awoke me at the break of day with the +discharge of fire-arms, with which they congratulated the appearance of +the new year. In return, they were treated with plenty of spirits, and +when there is any flour, cakes are always added to their regales, which +was the case, on the present occasion. + +On my arrival here last fall, I found that one of the young Indians had +lost the use of his right hand by the bursting of a gun, and that his +thumb had been maimed in such a manner as to hang only by a small strip +of flesh. Indeed, when he was brought to me, his wound was in such an +offensive state, and emitted such a putrid smell, that it required all +the resolution I possessed to examine it. His friends had done every +thing in their power to relieve him; but as it consisted only in singing +about him, and blowing upon his hand, the wound, as may be well +imagined, had got into the deplorable state in which I found it. I was +rather alarmed at the difficulty of the case, but as the young man's +life was in a state of hazard, I was determined to risk my surgical +reputation, and accordingly took him under my care. I immediately +formed a poultice of bark, stripped from the roots of the spruce-fir, +which I applied to the wound, having first washed it with the juice of +the bark: this proved a very painful dressing: in a few days, however, +the wound was clean, and the proud flesh around it destroyed. I wished +very much in this state of the business to have separated the thumb from +the hand, which I well knew must be effected before the cure could be +performed; but he would not consent to that operation, till, by the +application of vitriol, the flesh by which the thumb was suspended, was +shrivelled almost to a thread. When I had succeeded in this object, I +perceived that the wound was closing rather faster than I desired. The +salve I applied on the occasion was made of the Canadian balsam, wax and +tallow dropped from a burning candle into water. In short, I was so +successful, that about Christmas my patient engaged in a hunting party, +and brought me the tongue of an elk: nor was he finally ungrateful. +When he left me I received the warmest acknowledgments, both from +himself and his relations with whom he departed, for my care of him. I +certainly did not spare my time or attention on the occasion, as I +regularly dressed his wound three times a day, during the course of a +month. + +On the 5th in the morning the weather was calm, clear, and very cold; +the wind blew from the South-West, and in the course of the afternoon it +began to thaw. I had already observed at Athabasca, that this wind +never failed to bring us clear mild weather, whereas, when it blew from +the opposite quarter, it produced snow. Here it is much more +perceptible, for if it blows hard South-West for four hours, a thaw is +the consequence, and if the wind is at North-East it brings sleet and +snow. To this cause it may be attributed, that there is now so little +snow in this part of the world. These warm winds come off the Pacific +Ocean, which cannot, in a direct line, be very far from us; the distance +being so short, that though they pass over mountains covered with snow, +there is not time for them to cool. + +There being several of the natives at the house at this time, one of +them, who had received an account of the death of his father, proceeded +in silence to his lodge, and began to fire off his gun. As it was +night, and such a noise being so uncommon at such an hour, especially +when it was so often repeated, I sent my interpreter to inquire into the +cause of it, when he was informed by the man himself, that this was a +common custom with them on the death of a near relation, and was a +warning to their friends not to approach, or intrude upon them, as they +were, in consequence of their loss, become careless of life. The chief, +to whom the deceased person was also related, appeared with his war-cap +on his head, which is only worn on these solemn occasions, or when +preparing for battle, and confirmed to me this singular custom of firing +guns, in order to express their grief for the death of relations and +friends.[1] The women alone indulge in tears on such occasions; the men +considering it as a mark of pusillanimity and a want of fortitude to +betray any personal tokens of sensibility or sorrow. + +The Indians informed me, that they had been to hunt at a large lake, +called by the Knisteneaux, the Slave Lake, which derived its name from +that of its original inhabitants, who were called Slaves. They +represented it as a large body of water, and that it lies about one +hundred and twenty miles due East from this place. It is well known to +the Knisteneaux, who are among the inhabitants of the plains on the +banks of the Saskatchiwine river; for formerly, when they used to come +to make war in this country, they came in their canoes to that lake, and +left them there; from thence, there is a beaten path all the way to the +Fork, or East branch of this river, which was their war-road. + + +_January 10._--Among the people who were now here, there were two +Rocky Mountain Indians, who declared, that the people to whom we had +given that denomination, are by no means entitled to it, and that their +country has ever been in the vicinity of our present situation. They +said, in support of their assertion, that these people were entirely +ignorant of those parts which are adjacent to the mountain, as well as +the navigation of the river; that the Beaver Indians had greatly +encroached upon them, and would soon force them to retire to the foot of +these mountains. They represented themselves as the only real natives +of that country then with me; and added, that the country, and that part +of the river that intervenes between this place and the mountains, bear +much the same appearance as that around us; that the former abounds with +animals, but that the course of the latter is interrupted, near, and in +the mountains, by successive rapids and considerable falls. These men +also informed me, that there is another great river towards the midday +sun, whose current runs in that direction, and that the distance from it +is not great across the mountains. + +The natives brought me plenty of furs. The small quantity of snow, at +this time, was particularly favourable for hunting the beaver, as from +this circumstance, those animals could, with greater facility, be traced +from their lodges to their lurking-places. + +On the 12th our hunter arrived, having left his mother-in-law, who was +lately become a widow with three small children, and in actual labour of +a fourth. Her daughter related this circumstance to the women here +without the least appearance of concern, though she represented her as +in a state of great danger, which probably might proceed from her being +abandoned in this unnatural manner. At the same time without any +apparent consciousness of her own barbarous negligence, if the poor +abandoned woman should die, she would most probably lament her with +great outcries, and, perhaps cut off one or two joints of her fingers as +tokens of her grief. The Indians, indeed, consider the state of a woman +in labour as among the most trifling occurrences of corporal pain to +which human nature is subject, and they may be, in some measure +justified in this apparent insensibility from the circumstances of that +situation among themselves. It is by no means uncommon in the hasty +removal of their camps from one position to another, for a woman to be +taken in labour, to deliver herself in her way, without any assistance +or notice from her associates in her journey, and to overtake them +before they complete the arrangements of their evening station, with her +new-born babe on her back. + +I was this morning threatened with a very unpleasant event, which, +however, I was fortunately able to control. Two young Indians being +engaged in one of their games, a dispute ensued, which rose to such a +height, that they drew their knives, and if I had not happened to have +appeared, they would I doubt not, have employed them to very bloody +purposes. So violent was their rage, that after I had turned them both +out of the house, and severely reprimanded them, they stood in the fort +for at least half an hour, looking at each other with a most vindictive +aspect, and in sullen silence. + +The game which produced this state of bitter enmity, is called that of +the Platter, from a principal article of it. The Indians play at it in +the following manner. + +The instruments of it consist of a platter, or dish, made of wood or +bark, and six round or square but flat pieces of metal, wood, or stone, +whose sides or surfaces are of different colours. These are put into +the dish, and after being for some time shaken together, are thrown into +the air, and received again into the dish with considerable dexterity; +when, by the number that are turned up of the same mark or colour, the +game is regulated. If there should be equal numbers, the throw is not +reckoned; if two or four, the platter changes hands. + +On the 13th, one of these people came to me, and presented in himself a +curious example of Indian superstition. He requested me to furnish him +with a remedy that might be applied to the joints of his legs and +thighs, of which he had, in a great measure lost the use for five +winters. This affliction he attributed to his cruelty about that time, +when having found a wolf with two whelps in an old beaver lodge, he set +fire to it and consumed them. + +The winter had been so mild, that the swans had but lately left us, and +at this advanced period there was very little snow on the ground: it +was, however, at this time a foot and a half in depth, in the environs +of the establishment below this, which is at the distance of about +seventy leagues. + +On the 28th the Indians were now employed in making their snow-shoes, as +the snow had not hitherto fallen in sufficient quantity to render them +necessary. + + +_February 2._--The weather now became very cold, and it froze so hard +in the night that my watch stopped; a circumstance that had never +happened to this watch since my residence in the country. + +There was a lodge of Indians here, who were absolutely starving with +cold and hunger. They had lately lost a near relation, and had +according to custom, thrown away every thing belonging to them, and even +exchanged the few articles of raiment which they possessed, in order, as +I presume, to get rid of every thing that may bring the deceased to +their remembrance. They also destroy every thing belonging to any +deceased person, except what they consign to the grave with the late +owner of them. We had some difficulty to make them comprehend that the +debts of a man who dies should be discharged, if he left any furs behind +him: but those who understand this principle of justice, and profess to +adhere it, never fail to prevent the appearance of any skins beyond such +as may be necessary to satisfy the debts of their dead relation. + +On the 8th I had an observation for the longitude. In the course of +this day one of my men, who had been some time with the Indians, came to +inform me that one of them had threatened to stab him; and on his +preferring a complaint to the man with whom he now lived, and to whom I +had given him in charge, he replied, that he had been very imprudent to +play and quarrel with the young Indians out of his lodge, where no one +would dare to come and quarrel with him; but that if he had lost his +life where he had been, it would have been the consequence of his own +folly. Thus, even among these children of nature, it appears that a +man's house is his castle, where the protection of hospitality is +rigidly maintained. + +The hard frost which had prevailed from the beginning of February +continued to the 16th of March, when the wind blowing from the +South-West, the weather became mild. + +On the 22d a wolf was so bold as to venture among the Indian lodges, and +was very near carrying off a child. + +I had another observation of Jupiter and his satellites for the +longitude. On the 13th some geese were seen, and these birds are always +considered as the harbingers of spring. On the first of April my +hunters shot five of them. This was a much earlier period than I ever +remember to have observed the visits of wild fowl in this part of the +world. The weather had been mild for the last fortnight, and there was +a promise of its continuance. On the 5th the snow had entirely +disappeared. + +At half past four this morning I was awakened to be informed that an +Indian had been killed. I accordingly hastened to the camp, where I +found two women employed in rolling up the dead body of a man, called +the White Partridge, in a beaver robe, which I had lent him. He had +received four mortal wounds from a dagger, two within the collar bone, +one in the left breast, and another in the small of the back, with two +cuts across his head. The murderer, who had been my hunter throughout +the winter, had fled; and it was pretended that several relations of the +deceased were gone in pursuit of him. The history of this unfortunate +event is as follows:-- + +These two men had been comrades for four years; the murderer had three +wives; and the young man who was killed, becoming enamoured of one of +them, the husband consented to yield her to him, with the reserved power +of claiming her as his property, when it should be his pleasure. + +This connection was uninterrupted for near three years, when, whimsical +as it may appear, the husband became jealous, and the public amour was +suspended. The parties, how ever, made their private assignations, +which caused the woman to be so ill treated by her husband, that the +paramour was determined to take her away by force; and this project +ended in his death. This is a very common practice among the Indians, +and generally terminates in very serious and fatal quarrels. + +In consequence of this event all the Indians went away in great apparent +hurry and confusion, and in the evening not one of them was to be seen +about the fort. + +The Beaver and Rocky Mountain Indians, who traded with us in this river, +did not exceed an hundred and fifty men, capable of bearing arms; two +thirds of whom call themselves Beaver Indians. The latter differ only +from the former, as they have, more or less, imbibed the customs and +manners of the Knisteneaux. As I have already observed, they are +passionately fond of liquor, and in the moments of their festivity will +barter any thing they have in their possession for it. + +Though the Beaver Indians made their peace with the Knisteneaux, at +Peace Point, as already mentioned, yet they did not secure a state of +amity from others of the same nation, who had driven away the natives of +the Saskatchiwine and Missinipy Rivers, and joined at the head water of +the latter, called the Beaver River: from thence they proceeded West by +the Slave Lake just described, on their war excursions, which they often +repeated, even till the Beaver Indians had procured arms, which was in +the year 1782. If it so happened that they missed them, they proceeded +Westward till they were certain of wreaking their vengeance on those of +the Rocky Mountain, who being without arms, became an easy prey to their +blind and savage fury. All the European articles they possessed, +previous to the year 1780, were obtained from the Knisteneaux and +Chepewyans, who brought them from Fort Churchill, and for which they +were made to pay an extravagant price. + +As late as the year 1786, when the first traders from Canada arrived on +the banks of this river, the natives employed bows and snares, but at +present very little use is made of the former, and the latter are no +longer known. They still entertain a great dread of their natural +enemies, but they are since become so well armed, that the others now +call them their allies. The men are in general of a comely appearance, +and fond of personal decoration. The women are of a contrary +disposition, and the slaves of the men: in common with all the Indian +tribes polygamy is allowed among them. They are very subject to +jealousy, and fatal consequences frequently result from the indulgence +of that passion. But notwithstanding the vigilance and severity which +is exercised by the husband, it seldom happens that a woman is without +her favourite, who, in the absence of the husband, exacts the same +submission, and practises the same tyranny. And so premature is the +tender passion, that it is sometimes known to invigorate so early a +period of life as the age of eleven or twelve years. The women are not +very prolific: a circumstance which may be attributed in a great +measure, to the hardships that they suffer for except a few small dogs, +they alone perform that labour which is allotted to beasts of burthen in +other countries. It is not uncommon, while the men carry nothing but a +gun, that their wives and daughters follow with such weighty burdens, +that if they lay them down they cannot replace them, and that is a +kindness which the men will not deign to perform; so that during their +journeys they are frequently obliged to lean against a tree for a small +portion of temporary relief. When they arrive at the place which their +tyrants have chosen for their encampment, they arrange the whole in a +few minutes, by forming a curve of poles, meeting at the top, and +expanding into circles of twelve or fifteen feet diameter at the bottom, +covered with dressed skins of the moose sewed together. During these +preparations, the men sit down quietly to the enjoyment of their pipes, +if they happen to have any tobacco. But notwithstanding this abject +state of slavery and submission, the women have a considerable influence +on the opinion of the men in every thing except their own domestic +situation. + +These Indians are excellent hunters, and their exercise in that capacity +is so violent as to reduce them in general to a very meagre appearance. +Their religion is of a very contracted nature, and I never witnessed any +ceremony of devotion which they had not borrowed from the Knisteneaux, +their feasts and fasts being in imitation of that people. They are more +vicious and warlike than the Chepewyans, from whence they sprang, though +they do not possess their selfishness, for while they have the means of +purchasing their necessaries, they are liberal and generous, but when +those are exhausted they become errant beggars: they are, however, +remarkable for their honesty, for in the whole tribe there were only two +women and a man who had been known to have swerved from that virtue, and +they were considered as objects of disregard and reprobation. They are +afflicted with but few diseases, and their only remedies consist in +binding the temples, procuring perspiration, singing, and blowing on the +sick person, or affected part. When death overtakes any of them, their +property, as I have before observed, is sacrificed and destroyed; nor is +there any failure of lamentation or mourning on such occasion: they who +are more nearly related to the departed person, black their faces, and +sometimes cut off their hair; they also pierce their arms with knives +and arrows. The grief of the females is carried to a still greater +excess; they not only cut their hair, and cry and howl, but they will +sometimes, with the utmost deliberation, employ some sharp instrument to +separate the nail from the finger, and then force back the flesh beyond +the first joint, which they immediately amputate. But this +extraordinary mark of affliction is only displayed on the death of a +favourite son, a husband, or a father. Many of the old women have so +often repeated this ceremony, that they have not a complete finger +remaining on either hand. The women renew their lamentations at the +graves of their departed relatives, for a long succession of years. +They appear, in common with all the Indian tribes, to be very fond of +their children, but they are as careless in their mode of swadling them +in their infant state, as they are of their own dress: the child is laid +down on aboard, of about two feet long, covered with a bed of moss, to +which it is fastened by bandages, the moss being changed as often as the +occasion requires. The chief of the nation had no less than nine wives, +and children in proportion. + +When traders first appeared among these people, the Canadians were +treated with the utmost hospitality and attention; but they have, by +their subsequent conduct, taught the natives to withdraw that respect +from them, and sometimes to treat them with indignity. They differ very +much from the Chepewyans and Knisteneaux, in the abhorrence they profess +of any carnal communication between their women and the white people. +They carry their love of gaming to excess; they will pursue it for a +succession of days and nights, and no apprehension of ruin, nor +influence of domestic affection, will restrain them from the indulgence +of it. They are a quick, lively, active people, with a keen, +penetrating, dark eye; and though they are very susceptible of anger, +are as easily appeased. The males eradicate their beards, and the +females their hair in every part, except their heads, where it is strong +and black, and without a curl. There are many old men among them, but +they are in general ignorant of the space in which they have been +inhabitants of the earth, though one of them told me that he recollected +sixty winters. + +An Indian in some measure explained his age to me, by relating that he +remembered the opposite hills and plains, now interspersed with groves +of poplars, when they were covered with moss, and without any animal +inhabitant but the rein-deer. By degrees, he said, the face of the +country changed to its present appearance, when the elk came from the +East, and was followed by the buffalo; the rein-deer then retired to the +long range of high lands that, at a considerable distance, run parallel, +with this river. + +On the 20th of April I had an observation of Jupiter and his satellites, +for the longitude, and we were now visited by our summer companions the +gnats and musquitoes. On the other side of the river, which was yet +covered with ice, the plains were delightful; the trees were budding, +and many plants in blossom. Mr. Mackay brought me a bunch of flowers of +a pink colour, and a yellow button, encircled with six leaves of a light +purple. The change in the appearance of nature was as sudden as it was +pleasing, for a few days only were passed away since the ground was +covered with snow. On the 25th the river was cleared of the ice. + +I new found that the death of the man called the White Partridge, had +deranged all the plans which I had settled with the Indians for the +spring hunting. They had assembled at some distance from the fort, and +sent an embassy to me, to demand rum to drink, that they might have an +opportunity of crying for their deceased brother. It would be +considered as an extreme degradation in an Indian to weep when sober, +but a state of intoxication sanctions all irregularities. On my +refusal, they threatened to go to war, which, from motives of interest +as well as humanity, we did our utmost to discourage; and as a second +message was brought by persons of some weight among these people, and on +whom I could depend, I thought it prudent to comply with the demand, on +an express condition, that they would continue peaceably at home. + +The month of April being now past, in the early part of which I was most +busily employed in trading with the Indians, I ordered our old canoes to +be repaired with bark, and added four new ones to them, when, with the +furs and provisions I had purchased, six canoes were loaded and +dispatched on the 8th of May, for Fort Chepewyan. I had, however, +retained six of the men, who agreed to accompany me on my projected +voyage of discovery. I also engaged my hunters, and closed the business +of the year for the company by writing my public and private dispatches. + +Having ascertained, by various observations, the latitude of this place +to be 56. 9. North, and longitude 117. 35. 15. West: on the 9th day of +May, I found, that my achrometer was one hour forty-six minutes slow to +apparent time; the mean going of it I had found to be twenty-two seconds +slow in twenty-four hours. Having settled this point, the canoe was put +into the water; her dimensions were twenty-five feet long within, +exclusive of the curves of stem and stern, twenty-six inches hold, and +four feet nine inches beam. At the same time she was so light, that two +men could carry her on a good road three or four miles without resting. +In this slender vessel, we shipped provisions, goods for presents, arms, +ammunition, and baggage, to the weight of three thousand pounds, and an +equipage of ten people; viz. Alexander Mackay, Joseph Landry, Charles +Ducette,[2] Francois Beaulieux, Baptist Bisson, Francois Courtois, and +Jaques Beauchamp, with two Indians, as hunters and interpreters. One of +them, when a boy, used to be so idle, that he obtained the reputable +name of Cancre, which he still possesses. With these persons I embarked +at seven in the evening. My winter interpreter, with another person, +whom I left here to take care of the fort, and supply the natives with +ammunition during the summer, shed tears on the reflection of those +dangers which we might encounter in our expedition, while my own people +offered up their prayers that we might return in safety from it. + + +[1] When they are drinking together, they frequently present their guns +to each other, when any of the parties have not other means of procuring +rum. On such an occasion they always discharge their pieces, as a +proof, I imagine, of their being in good order, and to determine the +quantity of liquor they may propose to get in exchange for them. + +[2]Joseph Landry and Charles Ducette were with me in my former voyage. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +MAY, 1793. + + _Thursday, 9._--We began our voyage with a course South by West +against a strong current one mile and three quarters, South-West by +South one mile, and landed before eight on an island for the night. + + +_Friday, 10._--The weather was clear and pleasant, though there was a +keenness in the air; and at a quarter past three in the morning we +continued our voyage, steering South-West three quarters of a mile, +South-West by South one mile and a quarter, South three quarters of a +mile, South-West by South one quarter of a mile, South-West by West one +mile, South-West by South three miles, South by West three quarters of a +mile, and South-West one mile. The canoe being strained from its having +been very heavily laden, became so leaky, that we were obliged to land, +unload, and gum it. As this circumstance took place about twelve, I had +an opportunity of taking an altitude, which made our latitude +55. 58. 48. + +When the canoe was repaired we continued our course, steering South-West +by West one mile and an half, when I had the misfortune to drop my +pocket-compass into the water; West half a mile, West-South-West four +miles and an half. Here, the banks are steep and hilly, and in some +parts undermined by the river. Where the earth has given way, the face +of the cliffs discovers numerous strata, consisting of reddish earth and +small stones, bitumen, and a greyish earth, below which, near the +water-edge, is a red stone. Water issues from most of the banks, and +the ground on which it spreads is covered with a thin white scurf, or +particles of a saline substance: there are several of these salt +springs. At half past six in the afternoon the young men landed, when +they killed an elk and wounded a buffalo. In this spot we formed our +encampment for the night. + +From the place which we quitted this morning, the West side of the river +displayed a succession of the most beautiful scenery I had ever beheld. +The ground rises at intervals to a considerable height, and stretching +inwards to a considerable distance: at every interval or pause in the +rise, there is a very gently-ascending space or lawn, which is alternate +with abrupt precipices to the summit of the whole, or, at least as far +as the eye could distinguish. This magnificent theatre of nature has +all the decorations which the trees and animals of the country can +afford it: groves of poplars in every shape vary the scene; and their +intervals are enlivened with vast herds of elks and buffaloes: the +former choosing the steeps and uplands, and the latter preferring the +plains. At this time the buffaloes were attended with their young ones +who were frisking about them: and it appeared that the elks would soon +exhibit the same enlivening circumstance. The whole country displayed +an exuberant verdure; the trees that bear a blossom were advancing fast +to that delightful appearance, and the velvet rind of their branches +reflecting the oblique rays of a rising or setting sun, added a splendid +gaiety to the scene, which no expressions of mine are qualified to +describe. The East side of the river consists of a range of high land +covered with the white spruce and the soft birch, while the banks abound +with the alder and the willow. The water continued to rise, and the +current being proportionately strong, we made a greater use of setting +poles than paddles. + + +_Saturday, 11._--The weather was overcast. With a strong wind a-head, +we embarked at four in the morning, and left all the fresh meat behind +us, but the portion which had been assigned to the kettle; the canoe +being already too heavily laden. Our course was West-South-West one +mile, where a small river flowed in from the East, named _Quiscatina +Sepy_, or River with the High Banks; West half a mile, South half a +mile, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, West one mile and a +quarter, South-West a quarter of a mile, South-South-West half a mile, +and West by South a mile and a half. Here I took a meridian altitude, +which gave 55. 56. 3. North latitude. We then proceeded West three +miles and a half, West-South-West, where the whole plain was on fire, +one mile, West one mile, and the wind so strong a-head, that it +occasioned the canoe to take in water, and otherwise impeded our +progress. Here we landed to take time, with the mean of three +altitudes, which made the watch slow 1. 42. 10. + +We now proceeded West-South-West one mile and a quarter, where we found +a chief of the Beaver Indians on a hunting party. I remained, however, +in my canoe, and though it was getting late, I did not choose to encamp +with these people, lest the friends of my hunters might discourage them +from proceeding on the voyage. We, therefore, continued our course, but +several Indians kept company with us, running along the bank, and +conversing with my people, who were so attentive to them, that they +drove the canoe on a stony flat, so that we were under the necessity of +landing to repair the damages, and put up for the night, though very +contrary to my wishes. My hunters obtained permission to proceed with +some of these people to their lodges, on the promise of being back by +the break of day; though I was not without some apprehension respecting +them. The chief, however, and another man, as well as several people +from the lodges, joined us, before we had completed the repair of the +canoe; and they made out a melancholy story, that they had neither +ammunition or tobacco sufficient for their necessary supply during the +summer. I accordingly referred him to the Fort, where plenty of those +articles were left in the care of my interpreter, by whom they would be +abundantly furnished, if they were active and industrious in pursuing +their occupations. I did not fail, on this occasion, to magnify the +advantages of the present expedition; observing, at the same time, that +its success would depend on the fidelity and conduct of the young men +who were retained by me to hunt. The chief also proposed to borrow my +canoe, in order to transport himself and family across the river; +several plausible reasons, it is true, suggested themselves for +resisting his proposition; but when I stated to him, that, as the canoe +was intended for a voyage of such consequence, no woman could be +permitted to be embarked in it, he acquiesced in the refusal. It was +near twelve at night when he took his leave, after I had gratified him +with a present of tobacco. + + +_Sunday, 12._--Some of the Indians passed the night with us, and I was +informed by them, that according to our mode of proceeding, we should, +in ten days, get as far as the rocky mountains. The young men now +returned, to my great satisfaction, and with the appearance of +contentment; though I was not pleased when they dressed themselves in +the clothes which I had given them before we left the Fort, as it +betrayed some latent design. + +At four in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, steering West three +miles, including one of our course yesterday, North-West by North four +miles, West two miles and a half, North-West by West a mile and a half, +North by East two miles, North-West by West one mile, and +North-North-West three miles. After a continuation of our course to the +North for a mile and a half, we landed for the night on an island where +several of the Indians visited us, but unattended by their women, who +remained in their camp, which was at some distance from us. + +The land on both sides of the river, during the two last days, is very +much elevated, but particularly in the latter part of it, and, on the +Western side, presents in different places, white, steep, and lofty +cliffs. Our view being confined by these circumstances, we did not see +so many animals as on the 10th. Between these lofty boundaries, the +river becomes narrow and in a great measure free from islands; for we +had passed only four: the stream, indeed, was not more than from two +hundred to three hundred yards broad; whereas before these cliffs +pressed upon it, its breadth was twice that extent and besprinkled with +islands. We killed an elk, and fired several shots at animals from the +canoe. + +The greater part of this band being Rocky Mountain Indians, I +endeavoured to obtain some intelligence of our intended route, but they +all pleaded ignorance, and uniformly declared, that they knew nothing of +the country beyond the first mountain: at the same time they were of +opinion, that, from the strength of the current and the rapids we should +not get there by water; though they did not hesitate to express their +surprise at the expedition we had already made. + +I inquired, with some anxiety, after an old man who had already given +me an account of the country beyond the limits of his tribe, and was +very much disappointed at being informed, that he had not been seen +for upwards of a moon. This man had been at war on another large +river beyond the Rocky Mountain, and described to me a fork of it +between the mountains; the Southern branch of which he directed me +to take; from thence, he said, there was a carrying-place of about +a day's march for a young man to get to the river. To prove the truth +of his relation, he consented, that his son, who had been with him in +those parts, should accompany me; and he accordingly sent him to the +fort some days before my departure; but the preceding night he deserted +with another young man, whose application to attend me as a hunter, +being refused, he persuaded the other to leave me. I now thought it +right to repeat to them what I had said to the chief of the first band, +respecting the advantages which would be derived from the voyage, +that the young men might be encouraged to remain with me; as without +them I should not have attempted to proceed. + + +_Monday, 13._--The first object that presented itself to me this +morning was the young man whom I have already mentioned, as having +seduced away my intended guide. At any other time or place, I should +have chastised him for his past conduct, but in my situation it was +necessary to pass over his offence, lest he should endeavour to exercise +the same influence over those who were so essential to my service. Of +the deserted he gave no satisfactory account, but continued to express +his wish to attend me in his place, for which he did not possess any +necessary qualifications. + +The weather was cloudy, with an appearance of rain; and the Indians +pressed me with great earnestness to pass the day with them, and hoped +to prolong my stay among them by assuring me that the winter yet +lingered in the rocky mountains; but my object was to lose no time, and +having given the chief some tobacco for a small quantity of meat, we +embarked at four, when my young men could not conceal their chagrin at +parting with their friends, for so long a period as the voyage +threatened to occupy. When I had assured them that in three moons we +should return to them, we proceeded on our course West-North-West half a +mile, West-South-West one mile and a half, West by North three miles, +North-West by West two miles and a half, South-West by West half a mile, +South-South-West a mile and a half, and South-West a mile and a half. +Here I had a meridian altitude, which gave 56. 17. 44. North latitude. + +The last course continued a mile and a half, South by West, three +quarters of a mile, South-West by South three miles and a half, and +West-South-West two miles and a half. Here the land lowered on both +sides, with an increase of wood, and displayed great numbers of animals. +The river also widened from three to five hundred yards, and was full of +islands and flats. Having continued our course three miles, we made for +the shore at seven, to pass the night. + +At the place from whence we proceeded this morning, a river falls in +from the North; there are also several islands, and many rivulets on +either side, which are too small to deserve particular notice. We +perceived along the river, tracks of large bears, some of which were +nine inches wide, and of a proportionate length. We saw one of their +dens, or winter-quarters, called _watee_, in an island, which was ten +feet deep, five feet high, and six feet wide; but we had not yet seen +one of those animals. The Indians entertain great apprehension of this +kind of bear, which is called the grisly bear, and they never venture to +attack it but in a party of at least three or four. Our hunters, though +they had been much higher than this part of our voyage, by land, knew +nothing of the river. One of them mentioned, that having been engaged +in a war expedition, his party on their return made their canoes at some +distance below us. The wind was North throughout the day, and at times +blew with considerable violence. + +The apprehensions which I had felt respecting the young men were not +altogether groundless, for the eldest of them told me that his uncle had +last night addressed him in the following manner:--"My nephew, your +departure makes my heart painful. The white people may be said to rob +us of you. They are about to conduct you into the midst of our enemies, +and you may nevermore return to us. Were you not with the Chief,[1] I +know not what I should do, but he requires your attendance, and you must +follow him." + + +_Tuesday, 14._--The weather was clear, and the air sharp, when we +embarked at half past four. Our course was South by West one mile and a +half, South-West by South half a mile, South-West. + +We here found it necessary to unload, and gum the canoe, in which +operation we lost an hour; when we proceeded on the last course one mile +and a half. I now took a meridian altitude, which gave 56. 1. 19. North +latitude, and continued to proceed West-South-West two miles and a half. +Here the Bear River which is of a large appearance, falls in from the +East; West three miles and an half, South-South-West one mile and an +half, and South-West four miles and an half, when we encamped upon an +island about seven in the evening. + +During the early part of the day, the current was not so strong as we +had generally found it, but towards the evening it became very rapid, +and was broken by numerous islands. We were gratified as usual, with +the sight of animals. The land on the West side is very irregular, but +has the appearance of being a good beaver country; indeed we saw some of +those animals in the river. Wood is in great plenty, and several +rivulets added their streams to the main river. A goose was the only +article of provision which we procured to-day. Smoke was seen, but at a +great distance before us. + + +_Wednesday, 15._--The rain prevented us from continuing our route till +past six in the morning, when our course was South-West by West three +quarters of a mile; at which time we passed a river on the left, West by +South two miles and a half. The bank was steep, and the current strong. +The last course continued one mile and a half, West-South-West two +miles, where a river flowed in from the right, West by South one mile +and a half, West-North-West one mile, and West by North two miles. Here +the land takes the form of an high ridge, and cut our course, which was +West for three miles, at right angles. We now completed the voyage of +this day. + +In the preceding night the water rose upwards of two inches, and had +risen in this proportion since our departure. The wind, which was +West-South-West, blew very hard throughout the day, and with the +strength of the current, greatly impeded our progress. The river, in +this part of it, is full of islands; and the land, on the South or left +side, is thick with wood. Several rivulets also fall in from that +quarter. At the entrance of the last river which we passed, there was a +quantity of wood, which had been cut down by axes, and some by the +beaver. This fall, however, was not made, in the opinion of my people, +by any of the Indians with whom we were acquainted. + +The land to the right is of a very irregular elevation and appearance, +composed in some places of clay, and rocky cliffs, and others exhibiting +stratas of red, green, and yellow colours. Some parts, indeed, offer a +beautiful scenery, in some degree similar to that which we passed on the +second day of our voyage, and equally enlivened with the elk and the +buffalo, who were feeding in great numbers, and unmolested by the +hunter. In an island which we passed, there was a large quantity of +white birch, whose bark might be employed in the construction of canoes. + + +_Thursday, 16._--The weather being clear, we re-embarked at four in +the morning, and proceeded West by North three miles. Here the land +again appeared as if it run across our course, and a considerable river +discharged itself by various streams. According to the Rocky Mountain +Indian, it is called the Sinew River. This spot would be an excellent +situation for a fort or factory, as there is plenty of wood, and every +reason to believe that the country abounds in beaver. As for the other +animals, they are in evident abundance, as in every direction the elk +and the buffalo are seen in possession of the hills and the plains. Our +course continued West-North-West three miles and a half, North-West one +mile and a half, South-West by West two miles; (the latitude was by +observation 56. 16. 54.) North, West by North half a mile, +West-North-West three quarters of a mile; a small river appearing on the +right, North-West one mile and a half, West by North half a mile, West +by South one mile and a half, West one mile; and at seven we formed our +encampment. + +Mr. Mackay, and one of the young men, killed two elks, and mortally +wounded a buffalo, but we only took a part of the flesh of the former. +The land above the spot where we encamped, spreads into an extensive +plain, and stretches on to a very high ridge, which, in some parts, +presents a face of rock, but is principally covered with verdure, and +varied with the poplar and white birch tree. The country is so crowded +with animals as to have the appearance, in some places, of a stall-yard, +from the state of the ground, and the quantity of dung which is +scattered over it. The soil is black and light. We this day saw two +grisly and hideous bears. + + +_Friday, 17._--It froze during the night, and the air was sharp in the +morning, when we continued our course West-North-West three miles and a +half, South-West by South two miles and a half, South-West by West one +mile and a half, West three quarters of a mile, West-South-West one mile +and a quarter, and South-West by South one mile and a half. At two in +the afternoon the rocky mountains appeared in sight, with their summits +covered with snow, bearing South-West by South: they formed a very +agreeable object to every person in the canoe, as we attained the view +of them much sooner than we expected. A small river was seen on our +right, and we continued our progress South-West by South six miles, when +we landed at seven, which was our usual hour of encampment. + +Mr. Mackay, who was walking along the side of the river, discharged his +piece at a buffalo, when it burst near the muzzle, but without any +mischievous consequences. On the high grounds, which were on the +opposite side of the river, we saw a buffalo tearing up and down with +great fury, but could not discern the cause of his impetuous motions; my +hunters conjectured that he had been wounded with on arrow by some of +the natives. We ascended several rapids in the course of the day, and +saw one bear. + + + +_Saturday, 18._--It again froze very hard during the night, and at +four in the morning we continued our voyage, but we had not proceeded +two hundred yards, before an accident happened to the canoe, which did +not, however, employ more than three quarters of an hour to complete the +repair. We then steered South by West one mile and three quarters, +South-West by South three miles, South-West by West one mile and a +quarter, West by South three quarters of a mile, South-West half a mile, +West by South one mile, South by West one mile and a half, +South-South-West, where there is a small run of water from the right, +three miles and a half, when the canoe struck on the stump of a tree, +and unfortunately where the banks were so steep that there was no place +to unload, except a small spot, on which we contrived to dispose the +lading in the bow, which lightened the canoe so as to raise the broken +part of it above the surface of the water; by which contrivance we +reached a convenient situation. It required, however, two hours to +complete the repair, when the weather became dark and cloudy, with +thunder, lightning, and rain; we, however, continued the last course +half a mile, and at six in the evening we were compelled by the rain to +land for the night. + +About noon we had landed on an island where there were eight lodges of +last year. The natives had prepared bark here for five canoes, and there +is a road along the hills where they had passed. Branches were out and +broken along it; and they had also stripped off the bark of the trees, to +get the interior rind, which forms part of their food. + +The current was very strong through the whole of the day, and the coming +up along some of the banks was rendered very dangerous, from the +continual falling of large stones, from the upper parts of them. This +place appears to be a particular pass for animals across the river, as +there are paths leading to it on both sides, every ten yards. + +In the course of the day we saw a ground hog, and two cormorants. The +earth also appeared in several places to have been turned up by the +bears, in search of roots. + + +_Sunday, 19._--It rained very hard in the early part of the night, but +the weather became clear towards the morning, when we embarked at our +usual hour. As the current threatened to be very strong, Mr. Mackay, +the two hunters, and myself, went on shore, in order to lighten the +canoe, and ascended the hills, which are covered with cypress, and but +little encumbered with underwood. We found a beaten path, and before we +had walked a mile, fell in with a herd of buffaloes, with their young +ones: but I would not suffer the Indians to fire on them, from an +apprehension that the report of their fowling pieces would alarm the +natives that might be in the neighbourhood; for we were at this time so +near the mountains, as to justify our expectation of seeing some of +them. We, however, sent our dog after the herd, and a calf was soon +secured by him. While the young men were skinning the animal, we heard +two reports of fire arms from the canoe, which we answered, as it was a +signal for my return; we then heard another, and immediately hastened +down the hill, with our veal, through a very close wood. There we met +one of the men, who informed us that the canoe was at a small distance +below, at the foot of a very strong rapid, and that as several +waterfalls appeared up the river, we should be obliged to unload and +carry. I accordingly hastened to the canoe, and was greatly displeased +that so much time had been lost, as I had given previous directions that +the river should be followed as long as it was practicable. The last +Indians whom we saw had informed us that at the first mountain there was +a considerable succession of rapids, cascades, and falls, which they +never attempted to ascend; and where they always passed over land the +length of a day's march. My men imagined that the carrying place was at +a small distance below us, as a path appeared to ascend a hill, where +there were several lodges, of the last year's construction. The account +which had been given me of the rapids, was perfectly correct: though by +crossing to the other side, I must acknowledge with some risk, in such a +heavy laden canoe, the river appeared to me to be practicable, as far as +we could see: the traverse, therefore, was attempted, and proved +successful. We now towed the canoe along an island, and proceeded +without any considerable difficulty, till we reached the extremity of +it, when the line could be no longer employed; and in endeavouring to +clear the point of the island, the canoe was driven with such violence +on a stony shore, as to receive considerable injury. We now employed +every exertion in our power to repair the breach that had been made, as +well as to dry such articles of our loading as more immediately required +it: we then transported the whole across the point, when we reloaded, +and continued our course about three quarters of a mile. We could now +proceed no further on this side of the water, and the traverse was +rendered extremely dangerous, not only from the strength of the current, +but by the cascades just below us, which, if we had got among them, +would have involved us and the canoe in one common destruction. We had +no other alternative than to return by the same course we came, or to +hazard the traverse, the river on this side being bounded by a range of +steep, over-hanging rocks, beneath which the current was driven on with +resistless impetuosity from the cascades. Here are several islands of +solid rock, covered with a small portion of verdure, which have been +worn away by the constant force of the current, and occasionally, as I +presume, of ice, at the water's edge, so as to be reduced in that part +to one fourth the extent of the upper surface; presenting, as it were, +so many large tables, each of which was supported by a pedestal of a +more circumscribed projection. They are very elevated for such a +situation, and afford an asylum for geese, which were at this time +breeding on them. By crossing from one to the other of these islands, +we came at length to the main traverse, on which we ventured, and were +successful in our passage. Mr. Mackay, and the Indians, who observed +our manoeuvres from the top of a rock, were in continual alarm for our +safety, with which their own, indeed, may be said to have been nearly +connected: however, the dangers that we encountered were very much +augmented by the heavy loading of the canoe. + +When we had effected our passage, the current on the West side was +almost equally violent with that from whence we had just escaped, but +the craggy bank being somewhat lower, we were enabled, with a line of +sixty fathoms, to tow the canoe, till we came to the foot of the most +rapid cascade we had hitherto seen. Here we unloaded, and carried every +thing over a rocky point of an hundred and twenty paces. When the canoe +was reloaded, I, with those of my people who were not immediately +employed, ascended the bank, which was there, and indeed, as far as we +could see, composed of clay, stone, and a yellow gravel. My present +situation was so elevated, that the men, who were coming up a strong +point, could not hear me, though I called to them with the utmost +strength of my voice, to lighten the canoe of part of its lading. And +here I could not but reflect, with infinite anxiety, on the hazard of my +enterprize; one false step of those who were attached to the line, or +the breaking of the line itself, would have at once consigned the canoe, +and every thing it contained, to instant destruction: it, however, +ascended the rapid in perfect security, but new dangers immediately +presented themselves, for stones, both small and great, were continually +rolling from the bank, so as to render the situation of those who were +dragging the canoe beneath it extremely perilous; besides, they were at +every step in danger, from the steepness of the ground, of falling into +the water: nor was my solicitude diminished by my being necessarily +removed at times from the sight of them. + +In our passage through the woods, we came to an inclosure, which had +been formed by the natives for the purpose of setting snares for the +elk, and of which we could not discover the extent. After we had +travelled for some hours through the forest, which consisted of the +spruce, birch, and the largest poplars I had ever seen, we sunk down +upon the river where the bank is low, and near the foot of a mountain; +between which, and a high ridge, the river flows in a channel of about +one hundred yards broad; though, at a small distance below, it rushes on +between perpendicular rocks, where it is not much more than half that +breadth. Here I remained, in great anxiety, expecting the arrival of +the canoe, and after some time I sent Mr. Mackay with one of the Indians +down the river in search of it, and with the other I went up to it to +examine what we might expect in that quarter. In about a mile and a +half I came to a part where the river washes the feet of lofty +precipices, and presented, in the form of rapids and cascades, a +succession of difficulties to our navigation. As the canoe did not come +in sight, we returned, and from the place where I had separated with +Mr. Mackay, we saw the men carrying it over a small rocky point. We met +them at the entrance of the narrow channel already mentioned; their +difficulties had been great indeed, and the canoe had been broken, but +they had persevered with success, and having passed the carrying-place, +we proceeded with the line as far as I had already been, when we crossed +over and encamped on the opposite beach; but there was no wood on this +side of the water, as the adjacent country had been entirely over-run by +fire. We saw several elks feeding on the edge of the opposite +precipice, which was upwards of three hundred feet high. + +Our course to-day was about South-South-West two miles and a half, +South-West half a mile, South-West by South one mile and a half, South +by West half a mile, South-West half a mile, and West one mile and a +half. There was a shower of hail, and some rain from flying clouds. I +now dispatched a man with an Indian to visit the rapids above, when the +latter soon left him to pursue a beaver, which was seen in the shallow +water on the inside of a stony island; and though Mr. Mackay, and the +other Indian joined him, the animal at length escaped from their +pursuit. Several others were seen in the course of the day, which I by +no means expected, as the banks are almost every where so much elevated +above the channel of the river. Just as the obscurity of the night drew +on, the man returned with an account that it would be impracticable to +pass several points, as well as the super-impending promontories. + + +_Monday, 20._--The weather was clear with a sharp air, and we renewed +our voyage at quarter past four, on a course South-West by West three +quarters of a mile. We now, with infinite difficulty passed along the +foot of a rock, which, fortunately, was not an hard stone, so that we +were enabled to cut steps in it for the distance of twenty feet; from +which, at the hazard of my life, I leaped on a small rock below, where I +received those who followed me on my shoulders. In this manner four of +us passed and dragged up the canoe, in which attempt we broke her. Very +luckily, a dry tree had fallen from the rock above us, without which we +could not have made a fire, as no wood was to be procured within a mile +of the place. When the canoe was repaired, we continued towing it along +the rocks to the next point, when we embarked, as we could not at +present make any further use of the line, but got along the rocks of a +round high island of stone, till we came to a small sandy bay. As we +had already damaged the canoe, and had every reason to think that she +soon would risk much greater injury, it became necessary for us to +supply ourselves with bark, as our provision of that material article +was almost exhausted two men were accordingly sent to procure it, who +soon returned with the necessary store. + +Mr. Mackay, and the Indians who had been on shore, since we broke the +canoe, were prevented from coming to us by the rugged and impassable +state of the ground. We, therefore, again resumed our course with the +assistance of poles, with which we pushed onwards till we came beneath a +precipice, where we could not find any bottom; so that we were again +obliged to have recourse to the line, the management of which was +rendered not only difficult but dangerous, as the men employed in towing +were under the necessity of passing on the outside of trees that grew on +the edge of the precipice. We, however, surmounted this difficulty, as +we had done many others, and the people who had been walking over land +now joined us. They also had met with their obstacles in passing the +mountain. + +It now became necessary for us to make a traverse, where the water was +so rapid, that some of the people stripped themselves to their shirts +that they might be the better prepared for swimming, in case any +accident happened to the canoe, which they seriously apprehended; but we +succeeded in our attempt without any other inconvenience, except that of +taking in water. We now came to a cascade, when it was thought +necessary to take out part of the lading. At noon we stopped to take an +altitude, opposite to a small river that flowed in from the left: while +I was thus engaged, the men went on shore to fasten the canoe, but as +the current was not very strong, they had been negligent in performing +this office; it proved, however, sufficiently powerful to sheer her off, +and if it had not happened that one of the men, from absolute fatigue +had remained and held the end of the line, we should have been deprived +of every means of prosecuting our voyage, as well as of present +subsistence. But notwithstanding the state of my mind on such an +alarming circumstance, and an intervening cloud that interrupted me, the +altitude which I took has been since proved to be tolerably correct, and +gave 56. North latitude. Our last course was South-South-West two miles +and a quarter. + +We now continued our toilsome and perilous progress with the line West +by North, and as we proceeded the rapidity of the current increased, so +that in the distance of two miles we were obliged to unload four times, +and carry every thing but the canoe: indeed, in many places, it was with +the utmost difficulty that we could prevent her from being dashed to +pieces against the rocks by the violence of the eddies. At five we had +proceeded to where the river was one continued rapid. + +Here we again took every thing out of the canoe, in order to tow her up +with the line, though the rocks were so shelving as greatly to increase +the toil and hazard of that operation. At length, however, the +agitation of the water was so great, that a wave striking on the bow of +the canoe broke the line, and filled us with inexpressible dismay, as it +appeared impossible that the vessel could escape from being dashed to +pieces, and those who were in her from perishing. Another wave, +however, more propitious than the former, drove her out of the tumbling +water, so that the men were enabled to bring her ashore, and though she +had been carried over rocks by these swells which left them naked a +moment after, the canoe had received no material injury. The men were, +however, in such a state from their late alarm, that it would not only +have been unavailing but imprudent to have proposed any further progress +at present, particularly as the river above us, as far as we could see, +was one white sheet of foaming water. + +[1] These people, as well as all the natives on this side of Lake +Winipic, give the mercantile agent that distinguished appellation. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +MAY, 1793. + +That the discouragements, difficulties, and dangers, which had hitherto +attended the progress of our enterprise, should have excited a wish in +several of those who were engaged in it to discontinue the pursuit, +might be naturally expected; and indeed it began to be muttered on all +sides that there was no alternative but to return. + +Instead of paying any attention to these murmurs, I desired those who +had uttered them to exert themselves in gaining an ascent of the hill, +and encamp there for the night. In the mean time I set off with one of +the Indians, and though I continued my examination of the river almost +as long as there was any light to assist me, I could see no end of the +rapids and cascades: I was, therefore, perfectly satisfied, that it +would be impracticable to proceed any further by water. We returned +from this reconnoitring excursion very much fatigued, with our shoes +worn out and wounded feet; when I found that, by felling trees on the +declivity of the first hill, my people had contrived to ascend it. + +From the place where I had taken the altitude at noon, to the place +where we made our landing, the river is not more than fifty yards wide, +and flows between stupendous rocks, from whence huge fragments sometimes +tumble down, and falling from such an height, dash into small stones, +with sharp points, and form the beach between the rocky projections. +Along the face of some of these precipices, there appears a stratum of a +bitumenous substance which resembles coal; though while some of the +pieces of it appeared to be excellent fuel, others resisted, for a +considerable time, the action of fire, and did not emit the least flame. +The whole of this day's course would have been altogether impracticable, +if the water had been higher, which must be the case at certain seasons. +We saw also several encampments of the Knisteneaux along the river, +which must have been formed by them on their war excursions: a decided +proof of the savage, blood-thirsty disposition of that people; as +nothing less than such a spirit could impel them to encounter the +difficulties of this almost inaccessible country, whose natives are +equally unoffending and defenceless. + +Mr. Mackay informed me, that in passing over the mountains, he observed +several chasms in the earth that emitted heat and smoke, which diffused +a strong sulphureous stench. I should certainly have visited this +phenomenon, if I had been sufficiently qualified as a naturalist, to +have offered scientific conjectures or observations thereon. + + +_Tuesday, 21._--It rained in the morning, and did not cease till about +eight, and as the men had been very fatigued and disheartened, I +suffered them to continue their rest till that hour. Such was the state +of the river, as I have already observed, that no alternative was left +us; nor did any means of proceeding present themselves to us, but the +passage of the mountain over which we were to carry the canoe as well as +the baggage. As this was a very alarming enterprize, I dispatched +Mr. Mackay with three men and the two Indians to proceed in a strait +course from the top of the mountain, and to keep the line of the river +till they should find it navigable. If it should be their opinion, that +there was no practicable passage in that direction, two of them were +instructed to return in order to make their report; while the others +were to go in search of the Indian carrying-place. While they were +engaged in this excursion, the people who remained with me were employed +in gumming the canoe, and making handles for the axes. At noon I got an +altitude, which made our latitude 56. 0. 8. At three o'clock had time, +when my watch was slow 1. 31. 32. apparent time. + +At sun-set, Mr. Mackay returned with one of the men, and in about two +hours was followed by the others. They had penetrated thick woods, +ascended hills and sunk into vallies, till they got beyond the rapid, +which, according to their calculation, was a distance of three leagues. +The two parties returned by different routes, but they both agreed, that +with all its difficulties, and they were of a very alarming nature, the +outward course was that which must be preferred. Unpromising, however, +as the account of their expedition appeared, it did not sink them into a +state of discouragement; and a kettle of wild rice, sweetened with +sugar, which had been prepared for their return, with their usual regale +of rum, soon renewed that courage which disdained all obstacles that +threatened our progress: and they went to rest, with a full +determination to surmount them on the morrow. I sat up, in the hope of +getting an observation of Jupiter and his first satellite, but the +cloudy weather prevented my obtaining it. + + +_Wednesday, 22._--At break of day we entered on the extraordinary +journey which was to occupy the remaining part of it. The men began, +without delay, to cut a road up the mountain, and as the trees were but +of small growth, I ordered them to fell those which they found +convenient, in such a manner, that they might fall parallel with the +road, but, at the same time not separate them entirely from the stumps, +so that they might form a kind of railing on either side. The baggage +was now brought from the water side to our encampment. This was, +likewise, from the steep shelving of the rocks, a very perilous +undertaking, as one false step of any of the people employed in it, +would have been instantly followed by falling headlong into the water. +When this important object was attained, the whole of the party +proceeded with no small degree of apprehension, to fetch the canoe, +which, in a short time, was also brought to the encampment; and, as soon +as we had recovered from our fatigue, we advanced with it up the +mountain, having the line doubled and fastened successively as we went +on to the stumps; while a man at the end of it, hauled it around a tree, +holding it on and shifting it as we proceeded; so that we may be said, +with strict truth, to have warped the canoe up the mountain; indeed by a +general and most laborious exertion, we got every thing to the summit by +two in the afternoon. At noon, the latitude was 56. 0. 47. North. At +five, I sent the men to cut the road onwards, which they effected for +about a mile, when they returned: + +The weather was cloudy at intervals, with showers and thunder. At about +ten, I observed an emersion of Jupiter's second satellite; time by the +achrometer 8. 32. 20. by which I found the longitude to be 120. 29. 80 +West from Greenwich. + + +_Thursday 23._--The weather was clear at four this morning, when the +men began to carry. I joined Mr. Mackay and the two Indians in the +labour of cutting a road. The ground continued rising gently till noon, +when it began to decline; but though on such an elevated situation, we +could see but little, as mountains of a still higher elevation, and +covered with snow, were seen far above us in every direction. In the +afternoon the ground became very uneven; hills and deep defiles +alternately presented themselves to us. Our progress, however, exceeded +my expectation, and it was not till four in the afternoon that the +carriers overtook us. At five, in a state of fatigue that may be more +readily conceived than expressed, we encamped near a rivulet or spring +that issued from beneath a large mass of ice and snow. + +Our toilsome journey of this day I compute at about three miles; along +the first of which the land is covered with plenty of wood, consisting +of large trees, encumbered with little underwood, through which it was +by no means difficult to open a road, by following a well-beaten elk +path: for the two succeeding miles we found the country overspread with +the trunks of trees, laid low by fire some years ago; among which large +copses had sprung up of a close growth, and intermixed with briars, so +as to render the passage through them painful and tedious. The soil in +the woods is light and of a dusky colour; that in the burned country is +a mixture of sand and clay with small stones. The trees are spruce, +red-pine, cypress, poplar, white birch, willow, alder, arrow-wood, +red-wood, liard, service-tree, bois-picant, &c. I never saw any of the +last kind before. It rises to about nine feet in height, grows in +joints without branches, and is tufted at the extremity. The stem is of +an equal size from the bottom to the top, and does not exceed an inch in +diameter; it is covered with small prickles, which caught our trowsers, +and working through them, sometimes found their way to the flesh. The +shrubs are, the gooseberry, the currant, and several kinds of briars. + + +_Friday, 24._--We continued our very laborious journey, which led us +down some steep hills, and through a wood of tall pines. After much +toil and trouble in bearing the canoe through the difficult passages +which we encountered, at four in the afternoon we arrived at the river, +some hundred yards above the rapids or falls, with all our baggage. I +compute the distance of this day's progress to be about four miles; +indeed I should have measured the whole of the way, if I had not been +obliged to engage personally in the labour of making the road. But +after all, the Indian carrying-way, whatever may be its length, and I +think it cannot exceed ten miles, will always be found more safe and +expeditious than the passage which our toil and perseverance formed and +surmounted. + +Those of my people who visited this place on the 21st, were of opinion +that the water had risen very much since that time. About two hundred +yards below us, the stream rushed with an astonishing but silent +velocity, between perpendicular rocks, which are not more than +thirty-five yards asunder: when the water is high, it runs over those +rocks, in a channel three times that breadth, where it is bounded by far +more elevated precipices. In the former are deep round holes, some of +which are full of water, while others are empty, in whose bottom are +small round stones, as smooth as marble. Some of these natural +cylinders would contain two hundred gallons. At a small distance below +the first of these rocks, the channel widens in a kind of zig-zag +progression; and it was really awful to behold with what infinite force +the water drives against the rocks on one side, and with what impetuous +strength it is repelled to the other: it then falls back, as it were, +into a more strait but rugged passage, over which it is tossed in high, +foaming, half-formed billows, as far as the eye could follow it. + +The young men informed me that this was the place where their relations +had told me that I should meet with a fall equal to that of Niagara: to +exculpate them, however, from their apparent misinformation, they +declared that their friends were not accustomed to utter falsehoods, and +that the fall had probably been destroyed by the force of the water. It +is, however, very evident that those people had not been here, or did +not adhere to the truth. By the number of trees which appeared to have +been felled with axes, we discovered that the Knisteneaux, or some +tribes who are known to employ that instrument, had passed this way. We +passed through a snare enclosure, but saw no animals, though the country +was very much intersected by their tracks. + + +_Saturday, 25._---It rained throughout the night, and till twelve this +day; while the business of preparing great and small poles, and putting +the canoe in order, &c. caused us to remain here till five in the +afternoon. I now attached a knife, with a steel, flint, beads, and +other trifling articles to a pole, which I erected, and left as a token +of amity to the natives. When I was making this arrangement, one of my +attendants, whom I have already described under the title of the Cancre, +added to my assortment, a small round piece of green wood, chewed at one +end in the form of a brush, which the Indians used to pick the marrow +out of bones. This he informed me was an emblem of a country abounding +in animals. The water had risen during our stay here one foot and a +half perpendicular height. + +We now embarked, and our course was North-West one mile and three +quarters. There were mountains on all sides of us, which were covered +with snow; one in particular, on the South side of the river, rose to a +great height. We continued to proceed West three quarters of a mile, +North-West one mile, and West-South-West a quarter of a mile, when we +encamped for the night. The Cancre killed a small elk. + + +_Sunday, 26._--The weather was clear and sharp, and between three and +four in the morning we renewed our voyage, our first course being West +by South three miles and a half, when the men complained of the cold in +their fingers, as they were obliged to push on the canoe with the poles. +Here a small river flowed in from the North. We now continued to steer +West-South-West a quarter of a mile; West-North-West a mile and a half, +and West two miles, when we found ourselves on a parallel with a chain +of mountains on both sides of the river, running South and North. The +river, both yesterday and the early part of to-day, was from four to +eight hundred yards wide, and full of islands, but was at this time +diminished to about two hundred yards broad, and free from islands, with +a smooth but strong current. Our next course was South-West two miles, +when we encountered a rapid, and saw an encampment of the Knisteneaux. +We now proceeded North-West by West one mile, among islands, South-West +by West three quarters of a mile, South-South-East one mile, veered to +South-West through islands three miles and a half, and South by East +half a mile. Here a river poured in on the left, which was the most +considerable that we had seen since we had passed the mountain. At +seven in the evening we landed and encamped. + +Though the sun had shone upon us throughout the day, the air was so cold +that the men, though actively employed, could not resist it without the +aid of their blanket coats. This circumstance might, in some degree, be +expected from the surrounding mountains, which were covered with ice and +snow; but as they are not so high as to produce the extreme cold which +we suffered, it must be more particularly attributed to the high +situation of the country itself, rather than to the local elevation of +the mountains, the greatest height of which does not exceed fifteen +hundred feet; though in general they do not rise to half that altitude. + +But as I had not been able to take an exact measurement, I do not +presume upon the accuracy of my conjecture. Towards the bottom of these +heights, which were clear of snow, the trees were putting forth their +leaves, while those in their middle region still retained all the +characteristics of winter, and on the upper parts there was little or no +wood. + + +_Monday, 27._[1]--The weather was clear, and we continued our voyage +at the usual hour, when we successively found several rapids and points +to impede our progress. At noon our latitude was 56. 5. 54. North. The +Indians killed a stag; and one of the men who went to fetch it was very +much endangered by the rolling down of a large stone from the heights +above him. + + +_Tuesday, 28._--The day was very cloudy. The mountains on both sides +of the river seemed to have sunk, in their elevation, during the voyage +of yesterday. To-day they resumed their former altitude, and run so +close on either side of the channel, that all view was excluded of every +thing but themselves. This part of the current was not broken by +islands; but in the afternoon we approached some cascades, which obliged +us to carry our canoe and its lading for several hundred yards. Here we +observed an encampment of the natives, though some time had elapsed +since it had been inhabited. The greater part of the day was divided +between heavy showers and small rain; and we took our station on the +shore about six in the evening, about three miles above the last rapid. + + +_Wednesday, 29._--The rain was so violent throughout the whole of this +day, that we did not venture to proceed. As we had almost expended the +contents of a rum-keg, and this being a day which allowed of no active +employment, I amused myself with the experiment of enclosing a letter in +it, and dispatching it down the stream to take its fate. I accordingly +introduced a written account of all our hardships, &c. carefully +enclosed in bark, into the small barrel by the bung-hole, which being +carefully secured, I consigned this epistolatory cargo to the mercy of +the current. + + +_Thursday, 30._--We were alarmed this morning at break of day, by the +continual barking of our dog, who never ceased from running backwards +and forwards in the rear of our situation: when, however, the day +advanced, we discovered the cause of our alarm to proceed from a wolf, +who was parading a ridge a few yards behind us, and had been most +probably allured by the scent of our small portion of fresh meat. The +weather was cloudy, but it did not prevent us from renewing our progress +at a very early hour. A considerable river appeared from the left, and +we continued our course till seven in the evening, when we landed at +night where there was an Indian encampment. + + +_Friday, 31._--The morning was clear and cold, and the current very +powerful. On crossing the mouth of a river that flowed in from the +right of us, we were very much endangered; indeed all the rivers which I +have lately seen, appear to overflow their natural limits, as it may be +supposed, from the melting of the mountain snow. The water is almost +white, the bed of the river being of limestone. The mountains are one +solid mass of the same material, but without the least shade of trees, +or decoration of foliage. At nine the men were so cold that we landed, +in order to kindle a fire, which was considered as a very uncommon +circumstance at this season; a small quantity of rum, however, served as +an adequate substitute; and the current being so smooth as to admit of +the use of paddles, I encouraged them to proceed without any further +delay. In a short time an extensive view opened upon us, displaying a +beautiful sheet of water, that was heightened by the calmness of the +weather, and a splendid sun. Here the mountains which were covered with +wood, opened on either side, so that we entertained the hope of soon +leaving them behind us. When we had got to the termination of this +prospect, the river was barred with rocks, forming cascades and small +islands. To proceed onwards, we were under the necessity of clearing a +narrow passage of the drift wood, on the left shore. Here the view +convinced us that our late hopes were without foundation, as there +appeared a ridge or chain of mountains, running South and North as far +as the eye could reach. + +On advancing two or three miles, we arrived at the fork, one branch +running about West-North-West, and the other South-South-East. If I had +been governed by my own judgment, I should have taken the former, as it +appeared to me to be the most likely to bring us nearest to the part +where I wished to fall on the Pacific Ocean, but the old man, whom I +have already mentioned as having been frequently on war expeditions in +this country, had warned me not, on any account, to follow it, as it was +soon lost in various branches among the mountains, and that there was no +great river that ran in any direction near it; but by following the +latter, he said, we should arrive at a carrying-place to another large +river, that did not exceed a day's march, where the inhabitants build +houses, and live upon islands. There was so much apparent truth in the +old man's narrative, that I determined to be governed by it; for I did +not entertain the least doubt, if I could get into the other river, that +I should reach the ocean. + +I accordingly ordered my steersman to proceed at once to the East +branch, which appeared to be more rapid than the other, though it did +not possess an equal breadth. These circumstances disposed my men and +Indians, the latter in particular being very tired of the voyage, to +express their wishes that I should take the Western branch, especially +when they perceived the difficulty of stemming the current, in the +direction on which I had determined. Indeed the rush of water was so +powerful, that we were the greatest part of the afternoon in getting two +or three miles--a very tardy and mortifying progress, and which, with +the voyage, was openly execrated by many of those who were engaged in +it: and the inexpressible toil these people had endured, as well as the +dangers they had encountered, required some degree of consideration; I +therefore employed those arguments which were the best calculated to +calm their immediate discontents, as well as to encourage their future +hopes, though, at the same time, I delivered my sentiments in such a +manner as to convince them that I was determined to proceed. + +On the 1st of June we embarked at sun-rise, and towards noon the current +began to slacken; we then put to shore, in order to gum the canoe, when +a meridian altitude gave me 55. 42. 16. North latitude. We then +continued our course, and towards the evening the current began to +recover its former strength. Mr. Mackay and the Indians had already +disembarked, to walk and lighten the boat. At sun-set we encamped on a +point, being the first dry land which had been found on this side the +river, that was fit for our purpose, since our people went on shore. In +the morning we passed a large rapid river, that flowed in from the +right. + +In no part of the North-West did I see so much beaver-work, within an +equal distance, as in the course of this day. In some places they had +cut down several acres of large poplars; and we saw also a great number +of these active and sagacious animals. The time which these wonderful +creatures allot for their labours, whether in erecting their curious +habitations or providing food, is the whole of the interval between the +setting and the rising sun. + +Towards the dusky part of the evening we heard several discharges from +the fowling pieces of our people, which we answered, to inform them of +our situation; and some time after it was dark, they arrived in an equal +state of fatigue and alarm; they were also obliged to swim across a +channel in order to get to us, as we were situated on an island, though +we were ignorant of the circumstance, till they came to inform us. One +of the Indians was positive that he heard the discharge of fire-arms +above our encampment; and on comparing the number of our discharges with +theirs, there appeared to be some foundation for his alarm, as we +imagined that we had heard two reports more than they acknowledged; and +in their turn, they declared that they had heard twice the number of +those which we knew had proceeded from us. The Indians were therefore +certain, that the Knisteneaux must be in our vicinity, on a war +expedition, and consequently, if they were numerous, we should have had +no reason to expect the least mercy from them in this distant country. +Though I did not believe that circumstance, or that any of the natives +could be in possession of fire-arms, I thought it right, at all events, +we should be prepared. Our fusees were, therefore, primed and loaded, +and having extinguished our fire, each of us took his station at the +foot of a tree, where we passed an uneasy and restless night. + +The succeeding morning being clear and pleasant, we proceeded at an +early hour against a rapid current, intersected by islands. About eight +we passed two large trees, whose roots having been undermined by the +current, had recently fallen into the river; and, in my opinion, the +crash of their fall had occasioned the noise which caused our late +alarm. In this manner the water ravages the islands in these rivers, +and by driving down great quantities of wood, forms the foundations of +others. The men were so oppressed with fatigue, that it was necessary +they should encamp at six in the afternoon. We, therefore, landed on a +sandy island, which is a very uncommon object, as the greater part of +the islands consist of a bottom of round stones and gravel, covered from +three to ten feet with mud and old drift-wood. Beaver-work was as +frequently seen as on the preceding day. + +On the 3d of June we renewed our voyage with the rising sun. At noon I +obtained a meridian altitude, which gave 55. 22. 3. North latitude. I +also took time, and the watch was slow 1. 30. 14. apparent time. +According to my calculation, this place is about twenty-five miles +South-East of the fork.[2] + +[1] From this day to the 4th of June the courses of my voyage are +omitted, as I lost the book that contained them. I was in the habit of +sometimes indulging myself with a short doze in the canoe, and I imagine +that the branches of the trees brushed my book from me, when I was in +such a situation, which renders the account of these few days less +distinct than usual. + +[2] I shall now proceed with my usual regularity, which, as I have +already mentioned, has been, for some days, suspended, from the loss of +my book of observation. + + + + +CHAPTER. IV. + + +JUNE 4, 1793. + +We embarked this morning at four in a very heavy fog. +The water had been continually rising, and, in many places, overflowed +its banks. The current also was so strong that our progress was very +tedious, and required the most laborious exertions. Our course was this +day, South-South-East one mile, South-South-West half a mile, South-East +three quarters of a mile, North-East by East three quarters of a mile, +South-East half a mile, South-East by South one mile, South-South-East +one mile and three quarters, South-East by South half a mile, East by +South a quarter of a mile, South-East three quarters of a mile, +North-East by East half a mile, East by North a quarter of a mile, +South-East half a mile, South-East by South a quarter of a mile, +South-East by East half a mile, North-East by East half a mile, +North-North-East three quarters of a mile to South by East one mile and +a half. We could not find a place fit for an encampment, till nine at +night, when we landed on a bank of gravel, of which little more appeared +above water than the spot we occupied. + + +_Wednesday, 5._--This morning we found our canoe and baggage in the +water, which had continued rising during the night. We then gummed the +canoe, as we arrived at too late an hour to perform that operation on +the preceding evening. This necessary business being completed, we +traversed to the North shore, where I disembarked with Mr. Mackay, and +the hunters, in order to ascend an adjacent mountain, with the hope of +obtaining a view of the interior part of the country. I directed my +people to proceed with all possible diligence, and that, if they met +with any accident, or found my return necessary, they should fire two +guns. They also understood, that when they should hear the same signal +from me, they were to answer, and wait for me, if I were behind them. + +When we had ascended to the summit of the hill, we found that it +extended onwards in an even, level country; so that, encumbered as we +were, with the thick wood, no distant view could be obtained; I +therefore climbed a very lofty tree, from whose top I discerned on the +right a ridge of mountains covered with snow, bearing about North-West; +from thence another ridge of high land, whereon no snow was visible, +stretched towards the South: between which and the snowy hills on the +East side, there appeared to be an opening, which we determined to be +the course of the river. + +Having obtained all the satisfaction that the nature of the place would +admit, we proceeded forward to overtake the canoe, and after a warm walk +came down upon the river, when we discharged our pieces twice, but +received no answering signal. I was of opinion, that the canoe was +before us, while the Indians entertained an opposite notion. I, +however, crossed another point of land, and came again to the waterside +about ten. Here we had a long view of the river, which circumstance +excited in my mind, some doubts of my former sentiments. We repeated +our signals, but without any return; and as every moment now increased +my anxiety, I left Mr. Mackay and one of the Indians at this spot to +make a large fire, and sent branches adrift down the current as notices +of our situation, if the canoe was behind us; and proceeded with the +other Indian across a very long point, where the river makes a +considerable bend, in order that I might be satisfied if the canoe was +a-head. Having been accustomed, for the last fortnight, to very cold +weather, I found the heat of this day almost insupportable, as our way +lay over a dry sand, which was relieved by no shade, but such as a few +scattered cypresses could afford us. About twelve, we arrived once more +at the river, and the discharge of our pieces was as unsuccessful as it +had hitherto been. The water rushed before us with uncommon velocity; +and we also tried the experiment of sending fresh branches down it. To +add to the disagreeableness of our situation, the gnats and mosquitoes +appeared in swarms to torment us. When we returned to our companions, +we found that they had not been contented with remaining in the position +where I had left them, but had been three or four miles down the river, +but were come back to their station, without having made any discovery +of the people on the water. + +Various very unpleasing conjectures at once perplexed and distressed us: +the Indians, who are inclined to magnify evils of any and every kind, +had at once consigned the canoe and every one on board it to the bottom; +and were already settling a plan to return upon a raft, as well as +calculating the number of nights that would be required to reach their +home. As for myself, it will be easily believed, that my mind was in a +state of extreme agitation, and the imprudence of my conduct in leaving +the people, in such a situation of danger and toilsome exertion added a +very painful mortification to the severe apprehensions I already +suffered: it was an act of indiscretion which might have put an end to +the voyage that I had so much at heart, and compelled me at length to +submit to the scheme which my hunters had already formed for our return. + +At half past six in the evening, Mr. Mackay and the Cancre set off to +proceed down the river, as far as they could before the night came on, +and to continue their journey in the morning to the place where we had +encamped the preceding evening. I also proposed to make my excursion +upwards; and, if we both failed of success in meeting the canoe, it was +agreed that we should return to the place where we now separated. + +In this situation we had wherewithal to drink in plenty, but with solid +food we were totally unprovided. We had not seen even a partridge +throughout the day, and the tracks of rein-deer that we had discovered, +were of an old date. We were, however, preparing to make a bed of the +branches of trees, where we should have had no other canopy than that +afforded us by the heavens, when we heard a shot, and soon after +another, which was the notice agreed upon, if Mr. Mackay and the Indian +should see the canoe: that fortunate circumstance was also confirmed by +a return of the signal from the people. I was, however, so fatigued +from the heat and exercise of the day, as well as incommoded from +drinking so much cold water, that I did not wish to remove till the +following morning; but the Indian made such bitter complaints of the +cold and hunger he suffered, that I complied with his solicitations to +depart; and it was almost dark when we reached the canoe, barefooted, +and drenched with rain. But these inconveniences affected me very +little, when I saw myself once more surrounded with my people. They +informed me, that the canoe had been broken; and that they had this day +experienced much greater toil and hardships than on any former occasion. +I thought it prudent to affect a belief of every representation that +they made, and even to comfort each of them with a consolatory dram: +for, however difficult the passage might have been, it was too short to +have occupied the whole day, if they had not relaxed in their exertions. +The rain was accompanied with thunder and lightning. + +It appeared from the various encampments which we had seen, and from +several paddles we had found, that the natives frequent this part of the +country at the latter end of the summer and the fall. The course to-day +was nearly East-South-East two miles and a half, South by West one mile, +South-South-East one mile and a half, East two miles, and South-East by +South one mile. + + +_Thursday, 6._--At half past four this morning we continued our +voyage, our courses being South-East by South one mile, East by South +three quarters of a mile, South-East by East two miles. The whole of +this distance we proceeded by hauling the canoe from branch to branch. +The current was so strong, that it was impossible to stem it with the +paddles; the depth was too great to receive any assistance from the +poles, and the bank of the river was so closely lined with willows and +other trees, that it was impossible to employ the line. As it was past +twelve before we could find a place that would allow of our landing, I +could not get a meridian altitude. We occupied the rest of the day in +repairing the canoe, drying our cloaths, and making paddles and poles to +replace those which had been broken or lost. + + +_Friday, 7._--The morning was clear and calm; and since we had been at +this station the water had risen two inches; so that the current became +still stronger; and its velocity had already been so great as to justify +our despair in getting up it, if we had not been so long accustomed to +surmount. I last night observed an emersion of Jupiter's first +satellite, but inadvertently went to bed, without committing the exact +time to writing: if my memory is correct, it was 8. 18. 10. by the +timepiece. The canoe, which had been little better than a wreck, being +now repaired, we proceeded East two miles and a quarter, +South-South-East half a mile, South-East a quarter of a mile, when we +landed to take an altitude for time. We continued our route at +South-East by East three quarters of a mile, and landed again to +determine the latitude, which is 55. 2. 51. To this I add, 2. 45. +Southing, which will make the place of taking altitude for time +55. 5. 36. with which I find that my time-piece was slow 1. 32. 23. +apparent time; and made the longitude obtained 122. 35. 50. West of +Greenwich. + +From this place we proceeded East by South four miles and a half, +East-South-East one mile and a half, in which space there falls in a +small river from the East; East half a mile, South-East a mile and a +half, East a quarter of a mile, and encamped at seven o'clock. +Mr. Mackay and the hunters walked the greatest part of the day, and in +the course of their excursion killed a porcupine.[1] Here we found the +bed of a very large bear quite fresh. During the day several Indian +encampments were seen, which were of a late erection. The current had +also lost some of its impetuosity during the greater part of the day. + + +_Saturday, 8._--It rained and thundered through the night, and at four +in the morning we again encountered the current. Our course was East a +quarter of a mile, round to South by East along a very high white sandy +bank on the East shore, three quarters of a mile, South-South-East a +quarter of a mile, South-South-West a quarter of a mile, +South-South-East one mile and a quarter, South-East two miles, with a +slack current; South-East by East two miles and a quarter, East a +quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by +South four miles and a half, South-East one mile and a half, +South-South-West half a mile, East-North-East half a mile, +East-South-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by South one mile, +South-East by East half a mile, East by South three quarters of a mile, +when the mountains were in full view in this direction, and Eastward. +For the three last days we could only see them at short intervals and +long distances; but till then, they were continually in sight on either +side, from our entrance into the fork. Those to the left were at no +great distance from us. + +For the last two days we had been anxiously looking out for the +carrying-place, but could not discover it, and our only hope was in such +information as we should be able to procure from the natives. All that +remained for us to do, was to push forwards till the river should be no +longer navigable: it had now, indeed, overflowed its banks, so that it +was eight at night before we could discover a place to encamp. Having +found plenty of wild parsnips, we gathered the tops, and boiled them +with pemmican for our supper. + + +_Sunday, 9._--The rain of this morning terminated in a heavy mist at +half past five, when we embarked and steered South-East one mile and a +half, when it veered North-North-East half a mile, South-East three +quarters of a mile, East by South three quarters of a mile, +East-South-East a quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a +mile, South-East by East one mile, North-East by East half a mile, +South-East by East half a mile, South-East by South three quarters of a +mile, South-East three quarters of a mile, East by South half a mile, +South-East by East half a mile, East-North-East three quarters of a +mile, when it veered to South-South-East half a mile, then back to East +(when a blue mountain, clear of snow, appeared a-head) one mile and a +half; North-East by East half a mile, East by North one mile, when it +veered to South-East half a mile, then on to North-West three quarters +of a mile, and back to North-East by East half a mile, South by West a +quarter of a mile, North-East by East to North-North-East half a mile, +South-South-East a quarter of a mile, and East by North half a mile; +here we perceived a smell of fire; and in a short time heard people in +the woods, as if in a state of great confusion, which was occasioned, as +we afterwards understood, by their discovery of us. At the same time +this unexpected circumstance produced some little discomposure among +ourselves, as our arms were not in a state of preparation, and we were +as yet unable to ascertain the number of the party. I considered, that +if there were but few, it would be needless to pursue them, as it would +not be probable that we should overtake them in these thick woods; and +if they were numerous, it would be an act of great imprudence to make +the attempt, at least during their present alarm. I therefore ordered +my people to strike off to the opposite side, that we might see if any +of them had sufficient courage to remain; but, before we were half over +the river, which in this part is not more than a hundred yards wide, two +men appeared on a rising ground over against us, brandishing their +spears, displaying their bows and arrows, and accompanying their hostile +gestures with loud vociferations. My interpreter did not hesitate to +assure them, that they might dispel their apprehensions, as we were +white people, who meditated no injury, but were, on the contrary, +desirous of demonstrating every mark of kindness and friendship. They +did not, however, seem disposed to confide in our declarations, and +actually threatened, if we came over before they were more fully +satisfied of our peaceable intentions, that they would discharge their +arrows at us. This was a decided kind of conduct which I did not +expect; at the same time I readily complied with their proposition, and +after some time had passed in hearing and answering their questions, +they consented to our landing, though not without betraying very evident +symptoms of fear and distrust. They, however, laid aside their weapons, +and when I stepped forward and took each of them by the hand, one of +them, but with a very tremulous action, drew his knife from his sleeve, +and presented it to me as a mark of his submission to my will and +pleasure. On our first hearing the noise of these people in the woods, +we displayed our flag, which was now shewn to them as a token of +friendship. They examined us, and every thing about us, with a minute +and suspicious attention. They had heard, indeed, of white men, but +this was the first time that they had ever seen a human being of a +complexion different from their own. The party had been here but a few +hours; nor had they yet erected their sheds; and, except the two men now +with us, they had all fled, leaving their little property behind them. +To those which had given us such a proof of their confidence, we paid +the most conciliating attentions in our power. One of them I sent to +recall his people, and the other, for very obvious reasons, we kept with +us. In the mean time the canoe was unloaded, the necessary baggage +carried up the hill, and the tents pitched. + +Here I determined to remain till the Indians became so familiarized to +us, as to give all the intelligence which we imagined might be obtained +from them. In fact, it had been my intention to land where I might most +probably discover the carrying-place, which was our more immediate +object, and undertake marches of two or three days, in different +directions, in search of another river. If unsuccessful in this +attempt, it was my purpose to continue my progress up the present river, +as far as it was navigable, and if we did not meet with natives to +instruct us in our further progress, I had determined to return to the +fork, and take the other branch, with the hope of better fortune. + +It was about three in the afternoon when we landed, and at five the +whole party of Indians were assembled. It consisted only of three men, +three women, and seven or eight boys and girls. With their scratched +legs, bleeding feet, and dishevelled hair, as in the hurry of their +flight they had left their shoes and leggins behind them, they displayed +a most wretched appearance: they were consoled, however, with beads, and +other trifles, which seemed to please them; they had pemmican also given +them to eat, which was not unwelcome, and in our opinion, at least, +superior to their own provision, which consisted entirely of dried fish. + +When I thought that they were sufficiently composed, I sent for the men +to my tent, to gain such information respecting the country as I +concluded it was in their power to afford me. But my expectations were +by no means satisfied: they said that they were not acquainted with any +river to the Westward, but that there was one from whence they were just +arrived, over a carrying-place of eleven days march, which they +represented as being a branch only of the river before us. Their +iron-work they obtained from the people who inhabit the bank of that +river, and an adjacent lake, in exchange for beaver skins, and dressed +moose skins. They represented the latter as travelling, during a moon, +to get to the country of other tribes, who live in houses, with whom +they traffic for the same commodities; and that these also extend their +journies in the same manner to the sea coast, or, to use their +expression, the Stinking Lake, where they trade with people like us, +that come there in vessels as big as islands. They added, that the +people to the Westward, as they have been told, are very numerous. +Those who inhabit the other branch they stated as consisting of about +forty families, while they themselves did not amount to more than a +fourth of that number; and were almost continually compelled to remain +in their strong holds, where they sometimes perished with cold and +hunger, to secure themselves from their enemies, who never failed to +attack them whenever an opportunity presented itself. + +This account of the country, from a people who I had every reason to +suppose were well acquainted with every part of it, threatened to +disconcert the project on which my heart was set, and in which my whole +mind was occupied. It occurred to me, however, that from fear, or other +motives, they might be tardy in their communication; I therefore assured +them that, if they would direct me to the river which I described to +them, I would come in large vessels, like those that their neighbours +had described, to the mouth of it, and bring them arms and ammunition in +exchange for the produce of their country; so that they might be able to +defend themselves against their enemies, and no longer remain in that +abject, distressed, and fugitive state in which they then lived. I +added also, that in the mean time, if they would, on my return accompany +me below the mountains, to a country which was very abundant in animals, +I would furnish them, and their companions, with every thing they might +want; and make peace between them and the Beaver Indians. But all these +promises did not appear to advance the object of my inquiries, and they +still persisted in their ignorance of any such river as I had mentioned, +that discharged itself into the sea. + +In this state of perplexity and disappointment, various projects +presented themselves to my mind, which were no sooner formed than they +were discovered to be impracticable, and were consequently abandoned. +At one time I thought of leaving the canoe, and every thing it +contained, to go over land, and pursue that chain of connexion by which +these people obtain their iron-work; but a very brief course of +reflection convinced me that it would be impossible for us to carry +provisions for our support through any considerable part of such a +journey, as well as presents, to secure us a kind reception among the +natives, and ammunition for the service of the hunters, and to defend +ourselves against any act of hostility. At another time my solicitude +for the success of the expedition incited a wish to remain with the +natives, and go to the sea by the way they had described; but the +accomplishment of such a journey, even if no accident should interpose, +would have required a portion of time which it was not in my power to +bestow. In my present state of information, to proceed further up the +river was considered as a fruitless waste of toilsome exertion; and to +return unsuccessful, after all our labour, sufferings, and dangers, was +an idea too painful to indulge. Besides, I could not yet abandon the +hope that the Indians might not yet be sufficiently composed and +confident, to disclose their real knowledge of the country freely and +fully to me. Nor was I altogether without my doubts respecting the +fidelity of my interpreter, who being very much tired of the voyage, +might be induced to withhold those communications which would induce me +to continue it. I therefore continued my attentions to the natives, +regaled them with such provisions as I had, indulged their children with +a taste of sugar, and determined to suspend my conversation with them +till the following morning. On my expressing a desire to partake of +their fish, they brought me a few dried trout, well cured, that had been +taken in the river which they lately left. One of the men also brought +me five beaver skins, as a present. + + +_Monday, 10._--The solicitude that possessed my mind interrupted my +repose; when the dawn appeared I had already quitted my bed, and was +waiting with impatience for another conference with the natives. The +sun, however, had risen before they left their leafy bowers, whither +they had retired with their children, having most hospitably resigned +their beds, and the partners of them, to the solicitations of my young +men. + +I now repeated my inquiries, but my perplexity was not removed by any +favourable variation in their answers. About nine, however, one of +them, still remaining at my fire, in conversation with the interpreters, +I understood enough of his language to know that he mentioned something +about a great river, at the same time pointing significantly up that +which was before us. On my inquiring of the interpreter respecting that +expression, I was informed that he knew of a large river, that runs +towards the mid-day sun, a branch of which flowed near the source of +that which we were now navigating; and that there were only three small +lakes, and as many carrying-places, leading to a small river, which +discharges itself into the great river, but that the latter did not +empty itself into the sea. The inhabitants, he said, built houses, +lived on islands, and were a numerous and warlike people. I desired him +to describe the road to the other river, by delineating it with a piece +of coal, on a strip of bark, which he accomplished to my satisfaction. +The opinion that the river did not discharge itself into the sea, I very +confidently imputed to his ignorance of the country. + +My hopes were now renewed, and an object presented itself which awakened +my utmost impatience. To facilitate its attainment, one of the Indians +was induced, by presents, to accompany me as a guide to the first +inhabitants, which we might expect to meet on the small lakes in our +way. I accordingly resolved to depart with all expedition, and while my +people were making every necessary preparation, I employed myself in +writing the following description of the natives around me: + +They are low in stature, not exceeding five feet six or seven inches; +and they are of that meagre appearance which might be expected in a +people whose life is one secession of difficulties, in procuring +subsistence. Their faces are round, with high cheek bones; and their +eyes, which are small, are of a dark brown colour; the cartilage of +their nose is perforated, but without any ornaments suspended from it; +their hair is of a dingy black, hanging loose and in disorder over their +shoulders, but irregularly cut in the front, so as not to obstruct the +sight; their beards are eradicated, with the exception of a few +straggling hairs, and their complexion is a swarthy yellow. + +Their dress consists of robes made of the skins of the heaver, the +ground-hog and the reindeer, dressed in the hair, and of the moose-skin +without it. All of them are ornamented with a fringe, while some of +them have tassels hanging down the seams; those of the ground-hog are +decorated on the fur side with the tails of the animal, which they do +not separate from them. Their garments they tie over the shoulders, and +fasten them round the middle with a belt of green skin, which is as +stiff as horn. Their leggins are long, and, if they were topped with a +waistband, might be called trowsers: they, as well as their shoes, are +made of dressed moose, elk, or rein-deer skin. The organs of generation +they leave uncovered. + +The women differ little in their dress, from the men, except in the +addition of an apron, which is fastened round the waist, and hangs down +to the knees. They are in general of a more lusty make than the other +sex, and taller in proportion, but infinitely their inferiors in +cleanliness. A black artificial stripe crosses the face beneath the +eye, from ear to ear, which I first took for scabs, from the +accumulation of dirt on it. Their hair, which is longer than that of +the men, is divided from the forehead to the crown, and drawn back in +long plaits behind the ears. They have also a few white beads, which +they get where they procure their iron: they are from a line to an inch +in length, and are worn in their ears, but are not of European +manufacture. These, with bracelets made of horn and bone, compose all +the ornaments which decorate their persons. Necklaces of the grisly or +white bear's claws, are worn exclusively by the men. + +Their arms consist of bows made of cedar, six feet in length, with a +short iron spike at one end, and serve occasionally as a spear. Their +arrows are well made, barbed, and pointed with iron, flint, stone, or +bone; they are feathered, and from two or two feet and a half in length. +They have two kinds of spears, but both are double edged, and of well +polished iron; one of them is about twelve inches long, and two wide; +the other about half the width, and two thirds of the length; the shafts +of the first are eight feet in length, and the latter six. They have +also spears made of bone. Their knives consist of pieces of iron, +shaped and handled by themselves. Their axes are something like our +adze, and they use them in the same manner as we employ that instrument. +They were, indeed, furnished with iron in a manner that I could not have +supposed, and plainly proved to me that their communication with those, +who communicate with the inhabitants of the sea coast, cannot be very +difficult, and from their ample provision of iron weapons, the means of +procuring it must be of a more distant origin than I had at first +conjectured. + +They have snares made of green skin, which they cut to the size of +sturgeon twine, and twist a certain number of them together; and though +when completed they do not exceed the thickness of a cod-line, their +strength is sufficient to hold a moose-deer; they are from one and a +half to two fathoms in length. Their nets and fishing-lines are made of +willow-bark and nettles; those made of the latter are finer and smoother +than if made with hempen thread. Their hooks are small bones, fixed in +pieces of wood split for that purpose, and tied round with fine watape, +which has been particularly described in the former voyage. Their +kettles are also made of watape, which is so closely woven that they +never leak, and they heat water in them, by putting red-hot stones into +it. There is one kind of them, made of spruce-bark, which they hang +over the fire, but at such a distance as to receive the heat without +being within reach of the blaze; a very tedious operation. They have +various dishes of wood and bark; spoons of horn and wood, and buckets; +bags of leather and net-work, and baskets of bark, some of which hold +their fishing-tackle, while others are contrived to be carried on the +back. They have a brown kind of earth in great abundance, with which +they rub their clothes, not only for ornament but utility, as it +prevents the leather from becoming hard after it has been wetted. They +have spruce bark in great plenty, with which they make their canoes, an +operation that does not require any great portion of skill or ingenuity, +and is managed in the following manner.--The bark is taken off the +tree the whole length of the intended canoe, which is commonly about +eighteen feet, and is sewed with watape at both ends; two laths are then +laid, and fixed along the edge of the bark which forms the gunwale; in +these are fixed the bars, and against them bear the ribs or timbers, +that are out to the length to which the bark can be stretched; and, to +give additional strength, strips of wood are laid between them: to make +the whole water-tight, gum is abundantly employed. These vessels carry +from two to five people. Canoes of a similar construction were used by +the Beaver Indians within these few years, but they now very generally +employ those made of the bark of the birch tree, which are by far more +durable. Their paddles are about six feet long, and about one foot is +occupied by the blade, which is in the shape of an heart. + +Previous to our departure, the natives had caught a couple of trout, of +about six pounds weight, which they brought me, and I paid them with +beads. They likewise gave me a net, made of nettles, the skin of a +moose-deer, dressed, and a white horn in the shape of a spoon which +resembles the horn of the buffalo of the Copper-Mine-River; but their +description of the animal to which it belongs does not answer to that. +My young men also got two quivers of excellent arrows, a collar of white +bear's claws, of a great length, horn bracelets, and other articles, for +which they received an ample remuneration. + +[1] We had been obliged to indulge our hunters with sitting idle in the +canoe, lest their being compelled to share in the labour of navigating +it should disgust and drive them from us. We, therefore, employed them +as much as possible on shore, as well to procure provisions, as to +lighten the canoe. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +JUNE, 1793. + +_Monday, 10._--At ten we were ready to embark. I then took leave of +the Indians, but encouraged them to expect us in two moons, and +expressed an hope that I should find them on the road with any of their +relations whom they might meet. I also returned the beaver skins to the +man who had presented them to me, desiring him to take care of them till +I came back, when I would purchase them of him. Our guide expressed +much less concern about the undertaking in which he had engaged, than +his companions, who appeared to be affected with great solicitude for +his safety. + +We now pushed off the canoe from the bank, and proceeded East half a +mile, when a river flowed in from the left, about half as large as that +which we were navigating. We continued the same course three quarters +of a mile, when we missed two of our fowling pieces, which had been +forgotten, and I sent their owners back for them, who were absent on +this errand upwards of an hour. We now proceeded North-East by East +half a mile, North-East by North three quarters of a mile, when the +current slackened; there was a verdant spot on the left, where, from the +remains of some Indian timber-work, it appeared, that the natives have +frequently encamped. Our next course was East one mile, and we saw a +ridge of mountains covered with snow to the South-East. The land on our +right was low and marshy for three or four miles, when it rose into a +range of heights that extended to the mountains. We proceeded +East-South-East a mile and a half, South-East by East one mile, East by +South three quarters of a mile, South-East by East one mile, East by +South half a mile, North-East by East one mile, South-East half a mile, +East-North-East a mile and a quarter, South-South-East half a mile, +North-North-East a mile and a half: here a river flowed in from the +left, which was about one-fourth part as large as that which received +its tributary waters. We then continued East by South half a mile, to +the foot of the mountain on the South of the above river. The course +now veered short, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, East by +South a quarter of a mile, South half a mile, South-East by South half a +mile, South-West a quarter of a mile, East by South a quarter of a mile, +veered to West-North-West a quarter of a mile, South-West one eighth of +a mile, East-South-East one quarter of a mile, East one sixth of a mile, +South-South-West one twelfth of a mile, East-South-East one eighth of a +mile, North-East by East one third of a mile, East by North one twelfth +of a mile, North-East by East one third of a mile, East one sixteenth of +a mile, South-East one twelfth of a mile, North-East by East one twelfth +of a mile, East one eighth of a mile, and East-South-East half a mile, +when we landed at seven o'clock and encamped. During the greatest part +of the distance we came to-day, the river runs close under the mountains +on the left. + + +_Tuesday, 11._--The morning was clear and cold. On my interpreter's +encouraging the guide to dispel all apprehension, to maintain his +fidelity to me, and not to desert in the night, "How is it possible for +me," he replied, "to leave the lodge of the Great Spirit!--When he +tells me that he has no further occasion for me, I will then return to +my children." As we proceeded, however, he soon lost, and with good +reason, his exalted notions of me. + +[Transcriber's Note: The date of this journal entry was given as +_Wednesday, 12._ in this edition. It has been corrected here to be in +agreement with context and with other editions.] + +At four we continued our voyage, steering East by South a mile and a +half, East-South-East half a mile. A river appeared on the left, at the +foot of a mountain which, from its conical form, my young Indian called +the Beaver Lodge Mountain. Having proceeded South-South-East half a +mile, another river appeared from the right. We now came in a line with +the beginning of the mountains we saw yesterday: others of the same kind +ran parallel with them on the left side of the river, which was reduced +to the breadth of fifteen yards, and with a moderate current. + +We now steered East-North-East one eighth of a mile, South-East by South +one eighth of a mile, East-South-East one sixth of a mile, South-West +one eighth of a mile, East-South-East one eighth of a mile, +South-South-East one sixth of a mile, North-East by East one twelfth of +a mile, East-South-East half a mile, South-West by West one third of a +mile, South-South-East one eighth of a mile, South-South-West one +quarter of a mile, North-East one sixth of a mile, South by West one +fourth of a mile, East three quarters of a mile, and North-East one +quarter of a mile. Here the mountain on the left appeared to be +composed of a succession of round hills, covered with wood almost to +their summits, which were white with snow, and crowned with withered +trees. We now steered East, in a line with the high lands on the right +five miles; North one twelfth of a mile, North-East by North one eighth +of a mile, South by East one sixteenth of a mile, North-East by North +one fourth of a mile, where another river fell in from the right; +North-East by East one sixth of a mile, East two miles and a half, South +one twelfth of a mile, North-East half a mile, South-East one third of a +mile, East one mile and a quarter, South-South-West one sixteenth of a +mile, North-East by East half a mile, East one mile and three quarters, +South and South-West by West half a mile, North-East half a mile, South +one third of a mile, North-East by North one sixth of a mile, East by +South one fourth of a mile, South one eighth of a mile, South-East three +quarters of a mile. The canoe had taken in so much water, that it was +necessary for us to land here, in order to stop the leakage, which +occasioned the delay of an hour and a quarter, North-East a quarter of a +mile, East-North-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by South a +sixteenth of a mile, East by South a twelfth of a mile, North-East one +sixth of a mile, East-South-East one sixteenth of a mile, South-West +half a mile, North-East a quarter of a mile, East by South half a mile, +South-South-East one twelfth of a mile, East half a mile, North-East by +North a quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a mile, +North-East by North one twelfth of a mile, where a small river flowed in +from the left, South-East by East one twelfth of a mile, South by East a +quarter of a mile, South-East one eighth of a mile, East one twelfth of +a mile, North-East by North a quarter of a mile, South half a mile, +South-East by South one eighth of a mile, North-East one fourth of a +mile, South-East by East, and South-East by South one third of a mile, +East-South-East, and North-North-East one third of a mile, and South by +West, East and East-North-East one eighth of a mile. + +Here we quitted the main branch, which, according to the information of +our guide, terminates at a short distance, where it is supplied by the +snow which covers the mountains. In the same direction is a valley +which appears to be of very great depth, and is full of snow, that rises +nearly to the height of the land, and forms a reservoir of itself +sufficient to furnish a river, whenever there is a moderate degree of +heat. The branch which we left was not, at this time, more than ten +yards broad, while that which we entered was still less. Here the +current was very trifling, and the channel so meandering, that we +sometimes found it difficult to work the canoe forward. The straight +course from this to the entrance of a small lake or pond, is about East +one mile. This entrance by the river into the lake was almost choked up +by a quantity of drift-wood, which appeared to me to be an extraordinary +circumstance: but I afterwards found that it falls down from the +mountains. The water, however, was so high, that the country was +entirely overflowed, and we passed with the canoe among the branches of +trees. The principal wood along the banks is spruce, intermixed with a +few white birch, growing on detached spots, the intervening spaces being +covered with willow and elder. We advanced about a mile in the lake, +and took up our station for the night at an old Indian encampment. Here +we expected to meet with natives, but were disappointed; but our guide +encouraged us with the hope of seeing some on the morrow. We saw beaver +in the course of the afternoon, but did not discharge our pieces from +the fear of alarming the inhabitants; there were also swans in great +numbers, with geese and ducks, which we did not disturb for the same +reason. We observed also the tracks of moose-deer that had crossed the +river; and wild parsnips grew here in abundance, which have been already +mentioned as a grateful vegetable. Of birds, we saw bluejays, yellow +birds, and one beautiful humming-bird; of the first and last, I had not +seen any since I had been in the North-West. + + +_Wednesday June 12._--The weather was the same as yesterday, and we +proceeded between three and four in the morning. We took up the net +which we had set the preceding evening, when it contained a trout, one +white fish, one carp, and three jub. The lake is about two miles in +length, East by South, and from three to five hundred yards wide. This +I consider as the highest and Southernmost source of the Unjigah, or +Peace River, latitude, 54. 24. North, longitude 121. West from +Greenwich, which, after a winding course through a vast extent of +country, receiving many large rivers in its progress, and passing +through the Slave Lake, empties itself into the Frozen Ocean, in +70. North latitude, and about 135. West longitude. + +[Transcriber's Note: The date of the current journal entry is located +incorrectly in the text of this edition. It is moved here from context +and in agreement with other editions.] + +We landed and unloaded, where we found a beaten path leading over a low +ridge of land eight hundred and seventeen paces in length, to another +small lake. The distance between the two mountains at this place is +about a quarter of a mile, rocky precipices presenting themselves on +both sides. A few large spruce trees and liards were scattered over the +carrying-place. There were also willows along the side of the water, +with plenty of grass and weeds. The natives had left their old canoes +here, with baskets hanging on the trees, which contained various +articles. From the latter I took a net, some hooks, a goat's-horn, and +a kind of wooden trap, in which, as our guide informed me, the +ground-hog is taken. I left, however, in exchange, a knife, some +fire-steels, beads, awls, &c. Here two streams tumble down the rocks +from the right, and lose themselves in the lake which we had left; while +two others fall from the opposite heights, and glide into the lake which +we were approaching; this being the highest point of land dividing these +waters, and we are now going with the stream. This lake runs in the +same course as the last, but is rather narrower, and not more than half +the length. We were obliged to clear away some floating drift-wood to +get to the carrying-place, over which is a beaten path of only an +hundred and seventy-five paces long. The lake empties itself by a small +river, which, if the channel were not interrupted by large trees that +had fallen across it, would have admitted of our canoe with all its +lading: the impediment, in deed, might have been removed by two axe-men +in a few hours. On the edge of the water, we observed a large quantity +of thick yellow, scum or froth, of an acrid taste and smell. + +We embarked on this lake, which is in the same course, and about the +same size as that which we had just left, and from whence we passed into +a small river, that was so full of fallen wood, as to employ some time, +and require some exertion, to force a passage. At the entrance, it +afforded no more water than was just sufficient to bear the canoe; but +it was soon increased by many small streams which came in broken rills +down the rugged sides of the mountains, and were furnished, as I +suppose, by the melting of the snow. These accessory streamlets had all +the coldness of ice. Our course continued to be obstructed by banks of +gravel, as well as trees which had fallen across the river. We were +obliged to force our way through the one, and to cut through the other, +at a great expense of time and trouble. In many places the current was +also very rapid and meandering. At four in the afternoon, we stopped to +unload and carry, and at five we entered a small round lake of about one +third of a mile in diameter. From the last lake to this is, I think, in +a straight line, East by South six miles, though it is twice that +distance by the winding of the river. We again entered the river, which +soon ran with great rapidity, and rushed impetuously over a bed of flat +stones. At half past six we were stopped by two large trees that lay +across the river, and it was with great difficulty that the canoe was +prevented from driving against them. Here we unloaded and formed our +encampment. + +The weather was cloudy and raw, and as the circumstances of this day's +voyage had compelled us to be frequently in the water, which was cold as +ice, we were almost in a benumbed state. Some of the people who had +gone ashore to lighten the canoe, experienced great difficulty in +reaching us, from the rugged state of the country; it was, indeed, +almost dark when they arrived. We had no sooner landed than I sent two +men down the river to bring me some account of its circumstances, that I +might form a judgment of the difficulties which might await us on the +morrow; and they brought back a fearful detail of rapid currents, fallen +trees, and large stones. At this place our guide manifested evident +symptoms of discontent: he had been very much alarmed in going down some +of the rapids with us, and expressed an anxiety to return. He shewed us +a mountain, at no great distance, which he represented as being on the +other side of a river, into which this empties itself. + + +_Thursday, 13._--At an early hour of this morning the men began to cut +a road, in order to carry the canoe and lading beyond the rapid; and by +seven they were ready. That business was soon effected, and the canoe +reladen, to proceed with the current which ran with great rapidity. In +order to lighten her, it was my intention to walk with some of the +people; but those in the boat with great earnestness requested me to +embark, declaring, at the same time, that, if they perished, I should +perish with them. I did not then imagine in how short a period their +apprehension would be justified. We accordingly pushed off, and had +proceeded but a very short way when the canoe struck, and +notwithstanding all our exertions, the violence of the current was so +great as to drive her sideways down the river, and break her by the +first bar, when I instantly jumped into the water, and the men followed +my example; but before we could set her straight, or stop her, we came +to deeper water, so that we were obliged to re-embark with the utmost +precipitation. One of the men who was not sufficiently active, was left +to get on shore in the best manner in his power. We had hardly regained +our situations when we drove against a rock which shattered the stern of +the canoe in such a manner, that it held only by the gunwales, so that +the steersman could no longer keep his place. The violence of this +stroke drove us to the opposite side of the river, which is but narrow, +when the bow met with the same fate as the stern. At this moment the +foreman seized on some branches of a small tree in the hope of bringing +up the canoe, but such was their elasticity that, in a manner not easily +described, he was jerked on shore in an instant, and with a degree of +violence that threatened his destruction. But we had no time to turn +from our own situation to enquire what had befallen him; for, in a few +moments, we came across a cascade which broke several large holes in the +bottom of the canoe, and started all the bars, except one behind the +scooping seat. If this accident, however, had not happened, the vessel +must have been irretrievably overset. The wreck becoming flat on the +water, we all jumped out, while the steersman, who had been compelled to +abandon his place, and had not recovered from his fright, called out to +his companions to save themselves. My peremptory commands superseded +the effects of his fear, and they all held fast to the wreck; to which +fortunate resolution we owed our safety, as we should otherwise have +been dashed against the rocks by the force of the water, or driven over +the cascades. In this condition we were forced several hundred yards, +and every yard on the verge of destruction; but, at length, we most +fortunately arrived in shallow water and a small eddy, where we were +enabled to make a stand, from the weight of the canoe resting on the +stones, rather than from any exertions of our exhausted strength. For +though our efforts were short, they were pushed to the utmost, as life +or death depended on them. + +This alarming scene, with all its terrors and dangers, occupied only a +few minutes; and in the present suspension of it, we called to the +people on shore to come to our assistance, and they immediately obeyed +the summons. The foreman, however, was the first with us; he had +escaped unhurt from the extraordinary jerk with which he was thrown out +of the boat, and just as we were beginning to take our effects out of +the water, he appeared to give his assistance. The Indians, when they +saw our deplorable situation, instead of making the least effort to help +us, sat down and gave vent to their tears. I was on the outside of the +canoe, where I remained till every thing was got on shore, in a state of +great pain from the extreme cold of the water; so that at length, it was +with difficulty I could stand, from the benumbed state of my limbs. + +The loss was considerable and important, for it consisted of our whole +stock of balls, and some of our furniture; but these considerations were +forgotten in the impressions of our miraculous escape. Our first +inquiry was after the absent man, whom in the first moment of danger, we +had left to get on shore, and in a short time his appearance removed our +anxiety. We had, however, sustained no personal injury of consequence, +and my bruises seemed to be in the greater proportion. + +All the different articles were now spread out to dry. The powder had +fortunately received no damage, and all my instruments had escaped. +Indeed, when my people began to recover from their alarm, and to enjoy a +sense of safety, some of them, if not all, were by no means sorry for +our late misfortune, from the hope that it must put a period to our +voyage, particularly as we were without a canoe, and all the bullets +sunk in the river. It did not, indeed, seem possible to them that we +could proceed under these circumstances. I listened, however, to the +observations that were made on the occasion without replying to them, +till their panic was dispelled, and they had got themselves warm and +comfortable, with an hearty meal, and rum enough to raise their spirits. + +I then addressed them, by recommending them all to be thankful for their +late very narrow escape. I also stated, that the navigation was not +impracticable in itself, but from our ignorance of its course; and that +our late experience would enable us to pursue our voyage with greater +security. I brought to their recollection, that I did not deceive them, +and that they were made acquainted with the difficulties and dangers +they must expect to encounter, before they engaged to accompany me. I +also urged the honour of conquering disasters, and the disgrace that +would attend them on their return home, without having attained the +object of the expedition. Nor did I fail to mention the courage and +resolution which was the peculiar boast of the North men; and that I +depended on them, at that moment, for the maintenance of their +character. I quieted their apprehension as to the loss of the bullets, +by bringing to their recollection that we still had shot from which they +might be manufactured. I at the same time acknowledged the difficulty +of restoring the wreck of the canoe, but confided in our skill and +exertion to put it in such a state as would carry us on to where we +might procure bark, and build a new one. In short, my harangue produced +the desired effect, and a very general assent appeared to go wherever I +should lead the way. + +Various opinions were offered in the present posture of affairs, and it +was rather a general wish that the wreck should be abandoned, and all +the lading carried to the river, which our guide informed us was at no +great distance, and in the vicinity of woods where he believed there was +plenty of bark. This project seemed not to promise that certainty to +which I looked in my present operations; besides, I had my doubts +respecting the views of my guide, and consequently could not confide in +the representation he made to me. I therefore dispatched two of the men +at nine in the morning, with one of the young Indians, for I did not +venture to trust the guide out of my sight, in search of bark, and to +endeavor, if it were possible, in the course of the day, to penetrate to +the great river, into which that before us discharges itself in the +direction which the guide had communicated. I now joined my people in +order to repair, as well as circumstances would admit, our wreck of a +canoe, and I began to set them the example. + +At noon I had an altitude, which gave 54. 23. North latitude. At four +in the afternoon I took time, with the hope that in the night I might +obtain an observation of Jupiter, and his satellites, but I had not a +sufficient horizon, from the propinquity of the mountains. The result +of my calculation for the time was 1. 32. 28. slow apparent time. + +It now grew late, and the people who had been sent on the excursion +already mentioned, were, not yet returned; about ten o'clock, however, I +heard a man halloo, and I very gladly returned the signal. In a short +time our young Indian arrived with a small roll of indifferent bark: he +was oppressed with fatigue and hunger, and his clothes torn to rags: he +had parted with the other two men at sunset, who had walked the whole +day, in a dreadful country, without procuring any good bark, or being +able to get to the large river. His account of the river, on whose +banks we were, could not be more unfavourable or discouraging; it had +appeared to him to be little more than a succession of falls and rapids, +with occasional interruptions of fallen trees. + +Our guide became so dissatisfied and troubled in mind, that we could not +obtain from him any regular account of the country before us. All we +could collect from him was, that the river into which this empties +itself, is but a branch of a large river, the great fork being at no +great distance from the confluence of this; and that he knew of no lake, +or large body of still water, in the vicinity of these rivers. To this +account of the country, he added some strange, fanciful, but terrifying +descriptions of the natives, similar to those which were mentioned in +the former voyage. + +We had an escape this day, which I must add to the many instances of +good fortune which I experienced in this perilous expedition. The +powder had been spread out, to the amount of eighty pounds weight, to +receive the air; and, in this situation, one of the men carelessly and +composedly walked across it with a lighted pipe in his mouth, but +without any ill consequence resulting from such an act of criminal +negligence. I need not add that one spark might have put a period to +all my anxiety and ambition. + +I observed several trees and plants on the banks of this river, which I +had not seen to the North of the latitude 52. such as the cedar, maple, +hemlock, &c. At this time the water rose fast, and passed on with the +rapidity of an arrow shot from a bow. + + +_Friday 14._--The weather was fine, clear, and warm, and at an early +hour of the morning we resumed our repair of the canoe. At half past +seven our two men returned hungry and cold, not having tasted food, or +enjoyed the least repose for twenty-four hours, with their clothes torn +into tatters, and their skin lacerated, in passing through the woods. +Their account was the same as that brought by the Indian, with this +exception, that they had reason to think they saw the river, or branch +which our guide had mentioned: but they were of opinion that from the +frequent obstructions in this river, we should have to carry the whole +way to it, through a dreadful country, where much time and labour would +be required to open a passage through it. + +Discouraging as these accounts were, they did not, however, interrupt +for a moment the task in which we were engaged, of repairing the canoe; +and this work we contrived to complete by the conclusion of the day. +The bark which was brought by the Indian, with some pieces of oil-cloth, +and plenty of gum, enabled us to put our shattered vessel in a condition +to answer our present purposes. The guide, who has been mentioned as +manifesting continual signs of dissatisfaction, now assumed an air of +contentment, which I attributed to a smoke that was visible in the +direction of the river; as he naturally expected, if we should fall in +with any natives, which was now very probable, from such a circumstance, +that he should be released from a service which he had found so irksome +and full of danger. I had an observation at noon, which made our +latitude 54. 23. 48. North. I also took time, and found it slow +apparent time 1. 38. 44. + + +_Saturday, 15._--The weather continued the same as the preceding day, +and according to the directions which I had previously given, my people +began at a very early hour to open a road, through which we might carry +a part of our lading; as I was fearful of risking the whole of it in the +canoe, in its present weak state, and in a part of the river which is +full of shoals and rapids. Four men were employed to conduct her, +lightened as she was of twelve packages. They passed several dangerous +places, and met with various obstructions, the current of the river +being frequently stopped by rafts of drift wood, and fallen trees, so +that after fourteen hours hard labour we had not made more than three +miles. Our course was South-East by East, and as we had not met with +any accident, the men appeared to feel a renewed courage to continue +their voyage. In the morning, however, one of the crew, whose name was +Beauchamp, peremptorily refused to embark in the canoe. This being the +first example of absolute disobedience which had yet appeared during the +course of our expedition, I should not have passed it over without +taking some very severe means to prevent a repetition of it; but as he +had the general character of a simple fellow, among his companions, and +had been frightened out of what little sense he possessed, by our late +dangers, I rather preferred to consider him as unworthy of accompanying +us, and to represent him as an object of ridicule and contempt for his +pusillanimous behaviour; though, in fact, he was a very useful, active, +and laborious man. + +At the close of the day we assembled round a blazing fire; and the whole +party, being enlivened with the usual beverage which I supplied on these +occasions, forgot their fatigues and apprehensions; nor did they fail to +anticipate the pleasure they should enjoy in getting clear of their +present difficulties, and gliding onwards with a strong and steady +stream, which our guide had described as the characteristic of the large +river we soon expected to enter. + + +_Sunday, 16._--The fine weather continued, and we began our work, as +we had done the preceding day; some were occupied in opening a road, +others were carrying, and the rest employed in conducting the canoe. I +was of the first party, and soon discovered that we had encamped about +half a mile above several falls, over which we could not attempt to run +the canoe, lightened even as she was. This circumstance rendered it +necessary that the road should be made sufficiently wide to admit the +canoe to pass; a tedious and toilsome work. In running her down a rapid +above the falls, a hole was broken in her bottom, which occasioned a +considerable delay, as we were destitute of the materials necessary for +her effectual reparation. On my being informed of this misfortune, I +returned, and ordered Mr. Mackay, with two Indians, to quit their +occupation in making the road, and endeavour to penetrate to the great +river, according to the direction which the guide had communicated, +without paying any attention to the course of the river before us. + +When the people had repaired the canoe in the best manner they were +able, we conducted her to the head of the falls; she was then unloaded +and taken out of the water, when we carried her for a considerable +distance through a low, swampy country. I appointed four men to this +laborious office, which they executed at the peril of their lives, for +the canoe was now become so heavy, from the additional quantity of bark +and gum necessary to patch her up, that two men could not carry her more +than an hundred yards, without being relieved; and as their way lay +through deep mud, which was rendered more difficult by the roots and +prostrate trunks of trees, they were every moment in danger of falling; +and beneath such a weight, one false step might have been attended with +fatal consequences. The other two men and myself followed as fast as we +could, with the lading. Thus did we toil till seven o'clock in the +evening, to get to the termination of the road that had been made in the +morning. Here Mr. Mackay and the Indian joined us, after having been at +the river, which they represented as rather large. They had also +observed, that the lower part of the river before us was so full of +fallen wood, that the attempt to clear a passage through it, would be an +unavailing labour. The country through which they had passed was +morass, and almost impenetrable wood. In passing over one of the +embarras, our dog, which was following them, fell in, and it was with +very great difficulty that he was saved, as the current had carried him +under the drift. They brought with them two geese, which had been shot +in the course of their expedition. To add to our perplexities and +embarrassments, we were persecuted by mosquitoes and sand-flies, through +the whole of the day. + +The extent of our journey was not more than two miles South-East; and so +much fatigue and pain had been suffered in the course of it, that my +people, as might be expected, looked forward to a continuance of it with +discouragement and dismay. I was, indeed, informed that murmurs +prevailed among them, of which, however, I took no notice. When we were +assembled together for the night, I gave each of them a dram, and in a +short time they retired to the repose which they so much required. We +could discover the termination of the mountains at a considerable +distance on either side of us, which, according to my conjecture, marked +the course of the great river. On the mountains to the East there were +several fires, as their smokes were very visible to us. Excessive heat +prevailed throughout the day. + + +_Monday, 17._--Having sat up till twelve last night, which had been my +constant practice since we had taken our present guide, I awoke +Mr. Mackay to watch him in turn. I then laid down to rest, and at three +I was awakened to be informed that he had deserted. Mr. Mackay, with +whom I was displeased on this occasion, and the Cancre, accompanied by +the dog, went in search of him, but he had made his escape: a design +which he had for some time meditated, though I had done every thing in +my power to induce him to remain with me. + +This misfortune did not produce any relaxation in our exertions. At an +early hour of the morning we were all employed in cutting a passage of +three quarters of a mile, through which we carried our canoe and cargo, +when we put her into the water with her lading, but in a very short time +were stopped by the drift-wood, and were obliged to land and carry. In +short, we pursued our alternate journeys, by land and water, till noon, +when we could proceed no further, from the various small unnavigable +channels into which the river branched in every direction; and no other +mode of getting forward now remained for us, but by cutting a road +across a neck of land. I accordingly dispatched two men to ascertain +the exact distance, and we employed the interval of their absence in +unloading and getting the canoe out of the water. It was eight in the +evening when we arrived at the bank of the great river. This journey +was three quarters of a mile East-North-East, through a continued swamp, +where, in many places, we waded up to the middle of our thighs. Our +course in the small river was about South-East by East three miles. At +length we enjoyed, after all our toil and anxiety, the inexpressible +satisfaction of finding ourselves on the bank of a navigable river, on +the West side of the first great range of mountains. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +JUNE, 1793. + +_Tuesday, 18._--It rained throughout the night and till seven in the +morning; nor was I sorry that the weather gave me an excuse for +indulging my people with that additional rest, which their fatigues, +during the last three days, rendered so comfortable to them. Before +eight, however, we were on the water, and driven on by a strong current, +when we steered East-South-East half a mile, South-West by South half a +mile, South-South-East half a mile, South-West half a mile, went round +to North-West half a mile, backed South-South-East three quarters of a +mile, South-South-West half a mile, South by East a quarter of a mile, +and South-West by South three quarters of a mile. Here the water had +fallen considerably, so that several mud and sand-banks were visible. +There was also a hill a-head, West-South-West. + +The weather was so hazy that we could not see across the river, which is +here about two hundred yards wide. We now proceeded South by West one +third of a mile, when we saw a considerable quantity of beaver work +along the banks, North-North-West half a mile, South-West by West one +mile and a half, South-South-West one third of a mile, West by South one +third of a mile, South by East half a mile. Mountains rose on the left, +immediately above the river, whose summits were covered with snow; +South-West half a mile, South a quarter of a mile, South-East one third +of a mile, South-South-West half a mile. Here are several islands; we +then veered to West by South a third of a mile, South-South-East a sixth +of a mile. On the right, the land is high, rocky, and covered with +wood; West-South-West one mile; a small river running in from the +South-East; South-West half a mile, South three quarters of a mile, +South-West half a mile, South by West half a mile. Here a rocky point +protrudes from the left, and narrows the river to a hundred yards; +South-East half a mile, East by South one eighth of a mile. The current +now was very strong, but perfectly safe; South-East by South an eighth +of a mile, West by North one third of a mile, South by West a twelfth of +a mile, South-West one fourth of a mile. Here the high land terminates +on one side of the river, while rocks rise to a considerable height +immediately above the other, and the channel widens to a hundred and +fifty yards, West by South one mile. The river now narrows again +between rocks of a moderate height, North-North-East an eighth of a +mile, veered to South-West an eighth of a mile, South and South-West +half a mile. The country appeared to be low, as far as I could judge of +it from the canoe, as the view is confined by woods at the distance of +about a hundred yards from the banks. Our course continued West by +North two miles, North half a mile, North-West a quarter of a mile, +South-West two miles, North-West three quarters of a mile; when a ridge +of high land appeared in this direction; West one mile. A small river +flowed in from the North; South a quarter of a mile, North-West half a +mile, South-South-West two miles and a half, South-East three quarters +of a mile; a rivulet lost itself in the main stream, West-North-West +half a mile. Here the current slackened, and we proceeded +South-South-West three quarters of a mile, South-West three quarters of +a mile, South by East three quarters of a mile, South-East by East one +mile, when it veered gradually to West-North-West half a mile; the river +being full of islands. We proceeded due North, with little current, the +river presenting a beautiful sheet of water for a mile and a half, +South-West by West one mile, West-North-West one mile, when it veered +round to South-East one mile, West by North one mile, South-East one +mile, West by North three quarters of a mile, South one eighth of a +mile, when we came to an Indian cabin of late erection. Here was the +great fork, of which our guide had informed us, and it appeared to be +the largest branch from the South-East. It is about half a mile in +breadth, and assumes the form of a lake. The current was very slack, +and we got into the middle of the channel, when we steered West, and +sounded in sixteen feet water. + +A ridge of high land now stretched on, as it were, across our present +direction: this course was three miles. We then proceeded +West-South-West two miles, and sounded in twenty-four feet water. Here +the river narrowed and the current increased. We then continued our +course North-North-West three quarters of a mile, a small river falling +in from the North-East. It now veered to South by West one mile and a +quarter, West-South-West four miles and a half, West by North one mile +and a quarter, North-West by West one mile, West a mile and a quarter: +the land was high on both sides, and the river narrowed to an hundred +and fifty, or two hundred yards; North-West three quarters of a mile, +South-West by South two miles and a half: here its breadth again +increased; South by West one mile, West-South-West half a mile, +South-West by South three miles, South-South-East one mile, with a small +river running in from the left, South with a strong current one mile, +then East three quarters of a mile, South-West one mile, +South-South-East a mile and a half; the four last distances being a +continual rapid, South-West by West one mile, East-North-East a mile and +a half, East-South-East one mile, where a small river flowed in on the +right; South-West by South two miles and a half, when another small +river appeared from the same quarter; South by East half a mile and +South-West by West one mile and a quarter: here we landed for the night. +When we had passed the last river we observed smoke rising from it, as +if produced by fires that had been fresh lighted; I therefore concluded +that there were natives on its banks: but I was unwilling to fatigue my +people, by pulling back against the current in order to go in search of +them. + +This river appeared, from its high water-mark, to have fallen no more +than one foot, while the smaller branch, from a similar measurement, had +sunk two feet and a half. On our entering it, we saw a flock of ducks +which were entirely white, except the bill and part of the wings. The +weather was cold and raw throughout the day, and the wind South-West. +We saw a smoke rising in columns from many parts of the woods, and I +should have been more anxious to see the natives, if there had been any +person with me who could have introduced me to them; but as that object +could not be then attained without considerable loss of time, I +determined to pursue the navigation while it continued to be so +favourable, and to wait till my return, if no very convenient +opportunity offered in the mean time, to engage an intercourse with +them. + + +_Wednesday, 19._--The morning was foggy, and at three we were on the +water. At half past that hour, our course was East by South three +quarters of a mile, a small river flowing in from the right. We then +proceeded South by East half a mile, and South-South-West a mile and a +half. During the last distance, clouds of thick smoke rose from the +woods, that darkened the atmosphere, accompanied with a strong odour of +the gum of cypress and the spruce-fir. Our courses continued to be +South-West a mile and a quarter, North-West by West three quarters of a +mile, South-South-East a mile and a quarter, East three quarters of a +mile, South-West one mile, West by South three quarters of a mile, +South-East by South three quarters of a mile, South by West half a mile, +West by South three quarters of a mile, South by West two miles and a +half. In the last course there was an island, and it appeared to me, +that the main channel of the river had formerly been on the other side +of it. The banks were here composed of high white cliffs, crowned with +pinnacles in very grotesque shapes. We continued to steer South-East by +South a mile and a half, South by East half a mile, East one mile and a +quarter, South-East by East one mile, South by East three quarters of a +mile, South-East by East one mile, South-South-East half a mile, East +one mile and a quarter, South by East half a mile, East a mile and half, +South-South-East three miles, and South-West three quarters of a mile. +In the last course the rocks contracted in such a manner on both sides +of the river, as to afford the appearance of the upper part of a fall or +cataract. Under this apprehension we landed on the left shore, where we +found a kind of footpath, imperfectly traced, through which we +conjectured that the natives occasionally passed with their canoes and +baggage. On examining the course of the river, however, there did not +appear to be any fall as we expected; but the rapids were of a +considerable length and impassable for a light canoe. We had therefore +no alternative but to widen the road so as to admit the passage of our +canoe, which was now carried with great difficulty; as from her frequent +repairs, and not always of the usual materials, her weight was such, +that she cracked and broke on the shoulders of the men who bore her. +The labour and fatigue of this undertaking, from eight till twelve, +beggars all description, when we at length conquered this afflicting +passage, of about half a mile, over a rocky and most rugged hill. Our +course was South-South-West. Here I took a meridian altitude which gave +me 53. 42. 20. North latitude. We, however, lost some time to put our +canoe in a condition to carry us onwards. Our course was South a +quarter of a mile to the next carrying-place; which was nothing more +than a rocky point about twice the length of the canoe. From the +extremity of this point to the rocky and almost perpendicular bank that +rose on the opposite shore, is not more than forty or fifty yards. The +great body of water, at the same time tumbling in successive cascades +along the first carrying-place, rolls through this narrow passage in a +very turbid current, and full of whirlpools. On the banks of the river +there was great plenty of wild onions, which when mixed up with our +pemmican was a great improvement of it; though they produced a physical +effect on our appetites, which was rather inconvenient to the state of +our provisions. + +Here we embarked, and steered South-East by East three quarters of a +mile. We now saw a smoke on the shore; but before we could reach land +the natives had deserted their camp, which appeared to be erected for no +more than two families. My two Indians were instantly dispatched in +search of them, and, by following their tracks, they soon overtook them; +but their language was mutually unintelligible; and all attempts to +produce a friendly communication were fruitless. They no sooner +perceived my young men than they prepared their bows and arrows, and +made signs for them not to advance; and they thought it prudent to +desist from proceeding, though not before the natives had discharged +five arrows at them, which, however, they avoided, by means of the +trees. When they returned with this account, I very much regretted that +I had not accompanied them; and as these people could not be at any very +great distance, I took Mr. Mackay, and one of the Indians with me in +order to overtake them; but they had got so far it would have been +imprudent in me to have followed them. My Indians, who, I believe, were +terrified at the manner in which these natives received them, informed +me, that, besides their bows, arrows, and spears, they were armed with +long knives, and that they accompanied their strange antics with +menacing actions and loud shoutings. On my return, I found my people +indulging their curiosity in examining the bags and baskets which the +natives had left behind them. Some of them contained their fishing +tackle, such as nets, lines, &c., others of a smaller size were filled +with a red earth, with which they paint themselves. In several of the +bags there were also sundry articles of which we did not know the use. +I prevented my men from taking any of them; and for a few articles of +mere curiosity, which I took myself, I left such things in exchange as +would be much more useful to their owners. + +At four we left this place, proceeding with the stream South-East three +quarters of a mile, East-South-East one mile, South three quarters of a +mile, South-South-West one mile, South by East three quarters of a mile, +South-South-East one mile, South-South-West two miles, South-South-East +three miles and a quarter, East by North one mile, South-South-East one +mile and a quarter, with a rapid, South-South-West three quarters of a +mile, South one mile and a half, South-East one mile and a quarter, +South three quarters of a mile, and South-South-East one mile and a +half. At half past seven we landed for the night, where a small river +flowed in from the right. The weather was showery, accompanied with +several loud claps of thunder. The banks were overshadowed by lofty +firs, and wide-spreading cedars. + + +_Thursday, 20._--The morning was foggy, and at half past four we +proceeded with a South wind, South-East by East two miles, +South-South-East two miles and a half, and South-South-West two miles. +The fog was so thick, that we could not see the length of our canoe, +which rendered our progress dangerous, as we might have come suddenly +upon a cascade or violent rapid. Our next course was West-North-West +two miles and a half, which comprehended a rapid. Being close in with +the left bank of the river, we perceived two red deer at the very edge +of the water: we killed one of them, and wounded the other, which was +very small. We now landed, and the Indians followed the wounded animal, +which they soon caught, and would have shot another in the woods, if our +dog, who followed them, had not disturbed it. From the number of their +tracks it appeared that they abounded in this country. They are not so +large as the elk of the Peace River, but are the real red deer, which I +never saw in the North, though I have been told that they are to be +found in great numbers in the plains along the Red, or Assiniboin River. +The bark had been stripped off many of the spruce trees, and carried +away, as I presumed, by the natives, for the purpose of covering their +cabins. We now got the venison on board, and continued our voyage +South-West one mile, South a mile and a half, and West one mile. Here +the country changed its appearance; the banks were but of a moderate +height, from whence the ground continued gradually rising to a +considerable distance, covered with poplars and cypresses, but without +any kind of underwood. There are also several low points which the +river, that is here about three hundred yards in breadth, sometimes +overflows, and are shaded with the liard, the soft birch, the spruce, +and the willow. For some distance before we came to this part of the +river, our view was confined within very rugged, irregular, and lofty +banks, which were varied with the poplar, different kinds of spruce fir, +small birch trees, cedars, alders, and several species of the willow. +Our next course was South-West by West six miles, when we landed at a +deserted house, which was the only Indian habitation of this kind that I +had seen on this side of Mechilimakina. It was about thirty feet long +and twenty wide, with three doors, three feet high by one foot and an +half in breadth. From this and other circumstances, it appears to have +been constructed for three families. There were also three fire-places, +at equal distances from each other; and the beds were on either side of +them. Behind the beds was a narrow space, in the form of a manger, and +somewhat elevated, which was appropriated to the purpose of keeping +fish. The wall of the house, which was five feet in height, was formed +of very strait spruce timbers, brought close together, and laid into +each other at the corners. The roof was supported by a ridge pole, +resting on two upright forks of about ten feet high; that and the wall +support a certain number of spars, which are covered with spruce bark; +and the whole attached and secured by the fibers of the cedar. One of +the gable ends is closed with split boards; the other with poles. Large +rods are also fixed across the upper part of the building, where fish +may hang and dry. To give the walls additional strength, upright posts +are fixed in the ground, at equal distances, both within and without, of +the same height as the wall, and firmly attached with bark fibres. +Openings appear also between the logs in the wall, for the purpose, as I +conjectured, of discharging their arrows at a besieging enemy; they +would be needless for the purpose of giving light, which is sufficiently +afforded by fissures between the logs of the building, so that it +appeared to be constructed merely for a summer habitation. There was +nothing further to attract our attention in or about the house, except a +large machine, which must have rendered the taking off the roof +absolutely necessary, in order to have introduced it. It was of a +cylindrical form, fifteen feet long, and four feet and an half in +diameter; one end was square, like the head of a cask, and an conical +machine was fixed inwards to the other end, of similar dimensions; at +the extremity of which was an opening of about seven inches in diameter. +This machine was certainly contrived to set in the river, to catch large +fish; and very well adapted to that purpose; as when they are once in, +it must be impossible for them to get out, unless they should have +strength sufficient to break through it. It was made of long pieces of +split wood, rounded to the size of a small finger, and placed at the +distance of an inch asunder, on six hoops; to this was added a kind of +boot of the same materials, into which it may be supposed that the fish +are driven, when they are to be taken out. The house was left in such +apparent order as to mark the design of its owners to return thither. +It answered in every particular the description given us by our late +guide, except that it was not situated on an island. + +We left this place, and steered South by East one mile and a quarter +when we passed where there had been another house, of which the +ridge-pole and supporters alone remained: the ice had probably carried +away the body of it. The bank was at this time covered with water, and +a small river flowed in on the left. On a point we observed an erection +that had the appearance of a tomb; it was in an oblong form, covered, +and very neatly walled with bark. A pole was fixed near it, to which, +at the height of ten or twelve feet, a piece of bark was attached, which +was probably a memorial, or symbol of distinction. Our next course was +South by West two miles and a half, when we saw a house on an island, +South-East by East one mile and three quarters, in which we observed +another island, with a house upon it. A river also flowed from the +right, and the land was high and rocky, and wooded with the epinette. + +Our canoe was now become so crazy that it was a matter of absolute +necessity to construct another; and as from the appearance of the +country there was reason to expect that bark was to be found, we landed +at eight, with the hope of procuring it. I accordingly dispatched four +men with that commission, and at twelve they returned with a sufficient +quantity to make the bottom of a canoe of five fathom in length, and +four feet and a half in height. At noon I had an observation, which +gave me 53. 17. 28. North latitude. + +We now continued our voyage South-East by South one mile and a half, +East-South-East one mile, East-North-East half a mile, South-East two +miles, South-East by South one mile, South-East six miles, and +East-North-East. Here the river narrows between steep rocks, and a +rapid succeeded, which was so violent that we did not venture to run it. +I therefore ordered the loading to be taken out of the canoe, but she +was now become so heavy that the men preferred running the rapid to the +carrying her overland. Though I did not altogether approve of their +proposition, I was unwilling to oppose it. Four of them undertook this +hazardous expedition, and I hastened to the foot of the rapid with great +anxiety, to wait the event, which turned out as I expected. The water +was so strong, that although they kept clear of the rocks, the canoe +filled, and in this state they drove half way down the rapid, but +fortunately she did not overset; and having got her into an eddy, they +emptied her, and in an half-drowned condition arrived safe on shore. +The carrying-place is about half a mile over, with an Indian path across +it. Mr. Mackay, and the hunters, saw some deer on an island above the +rapid; and had that discovery been made before the departure of the +canoe, there is little doubt but we should have added a considerable +quantity of venison to our stock of provisions. Our vessel was in such +a wretched condition, as I have already observed, that it occasioned a +delay of three hours to put her in a condition to proceed. At length we +continued our former course, East-North-East a mile and a half, when we +passed an extensive Indian encampment; East-South-East one mile, where a +small river appeared on the left; South-East by South one mile and three +quarters, East by South half a mile, East by North one mile, and saw +another house on an island; South half a mile, West three quarters of a +mile, South-West half a mile, where the cliffs of white and red clay +appeared like the ruins of ancient castles. Our canoe now veered +gradually to East-North-East one mile and a half, when we landed in a +storm of rain and thunder, where we perceived the remains of Indian +houses. It was impossible to determine the wind in any part of the day, +as it came a-head in all our directions. + + +_Friday, 21._--As I was very sensible of the difficulty of procuring +provisions in this country, I thought it prudent to guard against any +possibility of distress of that kind on our return; I therefore ordered +ninety pounds weight of pemmican to be buried in a hole, sufficiently +deep to admit of a fire over it without doing any injury to our hidden +treasure, and which would, at the same time, secure it from the natives +of the country, or the wild animals of the woods. + +The morning was very cloudy, and at four o'clock we renewed our voyage, +steering South by East one mile and a quarter, East-South-East half a +mile, South by East one mile and a half, East half a mile, South-East +two miles, where a large river flowed in from the left, and a smaller +one from the right. We then continued South by West three quarters of a +mile, East by South a mile and a half, South three quarters of a mile, +South-East by East one mile, South by East half a mile, South-East three +quarters of a mile, South-East by South half a mile, South-East by East +half a mile, the cliffs of blue and yellow clay, displaying the same +grotesque shapes as those which we passed yesterday, South-South-East a +mile and a half, South by East two miles. The latitude by observation +was 52. 47. 51. North. + +Here we perceived a small new canoe, that had been drawn up to the edge +of the woods, and soon after another appeared, with one man in it, which +came out of a small river. He no sooner saw us than he gave the whoop +to alarm his friends, who immediately appeared on the bank, armed with +bows and arrows, and spears. They were thinly habited, and displayed +the most outrageous antics. Though they were certainly in a state of +great apprehension, they manifested by their gestures that they were +resolved to attack us, if we should venture to land. I therefore +ordered the men to stop the way of the canoe, and even to check her +drifting with the current, as it would have been extreme folly to have +approached these savages before their fury had in some degree subsided. +My interpreters, who understood their language, informed me that they +threatened us with instant death if we drew nigh the shore; and they +followed the menace by discharging a volley of arrows, some of which +fell short of the canoe, and others passed over it, so that they +fortunately did us no injury. + +As we had been carried by the current below the spot where the Indians +were, I ordered my people to paddle to the opposite side of the river, +without the least appearance of confusion, so that they brought me +abreast of them. My interpreters, while we were within hearing, had +done every thing in their power to pacify them, but in vain. We also +observed that they had sent off a canoe with two men, down the river, as +we concluded, to communicate their alarm, and procure assistance. This +circumstance determined me to leave no means untried that might engage +us in a friendly intercourse with them, before they acquired additional +security and confidence, by the arrival of their relations and +neighbours, to whom their situation would be shortly notified. + +I therefore formed the following adventurous project, which was happily +crowned with success. I left the canoe, and walked by myself along the +beach, in order to induce some of the natives to come to me, which I +imagined they might be disposed to do, when they saw me alone, without +any apparent possibility of receiving assistance from my people, and +would consequently imagine that a communication with me was not a +service of danger. At the same time, in order to possess the utmost +security of which my situation was susceptible, I directed one of the +Indians to slip into the woods, with my gun and his own, and to conceal +himself from their discovery; he also had orders to keep as near me as +possible, without being seen; and if any of the natives should venture +across, and attempt to shoot me from the water, it was his instructions +to lay him low: at the same time he was particularly enjoined not to +fire till I had discharged one or both of the pistols that I carried in +my belt. If, however, any of them were to land, and approach my person, +he was immediately to join me. In the meantime my other interpreter +assured them that we entertained the most friendly dispositions, which I +confirmed by such signals as I conceived would be comprehended by them. +I had not, indeed, been long at my station, and my Indian in ambush +behind me, when two of the natives came off in a canoe, but stopped when +they had got within a hundred yards of me. I made signs for them to +land, and as an inducement, displayed looking-glasses, beads, and other +alluring trinkets. At length, but with every mark of extreme +apprehension, they approached the shore, stern foremost, but would not +venture to land. I now made them a present of some beads, with which +they were going to push off, when I renewed my entreaties, and, after +some time, prevailed on them to come ashore, and sit down by me. My +hunter now thought it right to join me, and created some alarm in my new +acquaintance. It was, however, soon removed, and I had the satisfaction +to find, that he and these people perfectly understood each other. I +instructed him to say every thing that might tend to soothe their fears +and win their confidence. I expressed my wish to conduct them to our +canoe, but they declined my offer; and when they observed some of my +people coming towards us, they requested me to let them return; and I +was so well satisfied with the progress I had made in my intercourse +with them, that I did not hesitate a moment in complying with their +desire. During their short stay, they observed us, and every thing +about us, with a mixture of admiration and astonishment. We could +plainly distinguish that their friends received them with great joy on +their return, and that the articles which they carried back with them +were examined with a general and eager curiosity; they also appeared to +hold a consultation, which lasted about a quarter of an hour, and the +result was, an invitation to come over to them, which was cheerfully +accepted. Nevertheless, on our landing they betrayed evident signs of +confusion, which arose probably from the quickness of our movements, as +the prospect of a friendly communication had so cheered the spirits of +my people, that they paddled across the river with the utmost +expedition. The two men, however, who had been with us, appeared, very +naturally, to possess the greatest share of courage on the occasion, and +were ready to receive us on our landing; but our demeanour soon +dispelled all their apprehensions, and the most familiar communication +took place between us. When I had secured their confidence, by the +distribution of trinkets among them, and treated the children with +sugar, I instructed my interpreters to collect every necessary +information in their power to afford me. + +According to their account, this river, whose course is very extensive, +runs towards the mid-day sun; and that at its mouth, as they had been +informed, white people were building houses. They represented its +current to be uniformly strong, and that in three places it was +altogether impassable, from the falls and rapids, which poured along +between perpendicular rocks that were much higher, and more rugged, than +any we had yet seen, and would not admit of any passage over them. But +besides the dangers and difficulties of the navigation, they added, that +we should have to encounter the inhabitants of the country, who were +very numerous. They also represented their immediate neighbours as a +very malignant race, who lived in large subterraneous recesses; and when +they were made to understand that it was our design to proceed to the +sea, they dissuaded us from prosecuting our intention, as we should +certainly become a sacrifice to the savage spirit of the natives. These +people they described as possessing iron, arms, and utensils, which they +procured from their neighbours to the Westward, and were obtained by a +commercial progress from people like ourselves, who brought them in +great canoes. + +Such an account of our situation, exaggerated as it might be in some +points, and erroneous in others, was sufficiently alarming, and awakened +very painful reflections: nevertheless it did not operate on my mind so +as to produce any change in my original determination. My first object, +therefore, was to persuade two of these people to accompany me, that +they might secure to us a favourable reception from their neighbours. +To this proposition they assented, but expressed some degree of +dissatisfaction at the immediate departure, for which we were making +preparation; but when we were ready to enter the canoe, a small one was +seen doubling the point below, with three men in it. We thought it +prudent to wait for their arrival, and they proved to be some of their +relations, who had received the alarm from the messengers which I have +already mentioned as having been sent down the river for that purpose, +and who had passed on, as we were afterwards informed, to extend the +notice of our arrival. Though these people saw us in the midst of their +friends, they displayed the most menacing actions, and hostile postures. +At length, however, this wild, savage spirit appeared to subside, and +they were persuaded to land. One of them, who was a middle aged person, +whose agitations had been less frequent than those of his companions, +and who was treated with particular respect by them all, inquired who we +were, whence we came, whither we were going, and what was the motive of +our coming into that country. When his friends had satisfied him as far +as they were able, respecting us, he instantly advised us to delay our +departure for that night, as their relations below, having been by this +time alarmed by the messengers, who had been sent for that purpose, +would certainly oppose our passage, notwithstanding I had two of their +own people with me. He added, that they would all of them be here by +sunset, they would convinced, as he was, that we were good people, and +meditated no ill designs against them. + +Such were the reasons which this Indian urged in favour of our remaining +till the next morning; and they were too well founded for me to hesitate +in complying with them; besides, by prolonging my stay till the next +morning, it was probable that I might obtain some important intelligence +respecting the country through which I was to pass, and the people who +inhabited it. I accordingly ordered the canoe to be unloaded, taken out +of the water, and gummed. My tent was also pitched, and the natives +were now become so familiar, that I was obliged to let them know my wish +to be alone and undisturbed. + +My first application to the native whom I have already particularly +mentioned, was to obtain from him such a plan of the river as he should +be enabled to give me; and he complied with this request with a degree +of readiness and intelligence that evidently proved it was by no means a +new business to him. In order to acquire the best information he could +communicate, I assured him, if I found his account correct, that I +should either return myself, or send others to them, with such articles +as they appeared to want: particularly arms and ammunition, with which +they would be able to prevent their enemies from invading them. I +obtained, however, no addition to what I already knew, but that the +country below us, as far as he was acquainted with it, abounded in +animals, and that the river produced plenty of fish. + +Our canoe was now become so weak, leaky, and unmanageable, that it +became a matter of absolute necessity to construct a new one; and I had +been informed, that if we delayed that important work till we got +further down the river, we should not be able to procure bark. I +therefore dispatched two of my people, with an Indian, in search of that +necessary material. The weather was so cloudy that I could not get an +observation.[1] + +I passed the rest of the day in conversing with these people: they +consisted of seven families, containing eighteen men, they were clad in +leather, and handsome beaver and rabbit-skin blankets. They had not +been long arrived in this part of the country, where they proposed to +pass the summer, to catch fish for their winter provision: for this +purpose they were preparing machines similar to that which we found in +the first Indian house we saw and described. The fish which they take +in them are large, and only visit this part of the river at certain +seasons. These people differ very little, if at all, either in their +appearance, language, or manners, from the Rocky-Mountain Indians. The +men whom I sent in search of bark, returned with a certain quantity of +it, but of a very indifferent kind. We were not gratified with the +arrival of any of the natives whom we expected from a lower part of the +river. + +[1]The observation, already mentioned, I got on my return. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +JUNE, 1793. + +_Saturday, 22._--At six in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, +with two of the Indians, one of them in a small pointed canoe, made +after the fashion of the Esquimaux, and the other in our own. This +precaution was necessary in a two-fold point of view, as the small canoe +could be sent ahead to speak to any of the natives that might be seen +down the river, and, thus divided, would not be easy for them both to +make their escape. Mr. Mackay also embarked with the Indian, which +seemed to afford him great satisfaction, and he was thereby enabled to +keep us company with diminution of labour. + +Our courses were South-South-East a mile and a half, South-East half a +mile, South by East four miles and a half, South-East by South half a +mile, South by West half a mile, South-East by East one mile, +South-South-West a mile and a half, South by East one mile and a +quarter. The country, on the right, presented a very beautiful +appearance: it rose at first rather abruptly to the height of +twenty-five feet, when the precipice was succeeded by an inclined plain +to the foot of another steep; which was followed by another extent of +gently-rising ground: these objects, which were shaded with groves of +fir, presenting themselves alternately to a considerable distance. + +We now landed near a house, the roof of which alone appeared above +ground; but it was deserted by its inhabitants who had been alarmed at +our approach. We observed several men in the second steep, who +displayed the same postures and menacing actions as those which we have +so lately described. Our conductors went to them immediately on an +embassy of friendship, and, after a very vociferous discourse, one of +them was persuaded to come to us, but presented a very ferocious aspect: +the rest, who were seven in number, soon followed his example. They +held their bows and arrows in their hands, and appeared in their +garments, which were fastened round the neck, but left the right arm +free for action. A cord fastened a blanket or leather covering under +the right armpit, so that it hung upon the left shoulder, and might be +occasionally employed as a target, that would turn an arrow which was +nearly spent. As soon as they had recovered from their apprehensions, +ten women made their appearance, but without any children, whom, I +imagine, they had sent to a greater distance, to be out of reach of all +possible danger. I distributed a few presents among them, and left my +guides to explain to them the object of my journey, and the friendliness +of my designs, with which they had themselves been made acquainted; +their fears being at length removed, I gave them a specimen of the use +to which we applied our firearms: at the same time, I calmed their +astonishment, by the assurance, that, though we could at once destroy +those who did us injury, we could equally protect those who shewed us +kindness. Our stay here did not exceed half an hour, and we left these +people with favourable impressions of us. + +From this place we steered East by North half a mile, South by East +three quarters of a mile, and South by West a mile and a half, when we +landed again on seeing some of the natives on the high ground, whose +appearance was more wild and ferocious than any whom we had yet seen. +Indeed I was under some apprehension that our guides, who went to +conciliate them to us, would have fallen a prey to their savage fury. +At length, however, they were persuaded to entertain a more favourable +opinion of us, and they approached us one after another, to the number +of sixteen men, and several women, I shook hands with them all, and +desired my interpreters to explain that salutation as a token of +friend-ship. As this was not a place where we could remain with the +necessary convenience, I proposed to proceed further, in search of a +more commodious spot. They immediately invited us to pass the night at +their lodges, which were at no great distance, and promised, at the same +time, that they would, in the morning, send two young men to introduce +us to the next nation, who were very numerous, and ill-disposed towards +strangers. As we were pushing from the shore, we were very much +surprised at hearing a woman pronounce several words in the Knisteneaux +language. She proved to be a Rocky Mountain native, so that my +interpreters perfectly understood her. She informed us that her country +is at the forks of this river, and that she had been taken prisoner by +the Knisteneaux, who had carried her across the mountains. After having +passed the greatest part of the summer with them, she had contrived to +escape, before they had reached their own country, and had re-crossed +the mountains, when she expected to meet her own friends: but after +suffering all the hardships incident to such a journey, she had been +taken by a war-party of the people with whom she then was, who had +driven her relations from the river into the mountains. She had since +been detained by her present husband, of whom she had no cause to +complain; nevertheless she expressed a strong desire to return to her +own people. I presented her with several useful articles, and desired +her to come to me at the lodges, which she readily engaged to do. We +arrived thither before the Indians, and landed, as we had promised. It +was now near twelve at noon, but on attempting to take an altitude, I +found the angle too great for my sextant. + +The natives whom we had already seen, and several others, soon joined +us, with a greater number of women than I had yet seen; but I did not +observe the female prisoner among them. There were thirty-five of them, +and my remaining store of presents was not sufficient to enable me to be +very liberal to so many claimants. Among the men I found four of the +adjoining nation, and a Rocky-Mountain Indian, who had been with them +for some time. As he was understood by my interpreters, and was himself +well acquainted with the language of the strangers, I possessed the +means of obtaining every information respecting the country, which it +might be in their power to afford me. For this purpose I selected an +elderly man, from the four strangers, whose countenance had prepossessed +me in his favour. I stated to these people, as I had already done to +those from whom I had hitherto derived information, the objects of my +voyage, and the very great advantages which they would receive from my +successful termination of it. They expressed themselves very much +satisfied at my communication, and assured me that they would not +deceive me respecting the subject of my inquiry. An old man also, who +appeared to possess the character of a chief, declared his wish to see +me return to his land, and that his two young daughters should then be +at my disposal. I now proceeded to request the native, whom I had +particularly selected, to commence his information, by drawing a sketch +of the country upon a large piece of bark, and he immediately entered on +the work, frequently appealing to, and sometimes asking the advice of, +those around him. He described the river as running to the East of +South, receiving many rivers, and every six or eight leagues encumbered +with falls and rapids, some of which were very dangerous, and six of +them impracticable. The carrying-places he represented as of great +length, and passing over hills and mountains. He depicted the lands of +three other tribes, in succession, who spoke different languages. +Beyond them he knew nothing either of the river or country, only that it +was still a long way to the sea; and that, as he had heard, there was a +lake, before they reached the water, which the natives did not drink. +As far as his knowledge of the river extended, the country on either +side was level, in many places without wood and abounding in red deer, +and some of a small fallow kind. Few of the natives, he said, would +come to the banks for some time; but, that at a certain season they +would arrive there in great numbers, to fish. They now procured iron, +brass, copper, and trinkets, from the Westward; but formerly these +articles were obtained from the lower parts of the river, though in +small quantities. A knife was produced which had been brought from that +quarter. The blade was ten inches long, and an inch and a half broad, +but with a very blunted edge. The handle was of horn. We understood +that this instrument had been obtained from white men, long before they +had heard that any came to the Westward. One very old man observed, +that as long as he could remember, he was told of white people to the +Southward; and that he had heard, though he did not vouch for the truth +of the report, that one of them had made an attempt to come up the +river, and was destroyed. + +These people describe the distance across the country as very short to +the Western ocean; and, according to my own idea, it cannot be above +five or six degrees. If the assertion of Mr. Mears be correct, it +cannot be so far, as the inland sea which he mentions within Nootka, +must come as far East as 126. West longitude. They assured us that the +road was not difficult as they avoided the mountains, keeping along the +low lands between them, many parts of which are entirely free from wood. +According to their account, this way is so often travelled by them, that +their path is visible throughout the whole journey, which lies along +small lakes and rivers. It occupied them, they said, no more than six +nights, to go to where they meet the people who barter iron, brass, +copper, beads, &c., with them, for dressed leather, and beaver, bear, +lynx, fox, and marten skins. The iron is about eighteen inches of +two-inch bar. To this they give an edge at one end, and fix it to a +handle at right angles, which they employ as an axe. When the iron is +worn down, they fabricate it into points for their arrows and pikes. +Before they procured iron they employed bone and horn for those +purposes. The copper and brass they convert into collars, arm-buds, +bracelets, and other ornaments. They sometimes also point their arrows +with those metals. They had been informed by those whom they meet to +trade with, that the white people, from whom these articles are +obtained, were building houses at the distance of three days, or two +nights journey from the place where they met last fall. With this route +they all appeared to be well acquainted. + +I now requested that they would send for the female prisoner whom I saw +yesterday; but I received only vague and evasive answers. They probably +apprehended, that it was our design to take her from them. I was, +however, very much disappointed at being prevented from having an +interview with her, as she might have given me a correct account of the +country beyond the forks of the river, as well as of the pass, through +the mountains, from them. + +My people had listened with great attention to the relation which had +been given me, and it seemed to be their opinion, that it would be +absolute madness to attempt a passage through so many savage and +barbarous nations. My situation may indeed, be more easily conceived +than expressed: I had no more than thirty days provision remaining, +exclusive of such supplies as I might obtain from the natives, and the +toil of our hunters, which, however, was so precarious as to be matter +of little dependence: besides, our ammunition would soon be exhausted, +particularly our ball, of which we had not more than a hundred and +fifty, and about thirty pound weight of shot, which, indeed, might be +converted into bullets, though with great waste. + +The more I heard of the river, the more I was convinced it could not +empty itself into the ocean to the North of what is called the river of +the West, so that with its windings, the distance must be very great. +Such being the discouraging circumstances of my situation, which were +now heightened by the discontents of my people, I could not but be +alarmed at the idea of attempting to get to the discharge of such a +rapid river, especially when I reflected on the tardy progress of my +return up it, even if I should meet with no obstruction from the natives; +a circumstance not very probable, from the numbers of them which would +then be on the river, and whom I could have no opportunity of conciliating +in my passage down, for the reasons which have been already mentioned. At +all events, I must give up every expectation of returning this season to +Athabasca. Such were my reflections at this period; but instead of +continuing to indulge them, I determined to proceed with resolution, and +set future events at defiance. At the same time I suffered myself to +nourish the hope that I might be able to penetrate with more safety, and +in a shorter period, to the ocean by the inland western communication. + +To carry this project into execution I must have returned a considerable +distance up the river, which would necessarily be attended with very, +serious inconvenience, if I passed over every other; as in a voyage of +this kind, a retrograde motion could not fail to cool the ardour, +slacken the zeal and weaken the confidence of those, who have no greater +inducement to the undertaking, than to follow the conductor of it. Such +was the state of my mind at this period, and such the circumstances with +which it was distressed and distracted. + +To the people who had given me the foregoing information I presented +some beads, which they preferred to any other articles in my possession, +and I recompensed in the same manner two of them who communicated to me +the following vocabulary in the language of the Nagailer and Atnah +tribes. + + The Negailer or The Atnah, or + Carrier-Indians. Chin-Indians. + Eye, Nah, Thlouatin. + Hair, Thigah, Cahowdin. + Teeth, Gough, Chliough. + Nose, Nenzeh, Pisax. + Head, Thie, Scapacay. + Wood, Dekin, Shedzay. + Hand, Lah, Calietha. + Leg, Kin, Squacht. + Tongue, Thoula, Dewhasjiak. + Ear, Zach, Ithlinah. + Man, Dinay, Scuyloch. + Woman, Chiquoi, Smosledgenak. + Beaver, Zah, Schugh. + Elk, Yezey, Ookoy-Beh. + Dog, Sleing, Scacah. + Ground-hog, Thidnu, Squaisquais. + Iron, Thilisitch, Soucoumang. + Fire, Coun, Teuck. + Water, Tou, Shaweliquolih. + Stone, Zeh, Ishehoinah. + Bow, Nettuny, Isquoinah. + Arrow, Igah, Squailai. + Yes, Nesi, Amaig. + Plains, Thoughoud, Spilela. + Come here, Andezei, Thla-elyeh. + +[Transcriber's Note: 'Negailer', above, appears to be a transcription +error in this edition. Elsewhere it is rendered as 'Nagailer'] + +The Atnah language has no affinity to any with which I am acquainted; +but the Nagailer differs very little from that spoken by the Beaver +Indians, and is almost the same as that of the Chepewyans. + +We had a thunder-storm with heavy rain; and in the evening when it had +subsided, the Indians amused us with singing and dancing, in which they +were joined by the young women. Four men now arrived whom we had not +yet seen; they had left their families at some distance in the country, +and expressed a desire that we should visit them there. + + +_Sunday, 23._--After a restless night, I called the Indians together, +from whom I yesterday received the intelligence which has been already +mentioned, in the hope that I might obtain some additional information. +From their former account they did not make the least deviation; but +they informed me further, that where they left this river, a small one +from the Westward falls into it, which was navigable for their canoes +during four days, and from thence they slept but two nights, to get to +the people with whom they trade, and who have wooden canoes much larger +than ours, in which they go down a river to the sea. They continued to +inform me, that if I went that way we must leave our own canoe behind +us; but they thought it probable that those people would furnish us with +another. From thence they stated the distance to be only one day's +voyage with the current to the lake whose water is nauseous, and where +they had heard that great canoes came two winters ago, and that the +people belonging to them, brought great quantities of goods and built +houses. + +At the commencement of this conversation, I was very much surprised by +the following question from one of the Indians: "What," demanded he, +"can be the reason that you are so particular and anxious in your +inquiries of us respecting a knowledge of this country: do not you white +men know every thing in the world?" This interrogatory was so very +unexpected, that it occasioned some hesitation before I could answer it. +At length, however, I replied, that we certainly were acquainted with +the principal circumstances of every part of the world; that I knew +where the sea is, and where I myself then was, but that I did not +exactly understand what obstacles might interrupt me in getting to it; +with which, he and his relations must be well acquainted, as they had so +frequently surmounted them. Thus I fortunately preserved the impression +in their minds, of the superiority of white people over themselves. + +It was now, however, absolutely necessary that I should come to a final +determination which route to take; and no long interval of reflection +was employed, before I preferred to go over land: the comparative +shortness and security of such a journey, were alone sufficient to +determine me. I accordingly proposed to two of the Indians to accompany +me, and one of them readily assented to my proposition. + +I now called those of my people about me, who had not been present at my +consultation with the natives; and after passing a warm eulogium on +their fortitude, patience, and perseverance, I stated the difficulties +that threatened our continuing to navigate the river, the length of time +it would require, and the scanty provision we had for such a voyage: I +then proceeded for the foregoing reasons to propose a shorter route, by +trying the overland road to the sea. At the same time, as I knew from +experience, the difficulty of retaining guides, and as many +circumstances might occur to prevent our progress in that direction, I +declared my resolution not to attempt it, unless they would engage if we +could not after all proceed over land, to return with me, and continue +our voyage to the discharge of the waters, whatever the distance might +be. At all events, I declared, in the most solemn manner, that I would +not abandon my design of reaching the sea, if I made the attempt alone, +and that I did not despair of returning in safety to my friends. + +This proposition met with the most zealous return, and they unanimously +assured me, that they were as willing now as they had ever been, to +abide by my resolutions, whatever they might be, and to follow me +wherever I should go. I therefore requested them to prepare for an +immediate departure, and at the same time gave notice to the man who had +engaged to be our guide, to be in readiness to accompany us. When our +determination to return up the river was made known, several of the +natives took a very abrupt departure; but to those who remained, I gave +a few useful articles, explaining to them at the same time, the +advantages that would result to them, if their relations conducted me to +the sea, along such a road as they had described. I had already given a +moose skin to some of the women for the purpose of making shoes, which +were now brought us; they were well sewed but ill-shaped, and a few +beads were considered as a sufficient remuneration for the skill +employed on them, Mr. Mackay, by my desire, engraved my name, and the +date of the year on a tree. + +When we were ready to depart, our guide proposed, for the sake of +expedition, to go over land to his lodge, that he might get there before +us, to make some necessary preparation for his journey. I did not +altogether relish his design, but was obliged to consent: I thought it +prudent, however, to send Mr. Mackay, and the two Indians along with +him. Our place of rendezvous, was the subterraneous house which we +passed yesterday. + +At ten in the morning we embarked, and went up the current much faster +than I expected with such a crazy vessel as that which carried us. We +met our people at the house as had been appointed; but the Indian still +continued to prefer going on by land, and it would have been needless +for me to oppose him. He proceeded, therefore, with his former +companions, whom I desired to keep him in good humour by every +reasonable gratification. They were also furnished with a few articles +that might be of use if they should meet strangers. + +In a short time after we had left the house, I saw a wooden canoe coming +down the river, with three natives in it, who, as soon as they perceived +us, made for the shore, and hurried into the woods. On passing their +vessel, we discovered it to be one of those which we had seen at the +lodges. A severe gust of wind, with rain, came from the +South-South-East. This we found to be a very prevalent wind in these +parts. We soon passed another wooden canoe drawn stern foremost on the +shore; a circumstance which we had not hitherto observed. The men +worked very hard, and though I imagined we went a-head very fast, we +could not reach the lodges, but landed for the night at nine, close to +the encampment of two families of the natives whom we had formerly seen +at the lodges. I immediately went and sat down with them, when they +gave some roasted fish; two of my men who followed me were gratified +also with some of their provisions. The youngest of the two natives now +quitted the shed, and did not return during the time I remained there. +I endeavoured to explain to the other by signs, the cause of my sudden +return, which he appeared to understand. In the mean time my tent was +pitched, and on my going to it, I was rather surprised that he did not +follow me, as he had been constantly with me during the day and night I +had passed with his party on going down. We, however, went to rest in a +state of perfect security; nor had we the least apprehension for the +safety of our people who were gone by land. + +We were in our canoe by four this morning, and passed by the Indian hut, +which appeared in a state of perfect tranquillity. We soon came in +sight of the point where we first saw the natives, and at eight were +much surprised and disappointed at seeing Mr. Mackay, and our two +Indians coming alone from the ruins of a house that had been partly +carried away by the ice and water, at a short distance below the place +where we had appointed to meet. Nor was our surprise and apprehension +diminished by the alarm which was painted in their countenances. When +we had landed, they informed me that they had taken refuge in that +place, with the determination to sell their lives, which they considered +in the most imminent danger, as dear as possible. In a very short time +after they had left us, they met a party of the Indians, whom we had +known at this place, and were probably those whom we had seen to land +from their canoe. They appeared to be in a state of extreme rage, and +had their bows bent, with their arrows across them. The guide stopped +to ask them some questions, which my people did not understand, and then +set off with his utmost speed. Mr. Mackay, however, did not leave him +till they were both exhausted with running. When the young man came up, +he then said, that some treacherous design was meditated against them, +as he was induced to believe from the declaration of the natives, who +told him that they were going to do mischief, but refused to name the +enemy. The guide then conducted them through very bad ways, as fast as +they could run; and when he was desired to slacken his pace, he answered +that they might follow him in any manner they pleased, but that he was +impatient to get to his family, in order to prepare shoes, and other +necessaries, for his journey. They did not, however, think it prudent +to quit him, and he would not stop till ten at night. On passing a +track that was but lately made, they began to be seriously alarmed, and +on inquiring of the guide where they were, he pretended not to +understand them. They then all laid down, exhausted with fatigue, and +without any kind of covering: they were cold, wet, and hungry, but dared +not light a fire, from the apprehension of an enemy. This comfortless +spot they left at the dawn of the day, and, on their arrival at the +lodges, found them deserted; the property of the Indians being scattered +about, as if abandoned for ever. The guide then made two or three trips +into the woods, calling aloud, and bellowing like a madman. At length +he set off in the same direction as they came, and had not since +appeared. To heighten their misery, as they did not find us at the +place appointed, they concluded that we were all destroyed, and had +already formed their plan to take to the woods, and cross in as direct a +line as they could proceed, to the waters of the Peace River, a scheme +which could only be suggested by despair. They intended to have waited +for us till noon, and if we did not appear by that time, to have entered +without further delay on their desperate expedition. + +This alarm among the natives was a very unexpected as well as perilous +event, and my powers of conjecture were exhausted in searching for the +cause of it. A general panic seized all around me, and any further +prosecution of the voyage was now considered by them as altogether +hopeless and impracticable. But without paying the least attention to +their opinions or surmises, I ordered them to take every thing out of +the canoe, except six packages: when that was done, I left four men to +take care of the lading, and returned with the others to our camp of +last night, where I hoped to find the two men, with their families, whom +we had seen there, and to be able to bring them to lodge with us, when I +should wait the issue of this mysterious business. This project, +however, was disappointed, for these people had quitted their sheds in +the silence of the night, and had not taken a single article of their +little property with them. + +These perplexing circumstances made a deep impression on my mind, not as +to our immediate safety, for I entertained not the least apprehension +of the Indians I had hitherto seen, even if their whole force should +have been combined to attack us, but these untoward events seemed to +threaten the prosecution of my journey; and I could not reflect on +the possibility of such a disappointment but with sensations little +short of agony. Whatever might have been the wavering disposition of +the people on former occasions, they were now decided in their opinions +as to the necessity of returning without delay; and when we came back +to them, their cry was--"Let us re-embark, and be gone." This, however, +was not my design, and in a more peremptory tone than I usually employed, +they were ordered to unload the canoe, and take her out of the water. +On examining our property, several articles appeared to be missing, +which the Indians must have purloined; and among them were an axe, +two knives, and the young men's bag of medicines. We now took a position +that was the best calculated for defence, got our arms in complete order, +filled each man's flask of powder, and distributed an hundred bullets, +which were all that remained, while some were employed in melting down +shot to make more. The weather was so cloudy, that I had not an +opportunity of taking an observation. + +While we were employed in making these preparations, we saw an Indian in +a canoe come down the river, and land at the huts, which he began to +examine. On perceiving us he stood still, as if in a state of suspense, +when I instantly dispatched one of my Indians towards him, but no +persuasions could induce him to have confidence in us; he even +threatened that he would hasten to join his friends, who would come and +kill us. At the conclusion of this menace he disappeared. On the +return of my young man, with this account of the interview, I pretended +to discredit the whole, and attributed it to his own apprehensions and +alarms. This, however, he denied, and asked with a look and tone of +resentment, whether he had ever told me a lie? Though he was but a +young man, he said, he had been on war excursions before he came with +me, and that he should no longer consider me as a wise man, which he had +hitherto done. + +To add to our distresses we had not an ounce of gum for the reparation +of the canoe, and not one of the men had sufficient courage to venture +into the woods to collect it. In this perplexing situation I +entertained the hope that in the course of the night some of the natives +would return, to take away a part at least of the things which they had +left behind them, as they had gone away without the covering necessary +to defend them from the weather and the flies. I therefore ordered the +canoe to be loaded, and dropped to an old house, one side of which, with +its roof, had been carried away by the water; but the three remaining +angles were sufficient to shelter us from the woods. I then ordered two +strong piquets to be driven into the ground, to which the canoe was +fastened, so that if we were hard pressed we had only to step on board +and push off. We were under the necessity of making a smoke to keep off +the swarms of flies, which would have otherwise tormented us; but we did +not venture to excite a blaze, as it would have been a mark for the +arrows of the enemy. Mr. Mackay and myself, with three men kept +alternate watch, and allowed the Indians to do as they fancied. I took +the first watch, and the others laid down in their clothes by us. I +also placed a centinel at a small distance, who was relieved every hour. +The weather was cloudy, with showers of rain. + + +_Tuesday, 25._--At one I called up the other watch, and laid down to a +small portion of broken rest. At five I arose, and as the situation +which we left yesterday was preferable to that which we then occupied, I +determined to return to it. On our arrival Mr. Mackay informed me that +the men had expressed their dissatisfaction to him in a very unreserved +manner, and had in very strong terms declared their resolution to follow +me no further in my proposed enterprise. I did not appear, however, to +have received such communications from him, and continued to employ my +whole thoughts in contriving means to bring about a reconciliation with +the natives, which alone would enable me to procure guides, without +whose assistance it would be impossible for me to proceed, when my +darling project would end in disappointment. + +At twelve we saw a man coming with the stream upon a raft, and he must +have discovered us before we perceived him, as he was working very hard +to get to the opposite shore, where he soon landed, and instantly fled +into the woods. I now had a meridional altitude, which gave +60. 23. natural horizon (the angle being more than the sextant could +measure with the artificial horizon) one mile and a half distant; and +the eye five feet above the level of the water, gave 62. 47. 51. North +latitude. + +While I was thus employed, the men loaded the canoe, without having +received any orders from me, and as this was the first time they had +ventured to act in such a decided manner, I naturally concluded that +they had preconcerted a plan for their return. I thought it prudent, +however, to take no notice of this transaction, and to wait the issue of +future circumstances. At this moment our Indians perceived a person in +the edge of the woods above us, and they were immediately dispatched to +discover who it was. After a short absence they returned with a young +woman whom we had seen before: her language was not clearly comprehended +by us, so that we could not learn from her, at least with any degree of +certainty, the cause of this unfortunate alarm that had taken place +among the natives. She told us that her errand was to fetch some things +which she had left behind her; and one of the dogs whom we found here, +appeared to acknowledge her as his mistress. We treated her with great +kindness, gave her something to eat, and added a present of such +articles as we thought might please her. On her expressing a wish to +leave us, we readily consented to her departure, and indulged the hope +that her reception would induce the natives to return in peace, and give +us an opportunity to convince them, that we had no hostile designs +whatever against them. On leaving us, she went up the river, without +taking a single article of her own, and the dog followed. The wind was +changeable throughout the day, and there were several showers in the +course of it. + +Though a very apparent anxiety prevailed among the people for their +departure, I appeared to be wholly inattentive to it, and at eight in +the evening I ordered four men to step into the canoe, which had been +loaded for several hours, and drop down to our guard-house, and my +command was immediately obeyed: the rest of us proceeded there by land. +When I was yet at a considerable distance from the house, and thought it +impossible for an arrow to reach it, having a bow and quiver in my hand, +I very imprudently let fly an arrow, when, to my astonishment and +infinite alarm, I heard it strike a log of the house. The men who had +just landed, imagined that they were attacked by an enemy from the +woods. Their confusion was in proportion to their imaginary danger, and +on my arrival I found that the arrow had passed within a foot of one of +the men; though it had no point, the weapon, incredible as it may +appear, had entered an hard, dry log of wood upwards of an inch. But +this was not all: for the men readily availed themselves of this +circumstance, to remark upon the danger of remaining in the power of a +people possessed of such means of destruction. Mr. Mackay having the +first watch, I laid myself down in my cloak. + + +_Wednesday, 26._--At midnight a rustling noise was heard in the woods +which created a general alarm, and I was awakened to be informed of the +circumstance, but heard nothing. At one I took my turn of the watch, +and our dog continued unceasingly to run backwards and forwards along +the skirts of the wood in a state of restless vigilance. At two in the +morning the centinel informed me, that he saw something like an human +figure creeping along on all-fours about fifty paces above us. After +some time had passed in our search, I at length discovered that his +information was true, and it appeared to me that a bear had occasioned +the alarm; but when day appeared, it proved to be an old, grey-haired, +blind man, who had been compelled to leave his hiding-place by extreme +hunger, being too infirm to join in the flight of the natives to whom he +belonged. When I put my hand on this object of decaying nature, his +alarm was so great, that I expected it would have thrown him into +convulsions. I immediately led him to our fire which had been just +lighted, and gave him something to eat, which he much wanted, as he had +not tasted food for two days. When his hunger was satisfied, and he had +got warm and composed, I requested him to acquaint me with the cause of +that alarm which had taken place respecting us among his relations and +friends, whose regard we appeared to have conciliated but a few days +past. He replied, that very soon after we had left them, some natives +arrived from above, who informed them that we were enemies; and our +unexpected return, in direct contradiction to our own declarations, +confirmed them in that opinion. They were now, he said, so scattered, +that a considerable time would elapse, before they could meet again. We +gave him the real history of our return, as well as of the desertion of +our guide, and, at the same time, stated the impossibility of our +proceeding, unless we procured a native to conduct us. He replied, that +if he had not lost his sight, he would with the greatest readiness have +accompanied us on our journey. He also confirmed the accounts which we +had received of the country, and the route to the Westward. I did not +neglect to employ every argument in my power, that he might be persuaded +of our friendly dispositions to the inhabitants wheresoever we might +meet them. + +At sun-rise we perceived a canoe with one man in it on the opposite side +of the river, and at our request, the blind man called to him to come to +us, but he returned no answer, and continued his course as fast as he +could paddle down the current. He was considered as a spy by my men, +and I was confirmed in that opinion, when I saw a wooden canoe drifting +with the stream close in to the other shore, where it was more than +probable that some of the natives might be concealed. It might, +therefore, have been an useless enterprise, or perhaps fatal to the +future success of our undertaking, if we had pursued these people, as +they might, through fear have employed their arms against us, and +provoked us to retaliate. + +The old man informed me, that some of the natives whom I had seen here +were gone up the river, and those whom I saw below had left their late +station to gather a root in the plains, which, when dried, forms a +considerable article in their winter stock of provisions. He had a +woman, he said, with him, who used to see us walking along the small +adjoining river, but when he called her he received no answer, so that +she had probably fled to join her people. He informed me, also, that he +expected a considerable number of his tribe to come on the upper part of +the river to catch fish for their present support, and to cure them for +their winter store; among whom he had a son and two brothers. + +In consequence of these communications, I deemed it altogether +unnecessary to lose any more time at this place, and I informed the old +man that he must accompany me for the purpose of introducing us to his +friends and relations, and that if we met with his son or brothers, I +depended upon him to persuade them, or some of their party, to attend us +as guides in our meditated expedition. He expressed his wishes to be +excused from this service, and in other circumstances we should not have +insisted on it, but, situated as we were, we could not yield to his +request. + +At seven in the morning we left this place, which I named Deserter's +River or Creek. Our blind guide was, however, so averse to continuing +with us, that I was under the very disagreeable necessity of ordering +the men to carry him into the canoe; and this was the first act during +my voyage, that had the semblance of violent dealing. He continued to +speak in a very loud tone, while he remained, according to his +conjecture, near enough to the camp to be heard, but in a language that +our interpreters did not understand. On asking him what he said, and +why he did not speak in a language known to us, he replied, that the +woman understood him better in that which he spoke, and he requested +her, if she heard him, to come for him to the carrying-place, where he +expected we should leave him. + +At length our canoe was become so leaky, that it was absolutely unfit +for service; and it was the unremitting employment of one person to keep +her clear of water: we, therefore, inquired of the old man where we +could conveniently obtain the articles necessary to build a new one; and +we understood from him that, at some distance up the river, we should +find plenty of bark and cedar. + +At ten, being at the foot of a rapid, we saw a small canoe coming down +with two men in it. We thought it would be impossible for them to +escape, and therefore struck off from the shore with a design to +intercept them, directing the old man at the same time to address them; +but they no sooner perceived us, than they steered into the strength of +the current, where I thought that they must inevitably perish; but their +attention appeared to be engrossed by the situation of their canoe, and +they escaped without making us the least reply. + +About three in the afternoon we perceived a lodge at the entrance of a +considerable river on the right, as well as the tracks of people in the +mud at the mouth of a small river on the left. As they appeared to be +fresh, we landed, and endeavoured to trace them, but without success. +We then crossed over to the lodge, which was deserted, but all the usual +furniture of such buildings remained untouched. + +Throughout the whole of this day the men had been in a state of extreme +ill-humour, and as they did not choose openly to vent it upon me, they +disputed and quarrelled among themselves. About sun-set the canoe +struck upon the stump of a tree, which broke a large hole in her bottom; +a circumstance that gave them an opportunity to let loose their +discontents without reserve. I left them as soon as we had landed, and +ascended an elevated bank, in a state of mind which I scarce wish to +recollect, and shall not attempt to describe. At this place there was a +subterraneous house, where I determined to pass the night. The water +had risen since we had passed down, and it was with the utmost exertion +that we came up several points in the course of the day. + +We embarked at half past four, with very favourable weather, and at +eight we landed, where there was an appearance of our being able to +procure bark; we, however, obtained but a small quantity. At twelve we +went on shore again, and collected as much as was necessary for our +purpose. It now remained for us to fix on a proper place for building +another canoe, as it was impossible to proceed with our old one, which +was become an absolute wreck. At five in the afternoon we came to a +spot well adapted to the business in which we were about to engage. It +was on a small island not much encumbered with wood, though there was +plenty of the spruce kind on the opposite land, which was only divided +from us by a small channel. We now landed, but before the canoe was +unloaded, and the tent pitched, a violent thunder-storm came on, +accompanied with rain, which did not subside till the night had closed +in upon us. Two of our men who had been in the woods for axe-handles, +saw a deer, and one of them shot at it, but unluckily missed his aim. A +net was also prepared and set in the eddy at the end of the island. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +JUNE, 1793. + +_Friday, 28._--At a very early hour of the morning every man was +employed in making preparations for building another canoe, and +different parties went in search of wood, watape, and gum. At two in +the afternoon they all returned successful, except the collectors of +gum, and of that article it was feared we should not obtain here a +sufficient supply for our immediate wants. After a necessary portion of +time allotted for refreshment, each began his respective work. I had an +altitude at noon, which made us in 53. 2. 32. North latitude. + + +_Saturday, 29._--The weather continued to be fine. At five o'clock we +renewed our labour, and the canoe was got in a state of considerable +forwardness. The conductor of the work, though a good man, was +remarkable for the tardiness of his operations, whatever they might be, +and more disposed to eat than to be active; I therefore took this +opportunity of unfolding my sentiments to him, and thereby discovering +to all around me the real state of my mind, and the resolutions I had +formed for my future conduct. After reproaching him for his general +inactivity, but particularly on the present occasion, when our time was +so precious, I mentioned the apparent want of economy, both of himself +and his companions, in the article of provisions. I informed him that I +was not altogether a stranger to their late conversations, from whence I +drew the conclusion that they wished to put an end to the voyage. If +that were so, I expressed my wish that they would be explicit, and tell +me at once of their determination to follow me no longer. I concluded, +however, by assuring him, that whatever plan they had meditated to +pursue, it was my fixed and unalterable determination to proceed, in +spite of every difficulty that might oppose, or danger that should +threaten me. The man was very much mortified at my addressing this +remonstrance particularly to him; and replied that he did not deserve my +displeasure more than the rest of them. My object being answered, the +conversation dropped, and the work went on. + +About two in the afternoon one of the men perceived a canoe with two +natives in it, coming along the inside of the island, but the water +being shallow, it turned back, and we imagined that on perceiving us +they had taken the alarm; but we were agreeably surprised on seeing them +come up the outside of the island, when we recognised our guide, and one +of the natives whom we had already seen; The former began immediately to +apologize for his conduct, and assured me that since he had left me, his +whole time had been employed in searching after his family, who had been +seized with the general panic, that had been occasioned by the false +reports of the people who had first fled from us. He said it was +generally apprehended by the natives, that we had been unfriendly to +their relations above, who were expected upon the river in great numbers +at this time: and that many of the Atnah or Chin nation, had come up the +river to where we had been, in the hope of seeing us, and were very much +displeased with him and his friends for having neglected to give them an +early notice of our arrival there. He added, that the two men whom we +had seen yesterday, or the day before, were just returned from their +rendezvous, with the natives of the sea coast, and had brought a message +from his brother-in-law, that he had a new axe for him, and not to +forget to bring a moose-skin dressed in exchange, which he actually had +in his canoe. He expected to meet him, he said, at the other end of the +carrying-place. + +This was as pleasing intelligence as we had reason to expect, and it is +almost superfluous to observe that we stood in great need of it. I had +a meridian altitude, which gave 53. 3. 7. North latitude. I also took +time in the fore and afternoon, that gave a mean of 1. 37. 42. +Achrometer slow apparent time, which, with an observed immersion of +Jupiter's first satellite, made our longitude 122. 48. West of +Greenwich. + +The blind old man gave a very favourable account of us to his friends, +and they all three were very merry together during the whole of the +afternoon. That our guide, however, might not escape from us during the +night, I determined to set a watch upon him. + + +_Sunday, 30._--Our strangers conducted themselves with great good +humour throughout the day. According to their information, we should +find their friends above and below the carrying-place. They mentioned, +also, that some of them were not of their tribe, but are allied to the +people of the sea coast, who trade with the white men. I had a meridian +altitude, that gave 53. 3. 17. North latitude. + +JULY. _Monday, 1._--Last night I had the first watch, when one of my +Indians proposed to sit up with me, as he understood, from the old man's +conversation, that he intended, in the course of the night, to make his +escape. Accordingly, at eleven I extinguished my light, and sat quietly +in my tent, from whence I could observe the motions of the natives. +About twelve, though the night was rather dark, I observed the old man +creeping on his hands and knees towards the water-side. We accordingly +followed him very quietly to the canoe, and he would have gone away with +it, if he had not been interrupted in his design. On upbraiding him for +his treacherous conduct, when he had been treated with so much kindness +by us, he denied the intention of which we accused him, and declared +that his sole object was to assuage his thirst. At length, however, he +acknowledged the truth, and when we brought him to the fire, his +friends, who now awoke, on being informed of what had passed, reprobated +his conduct, and asked him how he could expect that the white people +would return to this country, if they experienced such ungrateful +treatment. The guide said, for his part, he was not a woman, and would +never run away through fear. But notwithstanding this courageous +declaration, at once I awakened Mr. Mackay, related to him what had +passed, and requested him not to indulge himself in sleep, till I should +rise. It was seven before I awoke, and on quitting my tent I was +surprised at not seeing the guide and his companion, and my +apprehensions were increased when I observed that the canoe was removed +from its late situation. To my inquiries after them, some of the men +very composedly answered that they were gone up the river, and had left +the old man behind them. Mr. Mackay also told me, that while he was +busily employed on the canoe, they had got to the point before he had +observed their departure. The interpreter now informed me that at the +dawn of day the guide had expressed his design, as soon as the sun was +up, to go and wait for us, where he might find his friends. I hoped +this might be true; but that my people should suffer them to depart +without giving me notice, was a circumstance that awakened very painful +reflections in my breast. The weather was clear in the forenoon. My +observation this day gave 53. 8. 82. North latitude. + +At five in the afternoon our vessel was completed, and ready for +service. She proved a stronger and better boat than the old one, though +had it not been for the gum obtained from the latter, it would have been +a matter of great difficulty to have procured a sufficiency of that +article to have prevented her from leaking. The remainder of the day +was employed by the people in cleaning and refreshing themselves, as +they had enjoyed no relaxation from their labour since we landed on this +spot. + +The old man having manifested for various and probably very fallacious +reasons, a very great aversion to accompany us any further, it did not +appear that there was any necessity to force his inclination. We now +put our arms in order, which was soon accomplished, as they were at all +times a general object of attention. + + +_Tuesday, 2._--It rained throughout the night, but at half past three +we were ready to embark, when I offered to conduct the old man where he +had supposed we should meet his friends, but he declined the +proposition. I therefore directed a few pounds of pemmican to be left +with him, for his immediate support, and took leave of him and the +place, which I named Canoe Island. During our stay there we had been +most cruelly tormented by flies, particularly the sand-fly, which I am +disposed to consider as the most tormenting insect of its size in +nature. I was also compelled to put the people upon short allowance, +and confine them to two meals a day, a regulation peculiarly offensive +to a Canadian voyager. One of these meals was composed of the dried +rows of fish, pounded, and boiled in water, thickened with a small +quantity of flour, and fattened with a bit of grian. These articles, +being brought to the consistency of an hasty pudding, produced a +substantial and not unpleasant dish. The natives are very careful of +the rows of fish, which they dry, and preserve in baskets made of bark. +Those we used were found in the huts of the first people who fled from +us. During our abode in Canoe Island, the water sunk three +perpendicular feet. I now gave the men a dram each, which could not but +be considered, at this time, as a very comfortable treat. They were, +indeed, in high spirits, when they perceived the superior excellence of +the new vessel, and reflected that it was the work of their own hands. + +[Transcriber's Note: The word 'grian' above is printed thus in this, +and other, editions.] + +At eleven we arrived at the rapids, and the foreman, who had not +forgotten the fright he suffered on coming down it, proposed that the +canoe and lading should be carried over the mountain. I threatened him +with taking the office of foreman on myself, and suggested the evident +change there was in the appearance of the water since we passed it, +which upon examination had sunk four feet and an half. As the water did +not seem so strong on the West side, I determined to cross over, having +first put Mr. Mackay, and our two hunters, on shore, to try the woods +for game. We accordingly traversed, and got up close along the rocks, +to a considerable distance, with the paddles, when we could proceed no +further without assistance from the line; and to draw it across a +perpendicular rock, for the distance of fifty fathoms, appeared to be an +insurmountable obstacle. The general opinion was to return, and carry +on the other side; I desired, however, two of the men to take the line, +which was seventy fathoms in length, with a small roll of bark, and +endeavour to climb up the rocks, from whence they were to descend on the +other side of that which opposed our progress; they were then to fasten +the end of the line to the roll of bark, which the current would bring +to us; this being effected, they would be able to draw us up. This was +an enterprise of difficulty and danger, but it was crowned with success; +though to get to the water's edge above, the men were obliged to let +themselves down with the line, run round a tree, from the summit of the +rock. By a repetition of the same operation, we at length cleared the +rapid, with the additional trouble of carrying the canoe, and unloading +at two cascades. We were not more than two hours getting up this +difficult part of the river, including the time employed in repairing an +hole which had been broken in the canoe, by the negligence of the +steersman. + +Here we expected to meet with the natives, but there was not the least +appearance of them, except that the guide, his companion, and two +others, had apparently passed the carrying-place. We saw several fish +leap out of the water, which appeared to be of the salmon kind. The old +man, indeed, had informed us that this was the season when the large +fish begin to come up the river. Our hunters returned, but had not seen +the track of any animal. We now continued our journey; the current was +not strong, but we met with frequent impediments from the fallen trees, +which lay along the banks. We landed at eight in the evening; and +suffered indescribable inconveniences from the flies. + + +_Wednesday, 3._--It had rained hard in the night, and there was some +small rain in the morning. At four we entered our canoe, and at ten we +came to a small river, which answered to the description of that whose +course the natives said, they follow in their journies towards the sea +coast; we therefore put into it, and endeavoured to discover if our +guide had landed here; but there were no traces of him or of any others. +My former perplexities were now renewed. If I passed this river, it was +probable that I might miss the natives; and I had reason to suspect that +my men would not consent to return thither. As for attempting the +woods, without a guide, to introduce us to the first inhabitants, such a +determination would be little short of absolute madness. At length, +after much painful reflection, I resolved to come at once to a full +explanation with my people, and I experienced a considerable relief from +this resolution. Accordingly, after repeating the promise they had so +lately made me, on our putting back up the river, I represented to them +that this appeared to me to be the spot from which the natives took +their departure for the sea coast, and added, withal, that I was +determined to try it: for though our guide had left us, it was possible +that, while we were making the necessary preparations, he or some others +might appear, to relieve us from our present difficulties. I now found, +to my great satisfaction, that they had not come to any fixed +determination among themselves, as some of them immediately assented to +undertake the woods with me. Others, however, suggested that it might +be better to proceed a few leagues further up the river, in expectation +of finding our guide, or procuring another, and that after all we might +return hither. This plan I very readily agreed to adopt, but before I +left this place, to which I gave the name of the West-Road River, I sent +some of the men into the woods, in different directions, and went some +distance up the river myself, which I found to be navigable only for +small canoes. Two of the men found a good beaten path, leading up a +hill just behind us, which I imagined to be the great road. + +At four in the afternoon we left this place, proceeding up the river; +and had not been upon the water more than three quarters of an hour, +when we saw two canoes coming with the stream. No sooner did the people +in them perceive us than they landed, and we went on shore at the same +place with them. They proved to be our guide, and six of his relations. +He was covered with a painted beaver robe, so that we scarcely knew him +in his fine habiliment. He instantly desired us to acknowledge that he +had not disappointed us, and declared, at the same time, that it was his +constant intention to keep his word. I accordingly gave him a jacket, a +pair of trowsers, and a handkerchief, as a reward for his honourable +conduct. The strangers examined us with the most minute attention, and +two of them, as I was now informed, belonged to the people whom we first +saw, and who fled with so much alarm from us. They told me, also, that +they were so terrified on that occasion, as not to approach their huts +for two days; and that when they ventured thither, they found the +greater part of their property destroyed, by the fire running in the +ground. According to their account, they were of a different tribe, +though I found no difference in their language from that of the Nagailas +or Carriers. They are called Nascud Denee. Their lodges were at some +distance, on a small lake, where they take fish, and if our guide had +not gone for them there, we should not have seen a human being on the +river. They informed me that the road by their habitation is the +shortest, and they proposed that we should take it. + + +_Thursday, 4._--At an early hour this morning, and at the suggestion +of our guide, we proceeded to the landing-place that leads to the +strangers' lodges. Our great difficulty here was to procure a temporary +separation from our company, in order to hide some articles we could not +carry with us, and which it would have been imprudent to leave in the +power of the natives. Accordingly Mr. Mackay, and one of our Indians +embarked with them, and soon run out of our sight. At our first +hiding-place we left a bag of pemmican, weighing ninety pounds, two bags +of wild rice, and a gallon keg of gunpowder. Previous to our putting +these articles in the ground, we rolled them up in oilcloth, and dressed +leather. In the second hiding-place, and guarded with the same rollers, +we hid two bags of Indian corn, or maize, and a bale of different +articles of merchandise. When we had completed this important object, +we proceeded till half past eight, when we landed at the entrance of a +small rivulet, where our friends were waiting for us. + +Here it was necessary that we should leave our canoe, and whatever we +could not carry on our backs. In the first place, therefore, we +prepared a stage, on which the canoe was placed bottom upwards, and +shaded by a covering of small trees and branches, to keep her from the +sun. We then built an oblong hollow square, ten feet by five, of green +logs, wherein we placed every article it was necessary for us to leave +here, and covered the whole with large pieces of timber. + +While we were eagerly employed in this necessary business, our guide and +his companions were so impatient to be gone, that we could not persuade +the former to wait till we were prepared for our departure, and we had +some difficulty in persuading another of the natives to remain, who had +undertook to conduct us where the guide had promised to wait our +arrival. + +At noon we were in a state of preparation to enter the woods, an +undertaking of which I shall not here give any preliminary opinion, but +leave those who read it to judge for themselves. + +We carried on our backs four bags and a half of pemmican, weighing from +eighty-five to ninety pounds each; a case with my instruments, a parcel +of goods for presents, weighing ninety pounds, and a parcel containing +ammunition of the same weight. Each of the Canadians had a burden of +about ninety pounds, with a gun, and some ammunition. The Indians had +about forty-five pounds weight of pemmican to carry, besides their gun, +&c., with which they were very much dissatisfied, and if they had dared +would have instantly left us. They had hitherto been very much +indulged, but the moment was now arrived, when indulgence was no longer +practicable. My own load, and that of Mr. Mackay, consisted of +twenty-two pounds of pemmican, some rice, a little sugar, &c., amounting +in the whole to about seventy pounds each, besides our arms and +ammunition. I had also the tube of my telescope swung across my +shoulder, which was a troublesome addition to my burthen. It was +determined that we should content ourselves with two meals a day, which +were regulated without difficulty, as our provisions did not require the +ceremony of cooking. + +In this state of equipment we began our journey, as I have already +mentioned, about twelve at noon, the commencement of which was a steep +ascent of about a mile; it lay along a well-beaten path, but the country +through which it led was rugged and ridgy, and full of wood. When we +were in a state of extreme heat, from the toil of our journey, the rain +came on, and continued till evening, and even when it ceased, the +underwood continued its drippings upon us. + +About half past six we arrived at an Indian camp of three fires, where +we found our guide, and on his recommendation we determined to remain +there for the night. The computed distance of this day's journey was +about twelve geographical miles; the course about West. + +At sun-set, an elderly man and three other natives joined us from the +Westward. The former bore a lance, which very much resembled a +serjeant's halberd. He had lately received it, by way of barter, from +the natives of the Sea-Coast, who procured it from the white men. We +should meet, he said, with many of his countrymen, who had just returned +from thence. According to his report, it did not require more than six +days' journey, for people who are not heavily laden, to reach the +country of those with whom they bartered their skins for iron, &c., and +from thence it is not quite two days' march to the sea. They proposed +to send two young men on before us, to notify to the different tribes +that we were approaching, that they might not be surprised at our +appearance, and be disposed to afford us a friendly reception. This was +a measure which I could not but approve, and endeavoured by some small +presents to prepossess our couriers in our favour. + +These people live but poorly at this season, and I could procure no +provision from them, but a few small, dried fish, as I think, of the +carp kind. They had several European articles; and one of them had a +strip of fur, which appeared to me to be of the sea otter. He obtained +it from the natives of the coast, and exchanged it with me for some +beads and a brass cross. + +We retired to rest in as much security as if we had been long habituated +to a confidence in our present associates: indeed, we had no +alternative; for so great were the fatigues of the day in our mode of +travelling, that we were in great need of rest at night. + + +_Friday, 5._--We had no sooner laid ourselves down to rest last night, +than the natives began to sing, in a manner very different from what I +had been accustomed to hear among savages. It was not accompanied +either with dancing, drum, or rattle; but consisted of soft plaintive +tones, and a modulation that was rather agreeable: it had somewhat the +air of church music. As the natives had requested me not to quit them +at a very early hour in the morning, it was five before I desired that +the young men, who were to proceed with us, should depart, when they +prepared to set off: but on calling to our guide to conduct us, he said +that he did not intend to accompany us any further; as the young men +would answer our purpose as well as himself. I knew it would be in vain +to remonstrate with him, and therefore submitted to his caprice without +a reply. However, I thought proper to inform him, that one of my people +had lost his dag or poignard, and requested his assistance in the +recovery of it. He asked me what I would give him to conjure it back +again; and a knife was agreed to be the price of his necromantic +exertions. Accordingly, all the dags and knives in the place were +gathered together, and the natives formed a circle round them; the +conjurer also remaining in the middle. When this part of the ceremony +was arranged, he began to sing, the rest joining in the chorus; and +after some time he produced the poignard, which was stuck in the ground, +and returned it to me. + +At seven we were ready to depart; when I was surprised to hear our late +guide propose, without any solicitation on our part, to resume his +office; and he actually conducted us as far as a small lake, where we +found an encampment of three families. The young men who had undertaken +to conduct us, were not well understood by my interpreters, who +continued to be so displeased with their journey, that they performed +this part of their duty with great reluctance. I endeavoured to +persuade an elderly man of this encampment to accompany us to the next +tribe, but no inducement of mine could prevail on him to comply with my +wishes. I was, therefore, obliged to content myself with the guides I +had already engaged, for whom we were obliged to wait some time, till +they had provided shoes for their journey. I exchanged two halfpence +here, one of his present Majesty, and the other of the State of +Massachusett's Bay, coined in 1787. They hung as ornaments in +children's ears. + +My situation here was rendered rather unpleasant by the treatment which +my hunters received from these people. The former, it appeared, were +considered as belonging to a tribe who inhabit the mountains, and are +the natural enemies of the latter. We had also been told by one of the +natives, of a very stern aspect, that he had been stabbed by a relation +of theirs, and pointed to a scar as the proof of it. I was, therefore, +very glad to proceed on my journey. + +Our guides conducted us along the lake through thick woods, and without +any path, for about a mile and a half, when we lost sight of it. This +piece of water is about three miles long and one broad. We then crossed +a creek and entered upon a beaten track, through an open country, +sprinkled with cyprus trees. At twelve the sky became black, and a +heavy gust with rain shortly followed, which continued for upwards of an +hour. When we perceived the approaching storm, we fixed our thin light +oil-cloth to screen us from it. On renewing our march, as the bushes +were very wet, I desired our guides, they having no burdens, to walk in +front and beat them as they went: this task they chose to decline, and +accordingly I undertook it. Our road now lay along a lake, and across a +creek that ran into it. The guides informed me, that this part of the +country abounds in beaver: many traps were seen along the road, which +had been set for lynxes and martens. About a quarter of a mile from the +place where we had been stopped by the rain, the ground was covered with +hail, and as we advanced, the hailstones increased in size, some of them +being as big as musket-balls. In this manner was the ground whitened +for upwards of two miles. At five in the afternoon we arrived on the +banks of another lake, when it again threatened rain; and we had already +been sufficiently wetted in the course of the day, to look with +complacency towards a repetition of it: we accordingly fixed our shed, +the rain continuing with great violence through the remainder of the +day: it was therefore determined, that we should stop here for the +night. + +In the course of the day we passed three winter huts; they consisted of +low walls, with a ridge pole, covered with the branches of the Canadian +balsam-tree. One of my men had a violent pain in his knee, and I asked +the guides to take a share of his burden, as they had nothing to carry +but their beaver robes, and bows and arrows, but they could not be made +to understand a word of my request. + + +_Saturday, 6._--At four this morning I arose from my bed, such as it +was. As we must have been in a most unfortunate predicament, if our +guides should have deserted us in the night, by way of security, I +proposed to the youngest of them to sleep with me, and he readily +consented. These people have no covering but their beaver garments, and +that of my companions was a nest of vermin. I, however, spread it under +us, and having laid down upon it, we covered ourselves with my camblet +cloak. My companion's hair being greased with fish-oil, and his body +smeared with red earth, my sense of smelling as well as that of feeling, +threatened to interrupt my rest; but these inconveniences yielded to my +fatigue, and I passed a night of sound repose. + +I took the lead in our march, as I had done yesterday, in order to clear +the branches of the wet which continued to hang upon them. We proceeded +with all possible expedition through a level country with but little +underwood; the larger trees were of the fir kind. At half past eight we +fell upon the road, which we first intended to have taken from the Great +River, and must be shorter than that which we had travelled. The +West-road river was also in sight, winding through a valley. We had not +met with any water since our encampment of last night, and though we +were afflicted with violent thirst, the river was at such a distance +from us, and the descent to it so long and steep, that we were compelled +to be satisfied with casting our longing looks towards it. There +appeared to be more water in the river here, than at its discharge. The +Indian account, that it is navigable for their canoes, is, I believe, +perfectly correct. + +Our guides now told us, that as the road was very good and well traced, +they would proceed to inform the next tribe that we were coming. This +information was of a very unpleasant nature; as it would have been easy +for them to turn off the road at an hundred yards from us, and, when we +had passed them, to return home. I proposed that one of them should +remain with us, while two of my people should leave their loads behind +and accompany the other to the lodges. But they would not stay to hear +our persuasions, and were soon out of sight. + +I now desired the Cancre to leave his burden, take a small quantity of +provision, with his arms and blanket, and follow me. I also told my men +to come on as fast as they could, and that I would wait for them as soon +as I had formed an acquaintance with the natives of the country before +us. We accordingly followed our guides with all the expedition in our +power, but did not overtake them till we came to a family of natives, +consisting of one man, two women, and six children, with whom we found +them. These people betrayed no signs of fear at our appearance, and the +man willingly conversed with my interpreter, to whom he made himself +more intelligible, than our guides had been able to do. They, however, +had informed him of the object of our journey. He pointed out to us one +of his wives, who was a native of the sea coast, which was not a very +great distance from us. This woman was more inclined to corpulency than +any we had yet seen, was of low stature, with an oblong face, grey eyes, +and a flattish nose. She was decorated with ornaments of various kinds, +such as large blue beads, either pendant from her ears, encircling her +neck, or braided in her hair: she also wore bracelets of brass, copper, +and horn. Her garments consisted of a kind of tunic, which was covered +with a robe of matted bark, fringed round the bottom with skin of the +sea otter. None of the women whom I had seen since we crossed the +mountain wore this kind of tunic; their blankets being merely girt round +the waist. She had learned the language of her husband's tribe, and +confirmed his account, that we were at no great distance from the sea. +They were on their way, she said, to the great river to fish. Age +seemed to be an object of great veneration among these people, for they +carried an old woman by turns on their backs who was quite blind and +infirm from the very advanced period of her life. + +Our people having joined us and rested themselves, I requested our +guides to proceed, when the elder of them told me that he should not go +any further, but that these people would send a boy to accompany his +brother, and I began to think myself rather fortunate, that we were not +deserted by them all. + +About noon we parted, and in two hours we came up with two men and their +families: when we first saw them they were sitting down, as if to rest +themselves; but no sooner did they perceive us than they rose up and +seized their arms.--The boys who were behind us immediately ran +forwards and spoke to them, when they laid by their arms and received us +as friends. They had been eating green berries and dried fish We had, +indeed, scarcely joined them, when a woman and a boy came from the river +with water, which they very hospitably gave us to drink. The people of +this party had a very sickly appearance, which might have been the +consequence of disease, or that indolence which is so natural to them, +or of both. One of the women had a tattooed line along the chin, of the +same length of her mouth. + +The lads now informed me that they would go no further, but that these +men would take their places; and they parted from their families with as +little apparent concern, as if they were entire strangers to each other. +One of them was very well understood by my interpreter, and had resided +among the natives of the sea coast, whom he had left but a short time. +According to his information, we were approaching a river, which was +neither large nor long, but whose banks were inhabited; and that in the +bay which the sea forms at the mouth of it, a great wooden canoe, with +white people, arrives about the time when the leaves begin to grow; I +presume in the early part of May. + +After we parted with the last people, we came to an uneven, hilly, +swampy country, through which our way was impeded by a considerable +number of fallen trees. At five in the afternoon we were overtaken by a +heavy shower of rain and hail, and being at the same time very much +fatigued, we encamped for the night near a small creek. Our course till +we came to the river, was about South-West ten miles, and then West, +twelve or fourteen miles. I thought it prudent, by way of security, to +submit to the same inconveniences I have already described, and shared +the beaver robe of one of my guides during the night. + + +_Sunday, 7._--I was so busily employed in collecting intelligence from +our conductors, that I last night forgot to wind up my timepiece, and it +was the only instance of such an act of negligence since I left Fort +Chepewyan on the 11th of last October. At five we quitted our station, +and proceeded across two mountains, covered with spruce, poplar, +white-birch, and other trees. We then descended into a level country, +where we found a good road, through woods of cypress. We then came to +two small lakes, at the distance of about fourteen miles. Course about +West. Through them the river passes, and our road kept in a parallel +line with it on a range of elevated ground. On observing some people +before us, our guides hastened to meet them, and, on their approach, one +of them stepped forward with an axe in his hand. This party consisted +only of a man, two women, and the same number of children. The eldest +of the women, who probably was the man's mother, was engaged, when we +joined them, in clearing a circular spot, of about five feet in +diameter, of the weeds that infested it; nor did our arrival interrupt +her employment, which was sacred to the memory of the dead. The spot to +which her pious care was devoted, contained the grave of an husband, and +a son, and whenever she passed this way, she always stopped to pay this +tribute of affection. + +As soon as we had taken our morning allowance, we set forwards, and +about three we perceived more people before us. After some alarm we +came up with them. They consisted of seven men, as many women, and +several children. Here I was under the necessity of procuring another +guide, and we continued our route on the same side of the river, till +six in the evening, when we crossed it. It was knee deep, and about an +hundred yards over. I wished now to stop for the night, as we were all +of us very much fatigued, but our guide recommended us to proceed +onwards to a family of his friends, at a small distance from thence, +where we arrived at half past seven. He had gone forward, and procured +us a welcome and quiet reception. There being a net hanging to dry, I +requested the man to prepare and set it in the water, which he did with +great expedition, and then presented me with a few small dried fish. +Our course was South-West about twelve miles, part of which was an +extensive swamp, that was seldom less than knee deep. In the course of +the afternoon we had several showers of rain: I had attempted to take an +altitude, but it was past meridian. The water of the river before the +lodge was quite still, and expanded itself the form of a small lake. In +many other places, indeed, it had assumed the same form. + + +_Monday, 8._--It rained throughout the night, and it was seven in the +morning before the weather would allow us to proceed. The guide brought +me five small boiled fish, in a platter made of bark; some of them were +of the carp kind, and the rest of a species for which I am not qualified +to furnish a name. Having dried our clothes, we set off on our march +about eight, and our guide very cheerfully continued to accompany us; +but he was not altogether so intelligible as his predecessors in our +service. We learned from him, however, that this lake, through which +the river passes, extends to the foot of the mountain, and that he +expected to meet nine men, of a tribe which inhabits the North side of +the river. + +In this part of our journey we were surprised with the appearance of +several regular basons, some of them furnished with water, and the +others empty; their slope from the edge to the bottom formed an angle of +about forty-five degrees, and their perpendicular depth was about twelve +feet. Those that contained water, discovered gravel near their edges, +while the empty ones were covered with grass and herbs, among which we +discovered mustard, and mint. There were also several places from +whence the water appears to have retired, which are covered with the +same soil and herbage. + +We now proceeded along a very uneven country, the upper parts of which +were covered with poplars, a little under-wood, and plenty of grass: the +intervening vallies were watered with rivulets. From these +circumstances, and the general appearance of vegetation, I could not +account for the apparent absence of animals of every kind. + + +_Tuesday, 9._--At two in the afternoon we arrived at the largest river +that we had seen, since we left our canoe, and which forced its way +between and over the huge stones that opposed its current. Our course +was about South-South-West sixteen miles along the river, which might +here justify the title of a lake. The road was good, and our next +course, which was West by South, brought us onward ten miles, where we +encamped, fatigued and wet, it having rained three parts of the day. +This river abounds with fish, and must fall into the great river, +further down than we had extended our voyage. + +A heavy and continued rain fell through great part of the night, and as +we were in some measure exposed to it, time was required to dry our +clothes; so that it was half past seven in the morning before we were +ready to set out. As we found the country so destitute of game, and +foreseeing the difficulty of procuring provisions for our return, I +thought it prudent to conceal half a bag of pemmican: having sent off +the Indians, and all my people except two, we buried it under the +fire-place, as we had done on a former occasion. We soon overtook our +party, and continued our route along the river or lake. About twelve I +had an altitude, but it was inaccurate from the cloudiness of the +weather. We continued our progress till five in the afternoon, when the +water began to narrow, and in about half an hour we came to a ferry, +where we found a small raft. At this time it began to thunder, and +torrents of rain soon followed, which terminated our journey for the +day. Our course was about South, twenty-one miles from the lake already +mentioned. We now discovered the tops of mountains, covered with snow, +over very high intermediate land. We killed a whitehead and a grey +eagle, and three grey partridges; we also saw two otters in the river, +and several beaver lodges along it. When the rain ceased, we caught a +few small fish, and repaired the raft for the service of the ensuing +day. + + +_Wednesday, 10._--At an early hour of this morning we prepared to +cross the water. The traverse is about thirty yards, and it required +five trips to get us all over. At a short distance below, a small river +falls in, that comes from the direction in which we were proceeding. It +is a rapid for about three hundred yards, when it expands into a lake, +along which our road conducted us, and beneath a range of beautiful +hills, covered with verdure. At half past eight we came to the +termination of the lake, where there were two houses that occupied a +most delightful situation, and as they contained their necessary +furniture, it seemed probable that their owners intended shortly to +return. Near them were several graves or tombs, to which the natives +are particularly attentive, and never suffer any herbage to grow upon +them. In about half an hour we reached a place where there were two +temporary huts, that contained thirteen men, with whom we found our +guide who had preceded us, in order to secure a good reception. The +buildings were detached from each other, and conveniently placed for +fishing in the lake. Their inhabitants called themselves +Sloua-cuss-Dinais, which denomination, as far as my interpreter could +explain it to me, I understood to mean Red-fish Men. They were much +more cleanly, healthy, and agreeable in their appearance, than any of +the natives whom we had passed; nevertheless, I have no doubt that they +are the same people, from their name alone, which is of the Chepewyan +language. My interpreters, however, understood very little of what they +said, so that I did not expect much information from them. Some of them +said it was a journey of four days to the sea, and others were of +opinion that it was six; and there were among them who extended it to +eight; but they all uniformly declared that they had been to the coast. +They did not entertain the smallest apprehension of danger from us, and, +when we discharged our pieces, expressed no sensation but that of +astonishment, which, as may be supposed, was proportionably increased +when one of the hunters shot an eagle, at a considerable distance. At +twelve I obtained an altitude, which made our latitude 53. 4. 32. North, +being not so far South as I expected. + +I now went, accompanied by one of my men, an interpreter, and the guide, +to visit some huts at the distance of a mile. On our arrival, the +inhabitants presented us with a dish of boiled trout, of a small kind. +The fish would have been excellent if it had not tasted of the kettle, +which was made of the bark of the white spruce, and of the dried grass +with which it was boiled. Besides this kind of trout, red and white +carp and jub, are the only fish I saw as the produce of these waters. + +These people appeared to live in a state of comparative comfort; they +take a greater share in the labour of the women, than is common among +the savage tribes, and are, as I was informed, content with one wife. +Though this circumstance may proceed rather from the difficulty of +procuring subsistence, than any habitual aversion to polygamy. + +My present guide now informed me, that he could not proceed any further, +and I accordingly engaged two of these people to succeed him in that +office; but when they desired us to proceed on the beaten path without +them, as they could not set off till the following day, I determined to +stay that night, in order to accommodate myself to their convenience. I +distributed some trifles among the wives and children of the men who +were to be our future guides, and returned to my people. We came back +by a different way, and passed by two buildings, erected between four +trees, and about fifteen feet from the ground, which appeared to me to +be intended as magazines for winter provisions. At four in the +afternoon, we proceeded with considerable expedition, by the side of the +lake, till six, when we came to the end of it: we then struck off +through a much less beaten track, and at half past seven stopped for the +night. Our course, was about West-South-West thirteen miles, and West +six miles. + + +_Thursday, 11._--I passed a most uncomfortable night: the first part +of it I was tormented with flies, and in the latter deluged with rain. +In the morning the weather cleared, and as soon as our clothes were +dried, we proceeded through a morass. This part of the country had been +laid waste by fire, and the fallen trees added to the pain and +perplexity of our way. A high, rocky ridge stretched along our left. +Though the rain returned, we continued our progress till noon, when our +guide took to some trees for shelter. We then spread our oil-cloth, +and, with some difficulty, made a fire. About two the rain ceased, when +we continued our journey through the same kind of country which we had +hitherto passed. At half past three we came in sight of a lake; the +land at the same time gradually rising to a range of mountains whose +tops were covered with snow. We soon after observed two fresh tracks, +which seemed to surprise our guides, but they supposed them to have been +made by the inhabitants of the country, who were come into this part of +it to fish. At five in the afternoon we were so wet and cold (for it +had at intervals continued to rain) that we were compelled to stop for +the night. We passed seven rivulets and a creek in this day's journey, +As I had hitherto regulated our course by the sun, I could not form an +accurate judgment of this route, as we had not been favoured with a +sight of it during the day; but I imagine it to have been nearly in the +same direction as that of yesterday. Our distance could not have been +less than fifteen miles. + +Our conductors now began to complain of our mode of travelling, and +mentioned their intention of leaving us; and my interpreters, who were +equally dissatisfied, added to our perplexity by their conduct. Besides +these circumstances, and the apprehension that the distance from the sea +might be greater than I had imagined, it became a matter of real +necessity that we should begin to diminish the consumption of our +provisions, and to subsist upon two-thirds of our allowance; a +preposition which was as unwelcome to my people, as it was necessary to +put into immediate practice. + + +_Friday, 12._--At half past five this morning we proceeded on our +journey, with cloudy weather, and when we came to the end of the lake, +several tracks were visible that led to the side of the water; from +which circumstance I concluded, that some of the natives were fishing +along the banks of it. This lake is not more than three miles long, and +about one broad. We then passed four smaller lakes, the two first being +on our right, and those which preceded, on our left. A small river also +flowed across our way from the right, and we passed it over a +beaver-dam. A larger lake new appeared on our right, and the mountains +on each side of us were covered with snow. We afterwards came to +another lake on our right, and soon reached a river, which our guides +informed us was the same that we had passed on a raft. They said it was +navigable for canoes from the great river, except two rapids, one of +which we had seen. At this place it was upwards of twenty yards across, +and deep water. One of the guides swam over to fetch a raft which was +on the opposite side; and having encreased its dimensions, we crossed at +two trips, except four of the men, who preferred swimming. + +Here our conductors renewed their menace of leaving us, and I was +obliged to give them several articles, and promise more, in order to +induce them to continue till we could procure other natives to succeed +them. At four in the afternoon we forded the same river, and being with +the guides at some distance before the rest of the people, I sat down to +wait for them, and no sooner did they arrive, than the former set off +with so much speed, that my attempt to follow them proved unsuccessful. +One of my Indians, however, who had no load, overtook them, when they +excused themselves to him by declaring that their sole motive for +leaving us, was to prevent the people, whom they expected to find, from +shooting their arrows at us. At seven o'clock, however, were so +fatigued, that we encamped without them; the mountains covered with snow +now appeared to be directly before us. As we were collecting wood for +our fire, we discovered a cross road, where it appeared that people had +passed within seven or eight days. In short, our situation was such as +to afford a just cause of alarm, and that of the people with me was of a +nature to defy immediate alleviation. It was necessary, however, for me +to attempt it; and I rested my principles of encouragement on a +representation of our past perplexities and unexpected relief, and +endeavoured to excite in them the hope of similar good fortune. I +stated to them, that we could not be at a great distance from the sea, +and that there were but few natives to pass, till we should arrive among +those, who being accustomed to visit the sea coast, and, having seen +white people, would be disposed to treat us with kindness. Such was the +general tenor of the reasoning I employed on the occasion, and I was +happy to find that it was not offered in vain. + +The weather had been cloudy till three in the afternoon, when the sun +appeared; but surrounded, as we were, with snow-clad mountains; the air +became so cold, that the violence of our exercise, was not sufficient to +produce a comfortable degree of warmth. Our course to-day was from West +to South and at least thirty-six miles. The land in general was very +barren and stony, and lay in ridges, with cypress trees scattered over +them. We passed several swamps, where we saw nothing to console us but +a few tracks of deer. + + +_Saturday, 13._--The weather this morning was clear but cold, and our +scanty covering was not sufficient to protect us from the severity of +the night. About five, after we had warmed ourselves at a large fire, +we proceeded on our dubious journey. In about an hour we came to the +edge of a wood, when we perceived a house, situated on a green spot, and +by the side of a small river. The smoke that issued from it informed us +that it was inhabited. I immediately pushed forward towards this +mansion, while my people were in such a state of alarm, that they +followed me with the greatest reluctance. On looking back, I perceived +that we were in an Indian defile, of fifty yards in length. I, however, +was close upon the house before the inhabitants perceived us, when the +women and children uttered the most horrid shrieks, and the only man who +appeared to be with them, escaped out of a back door, which I reached in +time to prevent the women and children from following him. The man fled +with all his speed into the wood, and I called in vain on my +interpreters to speak to him, but they were so agitated with fear as to +have lost the power of utterance. It is impossible to describe the +distress and alarm of these poor people, who believing that they were +attacked by enemies, expected an immediate massacre, which, among +themselves, never fails to follow such an event. + +Our prisoners consisted of three women, and seven children, which +apparently composed three families. At length, however, by our +demeanor, and our presents, we contrived to dissipate their +apprehensions. One of the women then informed us, that their people, +with several others had left that place three nights before, on a +trading journey to a tribe whom she called Annah, which is the name the +Chepewyans give to the Knisteneaux, at the distance of three days. She +added also, that from the mountains before us, which were covered with +snow, the sea was visible; and accompanied her information with a +present of a couple of dried fish. We now expressed our desire that the +man might be induced to return, and conduct us in the road to the sea. +Indeed, it was not long before he discovered himself in the wood, when +he was assured, both by the women and our interpreters, that we had no +hostile design against him; but these assurances had no effect in +quieting his apprehensions. I then attempted to go to him alone, and +showed him a knife, beads, &c., to induce him to come to me, but he, in +return, made a hostile display of his bow and arrows: and, having for +some time exhibited a variety of strange antics, again disappeared. +However, he soon presented himself in another quarter, and after a +succession of parleys between us, he engaged to come and accompany us. + +While these negotiations were proceeding, I proposed to visit the +fishing machines, to which the women readily consented, and I found in +them twenty small fish, such as trout, carp, and jub, for which I gave +her a large knife; a present that appeared to be equally unexpected and +gratifying to her. Another man now came towards us, from a hill, +talking aloud from the time he appeared, till he reached us. The +purport of his speech was, that he threw himself upon our mercy and we +might kill him, if it was our pleasure but that from what he had heard, +he looked rather for our friendship than our enmity. He was an elderly +person, of a decent appearance, and I gave him some articles to +conciliate him to us. The first man now followed with a lad along with +him, both of whom were the sons of the old man, and, on his arrival, he +gave me several half dried fish, which I considered as a peace-offering. +After some conversation with these people, respecting the country, and +our future progress through it, we retired to rest, with sensations very +different from those with which we had risen in the morning. The +weather had been generally cloudy throughout the day, and when the sun +was obscured, extremely cold for the season. At noon I obtained a +meridian altitude, which gave 52. 58. 58. North latitude. I likewise +took time in the after-noon. + + +_Sunday, 14._--This morning we had a bright sun, with an East wind. +These people examined their fishing machines, when they found in them a +great number of small fish, and we dressed as many of them as we could +eat. Thus was our departure retarded until seven, when we proceeded on +our journey, accompanied by the man and his two sons. As I did not want +the younger, and should be obliged to feed him, I requested of his +father to leave him, for the purpose of fishing for the women. He +replied, that they were accustomed to fish for themselves, and that I +need not be apprehensive of their encroaching upon my provisions, as +they were used to sustain themselves in their journies on herbs, and the +inner tegument of the bark of trees, for the stripping of which he had a +thin piece of bone, then hanging by his side. The latter is of +glutinous quality, of a clammy, sweet taste, and is generally considered +by the more interior Indians as a delicacy, rather than an article of +common food. Our guide informed me that there is a short cut across the +mountains, but as there was no trace of a road, and it would shorten our +journey but one day, he should prefer the beaten way. + +We accordingly proceeded along a lake, West five miles. We then crossed +a small river, and passed through a swamp, about South-West, when we +began gradually to ascend for some time till we gained the summit of a +hill, where we had an extensive view to the South-East, from which +direction a considerable river appeared to flow, at the distance of +about three miles: it was represented to me as being navigable for +canoes. The descent of this hill was more steep than its ascent, and +was succeeded by another, whose top, though not so elevated as the last, +afforded a view of the range of mountains, covered with snow, which, +according to the intelligence of our guide, terminates in the ocean. We +now left a small lake on our left, then crossed a creek running out of +it, and at one in the afternoon came to a house, of the same +construction and dimensions as have already been mentioned, but the +materials were much better prepared and finished. The timber was +squared on two sides, and the bark taken off the two others; the ridge +pole was also shaped in the same manner, extending about eight or ten +feet beyond the gable end, and supporting a shed over the door: the end +of it was carved into the similitude of a snake's head. Several +hieroglyphics and figures of a similar workmanship, and painted with red +earth, decorated the interior of the building. The inhabitants had left +the house but a short time, and there were several bags or bundles in +it, which I did not suffer to be disturbed. Near it were two tombs, +surrounded in a neat manner with boards, and covered with bark. Beside +them several poles had been erected, one of which was squared, and all +of them painted. From each of them were suspended several rolls or +parcels of bark, and our guide gave the following account of them; +which, as far as we could judge, from our imperfect knowledge of the +language, and the incidental errors of interpretation, appeared to +involve two different modes of treating their dead; or it might be one +and the same ceremony, which we did not distinctly comprehend: at all +events, it is the practice of these people to burn the bodies of their +dead, except the larger bones, which are rolled up in bark and suspended +from poles, as I have already described. According to the other +account, it appeared that they actually bury their dead; and when +another of the family dies, the remains of the person who was last +interred are taken from the grave and burned, has been already +mentioned; so that the members of a family are thus successively buried +and burned, to make room for each other; and one tomb proves sufficient +for a family through succeeding generations. There is no house in this +country without a tomb in its vicinity. Our last course extended about +ten miles. + +We continued our journey along the lake before the house, and, crossing +a river that flowed out of it, came to a kind of bank, or weir, formed +by the natives, for the purpose of placing their fishing machines, many +of which of different sizes, were lying on the side of the river. Our +guide placed one of them, with the certain expectation that on his +return he should find plenty of fish in it. We proceeded nine miles +further, on a good road, West-South-West, when we came to a small lake: +we then crossed a river that ran out of it, and our guides were in +continual expectation of meeting with some of the natives. To this +place our course was a mile and a half, in the same direction as the +last. At nine at night we crossed a river on rafts, our last distance +being about four miles South-East, on a winding road, through a swampy +country, and along a succession of small lakes. We were now quite +exhausted, and it was absolutely necessary for us to stop for the night. +The weather being clear throughout the day, we had no reason to complain +of the cold. Our guides encouraged us with the hope that, in two days +of similar exertion, we should arrive among people of the other nation. + + +_Monday, 15._--At five this morning we were again in motion, and +passing along a river, we at length forded it. This stream was not more +than knee deep, about thirty yards over, and with a stony bottom. The +old man went onward by himself, in the hope of falling in with the +people, whom he expected to meet in the course of the day. At eleven we +came up with him, and the natives whom he expected, consisting of five +men, and part of their families. They received us with great kindness, +and examined us with the most minute attention. They must, however, +have been told that we were white, as our faces no longer indicated that +distinguishing complexion. They called themselves Neguia Dinais, and +were come in a different direction from us, but were now going the same +way, to the Anah-yoe Tesse or River, and appeared to be very much +satisfied with our having joined them. They presented us with some fish +which they had just taken in the adjoining lake. + +Here I expected that our guides, like their predecessors, would have +quitted us, but, on the contrary, they expressed themselves to be so +happy, in our company, and that of their friends, that they voluntarily, +and with great cheerfulness proceeded to pass another night with us. +Our new acquaintance were people of a very pleasing aspect. The hair of +the women was tied in large loose knots over the ears, and plaited with +great neatness from the division of the head, so as to be included in +the knots. Some of them had adorned their tresses with beads, with a +very pretty effect. The men were clothed in leather, their hair was +nicely combed, and their complexion was fairer, or perhaps it may be +said, with more propriety, that they were more cleanly, than any of the +natives whom we had yet seen. Their eyes, though keen and sharp, are +not of that dark colour, so generally observable in the various tribes +of Indians; they were, on the contrary, of a grey hue, with a tinge of +red. There was one man amongst them of at least six feet four inches in +height; his manners were affable, and he had a more prepossessing +appearance than any Indian I had met with in my journey; he was about +twenty-eight years of age, and was treated with particular respect by +his party. Every man, woman, and child carried a proportionate burden, +consisting of beaver coating, and parchment, as well as skins of the +otter, the marten, the bear, the lynx, and dressed moose-skins. The +last they procure from the Rocky-Mountain Indians. According to their +account, the people of the sea coast prefer them to any other article. +Several of their relations and friends, they said, were already gone, +as well provided as themselves, to barter with the people of the coast; +who barter them in their turn, except the dressed leather, with white +people, who, as they had been informed, arrive there in large canoes. + +Such an escort was the most fortunate circumstance that could happen in +our favour. They told us, that as the women and children could not +travel fast, we should be three days in getting to the end of our +journey; which must be supposed to have been very agreeable infomation +to people in our exhausted condition. + +In about half an hour after we had joined our new acquaintance, the +signal for moving onwards was given by the leader of the party, who +vociferated, the words Huy, Huy, when his people joined him and +continued a clamorous conversation. We passed along a winding road, +over hills, and through swampy vallies, from South to West. We then +crossed a deep, narrow river, which discharges itself into a lake, on +whose side we stopped at five in the afternoon, for the night, though we +had reposed several times since twelve at noon; so that our mode of +travelling had undergone a very agreeable change. I compute the +distance of this day's journey at about twenty miles. In the middle of +the day the weather was clear and sultry. + +We all sat down on a very pleasant green spot, and were no sooner +seated, than our guide and one of the party prepared to engage in play. +They had each a bundle of about fifty small sticks, neatly polished, of +the size of a quill, and five inches long: a certain number of these +sticks had red lines round them; and as many of these as one of the +players might find convenient were curiously rolled up in dry grass, and +according to the judgment of his antagonist respecting their number and +marks, he lost or won. Our friend was apparently the loser, as he +parted with his bow and arrows, and several articles which I had given +him. + + +_Tuesday, 16._--The weather of this morning was the same as yesterday; +but our fellow-travellers were in no hurry to proceed, and I was under +the necessity of pressing them into greater expedition, by representing +the almost exhausted state of our provisions. They, however, assured +us, that after the next night's sleep we should arrive at the river +where they were going and that we should there get fish in great +abundance. My young men, from an act of imprudence, deprived themselves +last night of that rest which was so necessary to them. One of the +strangers asking them several questions respecting us, and concerning +their own country, one of them gave such answers as were not credited by +the audience; whereupon he demanded, in a very angry tone, if they +thought he was disposed to tell lies, like the Rocky Mountain Indians; +and one of that tribe happening to be of the party, a quarrel ensued, +which might have been attended with the most serious consequences, if it +had not been fortunately prevented by the interference of those who were +not interested in the dispute. + +Though our stock of provisions was getting so low, I determined, +nevertheless, to hide about twenty pounds of pemmican, by way of +providing against our return. I therefore left two of the men behind, +with directions to bury it, as usual, under the place where we had made +our fire. + +Our course was about West-South-West by the side of the lake, and in +about two miles we came to the end of it. Here was a general halt, when +my men overtook us. I was now informed, that some people of another +tribe were sent for, who wished very much to see us, two of whom would +accompany us over the mountains; that, as for themselves, they had +changed their mind, and intended to follow a small river which issued +out of the lake, and went in a direction very different from the line of +our journey. This was a disappointment, which, though not uncommon to +us, might have been followed by considerable inconveniences. It was my +wish to continue with them whatever way they went; but neither my +promises or entreaties would avail; these people were not to be turned +from their purpose; and when I represented the low state of our +provisions, one of them answered, that if we would stay with them all +night, he would boil a kettle of fish-roes for us. Accordingly, without +receiving any answer, he began to make preparation to fulfil his +engagement. He took the roes out of a bag, and having bruised them +between two stones, put them in water to soak. His wife then took an +handful of dry grass in her hand, with which she squeezed them through +her fingers; in the mean time her husband was employed in gathering wood +to make a fire, for the purpose of heating stones. When she had +finished her operation, she filled a water kettle nearly full of water, +and poured the roes into it. When the stones were sufficiently heated, +some of them were put into the kettle, and others were thrown in from +time to time, till the water was in a state of boiling; the woman also +continued stirring the contents of the kettle, till they were brought to +a thick consistency; the stones were then taken out, and the whole was +seasoned with about a pint of strong rancid oil. The smell of this +curious dish was sufficient to sicken me without tasting it, but the +hunger of my people surmounted the nauseous meal. When unadulterated by +the stinking oil, these boiled roes are not unpalatable food. + +In the mean time four of the people who had been expected, arrived, and, +according to the account given of them, were of two tribes whom I had +not yet known. After some conversation, they proposed, that I should +continue my route by their houses; but the old guide, who was now +preparing to leave us, informed me that it would lengthen my journey; +and by his advice I proposed to them to conduct us along the road which +had already been marked out to us. This they undertook without the +least hesitation; and, at the same time, pointed out to me the pass in +the mountain, bearing South by East by compass. Here I had a meridian +altitude, and took time. + +At four in the afternoon we parted with our late fellow-travellers in a +very friendly manner, and immediately forded the river. The wild +parsnip, which luxuriates on the borders of the lakes and rivers, is a +favourite food of the natives: they roast the tops of this plant, in +their tender state, over the fire, and taking off the outer rind, they +are then a very palatable food. + +We now entered the woods, and some time after arrived on the banks of +another river that flowed from the mountain, which we also forded. The +country soon after we left the river was swampy; and the fire having +passed through it, the number of trees, which had fallen, added to the +toil of our journey. In a short time we began to ascend, and continued +ascending till nine at night. We walked upwards of fourteen miles, +according to my computation, in the course of the day, though the strait +line of distance might not be more than ten. Notwithstanding that we +were surrounded by mountains covered with snow, we were very much +tormented with musquitoes. + + +_Wednesday, 17._--Before the sun rose, our guides summoned us to +proceed, when we descended into a beautiful valley, watered by a small +river. At eight we came to the termination of it, where we saw a great +number of moles, and began again to ascend. We now perceived many +ground-hogs, and heard them whistle in every direction. The Indians +went in pursuit of them, and soon joined us with a female and her +litter, almost grown to their full size. They stripped off their skins, +and gave the carcases to my people. They also pulled up a root, which +appeared like a bunch of white berries of the size of a pea; its shape +was that of a fig, while it had the colour and taste of a potatoe. + +We now gained the summit of the mountain, and found ourselves surrounded +by snow. But this circumstance is caused rather by the quantity of snow +drifted in the pass, than the real height of the spot, as the +surrounding mountains rise to a much higher degree of elevation. The +snow had become so compact that our feet hardly made a perceptible +impression on it. We observed, however, the tracks of an herd of small +deer which must have passed a short time before us, and the Indians and +my hunters went immediately in pursuit of them. Our way was now nearly +level, without the least snow, and not a tree to be seen in any part of +it. The grass is very short, and the soil a reddish clay, intermixed +with small stones. The face of the hills, where they are not enlivened +with verdure, appears, at a distance, as if fire had passed over them. +It now began to hail, snow, and rain, nor could we find any shelter but +the leeward side of an huge rock. The wind also rose into a tempest, +and the weather was as distressing as any I had ever experienced. After +an absence of an hour and a half, our hunters brought a small doe of the +rein-deer species, which was all they had killed, though they fired +twelve shots at a large herd of them. Their ill success they attributed +to the weather. I proposed to leave half of the venison in the snow, +but the men preferred carrying it, though their strength was very much +exhausted. We had been so long shivering with cold in this situation +that we were glad to renew our march. Here and there were scattered a +few crow-berry bushes and stinted willows; the former of which had not +yet blossomed. + +Before us appeared a stupendous mountain, whose snow-clad summit was +lost in the clouds; between it and our immediate course, flowed the +river to which we were going. The Indians informed us that it was at no +great distance. As soon as we could gather a sufficient quantity of +wood, we stopped to dress some of our venison; and it is almost +superfluous to add, that we made an heartier meal than we had done for +many a day before. To the comfort which I have just mentioned, I added +that of taking off my beard, as well as changing my linen, and my people +followed the humanising example. We then set forwards, and came to a +large pond, on whose bank we found a tomb, but lately made, with a pole, +as usual, erected beside it, on which two figures of birds were painted, +and by them the guides distinguished the tribe to which the deceased +person belonged. One of them, very unceremoniously, opened the bark and +shewed us the bones which it contained, while the other threw down the +pole, and having possessed himself of the feathers that were tied to it, +fixed them on his own head. I therefore conjectured, that these funeral +memorials belonged to an individual of a tribe at enmity with them. + +We continued our route with a considerable degree of expedition, and as +we proceeded the mountains appeared to withdraw from us. The country +between them soon opened to our view, which apparently added to their +awful elevation. We continued to descend till we came to the brink of a +precipice, from whence our guides discovered the river to us, and a +village on its banks. This precipice, or rather succession of +precipices, is covered with large timber, which consists of the pine, +the spruce, the hemlock, the birch, and other trees. Our conductors +informed us, that it abounded in animals, which, from their description, +must be wild goats. In about two hours we arrived at the bottom, where +there is a conflux of two rivers, that issue from the mountains. We +crossed the one which was to the left. They are both very rapid, and +continue so till they unite their currents, forming a stream of about +twelve yards in breadth. Here the timber was also very large; but I +could not learn from our conductors why the most considerable hemlock +trees were stripped of their bark to the tops of them. I concluded, +indeed, at that time that the inhabitants tanned their leather with it. +Here were also the largest and loftiest elder and cedar trees that I had +ever seen. We were now sensible of an entire change in the climate, and +the berries were quite ripe. + +The sun was about to set, when our conductors left us to follow them as +well as we could. We were prevented, however, from going far astray, +for we were hemmed in on both sides and behind by such a barrier as +nature never before presented to my view. Our guides had the precaution +to mark the road for us, by breaking the branches of trees as they +passed. This small river must, at certain seasons, rise to an uncommon +height and strength of current most probably on the melting of the snow; +as we saw a large quantity of drift wood lying twelve feet above the +immediate level of the river. This circumstance impeded our progress, +and the protruding rocks frequently forced us to pass through the water. +It was now dark, without the least appearance of houses, though it would +be impossible to have seen them, if there had been any, at the distance +of twenty yards, from the thickness of the woods. My men were anxious +to stop for the night; indeed the fatigue they had suffered justified +the proposal, and I left them to their choice; but as the anxiety of my +mind impelled me forwards, they continued to follow me, till I found +myself at the edge of the woods; and, notwithstanding the remonstrances +that were made, I proceeded, feeling rather than seeing my way, till I +arrived at a house, and soon discovered several fires, in small huts, +with people busily employed in cooking their fish. I walked into one of +them without the least ceremony, threw down my burden, and, after +shaking hands with some of the people, sat down upon it. They received +me without the least appearance of surprize, but soon made signs for me +to go up to the large house, which was erected, on upright posts, at +some distance from the ground. A broad piece of timber with steps cut +in it, led to the scaffolding even with the floor, and by this curious +kind of ladder I entered the house at one end; and having passed three +fires, at equal distances in the middle of the building, I was received +by several people, sitting upon a very wide board, at the upper end of +it. I shook hands with them, and seated myself beside a man, the +dignity of whose countenance induced me to give him that preference. I +soon discovered one of my guides seated a little above me, with a neat +mat spread before him, which I supposed to be the place of honour, and +appropriated to strangers. + + +In a short time my people arrived, and placed themselves near me, when +the man, by whom I sat, immediately rose, and fetched, from behind a +plank of about four feet wide, a quantity of roasted salmon. He then +directed a mat to be placed before me and Mr. Mackay, who was now +sitting by me. When this ceremony was performed, he brought a salmon +for each of us, and half an one to each of my men. The same plank also +served as a screen for the beds, whither the women and children were +already retired; but whether that circumstances took place on our +arrival, or was the natural consequence of the late hour of the night, I +did not discover. The signs of our protector seemed to denote that we +might sleep in the house, but as we did not understand him with a +sufficient degree of certainty, I thought it prudent, from the fear of +giving offence, to order the men to make a fire without, that we might +sleep by it. When he observed our design, he placed boards for us, that +we might not take our repose on the bare ground, and ordered a fire to +be prepared for us. We had not been long seated round it, when we +received a large dish of salmon roes, pounded fine and beat up with +water, so as to have the appearance of a cream. Nor was it without some +kind of seasoning that gave it a bitter taste. Another dish soon +followed, the principal article of which was also salmon roes, with a +large proportion of gooseberries, and an herb that appeared to be +sorrel. Its acidity rendered it more agreeable to my taste than the +former preparation. Having been regaled with these delicacies, for such +they were considered by that hospitable spirit which provided them, we +laid ourselves down to rest, with no other canopy than the sky; but I +never enjoyed a more sound and refreshing rest, though I had a board for +my bed, and a billet for my pillow. + + +_Thursday, 18._--At five this morning I awoke, and found that the +natives had lighted a fire for us, and were sitting by it. My +hospitable friend immediately brought me some berries and roasted +salmon, and his companions soon followed his example. The former, which +consisted among many others, of gooseberries, hurtleberries, and +raspberries, were of the finest I ever saw or tasted, of their +respective kinds. They also brought the dried roes of fish to eat with +the berries. + +Salmon is so abundant in this river, that these people +have a constant and plentiful supply of that excellent fish. To take +them with more facility, they had, with great labour, formed an +embankment or weir across the river, for the purpose of placing their +fishing machines, which they disposed both above and below it. I +expressed my wish to visit this extraordinary work, but these people are +so superstitious, that they would not allow me a nearer examination than +I could obtain by viewing it from the bank. The river is about fifty +yards in breadth, and by observing a man fish with a dipping net, I +judged it to be about ten feet deep at the foot of the fall. The weir +is a work of great labour, and contrived with considerable ingenuity. +It was near four feet above the level of the water, at the time I saw +it, and nearly the height of the bank on which I stood to examine it. +The stream is stopped nearly two-thirds by it. It is constructed by +fixing small trees in the bed of the river, in a slanting position +(which could be practicable only when the water is much lower than when +I saw it) with the thick part downwards; over these is laid a bed of +gravel, on which is placed a range of lesser trees, and so on +alternately till the work is brought to its proper height. Beneath it +the machines are placed, into which the salmon fall when they attempt to +leap over. On either side there is a large frame of timber-work, six +feet above the level of the upper water, in which passages are left for +the salmon leading directly into the machines, which are taken up at +pleasure. At the foot of the fall dipping nets are also successfully +employed. + +The water of this river is of the colour of asses' milk, +which I attributed in part to the limestone that in many places forms +the bed of the river, but principally to the rivulets which fall from +mountains of the same material. + +These people indulge an extreme superstition respecting their fish, as +it is apparently their only animal food. Flesh they never taste, and +one of their dogs having picked and swallowed part of a bone which we +had left, was beaten by his master till he disgorged it. One of my +people also having thrown a bone of the deer into the river, a native, +who had observed the circumstance, immediately dived and brought it up, +and, having consigned it to the fire, instantly proceeded to wash his +polluted hands. + +As we were still at some distance from the sea, I made application to my +friend to procure us a canoe or two, with people to conduct us thither. +After he had made various excuses, I at length comprehended that his +only objection was to the embarking venison in a canoe on their river, +as the fish would instantly smell it and abandon them, so that he, his +friends, and relations, must starve. I soon eased his apprehensions on +that point, and desired to know what I must do with the venison that +remained, when he told me to give it to one of the strangers whom he +pointed out to me, as being of a tribe that eat flesh. I now requested +him to furnish me with some fresh salmon in its raw state; but, instead +of complying with my wish, he brought me a couple of them roasted, +observing at the same time, that the current was very strong, and would +bring us to the next village, where our wants would be abundantly +supplied, In short, he requested that we would make haste to depart. +This was rather unexpected after so much kindness and hospitality, but +our ignorance of the language prevented us from being able to discover +the cause. + +At eight this morning, fifteen men armed, the friends and relations of +these people, arrived by land, in consequence of notice sent them in the +night, immediately after the appearance of our guides. They are more +corpulent and of a better appearance than the inhabitants of the +interior. Their language totally different from any I had heard; the +Atnah or Chin tribe, as far as I can judge from the very little I saw of +that people, bear the nearest resemblance to them. They appear to be of +a quiet and peaceable character, and never make any hostile incursions +into the lands of their neighbours. Their dress consists of a single +robe tied over the shoulders, falling down behind, to the heels, and +before, a little below the knees, with a deep fringe round the bottom. +It is generally made of the bark of the cedar tree, which they prepare +as fine as hemp; though some of these garments are interwoven with +strips of the sea-otter skin, which give them the appearance of a fur on +one side. Others have stripes of red and yellow threads fancifully +introduced toward the borders, which have a very agreeable effect. The +men have no other covering than that which I have described, and they +unceremoniously lay it aside when they find it convenient. In addition +to this robe, the women wear a close fringe hanging down before them +about two feet in length, and half as wide. When they sit down they +draw this between their thighs. They wear their hair so short, that it +requires: little care or combing. The men have their's in plaits, and +being smeared with oil and red earth, instead of a comb they have a +small stick hanging by a string from one of the locks, which they employ +to alleviate any itching or irritation in the head. The colour of the +eye is grey with a tinge of red. They have all high cheek-bones, but +the women are more remarkable for that feature than the men. Their +houses, arms, and utensils I shall describe hereafter. + +I presented my friend with several articles, and also distributed some +among others of the natives who had been attentive to us. One of my +guides had been very serviceable in procuring canoes for us to proceed +on our expedition; he appeared also to be very desirous of giving these +people a favourable impression of us; and I was very much concerned that +he should leave me as he did, without giving me the least notice of his +departure, or receiving the presents which I had prepared for him, and he +so well deserved. At noon I had an observation which gave 52. 28. 11. +North latitude. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +JULY, 1793. + +At one in the afternoon we embarked, with our small baggage, in two +canoes, accompanied by seven of the natives, The stream was rapid, and +ran upwards of six miles an hour. We came to a weir, such as I have +already described, where the natives landed us, and shot over it without +taking a drop of water. They then received us on board again, and we +continued our voyage, passing many canoes on the river, some with people +in them, and others empty. We proceeded at a very great rate for about +two hours and a half, when we were informed that we must land, as the +village was only at a short distance. I had imagined that the Canadians +who accompanied me were the most expert canoe-men in the world, but they +are very inferior to these people, as they themselves acknowledged, in +conducting those vessels. + +Some of the Indians ran before us, to announce our approach, when we +took our bundles and followed. We had walked along a well-beaten path, +through a kind of coppice, when we were informed of the arrival of our +couriers at the houses, by the loud and confused talking of the +inhabitants. As we approached the edge of the wood, and were almost in +sight of the houses, the Indians who were before me made signs for me to +take the lead, and that they would follow. The noise and confusion of +the natives now seemed to encrease, and when we came in sight of the +village, we saw them running from house to house, some armed with bows +and arrows, others with spears, and many with axes, as if in a state of +great alarm, This very unpleasant and unexpected circumstance, I +attributed to our sudden arrival, and the very short notice of it which +had been given them. At all events, I had but one line of conduct to +pursue, which was to walk resolutely up to them, without manifesting any +signs of apprehension at their hostile appearance. This resolution +produced the desired effect, for as we approached the houses, the +greater part of the people laid down their weapons, and came forward to +meet us. I was, however, soon obliged to stop from the number of them +that surrounded me. I shook hands, as usual with such as were nearest +to me, when an elderly man broke through the crowd, and took me in his +arms; another then came, who turned him away without the least ceremony, +and paid me the same compliment. The latter was followed by a young +man, whom I understood to be his son. These embraces, which at first +rather surprised me, I soon found to be marks of regard and friendship. +The crowd pressed with so much violence and contention to get a view of +us, that we could not move in any direction. An opening was at length +made to allow a person to approach me, whom the old man made me +understand was another of his sons. I instantly stepped forward to meet +him, and presented my hand, whereupon he broke the string of a very +handsome robe of sea otter skin, which he had on, and covered me with +it. This was as flattering a reception as I could possibly receive, +especially as I considered him to be the eldest son of the chief. +Indeed, it appeared to me that we had been detained here for the purpose +of giving him time to bring the robe with which he had presented me. + +The chief now made signs for us to follow him, and he conducted us +through a narrow coppice, for several hundred yards, till we came to a +house built on the ground, which was of larger dimensions, and formed of +better materials than any I had hitherto seen; it was his residence. We +were no sooner arrived there, than he directed mats to be spread before +it, on which we were told to take our seats, when the men of the +village, who came to indulge their curiosity, were ordered to keep +behind us. In our front other mats were placed, where the chief and his +counsellors took their seats. In the intervening space, mats, which +were very clean, and of a much neater workmanship than those on which we +sat, were also spread, and a small roasted salmon placed before each of +us. When we had satisfied ourselves with the fish, one of the people +who came with us from the last village approached, with a kind of ladle +in one hand, containing oil, and in the other something that resembled +the inner rind of the cocoa-nut, but of a lighter colour, this he dipped +in the oil, and, having eat it, indicated by his gestures how palatable +he thought it. He then presented me with a small piece of it, which I +chose to taste in its dry state, though the oil was free from any +unpleasant smell. A square cake of this was next produced, when a man +took it to the water near the house, and having thoroughly soaked it, he +returned, and, after he had pulled it to pieces like oakum, put it into +a well-made trough, about three feet long, nine inches wide, and five +deep; he then plentifully sprinkled it with salmon oil, and manifested +by his own example that we were to eat of it. I just tasted it, and +found the oil perfectly sweet, without which the other ingredient would +have been very insipid. The chief partook of it with great avidity, +after it had received an additional quantity of oil. This dish is +considered by these people as a great delicacy, and on examination, I +discovered it to consist of the inner rind of the hemlock tree, taken +off early in summer, and put into a frame, which shapes it into cakes of +fifteen inches long, ten broad, and half an inch thick; and in this form +I should suppose it may be preserved for a great length of time. This +discovery satisfied me respecting the many hemlock trees which I had +observed stripped of their bark. + +In this situation we remained for upwards of three hours, and not one of +the curious natives left us during all that time, except a party of ten +or twelve of them, whom the chief ordered to go and catch fish, which +they did in great abundance, with dipping nets, at the foot of the Weir. + +At length we were relieved from the gazing crowd, and got a lodge +erected, and covered in for our reception during the night. I now +presented the young chief with a blanket, in return for the robe with +which he had favoured me, and several other articles, that appeared to +be very gratifying to him. I also presented some to his father, and +amongst them was a pair of scissors, whose use I explained to him, for +clipping his beard, which was of great length; and to that purpose he +immediately applied them. My distribution of similar articles was also +extended to others, who had been attentive to us. The communication, +however, between us was awkward and inconvenient, for it was carried on +entirely by signs, as there was not a person with me who was qualified +for the office of an interpreter. + +We were all of us very desirous to get some fresh salmon, that we might +dress them in our own way, but could not by any means obtain that +gratification, though there were thousands of that fish strung on cords, +which were fastened to stakes in the river. They were even averse to +our approaching the spot where they clean and prepare them for their own +eating. They had, indeed, taken our kettle from us, lest we should +employ it in getting water from the river; and they assigned as the +reason for this precaution, that the salmon dislike the smell of iron. +At the same time, they supplied us with wooden boxes, which were capable +of holding any fluid. Two of the men who went to fish, in a canoe +capable of containing ten people, returned with a full lading of salmon, +that weighed from six to forty pounds, though the far greater part of +them were under twenty. They immediately strung the whole of them, as I +have already mentioned, in the river. + +I now made the tour of the village, which consisted of four elevated +houses, and seven built on the ground, besides a considerable number of +other buildings or sheds, which are used only as kitchens, and places +for curing their fish. The former are constructed by fixing a certain +number of posts in the earth, on some of which are laid, and to others +are fastened, the supporters of the floor, at about twelve feet above +the surface of the ground; their length is from a hundred to a hundred +and twenty feet, and they are about forty in breadth. Along the centre +are built three, four, or five hearths, for the two-fold purpose of +giving warmth, and dressing their fish. The whole length of the +building on either side is divided by cedar planks, into partitions or +apartments of seven feet square, in the front of which there are boards, +about three feet wide, over which, though they are not immovably fixed, +the inmates of these recesses generally pass, when they go to rest. The +greater part of them are intended for that purpose, and such are covered +with boards, at the height of the wall of the house, which is about +seven or eight feet, and rest upon beams that stretch across the +building. On those also are placed the chests which contain their +provisions, utensils, and whatever they possess. The intermediate space +is sufficient for domestic purposes. On poles that run along the beams, +hang roasted fish, and the whole building is well covered with boards +and bark, except within a few inches of the ridge pole; where open +spaces are left on each side to let in light and emit the smoke. At the +end of the house that fronts the river, is a narrow scaffolding, which +is also ascended by a piece of timber, with steps cut in it; and at each +corner of this erection there are openings for the inhabitants to ease +nature. As it does not appear to be a custom among them to remove these +heaps of excremental filth, it may be supposed that the effluvia does +not annoy them. + +The houses which rest on the ground are built of the same materials, and +on the same plan. A sloping stage that rises to a cross piece of +timber, supported by two forks, joins also to the main building, for +those purposes which need not be repeated. + +When we were surrounded by the natives on our arrival, I counted +sixty-five men, and several of them may be supposed to have been absent; +I cannot, therefore, calculate the inhabitants of this village at less +than two hundred souls. + +The people who accompanied us hither, from the other village, had given +the chief a very particular account of everything they knew concerning +us: I was, therefore, requested to produce my astronomical instruments, +nor could I have any objection to afford them this satisfaction, as they +would necessarily add to our importance in their opinion. + +Near the house of the chief I observed several oblong squares, of about +twenty feet by eight. They were made of thick cedar boards, which were +joined with so much neatness, that I at first thought they were one +piece. They were painted with hieroglyphics, and figures of different +animals, and with a degree of correctness that was not to be expected +from such an uncultivated people. I could not learn the use of them, +but they appeared to be calculated for occasional acts of devotion or +sacrifice, which all these tribes perform at least twice in the year, at +the spring and fall. I was confirmed in this opinion by a large +building in the middle of the village, which I at first took for the +half finished frame of a house. The groundplot of it was fifty feet by +forty-five; each end is formed by four stout posts, fixed +perpendicularly in the ground. The corner ones are plain, and support a +beam of the whole length, having three intermediate props on each side, +but of a larger size, and eight or nine feet in height. The two centre +posts, at each end, are two feet and a half in diameter, and carved into +human figures, supporting two ridge poles on their heads, at twelve feet +from the ground. The figures at the upper part of this square represent +two persons, with their hands upon their knees, as if they supported the +weight with pain and difficulty; the others opposite to them stand at +their ease, with their hands resting on their hips. In the area of the +building there were the remains of several fires. The posts, poles, and +figures, were painted red and black; but the sculpture of these people +is superior to their painting. + + +_Friday, 19_--Soon after I retired to rest last night, the chief paid +me a visit to insist on my going to his bed-companion, and taking my +place himself; but, notwithstanding his repeated entreaties, I resisted +this offering of his hospitality. + +At an early hour this morning, I was again visited by the chief, in +company with his son. The former complained of a pain in his breast; to +relieve his suffering, I gave him a few drops of Turlington's Balsam on +a piece of sugar; and I was rather surprised to see him take it without +the least hesitation. When he had taken my medicine, he requested me to +follow him, and conducted me to a shed, where several people were +assembled round a sick man, who was another of his sons. They +immediately uncovered him, and showed me a violent ulcer in the small of +his back, in the foulest state that can be imagined. One of his knees +was also afflicted in the same manner. This unhappy man was reduced to +a skeleton, and, from his appearance, was drawing near to an end of his +pains. They requested that I would touch him, and his father was very +urgent with me to administer medicine; but he was in such a dangerous +state, that I thought it prudent to yield no further to the +importunities than to give the sick man a few drops of Turlington's +Balsam in some water. I therefore left them, but was soon called back +by the loud lamentations of the women, and was rather apprehensive that +some inconvenience might result from my compliance with the chief's +request. On my return I found the native physicians busy in practising +their skill and art on the patient. They blew on him, and then +whistled; at times they pressed their extended fingers, with all their +strength, on his stomach; they also put their forefingers doubled into +his mouth, and spouted water from their own with great violence into his +face. To support these operations, the wretched sufferer was held up in +a sitting posture; and when they were concluded, he was laid down and +covered with a new robe made of the skins of the lynx. I had observed +that his belly and breast were covered with scars, and I understood that +they were caused by a custom prevalent among them, of applying pieces of +lighted touch-wood to their flesh, in order to relieve pain or +demonstrate their courage. He was now placed on a broad plank, and +carried by six men into the woods, where I was invited to accompany +them. I could not conjecture what would be the end of this ceremony, +particularly as I saw one man carry fire, another an axe, and a third +dry wood. I was indeed, disposed to suspect that, as it was their +custom to burn the dead, they intended to relieve the poor man from his +pain, and perform the last sad duty of surviving affection. When they +advanced a short distance into the woods, they laid him upon a clear +spot, and kindled a fire against his back, when the physician began to +scarify the ulcer with a very blunt instrument, the cruel pain of which +operation the patient bore with incredible resolution. The scene +afflicted me, and I left it. + +On my return to our lodge, I observed before the door of the chief's +residence, four heaps of salmon, each of which consisted of between +three and four hundred fish. Sixteen women were employed in cleaning +and preparing them. They first separate the head from the body, the +former of which they boil; they then cut the latter down the back on +each side of the bone, leaving one third of the fish adhering to it, and +afterwards take out the guts. The bone is roasted for immediate use, +and the other parts are dressed in the same manner, but with more +attention, for future provision. While they are before the fire, +troughs are placed under them to receive the oil. The roes are also +carefully preserved, and form a favourite article of their food. + +After I had observed these culinary preparations, I paid a visit to the +chief, who presented me with a roasted salmon; he then opened one of his +chests, and took out of it a garment of blue cloth, decorated with brass +buttons; and another of flowered cotton, which I supposed were Spanish; +it had been trimmed with leather fringe, after the fashion of their own +cloaks. Copper and brass are in great estimation among them, and of the +former they have great plenty: they point their arrows and spears with +it, and work it up into personal ornaments; such as collars, ear-rings, +and bracelets, which they wear on their wrists, arms, and legs. I +presume they find it the most advantageous articles of trade with the +more inland tribes. They also abound in iron. I saw some of their +twisted collars of that metal which weighed upwards of twelve pounds. +It is generally beat in bars of fourteen inches in length, and one inch +three quarters wide. The brass is in thin squares: their copper is in +larger pieces, and some of it appeared to be old stills cut up. They +have various trinkets; but their manufactured iron consists only of +poignards and daggers. Some of the former have very neat handles, with +a silver coin of a quarter or eighth of a dollar fixed on the end of +them.--The blades of the latter are from ten to twelve inches in +length, and about four inches broad at the top, from which they +gradually lessen to a point. + +When I produced my instruments to take an altitude, I was desired not to +make use of them. I could not then discover the cause of this request, +but I experienced the good effect of the apprehension, which they +occasioned, as it was very effectual in hastening my departure. I had +applied several times to the chief to prepare canoes and people to take +me and my party to the sea, but very little attention had been paid to +my application till noon; when I was informed that a canoe was properly +equipped for my voyage, and that the young chief would accompany me. I +now discovered that they had entertained no personal fear of the +instruments, but were apprehensive that the operation of them might +frighten the salmon from that part of the river. The observation taken +in this village gave me 52. 25. 52. North latitude. + +In compliance with the chief's request I desired my people to take their +bundles, and lay them down on the bank of the river. In the mean time I +went to take the dimensions of his large canoe, in which, it was +signified to me, that about ten winters ago he went a considerable +distance toward the mid-day sun, with forty of his people, when he saw +two large vessels full of such men as myself, by whom he was kindly +received: they were, he said, the first white people he had seen. They +were probably the ships commanded by Captain Cook. This canoe was built +of cedar, was forty-five feet long, four feet wide, and three feet and a +half in depth. It was painted black and decorated with white figures of +fish of different kinds. The gunwale, fore and aft, was inlaid with +the teeth of the sea-otter.[1] + +When I returned to the river, the natives who were to accompany us and +my people, were already in the canoe. The latter, however, informed me, +that one of our axes was missing. I immediately applied to the chief, +and requested its restoration; but he would not understand me till I sat +myself down on a stone, with my arms in a state of preparation, and made +it appear to him that I should not depart till the stolen article was +restored. The village was immediately in a state of uproar, and some +danger was apprehended from the confusion that prevailed in it. The +axe, however, which had been hidden under the chief's canoe, was soon +returned. Though this instrument was not, in itself, of sufficient +value to justify a dispute with these people, I apprehended that the +suffering them to keep it, after we had declared its loss, might have +occasioned the loss of every thing we carried with us, and of our lives +also. My people were dissatisfied with me at the moment; but I thought +myself right then, and, I think now, that the circumstances in which we +were involved, justified the measure which I adopted. + +[1] As Captain Cook has mentioned, that the people of the sea-coast +adorned their canoes with human teeth, I was more particular in my +inquiries; the result of which was, the most satisfactory proof that he +was mistaken; but his mistake arose from the very great resemblance +there is between human teeth and those of the sea-otter. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + +JULY, 1793. + +_Saturday, 18._--At one in the afternoon we renewed our voyage in a +large canoe with four of the natives. We found the river almost one +continued rapid, and in half an hour we came to a house, where, however, +we did not land, though invited by the inhabitants. In about an hour we +arrived at two houses, where we were, in some degree, obliged to go on +shore, as we were informed that the owner of them was a person of +consideration. He indeed received and regaled us in the same manner as +at the last village; and to increase his consequence, he produced many +European articles, and amongst them were at least forty pounds weight of +old copper stills. We made our stay as short as possible, and our host +embarked with us. In a very short time we were carried by the rapidity +of the current to another house of very large dimensions, which was +partitioned into different apartments, and whose doors were on the side. +The inhabitants received us with great kindness; but instead of fish, +they placed a long, clean, and well made trough before us full of +berries. In addition to those which we had already seen, there were +some black, that were larger than the hurtleberry, and of a richer +flavour; others white, which resembled the blackberry in everything but +colour. Here we saw a woman with two pieces of copper in her under lip, +as described by Captain Cook. I continued my usual practice of making +these people presents in return for their friendly reception and +entertainment. + +[Transcriber's Note: By context, the date above should read _Friday, 19._] + +The navigation of the river now became more difficult, from the numerous +channels into which it was divided, without any sensible diminution in +the velocity of its current. We soon reached another house of the +common size, where we were well received; but whether our guides had +informed them that we were not in want of anything, or that they were +deficient in inclination, or perhaps the means, of being hospitable to +us, they did not offer us any refreshment. They were in a state of busy +preparation. Some of the women were employed in beating and preparing +the inner rind of the cedar bark, to which they gave the appearance of +flax. Others were spinning with a distaff and spindle. One of them was +weaving a robe of it, intermixed with stripes of the sea-otter skin, on +a frame of adequate contrivance that was placed against the side of the +house. The men were fishing on the river with drag-nets between two +canoes. These nets are forced by poles to the bottom, the current +driving them before it; by which means the salmon coming up the river +are intercepted, and give notice of their being taken by the struggles +they make in the bag or sleeve of the net. There are no weirs in this +part of the river, as I suppose, from the numerous channels into which +it is divided. The machines, therefore, are placed along the banks, and +consequently these people are not so well supplied with fish as the +village which has been already described, nor do they appear to possess +the same industry. The inhabitants of the last house accompanied us in +a large canoe. They recommended us to leave ours here, as the next +village was but at a small distance from us, and the water more rapid +than that which we had passed. They informed us also, that we were +approaching a cascade. I directed them to shoot it, and proceeded +myself to the foot thereof, where I re-embarked, and we went on with +great velocity, till we came to a fall, where we left our canoe, and +carried our luggage along a road through a wood for some hundred yards, +when we came to a village, consisting of six very large houses, erected +on pallisades, rising twenty-five feet from the ground, which differed +in no one circumstance from those already described, but the height of +their elevation. They contained only four men and their families. The +rest of the inhabitants were with us and in the small houses which we +passed higher up the river.[1] These people do not seem to enjoy the +abundance of their neighbours, as the men who returned from fishing had +no more than five salmon; they refused to sell one of them, but gave me +one roasted of a very indifferent kind. In the houses there were +several chests or boxes containing different articles that belonged to +the people whom we had lately passed. If I were to judge by the heaps +of filth beneath these buildings, they must have been erected at a more +distant period than any which we had passed. From these houses I could +perceive the termination of the river, and its discharge into a narrow +arm of the sea. + +As it was now half past six in the evening, and the weather cloudy, I +determined to remain here for the night, and for that purpose we +possessed ourselves of one of the unoccupied houses. The remains of our +last meal, which we brought with us, served for our supper, as we could +not procure a single fish from the natives. The course of the river is +about West, and the distance from the great village upwards of +thirty-six miles.--There we had lost our dog, a circumstance of no +small regret to me. + + +_Saturday, 20._--We rose at a very early hour this morning, when I +proposed to the Indians to run down our canoe, or procure another at +this place. To both these proposals they turned a deaf ear, as they +imagined that I should be satisfied with having come in sight of the +sea. Two of them peremptorily refused to proceed; but the other two +having consented to continue with us, we obtained a larger canoe than +our former one, and though it was in a leaky state we were glad to +possess it. + +At about eight we got out of the river, which discharges itself by +various channels into an arm of the sea. The tide was out, and had left +a large space covered with sea-weed. The surrounding hills were +involved in fog. The wind was at West, which was ahead of us, and very +strong; the bay appearing to be from one to three miles in breadth. As +we advanced along the land we saw a great number of sea-otters. We +fired several shots at them, but without any success from the rapidity +with which they plunge under the water. We also saw many small +porpoises or divers. The white-headed eagle, which is common in the +interior parts; some small gulls, a dark bird which is inferior in size +to the gull, and a few small ducks, were all the birds which presented +themselves to our view. + +At two in the afternoon the swell was so high, and the wind, which was +against us, so boisterous, that we could not proceed with our leaky +vessel, we therefore landed in a small cove on the right side of the +bay. Opposite to us appeared another small bay, in the mouth of which +is an island, and where, according to the information of the Indians, a +river discharges itself that abounds in salmon. + +Our young Indians now discovered a very evident disposition to leave us; +and, in the evening, one of them made his escape. Mr. Mackay, however, +with the other, pursued and brought him back; but as it was by no means +necessary to detain him, particularly as provisions did not abound with +us, I gave him a small portion, with a pair of shoes, which were +necessary for his journey, and a silk handkerchief, telling him at the +same time, that he might go and inform his friends, that we should also +return in three nights. He accordingly left us, and his companion, the +young chief, went with him. + +When we landed, the tide was going out, and at a quarter past four it +was ebb, the water having fallen in that short period eleven feet and an +half. Since we left the river, not a quarter of an hour had passed in +which we did not see porpoises and sea-otters. Soon after ten it was +high water, and rendered it necessary that our baggage should be shifted +several times, though not till some of the things had been wetted. + +We were now reduced to the necessity of looking out for fresh water, +with which we were plentifully supplied by the rills that ran down from +the mountains. + +When it was dark the young chief returned to us, bearing a large +porcupine on his back. He first cut the animal open, and having +disencumbered it of the entrails, threw them into the sea; he then +singed its skin, and boiled it in separate pieces, as our kettle was not +sufficiently capacious to contain the whole; nor did he go to rest, till +with the assistance of two of my people who happened to be awake, every +morsel of it was devoured. + +I had flattered myself with the hope of getting a distance of the moon +and stars, but the cloudy weather continually disappointed me, and I +began to fear that I should fail in this important object; particularly +as our provisions were at a very low ebb, and we had, as yet, no reason +to expect any assistance from the natives. Our stock was, at this time, +reduced to twenty pounds weight of pemmican, fifteen pounds of rice, and +six pounds of flour, among ten half-starved men, in a leaky vessel, and +on a barbarous coast. Our course from the river was about West-South-West, +distance ten miles. + + +_Sunday, 21._--At forty minutes past four this morning it was low +water, which made fifteen feet of perpendicular height below the +high-water mark of last night. Mr. Mackay collected a quantity of small +muscles which we boiled. Our people did not partake of this regale, as +they are wholly unacquainted with sea shell-fish. Our young chief being +missing, we imagined that he had taken his flight, but, as we were +preparing to depart, he fortunately made his appearance from the woods, +where he had been to take his rest after his feast of last night. + +At six we were upon the water, when we cleared the small bay, which we +named Porcupine Cove, and steered West-South-West for seven miles, we +then opened a channel about two miles and a half wide at +South-South-West, and had a view of ten or twelve miles into it. + +As I could not ascertain the distance from the open sea, and being +uncertain whether we were in a bay or among inlets and channels of +islands, I confined my search to a proper place for taking an +observation. We steered, therefore, along the land on the left, +West-North-West a mile and a half; then North-West one fourth of a mile, +and North three miles to an island the land continuing to run +North-North-West, then along the island, South-South-West half a mile, +West a mile and a half, and from thence directly across to the land on +the left, (where I had an altitude,) South-West three miles.[2] From +this position a channel, of which the island we left appeared to make a +check, bears North by East. + +Under the land we met with three canoes, with fifteen men in them, and +laden with their moveables, as if proceeding to a new situation, or +returning to a former one. They manifested no kind of mistrust or fear +of us, but entered into conversation with our young man, as I supposed, +to obtain some information concerning us. It did not appear that they +were the same people as those we had lately seen, as they spoke the +language of our young chief, with a different accent. They then +examined everything we had in our canoe, with an air of indifference and +disdain. One of them in particular made me understand, with an air of +insolence, that a large canoe had lately been in this bay, with people +in her like me, and that one of them, whom he called _Macubah_ had fired +on him and his friends, and that _Bensins_ had struck him on the back, +with the flat part of his sword. He also mentioned another name, the +articulation of which I could not determine. At the same time he +illustrated these circumstances by the assistance of my gun and sword; +and I do not doubt but he well deserved the treatment which he +described. He also produced several European articles, which could +not have been long in his possession. From his conduct and appearance, +I wished very much to be rid of him, and flattered myself that he would +prosecute his voyage, which appeared to be in an opposite direction to +our course. + +However, when I prepared to part from them, they turned their canoes +about, and persuaded my young man to leave me, which I could not +prevent. + +We coasted along the land[3] at about West-South-West for six miles, and +met a canoe with two boys in it, who were dispatched to summon the +people on that part of the coast to join them. The troublesome fellow +now forced himself into my canoe, and pointed out a narrow channel on +the opposite shore, that led to his village, and requested us to steer +towards it, which I accordingly ordered. His importunities now became +very irksome, and he wanted to see everything we had, particularly my +instruments, concerning which he must have received information from my +young man. He asked for my hat, my handkerchief, and in short, +everything that he saw about me. At the same time he frequently +repeated the unpleasant intelligence that he had been shot at by people +of my colour. At some distance from the land a channel opened to us, at +South-West by West, and pointing that way, he made me understand that +_Macubah_ came there with his large canoe. When we were in mid-channel, +I perceived some sheds, or the remains of old buildings on the shore; +and as, from that circumstance I thought it probable that some Europeans +might have been there I directed my steersman to make for that spot. +The traverse is upwards of three miles North-West. + +We landed, and found the ruins of a village, in a situation calculated +for defence. The place itself was overgrown with weeds, and in the +centre of the houses there was a temple, of the same form and +construction as that which I described at the large village. We were +soon followed by ten canoes, each of which contained from three to six +men. They informed us that we were expected at the village, where we +should see many of them. From their general deportment I was very +apprehensive that some hostile design was meditated against us, and for +the first time I acknowledged my apprehensions to my people. I +accordingly desired them to be very much upon their guard, and to be +prepared if any violence was offered to defend themselves to the last. + +We had no sooner landed, than we took possession of a rock, where there +was not space for more than twice our number, and, which admitted of our +defending ourselves with advantage, in case we should be attacked. The +people in the three first canoes, were the most troublesome, but, after +doing their utmost to irritate us, they went away. + +They were, however, no sooner gone, than a hat, a handkerchief, and +several other articles, were missing. The rest of our visitors +continued their pressing invitations to accompany them to their village, +but finding our resolution to decline them was not to be shaken, they, +about sun-set relieved us from all further importunities, by their +departure. + +Another canoe, however, soon arrived, with seven stout, well-looking +men. They brought a box, which contained a very fine sea-otter skin, +and a goat skin that was beautifully white. For the former they +demanded my hanger, which, as may well be supposed, could not be spared +in our present situation, and they actually refused to take a yard and a +half of common broad cloth, with some other articles, for the skin, +which proves the unreflecting improvidence of our European traders. The +goat-skin was so bulky that I did not offer to purchase it. These men +also told me that _Macubah_ had been there, and left his ship behind a +point of land in the channel, South-West from us; from whence he had +come to their village in boats, which these people represented by +imitating our manner of rowing. When I offered them what they did not +choose to accept for the otter-skin, they shook their heads, and very +distinctly answered, "No, no." And to mark their refusal of anything we +asked from them, they emphatically employed the same British +monosyllable. In one of the canoes which had left us, there was a seal, +that I wished to purchase, but could not persuade the natives to part +with it. They had also a fish, which I now saw for the first time. It +was about eighteen inches in length, of the shape and appearance of a +trout, with strong sharp teeth. We saw great numbers of the animals +which we had taken for sea-otters, but I was new disposed to think that +a great part of them, at least, must have been seals. The natives +having left us, we made a fire to warm ourselves, and as for supper, +there was but little of that, for our whole daily allowance did not +amount to what was sufficient for a single meal. The weather was clear +throughout the day, which was succeeded by a fine moon-light night. I +directed the people to keep watch by two in turn, and laid myself down +on my cloak. + + +_Monday, 22._---This morning the weather was clear and pleasant; nor had +anything occurred to disturb us throughout the night. One solitary +Indian, indeed, came to us with about half a pound of boiled seal's +flesh, and the head of a small salmon, for which he asked a +handkerchief, but afterwards accepted a few beads. As this man came +alone, I concluded that no general plan had been formed among the +natives to annoy us, but this opinion did not altogether calm the +apprehensions of my people. + +Soon after eight in the morning, I took five altitudes for time, and the +mean of them was 36° 48' at six in the afternoon, 58. 34. time, by the +watch, which makes the achrometer slow apparent time 1h 21m 44s. + +Two canoes now arrived from the same quarter as the rest, with several +men, and our young Indian along with them. They brought a very few +small sea-otter skins, out of season, with some pieces of raw seal's +flesh. The former were of no value, but hunger compelled some of my +people to take the latter, at an extravagant price. Mr. Mackay lighted +a bit of touch-wood with a burning-glass, in the cover of his +tobacco-box, which so surprised the natives, that they exchanged the +best of their otter skins for it. The young man was now very anxious to +per suede our people to depart, as the natives, he said, were as +numerous as musquitoes, and of very malignant character. This +information produced some very earnest remonstrances to me to hasten our +departure, but as I was determined not to leave this place, except I was +absolutely compelled to it, till I had ascertained its situation, these +solicitations were not repeated. + +While I was taking a meridian, two canoes, of a larger size, and well +manned, appeared from the main South-West channel. They seemed to be +the fore-runners of others, who were coming to co-operate with the +people of the village, in consequence of the message sent by the two +boys, which has been already mentioned; and our young Indian, who +understood them, renewed his entreaties for our departure, as they would +soon come to shoot their arrows, and hurl their spears at us. In +relating our dangers his agitation was so violent, that he foamed at the +mouth. Though I was not altogether free from apprehensions on the +occasion, it was necessary for me disguise them, as my people were panic +struck, and some of them asked if it was my determination to remain +there to be sacrificed? My reply was the same as their former +importunities had received, that I would not stir till I had +accomplished my object; at the same time, to humour their fears, I +consented that they should put everything into the canoe, that we might +be in a state of preparation to depart. The two canoes now approached +the shore, and in a short time, five men, with their families, landed +very quietly from them. My instruments being exposed, they examined +them with much apparent admiration and astonishment. My altitude, by an +artificial horizon, gave 52° 21' 33"; that by the natural horizon was +52° 20' 48" North latitude.[4] + +These Indians were of a different tribe from those which I had already +seen, as our guide did not understand their language. I now mixed up +some vermilion in melted grease, and inscribed, in large characters, on +the South-East face of the rock on which we had slept last night, this +brief memorial--"Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the +twenty-second of July, one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three." + +As I thought that we were too near the village, I consented to leave +this place, and accordingly proceeded North-East three miles, when we +landed on a point, in a small cove, where we should not be readily seen, +and could not be attacked except in our front. + +Among other articles that had been stolen from us, at our last station, +was a sounding-line, which I intended to have employed in this bay, though +I should not probably have found the bottom, at any distance from the +shore, as the appearance both of the water and land indicated a great +depth. The latter displayed a solid rock, rising as it appeared to me, +from three to seven hundred feet above high water mark. Where any soil +was scattered about, there were cedars, spruce-firs, white birch, and +other trees of large growth. From its precipices issued streams of fine +water, as cold as ice. + +The two canoes which we had left at our last station, followed us +hither, and when they were preparing to depart, our young chief embarked +with them. I was determined, however, to prevent his escape, and +compelled him, by animal force, to come on shore, for I thought it much +better to incur his displeasure than to suffer him to expose himself to +any untoward accident among strangers, or to return to his father before +us. The men in the canoe made signs for him to go over the hill, and +that they would take him on board at the other side of it. As I was +necessarily engaged in other matters, I desired my people to take care +that he should not run away; but they peremptorily refused to be +employed in keeping him against his will. I was, therefore, reduced to +the necessity of watching him myself. + +I took five altitudes, and the mean of them was 29. 23. 48, at +3. 5. 53. in the afternoon, by the watch, which makes it slow apparent +time. + + 1h 22m 38s + In the forenoon} 1 21 44 2 44 22 + it was } + ---------- ---------- + Mean of both 1 22 11 + + Difference of nine hours go- } 8 + ing of the time-piece slow } + 1 22 19 + +I observed an emersion of Jupiter's third satellite, which gave 8° 32' +21. difference of longitude. I then observed an emersion of Jupiter's +first satellite, which gave 8° 31' 48. The mean of these observations +is 8° 32' 2. which is equal to 128. 2. West of Greenwich. + +I had now determined my situation, which is the most fortunate +circumstance of my long, painful, and perilous journey, as a few cloudy +days would have prevented me from ascertaining the final longitude of +it.[5] + +At twelve it was high water, but the tide did not come within a foot and +an half of the high water mark of last night. As soon as I had +completed my observations, we left this place: it was then ten o'clock +in the afternoon. We returned the same way that we came, and though the +tide was running out very strong, by keeping close in with the rocks, we +proceeded at a considerable rate, as my people were very anxious to get +out of the reach of the inhabitants of this coast. + + +_Tuesday, 23._--During our course we saw several fires on the land to +the Southward, and after the day dawned, their smokes were visible. At +half past four this morning we arrived at our encampment of the night of +the 21st, which had been named Porcupine Cove. The tide was out, and +considerably lower than we found it when we were here before; the +high-water mark being above the place where we had made our fire. This +fluctuation must be occasioned by the action of the wind upon the water, +in those narrow channels. + +As we continued onwards, towards the river, we saw a canoe, well manned, +which at first made from us with great expedition, but afterwards +waited, as if to reconnoitre us; however, it kept out of our way, and +allowed us to pass. The tide being much lower than when we were here +before, we were under the necessity of landing a mile below the village. +We observed that stakes were fixed in the ground along the bay, and in +some places machines were fastened to them, as I afterwards learned, to +intercept the seals and otters. These works are very extensive, and +must have been erected with no common labour. The only bird we saw +to-day was the white headed eagle.[6] + +Our guide directed us to draw the canoe out of the reach of the tide and +to leave it. He would not wait, however, till this operation was +performed, and I did not wish to let him go alone. I therefore followed +him through a bad road encumbered with under-wood. When we had quitted +the wood, and were in sight of the houses, the young man being about +fifteen or twenty paces before me, I was surprised to see two men +running down towards me from one of the houses, with daggers in their +hands and fury in their aspect. From their hostile appearance, I could +not doubt of their purpose. I therefore stopped short, threw down my +cloak, and put myself in a posture of defence, with my gun presented +towards them. Fortunately for me, they knew the effect of firearms, and +instantly dropped their daggers, which were fastened by a string to +their wrists, and had before been held in a menacing attitude. I let my +gun also fall into my left hand, and drew my hanger. Several others +soon joined them, who were armed in the same manner; and among them I +recognised the man whom I have already mentioned as being so troublesome +to us, and who now repeated the names of Macuba and Benzins, signifying +at the same time by his action, as on a former occasion, that he had +been shot at by them. Until I saw him my mind was undisturbed; but the +moment he appeared, conceiving that he was the cause of my present +perilous situation, my resentment predominated, and if he had come +within my reach, I verily believe, that I should have terminated his +insolence forever. + +The rest now approached so near, that one of them contrived to get +behind me, and grasped me in his arms. I soon disengaged myself from +him; and, that he did not avail himself of the opportunity which he had +of plunging his dagger into me, I cannot conjecture. They certainly +might have overpowered me, and though I should probably have killed one +or two of them, I must have fallen at last. + +One of my people now came out of the wood. On his appearance they +instantly took to flight, and with the utmost speed sought shelter in +the houses from whence they had issued. It was, however, upwards of ten +minutes before all my people joined me; and as they came one after the +other, these people might have successively dispatched every one of us. +If they had killed me, in the first instance, this consequence would +certainly have followed, and not one of us would have returned home to +tell the horrid fate of his companions. + +After having stated the danger I had encountered, I told my people that +I was determined to make these natives feel the impropriety of their +conduct toward us, and compel them to return my hat and cloak which they +had taken in the scuffle, as well as the articles previously purloined +from us, for most of the men who were in the three canoes that we first +saw, were now in the village. I therefore told my men to prime their +pieces afresh, and prepare themselves for an active use of them, if the +occasion should require it. We now drew up before the house, and made +signs for some one to come down to us. At length our young chief +appeared, and told us that the men belonging to the canoes had not only +informed his friends, that we had treated him very ill, but that we had +killed four of their companions whom he had met in the bay. When I had +explained to them as well as it was in my power, the falsehood of such a +story, I insisted on the restoration of everything that had been taken +from us, as well as a necessary supply of fish, as the conditions of my +departure; accordingly the things were restored, and a few dried fish +along with them. A reconciliation now took place, but our guide or +young chief was so much terrified that he would remain no longer with +us, and requested us to follow with his father's canoe, or mischief +would follow. I determined, however, before my departure, to take an +observation, and at noon got a meridian altitude, making this place, +which I named Rascal's Village, 52. 23. 43. North latitude. + +On my informing the natives that we wanted something more to eat, they +brought us two salmon; and when we signified that we had no poles to set +the canoe against the current, they were furnished with equal alacrity, +so anxious were they for our departure. I paid, however, for everything +which we had received, and did not forget the loan of the canoe. + +[1] Mr. Johnstone came to these houses the first day of the preceding +month. + +[2] The Cape or Point Menzies of Vancouver. + +[3] Named by Vancouver King's Island. + +[4] This I found to be the cheek of Vancouver's Cascade Canal. + +[5] Mr. Meares was undoubtedly wrong in the idea, so earnestly insisted +on by him, in his voyage, that there was was North-West practicable +passage to the Southward of sixty-nine degrees and an half of latitude, +as I flatter myself has been proved by my former voyage. Nor can I +refrain from expressing my surprise at his assertion, that there was an +inland sea or archipelago of great extent between the islands of Nootka +and the main, about the latitude where I was at this time. Indeed I +have been informed that Captain Grey, who commanded an American vessel, +and on whose authority he ventured this opinion, denies that he had +given Mr. Meares any such information. Besides, the contrary is +indubitably proved by Captain Vancouver's survey, from which no appeal +can be made. + +[6] This bay was now named Mackenzie's Outlet. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +JULY, 1793. + +The current of the river was so strong, that I should have complied with +the wishes of my people, and gone by land, but one of my Indians was so +weak, that it was impossible for him to perform the journey. He had +been ill some time; and, indeed, we had been all of us more or less +afflicted with colds on the sea coast. Four of the people therefore set +of with the canoe, and it employed them an hour to get half a mile. In +the mean time the native, who has been already mentioned as having +treated us with so much insolence, and four of his companions, went up +the river in a canoe, which they had above the rapid, with as many boxes +as men in her. This circumstance was the cause of fresh alarm, as it +was generally concluded that they would produce the same mischief and +danger in the villages above, as they had in that below. Nor was it +forgotten that the young chief had left us in a manner which would not +be interpreted in our favour by his father and friends. + +At length the canoe arrived, and the people declared in the most +unreserved terms, that they would proceed no further in her; but when +they were made acquainted with the circumstances which have just been +described, their violence increased, and the greater part of the men +announced their determination to attempt the mountains, and endeavour, +by passing over them, to gain the road by which we came to the first +village. So resolved were they to pursue this plan, that they threw +everything which they had into the river, except their blankets. I was +all this time sitting patiently on a stone, and indulging the hope that, +when their frantic terror had subsided, their returning reason would +have disposed them to perceive the rashness of their project; but when I +observed that they persisted in it, I no longer remained a silent +listener to their passionate declarations, but proceeded to employ such +arguments as I trusted would turn them from their senseless and +impracticable purpose. After reproving my young Indian in very severe +terms, for encouraging the rest to follow their mad design of passing +the mountains, I addressed myself generally to them, stating the +difficulty of ascending the mountains, the eternal snows with which they +were covered, our small stock of provisions, which two days would +exhaust, and the consequent probability that we should perish with cold +and hunger. I urged the folly of being affected by the alarm of danger +which might not exist, and if it did, I encouraged them with the means +we possessed of surmounting it. Nor did I forget to urge the inhumanity +and injustice of leaving the poor sick Indian to languish and die. I +also added, that as my particular object had been accomplished, I had +now no other but our common safety; that the sole wish of my heart was +to employ the best means in my power, and to pursue the best method +which my understanding could suggest, to secure them and myself from +every danger that might impede our return. + +My steersman, who had been with me for five years in that capacity, +instantly replied that he was ready to follow me wherever I should go, +but that he would never again enter that canoe, as he had solemnly sworn +he would not, while he was in the rapid. His example was followed by +all the rest, except two, who embarked with Mr. Mackay,[1] myself, and +the sick Indian. The current, however, was so strong, that we dragged +up the greatest part of the way, by the branches of trees. Our +progress, as may be imagined, was very tedious, and attended with +uncommon labour; the party who went by land being continually obliged to +wait for us. Mr. Mackay's gun was carried out of the canoe and lost, at +a time when we appeared to stand in very great need of it, as two +canoes, with sixteen or eighteen men, were coming down the stream; and +the apprehensions which they occasioned did not subside till they shot +by us with great rapidity. + +At length we came in sight of the house, when we saw our young Indian +with six others, in a canoe coming to meet us. This was a very +encouraging circumstance, as it satisfied us that the natives who had +preceded, and whose malignant designs we had every reason to suspect, +had not been able to prejudice the people against us. We, therefore, +landed at the house, where we were received in a friendly manner, and +having procured some fish, we proceeded on our journey. + +It was almost dark when we arrived at the next house, and the first +persons who presented themselves to our observation were the turbulent +Indian and his four companions. They were not very agreeable objects; +but we were nevertheless well received by the inhabitants, who presented +us with fish and berries. The Indians who had caused us so much alarm, +we now discovered to be inhabitants of the islands, and traders in +various articles, such as cedar-bark, prepared to be wove into mats, +fish-spawn, copper, iron, and beads, the latter of which they get on +their own coast. For these they receive in exchange roasted salmon, +hemlock bark cakes, and the other kind made of salmon roes, sorrel, and +bitter berries. Having procured as much fish as would serve us for our +supper, and the meals of the next day, all my people went to rest except +one, with whom I kept the first watch. + + +_Wednesday, 24._--After twelve last night, I called up Mr. Mackay, and +one of the men, to relieve us, but as a general tranquillity appeared to +prevail in the place, I recommended them to return to their rest. I was +the first awake in the morning, and sent Mr. Mackay to see if our canoe +remained where we left it; but he returned to inform me that the +Islanders had loaded it with their articles of traffic, and were ready +to depart. On this intelligence I hurried to the water side, and +seizing the canoe by the stem, I should certainly have overset it, and +turned the three men that were in it, with all their merchandise, into +the river, had not one of the people of the house, who had been very +kind to us, informed me, that this was their own canoe, and that my +guide had gone off with ours. At the same moment the other two Indians +who belonged to the party, jumped nimbly into it, and pushed off with +all the haste and hurry that their fears may be supposed to dictate. + +We now found ourselves once more without a guide or a canoe. We were, +however, so fortunate as to engage, without much difficulty, two of +these people to accompany us; as, from the strength of the current, it +would not have been possible for us to have proceeded by water without +their assistance. As the house was upon an island, we ferried over the +pedestrian party to the main bank of the river and continued our course +till our conductors came to their fishing ground, when they proposed to +land us, and our small portion of baggage; but as our companions were on +the opposite shore, we could not acquiesce, and after some time +persuaded them to proceed further with us. Soon after we met the chief +who had regaled us in our voyage down the river. He was seining between +two canoes, and had taken a considerable quantity of salmon. He took us +on board with him, and proceeded upwards with great expedition. These +people are surprisingly skilful and active in setting against a strong +current. In the roughest part they almost filled the canoe with water, +by way of a sportive alarm to us. + +We landed at the house of the chief, and he immediately placed a fish +before me. Our people now appeared on the opposite bank, when a canoe +was sent for them. As soon as they had made their meal of fish, they +proceeded on their route, and we followed them; the chief and one of the +natives having undertaken to conduct us. + +At five in the afternoon we came to two houses, which we had not seen in +going down. They were upon an island, and I was obliged to send for the +walking party, as our conductors, from the lateness of the hour, refused +to proceed any further with us till the next day. One of our men, being +at a small distance before the others, had been attacked by a female +bear with two cubs, but another of them arrived to his rescue, and shot +her. Their fears probably prevented them from killing the two young +ones. They brought a part of the meat, but it was very indifferent. We +were informed, that our former guide, or young chief, had passed this +place, at a very early hour of the morning, on foot. + +These people take plenty of another fish, besides salmon, which weigh +from fifteen to forty pounds. This fish is broader than the salmon, of +a greyish colour, and with a hunch on its back: the flesh is white, but +neither rich nor well flavoured. Its jaw and teeth are like those of a +dog, and the latter are larger and stronger than any I had ever seen in +a fish of equal size: those in front bend inwards, like the claws of a +bird of prey. It delights in shallow water, and its native name is +Dilly. + +We received as many fish and berries from these people as completely +satisfied our appetites. The latter excelled any of the kind that we +had seen. I saw also, three kinds of gooseberries, which, as we passed +through the woods, we found in great abundance. + + +_Thursday, 25._--I arose before the sun, and the weather was very +fine. The men who were to accompany us went to visit their machines, +and brought back plenty of fish, which they strung on a rope, and left +them in the river. We now embarked thirteen in a canoe, and landed my +men on the South bank, as it would have been impracticable to have +stemmed the tide with such a load. The underwood was so thick that it +was with great difficulty they could pass through it. At nine we were +under the necessity of waiting to ferry them over a river from the +South, which is not fordable. After some time we came to two deserted +houses, at the foot of a rapid, beyond which our boatmen absolutely +refused to conduct us by water. Here was a road which led opposite to +the village. We had, however, the curiosity to visit the houses, which +were erected upon posts, and we suffered very severely for the +indulgence of it; for the doors were covered with fleas, and we were +immediately in the same condition, for which we had no remedy but to +take to the water. There was not a spot round the houses free from +grass, that was not alive, as it were, with this vermin. + +Our guides proposed to conduct us on our way, and we followed them on a +well-beaten track. They, however, went so fast, that we could not all +of us keep up with them, particularly our sick Indian, whose situation +was very embarrassing to us, and at length they contrived to escape. I +very much wished for these men to have accompanied us to the village, in +order to do away any ill impressions which might have arisen from the +young chief's report to his father, which we were naturally led to +expect would not be in our favour. + +This road conducted us through the finest wood of cedar trees that I had +ever seen. I measured several of them that were twenty-four feet in the +girth, and of a proportionate height. The alder trees are also of an +uncommon size; several of them were seven feet and an half in +circumference, and rose to forty feet without a branch; but my men +declared that they had, in their progress, seen much larger of both +kinds. The other wood was hemlock; white birch, two species of +spruce-firs, willows, &c. Many of the large cedars appeared to have +been examined, as I suppose by the natives, for the purpose of making +canoes, but finding them hollow at heart, they were suffered to stand. +There was but little underwood, and the soil was a black rich mould, +which would well reward the trouble of cultivation. From the remains of +bones on certain spots, it is probable that the natives may have +occasionally burned their dead in this wood. + +As it was uncertain what our reception might be at the village, I +examined every man's arms and ammunition, and gave Mr. Mackay, who had +unfortunately lost his gun, one of my pistols. Our late conductors had +informed us that the man whom we left in a dying state, and to whom I +had administered some Turlington's balsam, was dead; and it was by no +means improbable that I might be suspected of hastening his end. + +At one in the afternoon we came to the bank of the river, which was +opposite to the village, which appeared to be in a state of perfect +tranquillity. Several of the natives were fishing above and below the +weir, and they very readily took us over in their canoes. The people +now hurried down to the water side, but I perceived none of the chief's +family among them. They made signs to me to go to his house; I +signified to them not to crowd about us, and indeed drew a line, beyond +which I made them understand they must not pass. I now directed +Mr. Mackay, and the men to remain there, with their arms in readiness, +and to keep the natives at a distance, as I was determined to go alone +to the chief's house; and if they should hear the report of my pistols, +they were ordered to make the best of their way from these people, as it +would then be equally fruitless and dangerous to attempt the giving me +any assistance, as it would be only in the last extremity, and when I +was certain of their intention to destroy me, that I should discharge my +pistols. My gun I gave to Mr. Mackay, when, with my loaded pistols in +my belt, and a poignard in my hand, I proceeded to the abode of the +chief. I had a wood to pass in my way thither, which was intersected by +various paths and I took one that led to the back, instead of the front +of the house; and as the whole had been very much altered since I was +here before, I concluded that I had lost my way. But I continued to +proceed, and soon met with the chief's wife, who informed me, that he +was at the next house. On my going round it, I perceived that they had +thrown open the gable ends, and added two wings, nearly as long as the +body, both of which were hung round with salmon as close as they could +be placed. As I could discover none of the men, I sat down upon a large +stone near some women who were supping on salmon roes and berries. They +invited me to partake of their fare, and I was about to accept their +invitation when Mr. Mackay joined me, as both himself and all my party +were alarmed at my being alone. Nor was his alarm lessened by an old +man whom he met in the wood, and who made use of signs to persuade him +to return. As he came without his gun, I gave him one of my pistols. +When I saw the women continue their employment without paying the least +attention to us, I could not imagine that any hostile design was +preparing against us. Though the non-appearance of the men awakened +some degree of suspicion that I should not be received with the same +welcome as on my former visit. At length the chief appeared, and his +son, who had been our guide, following him; displeasure was painted in +the old man's countenance, and he held in his hand a bead tobacco pouch +which belonged to Mr. Mackay, and the young chief had purloined from +him. When he had approached within three or four yards of me, he threw +it at me with great indignation, and walked away. I followed him, +however, until he had passed his son, whom I took by the hand, but he +did not make any very cordial return to my salutation; at the same time +he made signs for me to discharge my pistol, and give him my hanger +which Mr. Mackay had brought me, but I did not pay the least attention +to either of his demands. + +We now joined the chief, who explained to me that he was in a state of +deep distress for the loss of his son, and made me understand that he +had cut off his hair and blackened his face on the melancholy occasion. +He also represented the alarm which he had suffered respecting his son +who had accompanied us; as he apprehended we had killed him, or had all +of us perished together. When he had finished his narrative, I took him +and his son by their hands, and requested them to come with me to the +place where I had left my people, who were rejoiced to see us return, +having been in a state of great anxiety from our long absence. I +immediately remunerated the young chief for his company and assistance +in our voyage to the sea, as well as his father, for his former +attentions. I gave them cloth and knives, and, indeed, a portion of +everything which now remained to us. The presents had the desired +effect of restoring us to their favour; but these people are of so +changeable a nature, that there is no security with them. I procured +three robes and two otter-skins, and if I could have given such articles +in exchange as they preferred, I should probably have obtained more. I +now represented the length of the way which I had to go, and requested +some fish to support us on our journey, when he desired us to follow him +to the house, where mats were immediately arranged and a fish placed +before each of us. + +We were now informed, that our dog, whom we had lost, had been howling +about the village ever since we left it, and that they had reason to +believe he left the woods at night to eat the fish he could find about +the houses. I immediately dispatched Mr. Mackay, and a man, in search +of the animal, but they returned without him. + +When I manifested my intention to proceed on my journey, the chief +voluntarily sent for ten roasted salmon, and having attended us with his +son, and a great number of his people, to the last house in the village, +we took our leave. It was then half past three in the afternoon. + +I directed Mr. Mackay to take the lead, and the others to follow him in +Indian files, at a long and steady pace, as I determined to bring up the +rear. I adopted this measure from a confusion that was observable among +the natives which I did not comprehend. I was not without my suspicions +that some mischief was in agitation, and they were increased from the +confused noise we heard in the village. At the same time a considerable +number came running after us; some of them making signs for us to stop, +and others rushing by me. I perceived also, that those who followed us +were the strangers who live among these people, and are kept by them in +a state of awe and subjection; and one of them made signs to me that we +were taking a wrong road. I immediately called out to Mr. Mackay to +stop. This was naturally enough taken for an alarm, and threw my people +into great disorder. When, however, I was understood, and we had +mustered again, our Indian informed us, that the noise we heard was +occasioned by a debate among the natives, whether they should stop us or +not. When, therefore, we had got into the right road, I made such +arrangements as might be necessary for our defence, if we should have an +experimental proof that our late and fickle friends were converted into +enemies. + +Our way was through a forest of stately cedars, beneath a range of lofty +hills, covered with rocks, and without any view of the river. The path +was well beaten, but rendered incommodious by the large stones which lay +along it. + +As we were continuing our route, we all felt the sensation of having +found a lost friend at the sight of our dog; but he appeared, in a great +degree, to have lost his former sagacity. He ran in a wild way +backwards and forwards; and though he kept our road, I could not induce +him to acknowledge his master. Sometimes he seemed disposed to approach +as if he knew us; and then, on a sudden, he would turn away, as if +alarmed at our appearance. The poor animal was reduced almost to a +skeleton, and we occasionally dropped something to support him, and by +degrees he recovered his former sagacity. + +When the night came on we stopped at a small distance from the river, +but did not venture to make a fire. Every man took his tree, and laid +down in his clothes, and with his arms, beneath the shade of its +branches. We had removed to a short distance from the path; no sentinel +was now appointed, and every one was left to watch for his own safety. + + +_Friday, 26._--After a very restless, though undisturbed night, we set +forward as soon as day appeared, and walked on with all possible +expedition, till we got to the upper, which we now called Friendly +Village, and was the first we visited on our outward journey. + +It was eight in the morning of a very fine day when we arrived, and +found a very material alteration in the place since we left it. Five +additional houses had been erected and were filled with salmon: the +increase of inhabitants was in the same proportion. We were received +with great kindness, and a messenger was dispatched to inform the chief, +whose name was Soocomlick, and who was then at his fishing-weir, of our +arrival. He immediately returned to the village to confirm the cordial +reception of his people; and having conducted us to his house, +entertained us with the most respectful hospitality. In short, he +behaved to us with so much attention and kindness, that I did not +withhold anything in my power to give, which might afford him +satisfaction. I presented him with two yards of blue cloth, an axe, +knives, and various other articles. He gave me in return a large shell +which resembled the under shell of a Guernsey oyster, but somewhat +larger. Where they procured them I could not discover, but they cut and +polish them for bracelets, ear-rings, and other personal ornaments. He +regretted that he had no sea-otter skins to give me, but engaged to +provide abundance of them whenever either my friends or myself should +return by sea; an expectation which I thought it right to encourage +among these people. He also earnestly requested me to bring him a gun +and ammunition. I might have procured many curious articles at this +place, but was prevented by the consideration that we must have carried +them on our backs upwards of three hundred miles through a mountainous +country. The young chief, to his other acts of kindness, added as large +a supply of fish as we choose to take. + +Our visit did not occasion any particular interruption of the ordinary +occupation of the people; especially of the women, who were employed in +boiling sorrel, and different kinds of berries, with salmon-roes, in +large square kettles of cedar wood. This pottage, when it attained a +certain consistency, they took out with ladles, and poured it into +frames of about twelve inches square and one deep, the bottom being +covered with a large leaf, which were then exposed to the sun till their +contents became so many dried cakes. The roes that are mixed up with +the bitter berries, are prepared in the same way. From the quantity of +this kind of provision, it must be a principal article of food, and +probably of traffic. These people have also portable chests of cedar, +in which they pack them, as well as their salmon, both dried and +roasted. It appeared to me that they eat no flesh, except such as the +sea may afford them, as that of the sea-otter and the seal. The only +instance we observed to the contrary, was in a young Indian who +accompanied us among the islands, and has been already mentioned as +feasting on the flesh of a porcupine; whether this be their custom +throughout the year, or only during the season of the salmon fishery; +or, whether there were any castes of them, as in India, I cannot pretend +to determine. It is certain, however, that they are not hunters, and I +have already mentioned the abhorrence they expressed at some venison +which we brought to their village. During our former visit to these +people, they requested us not to discharge our fire-arms, lest the +report should frighten away the salmon, but now they expressed a wish +that I should explain the use and management of them. Though their +demeanour to us was of the most friendly nature, and they appeared +without any arms, except a few who accidentally had their daggers, I did +not think it altogether prudent to discharge our pieces; I therefore +fired one of my pistols at a tree marked for the purpose, when I put +four out of five buck shot with which it was loaded, into the circle, to +their extreme astonishment and admiration. + +These people were in general of the middle stature, well set, and better +clothed with flesh than any of the natives of the interior country. +Their faces are round, with high cheek bones, and their complexion +between the olive and the copper. They have small grey eyes, with a +tinge of red; they have wedge heads, and their hair is of a dark brown +colour, inclining to black. Some wear it long, keep it well combed, and +let it hang loose over their shoulders, while they divide and tie it in +knots over the temples. Others arrange its plaits, and bedaub it with +brown earth, so as to render it impervious to the comb; they, therefore, +carry a bodkin about them to ease the frequent irritation, which may be +supposed to proceed from such a state of the head. The women are +inclined to be fat, wear their hair short, and appear to be very subject +to swelled legs, a malady that probably proceeds from the posture in +which they are always sitting: as they are chiefly employed in the +domestic engagements of spinning, weaving, preparing the fish, and +nursing their children, which did not appear to be numerous. Their +cradle differed from any that I had seen; it consisted of a frame fixed +round a board of sufficient length, in which the child, after it has +been swathed, is placed on a bed of moss, and a conductor contrived to +carry off the urinary discharge. They are slung over one shoulder by +means of a cord fastened under the other, so that the infant is always +in a position to be readily applied to the breast, when it requires +nourishment. I saw several whose heads were inclosed in boards covered +with leather, till they attain the form of a wedge. The women wear no +clothing but the robe, either loose or tied round the middle with a +girdle, as the occasion may require, with the addition of a fringed +apron, already mentioned, and a cap, in the form of an inverted bowl or +dish. To the robe and cap, the men add, when it rains, a circular mat +with an opening in the middle sufficient to admit the head, which +extending over the shoulders, throws off the wet. They also +occasionally wear shoes of dressed moose-skin, for which they are +indebted to their neighbors. Those parts, which among all civilized +nations are covered from familiar view, are here openly exposed. + +They are altogether dependent on the sea and rivers for their +sustenance, so that they may be considered as a stationary people; hence +it is that the men engage in those toilsome employments, which the +tribes who support themselves by the chase, leave entirely to the women. +Polygamy is permitted among them, though, according to my observation, +most of the men were satisfied with one wife, with whom, however, +chastity is not considered as a necessary virtue. I saw but one woman +whose under lip was split and disfigured with an appendant ornament. +The men frequently bathe, and the boys are continually in the water. +They have nets and lines of various kinds and sizes, which are made of +cedar bark, and would not be known from those made of hemp. Their hooks +consist of two pieces of wood or bone, forming when fixed together, an +obtuse angle. + +Their spears or darts are from four to sixteen feet in length; the barb +or point being fixed in a socket, which, when the animal is struck, +slips from it: thus the barb being fastened by a string to the handle, +remains as a buoy; or enables the aquatic hunter to tire and take his +prey. They are employed against sea-otters, seals, and large fish. + +Their hatchets are made principally of about fourteen inches of +bar-iron, fixed into a wooden handle, as I have already described them; +though they have some of bone or horn: with these, a mallet and wooden +wedge, they hew their timbers and form their planks. They must also +have other tools with which they complete and polish their work, but my +stay was so short, my anxiety so great, and my situation so critical, +that many circumstances may be supposed to have escaped me. + +Their canoes are made out of the cedar tree, and will carry from eight +to fifty persons. + +Their warlike weapons, which, as far as I could judge, they very seldom +have occasion to employ, are bows and arrows, spears, and daggers. The +arrows are such as have been already described, but rather of a slighter +make. The bows are not more than two feet and an half in length; they +are formed of a slip of red cedar; the grain being on one side untouched +with any tool, while the other is secured with sinews 'attached to it by +a kind of glue. Though this weapon has a very slender appearance, it +throws an arrow with great force, and to a considerable distance. Their +spears are about ten feet long, and pointed with iron. Their daggers +are of various kinds, being of British, Spanish, and American +Manufacture. + +Their household furniture consists of boxes, troughs, and dishes formed +of wood, with different vessels made of watape. These are employed, +according to their several applications, to contain their valuables, and +provisions, as well as for culinary purposes, and to carry water. The +women make use of muscle-shells to split and clean their fish, and which +are very well adapted to that purpose. + +Their ornaments are necklaces, collars, bracelets for the arms, wrists, +and legs, with ear-rings, &c. + +They burn their dead, and display their mourning, by cutting their hair +short, and blackening their faces. Though I saw several places where +bodies had been burned, I was surprised at not seeing any tomb or +memorial of the dead, particularly when their neighbours are so +superstitiously attentive to the erection and preservation of them. + +From the number of their canoes, as well as the quantity of their chests +and boxes, to contain their moveables, as well as the insufficiency of +their houses, to guard against the rigours of a severe winter, and the +appearance of the ground around their habitations, it is evident that +these people reside here only during the summer or salmon season, which +does not probably last more than three months. It may be reasonably +inferred, therefore, that they have villages on the sea-coast, which +they inhabit during the rest of the year. There it may be supposed they +leave the sick, the infirm, and the aged; and thither they may bear the +ashes of those who die at the place of their summer residence. + +Of their religion I can say but little, as my means of observation were +very contracted. I could discover, however, that they believed in a +good and evil spirit: and that they have some forms of worship to +conciliate the protection of one, and perhaps to avert the enmity of the +other, is apparent from the temples which I have described; and where, +at stated periods, it may be presumed they hold the feasts, and perform +the sacrifices, which their religion, whatever it may be, has instituted +as the ceremonials of their public worship. + +From the very little I could discover of their government, it is +altogether different from any political regulation which had been +remarked by me among the savage tribes. It is on this river alone that +one man appears to have an exclusive and hereditary right to what was +necessary to the existence of those who are associated with him. I +allude to the salmon weir, or fishing place, the sole right to which +confers on the chief an arbitrary power. Those embankments could not +have been formed without a very great and associated labour; and, as +might be supposed, on the condition that those who assisted in +constructing it should enjoy a participating right in the advantages to +be derived from it. Nevertheless, it evidently appeared to me, that the +chief's power over it, and the people, was unlimited, and without +control. No one could fish without his permission, or carry home a +larger portion of what he had caught, than was set apart for him. No +one could build a house without his consent; and all his commands +appeared to be followed with implicit obedience. The people at large +seemed to be on a perfect equality, while the strangers among them were +obliged to obey the commands of the natives in general or quit the +village. They appear to be of a friendly disposition, but they are +subject to sudden gusts of passion, which are as quickly composed; and +the transition is instantaneous, from violent irritation to the most +tranquil demeanor. Of the many tribes of savage people whom I have +seen, these appear to be the most susceptible of civilization. They +might soon be brought to cultivate the little ground about them which is +capable of it. There is a narrow border of a rich black soil, on either +side of the river, over a bed of gravel, which would yield any grain or +fruit that are common to similar latitudes in Europe. + +The very few words which I collected of their language, are as +follows:-- + + Zimilk, Salmon. + Dilly, A fish of the size of a salmon, with canine teeth. + Sepnas, Hair of the head. + Kietis, An axe. + Clougus, Eyes. + Itzas, Teeth. + Ma-acza, Nose. + Ich-yeh, Leg. + Shous-shey Hand. + Watts, Dog. + Zla-achle, House. + Zimnez, Bark mat robe. + Couloun, Beaver or otter ditto. + Dichts, Stone. + Neach, Fire. + Ulkan, Water. + Gits com, A mat. + Shiggimis, Thread. + Till-kewan, Chest or box. + Thlogatt, Cedar bark. + Achimoul, Beads got upon their coast. + Il-caiette, A bonnet. + Couny, A clam shell. + Nochasky, A dish composed of berries and salmon roes. + Caiffre, What? + +[1] It is but common justice to him, to mention in this place that I had +every reason to be satisfied with his conduct. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + +JULY, 1793. + +At eleven in the morning we left this place, which I called Friendly +Village, accompanied by every man belonging to it, who attended us about +a mile, when we took a cordial leave of them; and if we might judge from +appearances, they parted from us with regret. + +In a short time we halted to make a division of our fish, and each man +had about twenty pounds weight of it, except Mr. Mackay and myself, who +were content with shorter allowance, that we might have less weight to +carry. We had also a little flour, and some pemmican. Having completed +this arrangement with all possible expedition, we proceeded onwards, the +ground rising gradually, as we continued our route. When we were clear +of the wood, we saw the mountain towering above, and apparently of +impracticable ascent. We soon came to the fork of the river, which was +at the foot of the precipice, where the ford was three feet deep, and +very rapid. Our young Indian, though much recovered, was still too weak +to cross the water, and with some difficulty I carried him over on my +back. + +It was now one in the afternoon, and we had to ascend the summit of the +first mountain before night came on, in order to look for water. I left +the sick Indian, with his companion and one of my men, to follow us, as +his strength would permit him. The fatigue of ascending these +precipices I shall not attempt to describe, and it was past five when we +arrived at a spot where we could get water, and in such an extremity of +weariness, that it was with great pain any of us could crawl about to +gather wood for the necessary purpose of making a fire. To relieve our +anxiety, which began to increase every moment for the situation of the +Indian, about seven he and his companions arrived; when we consoled +ourselves by sitting round a blazing fire, talking of past dangers, and +indulging the delightful reflection that we were thus far advanced on +our homeward journey. Nor was it possible to be in this situation +without contemplating the wonders of it. Such was the depth of the +precipices below, and the height of the mountains above, with the rude +and wild magnificence of the scenery around, that I shall not attempt to +describe such an astonishing and awful combination of objects; of which, +indeed, no description can convey an adequate idea. Even at this place, +which is only, as it were, the first step towards gaining the summit of +the mountains, the climate was very sensibly changed. The air that +fanned the village which we left at noon, was mild and cheering; the +grass was verdant, and the wild fruits ripe around it. But here the +snow was not yet dissolved, the ground was still bound by the frost, the +herbage had scarce begun to spring, and the crowberry bushes were just +beginning to blossom. + + +_Saturday, 27._--So great was our fatigue of yesterday, that it was +late before we proceeded to return over the mountains, by the same route +which we had followed in our outward journey. There was little or no +change in the appearance of the mountains since we passed them, though +the weather was very fine. + + +_Sunday, 28._--At nine this morning we arrived at the spot, where we +slept with the natives on the 16th instant, and found our pemmican in +good condition where we had buried it. + +The latitude of this place, by observation, when I passed, I found to be +52. 46. 32. I now took time, and the distance between sun and moon. I +had also an azimuth, to ascertain the variation. + +We continued our route with fine weather, and without meeting a single +person on our way, the natives being all gone, as we supposed, to the +Great River. We recovered all our hidden stores of provisions, and +arrived about two in the afternoon of Sunday, August the 4th, at the +place which we had left a month before. + +A considerable number of Indians were encamped on the opposite side of +the small river, and in consequence of the weather, confined to their +lodges: as they must have heard of, if not seen us, and our arms being +out of order from the rain, I was not satisfied with our situation; but +did not wish to create an alarm. We, therefore, kept in the edge of the +wood, and called to them, when they turned out like so many furies, with +their arms in their hands, and threatening destruction if we dared to +approach their habitations. We remained in our station till their +passion and apprehensions had subsided, when our interpreter gave them +the necessary information respecting us. They proved to be strangers to +us, but were the relations of those whom we had already seen here, and +who, as they told us, were upon an island at some distance up the river. +A messenger was accordingly sent to inform them of our arrival. + + +_Monday, 5._--On examining the canoe, and our property, which we had +left behind, we found it in perfect safety, nor was there the print of a +foot near the spot. We now pitched our tent, and made a blazing fire, +and I treated myself, as well as the people, with a dram; but we had +been so long without tasting any spirituous liquor, that we had lost all +relish for it. The Indians now arrived from above, and were rewarded +for the care they had taken of our property with such articles as were +acceptable to them. + +At nine this morning I sent five men in the canoe, for the various +articles we had left below, and they soon returned with them, and except +some bale goods, which had got wet, they were in good order, +particularly the provisions, of which we were now in great need. + +Many of the natives arrived both from the upper and lower parts of the +river, each of whom was dressed in a beaver robe. I purchased fifteen +of them; and they preferred large knives in exchange. It is an +extraordinary circumstance, that these people, who might have taken all +the property we left behind us, without the least fear of detection, +should leave that untouched, and purloin any of our utensils, which our +confidence in their honesty gave them a ready opportunity of taking. In +fact, several articles were missing, and as I was very anxious to avoid +a quarrel with the natives, in this stage of our journey, I told those +who remained near us, without any appearance of anger, that their +relations who were gone, had no idea of the mischief that would result +to them from taking our property. I gravely added, that the salmon, +which was not only their favourite food, but absolutely necessary to +their existence, came from the see which belonged to us white men; and +that as, at the entrance of the river, we could prevent those fish from +coming up it, we possessed the power to starve them and their children. +To avert our anger, therefore, they must return all the articles that +had been stolen from us. This finesse succeeded. Messengers were +dispatched to order the restoration of everything that had been taken. +We purchased several large salmon of them and enjoyed the delicious meal +which they afforded. + +At noon this day, which I allotted for repose, I got a meridian +altitude, which gave 53. 24. 10. I also took time. The weather had been +cloudy at intervals. + +Every necessary preparation had been made yesterday for us to continue +our route to-day; but before our departure, some of the natives arrived +with part of the stolen articles; the rest, they said, had been taken by +people down the river, who would be here in the course of the morning, +and recommended their children to our commiseration, and themselves to +our forgiveness. + +The morning was cloudy, with small rain, nevertheless I ordered the men +to load the canoe, and we proceeded in high spirits on finding ourselves +once more so comfortably together in it. We landed at a house on the +first island, where we procured a few salmon, and four fine beaver +skins. There had been much more rain in these parts than in the country +above, as the water was pouring down the hills in torrents. The river +consequently rose with great rapidity, and very much impeded our +progress. + +The people on this river are generally of the middle size, though I saw +many tall men among them. In the cleanliness of their persons they +resemble rather the Beaver Indians than the Chepewyans. They are +ignorant of the use of fire arms, and their only weapons are bows and +arrows, and spears. They catch the larger animals in snares, but though +their country abounds in them, and the rivers and lakes produce plenty +of fish, they find a difficulty in supporting themselves, and are never +to be seen but in small bands of two or three families. There is no +regular government among them; nor do they appear to have a sufficient +communication or understanding with each other, to defend themselves +against an invading enemy, to whom they fall an easy prey. They have +all the animals common on the West side of the mountains, except the +buffalo and the wolf; at least we saw none of the latter, and there +being none of the former, it is evident that their progress is from the +South-East. The same language is spoken, with very little exception +from the extent of my travels down this river, and in a direct line from +the North-East head of it in the latitude 53. or 54. to Hudson's Bay; +so that a Chepewyan, from which tribe they have all sprung, might leave +Churchill River, and proceeding in every direction to the North-West of +this line without knowing any language except his own, would understand +them all: I except the natives of the sea coast, who are altogether a +different people. As to the people to the Eastward of this river, I am +not qualified to speak of them. + +At twelve we ran our canoe upon a rock, so that we were obliged to land +in order to repair the injury she had received; and as the rain came on +with great violence, we remained here for the night. The salmon were +now driving up the current in such large shoals, that the water seemed, +as it were, to be covered with the fins of them. + + +_Wednesday, 7._--About nine this morning the weather cleared, and we +embarked. The shoals of salmon continued as yesterday. There were +frequent showers throughout the day, and every brook was deluged into a +river. The water had risen at least one foot and an half perpendicular +in the last twenty-four hours. In the dusk of the evening we landed for +the night. + + +_Thursday, 8._--The water continued rising during the night; so that +we were disturbed twice in the course of it, to remove our baggage. At +six in the morning we were on our way, and proceeded with continual and +laborious exertion, from the increased rapidity of the current. After +having passed the two carrying places of Rocky Point, and the Long +Portage, we encamped for the night. + + +_Friday, 9._--We set off at five, after a rainy night and in a foggy +morning. The water still retained its height. The sun, however, soon +beamed upon us; and our clothes and baggage were in such a state that we +landed to dry them. After some time we re-embarked and arrived at our +first encampment on this river about seven in the evening. The water +fell considerably in the course of the day. + + +_Saturday, 10._--The weather was cloudy with slight showers, and at +five this morning we embarked, the water falling as fast as it had +risen. This circumstance arises from the mountainous state of the +country on either side of the river, from whence the water rushes down +almost as fast as it falls from the heavens, with the addition of the +snow it melts in its way. At eight in the evening we stopped for the +night. + + +_Sunday, 11._--At five this morning we proceeded with clear weather. +At ten we came to the foot of the long rapid, which we ascended with +poles much easier than we expected. The rapids that were so strong and +violent in our passage downwards, were now so reduced, that we could +hardly believe them to be the same. At sunset we landed and encamped. + + +_Monday, 12._--The weather was the same as yesterday, and we were on +the water at a very early hour. At nine we came to a part of the river +where there was little or no current. At noon we landed to gum the +canoe, when I took a meridian altitude, which gave 54. 11. 36. North +latitude. We continued our route nearly East, and at three in the +afternoon approached the fork, when I took time, and the distance +between the sun and moon. At four in the afternoon we left the main +branch. The current was quite slack, as the water had fallen six feet, +which must have been in the course of three days. At sunset we landed +and took our station for the night. + + +_Tuesday, 13._--There was a very heavy rain in the night, and the +morning was cloudy; we renewed our voyage, however, at a very early +hour, and came to the narrow gut between the mountains of rock, which +was a passage of some risk; but fortunately the state of the water was +such, that we got up without any difficulty, and had more time to +examine these extraordinary rocks than in our outward passage. They are +as perpendicular as a wall, and give the idea of a succession of +enormous Gothic churches. We were now closely hemmed in by the +mountains, which had lost much oh their snow since our former passage by +them. We encamped at a late hour, cold, wet, and hungry: for such was +the state of our provisions, that our necessary allowance did not answer +to the active cravings of our appetites. + + +_Wednesday, 14._--The weather was cold and raw, with small rain, but +our necessities would not suffer us to wait for a favourable change of +it, and at half past five we arrived at the swampy carrying-place, +between this branch and the small river. At three in the afternoon the +cold was extreme, and the men could not keep themselves warm even by +their violent exertions which our situation required; and I now gave +them the remainder of our rum to fortify and support them. The canoe +was so heavy that the lives of two of them were endangered in this +horrible carrying-place. At the same time it must be observed, that +from the fatiguing circumstances of our journey, and the inadequate +state of our provisions, the natural strength of the men had been +greatly diminished. We encamped on the banks of the bad river. + + +_Thursday, 15._--The weather was now clear, and the sun shone upon us. +The water was much lower than in the downward passage, but was cold as +ice, and, unfortunately, the men were obliged to be continually in it to +drag on the canoe. There were many embarras, through which a passage +might have been made, but we were under the necessity of carrying both +the canoe and baggage. + +About sun-set we arrived at our encampment of the 13th of June, where +some of us had nearly taken our eternal voyage. The legs and feet of +the men were so benumbed, that I was very apprehensive of the +consequence. The water being low, we made a search for our bag of ball, +but without success. The river was full of salmon, and another fish +like the black bass. + + +_Friday, 16._--The weather continued to be the same as yesterday, and +at two in the afternoon we came to the carrying-place which leads to the +first small lake; but it was so filled with drift wood, that a +considerable portion of time was employed in making our way through it. +We now reached the high land which separates the source of the Tacoutche +Tesse, or Columbia River, and Unjigah, or Peace River: the latter of +which, after receiving many tributary streams, passes through the great +Slave Lake, and disembogues itself in the Frozen Ocean, in latitude +69. 30. North, longitude 135 West from Greenwich; while the former, +confined by the immense mountains that run nearly parallel with the +Pacific Ocean, and keep it in a Southern course, empties itself in +46. 20. North latitude and longitude 124 West from Greenwich. + +If I could have spared the time, and had been able to exert myself, for +I was now afflicted with a swelling in my ancles, so that I could not +even walk, but with great pain and difficulty, it was my intention to +have taken some salmon alive, and colonised them in the Peace River, +though it is very doubtful whether that fish would live in waters that +have not a communication with the sea. + +Some of the inhabitants had been here since we passed; and I apprehend, +that on seeing our road through their country, they mistook us for +enemies, and had therefore deserted the place, which is a most +convenient station; as on one side, there is a great plenty of white +fish, and trout, jub, carp, &c., and on the other abundance of salmon, +and probably other fish. Several things that I had left here in +exchange for articles of which I had possessed myself, as objects of +curiosity, were taken away. The hurtle-berries were now ripe, and very +fine of their kind. + + +_Saturday, 17._--The morning was cloudy, and at five we renewed our +progress. We were compelled to carry from the lake to the Peace River, +the passage, from the falling of the water, being wholly obstructed by +drift wood. The meadow through which we passed was entirely inundated; +and from the state of my foot and ancle, I was obliged, though with +great reluctance, to submit to be carried over it. + +At half past seven we began to glide along with the current of the Peace +River; and almost at every canoe's length we perceived Beaver roads to +and from the river. At two in the afternoon, an object attracted our +notice at the entrance of a small river, which proved to be the four +beaver skins, already mentioned to have been presented to me by a +native, and left in his possession to receive them on my return. I +imagined, therefore, that being under the necessity of leaving the +river, or, perhaps, fearing to meet us again, he had taken this method +to restore them to me; and to reward his honesty, I left three times the +value of the skins in their place. The snow appeared in patches on the +mountains. At four in the afternoon we passed the place where we. +found the first natives, and landed for the night at a late hour. In +the course of the day, we caught nine outards, or Canada geese, but they +were as yet without their feathers. + + +_Sunday, 18._--As soon as it was light we proceeded on our voyage, and +drove on before the current, which was very much diminished in its +strength, since we came up it. The water indeed, was so low, that in +many parts it exposed a gravelly beach. At eleven we landed at our +encampment of the seventh of June, to gum the canoe and dry our clothes: +we then re-embarked, and at half past five arrived at the place, where I +lost my book of memorandums, on the fourth of June, in which were +certain courses and distances between that day end the twenty-sixth of +May, which I had now an opportunity to supply. They were as follows: +North-North-West half a mile, East by North half a mile, North by East a +quarter of a mile, North-West by West a quarter of a mile, +West-South-West half a mile, North-West a mile and a quarter, +North-North-West three quarters of a mile, North by East half a mile, +North-West three quarters of a mile, West half a mile, North-West three +quarters of a mile, West-North-West one mile and a quarter, North three +quarters of a mile, West by North one quarter of a mile, North-West one +mile and an half, West-North-West half a mile, North-North-West three +quarters of a mile, West one quarter of a mile, North-North-East half a +mile, North-North-West two miles, and North-West four miles. + +We were seven days in going up that part of the river which we came down +to-day; and it now swarmed, as it were, with beavers and wild fowl. +There was rain in the afternoon, and about sunset we took our station +for the night. + + +_Monday, 19._--We had some small rain throughout the night. Our +course to-day was South-South-West three quarters of a mile, +West-North-West half a mile, North half a mile, North-West by West three +quarters of a mile, North by West half a mile; a small river to the +left, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, West-North-West a +mile and an half, North-West by North four miles, a rivulet on the +right, West-North-West three quarters of a mile; a considerable river +from the left, North-North-West two miles, North half a mile, +West-North-West one mile and a half; a rivulet on the right, North-West +by West one mile and a quarter, West-North-West one mile, +West-South-West a quarter of a mile, North-North-West half a mile, +North-West half a mile, West-South-West three quarters of a mile, +North-West by West three miles, West-South-West three quarters of a +mile, North-West by West one mile; a small river on the right, +South-West a quarter of a mile, West-North-West, islands, four miles and +a half, a river on the left, North half a mile, West a quarter of a +mile, North a quarter of a mile, North-West by West three quarters of a +mile, North-North-East three quarters of a mile, North-West by North +half a mile, West-North-West a mile and an half, and North-West by North +half a mile. The mountains were covered with fresh snow, whose showers +had dissolved in rain before they reached us. North-West three quarters +of a mile, South-West a quarter of a mile, North a mile and three +quarters, West-North-West a mile and a quarter, North-West a mile and a +half, North-North-West half a mile, West-North-West a quarter of a mile, +North half a mile; here the current was sleek: North-West by North half +a mile, North-West by West a quarter of a mile, North-North-West a +quarter of a mile, North-West by West one mile and a quarter, North half +a mile, North-East by North one mile and three quarters, South-West one +mile and a quarter, with an island, North by East one mile, North-West. +Here the other branch opened to us, at the distance of three quarters of +a mile. + +I expected from the slackness of the current in this branch, that +the Western one would be high, but I found it equally low. I had every +reason to believe that from the upper part of this branch, the distance +could not be great to the country through which I passed when I left the +Great River; but it has since been determined otherwise by Mr. J. Finlay, +who was sent to explore it, and found its navigation soon terminated by +falls and rapids. + +The branches are about two hundred yards in breadth, and the water was +six feet lower than on our upward passage. Our course, after the +junction, was North-North-West one mile, the rapid North-East down it +three quarters of a mile, North by West one mile and a quarter, North by +East one mile and an half, East by South one mile, North-East two miles +and an half, East-North-East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet; East by +South one mile and an half, North-East two miles, East-North-East one +mile, North-North-East a quarter of a mile, North-East by East-half a +mile, East-South-East a quarter of a mile, East-North-East half a mile, +North-East two miles, North-East by East two miles and a quarter, +South-East by East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet from the left; East by +North a mile and an half, East by South one mile, East-North-East one +mile and three quarters; a river on the right; North-North-East three +quarters of a mile, North-East a mile and a half, North-East by East a +mile and a quarter, East-North-East half a mile, and North-East by North +half a mile. Here we landed at our encampment of the 27th of June, from +whence I dispatched a letter in an empty keg, as was mentioned in that +period of my journal, which set forth our existing state, progress, and +expectation. + + +_Tuesday, 20._--Though the weather was clear, we could not embark this +morning before five, as there was a rapid very near us, which required +daylight to run it, that we might not break our canoe on the rocks. The +baggage we were obliged to carry. Our course was North by East a mile +and an half, North-North-East a mile and a half down another rapid on +the West side; it requires great care to keep directly between the eddy +current, and that which was driving down with so much impetuosity. We +then proceeded North-North-West, a river from the right; a mile and a +quarter, North-North-East a mile and a half, a river from the left; +North one mile and three quarters, North-East two miles, North-East by +East two miles and a quarter, East by North one mile, North-East by East +four miles, a river from the left, and East by South a mile and a half. +Here was our encampment on the 26th of May, beyond which it would be +altogether superfluous for me to take the courses, as they are inserted +in their proper places. + +As we continued our voyage, our attention was attracted by the +appearance of an Indian encampment. We accordingly landed, and found +there had been five fires, and within that number of days, so that there +must have been some inhabitants in the neighbourhood, though we were not +so fortunate as to see them. It appeared that they had killed a number +of animals, and fled in a state of alarm, as three of their canoes were +left carelessly on the beach, and their paddles laying about in +disorder. We soon after came to the carrying-place called the Portage +de la Montagne de Roche. Here I had a meridian altitude, which made the +latitude 56. 3. 51. North. + +The water, as I have already observed, was much lower than when we came +up it, though at the same time the current appeared to be stronger from +this place to the forks; the navigation, however, would now be attended +with greater facility, as there is a stony beach all the way, so that +poles, or the towing-line, may be employed with the best effect, where +the current overpowers the use of paddles. + +We were now reduced to a very short allowance; the disappointment, +therefore, at not seeing any animals was proportioned to our exigencies, +as we did not possess at this time more than was sufficient to serve us +for two meals. I now dispatched Mr. Mackay and the Indians to proceed +to the foot of the rapids, and endeavour in their way to procure some +provisions, while I prepared to employ the utmost expedition in getting +there; having determined, notwithstanding the disinclination of my +people, from the recollection of what they had suffered in coming that +way, to return by the same route. I had observed, indeed, that the +water which had fallen fifteen feet perpendicular, at the narrow pass +below us, had lost much of its former turbulence. + +As dispatch was essential in procuring a supply of provisions, we did +not delay a moment in making preparation to renew our progress. Five of +the men began to carry the baggage, while the sixth and myself took the +canoe asunder, to cleanse her of the dirt, and expose her lining and +timbers to the air, which would render her much lighter. About sun-set +Mr. Mackay and our hunters returned with heavy burdens of the flesh of a +buffalo: though not very tender, it was very acceptable, and was the +only animal that they had seen, though the country was covered with +tracks of them, as well as of the moose-deer and the elk. The former +had done rutting, and the latter were beginning to run. Our people +returned, having left their loads mid-way on the carrying-place. My +companion and myself completed our undertaking, and the canoe was ready +to be carried in the morning. A hearty meal concluded the day, and +every fear of future want was removed. + + +_Wednesday, 21._--When the morning dawned we set forwards, but as a +fire had passed through the portage, it was with difficulty we could +trace our road in many parts; and with all the exertion of which we were +capable, we did not arrive at the river till four in the afternoon. We +found almost as much difficulty in carrying our canoe down the mountain +as we had in getting it up; the men being not so strong as on the former +occasion, though they were in better spirits; and I was now enabled to +assist them, my ancle being almost well. We could not, however, proceed +any further till the following day, as we had the canoe to gum, with +several great and small poles to prepare; those we had left here having +been carried away by the water, though we had left them in a position +from fifteen to twenty feet above the water-mark, at that time. These +occupations employed us till a very late hour. + + +_Thursday, 22._--The night was cold, and though the morning was fine +and clear, it was seven before we were in a state of preparation to +leave this place, sometimes driving with the current, and at other times +shooting the rapids. The latter had lost much of their former strength; +but we, nevertheless, thought it necessary to land very frequently, in +order to examine the rapids before we could venture to run them. +However, the canoe being light, we very fortunately passed them all, and +at noon arrived at the place where I appointed to meet Mr. Mackay and +the hunters: there we found them, with plenty of excellent fat meat, +ready roasted, as they had killed two elks within a few hundred yards of +the spot where we then were. When the men had satisfied their +appetites, I sent them for as much of the meat as they could carry. In +coming hither, Mr. Mackay informed me, that he and the hunters kept +along the high land, and did not see or cross the Indian path. At the +same time, there can be no doubt but the road from this place to the +upper part of the rapids is to be preferred to that which we came, both +for expedition and safety. + +After staying here about an hour and a half, we proceeded with the +stream, and landed where I had forgotten my pipe-tomahawk and seal, on +the eighteenth of May. The former of them I now recovered. On leaving +the mountains we saw animals grazing in every direction. In passing +along an island, we fired at an elk, and broke its leg; and as it was +now time to encamp, we landed; when the hunters pursued the wounded +animal, which had crossed over to the main land, but could not get up +the bank. We went after it, therefore, in the canoe, and killed it. To +give some notion of our appetites, I shall state the elk, or at least +the carcase of it, which we brought away, to have weighed two hundred +and fifty pounds; and as we had taken a very hearty meal at one o'clock, +it might naturally be supposed that we should not be very voracious at +supper; nevertheless, a kettle full of the elk flesh was boiled and +eaten, and that vessel replenished and put on the fire. All that +remained, with the bones, &c. was placed, after the Indian fashion, +round the fire to roast, and at ten next morning the whole was consumed +by ten persons and a large dog, who was allowed his share of the +banquet. This is no exaggeration; nor did any inconvenience result from +what may be considered as an inordinate indulgence. + + +_Friday, 23._--We were on the water before daylight; and when the sun +rose, a beautiful country appeared around us, enriched and animated by +large herds of wild cattle. The weather was now so warm, that to us, +who had not of late been accustomed to heat, it was overwhelming and +oppressive. In the course of this day we killed a buffalo and a bear; +but we were now in the midst of abundance, and they were not +sufficiently fat to satisfy our fastidious appetites, so we left them +where they fell. We landed for the night, and prepared ourselves for +arriving at the Fort on the following day. + + +_Saturday, 24._--The weather was the same as yesterday, and the +country increasing in beauty; though as we approached the Fort, the +cattle appeared proportionably to diminish. We now landed at two lodges +of Indians, who were as astonished to see us, as if we had been the +first white men whom they had ever beheld. When we had passed these +people, not an animal was to be seen on the borders of the river. + +At length, as we rounded a point, and came in view of the Fort, we threw +out a flag, and accompanied it with a general discharge of our +fire-arms; while the men were in such spirits, and made such an active +use of their paddles, that we arrived before the two men whom we left +here in the spring, could recover their senses to answer us. Thus we +landed at four in the afternoon, at the place which we left on the ninth +of May. + +Here my voyages of discovery terminate. + +Their toils and their dangers, their solicitudes and sufferings, have +not been exaggerated in my description. On the contrary, in many +instances, language has failed me in the attempt to describe them. I +received, however, the reward of my labours, for they were crowned with +success. + +As I have now resumed the character of a trader I shall not trouble my +readers with any subsequent concern, but content myself with the closing +infomation, that after an absence of eleven months, I arrived at Fort +Chepewyan, where I remained, for the purposes of trade, during the +succeeding winter. + +---- + +The following general, but short, geographical view of the country may +not be improper to close this work, as well as some remarks on the +probable advantages that may be derived from advancing the trade of it, +under proper regulations, and by the spirit of commercial enterprize. + +By supposing a line from the Atlantic, East, to the Pacific, West, in +the parallel of forty-five degrees of North latitude, it will, I think, +nearly describe the British territories in North America. For I am of +opinion, that the extent of the country to the South of this line, which +we have a right to claim, is equal to that to the North of it, which may +be claimed by other powers. + +The outline of what I shall call the first division, is along that track +of country which runs from the head of James-Bay, in about latitude +51. North, along the Eastern coast, as far North as to, and through +Hudson's Straits, round by Labrador; continuing on the Atlantic coast, +on the outside of the great islands, in the gulf of St. Laurence, to the +river St. Croix, by which it takes its course, to the height of land +that divides the waters emptying themselves into the Atlantic, from +those discharged into the river St. Laurence. Then following these +heights, as the boundary between the British possessions, and those of +the American States, it makes an angle Westerly until it strikes the +discharge of Lake Champlain, in latitude 45. North, when it keeps a +direct West line till it strikes the river St. Laurence, above Lake +St. Francis, where it divides the Indian village St. Rigest; from whence +it follows the centre of the waters of the great river St. Laurence: it +then proceeds through Lake Ontario, the connection between it and Lake +Erie; through the latter, and its chain of connection, by the river +Detroit, as far South as latitude 42. North, and then through the lake +and river St. Clair, as also lake Huron, through which it continues to +the strait of St. Mary, latitude 46. 30. North; from which we will +suppose the line to strike to the East of North, to the head of James +Bay, in the latitude already mentioned. + +Of this great tract, more than half is represented as barren and broken, +displaying a surface of rock and fresh water lakes, with a very +scattered and scanty proportion of soil. Such is the whole coast of +Labrador, and the land, called East Main to the West of the heights, +which divide the waters running into the river and gulf of St. Laurence, +from those flowing into Hudson's Bay. It is consequently inhabited only +by a few savages, whose numbers are proportioned to the scantiness of +the soil; nor is it probable, from the same cause, that they will +encrease. The fresh and salt waters, with a small quantity of game, +which the few, stinted woods afford, supply the wants of nature; from +whence, to that of the line of the American boundary, and the Atlantic +Ocean, the soil, wherever cultivation has been attempted, has yielded +abundance; particularly on the river St. Laurence, from Quebec upwards, +to the line of boundary already mentioned; but a very inconsiderable +proportion of it has been broken by the plough-share. + +The line of the second division may be traced from that of the first at +St. Mary's, from which also the line of American boundary runs, and is +said to continue through Lake Superior (and through a lake called the +Long Lake which has no existence), to the Lake of the Woods, in latitude +49. 37. North, from whence it is also said to run West to the +Mississippi, which it may do, by giving it a good deal of Southing, but +not otherwise; as the source of that river does not extend further North +than latitude 47. 38. North, where it is no more than a small brook; +consequently, if Great Britain retains the right of entering it along +the line of division, it must be in a lower latitude, and wherever that +may be, the line must be continued West, till it terminates in the +Pacific Ocean, to the South of the Columbia. This division is then +bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the West, the Frozen Sea and Hudson's +Bay on the North and East. The Russians, indeed, may claim with +justice, the islands and coast from Behring's Straits to Cook's Entry. + +The whole of this country will long continue in the possession of its +present inhabitants, as they will remain contented with the produce of +the woods and waters for their support, leaving the earth, from various +causes, in its virgin state. The proportion of it that is fit for +cultivation, is very small and is still less in the interior parts; it +is also very difficult of access; and whilst any land remains +uncultivated to the South of it, there will be no temptation to settle +it. Besides, its climate is not in general sufficiently genial to bring +the fruits of the earth to maturity. It will also be an asylum for the +descendants of the original inhabitants of the country to the South, who +prefer the modes of life of their forefathers, to the improvements of +civilization. Of this disposition there is a recent instance. A small +colony of Iroquois emigrated to the banks of the Saskatchiwine, in 1799, +who had been brought up from their infancy under the Romish +missionaries, and instructed by them at a village within nine miles of +Montreal. + +A further division of this country is marked by a ridge of high land, +rising, as it were, from the coast of Labrador, and running nearly +South-West to the source of the Utawas River, dividing the waters going +either way to the river and gulf of St. Laurence and Hudson's Bay, as +before observed. From thence it stretches to the North of West, to the +Northward of Lake Superior, to latitude 50. North, and longitude +98. West, when it forks from the last course at about South-West, and +continues the same division of waters until it passes North of the +source of the Mississippi. The former course runs, as has been +observed, in a North-West direction, until it strikes the river Nelson, +separating the waters that discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, which +forms part of the said river, and those that also empty themselves into +Hudson's Bay, by the Albany, Severn, and Hay's or Hill's Rivers. From +thence it keeps a course of about West-North-West, till it forms the +banks of the Missinipi or Churchill River, at Portage de Traite, +latitude 55. 25. North. It now continues in a Western direction, +between the Saskatchiwine and the source of the Missinipi, or Beaver +River, which it leaves behind, and divides the Saskatchiwine from the +Elk River; when, leaving those also behind, and pursuing the same +direction it leads to the high land that lies between the Unjigah and +Tacoutche rivers, from whence it may be supposed to be the same ridge. +From the head of the Beaver River, on the West, the same kind of high +ground runs to the East of North, between the waters of the Elk and +Missinipi River forming the Portage la Loche, and continuing on to the +latitude 57. 15. North, dividing the waters that run to Hudson's Bay +from those going to the North Sea: from thence its course is nearly +North, when an angle runs from it to the North of the Slave Lake, till +it strikes Mackenzie's River. + +The last, but by no means the least, is the immense ridge, or succession +of ridges of stony mountains, whose Northern extremity dips in the North +Sea, in latitude 70. North, and longitude 135. West, running nearly +South-East, and begins to be parallel with the coast of the Pacific +Ocean, from Cook's entry, and so onwards to the Columbia. From thence +it appears to quit the coast, but still continuing, with less elevation, +to divide the waters of the Atlantic from those which run into the +Pacific. In those snow-clad mountains rises the Mississippi, if we +admit the Missouri to be its source, which flows into the Gulph of +Mexico; the River Nelson, which is lost in Hudson's Bay; Mackenzie's +River, that discharges itself into the North Sea; and the Columbia +emptying itself into the Pacific Ocean. The great River St. Laurence +and Churchill River, with many lesser ones, derive their sources far +short of these mountains. It is, indeed, the extension of these +mountains so far South on the sea coast, that prevents the Columbia from +finding a more direct course to the sea, as it runs obliquely with the +coast upwards of eight degrees of latitude before it mingles with the +ocean. + +It is further to be observed, that these mountains, from Cook's entry to +the Columbia, extend from six to eight degrees in breadth Easterly; and +that along their Eastern skirts is a narrow strip of very marshy, boggy, +and uneven ground, the outer edge of which produces coal and bitumen: +these I saw on the banks of Mackenzie's River, as far North as latitude +66. I also discovered them in my second journey, at the commencement of +the rocky mountains in 56. North latitude, and 120. West longitude; and +the same was observed by Mr. Fidler, one of the servants of the Hudson's +Bay Company, at the source of the South branch of the Saskatchiwine, in +about latitude 52 North, and longitude 112. 30. West.[1] Next to this +narrow belt are immense plains, or meadows, commencing in a point at +about the junction of the River of the Mountain with Mackenzie's River, +widening as they continue East and South, till they reach the Red River +at its confluence with the Assiniboin River, from whence they take a +more Southern direction, along the Mississippi towards Mexico. +Adjoining to these plains is a broken country, composed of lakes, rocks, +and soil. + +From the banks of the rivers running through the plains, there appeared +to ooze a saline fluid, concreting into a thin, scurf on the grass. +Near that part of the Slave River where it first loses the name of Peace +River, and along the extreme edge of these plains, are very strong salt +springs, which in the summer concrete and crystallize in great +quantities. About the Lake Dauphin, on the South-West side of Lake +Winipic, are also many salt ponds, but it requires a regular process to +form salt from them. Along the West banks of the former is to be seen, +at intervals, and traced in the line of the direction of the plains, a +soft rock of lime-stone, in thin and nearly horizontal stratas, +particularly on the Beaver, Cedar, Winipic, and Superior lakes, as also +in the beds of the rivers crossing that line. It is also remarkable +that, at the narrowest part of Lake Winipic, where it is not more than +two miles in breadth, the West side is faced with rocks of this stone +thirty feet perpendicular; while, on the East side, the rocks are more +elevated, and of a dark-grey granite. + +The latter is to be found throughout the whole extent North of this +country, to the coast of Hudson's Bay, and as I have been informed, +along that coast, onwards to the coast of Labrador; and it may be +further observed, that between these extensive ranges of granite and +lime-stone are found all the great lakes of this country. + +There is another very large district which must not be forgotten; and +behind all the others in situation as well as in soil, produce, and +climate. This comprehends the tract called the Barren Grounds, which is +to the North of a line drawn from Churchill, along the North border of +the Rein-Deer Lake, to the North of the Lake of the Hills and Slave +Lake, and along the North side of the latter to the rocky mountains, +which terminate in the North Sea, latitude 70. North, and longitude +135. West; in the whole extent of which no trees are visible, except a +few stinted ones, scattered along its rivers, and with scarce anything +of surface that can be called earth; yet, this inhospitable region is +inhabited by a people who are accustomed to the life it requires. Nor +has bountiful nature withheld the means of subsistence; the rein deer, +which supply both food and clothing, are satisfied with the produce of +the hills, though they bear nothing but a short curling moss, on a +species of which, that grows on the rocks, the people themselves subsist +when famine invades them. Their small lakes are not furnished with a +great variety of fish, but such as they produce are excellent, which, +with hares and partridges, form a proportion of their food. + +The climate must necessarily be severe in such a country as we have +described, and which displays so large a surface of fresh water. Its +severity is extreme on the coast of Hudson's Bay, and proceeds from its +immediate exposure to the North West winds that blow off the Frozen +Ocean. + +These winds, in crossing directly from the bay over Canada and the +British dominions on the Atlantic, as well as over the Eastern +States of North America to that ocean, (where they give to those +countries a length of winter astonishing to the inhabitants of the same +latitudes in Europe), continue to retain a great degree of force and +cold in their passage, even over the Atlantic, particularly at the time +when the sun is in its Southern declination. The same winds which come +from the Frozen Ocean, over the barren grounds, and across frozen lakes +and snowy plains, bounded by the rocky mountains, lose their frigid +influence, as they travel in a Southern direction, till they get to the +Atlantic Ocean, where they close their progress. Is not this a +sufficient cause for the difference between the climate in America, and +that of the same latitude in Europe? + +It has been frequently advanced, that the clearing away the wood has had +an astonishing influence in meliorating the climate in the former: but I +am not disposed to assent to that opinion in the extent which it +proposes to establish, when I consider the very trifling proportion of +the country cleared, compared with the whole. The employment of the axe +may have had some inconsiderable effect; but I look to other causes. I +myself observed in a country, which was in an absolute state of nature, +that the climate is improving; and this circumstance was confirmed to me +by the native inhabitants of it. Such a change, therefore, must proceed +from some predominating operation in the system of the globe which is +beyond my conjecture, and, indeed, above my comprehension, and may, +probably, in the course, of time, give to America the climate of Europe. +It is well known, indeed, that the waters are decreasing there, and that +many lakes are draining and filling up by the earth which is carried +into them from the higher lands by the rivers: and this may have some +partial effect. + +The climate on the West coast of America assimilates much more to that +of Europe in the same latitudes: I think very little difference will be +found, except such as proceed from the vicinity of high mountains +covered with snow. This is an additional proof that the difference in +the temperature of the air proceeds from the cause already mentioned. + +Much has been said, and much more still remains to be said on the +peopling of America.--On this subject I shall confine myself to one or +two observations, and leave my readers to draw their inferences from +them. + +The progress of the inhabitants of the country immediately under our +observation, which is comprised within the line of latitude 45. North, +is as follows: that of the Esquimaux, who possess the sea coast from the +Atlantic through Hudson's Straits and Bay, round to Mackenzie's River +(and I believe further), is known to be Westward; they never quit the +coast, and agree in appearance, manners, language, and habits with the +inhabitants of Greenland. The different tribes whom I describe under +the name of Algonquins and Knisteneaux, but originally the same people, +were the inhabitants of the Atlantic coast, and the banks of the river +St. Laurence and adjacent countries: their progress is Westerly, and +they are even found West and North as far as Athabasca. On the +contrary, the Chepewyans, and the numerous tribes who speak their +language, occupy the whole space between the Knisteneaux country and +that of the Esquimaux, stretching behind the natives of the coast of the +Pacific, to latitude 52. North, on the river Columbia. Their progress +is Easterly, and, according to their own traditions, they came from +Siberia; agreeing in dress and manner with the people now found upon the +coast of Asia. + +Of the inhabitants of the coast of the Pacific Ocean we know little more +than that they are stationary there. The Nadowasis or Assiniboins, as +well as the different tribes not particularly described, inhabiting the +plains on and about the source and banks of the Saskatchiwine and +Assiniboin rivers, are from the Southward, and their progress is +North-West. + +---- + +The discovery of a passage by sea, North-East or North West from the +Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, has for many years excited the attention +of governments, and encouraged the enterprising spirit of individuals. +The non-existence, however, of any such practical passage being at +length determined, the practicability of a passage through the +continents of Asia and America becomes an object of consideration. The +Russians, who first discovered, that, along the coasts of Asia no useful +or regular navigation existed, opened an interior communication by +rivers, &c., and through that long and wide-extended continent, to the +strait that separates Asia from America, over which they passed to the +adjacent islands and continent of the latter. Our situation, at length, +is in some degree similar to theirs: the non-existence of a practicable +passage by sea and the existence of one through the continent, are +clearly proved; and it requires only the countenance and support of the +British Government, to increase in a very ample proportion this national +advantage, and secure the trade of that country to its subjects. + +Experience, however, has proved, that this trade, from its very nature +cannot be carried on by individuals. A very large capital, or credit, +or indeed both, is necessary, and consequently an association of men of +wealth to direct, with men of enterprise to act, in one common interest, +must be formed on such principles, as that in due time the latter may +succeed the former, in continual and progressive succession. Such was +the equitable and successful mode adopted by the merchants from Canada, +which has been already described. + +The junction of such a commercial association with the Hudson's Bay +Company, is the important measure which I would propose, and the trade +might then be carried on with a very superior degree of advantage, both +private and public, under the privilege of their charter, and would +prove, in fact, the complete fulfilment of the conditions, on which it +was first granted. + +It would be an equal injustice to either party to be excluded from the +option of such an undertaking; for if the one has a right by charter, +has not the other a right by prior possession, as being successor to the +subjects of France, who were exclusively possessed of all the then known +parts of this country, before Canada was ceded to Great Britain, except +the coast of Hudson's Bay, and having themselves been the discoverers of +a vast extent of country since added to his Majesty's territories, even +to the Hyperborean and the Pacific Oceans? + +If, therefore, that company should decline, or be averse to engage in, +such an extensive, and perhaps hazardous undertaking, it would not, +surely, be an unreasonable proposal to them, from government, to give up +a right which they refuse to exercise, on allowing them a just and +reasonable indemnification of their stock, regulated by the average +dividends of a certain number of years, or the actual price at which +they transfer their stock. + +By enjoying the privilege of the company's charter, though but for a +limited period, there are adventurers who would be willing, as they are +able, to engage in, and carry on the proposed commercial undertaking, as +well as to give the most ample and satisfactory security to government +for the fulfilment of its contract with the company. It would, at the +same time, be equally necessary to add a similar privilege of trade on +the Columbia River, and its tributary waters. + +If, however, it should appear, that the Hudson's Bay Company have an +exclusive right to carry on their trade as they think proper, and +continue it on the narrow scale, and with so little benefit to the +public as they now do; if they should refuse to enter into a +co-operative junction with others, what reasonable cause can they assign +to government for denying the navigation of the bay to Nelson's River: +and, by its waters, a passage to and from the interior country, for the +use of the adventurers, and for the sole purpose of transport, under the +most severe and binding restrictions not to interfere with their trade +on the coast, and the country between it and the actual establishments +of the Canadian traders.[2] + +By these waters that discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay at Port +Nelson, it is proposed to carry on the trade to their source, at the +head of the Saskatchiwine River, which rises in the Rocky Mountains, not +eight degrees of longitude from the Pacific Ocean. The Tacoutche or +Columbia River flows also from the same mountains, and discharges itself +likewise in the Pacific, in latitude 46. 20. Both of them are capable +of receiving ships at their mouths, and are navigable throughout for +boats. + +The distance between these waters is only known from the report of the +Indians. If, however, this communication should prove inaccessible, the +route I pursued, though longer, in consequence of the great angle it +makes to the North, will answer every necessary purpose. But whatever +course may be taken from the Atlantic, the Columbia is the line of +communication from the Pacific Ocean, pointed out by nature, as it is +the only navigable river in the whole extent of Vancouver's minute +survey of that coast: its banks also form the first level country in all +the Southern extent of continental coast from Cook's entry, and, +consequently, the most Northern situation fit for colonization, and +suitable to the residence of a civilized people. By opening this +intercourse between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and forming regular +establishments through the interior, and at both extremes, as well as +along the coasts and islands, the entire command of the fur trade of +North America might be obtained, from latitude 48. North to the pole, +except that portion of it which the Russians have in the Pacific. To +this may be added the fishing in both seas, and the markets of the four +quarters of the globe. Such would be the field for commercial +enterprise, and incalculable would be the produce of it, when supported +by the operations of that credit and capital which Great Britain so +pre-eminently possesses. Then would this country begin to be +remunerated for the expences it has sustained in discovering and +surveying the coast of the Pacific Ocean, which is at present left to +American adventurers, who without regularity or capital, or the desire +of conciliating future confidence, look altogether to the interest of +the moment. They, therefore, collect all the skins they can procure, +and in any manner that suits them, and having exchanged them at Canton +for the produce of China, return to their own country. Such +adventurers, and many of them, as I have been informed, have been very +successful, would instantly disappear from before a well-regulated +trade. + +It would be very unbecoming in me to suppose for a moment, that the +East-India Company would hesitate to allow those privileges to their +fellow-subjects which are permitted to foreigners in a trade, that is so +much out of the line of their own commerce, and therefore cannot be +injurious to it. Many political reasons, which it is not necessary here +to enumerate, must present themselves to the mind of every man +acquainted with the enlarged system and capacities of British commerce +in support of the measure which I have very briefly suggested, as +promising the most important advantages to the trade of the united +kingdoms. + +[1] Bitumen is also found on the coast of the Slave Lake, in latitude +60. North, near its discharge by Mackenzie's River; and also near the +forks of the Elk River. + +[2] Independent of the prosecution of this great object, I conceive, +that the merchants from Canada are entitled to such an indulgence (even +if they should be considered as not possessing a rightful claim), in +order that they might be enabled to extend their trade beyond their +present limits, and have it in their power to supply the natives with a +larger quantity of useful articles; the enhanced value of which, and the +present difficulty of transporting them, will be fully comprehended, +when I relate, that the tract of transport occupies an extent of from +three to four thousand miles, through upwards of sixty large fresh water +lakes, and numerous rivers; and that the means of transport are slight +bark canoes. It must also be observed, that those waters are +intercepted by more than two hundred rapids, along which the articles of +merchandise are chiefly carried on men's backs, and over a hundred and +thirty carrying-places, from twenty-five paces to thirteen miles in +length where the canoes and cargoes proceed by the same toilsome and +perilous operations. + + +THE END + + +_It is to be observed, that the Courses throughout the Journals are +taken by_ Compass, _and that the Variation must be considered._ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages from Montreal Through the +Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793, by Alexander Mackenzie + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL II *** + +***** This file should be named 35659-8.txt or 35659-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/6/5/35659/ + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793 + Vol. II + +Author: Alexander Mackenzie + +Release Date: March 22, 2011 [EBook #35659] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL II *** + + + + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<center> +<hr width="80%"> +<br><br> +<center> <h2> MACKENZIE'S VOYAGES</H2> </CENTER> +<br><br> +<hr width="80%"> +<br><center><h2>A Map of America</h2> +[<A href="images/arrowsmith.png"> Small</a> + <A href="images/arrowsmith-large.png"> Large</a>] +</center> +<br> +[Transcriber's Note: The large map (app. 17000 X 10000 pixels) +may not display well on some readers.] +<br><br><br> + +<hr width="80%"> + +<h2 style="color:red"> +<br><br>VOYAGES <i>from</i> MONTREAL<br> +THROUGH THE CONTINENT <i>of</i> NORTH AMERICA +<br></h2> + +<h2>TO THE<br> +FROZEN <i>and</i> PACIFIC OCEANS<br> +IN 1789 <i>and</i> 1793<br> +<br> +</h2> +<h3> +WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE RISE <br> +AND STATE OF THE FUR TRADE<br> +<br> +<i>By</i><br> +<br></h3> +<h3 style="color:red">ALEXANDER MACKENZIE</h3><br> +<br> +<h3><i>WITH MAP</i><br> +<br> +IN TWO VOLUMES<br> +<br> +VOL. II.<br> +<br> +</h3> +NEW YORK<br> +<div style="color:red">A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY</div> +1903 + +</center> +<br> +<br> +<hr width="80%"> +<br> +<br> +<div align="center">Registered at the <br> +<i>Library of Congress, August, 1902</i><br> +A. S. BARNES & COMPANY +</div> + +<br> +<br> +<br> + + +<hr width="80%"> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="piii"></A>iii}</SPAN> +<center><h3>Table of Contents.</h3></center> + +<table align="center" width="80%"> +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter1" href="#chapter1">CHAPTER I.</a></h4></center></td></tr> + +<tr><td> +Removed from the tent to the house. Build habitations + for the people. The hardships they suffer. Violent + hurricane. Singular circumstances attending + it. The commencement of the new year. An + Indian cured of a dangerous wound. State of + the weather. Curious customs among the Indians, + on the death of a relation. Account of a + quarrel. An Indian's reasoning on it. Murder + of one of the Indians. The cause of it. Some + account of the Rocky Mountain Indians. Curious + circumstance respecting a woman in labour, etc. A + dispute between two Indians, which arose from + gaming. An account of one of their games. Indian + superstition. Mildness of the season. The Indians + prepare snow shoes. Singular customs. Further + account of their manners. The slavish state of the + women. Appearance of spring. Dispatch canoes + with the trade to Fort Chepewyan. Make preparations + for the voyage of discovery.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p9">9</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter2" href="#chapter2">CHAPTER II.</a></h4></center></td></tr> + +<tr><td> +Proceed on the voyage of discovery. Beautiful + scenery. The canoe too heavily laden. The + country in a state of combustion. Meet with a + hunting party. State of the river, etc. Meet + with Indians. See the tracks of bears, and one of + their dens. Sentiment of an Indian. Junction of + the Bear River. Appearance of the country. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="piv"></A>iv}</SPAN>State + of the river. Observe a fall of timber. Abundance + of animals. See some bears. Come in sight of the + rocky mountains. The canoe receives an injury and + is repaired. Navigation dangerous. Rapids and + falls. Succession of difficulties and dangers.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p31">31</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter3" href="#chapter3">CHAPTER III.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Continuation of difficulties and dangers. Discontents + among the people. State of the river and + its banks. Volcanic chasms in the earth. Dispatch + various persons to discover ways across the + mountain. Obstacles present themselves on all + sides. Preparations made to attempt the mountain. + Account of the ascent with the canoe and baggage. + The trees that are found there. Arrive at the + river. Extraordinary circumstances of it. Curious + hollows in the rocks. Prepare the canoe. Renew + our progress up the river. The state of it. Leave + some tokens of amity for the natives. The weather + very cold. Lost a book of my observations for + several days. Continue to proceed up the river. + Send a letter down the current in a rum-keg. + Came to the forks, and proceed up the Eastern branch. + Circumstances of it.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p58">58</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter4" href="#chapter4">CHAPTER IV.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Continue our voyage. Heavy fog. The water + rises. Succession of courses. Progressive account + of this branch. Leave the canoe to proceed, + and ascend a hill to reconnoitre. Climb a tree to + extend my view of the country. Return to the + River. The canoe not arrived. Go in search of + it. Extreme heat, musquitoes, etc. Increasing anxiety, + respecting the canoe. It at length <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pv"></A>v}</SPAN>appears. Violent + storm. Circumstances of our progress. Forced + to haul the canoe up the stream by the branches + of trees. Succession of courses. Wild parsnips + along the river. Expect to meet with natives. Courses + continued. Fall in with some natives. Our + intercourse with them. Account of their dress, arms, + utensils, and manners, etc. New discouragements + and difficulties present themselves.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p78">78</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter5" href="#chapter5">CHAPTER V.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Continue the voyage. State of the river. Succession + of courses. Sentiment of the guide. Conical + mountain. Continuation of courses. Leave the main + branch. Enter another. Description of it. Saw + beaver. Enter a lake. Arrive at the upper source + of the Unjigah, or Peace River. Land, and cross + to a second lake. Local circumstances. Proceed + to a third lake. Enter a river. Encounter + various difficulties. In danger of being lost. The + circumstances of that situation described. Alarm + and dissatisfaction among the people. They + are at length composed. The canoe repaired. Roads + cut through woods. Pass morasses. The guide + deserts. After a succession of difficulties, dangers, + and toilsome marches, we arrive at the great river.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p102">102</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter6" href="#chapter6">CHAPTER VI.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Rainy night. Proceed on the great river. Circumstances + of it. Account of courses. Come to rapids. Observe + several smokes. See a flight of white ducks. Pass + over a carrying-place with the canoe, etc. The + difficulties of that passage. Abundance + of wild onions. Re-embark on the river. See some + of the natives. They desert <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pvi"></A>vi}</SPAN>their camp and fly into + the woods. Courses continued. Kill a red deer, + etc. Circumstances of the river. Arrive at an Indian + habitation. Description of it. Account of a curious + machine to catch fish. Land to procure bark for the + purpose of constructing a new canoe. Conceal a + quantity of pemmican for provision on our + return. Succession of courses. Meet with some + of the natives. Our intercourse with them. Their + information respecting the river, and the country. + Description of those people.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p127">127</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter7" href="#chapter7">CHAPTER VII.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Renew our voyage, accompanied by two of the natives. + Account of courses. State of the river. Arrive at a + subterranean house. See several natives. Brief + description of them. Account of our conference with + them. Saw other natives. Description of them. Their + conduct, etc. The account which they gave of the + country. The narrative of a female prisoner. The + perplexities of my situation. Specimen of the + language of two tribes. Change the plan of my + journey. Return up the river. Succession of dangers + and difficulties. Land on an island to build + another canoe.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p154">154</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter8" href="#chapter8">CHAPTER VIII.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Make preparations to build a canoe. Engage in that + important work. It proceeds with great expedition. + The guide who had deserted arrives with another + Indian. He communicates agreeable intelligence. They + take an opportunity to quit the island. Complete + the canoe. Leave the island, which was now named the + Canoe Island. Obliged to put the people on short + allowance. Account of the navigation. Difficult + ascent of a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pvii"></A>vii}</SPAN>rapid. Fresh perplexities. Continue our + voyage up the river. Meet the guide and some of his + friends. Conceal some pemmican and other + articles. Make preparations for proceeding over + land. Endeavour to secure the canoe till our + return. Proceed on our journey. Various circumstances + of it.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p187">187</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter9" href="#chapter9">CHAPTER IX.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Continue our journey. Embark on a river. Come to a + weir. Dexterity of the natives in passing it. Arrive + at a village. Alarm occasioned among the natives. The + subsequent favourable reception, accompanied with a + banquet of ceremony. Circumstances of it. Description + of a village, its houses, and places of + devotion. Account of the customs, mode of living, and + superstition of the inhabitants. Description of the + chief's canoe. Leave the place, and proceed on + our voyage.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p251">251</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter10" href="#chapter10">CHAPTER X.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Renew our voyage. Circumstances of the river. + Land at the house of a chief. Entertained by + him. Carried down the river with great rapidity + to another house. Received with kindness. Occupations + of the inhabitants on its banks. Leave the canoe + at a fall. Pass over land to another village. + Some account of it. Obtain a view of an arm of + the sea. Lose our dog. Procure another canoe. + Arrive at the arm of the sea. Circumstances of + it. One of our guides returns home. + Coast along a bay. Some description of it. Meet + with Indians. Our communication with them. + Their suspicious conduct towards us. Pass onwards. + Determine the latitude and longitude. + Return to the river. Dangerous encounter with + the Indians. Proceed on our journey.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p267">267</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pviii"></A>viii}</SPAN><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter11" href="#chapter11">CHAPTER XI.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Return up the river. Slow progress of the canoe, + from the strength of the current. The hostile + party of the natives precedes us. Impetuous conduct + of my people. Continue our very tedious + voyage. Come to some houses; received with + great kindness. Arrive at the principal, or Salmon + Village. Our present reception very different from + that we experienced on our former visit. + Continue our journey. Circumstances of it. + Find our dog. Arrive at the Upper, or Friendly + Village. Meet with a very kind reception. Some + further account of the manners and customs of + its inhabitants. Brief vocabulary of their language.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p290">290</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center><h4><a name="toc_chapter12" href="#chapter12">CHAPTER XII.</a></h4></center></td></tr> +<tr><td>Leave the Friendly Village. Attentions of the natives +at our departure. Stop to divide our provisions. + Begin to ascend the mountains. Circumstances of the + ascent. Journey continued. Arrive at the place from + whence we set out by land. Meet with Indians there. + Find the canoe, and all the other articles in a state + of perfect security and preservation. Means employed + to compel the restoration of articles which were + afterwards stolen. Proceed on our homeward bound + voyage. Some account of the natives on the river. + The canoe is run on a rock, etc. Circumstances + of the voyage. Enter the Peace River. Statement of + courses. Continue our route. Circumstances of it. + Proceed onwards in a small canoe, with an Indian, + to the lower fort, leaving the rest of the people + to follow me. Arrive at Fort Chepewyan. The voyage + concluded.<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p316">316</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> +</table> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<br><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p9"></A>9}</SPAN> +<h3 style="text-align:center">JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE &c.</h3> + +<br> + + +<center><h4><a name="chapter1" href="#toc_chapter1"> CHAPTER I.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">DECEMBER 23, 1792.</p> + +<p>I this day removed from the tent into the house which had been erected +for me, and set all the men to begin the buildings intended for their +own habitation. Materials sufficient to erect a range of five houses +for them, of about seventeen by twelve feet, were already collected. It +would be considered by the inhabitants of a milder climate, as a great +evil, to be exposed to the weather at this rigorous season of the year, +but these people are inured to it, and it is necessary to describe in +some measure the hardships which they undergo without a murmur, in order +to convey a general notion of them.</p> + +<p>The men who were new with me, left this place in the beginning of last +May, and went to the Rainy Lake in canoes, laden with packs of fur, +which, from the immense length of the voyage, and other concurring +circumstances, is a most severe trial of patience and perseverance: +there they do not remain a sufficient time for ordinary repose, when +they <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p10"></A>10}</SPAN>take a load of goods in exchange, and proceed on their return, in a +great measure, day and night. They had been arrived near two months, +and, all that time, had been continually engaged in very toilsome +labour, with nothing more than a common shed to protect them from the +frost and snow. Such is the life which these people lead; and is +continued with unremitting exertion, till their strength is lost in +premature old age.</p> + +<p>The Canadians remarked, that the weather we had on the 25th, 26th, and +27th of this month, denoted such as we might expect in the three +succeeding months. On the 29th, the wind being at North-East, and the +weather calm and cloudy, a rumbling noise was heard in the air like +distant thunder, when the sky cleared away in the South-West; from +whence there blew a perfect hurricane, which lasted till eight. Soon +after it commenced, the atmosphere became so warm that it dissolved all +the snow on the ground; even the ice was covered with water, and had the +same appearance as when it is breaking up in the spring. From eight to +nine the weather became calm, but immediately after a wind arose from +the North-East with equal violence, with clouds, rain, and hail, which +continued throughout the night till the evening of the next day, when it +turned to snow. One of the people who wintered at Fort Dauphin in <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p11"></A>11}</SPAN>the +year 1780, when the small pox first appeared there, informed me, that +the weather there was of a similar description.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>January 1, 1793.</i>—On the first day of January, my people, in +conformity to the usual custom, awoke me at the break of day with the +discharge of fire-arms, with which they congratulated the appearance of +the new year. In return, they were treated with plenty of spirits, and +when there is any flour, cakes are always added to their regales, which +was the case, on the present occasion.</p> + +<p>On my arrival here last fall, I found that one of the young Indians had +lost the use of his right hand by the bursting of a gun, and that his +thumb had been maimed in such a manner as to hang only by a small strip +of flesh. Indeed, when he was brought to me, his wound was in such an +offensive state, and emitted such a putrid smell, that it required all +the resolution I possessed to examine it. His friends had done every +thing in their power to relieve him; but as it consisted only in singing +about him, and blowing upon his hand, the wound, as may be well +imagined, had got into the deplorable state in which I found it. I was +rather alarmed at the difficulty of the case, but as the young man's +life was in a state of hazard, I was determined to risk my surgical +reputation, and accordingly took him under my care. I immediately +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p12"></A>12}</SPAN>formed a poultice of bark, stripped from the roots of the spruce-fir, +which I applied to the wound, having first washed it with the juice of +the bark: this proved a very painful dressing: in a few days, however, +the wound was clean, and the proud flesh around it destroyed. I wished +very much in this state of the business to have separated the thumb from +the hand, which I well knew must be effected before the cure could be +performed; but he would not consent to that operation, till, by the +application of vitriol, the flesh by which the thumb was suspended, was +shrivelled almost to a thread. When I had succeeded in this object, I +perceived that the wound was closing rather faster than I desired. The +salve I applied on the occasion was made of the Canadian balsam, wax and +tallow dropped from a burning candle into water. In short, I was so +successful, that about Christmas my patient engaged in a hunting party, +and brought me the tongue of an elk: nor was he finally ungrateful. +When he left me I received the warmest acknowledgments, both from +himself and his relations with whom he departed, for my care of him. I +certainly did not spare my time or attention on the occasion, as I +regularly dressed his wound three times a day, during the course of a +month.</p> + +<p>On the 5th in the morning the weather was calm, clear, and very cold; +the wind blew <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p13"></A>13}</SPAN>from the South-West, and in the course of the afternoon it +began to thaw. I had already observed at Athabasca, that this wind +never failed to bring us clear mild weather, whereas, when it blew from +the opposite quarter, it produced snow. Here it is much more +perceptible, for if it blows hard South-West for four hours, a thaw is +the consequence, and if the wind is at North-East it brings sleet and +snow. To this cause it may be attributed, that there is now so little +snow in this part of the world. These warm winds come off the Pacific +Ocean, which cannot, in a direct line, be very far from us; the distance +being so short, that though they pass over mountains covered with snow, +there is not time for them to cool.</p> + +<p>There being several of the natives at the house at this time, one of +them, who had received an account of the death of his father, proceeded +in silence to his lodge, and began to fire off his gun. As it was +night, and such a noise being so uncommon at such an hour, especially +when it was so often repeated, I sent my interpreter to inquire into the +cause of it, when he was informed by the man himself, that this was a +common custom with them on the death of a near relation, and was a +warning to their friends not to approach, or intrude upon them, as they +were, in consequence of their loss, become careless of life. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p14"></A>14}</SPAN>The chief, +to whom the deceased person was also related, appeared with his war-cap +on his head, which is only worn on these solemn occasions, or when +preparing for battle, and confirmed to me this singular custom of firing +guns, in order to express their grief for the death of relations and +friends.<a name="v2-c1-hl1" href="#v2-c1-hr1">[1]</a> The women alone indulge in tears on such occasions; the men +considering it as a mark of pusillanimity and a want of fortitude to +betray any personal tokens of sensibility or sorrow.</p> + +<p>The Indians informed me, that they had been to hunt at a large lake, +called by the Knisteneaux, the Slave Lake, which derived its name from +that of its original inhabitants, who were called Slaves. They +represented it as a large body of water, and that it lies about one +hundred and twenty miles due East from this place. It is well known to +the Knisteneaux, who are among the inhabitants of the plains on the +banks of the Saskatchiwine river; for formerly, when they used to come +to make war in this country, they came in their canoes to that lake, and +left them <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p15"></A>15}</SPAN>there; from thence, there is a beaten path all the way to the +Fork, or East branch of this river, which was their war-road.</p> + +<br><p> <i>January 10.</i>—Among the people who were now here, there were two +Rocky Mountain Indians, who declared, that the people to whom we had +given that denomination, are by no means entitled to it, and that their +country has ever been in the vicinity of our present situation. They +said, in support of their assertion, that these people were entirely +ignorant of those parts which are adjacent to the mountain, as well as +the navigation of the river; that the Beaver Indians had greatly +encroached upon them, and would soon force them to retire to the foot of +these mountains. They represented themselves as the only real natives +of that country then with me; and added, that the country, and that part +of the river that intervenes between this place and the mountains, bear +much the same appearance as that around us; that the former abounds with +animals, but that the course of the latter is interrupted, near, and in +the mountains, by successive rapids and considerable falls. These men +also informed me, that there is another great river towards the midday +sun, whose current runs in that direction, and that the distance from it +is not great across the mountains.</p> + +<p>The natives brought me plenty of furs. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p16"></A>16}</SPAN>The small quantity of snow, at +this time, was particularly favourable for hunting the beaver, as from +this circumstance, those animals could, with greater facility, be traced +from their lodges to their lurking-places.</p> + +<p>On the 12th our hunter arrived, having left his mother-in-law, who was +lately become a widow with three small children, and in actual labour of +a fourth. Her daughter related this circumstance to the women here +without the least appearance of concern, though she represented her as +in a state of great danger, which probably might proceed from her being +abandoned in this unnatural manner. At the same time without any +apparent consciousness of her own barbarous negligence, if the poor +abandoned woman should die, she would most probably lament her with +great outcries, and, perhaps cut off one or two joints of her fingers as +tokens of her grief. The Indians, indeed, consider the state of a woman +in labour as among the most trifling occurrences of corporal pain to +which human nature is subject, and they may be, in some measure +justified in this apparent insensibility from the circumstances of that +situation among themselves. It is by no means uncommon in the hasty +removal of their camps from one position to another, for a woman to be +taken in labour, to deliver herself in her way, without any assistance +or <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p17"></A>17}</SPAN>notice from her associates in her journey, and to overtake them +before they complete the arrangements of their evening station, with her +new-born babe on her back.</p> + +<p>I was this morning threatened with a very unpleasant event, which, +however, I was fortunately able to control. Two young Indians being +engaged in one of their games, a dispute ensued, which rose to such a +height, that they drew their knives, and if I had not happened to have +appeared, they would I doubt not, have employed them to very bloody +purposes. So violent was their rage, that after I had turned them both +out of the house, and severely reprimanded them, they stood in the fort +for at least half an hour, looking at each other with a most vindictive +aspect, and in sullen silence.</p> + +<p>The game which produced this state of bitter enmity, is called that of +the Platter, from a principal article of it. The Indians play at it in +the following manner.</p> + +<p>The instruments of it consist of a platter, or dish, made of wood or +bark, and six round or square but flat pieces of metal, wood, or stone, +whose sides or surfaces are of different colours. These are put into +the dish, and after being for some time shaken together, are thrown into +the air, and received again into the dish with considerable dexterity; +when, by the number that are turned up of the same <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p18"></A>18}</SPAN>mark or colour, the +game is regulated. If there should be equal numbers, the throw is not +reckoned; if two or four, the platter changes hands.</p> + +<p>On the 13th, one of these people came to me, and presented in himself a +curious example of Indian superstition. He requested me to furnish him +with a remedy that might be applied to the joints of his legs and +thighs, of which he had, in a great measure lost the use for five +winters. This affliction he attributed to his cruelty about that time, +when having found a wolf with two whelps in an old beaver lodge, he set +fire to it and consumed them.</p> + +<p>The winter had been so mild, that the swans had but lately left us, and +at this advanced period there was very little snow on the ground: it +was, however, at this time a foot and a half in depth, in the environs +of the establishment below this, which is at the distance of about +seventy leagues.</p> + +<p>On the 28th the Indians were now employed in making their snow-shoes, as +the snow had not hitherto fallen in sufficient quantity to render them +necessary.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>February 2.</i>—The weather now became very cold, and it froze so hard +in the night that my watch stopped; a circumstance that had never +happened to this watch since my residence in the country.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p19"></A>19}</SPAN>There was a lodge of Indians here, who were absolutely starving with +cold and hunger. They had lately lost a near relation, and had +according to custom, thrown away every thing belonging to them, and even +exchanged the few articles of raiment which they possessed, in order, as +I presume, to get rid of every thing that may bring the deceased to +their remembrance. They also destroy every thing belonging to any +deceased person, except what they consign to the grave with the late +owner of them. We had some difficulty to make them comprehend that the +debts of a man who dies should be discharged, if he left any furs behind +him: but those who understand this principle of justice, and profess to +adhere it, never fail to prevent the appearance of any skins beyond such +as may be necessary to satisfy the debts of their dead relation.</p> + +<p>On the 8th I had an observation for the longitude. In the course of +this day one of my men, who had been some time with the Indians, came to +inform me that one of them had threatened to stab him; and on his +preferring a complaint to the man with whom he now lived, and to whom I +had given him in charge, he replied, that he had been very imprudent to +play and quarrel with the young Indians out of his lodge, where no one +would dare to come and quarrel with him; but that <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p20"></A>20}</SPAN>if he had lost his +life where he had been, it would have been the consequence of his own +folly. Thus, even among these children of nature, it appears that a +man's house is his castle, where the protection of hospitality is +rigidly maintained.</p> + +<p>The hard frost which had prevailed from the beginning of February +continued to the 16th of March, when the wind blowing from the +South-West, the weather became mild.</p> + +<p>On the 22d a wolf was so bold as to venture among the Indian lodges, and +was very near carrying off a child.</p> + +<p>I had another observation of Jupiter and his satellites for the +longitude. On the 13th some geese were seen, and these birds are always +considered as the harbingers of spring. On the first of April my +hunters shot five of them. This was a much earlier period than I ever +remember to have observed the visits of wild fowl in this part of the +world. The weather had been mild for the last fortnight, and there was +a promise of its continuance. On the 5th the snow had entirely +disappeared.</p> + +<p>At half past four this morning I was awakened to be informed that an +Indian had been killed. I accordingly hastened to the camp, where I +found two women employed in rolling up the dead body of a man, called +the White Partridge, in a beaver robe, which I had lent him. He had +received four mortal <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p21"></A>21}</SPAN>wounds from a dagger, two within the collar bone, +one in the left breast, and another in the small of the back, with two +cuts across his head. The murderer, who had been my hunter throughout +the winter, had fled; and it was pretended that several relations of the +deceased were gone in pursuit of him. The history of this unfortunate +event is as follows:—</p> + +<p>These two men had been comrades for four years; the murderer had three +wives; and the young man who was killed, becoming enamoured of one of +them, the husband consented to yield her to him, with the reserved power +of claiming her as his property, when it should be his pleasure.</p> + +<p>This connection was uninterrupted for near three years, when, whimsical +as it may appear, the husband became jealous, and the public amour was +suspended. The parties, how ever, made their private assignations, +which caused the woman to be so ill treated by her husband, that the +paramour was determined to take her away by force; and this project +ended in his death. This is a very common practice among the Indians, +and generally terminates in very serious and fatal quarrels.</p> + +<p>In consequence of this event all the Indians went away in great apparent +hurry and confusion, and in the evening not one of them was to be seen +about the fort.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p22"></A>22}</SPAN>The Beaver and Rocky Mountain Indians, who traded with us in this river, +did not exceed an hundred and fifty men, capable of bearing arms; two +thirds of whom call themselves Beaver Indians. The latter differ only +from the former, as they have, more or less, imbibed the customs and +manners of the Knisteneaux. As I have already observed, they are +passionately fond of liquor, and in the moments of their festivity will +barter any thing they have in their possession for it.</p> + +<p>Though the Beaver Indians made their peace with the Knisteneaux, at +Peace Point, as already mentioned, yet they did not secure a state of +amity from others of the same nation, who had driven away the natives of +the Saskatchiwine and Missinipy Rivers, and joined at the head water of +the latter, called the Beaver River: from thence they proceeded West by +the Slave Lake just described, on their war excursions, which they often +repeated, even till the Beaver Indians had procured arms, which was in +the year 1782. If it so happened that they missed them, they proceeded +Westward till they were certain of wreaking their vengeance on those of +the Rocky Mountain, who being without arms, became an easy prey to their +blind and savage fury. All the European articles they possessed, +previous to the year 1780, were obtained from the Knisteneaux and +Chepewyans, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p23"></A>23}</SPAN>who brought them from Fort Churchill, and for which they +were made to pay an extravagant price.</p> + +<p>As late as the year 1786, when the first traders from Canada arrived on +the banks of this river, the natives employed bows and snares, but at +present very little use is made of the former, and the latter are no +longer known. They still entertain a great dread of their natural +enemies, but they are since become so well armed, that the others now +call them their allies. The men are in general of a comely appearance, +and fond of personal decoration. The women are of a contrary +disposition, and the slaves of the men: in common with all the Indian +tribes polygamy is allowed among them. They are very subject to +jealousy, and fatal consequences frequently result from the indulgence +of that passion. But notwithstanding the vigilance and severity which +is exercised by the husband, it seldom happens that a woman is without +her favourite, who, in the absence of the husband, exacts the same +submission, and practises the same tyranny. And so premature is the +tender passion, that it is sometimes known to invigorate so early a +period of life as the age of eleven or twelve years. The women are not +very prolific: a circumstance which may be attributed in a great +measure, to the hardships that they suffer for except a few small <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p24"></A>24}</SPAN>dogs, +they alone perform that labour which is allotted to beasts of burthen in +other countries. It is not uncommon, while the men carry nothing but a +gun, that their wives and daughters follow with such weighty burdens, +that if they lay them down they cannot replace them, and that is a +kindness which the men will not deign to perform; so that during their +journeys they are frequently obliged to lean against a tree for a small +portion of temporary relief. When they arrive at the place which their +tyrants have chosen for their encampment, they arrange the whole in a +few minutes, by forming a curve of poles, meeting at the top, and +expanding into circles of twelve or fifteen feet diameter at the bottom, +covered with dressed skins of the moose sewed together. During these +preparations, the men sit down quietly to the enjoyment of their pipes, +if they happen to have any tobacco. But notwithstanding this abject +state of slavery and submission, the women have a considerable influence +on the opinion of the men in every thing except their own domestic +situation.</p> + +<p>These Indians are excellent hunters, and their exercise in that capacity +is so violent as to reduce them in general to a very meagre appearance. +Their religion is of a very contracted nature, and I never witnessed any +ceremony of devotion which they had not <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p25"></A>25}</SPAN>borrowed from the Knisteneaux, +their feasts and fasts being in imitation of that people. They are more +vicious and warlike than the Chepewyans, from whence they sprang, though +they do not possess their selfishness, for while they have the means of +purchasing their necessaries, they are liberal and generous, but when +those are exhausted they become errant beggars: they are, however, +remarkable for their honesty, for in the whole tribe there were only two +women and a man who had been known to have swerved from that virtue, and +they were considered as objects of disregard and reprobation. They are +afflicted with but few diseases, and their only remedies consist in +binding the temples, procuring perspiration, singing, and blowing on the +sick person, or affected part. When death overtakes any of them, their +property, as I have before observed, is sacrificed and destroyed; nor is +there any failure of lamentation or mourning on such occasion: they who +are more nearly related to the departed person, black their faces, and +sometimes cut off their hair; they also pierce their arms with knives +and arrows. The grief of the females is carried to a still greater +excess; they not only cut their hair, and cry and howl, but they will +sometimes, with the utmost deliberation, employ some sharp instrument to +separate the nail from the finger, and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p26"></A>26}</SPAN>then force back the flesh beyond +the first joint, which they immediately amputate. But this +extraordinary mark of affliction is only displayed on the death of a +favourite son, a husband, or a father. Many of the old women have so +often repeated this ceremony, that they have not a complete finger +remaining on either hand. The women renew their lamentations at the +graves of their departed relatives, for a long succession of years. +They appear, in common with all the Indian tribes, to be very fond of +their children, but they are as careless in their mode of swadling them +in their infant state, as they are of their own dress: the child is laid +down on aboard, of about two feet long, covered with a bed of moss, to +which it is fastened by bandages, the moss being changed as often as the +occasion requires. The chief of the nation had no less than nine wives, +and children in proportion.</p> + +<p>When traders first appeared among these people, the Canadians were +treated with the utmost hospitality and attention; but they have, by +their subsequent conduct, taught the natives to withdraw that respect +from them, and sometimes to treat them with indignity. They differ very +much from the Chepewyans and Knisteneaux, in the abhorrence they profess +of any carnal communication between their women and the white people. +They <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p27"></A>27}</SPAN>carry their love of gaming to excess; they will pursue it for a +succession of days and nights, and no apprehension of ruin, nor +influence of domestic affection, will restrain them from the indulgence +of it. They are a quick, lively, active people, with a keen, +penetrating, dark eye; and though they are very susceptible of anger, +are as easily appeased. The males eradicate their beards, and the +females their hair in every part, except their heads, where it is strong +and black, and without a curl. There are many old men among them, but +they are in general ignorant of the space in which they have been +inhabitants of the earth, though one of them told me that he recollected +sixty winters.</p> + +<p>An Indian in some measure explained his age to me, by relating that he +remembered the opposite hills and plains, now interspersed with groves +of poplars, when they were covered with moss, and without any animal +inhabitant but the rein-deer. By degrees, he said, the face of the +country changed to its present appearance, when the elk came from the +East, and was followed by the buffalo; the rein-deer then retired to the +long range of high lands that, at a considerable distance, run parallel, +with this river.</p> + +<p>On the 20th of April I had an observation of Jupiter and his satellites, +for the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p28"></A>28}</SPAN>longitude, and we were now visited by our summer companions the +gnats and musquitoes. On the other side of the river, which was yet +covered with ice, the plains were delightful; the trees were budding, +and many plants in blossom. Mr. Mackay brought me a bunch of flowers of +a pink colour, and a yellow button, encircled with six leaves of a light +purple. The change in the appearance of nature was as sudden as it was +pleasing, for a few days only were passed away since the ground was +covered with snow. On the 25th the river was cleared of the ice.</p> + +<p>I new found that the death of the man called the White Partridge, had +deranged all the plans which I had settled with the Indians for the +spring hunting. They had assembled at some distance from the fort, and +sent an embassy to me, to demand rum to drink, that they might have an +opportunity of crying for their deceased brother. It would be +considered as an extreme degradation in an Indian to weep when sober, +but a state of intoxication sanctions all irregularities. On my +refusal, they threatened to go to war, which, from motives of interest +as well as humanity, we did our utmost to discourage; and as a second +message was brought by persons of some weight among these people, and on +whom I could depend, I thought it prudent to comply with the demand, on +an <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p29"></A>29}</SPAN>express condition, that they would continue peaceably at home.</p> + +<p>The month of April being now past, in the early part of which I was most +busily employed in trading with the Indians, I ordered our old canoes to +be repaired with bark, and added four new ones to them, when, with the +furs and provisions I had purchased, six canoes were loaded and +dispatched on the 8th of May, for Fort Chepewyan. I had, however, +retained six of the men, who agreed to accompany me on my projected +voyage of discovery. I also engaged my hunters, and closed the business +of the year for the company by writing my public and private dispatches.</p> + +<p>Having ascertained, by various observations, the latitude of this place +to be 56. 9. North, and longitude 117. 35. 15. West: on the 9th day of +May, I found, that my achrometer was one hour forty-six minutes slow to +apparent time; the mean going of it I had found to be twenty-two seconds +slow in twenty-four hours. Having settled this point, the canoe was put +into the water; her dimensions were twenty-five feet long within, +exclusive of the curves of stem and stern, twenty-six inches hold, and +four feet nine inches beam. At the same time she was so light, that two +men could carry her on a good road three or four miles without resting. +In <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p30"></A>30}</SPAN>this slender vessel, we shipped provisions, goods for presents, arms, +ammunition, and baggage, to the weight of three thousand pounds, and an +equipage of ten people; viz. Alexander Mackay, Joseph Landry, Charles +Ducette,<a name="v2-c1-hl2" href="#v2-c1-hr2">[2]</a> Francois Beaulieux, Baptist Bisson, Francois Courtois, and +Jaques Beauchamp, with two Indians, as hunters and interpreters. One of +them, when a boy, used to be so idle, that he obtained the reputable +name of Cancre, which he still possesses. With these persons I embarked +at seven in the evening. My winter interpreter, with another person, +whom I left here to take care of the fort, and supply the natives with +ammunition during the summer, shed tears on the reflection of those +dangers which we might encounter in our expedition, while my own people +offered up their prayers that we might return in safety from it.</p> + + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c1-hr1" href="#v2-c1-hl1">[1]</a> When they are drinking together, they frequently present their guns +to each other, when any of the parties have not other means of procuring +rum. On such an occasion they always discharge their pieces, as a +proof, I imagine, of their being in good order, and to determine the +quantity of liquor they may propose to get in exchange for them.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c1-hr2" href="#v2-c1-hl2">[2]</a>Joseph Landry and Charles Ducette were with me in my former voyage.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p31"></A>31}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter2" href="#toc_chapter2"> CHAPTER II.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">MAY, 1793.</p> + +<p> <i>Thursday, 9.</i>—We began our voyage with a course South by West +against a strong current one mile and three quarters, South-West by +South one mile, and landed before eight on an island for the night.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 10.</i>—The weather was clear and pleasant, though there was a +keenness in the air; and at a quarter past three in the morning we +continued our voyage, steering South-West three quarters of a mile, +South-West by South one mile and a quarter, South three quarters of a +mile, South-West by South one quarter of a mile, South-West by West one +mile, South-West by South three miles, South by West three quarters of a +mile, and South-West one mile. The canoe being strained from its having +been very heavily laden, became so leaky, that we were obliged to land, +unload, and gum it. As this circumstance took place about twelve, I had +an opportunity of taking an altitude, which made our latitude +55. 58. 48.</p> + +<p>When the canoe was repaired we continued our course, steering South-West +by West one mile and an half, when I had the misfortune <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p32"></A>32}</SPAN>to drop my +pocket-compass into the water; West half a mile, West-South-West four +miles and an half. Here, the banks are steep and hilly, and in some +parts undermined by the river. Where the earth has given way, the face +of the cliffs discovers numerous strata, consisting of reddish earth and +small stones, bitumen, and a greyish earth, below which, near the +water-edge, is a red stone. Water issues from most of the banks, and +the ground on which it spreads is covered with a thin white scurf, or +particles of a saline substance: there are several of these salt +springs. At half past six in the afternoon the young men landed, when +they killed an elk and wounded a buffalo. In this spot we formed our +encampment for the night.</p> + +<p>From the place which we quitted this morning, the West side of the river +displayed a succession of the most beautiful scenery I had ever beheld. +The ground rises at intervals to a considerable height, and stretching +inwards to a considerable distance: at every interval or pause in the +rise, there is a very gently-ascending space or lawn, which is alternate +with abrupt precipices to the summit of the whole, or, at least as far +as the eye could distinguish. This magnificent theatre of nature has +all the decorations which the trees and animals of the country can +afford it: groves of poplars in every shape vary the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p33"></A>33}</SPAN>scene; and their +intervals are enlivened with vast herds of elks and buffaloes: the +former choosing the steeps and uplands, and the latter preferring the +plains. At this time the buffaloes were attended with their young ones +who were frisking about them: and it appeared that the elks would soon +exhibit the same enlivening circumstance. The whole country displayed +an exuberant verdure; the trees that bear a blossom were advancing fast +to that delightful appearance, and the velvet rind of their branches +reflecting the oblique rays of a rising or setting sun, added a splendid +gaiety to the scene, which no expressions of mine are qualified to +describe. The East side of the river consists of a range of high land +covered with the white spruce and the soft birch, while the banks abound +with the alder and the willow. The water continued to rise, and the +current being proportionately strong, we made a greater use of setting +poles than paddles.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 11.</i>—The weather was overcast. With a strong wind a-head, +we embarked at four in the morning, and left all the fresh meat behind +us, but the portion which had been assigned to the kettle; the canoe +being already too heavily laden. Our course was West-South-West one +mile, where a small river flowed in from the East, named <i>Quiscatina +Sepy</i>, or River with the High Banks; <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p34"></A>34}</SPAN>West half a mile, South half a +mile, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, West one mile and a +quarter, South-West a quarter of a mile, South-South-West half a mile, +and West by South a mile and a half. Here I took a meridian altitude, +which gave 55. 56. 3. North latitude. We then proceeded West three +miles and a half, West-South-West, where the whole plain was on fire, +one mile, West one mile, and the wind so strong a-head, that it +occasioned the canoe to take in water, and otherwise impeded our +progress. Here we landed to take time, with the mean of three +altitudes, which made the watch slow 1. 42. 10.</p> + +<p>We now proceeded West-South-West one mile and a quarter, where we found +a chief of the Beaver Indians on a hunting party. I remained, however, +in my canoe, and though it was getting late, I did not choose to encamp +with these people, lest the friends of my hunters might discourage them +from proceeding on the voyage. We, therefore, continued our course, but +several Indians kept company with us, running along the bank, and +conversing with my people, who were so attentive to them, that they +drove the canoe on a stony flat, so that we were under the necessity of +landing to repair the damages, and put up for the night, though very +contrary to my wishes. My hunters obtained permission <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p35"></A>35}</SPAN>to proceed with +some of these people to their lodges, on the promise of being back by +the break of day; though I was not without some apprehension respecting +them. The chief, however, and another man, as well as several people +from the lodges, joined us, before we had completed the repair of the +canoe; and they made out a melancholy story, that they had neither +ammunition or tobacco sufficient for their necessary supply during the +summer. I accordingly referred him to the Fort, where plenty of those +articles were left in the care of my interpreter, by whom they would be +abundantly furnished, if they were active and industrious in pursuing +their occupations. I did not fail, on this occasion, to magnify the +advantages of the present expedition; observing, at the same time, that +its success would depend on the fidelity and conduct of the young men +who were retained by me to hunt. The chief also proposed to borrow my +canoe, in order to transport himself and family across the river; +several plausible reasons, it is true, suggested themselves for +resisting his proposition; but when I stated to him, that, as the canoe +was intended for a voyage of such consequence, no woman could be +permitted to be embarked in it, he acquiesced in the refusal. It was +near twelve at night when he took his leave, after I had gratified him +with a present of tobacco.</p> + + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p36"></A>36}</SPAN> <i>Sunday, 12.</i>—Some of the Indians passed the night with us, and I was +informed by them, that according to our mode of proceeding, we should, +in ten days, get as far as the rocky mountains. The young men now +returned, to my great satisfaction, and with the appearance of +contentment; though I was not pleased when they dressed themselves in +the clothes which I had given them before we left the Fort, as it +betrayed some latent design.</p> + +<p>At four in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, steering West three +miles, including one of our course yesterday, North-West by North four +miles, West two miles and a half, North-West by West a mile and a half, +North by East two miles, North-West by West one mile, and +North-North-West three miles. After a continuation of our course to the +North for a mile and a half, we landed for the night on an island where +several of the Indians visited us, but unattended by their women, who +remained in their camp, which was at some distance from us.</p> + +<p>The land on both sides of the river, during the two last days, is very +much elevated, but particularly in the latter part of it, and, on the +Western side, presents in different places, white, steep, and lofty +cliffs. Our view being confined by these circumstances, we did not see +so many animals as on the 10th. Between these lofty boundaries, the +river becomes <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p37"></A>37}</SPAN>narrow and in a great measure free from islands; for we +had passed only four: the stream, indeed, was not more than from two +hundred to three hundred yards broad; whereas before these cliffs +pressed upon it, its breadth was twice that extent and besprinkled with +islands. We killed an elk, and fired several shots at animals from the +canoe.</p> + +<p>The greater part of this band being Rocky Mountain Indians, I +endeavoured to obtain some intelligence of our intended route, but they +all pleaded ignorance, and uniformly declared, that they knew nothing of +the country beyond the first mountain: at the same time they were of +opinion, that, from the strength of the current and the rapids we should +not get there by water; though they did not hesitate to express their +surprise at the expedition we had already made.</p> + +<p>I inquired, with some anxiety, after an old man who had already given +me an account of the country beyond the limits of his tribe, and was very +much disappointed at being informed, that he had not been seen for upwards +of a moon. This man had been at war on another large river beyond the Rocky +Mountain, and described to me a fork of it between the mountains; the +Southern branch of which he directed me to take; from thence, he said, +there was a carrying-place of about a day's march for a young man to get +to the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p38"></A>38}</SPAN>river. To prove the truth of his relation, he consented, that +his son, who had been with him in those parts, should accompany me; and +he accordingly sent him to the fort some days before my departure; but +the preceding night he deserted with another young man, whose +application to attend me as a hunter, being refused, he persuaded the +other to leave me. I now thought it right to repeat to them what I had +said to the chief of the first band, respecting the advantages which +would be derived from the voyage, that the young men might be encouraged +to remain with me; as without them I should not have attempted to +proceed.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 13.</i>—The first object that presented itself to me this +morning was the young man whom I have already mentioned, as having +seduced away my intended guide. At any other time or place, I should +have chastised him for his past conduct, but in my situation it was +necessary to pass over his offence, lest he should endeavour to exercise +the same influence over those who were so essential to my service. Of +the deserted he gave no satisfactory account, but continued to express +his wish to attend me in his place, for which he did not possess any +necessary qualifications.</p> + +<p>The weather was cloudy, with an appearance of rain; and the Indians +pressed me <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p39"></A>39}</SPAN>with great earnestness to pass the day with them, and hoped +to prolong my stay among them by assuring me that the winter yet +lingered in the rocky mountains; but my object was to lose no time, and +having given the chief some tobacco for a small quantity of meat, we +embarked at four, when my young men could not conceal their chagrin at +parting with their friends, for so long a period as the voyage +threatened to occupy. When I had assured them that in three moons we +should return to them, we proceeded on our course West-North-West half a +mile, West-South-West one mile and a half, West by North three miles, +North-West by West two miles and a half, South-West by West half a mile, +South-South-West a mile and a half, and South-West a mile and a half. +Here I had a meridian altitude, which gave 56. 17. 44. North latitude.</p> + +<p>The last course continued a mile and a half, South by West, three +quarters of a mile, South-West by South three miles and a half, and +West-South-West two miles and a half. Here the land lowered on both +sides, with an increase of wood, and displayed great numbers of animals. +The river also widened from three to five hundred yards, and was full of +islands and flats. Having continued our course three miles, we made for +the shore at seven, to pass the night.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p40"></A>40}</SPAN>At the place from whence we proceeded this morning, a river falls in +from the North; there are also several islands, and many rivulets on +either side, which are too small to deserve particular notice. We +perceived along the river, tracks of large bears, some of which were +nine inches wide, and of a proportionate length. We saw one of their +dens, or winter-quarters, called <i>watee</i>, in an island, which was ten +feet deep, five feet high, and six feet wide; but we had not yet seen +one of those animals. The Indians entertain great apprehension of this +kind of bear, which is called the grisly bear, and they never venture to +attack it but in a party of at least three or four. Our hunters, though +they had been much higher than this part of our voyage, by land, knew +nothing of the river. One of them mentioned, that having been engaged +in a war expedition, his party on their return made their canoes at some +distance below us. The wind was North throughout the day, and at times +blew with considerable violence.</p> + +<p>The apprehensions which I had felt respecting the young men were not +altogether groundless, for the eldest of them told me that his uncle had +last night addressed him in the following manner:—"My nephew, your +departure makes my heart painful. The white people may be said to rob +us of you. They are about to conduct you into the midst of our <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p41"></A>41}</SPAN>enemies, +and you may nevermore return to us. Were you not with the Chief,<a name="v2-c2-hl1" href="#v2-c2-hr1">[1]</a> I +know not what I should do, but he requires your attendance, and you must +follow him."</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 14.</i>—The weather was clear, and the air sharp, when we +embarked at half past four. Our course was South by West one mile and a +half, South-West by South half a mile, South-West.</p> + +<p>We here found it necessary to unload, and gum the canoe, in which +operation we lost an hour; when we proceeded on the last course one mile +and a half. I now took a meridian altitude, which gave 56. 1. 19. North +latitude, and continued to proceed West-South-West two miles and a half. +Here the Bear River which is of a large appearance, falls in from the +East; West three miles and an half, South-South-West one mile and an +half, and South-West four miles and an half, when we encamped upon an +island about seven in the evening.</p> + +<p>During the early part of the day, the current was not so strong as we +had generally found it, but towards the evening it became very rapid, +and was broken by numerous islands. We were gratified as usual, with +the sight of animals. The land on the West <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p42"></A>42}</SPAN>side is very irregular, but +has the appearance of being a good beaver country; indeed we saw some of +those animals in the river. Wood is in great plenty, and several +rivulets added their streams to the main river. A goose was the only +article of provision which we procured to-day. Smoke was seen, but at a +great distance before us.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 15.</i>—The rain prevented us from continuing our route till +past six in the morning, when our course was South-West by West three +quarters of a mile; at which time we passed a river on the left, West by +South two miles and a half. The bank was steep, and the current strong. +The last course continued one mile and a half, West-South-West two +miles, where a river flowed in from the right, West by South one mile +and a half, West-North-West one mile, and West by North two miles. Here +the land takes the form of an high ridge, and cut our course, which was +West for three miles, at right angles. We now completed the voyage of +this day.</p> + +<p>In the preceding night the water rose upwards of two inches, and had +risen in this proportion since our departure. The wind, which was +West-South-West, blew very hard throughout the day, and with the +strength of the current, greatly impeded our progress. The river, in +this part of it, is full of islands; <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p43"></A>43}</SPAN>and the land, on the South or left +side, is thick with wood. Several rivulets also fall in from that +quarter. At the entrance of the last river which we passed, there was a +quantity of wood, which had been cut down by axes, and some by the +beaver. This fall, however, was not made, in the opinion of my people, +by any of the Indians with whom we were acquainted.</p> + +<p>The land to the right is of a very irregular elevation and appearance, +composed in some places of clay, and rocky cliffs, and others exhibiting +stratas of red, green, and yellow colours. Some parts, indeed, offer a +beautiful scenery, in some degree similar to that which we passed on the +second day of our voyage, and equally enlivened with the elk and the +buffalo, who were feeding in great numbers, and unmolested by the +hunter. In an island which we passed, there was a large quantity of +white birch, whose bark might be employed in the construction of canoes.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 16.</i>—The weather being clear, we re-embarked at four in +the morning, and proceeded West by North three miles. Here the land +again appeared as if it run across our course, and a considerable river +discharged itself by various streams. According to the Rocky Mountain +Indian, it is called the Sinew River. This spot would be an excellent +situation for a fort or factory, as there is plenty <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p44"></A>44}</SPAN>of wood, and every +reason to believe that the country abounds in beaver. As for the other +animals, they are in evident abundance, as in every direction the elk +and the buffalo are seen in possession of the hills and the plains. Our +course continued West-North-West three miles and a half, North-West one +mile and a half, South-West by West two miles; (the latitude was by +observation 56. 16. 54.) North, West by North half a mile, +West-North-West three quarters of a mile; a small river appearing on the +right, North-West one mile and a half, West by North half a mile, West +by South one mile and a half, West one mile; and at seven we formed our +encampment.</p> + +<p>Mr. Mackay, and one of the young men, killed two elks, and mortally +wounded a buffalo, but we only took a part of the flesh of the former. +The land above the spot where we encamped, spreads into an extensive +plain, and stretches on to a very high ridge, which, in some parts, +presents a face of rock, but is principally covered with verdure, and +varied with the poplar and white birch tree. The country is so crowded +with animals as to have the appearance, in some places, of a stall-yard, +from the state of the ground, and the quantity of dung which is +scattered over it. The soil is black and light. We this day saw two +grisly and hideous bears.</p> + + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p45"></A>45}</SPAN> <i>Friday, 17.</i>—It froze during the night, and the air was sharp in the +morning, when we continued our course West-North-West three miles and a +half, South-West by South two miles and a half, South-West by West one +mile and a half, West three quarters of a mile, West-South-West one mile +and a quarter, and South-West by South one mile and a half. At two in +the afternoon the rocky mountains appeared in sight, with their summits +covered with snow, bearing South-West by South: they formed a very +agreeable object to every person in the canoe, as we attained the view +of them much sooner than we expected. A small river was seen on our +right, and we continued our progress South-West by South six miles, when +we landed at seven, which was our usual hour of encampment.</p> + +<p>Mr. Mackay, who was walking along the side of the river, discharged his +piece at a buffalo, when it burst near the muzzle, but without any +mischievous consequences. On the high grounds, which were on the +opposite side of the river, we saw a buffalo tearing up and down with +great fury, but could not discern the cause of his impetuous motions; my +hunters conjectured that he had been wounded with on arrow by some of +the natives. We ascended several rapids in the course of the day, and +saw one bear.</p> + + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p46"></A>46}</SPAN> <i>Saturday, 18.</i>—It again froze very hard during the night, and at +four in the morning we continued our voyage, but we had not proceeded +two hundred yards, before an accident happened to the canoe, which did +not, however, employ more than three quarters of an hour to complete the +repair. We then steered South by West one mile and three quarters, +South-West by South three miles, South-West by West one mile and a +quarter, West by South three quarters of a mile, South-West half a mile, +West by South one mile, South by West one mile and a half, +South-South-West, where there is a small run of water from the right, +three miles and a half, when the canoe struck on the stump of a tree, +and unfortunately where the banks were so steep that there was no place +to unload, except a small spot, on which we contrived to dispose the +lading in the bow, which lightened the canoe so as to raise the broken +part of it above the surface of the water; by which contrivance we +reached a convenient situation. It required, however, two hours to +complete the repair, when the weather became dark and cloudy, with +thunder, lightning, and rain; we, however, continued the last course +half a mile, and at six in the evening we were compelled by the rain to +land for the night.</p> + +<p>About noon we had landed on an island where there were eight lodges of +last year. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p47"></A>47}</SPAN>The natives had prepared bark here for five canoes, and there is a road +along the hills where they had passed. Branches were out and broken +along it; and they had also stripped off the bark of the trees, to get +the interior rind, which forms part of their food.</p> + +<p>The current was very strong through the whole of the day, and the coming +up along some of the banks was rendered very dangerous, from the +continual falling of large stones, from the upper parts of them. This +place appears to be a particular pass for animals across the river, as +there are paths leading to it on both sides, every ten yards.</p> + +<p>In the course of the day we saw a ground hog, and two cormorants. The +earth also appeared in several places to have been turned up by the +bears, in search of roots.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 19.</i>—It rained very hard in the early part of the night, but +the weather became clear towards the morning, when we embarked at our +usual hour. As the current threatened to be very strong, Mr. Mackay, +the two hunters, and myself, went on shore, in order to lighten the +canoe, and ascended the hills, which are covered with cypress, and but +little encumbered with underwood. We found a beaten path, and before we +had walked a mile, fell in with a herd of buffaloes, with their young +ones: but I would <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p48"></A>48}</SPAN>not suffer the Indians to fire on them, from an +apprehension that the report of their fowling pieces would alarm the +natives that might be in the neighbourhood; for we were at this time so +near the mountains, as to justify our expectation of seeing some of +them. We, however, sent our dog after the herd, and a calf was soon +secured by him. While the young men were skinning the animal, we heard +two reports of fire arms from the canoe, which we answered, as it was a +signal for my return; we then heard another, and immediately hastened +down the hill, with our veal, through a very close wood. There we met +one of the men, who informed us that the canoe was at a small distance +below, at the foot of a very strong rapid, and that as several +waterfalls appeared up the river, we should be obliged to unload and +carry. I accordingly hastened to the canoe, and was greatly displeased +that so much time had been lost, as I had given previous directions that +the river should be followed as long as it was practicable. The last +Indians whom we saw had informed us that at the first mountain there was +a considerable succession of rapids, cascades, and falls, which they +never attempted to ascend; and where they always passed over land the +length of a day's march. My men imagined that the carrying place was at +a small distance below us, as a path <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p49"></A>49}</SPAN>appeared to ascend a hill, where +there were several lodges, of the last year's construction. The account +which had been given me of the rapids, was perfectly correct: though by +crossing to the other side, I must acknowledge with some risk, in such a +heavy laden canoe, the river appeared to me to be practicable, as far as +we could see: the traverse, therefore, was attempted, and proved +successful. We now towed the canoe along an island, and proceeded +without any considerable difficulty, till we reached the extremity of +it, when the line could be no longer employed; and in endeavouring to +clear the point of the island, the canoe was driven with such violence +on a stony shore, as to receive considerable injury. We now employed +every exertion in our power to repair the breach that had been made, as +well as to dry such articles of our loading as more immediately required +it: we then transported the whole across the point, when we reloaded, +and continued our course about three quarters of a mile. We could now +proceed no further on this side of the water, and the traverse was +rendered extremely dangerous, not only from the strength of the current, +but by the cascades just below us, which, if we had got among them, +would have involved us and the canoe in one common destruction. We had +no other alternative than to return by the same course we came, or to +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p50"></A>50}</SPAN>hazard the traverse, the river on this side being bounded by a range of +steep, over-hanging rocks, beneath which the current was driven on with +resistless impetuosity from the cascades. Here are several islands of +solid rock, covered with a small portion of verdure, which have been +worn away by the constant force of the current, and occasionally, as I +presume, of ice, at the water's edge, so as to be reduced in that part +to one fourth the extent of the upper surface; presenting, as it were, +so many large tables, each of which was supported by a pedestal of a +more circumscribed projection. They are very elevated for such a +situation, and afford an asylum for geese, which were at this time +breeding on them. By crossing from one to the other of these islands, +we came at length to the main traverse, on which we ventured, and were +successful in our passage. Mr. Mackay, and the Indians, who observed +our manoeuvres from the top of a rock, were in continual alarm for our +safety, with which their own, indeed, may be said to have been nearly +connected: however, the dangers that we encountered were very much +augmented by the heavy loading of the canoe.</p> + +<p>When we had effected our passage, the current on the West side was +almost equally violent with that from whence we had just escaped, but +the craggy bank being somewhat <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p51"></A>51}</SPAN>lower, we were enabled, with a line of +sixty fathoms, to tow the canoe, till we came to the foot of the most +rapid cascade we had hitherto seen. Here we unloaded, and carried every +thing over a rocky point of an hundred and twenty paces. When the canoe +was reloaded, I, with those of my people who were not immediately +employed, ascended the bank, which was there, and indeed, as far as we +could see, composed of clay, stone, and a yellow gravel. My present +situation was so elevated, that the men, who were coming up a strong +point, could not hear me, though I called to them with the utmost +strength of my voice, to lighten the canoe of part of its lading. And +here I could not but reflect, with infinite anxiety, on the hazard of my +enterprize; one false step of those who were attached to the line, or +the breaking of the line itself, would have at once consigned the canoe, +and every thing it contained, to instant destruction: it, however, +ascended the rapid in perfect security, but new dangers immediately +presented themselves, for stones, both small and great, were continually +rolling from the bank, so as to render the situation of those who were +dragging the canoe beneath it extremely perilous; besides, they were at +every step in danger, from the steepness of the ground, of falling into +the water: nor was my solicitude diminished by my being <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p52"></A>52}</SPAN>necessarily +removed at times from the sight of them.</p> + +<p>In our passage through the woods, we came to an inclosure, which had +been formed by the natives for the purpose of setting snares for the +elk, and of which we could not discover the extent. After we had +travelled for some hours through the forest, which consisted of the +spruce, birch, and the largest poplars I had ever seen, we sunk down +upon the river where the bank is low, and near the foot of a mountain; +between which, and a high ridge, the river flows in a channel of about +one hundred yards broad; though, at a small distance below, it rushes on +between perpendicular rocks, where it is not much more than half that +breadth. Here I remained, in great anxiety, expecting the arrival of +the canoe, and after some time I sent Mr. Mackay with one of the Indians +down the river in search of it, and with the other I went up to it to +examine what we might expect in that quarter. In about a mile and a +half I came to a part where the river washes the feet of lofty +precipices, and presented, in the form of rapids and cascades, a +succession of difficulties to our navigation. As the canoe did not come +in sight, we returned, and from the place where I had separated with +Mr. Mackay, we saw the men carrying it over a small rocky point. We met +them at the entrance of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p53"></A>53}</SPAN>narrow channel already mentioned; their +difficulties had been great indeed, and the canoe had been broken, but +they had persevered with success, and having passed the carrying-place, +we proceeded with the line as far as I had already been, when we crossed +over and encamped on the opposite beach; but there was no wood on this +side of the water, as the adjacent country had been entirely over-run by +fire. We saw several elks feeding on the edge of the opposite +precipice, which was upwards of three hundred feet high.</p> + +<p>Our course to-day was about South-South-West two miles and a half, +South-West half a mile, South-West by South one mile and a half, South +by West half a mile, South-West half a mile, and West one mile and a +half. There was a shower of hail, and some rain from flying clouds. I +now dispatched a man with an Indian to visit the rapids above, when the +latter soon left him to pursue a beaver, which was seen in the shallow +water on the inside of a stony island; and though Mr. Mackay, and the +other Indian joined him, the animal at length escaped from their +pursuit. Several others were seen in the course of the day, which I by +no means expected, as the banks are almost every where so much elevated +above the channel of the river. Just as the obscurity of the night drew +on, the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p54"></A>54}</SPAN>man returned with an account that it would be impracticable to +pass several points, as well as the super-impending promontories.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 20.</i>—The weather was clear with a sharp air, and we renewed +our voyage at quarter past four, on a course South-West by West three +quarters of a mile. We now, with infinite difficulty passed along the +foot of a rock, which, fortunately, was not an hard stone, so that we +were enabled to cut steps in it for the distance of twenty feet; from +which, at the hazard of my life, I leaped on a small rock below, where I +received those who followed me on my shoulders. In this manner four of +us passed and dragged up the canoe, in which attempt we broke her. Very +luckily, a dry tree had fallen from the rock above us, without which we +could not have made a fire, as no wood was to be procured within a mile +of the place. When the canoe was repaired, we continued towing it along +the rocks to the next point, when we embarked, as we could not at +present make any further use of the line, but got along the rocks of a +round high island of stone, till we came to a small sandy bay. As we +had already damaged the canoe, and had every reason to think that she +soon would risk much greater injury, it became necessary for us to +supply ourselves with bark, as our provision of that material article +was almost exhausted two men were <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p55"></A>55}</SPAN>accordingly sent to procure it, who +soon returned with the necessary store.</p> + +<p>Mr. Mackay, and the Indians who had been on shore, since we broke the +canoe, were prevented from coming to us by the rugged and impassable +state of the ground. We, therefore, again resumed our course with the +assistance of poles, with which we pushed onwards till we came beneath a +precipice, where we could not find any bottom; so that we were again +obliged to have recourse to the line, the management of which was +rendered not only difficult but dangerous, as the men employed in towing +were under the necessity of passing on the outside of trees that grew on +the edge of the precipice. We, however, surmounted this difficulty, as +we had done many others, and the people who had been walking over land +now joined us. They also had met with their obstacles in passing the +mountain.</p> + +<p>It now became necessary for us to make a traverse, where the water was +so rapid, that some of the people stripped themselves to their shirts +that they might be the better prepared for swimming, in case any +accident happened to the canoe, which they seriously apprehended; but we +succeeded in our attempt without any other inconvenience, except that of +taking in water. We now came to a cascade, when it was thought +necessary <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p56"></A>56}</SPAN>to take out part of the lading. At noon we stopped to take an +altitude, opposite to a small river that flowed in from the left: while +I was thus engaged, the men went on shore to fasten the canoe, but as +the current was not very strong, they had been negligent in performing +this office; it proved, however, sufficiently powerful to sheer her off, +and if it had not happened that one of the men, from absolute fatigue +had remained and held the end of the line, we should have been deprived +of every means of prosecuting our voyage, as well as of present +subsistence. But notwithstanding the state of my mind on such an +alarming circumstance, and an intervening cloud that interrupted me, the +altitude which I took has been since proved to be tolerably correct, and +gave 56. North latitude. Our last course was South-South-West two miles +and a quarter.</p> + +<p>We now continued our toilsome and perilous progress with the line West +by North, and as we proceeded the rapidity of the current increased, so +that in the distance of two miles we were obliged to unload four times, +and carry every thing but the canoe: indeed, in many places, it was with +the utmost difficulty that we could prevent her from being dashed to +pieces against the rocks by the violence of the eddies. At five we had +proceeded to where the river was one continued rapid.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p57"></A>57}</SPAN>Here we again took every thing out of the canoe, in order to tow her up +with the line, though the rocks were so shelving as greatly to increase +the toil and hazard of that operation. At length, however, the +agitation of the water was so great, that a wave striking on the bow of +the canoe broke the line, and filled us with inexpressible dismay, as it +appeared impossible that the vessel could escape from being dashed to +pieces, and those who were in her from perishing. Another wave, +however, more propitious than the former, drove her out of the tumbling +water, so that the men were enabled to bring her ashore, and though she +had been carried over rocks by these swells which left them naked a +moment after, the canoe had received no material injury. The men were, +however, in such a state from their late alarm, that it would not only +have been unavailing but imprudent to have proposed any further progress +at present, particularly as the river above us, as far as we could see, +was one white sheet of foaming water.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c2-hr1" href="#v2-c2-hl1">[1]</a> These people, as well as all the natives on this side of Lake +Winipic, give the mercantile agent that distinguished appellation.</p> + + + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p58"></A>58}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter3" href="#toc_chapter3"> CHAPTER III.</a></h4></center> + +<p>MAY, 1793.</p> + +<p>That the discouragements, difficulties, and dangers, which had hitherto +attended the progress of our enterprise, should have excited a wish in +several of those who were engaged in it to discontinue the pursuit, +might be naturally expected; and indeed it began to be muttered on all +sides that there was no alternative but to return.</p> + +<p>Instead of paying any attention to these murmurs, I desired those who +had uttered them to exert themselves in gaining an ascent of the hill, +and encamp there for the night. In the mean time I set off with one of +the Indians, and though I continued my examination of the river almost +as long as there was any light to assist me, I could see no end of the +rapids and cascades: I was, therefore, perfectly satisfied, that it +would be impracticable to proceed any further by water. We returned +from this reconnoitring excursion very much fatigued, with our shoes +worn out and wounded feet; when I found that, by felling trees on the +declivity of the first hill, my people had contrived to ascend it.</p> + +<p>From the place where I had taken the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p59"></A>59}</SPAN>altitude at noon, to the place +where we made our landing, the river is not more than fifty yards wide, +and flows between stupendous rocks, from whence huge fragments sometimes +tumble down, and falling from such an height, dash into small stones, +with sharp points, and form the beach between the rocky projections. +Along the face of some of these precipices, there appears a stratum of a +bitumenous substance which resembles coal; though while some of the +pieces of it appeared to be excellent fuel, others resisted, for a +considerable time, the action of fire, and did not emit the least flame. +The whole of this day's course would have been altogether impracticable, +if the water had been higher, which must be the case at certain seasons. +We saw also several encampments of the Knisteneaux along the river, +which must have been formed by them on their war excursions: a decided +proof of the savage, blood-thirsty disposition of that people; as +nothing less than such a spirit could impel them to encounter the +difficulties of this almost inaccessible country, whose natives are +equally unoffending and defenceless.</p> + +<p>Mr. Mackay informed me, that in passing over the mountains, he observed +several chasms in the earth that emitted heat and smoke, which diffused +a strong sulphureous stench. I should certainly have visited this +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p60"></A>60}</SPAN>phenomenon, if I had been sufficiently qualified as a naturalist, to +have offered scientific conjectures or observations thereon.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 21.</i>—It rained in the morning, and did not cease till about +eight, and as the men had been very fatigued and disheartened, I +suffered them to continue their rest till that hour. Such was the state +of the river, as I have already observed, that no alternative was left +us; nor did any means of proceeding present themselves to us, but the +passage of the mountain over which we were to carry the canoe as well as +the baggage. As this was a very alarming enterprize, I dispatched +Mr. Mackay with three men and the two Indians to proceed in a strait +course from the top of the mountain, and to keep the line of the river +till they should find it navigable. If it should be their opinion, that +there was no practicable passage in that direction, two of them were +instructed to return in order to make their report; while the others +were to go in search of the Indian carrying-place. While they were +engaged in this excursion, the people who remained with me were employed +in gumming the canoe, and making handles for the axes. At noon I got an +altitude, which made our latitude 56. 0. 8. At three o'clock had time, +when my watch was slow 1. 31. 32. apparent time.</p> + +<p>At sun-set, Mr. Mackay returned with one <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p61"></A>61}</SPAN>of the men, and in about two +hours was followed by the others. They had penetrated thick woods, +ascended hills and sunk into vallies, till they got beyond the rapid, +which, according to their calculation, was a distance of three leagues. +The two parties returned by different routes, but they both agreed, that +with all its difficulties, and they were of a very alarming nature, the +outward course was that which must be preferred. Unpromising, however, +as the account of their expedition appeared, it did not sink them into a +state of discouragement; and a kettle of wild rice, sweetened with +sugar, which had been prepared for their return, with their usual regale +of rum, soon renewed that courage which disdained all obstacles that +threatened our progress: and they went to rest, with a full +determination to surmount them on the morrow. I sat up, in the hope of +getting an observation of Jupiter and his first satellite, but the +cloudy weather prevented my obtaining it.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 22.</i>—At break of day we entered on the extraordinary +journey which was to occupy the remaining part of it. The men began, +without delay, to cut a road up the mountain, and as the trees were but +of small growth, I ordered them to fell those which they found +convenient, in such a manner, that they might fall parallel with the +road, but, at the same time not separate them <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p62"></A>62}</SPAN>entirely from the stumps, +so that they might form a kind of railing on either side. The baggage +was now brought from the water side to our encampment. This was, +likewise, from the steep shelving of the rocks, a very perilous +undertaking, as one false step of any of the people employed in it, +would have been instantly followed by falling headlong into the water. +When this important object was attained, the whole of the party +proceeded with no small degree of apprehension, to fetch the canoe, +which, in a short time, was also brought to the encampment; and, as soon +as we had recovered from our fatigue, we advanced with it up the +mountain, having the line doubled and fastened successively as we went +on to the stumps; while a man at the end of it, hauled it around a tree, +holding it on and shifting it as we proceeded; so that we may be said, +with strict truth, to have warped the canoe up the mountain; indeed by a +general and most laborious exertion, we got every thing to the summit by +two in the afternoon. At noon, the latitude was 56. 0. 47. North. At +five, I sent the men to cut the road onwards, which they effected for +about a mile, when they returned:</p> + +<p>The weather was cloudy at intervals, with showers and thunder. At about +ten, I observed an emersion of Jupiter's second satellite; time by the +achrometer 8. 32. 20. by <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p63"></A>63}</SPAN>which I found the longitude to be 120. 29. 80 +West from Greenwich.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday 23.</i>—The weather was clear at four this morning, when the +men began to carry. I joined Mr. Mackay and the two Indians in the +labour of cutting a road. The ground continued rising gently till noon, +when it began to decline; but though on such an elevated situation, we +could see but little, as mountains of a still higher elevation, and +covered with snow, were seen far above us in every direction. In the +afternoon the ground became very uneven; hills and deep defiles +alternately presented themselves to us. Our progress, however, exceeded +my expectation, and it was not till four in the afternoon that the +carriers overtook us. At five, in a state of fatigue that may be more +readily conceived than expressed, we encamped near a rivulet or spring +that issued from beneath a large mass of ice and snow.</p> + +<p>Our toilsome journey of this day I compute at about three miles; along +the first of which the land is covered with plenty of wood, consisting +of large trees, encumbered with little underwood, through which it was +by no means difficult to open a road, by following a well-beaten elk +path: for the two succeeding miles we found the country overspread with +the trunks of trees, laid low by fire some years <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p64"></A>64}</SPAN>ago; among which large +copses had sprung up of a close growth, and intermixed with briars, so +as to render the passage through them painful and tedious. The soil in +the woods is light and of a dusky colour; that in the burned country is +a mixture of sand and clay with small stones. The trees are spruce, +red-pine, cypress, poplar, white birch, willow, alder, arrow-wood, +red-wood, liard, service-tree, bois-picant, &c. I never saw any of the +last kind before. It rises to about nine feet in height, grows in +joints without branches, and is tufted at the extremity. The stem is of +an equal size from the bottom to the top, and does not exceed an inch in +diameter; it is covered with small prickles, which caught our trowsers, +and working through them, sometimes found their way to the flesh. The +shrubs are, the gooseberry, the currant, and several kinds of briars.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 24.</i>—We continued our very laborious journey, which led us +down some steep hills, and through a wood of tall pines. After much +toil and trouble in bearing the canoe through the difficult passages +which we encountered, at four in the afternoon we arrived at the river, +some hundred yards above the rapids or falls, with all our baggage. I +compute the distance of this day's progress to be about four miles; +indeed I should have measured the whole of the way, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p65"></A>65}</SPAN>if I had not been +obliged to engage personally in the labour of making the road. But +after all, the Indian carrying-way, whatever may be its length, and I +think it cannot exceed ten miles, will always be found more safe and +expeditious than the passage which our toil and perseverance formed and +surmounted.</p> + +<p>Those of my people who visited this place on the 21st, were of opinion +that the water had risen very much since that time. About two hundred +yards below us, the stream rushed with an astonishing but silent +velocity, between perpendicular rocks, which are not more than +thirty-five yards asunder: when the water is high, it runs over those +rocks, in a channel three times that breadth, where it is bounded by far +more elevated precipices. In the former are deep round holes, some of +which are full of water, while others are empty, in whose bottom are +small round stones, as smooth as marble. Some of these natural +cylinders would contain two hundred gallons. At a small distance below +the first of these rocks, the channel widens in a kind of zig-zag +progression; and it was really awful to behold with what infinite force +the water drives against the rocks on one side, and with what impetuous +strength it is repelled to the other: it then falls back, as it were, +into a more strait but rugged passage, over which it is tossed in high, +foaming, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p66"></A>66}</SPAN>half-formed billows, as far as the eye could follow it.</p> + +<p>The young men informed me that this was the place where their relations +had told me that I should meet with a fall equal to that of Niagara: to +exculpate them, however, from their apparent misinformation, they +declared that their friends were not accustomed to utter falsehoods, and +that the fall had probably been destroyed by the force of the water. It +is, however, very evident that those people had not been here, or did +not adhere to the truth. By the number of trees which appeared to have +been felled with axes, we discovered that the Knisteneaux, or some +tribes who are known to employ that instrument, had passed this way. We +passed through a snare enclosure, but saw no animals, though the country +was very much intersected by their tracks.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 25.</i>—It rained throughout the night, and till twelve this +day; while the business of preparing great and small poles, and putting +the canoe in order, &c. caused us to remain here till five in the +afternoon. I now attached a knife, with a steel, flint, beads, and +other trifling articles to a pole, which I erected, and left as a token +of amity to the natives. When I was making this arrangement, one of my +attendants, whom I have already described under the title of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p67"></A>67}</SPAN>Cancre, +added to my assortment, a small round piece of green wood, chewed at one +end in the form of a brush, which the Indians used to pick the marrow +out of bones. This he informed me was an emblem of a country abounding +in animals. The water had risen during our stay here one foot and a +half perpendicular height.</p> + +<p>We now embarked, and our course was North-West one mile and three +quarters. There were mountains on all sides of us, which were covered +with snow; one in particular, on the South side of the river, rose to a +great height. We continued to proceed West three quarters of a mile, +North-West one mile, and West-South-West a quarter of a mile, when we +encamped for the night. The Cancre killed a small elk.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 26.</i>—The weather was clear and sharp, and between three and +four in the morning we renewed our voyage, our first course being West +by South three miles and a half, when the men complained of the cold in +their fingers, as they were obliged to push on the canoe with the poles. +Here a small river flowed in from the North. We now continued to steer +West-South-West a quarter of a mile; West-North-West a mile and a half, +and West two miles, when we found ourselves on a parallel with a chain +of mountains on both sides of the river, running South <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p68"></A>68}</SPAN>and North. The +river, both yesterday and the early part of to-day, was from four to +eight hundred yards wide, and full of islands, but was at this time +diminished to about two hundred yards broad, and free from islands, with +a smooth but strong current. Our next course was South-West two miles, +when we encountered a rapid, and saw an encampment of the Knisteneaux. +We now proceeded North-West by West one mile, among islands, South-West +by West three quarters of a mile, South-South-East one mile, veered to +South-West through islands three miles and a half, and South by East +half a mile. Here a river poured in on the left, which was the most +considerable that we had seen since we had passed the mountain. At +seven in the evening we landed and encamped.</p> + +<p>Though the sun had shone upon us throughout the day, the air was so cold +that the men, though actively employed, could not resist it without the +aid of their blanket coats. This circumstance might, in some degree, be +expected from the surrounding mountains, which were covered with ice and +snow; but as they are not so high as to produce the extreme cold which +we suffered, it must be more particularly attributed to the high +situation of the country itself, rather than to the local elevation of +the mountains, the greatest height of which does not exceed fifteen +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p69"></A>69}</SPAN>hundred feet; though in general they do not rise to half that altitude.</p> + +<p>But as I had not been able to take an exact measurement, I do not +presume upon the accuracy of my conjecture. Towards the bottom of these +heights, which were clear of snow, the trees were putting forth their +leaves, while those in their middle region still retained all the +characteristics of winter, and on the upper parts there was little or no +wood.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 27.</i>[<a name="v2-c3-hl1" href="#v2-c3-hr1">1]</a>—The weather was clear, and we continued our voyage +at the usual hour, when we successively found several rapids and points +to impede our progress. At noon our latitude was 56. 5. 54. North. The +Indians killed a stag; and one of the men who went to fetch it was very +much endangered by the rolling down of a large stone from the heights +above him.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 28.</i>—The day was very cloudy. The mountains on both sides +of the river seemed to have sunk, in their elevation, during the voyage +of yesterday. To-day they <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p70"></A>70}</SPAN>resumed their former altitude, and run so +close on either side of the channel, that all view was excluded of every +thing but themselves. This part of the current was not broken by +islands; but in the afternoon we approached some cascades, which obliged +us to carry our canoe and its lading for several hundred yards. Here we +observed an encampment of the natives, though some time had elapsed +since it had been inhabited. The greater part of the day was divided +between heavy showers and small rain; and we took our station on the +shore about six in the evening, about three miles above the last rapid.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 29.</i>—The rain was so violent throughout the whole of this +day, that we did not venture to proceed. As we had almost expended the +contents of a rum-keg, and this being a day which allowed of no active +employment, I amused myself with the experiment of enclosing a letter in +it, and dispatching it down the stream to take its fate. I accordingly +introduced a written account of all our hardships, &c. carefully +enclosed in bark, into the small barrel by the bung-hole, which being +carefully secured, I consigned this epistolatory cargo to the mercy of +the current.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 30.</i>—We were alarmed this morning at break of day, by the +continual <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p71"></A>71}</SPAN>barking of our dog, who never ceased from running backwards +and forwards in the rear of our situation: when, however, the day +advanced, we discovered the cause of our alarm to proceed from a wolf, +who was parading a ridge a few yards behind us, and had been most +probably allured by the scent of our small portion of fresh meat. The +weather was cloudy, but it did not prevent us from renewing our progress +at a very early hour. A considerable river appeared from the left, and +we continued our course till seven in the evening, when we landed at +night where there was an Indian encampment.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 31.</i>—The morning was clear and cold, and the current very +powerful. On crossing the mouth of a river that flowed in from the +right of us, we were very much endangered; indeed all the rivers which I +have lately seen, appear to overflow their natural limits, as it may be +supposed, from the melting of the mountain snow. The water is almost +white, the bed of the river being of limestone. The mountains are one +solid mass of the same material, but without the least shade of trees, +or decoration of foliage. At nine the men were so cold that we landed, +in order to kindle a fire, which was considered as a very uncommon +circumstance at this season; a small quantity of rum, however, served as +an adequate substitute; and the current being so <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p72"></A>72}</SPAN>smooth as to admit of +the use of paddles, I encouraged them to proceed without any further +delay. In a short time an extensive view opened upon us, displaying a +beautiful sheet of water, that was heightened by the calmness of the +weather, and a splendid sun. Here the mountains which were covered with +wood, opened on either side, so that we entertained the hope of soon +leaving them behind us. When we had got to the termination of this +prospect, the river was barred with rocks, forming cascades and small +islands. To proceed onwards, we were under the necessity of clearing a +narrow passage of the drift wood, on the left shore. Here the view +convinced us that our late hopes were without foundation, as there +appeared a ridge or chain of mountains, running South and North as far +as the eye could reach.</p> + +<p>On advancing two or three miles, we arrived at the fork, one branch +running about West-North-West, and the other South-South-East. If I had +been governed by my own judgment, I should have taken the former, as it +appeared to me to be the most likely to bring us nearest to the part +where I wished to fall on the Pacific Ocean, but the old man, whom I +have already mentioned as having been frequently on war expeditions in +this country, had warned me not, on any account, to follow it, as it was +soon lost in various branches among the mountains, and that there was no +great river that ran in any direction near it; but by following the +latter, he said, we should arrive at a carrying-place to another large +river, that did not exceed a day's march, where the inhabitants build +houses, and live upon islands. There was so much apparent truth in the +old man's narrative, that I determined to be governed by it; for I did +not entertain the least doubt, if I could get into the other river, that +I should reach the ocean.</p> + +<p>I accordingly ordered my steersman to proceed at once to the East +branch, which appeared to be more rapid than the other, though it did +not possess an equal breadth. These circumstances disposed my men and +Indians, the latter in particular being very tired of the voyage, to +express their wishes that I should take the Western branch, especially +when they perceived the difficulty of stemming the current, in the +direction on which I had determined. Indeed the rush of water was so +powerful, that we were the greatest part of the afternoon in getting two +or three miles—a very tardy and mortifying progress, and which, with +the voyage, was openly execrated by many of those who were engaged in +it: and the inexpressible toil these people had endured, as well as the +dangers they had <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p74"></A>74}</SPAN>encountered, required some degree of consideration; I +therefore employed those arguments which were the best calculated to +calm their immediate discontents, as well as to encourage their future +hopes, though, at the same time, I delivered my sentiments in such a +manner as to convince them that I was determined to proceed.</p> + +<p>On the 1st of June we embarked at sun-rise, and towards noon the current +began to slacken; we then put to shore, in order to gum the canoe, when +a meridian altitude gave me 55. 42. 16. North latitude. We then +continued our course, and towards the evening the current began to +recover its former strength. Mr. Mackay and the Indians had already +disembarked, to walk and lighten the boat. At sun-set we encamped on a +point, being the first dry land which had been found on this side the +river, that was fit for our purpose, since our people went on shore. In +the morning we passed a large rapid river, that flowed in from the +right.</p> + +<p>In no part of the North-West did I see so much beaver-work, within an +equal distance, as in the course of this day. In some places they had +cut down several acres of large poplars; and we saw also a great number +of these active and sagacious animals. The time which these wonderful +creatures allot for their labours, whether in erecting their curious +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p75"></A>75}</SPAN>habitations or providing food, is the whole of the interval between the +setting and the rising sun.</p> + +<p>Towards the dusky part of the evening we heard several discharges from +the fowling pieces of our people, which we answered, to inform them of +our situation; and some time after it was dark, they arrived in an equal +state of fatigue and alarm; they were also obliged to swim across a +channel in order to get to us, as we were situated on an island, though +we were ignorant of the circumstance, till they came to inform us. One +of the Indians was positive that he heard the discharge of fire-arms +above our encampment; and on comparing the number of our discharges with +theirs, there appeared to be some foundation for his alarm, as we +imagined that we had heard two reports more than they acknowledged; and +in their turn, they declared that they had heard twice the number of +those which we knew had proceeded from us. The Indians were therefore +certain, that the Knisteneaux must be in our vicinity, on a war +expedition, and consequently, if they were numerous, we should have had +no reason to expect the least mercy from them in this distant country. +Though I did not believe that circumstance, or that any of the natives +could be in possession of fire-arms, I thought it right, at all events, +we should <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p76"></A>76}</SPAN>be prepared. Our fusees were, therefore, primed and loaded, +and having extinguished our fire, each of us took his station at the +foot of a tree, where we passed an uneasy and restless night.</p> + +<p>The succeeding morning being clear and pleasant, we proceeded at an +early hour against a rapid current, intersected by islands. About eight +we passed two large trees, whose roots having been undermined by the +current, had recently fallen into the river; and, in my opinion, the +crash of their fall had occasioned the noise which caused our late +alarm. In this manner the water ravages the islands in these rivers, +and by driving down great quantities of wood, forms the foundations of +others. The men were so oppressed with fatigue, that it was necessary +they should encamp at six in the afternoon. We, therefore, landed on a +sandy island, which is a very uncommon object, as the greater part of +the islands consist of a bottom of round stones and gravel, covered from +three to ten feet with mud and old drift-wood. Beaver-work was as +frequently seen as on the preceding day.</p> + +<p>On the 3d of June we renewed our voyage with the rising sun. At noon I +obtained a meridian altitude, which gave 55. 22. 3. North latitude. I +also took time, and the watch was slow 1. 30. 14. apparent time. +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p77"></A>77}</SPAN>According to my calculation, this place is about twenty-five miles +South-East of the fork.<a name="v2-c3-hl2" href="#v2-c3-hr2">[2]</a></p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c3-hr1" href="#v2-c3-hl1">[1]</a> From this day to the 4th of June the courses of my voyage are +omitted, as I lost the book that contained them. I was in the habit of +sometimes indulging myself with a short doze in the canoe, and I imagine +that the branches of the trees brushed my book from me, when I was in +such a situation, which renders the account of these few days less +distinct than usual.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c3-hr2" href="#v2-c3-hl2">[2]</a> I shall now proceed with my usual regularity, which, as I have +already mentioned, has been, for some days, suspended, from the loss of +my book of observation.</p> + + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p78"></A>78}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter4" href="#toc_chapter4"> CHAPTER IV.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JUNE 4, 1793.</p> + +<p> We embarked this morning at four in a very heavy fog. +The water had been continually rising, and, in many places, overflowed +its banks. The current also was so strong that our progress was very +tedious, and required the most laborious exertions. Our course was this +day, South-South-East one mile, South-South-West half a mile, South-East +three quarters of a mile, North-East by East three quarters of a mile, +South-East half a mile, South-East by South one mile, South-South-East +one mile and three quarters, South-East by South half a mile, East by +South a quarter of a mile, South-East three quarters of a mile, +North-East by East half a mile, East by North a quarter of a mile, +South-East half a mile, South-East by South a quarter of a mile, +South-East by East half a mile, North-East by East half a mile, +North-North-East three quarters of a mile to South by East one mile and +a half. We could not find a place fit for an encampment, till nine at +night, when we landed on a bank of gravel, of which little more appeared +above water than the spot we occupied.</p> + + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p79"></A>79}</SPAN> <i>Wednesday, 5.</i>—This morning we found our canoe and baggage in the +water, which had continued rising during the night. We then gummed the +canoe, as we arrived at too late an hour to perform that operation on +the preceding evening. This necessary business being completed, we +traversed to the North shore, where I disembarked with Mr. Mackay, and +the hunters, in order to ascend an adjacent mountain, with the hope of +obtaining a view of the interior part of the country. I directed my +people to proceed with all possible diligence, and that, if they met +with any accident, or found my return necessary, they should fire two +guns. They also understood, that when they should hear the same signal +from me, they were to answer, and wait for me, if I were behind them.</p> + +<p>When we had ascended to the summit of the hill, we found that it +extended onwards in an even, level country; so that, encumbered as we +were, with the thick wood, no distant view could be obtained; I +therefore climbed a very lofty tree, from whose top I discerned on the +right a ridge of mountains covered with snow, bearing about North-West; +from thence another ridge of high land, whereon no snow was visible, +stretched towards the South: between which and the snowy hills on the +East side, there appeared to be an <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p80"></A>80}</SPAN>opening, which we determined to be +the course of the river.</p> + +<p>Having obtained all the satisfaction that the nature of the place would +admit, we proceeded forward to overtake the canoe, and after a warm walk +came down upon the river, when we discharged our pieces twice, but +received no answering signal. I was of opinion, that the canoe was +before us, while the Indians entertained an opposite notion. I, +however, crossed another point of land, and came again to the waterside +about ten. Here we had a long view of the river, which circumstance +excited in my mind, some doubts of my former sentiments. We repeated +our signals, but without any return; and as every moment now increased +my anxiety, I left Mr. Mackay and one of the Indians at this spot to +make a large fire, and sent branches adrift down the current as notices +of our situation, if the canoe was behind us; and proceeded with the +other Indian across a very long point, where the river makes a +considerable bend, in order that I might be satisfied if the canoe was +a-head. Having been accustomed, for the last fortnight, to very cold +weather, I found the heat of this day almost insupportable, as our way +lay over a dry sand, which was relieved by no shade, but such as a few +scattered cypresses could afford us. About twelve, we arrived once more +at the river, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p81"></A>81}</SPAN>and the discharge of our pieces was as unsuccessful as it +had hitherto been. The water rushed before us with uncommon velocity; +and we also tried the experiment of sending fresh branches down it. To +add to the disagreeableness of our situation, the gnats and mosquitoes +appeared in swarms to torment us. When we returned to our companions, +we found that they had not been contented with remaining in the position +where I had left them, but had been three or four miles down the river, +but were come back to their station, without having made any discovery +of the people on the water.</p> + +<p>Various very unpleasing conjectures at once perplexed and distressed us: +the Indians, who are inclined to magnify evils of any and every kind, +had at once consigned the canoe and every one on board it to the bottom; +and were already settling a plan to return upon a raft, as well as +calculating the number of nights that would be required to reach their +home. As for myself, it will be easily believed, that my mind was in a +state of extreme agitation, and the imprudence of my conduct in leaving +the people, in such a situation of danger and toilsome exertion added a +very painful mortification to the severe apprehensions I already +suffered: it was an act of indiscretion which might have put an end to +the voyage that I had so much at heart, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p82"></A>82}</SPAN>and compelled me at length to +submit to the scheme which my hunters had already formed for our return.</p> + +<p>At half past six in the evening, Mr. Mackay and the Cancre set off to +proceed down the river, as far as they could before the night came on, +and to continue their journey in the morning to the place where we had +encamped the preceding evening. I also proposed to make my excursion +upwards; and, if we both failed of success in meeting the canoe, it was +agreed that we should return to the place where we now separated.</p> + +<p>In this situation we had wherewithal to drink in plenty, but with solid +food we were totally unprovided. We had not seen even a partridge +throughout the day, and the tracks of rein-deer that we had discovered, +were of an old date. We were, however, preparing to make a bed of the +branches of trees, where we should have had no other canopy than that +afforded us by the heavens, when we heard a shot, and soon after +another, which was the notice agreed upon, if Mr. Mackay and the Indian +should see the canoe: that fortunate circumstance was also confirmed by +a return of the signal from the people. I was, however, so fatigued +from the heat and exercise of the day, as well as incommoded from +drinking so much cold water, that I did not wish to remove till the +following <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p83"></A>83}</SPAN>morning; but the Indian made such bitter complaints of the +cold and hunger he suffered, that I complied with his solicitations to +depart; and it was almost dark when we reached the canoe, barefooted, +and drenched with rain. But these inconveniences affected me very +little, when I saw myself once more surrounded with my people. They +informed me, that the canoe had been broken; and that they had this day +experienced much greater toil and hardships than on any former occasion. +I thought it prudent to affect a belief of every representation that +they made, and even to comfort each of them with a consolatory dram: +for, however difficult the passage might have been, it was too short to +have occupied the whole day, if they had not relaxed in their exertions. +The rain was accompanied with thunder and lightning.</p> + +<p>It appeared from the various encampments which we had seen, and from +several paddles we had found, that the natives frequent this part of the +country at the latter end of the summer and the fall. The course to-day +was nearly East-South-East two miles and a half, South by West one mile, +South-South-East one mile and a half, East two miles, and South-East by +South one mile.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 6.</i>—At half past four this morning we continued our +voyage, our courses being South-East by South one mile, East by <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p84"></A>84}</SPAN>South +three quarters of a mile, South-East by East two miles. The whole of +this distance we proceeded by hauling the canoe from branch to branch. +The current was so strong, that it was impossible to stem it with the +paddles; the depth was too great to receive any assistance from the +poles, and the bank of the river was so closely lined with willows and +other trees, that it was impossible to employ the line. As it was past +twelve before we could find a place that would allow of our landing, I +could not get a meridian altitude. We occupied the rest of the day in +repairing the canoe, drying our cloaths, and making paddles and poles to +replace those which had been broken or lost.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 7.</i>—The morning was clear and calm; and since we had been at +this station the water had risen two inches; so that the current became +still stronger; and its velocity had already been so great as to justify +our despair in getting up it, if we had not been so long accustomed to +surmount. I last night observed an emersion of Jupiter's first +satellite, but inadvertently went to bed, without committing the exact +time to writing: if my memory is correct, it was 8. 18. 10. by the +timepiece. The canoe, which had been little better than a wreck, being +now repaired, we proceeded East two miles and a quarter, +South-South-East half a mile, South-East <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p85"></A>85}</SPAN>a quarter of a mile, when we +landed to take an altitude for time. We continued our route at +South-East by East three quarters of a mile, and landed again to +determine the latitude, which is 55. 2. 51. To this I add, 2. 45. +Southing, which will make the place of taking altitude for time +55. 5. 36. with which I find that my time-piece was slow 1. 32. 23. +apparent time; and made the longitude obtained 122. 35. 50. West of +Greenwich.</p> + +<p>From this place we proceeded East by South four miles and a half, +East-South-East one mile and a half, in which space there falls in a +small river from the East; East half a mile, South-East a mile and a +half, East a quarter of a mile, and encamped at seven o'clock. +Mr. Mackay and the hunters walked the greatest part of the day, and in +the course of their excursion killed a porcupine.<a name="v2-c4-hl1" href="#v2-c4-hr1">[1]</a> Here we found the +bed of a very large bear quite fresh. During the day several Indian +encampments were seen, which were of a late erection. The current had +also lost some of its impetuosity during the greater part of the day.</p> + + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p86"></A>86}</SPAN> <i>Saturday, 8.</i>—It rained and thundered through the night, and at four +in the morning we again encountered the current. Our course was East a +quarter of a mile, round to South by East along a very high white sandy +bank on the East shore, three quarters of a mile, South-South-East a +quarter of a mile, South-South-West a quarter of a mile, +South-South-East one mile and a quarter, South-East two miles, with a +slack current; South-East by East two miles and a quarter, East a +quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by +South four miles and a half, South-East one mile and a half, +South-South-West half a mile, East-North-East half a mile, +East-South-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by South one mile, +South-East by East half a mile, East by South three quarters of a mile, +when the mountains were in full view in this direction, and Eastward. +For the three last days we could only see them at short intervals and +long distances; but till then, they were continually in sight on either +side, from our entrance into the fork. Those to the left were at no +great distance from us.</p> + +<p>For the last two days we had been anxiously looking out for the +carrying-place, but could not discover it, and our only hope was in such +information as we should be able to procure from the natives. All that +remained for us <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p87"></A>87}</SPAN>to do, was to push forwards till the river should be no +longer navigable: it had now, indeed, overflowed its banks, so that it +was eight at night before we could discover a place to encamp. Having +found plenty of wild parsnips, we gathered the tops, and boiled them +with pemmican for our supper.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 9.</i>—The rain of this morning terminated in a heavy mist at +half past five, when we embarked and steered South-East one mile and a +half, when it veered North-North-East half a mile, South-East three +quarters of a mile, East by South three quarters of a mile, +East-South-East a quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a +mile, South-East by East one mile, North-East by East half a mile, +South-East by East half a mile, South-East by South three quarters of a +mile, South-East three quarters of a mile, East by South half a mile, +South-East by East half a mile, East-North-East three quarters of a +mile, when it veered to South-South-East half a mile, then back to East +(when a blue mountain, clear of snow, appeared a-head) one mile and a +half; North-East by East half a mile, East by North one mile, when it +veered to South-East half a mile, then on to North-West three quarters +of a mile, and back to North-East by East half a mile, South by West a +quarter of a mile, North-East by East to North-North-East half <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p88"></A>88}</SPAN>a mile, +South-South-East a quarter of a mile, and East by North half a mile; +here we perceived a smell of fire; and in a short time heard people in +the woods, as if in a state of great confusion, which was occasioned, as +we afterwards understood, by their discovery of us. At the same time +this unexpected circumstance produced some little discomposure among +ourselves, as our arms were not in a state of preparation, and we were +as yet unable to ascertain the number of the party. I considered, that +if there were but few, it would be needless to pursue them, as it would +not be probable that we should overtake them in these thick woods; and +if they were numerous, it would be an act of great imprudence to make +the attempt, at least during their present alarm. I therefore ordered +my people to strike off to the opposite side, that we might see if any +of them had sufficient courage to remain; but, before we were half over +the river, which in this part is not more than a hundred yards wide, two +men appeared on a rising ground over against us, brandishing their +spears, displaying their bows and arrows, and accompanying their hostile +gestures with loud vociferations. My interpreter did not hesitate to +assure them, that they might dispel their apprehensions, as we were +white people, who meditated no injury, but were, on the contrary, +desirous of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p89"></A>89}</SPAN>demonstrating every mark of kindness and friendship. They +did not, however, seem disposed to confide in our declarations, and +actually threatened, if we came over before they were more fully +satisfied of our peaceable intentions, that they would discharge their +arrows at us. This was a decided kind of conduct which I did not +expect; at the same time I readily complied with their proposition, and +after some time had passed in hearing and answering their questions, +they consented to our landing, though not without betraying very evident +symptoms of fear and distrust. They, however, laid aside their weapons, +and when I stepped forward and took each of them by the hand, one of +them, but with a very tremulous action, drew his knife from his sleeve, +and presented it to me as a mark of his submission to my will and +pleasure. On our first hearing the noise of these people in the woods, +we displayed our flag, which was now shewn to them as a token of +friendship. They examined us, and every thing about us, with a minute +and suspicious attention. They had heard, indeed, of white men, but +this was the first time that they had ever seen a human being of a +complexion different from their own. The party had been here but a few +hours; nor had they yet erected their sheds; and, except the two men now +with us, they had all fled, leaving their little <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p90"></A>90}</SPAN>property behind them. +To those which had given us such a proof of their confidence, we paid +the most conciliating attentions in our power. One of them I sent to +recall his people, and the other, for very obvious reasons, we kept with +us. In the mean time the canoe was unloaded, the necessary baggage +carried up the hill, and the tents pitched.</p> + +<p>Here I determined to remain till the Indians became so familiarized to +us, as to give all the intelligence which we imagined might be obtained +from them. In fact, it had been my intention to land where I might most +probably discover the carrying-place, which was our more immediate +object, and undertake marches of two or three days, in different +directions, in search of another river. If unsuccessful in this +attempt, it was my purpose to continue my progress up the present river, +as far as it was navigable, and if we did not meet with natives to +instruct us in our further progress, I had determined to return to the +fork, and take the other branch, with the hope of better fortune.</p> + +<p>It was about three in the afternoon when we landed, and at five the +whole party of Indians were assembled. It consisted only of three men, +three women, and seven or eight boys and girls. With their scratched +legs, bleeding feet, and dishevelled hair, as in the hurry of their +flight they had left their shoes <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p91"></A>91}</SPAN>and leggins behind them, they displayed +a most wretched appearance: they were consoled, however, with beads, and +other trifles, which seemed to please them; they had pemmican also given +them to eat, which was not unwelcome, and in our opinion, at least, +superior to their own provision, which consisted entirely of dried fish.</p> + +<p>When I thought that they were sufficiently composed, I sent for the men +to my tent, to gain such information respecting the country as I +concluded it was in their power to afford me. But my expectations were +by no means satisfied: they said that they were not acquainted with any +river to the Westward, but that there was one from whence they were just +arrived, over a carrying-place of eleven days march, which they +represented as being a branch only of the river before us. Their +iron-work they obtained from the people who inhabit the bank of that +river, and an adjacent lake, in exchange for beaver skins, and dressed +moose skins. They represented the latter as travelling, during a moon, +to get to the country of other tribes, who live in houses, with whom +they traffic for the same commodities; and that these also extend their +journies in the same manner to the sea coast, or, to use their +expression, the Stinking Lake, where they trade with people like us, +that come there in vessels as big as islands. They <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p92"></A>92}</SPAN>added, that the +people to the Westward, as they have been told, are very numerous. +Those who inhabit the other branch they stated as consisting of about +forty families, while they themselves did not amount to more than a +fourth of that number; and were almost continually compelled to remain +in their strong holds, where they sometimes perished with cold and +hunger, to secure themselves from their enemies, who never failed to +attack them whenever an opportunity presented itself.</p> + +<p>This account of the country, from a people who I had every reason to +suppose were well acquainted with every part of it, threatened to +disconcert the project on which my heart was set, and in which my whole +mind was occupied. It occurred to me, however, that from fear, or other +motives, they might be tardy in their communication; I therefore assured +them that, if they would direct me to the river which I described to +them, I would come in large vessels, like those that their neighbours +had described, to the mouth of it, and bring them arms and ammunition in +exchange for the produce of their country; so that they might be able to +defend themselves against their enemies, and no longer remain in that +abject, distressed, and fugitive state in which they then lived. I +added also, that in the mean time, if they would, on my <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p93"></A>93}</SPAN>return accompany +me below the mountains, to a country which was very abundant in animals, +I would furnish them, and their companions, with every thing they might +want; and make peace between them and the Beaver Indians. But all these +promises did not appear to advance the object of my inquiries, and they +still persisted in their ignorance of any such river as I had mentioned, +that discharged itself into the sea.</p> + +<p>In this state of perplexity and disappointment, various projects +presented themselves to my mind, which were no sooner formed than they +were discovered to be impracticable, and were consequently abandoned. +At one time I thought of leaving the canoe, and every thing it +contained, to go over land, and pursue that chain of connexion by which +these people obtain their iron-work; but a very brief course of +reflection convinced me that it would be impossible for us to carry +provisions for our support through any considerable part of such a +journey, as well as presents, to secure us a kind reception among the +natives, and ammunition for the service of the hunters, and to defend +ourselves against any act of hostility. At another time my solicitude +for the success of the expedition incited a wish to remain with the +natives, and go to the sea by the way they had described; but the +accomplishment of such a journey, even if no <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p94"></A>94}</SPAN>accident should interpose, +would have required a portion of time which it was not in my power to +bestow. In my present state of information, to proceed further up the +river was considered as a fruitless waste of toilsome exertion; and to +return unsuccessful, after all our labour, sufferings, and dangers, was +an idea too painful to indulge. Besides, I could not yet abandon the +hope that the Indians might not yet be sufficiently composed and +confident, to disclose their real knowledge of the country freely and +fully to me. Nor was I altogether without my doubts respecting the +fidelity of my interpreter, who being very much tired of the voyage, +might be induced to withhold those communications which would induce me +to continue it. I therefore continued my attentions to the natives, +regaled them with such provisions as I had, indulged their children with +a taste of sugar, and determined to suspend my conversation with them +till the following morning. On my expressing a desire to partake of +their fish, they brought me a few dried trout, well cured, that had been +taken in the river which they lately left. One of the men also brought +me five beaver skins, as a present.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 10.</i>—The solicitude that possessed my mind interrupted my +repose; when the dawn appeared I had already quitted my bed, and was +waiting with impatience for another <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p95"></A>95}</SPAN>conference with the natives. The +sun, however, had risen before they left their leafy bowers, whither +they had retired with their children, having most hospitably resigned +their beds, and the partners of them, to the solicitations of my young +men.</p> + +<p>I now repeated my inquiries, but my perplexity was not removed by any +favourable variation in their answers. About nine, however, one of +them, still remaining at my fire, in conversation with the interpreters, +I understood enough of his language to know that he mentioned something +about a great river, at the same time pointing significantly up that +which was before us. On my inquiring of the interpreter respecting that +expression, I was informed that he knew of a large river, that runs +towards the mid-day sun, a branch of which flowed near the source of +that which we were now navigating; and that there were only three small +lakes, and as many carrying-places, leading to a small river, which +discharges itself into the great river, but that the latter did not +empty itself into the sea. The inhabitants, he said, built houses, +lived on islands, and were a numerous and warlike people. I desired him +to describe the road to the other river, by delineating it with a piece +of coal, on a strip of bark, which he accomplished to my satisfaction. +The opinion that the river did not discharge itself into the sea, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p96"></A>96}</SPAN>I very +confidently imputed to his ignorance of the country.</p> + +<p>My hopes were now renewed, and an object presented itself which awakened +my utmost impatience. To facilitate its attainment, one of the Indians +was induced, by presents, to accompany me as a guide to the first +inhabitants, which we might expect to meet on the small lakes in our +way. I accordingly resolved to depart with all expedition, and while my +people were making every necessary preparation, I employed myself in +writing the following description of the natives around me:</p> + +<p>They are low in stature, not exceeding five feet six or seven inches; +and they are of that meagre appearance which might be expected in a +people whose life is one secession of difficulties, in procuring +subsistence. Their faces are round, with high cheek bones; and their +eyes, which are small, are of a dark brown colour; the cartilage of +their nose is perforated, but without any ornaments suspended from it; +their hair is of a dingy black, hanging loose and in disorder over their +shoulders, but irregularly cut in the front, so as not to obstruct the +sight; their beards are eradicated, with the exception of a few +straggling hairs, and their complexion is a swarthy yellow.</p> + +<p>Their dress consists of robes made of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p97"></A>97}</SPAN>skins of the heaver, the +ground-hog and the reindeer, dressed in the hair, and of the moose-skin +without it. All of them are ornamented with a fringe, while some of +them have tassels hanging down the seams; those of the ground-hog are +decorated on the fur side with the tails of the animal, which they do +not separate from them. Their garments they tie over the shoulders, and +fasten them round the middle with a belt of green skin, which is as +stiff as horn. Their leggins are long, and, if they were topped with a +waistband, might be called trowsers: they, as well as their shoes, are +made of dressed moose, elk, or rein-deer skin. The organs of generation +they leave uncovered.</p> + +<p>The women differ little in their dress, from the men, except in the +addition of an apron, which is fastened round the waist, and hangs down +to the knees. They are in general of a more lusty make than the other +sex, and taller in proportion, but infinitely their inferiors in +cleanliness. A black artificial stripe crosses the face beneath the +eye, from ear to ear, which I first took for scabs, from the +accumulation of dirt on it. Their hair, which is longer than that of +the men, is divided from the forehead to the crown, and drawn back in +long plaits behind the ears. They have also a few white beads, which +they get where they procure their iron: they are <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p98"></A>98}</SPAN>from a line to an inch +in length, and are worn in their ears, but are not of European +manufacture. These, with bracelets made of horn and bone, compose all +the ornaments which decorate their persons. Necklaces of the grisly or +white bear's claws, are worn exclusively by the men.</p> + +<p>Their arms consist of bows made of cedar, six feet in length, with a +short iron spike at one end, and serve occasionally as a spear. Their +arrows are well made, barbed, and pointed with iron, flint, stone, or +bone; they are feathered, and from two or two feet and a half in length. +They have two kinds of spears, but both are double edged, and of well +polished iron; one of them is about twelve inches long, and two wide; +the other about half the width, and two thirds of the length; the shafts +of the first are eight feet in length, and the latter six. They have +also spears made of bone. Their knives consist of pieces of iron, +shaped and handled by themselves. Their axes are something like our +adze, and they use them in the same manner as we employ that instrument. +They were, indeed, furnished with iron in a manner that I could not have +supposed, and plainly proved to me that their communication with those, +who communicate with the inhabitants of the sea coast, cannot be very +difficult, and from their ample provision of iron weapons, the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p99"></A>99}</SPAN>means of +procuring it must be of a more distant origin than I had at first +conjectured.</p> + +<p>They have snares made of green skin, which they cut to the size of +sturgeon twine, and twist a certain number of them together; and though +when completed they do not exceed the thickness of a cod-line, their +strength is sufficient to hold a moose-deer; they are from one and a +half to two fathoms in length. Their nets and fishing-lines are made of +willow-bark and nettles; those made of the latter are finer and smoother +than if made with hempen thread. Their hooks are small bones, fixed in +pieces of wood split for that purpose, and tied round with fine watape, +which has been particularly described in the former voyage. Their +kettles are also made of watape, which is so closely woven that they +never leak, and they heat water in them, by putting red-hot stones into +it. There is one kind of them, made of spruce-bark, which they hang +over the fire, but at such a distance as to receive the heat without +being within reach of the blaze; a very tedious operation. They have +various dishes of wood and bark; spoons of horn and wood, and buckets; +bags of leather and net-work, and baskets of bark, some of which hold +their fishing-tackle, while others are contrived to be carried on the +back. They have a brown kind of earth in great abundance, with which +they rub their clothes, not <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p100"></A>100}</SPAN>only for ornament but utility, as it +prevents the leather from becoming hard after it has been wetted. They +have spruce bark in great plenty, with which they make their canoes, an +operation that does not require any great portion of skill or ingenuity, +and is managed in the following manner.—The bark is taken off the +tree the whole length of the intended canoe, which is commonly about +eighteen feet, and is sewed with watape at both ends; two laths are then +laid, and fixed along the edge of the bark which forms the gunwale; in +these are fixed the bars, and against them bear the ribs or timbers, +that are out to the length to which the bark can be stretched; and, to +give additional strength, strips of wood are laid between them: to make +the whole water-tight, gum is abundantly employed. These vessels carry +from two to five people. Canoes of a similar construction were used by +the Beaver Indians within these few years, but they now very generally +employ those made of the bark of the birch tree, which are by far more +durable. Their paddles are about six feet long, and about one foot is +occupied by the blade, which is in the shape of an heart.</p> + +<p>Previous to our departure, the natives had caught a couple of trout, of +about six pounds weight, which they brought me, and I paid them with +beads. They likewise gave me a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p101"></A>101}</SPAN>net, made of nettles, the skin of a +moose-deer, dressed, and a white horn in the shape of a spoon which +resembles the horn of the buffalo of the Copper-Mine-River; but their +description of the animal to which it belongs does not answer to that. +My young men also got two quivers of excellent arrows, a collar of white +bear's claws, of a great length, horn bracelets, and other articles, for +which they received an ample remuneration.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c4-hr1" href="#v2-c4-hl1">[1]</a> We had been obliged to indulge our hunters with sitting idle in the +canoe, lest their being compelled to share in the labour of navigating +it should disgust and drive them from us. We, therefore, employed them +as much as possible on shore, as well to procure provisions, as to +lighten the canoe.</p> + + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p102"></A>102}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter5" href="#toc_chapter5"> CHAPTER V.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JUNE, 1793.</p> + +<p> <i>Monday, 10.</i>—At ten we were ready to embark. I then took leave of +the Indians, but encouraged them to expect us in two moons, and +expressed an hope that I should find them on the road with any of their +relations whom they might meet. I also returned the beaver skins to the +man who had presented them to me, desiring him to take care of them till +I came back, when I would purchase them of him. Our guide expressed +much less concern about the undertaking in which he had engaged, than +his companions, who appeared to be affected with great solicitude for +his safety.</p> + +<p>We now pushed off the canoe from the bank, and proceeded East half a +mile, when a river flowed in from the left, about half as large as that +which we were navigating. We continued the same course three quarters +of a mile, when we missed two of our fowling pieces, which had been +forgotten, and I sent their owners back for them, who were absent on +this errand upwards of an hour. We now proceeded North-East by East +half a mile, North-East by North three quarters of a mile, when the +current slackened; there was a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p103"></A>103}</SPAN>verdant spot on the left, where, from the +remains of some Indian timber-work, it appeared, that the natives have +frequently encamped. Our next course was East one mile, and we saw a +ridge of mountains covered with snow to the South-East. The land on our +right was low and marshy for three or four miles, when it rose into a +range of heights that extended to the mountains. We proceeded +East-South-East a mile and a half, South-East by East one mile, East by +South three quarters of a mile, South-East by East one mile, East by +South half a mile, North-East by East one mile, South-East half a mile, +East-North-East a mile and a quarter, South-South-East half a mile, +North-North-East a mile and a half: here a river flowed in from the +left, which was about one-fourth part as large as that which received +its tributary waters. We then continued East by South half a mile, to +the foot of the mountain on the South of the above river. The course +now veered short, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, East by +South a quarter of a mile, South half a mile, South-East by South half a +mile, South-West a quarter of a mile, East by South a quarter of a mile, +veered to West-North-West a quarter of a mile, South-West one eighth of +a mile, East-South-East one quarter of a mile, East one sixth of a mile, +South-South-West one twelfth <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p104"></A>104}</SPAN>of a mile, East-South-East one eighth of a +mile, North-East by East one third of a mile, East by North one twelfth +of a mile, North-East by East one third of a mile, East one sixteenth of +a mile, South-East one twelfth of a mile, North-East by East one twelfth +of a mile, East one eighth of a mile, and East-South-East half a mile, +when we landed at seven o'clock and encamped. During the greatest part +of the distance we came to-day, the river runs close under the mountains +on the left.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 11.</i>—[<a name="tref1" +href="#tnote1">Transcriber's Note 1</a>] The morning was clear and cold. +On my interpreter's encouraging the guide to dispel all apprehension, to +maintain his fidelity to me, and not to desert in the night, "How is it +possible for me," he replied, "to leave the lodge of the Great +Spirit!—When he tells me that he has no further occasion for me, I +will then return to my children." As we proceeded, however, he soon +lost, and with good reason, his exalted notions of me.</p> + + +<p>At four we continued our voyage, steering East by South a mile and a +half, East-South-East half a mile. A river appeared on the left, at the +foot of a mountain which, from its conical form, my young Indian called +the Beaver Lodge Mountain. Having proceeded South-South-East half a +mile, another river appeared from the right. We now came in a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p105"></A>105}</SPAN>line with +the beginning of the mountains we saw yesterday: others of the same kind +ran parallel with them on the left side of the river, which was reduced +to the breadth of fifteen yards, and with a moderate current.</p> + +<p>We now steered East-North-East one eighth of a mile, South-East by South +one eighth of a mile, East-South-East one sixth of a mile, South-West +one eighth of a mile, East-South-East one eighth of a mile, +South-South-East one sixth of a mile, North-East by East one twelfth of +a mile, East-South-East half a mile, South-West by West one third of a +mile, South-South-East one eighth of a mile, South-South-West one +quarter of a mile, North-East one sixth of a mile, South by West one +fourth of a mile, East three quarters of a mile, and North-East one +quarter of a mile. Here the mountain on the left appeared to be +composed of a succession of round hills, covered with wood almost to +their summits, which were white with snow, and crowned with withered +trees. We now steered East, in a line with the high lands on the right +five miles; North one twelfth of a mile, North-East by North one eighth +of a mile, South by East one sixteenth of a mile, North-East by North +one fourth of a mile, where another river fell in from the right; +North-East by East one sixth of a mile, East two miles and a half, South +one twelfth of a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p106"></A>106}</SPAN>mile, North-East half a mile, South-East one third of a +mile, East one mile and a quarter, South-South-West one sixteenth of a +mile, North-East by East half a mile, East one mile and three quarters, +South and South-West by West half a mile, North-East half a mile, South +one third of a mile, North-East by North one sixth of a mile, East by +South one fourth of a mile, South one eighth of a mile, South-East three +quarters of a mile. The canoe had taken in so much water, that it was +necessary for us to land here, in order to stop the leakage, which +occasioned the delay of an hour and a quarter, North-East a quarter of a +mile, East-North-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by South a +sixteenth of a mile, East by South a twelfth of a mile, North-East one +sixth of a mile, East-South-East one sixteenth of a mile, South-West +half a mile, North-East a quarter of a mile, East by South half a mile, +South-South-East one twelfth of a mile, East half a mile, North-East by +North a quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a mile, +North-East by North one twelfth of a mile, where a small river flowed in +from the left, South-East by East one twelfth of a mile, South by East a +quarter of a mile, South-East one eighth of a mile, East one twelfth of +a mile, North-East by North a quarter of a mile, South half a mile, +South-East by South one eighth of a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p107"></A>107}</SPAN>mile, North-East one fourth of a +mile, South-East by East, and South-East by South one third of a mile, +East-South-East, and North-North-East one third of a mile, and South by +West, East and East-North-East one eighth of a mile.</p> + +<p>Here we quitted the main branch, which, according to the information of +our guide, terminates at a short distance, where it is supplied by the +snow which covers the mountains. In the same direction is a valley +which appears to be of very great depth, and is full of snow, that rises +nearly to the height of the land, and forms a reservoir of itself +sufficient to furnish a river, whenever there is a moderate degree of +heat. The branch which we left was not, at this time, more than ten +yards broad, while that which we entered was still less. Here the +current was very trifling, and the channel so meandering, that we +sometimes found it difficult to work the canoe forward. The straight +course from this to the entrance of a small lake or pond, is about East +one mile. This entrance by the river into the lake was almost choked up +by a quantity of drift-wood, which appeared to me to be an extraordinary +circumstance: but I afterwards found that it falls down from the +mountains. The water, however, was so high, that the country was +entirely overflowed, and we passed with the canoe among the branches <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p108"></A>108}</SPAN>of +trees. The principal wood along the banks is spruce, intermixed with a +few white birch, growing on detached spots, the intervening spaces being +covered with willow and elder. We advanced about a mile in the lake, +and took up our station for the night at an old Indian encampment. Here +we expected to meet with natives, but were disappointed; but our guide +encouraged us with the hope of seeing some on the morrow. We saw beaver +in the course of the afternoon, but did not discharge our pieces from +the fear of alarming the inhabitants; there were also swans in great +numbers, with geese and ducks, which we did not disturb for the same +reason. We observed also the tracks of moose-deer that had crossed the +river; and wild parsnips grew here in abundance, which have been already +mentioned as a grateful vegetable. Of birds, we saw bluejays, yellow +birds, and one beautiful humming-bird; of the first and last, I had not +seen any since I had been in the North-West.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 12.</i>—[<A name="tref2" +href="#tnote2">Transcriber's Note 2</a>] The weather was the same as +yesterday, and we proceeded between three and four in the morning. We +took up the net which we had set the preceding evening, when it +contained a trout, one white fish, one carp, and three jub. The lake is +about two miles in length, East by South, and from three to five hundred +yards wide. This I consider as +the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p109"></A>109}</SPAN>highest and +Southernmost source of the Unjigah, or Peace River, latitude, +54. 24. North, longitude 121. West from Greenwich, which, after a +winding course through a vast extent of country, receiving many large +rivers in its progress, and passing through the Slave Lake, empties +itself into the Frozen Ocean, in 70. North latitude, and about 135. West +longitude.</p> + + +<p>We landed and unloaded, where we found a beaten path leading over a low +ridge of land eight hundred and seventeen paces in length, to another +small lake. The distance between the two mountains at this place is +about a quarter of a mile, rocky precipices presenting themselves on +both sides. A few large spruce trees and liards were scattered over the +carrying-place. There were also willows along the side of the water, +with plenty of grass and weeds. The natives had left their old canoes +here, with baskets hanging on the trees, which contained various +articles. From the latter I took a net, some hooks, a goat's-horn, and +a kind of wooden trap, in which, as our guide informed me, the +ground-hog is taken. I left, however, in exchange, a knife, some +fire-steels, beads, awls, &c. Here two streams tumble down the rocks +from the right, and lose themselves in the lake which we had left; while +two others fall from the opposite heights, and glide into the lake <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p110"></A>110}</SPAN>which +we were approaching; this being the highest point of land dividing these +waters, and we are now going with the stream. This lake runs in the +same course as the last, but is rather narrower, and not more than half +the length. We were obliged to clear away some floating drift-wood to +get to the carrying-place, over which is a beaten path of only an +hundred and seventy-five paces long. The lake empties itself by a small +river, which, if the channel were not interrupted by large trees that +had fallen across it, would have admitted of our canoe with all its +lading: the impediment, in deed, might have been removed by two axe-men +in a few hours. On the edge of the water, we observed a large quantity +of thick yellow, scum or froth, of an acrid taste and smell.</p> + +<p>We embarked on this lake, which is in the same course, and about the +same size as that which we had just left, and from whence we passed into +a small river, that was so full of fallen wood, as to employ some time, +and require some exertion, to force a passage. At the entrance, it +afforded no more water than was just sufficient to bear the canoe; but +it was soon increased by many small streams which came in broken rills +down the rugged sides of the mountains, and were furnished, as I +suppose, by the melting of the snow. These accessory streamlets had all +the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p111"></A>111}</SPAN>coldness of ice. Our course continued to be obstructed by banks of +gravel, as well as trees which had fallen across the river. We were +obliged to force our way through the one, and to cut through the other, +at a great expense of time and trouble. In many places the current was +also very rapid and meandering. At four in the afternoon, we stopped to +unload and carry, and at five we entered a small round lake of about one +third of a mile in diameter. From the last lake to this is, I think, in +a straight line, East by South six miles, though it is twice that +distance by the winding of the river. We again entered the river, which +soon ran with great rapidity, and rushed impetuously over a bed of flat +stones. At half past six we were stopped by two large trees that lay +across the river, and it was with great difficulty that the canoe was +prevented from driving against them. Here we unloaded and formed our +encampment.</p> + +<p>The weather was cloudy and raw, and as the circumstances of this day's +voyage had compelled us to be frequently in the water, which was cold as +ice, we were almost in a benumbed state. Some of the people who had +gone ashore to lighten the canoe, experienced great difficulty in +reaching us, from the rugged state of the country; it was, indeed, +almost dark when they arrived. We had no sooner landed than I sent two +men down the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p112"></A>112}</SPAN>river to bring me some account of its circumstances, that I +might form a judgment of the difficulties which might await us on the +morrow; and they brought back a fearful detail of rapid currents, fallen +trees, and large stones. At this place our guide manifested evident +symptoms of discontent: he had been very much alarmed in going down some +of the rapids with us, and expressed an anxiety to return. He shewed us +a mountain, at no great distance, which he represented as being on the +other side of a river, into which this empties itself.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 13.</i>—At an early hour of this morning the men began to cut +a road, in order to carry the canoe and lading beyond the rapid; and by +seven they were ready. That business was soon effected, and the canoe +reladen, to proceed with the current which ran with great rapidity. In +order to lighten her, it was my intention to walk with some of the +people; but those in the boat with great earnestness requested me to +embark, declaring, at the same time, that, if they perished, I should +perish with them. I did not then imagine in how short a period their +apprehension would be justified. We accordingly pushed off, and had +proceeded but a very short way when the canoe struck, and +notwithstanding all our exertions, the violence of the current was so +great as to drive <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p113"></A>113}</SPAN>her sideways down the river, and break her by the +first bar, when I instantly jumped into the water, and the men followed +my example; but before we could set her straight, or stop her, we came +to deeper water, so that we were obliged to re-embark with the utmost +precipitation. One of the men who was not sufficiently active, was left +to get on shore in the best manner in his power. We had hardly regained +our situations when we drove against a rock which shattered the stern of +the canoe in such a manner, that it held only by the gunwales, so that +the steersman could no longer keep his place. The violence of this +stroke drove us to the opposite side of the river, which is but narrow, +when the bow met with the same fate as the stern. At this moment the +foreman seized on some branches of a small tree in the hope of bringing +up the canoe, but such was their elasticity that, in a manner not easily +described, he was jerked on shore in an instant, and with a degree of +violence that threatened his destruction. But we had no time to turn +from our own situation to enquire what had befallen him; for, in a few +moments, we came across a cascade which broke several large holes in the +bottom of the canoe, and started all the bars, except one behind the +scooping seat. If this accident, however, had not happened, the vessel +must have been irretrievably overset. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p114"></A>114}</SPAN>The wreck becoming flat on the +water, we all jumped out, while the steersman, who had been compelled to +abandon his place, and had not recovered from his fright, called out to +his companions to save themselves. My peremptory commands superseded +the effects of his fear, and they all held fast to the wreck; to which +fortunate resolution we owed our safety, as we should otherwise have +been dashed against the rocks by the force of the water, or driven over +the cascades. In this condition we were forced several hundred yards, +and every yard on the verge of destruction; but, at length, we most +fortunately arrived in shallow water and a small eddy, where we were +enabled to make a stand, from the weight of the canoe resting on the +stones, rather than from any exertions of our exhausted strength. For +though our efforts were short, they were pushed to the utmost, as life +or death depended on them.</p> + +<p>This alarming scene, with all its terrors and dangers, occupied only a +few minutes; and in the present suspension of it, we called to the +people on shore to come to our assistance, and they immediately obeyed +the summons. The foreman, however, was the first with us; he had +escaped unhurt from the extraordinary jerk with which he was thrown out +of the boat, and just as we were beginning to take our effects out of +the water, he <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p115"></A>115}</SPAN>appeared to give his assistance. The Indians, when they +saw our deplorable situation, instead of making the least effort to help +us, sat down and gave vent to their tears. I was on the outside of the +canoe, where I remained till every thing was got on shore, in a state of +great pain from the extreme cold of the water; so that at length, it was +with difficulty I could stand, from the benumbed state of my limbs.</p> + +<p>The loss was considerable and important, for it consisted of our whole +stock of balls, and some of our furniture; but these considerations were +forgotten in the impressions of our miraculous escape. Our first +inquiry was after the absent man, whom in the first moment of danger, we +had left to get on shore, and in a short time his appearance removed our +anxiety. We had, however, sustained no personal injury of consequence, +and my bruises seemed to be in the greater proportion.</p> + +<p>All the different articles were now spread out to dry. The powder had +fortunately received no damage, and all my instruments had escaped. +Indeed, when my people began to recover from their alarm, and to enjoy a +sense of safety, some of them, if not all, were by no means sorry for +our late misfortune, from the hope that it must put a period to our +voyage, particularly as we were without <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p116"></A>116}</SPAN>a canoe, and all the bullets +sunk in the river. It did not, indeed, seem possible to them that we +could proceed under these circumstances. I listened, however, to the +observations that were made on the occasion without replying to them, +till their panic was dispelled, and they had got themselves warm and +comfortable, with an hearty meal, and rum enough to raise their spirits.</p> + +<p>I then addressed them, by recommending them all to be thankful for their +late very narrow escape. I also stated, that the navigation was not +impracticable in itself, but from our ignorance of its course; and that +our late experience would enable us to pursue our voyage with greater +security. I brought to their recollection, that I did not deceive them, +and that they were made acquainted with the difficulties and dangers +they must expect to encounter, before they engaged to accompany me. I +also urged the honour of conquering disasters, and the disgrace that +would attend them on their return home, without having attained the +object of the expedition. Nor did I fail to mention the courage and +resolution which was the peculiar boast of the North men; and that I +depended on them, at that moment, for the maintenance of their +character. I quieted their apprehension as to the loss of the bullets, +by bringing to their recollection that we still had shot from which they +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p117"></A>117}</SPAN>might be manufactured. I at the same time acknowledged the difficulty +of restoring the wreck of the canoe, but confided in our skill and +exertion to put it in such a state as would carry us on to where we +might procure bark, and build a new one. In short, my harangue produced +the desired effect, and a very general assent appeared to go wherever I +should lead the way.</p> + +<p>Various opinions were offered in the present posture of affairs, and it +was rather a general wish that the wreck should be abandoned, and all +the lading carried to the river, which our guide informed us was at no +great distance, and in the vicinity of woods where he believed there was +plenty of bark. This project seemed not to promise that certainty to +which I looked in my present operations; besides, I had my doubts +respecting the views of my guide, and consequently could not confide in +the representation he made to me. I therefore dispatched two of the men +at nine in the morning, with one of the young Indians, for I did not +venture to trust the guide out of my sight, in search of bark, and to +endeavor, if it were possible, in the course of the day, to penetrate to +the great river, into which that before us discharges itself in the +direction which the guide had communicated. I now joined my people in +order to repair, as well as circumstances would admit, our wreck <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p118"></A>118}</SPAN>of a +canoe, and I began to set them the example.</p> + +<p>At noon I had an altitude, which gave 54. 23. North latitude. At four +in the afternoon I took time, with the hope that in the night I might +obtain an observation of Jupiter, and his satellites, but I had not a +sufficient horizon, from the propinquity of the mountains. The result +of my calculation for the time was 1. 32. 28. slow apparent time.</p> + +<p>It now grew late, and the people who had been sent on the excursion +already mentioned, were, not yet returned; about ten o'clock, however, I +heard a man halloo, and I very gladly returned the signal. In a short +time our young Indian arrived with a small roll of indifferent bark: he +was oppressed with fatigue and hunger, and his clothes torn to rags: he +had parted with the other two men at sunset, who had walked the whole +day, in a dreadful country, without procuring any good bark, or being +able to get to the large river. His account of the river, on whose +banks we were, could not be more unfavourable or discouraging; it had +appeared to him to be little more than a succession of falls and rapids, +with occasional interruptions of fallen trees.</p> + +<p>Our guide became so dissatisfied and troubled in mind, that we could not +obtain from him any regular account of the country before us. All we +could collect from him was, that <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p119"></A>119}</SPAN>the river into which this empties +itself, is but a branch of a large river, the great fork being at no +great distance from the confluence of this; and that he knew of no lake, +or large body of still water, in the vicinity of these rivers. To this +account of the country, he added some strange, fanciful, but terrifying +descriptions of the natives, similar to those which were mentioned in +the former voyage.</p> + +<p>We had an escape this day, which I must add to the many instances of +good fortune which I experienced in this perilous expedition. The +powder had been spread out, to the amount of eighty pounds weight, to +receive the air; and, in this situation, one of the men carelessly and +composedly walked across it with a lighted pipe in his mouth, but +without any ill consequence resulting from such an act of criminal +negligence. I need not add that one spark might have put a period to +all my anxiety and ambition.</p> + +<p>I observed several trees and plants on the banks of this river, which I +had not seen to the North of the latitude 52. such as the cedar, maple, +hemlock, &c. At this time the water rose fast, and passed on with the +rapidity of an arrow shot from a bow.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday 14.</i>—The weather was fine, clear, and warm, and at an early +hour of the morning we resumed our repair of the canoe. At half past +seven our two men returned hungry <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p120"></A>120}</SPAN>and cold, not having tasted food, or +enjoyed the least repose for twenty-four hours, with their clothes torn +into tatters, and their skin lacerated, in passing through the woods. +Their account was the same as that brought by the Indian, with this +exception, that they had reason to think they saw the river, or branch +which our guide had mentioned: but they were of opinion that from the +frequent obstructions in this river, we should have to carry the whole +way to it, through a dreadful country, where much time and labour would +be required to open a passage through it.</p> + +<p>Discouraging as these accounts were, they did not, however, interrupt +for a moment the task in which we were engaged, of repairing the canoe; +and this work we contrived to complete by the conclusion of the day. +The bark which was brought by the Indian, with some pieces of oil-cloth, +and plenty of gum, enabled us to put our shattered vessel in a condition +to answer our present purposes. The guide, who has been mentioned as +manifesting continual signs of dissatisfaction, now assumed an air of +contentment, which I attributed to a smoke that was visible in the +direction of the river; as he naturally expected, if we should fall in +with any natives, which was now very probable, from such a circumstance, +that he should be released from a service which he had found so irksome +and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p121"></A>121}</SPAN>full of danger. I had an observation at noon, which made our +latitude 54. 23. 48. North. I also took time, and found it slow +apparent time 1. 38. 44.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 15.</i>—The weather continued the same as the preceding day, +and according to the directions which I had previously given, my people +began at a very early hour to open a road, through which we might carry +a part of our lading; as I was fearful of risking the whole of it in the +canoe, in its present weak state, and in a part of the river which is +full of shoals and rapids. Four men were employed to conduct her, +lightened as she was of twelve packages. They passed several dangerous +places, and met with various obstructions, the current of the river +being frequently stopped by rafts of drift wood, and fallen trees, so +that after fourteen hours hard labour we had not made more than three +miles. Our course was South-East by East, and as we had not met with +any accident, the men appeared to feel a renewed courage to continue +their voyage. In the morning, however, one of the crew, whose name was +Beauchamp, peremptorily refused to embark in the canoe. This being the +first example of absolute disobedience which had yet appeared during the +course of our expedition, I should not have passed it over without +taking some very severe means to prevent a repetition of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p122"></A>122}</SPAN>it; but as he +had the general character of a simple fellow, among his companions, and +had been frightened out of what little sense he possessed, by our late +dangers, I rather preferred to consider him as unworthy of accompanying +us, and to represent him as an object of ridicule and contempt for his +pusillanimous behaviour; though, in fact, he was a very useful, active, +and laborious man.</p> + +<p>At the close of the day we assembled round a blazing fire; and the whole +party, being enlivened with the usual beverage which I supplied on these +occasions, forgot their fatigues and apprehensions; nor did they fail to +anticipate the pleasure they should enjoy in getting clear of their +present difficulties, and gliding onwards with a strong and steady +stream, which our guide had described as the characteristic of the large +river we soon expected to enter.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 16.</i>—The fine weather continued, and we began our work, as +we had done the preceding day; some were occupied in opening a road, +others were carrying, and the rest employed in conducting the canoe. I +was of the first party, and soon discovered that we had encamped about +half a mile above several falls, over which we could not attempt to run +the canoe, lightened even as she was. This circumstance rendered it +necessary that the road should be made sufficiently wide to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p123"></A>123}</SPAN>admit the +canoe to pass; a tedious and toilsome work. In running her down a rapid +above the falls, a hole was broken in her bottom, which occasioned a +considerable delay, as we were destitute of the materials necessary for +her effectual reparation. On my being informed of this misfortune, I +returned, and ordered Mr. Mackay, with two Indians, to quit their +occupation in making the road, and endeavour to penetrate to the great +river, according to the direction which the guide had communicated, +without paying any attention to the course of the river before us.</p> + +<p>When the people had repaired the canoe in the best manner they were +able, we conducted her to the head of the falls; she was then unloaded +and taken out of the water, when we carried her for a considerable +distance through a low, swampy country. I appointed four men to this +laborious office, which they executed at the peril of their lives, for +the canoe was now become so heavy, from the additional quantity of bark +and gum necessary to patch her up, that two men could not carry her more +than an hundred yards, without being relieved; and as their way lay +through deep mud, which was rendered more difficult by the roots and +prostrate trunks of trees, they were every moment in danger of falling; +and beneath such a weight, one false step might have been attended with +fatal consequences. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p124"></A>124}</SPAN>The other two men and myself followed as fast as we +could, with the lading. Thus did we toil till seven o'clock in the +evening, to get to the termination of the road that had been made in the +morning. Here Mr. Mackay and the Indian joined us, after having been at +the river, which they represented as rather large. They had also +observed, that the lower part of the river before us was so full of +fallen wood, that the attempt to clear a passage through it, would be an +unavailing labour. The country through which they had passed was +morass, and almost impenetrable wood. In passing over one of the +embarras, our dog, which was following them, fell in, and it was with +very great difficulty that he was saved, as the current had carried him +under the drift. They brought with them two geese, which had been shot +in the course of their expedition. To add to our perplexities and +embarrassments, we were persecuted by mosquitoes and sand-flies, through +the whole of the day.</p> + +<p>The extent of our journey was not more than two miles South-East; and so +much fatigue and pain had been suffered in the course of it, that my +people, as might be expected, looked forward to a continuance of it with +discouragement and dismay. I was, indeed, informed that murmurs +prevailed among them, of which, however, I took no notice. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p125"></A>125}</SPAN> +When we were assembled together for the night, I gave each of them a +dram, and in a short time they retired to the repose which they so much +required. We could discover the termination of the mountains at a +considerable distance on either side of us, which, according to my +conjecture, marked the course of the great river. On the mountains to +the East there were several fires, as their smokes were very visible to +us. Excessive heat prevailed throughout the day.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 17.</i>—Having sat up till twelve last night, which had been my +constant practice since we had taken our present guide, I awoke +Mr. Mackay to watch him in turn. I then laid down to rest, and at three +I was awakened to be informed that he had deserted. Mr. Mackay, with +whom I was displeased on this occasion, and the Cancre, accompanied by +the dog, went in search of him, but he had made his escape: a design +which he had for some time meditated, though I had done every thing in +my power to induce him to remain with me.</p> + +<p>This misfortune did not produce any relaxation in our exertions. At an +early hour of the morning we were all employed in cutting a passage of +three quarters of a mile, through which we carried our canoe and cargo, +when we put her into the water with her lading, but in a very short time +were stopped by the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p126"></A>126}</SPAN>drift-wood, and were obliged to land and carry. In +short, we pursued our alternate journeys, by land and water, till noon, +when we could proceed no further, from the various small unnavigable +channels into which the river branched in every direction; and no other +mode of getting forward now remained for us, but by cutting a road +across a neck of land. I accordingly dispatched two men to ascertain +the exact distance, and we employed the interval of their absence in +unloading and getting the canoe out of the water. It was eight in the +evening when we arrived at the bank of the great river. This journey +was three quarters of a mile East-North-East, through a continued swamp, +where, in many places, we waded up to the middle of our thighs. Our +course in the small river was about South-East by East three miles. At +length we enjoyed, after all our toil and anxiety, the inexpressible +satisfaction of finding ourselves on the bank of a navigable river, on +the West side of the first great range of mountains.</p> + + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p127"></A>127}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter6" href="#toc_chapter6"> CHAPTER VI.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JUNE, 1793.</p> + +<p> <i>Tuesday, 18.</i>—It rained throughout the night and till seven in the +morning; nor was I sorry that the weather gave me an excuse for +indulging my people with that additional rest, which their fatigues, +during the last three days, rendered so comfortable to them. Before +eight, however, we were on the water, and driven on by a strong current, +when we steered East-South-East half a mile, South-West by South half a +mile, South-South-East half a mile, South-West half a mile, went round +to North-West half a mile, backed South-South-East three quarters of a +mile, South-South-West half a mile, South by East a quarter of a mile, +and South-West by South three quarters of a mile. Here the water had +fallen considerably, so that several mud and sand-banks were visible. +There was also a hill a-head, West-South-West.</p> + +<p>The weather was so hazy that we could not see across the river, which is +here about two hundred yards wide. We now proceeded South by West one +third of a mile, when we saw a considerable quantity of beaver work +along the banks, North-North-West half a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p128"></A>128}</SPAN>mile, South-West by West one +mile and a half, South-South-West one third of a mile, West by South one +third of a mile, South by East half a mile. Mountains rose on the left, +immediately above the river, whose summits were covered with snow; +South-West half a mile, South a quarter of a mile, South-East one third +of a mile, South-South-West half a mile. Here are several islands; we +then veered to West by South a third of a mile, South-South-East a sixth +of a mile. On the right, the land is high, rocky, and covered with +wood; West-South-West one mile; a small river running in from the +South-East; South-West half a mile, South three quarters of a mile, +South-West half a mile, South by West half a mile. Here a rocky point +protrudes from the left, and narrows the river to a hundred yards; +South-East half a mile, East by South one eighth of a mile. The current +now was very strong, but perfectly safe; South-East by South an eighth +of a mile, West by North one third of a mile, South by West a twelfth of +a mile, South-West one fourth of a mile. Here the high land terminates +on one side of the river, while rocks rise to a considerable height +immediately above the other, and the channel widens to a hundred and +fifty yards, West by South one mile. The river now narrows again +between rocks of a moderate height, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p129"></A>129}</SPAN>North-North-East an eighth of a +mile, veered to South-West an eighth of a mile, South and South-West +half a mile. The country appeared to be low, as far as I could judge of +it from the canoe, as the view is confined by woods at the distance of +about a hundred yards from the banks. Our course continued West by +North two miles, North half a mile, North-West a quarter of a mile, +South-West two miles, North-West three quarters of a mile; when a ridge +of high land appeared in this direction; West one mile. A small river +flowed in from the North; South a quarter of a mile, North-West half a +mile, South-South-West two miles and a half, South-East three quarters +of a mile; a rivulet lost itself in the main stream, West-North-West +half a mile. Here the current slackened, and we proceeded +South-South-West three quarters of a mile, South-West three quarters of +a mile, South by East three quarters of a mile, South-East by East one +mile, when it veered gradually to West-North-West half a mile; the river +being full of islands. We proceeded due North, with little current, the +river presenting a beautiful sheet of water for a mile and a half, +South-West by West one mile, West-North-West one mile, when it veered +round to South-East one mile, West by North one mile, South-East one +mile, West by North three quarters of a mile, South one eighth of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p130"></A>130}</SPAN>a +mile, when we came to an Indian cabin of late erection. Here was the +great fork, of which our guide had informed us, and it appeared to be +the largest branch from the South-East. It is about half a mile in +breadth, and assumes the form of a lake. The current was very slack, +and we got into the middle of the channel, when we steered West, and +sounded in sixteen feet water.</p> + +<p>A ridge of high land now stretched on, as it were, across our present +direction: this course was three miles. We then proceeded +West-South-West two miles, and sounded in twenty-four feet water. Here +the river narrowed and the current increased. We then continued our +course North-North-West three quarters of a mile, a small river falling +in from the North-East. It now veered to South by West one mile and a +quarter, West-South-West four miles and a half, West by North one mile +and a quarter, North-West by West one mile, West a mile and a quarter: +the land was high on both sides, and the river narrowed to an hundred +and fifty, or two hundred yards; North-West three quarters of a mile, +South-West by South two miles and a half: here its breadth again +increased; South by West one mile, West-South-West half a mile, +South-West by South three miles, South-South-East one mile, with a small +river running in from the left, South with a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p131"></A>131}</SPAN>strong current one mile, +then East three quarters of a mile, South-West one mile, +South-South-East a mile and a half; the four last distances being a +continual rapid, South-West by West one mile, East-North-East a mile and +a half, East-South-East one mile, where a small river flowed in on the +right; South-West by South two miles and a half, when another small +river appeared from the same quarter; South by East half a mile and +South-West by West one mile and a quarter: here we landed for the night. +When we had passed the last river we observed smoke rising from it, as +if produced by fires that had been fresh lighted; I therefore concluded +that there were natives on its banks: but I was unwilling to fatigue my +people, by pulling back against the current in order to go in search of +them.</p> + +<p>This river appeared, from its high water-mark, to have fallen no more +than one foot, while the smaller branch, from a similar measurement, had +sunk two feet and a half. On our entering it, we saw a flock of ducks +which were entirely white, except the bill and part of the wings. The +weather was cold and raw throughout the day, and the wind South-West. +We saw a smoke rising in columns from many parts of the woods, and I +should have been more anxious to see the natives, if there had been any +person with <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p132"></A>132}</SPAN>me who could have introduced me to them; but as that object +could not be then attained without considerable loss of time, I +determined to pursue the navigation while it continued to be so +favourable, and to wait till my return, if no very convenient +opportunity offered in the mean time, to engage an intercourse with +them.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 19.</i>—The morning was foggy, and at three we were on the +water. At half past that hour, our course was East by South three +quarters of a mile, a small river flowing in from the right. We then +proceeded South by East half a mile, and South-South-West a mile and a +half. During the last distance, clouds of thick smoke rose from the +woods, that darkened the atmosphere, accompanied with a strong odour of +the gum of cypress and the spruce-fir. Our courses continued to be +South-West a mile and a quarter, North-West by West three quarters of a +mile, South-South-East a mile and a quarter, East three quarters of a +mile, South-West one mile, West by South three quarters of a mile, +South-East by South three quarters of a mile, South by West half a mile, +West by South three quarters of a mile, South by West two miles and a +half. In the last course there was an island, and it appeared to me, +that the main channel of the river had formerly been on the other side +of it. The banks were here <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p133"></A>133}</SPAN>composed of high white cliffs, crowned with +pinnacles in very grotesque shapes. We continued to steer South-East by +South a mile and a half, South by East half a mile, East one mile and a +quarter, South-East by East one mile, South by East three quarters of a +mile, South-East by East one mile, South-South-East half a mile, East +one mile and a quarter, South by East half a mile, East a mile and half, +South-South-East three miles, and South-West three quarters of a mile. +In the last course the rocks contracted in such a manner on both sides +of the river, as to afford the appearance of the upper part of a fall or +cataract. Under this apprehension we landed on the left shore, where we +found a kind of footpath, imperfectly traced, through which we +conjectured that the natives occasionally passed with their canoes and +baggage. On examining the course of the river, however, there did not +appear to be any fall as we expected; but the rapids were of a +considerable length and impassable for a light canoe. We had therefore +no alternative but to widen the road so as to admit the passage of our +canoe, which was now carried with great difficulty; as from her frequent +repairs, and not always of the usual materials, her weight was such, +that she cracked and broke on the shoulders of the men who bore her. +The labour and fatigue of this undertaking, from eight till <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p134"></A>134}</SPAN>twelve, +beggars all description, when we at length conquered this afflicting +passage, of about half a mile, over a rocky and most rugged hill. Our +course was South-South-West. Here I took a meridian altitude which gave +me 53. 42. 20. North latitude. We, however, lost some time to put our +canoe in a condition to carry us onwards. Our course was South a +quarter of a mile to the next carrying-place; which was nothing more +than a rocky point about twice the length of the canoe. From the +extremity of this point to the rocky and almost perpendicular bank that +rose on the opposite shore, is not more than forty or fifty yards. The +great body of water, at the same time tumbling in successive cascades +along the first carrying-place, rolls through this narrow passage in a +very turbid current, and full of whirlpools. On the banks of the river +there was great plenty of wild onions, which when mixed up with our +pemmican was a great improvement of it; though they produced a physical +effect on our appetites, which was rather inconvenient to the state of +our provisions.</p> + +<p>Here we embarked, and steered South-East by East three quarters of a +mile. We now saw a smoke on the shore; but before we could reach land +the natives had deserted their camp, which appeared to be erected for no +more than two families. My two Indians <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p135"></A>135}</SPAN>were instantly dispatched in +search of them, and, by following their tracks, they soon overtook them; +but their language was mutually unintelligible; and all attempts to +produce a friendly communication were fruitless. They no sooner +perceived my young men than they prepared their bows and arrows, and +made signs for them not to advance; and they thought it prudent to +desist from proceeding, though not before the natives had discharged +five arrows at them, which, however, they avoided, by means of the +trees. When they returned with this account, I very much regretted that +I had not accompanied them; and as these people could not be at any very +great distance, I took Mr. Mackay, and one of the Indians with me in +order to overtake them; but they had got so far it would have been +imprudent in me to have followed them. My Indians, who, I believe, were +terrified at the manner in which these natives received them, informed +me, that, besides their bows, arrows, and spears, they were armed with +long knives, and that they accompanied their strange antics with +menacing actions and loud shoutings. On my return, I found my people +indulging their curiosity in examining the bags and baskets which the +natives had left behind them. Some of them contained their fishing +tackle, such as nets, lines, &c., others of a smaller size were <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p136"></A>136}</SPAN>filled +with a red earth, with which they paint themselves. In several of the +bags there were also sundry articles of which we did not know the use. +I prevented my men from taking any of them; and for a few articles of +mere curiosity, which I took myself, I left such things in exchange as +would be much more useful to their owners.</p> + +<p>At four we left this place, proceeding with the stream South-East three +quarters of a mile, East-South-East one mile, South three quarters of a +mile, South-South-West one mile, South by East three quarters of a mile, +South-South-East one mile, South-South-West two miles, South-South-East +three miles and a quarter, East by North one mile, South-South-East one +mile and a quarter, with a rapid, South-South-West three quarters of a +mile, South one mile and a half, South-East one mile and a quarter, +South three quarters of a mile, and South-South-East one mile and a +half. At half past seven we landed for the night, where a small river +flowed in from the right. The weather was showery, accompanied with +several loud claps of thunder. The banks were overshadowed by lofty +firs, and wide-spreading cedars.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 20.</i>—The morning was foggy, and at half past four we +proceeded with a South wind, South-East by East two miles, +South-South-East two miles and a half, and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p137"></A>137}</SPAN>South-South-West two miles. +The fog was so thick, that we could not see the length of our canoe, +which rendered our progress dangerous, as we might have come suddenly +upon a cascade or violent rapid. Our next course was West-North-West +two miles and a half, which comprehended a rapid. Being close in with +the left bank of the river, we perceived two red deer at the very edge +of the water: we killed one of them, and wounded the other, which was +very small. We now landed, and the Indians followed the wounded animal, +which they soon caught, and would have shot another in the woods, if our +dog, who followed them, had not disturbed it. From the number of their +tracks it appeared that they abounded in this country. They are not so +large as the elk of the Peace River, but are the real red deer, which I +never saw in the North, though I have been told that they are to be +found in great numbers in the plains along the Red, or Assiniboin River. +The bark had been stripped off many of the spruce trees, and carried +away, as I presumed, by the natives, for the purpose of covering their +cabins. We now got the venison on board, and continued our voyage +South-West one mile, South a mile and a half, and West one mile. Here +the country changed its appearance; the banks were but of a moderate +height, from whence the ground continued <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p138"></A>138}</SPAN>gradually rising to a +considerable distance, covered with poplars and cypresses, but without +any kind of underwood. There are also several low points which the +river, that is here about three hundred yards in breadth, sometimes +overflows, and are shaded with the liard, the soft birch, the spruce, +and the willow. For some distance before we came to this part of the +river, our view was confined within very rugged, irregular, and lofty +banks, which were varied with the poplar, different kinds of spruce fir, +small birch trees, cedars, alders, and several species of the willow. +Our next course was South-West by West six miles, when we landed at a +deserted house, which was the only Indian habitation of this kind that I +had seen on this side of Mechilimakina. It was about thirty feet long +and twenty wide, with three doors, three feet high by one foot and an +half in breadth. From this and other circumstances, it appears to have +been constructed for three families. There were also three fire-places, +at equal distances from each other; and the beds were on either side of +them. Behind the beds was a narrow space, in the form of a manger, and +somewhat elevated, which was appropriated to the purpose of keeping +fish. The wall of the house, which was five feet in height, was formed +of very strait spruce timbers, brought close together, and laid into +each other at the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p139"></A>139}</SPAN>corners. The roof was supported by a ridge pole, +resting on two upright forks of about ten feet high; that and the wall +support a certain number of spars, which are covered with spruce bark; +and the whole attached and secured by the fibers of the cedar. One of +the gable ends is closed with split boards; the other with poles. Large +rods are also fixed across the upper part of the building, where fish +may hang and dry. To give the walls additional strength, upright posts +are fixed in the ground, at equal distances, both within and without, of +the same height as the wall, and firmly attached with bark fibres. +Openings appear also between the logs in the wall, for the purpose, as I +conjectured, of discharging their arrows at a besieging enemy; they +would be needless for the purpose of giving light, which is sufficiently +afforded by fissures between the logs of the building, so that it +appeared to be constructed merely for a summer habitation. There was +nothing further to attract our attention in or about the house, except a +large machine, which must have rendered the taking off the roof +absolutely necessary, in order to have introduced it. It was of a +cylindrical form, fifteen feet long, and four feet and an half in +diameter; one end was square, like the head of a cask, and an conical +machine was fixed inwards to the other end, of similar <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p140"></A>140}</SPAN>dimensions; at +the extremity of which was an opening of about seven inches in diameter. +This machine was certainly contrived to set in the river, to catch large +fish; and very well adapted to that purpose; as when they are once in, +it must be impossible for them to get out, unless they should have +strength sufficient to break through it. It was made of long pieces of +split wood, rounded to the size of a small finger, and placed at the +distance of an inch asunder, on six hoops; to this was added a kind of +boot of the same materials, into which it may be supposed that the fish +are driven, when they are to be taken out. The house was left in such +apparent order as to mark the design of its owners to return thither. +It answered in every particular the description given us by our late +guide, except that it was not situated on an island.</p> + +<p>We left this place, and steered South by East one mile and a quarter +when we passed where there had been another house, of which the +ridge-pole and supporters alone remained: the ice had probably carried +away the body of it. The bank was at this time covered with water, and +a small river flowed in on the left. On a point we observed an erection +that had the appearance of a tomb; it was in an oblong form, covered, +and very neatly walled with bark. A pole was fixed near it, to which, +at the height of ten or twelve feet, a piece of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p141"></A>141}</SPAN>bark was attached, which +was probably a memorial, or symbol of distinction. Our next course was +South by West two miles and a half, when we saw a house on an island, +South-East by East one mile and three quarters, in which we observed +another island, with a house upon it. A river also flowed from the +right, and the land was high and rocky, and wooded with the epinette.</p> + +<p>Our canoe was now become so crazy that it was a matter of absolute +necessity to construct another; and as from the appearance of the +country there was reason to expect that bark was to be found, we landed +at eight, with the hope of procuring it. I accordingly dispatched four +men with that commission, and at twelve they returned with a sufficient +quantity to make the bottom of a canoe of five fathom in length, and +four feet and a half in height. At noon I had an observation, which +gave me 53. 17. 28. North latitude.</p> + +<p>We now continued our voyage South-East by South one mile and a half, +East-South-East one mile, East-North-East half a mile, South-East two +miles, South-East by South one mile, South-East six miles, and +East-North-East. Here the river narrows between steep rocks, and a +rapid succeeded, which was so violent that we did not venture to run it. +I therefore ordered the loading to be <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p142"></A>142}</SPAN>taken out of the canoe, but she +was now become so heavy that the men preferred running the rapid to the +carrying her overland. Though I did not altogether approve of their +proposition, I was unwilling to oppose it. Four of them undertook this +hazardous expedition, and I hastened to the foot of the rapid with great +anxiety, to wait the event, which turned out as I expected. The water +was so strong, that although they kept clear of the rocks, the canoe +filled, and in this state they drove half way down the rapid, but +fortunately she did not overset; and having got her into an eddy, they +emptied her, and in an half-drowned condition arrived safe on shore. +The carrying-place is about half a mile over, with an Indian path across +it. Mr. Mackay, and the hunters, saw some deer on an island above the +rapid; and had that discovery been made before the departure of the +canoe, there is little doubt but we should have added a considerable +quantity of venison to our stock of provisions. Our vessel was in such +a wretched condition, as I have already observed, that it occasioned a +delay of three hours to put her in a condition to proceed. At length we +continued our former course, East-North-East a mile and a half, when we +passed an extensive Indian encampment; East-South-East one mile, where a +small river appeared on the left; South-East by <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p143"></A>143}</SPAN>South one mile and three +quarters, East by South half a mile, East by North one mile, and saw +another house on an island; South half a mile, West three quarters of a +mile, South-West half a mile, where the cliffs of white and red clay +appeared like the ruins of ancient castles. Our canoe now veered +gradually to East-North-East one mile and a half, when we landed in a +storm of rain and thunder, where we perceived the remains of Indian +houses. It was impossible to determine the wind in any part of the day, +as it came a-head in all our directions.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 21.</i>—As I was very sensible of the difficulty of procuring +provisions in this country, I thought it prudent to guard against any +possibility of distress of that kind on our return; I therefore ordered +ninety pounds weight of pemmican to be buried in a hole, sufficiently +deep to admit of a fire over it without doing any injury to our hidden +treasure, and which would, at the same time, secure it from the natives +of the country, or the wild animals of the woods.</p> + +<p>The morning was very cloudy, and at four o'clock we renewed our voyage, +steering South by East one mile and a quarter, East-South-East half a +mile, South by East one mile and a half, East half a mile, South-East +two miles, where a large river flowed in from the left, and a smaller +one from the right. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p144"></A>144}</SPAN>We then continued South by West three quarters of a +mile, East by South a mile and a half, South three quarters of a mile, +South-East by East one mile, South by East half a mile, South-East three +quarters of a mile, South-East by South half a mile, South-East by East +half a mile, the cliffs of blue and yellow clay, displaying the same +grotesque shapes as those which we passed yesterday, South-South-East a +mile and a half, South by East two miles. The latitude by observation +was 52. 47. 51. North.</p> + +<p>Here we perceived a small new canoe, that had been drawn up to the edge +of the woods, and soon after another appeared, with one man in it, which +came out of a small river. He no sooner saw us than he gave the whoop +to alarm his friends, who immediately appeared on the bank, armed with +bows and arrows, and spears. They were thinly habited, and displayed +the most outrageous antics. Though they were certainly in a state of +great apprehension, they manifested by their gestures that they were +resolved to attack us, if we should venture to land. I therefore +ordered the men to stop the way of the canoe, and even to check her +drifting with the current, as it would have been extreme folly to have +approached these savages before their fury had in some degree subsided. +My interpreters, who understood their <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p145"></A>145}</SPAN>language, informed me that they +threatened us with instant death if we drew nigh the shore; and they +followed the menace by discharging a volley of arrows, some of which +fell short of the canoe, and others passed over it, so that they +fortunately did us no injury.</p> + +<p>As we had been carried by the current below the spot where the Indians +were, I ordered my people to paddle to the opposite side of the river, +without the least appearance of confusion, so that they brought me +abreast of them. My interpreters, while we were within hearing, had +done every thing in their power to pacify them, but in vain. We also +observed that they had sent off a canoe with two men, down the river, as +we concluded, to communicate their alarm, and procure assistance. This +circumstance determined me to leave no means untried that might engage +us in a friendly intercourse with them, before they acquired additional +security and confidence, by the arrival of their relations and +neighbours, to whom their situation would be shortly notified.</p> + +<p>I therefore formed the following adventurous project, which was happily +crowned with success. I left the canoe, and walked by myself along the +beach, in order to induce some of the natives to come to me, which I +imagined they might be disposed to do, when <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p146"></A>146}</SPAN>they saw me alone, without +any apparent possibility of receiving assistance from my people, and +would consequently imagine that a communication with me was not a +service of danger. At the same time, in order to possess the utmost +security of which my situation was susceptible, I directed one of the +Indians to slip into the woods, with my gun and his own, and to conceal +himself from their discovery; he also had orders to keep as near me as +possible, without being seen; and if any of the natives should venture +across, and attempt to shoot me from the water, it was his instructions +to lay him low: at the same time he was particularly enjoined not to +fire till I had discharged one or both of the pistols that I carried in +my belt. If, however, any of them were to land, and approach my person, +he was immediately to join me. In the meantime my other interpreter +assured them that we entertained the most friendly dispositions, which I +confirmed by such signals as I conceived would be comprehended by them. +I had not, indeed, been long at my station, and my Indian in ambush +behind me, when two of the natives came off in a canoe, but stopped when +they had got within a hundred yards of me. I made signs for them to +land, and as an inducement, displayed looking-glasses, beads, and other +alluring trinkets. At length, but with every mark of extreme +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p147"></A>147}</SPAN>apprehension, they approached the shore, stern foremost, but would not +venture to land. I now made them a present of some beads, with which +they were going to push off, when I renewed my entreaties, and, after +some time, prevailed on them to come ashore, and sit down by me. My +hunter now thought it right to join me, and created some alarm in my new +acquaintance. It was, however, soon removed, and I had the satisfaction +to find, that he and these people perfectly understood each other. I +instructed him to say every thing that might tend to soothe their fears +and win their confidence. I expressed my wish to conduct them to our +canoe, but they declined my offer; and when they observed some of my +people coming towards us, they requested me to let them return; and I +was so well satisfied with the progress I had made in my intercourse +with them, that I did not hesitate a moment in complying with their +desire. During their short stay, they observed us, and every thing +about us, with a mixture of admiration and astonishment. We could +plainly distinguish that their friends received them with great joy on +their return, and that the articles which they carried back with them +were examined with a general and eager curiosity; they also appeared to +hold a consultation, which lasted about a quarter of an hour, and the +result was, an invitation to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p148"></A>148}</SPAN>come over to them, which was cheerfully +accepted. Nevertheless, on our landing they betrayed evident signs of +confusion, which arose probably from the quickness of our movements, as +the prospect of a friendly communication had so cheered the spirits of +my people, that they paddled across the river with the utmost +expedition. The two men, however, who had been with us, appeared, very +naturally, to possess the greatest share of courage on the occasion, and +were ready to receive us on our landing; but our demeanour soon +dispelled all their apprehensions, and the most familiar communication +took place between us. When I had secured their confidence, by the +distribution of trinkets among them, and treated the children with +sugar, I instructed my interpreters to collect every necessary +information in their power to afford me.</p> + +<p>According to their account, this river, whose course is very extensive, +runs towards the mid-day sun; and that at its mouth, as they had been +informed, white people were building houses. They represented its +current to be uniformly strong, and that in three places it was +altogether impassable, from the falls and rapids, which poured along +between perpendicular rocks that were much higher, and more rugged, than +any we had yet seen, and would not admit of any passage over <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p149"></A>149}</SPAN>them. But +besides the dangers and difficulties of the navigation, they added, that +we should have to encounter the inhabitants of the country, who were +very numerous. They also represented their immediate neighbours as a +very malignant race, who lived in large subterraneous recesses; and when +they were made to understand that it was our design to proceed to the +sea, they dissuaded us from prosecuting our intention, as we should +certainly become a sacrifice to the savage spirit of the natives. These +people they described as possessing iron, arms, and utensils, which they +procured from their neighbours to the Westward, and were obtained by a +commercial progress from people like ourselves, who brought them in +great canoes.</p> + +<p>Such an account of our situation, exaggerated as it might be in some +points, and erroneous in others, was sufficiently alarming, and awakened +very painful reflections: nevertheless it did not operate on my mind so +as to produce any change in my original determination. My first object, +therefore, was to persuade two of these people to accompany me, that +they might secure to us a favourable reception from their neighbours. +To this proposition they assented, but expressed some degree of +dissatisfaction at the immediate departure, for which we were making +preparation; but when we were ready to enter the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p150"></A>150}</SPAN>canoe, a small one was +seen doubling the point below, with three men in it. We thought it +prudent to wait for their arrival, and they proved to be some of their +relations, who had received the alarm from the messengers which I have +already mentioned as having been sent down the river for that purpose, +and who had passed on, as we were afterwards informed, to extend the +notice of our arrival. Though these people saw us in the midst of their +friends, they displayed the most menacing actions, and hostile postures. +At length, however, this wild, savage spirit appeared to subside, and +they were persuaded to land. One of them, who was a middle aged person, +whose agitations had been less frequent than those of his companions, +and who was treated with particular respect by them all, inquired who we +were, whence we came, whither we were going, and what was the motive of +our coming into that country. When his friends had satisfied him as far +as they were able, respecting us, he instantly advised us to delay our +departure for that night, as their relations below, having been by this +time alarmed by the messengers, who had been sent for that purpose, +would certainly oppose our passage, notwithstanding I had two of their +own people with me. He added, that they would all of them be here by +sunset, they would convinced, as he was, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p151"></A>151}</SPAN>that we were good people, and +meditated no ill designs against them.</p> + +<p>Such were the reasons which this Indian urged in favour of our remaining +till the next morning; and they were too well founded for me to hesitate +in complying with them; besides, by prolonging my stay till the next +morning, it was probable that I might obtain some important intelligence +respecting the country through which I was to pass, and the people who +inhabited it. I accordingly ordered the canoe to be unloaded, taken out +of the water, and gummed. My tent was also pitched, and the natives +were now become so familiar, that I was obliged to let them know my wish +to be alone and undisturbed.</p> + +<p>My first application to the native whom I have already particularly +mentioned, was to obtain from him such a plan of the river as he should +be enabled to give me; and he complied with this request with a degree +of readiness and intelligence that evidently proved it was by no means a +new business to him. In order to acquire the best information he could +communicate, I assured him, if I found his account correct, that I +should either return myself, or send others to them, with such articles +as they appeared to want: particularly arms and ammunition, with which +they would be able to prevent their enemies from invading them. I +obtained, however, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p152"></A>152}</SPAN>no addition to what I already knew, but that the +country below us, as far as he was acquainted with it, abounded in +animals, and that the river produced plenty of fish.</p> + +<p>Our canoe was now become so weak, leaky, and unmanageable, that it +became a matter of absolute necessity to construct a new one; and I had +been informed, that if we delayed that important work till we got +further down the river, we should not be able to procure bark. I +therefore dispatched two of my people, with an Indian, in search of that +necessary material. The weather was so cloudy that I could not get an +observation.<a name="v2-c6-hl1" href="#v2-c6-hr1">[1]</a></p> + +<p>I passed the rest of the day in conversing with these people: they +consisted of seven families, containing eighteen men, they were clad in +leather, and handsome beaver and rabbit-skin blankets. They had not +been long arrived in this part of the country, where they proposed to +pass the summer, to catch fish for their winter provision: for this +purpose they were preparing machines similar to that which we found in +the first Indian house we saw and described. The fish which they take +in them are large, and only visit this part of the river at certain +seasons. These people differ very little, if at all, either in their +appearance, language, or manners, from <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p153"></A>153}</SPAN>the Rocky-Mountain Indians. The +men whom I sent in search of bark, returned with a certain quantity of +it, but of a very indifferent kind. We were not gratified with the +arrival of any of the natives whom we expected from a lower part of the +river.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c6-hr1" href="#v2-c6-hl1">[1]</a>The observation, already mentioned, I got on my return.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p154"></A>154}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter7" href="#toc_chapter7"> CHAPTER VII.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JUNE, 1793.</p> + +<p> <i>Saturday, 22.</i>—At six in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, +with two of the Indians, one of them in a small pointed canoe, made +after the fashion of the Esquimaux, and the other in our own. This +precaution was necessary in a two-fold point of view, as the small canoe +could be sent ahead to speak to any of the natives that might be seen +down the river, and, thus divided, would not be easy for them both to +make their escape. Mr. Mackay also embarked with the Indian, which +seemed to afford him great satisfaction, and he was thereby enabled to +keep us company with diminution of labour.</p> + +<p>Our courses were South-South-East a mile and a half, South-East half a +mile, South by East four miles and a half, South-East by South half a +mile, South by West half a mile, South-East by East one mile, +South-South-West a mile and a half, South by East one mile and a +quarter. The country, on the right, presented a very beautiful +appearance: it rose at first rather abruptly to the height of +twenty-five feet, when the precipice was succeeded by an inclined plain +to the foot of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p155"></A>155}</SPAN>another steep; which was followed by another extent of +gently-rising ground: these objects, which were shaded with groves of +fir, presenting themselves alternately to a considerable distance.</p> + +<p>We now landed near a house, the roof of which alone appeared above +ground; but it was deserted by its inhabitants who had been alarmed at +our approach. We observed several men in the second steep, who +displayed the same postures and menacing actions as those which we have +so lately described. Our conductors went to them immediately on an +embassy of friendship, and, after a very vociferous discourse, one of +them was persuaded to come to us, but presented a very ferocious aspect: +the rest, who were seven in number, soon followed his example. They +held their bows and arrows in their hands, and appeared in their +garments, which were fastened round the neck, but left the right arm +free for action. A cord fastened a blanket or leather covering under +the right armpit, so that it hung upon the left shoulder, and might be +occasionally employed as a target, that would turn an arrow which was +nearly spent. As soon as they had recovered from their apprehensions, +ten women made their appearance, but without any children, whom, I +imagine, they had sent to a greater distance, to be out of reach of all +possible <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p156"></A>156}</SPAN>danger. I distributed a few presents among them, and left my +guides to explain to them the object of my journey, and the friendliness +of my designs, with which they had themselves been made acquainted; +their fears being at length removed, I gave them a specimen of the use +to which we applied our firearms: at the same time, I calmed their +astonishment, by the assurance, that, though we could at once destroy +those who did us injury, we could equally protect those who shewed us +kindness. Our stay here did not exceed half an hour, and we left these +people with favourable impressions of us.</p> + +<p>From this place we steered East by North half a mile, South by East +three quarters of a mile, and South by West a mile and a half, when we +landed again on seeing some of the natives on the high ground, whose +appearance was more wild and ferocious than any whom we had yet seen. +Indeed I was under some apprehension that our guides, who went to +conciliate them to us, would have fallen a prey to their savage fury. +At length, however, they were persuaded to entertain a more favourable +opinion of us, and they approached us one after another, to the number +of sixteen men, and several women, I shook hands with them all, and +desired my interpreters to explain that salutation as a token of +friend-ship. As this was not a place where we could <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p157"></A>157}</SPAN>remain with the +necessary convenience, I proposed to proceed further, in search of a +more commodious spot. They immediately invited us to pass the night at +their lodges, which were at no great distance, and promised, at the same +time, that they would, in the morning, send two young men to introduce +us to the next nation, who were very numerous, and ill-disposed towards +strangers. As we were pushing from the shore, we were very much +surprised at hearing a woman pronounce several words in the Knisteneaux +language. She proved to be a Rocky Mountain native, so that my +interpreters perfectly understood her. She informed us that her country +is at the forks of this river, and that she had been taken prisoner by +the Knisteneaux, who had carried her across the mountains. After having +passed the greatest part of the summer with them, she had contrived to +escape, before they had reached their own country, and had re-crossed +the mountains, when she expected to meet her own friends: but after +suffering all the hardships incident to such a journey, she had been +taken by a war-party of the people with whom she then was, who had +driven her relations from the river into the mountains. She had since +been detained by her present husband, of whom she had no cause to +complain; nevertheless she expressed a strong desire to return to her +own people. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p158"></A>158}</SPAN>I presented her with several useful articles, and desired +her to come to me at the lodges, which she readily engaged to do. We +arrived thither before the Indians, and landed, as we had promised. It +was now near twelve at noon, but on attempting to take an altitude, I +found the angle too great for my sextant.</p> + +<p>The natives whom we had already seen, and several others, soon joined +us, with a greater number of women than I had yet seen; but I did not +observe the female prisoner among them. There were thirty-five of them, +and my remaining store of presents was not sufficient to enable me to be +very liberal to so many claimants. Among the men I found four of the +adjoining nation, and a Rocky-Mountain Indian, who had been with them +for some time. As he was understood by my interpreters, and was himself +well acquainted with the language of the strangers, I possessed the +means of obtaining every information respecting the country, which it +might be in their power to afford me. For this purpose I selected an +elderly man, from the four strangers, whose countenance had prepossessed +me in his favour. I stated to these people, as I had already done to +those from whom I had hitherto derived information, the objects of my +voyage, and the very great advantages which they would receive from my +successful termination of it. They <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p159"></A>159}</SPAN>expressed themselves very much +satisfied at my communication, and assured me that they would not +deceive me respecting the subject of my inquiry. An old man also, who +appeared to possess the character of a chief, declared his wish to see +me return to his land, and that his two young daughters should then be +at my disposal. I now proceeded to request the native, whom I had +particularly selected, to commence his information, by drawing a sketch +of the country upon a large piece of bark, and he immediately entered on +the work, frequently appealing to, and sometimes asking the advice of, +those around him. He described the river as running to the East of +South, receiving many rivers, and every six or eight leagues encumbered +with falls and rapids, some of which were very dangerous, and six of +them impracticable. The carrying-places he represented as of great +length, and passing over hills and mountains. He depicted the lands of +three other tribes, in succession, who spoke different languages. +Beyond them he knew nothing either of the river or country, only that it +was still a long way to the sea; and that, as he had heard, there was a +lake, before they reached the water, which the natives did not drink. +As far as his knowledge of the river extended, the country on either +side was level, in many places without wood and abounding in red <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p160"></A>160}</SPAN>deer, +and some of a small fallow kind. Few of the natives, he said, would +come to the banks for some time; but, that at a certain season they +would arrive there in great numbers, to fish. They now procured iron, +brass, copper, and trinkets, from the Westward; but formerly these +articles were obtained from the lower parts of the river, though in +small quantities. A knife was produced which had been brought from that +quarter. The blade was ten inches long, and an inch and a half broad, +but with a very blunted edge. The handle was of horn. We understood +that this instrument had been obtained from white men, long before they +had heard that any came to the Westward. One very old man observed, +that as long as he could remember, he was told of white people to the +Southward; and that he had heard, though he did not vouch for the truth +of the report, that one of them had made an attempt to come up the +river, and was destroyed.</p> + +<p>These people describe the distance across the country as very short to +the Western ocean; and, according to my own idea, it cannot be above +five or six degrees. If the assertion of Mr. Mears be correct, it +cannot be so far, as the inland sea which he mentions within Nootka, +must come as far East as 126. West longitude. They assured us that the +road was not difficult as they avoided the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p161"></A>161}</SPAN>mountains, keeping along the +low lands between them, many parts of which are entirely free from wood. +According to their account, this way is so often travelled by them, that +their path is visible throughout the whole journey, which lies along +small lakes and rivers. It occupied them, they said, no more than six +nights, to go to where they meet the people who barter iron, brass, +copper, beads, &c., with them, for dressed leather, and beaver, bear, +lynx, fox, and marten skins. The iron is about eighteen inches of +two-inch bar. To this they give an edge at one end, and fix it to a +handle at right angles, which they employ as an axe. When the iron is +worn down, they fabricate it into points for their arrows and pikes. +Before they procured iron they employed bone and horn for those +purposes. The copper and brass they convert into collars, arm-buds, +bracelets, and other ornaments. They sometimes also point their arrows +with those metals. They had been informed by those whom they meet to +trade with, that the white people, from whom these articles are +obtained, were building houses at the distance of three days, or two +nights journey from the place where they met last fall. With this route +they all appeared to be well acquainted.</p> + +<p>I now requested that they would send for <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p162"></A>162}</SPAN>the female prisoner whom I saw +yesterday; but I received only vague and evasive answers. They probably +apprehended, that it was our design to take her from them. I was, +however, very much disappointed at being prevented from having an +interview with her, as she might have given me a correct account of the +country beyond the forks of the river, as well as of the pass, through +the mountains, from them.</p> + +<p>My people had listened with great attention to the relation which had +been given me, and it seemed to be their opinion, that it would be +absolute madness to attempt a passage through so many savage and +barbarous nations. My situation may indeed, be more easily conceived +than expressed: I had no more than thirty days provision remaining, +exclusive of such supplies as I might obtain from the natives, and the +toil of our hunters, which, however, was so precarious as to be matter +of little dependence: besides, our ammunition would soon be exhausted, +particularly our ball, of which we had not more than a hundred and +fifty, and about thirty pound weight of shot, which, indeed, might be +converted into bullets, though with great waste. </p> + +<p>The more I heard of the river, the more I was convinced it could not +empty itself into the ocean to the North of what is called the river of +the West, so that with its windings, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p163"></A>163}</SPAN>the distance must be very great. Such being the +discouraging circumstances of my situation, which were now heightened by +the discontents of my people, I could not but be alarmed at the idea of +attempting to get to the discharge of such a rapid river, especially +when I reflected on the tardy progress of my return up it, even if I +should meet with no obstruction from the natives; a circumstance not +very probable, from the numbers of them which would then be on the +river, and whom I could have no opportunity of conciliating in my +passage down, for the reasons which have been already mentioned. At all +events, I must give up every expectation of returning this season to +Athabasca. Such were my reflections at this period; but instead of +continuing to indulge them, I determined to proceed with resolution, and +set future events at defiance. At the same time I suffered myself to +nourish the hope that I might be able to penetrate with more safety, and +in a shorter period, to the ocean by the inland western communication.</p> + +<p>To carry this project into execution I must have returned a considerable +distance up the river, which would necessarily be attended with very, +serious inconvenience, if I passed over every other; as in a voyage of +this kind, a retrograde motion could not fail to cool the ardour, +slacken the zeal and weaken the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p164"></A>164}</SPAN>confidence of those, who have no greater +inducement to the undertaking, than to follow the conductor of it. Such +was the state of my mind at this period, and such the circumstances with +which it was distressed and distracted.</p> + +<p>To the people who had given me the foregoing information I presented +some beads, which they preferred to any other articles in my possession, +and I recompensed in the same manner two of them who communicated to me +the following vocabulary in the language of the Nagailer and Atnah +tribes.</p> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="5%" width="100%"> +<tr><td></td><td> The Nagailer or<br> Carrier-Indians.</td> <td> The Atnah, or <br>Chin-Indians.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eye, </td><td> Nah, </td><td> Thlouatin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hair, </td><td> Thigah, </td><td> Cahowdin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Teeth,</td><td> Gough, </td><td> Chliough.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Nose, </td><td> Nenzeh, </td><td> Pisax.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Head, </td><td> Thie, </td><td> Scapacay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Wood, </td><td> Dekin, </td><td> Shedzay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hand, </td><td> Lah, </td><td> Calietha.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Leg, </td><td> Kin, </td><td> Squacht.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Tongue,</td><td> Thoula, </td><td> Dewhasjiak.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ear, </td><td> Zach, </td><td> Ithlinah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Man, </td><td> Dinay, </td><td> Scuyloch.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Woman,</td><td> Chiquoi, </td><td> Smosledgenak.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Beaver,</td><td> Zah, </td><td> Schugh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Elk, </td><td> Yezey, </td><td> Ookoy-Beh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Dog, </td><td> Sleing, </td><td> Scacah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ground-hog,</td><td> Thidnu, </td><td> Squaisquais.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Iron, </td><td> Thilisitch, </td><td> Soucoumang.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fire, </td><td> Coun, </td><td> Teuck.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Water, </td><td> Tou, </td><td> Shaweliquolih.</td></tr> +<tr><td><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p165"></A>165}</SPAN> Stone, </td><td> Zeh, </td><td> Ishehoinah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Bow, </td><td> Nettuny, </td><td> Isquoinah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Arrow, </td><td> Igah, </td><td> Squailai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Yes, </td><td> Nesi, </td><td> Amaig.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Plains,</td><td> Thoughoud, </td><td> Spilela.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Come here,</td><td> Andezei, </td><td> Thla-elyeh.</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>The Atnah language has no affinity to any with which I am acquainted; +but the Nagailer differs very little from that spoken by the Beaver +Indians, and is almost the same as that of the Chepewyans.</p> + +<p>We had a thunder-storm with heavy rain; and in the evening when it had +subsided, the Indians amused us with singing and dancing, in which they +were joined by the young women. Four men now arrived whom we had not +yet seen; they had left their families at some distance in the country, +and expressed a desire that we should visit them there.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 23.</i>—After a restless night, I called the Indians together, +from whom I yesterday received the intelligence which has been already +mentioned, in the hope that I might obtain some additional information. +From their former account they did not make the least deviation; but +they informed me further, that where they left this river, a small one +from the Westward falls into it, which was navigable for their canoes +during <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p166"></A>166}</SPAN>four days, and from thence they slept but two nights, to get to +the people with whom they trade, and who have wooden canoes much larger +than ours, in which they go down a river to the sea. They continued to +inform me, that if I went that way we must leave our own canoe behind +us; but they thought it probable that those people would furnish us with +another. From thence they stated the distance to be only one day's +voyage with the current to the lake whose water is nauseous, and where +they had heard that great canoes came two winters ago, and that the +people belonging to them, brought great quantities of goods and built +houses.</p> + +<p>At the commencement of this conversation, I was very much surprised by +the following question from one of the Indians: "What," demanded he, +"can be the reason that you are so particular and anxious in your +inquiries of us respecting a knowledge of this country: do not you white +men know every thing in the world?" This interrogatory was so very +unexpected, that it occasioned some hesitation before I could answer it. +At length, however, I replied, that we certainly were acquainted with +the principal circumstances of every part of the world; that I knew +where the sea is, and where I myself then was, but that I did not +exactly understand what obstacles might interrupt me in getting <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p167"></A>167}</SPAN>to it; +with which, he and his relations must be well acquainted, as they had so +frequently surmounted them. Thus I fortunately preserved the impression +in their minds, of the superiority of white people over themselves.</p> + +<p>It was now, however, absolutely necessary that I should come to a final +determination which route to take; and no long interval of reflection +was employed, before I preferred to go over land: the comparative +shortness and security of such a journey, were alone sufficient to +determine me. I accordingly proposed to two of the Indians to accompany +me, and one of them readily assented to my proposition.</p> + +<p>I now called those of my people about me, who had not been present at my +consultation with the natives; and after passing a warm eulogium on +their fortitude, patience, and perseverance, I stated the difficulties +that threatened our continuing to navigate the river, the length of time +it would require, and the scanty provision we had for such a voyage: I +then proceeded for the foregoing reasons to propose a shorter route, by +trying the overland road to the sea. At the same time, as I knew from +experience, the difficulty of retaining guides, and as many +circumstances might occur to prevent our progress in that direction, I +declared my resolution not to attempt it, unless they would <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p168"></A>168}</SPAN>engage if we +could not after all proceed over land, to return with me, and continue +our voyage to the discharge of the waters, whatever the distance might +be. At all events, I declared, in the most solemn manner, that I would +not abandon my design of reaching the sea, if I made the attempt alone, +and that I did not despair of returning in safety to my friends.</p> + +<p>This proposition met with the most zealous return, and they unanimously +assured me, that they were as willing now as they had ever been, to +abide by my resolutions, whatever they might be, and to follow me +wherever I should go. I therefore requested them to prepare for an +immediate departure, and at the same time gave notice to the man who had +engaged to be our guide, to be in readiness to accompany us. When our +determination to return up the river was made known, several of the +natives took a very abrupt departure; but to those who remained, I gave +a few useful articles, explaining to them at the same time, the +advantages that would result to them, if their relations conducted me to +the sea, along such a road as they had described. I had already given a +moose skin to some of the women for the purpose of making shoes, which +were now brought us; they were well sewed but ill-shaped, and a few +beads were considered as a sufficient <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p169"></A>169}</SPAN>remuneration for the skill +employed on them, Mr. Mackay, by my desire, engraved my name, and the +date of the year on a tree.</p> + +<p>When we were ready to depart, our guide proposed, for the sake of +expedition, to go over land to his lodge, that he might get there before +us, to make some necessary preparation for his journey. I did not +altogether relish his design, but was obliged to consent: I thought it +prudent, however, to send Mr. Mackay, and the two Indians along with +him. Our place of rendezvous, was the subterraneous house which we +passed yesterday.</p> + +<p>At ten in the morning we embarked, and went up the current much faster +than I expected with such a crazy vessel as that which carried us. We +met our people at the house as had been appointed; but the Indian still +continued to prefer going on by land, and it would have been needless +for me to oppose him. He proceeded, therefore, with his former +companions, whom I desired to keep him in good humour by every +reasonable gratification. They were also furnished with a few articles +that might be of use if they should meet strangers.</p> + +<p>In a short time after we had left the house, I saw a wooden canoe coming +down the river, with three natives in it, who, as soon as they perceived +us, made for the shore, and hurried <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p170"></A>170}</SPAN>into the woods. On passing their +vessel, we discovered it to be one of those which we had seen at the +lodges. A severe gust of wind, with rain, came from the +South-South-East. This we found to be a very prevalent wind in these +parts. We soon passed another wooden canoe drawn stern foremost on the +shore; a circumstance which we had not hitherto observed. The men +worked very hard, and though I imagined we went a-head very fast, we +could not reach the lodges, but landed for the night at nine, close to +the encampment of two families of the natives whom we had formerly seen +at the lodges. I immediately went and sat down with them, when they +gave some roasted fish; two of my men who followed me were gratified +also with some of their provisions. The youngest of the two natives now +quitted the shed, and did not return during the time I remained there. +I endeavoured to explain to the other by signs, the cause of my sudden +return, which he appeared to understand. In the mean time my tent was +pitched, and on my going to it, I was rather surprised that he did not +follow me, as he had been constantly with me during the day and night I +had passed with his party on going down. We, however, went to rest in a +state of perfect security; nor had we the least apprehension for the +safety of our people who were gone by land.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p171"></A>171}</SPAN>We were in our canoe by four this morning, and passed by the Indian hut, +which appeared in a state of perfect tranquillity. We soon came in +sight of the point where we first saw the natives, and at eight were +much surprised and disappointed at seeing Mr. Mackay, and our two +Indians coming alone from the ruins of a house that had been partly +carried away by the ice and water, at a short distance below the place +where we had appointed to meet. Nor was our surprise and apprehension +diminished by the alarm which was painted in their countenances. When +we had landed, they informed me that they had taken refuge in that +place, with the determination to sell their lives, which they considered +in the most imminent danger, as dear as possible. In a very short time +after they had left us, they met a party of the Indians, whom we had +known at this place, and were probably those whom we had seen to land +from their canoe. They appeared to be in a state of extreme rage, and +had their bows bent, with their arrows across them. The guide stopped +to ask them some questions, which my people did not understand, and then +set off with his utmost speed. Mr. Mackay, however, did not leave him +till they were both exhausted with running. When the young man came up, +he then said, that some treacherous design was meditated against them, +as he was induced to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p172"></A>172}</SPAN>believe from the declaration of the natives, who +told him that they were going to do mischief, but refused to name the +enemy. The guide then conducted them through very bad ways, as fast as +they could run; and when he was desired to slacken his pace, he answered +that they might follow him in any manner they pleased, but that he was +impatient to get to his family, in order to prepare shoes, and other +necessaries, for his journey. They did not, however, think it prudent +to quit him, and he would not stop till ten at night. On passing a +track that was but lately made, they began to be seriously alarmed, and +on inquiring of the guide where they were, he pretended not to +understand them. They then all laid down, exhausted with fatigue, and +without any kind of covering: they were cold, wet, and hungry, but dared +not light a fire, from the apprehension of an enemy. This comfortless +spot they left at the dawn of the day, and, on their arrival at the +lodges, found them deserted; the property of the Indians being scattered +about, as if abandoned for ever. The guide then made two or three trips +into the woods, calling aloud, and bellowing like a madman. At length +he set off in the same direction as they came, and had not since +appeared. To heighten their misery, as they did not find us at the +place appointed, they concluded that we were <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p173"></A>173}</SPAN>all destroyed, and had +already formed their plan to take to the woods, and cross in as direct a +line as they could proceed, to the waters of the Peace River, a scheme +which could only be suggested by despair. They intended to have waited +for us till noon, and if we did not appear by that time, to have entered +without further delay on their desperate expedition.</p> + +<p>This alarm among the natives was a very unexpected as well as perilous +event, and my powers of conjecture were exhausted in searching for the +cause of it. A general panic seized all around me, and any further +prosecution of the voyage was now considered by them as altogether +hopeless and impracticable. But without paying the least attention to +their opinions or surmises, I ordered them to take every thing out of +the canoe, except six packages: when that was done, I left four men to +take care of the lading, and returned with the others to our camp of +last night, where I hoped to find the two men, with their families, whom +we had seen there, and to be able to bring them to lodge with us, when I +should wait the issue of this mysterious business. This project, +however, was disappointed, for these people had quitted their sheds in +the silence of the night, and had not taken a single article of their +little property with them.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p174"></A>174}</SPAN>These perplexing circumstances made a deep +impression on my mind, not as to our immediate safety, for I entertained +not the least apprehension of the Indians I had hitherto seen, even if +their whole force should have been combined to attack us, but these +untoward events seemed to threaten the prosecution of my journey; and I +could not reflect on the possibility of such a disappointment but with +sensations little short of agony. Whatever might have been the wavering +disposition of the people on former occasions, they were now decided in +their opinions as to the necessity of returning without delay; and when +we came back to them, their cry was—"Let us re-embark, and be gone." +This, however, was not my design, and in a more peremptory tone than I +usually employed, they were ordered to unload the canoe, and take her +out of the water. On examining our property, several articles appeared +to be missing, which the Indians must have purloined; and among them +were an axe, two knives, and the young men's bag of medicines. We now +took a position that was the best calculated for defence, got our arms +in complete order, filled each man's flask of powder, and distributed an +hundred bullets, which were all that remained, while some were employed +in melting down shot to make more. The weather was so cloudy, <p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p175"></A>175}</SPAN>that I +had not an opportunity of taking an observation.</p> + +<p>While we were employed in making these preparations, we saw an Indian in +a canoe come down the river, and land at the huts, which he began to +examine. On perceiving us he stood still, as if in a state of suspense, +when I instantly dispatched one of my Indians towards him, but no +persuasions could induce him to have confidence in us; he even +threatened that he would hasten to join his friends, who would come and +kill us. At the conclusion of this menace he disappeared. On the +return of my young man, with this account of the interview, I pretended +to discredit the whole, and attributed it to his own apprehensions and +alarms. This, however, he denied, and asked with a look and tone of +resentment, whether he had ever told me a lie? Though he was but a +young man, he said, he had been on war excursions before he came with +me, and that he should no longer consider me as a wise man, which he had +hitherto done.</p> + +<p>To add to our distresses we had not an ounce of gum for the reparation +of the canoe, and not one of the men had sufficient courage to venture +into the woods to collect it. In this perplexing situation I +entertained the hope that in the course of the night some of the natives +would return, to take away a part <p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p176"></A>176}</SPAN>at least of the things which they had +left behind them, as they had gone away without the covering necessary +to defend them from the weather and the flies. I therefore ordered the +canoe to be loaded, and dropped to an old house, one side of which, with +its roof, had been carried away by the water; but the three remaining +angles were sufficient to shelter us from the woods. I then ordered two +strong piquets to be driven into the ground, to which the canoe was +fastened, so that if we were hard pressed we had only to step on board +and push off. We were under the necessity of making a smoke to keep off +the swarms of flies, which would have otherwise tormented us; but we did +not venture to excite a blaze, as it would have been a mark for the +arrows of the enemy. Mr. Mackay and myself, with three men kept +alternate watch, and allowed the Indians to do as they fancied. I took +the first watch, and the others laid down in their clothes by us. I +also placed a centinel at a small distance, who was relieved every hour. +The weather was cloudy, with showers of rain.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 25.</i>—At one I called up the other watch, and laid down to a +small portion of broken rest. At five I arose, and as the situation +which we left yesterday was preferable to that which we then occupied, I +determined to return to it. On our arrival Mr. Mackay <p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p177"></A>177}</SPAN>informed me that +the men had expressed their dissatisfaction to him in a very unreserved +manner, and had in very strong terms declared their resolution to follow +me no further in my proposed enterprise. I did not appear, however, to +have received such communications from him, and continued to employ my +whole thoughts in contriving means to bring about a reconciliation with +the natives, which alone would enable me to procure guides, without +whose assistance it would be impossible for me to proceed, when my +darling project would end in disappointment.</p> + +<p>At twelve we saw a man coming with the stream upon a raft, and he must +have discovered us before we perceived him, as he was working very hard +to get to the opposite shore, where he soon landed, and instantly fled +into the woods. I now had a meridional altitude, which gave +60. 23. natural horizon (the angle being more than the sextant could +measure with the artificial horizon) one mile and a half distant; and +the eye five feet above the level of the water, gave 62. 47. 51. North +latitude.</p> + +<p>While I was thus employed, the men loaded the canoe, without having +received any orders from me, and as this was the first time they had +ventured to act in such a decided manner, I naturally concluded that +they had <p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p178"></A>178}</SPAN>preconcerted a plan for their return. I thought it prudent, +however, to take no notice of this transaction, and to wait the issue of +future circumstances. At this moment our Indians perceived a person in +the edge of the woods above us, and they were immediately dispatched to +discover who it was. After a short absence they returned with a young +woman whom we had seen before: her language was not clearly comprehended +by us, so that we could not learn from her, at least with any degree of +certainty, the cause of this unfortunate alarm that had taken place +among the natives. She told us that her errand was to fetch some things +which she had left behind her; and one of the dogs whom we found here, +appeared to acknowledge her as his mistress. We treated her with great +kindness, gave her something to eat, and added a present of such +articles as we thought might please her. On her expressing a wish to +leave us, we readily consented to her departure, and indulged the hope +that her reception would induce the natives to return in peace, and give +us an opportunity to convince them, that we had no hostile designs +whatever against them. On leaving us, she went up the river, without +taking a single article of her own, and the dog followed. The wind was +changeable throughout the day, and <p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p179"></A>179}</SPAN>there were several showers in the +course of it.</p> + +<p>Though a very apparent anxiety prevailed among the people for their +departure, I appeared to be wholly inattentive to it, and at eight in +the evening I ordered four men to step into the canoe, which had been +loaded for several hours, and drop down to our guard-house, and my +command was immediately obeyed: the rest of us proceeded there by land. +When I was yet at a considerable distance from the house, and thought it +impossible for an arrow to reach it, having a bow and quiver in my hand, +I very imprudently let fly an arrow, when, to my astonishment and +infinite alarm, I heard it strike a log of the house. The men who had +just landed, imagined that they were attacked by an enemy from the +woods. Their confusion was in proportion to their imaginary danger, and +on my arrival I found that the arrow had passed within a foot of one of +the men; though it had no point, the weapon, incredible as it may +appear, had entered an hard, dry log of wood upwards of an inch. But +this was not all: for the men readily availed themselves of this +circumstance, to remark upon the danger of remaining in the power of a +people possessed of such means of destruction. Mr. Mackay having the +first watch, I laid myself down in my cloak.</p> + + +<br><p><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p180"></A>180}</SPAN> <i>Wednesday, 26.</i>—At midnight a rustling noise was heard in the woods +which created a general alarm, and I was awakened to be informed of the +circumstance, but heard nothing. At one I took my turn of the watch, +and our dog continued unceasingly to run backwards and forwards along +the skirts of the wood in a state of restless vigilance. At two in the +morning the centinel informed me, that he saw something like an human +figure creeping along on all-fours about fifty paces above us. After +some time had passed in our search, I at length discovered that his +information was true, and it appeared to me that a bear had occasioned +the alarm; but when day appeared, it proved to be an old, grey-haired, +blind man, who had been compelled to leave his hiding-place by extreme +hunger, being too infirm to join in the flight of the natives to whom he +belonged. When I put my hand on this object of decaying nature, his +alarm was so great, that I expected it would have thrown him into +convulsions. I immediately led him to our fire which had been just +lighted, and gave him something to eat, which he much wanted, as he had +not tasted food for two days. When his hunger was satisfied, and he had +got warm and composed, I requested him to acquaint me with the cause of +that alarm which had taken place respecting us among his relations and +friends, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p181"></A>181}</SPAN>whose regard we appeared to have conciliated but a few days +past. He replied, that very soon after we had left them, some natives +arrived from above, who informed them that we were enemies; and our +unexpected return, in direct contradiction to our own declarations, +confirmed them in that opinion. They were now, he said, so scattered, +that a considerable time would elapse, before they could meet again. We +gave him the real history of our return, as well as of the desertion of +our guide, and, at the same time, stated the impossibility of our +proceeding, unless we procured a native to conduct us. He replied, that +if he had not lost his sight, he would with the greatest readiness have +accompanied us on our journey. He also confirmed the accounts which we +had received of the country, and the route to the Westward. I did not +neglect to employ every argument in my power, that he might be persuaded +of our friendly dispositions to the inhabitants wheresoever we might +meet them.</p> + +<p>At sun-rise we perceived a canoe with one man in it on the opposite side +of the river, and at our request, the blind man called to him to come to +us, but he returned no answer, and continued his course as fast as he +could paddle down the current. He was considered as a spy by my men, +and I was confirmed in that opinion, when I saw a wooden canoe <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p182"></A>182}</SPAN>drifting +with the stream close in to the other shore, where it was more than +probable that some of the natives might be concealed. It might, +therefore, have been an useless enterprise, or perhaps fatal to the +future success of our undertaking, if we had pursued these people, as +they might, through fear have employed their arms against us, and +provoked us to retaliate.</p> + +<p>The old man informed me, that some of the natives whom I had seen here +were gone up the river, and those whom I saw below had left their late +station to gather a root in the plains, which, when dried, forms a +considerable article in their winter stock of provisions. He had a +woman, he said, with him, who used to see us walking along the small +adjoining river, but when he called her he received no answer, so that +she had probably fled to join her people. He informed me, also, that he +expected a considerable number of his tribe to come on the upper part of +the river to catch fish for their present support, and to cure them for +their winter store; among whom he had a son and two brothers.</p> + +<p>In consequence of these communications, I deemed it altogether +unnecessary to lose any more time at this place, and I informed the old +man that he must accompany me for the purpose of introducing us to his +friends and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p183"></A>183}</SPAN>relations, and that if we met with his son or brothers, I +depended upon him to persuade them, or some of their party, to attend us +as guides in our meditated expedition. He expressed his wishes to be +excused from this service, and in other circumstances we should not have +insisted on it, but, situated as we were, we could not yield to his +request.</p> + +<p>At seven in the morning we left this place, which I named Deserter's +River or Creek. Our blind guide was, however, so averse to continuing +with us, that I was under the very disagreeable necessity of ordering +the men to carry him into the canoe; and this was the first act during +my voyage, that had the semblance of violent dealing. He continued to +speak in a very loud tone, while he remained, according to his +conjecture, near enough to the camp to be heard, but in a language that +our interpreters did not understand. On asking him what he said, and +why he did not speak in a language known to us, he replied, that the +woman understood him better in that which he spoke, and he requested +her, if she heard him, to come for him to the carrying-place, where he +expected we should leave him.</p> + +<p>At length our canoe was become so leaky, that it was absolutely unfit +for service; and it was the unremitting employment of one person to keep +her clear of water: we, therefore, inquired of the old man where we +could <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p184"></A>184}</SPAN>conveniently obtain the articles necessary to build a new one; and +we understood from him that, at some distance up the river, we should +find plenty of bark and cedar.</p> + +<p>At ten, being at the foot of a rapid, we saw a small canoe coming down +with two men in it. We thought it would be impossible for them to +escape, and therefore struck off from the shore with a design to +intercept them, directing the old man at the same time to address them; +but they no sooner perceived us, than they steered into the strength of +the current, where I thought that they must inevitably perish; but their +attention appeared to be engrossed by the situation of their canoe, and +they escaped without making us the least reply.</p> + +<p>About three in the afternoon we perceived a lodge at the entrance of a +considerable river on the right, as well as the tracks of people in the +mud at the mouth of a small river on the left. As they appeared to be +fresh, we landed, and endeavoured to trace them, but without success. +We then crossed over to the lodge, which was deserted, but all the usual +furniture of such buildings remained untouched.</p> + +<p>Throughout the whole of this day the men had been in a state of extreme +ill-humour, and as they did not choose openly to vent it upon me, they +disputed and quarrelled among <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p185"></A>185}</SPAN>themselves. About sun-set the canoe +struck upon the stump of a tree, which broke a large hole in her bottom; +a circumstance that gave them an opportunity to let loose their +discontents without reserve. I left them as soon as we had landed, and +ascended an elevated bank, in a state of mind which I scarce wish to +recollect, and shall not attempt to describe. At this place there was a +subterraneous house, where I determined to pass the night. The water +had risen since we had passed down, and it was with the utmost exertion +that we came up several points in the course of the day.</p> + +<p>We embarked at half past four, with very favourable weather, and at +eight we landed, where there was an appearance of our being able to +procure bark; we, however, obtained but a small quantity. At twelve we +went on shore again, and collected as much as was necessary for our +purpose. It now remained for us to fix on a proper place for building +another canoe, as it was impossible to proceed with our old one, which +was become an absolute wreck. At five in the afternoon we came to a +spot well adapted to the business in which we were about to engage. It +was on a small island not much encumbered with wood, though there was +plenty of the spruce kind on the opposite land, which was only divided +from us by a small channel. We now <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p186"></A>186}</SPAN>landed, but before the canoe was +unloaded, and the tent pitched, a violent thunder-storm came on, +accompanied with rain, which did not subside till the night had closed +in upon us. Two of our men who had been in the woods for axe-handles, +saw a deer, and one of them shot at it, but unluckily missed his aim. A +net was also prepared and set in the eddy at the end of the island.</p> + + +<br> +<br> +<br><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p187"></A>187}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter8" href="#toc_chapter8"> CHAPTER VIII.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JUNE, 1793.</p> + +<p> <i>Friday, 28.</i>—At a very early hour of the morning every man was +employed in making preparations for building another canoe, and +different parties went in search of wood, watape, and gum. At two in +the afternoon they all returned successful, except the collectors of +gum, and of that article it was feared we should not obtain here a +sufficient supply for our immediate wants. After a necessary portion of +time allotted for refreshment, each began his respective work. I had an +altitude at noon, which made us in 53. 2. 32. North latitude.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 29.</i>—The weather continued to be fine. At five o'clock we +renewed our labour, and the canoe was got in a state of considerable +forwardness. The conductor of the work, though a good man, was +remarkable for the tardiness of his operations, whatever they might be, +and more disposed to eat than to be active; I therefore took this +opportunity of unfolding my sentiments to him, and thereby discovering +to all around me the real state of my mind, and the resolutions I had +formed for my future conduct. After reproaching <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p188"></A>188}</SPAN>him for his general +inactivity, but particularly on the present occasion, when our time was +so precious, I mentioned the apparent want of economy, both of himself +and his companions, in the article of provisions. I informed him that I +was not altogether a stranger to their late conversations, from whence I +drew the conclusion that they wished to put an end to the voyage. If +that were so, I expressed my wish that they would be explicit, and tell +me at once of their determination to follow me no longer. I concluded, +however, by assuring him, that whatever plan they had meditated to +pursue, it was my fixed and unalterable determination to proceed, in +spite of every difficulty that might oppose, or danger that should +threaten me. The man was very much mortified at my addressing this +remonstrance particularly to him; and replied that he did not deserve my +displeasure more than the rest of them. My object being answered, the +conversation dropped, and the work went on.</p> + +<p>About two in the afternoon one of the men perceived a canoe with two +natives in it, coming along the inside of the island, but the water +being shallow, it turned back, and we imagined that on perceiving us +they had taken the alarm; but we were agreeably surprised on seeing them +come up the outside of the island, when we recognised our guide, and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p189"></A>189}</SPAN>one +of the natives whom we had already seen; The former began immediately to +apologize for his conduct, and assured me that since he had left me, his +whole time had been employed in searching after his family, who had been +seized with the general panic, that had been occasioned by the false +reports of the people who had first fled from us. He said it was +generally apprehended by the natives, that we had been unfriendly to +their relations above, who were expected upon the river in great numbers +at this time: and that many of the Atnah or Chin nation, had come up the +river to where we had been, in the hope of seeing us, and were very much +displeased with him and his friends for having neglected to give them an +early notice of our arrival there. He added, that the two men whom we +had seen yesterday, or the day before, were just returned from their +rendezvous, with the natives of the sea coast, and had brought a message +from his brother-in-law, that he had a new axe for him, and not to +forget to bring a moose-skin dressed in exchange, which he actually had +in his canoe. He expected to meet him, he said, at the other end of the +carrying-place.</p> + +<p>This was as pleasing intelligence as we had reason to expect, and it is +almost superfluous to observe that we stood in great need of it. I had +a meridian altitude, which gave 53. 3. 7. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p190"></A>190}</SPAN>North latitude. I also took +time in the fore and afternoon, that gave a mean of 1. 37. 42. +Achrometer slow apparent time, which, with an observed immersion of +Jupiter's first satellite, made our longitude 122. 48. West of +Greenwich.</p> + +<p>The blind old man gave a very favourable account of us to his friends, +and they all three were very merry together during the whole of the +afternoon. That our guide, however, might not escape from us during the +night, I determined to set a watch upon him.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 30.</i>—Our strangers conducted themselves with great good +humour throughout the day. According to their information, we should +find their friends above and below the carrying-place. They mentioned, +also, that some of them were not of their tribe, but are allied to the +people of the sea coast, who trade with the white men. I had a meridian +altitude, that gave 53. 3. 17. North latitude.</p> + +<br><p>JULY. <i>Monday, 1.</i>—Last night I had the first watch, when one of my +Indians proposed to sit up with me, as he understood, from the old man's +conversation, that he intended, in the course of the night, to make his +escape. Accordingly, at eleven I extinguished my light, and sat quietly +in my tent, from whence I could observe the motions of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p191"></A>191}</SPAN>natives. +About twelve, though the night was rather dark, I observed the old man +creeping on his hands and knees towards the water-side. We accordingly +followed him very quietly to the canoe, and he would have gone away with +it, if he had not been interrupted in his design. On upbraiding him for +his treacherous conduct, when he had been treated with so much kindness +by us, he denied the intention of which we accused him, and declared +that his sole object was to assuage his thirst. At length, however, he +acknowledged the truth, and when we brought him to the fire, his +friends, who now awoke, on being informed of what had passed, reprobated +his conduct, and asked him how he could expect that the white people +would return to this country, if they experienced such ungrateful +treatment. The guide said, for his part, he was not a woman, and would +never run away through fear. But notwithstanding this courageous +declaration, at once I awakened Mr. Mackay, related to him what had +passed, and requested him not to indulge himself in sleep, till I should +rise. It was seven before I awoke, and on quitting my tent I was +surprised at not seeing the guide and his companion, and my +apprehensions were increased when I observed that the canoe was removed +from its late situation. To my inquiries after them, some of the men +very composedly <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p192"></A>192}</SPAN>answered that they were gone up the river, and had left +the old man behind them. Mr. Mackay also told me, that while he was +busily employed on the canoe, they had got to the point before he had +observed their departure. The interpreter now informed me that at the +dawn of day the guide had expressed his design, as soon as the sun was +up, to go and wait for us, where he might find his friends. I hoped +this might be true; but that my people should suffer them to depart +without giving me notice, was a circumstance that awakened very painful +reflections in my breast. The weather was clear in the forenoon. My +observation this day gave 53. 8. 82. North latitude.</p> + +<p>At five in the afternoon our vessel was completed, and ready for +service. She proved a stronger and better boat than the old one, though +had it not been for the gum obtained from the latter, it would have been +a matter of great difficulty to have procured a sufficiency of that +article to have prevented her from leaking. The remainder of the day +was employed by the people in cleaning and refreshing themselves, as +they had enjoyed no relaxation from their labour since we landed on this +spot.</p> + +<p>The old man having manifested for various and probably very fallacious +reasons, a very great aversion to accompany us any further, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p193"></A>193}</SPAN>it did not +appear that there was any necessity to force his inclination. We now +put our arms in order, which was soon accomplished, as they were at all +times a general object of attention.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 2.</i>—It rained throughout the night, but at half past three +we were ready to embark, when I offered to conduct the old man where he +had supposed we should meet his friends, but he declined the +proposition. I therefore directed a few pounds of pemmican to be left +with him, for his immediate support, and took leave of him and the +place, which I named Canoe Island. During our stay there we had been +most cruelly tormented by flies, particularly the sand-fly, which I am +disposed to consider as the most tormenting insect of its size in +nature. I was also compelled to put the people upon short allowance, +and confine them to two meals a day, a regulation peculiarly offensive +to a Canadian voyager. One of these meals was composed of the dried +rows of fish, pounded, and boiled in water, thickened with a small +quantity of flour, and fattened with a bit of grian. These articles, +being brought to the consistency of an hasty pudding, produced a +substantial and not unpleasant dish. The natives are very careful of +the rows of fish, which they dry, and preserve in baskets made of bark. +Those we used were found in the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p194"></A>194}</SPAN>huts of the first people who fled from +us. During our abode in Canoe Island, the water sunk three +perpendicular feet. I now gave the men a dram each, which could not but +be considered, at this time, as a very comfortable treat. They were, +indeed, in high spirits, when they perceived the superior excellence of +the new vessel, and reflected that it was the work of their own hands.</p> + +<p>[Transcriber's Note: The word 'grian' above is printed thus in this, +and other, editions.]</p> + +<p>At eleven we arrived at the rapids, and the foreman, who had not +forgotten the fright he suffered on coming down it, proposed that the +canoe and lading should be carried over the mountain. I threatened him +with taking the office of foreman on myself, and suggested the evident +change there was in the appearance of the water since we passed it, +which upon examination had sunk four feet and an half. As the water did +not seem so strong on the West side, I determined to cross over, having +first put Mr. Mackay, and our two hunters, on shore, to try the woods +for game. We accordingly traversed, and got up close along the rocks, +to a considerable distance, with the paddles, when we could proceed no +further without assistance from the line; and to draw it across a +perpendicular rock, for the distance of fifty fathoms, appeared to be an +insurmountable obstacle. The general opinion was to return, and carry +on the other side; I desired, however, two of the men to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p195"></A>195}</SPAN>take the line, +which was seventy fathoms in length, with a small roll of bark, and +endeavour to climb up the rocks, from whence they were to descend on the +other side of that which opposed our progress; they were then to fasten +the end of the line to the roll of bark, which the current would bring +to us; this being effected, they would be able to draw us up. This was +an enterprise of difficulty and danger, but it was crowned with success; +though to get to the water's edge above, the men were obliged to let +themselves down with the line, run round a tree, from the summit of the +rock. By a repetition of the same operation, we at length cleared the +rapid, with the additional trouble of carrying the canoe, and unloading +at two cascades. We were not more than two hours getting up this +difficult part of the river, including the time employed in repairing an +hole which had been broken in the canoe, by the negligence of the +steersman.</p> + +<p>Here we expected to meet with the natives, but there was not the least +appearance of them, except that the guide, his companion, and two +others, had apparently passed the carrying-place. We saw several fish +leap out of the water, which appeared to be of the salmon kind. The old +man, indeed, had informed us that this was the season when the large +fish begin to come up the river. Our <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p196"></A>196}</SPAN>hunters returned, but had not seen +the track of any animal. We now continued our journey; the current was +not strong, but we met with frequent impediments from the fallen trees, +which lay along the banks. We landed at eight in the evening; and +suffered indescribable inconveniences from the flies.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 3.</i>—It had rained hard in the night, and there was some +small rain in the morning. At four we entered our canoe, and at ten we +came to a small river, which answered to the description of that whose +course the natives said, they follow in their journies towards the sea +coast; we therefore put into it, and endeavoured to discover if our +guide had landed here; but there were no traces of him or of any others. +My former perplexities were now renewed. If I passed this river, it was +probable that I might miss the natives; and I had reason to suspect that +my men would not consent to return thither. As for attempting the +woods, without a guide, to introduce us to the first inhabitants, such a +determination would be little short of absolute madness. At length, +after much painful reflection, I resolved to come at once to a full +explanation with my people, and I experienced a considerable relief from +this resolution. Accordingly, after repeating the promise they had so +lately made me, on our putting back up the river, I represented to them +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p197"></A>197}</SPAN>that this appeared to me to be the spot from which the natives took +their departure for the sea coast, and added, withal, that I was +determined to try it: for though our guide had left us, it was possible +that, while we were making the necessary preparations, he or some others +might appear, to relieve us from our present difficulties. I now found, +to my great satisfaction, that they had not come to any fixed +determination among themselves, as some of them immediately assented to +undertake the woods with me. Others, however, suggested that it might +be better to proceed a few leagues further up the river, in expectation +of finding our guide, or procuring another, and that after all we might +return hither. This plan I very readily agreed to adopt, but before I +left this place, to which I gave the name of the West-Road River, I sent +some of the men into the woods, in different directions, and went some +distance up the river myself, which I found to be navigable only for +small canoes. Two of the men found a good beaten path, leading up a +hill just behind us, which I imagined to be the great road.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon we left this place, proceeding up the river; +and had not been upon the water more than three quarters of an hour, +when we saw two canoes coming with the stream. No sooner did the people +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p198"></A>198}</SPAN>in them perceive us than they landed, and we went on shore at the same +place with them. They proved to be our guide, and six of his relations. +He was covered with a painted beaver robe, so that we scarcely knew him +in his fine habiliment. He instantly desired us to acknowledge that he +had not disappointed us, and declared, at the same time, that it was his +constant intention to keep his word. I accordingly gave him a jacket, a +pair of trowsers, and a handkerchief, as a reward for his honourable +conduct. The strangers examined us with the most minute attention, and +two of them, as I was now informed, belonged to the people whom we first +saw, and who fled with so much alarm from us. They told me, also, that +they were so terrified on that occasion, as not to approach their huts +for two days; and that when they ventured thither, they found the +greater part of their property destroyed, by the fire running in the +ground. According to their account, they were of a different tribe, +though I found no difference in their language from that of the Nagailas +or Carriers. They are called Nascud Denee. Their lodges were at some +distance, on a small lake, where they take fish, and if our guide had +not gone for them there, we should not have seen a human being on the +river. They informed me that the road by their habitation is the +shortest, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p199"></A>199}</SPAN>and they proposed that we should take it.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 4.</i>—At an early hour this morning, and at the suggestion +of our guide, we proceeded to the landing-place that leads to the +strangers' lodges. Our great difficulty here was to procure a temporary +separation from our company, in order to hide some articles we could not +carry with us, and which it would have been imprudent to leave in the +power of the natives. Accordingly Mr. Mackay, and one of our Indians +embarked with them, and soon run out of our sight. At our first +hiding-place we left a bag of pemmican, weighing ninety pounds, two bags +of wild rice, and a gallon keg of gunpowder. Previous to our putting +these articles in the ground, we rolled them up in oilcloth, and dressed +leather. In the second hiding-place, and guarded with the same rollers, +we hid two bags of Indian corn, or maize, and a bale of different +articles of merchandise. When we had completed this important object, +we proceeded till half past eight, when we landed at the entrance of a +small rivulet, where our friends were waiting for us.</p> + +<p>Here it was necessary that we should leave our canoe, and whatever we +could not carry on our backs. In the first place, therefore, we +prepared a stage, on which the canoe was placed bottom upwards, and +shaded by a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p200"></A>200}</SPAN>covering of small trees and branches, to keep her from the +sun. We then built an oblong hollow square, ten feet by five, of green +logs, wherein we placed every article it was necessary for us to leave +here, and covered the whole with large pieces of timber.</p> + +<p>While we were eagerly employed in this necessary business, our guide and +his companions were so impatient to be gone, that we could not persuade +the former to wait till we were prepared for our departure, and we had +some difficulty in persuading another of the natives to remain, who had +undertook to conduct us where the guide had promised to wait our +arrival.</p> + +<p>At noon we were in a state of preparation to enter the woods, an +undertaking of which I shall not here give any preliminary opinion, but +leave those who read it to judge for themselves.</p> + +<p>We carried on our backs four bags and a half of pemmican, weighing from +eighty-five to ninety pounds each; a case with my instruments, a parcel +of goods for presents, weighing ninety pounds, and a parcel containing +ammunition of the same weight. Each of the Canadians had a burden of +about ninety pounds, with a gun, and some ammunition. The Indians had +about forty-five pounds weight of pemmican to carry, besides their gun, +&c., with which they were very <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p201"></A>201}</SPAN>much dissatisfied, and if they had dared +would have instantly left us. They had hitherto been very much +indulged, but the moment was now arrived, when indulgence was no longer +practicable. My own load, and that of Mr. Mackay, consisted of +twenty-two pounds of pemmican, some rice, a little sugar, &c., amounting +in the whole to about seventy pounds each, besides our arms and +ammunition. I had also the tube of my telescope swung across my +shoulder, which was a troublesome addition to my burthen. It was +determined that we should content ourselves with two meals a day, which +were regulated without difficulty, as our provisions did not require the +ceremony of cooking.</p> + +<p>In this state of equipment we began our journey, as I have already +mentioned, about twelve at noon, the commencement of which was a steep +ascent of about a mile; it lay along a well-beaten path, but the country +through which it led was rugged and ridgy, and full of wood. When we +were in a state of extreme heat, from the toil of our journey, the rain +came on, and continued till evening, and even when it ceased, the +underwood continued its drippings upon us.</p> + +<p>About half past six we arrived at an Indian camp of three fires, where +we found our guide, and on his recommendation we determined to remain +there for the night. The <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p202"></A>202}</SPAN>computed distance of this day's journey was +about twelve geographical miles; the course about West.</p> + +<p>At sun-set, an elderly man and three other natives joined us from the +Westward. The former bore a lance, which very much resembled a +serjeant's halberd. He had lately received it, by way of barter, from +the natives of the Sea-Coast, who procured it from the white men. We +should meet, he said, with many of his countrymen, who had just returned +from thence. According to his report, it did not require more than six +days' journey, for people who are not heavily laden, to reach the +country of those with whom they bartered their skins for iron, &c., and +from thence it is not quite two days' march to the sea. They proposed +to send two young men on before us, to notify to the different tribes +that we were approaching, that they might not be surprised at our +appearance, and be disposed to afford us a friendly reception. This was +a measure which I could not but approve, and endeavoured by some small +presents to prepossess our couriers in our favour.</p> + +<p>These people live but poorly at this season, and I could procure no +provision from them, but a few small, dried fish, as I think, of the +carp kind. They had several European articles; and one of them had a +strip of fur, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p203"></A>203}</SPAN>which appeared to me to be of the sea otter. He obtained +it from the natives of the coast, and exchanged it with me for some +beads and a brass cross.</p> + +<p>We retired to rest in as much security as if we had been long habituated +to a confidence in our present associates: indeed, we had no +alternative; for so great were the fatigues of the day in our mode of +travelling, that we were in great need of rest at night.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 5.</i>—We had no sooner laid ourselves down to rest last night, +than the natives began to sing, in a manner very different from what I +had been accustomed to hear among savages. It was not accompanied +either with dancing, drum, or rattle; but consisted of soft plaintive +tones, and a modulation that was rather agreeable: it had somewhat the +air of church music. As the natives had requested me not to quit them +at a very early hour in the morning, it was five before I desired that +the young men, who were to proceed with us, should depart, when they +prepared to set off: but on calling to our guide to conduct us, he said +that he did not intend to accompany us any further; as the young men +would answer our purpose as well as himself. I knew it would be in vain +to remonstrate with him, and therefore submitted to his caprice without +a reply. However, I thought proper to inform him, that one of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p204"></A>204}</SPAN>my people +had lost his dag or poignard, and requested his assistance in the +recovery of it. He asked me what I would give him to conjure it back +again; and a knife was agreed to be the price of his necromantic +exertions. Accordingly, all the dags and knives in the place were +gathered together, and the natives formed a circle round them; the +conjurer also remaining in the middle. When this part of the ceremony +was arranged, he began to sing, the rest joining in the chorus; and +after some time he produced the poignard, which was stuck in the ground, +and returned it to me.</p> + +<p>At seven we were ready to depart; when I was surprised to hear our late +guide propose, without any solicitation on our part, to resume his +office; and he actually conducted us as far as a small lake, where we +found an encampment of three families. The young men who had undertaken +to conduct us, were not well understood by my interpreters, who +continued to be so displeased with their journey, that they performed +this part of their duty with great reluctance. I endeavoured to +persuade an elderly man of this encampment to accompany us to the next +tribe, but no inducement of mine could prevail on him to comply with my +wishes. I was, therefore, obliged to content myself with the guides I +had already engaged, for whom we were obliged to wait some time, till +they had <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p205"></A>205}</SPAN>provided shoes for their journey. I exchanged two halfpence +here, one of his present Majesty, and the other of the State of +Massachusett's Bay, coined in 1787. They hung as ornaments in +children's ears.</p> + +<p>My situation here was rendered rather unpleasant by the treatment which +my hunters received from these people. The former, it appeared, were +considered as belonging to a tribe who inhabit the mountains, and are +the natural enemies of the latter. We had also been told by one of the +natives, of a very stern aspect, that he had been stabbed by a relation +of theirs, and pointed to a scar as the proof of it. I was, therefore, +very glad to proceed on my journey.</p> + +<p>Our guides conducted us along the lake through thick woods, and without +any path, for about a mile and a half, when we lost sight of it. This +piece of water is about three miles long and one broad. We then crossed +a creek and entered upon a beaten track, through an open country, +sprinkled with cyprus trees. At twelve the sky became black, and a +heavy gust with rain shortly followed, which continued for upwards of an +hour. When we perceived the approaching storm, we fixed our thin light +oil-cloth to screen us from it. On renewing our march, as the bushes +were very wet, I desired our guides, they having no burdens, to walk in +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p206"></A>206}</SPAN>front and beat them as they went: this task they chose to decline, and +accordingly I undertook it. Our road now lay along a lake, and across a +creek that ran into it. The guides informed me, that this part of the +country abounds in beaver: many traps were seen along the road, which +had been set for lynxes and martens. About a quarter of a mile from the +place where we had been stopped by the rain, the ground was covered with +hail, and as we advanced, the hailstones increased in size, some of them +being as big as musket-balls. In this manner was the ground whitened +for upwards of two miles. At five in the afternoon we arrived on the +banks of another lake, when it again threatened rain; and we had already +been sufficiently wetted in the course of the day, to look with +complacency towards a repetition of it: we accordingly fixed our shed, +the rain continuing with great violence through the remainder of the +day: it was therefore determined, that we should stop here for the +night.</p> + +<p>In the course of the day we passed three winter huts; they consisted of +low walls, with a ridge pole, covered with the branches of the Canadian +balsam-tree. One of my men had a violent pain in his knee, and I asked +the guides to take a share of his burden, as they had nothing to carry +but their beaver robes, and bows and arrows, but they could not <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p207"></A>207}</SPAN>be made +to understand a word of my request.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 6.</i>—At four this morning I arose from my bed, such as it +was. As we must have been in a most unfortunate predicament, if our +guides should have deserted us in the night, by way of security, I +proposed to the youngest of them to sleep with me, and he readily +consented. These people have no covering but their beaver garments, and +that of my companions was a nest of vermin. I, however, spread it under +us, and having laid down upon it, we covered ourselves with my camblet +cloak. My companion's hair being greased with fish-oil, and his body +smeared with red earth, my sense of smelling as well as that of feeling, +threatened to interrupt my rest; but these inconveniences yielded to my +fatigue, and I passed a night of sound repose.</p> + +<p>I took the lead in our march, as I had done yesterday, in order to clear +the branches of the wet which continued to hang upon them. We proceeded +with all possible expedition through a level country with but little +underwood; the larger trees were of the fir kind. At half past eight we +fell upon the road, which we first intended to have taken from the Great +River, and must be shorter than that which we had travelled. The +West-road river was also in sight, winding through a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p208"></A>208}</SPAN>valley. We had not +met with any water since our encampment of last night, and though we +were afflicted with violent thirst, the river was at such a distance +from us, and the descent to it so long and steep, that we were compelled +to be satisfied with casting our longing looks towards it. There +appeared to be more water in the river here, than at its discharge. The +Indian account, that it is navigable for their canoes, is, I believe, +perfectly correct.</p> + +<p>Our guides now told us, that as the road was very good and well traced, +they would proceed to inform the next tribe that we were coming. This +information was of a very unpleasant nature; as it would have been easy +for them to turn off the road at an hundred yards from us, and, when we +had passed them, to return home. I proposed that one of them should +remain with us, while two of my people should leave their loads behind +and accompany the other to the lodges. But they would not stay to hear +our persuasions, and were soon out of sight.</p> + +<p>I now desired the Cancre to leave his burden, take a small quantity of +provision, with his arms and blanket, and follow me. I also told my men +to come on as fast as they could, and that I would wait for them as soon +as I had formed an acquaintance with the natives of the country before +us. We accordingly <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p209"></A>209}</SPAN>followed our guides with all the expedition in our +power, but did not overtake them till we came to a family of natives, +consisting of one man, two women, and six children, with whom we found +them. These people betrayed no signs of fear at our appearance, and the +man willingly conversed with my interpreter, to whom he made himself +more intelligible, than our guides had been able to do. They, however, +had informed him of the object of our journey. He pointed out to us one +of his wives, who was a native of the sea coast, which was not a very +great distance from us. This woman was more inclined to corpulency than +any we had yet seen, was of low stature, with an oblong face, grey eyes, +and a flattish nose. She was decorated with ornaments of various kinds, +such as large blue beads, either pendant from her ears, encircling her +neck, or braided in her hair: she also wore bracelets of brass, copper, +and horn. Her garments consisted of a kind of tunic, which was covered +with a robe of matted bark, fringed round the bottom with skin of the +sea otter. None of the women whom I had seen since we crossed the +mountain wore this kind of tunic; their blankets being merely girt round +the waist. She had learned the language of her husband's tribe, and +confirmed his account, that we were at no great distance from the sea. +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p210"></A>210}</SPAN>They were on their way, she said, to the great river to fish. Age +seemed to be an object of great veneration among these people, for they +carried an old woman by turns on their backs who was quite blind and +infirm from the very advanced period of her life.</p> + +<p>Our people having joined us and rested themselves, I requested our +guides to proceed, when the elder of them told me that he should not go +any further, but that these people would send a boy to accompany his +brother, and I began to think myself rather fortunate, that we were not +deserted by them all.</p> + +<p>About noon we parted, and in two hours we came up with two men and their +families: when we first saw them they were sitting down, as if to rest +themselves; but no sooner did they perceive us than they rose up and +seized their arms.—The boys who were behind us immediately ran +forwards and spoke to them, when they laid by their arms and received us +as friends. They had been eating green berries and dried fish We had, +indeed, scarcely joined them, when a woman and a boy came from the river +with water, which they very hospitably gave us to drink. The people of +this party had a very sickly appearance, which might have been the +consequence of disease, or that indolence which is so natural to them, +or of both. One of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p211"></A>211}</SPAN>women had a tattooed line along the chin, of the +same length of her mouth.</p> + +<p>The lads now informed me that they would go no further, but that these +men would take their places; and they parted from their families with as +little apparent concern, as if they were entire strangers to each other. +One of them was very well understood by my interpreter, and had resided +among the natives of the sea coast, whom he had left but a short time. +According to his information, we were approaching a river, which was +neither large nor long, but whose banks were inhabited; and that in the +bay which the sea forms at the mouth of it, a great wooden canoe, with +white people, arrives about the time when the leaves begin to grow; I +presume in the early part of May.</p> + +<p>After we parted with the last people, we came to an uneven, hilly, +swampy country, through which our way was impeded by a considerable +number of fallen trees. At five in the afternoon we were overtaken by a +heavy shower of rain and hail, and being at the same time very much +fatigued, we encamped for the night near a small creek. Our course till +we came to the river, was about South-West ten miles, and then West, +twelve or fourteen miles. I thought it prudent, by way of security, to +submit to the same inconveniences I have already described, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p212"></A>212}</SPAN>and shared +the beaver robe of one of my guides during the night.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 7.</i>—I was so busily employed in collecting intelligence from +our conductors, that I last night forgot to wind up my timepiece, and it +was the only instance of such an act of negligence since I left Fort +Chepewyan on the 11th of last October. At five we quitted our station, +and proceeded across two mountains, covered with spruce, poplar, +white-birch, and other trees. We then descended into a level country, +where we found a good road, through woods of cypress. We then came to +two small lakes, at the distance of about fourteen miles. Course about +West. Through them the river passes, and our road kept in a parallel +line with it on a range of elevated ground. On observing some people +before us, our guides hastened to meet them, and, on their approach, one +of them stepped forward with an axe in his hand. This party consisted +only of a man, two women, and the same number of children. The eldest +of the women, who probably was the man's mother, was engaged, when we +joined them, in clearing a circular spot, of about five feet in +diameter, of the weeds that infested it; nor did our arrival interrupt +her employment, which was sacred to the memory of the dead. The spot to +which her pious care was devoted, contained the grave of an husband, and +a son, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p213"></A>213}</SPAN>and whenever she passed this way, she always stopped to pay this +tribute of affection.</p> + +<p>As soon as we had taken our morning allowance, we set forwards, and +about three we perceived more people before us. After some alarm we +came up with them. They consisted of seven men, as many women, and +several children. Here I was under the necessity of procuring another +guide, and we continued our route on the same side of the river, till +six in the evening, when we crossed it. It was knee deep, and about an +hundred yards over. I wished now to stop for the night, as we were all +of us very much fatigued, but our guide recommended us to proceed +onwards to a family of his friends, at a small distance from thence, +where we arrived at half past seven. He had gone forward, and procured +us a welcome and quiet reception. There being a net hanging to dry, I +requested the man to prepare and set it in the water, which he did with +great expedition, and then presented me with a few small dried fish. +Our course was South-West about twelve miles, part of which was an +extensive swamp, that was seldom less than knee deep. In the course of +the afternoon we had several showers of rain: I had attempted to take an +altitude, but it was past meridian. The water of the river before the +lodge was quite still, and expanded itself the form of a small <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p214"></A>214}</SPAN>lake. In +many other places, indeed, it had assumed the same form.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 8.</i>—It rained throughout the night, and it was seven in the +morning before the weather would allow us to proceed. The guide brought +me five small boiled fish, in a platter made of bark; some of them were +of the carp kind, and the rest of a species for which I am not qualified +to furnish a name. Having dried our clothes, we set off on our march +about eight, and our guide very cheerfully continued to accompany us; +but he was not altogether so intelligible as his predecessors in our +service. We learned from him, however, that this lake, through which +the river passes, extends to the foot of the mountain, and that he +expected to meet nine men, of a tribe which inhabits the North side of +the river.</p> + +<p>In this part of our journey we were surprised with the appearance of +several regular basons, some of them furnished with water, and the +others empty; their slope from the edge to the bottom formed an angle of +about forty-five degrees, and their perpendicular depth was about twelve +feet. Those that contained water, discovered gravel near their edges, +while the empty ones were covered with grass and herbs, among which we +discovered mustard, and mint. There were also several places from +whence the water appears <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p215"></A>215}</SPAN>to have retired, which are covered with the +same soil and herbage.</p> + +<p>We now proceeded along a very uneven country, the upper parts of which +were covered with poplars, a little under-wood, and plenty of grass: the +intervening vallies were watered with rivulets. From these +circumstances, and the general appearance of vegetation, I could not +account for the apparent absence of animals of every kind.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 9.</i>—At two in the afternoon we arrived at the largest river +that we had seen, since we left our canoe, and which forced its way +between and over the huge stones that opposed its current. Our course +was about South-South-West sixteen miles along the river, which might +here justify the title of a lake. The road was good, and our next +course, which was West by South, brought us onward ten miles, where we +encamped, fatigued and wet, it having rained three parts of the day. +This river abounds with fish, and must fall into the great river, +further down than we had extended our voyage.</p> + +<p>A heavy and continued rain fell through great part of the night, and as +we were in some measure exposed to it, time was required to dry our +clothes; so that it was half past seven in the morning before we were +ready to set out. As we found the country so destitute of game, and +foreseeing the difficulty of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p216"></A>216}</SPAN>procuring provisions for our return, I +thought it prudent to conceal half a bag of pemmican: having sent off +the Indians, and all my people except two, we buried it under the +fire-place, as we had done on a former occasion. We soon overtook our +party, and continued our route along the river or lake. About twelve I +had an altitude, but it was inaccurate from the cloudiness of the +weather. We continued our progress till five in the afternoon, when the +water began to narrow, and in about half an hour we came to a ferry, +where we found a small raft. At this time it began to thunder, and +torrents of rain soon followed, which terminated our journey for the +day. Our course was about South, twenty-one miles from the lake already +mentioned. We now discovered the tops of mountains, covered with snow, +over very high intermediate land. We killed a whitehead and a grey +eagle, and three grey partridges; we also saw two otters in the river, +and several beaver lodges along it. When the rain ceased, we caught a +few small fish, and repaired the raft for the service of the ensuing +day.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 10.</i>—At an early hour of this morning we prepared to +cross the water. The traverse is about thirty yards, and it required +five trips to get us all over. At a short distance below, a small river +falls in, that comes from the direction in which we <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p217"></A>217}</SPAN>were proceeding. It +is a rapid for about three hundred yards, when it expands into a lake, +along which our road conducted us, and beneath a range of beautiful +hills, covered with verdure. At half past eight we came to the +termination of the lake, where there were two houses that occupied a +most delightful situation, and as they contained their necessary +furniture, it seemed probable that their owners intended shortly to +return. Near them were several graves or tombs, to which the natives +are particularly attentive, and never suffer any herbage to grow upon +them. In about half an hour we reached a place where there were two +temporary huts, that contained thirteen men, with whom we found our +guide who had preceded us, in order to secure a good reception. The +buildings were detached from each other, and conveniently placed for +fishing in the lake. Their inhabitants called themselves +Sloua-cuss-Dinais, which denomination, as far as my interpreter could +explain it to me, I understood to mean Red-fish Men. They were much +more cleanly, healthy, and agreeable in their appearance, than any of +the natives whom we had passed; nevertheless, I have no doubt that they +are the same people, from their name alone, which is of the Chepewyan +language. My interpreters, however, understood very little of what they +said, so that I did not expect <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p218"></A>218}</SPAN>much information from them. Some of them +said it was a journey of four days to the sea, and others were of +opinion that it was six; and there were among them who extended it to +eight; but they all uniformly declared that they had been to the coast. +They did not entertain the smallest apprehension of danger from us, and, +when we discharged our pieces, expressed no sensation but that of +astonishment, which, as may be supposed, was proportionably increased +when one of the hunters shot an eagle, at a considerable distance. At +twelve I obtained an altitude, which made our latitude 53. 4. 32. North, +being not so far South as I expected.</p> + +<p>I now went, accompanied by one of my men, an interpreter, and the guide, +to visit some huts at the distance of a mile. On our arrival, the +inhabitants presented us with a dish of boiled trout, of a small kind. +The fish would have been excellent if it had not tasted of the kettle, +which was made of the bark of the white spruce, and of the dried grass +with which it was boiled. Besides this kind of trout, red and white +carp and jub, are the only fish I saw as the produce of these waters.</p> + +<p>These people appeared to live in a state of comparative comfort; they +take a greater share in the labour of the women, than is common among +the savage tribes, and are, as <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p219"></A>219}</SPAN>I was informed, content with one wife. +Though this circumstance may proceed rather from the difficulty of +procuring subsistence, than any habitual aversion to polygamy.</p> + +<p>My present guide now informed me, that he could not proceed any further, +and I accordingly engaged two of these people to succeed him in that +office; but when they desired us to proceed on the beaten path without +them, as they could not set off till the following day, I determined to +stay that night, in order to accommodate myself to their convenience. I +distributed some trifles among the wives and children of the men who +were to be our future guides, and returned to my people. We came back +by a different way, and passed by two buildings, erected between four +trees, and about fifteen feet from the ground, which appeared to me to +be intended as magazines for winter provisions. At four in the +afternoon, we proceeded with considerable expedition, by the side of the +lake, till six, when we came to the end of it: we then struck off +through a much less beaten track, and at half past seven stopped for the +night. Our course, was about West-South-West thirteen miles, and West +six miles.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 11.</i>—I passed a most uncomfortable night: the first part +of it I was tormented with flies, and in the latter deluged with rain. +In the morning the weather <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p220"></A>220}</SPAN>cleared, and as soon as our clothes were +dried, we proceeded through a morass. This part of the country had been +laid waste by fire, and the fallen trees added to the pain and +perplexity of our way. A high, rocky ridge stretched along our left. +Though the rain returned, we continued our progress till noon, when our +guide took to some trees for shelter. We then spread our oil-cloth, +and, with some difficulty, made a fire. About two the rain ceased, when +we continued our journey through the same kind of country which we had +hitherto passed. At half past three we came in sight of a lake; the +land at the same time gradually rising to a range of mountains whose +tops were covered with snow. We soon after observed two fresh tracks, +which seemed to surprise our guides, but they supposed them to have been +made by the inhabitants of the country, who were come into this part of +it to fish. At five in the afternoon we were so wet and cold (for it +had at intervals continued to rain) that we were compelled to stop for +the night. We passed seven rivulets and a creek in this day's journey, +As I had hitherto regulated our course by the sun, I could not form an +accurate judgment of this route, as we had not been favoured with a +sight of it during the day; but I imagine it to have been nearly in the +same direction as that of yesterday. Our distance <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p221"></A>221}</SPAN>could not have been +less than fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>Our conductors now began to complain of our mode of travelling, and +mentioned their intention of leaving us; and my interpreters, who were +equally dissatisfied, added to our perplexity by their conduct. Besides +these circumstances, and the apprehension that the distance from the sea +might be greater than I had imagined, it became a matter of real +necessity that we should begin to diminish the consumption of our +provisions, and to subsist upon two-thirds of our allowance; a +preposition which was as unwelcome to my people, as it was necessary to +put into immediate practice.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 12.</i>—At half past five this morning we proceeded on our +journey, with cloudy weather, and when we came to the end of the lake, +several tracks were visible that led to the side of the water; from +which circumstance I concluded, that some of the natives were fishing +along the banks of it. This lake is not more than three miles long, and +about one broad. We then passed four smaller lakes, the two first being +on our right, and those which preceded, on our left. A small river also +flowed across our way from the right, and we passed it over a +beaver-dam. A larger lake new appeared on our right, and the mountains +on each side of us were covered <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p222"></A>222}</SPAN>with snow. We afterwards came to +another lake on our right, and soon reached a river, which our guides +informed us was the same that we had passed on a raft. They said it was +navigable for canoes from the great river, except two rapids, one of +which we had seen. At this place it was upwards of twenty yards across, +and deep water. One of the guides swam over to fetch a raft which was +on the opposite side; and having encreased its dimensions, we crossed at +two trips, except four of the men, who preferred swimming.</p> + +<p>Here our conductors renewed their menace of leaving us, and I was +obliged to give them several articles, and promise more, in order to +induce them to continue till we could procure other natives to succeed +them. At four in the afternoon we forded the same river, and being with +the guides at some distance before the rest of the people, I sat down to +wait for them, and no sooner did they arrive, than the former set off +with so much speed, that my attempt to follow them proved unsuccessful. +One of my Indians, however, who had no load, overtook them, when they +excused themselves to him by declaring that their sole motive for +leaving us, was to prevent the people, whom they expected to find, from +shooting their arrows at us. At seven o'clock, however, were so +fatigued, that <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p223"></A>223}</SPAN>we encamped without them; the mountains covered with snow +now appeared to be directly before us. As we were collecting wood for +our fire, we discovered a cross road, where it appeared that people had +passed within seven or eight days. In short, our situation was such as +to afford a just cause of alarm, and that of the people with me was of a +nature to defy immediate alleviation. It was necessary, however, for me +to attempt it; and I rested my principles of encouragement on a +representation of our past perplexities and unexpected relief, and +endeavoured to excite in them the hope of similar good fortune. I +stated to them, that we could not be at a great distance from the sea, +and that there were but few natives to pass, till we should arrive among +those, who being accustomed to visit the sea coast, and, having seen +white people, would be disposed to treat us with kindness. Such was the +general tenor of the reasoning I employed on the occasion, and I was +happy to find that it was not offered in vain.</p> + +<p>The weather had been cloudy till three in the afternoon, when the sun +appeared; but surrounded, as we were, with snow-clad mountains; the air +became so cold, that the violence of our exercise, was not sufficient to +produce a comfortable degree of warmth. Our course to-day was from West +to South <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p224"></A>224}</SPAN>and at least thirty-six miles. The land in general was very +barren and stony, and lay in ridges, with cypress trees scattered over +them. We passed several swamps, where we saw nothing to console us but +a few tracks of deer.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 13.</i>—The weather this morning was clear but cold, and our +scanty covering was not sufficient to protect us from the severity of +the night. About five, after we had warmed ourselves at a large fire, +we proceeded on our dubious journey. In about an hour we came to the +edge of a wood, when we perceived a house, situated on a green spot, and +by the side of a small river. The smoke that issued from it informed us +that it was inhabited. I immediately pushed forward towards this +mansion, while my people were in such a state of alarm, that they +followed me with the greatest reluctance. On looking back, I perceived +that we were in an Indian defile, of fifty yards in length. I, however, +was close upon the house before the inhabitants perceived us, when the +women and children uttered the most horrid shrieks, and the only man who +appeared to be with them, escaped out of a back door, which I reached in +time to prevent the women and children from following him. The man fled +with all his speed into the wood, and I called in vain on my +interpreters to speak to him, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p225"></A>225}</SPAN>but they were so agitated with fear as to +have lost the power of utterance. It is impossible to describe the +distress and alarm of these poor people, who believing that they were +attacked by enemies, expected an immediate massacre, which, among +themselves, never fails to follow such an event.</p> + +<p>Our prisoners consisted of three women, and seven children, which +apparently composed three families. At length, however, by our +demeanor, and our presents, we contrived to dissipate their +apprehensions. One of the women then informed us, that their people, +with several others had left that place three nights before, on a +trading journey to a tribe whom she called Annah, which is the name the +Chepewyans give to the Knisteneaux, at the distance of three days. She +added also, that from the mountains before us, which were covered with +snow, the sea was visible; and accompanied her information with a +present of a couple of dried fish. We now expressed our desire that the +man might be induced to return, and conduct us in the road to the sea. +Indeed, it was not long before he discovered himself in the wood, when +he was assured, both by the women and our interpreters, that we had no +hostile design against him; but these assurances had no effect in +quieting his apprehensions. I then attempted to go to him alone, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p226"></A>226}</SPAN>and +showed him a knife, beads, &c., to induce him to come to me, but he, in +return, made a hostile display of his bow and arrows: and, having for +some time exhibited a variety of strange antics, again disappeared. +However, he soon presented himself in another quarter, and after a +succession of parleys between us, he engaged to come and accompany us.</p> + +<p>While these negotiations were proceeding, I proposed to visit the +fishing machines, to which the women readily consented, and I found in +them twenty small fish, such as trout, carp, and jub, for which I gave +her a large knife; a present that appeared to be equally unexpected and +gratifying to her. Another man now came towards us, from a hill, +talking aloud from the time he appeared, till he reached us. The +purport of his speech was, that he threw himself upon our mercy and we +might kill him, if it was our pleasure but that from what he had heard, +he looked rather for our friendship than our enmity. He was an elderly +person, of a decent appearance, and I gave him some articles to +conciliate him to us. The first man now followed with a lad along with +him, both of whom were the sons of the old man, and, on his arrival, he +gave me several half dried fish, which I considered as a peace-offering. +After some conversation with these people, respecting the country, and +our future progress <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p227"></A>227}</SPAN>through it, we retired to rest, with sensations very +different from those with which we had risen in the morning. The +weather had been generally cloudy throughout the day, and when the sun +was obscured, extremely cold for the season. At noon I obtained a +meridian altitude, which gave 52. 58. 58. North latitude. I likewise +took time in the after-noon.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 14.</i>—This morning we had a bright sun, with an East wind. +These people examined their fishing machines, when they found in them a +great number of small fish, and we dressed as many of them as we could +eat. Thus was our departure retarded until seven, when we proceeded on +our journey, accompanied by the man and his two sons. As I did not want +the younger, and should be obliged to feed him, I requested of his +father to leave him, for the purpose of fishing for the women. He +replied, that they were accustomed to fish for themselves, and that I +need not be apprehensive of their encroaching upon my provisions, as +they were used to sustain themselves in their journies on herbs, and the +inner tegument of the bark of trees, for the stripping of which he had a +thin piece of bone, then hanging by his side. The latter is of +glutinous quality, of a clammy, sweet taste, and is generally considered +by the more interior Indians as a delicacy, rather than an <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p228"></A>228}</SPAN>article of +common food. Our guide informed me that there is a short cut across the +mountains, but as there was no trace of a road, and it would shorten our +journey but one day, he should prefer the beaten way.</p> + +<p>We accordingly proceeded along a lake, West five miles. We then crossed +a small river, and passed through a swamp, about South-West, when we +began gradually to ascend for some time till we gained the summit of a +hill, where we had an extensive view to the South-East, from which +direction a considerable river appeared to flow, at the distance of +about three miles: it was represented to me as being navigable for +canoes. The descent of this hill was more steep than its ascent, and +was succeeded by another, whose top, though not so elevated as the last, +afforded a view of the range of mountains, covered with snow, which, +according to the intelligence of our guide, terminates in the ocean. We +now left a small lake on our left, then crossed a creek running out of +it, and at one in the afternoon came to a house, of the same +construction and dimensions as have already been mentioned, but the +materials were much better prepared and finished. The timber was +squared on two sides, and the bark taken off the two others; the ridge +pole was also shaped in the same manner, extending about eight or ten +feet beyond the gable end, and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p229"></A>229}</SPAN>supporting a shed over the door: the end +of it was carved into the similitude of a snake's head. Several +hieroglyphics and figures of a similar workmanship, and painted with red +earth, decorated the interior of the building. The inhabitants had left +the house but a short time, and there were several bags or bundles in +it, which I did not suffer to be disturbed. Near it were two tombs, +surrounded in a neat manner with boards, and covered with bark. Beside +them several poles had been erected, one of which was squared, and all +of them painted. From each of them were suspended several rolls or +parcels of bark, and our guide gave the following account of them; +which, as far as we could judge, from our imperfect knowledge of the +language, and the incidental errors of interpretation, appeared to +involve two different modes of treating their dead; or it might be one +and the same ceremony, which we did not distinctly comprehend: at all +events, it is the practice of these people to burn the bodies of their +dead, except the larger bones, which are rolled up in bark and suspended +from poles, as I have already described. According to the other +account, it appeared that they actually bury their dead; and when +another of the family dies, the remains of the person who was last +interred are taken from the grave and burned, has been already +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p230"></A>230}</SPAN>mentioned; so that the members of a family are thus successively buried +and burned, to make room for each other; and one tomb proves sufficient +for a family through succeeding generations. There is no house in this +country without a tomb in its vicinity. Our last course extended about +ten miles.</p> + +<p>We continued our journey along the lake before the house, and, crossing +a river that flowed out of it, came to a kind of bank, or weir, formed +by the natives, for the purpose of placing their fishing machines, many +of which of different sizes, were lying on the side of the river. Our +guide placed one of them, with the certain expectation that on his +return he should find plenty of fish in it. We proceeded nine miles +further, on a good road, West-South-West, when we came to a small lake: +we then crossed a river that ran out of it, and our guides were in +continual expectation of meeting with some of the natives. To this +place our course was a mile and a half, in the same direction as the +last. At nine at night we crossed a river on rafts, our last distance +being about four miles South-East, on a winding road, through a swampy +country, and along a succession of small lakes. We were now quite +exhausted, and it was absolutely necessary for us to stop for the night. +The weather being clear throughout the day, we had no reason to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p231"></A>231}</SPAN>complain +of the cold. Our guides encouraged us with the hope that, in two days +of similar exertion, we should arrive among people of the other nation.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 15.</i>—At five this morning we were again in motion, and +passing along a river, we at length forded it. This stream was not more +than knee deep, about thirty yards over, and with a stony bottom. The +old man went onward by himself, in the hope of falling in with the +people, whom he expected to meet in the course of the day. At eleven we +came up with him, and the natives whom he expected, consisting of five +men, and part of their families. They received us with great kindness, +and examined us with the most minute attention. They must, however, +have been told that we were white, as our faces no longer indicated that +distinguishing complexion. They called themselves Neguia Dinais, and +were come in a different direction from us, but were now going the same +way, to the Anah-yoe Tesse or River, and appeared to be very much +satisfied with our having joined them. They presented us with some fish +which they had just taken in the adjoining lake.</p> + +<p>Here I expected that our guides, like their predecessors, would have +quitted us, but, on the contrary, they expressed themselves to be so +happy, in our company, and that of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p232"></A>232}</SPAN>their friends, that they voluntarily, +and with great cheerfulness proceeded to pass another night with us. +Our new acquaintance were people of a very pleasing aspect. The hair of +the women was tied in large loose knots over the ears, and plaited with +great neatness from the division of the head, so as to be included in +the knots. Some of them had adorned their tresses with beads, with a +very pretty effect. The men were clothed in leather, their hair was +nicely combed, and their complexion was fairer, or perhaps it may be +said, with more propriety, that they were more cleanly, than any of the +natives whom we had yet seen. Their eyes, though keen and sharp, are +not of that dark colour, so generally observable in the various tribes +of Indians; they were, on the contrary, of a grey hue, with a tinge of +red. There was one man amongst them of at least six feet four inches in +height; his manners were affable, and he had a more prepossessing +appearance than any Indian I had met with in my journey; he was about +twenty-eight years of age, and was treated with particular respect by +his party. Every man, woman, and child carried a proportionate burden, +consisting of beaver coating, and parchment, as well as skins of the +otter, the marten, the bear, the lynx, and dressed moose-skins. The +last they procure from the Rocky-Mountain <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p233"></A>233}</SPAN>Indians. +According to their account, the people of the sea coast prefer them to +any other article. Several of their relations and friends, they said, +were already gone, as well provided as themselves, to barter with the +people of the coast; who barter them in their turn, except the dressed +leather, with white people, who, as they had been informed, arrive there +in large canoes.</p> + +<p>Such an escort was the most fortunate circumstance that could happen in +our favour. They told us, that as the women and children could not +travel fast, we should be three days in getting to the end of our +journey; which must be supposed to have been very agreeable infomation +to people in our exhausted condition.</p> + +<p>In about half an hour after we had joined our new acquaintance, the +signal for moving onwards was given by the leader of the party, who +vociferated, the words Huy, Huy, when his people joined him and +continued a clamorous conversation. We passed along a winding road, +over hills, and through swampy vallies, from South to West. We then +crossed a deep, narrow river, which discharges itself into a lake, on +whose side we stopped at five in the afternoon, for the night, though we +had reposed several times since twelve at noon; so that our mode of +travelling had undergone a very agreeable change. I compute <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p234"></A>234}</SPAN>the +distance of this day's journey at about twenty miles. In the middle of +the day the weather was clear and sultry.</p> + +<p>We all sat down on a very pleasant green spot, and were no sooner +seated, than our guide and one of the party prepared to engage in play. +They had each a bundle of about fifty small sticks, neatly polished, of +the size of a quill, and five inches long: a certain number of these +sticks had red lines round them; and as many of these as one of the +players might find convenient were curiously rolled up in dry grass, and +according to the judgment of his antagonist respecting their number and +marks, he lost or won. Our friend was apparently the loser, as he +parted with his bow and arrows, and several articles which I had given +him.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 16.</i>—The weather of this morning was the same as yesterday; +but our fellow-travellers were in no hurry to proceed, and I was under +the necessity of pressing them into greater expedition, by representing +the almost exhausted state of our provisions. They, however, assured +us, that after the next night's sleep we should arrive at the river +where they were going and that we should there get fish in great +abundance. My young men, from an act of imprudence, deprived themselves +last night of that rest <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p235"></A>235}</SPAN>which was so necessary to them. One of the +strangers asking them several questions respecting us, and concerning +their own country, one of them gave such answers as were not credited by +the audience; whereupon he demanded, in a very angry tone, if they +thought he was disposed to tell lies, like the Rocky Mountain Indians; +and one of that tribe happening to be of the party, a quarrel ensued, +which might have been attended with the most serious consequences, if it +had not been fortunately prevented by the interference of those who were +not interested in the dispute.</p> + +<p>Though our stock of provisions was getting so low, I determined, +nevertheless, to hide about twenty pounds of pemmican, by way of +providing against our return. I therefore left two of the men behind, +with directions to bury it, as usual, under the place where we had made +our fire.</p> + +<p>Our course was about West-South-West by the side of the lake, and in +about two miles we came to the end of it. Here was a general halt, when +my men overtook us. I was now informed, that some people of another +tribe were sent for, who wished very much to see us, two of whom would +accompany us over the mountains; that, as for themselves, they had +changed their mind, and intended to follow a small river which issued +out of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p236"></A>236}</SPAN>the lake, and went in a direction very different from the line of +our journey. This was a disappointment, which, though not uncommon to +us, might have been followed by considerable inconveniences. It was my +wish to continue with them whatever way they went; but neither my +promises or entreaties would avail; these people were not to be turned +from their purpose; and when I represented the low state of our +provisions, one of them answered, that if we would stay with them all +night, he would boil a kettle of fish-roes for us. Accordingly, without +receiving any answer, he began to make preparation to fulfil his +engagement. He took the roes out of a bag, and having bruised them +between two stones, put them in water to soak. His wife then took an +handful of dry grass in her hand, with which she squeezed them through +her fingers; in the mean time her husband was employed in gathering wood +to make a fire, for the purpose of heating stones. When she had +finished her operation, she filled a water kettle nearly full of water, +and poured the roes into it. When the stones were sufficiently heated, +some of them were put into the kettle, and others were thrown in from +time to time, till the water was in a state of boiling; the woman also +continued stirring the contents of the kettle, till they were brought to +a thick consistency; the stones <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p237"></A>237}</SPAN>were then taken out, and the whole was +seasoned with about a pint of strong rancid oil. The smell of this +curious dish was sufficient to sicken me without tasting it, but the +hunger of my people surmounted the nauseous meal. When unadulterated by +the stinking oil, these boiled roes are not unpalatable food.</p> + +<p>In the mean time four of the people who had been expected, arrived, and, +according to the account given of them, were of two tribes whom I had +not yet known. After some conversation, they proposed, that I should +continue my route by their houses; but the old guide, who was now +preparing to leave us, informed me that it would lengthen my journey; +and by his advice I proposed to them to conduct us along the road which +had already been marked out to us. This they undertook without the +least hesitation; and, at the same time, pointed out to me the pass in +the mountain, bearing South by East by compass. Here I had a meridian +altitude, and took time.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon we parted with our late fellow-travellers in a +very friendly manner, and immediately forded the river. The wild +parsnip, which luxuriates on the borders of the lakes and rivers, is a +favourite food of the natives: they roast the tops of this plant, in +their tender state, over the fire, and taking <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p238"></A>238}</SPAN>off the outer rind, they +are then a very palatable food.</p> + +<p>We now entered the woods, and some time after arrived on the banks of +another river that flowed from the mountain, which we also forded. The +country soon after we left the river was swampy; and the fire having +passed through it, the number of trees, which had fallen, added to the +toil of our journey. In a short time we began to ascend, and continued +ascending till nine at night. We walked upwards of fourteen miles, +according to my computation, in the course of the day, though the strait +line of distance might not be more than ten. Notwithstanding that we +were surrounded by mountains covered with snow, we were very much +tormented with musquitoes.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 17.</i>—Before the sun rose, our guides summoned us to +proceed, when we descended into a beautiful valley, watered by a small +river. At eight we came to the termination of it, where we saw a great +number of moles, and began again to ascend. We now perceived many +ground-hogs, and heard them whistle in every direction. The Indians +went in pursuit of them, and soon joined us with a female and her +litter, almost grown to their full size. They stripped off their skins, +and gave the carcases to my people. They also pulled up a root, which +appeared like a bunch <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p239"></A>239}</SPAN>of white berries of the size of a pea; its shape +was that of a fig, while it had the colour and taste of a potatoe.</p> + +<p>We now gained the summit of the mountain, and found ourselves surrounded +by snow. But this circumstance is caused rather by the quantity of snow +drifted in the pass, than the real height of the spot, as the +surrounding mountains rise to a much higher degree of elevation. The +snow had become so compact that our feet hardly made a perceptible +impression on it. We observed, however, the tracks of an herd of small +deer which must have passed a short time before us, and the Indians and +my hunters went immediately in pursuit of them. Our way was now nearly +level, without the least snow, and not a tree to be seen in any part of +it. The grass is very short, and the soil a reddish clay, intermixed +with small stones. The face of the hills, where they are not enlivened +with verdure, appears, at a distance, as if fire had passed over them. +It now began to hail, snow, and rain, nor could we find any shelter but +the leeward side of an huge rock. The wind also rose into a tempest, +and the weather was as distressing as any I had ever experienced. After +an absence of an hour and a half, our hunters brought a small doe of the +rein-deer species, which was all they had killed, though they fired +twelve shots at a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p240"></A>240}</SPAN>large herd of them. Their ill success they attributed +to the weather. I proposed to leave half of the venison in the snow, +but the men preferred carrying it, though their strength was very much +exhausted. We had been so long shivering with cold in this situation +that we were glad to renew our march. Here and there were scattered a +few crow-berry bushes and stinted willows; the former of which had not +yet blossomed.</p> + +<p>Before us appeared a stupendous mountain, whose snow-clad summit was +lost in the clouds; between it and our immediate course, flowed the +river to which we were going. The Indians informed us that it was at no +great distance. As soon as we could gather a sufficient quantity of +wood, we stopped to dress some of our venison; and it is almost +superfluous to add, that we made an heartier meal than we had done for +many a day before. To the comfort which I have just mentioned, I added +that of taking off my beard, as well as changing my linen, and my people +followed the humanising example. We then set forwards, and came to a +large pond, on whose bank we found a tomb, but lately made, with a pole, +as usual, erected beside it, on which two figures of birds were painted, +and by them the guides distinguished the tribe to which the deceased +person belonged. One of them, very unceremoniously, opened the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p241"></A>241}</SPAN>bark and +shewed us the bones which it contained, while the other threw down the +pole, and having possessed himself of the feathers that were tied to it, +fixed them on his own head. I therefore conjectured, that these funeral +memorials belonged to an individual of a tribe at enmity with them.</p> + +<p>We continued our route with a considerable degree of expedition, and as +we proceeded the mountains appeared to withdraw from us. The country +between them soon opened to our view, which apparently added to their +awful elevation. We continued to descend till we came to the brink of a +precipice, from whence our guides discovered the river to us, and a +village on its banks. This precipice, or rather succession of +precipices, is covered with large timber, which consists of the pine, +the spruce, the hemlock, the birch, and other trees. Our conductors +informed us, that it abounded in animals, which, from their description, +must be wild goats. In about two hours we arrived at the bottom, where +there is a conflux of two rivers, that issue from the mountains. We +crossed the one which was to the left. They are both very rapid, and +continue so till they unite their currents, forming a stream of about +twelve yards in breadth. Here the timber was also very large; but I +could not learn from our conductors why the most considerable hemlock +trees <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p242"></A>242}</SPAN>were stripped of their bark to the tops of them. I concluded, +indeed, at that time that the inhabitants tanned their leather with it. +Here were also the largest and loftiest elder and cedar trees that I had +ever seen. We were now sensible of an entire change in the climate, and +the berries were quite ripe.</p> + +<p>The sun was about to set, when our conductors left us to follow them as +well as we could. We were prevented, however, from going far astray, +for we were hemmed in on both sides and behind by such a barrier as +nature never before presented to my view. Our guides had the precaution +to mark the road for us, by breaking the branches of trees as they +passed. This small river must, at certain seasons, rise to an uncommon +height and strength of current most probably on the melting of the snow; +as we saw a large quantity of drift wood lying twelve feet above the +immediate level of the river. This circumstance impeded our progress, +and the protruding rocks frequently forced us to pass through the water. +It was now dark, without the least appearance of houses, though it would +be impossible to have seen them, if there had been any, at the distance +of twenty yards, from the thickness of the woods. My men were anxious +to stop for the night; indeed the fatigue they had suffered justified +the proposal, and I left them to their choice; <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p243"></A>243}</SPAN>but as the anxiety of my +mind impelled me forwards, they continued to follow me, till I found +myself at the edge of the woods; and, notwithstanding the remonstrances +that were made, I proceeded, feeling rather than seeing my way, till I +arrived at a house, and soon discovered several fires, in small huts, +with people busily employed in cooking their fish. I walked into one of +them without the least ceremony, threw down my burden, and, after +shaking hands with some of the people, sat down upon it. They received +me without the least appearance of surprize, but soon made signs for me +to go up to the large house, which was erected, on upright posts, at +some distance from the ground. A broad piece of timber with steps cut +in it, led to the scaffolding even with the floor, and by this curious +kind of ladder I entered the house at one end; and having passed three +fires, at equal distances in the middle of the building, I was received +by several people, sitting upon a very wide board, at the upper end of +it. I shook hands with them, and seated myself beside a man, the +dignity of whose countenance induced me to give him that preference. I +soon discovered one of my guides seated a little above me, with a neat +mat spread before him, which I supposed to be the place of honour, and +appropriated to strangers.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p244"></A>244}</SPAN>In a short time my people arrived, and placed themselves near me, when +the man, by whom I sat, immediately rose, and fetched, from behind a +plank of about four feet wide, a quantity of roasted salmon. He then +directed a mat to be placed before me and Mr. Mackay, who was now +sitting by me. When this ceremony was performed, he brought a salmon +for each of us, and half an one to each of my men. The same plank also +served as a screen for the beds, whither the women and children were +already retired; but whether that circumstances took place on our +arrival, or was the natural consequence of the late hour of the night, I +did not discover. The signs of our protector seemed to denote that we +might sleep in the house, but as we did not understand him with a +sufficient degree of certainty, I thought it prudent, from the fear of +giving offence, to order the men to make a fire without, that we might +sleep by it. When he observed our design, he placed boards for us, that +we might not take our repose on the bare ground, and ordered a fire to +be prepared for us. We had not been long seated round it, when we +received a large dish of salmon roes, pounded fine and beat up with +water, so as to have the appearance of a cream. Nor was it without some +kind of seasoning that gave it a bitter taste. Another dish soon +followed, the principal <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p245"></A>245}</SPAN>article of which was also salmon roes, with a +large proportion of gooseberries, and an herb that appeared to be +sorrel. Its acidity rendered it more agreeable to my taste than the +former preparation. Having been regaled with these delicacies, for such +they were considered by that hospitable spirit which provided them, we +laid ourselves down to rest, with no other canopy than the sky; but I +never enjoyed a more sound and refreshing rest, though I had a board for +my bed, and a billet for my pillow.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 18.</i>—At five this morning I awoke, and found that the +natives had lighted a fire for us, and were sitting by it. My +hospitable friend immediately brought me some berries and roasted +salmon, and his companions soon followed his example. The former, which +consisted among many others, of gooseberries, hurtleberries, and +raspberries, were of the finest I ever saw or tasted, of their +respective kinds. They also brought the dried roes of fish to eat with +the berries.</p> + +<p>Salmon is so abundant in this river, that these people +have a constant and plentiful supply of that excellent fish. To take +them with more facility, they had, with great labour, formed an +embankment or weir across the river, for the purpose of placing their +fishing machines, which they disposed both above and below it. I +expressed my wish to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p246"></A>246}</SPAN>visit this extraordinary work, but these people are +so superstitious, that they would not allow me a nearer examination than +I could obtain by viewing it from the bank. The river is about fifty +yards in breadth, and by observing a man fish with a dipping net, I +judged it to be about ten feet deep at the foot of the fall. The weir +is a work of great labour, and contrived with considerable ingenuity. +It was near four feet above the level of the water, at the time I saw +it, and nearly the height of the bank on which I stood to examine it. +The stream is stopped nearly two-thirds by it. It is constructed by +fixing small trees in the bed of the river, in a slanting position +(which could be practicable only when the water is much lower than when +I saw it) with the thick part downwards; over these is laid a bed of +gravel, on which is placed a range of lesser trees, and so on +alternately till the work is brought to its proper height. Beneath it +the machines are placed, into which the salmon fall when they attempt to +leap over. On either side there is a large frame of timber-work, six +feet above the level of the upper water, in which passages are left for +the salmon leading directly into the machines, which are taken up at +pleasure. At the foot of the fall dipping nets are also successfully +employed.</p> + +<p>The water of this river is of the colour of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p247"></A>247}</SPAN>asses' milk, +which I attributed in part to the limestone that in many places forms +the bed of the river, but principally to the rivulets which fall from +mountains of the same material.</p> + +<p>These people indulge an extreme superstition respecting their fish, as +it is apparently their only animal food. Flesh they never taste, and +one of their dogs having picked and swallowed part of a bone which we +had left, was beaten by his master till he disgorged it. One of my +people also having thrown a bone of the deer into the river, a native, +who had observed the circumstance, immediately dived and brought it up, +and, having consigned it to the fire, instantly proceeded to wash his +polluted hands.</p> + +<p>As we were still at some distance from the sea, I made application to my +friend to procure us a canoe or two, with people to conduct us thither. +After he had made various excuses, I at length comprehended that his +only objection was to the embarking venison in a canoe on their river, +as the fish would instantly smell it and abandon them, so that he, his +friends, and relations, must starve. I soon eased his apprehensions on +that point, and desired to know what I must do with the venison that +remained, when he told me to give it to one of the strangers whom he +pointed out to me, as being of a tribe that eat <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p248"></A>248}</SPAN>flesh. I now requested +him to furnish me with some fresh salmon in its raw state; but, instead +of complying with my wish, he brought me a couple of them roasted, +observing at the same time, that the current was very strong, and would +bring us to the next village, where our wants would be abundantly +supplied, In short, he requested that we would make haste to depart. +This was rather unexpected after so much kindness and hospitality, but +our ignorance of the language prevented us from being able to discover +the cause.</p> + +<p>At eight this morning, fifteen men armed, the friends and relations of +these people, arrived by land, in consequence of notice sent them in the +night, immediately after the appearance of our guides. They are more +corpulent and of a better appearance than the inhabitants of the +interior. Their language totally different from any I had heard; the +Atnah or Chin tribe, as far as I can judge from the very little I saw of +that people, bear the nearest resemblance to them. They appear to be of +a quiet and peaceable character, and never make any hostile incursions +into the lands of their neighbours.</p> + +<p>Their dress consists of a single +robe tied over the shoulders, falling down behind, to the heels, and +before, a little below the knees, with a deep fringe round the bottom. +It is <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p249"></A>249}</SPAN>generally made of the bark of the cedar tree, which they prepare +as fine as hemp; though some of these garments are interwoven with +strips of the sea-otter skin, which give them the appearance of a fur on +one side. Others have stripes of red and yellow threads fancifully +introduced toward the borders, which have a very agreeable effect. The +men have no other covering than that which I have described, and they +unceremoniously lay it aside when they find it convenient. In addition +to this robe, the women wear a close fringe hanging down before them +about two feet in length, and half as wide. When they sit down they +draw this between their thighs. They wear their hair so short, that it +requires: little care or combing. The men have their's in plaits, and +being smeared with oil and red earth, instead of a comb they have a +small stick hanging by a string from one of the locks, which they employ +to alleviate any itching or irritation in the head. The colour of the +eye is grey with a tinge of red. They have all high cheek-bones, but +the women are more remarkable for that feature than the men. Their +houses, arms, and utensils I shall describe hereafter.</p> + +<p>I presented my friend with several articles, and also distributed some +among others of the natives who had been attentive to us. One of my +guides had been very serviceable <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p250"></A>250}</SPAN>in procuring canoes for us to proceed +on our expedition; he appeared also to be very desirous of giving these +people a favourable impression of us; and I was very much concerned that +he should leave me as he did, without giving me the least notice of his +departure, or receiving the presents which I had prepared for him, and he +so well deserved. At noon I had an observation which gave 52. 28. 11. +North latitude.</p> + + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p251"></A>251}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter9" href="#toc_chapter9"> CHAPTER IX.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JULY, 1793.</p> + + +<p>At one in the afternoon we embarked, with our small baggage, in two +canoes, accompanied by seven of the natives, The stream was rapid, and +ran upwards of six miles an hour. We came to a weir, such as I have +already described, where the natives landed us, and shot over it without +taking a drop of water. They then received us on board again, and we +continued our voyage, passing many canoes on the river, some with people +in them, and others empty. We proceeded at a very great rate for about +two hours and a half, when we were informed that we must land, as the +village was only at a short distance. I had imagined that the Canadians +who accompanied me were the most expert canoe-men in the world, but they +are very inferior to these people, as they themselves acknowledged, in +conducting those vessels.</p> + +<p>Some of the Indians ran before us, to announce our approach, when we +took our bundles and followed. We had walked along a well-beaten path, +through a kind of coppice, when we were informed of the arrival of our +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p252"></A>252}</SPAN>couriers at the houses, by the loud and confused talking of the +inhabitants. As we approached the edge of the wood, and were almost in +sight of the houses, the Indians who were before me made signs for me to +take the lead, and that they would follow. The noise and confusion of +the natives now seemed to encrease, and when we came in sight of the +village, we saw them running from house to house, some armed with bows +and arrows, others with spears, and many with axes, as if in a state of +great alarm, This very unpleasant and unexpected circumstance, I +attributed to our sudden arrival, and the very short notice of it which +had been given them. At all events, I had but one line of conduct to +pursue, which was to walk resolutely up to them, without manifesting any +signs of apprehension at their hostile appearance. This resolution +produced the desired effect, for as we approached the houses, the +greater part of the people laid down their weapons, and came forward to +meet us. I was, however, soon obliged to stop from the number of them +that surrounded me. I shook hands, as usual with such as were nearest +to me, when an elderly man broke through the crowd, and took me in his +arms; another then came, who turned him away without the least ceremony, +and paid me the same compliment. The latter was <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p253"></A>253}</SPAN>followed by a young +man, whom I understood to be his son. These embraces, which at first +rather surprised me, I soon found to be marks of regard and friendship. +The crowd pressed with so much violence and contention to get a view of +us, that we could not move in any direction. An opening was at length +made to allow a person to approach me, whom the old man made me +understand was another of his sons. I instantly stepped forward to meet +him, and presented my hand, whereupon he broke the string of a very +handsome robe of sea otter skin, which he had on, and covered me with +it. This was as flattering a reception as I could possibly receive, +especially as I considered him to be the eldest son of the chief. +Indeed, it appeared to me that we had been detained here for the purpose +of giving him time to bring the robe with which he had presented me.</p> + +<p>The chief now made signs for us to follow him, and he conducted us +through a narrow coppice, for several hundred yards, till we came to a +house built on the ground, which was of larger dimensions, and formed of +better materials than any I had hitherto seen; it was his residence. We +were no sooner arrived there, than he directed mats to be spread before +it, on which we were told to take our seats, when the men of the +village, who came to indulge their curiosity, were <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p254"></A>254}</SPAN>ordered to keep +behind us. In our front other mats were placed, where the chief and his +counsellors took their seats. In the intervening space, mats, which +were very clean, and of a much neater workmanship than those on which we +sat, were also spread, and a small roasted salmon placed before each of +us. When we had satisfied ourselves with the fish, one of the people +who came with us from the last village approached, with a kind of ladle +in one hand, containing oil, and in the other something that resembled +the inner rind of the cocoa-nut, but of a lighter colour, this he dipped +in the oil, and, having eat it, indicated by his gestures how palatable +he thought it. He then presented me with a small piece of it, which I +chose to taste in its dry state, though the oil was free from any +unpleasant smell. A square cake of this was next produced, when a man +took it to the water near the house, and having thoroughly soaked it, he +returned, and, after he had pulled it to pieces like oakum, put it into +a well-made trough, about three feet long, nine inches wide, and five +deep; he then plentifully sprinkled it with salmon oil, and manifested +by his own example that we were to eat of it. I just tasted it, and +found the oil perfectly sweet, without which the other ingredient would +have been very insipid. The chief partook of it with great avidity, +after it had <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p255"></A>255}</SPAN>received an additional quantity of oil. This dish is +considered by these people as a great delicacy, and on examination, I +discovered it to consist of the inner rind of the hemlock tree, taken +off early in summer, and put into a frame, which shapes it into cakes of +fifteen inches long, ten broad, and half an inch thick; and in this form +I should suppose it may be preserved for a great length of time. This +discovery satisfied me respecting the many hemlock trees which I had +observed stripped of their bark.</p> + +<p>In this situation we remained for upwards of three hours, and not one of +the curious natives left us during all that time, except a party of ten +or twelve of them, whom the chief ordered to go and catch fish, which +they did in great abundance, with dipping nets, at the foot of the Weir.</p> + +<p>At length we were relieved from the gazing crowd, and got a lodge +erected, and covered in for our reception during the night. I now +presented the young chief with a blanket, in return for the robe with +which he had favoured me, and several other articles, that appeared to +be very gratifying to him. I also presented some to his father, and +amongst them was a pair of scissors, whose use I explained to him, for +clipping his beard, which was of great length; and to that purpose he +immediately applied them. My distribution <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p256"></A>256}</SPAN>of similar articles was also +extended to others, who had been attentive to us. The communication, +however, between us was awkward and inconvenient, for it was carried on +entirely by signs, as there was not a person with me who was qualified +for the office of an interpreter.</p> + +<p>We were all of us very desirous to get some fresh salmon, that we might +dress them in our own way, but could not by any means obtain that +gratification, though there were thousands of that fish strung on cords, +which were fastened to stakes in the river. They were even averse to +our approaching the spot where they clean and prepare them for their own +eating. They had, indeed, taken our kettle from us, lest we should +employ it in getting water from the river; and they assigned as the +reason for this precaution, that the salmon dislike the smell of iron. +At the same time, they supplied us with wooden boxes, which were capable +of holding any fluid. Two of the men who went to fish, in a canoe +capable of containing ten people, returned with a full lading of salmon, +that weighed from six to forty pounds, though the far greater part of +them were under twenty. They immediately strung the whole of them, as I +have already mentioned, in the river.</p> + +<p>I now made the tour of the village, which consisted of four elevated +houses, and seven <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p257"></A>257}</SPAN>built on the ground, besides a considerable number of +other buildings or sheds, which are used only as kitchens, and places +for curing their fish. The former are constructed by fixing a certain +number of posts in the earth, on some of which are laid, and to others +are fastened, the supporters of the floor, at about twelve feet above +the surface of the ground; their length is from a hundred to a hundred +and twenty feet, and they are about forty in breadth. Along the centre +are built three, four, or five hearths, for the two-fold purpose of +giving warmth, and dressing their fish. The whole length of the +building on either side is divided by cedar planks, into partitions or +apartments of seven feet square, in the front of which there are boards, +about three feet wide, over which, though they are not immovably fixed, +the inmates of these recesses generally pass, when they go to rest. The +greater part of them are intended for that purpose, and such are covered +with boards, at the height of the wall of the house, which is about +seven or eight feet, and rest upon beams that stretch across the +building. On those also are placed the chests which contain their +provisions, utensils, and whatever they possess. The intermediate space +is sufficient for domestic purposes. On poles that run along the beams, +hang roasted fish, and the whole <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p258"></A>258}</SPAN>building is well covered with boards +and bark, except within a few inches of the ridge pole; where open +spaces are left on each side to let in light and emit the smoke. At the +end of the house that fronts the river, is a narrow scaffolding, which +is also ascended by a piece of timber, with steps cut in it; and at each +corner of this erection there are openings for the inhabitants to ease +nature. As it does not appear to be a custom among them to remove these +heaps of excremental filth, it may be supposed that the effluvia does +not annoy them.</p> + +<p>The houses which rest on the ground are built of the same materials, and +on the same plan. A sloping stage that rises to a cross piece of +timber, supported by two forks, joins also to the main building, for +those purposes which need not be repeated.</p> + +<p>When we were surrounded by the natives on our arrival, I counted +sixty-five men, and several of them may be supposed to have been absent; +I cannot, therefore, calculate the inhabitants of this village at less +than two hundred souls.</p> + +<p>The people who accompanied us hither, from the other village, had given +the chief a very particular account of everything they knew concerning +us: I was, therefore, requested to produce my astronomical instruments, +nor could I have any objection to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p259"></A>259}</SPAN>afford them this satisfaction, as they +would necessarily add to our importance in their opinion.</p> + +<p>Near the house of the chief I observed several oblong squares, of about +twenty feet by eight. They were made of thick cedar boards, which were +joined with so much neatness, that I at first thought they were one +piece. They were painted with hieroglyphics, and figures of different +animals, and with a degree of correctness that was not to be expected +from such an uncultivated people. I could not learn the use of them, +but they appeared to be calculated for occasional acts of devotion or +sacrifice, which all these tribes perform at least twice in the year, at +the spring and fall. I was confirmed in this opinion by a large +building in the middle of the village, which I at first took for the +half finished frame of a house. The groundplot of it was fifty feet by +forty-five; each end is formed by four stout posts, fixed +perpendicularly in the ground. The corner ones are plain, and support a +beam of the whole length, having three intermediate props on each side, +but of a larger size, and eight or nine feet in height. The two centre +posts, at each end, are two feet and a half in diameter, and carved into +human figures, supporting two ridge poles on their heads, at twelve feet +from the ground. The figures at the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p260"></A>260}</SPAN>upper part of this square represent +two persons, with their hands upon their knees, as if they supported the +weight with pain and difficulty; the others opposite to them stand at +their ease, with their hands resting on their hips. In the area of the +building there were the remains of several fires. The posts, poles, and +figures, were painted red and black; but the sculpture of these people +is superior to their painting.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 19.</i>—Soon after I retired to rest last night, the chief paid +me a visit to insist on my going to his bed-companion, and taking my +place himself; but, notwithstanding his repeated entreaties, I resisted +this offering of his hospitality.</p> + +<p>At an early hour this morning, I was again visited by the chief, in +company with his son. The former complained of a pain in his breast; to +relieve his suffering, I gave him a few drops of Turlington's Balsam on +a piece of sugar; and I was rather surprised to see him take it without +the least hesitation. When he had taken my medicine, he requested me to +follow him, and conducted me to a shed, where several people were +assembled round a sick man, who was another of his sons. They +immediately uncovered him, and showed me a violent ulcer in the small of +his back, in the foulest state that can be imagined. One of his knees +was also afflicted in the same <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p261"></A>261}</SPAN>manner. This unhappy man was reduced to +a skeleton, and, from his appearance, was drawing near to an end of his +pains. They requested that I would touch him, and his father was very +urgent with me to administer medicine; but he was in such a dangerous +state, that I thought it prudent to yield no further to the +importunities than to give the sick man a few drops of Turlington's +Balsam in some water. I therefore left them, but was soon called back +by the loud lamentations of the women, and was rather apprehensive that +some inconvenience might result from my compliance with the chief's +request. On my return I found the native physicians busy in practising +their skill and art on the patient. They blew on him, and then +whistled; at times they pressed their extended fingers, with all their +strength, on his stomach; they also put their forefingers doubled into +his mouth, and spouted water from their own with great violence into his +face. To support these operations, the wretched sufferer was held up in +a sitting posture; and when they were concluded, he was laid down and +covered with a new robe made of the skins of the lynx. I had observed +that his belly and breast were covered with scars, and I understood that +they were caused by a custom prevalent among them, of applying pieces of +lighted touch-wood to their flesh, in order to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p262"></A>262}</SPAN>relieve pain or +demonstrate their courage. He was now placed on a broad plank, and +carried by six men into the woods, where I was invited to accompany +them. I could not conjecture what would be the end of this ceremony, +particularly as I saw one man carry fire, another an axe, and a third +dry wood. I was indeed, disposed to suspect that, as it was their +custom to burn the dead, they intended to relieve the poor man from his +pain, and perform the last sad duty of surviving affection. When they +advanced a short distance into the woods, they laid him upon a clear +spot, and kindled a fire against his back, when the physician began to +scarify the ulcer with a very blunt instrument, the cruel pain of which +operation the patient bore with incredible resolution. The scene +afflicted me, and I left it.</p> + +<p>On my return to our lodge, I observed before the door of the chief's +residence, four heaps of salmon, each of which consisted of between +three and four hundred fish. Sixteen women were employed in cleaning +and preparing them. They first separate the head from the body, the +former of which they boil; they then cut the latter down the back on +each side of the bone, leaving one third of the fish adhering to it, and +afterwards take out the guts. The bone is roasted for immediate use, +and the other parts are dressed <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p263"></A>263}</SPAN>in the same manner, but with more +attention, for future provision. While they are before the fire, +troughs are placed under them to receive the oil. The roes are also +carefully preserved, and form a favourite article of their food.</p> + +<p>After I had observed these culinary preparations, I paid a visit to the +chief, who presented me with a roasted salmon; he then opened one of his +chests, and took out of it a garment of blue cloth, decorated with brass +buttons; and another of flowered cotton, which I supposed were Spanish; +it had been trimmed with leather fringe, after the fashion of their own +cloaks. Copper and brass are in great estimation among them, and of the +former they have great plenty: they point their arrows and spears with +it, and work it up into personal ornaments; such as collars, ear-rings, +and bracelets, which they wear on their wrists, arms, and legs. I +presume they find it the most advantageous articles of trade with the +more inland tribes. They also abound in iron. I saw some of their +twisted collars of that metal which weighed upwards of twelve pounds. +It is generally beat in bars of fourteen inches in length, and one inch +three quarters wide. The brass is in thin squares: their copper is in +larger pieces, and some of it appeared to be old stills cut up. They +have various <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p264"></A>264}</SPAN>trinkets; but their manufactured iron consists only of +poignards and daggers. Some of the former have very neat handles, with +a silver coin of a quarter or eighth of a dollar fixed on the end of +them.—The blades of the latter are from ten to twelve inches in +length, and about four inches broad at the top, from which they +gradually lessen to a point.</p> + +<p>When I produced my instruments to take an altitude, I was desired not to +make use of them. I could not then discover the cause of this request, +but I experienced the good effect of the apprehension, which they +occasioned, as it was very effectual in hastening my departure. I had +applied several times to the chief to prepare canoes and people to take +me and my party to the sea, but very little attention had been paid to +my application till noon; when I was informed that a canoe was properly +equipped for my voyage, and that the young chief would accompany me. I +now discovered that they had entertained no personal fear of the +instruments, but were apprehensive that the operation of them might +frighten the salmon from that part of the river. The observation taken +in this village gave me 52. 25. 52. North latitude.</p> + +<p>In compliance with the chief's request I desired my people to take their +bundles, and lay them down on the bank of the river. In <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p265"></A>265}</SPAN>the mean time I +went to take the dimensions of his large canoe, in which, it was +signified to me, that about ten winters ago he went a considerable +distance toward the mid-day sun, with forty of his people, when he saw +two large vessels full of such men as myself, by whom he was kindly +received: they were, he said, the first white people he had seen. They +were probably the ships commanded by Captain Cook. This canoe was built +of cedar, was forty-five feet long, four feet wide, and three feet and a +half in depth. It was painted black and decorated with white figures of +fish of different kinds. The gunwale, fore and aft, was inlaid with +the teeth of the sea-otter.<a name="v2-c9-hl1" href="#v2-c9-hr1">[1]</a></p> + +<p>When I returned to the river, the natives who were to accompany us and +my people, were already in the canoe. The latter, however, informed me, +that one of our axes was missing. I immediately applied to the chief, +and requested its restoration; but he would not understand me till I sat +myself down on a stone, with my arms in a state of preparation, and made +it appear to him that I should <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p266"></A>266}</SPAN>not depart till the stolen article was +restored. The village was immediately in a state of uproar, and some +danger was apprehended from the confusion that prevailed in it. The +axe, however, which had been hidden under the chief's canoe, was soon +returned. Though this instrument was not, in itself, of sufficient +value to justify a dispute with these people, I apprehended that the +suffering them to keep it, after we had declared its loss, might have +occasioned the loss of every thing we carried with us, and of our lives +also. My people were dissatisfied with me at the moment; but I thought +myself right then, and, I think now, that the circumstances in which we +were involved, justified the measure which I adopted.</p> + +<p><a name="v2-c9-hr1" href="#v2-c9-hl1">[1]</a> As Captain Cook has mentioned, that the people of the sea-coast +adorned their canoes with human teeth, I was more particular in my +inquiries; the result of which was, the most satisfactory proof that he +was mistaken; but his mistake arose from the very great resemblance +there is between human teeth and those of the sea-otter.</p> + + + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p267"></A>267}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter10" href="#toc_chapter10"> CHAPTER X.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JULY, 1793.</p> + +<p> <i>Saturday, 18.</i>—At one in the afternoon we renewed our voyage in a +large canoe with four of the natives. We found the river almost one +continued rapid, and in half an hour we came to a house, where, however, +we did not land, though invited by the inhabitants. In about an hour we +arrived at two houses, where we were, in some degree, obliged to go on +shore, as we were informed that the owner of them was a person of +consideration. He indeed received and regaled us in the same manner as +at the last village; and to increase his consequence, he produced many +European articles, and amongst them were at least forty pounds weight of +old copper stills. We made our stay as short as possible, and our host +embarked with us. In a very short time we were carried by the rapidity +of the current to another house of very large dimensions, which was +partitioned into different apartments, and whose doors were on the side. +The inhabitants received us with great kindness; but instead of fish, +they placed a long, clean, and well made trough before us full of +berries. In addition to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p268"></A>268}</SPAN>those which we had already seen, there were +some black, that were larger than the hurtleberry, and of a richer +flavour; others white, which resembled the blackberry in everything but +colour. Here we saw a woman with two pieces of copper in her under lip, +as described by Captain Cook. I continued my usual practice of making +these people presents in return for their friendly reception and +entertainment.</p> + +[Transcriber's Note: By context, the date above should read <i> Friday, 19.</i>] + +<p>The navigation of the river now became more difficult, from the numerous +channels into which it was divided, without any sensible diminution in +the velocity of its current. We soon reached another house of the +common size, where we were well received; but whether our guides had +informed them that we were not in want of anything, or that they were +deficient in inclination, or perhaps the means, of being hospitable to +us, they did not offer us any refreshment. They were in a state of busy +preparation. Some of the women were employed in beating and preparing +the inner rind of the cedar bark, to which they gave the appearance of +flax. Others were spinning with a distaff and spindle. One of them was +weaving a robe of it, intermixed with stripes of the sea-otter skin, on +a frame of adequate contrivance that was placed against the side of the +house. The men were fishing on the river with drag-nets between <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p269"></A>269}</SPAN>two +canoes. These nets are forced by poles to the bottom, the current +driving them before it; by which means the salmon coming up the river +are intercepted, and give notice of their being taken by the struggles +they make in the bag or sleeve of the net. There are no weirs in this +part of the river, as I suppose, from the numerous channels into which +it is divided. The machines, therefore, are placed along the banks, and +consequently these people are not so well supplied with fish as the +village which has been already described, nor do they appear to possess +the same industry. The inhabitants of the last house accompanied us in +a large canoe. They recommended us to leave ours here, as the next +village was but at a small distance from us, and the water more rapid +than that which we had passed. They informed us also, that we were +approaching a cascade. I directed them to shoot it, and proceeded +myself to the foot thereof, where I re-embarked, and we went on with +great velocity, till we came to a fall, where we left our canoe, and +carried our luggage along a road through a wood for some hundred yards, +when we came to a village, consisting of six very large houses, erected +on pallisades, rising twenty-five feet from the ground, which differed +in no one circumstance from those already described, but the height of +their elevation. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p270"></A>270}</SPAN>They contained only four men and their families. The +rest of the inhabitants were with us and in the small houses which we +passed higher up the river.<a name="v2-c10-hl1" href="#v2-c10-hr1">[1]</a> These people do not seem to enjoy the +abundance of their neighbours, as the men who returned from fishing had +no more than five salmon; they refused to sell one of them, but gave me +one roasted of a very indifferent kind. In the houses there were +several chests or boxes containing different articles that belonged to +the people whom we had lately passed. If I were to judge by the heaps +of filth beneath these buildings, they must have been erected at a more +distant period than any which we had passed. From these houses I could +perceive the termination of the river, and its discharge into a narrow +arm of the sea.</p> + +<p>As it was now half past six in the evening, and the weather cloudy, I +determined to remain here for the night, and for that purpose we +possessed ourselves of one of the unoccupied houses. The remains of our +last meal, which we brought with us, served for our supper, as we could +not procure a single fish from the natives. The course of the river is +about West, and the distance from the great village upwards of +thirty-six miles.—<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p271"></A>271}</SPAN>There we had lost our dog, a circumstance of no +small regret to me.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 20.</i>—We rose at a very early hour this morning, when I +proposed to the Indians to run down our canoe, or procure another at +this place. To both these proposals they turned a deaf ear, as they +imagined that I should be satisfied with having come in sight of the +sea. Two of them peremptorily refused to proceed; but the other two +having consented to continue with us, we obtained a larger canoe than +our former one, and though it was in a leaky state we were glad to +possess it.</p> + +<p>At about eight we got out of the river, which discharges itself by +various channels into an arm of the sea. The tide was out, and had left +a large space covered with sea-weed. The surrounding hills were +involved in fog. The wind was at West, which was ahead of us, and very +strong; the bay appearing to be from one to three miles in breadth. As +we advanced along the land we saw a great number of sea-otters. We +fired several shots at them, but without any success from the rapidity +with which they plunge under the water. We also saw many small +porpoises or divers. The white-headed eagle, which is common in the +interior parts; some small gulls, a dark bird which is inferior in size +to the gull, and a few small ducks, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p272"></A>272}</SPAN>were all the birds which presented +themselves to our view.</p> + +<p>At two in the afternoon the swell was so high, and the wind, which was +against us, so boisterous, that we could not proceed with our leaky +vessel, we therefore landed in a small cove on the right side of the +bay. Opposite to us appeared another small bay, in the mouth of which +is an island, and where, according to the information of the Indians, a +river discharges itself that abounds in salmon.</p> + +<p>Our young Indians now discovered a very evident disposition to leave us; +and, in the evening, one of them made his escape. Mr. Mackay, however, +with the other, pursued and brought him back; but as it was by no means +necessary to detain him, particularly as provisions did not abound with +us, I gave him a small portion, with a pair of shoes, which were +necessary for his journey, and a silk handkerchief, telling him at the +same time, that he might go and inform his friends, that we should also +return in three nights. He accordingly left us, and his companion, the +young chief, went with him.</p> + +<p>When we landed, the tide was going out, and at a quarter past four it +was ebb, the water having fallen in that short period eleven feet and an +half. Since we left the river, not a quarter of an hour had passed in +which <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p273"></A>273}</SPAN>we did not see porpoises and sea-otters. Soon after ten it was +high water, and rendered it necessary that our baggage should be shifted +several times, though not till some of the things had been wetted.</p> + +<p>We were now reduced to the necessity of looking out for fresh water, +with which we were plentifully supplied by the rills that ran down from +the mountains.</p> + +<p>When it was dark the young chief returned to us, bearing a large +porcupine on his back. He first cut the animal open, and having +disencumbered it of the entrails, threw them into the sea; he then +singed its skin, and boiled it in separate pieces, as our kettle was not +sufficiently capacious to contain the whole; nor did he go to rest, till +with the assistance of two of my people who happened to be awake, every +morsel of it was devoured.</p> + +<p>I had flattered myself with the hope of getting a distance of the moon +and stars, but the cloudy weather continually disappointed me, and I +began to fear that I should fail in this important object; particularly +as our provisions were at a very low ebb, and we had, as yet, no reason +to expect any assistance from the natives. Our stock was, at this time, +reduced to twenty pounds weight of pemmican, fifteen pounds of rice, and +six pounds of flour, among ten half-starved men, in a leaky vessel, and +on a barbarous coast. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p274"></A>274}</SPAN> +Our course from the river was about West-South-West, distance ten miles.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 21.</i>—At forty minutes past four this morning it was low +water, which made fifteen feet of perpendicular height below the +high-water mark of last night. Mr. Mackay collected a quantity of small +muscles which we boiled. Our people did not partake of this regale, as +they are wholly unacquainted with sea shell-fish. Our young chief being +missing, we imagined that he had taken his flight, but, as we were +preparing to depart, he fortunately made his appearance from the woods, +where he had been to take his rest after his feast of last night.</p> + +<p>At six we were upon the water, when we cleared the small bay, which we +named Porcupine Cove, and steered West-South-West for seven miles, we +then opened a channel about two miles and a half wide at +South-South-West, and had a view of ten or twelve miles into it.</p> + +<p>As I could not ascertain the distance from the open sea, and being +uncertain whether we were in a bay or among inlets and channels of +islands, I confined my search to a proper place for taking an +observation. We steered, therefore, along the land on the left, +West-North-West a mile and a half; then North-West one fourth of a mile, +and North three miles to an island the land continuing <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p275"></A>275}</SPAN>to run +North-North-West, then along the island, South-South-West half a mile, +West a mile and a half, and from thence directly across to the land on +the left, (where I had an altitude,) South-West three miles.<a name="v2-c10-hl2" href="#v2-c10-hr2">[2]</a> From +this position a channel, of which the island we left appeared to make a +check, bears North by East.</p> + +<p>Under the land we met with three canoes, with fifteen men in them, and +laden with their moveables, as if proceeding to a new situation, or +returning to a former one. They manifested no kind of mistrust or fear +of us, but entered into conversation with our young man, as I supposed, +to obtain some information concerning us. It did not appear that they +were the same people as those we had lately seen, as they spoke the +language of our young chief, with a different accent. They then +examined everything we had in our canoe, with an air of indifference and +disdain. One of them in particular made me understand, with an air of +insolence, that a large canoe had lately been in this bay, with people +in her like me, and that one of them, whom he called <i>Macubah</i> had fired +on him and his friends, and that <i>Bensins</i> had struck him on the back, +with the flat part of his sword. He also mentioned another name, the +articulation of which I could not <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p276"></A>276}</SPAN>determine. At the same time he +illustrated these circumstances by the assistance of my gun and sword; and +I do not doubt but he well deserved the treatment which he described. +He also produced several European articles, which could not have been long +in his possession. From his conduct and appearance, I wished very much to +be rid of him, and flattered myself that he would prosecute his voyage, +which appeared to be in an opposite direction to our course.</p> + +<p>However, when I prepared to part from them, they turned their canoes +about, and persuaded my young man to leave me, which I could not +prevent.</p> + +<p>We coasted along the land<a name="v2-c10-hl3" href="#v2-c10-hr3">[3]</a> at about West-South-West for six miles, and +met a canoe with two boys in it, who were dispatched to summon the +people on that part of the coast to join them. The troublesome fellow +now forced himself into my canoe, and pointed out a narrow channel on +the opposite shore, that led to his village, and requested us to steer +towards it, which I accordingly ordered. His importunities now became +very irksome, and he wanted to see everything we had, particularly my +instruments, concerning which he must have received information from my +young man. He asked for my hat, my handkerchief, and in short, +everything that he <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p277"></A>277}</SPAN>saw about me. At the same time he frequently +repeated the unpleasant intelligence that he had been shot at by people +of my colour. At some distance from the land a channel opened to us, at +South-West by West, and pointing that way, he made me understand that +<i>Macubah</i> came there with his large canoe. When we were in mid-channel, +I perceived some sheds, or the remains of old buildings on the shore; +and as, from that circumstance I thought it probable that some Europeans +might have been there I directed my steersman to make for that spot. +The traverse is upwards of three miles North-West.</p> + +<p>We landed, and found the ruins of a village, in a situation calculated +for defence. The place itself was overgrown with weeds, and in the +centre of the houses there was a temple, of the same form and +construction as that which I described at the large village. We were +soon followed by ten canoes, each of which contained from three to six +men. They informed us that we were expected at the village, where we +should see many of them. From their general deportment I was very +apprehensive that some hostile design was meditated against us, and for +the first time I acknowledged my apprehensions to my people. I +accordingly desired them to be very much upon their guard, and to be +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p278"></A>278}</SPAN>prepared if any violence was offered to defend themselves to the last.</p> + +<p>We had no sooner landed, than we took possession of a rock, where there +was not space for more than twice our number, and, which admitted of our +defending ourselves with advantage, in case we should be attacked. The +people in the three first canoes, were the most troublesome, but, after +doing their utmost to irritate us, they went away.</p> + +<p>They were, however, no sooner gone, than a hat, a handkerchief, and +several other articles, were missing. The rest of our visitors +continued their pressing invitations to accompany them to their village, +but finding our resolution to decline them was not to be shaken, they, +about sun-set relieved us from all further importunities, by their +departure.</p> + +<p>Another canoe, however, soon arrived, with seven stout, well-looking +men. They brought a box, which contained a very fine sea-otter skin, +and a goat skin that was beautifully white. For the former they +demanded my hanger, which, as may well be supposed, could not be spared +in our present situation, and they actually refused to take a yard and a +half of common broad cloth, with some other articles, for the skin, +which proves the unreflecting improvidence of our European traders. The +goat-skin was so bulky that I did not offer to purchase it. These men +also <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p279"></A>279}</SPAN>told me that <i>Macubah</i> had been there, and left his ship behind a +point of land in the channel, South-West from us; from whence he had +come to their village in boats, which these people represented by +imitating our manner of rowing. When I offered them what they did not +choose to accept for the otter-skin, they shook their heads, and very +distinctly answered, "No, no." And to mark their refusal of anything we +asked from them, they emphatically employed the same British +monosyllable. In one of the canoes which had left us, there was a seal, +that I wished to purchase, but could not persuade the natives to part +with it. They had also a fish, which I now saw for the first time. It +was about eighteen inches in length, of the shape and appearance of a +trout, with strong sharp teeth. We saw great numbers of the animals +which we had taken for sea-otters, but I was new disposed to think that +a great part of them, at least, must have been seals. The natives +having left us, we made a fire to warm ourselves, and as for supper, +there was but little of that, for our whole daily allowance did not +amount to what was sufficient for a single meal. The weather was clear +throughout the day, which was succeeded by a fine moon-light night. I +directed the people to keep watch by two in turn, and laid myself down +on my cloak.</p> + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p280"></A>280}</SPAN> <i>Monday, 22.</i>—This morning the weather was clear and pleasant; nor had +anything occurred to disturb us throughout the night. One solitary +Indian, indeed, came to us with about half a pound of boiled seal's +flesh, and the head of a small salmon, for which he asked a +handkerchief, but afterwards accepted a few beads. As this man came +alone, I concluded that no general plan had been formed among the +natives to annoy us, but this opinion did not altogether calm the +apprehensions of my people.</p> + +<p>Soon after eight in the morning, I took five altitudes for time, and the +mean of them was 36° 48' at six in the afternoon, 58. 34. time, by the +watch, which makes the achrometer slow apparent time 1h 21m 44s.</p> + +<p>Two canoes now arrived from the same quarter as the rest, with several +men, and our young Indian along with them. They brought a very few +small sea-otter skins, out of season, with some pieces of raw seal's +flesh. The former were of no value, but hunger compelled some of my +people to take the latter, at an extravagant price. Mr. Mackay lighted +a bit of touch-wood with a burning-glass, in the cover of his +tobacco-box, which so surprised the natives, that they exchanged the +best of their otter skins for it. The young man was now very anxious to +per suede our people to depart, as the natives, he <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p281"></A>281}</SPAN>said, were as +numerous as musquitoes, and of very malignant character. This +information produced some very earnest remonstrances to me to hasten our +departure, but as I was determined not to leave this place, except I was +absolutely compelled to it, till I had ascertained its situation, these +solicitations were not repeated.</p> + +<p>While I was taking a meridian, two canoes, of a larger size, and well +manned, appeared from the main South-West channel. They seemed to be +the fore-runners of others, who were coming to co-operate with the +people of the village, in consequence of the message sent by the two +boys, which has been already mentioned; and our young Indian, who +understood them, renewed his entreaties for our departure, as they would +soon come to shoot their arrows, and hurl their spears at us. In +relating our dangers his agitation was so violent, that he foamed at the +mouth. Though I was not altogether free from apprehensions on the +occasion, it was necessary for me disguise them, as my people were panic +struck, and some of them asked if it was my determination to remain +there to be sacrificed? My reply was the same as their former +importunities had received, that I would not stir till I had +accomplished my object; at the same time, to humour their fears, I +consented that they should put everything into <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p282"></A>282}</SPAN>the canoe, that we might +be in a state of preparation to depart. The two canoes now approached +the shore, and in a short time, five men, with their families, landed +very quietly from them. My instruments being exposed, they examined +them with much apparent admiration and astonishment. My altitude, by an +artificial horizon, gave 52° 21' 33"; that by the natural horizon was +52° 20' 48" North latitude.<a name="v2-c10-hl4" href="#v2-c10-hr4">[4]</a></p> + +<p>These Indians were of a different tribe from those which I had already +seen, as our guide did not understand their language. I now mixed up +some vermilion in melted grease, and inscribed, in large characters, on +the South-East face of the rock on which we had slept last night, this +brief memorial—"Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the +twenty-second of July, one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three."</p> + +<p>As I thought that we were too near the village, I consented to leave +this place, and accordingly proceeded North-East three miles, when we +landed on a point, in a small cove, where we should not be readily seen, +and could not be attacked except in our front.</p> + +<p>Among other articles that had been stolen from us, at our last station, +was a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p283"></A>283}</SPAN>sounding-line, which I intended to have employed in this bay, though +I should not probably have found the bottom, at any distance from the shore, +as the appearance both of the water and land indicated a great depth. The +latter displayed a solid rock, rising as it appeared to me, from three +to seven hundred feet above high water mark. Where any soil was +scattered about, there were cedars, spruce-firs, white birch, and other +trees of large growth. From its precipices issued streams of fine +water, as cold as ice.</p> + +<p>The two canoes which we had left at our last station, followed us +hither, and when they were preparing to depart, our young chief embarked +with them. I was determined, however, to prevent his escape, and +compelled him, by animal force, to come on shore, for I thought it much +better to incur his displeasure than to suffer him to expose himself to +any untoward accident among strangers, or to return to his father before +us. The men in the canoe made signs for him to go over the hill, and +that they would take him on board at the other side of it. As I was +necessarily engaged in other matters, I desired my people to take care +that he should not run away; but they peremptorily refused to be +employed in keeping him against his will. I was, therefore, reduced to +the necessity of watching him myself.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p284"></A>284}</SPAN>I took five altitudes, and the mean of them was 29. 23. 48, at +3. 5. 53. in the afternoon, by the watch, which makes it slow apparent +time.</p> +<pre> + 1h 22m 38s + In the forenoon} 1 21 44 2 44 22 + it was } + ---------- ---------- + Mean of both 1 22 11 + + Difference of nine hours go- } 8 + ing of the time-piece slow } + 1 22 19 +</pre> +<p>I observed an emersion of Jupiter's third satellite, which gave 8° 32' +21. difference of longitude. I then observed an emersion of Jupiter's +first satellite, which gave 8° 31' 48. The mean of these observations +is 8° 32' 2. which is equal to 128. 2. West of Greenwich.</p> + +<p>I had now determined my situation, which is the most fortunate +circumstance of my long, painful, and perilous journey, as a few cloudy +days would have prevented me from ascertaining the final longitude of +it.<a name="v2-c10-hl5" href="#v2-c10-hr5">[5]</a></p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p285"></A>285}</SPAN>At twelve it was high water, but the tide did not come within a foot and +an half of the high water mark of last night. As soon as I had +completed my observations, we left this place: it was then ten o'clock +in the afternoon. We returned the same way that we came, and though the +tide was running out very strong, by keeping close in with the rocks, we +proceeded at a considerable rate, as my people were very anxious to get +out of the reach of the inhabitants of this coast.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 23.</i>—During our course we saw several fires on the land to +the Southward, and after the day dawned, their smokes were visible. At +half past four this morning we arrived at our encampment of the night of +the 21st, which had been named Porcupine Cove. The tide was out, and +considerably lower than we found it when we were here before; the +high-water mark being above the place where we had made our fire. This +fluctuation must be occasioned by the action of the wind upon the water, +in those narrow channels.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p286"></A>286}</SPAN>As we continued onwards, towards the river, we saw a canoe, well manned, +which at first made from us with great expedition, but afterwards +waited, as if to reconnoitre us; however, it kept out of our way, and +allowed us to pass. The tide being much lower than when we were here +before, we were under the necessity of landing a mile below the village. +We observed that stakes were fixed in the ground along the bay, and in +some places machines were fastened to them, as I afterwards learned, to +intercept the seals and otters. These works are very extensive, and +must have been erected with no common labour. The only bird we saw +to-day was the white headed eagle.<a name="v2-c10-hl6" href="#v2-c10-hr6">[6]</a></p> + +<p>Our guide directed us to draw the canoe out of the reach of the tide and +to leave it. He would not wait, however, till this operation was +performed, and I did not wish to let him go alone. I therefore followed +him through a bad road encumbered with under-wood. When we had quitted +the wood, and were in sight of the houses, the young man being about +fifteen or twenty paces before me, I was surprised to see two men +running down towards me from one of the houses, with daggers in their +hands and fury in their aspect. From their hostile appearance, I could +not doubt of their purpose. I <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p287"></A>287}</SPAN>therefore stopped short, threw down my +cloak, and put myself in a posture of defence, with my gun presented +towards them. Fortunately for me, they knew the effect of firearms, and +instantly dropped their daggers, which were fastened by a string to +their wrists, and had before been held in a menacing attitude. I let my +gun also fall into my left hand, and drew my hanger. Several others +soon joined them, who were armed in the same manner; and among them I +recognised the man whom I have already mentioned as being so troublesome +to us, and who now repeated the names of Macuba and Benzins, signifying +at the same time by his action, as on a former occasion, that he had +been shot at by them. Until I saw him my mind was undisturbed; but the +moment he appeared, conceiving that he was the cause of my present +perilous situation, my resentment predominated, and if he had come +within my reach, I verily believe, that I should have terminated his +insolence forever.</p> + +<p>The rest now approached so near, that one of them +contrived to get behind me, and grasped me in his arms. I soon +disengaged myself from him; and, that he did not avail himself of the +opportunity which he had of plunging his dagger into me, I cannot +conjecture. They certainly might have overpowered me, and though I +should probably have killed <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p288"></A>288}</SPAN> +one or two of them, I must have fallen at last.</p> + +<p>One of my people now came out of the wood. On his appearance they +instantly took to flight, and with the utmost speed sought shelter in +the houses from whence they had issued. It was, however, upwards of ten +minutes before all my people joined me; and as they came one after the +other, these people might have successively dispatched every one of us. +If they had killed me, in the first instance, this consequence would +certainly have followed, and not one of us would have returned home to +tell the horrid fate of his companions.</p> + +<p>After having stated the danger I had encountered, I told my people that +I was determined to make these natives feel the impropriety of their +conduct toward us, and compel them to return my hat and cloak which they +had taken in the scuffle, as well as the articles previously purloined +from us, for most of the men who were in the three canoes that we first +saw, were now in the village. I therefore told my men to prime their +pieces afresh, and prepare themselves for an active use of them, if the +occasion should require it.</p> + +<p>We now drew up before the house, and made signs for some one to come +down to us. At length our young chief appeared, and told us that the men +belonging to the canoes had <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p289"></A>289}</SPAN>not only informed his friends, that we had +treated him very ill, but that we had killed four of their companions whom +he had met in the bay. When I had explained to them as well as it was in my +power, the falsehood of such a story, I insisted on the restoration of +everything that had been taken from us, as well as a necessary supply of +fish, as the conditions of my departure; accordingly the things were +restored, and a few dried fish along with them. A reconciliation now took +place, but our guide or young chief was so much terrified that he would +remain no longer with us, and requested us to follow with his father's +canoe, or mischief would follow. I determined, however, before my +departure, to take an observation, and at noon got a meridian altitude, +making this place, which I named Rascal's Village, 52. 23. 43. North +latitude.</p> + +<p>On my informing the natives that we wanted something more to eat, they +brought us two salmon; and when we signified that we had no poles to set +the canoe against the current, they were furnished with equal alacrity, +so anxious were they for our departure. I paid, however, for everything +which we had received, and did not forget the loan of the canoe.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c10-hr1" href="#v2-c10-hl1">[1]</a> Mr. Johnstone came to these houses the first day of the preceding +month.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c10-hr2" href="#v2-c10-hl2">[2]</a> The Cape or Point Menzies of Vancouver.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c10-hr3" href="#v2-c10-hl3">[3]</a> Named by Vancouver King's Island.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c10-hr4" href="#v2-c10-hl4">[4]</a> This I found to be the cheek of Vancouver's Cascade Canal.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c10-hr5" href="#v2-c10-hl5">[5]</a> Mr. Meares was undoubtedly wrong in the idea, so earnestly insisted +on by him, in his voyage, that there was was North-West practicable +passage to the Southward of sixty-nine degrees and an half of latitude, +as I flatter myself has been proved by my former voyage. Nor can I +refrain from expressing my surprise at his assertion, that there was an +inland sea or archipelago of great extent between the islands of Nootka +and the main, about the latitude where I was at this time. Indeed I +have been informed that Captain Grey, who commanded an American vessel, +and on whose authority he ventured this opinion, denies that he had +given Mr. Meares any such information. Besides, the contrary is +indubitably proved by Captain Vancouver's survey, from which no appeal +can be made.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c10-hr6" href="#v2-c10-hl6">[6]</a> This bay was now named Mackenzie's Outlet.</p> + + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p290"></A>290}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter11" href="#toc_chapter11"> CHAPTER XI.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JULY, 1793.</p> + +<p>The current of the river was so strong, that I should have complied with +the wishes of my people, and gone by land, but one of my Indians was so +weak, that it was impossible for him to perform the journey. He had +been ill some time; and, indeed, we had been all of us more or less +afflicted with colds on the sea coast. Four of the people therefore set +of with the canoe, and it employed them an hour to get half a mile. In +the mean time the native, who has been already mentioned as having +treated us with so much insolence, and four of his companions, went up +the river in a canoe, which they had above the rapid, with as many boxes +as men in her. This circumstance was the cause of fresh alarm, as it +was generally concluded that they would produce the same mischief and +danger in the villages above, as they had in that below. Nor was it +forgotten that the young chief had left us in a manner which would not +be interpreted in our favour by his father and friends.</p> + +<p>At length the canoe arrived, and the people declared in the most +unreserved terms, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p291"></A>291}</SPAN>that they would proceed no further in her; but when +they were made acquainted with the circumstances which have just been +described, their violence increased, and the greater part of the men +announced their determination to attempt the mountains, and endeavour, +by passing over them, to gain the road by which we came to the first +village. So resolved were they to pursue this plan, that they threw +everything which they had into the river, except their blankets. I was +all this time sitting patiently on a stone, and indulging the hope that, +when their frantic terror had subsided, their returning reason would +have disposed them to perceive the rashness of their project; but when I +observed that they persisted in it, I no longer remained a silent +listener to their passionate declarations, but proceeded to employ such +arguments as I trusted would turn them from their senseless and +impracticable purpose. After reproving my young Indian in very severe +terms, for encouraging the rest to follow their mad design of passing +the mountains, I addressed myself generally to them, stating the +difficulty of ascending the mountains, the eternal snows with which they +were covered, our small stock of provisions, which two days would +exhaust, and the consequent probability that we should perish with cold +and hunger. I urged the folly of being <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p292"></A>292}</SPAN>affected by the alarm of danger +which might not exist, and if it did, I encouraged them with the means +we possessed of surmounting it. Nor did I forget to urge the inhumanity +and injustice of leaving the poor sick Indian to languish and die. I +also added, that as my particular object had been accomplished, I had +now no other but our common safety; that the sole wish of my heart was +to employ the best means in my power, and to pursue the best method +which my understanding could suggest, to secure them and myself from +every danger that might impede our return.</p> + +<p>My steersman, who had been with me for five years in that capacity, +instantly replied that he was ready to follow me wherever I should go, +but that he would never again enter that canoe, as he had solemnly sworn +he would not, while he was in the rapid. His example was followed by +all the rest, except two, who embarked with Mr. Mackay,<a name="v2-c11-hl1" href="#v2-c11-hr1">[1]</a> myself, and +the sick Indian. The current, however, was so strong, that we dragged +up the greatest part of the way, by the branches of trees. Our +progress, as may be imagined, was very tedious, and attended with +uncommon labour; the party who went by land <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p293"></A>293}</SPAN>being continually obliged to +wait for us. Mr. Mackay's gun was carried out of the canoe and lost, at +a time when we appeared to stand in very great need of it, as two +canoes, with sixteen or eighteen men, were coming down the stream; and +the apprehensions which they occasioned did not subside till they shot +by us with great rapidity.</p> + +<p>At length we came in sight of the house, when we saw our young Indian +with six others, in a canoe coming to meet us. This was a very +encouraging circumstance, as it satisfied us that the natives who had +preceded, and whose malignant designs we had every reason to suspect, +had not been able to prejudice the people against us. We, therefore, +landed at the house, where we were received in a friendly manner, and +having procured some fish, we proceeded on our journey.</p> + +<p>It was almost dark when we arrived at the next house, and the first +persons who presented themselves to our observation were the turbulent +Indian and his four companions. They were not very agreeable objects; +but we were nevertheless well received by the inhabitants, who presented +us with fish and berries. The Indians who had caused us so much alarm, +we now discovered to be inhabitants of the islands, and traders in +various articles, such as cedar-bark, prepared to be <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p294"></A>294}</SPAN>wove into mats, +fish-spawn, copper, iron, and beads, the latter of which they get on +their own coast. For these they receive in exchange roasted salmon, +hemlock bark cakes, and the other kind made of salmon roes, sorrel, and +bitter berries. Having procured as much fish as would serve us for our +supper, and the meals of the next day, all my people went to rest except +one, with whom I kept the first watch.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 24.</i>—After twelve last night, I called up Mr. Mackay, and +one of the men, to relieve us, but as a general tranquillity appeared to +prevail in the place, I recommended them to return to their rest. I was +the first awake in the morning, and sent Mr. Mackay to see if our canoe +remained where we left it; but he returned to inform me that the +Islanders had loaded it with their articles of traffic, and were ready +to depart. On this intelligence I hurried to the water side, and +seizing the canoe by the stem, I should certainly have overset it, and +turned the three men that were in it, with all their merchandise, into +the river, had not one of the people of the house, who had been very +kind to us, informed me, that this was their own canoe, and that my +guide had gone off with ours. At the same moment the other two Indians +who belonged to the party, jumped nimbly into it, and pushed off with +all the haste and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p295"></A>295}</SPAN>hurry that their fears may be supposed to dictate.</p> + +<p>We now found ourselves once more without a guide or a canoe. We were, +however, so fortunate as to engage, without much difficulty, two of +these people to accompany us; as, from the strength of the current, it +would not have been possible for us to have proceeded by water without +their assistance. As the house was upon an island, we ferried over the +pedestrian party to the main bank of the river and continued our course +till our conductors came to their fishing ground, when they proposed to +land us, and our small portion of baggage; but as our companions were on +the opposite shore, we could not acquiesce, and after some time +persuaded them to proceed further with us. Soon after we met the chief +who had regaled us in our voyage down the river. He was seining between +two canoes, and had taken a considerable quantity of salmon. He took us +on board with him, and proceeded upwards with great expedition. These +people are surprisingly skilful and active in setting against a strong +current. In the roughest part they almost filled the canoe with water, +by way of a sportive alarm to us.</p> + +<p>We landed at the house of the chief, and he immediately placed a fish +before me. Our people now appeared on the opposite bank, when a canoe +was sent for them. As soon as <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p296"></A>296}</SPAN>they had made their meal of fish, they +proceeded on their route, and we followed them; the chief and one of the +natives having undertaken to conduct us.</p> + +<p>At five in the afternoon we came to two houses, which we had not seen in +going down. They were upon an island, and I was obliged to send for the +walking party, as our conductors, from the lateness of the hour, refused +to proceed any further with us till the next day. One of our men, being +at a small distance before the others, had been attacked by a female +bear with two cubs, but another of them arrived to his rescue, and shot +her. Their fears probably prevented them from killing the two young +ones. They brought a part of the meat, but it was very indifferent. We +were informed, that our former guide, or young chief, had passed this +place, at a very early hour of the morning, on foot.</p> + +<p>These people take plenty of another fish, besides salmon, which weigh +from fifteen to forty pounds. This fish is broader than the salmon, of +a greyish colour, and with a hunch on its back: the flesh is white, but +neither rich nor well flavoured. Its jaw and teeth are like those of a +dog, and the latter are larger and stronger than any I had ever seen in +a fish of equal size: those in front bend inwards, like the claws of a +bird of prey. It <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p297"></A>297}</SPAN>delights in shallow water, and its native name is +Dilly.</p> + +<p>We received as many fish and berries from these people as completely +satisfied our appetites. The latter excelled any of the kind that we +had seen. I saw also, three kinds of gooseberries, which, as we passed +through the woods, we found in great abundance.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 25.</i>—I arose before the sun, and the weather was very +fine. The men who were to accompany us went to visit their machines, +and brought back plenty of fish, which they strung on a rope, and left +them in the river. We now embarked thirteen in a canoe, and landed my +men on the South bank, as it would have been impracticable to have +stemmed the tide with such a load. The underwood was so thick that it +was with great difficulty they could pass through it. At nine we were +under the necessity of waiting to ferry them over a river from the +South, which is not fordable. After some time we came to two deserted +houses, at the foot of a rapid, beyond which our boatmen absolutely +refused to conduct us by water. Here was a road which led opposite to +the village. We had, however, the curiosity to visit the houses, which +were erected upon posts, and we suffered very severely for the +indulgence of it; for the doors were covered with fleas, and we were +immediately in the same condition, for <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p298"></A>298}</SPAN>which we had no remedy but to +take to the water. There was not a spot round the houses free from +grass, that was not alive, as it were, with this vermin.</p> + +<p>Our guides proposed to conduct us on our way, and we followed them on a +well-beaten track. They, however, went so fast, that we could not all +of us keep up with them, particularly our sick Indian, whose situation +was very embarrassing to us, and at length they contrived to escape. I +very much wished for these men to have accompanied us to the village, in +order to do away any ill impressions which might have arisen from the +young chief's report to his father, which we were naturally led to +expect would not be in our favour.</p> + +<p>This road conducted us through the finest wood of cedar trees that I had +ever seen. I measured several of them that were twenty-four feet in the +girth, and of a proportionate height. The alder trees are also of an +uncommon size; several of them were seven feet and an half in +circumference, and rose to forty feet without a branch; but my men +declared that they had, in their progress, seen much larger of both +kinds. The other wood was hemlock; white birch, two species of +spruce-firs, willows, &c. Many of the large cedars appeared to have +been examined, as I suppose by the natives, for the purpose of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p299"></A>299}</SPAN>making +canoes, but finding them hollow at heart, they were suffered to stand. +There was but little underwood, and the soil was a black rich mould, +which would well reward the trouble of cultivation. From the remains of +bones on certain spots, it is probable that the natives may have +occasionally burned their dead in this wood.</p> + +<p>As it was uncertain what our reception might be at the village, I +examined every man's arms and ammunition, and gave Mr. Mackay, who had +unfortunately lost his gun, one of my pistols. Our late conductors had +informed us that the man whom we left in a dying state, and to whom I +had administered some Turlington's balsam, was dead; and it was by no +means improbable that I might be suspected of hastening his end.</p> + +<p>At one in the afternoon we came to the bank of the river, which was +opposite to the village, which appeared to be in a state of perfect +tranquillity. Several of the natives were fishing above and below the +weir, and they very readily took us over in their canoes. The people +now hurried down to the water side, but I perceived none of the chief's +family among them. They made signs to me to go to his house; I +signified to them not to crowd about us, and indeed drew a line, beyond +which I made them understand they must not pass. I now directed +Mr. Mackay, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p300"></A>300}</SPAN>and the men to remain there, with their arms in readiness, +and to keep the natives at a distance, as I was determined to go alone +to the chief's house; and if they should hear the report of my pistols, +they were ordered to make the best of their way from these people, as it +would then be equally fruitless and dangerous to attempt the giving me +any assistance, as it would be only in the last extremity, and when I +was certain of their intention to destroy me, that I should discharge my +pistols. My gun I gave to Mr. Mackay, when, with my loaded pistols in +my belt, and a poignard in my hand, I proceeded to the abode of the +chief. I had a wood to pass in my way thither, which was intersected by +various paths and I took one that led to the back, instead of the front +of the house; and as the whole had been very much altered since I was +here before, I concluded that I had lost my way. But I continued to +proceed, and soon met with the chief's wife, who informed me, that he +was at the next house. On my going round it, I perceived that they had +thrown open the gable ends, and added two wings, nearly as long as the +body, both of which were hung round with salmon as close as they could +be placed. As I could discover none of the men, I sat down upon a large +stone near some women who were supping on salmon roes and berries. They +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p301"></A>301}</SPAN>invited me to partake of their fare, and I was about to accept their +invitation when Mr. Mackay joined me, as both himself and all my party +were alarmed at my being alone. Nor was his alarm lessened by an old +man whom he met in the wood, and who made use of signs to persuade him +to return. As he came without his gun, I gave him one of my pistols. +When I saw the women continue their employment without paying the least +attention to us, I could not imagine that any hostile design was +preparing against us. Though the non-appearance of the men awakened +some degree of suspicion that I should not be received with the same +welcome as on my former visit. At length the chief appeared, and his +son, who had been our guide, following him; displeasure was painted in +the old man's countenance, and he held in his hand a bead tobacco pouch +which belonged to Mr. Mackay, and the young chief had purloined from +him. When he had approached within three or four yards of me, he threw +it at me with great indignation, and walked away. I followed him, +however, until he had passed his son, whom I took by the hand, but he +did not make any very cordial return to my salutation; at the same time +he made signs for me to discharge my pistol, and give him my hanger +which Mr. Mackay had brought me, but I did not <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p302"></A>302}</SPAN>pay the least attention +to either of his demands.</p> + +<p>We now joined the chief, who explained to me that he was in a state of +deep distress for the loss of his son, and made me understand that he +had cut off his hair and blackened his face on the melancholy occasion. +He also represented the alarm which he had suffered respecting his son +who had accompanied us; as he apprehended we had killed him, or had all +of us perished together. When he had finished his narrative, I took him +and his son by their hands, and requested them to come with me to the +place where I had left my people, who were rejoiced to see us return, +having been in a state of great anxiety from our long absence. I +immediately remunerated the young chief for his company and assistance +in our voyage to the sea, as well as his father, for his former +attentions. I gave them cloth and knives, and, indeed, a portion of +everything which now remained to us. The presents had the desired +effect of restoring us to their favour; but these people are of so +changeable a nature, that there is no security with them. I procured +three robes and two otter-skins, and if I could have given such articles +in exchange as they preferred, I should probably have obtained more. I +now represented the length of the way which I had to go, and requested +some <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p303"></A>303}</SPAN>fish to support us on our journey, when he desired us to follow him +to the house, where mats were immediately arranged and a fish placed +before each of us.</p> + +<p>We were now informed, that our dog, whom we had lost, had been howling +about the village ever since we left it, and that they had reason to +believe he left the woods at night to eat the fish he could find about +the houses. I immediately dispatched Mr. Mackay, and a man, in search +of the animal, but they returned without him.</p> + +<p>When I manifested my intention to proceed on my journey, the chief +voluntarily sent for ten roasted salmon, and having attended us with his +son, and a great number of his people, to the last house in the village, +we took our leave. It was then half past three in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>I directed Mr. Mackay to take the lead, and the others to follow him in +Indian files, at a long and steady pace, as I determined to bring up the +rear. I adopted this measure from a confusion that was observable among +the natives which I did not comprehend. I was not without my suspicions +that some mischief was in agitation, and they were increased from the +confused noise we heard in the village. At the same time a considerable +number came running after us; some of them making signs for us to stop, +and others <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p304"></A>304}</SPAN>rushing by me. I perceived also, that those who followed us +were the strangers who live among these people, and are kept by them in +a state of awe and subjection; and one of them made signs to me that we +were taking a wrong road. I immediately called out to Mr. Mackay to +stop. This was naturally enough taken for an alarm, and threw my people +into great disorder. When, however, I was understood, and we had +mustered again, our Indian informed us, that the noise we heard was +occasioned by a debate among the natives, whether they should stop us or +not. When, therefore, we had got into the right road, I made such +arrangements as might be necessary for our defence, if we should have an +experimental proof that our late and fickle friends were converted into +enemies.</p> + +<p>Our way was through a forest of stately cedars, beneath a range of lofty +hills, covered with rocks, and without any view of the river. The path +was well beaten, but rendered incommodious by the large stones which lay +along it.</p> + +<p>As we were continuing our route, we all felt the sensation of having +found a lost friend at the sight of our dog; but he appeared, in a great +degree, to have lost his former sagacity. He ran in a wild way +backwards and forwards; and though he kept our <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p305"></A>305}</SPAN>road, I could not induce +him to acknowledge his master. Sometimes he seemed disposed to approach +as if he knew us; and then, on a sudden, he would turn away, as if +alarmed at our appearance. The poor animal was reduced almost to a +skeleton, and we occasionally dropped something to support him, and by +degrees he recovered his former sagacity.</p> + +<p>When the night came on we stopped at a small distance from the river, +but did not venture to make a fire. Every man took his tree, and laid +down in his clothes, and with his arms, beneath the shade of its +branches. We had removed to a short distance from the path; no sentinel +was now appointed, and every one was left to watch for his own safety.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 26.</i>—After a very restless, though undisturbed night, we set +forward as soon as day appeared, and walked on with all possible +expedition, till we got to the upper, which we now called Friendly +Village, and was the first we visited on our outward journey.</p> + +<p>It was eight in the morning of a very fine day when we arrived, and +found a very material alteration in the place since we left it. Five +additional houses had been erected and were filled with salmon: the +increase of inhabitants was in the same proportion. We were received +with great kindness, and a messenger was dispatched to inform the chief, +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p306"></A>306}</SPAN>whose name was Soocomlick, and who was then at his fishing-weir, of our +arrival. He immediately returned to the village to confirm the cordial +reception of his people; and having conducted us to his house, +entertained us with the most respectful hospitality. In short, he +behaved to us with so much attention and kindness, that I did not +withhold anything in my power to give, which might afford him +satisfaction. I presented him with two yards of blue cloth, an axe, +knives, and various other articles. He gave me in return a large shell +which resembled the under shell of a Guernsey oyster, but somewhat +larger. Where they procured them I could not discover, but they cut and +polish them for bracelets, ear-rings, and other personal ornaments. He +regretted that he had no sea-otter skins to give me, but engaged to +provide abundance of them whenever either my friends or myself should +return by sea; an expectation which I thought it right to encourage +among these people. He also earnestly requested me to bring him a gun +and ammunition. I might have procured many curious articles at this +place, but was prevented by the consideration that we must have carried +them on our backs upwards of three hundred miles through a mountainous +country. The young chief, to his other acts of kindness, added as large +a supply of fish as we choose to take.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p307"></A>307}</SPAN>Our visit did not occasion any particular interruption of the ordinary +occupation of the people; especially of the women, who were employed in +boiling sorrel, and different kinds of berries, with salmon-roes, in +large square kettles of cedar wood. This pottage, when it attained a +certain consistency, they took out with ladles, and poured it into +frames of about twelve inches square and one deep, the bottom being +covered with a large leaf, which were then exposed to the sun till their +contents became so many dried cakes. The roes that are mixed up with +the bitter berries, are prepared in the same way. From the quantity of +this kind of provision, it must be a principal article of food, and +probably of traffic. These people have also portable chests of cedar, +in which they pack them, as well as their salmon, both dried and +roasted. It appeared to me that they eat no flesh, except such as the +sea may afford them, as that of the sea-otter and the seal. The only +instance we observed to the contrary, was in a young Indian who +accompanied us among the islands, and has been already mentioned as +feasting on the flesh of a porcupine; whether this be their custom +throughout the year, or only during the season of the salmon fishery; +or, whether there were any castes of them, as in India, I cannot pretend +to determine. It is certain, however, that they are not hunters, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p308"></A>308}</SPAN>and I +have already mentioned the abhorrence they expressed at some venison +which we brought to their village. During our former visit to these +people, they requested us not to discharge our fire-arms, lest the +report should frighten away the salmon, but now they expressed a wish +that I should explain the use and management of them. Though their +demeanour to us was of the most friendly nature, and they appeared +without any arms, except a few who accidentally had their daggers, I did +not think it altogether prudent to discharge our pieces; I therefore +fired one of my pistols at a tree marked for the purpose, when I put +four out of five buck shot with which it was loaded, into the circle, to +their extreme astonishment and admiration.</p> + +<p>These people were in general of the middle stature, well set, and better +clothed with flesh than any of the natives of the interior country. +Their faces are round, with high cheek bones, and their complexion +between the olive and the copper. They have small grey eyes, with a +tinge of red; they have wedge heads, and their hair is of a dark brown +colour, inclining to black. Some wear it long, keep it well combed, and +let it hang loose over their shoulders, while they divide and tie it in +knots over the temples. Others arrange its plaits, and bedaub it with +brown earth, so as to render it impervious to the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p309"></A>309}</SPAN>comb; they, therefore, +carry a bodkin about them to ease the frequent irritation, which may be +supposed to proceed from such a state of the head. The women are +inclined to be fat, wear their hair short, and appear to be very subject +to swelled legs, a malady that probably proceeds from the posture in +which they are always sitting: as they are chiefly employed in the +domestic engagements of spinning, weaving, preparing the fish, and +nursing their children, which did not appear to be numerous. Their +cradle differed from any that I had seen; it consisted of a frame fixed +round a board of sufficient length, in which the child, after it has +been swathed, is placed on a bed of moss, and a conductor contrived to +carry off the urinary discharge. They are slung over one shoulder by +means of a cord fastened under the other, so that the infant is always +in a position to be readily applied to the breast, when it requires +nourishment. I saw several whose heads were inclosed in boards covered +with leather, till they attain the form of a wedge. The women wear no +clothing but the robe, either loose or tied round the middle with a +girdle, as the occasion may require, with the addition of a fringed +apron, already mentioned, and a cap, in the form of an inverted bowl or +dish. To the robe and cap, the men add, when it rains, a circular mat +with an opening in the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p310"></A>310}</SPAN>middle sufficient to admit the head, which +extending over the shoulders, throws off the wet. They also +occasionally wear shoes of dressed moose-skin, for which they are +indebted to their neighbors. Those parts, which among all civilized +nations are covered from familiar view, are here openly exposed.</p> + +<p>They are altogether dependent on the sea and rivers for their +sustenance, so that they may be considered as a stationary people; hence +it is that the men engage in those toilsome employments, which the +tribes who support themselves by the chase, leave entirely to the women. +Polygamy is permitted among them, though, according to my observation, +most of the men were satisfied with one wife, with whom, however, +chastity is not considered as a necessary virtue. I saw but one woman +whose under lip was split and disfigured with an appendant ornament. +The men frequently bathe, and the boys are continually in the water. +They have nets and lines of various kinds and sizes, which are made of +cedar bark, and would not be known from those made of hemp. Their hooks +consist of two pieces of wood or bone, forming when fixed together, an +obtuse angle.</p> + +<p>Their spears or darts are from four to sixteen feet in length; the barb +or point being fixed in a socket, which, when the animal is struck, +slips from it: thus the barb being <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p311"></A>311}</SPAN>fastened by a string to the handle, +remains as a buoy; or enables the aquatic hunter to tire and take his +prey. They are employed against sea-otters, seals, and large fish.</p> + +<p>Their hatchets are made principally of about fourteen inches of +bar-iron, fixed into a wooden handle, as I have already described them; +though they have some of bone or horn: with these, a mallet and wooden +wedge, they hew their timbers and form their planks. They must also +have other tools with which they complete and polish their work, but my +stay was so short, my anxiety so great, and my situation so critical, +that many circumstances may be supposed to have escaped me.</p> + +<p>Their canoes are made out of the cedar tree, and will carry from eight +to fifty persons.</p> + +<p>Their warlike weapons, which, as far as I could judge, they very seldom +have occasion to employ, are bows and arrows, spears, and daggers. The +arrows are such as have been already described, but rather of a slighter +make. The bows are not more than two feet and an half in length; they +are formed of a slip of red cedar; the grain being on one side untouched +with any tool, while the other is secured with sinews 'attached to it by +a kind of glue. Though this weapon has a very slender appearance, it +throws an arrow with great force, and to a considerable distance. Their +spears are about ten feet long, and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p312"></A>312}</SPAN>pointed with iron. Their daggers +are of various kinds, being of British, Spanish, and American +Manufacture.</p> + +<p>Their household furniture consists of boxes, troughs, and dishes formed +of wood, with different vessels made of watape. These are employed, +according to their several applications, to contain their valuables, and +provisions, as well as for culinary purposes, and to carry water. The +women make use of muscle-shells to split and clean their fish, and which +are very well adapted to that purpose.</p> + +<p>Their ornaments are necklaces, collars, bracelets for the arms, wrists, +and legs, with ear-rings, &c.</p> + +<p>They burn their dead, and display their mourning, by cutting their hair +short, and blackening their faces. Though I saw several places where +bodies had been burned, I was surprised at not seeing any tomb or +memorial of the dead, particularly when their neighbours are so +superstitiously attentive to the erection and preservation of them.</p> + +<p>From the number of their canoes, as well as the quantity of their chests +and boxes, to contain their moveables, as well as the insufficiency of +their houses, to guard against the rigours of a severe winter, and the +appearance of the ground around their habitations, it is evident that +these people reside <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p313"></A>313}</SPAN>here only during the summer or salmon season, which +does not probably last more than three months. It may be reasonably +inferred, therefore, that they have villages on the sea-coast, which +they inhabit during the rest of the year. There it may be supposed they +leave the sick, the infirm, and the aged; and thither they may bear the +ashes of those who die at the place of their summer residence.</p> + +<p>Of their religion I can say but little, as my means of observation were +very contracted. I could discover, however, that they believed in a +good and evil spirit: and that they have some forms of worship to +conciliate the protection of one, and perhaps to avert the enmity of the +other, is apparent from the temples which I have described; and where, +at stated periods, it may be presumed they hold the feasts, and perform +the sacrifices, which their religion, whatever it may be, has instituted +as the ceremonials of their public worship.</p> + +<p>From the very little I could discover of their government, it is +altogether different from any political regulation which had been +remarked by me among the savage tribes. It is on this river alone that +one man appears to have an exclusive and hereditary right to what was +necessary to the existence of those who are associated with him. I +allude to the salmon weir, or fishing place, the sole <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p314"></A>314}</SPAN>right to which +confers on the chief an arbitrary power. Those embankments could not +have been formed without a very great and associated labour; and, as +might be supposed, on the condition that those who assisted in +constructing it should enjoy a participating right in the advantages to +be derived from it. Nevertheless, it evidently appeared to me, that the +chief's power over it, and the people, was unlimited, and without +control. No one could fish without his permission, or carry home a +larger portion of what he had caught, than was set apart for him. No +one could build a house without his consent; and all his commands +appeared to be followed with implicit obedience. The people at large +seemed to be on a perfect equality, while the strangers among them were +obliged to obey the commands of the natives in general or quit the +village. They appear to be of a friendly disposition, but they are +subject to sudden gusts of passion, which are as quickly composed; and +the transition is instantaneous, from violent irritation to the most +tranquil demeanor. Of the many tribes of savage people whom I have +seen, these appear to be the most susceptible of civilization. They +might soon be brought to cultivate the little ground about them which is +capable of it. There is a narrow border of a rich black soil, on either +side of the river, over a bed of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p315"></A>315}</SPAN>gravel, which would yield any grain or +fruit that are common to similar latitudes in Europe.</p> + +<p>The very few words which I collected of their language, are as +follows:—</p> +<pre> + + Zimilk, Salmon. + Dilly, A fish of the size of a salmon, with canine teeth. + Sepnas, Hair of the head. + Kietis, An axe. + Clougus, Eyes. + Itzas, Teeth. + Ma-acza, Nose. + Ich-yeh, Leg. + Shous-shey Hand. + Watts, Dog. + Zla-achle, House. + Zimnez, Bark mat robe. + Couloun, Beaver or otter ditto. + Dichts, Stone. + Neach, Fire. + Ulkan, Water. + Gits com, A mat. + Shiggimis, Thread. + Till-kewan, Chest or box. + Thlogatt, Cedar bark. + Achimoul, Beads got upon their coast. + Il-caiette, A bonnet. + Couny, A clam shell. + Nochasky, A dish composed of berries and salmon roes. + Caiffre, What? + +</pre> +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c11-hr1" href="#v2-c11-hl1">[1]</a> It is but common justice to him, to mention in this place that I had +every reason to be satisfied with his conduct.</p> + + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p316"></A>316}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter12" href="#toc_chapter12"> CHAPTER XII.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JULY, 1793.</p> + +<p>At eleven in the morning we left this place, which I called Friendly +Village, accompanied by every man belonging to it, who attended us about +a mile, when we took a cordial leave of them; and if we might judge from +appearances, they parted from us with regret.</p> + +<p>In a short time we halted to make a division of our fish, and each man +had about twenty pounds weight of it, except Mr. Mackay and myself, who +were content with shorter allowance, that we might have less weight to +carry. We had also a little flour, and some pemmican. Having completed +this arrangement with all possible expedition, we proceeded onwards, the +ground rising gradually, as we continued our route. When we were clear +of the wood, we saw the mountain towering above, and apparently of +impracticable ascent. We soon came to the fork of the river, which was +at the foot of the precipice, where the ford was three feet deep, and +very rapid. Our young Indian, though much recovered, was still too weak +to cross the water, and with some difficulty I carried him over on my +back.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p317"></A>317}</SPAN>It was now one in the afternoon, and we had to ascend the summit of the +first mountain before night came on, in order to look for water. I left +the sick Indian, with his companion and one of my men, to follow us, as +his strength would permit him. The fatigue of ascending these +precipices I shall not attempt to describe, and it was past five when we +arrived at a spot where we could get water, and in such an extremity of +weariness, that it was with great pain any of us could crawl about to +gather wood for the necessary purpose of making a fire. To relieve our +anxiety, which began to increase every moment for the situation of the +Indian, about seven he and his companions arrived; when we consoled +ourselves by sitting round a blazing fire, talking of past dangers, and +indulging the delightful reflection that we were thus far advanced on +our homeward journey. Nor was it possible to be in this situation +without contemplating the wonders of it. Such was the depth of the +precipices below, and the height of the mountains above, with the rude +and wild magnificence of the scenery around, that I shall not attempt to +describe such an astonishing and awful combination of objects; of which, +indeed, no description can convey an adequate idea. Even at this place, +which is only, as it were, the first step towards gaining the summit of +the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p318"></A>318}</SPAN>mountains, the climate was very sensibly changed. The air that +fanned the village which we left at noon, was mild and cheering; the +grass was verdant, and the wild fruits ripe around it. But here the +snow was not yet dissolved, the ground was still bound by the frost, the +herbage had scarce begun to spring, and the crowberry bushes were just +beginning to blossom.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 27.</i>—So great was our fatigue of yesterday, that it was +late before we proceeded to return over the mountains, by the same route +which we had followed in our outward journey. There was little or no +change in the appearance of the mountains since we passed them, though +the weather was very fine.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 28.</i>—At nine this morning we arrived at the spot, where we +slept with the natives on the 16th instant, and found our pemmican in +good condition where we had buried it.</p> + +<p>The latitude of this place, by observation, when I passed, I found to be +52. 46. 32. I now took time, and the distance between sun and moon. I +had also an azimuth, to ascertain the variation.</p> + +<p>We continued our route with fine weather, and without meeting a single +person on our way, the natives being all gone, as we supposed, to the +Great River. We recovered all <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p319"></A>319}</SPAN>our hidden stores of provisions, and +arrived about two in the afternoon of Sunday, August the 4th, at the +place which we had left a month before.</p> + +<p>A considerable number of Indians were encamped on the opposite side of +the small river, and in consequence of the weather, confined to their +lodges: as they must have heard of, if not seen us, and our arms being +out of order from the rain, I was not satisfied with our situation; but +did not wish to create an alarm. We, therefore, kept in the edge of the +wood, and called to them, when they turned out like so many furies, with +their arms in their hands, and threatening destruction if we dared to +approach their habitations. We remained in our station till their +passion and apprehensions had subsided, when our interpreter gave them +the necessary information respecting us. They proved to be strangers to +us, but were the relations of those whom we had already seen here, and +who, as they told us, were upon an island at some distance up the river. +A messenger was accordingly sent to inform them of our arrival.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 5.</i>—On examining the canoe, and our property, which we had +left behind, we found it in perfect safety, nor was there the print of a +foot near the spot. We now pitched our tent, and made a blazing fire, +and I treated myself, as well as the people, with a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p320"></A>320}</SPAN>dram; but we had +been so long without tasting any spirituous liquor, that we had lost all +relish for it. The Indians now arrived from above, and were rewarded +for the care they had taken of our property with such articles as were +acceptable to them.</p> + +<p>At nine this morning I sent five men in the canoe, for the various +articles we had left below, and they soon returned with them, and except +some bale goods, which had got wet, they were in good order, +particularly the provisions, of which we were now in great need.</p> + +<p>Many of the natives arrived both from the upper and lower parts of the +river, each of whom was dressed in a beaver robe. I purchased fifteen +of them; and they preferred large knives in exchange. It is an +extraordinary circumstance, that these people, who might have taken all +the property we left behind us, without the least fear of detection, +should leave that untouched, and purloin any of our utensils, which our +confidence in their honesty gave them a ready opportunity of taking. In +fact, several articles were missing, and as I was very anxious to avoid +a quarrel with the natives, in this stage of our journey, I told those +who remained near us, without any appearance of anger, that their +relations who were gone, had no idea of the mischief that would result +to them from <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p321"></A>321}</SPAN>taking our property. I gravely added, that the salmon, +which was not only their favourite food, but absolutely necessary to +their existence, came from the see which belonged to us white men; and +that as, at the entrance of the river, we could prevent those fish from +coming up it, we possessed the power to starve them and their children. +To avert our anger, therefore, they must return all the articles that +had been stolen from us. This finesse succeeded. Messengers were +dispatched to order the restoration of everything that had been taken. +We purchased several large salmon of them and enjoyed the delicious meal +which they afforded.</p> + +<p>At noon this day, which I allotted for repose, I got a meridian +altitude, which gave 53. 24. 10. I also took time. The weather had been +cloudy at intervals.</p> + +<p>Every necessary preparation had been made yesterday for us to continue +our route to-day; but before our departure, some of the natives arrived +with part of the stolen articles; the rest, they said, had been taken by +people down the river, who would be here in the course of the morning, +and recommended their children to our commiseration, and themselves to +our forgiveness.</p> + +<p>The morning was cloudy, with small rain, nevertheless I ordered the men +to load the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p322"></A>322}</SPAN>canoe, and we proceeded in high spirits on finding ourselves +once more so comfortably together in it. We landed at a house on the +first island, where we procured a few salmon, and four fine beaver +skins. There had been much more rain in these parts than in the country +above, as the water was pouring down the hills in torrents. The river +consequently rose with great rapidity, and very much impeded our +progress.</p> + +<p>The people on this river are generally of the middle size, though I saw +many tall men among them. In the cleanliness of their persons they +resemble rather the Beaver Indians than the Chepewyans. They are +ignorant of the use of fire arms, and their only weapons are bows and +arrows, and spears. They catch the larger animals in snares, but though +their country abounds in them, and the rivers and lakes produce plenty +of fish, they find a difficulty in supporting themselves, and are never +to be seen but in small bands of two or three families. There is no +regular government among them; nor do they appear to have a sufficient +communication or understanding with each other, to defend themselves +against an invading enemy, to whom they fall an easy prey. They have +all the animals common on the West side of the mountains, except the +buffalo and the wolf; at least we saw none of the latter, and there +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p323"></A>323}</SPAN>being none of the former, it is evident that their progress is from the +South-East. The same language is spoken, with very little exception +from the extent of my travels down this river, and in a direct line from +the North-East head of it in the latitude 53. or 54. to Hudson's Bay; +so that a Chepewyan, from which tribe they have all sprung, might leave +Churchill River, and proceeding in every direction to the North-West of +this line without knowing any language except his own, would understand +them all: I except the natives of the sea coast, who are altogether a +different people. As to the people to the Eastward of this river, I am +not qualified to speak of them.</p> + +<p>At twelve we ran our canoe upon a rock, so that we were obliged to land +in order to repair the injury she had received; and as the rain came on +with great violence, we remained here for the night. The salmon were +now driving up the current in such large shoals, that the water seemed, +as it were, to be covered with the fins of them.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 7.</i>—About nine this morning the weather cleared, and we +embarked. The shoals of salmon continued as yesterday. There were +frequent showers throughout the day, and every brook was deluged into a +river. The water had risen at least one foot and an half perpendicular +in the last <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p324"></A>324}</SPAN>twenty-four hours. In the dusk of the evening we landed for +the night.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 8.</i>—The water continued rising during the night; so that +we were disturbed twice in the course of it, to remove our baggage. At +six in the morning we were on our way, and proceeded with continual and +laborious exertion, from the increased rapidity of the current. After +having passed the two carrying places of Rocky Point, and the Long +Portage, we encamped for the night.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 9.</i>—We set off at five, after a rainy night and in a foggy +morning. The water still retained its height. The sun, however, soon +beamed upon us; and our clothes and baggage were in such a state that we +landed to dry them. After some time we re-embarked and arrived at our +first encampment on this river about seven in the evening. The water +fell considerably in the course of the day.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 10.</i>—The weather was cloudy with slight showers, and at +five this morning we embarked, the water falling as fast as it had +risen. This circumstance arises from the mountainous state of the +country on either side of the river, from whence the water rushes down +almost as fast as it falls from the heavens, with the addition of the +snow it melts in its way. At eight in the evening we stopped for the +night.</p> + + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p325"></A>325}</SPAN> <i>Sunday, 11.</i>—At five this morning we proceeded with clear weather. +At ten we came to the foot of the long rapid, which we ascended with +poles much easier than we expected. The rapids that were so strong and +violent in our passage downwards, were now so reduced, that we could +hardly believe them to be the same. At sunset we landed and encamped.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 12.</i>—The weather was the same as yesterday, and we were on +the water at a very early hour. At nine we came to a part of the river +where there was little or no current. At noon we landed to gum the +canoe, when I took a meridian altitude, which gave 54. 11. 36. North +latitude. We continued our route nearly East, and at three in the +afternoon approached the fork, when I took time, and the distance +between the sun and moon. At four in the afternoon we left the main +branch. The current was quite slack, as the water had fallen six feet, +which must have been in the course of three days. At sunset we landed +and took our station for the night.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 13.</i>—There was a very heavy rain in the night, and the +morning was cloudy; we renewed our voyage, however, at a very early +hour, and came to the narrow gut between the mountains of rock, which +was a passage of some risk; but fortunately <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p326"></A>326}</SPAN>the state of the water was +such, that we got up without any difficulty, and had more time to +examine these extraordinary rocks than in our outward passage. They are +as perpendicular as a wall, and give the idea of a succession of +enormous Gothic churches. We were now closely hemmed in by the +mountains, which had lost much oh their snow since our former passage by +them. We encamped at a late hour, cold, wet, and hungry: for such was +the state of our provisions, that our necessary allowance did not answer +to the active cravings of our appetites.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 14.</i>—The weather was cold and raw, with small rain, but +our necessities would not suffer us to wait for a favourable change of +it, and at half past five we arrived at the swampy carrying-place, +between this branch and the small river. At three in the afternoon the +cold was extreme, and the men could not keep themselves warm even by +their violent exertions which our situation required; and I now gave +them the remainder of our rum to fortify and support them. The canoe +was so heavy that the lives of two of them were endangered in this +horrible carrying-place. At the same time it must be observed, that +from the fatiguing circumstances of our journey, and the inadequate +state of our provisions, the natural strength of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p327"></A>327}</SPAN>men had been +greatly diminished. We encamped on the banks of the bad river.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 15.</i>—The weather was now clear, and the sun shone upon us. +The water was much lower than in the downward passage, but was cold as +ice, and, unfortunately, the men were obliged to be continually in it to +drag on the canoe. There were many embarras, through which a passage +might have been made, but we were under the necessity of carrying both +the canoe and baggage.</p> + +<p>About sun-set we arrived at our encampment of the 13th of June, where +some of us had nearly taken our eternal voyage. The legs and feet of +the men were so benumbed, that I was very apprehensive of the +consequence. The water being low, we made a search for our bag of ball, +but without success. The river was full of salmon, and another fish +like the black bass.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 16.</i>—The weather continued to be the same as yesterday, and +at two in the afternoon we came to the carrying-place which leads to the +first small lake; but it was so filled with drift wood, that a +considerable portion of time was employed in making our way through it. +We now reached the high land which separates the source of the Tacoutche +Tesse, or Columbia River, and Unjigah, or Peace River: the latter of +which, after receiving many tributary streams, passes <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p328"></A>328}</SPAN>through the great +Slave Lake, and disembogues itself in the Frozen Ocean, in latitude +69. 30. North, longitude 135 West from Greenwich; while the former, +confined by the immense mountains that run nearly parallel with the +Pacific Ocean, and keep it in a Southern course, empties itself in +46. 20. North latitude and longitude 124 West from Greenwich.</p> + +<p>If I could have spared the time, and had been able to exert myself, for +I was now afflicted with a swelling in my ancles, so that I could not +even walk, but with great pain and difficulty, it was my intention to +have taken some salmon alive, and colonised them in the Peace River, +though it is very doubtful whether that fish would live in waters that +have not a communication with the sea.</p> + +<p>Some of the inhabitants had been here since we passed; and I apprehend, +that on seeing our road through their country, they mistook us for +enemies, and had therefore deserted the place, which is a most +convenient station; as on one side, there is a great plenty of white +fish, and trout, jub, carp, &c., and on the other abundance of salmon, +and probably other fish. Several things that I had left here in +exchange for articles of which I had possessed myself, as objects of +curiosity, were taken away. The hurtle-berries were now ripe, and very +fine of their kind.</p> + + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p329"></A>329}</SPAN> <i>Saturday, 17.</i>—The morning was cloudy, and at five we renewed our +progress. We were compelled to carry from the lake to the Peace River, +the passage, from the falling of the water, being wholly obstructed by +drift wood. The meadow through which we passed was entirely inundated; +and from the state of my foot and ancle, I was obliged, though with +great reluctance, to submit to be carried over it.</p> + +<p>At half past seven we began to glide along with the current of the Peace +River; and almost at every canoe's length we perceived Beaver roads to +and from the river. At two in the afternoon, an object attracted our +notice at the entrance of a small river, which proved to be the four +beaver skins, already mentioned to have been presented to me by a +native, and left in his possession to receive them on my return. I +imagined, therefore, that being under the necessity of leaving the +river, or, perhaps, fearing to meet us again, he had taken this method +to restore them to me; and to reward his honesty, I left three times the +value of the skins in their place. The snow appeared in patches on the +mountains. At four in the afternoon we passed the place where we. +found the first natives, and landed for the night at a late hour. In +the course of the day, we caught nine outards, or Canada <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p330"></A>330}</SPAN>geese, but they +were as yet without their feathers.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Sunday, 18.</i>—As soon as it was light we proceeded on our voyage, and +drove on before the current, which was very much diminished in its +strength, since we came up it. The water indeed, was so low, that in +many parts it exposed a gravelly beach. At eleven we landed at our +encampment of the seventh of June, to gum the canoe and dry our clothes: +we then re-embarked, and at half past five arrived at the place, where I +lost my book of memorandums, on the fourth of June, in which were +certain courses and distances between that day end the twenty-sixth of +May, which I had now an opportunity to supply. They were as follows: +North-North-West half a mile, East by North half a mile, North by East a +quarter of a mile, North-West by West a quarter of a mile, +West-South-West half a mile, North-West a mile and a quarter, +North-North-West three quarters of a mile, North by East half a mile, +North-West three quarters of a mile, West half a mile, North-West three +quarters of a mile, West-North-West one mile and a quarter, North three +quarters of a mile, West by North one quarter of a mile, North-West one +mile and an half, West-North-West half a mile, North-North-West three +quarters of a mile, West one quarter of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p331"></A>331}</SPAN>a mile, North-North-East half a +mile, North-North-West two miles, and North-West four miles.</p> + +<p>We were seven days in going up that part of the river which we came down +to-day; and it now swarmed, as it were, with beavers and wild fowl. +There was rain in the afternoon, and about sunset we took our station +for the night.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Monday, 19.</i>—We had some small rain throughout the night. Our +course to-day was South-South-West three quarters of a mile, +West-North-West half a mile, North half a mile, North-West by West three +quarters of a mile, North by West half a mile; a small river to the +left, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, West-North-West a +mile and an half, North-West by North four miles, a rivulet on the +right, West-North-West three quarters of a mile; a considerable river +from the left, North-North-West two miles, North half a mile, +West-North-West one mile and a half; a rivulet on the right, North-West +by West one mile and a quarter, West-North-West one mile, +West-South-West a quarter of a mile, North-North-West half a mile, +North-West half a mile, West-South-West three quarters of a mile, +North-West by West three miles, West-South-West three quarters of a +mile, North-West by West one mile; a small river on the right, +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p332"></A>332}</SPAN>South-West a quarter of a mile, West-North-West, islands, four miles and +a half, a river on the left, North half a mile, West a quarter of a +mile, North a quarter of a mile, North-West by West three quarters of a +mile, North-North-East three quarters of a mile, North-West by North +half a mile, West-North-West a mile and an half, and North-West by North +half a mile. The mountains were covered with fresh snow, whose showers +had dissolved in rain before they reached us. North-West three quarters +of a mile, South-West a quarter of a mile, North a mile and three +quarters, West-North-West a mile and a quarter, North-West a mile and a +half, North-North-West half a mile, West-North-West a quarter of a mile, +North half a mile; here the current was sleek: North-West by North half +a mile, North-West by West a quarter of a mile, North-North-West a +quarter of a mile, North-West by West one mile and a quarter, North half +a mile, North-East by North one mile and three quarters, South-West one +mile and a quarter, with an island, North by East one mile, North-West. +Here the other branch opened to us, at the distance of three quarters of +a mile.</p> + +<p>I expected from the slackness of the current in this branch, +that the Western one would be high, but I found it equally low. I had +every reason to believe that from the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p333"></A>333}</SPAN>upper part of this branch, the +distance could not be great to the country through which I passed when I +left the Great River; but it has since been determined otherwise by Mr. +J. Finlay, who was sent to explore it, and found its navigation soon +terminated by falls and rapids.</p> + +<p>The branches are about two hundred yards in breadth, and the water was +six feet lower than on our upward passage. Our course, after the +junction, was North-North-West one mile, the rapid North-East down it +three quarters of a mile, North by West one mile and a quarter, North by +East one mile and an half, East by South one mile, North-East two miles +and an half, East-North-East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet; East by +South one mile and an half, North-East two miles, East-North-East one +mile, North-North-East a quarter of a mile, North-East by East-half a +mile, East-South-East a quarter of a mile, East-North-East half a mile, +North-East two miles, North-East by East two miles and a quarter, +South-East by East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet from the left; East by +North a mile and an half, East by South one mile, East-North-East one +mile and three quarters; a river on the right; North-North-East three +quarters of a mile, North-East a mile and a half, North-East by East a +mile and a quarter, East-North-East half a mile, and North-East <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p334"></A>334}</SPAN>by North +half a mile. Here we landed at our encampment of the 27th of June, from +whence I dispatched a letter in an empty keg, as was mentioned in that +period of my journal, which set forth our existing state, progress, and +expectation.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Tuesday, 20.</i>—Though the weather was clear, we could not embark this +morning before five, as there was a rapid very near us, which required +daylight to run it, that we might not break our canoe on the rocks. The +baggage we were obliged to carry. Our course was North by East a mile +and an half, North-North-East a mile and a half down another rapid on +the West side; it requires great care to keep directly between the eddy +current, and that which was driving down with so much impetuosity. We +then proceeded North-North-West, a river from the right; a mile and a +quarter, North-North-East a mile and a half, a river from the left; +North one mile and three quarters, North-East two miles, North-East by +East two miles and a quarter, East by North one mile, North-East by East +four miles, a river from the left, and East by South a mile and a half. +Here was our encampment on the 26th of May, beyond which it would be +altogether superfluous for me to take the courses, as they are inserted +in their proper places.</p> + +<p>As we continued our voyage, our attention <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p335"></A>335}</SPAN>was attracted by the +appearance of an Indian encampment. We accordingly landed, and found +there had been five fires, and within that number of days, so that there +must have been some inhabitants in the neighbourhood, though we were not +so fortunate as to see them. It appeared that they had killed a number +of animals, and fled in a state of alarm, as three of their canoes were +left carelessly on the beach, and their paddles laying about in +disorder. We soon after came to the carrying-place called the Portage +de la Montagne de Roche. Here I had a meridian altitude, which made the +latitude 56. 3. 51. North.</p> + +<p>The water, as I have already observed, was much lower than when we came +up it, though at the same time the current appeared to be stronger from +this place to the forks; the navigation, however, would now be attended +with greater facility, as there is a stony beach all the way, so that +poles, or the towing-line, may be employed with the best effect, where +the current overpowers the use of paddles.</p> + +<p>We were now reduced to a very short allowance; the disappointment, +therefore, at not seeing any animals was proportioned to our exigencies, +as we did not possess at this time more than was sufficient to serve us +for two meals. I now dispatched Mr. Mackay <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p336"></A>336}</SPAN>and the Indians to proceed +to the foot of the rapids, and endeavour in their way to procure some +provisions, while I prepared to employ the utmost expedition in getting +there; having determined, notwithstanding the disinclination of my +people, from the recollection of what they had suffered in coming that +way, to return by the same route. I had observed, indeed, that the +water which had fallen fifteen feet perpendicular, at the narrow pass +below us, had lost much of its former turbulence.</p> + +<p>As dispatch was essential in procuring a supply of provisions, we did +not delay a moment in making preparation to renew our progress. Five of +the men began to carry the baggage, while the sixth and myself took the +canoe asunder, to cleanse her of the dirt, and expose her lining and +timbers to the air, which would render her much lighter. About sun-set +Mr. Mackay and our hunters returned with heavy burdens of the flesh of a +buffalo: though not very tender, it was very acceptable, and was the +only animal that they had seen, though the country was covered with +tracks of them, as well as of the moose-deer and the elk. The former +had done rutting, and the latter were beginning to run. Our people +returned, having left their loads mid-way on the carrying-place. My +companion and myself completed our undertaking, and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p337"></A>337}</SPAN>the canoe was ready +to be carried in the morning. A hearty meal concluded the day, and +every fear of future want was removed.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Wednesday, 21.</i>—When the morning dawned we set forwards, but as a +fire had passed through the portage, it was with difficulty we could +trace our road in many parts; and with all the exertion of which we were +capable, we did not arrive at the river till four in the afternoon. We +found almost as much difficulty in carrying our canoe down the mountain +as we had in getting it up; the men being not so strong as on the former +occasion, though they were in better spirits; and I was now enabled to +assist them, my ancle being almost well. We could not, however, proceed +any further till the following day, as we had the canoe to gum, with +several great and small poles to prepare; those we had left here having +been carried away by the water, though we had left them in a position +from fifteen to twenty feet above the water-mark, at that time. These +occupations employed us till a very late hour.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Thursday, 22.</i>—The night was cold, and though the morning was fine +and clear, it was seven before we were in a state of preparation to +leave this place, sometimes driving with the current, and at other times +shooting the rapids. The latter had lost much of their former strength; +but we, nevertheless, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p338"></A>338}</SPAN>thought it necessary to land very frequently, in +order to examine the rapids before we could venture to run them. +However, the canoe being light, we very fortunately passed them all, and +at noon arrived at the place where I appointed to meet Mr. Mackay and +the hunters: there we found them, with plenty of excellent fat meat, +ready roasted, as they had killed two elks within a few hundred yards of +the spot where we then were. When the men had satisfied their +appetites, I sent them for as much of the meat as they could carry. In +coming hither, Mr. Mackay informed me, that he and the hunters kept +along the high land, and did not see or cross the Indian path. At the +same time, there can be no doubt but the road from this place to the +upper part of the rapids is to be preferred to that which we came, both +for expedition and safety.</p> + +<p>After staying here about an hour and a half, we proceeded with the +stream, and landed where I had forgotten my pipe-tomahawk and seal, on +the eighteenth of May. The former of them I now recovered. + +On leaving the mountains we saw animals grazing in every direction. In +passing along an island, we fired at an elk, and broke its leg; and as it +was now time to encamp, we landed; when the hunters pursued the wounded +animal, which had crossed over to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p339"></A>339}</SPAN>the main land, but could not get up +the bank. We went after it, therefore, in the canoe, and killed it. To +give some notion of our appetites, I shall state the elk, or at least +the carcase of it, which we brought away, to have weighed two hundred +and fifty pounds; and as we had taken a very hearty meal at one o'clock, +it might naturally be supposed that we should not be very voracious at +supper; nevertheless, a kettle full of the elk flesh was boiled and +eaten, and that vessel replenished and put on the fire. All that +remained, with the bones, &c. was placed, after the Indian fashion, +round the fire to roast, and at ten next morning the whole was consumed +by ten persons and a large dog, who was allowed his share of the +banquet. This is no exaggeration; nor did any inconvenience result from +what may be considered as an inordinate indulgence.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Friday, 23.</i>—We were on the water before daylight; and when the sun +rose, a beautiful country appeared around us, enriched and animated by +large herds of wild cattle. The weather was now so warm, that to us, +who had not of late been accustomed to heat, it was overwhelming and +oppressive. In the course of this day we killed a buffalo and a bear; +but we were now in the midst of abundance, and they were not +sufficiently fat to satisfy our fastidious appetites, so we left <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p340"></A>340}</SPAN>them +where they fell. We landed for the night, and prepared ourselves for +arriving at the Fort on the following day.</p> + + +<br><p> <i>Saturday, 24.</i>—The weather was the same as yesterday, and the +country increasing in beauty; though as we approached the Fort, the +cattle appeared proportionably to diminish. We now landed at two lodges +of Indians, who were as astonished to see us, as if we had been the +first white men whom they had ever beheld. When we had passed these +people, not an animal was to be seen on the borders of the river.</p> + +<p>At length, as we rounded a point, and came in view of the Fort, we threw +out a flag, and accompanied it with a general discharge of our +fire-arms; while the men were in such spirits, and made such an active +use of their paddles, that we arrived before the two men whom we left +here in the spring, could recover their senses to answer us. Thus we +landed at four in the afternoon, at the place which we left on the ninth +of May.<br> + +——Here my voyages of discovery terminate.<br> + + +Their toils and their dangers, their solicitudes and sufferings, have +not been exaggerated in my description. On the contrary, in many +instances, language has failed me in the attempt to describe them. I +received, however, the reward of my labours, for they were crowned with +success.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p341"></A>341}</SPAN>As I have now resumed the character of a trader I shall not trouble my +readers with any subsequent concern, but content myself with the closing +infomation, that after an absence of eleven months, I arrived at Fort +Chepewyan, where I remained, for the purposes of trade, during the +succeeding winter.</p> + +<hr width="20%"> + +<p>The following general, but short, geographical view of the country may +not be improper to close this work, as well as some remarks on the +probable advantages that may be derived from advancing the trade of it, +under proper regulations, and by the spirit of commercial enterprize.</p> + +<p>By supposing a line from the Atlantic, East, to the Pacific, West, in +the parallel of forty-five degrees of North latitude, it will, I think, +nearly describe the British territories in North America. For I am of +opinion, that the extent of the country to the South of this line, which +we have a right to claim, is equal to that to the North of it, which may +be claimed by other powers.</p> + +<p>The outline of what I shall call the first division, is along that track +of country which runs from the head of James-Bay, in about latitude +51. North, along the Eastern coast, as far North as to, and through +Hudson's Straits, round by Labrador; continuing on <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p342"></A>342}</SPAN>the Atlantic coast, +on the outside of the great islands, in the gulf of St. Laurence, to the +river St. Croix, by which it takes its course, to the height of land +that divides the waters emptying themselves into the Atlantic, from +those discharged into the river St. Laurence. Then following these +heights, as the boundary between the British possessions, and those of +the American States, it makes an angle Westerly until it strikes the +discharge of Lake Champlain, in latitude 45. North, when it keeps a +direct West line till it strikes the river St. Laurence, above Lake +St. Francis, where it divides the Indian village St. Rigest; from whence +it follows the centre of the waters of the great river St. Laurence: it +then proceeds through Lake Ontario, the connection between it and Lake +Erie; through the latter, and its chain of connection, by the river +Detroit, as far South as latitude 42. North, and then through the lake +and river St. Clair, as also lake Huron, through which it continues to +the strait of St. Mary, latitude 46. 30. North; from which we will +suppose the line to strike to the East of North, to the head of James +Bay, in the latitude already mentioned.</p> + +<p>Of this great tract, more than half is represented as barren and broken, +displaying a surface of rock and fresh water lakes, with a very +scattered and scanty proportion of soil. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p343"></A>343}</SPAN>Such is the whole coast of +Labrador, and the land, called East Main to the West of the heights, +which divide the waters running into the river and gulf of St. Laurence, +from those flowing into Hudson's Bay. It is consequently inhabited only +by a few savages, whose numbers are proportioned to the scantiness of +the soil; nor is it probable, from the same cause, that they will +encrease. The fresh and salt waters, with a small quantity of game, +which the few, stinted woods afford, supply the wants of nature; from +whence, to that of the line of the American boundary, and the Atlantic +Ocean, the soil, wherever cultivation has been attempted, has yielded +abundance; particularly on the river St. Laurence, from Quebec upwards, +to the line of boundary already mentioned; but a very inconsiderable +proportion of it has been broken by the plough-share.</p> + +<p>The line of the second division may be traced from that of the first at +St. Mary's, from which also the line of American boundary runs, and is +said to continue through Lake Superior (and through a lake called the +Long Lake which has no existence), to the Lake of the Woods, in latitude +49. 37. North, from whence it is also said to run West to the +Mississippi, which it may do, by giving it a good deal of Southing, but +not otherwise; as the source of that river does not extend <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p344"></A>344}</SPAN>further North +than latitude 47. 38. North, where it is no more than a small brook; +consequently, if Great Britain retains the right of entering it along +the line of division, it must be in a lower latitude, and wherever that +may be, the line must be continued West, till it terminates in the +Pacific Ocean, to the South of the Columbia. This division is then +bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the West, the Frozen Sea and Hudson's +Bay on the North and East. The Russians, indeed, may claim with +justice, the islands and coast from Behring's Straits to Cook's Entry.</p> + +<p>The whole of this country will long continue in the possession of its +present inhabitants, as they will remain contented with the produce of +the woods and waters for their support, leaving the earth, from various +causes, in its virgin state. The proportion of it that is fit for +cultivation, is very small and is still less in the interior parts; it +is also very difficult of access; and whilst any land remains +uncultivated to the South of it, there will be no temptation to settle +it. Besides, its climate is not in general sufficiently genial to bring +the fruits of the earth to maturity. It will also be an asylum for the +descendants of the original inhabitants of the country to the South, who +prefer the modes of life of their forefathers, to the improvements of +civilization. Of this disposition there is a recent <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p345"></A>345}</SPAN>instance. A small +colony of Iroquois emigrated to the banks of the Saskatchiwine, in 1799, +who had been brought up from their infancy under the Romish +missionaries, and instructed by them at a village within nine miles of +Montreal.</p> + +<p>A further division of this country is marked by a ridge of high land, +rising, as it were, from the coast of Labrador, and running nearly +South-West to the source of the Utawas River, dividing the waters going +either way to the river and gulf of St. Laurence and Hudson's Bay, as +before observed. From thence it stretches to the North of West, to the +Northward of Lake Superior, to latitude 50. North, and longitude +98. West, when it forks from the last course at about South-West, and +continues the same division of waters until it passes North of the +source of the Mississippi. The former course runs, as has been +observed, in a North-West direction, until it strikes the river Nelson, +separating the waters that discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, which +forms part of the said river, and those that also empty themselves into +Hudson's Bay, by the Albany, Severn, and Hay's or Hill's Rivers. From +thence it keeps a course of about West-North-West, till it forms the +banks of the Missinipi or Churchill River, at Portage de Traite, +latitude 55. 25. North. It now continues in a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p346"></A>346}</SPAN>Western direction, +between the Saskatchiwine and the source of the Missinipi, or Beaver +River, which it leaves behind, and divides the Saskatchiwine from the +Elk River; when, leaving those also behind, and pursuing the same +direction it leads to the high land that lies between the Unjigah and +Tacoutche rivers, from whence it may be supposed to be the same ridge. +From the head of the Beaver River, on the West, the same kind of high +ground runs to the East of North, between the waters of the Elk and +Missinipi River forming the Portage la Loche, and continuing on to the +latitude 57. 15. North, dividing the waters that run to Hudson's Bay +from those going to the North Sea: from thence its course is nearly +North, when an angle runs from it to the North of the Slave Lake, till +it strikes Mackenzie's River.</p> + +<p>The last, but by no means the least, is the immense ridge, or succession +of ridges of stony mountains, whose Northern extremity dips in the North +Sea, in latitude 70. North, and longitude 135. West, running nearly +South-East, and begins to be parallel with the coast of the Pacific +Ocean, from Cook's entry, and so onwards to the Columbia. From thence +it appears to quit the coast, but still continuing, with less elevation, +to divide the waters of the Atlantic from those which run into the +Pacific. In those snow-clad <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p347"></A>347}</SPAN>mountains rises the Mississippi, if we +admit the Missouri to be its source, which flows into the Gulph of +Mexico; the River Nelson, which is lost in Hudson's Bay; Mackenzie's +River, that discharges itself into the North Sea; and the Columbia +emptying itself into the Pacific Ocean. The great River St. Laurence +and Churchill River, with many lesser ones, derive their sources far +short of these mountains. It is, indeed, the extension of these +mountains so far South on the sea coast, that prevents the Columbia from +finding a more direct course to the sea, as it runs obliquely with the +coast upwards of eight degrees of latitude before it mingles with the +ocean.</p> + +<p>It is further to be observed, that these mountains, from Cook's entry to +the Columbia, extend from six to eight degrees in breadth Easterly; and +that along their Eastern skirts is a narrow strip of very marshy, boggy, +and uneven ground, the outer edge of which produces coal and bitumen: +these I saw on the banks of Mackenzie's River, as far North as latitude +66. I also discovered them in my second journey, at the commencement of +the rocky mountains in 56. North latitude, and 120. West longitude; and +the same was observed by Mr. Fidler, one of the servants of the Hudson's +Bay Company, at the source of the South branch of the Saskatchiwine, in +about latitude 52 North, and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p348"></A>348}</SPAN>longitude 112. 30. West.<a name="v2-c12-hl1" href="#v2-c12-hr1">[1]</a> Next to this +narrow belt are immense plains, or meadows, commencing in a point at +about the junction of the River of the Mountain with Mackenzie's River, +widening as they continue East and South, till they reach the Red River +at its confluence with the Assiniboin River, from whence they take a +more Southern direction, along the Mississippi towards Mexico. +Adjoining to these plains is a broken country, composed of lakes, rocks, +and soil.</p> + +<p>From the banks of the rivers running through the plains, there appeared +to ooze a saline fluid, concreting into a thin, scurf on the grass. +Near that part of the Slave River where it first loses the name of Peace +River, and along the extreme edge of these plains, are very strong salt +springs, which in the summer concrete and crystallize in great +quantities. About the Lake Dauphin, on the South-West side of Lake +Winipic, are also many salt ponds, but it requires a regular process to +form salt from them. Along the West banks of the former is to be seen, +at intervals, and traced in the line of the direction of the plains, a +soft rock of lime-stone, in thin and nearly horizontal stratas, +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p349"></A>349}</SPAN>particularly on the Beaver, Cedar, Winipic, and Superior lakes, as also +in the beds of the rivers crossing that line. It is also remarkable +that, at the narrowest part of Lake Winipic, where it is not more than +two miles in breadth, the West side is faced with rocks of this stone +thirty feet perpendicular; while, on the East side, the rocks are more +elevated, and of a dark-grey granite.</p> + +<p>The latter is to be found throughout the whole extent North of this +country, to the coast of Hudson's Bay, and as I have been informed, +along that coast, onwards to the coast of Labrador; and it may be +further observed, that between these extensive ranges of granite and +lime-stone are found all the great lakes of this country.</p> + +<p>There is another very large district which must not be forgotten; and +behind all the others in situation as well as in soil, produce, and +climate. This comprehends the tract called the Barren Grounds, which is +to the North of a line drawn from Churchill, along the North border of +the Rein-Deer Lake, to the North of the Lake of the Hills and Slave +Lake, and along the North side of the latter to the rocky mountains, +which terminate in the North Sea, latitude 70. North, and longitude +135. West; in the whole extent of which no trees are visible, except a +few stinted ones, scattered along its rivers, and with <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p350"></A>350}</SPAN>scarce anything +of surface that can be called earth; yet, this inhospitable region is +inhabited by a people who are accustomed to the life it requires. Nor +has bountiful nature withheld the means of subsistence; the rein deer, +which supply both food and clothing, are satisfied with the produce of +the hills, though they bear nothing but a short curling moss, on a +species of which, that grows on the rocks, the people themselves subsist +when famine invades them. Their small lakes are not furnished with a +great variety of fish, but such as they produce are excellent, which, +with hares and partridges, form a proportion of their food.</p> + +<p>The climate must necessarily be severe in such a country as we have +described, and which displays so large a surface of fresh water. Its +severity is extreme on the coast of Hudson's Bay, and proceeds from its +immediate exposure to the North West winds that blow off the Frozen +Ocean.</p> + +<p>These winds, in crossing directly from the bay over Canada and +the British dominions on the Atlantic, as well as over the Eastern +States of North America to that ocean, (where they give to those +countries a length of winter astonishing to the inhabitants of the same +latitudes in Europe), continue to retain a great degree of force and +cold in their passage, even over the Atlantic, particularly at +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p351"></A>351}</SPAN>the time +when the sun is in its Southern declination. The same winds which come +from the Frozen Ocean, over the barren grounds, and across frozen lakes +and snowy plains, bounded by the rocky mountains, lose their frigid +influence, as they travel in a Southern direction, till they get to the +Atlantic Ocean, where they close their progress. Is not this a +sufficient cause for the difference between the climate in America, and +that of the same latitude in Europe?</p> + +<p>It has been frequently advanced, that the clearing away the wood has had +an astonishing influence in meliorating the climate in the former: but I +am not disposed to assent to that opinion in the extent which it +proposes to establish, when I consider the very trifling proportion of +the country cleared, compared with the whole. The employment of the axe +may have had some inconsiderable effect; but I look to other causes. I +myself observed in a country, which was in an absolute state of nature, +that the climate is improving; and this circumstance was confirmed to me +by the native inhabitants of it. Such a change, therefore, must proceed +from some predominating operation in the system of the globe which is +beyond my conjecture, and, indeed, above my comprehension, and may, +probably, in the course, of time, give to America the climate of Europe. +It is well known, indeed, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p352"></A>352}</SPAN> +that the waters are decreasing there, and that +many lakes are draining and filling up by the earth which is carried +into them from the higher lands by the rivers: and this may have some +partial effect.</p> + +<p>The climate on the West coast of America assimilates much more to that +of Europe in the same latitudes: I think very little difference will be +found, except such as proceed from the vicinity of high mountains +covered with snow. This is an additional proof that the difference in +the temperature of the air proceeds from the cause already mentioned.</p> + +<p>Much has been said, and much more still remains to be said on the +peopling of America.—On this subject I shall confine myself to one or +two observations, and leave my readers to draw their inferences from +them.</p> + +<p>The progress of the inhabitants of the country immediately under our +observation, which is comprised within the line of latitude 45. North, +is as follows: that of the Esquimaux, who possess the sea coast from the +Atlantic through Hudson's Straits and Bay, round to Mackenzie's River +(and I believe further), is known to be Westward; they never quit the +coast, and agree in appearance, manners, language, and habits with the +inhabitants of Greenland. The different tribes whom I describe under +the name of Algonquins and Knisteneaux, but originally <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p353"></A>353}</SPAN>the same people, +were the inhabitants of the Atlantic coast, and the banks of the river +St. Laurence and adjacent countries: their progress is Westerly, and +they are even found West and North as far as Athabasca. On the +contrary, the Chepewyans, and the numerous tribes who speak their +language, occupy the whole space between the Knisteneaux country and +that of the Esquimaux, stretching behind the natives of the coast of the +Pacific, to latitude 52. North, on the river Columbia. Their progress +is Easterly, and, according to their own traditions, they came from +Siberia; agreeing in dress and manner with the people now found upon the +coast of Asia.</p> + +<p>Of the inhabitants of the coast of the Pacific Ocean we know little more +than that they are stationary there. The Nadowasis or Assiniboins, as +well as the different tribes not particularly described, inhabiting the +plains on and about the source and banks of the Saskatchiwine and +Assiniboin rivers, are from the Southward, and their progress is +North-West.</p> + +<hr width="20%"> +<p>The discovery of a passage by sea, North-East or North West from the +Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, has for many years excited the attention +of governments, and encouraged <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p354"></A>354}</SPAN>the enterprising spirit of individuals. +The non-existence, however, of any such practical passage being at +length determined, the practicability of a passage through the +continents of Asia and America becomes an object of consideration. The +Russians, who first discovered, that, along the coasts of Asia no useful +or regular navigation existed, opened an interior communication by +rivers, &c., and through that long and wide-extended continent, to the +strait that separates Asia from America, over which they passed to the +adjacent islands and continent of the latter. Our situation, at length, +is in some degree similar to theirs: the non-existence of a practicable +passage by sea and the existence of one through the continent, are +clearly proved; and it requires only the countenance and support of the +British Government, to increase in a very ample proportion this national +advantage, and secure the trade of that country to its subjects.</p> + +<p>Experience, however, has proved, that this trade, from its very nature +cannot be carried on by individuals. A very large capital, or credit, +or indeed both, is necessary, and consequently an association of men of +wealth to direct, with men of enterprise to act, in one common interest, +must be formed on such principles, as that in due time the latter may +succeed the former, in continual and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p355"></A>355}</SPAN>progressive succession. Such was +the equitable and successful mode adopted by the merchants from Canada, +which has been already described.</p> + +<p>The junction of such a commercial association with the Hudson's Bay +Company, is the important measure which I would propose, and the trade +might then be carried on with a very superior degree of advantage, both +private and public, under the privilege of their charter, and would +prove, in fact, the complete fulfilment of the conditions, on which it +was first granted.</p> + +<p>It would be an equal injustice to either party to be excluded from the +option of such an undertaking; for if the one has a right by charter, +has not the other a right by prior possession, as being successor to the +subjects of France, who were exclusively possessed of all the then known +parts of this country, before Canada was ceded to Great Britain, except +the coast of Hudson's Bay, and having themselves been the discoverers of +a vast extent of country since added to his Majesty's territories, even +to the Hyperborean and the Pacific Oceans?</p> + +<p>If, therefore, that company should decline, or be averse to engage in, +such an extensive, and perhaps hazardous undertaking, it would not, +surely, be an unreasonable proposal to them, from government, to give up +a right <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p356"></A>356}</SPAN>which they refuse to exercise, on allowing them a just and +reasonable indemnification of their stock, regulated by the average +dividends of a certain number of years, or the actual price at which +they transfer their stock.</p> + +<p>By enjoying the privilege of the company's charter, though but for a +limited period, there are adventurers who would be willing, as they are +able, to engage in, and carry on the proposed commercial undertaking, as +well as to give the most ample and satisfactory security to government +for the fulfilment of its contract with the company. It would, at the +same time, be equally necessary to add a similar privilege of trade on +the Columbia River, and its tributary waters.</p> + +<p>If, however, it should appear, that the Hudson's Bay Company have an +exclusive right to carry on their trade as they think proper, and +continue it on the narrow scale, and with so little benefit to the +public as they now do; if they should refuse to enter into a +co-operative junction with others, what reasonable cause can they assign +to government for denying the navigation of the bay to Nelson's River: +and, by its waters, a passage to and from the interior country, for the +use of the adventurers, and for the sole purpose of transport, under the +most severe and binding restrictions not to interfere with their trade +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p357"></A>357}</SPAN>on the coast, and the country between it and the actual establishments +of the Canadian traders.<a name="v2-c12-hl2" href="#v2-c12-hr2">[2]</a></p> + +<p>By these waters that discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay at Port +Nelson, it is proposed to carry on the trade to their source, at the +head of the Saskatchiwine River, which rises in the Rocky Mountains, not +eight degrees of longitude from the Pacific Ocean. The Tacoutche or +Columbia River flows also from the same mountains, and discharges itself +likewise in the Pacific, in latitude 46. 20. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p358"></A>358}</SPAN>Both of them are capable +of receiving ships at their mouths, and are navigable throughout for +boats.</p> + +<p>The distance between these waters is only known from the report of the +Indians. If, however, this communication should prove inaccessible, the +route I pursued, though longer, in consequence of the great angle it +makes to the North, will answer every necessary purpose. But whatever +course may be taken from the Atlantic, the Columbia is the line of +communication from the Pacific Ocean, pointed out by nature, as it is +the only navigable river in the whole extent of Vancouver's minute +survey of that coast: its banks also form the first level country in all +the Southern extent of continental coast from Cook's entry, and, +consequently, the most Northern situation fit for colonization, and +suitable to the residence of a civilized people. By opening this +intercourse between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and forming regular +establishments through the interior, and at both extremes, as well as +along the coasts and islands, the entire command of the fur trade of +North America might be obtained, from latitude 48. North to the pole, +except that portion of it which the Russians have in the Pacific. To +this may be added the fishing in both seas, and the markets of the four +quarters of the globe. Such would be the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p359"></A>359}</SPAN>field for commercial +enterprise, and incalculable would be the produce of it, when supported +by the operations of that credit and capital which Great Britain so +pre-eminently possesses. Then would this country begin to be +remunerated for the expences it has sustained in discovering and +surveying the coast of the Pacific Ocean, which is at present left to +American adventurers, who without regularity or capital, or the desire +of conciliating future confidence, look altogether to the interest of +the moment. They, therefore, collect all the skins they can procure, +and in any manner that suits them, and having exchanged them at Canton +for the produce of China, return to their own country. Such +adventurers, and many of them, as I have been informed, have been very +successful, would instantly disappear from before a well-regulated +trade.</p> + +<p>It would be very unbecoming in me to suppose for a moment, that the +East-India Company would hesitate to allow those privileges to their +fellow-subjects which are permitted to foreigners in a trade, that is so +much out of the line of their own commerce, and therefore cannot be +injurious to it. + +Many political reasons, which it is not necessary here +to enumerate, must present themselves to the mind of every man +acquainted with the enlarged system and capacities of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p360"></A>360}</SPAN>British commerce +in support of the measure which I have very briefly suggested, as +promising the most important advantages to the trade of the united +kingdoms.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c12-hr1" href="#v2-c12-hl1">[1]</a> Bitumen is also found on the coast of the Slave Lake, in latitude +60. North, near its discharge by Mackenzie's River; and also near the +forks of the Elk River.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="v2-c12-hr2" href="#v2-c12-hl2">[2]</a> Independent of the prosecution of this great object, I conceive, +that the merchants from Canada are entitled to such an indulgence (even +if they should be considered as not possessing a rightful claim), in +order that they might be enabled to extend their trade beyond their +present limits, and have it in their power to supply the natives with a +larger quantity of useful articles; the enhanced value of which, and the +present difficulty of transporting them, will be fully comprehended, +when I relate, that the tract of transport occupies an extent of from +three to four thousand miles, through upwards of sixty large fresh water +lakes, and numerous rivers; and that the means of transport are slight +bark canoes. It must also be observed, that those waters are +intercepted by more than two hundred rapids, along which the articles of +merchandise are chiefly carried on men's backs, and over a hundred and +thirty carrying-places, from twenty-five paces to thirteen miles in +length where the canoes and cargoes proceed by the same toilsome and +perilous operations.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<p style=text-align:center>THE END</p> + + +<br><p><i>It is to be observed, that the Courses throughout the Journals are +taken by</i> Compass, <i>and that the </i>Variation<i> must be considered.</i></p> +<br><br><br><br><br> + +<p class="noindent">[<a name="tnote1" href="#tref1">Transcriber's Note 1</a>: The date of + this journal entry was given as <i>Wednesday, 12</i> in this + edition. It has been corrected to be in agreement with context and + with other editions.]</p> + +<p class="noindent">[<a name="tnote2" href="#tref2">Transcriber's Note 2</a>: The date + of this journal entry was located incorrectly in the text in this + edition. It has been moved to the correct location here.]</p> + +<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages from Montreal Through the +Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793, by Alexander Mackenzie + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL II *** + +***** This file should be named 35659-h.htm or 35659-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/6/5/35659/ + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793 + Vol. II + +Author: Alexander Mackenzie + +Release Date: March 22, 2011 [EBook #35659] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL II *** + + + + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + + + + +VOYAGES from MONTREAL +THROUGH THE CONTINENT of NORTH AMERICA + +TO THE +FROZEN and PACIFIC OCEANS +IN 1789 and 1793 + +WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE RISE +AND STATE OF THE FUR TRADE + +By + +ALEXANDER MACKENZIE + + +WITH MAP + + +IN TWO VOLUMES + +VOL. II. + + +NEW YORK +A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY +1903 + + + + +Registered at the +Library of Congress, August, 1902 +A. S. BARNES & COMPANY + + + + +Table of Contents. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Removed from the tent to the house. Build habitations + for the people. The hardships they suffer. Violent + hurricane. Singular circumstances attending + it. The commencement of the new year. An + Indian cured of a dangerous wound. State of + the weather. Curious customs among the Indians, + on the death of a relation. Account of a + quarrel. An Indian's reasoning on it. Murder + of one of the Indians. The cause of it. Some + account of the Rocky Mountain Indians. Curious + circumstance respecting a woman in labour, etc. A + dispute between two Indians, which arose from + gaming. An account of one of their games. Indian + superstition. Mildness of the season. The Indians + prepare snow shoes. Singular customs. Further + account of their manners. The slavish state of the + women. Appearance of spring. Dispatch canoes + with the trade to Fort Chepewyan. Make preparations + for the voyage of discovery. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Proceed on the voyage of discovery. Beautiful + scenery. The canoe too heavily laden. The + country in a state of combustion. Meet with a + hunting party. State of the river, etc. Meet + with Indians. See the tracks of bears, and one of + their dens. Sentiment of an Indian. Junction of + the Bear River. Appearance of the country. State + of the river. Observe a fall of timber. Abundance + of animals. See some bears. Come in sight of the + rocky mountains. The canoe receives an injury and + is repaired. Navigation dangerous. Rapids and + falls. Succession of difficulties and dangers. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Continuation of difficulties and dangers. Discontents + among the people. State of the river and + its banks. Volcanic chasms in the earth. Dispatch + various persons to discover ways across the + mountain. Obstacles present themselves on all + sides. Preparations made to attempt the mountain. + Account of the ascent with the canoe and baggage. + The trees that are found there. Arrive at the + river. Extraordinary circumstances of it. Curious + hollows in the rocks. Prepare the canoe. Renew + our progress up the river. The state of it. Leave + some tokens of amity for the natives. The weather + very cold. Lost a book of my observations for + several days. Continue to proceed up the river. + Send a letter down the current in a rum-keg. + Came to the forks, and proceed up the Eastern + branch. Circumstances of it. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Continue our voyage. Heavy fog. The water + rises. Succession of courses. Progressive account + of this branch. Leave the canoe to proceed, + and ascend a hill to reconnoitre. Climb a tree to + extend my view of the country. Return to the + River. The canoe not arrived. Go in search of + it. Extreme heat, musquitoes, etc. Increasing anxiety, + respecting the canoe. It at length appears. Violent + storm. Circumstances of our progress. Forced + to haul the canoe up the stream by the branches + of trees. Succession of courses. Wild parsnips + along the river. Expect to meet with natives. Courses + continued. Fall in with some natives. Our + intercourse with them. Account of their dress, arms, + utensils, and manners, etc. New discouragements + and difficulties present themselves. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Continue the voyage. State of the river. Succession + of courses. Sentiment of the guide. Conical + mountain. Continuation of courses. Leave the main + branch. Enter another. Description of it. Saw + beaver. Enter a lake. Arrive at the upper source + of the Unjigah, or Peace River. Land, and cross + to a second lake. Local circumstances. Proceed + to a third lake. Enter a river. Encounter + various difficulties. In danger of being lost. The + circumstances of that situation described. Alarm + and dissatisfaction among the people. They + are at length composed. The canoe repaired. Roads + cut through woods. Pass morasses. The guide + deserts. After a succession of difficulties, dangers, + and toilsome marches, we arrive at the great river. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Rainy night. Proceed on the great river. Circumstances + of it. Account of courses. Come to rapids. Observe + several smokes. See a flight of white ducks. Pass + over a carrying-place with the canoe, etc. The + difficulties of that passage. Abundance + of wild onions. Re-embark on the river. See some + of the natives. They desert their camp and fly into + the woods. Courses continued. Kill a red deer, + etc. Circumstances of the river. Arrive at an Indian + habitation. Description of it. Account of a curious + machine to catch fish. Land to procure bark for the + purpose of constructing a new canoe. Conceal a + quantity of pemmican for provision on our + return. Succession of courses. Meet with some + of the natives. Our intercourse with them. Their + information respecting the river, and the country. + Description of those people. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Renew our voyage, accompanied by two of the natives. + Account of courses. State of the river. Arrive at a + subterranean house. See several natives. Brief + description of them. Account of our conference with + them. Saw other natives. Description of them. Their + conduct, etc. The account which they gave of the + country. The narrative of a female prisoner. The + perplexities of my situation. Specimen of the + language of two tribes. Change the plan of my + journey. Return up the river. Succession of dangers + and difficulties. Land on an island to build + another canoe. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Make preparations to build a canoe. Engage in that + important work. It proceeds with great expedition. + The guide who had deserted arrives with another + Indian. He communicates agreeable intelligence. They + take an opportunity to quit the island. Complete + the canoe. Leave the island, which was now named the + Canoe Island. Obliged to put the people on short + allowance. Account of the navigation. Difficult + ascent of a rapid. Fresh perplexities. Continue our + voyage up the river. Meet the guide and some of his + friends. Conceal some pemmican and other + articles. Make preparations for proceeding over + land. Endeavour to secure the canoe till our + return. Proceed on our journey. Various circumstances + of it. + + +CHAPTER IX. + +Continue our journey. Embark on a river. Come to a + weir. Dexterity of the natives in passing it. Arrive + at a village. Alarm occasioned among the natives. The + subsequent favourable reception, accompanied with a + banquet of ceremony. Circumstances of it. Description + of a village, its houses, and places of + devotion. Account of the customs, mode of living, and + superstition of the inhabitants. Description of the + chief's canoe. Leave the place, and proceed on + our voyage. + + +CHAPTER X. + +Renew our voyage. Circumstances of the river. + Land at the house of a chief. Entertained by + him. Carried down the river with great rapidity + to another house. Received with kindness. Occupations + of the inhabitants on its banks. Leave the canoe + at a fall. Pass over land to another village. + Some account of it. Obtain a view of an arm of + the sea. Lose our dog. Procure another canoe. + Arrive at the arm of the sea. Circumstances of + it. One of our guides returns home. + Coast along a bay. Some description of it. Meet + with Indians. Our communication with them. + Their suspicious conduct towards us. Pass onwards. + Determine the latitude and longitude. + Return to the river. Dangerous encounter with + the Indians. Proceed on our journey. + + +CHAPTER XI. + +Return up the river. Slow progress of the canoe, + from the strength of the current. The hostile + party of the natives precedes us. Impetuous conduct + of my people. Continue our very tedious + voyage. Come to some houses; received with + great kindness. Arrive at the principal, or Salmon + Village. Our present reception very different from + that we experienced on our former visit. + Continue our journey. Circumstances of it. + Find our dog. Arrive at the Upper, or Friendly + Village. Meet with a very kind reception. Some + further account of the manners and customs of + its inhabitants. Brief vocabulary of their language. + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Leave the Friendly Village. Attentions of the natives + at our departure. Stop to divide our provisions. + Begin to ascend the mountains. Circumstances of the + ascent. Journey continued. Arrive at the place from + whence we set out by land. Meet with Indians there. + Find the canoe, and all the other articles in a state + of perfect security and preservation. Means employed + to compel the restoration of articles which were + afterwards stolen. Proceed on our homeward bound + voyage. Some account of the natives on the river. + The canoe is run on a rock, etc. Circumstances + of the voyage. Enter the Peace River. Statement of + courses. Continue our route. Circumstances of it. + Proceed onwards in a small canoe, with an Indian, + to the lower fort, leaving the rest of the people + to follow me. Arrive at Fort Chepewyan. The voyage + concluded. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +DECEMBER 23, 1792. + +I this day removed from the tent into the house which had been erected +for me, and set all the men to begin the buildings intended for their +own habitation. Materials sufficient to erect a range of five houses +for them, of about seventeen by twelve feet, were already collected. It +would be considered by the inhabitants of a milder climate, as a great +evil, to be exposed to the weather at this rigorous season of the year, +but these people are inured to it, and it is necessary to describe in +some measure the hardships which they undergo without a murmur, in order +to convey a general notion of them. + +The men who were new with me, left this place in the beginning of last +May, and went to the Rainy Lake in canoes, laden with packs of fur, +which, from the immense length of the voyage, and other concurring +circumstances, is a most severe trial of patience and perseverance: +there they do not remain a sufficient time for ordinary repose, when +they take a load of goods in exchange, and proceed on their return, in a +great measure, day and night. They had been arrived near two months, +and, all that time, had been continually engaged in very toilsome +labour, with nothing more than a common shed to protect them from the +frost and snow. Such is the life which these people lead; and is +continued with unremitting exertion, till their strength is lost in +premature old age. + +The Canadians remarked, that the weather we had on the 25th, 26th, and +27th of this month, denoted such as we might expect in the three +succeeding months. On the 29th, the wind being at North-East, and the +weather calm and cloudy, a rumbling noise was heard in the air like +distant thunder, when the sky cleared away in the South-West; from +whence there blew a perfect hurricane, which lasted till eight. Soon +after it commenced, the atmosphere became so warm that it dissolved all +the snow on the ground; even the ice was covered with water, and had the +same appearance as when it is breaking up in the spring. From eight to +nine the weather became calm, but immediately after a wind arose from +the North-East with equal violence, with clouds, rain, and hail, which +continued throughout the night till the evening of the next day, when it +turned to snow. One of the people who wintered at Fort Dauphin in the +year 1780, when the small pox first appeared there, informed me, that +the weather there was of a similar description. + + +_January 1, 1793._--On the first day of January, my people, in +conformity to the usual custom, awoke me at the break of day with the +discharge of fire-arms, with which they congratulated the appearance of +the new year. In return, they were treated with plenty of spirits, and +when there is any flour, cakes are always added to their regales, which +was the case, on the present occasion. + +On my arrival here last fall, I found that one of the young Indians had +lost the use of his right hand by the bursting of a gun, and that his +thumb had been maimed in such a manner as to hang only by a small strip +of flesh. Indeed, when he was brought to me, his wound was in such an +offensive state, and emitted such a putrid smell, that it required all +the resolution I possessed to examine it. His friends had done every +thing in their power to relieve him; but as it consisted only in singing +about him, and blowing upon his hand, the wound, as may be well +imagined, had got into the deplorable state in which I found it. I was +rather alarmed at the difficulty of the case, but as the young man's +life was in a state of hazard, I was determined to risk my surgical +reputation, and accordingly took him under my care. I immediately +formed a poultice of bark, stripped from the roots of the spruce-fir, +which I applied to the wound, having first washed it with the juice of +the bark: this proved a very painful dressing: in a few days, however, +the wound was clean, and the proud flesh around it destroyed. I wished +very much in this state of the business to have separated the thumb from +the hand, which I well knew must be effected before the cure could be +performed; but he would not consent to that operation, till, by the +application of vitriol, the flesh by which the thumb was suspended, was +shrivelled almost to a thread. When I had succeeded in this object, I +perceived that the wound was closing rather faster than I desired. The +salve I applied on the occasion was made of the Canadian balsam, wax and +tallow dropped from a burning candle into water. In short, I was so +successful, that about Christmas my patient engaged in a hunting party, +and brought me the tongue of an elk: nor was he finally ungrateful. +When he left me I received the warmest acknowledgments, both from +himself and his relations with whom he departed, for my care of him. I +certainly did not spare my time or attention on the occasion, as I +regularly dressed his wound three times a day, during the course of a +month. + +On the 5th in the morning the weather was calm, clear, and very cold; +the wind blew from the South-West, and in the course of the afternoon it +began to thaw. I had already observed at Athabasca, that this wind +never failed to bring us clear mild weather, whereas, when it blew from +the opposite quarter, it produced snow. Here it is much more +perceptible, for if it blows hard South-West for four hours, a thaw is +the consequence, and if the wind is at North-East it brings sleet and +snow. To this cause it may be attributed, that there is now so little +snow in this part of the world. These warm winds come off the Pacific +Ocean, which cannot, in a direct line, be very far from us; the distance +being so short, that though they pass over mountains covered with snow, +there is not time for them to cool. + +There being several of the natives at the house at this time, one of +them, who had received an account of the death of his father, proceeded +in silence to his lodge, and began to fire off his gun. As it was +night, and such a noise being so uncommon at such an hour, especially +when it was so often repeated, I sent my interpreter to inquire into the +cause of it, when he was informed by the man himself, that this was a +common custom with them on the death of a near relation, and was a +warning to their friends not to approach, or intrude upon them, as they +were, in consequence of their loss, become careless of life. The chief, +to whom the deceased person was also related, appeared with his war-cap +on his head, which is only worn on these solemn occasions, or when +preparing for battle, and confirmed to me this singular custom of firing +guns, in order to express their grief for the death of relations and +friends.[1] The women alone indulge in tears on such occasions; the men +considering it as a mark of pusillanimity and a want of fortitude to +betray any personal tokens of sensibility or sorrow. + +The Indians informed me, that they had been to hunt at a large lake, +called by the Knisteneaux, the Slave Lake, which derived its name from +that of its original inhabitants, who were called Slaves. They +represented it as a large body of water, and that it lies about one +hundred and twenty miles due East from this place. It is well known to +the Knisteneaux, who are among the inhabitants of the plains on the +banks of the Saskatchiwine river; for formerly, when they used to come +to make war in this country, they came in their canoes to that lake, and +left them there; from thence, there is a beaten path all the way to the +Fork, or East branch of this river, which was their war-road. + + +_January 10._--Among the people who were now here, there were two +Rocky Mountain Indians, who declared, that the people to whom we had +given that denomination, are by no means entitled to it, and that their +country has ever been in the vicinity of our present situation. They +said, in support of their assertion, that these people were entirely +ignorant of those parts which are adjacent to the mountain, as well as +the navigation of the river; that the Beaver Indians had greatly +encroached upon them, and would soon force them to retire to the foot of +these mountains. They represented themselves as the only real natives +of that country then with me; and added, that the country, and that part +of the river that intervenes between this place and the mountains, bear +much the same appearance as that around us; that the former abounds with +animals, but that the course of the latter is interrupted, near, and in +the mountains, by successive rapids and considerable falls. These men +also informed me, that there is another great river towards the midday +sun, whose current runs in that direction, and that the distance from it +is not great across the mountains. + +The natives brought me plenty of furs. The small quantity of snow, at +this time, was particularly favourable for hunting the beaver, as from +this circumstance, those animals could, with greater facility, be traced +from their lodges to their lurking-places. + +On the 12th our hunter arrived, having left his mother-in-law, who was +lately become a widow with three small children, and in actual labour of +a fourth. Her daughter related this circumstance to the women here +without the least appearance of concern, though she represented her as +in a state of great danger, which probably might proceed from her being +abandoned in this unnatural manner. At the same time without any +apparent consciousness of her own barbarous negligence, if the poor +abandoned woman should die, she would most probably lament her with +great outcries, and, perhaps cut off one or two joints of her fingers as +tokens of her grief. The Indians, indeed, consider the state of a woman +in labour as among the most trifling occurrences of corporal pain to +which human nature is subject, and they may be, in some measure +justified in this apparent insensibility from the circumstances of that +situation among themselves. It is by no means uncommon in the hasty +removal of their camps from one position to another, for a woman to be +taken in labour, to deliver herself in her way, without any assistance +or notice from her associates in her journey, and to overtake them +before they complete the arrangements of their evening station, with her +new-born babe on her back. + +I was this morning threatened with a very unpleasant event, which, +however, I was fortunately able to control. Two young Indians being +engaged in one of their games, a dispute ensued, which rose to such a +height, that they drew their knives, and if I had not happened to have +appeared, they would I doubt not, have employed them to very bloody +purposes. So violent was their rage, that after I had turned them both +out of the house, and severely reprimanded them, they stood in the fort +for at least half an hour, looking at each other with a most vindictive +aspect, and in sullen silence. + +The game which produced this state of bitter enmity, is called that of +the Platter, from a principal article of it. The Indians play at it in +the following manner. + +The instruments of it consist of a platter, or dish, made of wood or +bark, and six round or square but flat pieces of metal, wood, or stone, +whose sides or surfaces are of different colours. These are put into +the dish, and after being for some time shaken together, are thrown into +the air, and received again into the dish with considerable dexterity; +when, by the number that are turned up of the same mark or colour, the +game is regulated. If there should be equal numbers, the throw is not +reckoned; if two or four, the platter changes hands. + +On the 13th, one of these people came to me, and presented in himself a +curious example of Indian superstition. He requested me to furnish him +with a remedy that might be applied to the joints of his legs and +thighs, of which he had, in a great measure lost the use for five +winters. This affliction he attributed to his cruelty about that time, +when having found a wolf with two whelps in an old beaver lodge, he set +fire to it and consumed them. + +The winter had been so mild, that the swans had but lately left us, and +at this advanced period there was very little snow on the ground: it +was, however, at this time a foot and a half in depth, in the environs +of the establishment below this, which is at the distance of about +seventy leagues. + +On the 28th the Indians were now employed in making their snow-shoes, as +the snow had not hitherto fallen in sufficient quantity to render them +necessary. + + +_February 2._--The weather now became very cold, and it froze so hard +in the night that my watch stopped; a circumstance that had never +happened to this watch since my residence in the country. + +There was a lodge of Indians here, who were absolutely starving with +cold and hunger. They had lately lost a near relation, and had +according to custom, thrown away every thing belonging to them, and even +exchanged the few articles of raiment which they possessed, in order, as +I presume, to get rid of every thing that may bring the deceased to +their remembrance. They also destroy every thing belonging to any +deceased person, except what they consign to the grave with the late +owner of them. We had some difficulty to make them comprehend that the +debts of a man who dies should be discharged, if he left any furs behind +him: but those who understand this principle of justice, and profess to +adhere it, never fail to prevent the appearance of any skins beyond such +as may be necessary to satisfy the debts of their dead relation. + +On the 8th I had an observation for the longitude. In the course of +this day one of my men, who had been some time with the Indians, came to +inform me that one of them had threatened to stab him; and on his +preferring a complaint to the man with whom he now lived, and to whom I +had given him in charge, he replied, that he had been very imprudent to +play and quarrel with the young Indians out of his lodge, where no one +would dare to come and quarrel with him; but that if he had lost his +life where he had been, it would have been the consequence of his own +folly. Thus, even among these children of nature, it appears that a +man's house is his castle, where the protection of hospitality is +rigidly maintained. + +The hard frost which had prevailed from the beginning of February +continued to the 16th of March, when the wind blowing from the +South-West, the weather became mild. + +On the 22d a wolf was so bold as to venture among the Indian lodges, and +was very near carrying off a child. + +I had another observation of Jupiter and his satellites for the +longitude. On the 13th some geese were seen, and these birds are always +considered as the harbingers of spring. On the first of April my +hunters shot five of them. This was a much earlier period than I ever +remember to have observed the visits of wild fowl in this part of the +world. The weather had been mild for the last fortnight, and there was +a promise of its continuance. On the 5th the snow had entirely +disappeared. + +At half past four this morning I was awakened to be informed that an +Indian had been killed. I accordingly hastened to the camp, where I +found two women employed in rolling up the dead body of a man, called +the White Partridge, in a beaver robe, which I had lent him. He had +received four mortal wounds from a dagger, two within the collar bone, +one in the left breast, and another in the small of the back, with two +cuts across his head. The murderer, who had been my hunter throughout +the winter, had fled; and it was pretended that several relations of the +deceased were gone in pursuit of him. The history of this unfortunate +event is as follows:-- + +These two men had been comrades for four years; the murderer had three +wives; and the young man who was killed, becoming enamoured of one of +them, the husband consented to yield her to him, with the reserved power +of claiming her as his property, when it should be his pleasure. + +This connection was uninterrupted for near three years, when, whimsical +as it may appear, the husband became jealous, and the public amour was +suspended. The parties, how ever, made their private assignations, +which caused the woman to be so ill treated by her husband, that the +paramour was determined to take her away by force; and this project +ended in his death. This is a very common practice among the Indians, +and generally terminates in very serious and fatal quarrels. + +In consequence of this event all the Indians went away in great apparent +hurry and confusion, and in the evening not one of them was to be seen +about the fort. + +The Beaver and Rocky Mountain Indians, who traded with us in this river, +did not exceed an hundred and fifty men, capable of bearing arms; two +thirds of whom call themselves Beaver Indians. The latter differ only +from the former, as they have, more or less, imbibed the customs and +manners of the Knisteneaux. As I have already observed, they are +passionately fond of liquor, and in the moments of their festivity will +barter any thing they have in their possession for it. + +Though the Beaver Indians made their peace with the Knisteneaux, at +Peace Point, as already mentioned, yet they did not secure a state of +amity from others of the same nation, who had driven away the natives of +the Saskatchiwine and Missinipy Rivers, and joined at the head water of +the latter, called the Beaver River: from thence they proceeded West by +the Slave Lake just described, on their war excursions, which they often +repeated, even till the Beaver Indians had procured arms, which was in +the year 1782. If it so happened that they missed them, they proceeded +Westward till they were certain of wreaking their vengeance on those of +the Rocky Mountain, who being without arms, became an easy prey to their +blind and savage fury. All the European articles they possessed, +previous to the year 1780, were obtained from the Knisteneaux and +Chepewyans, who brought them from Fort Churchill, and for which they +were made to pay an extravagant price. + +As late as the year 1786, when the first traders from Canada arrived on +the banks of this river, the natives employed bows and snares, but at +present very little use is made of the former, and the latter are no +longer known. They still entertain a great dread of their natural +enemies, but they are since become so well armed, that the others now +call them their allies. The men are in general of a comely appearance, +and fond of personal decoration. The women are of a contrary +disposition, and the slaves of the men: in common with all the Indian +tribes polygamy is allowed among them. They are very subject to +jealousy, and fatal consequences frequently result from the indulgence +of that passion. But notwithstanding the vigilance and severity which +is exercised by the husband, it seldom happens that a woman is without +her favourite, who, in the absence of the husband, exacts the same +submission, and practises the same tyranny. And so premature is the +tender passion, that it is sometimes known to invigorate so early a +period of life as the age of eleven or twelve years. The women are not +very prolific: a circumstance which may be attributed in a great +measure, to the hardships that they suffer for except a few small dogs, +they alone perform that labour which is allotted to beasts of burthen in +other countries. It is not uncommon, while the men carry nothing but a +gun, that their wives and daughters follow with such weighty burdens, +that if they lay them down they cannot replace them, and that is a +kindness which the men will not deign to perform; so that during their +journeys they are frequently obliged to lean against a tree for a small +portion of temporary relief. When they arrive at the place which their +tyrants have chosen for their encampment, they arrange the whole in a +few minutes, by forming a curve of poles, meeting at the top, and +expanding into circles of twelve or fifteen feet diameter at the bottom, +covered with dressed skins of the moose sewed together. During these +preparations, the men sit down quietly to the enjoyment of their pipes, +if they happen to have any tobacco. But notwithstanding this abject +state of slavery and submission, the women have a considerable influence +on the opinion of the men in every thing except their own domestic +situation. + +These Indians are excellent hunters, and their exercise in that capacity +is so violent as to reduce them in general to a very meagre appearance. +Their religion is of a very contracted nature, and I never witnessed any +ceremony of devotion which they had not borrowed from the Knisteneaux, +their feasts and fasts being in imitation of that people. They are more +vicious and warlike than the Chepewyans, from whence they sprang, though +they do not possess their selfishness, for while they have the means of +purchasing their necessaries, they are liberal and generous, but when +those are exhausted they become errant beggars: they are, however, +remarkable for their honesty, for in the whole tribe there were only two +women and a man who had been known to have swerved from that virtue, and +they were considered as objects of disregard and reprobation. They are +afflicted with but few diseases, and their only remedies consist in +binding the temples, procuring perspiration, singing, and blowing on the +sick person, or affected part. When death overtakes any of them, their +property, as I have before observed, is sacrificed and destroyed; nor is +there any failure of lamentation or mourning on such occasion: they who +are more nearly related to the departed person, black their faces, and +sometimes cut off their hair; they also pierce their arms with knives +and arrows. The grief of the females is carried to a still greater +excess; they not only cut their hair, and cry and howl, but they will +sometimes, with the utmost deliberation, employ some sharp instrument to +separate the nail from the finger, and then force back the flesh beyond +the first joint, which they immediately amputate. But this +extraordinary mark of affliction is only displayed on the death of a +favourite son, a husband, or a father. Many of the old women have so +often repeated this ceremony, that they have not a complete finger +remaining on either hand. The women renew their lamentations at the +graves of their departed relatives, for a long succession of years. +They appear, in common with all the Indian tribes, to be very fond of +their children, but they are as careless in their mode of swadling them +in their infant state, as they are of their own dress: the child is laid +down on aboard, of about two feet long, covered with a bed of moss, to +which it is fastened by bandages, the moss being changed as often as the +occasion requires. The chief of the nation had no less than nine wives, +and children in proportion. + +When traders first appeared among these people, the Canadians were +treated with the utmost hospitality and attention; but they have, by +their subsequent conduct, taught the natives to withdraw that respect +from them, and sometimes to treat them with indignity. They differ very +much from the Chepewyans and Knisteneaux, in the abhorrence they profess +of any carnal communication between their women and the white people. +They carry their love of gaming to excess; they will pursue it for a +succession of days and nights, and no apprehension of ruin, nor +influence of domestic affection, will restrain them from the indulgence +of it. They are a quick, lively, active people, with a keen, +penetrating, dark eye; and though they are very susceptible of anger, +are as easily appeased. The males eradicate their beards, and the +females their hair in every part, except their heads, where it is strong +and black, and without a curl. There are many old men among them, but +they are in general ignorant of the space in which they have been +inhabitants of the earth, though one of them told me that he recollected +sixty winters. + +An Indian in some measure explained his age to me, by relating that he +remembered the opposite hills and plains, now interspersed with groves +of poplars, when they were covered with moss, and without any animal +inhabitant but the rein-deer. By degrees, he said, the face of the +country changed to its present appearance, when the elk came from the +East, and was followed by the buffalo; the rein-deer then retired to the +long range of high lands that, at a considerable distance, run parallel, +with this river. + +On the 20th of April I had an observation of Jupiter and his satellites, +for the longitude, and we were now visited by our summer companions the +gnats and musquitoes. On the other side of the river, which was yet +covered with ice, the plains were delightful; the trees were budding, +and many plants in blossom. Mr. Mackay brought me a bunch of flowers of +a pink colour, and a yellow button, encircled with six leaves of a light +purple. The change in the appearance of nature was as sudden as it was +pleasing, for a few days only were passed away since the ground was +covered with snow. On the 25th the river was cleared of the ice. + +I new found that the death of the man called the White Partridge, had +deranged all the plans which I had settled with the Indians for the +spring hunting. They had assembled at some distance from the fort, and +sent an embassy to me, to demand rum to drink, that they might have an +opportunity of crying for their deceased brother. It would be +considered as an extreme degradation in an Indian to weep when sober, +but a state of intoxication sanctions all irregularities. On my +refusal, they threatened to go to war, which, from motives of interest +as well as humanity, we did our utmost to discourage; and as a second +message was brought by persons of some weight among these people, and on +whom I could depend, I thought it prudent to comply with the demand, on +an express condition, that they would continue peaceably at home. + +The month of April being now past, in the early part of which I was most +busily employed in trading with the Indians, I ordered our old canoes to +be repaired with bark, and added four new ones to them, when, with the +furs and provisions I had purchased, six canoes were loaded and +dispatched on the 8th of May, for Fort Chepewyan. I had, however, +retained six of the men, who agreed to accompany me on my projected +voyage of discovery. I also engaged my hunters, and closed the business +of the year for the company by writing my public and private dispatches. + +Having ascertained, by various observations, the latitude of this place +to be 56. 9. North, and longitude 117. 35. 15. West: on the 9th day of +May, I found, that my achrometer was one hour forty-six minutes slow to +apparent time; the mean going of it I had found to be twenty-two seconds +slow in twenty-four hours. Having settled this point, the canoe was put +into the water; her dimensions were twenty-five feet long within, +exclusive of the curves of stem and stern, twenty-six inches hold, and +four feet nine inches beam. At the same time she was so light, that two +men could carry her on a good road three or four miles without resting. +In this slender vessel, we shipped provisions, goods for presents, arms, +ammunition, and baggage, to the weight of three thousand pounds, and an +equipage of ten people; viz. Alexander Mackay, Joseph Landry, Charles +Ducette,[2] Francois Beaulieux, Baptist Bisson, Francois Courtois, and +Jaques Beauchamp, with two Indians, as hunters and interpreters. One of +them, when a boy, used to be so idle, that he obtained the reputable +name of Cancre, which he still possesses. With these persons I embarked +at seven in the evening. My winter interpreter, with another person, +whom I left here to take care of the fort, and supply the natives with +ammunition during the summer, shed tears on the reflection of those +dangers which we might encounter in our expedition, while my own people +offered up their prayers that we might return in safety from it. + + +[1] When they are drinking together, they frequently present their guns +to each other, when any of the parties have not other means of procuring +rum. On such an occasion they always discharge their pieces, as a +proof, I imagine, of their being in good order, and to determine the +quantity of liquor they may propose to get in exchange for them. + +[2]Joseph Landry and Charles Ducette were with me in my former voyage. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +MAY, 1793. + + _Thursday, 9._--We began our voyage with a course South by West +against a strong current one mile and three quarters, South-West by +South one mile, and landed before eight on an island for the night. + + +_Friday, 10._--The weather was clear and pleasant, though there was a +keenness in the air; and at a quarter past three in the morning we +continued our voyage, steering South-West three quarters of a mile, +South-West by South one mile and a quarter, South three quarters of a +mile, South-West by South one quarter of a mile, South-West by West one +mile, South-West by South three miles, South by West three quarters of a +mile, and South-West one mile. The canoe being strained from its having +been very heavily laden, became so leaky, that we were obliged to land, +unload, and gum it. As this circumstance took place about twelve, I had +an opportunity of taking an altitude, which made our latitude +55. 58. 48. + +When the canoe was repaired we continued our course, steering South-West +by West one mile and an half, when I had the misfortune to drop my +pocket-compass into the water; West half a mile, West-South-West four +miles and an half. Here, the banks are steep and hilly, and in some +parts undermined by the river. Where the earth has given way, the face +of the cliffs discovers numerous strata, consisting of reddish earth and +small stones, bitumen, and a greyish earth, below which, near the +water-edge, is a red stone. Water issues from most of the banks, and +the ground on which it spreads is covered with a thin white scurf, or +particles of a saline substance: there are several of these salt +springs. At half past six in the afternoon the young men landed, when +they killed an elk and wounded a buffalo. In this spot we formed our +encampment for the night. + +From the place which we quitted this morning, the West side of the river +displayed a succession of the most beautiful scenery I had ever beheld. +The ground rises at intervals to a considerable height, and stretching +inwards to a considerable distance: at every interval or pause in the +rise, there is a very gently-ascending space or lawn, which is alternate +with abrupt precipices to the summit of the whole, or, at least as far +as the eye could distinguish. This magnificent theatre of nature has +all the decorations which the trees and animals of the country can +afford it: groves of poplars in every shape vary the scene; and their +intervals are enlivened with vast herds of elks and buffaloes: the +former choosing the steeps and uplands, and the latter preferring the +plains. At this time the buffaloes were attended with their young ones +who were frisking about them: and it appeared that the elks would soon +exhibit the same enlivening circumstance. The whole country displayed +an exuberant verdure; the trees that bear a blossom were advancing fast +to that delightful appearance, and the velvet rind of their branches +reflecting the oblique rays of a rising or setting sun, added a splendid +gaiety to the scene, which no expressions of mine are qualified to +describe. The East side of the river consists of a range of high land +covered with the white spruce and the soft birch, while the banks abound +with the alder and the willow. The water continued to rise, and the +current being proportionately strong, we made a greater use of setting +poles than paddles. + + +_Saturday, 11._--The weather was overcast. With a strong wind a-head, +we embarked at four in the morning, and left all the fresh meat behind +us, but the portion which had been assigned to the kettle; the canoe +being already too heavily laden. Our course was West-South-West one +mile, where a small river flowed in from the East, named _Quiscatina +Sepy_, or River with the High Banks; West half a mile, South half a +mile, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, West one mile and a +quarter, South-West a quarter of a mile, South-South-West half a mile, +and West by South a mile and a half. Here I took a meridian altitude, +which gave 55. 56. 3. North latitude. We then proceeded West three +miles and a half, West-South-West, where the whole plain was on fire, +one mile, West one mile, and the wind so strong a-head, that it +occasioned the canoe to take in water, and otherwise impeded our +progress. Here we landed to take time, with the mean of three +altitudes, which made the watch slow 1. 42. 10. + +We now proceeded West-South-West one mile and a quarter, where we found +a chief of the Beaver Indians on a hunting party. I remained, however, +in my canoe, and though it was getting late, I did not choose to encamp +with these people, lest the friends of my hunters might discourage them +from proceeding on the voyage. We, therefore, continued our course, but +several Indians kept company with us, running along the bank, and +conversing with my people, who were so attentive to them, that they +drove the canoe on a stony flat, so that we were under the necessity of +landing to repair the damages, and put up for the night, though very +contrary to my wishes. My hunters obtained permission to proceed with +some of these people to their lodges, on the promise of being back by +the break of day; though I was not without some apprehension respecting +them. The chief, however, and another man, as well as several people +from the lodges, joined us, before we had completed the repair of the +canoe; and they made out a melancholy story, that they had neither +ammunition or tobacco sufficient for their necessary supply during the +summer. I accordingly referred him to the Fort, where plenty of those +articles were left in the care of my interpreter, by whom they would be +abundantly furnished, if they were active and industrious in pursuing +their occupations. I did not fail, on this occasion, to magnify the +advantages of the present expedition; observing, at the same time, that +its success would depend on the fidelity and conduct of the young men +who were retained by me to hunt. The chief also proposed to borrow my +canoe, in order to transport himself and family across the river; +several plausible reasons, it is true, suggested themselves for +resisting his proposition; but when I stated to him, that, as the canoe +was intended for a voyage of such consequence, no woman could be +permitted to be embarked in it, he acquiesced in the refusal. It was +near twelve at night when he took his leave, after I had gratified him +with a present of tobacco. + + +_Sunday, 12._--Some of the Indians passed the night with us, and I was +informed by them, that according to our mode of proceeding, we should, +in ten days, get as far as the rocky mountains. The young men now +returned, to my great satisfaction, and with the appearance of +contentment; though I was not pleased when they dressed themselves in +the clothes which I had given them before we left the Fort, as it +betrayed some latent design. + +At four in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, steering West three +miles, including one of our course yesterday, North-West by North four +miles, West two miles and a half, North-West by West a mile and a half, +North by East two miles, North-West by West one mile, and +North-North-West three miles. After a continuation of our course to the +North for a mile and a half, we landed for the night on an island where +several of the Indians visited us, but unattended by their women, who +remained in their camp, which was at some distance from us. + +The land on both sides of the river, during the two last days, is very +much elevated, but particularly in the latter part of it, and, on the +Western side, presents in different places, white, steep, and lofty +cliffs. Our view being confined by these circumstances, we did not see +so many animals as on the 10th. Between these lofty boundaries, the +river becomes narrow and in a great measure free from islands; for we +had passed only four: the stream, indeed, was not more than from two +hundred to three hundred yards broad; whereas before these cliffs +pressed upon it, its breadth was twice that extent and besprinkled with +islands. We killed an elk, and fired several shots at animals from the +canoe. + +The greater part of this band being Rocky Mountain Indians, I +endeavoured to obtain some intelligence of our intended route, but they +all pleaded ignorance, and uniformly declared, that they knew nothing of +the country beyond the first mountain: at the same time they were of +opinion, that, from the strength of the current and the rapids we should +not get there by water; though they did not hesitate to express their +surprise at the expedition we had already made. + +I inquired, with some anxiety, after an old man who had already given +me an account of the country beyond the limits of his tribe, and was +very much disappointed at being informed, that he had not been seen +for upwards of a moon. This man had been at war on another large +river beyond the Rocky Mountain, and described to me a fork of it +between the mountains; the Southern branch of which he directed me +to take; from thence, he said, there was a carrying-place of about +a day's march for a young man to get to the river. To prove the truth +of his relation, he consented, that his son, who had been with him in +those parts, should accompany me; and he accordingly sent him to the +fort some days before my departure; but the preceding night he deserted +with another young man, whose application to attend me as a hunter, +being refused, he persuaded the other to leave me. I now thought it +right to repeat to them what I had said to the chief of the first band, +respecting the advantages which would be derived from the voyage, +that the young men might be encouraged to remain with me; as without +them I should not have attempted to proceed. + + +_Monday, 13._--The first object that presented itself to me this +morning was the young man whom I have already mentioned, as having +seduced away my intended guide. At any other time or place, I should +have chastised him for his past conduct, but in my situation it was +necessary to pass over his offence, lest he should endeavour to exercise +the same influence over those who were so essential to my service. Of +the deserted he gave no satisfactory account, but continued to express +his wish to attend me in his place, for which he did not possess any +necessary qualifications. + +The weather was cloudy, with an appearance of rain; and the Indians +pressed me with great earnestness to pass the day with them, and hoped +to prolong my stay among them by assuring me that the winter yet +lingered in the rocky mountains; but my object was to lose no time, and +having given the chief some tobacco for a small quantity of meat, we +embarked at four, when my young men could not conceal their chagrin at +parting with their friends, for so long a period as the voyage +threatened to occupy. When I had assured them that in three moons we +should return to them, we proceeded on our course West-North-West half a +mile, West-South-West one mile and a half, West by North three miles, +North-West by West two miles and a half, South-West by West half a mile, +South-South-West a mile and a half, and South-West a mile and a half. +Here I had a meridian altitude, which gave 56. 17. 44. North latitude. + +The last course continued a mile and a half, South by West, three +quarters of a mile, South-West by South three miles and a half, and +West-South-West two miles and a half. Here the land lowered on both +sides, with an increase of wood, and displayed great numbers of animals. +The river also widened from three to five hundred yards, and was full of +islands and flats. Having continued our course three miles, we made for +the shore at seven, to pass the night. + +At the place from whence we proceeded this morning, a river falls in +from the North; there are also several islands, and many rivulets on +either side, which are too small to deserve particular notice. We +perceived along the river, tracks of large bears, some of which were +nine inches wide, and of a proportionate length. We saw one of their +dens, or winter-quarters, called _watee_, in an island, which was ten +feet deep, five feet high, and six feet wide; but we had not yet seen +one of those animals. The Indians entertain great apprehension of this +kind of bear, which is called the grisly bear, and they never venture to +attack it but in a party of at least three or four. Our hunters, though +they had been much higher than this part of our voyage, by land, knew +nothing of the river. One of them mentioned, that having been engaged +in a war expedition, his party on their return made their canoes at some +distance below us. The wind was North throughout the day, and at times +blew with considerable violence. + +The apprehensions which I had felt respecting the young men were not +altogether groundless, for the eldest of them told me that his uncle had +last night addressed him in the following manner:--"My nephew, your +departure makes my heart painful. The white people may be said to rob +us of you. They are about to conduct you into the midst of our enemies, +and you may nevermore return to us. Were you not with the Chief,[1] I +know not what I should do, but he requires your attendance, and you must +follow him." + + +_Tuesday, 14._--The weather was clear, and the air sharp, when we +embarked at half past four. Our course was South by West one mile and a +half, South-West by South half a mile, South-West. + +We here found it necessary to unload, and gum the canoe, in which +operation we lost an hour; when we proceeded on the last course one mile +and a half. I now took a meridian altitude, which gave 56. 1. 19. North +latitude, and continued to proceed West-South-West two miles and a half. +Here the Bear River which is of a large appearance, falls in from the +East; West three miles and an half, South-South-West one mile and an +half, and South-West four miles and an half, when we encamped upon an +island about seven in the evening. + +During the early part of the day, the current was not so strong as we +had generally found it, but towards the evening it became very rapid, +and was broken by numerous islands. We were gratified as usual, with +the sight of animals. The land on the West side is very irregular, but +has the appearance of being a good beaver country; indeed we saw some of +those animals in the river. Wood is in great plenty, and several +rivulets added their streams to the main river. A goose was the only +article of provision which we procured to-day. Smoke was seen, but at a +great distance before us. + + +_Wednesday, 15._--The rain prevented us from continuing our route till +past six in the morning, when our course was South-West by West three +quarters of a mile; at which time we passed a river on the left, West by +South two miles and a half. The bank was steep, and the current strong. +The last course continued one mile and a half, West-South-West two +miles, where a river flowed in from the right, West by South one mile +and a half, West-North-West one mile, and West by North two miles. Here +the land takes the form of an high ridge, and cut our course, which was +West for three miles, at right angles. We now completed the voyage of +this day. + +In the preceding night the water rose upwards of two inches, and had +risen in this proportion since our departure. The wind, which was +West-South-West, blew very hard throughout the day, and with the +strength of the current, greatly impeded our progress. The river, in +this part of it, is full of islands; and the land, on the South or left +side, is thick with wood. Several rivulets also fall in from that +quarter. At the entrance of the last river which we passed, there was a +quantity of wood, which had been cut down by axes, and some by the +beaver. This fall, however, was not made, in the opinion of my people, +by any of the Indians with whom we were acquainted. + +The land to the right is of a very irregular elevation and appearance, +composed in some places of clay, and rocky cliffs, and others exhibiting +stratas of red, green, and yellow colours. Some parts, indeed, offer a +beautiful scenery, in some degree similar to that which we passed on the +second day of our voyage, and equally enlivened with the elk and the +buffalo, who were feeding in great numbers, and unmolested by the +hunter. In an island which we passed, there was a large quantity of +white birch, whose bark might be employed in the construction of canoes. + + +_Thursday, 16._--The weather being clear, we re-embarked at four in +the morning, and proceeded West by North three miles. Here the land +again appeared as if it run across our course, and a considerable river +discharged itself by various streams. According to the Rocky Mountain +Indian, it is called the Sinew River. This spot would be an excellent +situation for a fort or factory, as there is plenty of wood, and every +reason to believe that the country abounds in beaver. As for the other +animals, they are in evident abundance, as in every direction the elk +and the buffalo are seen in possession of the hills and the plains. Our +course continued West-North-West three miles and a half, North-West one +mile and a half, South-West by West two miles; (the latitude was by +observation 56. 16. 54.) North, West by North half a mile, +West-North-West three quarters of a mile; a small river appearing on the +right, North-West one mile and a half, West by North half a mile, West +by South one mile and a half, West one mile; and at seven we formed our +encampment. + +Mr. Mackay, and one of the young men, killed two elks, and mortally +wounded a buffalo, but we only took a part of the flesh of the former. +The land above the spot where we encamped, spreads into an extensive +plain, and stretches on to a very high ridge, which, in some parts, +presents a face of rock, but is principally covered with verdure, and +varied with the poplar and white birch tree. The country is so crowded +with animals as to have the appearance, in some places, of a stall-yard, +from the state of the ground, and the quantity of dung which is +scattered over it. The soil is black and light. We this day saw two +grisly and hideous bears. + + +_Friday, 17._--It froze during the night, and the air was sharp in the +morning, when we continued our course West-North-West three miles and a +half, South-West by South two miles and a half, South-West by West one +mile and a half, West three quarters of a mile, West-South-West one mile +and a quarter, and South-West by South one mile and a half. At two in +the afternoon the rocky mountains appeared in sight, with their summits +covered with snow, bearing South-West by South: they formed a very +agreeable object to every person in the canoe, as we attained the view +of them much sooner than we expected. A small river was seen on our +right, and we continued our progress South-West by South six miles, when +we landed at seven, which was our usual hour of encampment. + +Mr. Mackay, who was walking along the side of the river, discharged his +piece at a buffalo, when it burst near the muzzle, but without any +mischievous consequences. On the high grounds, which were on the +opposite side of the river, we saw a buffalo tearing up and down with +great fury, but could not discern the cause of his impetuous motions; my +hunters conjectured that he had been wounded with on arrow by some of +the natives. We ascended several rapids in the course of the day, and +saw one bear. + + + +_Saturday, 18._--It again froze very hard during the night, and at +four in the morning we continued our voyage, but we had not proceeded +two hundred yards, before an accident happened to the canoe, which did +not, however, employ more than three quarters of an hour to complete the +repair. We then steered South by West one mile and three quarters, +South-West by South three miles, South-West by West one mile and a +quarter, West by South three quarters of a mile, South-West half a mile, +West by South one mile, South by West one mile and a half, +South-South-West, where there is a small run of water from the right, +three miles and a half, when the canoe struck on the stump of a tree, +and unfortunately where the banks were so steep that there was no place +to unload, except a small spot, on which we contrived to dispose the +lading in the bow, which lightened the canoe so as to raise the broken +part of it above the surface of the water; by which contrivance we +reached a convenient situation. It required, however, two hours to +complete the repair, when the weather became dark and cloudy, with +thunder, lightning, and rain; we, however, continued the last course +half a mile, and at six in the evening we were compelled by the rain to +land for the night. + +About noon we had landed on an island where there were eight lodges of +last year. The natives had prepared bark here for five canoes, and there +is a road along the hills where they had passed. Branches were out and +broken along it; and they had also stripped off the bark of the trees, to +get the interior rind, which forms part of their food. + +The current was very strong through the whole of the day, and the coming +up along some of the banks was rendered very dangerous, from the +continual falling of large stones, from the upper parts of them. This +place appears to be a particular pass for animals across the river, as +there are paths leading to it on both sides, every ten yards. + +In the course of the day we saw a ground hog, and two cormorants. The +earth also appeared in several places to have been turned up by the +bears, in search of roots. + + +_Sunday, 19._--It rained very hard in the early part of the night, but +the weather became clear towards the morning, when we embarked at our +usual hour. As the current threatened to be very strong, Mr. Mackay, +the two hunters, and myself, went on shore, in order to lighten the +canoe, and ascended the hills, which are covered with cypress, and but +little encumbered with underwood. We found a beaten path, and before we +had walked a mile, fell in with a herd of buffaloes, with their young +ones: but I would not suffer the Indians to fire on them, from an +apprehension that the report of their fowling pieces would alarm the +natives that might be in the neighbourhood; for we were at this time so +near the mountains, as to justify our expectation of seeing some of +them. We, however, sent our dog after the herd, and a calf was soon +secured by him. While the young men were skinning the animal, we heard +two reports of fire arms from the canoe, which we answered, as it was a +signal for my return; we then heard another, and immediately hastened +down the hill, with our veal, through a very close wood. There we met +one of the men, who informed us that the canoe was at a small distance +below, at the foot of a very strong rapid, and that as several +waterfalls appeared up the river, we should be obliged to unload and +carry. I accordingly hastened to the canoe, and was greatly displeased +that so much time had been lost, as I had given previous directions that +the river should be followed as long as it was practicable. The last +Indians whom we saw had informed us that at the first mountain there was +a considerable succession of rapids, cascades, and falls, which they +never attempted to ascend; and where they always passed over land the +length of a day's march. My men imagined that the carrying place was at +a small distance below us, as a path appeared to ascend a hill, where +there were several lodges, of the last year's construction. The account +which had been given me of the rapids, was perfectly correct: though by +crossing to the other side, I must acknowledge with some risk, in such a +heavy laden canoe, the river appeared to me to be practicable, as far as +we could see: the traverse, therefore, was attempted, and proved +successful. We now towed the canoe along an island, and proceeded +without any considerable difficulty, till we reached the extremity of +it, when the line could be no longer employed; and in endeavouring to +clear the point of the island, the canoe was driven with such violence +on a stony shore, as to receive considerable injury. We now employed +every exertion in our power to repair the breach that had been made, as +well as to dry such articles of our loading as more immediately required +it: we then transported the whole across the point, when we reloaded, +and continued our course about three quarters of a mile. We could now +proceed no further on this side of the water, and the traverse was +rendered extremely dangerous, not only from the strength of the current, +but by the cascades just below us, which, if we had got among them, +would have involved us and the canoe in one common destruction. We had +no other alternative than to return by the same course we came, or to +hazard the traverse, the river on this side being bounded by a range of +steep, over-hanging rocks, beneath which the current was driven on with +resistless impetuosity from the cascades. Here are several islands of +solid rock, covered with a small portion of verdure, which have been +worn away by the constant force of the current, and occasionally, as I +presume, of ice, at the water's edge, so as to be reduced in that part +to one fourth the extent of the upper surface; presenting, as it were, +so many large tables, each of which was supported by a pedestal of a +more circumscribed projection. They are very elevated for such a +situation, and afford an asylum for geese, which were at this time +breeding on them. By crossing from one to the other of these islands, +we came at length to the main traverse, on which we ventured, and were +successful in our passage. Mr. Mackay, and the Indians, who observed +our manoeuvres from the top of a rock, were in continual alarm for our +safety, with which their own, indeed, may be said to have been nearly +connected: however, the dangers that we encountered were very much +augmented by the heavy loading of the canoe. + +When we had effected our passage, the current on the West side was +almost equally violent with that from whence we had just escaped, but +the craggy bank being somewhat lower, we were enabled, with a line of +sixty fathoms, to tow the canoe, till we came to the foot of the most +rapid cascade we had hitherto seen. Here we unloaded, and carried every +thing over a rocky point of an hundred and twenty paces. When the canoe +was reloaded, I, with those of my people who were not immediately +employed, ascended the bank, which was there, and indeed, as far as we +could see, composed of clay, stone, and a yellow gravel. My present +situation was so elevated, that the men, who were coming up a strong +point, could not hear me, though I called to them with the utmost +strength of my voice, to lighten the canoe of part of its lading. And +here I could not but reflect, with infinite anxiety, on the hazard of my +enterprize; one false step of those who were attached to the line, or +the breaking of the line itself, would have at once consigned the canoe, +and every thing it contained, to instant destruction: it, however, +ascended the rapid in perfect security, but new dangers immediately +presented themselves, for stones, both small and great, were continually +rolling from the bank, so as to render the situation of those who were +dragging the canoe beneath it extremely perilous; besides, they were at +every step in danger, from the steepness of the ground, of falling into +the water: nor was my solicitude diminished by my being necessarily +removed at times from the sight of them. + +In our passage through the woods, we came to an inclosure, which had +been formed by the natives for the purpose of setting snares for the +elk, and of which we could not discover the extent. After we had +travelled for some hours through the forest, which consisted of the +spruce, birch, and the largest poplars I had ever seen, we sunk down +upon the river where the bank is low, and near the foot of a mountain; +between which, and a high ridge, the river flows in a channel of about +one hundred yards broad; though, at a small distance below, it rushes on +between perpendicular rocks, where it is not much more than half that +breadth. Here I remained, in great anxiety, expecting the arrival of +the canoe, and after some time I sent Mr. Mackay with one of the Indians +down the river in search of it, and with the other I went up to it to +examine what we might expect in that quarter. In about a mile and a +half I came to a part where the river washes the feet of lofty +precipices, and presented, in the form of rapids and cascades, a +succession of difficulties to our navigation. As the canoe did not come +in sight, we returned, and from the place where I had separated with +Mr. Mackay, we saw the men carrying it over a small rocky point. We met +them at the entrance of the narrow channel already mentioned; their +difficulties had been great indeed, and the canoe had been broken, but +they had persevered with success, and having passed the carrying-place, +we proceeded with the line as far as I had already been, when we crossed +over and encamped on the opposite beach; but there was no wood on this +side of the water, as the adjacent country had been entirely over-run by +fire. We saw several elks feeding on the edge of the opposite +precipice, which was upwards of three hundred feet high. + +Our course to-day was about South-South-West two miles and a half, +South-West half a mile, South-West by South one mile and a half, South +by West half a mile, South-West half a mile, and West one mile and a +half. There was a shower of hail, and some rain from flying clouds. I +now dispatched a man with an Indian to visit the rapids above, when the +latter soon left him to pursue a beaver, which was seen in the shallow +water on the inside of a stony island; and though Mr. Mackay, and the +other Indian joined him, the animal at length escaped from their +pursuit. Several others were seen in the course of the day, which I by +no means expected, as the banks are almost every where so much elevated +above the channel of the river. Just as the obscurity of the night drew +on, the man returned with an account that it would be impracticable to +pass several points, as well as the super-impending promontories. + + +_Monday, 20._--The weather was clear with a sharp air, and we renewed +our voyage at quarter past four, on a course South-West by West three +quarters of a mile. We now, with infinite difficulty passed along the +foot of a rock, which, fortunately, was not an hard stone, so that we +were enabled to cut steps in it for the distance of twenty feet; from +which, at the hazard of my life, I leaped on a small rock below, where I +received those who followed me on my shoulders. In this manner four of +us passed and dragged up the canoe, in which attempt we broke her. Very +luckily, a dry tree had fallen from the rock above us, without which we +could not have made a fire, as no wood was to be procured within a mile +of the place. When the canoe was repaired, we continued towing it along +the rocks to the next point, when we embarked, as we could not at +present make any further use of the line, but got along the rocks of a +round high island of stone, till we came to a small sandy bay. As we +had already damaged the canoe, and had every reason to think that she +soon would risk much greater injury, it became necessary for us to +supply ourselves with bark, as our provision of that material article +was almost exhausted two men were accordingly sent to procure it, who +soon returned with the necessary store. + +Mr. Mackay, and the Indians who had been on shore, since we broke the +canoe, were prevented from coming to us by the rugged and impassable +state of the ground. We, therefore, again resumed our course with the +assistance of poles, with which we pushed onwards till we came beneath a +precipice, where we could not find any bottom; so that we were again +obliged to have recourse to the line, the management of which was +rendered not only difficult but dangerous, as the men employed in towing +were under the necessity of passing on the outside of trees that grew on +the edge of the precipice. We, however, surmounted this difficulty, as +we had done many others, and the people who had been walking over land +now joined us. They also had met with their obstacles in passing the +mountain. + +It now became necessary for us to make a traverse, where the water was +so rapid, that some of the people stripped themselves to their shirts +that they might be the better prepared for swimming, in case any +accident happened to the canoe, which they seriously apprehended; but we +succeeded in our attempt without any other inconvenience, except that of +taking in water. We now came to a cascade, when it was thought +necessary to take out part of the lading. At noon we stopped to take an +altitude, opposite to a small river that flowed in from the left: while +I was thus engaged, the men went on shore to fasten the canoe, but as +the current was not very strong, they had been negligent in performing +this office; it proved, however, sufficiently powerful to sheer her off, +and if it had not happened that one of the men, from absolute fatigue +had remained and held the end of the line, we should have been deprived +of every means of prosecuting our voyage, as well as of present +subsistence. But notwithstanding the state of my mind on such an +alarming circumstance, and an intervening cloud that interrupted me, the +altitude which I took has been since proved to be tolerably correct, and +gave 56. North latitude. Our last course was South-South-West two miles +and a quarter. + +We now continued our toilsome and perilous progress with the line West +by North, and as we proceeded the rapidity of the current increased, so +that in the distance of two miles we were obliged to unload four times, +and carry every thing but the canoe: indeed, in many places, it was with +the utmost difficulty that we could prevent her from being dashed to +pieces against the rocks by the violence of the eddies. At five we had +proceeded to where the river was one continued rapid. + +Here we again took every thing out of the canoe, in order to tow her up +with the line, though the rocks were so shelving as greatly to increase +the toil and hazard of that operation. At length, however, the +agitation of the water was so great, that a wave striking on the bow of +the canoe broke the line, and filled us with inexpressible dismay, as it +appeared impossible that the vessel could escape from being dashed to +pieces, and those who were in her from perishing. Another wave, +however, more propitious than the former, drove her out of the tumbling +water, so that the men were enabled to bring her ashore, and though she +had been carried over rocks by these swells which left them naked a +moment after, the canoe had received no material injury. The men were, +however, in such a state from their late alarm, that it would not only +have been unavailing but imprudent to have proposed any further progress +at present, particularly as the river above us, as far as we could see, +was one white sheet of foaming water. + +[1] These people, as well as all the natives on this side of Lake +Winipic, give the mercantile agent that distinguished appellation. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +MAY, 1793. + +That the discouragements, difficulties, and dangers, which had hitherto +attended the progress of our enterprise, should have excited a wish in +several of those who were engaged in it to discontinue the pursuit, +might be naturally expected; and indeed it began to be muttered on all +sides that there was no alternative but to return. + +Instead of paying any attention to these murmurs, I desired those who +had uttered them to exert themselves in gaining an ascent of the hill, +and encamp there for the night. In the mean time I set off with one of +the Indians, and though I continued my examination of the river almost +as long as there was any light to assist me, I could see no end of the +rapids and cascades: I was, therefore, perfectly satisfied, that it +would be impracticable to proceed any further by water. We returned +from this reconnoitring excursion very much fatigued, with our shoes +worn out and wounded feet; when I found that, by felling trees on the +declivity of the first hill, my people had contrived to ascend it. + +From the place where I had taken the altitude at noon, to the place +where we made our landing, the river is not more than fifty yards wide, +and flows between stupendous rocks, from whence huge fragments sometimes +tumble down, and falling from such an height, dash into small stones, +with sharp points, and form the beach between the rocky projections. +Along the face of some of these precipices, there appears a stratum of a +bitumenous substance which resembles coal; though while some of the +pieces of it appeared to be excellent fuel, others resisted, for a +considerable time, the action of fire, and did not emit the least flame. +The whole of this day's course would have been altogether impracticable, +if the water had been higher, which must be the case at certain seasons. +We saw also several encampments of the Knisteneaux along the river, +which must have been formed by them on their war excursions: a decided +proof of the savage, blood-thirsty disposition of that people; as +nothing less than such a spirit could impel them to encounter the +difficulties of this almost inaccessible country, whose natives are +equally unoffending and defenceless. + +Mr. Mackay informed me, that in passing over the mountains, he observed +several chasms in the earth that emitted heat and smoke, which diffused +a strong sulphureous stench. I should certainly have visited this +phenomenon, if I had been sufficiently qualified as a naturalist, to +have offered scientific conjectures or observations thereon. + + +_Tuesday, 21._--It rained in the morning, and did not cease till about +eight, and as the men had been very fatigued and disheartened, I +suffered them to continue their rest till that hour. Such was the state +of the river, as I have already observed, that no alternative was left +us; nor did any means of proceeding present themselves to us, but the +passage of the mountain over which we were to carry the canoe as well as +the baggage. As this was a very alarming enterprize, I dispatched +Mr. Mackay with three men and the two Indians to proceed in a strait +course from the top of the mountain, and to keep the line of the river +till they should find it navigable. If it should be their opinion, that +there was no practicable passage in that direction, two of them were +instructed to return in order to make their report; while the others +were to go in search of the Indian carrying-place. While they were +engaged in this excursion, the people who remained with me were employed +in gumming the canoe, and making handles for the axes. At noon I got an +altitude, which made our latitude 56. 0. 8. At three o'clock had time, +when my watch was slow 1. 31. 32. apparent time. + +At sun-set, Mr. Mackay returned with one of the men, and in about two +hours was followed by the others. They had penetrated thick woods, +ascended hills and sunk into vallies, till they got beyond the rapid, +which, according to their calculation, was a distance of three leagues. +The two parties returned by different routes, but they both agreed, that +with all its difficulties, and they were of a very alarming nature, the +outward course was that which must be preferred. Unpromising, however, +as the account of their expedition appeared, it did not sink them into a +state of discouragement; and a kettle of wild rice, sweetened with +sugar, which had been prepared for their return, with their usual regale +of rum, soon renewed that courage which disdained all obstacles that +threatened our progress: and they went to rest, with a full +determination to surmount them on the morrow. I sat up, in the hope of +getting an observation of Jupiter and his first satellite, but the +cloudy weather prevented my obtaining it. + + +_Wednesday, 22._--At break of day we entered on the extraordinary +journey which was to occupy the remaining part of it. The men began, +without delay, to cut a road up the mountain, and as the trees were but +of small growth, I ordered them to fell those which they found +convenient, in such a manner, that they might fall parallel with the +road, but, at the same time not separate them entirely from the stumps, +so that they might form a kind of railing on either side. The baggage +was now brought from the water side to our encampment. This was, +likewise, from the steep shelving of the rocks, a very perilous +undertaking, as one false step of any of the people employed in it, +would have been instantly followed by falling headlong into the water. +When this important object was attained, the whole of the party +proceeded with no small degree of apprehension, to fetch the canoe, +which, in a short time, was also brought to the encampment; and, as soon +as we had recovered from our fatigue, we advanced with it up the +mountain, having the line doubled and fastened successively as we went +on to the stumps; while a man at the end of it, hauled it around a tree, +holding it on and shifting it as we proceeded; so that we may be said, +with strict truth, to have warped the canoe up the mountain; indeed by a +general and most laborious exertion, we got every thing to the summit by +two in the afternoon. At noon, the latitude was 56. 0. 47. North. At +five, I sent the men to cut the road onwards, which they effected for +about a mile, when they returned: + +The weather was cloudy at intervals, with showers and thunder. At about +ten, I observed an emersion of Jupiter's second satellite; time by the +achrometer 8. 32. 20. by which I found the longitude to be 120. 29. 80 +West from Greenwich. + + +_Thursday 23._--The weather was clear at four this morning, when the +men began to carry. I joined Mr. Mackay and the two Indians in the +labour of cutting a road. The ground continued rising gently till noon, +when it began to decline; but though on such an elevated situation, we +could see but little, as mountains of a still higher elevation, and +covered with snow, were seen far above us in every direction. In the +afternoon the ground became very uneven; hills and deep defiles +alternately presented themselves to us. Our progress, however, exceeded +my expectation, and it was not till four in the afternoon that the +carriers overtook us. At five, in a state of fatigue that may be more +readily conceived than expressed, we encamped near a rivulet or spring +that issued from beneath a large mass of ice and snow. + +Our toilsome journey of this day I compute at about three miles; along +the first of which the land is covered with plenty of wood, consisting +of large trees, encumbered with little underwood, through which it was +by no means difficult to open a road, by following a well-beaten elk +path: for the two succeeding miles we found the country overspread with +the trunks of trees, laid low by fire some years ago; among which large +copses had sprung up of a close growth, and intermixed with briars, so +as to render the passage through them painful and tedious. The soil in +the woods is light and of a dusky colour; that in the burned country is +a mixture of sand and clay with small stones. The trees are spruce, +red-pine, cypress, poplar, white birch, willow, alder, arrow-wood, +red-wood, liard, service-tree, bois-picant, &c. I never saw any of the +last kind before. It rises to about nine feet in height, grows in +joints without branches, and is tufted at the extremity. The stem is of +an equal size from the bottom to the top, and does not exceed an inch in +diameter; it is covered with small prickles, which caught our trowsers, +and working through them, sometimes found their way to the flesh. The +shrubs are, the gooseberry, the currant, and several kinds of briars. + + +_Friday, 24._--We continued our very laborious journey, which led us +down some steep hills, and through a wood of tall pines. After much +toil and trouble in bearing the canoe through the difficult passages +which we encountered, at four in the afternoon we arrived at the river, +some hundred yards above the rapids or falls, with all our baggage. I +compute the distance of this day's progress to be about four miles; +indeed I should have measured the whole of the way, if I had not been +obliged to engage personally in the labour of making the road. But +after all, the Indian carrying-way, whatever may be its length, and I +think it cannot exceed ten miles, will always be found more safe and +expeditious than the passage which our toil and perseverance formed and +surmounted. + +Those of my people who visited this place on the 21st, were of opinion +that the water had risen very much since that time. About two hundred +yards below us, the stream rushed with an astonishing but silent +velocity, between perpendicular rocks, which are not more than +thirty-five yards asunder: when the water is high, it runs over those +rocks, in a channel three times that breadth, where it is bounded by far +more elevated precipices. In the former are deep round holes, some of +which are full of water, while others are empty, in whose bottom are +small round stones, as smooth as marble. Some of these natural +cylinders would contain two hundred gallons. At a small distance below +the first of these rocks, the channel widens in a kind of zig-zag +progression; and it was really awful to behold with what infinite force +the water drives against the rocks on one side, and with what impetuous +strength it is repelled to the other: it then falls back, as it were, +into a more strait but rugged passage, over which it is tossed in high, +foaming, half-formed billows, as far as the eye could follow it. + +The young men informed me that this was the place where their relations +had told me that I should meet with a fall equal to that of Niagara: to +exculpate them, however, from their apparent misinformation, they +declared that their friends were not accustomed to utter falsehoods, and +that the fall had probably been destroyed by the force of the water. It +is, however, very evident that those people had not been here, or did +not adhere to the truth. By the number of trees which appeared to have +been felled with axes, we discovered that the Knisteneaux, or some +tribes who are known to employ that instrument, had passed this way. We +passed through a snare enclosure, but saw no animals, though the country +was very much intersected by their tracks. + + +_Saturday, 25._---It rained throughout the night, and till twelve this +day; while the business of preparing great and small poles, and putting +the canoe in order, &c. caused us to remain here till five in the +afternoon. I now attached a knife, with a steel, flint, beads, and +other trifling articles to a pole, which I erected, and left as a token +of amity to the natives. When I was making this arrangement, one of my +attendants, whom I have already described under the title of the Cancre, +added to my assortment, a small round piece of green wood, chewed at one +end in the form of a brush, which the Indians used to pick the marrow +out of bones. This he informed me was an emblem of a country abounding +in animals. The water had risen during our stay here one foot and a +half perpendicular height. + +We now embarked, and our course was North-West one mile and three +quarters. There were mountains on all sides of us, which were covered +with snow; one in particular, on the South side of the river, rose to a +great height. We continued to proceed West three quarters of a mile, +North-West one mile, and West-South-West a quarter of a mile, when we +encamped for the night. The Cancre killed a small elk. + + +_Sunday, 26._--The weather was clear and sharp, and between three and +four in the morning we renewed our voyage, our first course being West +by South three miles and a half, when the men complained of the cold in +their fingers, as they were obliged to push on the canoe with the poles. +Here a small river flowed in from the North. We now continued to steer +West-South-West a quarter of a mile; West-North-West a mile and a half, +and West two miles, when we found ourselves on a parallel with a chain +of mountains on both sides of the river, running South and North. The +river, both yesterday and the early part of to-day, was from four to +eight hundred yards wide, and full of islands, but was at this time +diminished to about two hundred yards broad, and free from islands, with +a smooth but strong current. Our next course was South-West two miles, +when we encountered a rapid, and saw an encampment of the Knisteneaux. +We now proceeded North-West by West one mile, among islands, South-West +by West three quarters of a mile, South-South-East one mile, veered to +South-West through islands three miles and a half, and South by East +half a mile. Here a river poured in on the left, which was the most +considerable that we had seen since we had passed the mountain. At +seven in the evening we landed and encamped. + +Though the sun had shone upon us throughout the day, the air was so cold +that the men, though actively employed, could not resist it without the +aid of their blanket coats. This circumstance might, in some degree, be +expected from the surrounding mountains, which were covered with ice and +snow; but as they are not so high as to produce the extreme cold which +we suffered, it must be more particularly attributed to the high +situation of the country itself, rather than to the local elevation of +the mountains, the greatest height of which does not exceed fifteen +hundred feet; though in general they do not rise to half that altitude. + +But as I had not been able to take an exact measurement, I do not +presume upon the accuracy of my conjecture. Towards the bottom of these +heights, which were clear of snow, the trees were putting forth their +leaves, while those in their middle region still retained all the +characteristics of winter, and on the upper parts there was little or no +wood. + + +_Monday, 27._[1]--The weather was clear, and we continued our voyage +at the usual hour, when we successively found several rapids and points +to impede our progress. At noon our latitude was 56. 5. 54. North. The +Indians killed a stag; and one of the men who went to fetch it was very +much endangered by the rolling down of a large stone from the heights +above him. + + +_Tuesday, 28._--The day was very cloudy. The mountains on both sides +of the river seemed to have sunk, in their elevation, during the voyage +of yesterday. To-day they resumed their former altitude, and run so +close on either side of the channel, that all view was excluded of every +thing but themselves. This part of the current was not broken by +islands; but in the afternoon we approached some cascades, which obliged +us to carry our canoe and its lading for several hundred yards. Here we +observed an encampment of the natives, though some time had elapsed +since it had been inhabited. The greater part of the day was divided +between heavy showers and small rain; and we took our station on the +shore about six in the evening, about three miles above the last rapid. + + +_Wednesday, 29._--The rain was so violent throughout the whole of this +day, that we did not venture to proceed. As we had almost expended the +contents of a rum-keg, and this being a day which allowed of no active +employment, I amused myself with the experiment of enclosing a letter in +it, and dispatching it down the stream to take its fate. I accordingly +introduced a written account of all our hardships, &c. carefully +enclosed in bark, into the small barrel by the bung-hole, which being +carefully secured, I consigned this epistolatory cargo to the mercy of +the current. + + +_Thursday, 30._--We were alarmed this morning at break of day, by the +continual barking of our dog, who never ceased from running backwards +and forwards in the rear of our situation: when, however, the day +advanced, we discovered the cause of our alarm to proceed from a wolf, +who was parading a ridge a few yards behind us, and had been most +probably allured by the scent of our small portion of fresh meat. The +weather was cloudy, but it did not prevent us from renewing our progress +at a very early hour. A considerable river appeared from the left, and +we continued our course till seven in the evening, when we landed at +night where there was an Indian encampment. + + +_Friday, 31._--The morning was clear and cold, and the current very +powerful. On crossing the mouth of a river that flowed in from the +right of us, we were very much endangered; indeed all the rivers which I +have lately seen, appear to overflow their natural limits, as it may be +supposed, from the melting of the mountain snow. The water is almost +white, the bed of the river being of limestone. The mountains are one +solid mass of the same material, but without the least shade of trees, +or decoration of foliage. At nine the men were so cold that we landed, +in order to kindle a fire, which was considered as a very uncommon +circumstance at this season; a small quantity of rum, however, served as +an adequate substitute; and the current being so smooth as to admit of +the use of paddles, I encouraged them to proceed without any further +delay. In a short time an extensive view opened upon us, displaying a +beautiful sheet of water, that was heightened by the calmness of the +weather, and a splendid sun. Here the mountains which were covered with +wood, opened on either side, so that we entertained the hope of soon +leaving them behind us. When we had got to the termination of this +prospect, the river was barred with rocks, forming cascades and small +islands. To proceed onwards, we were under the necessity of clearing a +narrow passage of the drift wood, on the left shore. Here the view +convinced us that our late hopes were without foundation, as there +appeared a ridge or chain of mountains, running South and North as far +as the eye could reach. + +On advancing two or three miles, we arrived at the fork, one branch +running about West-North-West, and the other South-South-East. If I had +been governed by my own judgment, I should have taken the former, as it +appeared to me to be the most likely to bring us nearest to the part +where I wished to fall on the Pacific Ocean, but the old man, whom I +have already mentioned as having been frequently on war expeditions in +this country, had warned me not, on any account, to follow it, as it was +soon lost in various branches among the mountains, and that there was no +great river that ran in any direction near it; but by following the +latter, he said, we should arrive at a carrying-place to another large +river, that did not exceed a day's march, where the inhabitants build +houses, and live upon islands. There was so much apparent truth in the +old man's narrative, that I determined to be governed by it; for I did +not entertain the least doubt, if I could get into the other river, that +I should reach the ocean. + +I accordingly ordered my steersman to proceed at once to the East +branch, which appeared to be more rapid than the other, though it did +not possess an equal breadth. These circumstances disposed my men and +Indians, the latter in particular being very tired of the voyage, to +express their wishes that I should take the Western branch, especially +when they perceived the difficulty of stemming the current, in the +direction on which I had determined. Indeed the rush of water was so +powerful, that we were the greatest part of the afternoon in getting two +or three miles--a very tardy and mortifying progress, and which, with +the voyage, was openly execrated by many of those who were engaged in +it: and the inexpressible toil these people had endured, as well as the +dangers they had encountered, required some degree of consideration; I +therefore employed those arguments which were the best calculated to +calm their immediate discontents, as well as to encourage their future +hopes, though, at the same time, I delivered my sentiments in such a +manner as to convince them that I was determined to proceed. + +On the 1st of June we embarked at sun-rise, and towards noon the current +began to slacken; we then put to shore, in order to gum the canoe, when +a meridian altitude gave me 55. 42. 16. North latitude. We then +continued our course, and towards the evening the current began to +recover its former strength. Mr. Mackay and the Indians had already +disembarked, to walk and lighten the boat. At sun-set we encamped on a +point, being the first dry land which had been found on this side the +river, that was fit for our purpose, since our people went on shore. In +the morning we passed a large rapid river, that flowed in from the +right. + +In no part of the North-West did I see so much beaver-work, within an +equal distance, as in the course of this day. In some places they had +cut down several acres of large poplars; and we saw also a great number +of these active and sagacious animals. The time which these wonderful +creatures allot for their labours, whether in erecting their curious +habitations or providing food, is the whole of the interval between the +setting and the rising sun. + +Towards the dusky part of the evening we heard several discharges from +the fowling pieces of our people, which we answered, to inform them of +our situation; and some time after it was dark, they arrived in an equal +state of fatigue and alarm; they were also obliged to swim across a +channel in order to get to us, as we were situated on an island, though +we were ignorant of the circumstance, till they came to inform us. One +of the Indians was positive that he heard the discharge of fire-arms +above our encampment; and on comparing the number of our discharges with +theirs, there appeared to be some foundation for his alarm, as we +imagined that we had heard two reports more than they acknowledged; and +in their turn, they declared that they had heard twice the number of +those which we knew had proceeded from us. The Indians were therefore +certain, that the Knisteneaux must be in our vicinity, on a war +expedition, and consequently, if they were numerous, we should have had +no reason to expect the least mercy from them in this distant country. +Though I did not believe that circumstance, or that any of the natives +could be in possession of fire-arms, I thought it right, at all events, +we should be prepared. Our fusees were, therefore, primed and loaded, +and having extinguished our fire, each of us took his station at the +foot of a tree, where we passed an uneasy and restless night. + +The succeeding morning being clear and pleasant, we proceeded at an +early hour against a rapid current, intersected by islands. About eight +we passed two large trees, whose roots having been undermined by the +current, had recently fallen into the river; and, in my opinion, the +crash of their fall had occasioned the noise which caused our late +alarm. In this manner the water ravages the islands in these rivers, +and by driving down great quantities of wood, forms the foundations of +others. The men were so oppressed with fatigue, that it was necessary +they should encamp at six in the afternoon. We, therefore, landed on a +sandy island, which is a very uncommon object, as the greater part of +the islands consist of a bottom of round stones and gravel, covered from +three to ten feet with mud and old drift-wood. Beaver-work was as +frequently seen as on the preceding day. + +On the 3d of June we renewed our voyage with the rising sun. At noon I +obtained a meridian altitude, which gave 55. 22. 3. North latitude. I +also took time, and the watch was slow 1. 30. 14. apparent time. +According to my calculation, this place is about twenty-five miles +South-East of the fork.[2] + +[1] From this day to the 4th of June the courses of my voyage are +omitted, as I lost the book that contained them. I was in the habit of +sometimes indulging myself with a short doze in the canoe, and I imagine +that the branches of the trees brushed my book from me, when I was in +such a situation, which renders the account of these few days less +distinct than usual. + +[2] I shall now proceed with my usual regularity, which, as I have +already mentioned, has been, for some days, suspended, from the loss of +my book of observation. + + + + +CHAPTER. IV. + + +JUNE 4, 1793. + +We embarked this morning at four in a very heavy fog. +The water had been continually rising, and, in many places, overflowed +its banks. The current also was so strong that our progress was very +tedious, and required the most laborious exertions. Our course was this +day, South-South-East one mile, South-South-West half a mile, South-East +three quarters of a mile, North-East by East three quarters of a mile, +South-East half a mile, South-East by South one mile, South-South-East +one mile and three quarters, South-East by South half a mile, East by +South a quarter of a mile, South-East three quarters of a mile, +North-East by East half a mile, East by North a quarter of a mile, +South-East half a mile, South-East by South a quarter of a mile, +South-East by East half a mile, North-East by East half a mile, +North-North-East three quarters of a mile to South by East one mile and +a half. We could not find a place fit for an encampment, till nine at +night, when we landed on a bank of gravel, of which little more appeared +above water than the spot we occupied. + + +_Wednesday, 5._--This morning we found our canoe and baggage in the +water, which had continued rising during the night. We then gummed the +canoe, as we arrived at too late an hour to perform that operation on +the preceding evening. This necessary business being completed, we +traversed to the North shore, where I disembarked with Mr. Mackay, and +the hunters, in order to ascend an adjacent mountain, with the hope of +obtaining a view of the interior part of the country. I directed my +people to proceed with all possible diligence, and that, if they met +with any accident, or found my return necessary, they should fire two +guns. They also understood, that when they should hear the same signal +from me, they were to answer, and wait for me, if I were behind them. + +When we had ascended to the summit of the hill, we found that it +extended onwards in an even, level country; so that, encumbered as we +were, with the thick wood, no distant view could be obtained; I +therefore climbed a very lofty tree, from whose top I discerned on the +right a ridge of mountains covered with snow, bearing about North-West; +from thence another ridge of high land, whereon no snow was visible, +stretched towards the South: between which and the snowy hills on the +East side, there appeared to be an opening, which we determined to be +the course of the river. + +Having obtained all the satisfaction that the nature of the place would +admit, we proceeded forward to overtake the canoe, and after a warm walk +came down upon the river, when we discharged our pieces twice, but +received no answering signal. I was of opinion, that the canoe was +before us, while the Indians entertained an opposite notion. I, +however, crossed another point of land, and came again to the waterside +about ten. Here we had a long view of the river, which circumstance +excited in my mind, some doubts of my former sentiments. We repeated +our signals, but without any return; and as every moment now increased +my anxiety, I left Mr. Mackay and one of the Indians at this spot to +make a large fire, and sent branches adrift down the current as notices +of our situation, if the canoe was behind us; and proceeded with the +other Indian across a very long point, where the river makes a +considerable bend, in order that I might be satisfied if the canoe was +a-head. Having been accustomed, for the last fortnight, to very cold +weather, I found the heat of this day almost insupportable, as our way +lay over a dry sand, which was relieved by no shade, but such as a few +scattered cypresses could afford us. About twelve, we arrived once more +at the river, and the discharge of our pieces was as unsuccessful as it +had hitherto been. The water rushed before us with uncommon velocity; +and we also tried the experiment of sending fresh branches down it. To +add to the disagreeableness of our situation, the gnats and mosquitoes +appeared in swarms to torment us. When we returned to our companions, +we found that they had not been contented with remaining in the position +where I had left them, but had been three or four miles down the river, +but were come back to their station, without having made any discovery +of the people on the water. + +Various very unpleasing conjectures at once perplexed and distressed us: +the Indians, who are inclined to magnify evils of any and every kind, +had at once consigned the canoe and every one on board it to the bottom; +and were already settling a plan to return upon a raft, as well as +calculating the number of nights that would be required to reach their +home. As for myself, it will be easily believed, that my mind was in a +state of extreme agitation, and the imprudence of my conduct in leaving +the people, in such a situation of danger and toilsome exertion added a +very painful mortification to the severe apprehensions I already +suffered: it was an act of indiscretion which might have put an end to +the voyage that I had so much at heart, and compelled me at length to +submit to the scheme which my hunters had already formed for our return. + +At half past six in the evening, Mr. Mackay and the Cancre set off to +proceed down the river, as far as they could before the night came on, +and to continue their journey in the morning to the place where we had +encamped the preceding evening. I also proposed to make my excursion +upwards; and, if we both failed of success in meeting the canoe, it was +agreed that we should return to the place where we now separated. + +In this situation we had wherewithal to drink in plenty, but with solid +food we were totally unprovided. We had not seen even a partridge +throughout the day, and the tracks of rein-deer that we had discovered, +were of an old date. We were, however, preparing to make a bed of the +branches of trees, where we should have had no other canopy than that +afforded us by the heavens, when we heard a shot, and soon after +another, which was the notice agreed upon, if Mr. Mackay and the Indian +should see the canoe: that fortunate circumstance was also confirmed by +a return of the signal from the people. I was, however, so fatigued +from the heat and exercise of the day, as well as incommoded from +drinking so much cold water, that I did not wish to remove till the +following morning; but the Indian made such bitter complaints of the +cold and hunger he suffered, that I complied with his solicitations to +depart; and it was almost dark when we reached the canoe, barefooted, +and drenched with rain. But these inconveniences affected me very +little, when I saw myself once more surrounded with my people. They +informed me, that the canoe had been broken; and that they had this day +experienced much greater toil and hardships than on any former occasion. +I thought it prudent to affect a belief of every representation that +they made, and even to comfort each of them with a consolatory dram: +for, however difficult the passage might have been, it was too short to +have occupied the whole day, if they had not relaxed in their exertions. +The rain was accompanied with thunder and lightning. + +It appeared from the various encampments which we had seen, and from +several paddles we had found, that the natives frequent this part of the +country at the latter end of the summer and the fall. The course to-day +was nearly East-South-East two miles and a half, South by West one mile, +South-South-East one mile and a half, East two miles, and South-East by +South one mile. + + +_Thursday, 6._--At half past four this morning we continued our +voyage, our courses being South-East by South one mile, East by South +three quarters of a mile, South-East by East two miles. The whole of +this distance we proceeded by hauling the canoe from branch to branch. +The current was so strong, that it was impossible to stem it with the +paddles; the depth was too great to receive any assistance from the +poles, and the bank of the river was so closely lined with willows and +other trees, that it was impossible to employ the line. As it was past +twelve before we could find a place that would allow of our landing, I +could not get a meridian altitude. We occupied the rest of the day in +repairing the canoe, drying our cloaths, and making paddles and poles to +replace those which had been broken or lost. + + +_Friday, 7._--The morning was clear and calm; and since we had been at +this station the water had risen two inches; so that the current became +still stronger; and its velocity had already been so great as to justify +our despair in getting up it, if we had not been so long accustomed to +surmount. I last night observed an emersion of Jupiter's first +satellite, but inadvertently went to bed, without committing the exact +time to writing: if my memory is correct, it was 8. 18. 10. by the +timepiece. The canoe, which had been little better than a wreck, being +now repaired, we proceeded East two miles and a quarter, +South-South-East half a mile, South-East a quarter of a mile, when we +landed to take an altitude for time. We continued our route at +South-East by East three quarters of a mile, and landed again to +determine the latitude, which is 55. 2. 51. To this I add, 2. 45. +Southing, which will make the place of taking altitude for time +55. 5. 36. with which I find that my time-piece was slow 1. 32. 23. +apparent time; and made the longitude obtained 122. 35. 50. West of +Greenwich. + +From this place we proceeded East by South four miles and a half, +East-South-East one mile and a half, in which space there falls in a +small river from the East; East half a mile, South-East a mile and a +half, East a quarter of a mile, and encamped at seven o'clock. +Mr. Mackay and the hunters walked the greatest part of the day, and in +the course of their excursion killed a porcupine.[1] Here we found the +bed of a very large bear quite fresh. During the day several Indian +encampments were seen, which were of a late erection. The current had +also lost some of its impetuosity during the greater part of the day. + + +_Saturday, 8._--It rained and thundered through the night, and at four +in the morning we again encountered the current. Our course was East a +quarter of a mile, round to South by East along a very high white sandy +bank on the East shore, three quarters of a mile, South-South-East a +quarter of a mile, South-South-West a quarter of a mile, +South-South-East one mile and a quarter, South-East two miles, with a +slack current; South-East by East two miles and a quarter, East a +quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by +South four miles and a half, South-East one mile and a half, +South-South-West half a mile, East-North-East half a mile, +East-South-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by South one mile, +South-East by East half a mile, East by South three quarters of a mile, +when the mountains were in full view in this direction, and Eastward. +For the three last days we could only see them at short intervals and +long distances; but till then, they were continually in sight on either +side, from our entrance into the fork. Those to the left were at no +great distance from us. + +For the last two days we had been anxiously looking out for the +carrying-place, but could not discover it, and our only hope was in such +information as we should be able to procure from the natives. All that +remained for us to do, was to push forwards till the river should be no +longer navigable: it had now, indeed, overflowed its banks, so that it +was eight at night before we could discover a place to encamp. Having +found plenty of wild parsnips, we gathered the tops, and boiled them +with pemmican for our supper. + + +_Sunday, 9._--The rain of this morning terminated in a heavy mist at +half past five, when we embarked and steered South-East one mile and a +half, when it veered North-North-East half a mile, South-East three +quarters of a mile, East by South three quarters of a mile, +East-South-East a quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a +mile, South-East by East one mile, North-East by East half a mile, +South-East by East half a mile, South-East by South three quarters of a +mile, South-East three quarters of a mile, East by South half a mile, +South-East by East half a mile, East-North-East three quarters of a +mile, when it veered to South-South-East half a mile, then back to East +(when a blue mountain, clear of snow, appeared a-head) one mile and a +half; North-East by East half a mile, East by North one mile, when it +veered to South-East half a mile, then on to North-West three quarters +of a mile, and back to North-East by East half a mile, South by West a +quarter of a mile, North-East by East to North-North-East half a mile, +South-South-East a quarter of a mile, and East by North half a mile; +here we perceived a smell of fire; and in a short time heard people in +the woods, as if in a state of great confusion, which was occasioned, as +we afterwards understood, by their discovery of us. At the same time +this unexpected circumstance produced some little discomposure among +ourselves, as our arms were not in a state of preparation, and we were +as yet unable to ascertain the number of the party. I considered, that +if there were but few, it would be needless to pursue them, as it would +not be probable that we should overtake them in these thick woods; and +if they were numerous, it would be an act of great imprudence to make +the attempt, at least during their present alarm. I therefore ordered +my people to strike off to the opposite side, that we might see if any +of them had sufficient courage to remain; but, before we were half over +the river, which in this part is not more than a hundred yards wide, two +men appeared on a rising ground over against us, brandishing their +spears, displaying their bows and arrows, and accompanying their hostile +gestures with loud vociferations. My interpreter did not hesitate to +assure them, that they might dispel their apprehensions, as we were +white people, who meditated no injury, but were, on the contrary, +desirous of demonstrating every mark of kindness and friendship. They +did not, however, seem disposed to confide in our declarations, and +actually threatened, if we came over before they were more fully +satisfied of our peaceable intentions, that they would discharge their +arrows at us. This was a decided kind of conduct which I did not +expect; at the same time I readily complied with their proposition, and +after some time had passed in hearing and answering their questions, +they consented to our landing, though not without betraying very evident +symptoms of fear and distrust. They, however, laid aside their weapons, +and when I stepped forward and took each of them by the hand, one of +them, but with a very tremulous action, drew his knife from his sleeve, +and presented it to me as a mark of his submission to my will and +pleasure. On our first hearing the noise of these people in the woods, +we displayed our flag, which was now shewn to them as a token of +friendship. They examined us, and every thing about us, with a minute +and suspicious attention. They had heard, indeed, of white men, but +this was the first time that they had ever seen a human being of a +complexion different from their own. The party had been here but a few +hours; nor had they yet erected their sheds; and, except the two men now +with us, they had all fled, leaving their little property behind them. +To those which had given us such a proof of their confidence, we paid +the most conciliating attentions in our power. One of them I sent to +recall his people, and the other, for very obvious reasons, we kept with +us. In the mean time the canoe was unloaded, the necessary baggage +carried up the hill, and the tents pitched. + +Here I determined to remain till the Indians became so familiarized to +us, as to give all the intelligence which we imagined might be obtained +from them. In fact, it had been my intention to land where I might most +probably discover the carrying-place, which was our more immediate +object, and undertake marches of two or three days, in different +directions, in search of another river. If unsuccessful in this +attempt, it was my purpose to continue my progress up the present river, +as far as it was navigable, and if we did not meet with natives to +instruct us in our further progress, I had determined to return to the +fork, and take the other branch, with the hope of better fortune. + +It was about three in the afternoon when we landed, and at five the +whole party of Indians were assembled. It consisted only of three men, +three women, and seven or eight boys and girls. With their scratched +legs, bleeding feet, and dishevelled hair, as in the hurry of their +flight they had left their shoes and leggins behind them, they displayed +a most wretched appearance: they were consoled, however, with beads, and +other trifles, which seemed to please them; they had pemmican also given +them to eat, which was not unwelcome, and in our opinion, at least, +superior to their own provision, which consisted entirely of dried fish. + +When I thought that they were sufficiently composed, I sent for the men +to my tent, to gain such information respecting the country as I +concluded it was in their power to afford me. But my expectations were +by no means satisfied: they said that they were not acquainted with any +river to the Westward, but that there was one from whence they were just +arrived, over a carrying-place of eleven days march, which they +represented as being a branch only of the river before us. Their +iron-work they obtained from the people who inhabit the bank of that +river, and an adjacent lake, in exchange for beaver skins, and dressed +moose skins. They represented the latter as travelling, during a moon, +to get to the country of other tribes, who live in houses, with whom +they traffic for the same commodities; and that these also extend their +journies in the same manner to the sea coast, or, to use their +expression, the Stinking Lake, where they trade with people like us, +that come there in vessels as big as islands. They added, that the +people to the Westward, as they have been told, are very numerous. +Those who inhabit the other branch they stated as consisting of about +forty families, while they themselves did not amount to more than a +fourth of that number; and were almost continually compelled to remain +in their strong holds, where they sometimes perished with cold and +hunger, to secure themselves from their enemies, who never failed to +attack them whenever an opportunity presented itself. + +This account of the country, from a people who I had every reason to +suppose were well acquainted with every part of it, threatened to +disconcert the project on which my heart was set, and in which my whole +mind was occupied. It occurred to me, however, that from fear, or other +motives, they might be tardy in their communication; I therefore assured +them that, if they would direct me to the river which I described to +them, I would come in large vessels, like those that their neighbours +had described, to the mouth of it, and bring them arms and ammunition in +exchange for the produce of their country; so that they might be able to +defend themselves against their enemies, and no longer remain in that +abject, distressed, and fugitive state in which they then lived. I +added also, that in the mean time, if they would, on my return accompany +me below the mountains, to a country which was very abundant in animals, +I would furnish them, and their companions, with every thing they might +want; and make peace between them and the Beaver Indians. But all these +promises did not appear to advance the object of my inquiries, and they +still persisted in their ignorance of any such river as I had mentioned, +that discharged itself into the sea. + +In this state of perplexity and disappointment, various projects +presented themselves to my mind, which were no sooner formed than they +were discovered to be impracticable, and were consequently abandoned. +At one time I thought of leaving the canoe, and every thing it +contained, to go over land, and pursue that chain of connexion by which +these people obtain their iron-work; but a very brief course of +reflection convinced me that it would be impossible for us to carry +provisions for our support through any considerable part of such a +journey, as well as presents, to secure us a kind reception among the +natives, and ammunition for the service of the hunters, and to defend +ourselves against any act of hostility. At another time my solicitude +for the success of the expedition incited a wish to remain with the +natives, and go to the sea by the way they had described; but the +accomplishment of such a journey, even if no accident should interpose, +would have required a portion of time which it was not in my power to +bestow. In my present state of information, to proceed further up the +river was considered as a fruitless waste of toilsome exertion; and to +return unsuccessful, after all our labour, sufferings, and dangers, was +an idea too painful to indulge. Besides, I could not yet abandon the +hope that the Indians might not yet be sufficiently composed and +confident, to disclose their real knowledge of the country freely and +fully to me. Nor was I altogether without my doubts respecting the +fidelity of my interpreter, who being very much tired of the voyage, +might be induced to withhold those communications which would induce me +to continue it. I therefore continued my attentions to the natives, +regaled them with such provisions as I had, indulged their children with +a taste of sugar, and determined to suspend my conversation with them +till the following morning. On my expressing a desire to partake of +their fish, they brought me a few dried trout, well cured, that had been +taken in the river which they lately left. One of the men also brought +me five beaver skins, as a present. + + +_Monday, 10._--The solicitude that possessed my mind interrupted my +repose; when the dawn appeared I had already quitted my bed, and was +waiting with impatience for another conference with the natives. The +sun, however, had risen before they left their leafy bowers, whither +they had retired with their children, having most hospitably resigned +their beds, and the partners of them, to the solicitations of my young +men. + +I now repeated my inquiries, but my perplexity was not removed by any +favourable variation in their answers. About nine, however, one of +them, still remaining at my fire, in conversation with the interpreters, +I understood enough of his language to know that he mentioned something +about a great river, at the same time pointing significantly up that +which was before us. On my inquiring of the interpreter respecting that +expression, I was informed that he knew of a large river, that runs +towards the mid-day sun, a branch of which flowed near the source of +that which we were now navigating; and that there were only three small +lakes, and as many carrying-places, leading to a small river, which +discharges itself into the great river, but that the latter did not +empty itself into the sea. The inhabitants, he said, built houses, +lived on islands, and were a numerous and warlike people. I desired him +to describe the road to the other river, by delineating it with a piece +of coal, on a strip of bark, which he accomplished to my satisfaction. +The opinion that the river did not discharge itself into the sea, I very +confidently imputed to his ignorance of the country. + +My hopes were now renewed, and an object presented itself which awakened +my utmost impatience. To facilitate its attainment, one of the Indians +was induced, by presents, to accompany me as a guide to the first +inhabitants, which we might expect to meet on the small lakes in our +way. I accordingly resolved to depart with all expedition, and while my +people were making every necessary preparation, I employed myself in +writing the following description of the natives around me: + +They are low in stature, not exceeding five feet six or seven inches; +and they are of that meagre appearance which might be expected in a +people whose life is one secession of difficulties, in procuring +subsistence. Their faces are round, with high cheek bones; and their +eyes, which are small, are of a dark brown colour; the cartilage of +their nose is perforated, but without any ornaments suspended from it; +their hair is of a dingy black, hanging loose and in disorder over their +shoulders, but irregularly cut in the front, so as not to obstruct the +sight; their beards are eradicated, with the exception of a few +straggling hairs, and their complexion is a swarthy yellow. + +Their dress consists of robes made of the skins of the heaver, the +ground-hog and the reindeer, dressed in the hair, and of the moose-skin +without it. All of them are ornamented with a fringe, while some of +them have tassels hanging down the seams; those of the ground-hog are +decorated on the fur side with the tails of the animal, which they do +not separate from them. Their garments they tie over the shoulders, and +fasten them round the middle with a belt of green skin, which is as +stiff as horn. Their leggins are long, and, if they were topped with a +waistband, might be called trowsers: they, as well as their shoes, are +made of dressed moose, elk, or rein-deer skin. The organs of generation +they leave uncovered. + +The women differ little in their dress, from the men, except in the +addition of an apron, which is fastened round the waist, and hangs down +to the knees. They are in general of a more lusty make than the other +sex, and taller in proportion, but infinitely their inferiors in +cleanliness. A black artificial stripe crosses the face beneath the +eye, from ear to ear, which I first took for scabs, from the +accumulation of dirt on it. Their hair, which is longer than that of +the men, is divided from the forehead to the crown, and drawn back in +long plaits behind the ears. They have also a few white beads, which +they get where they procure their iron: they are from a line to an inch +in length, and are worn in their ears, but are not of European +manufacture. These, with bracelets made of horn and bone, compose all +the ornaments which decorate their persons. Necklaces of the grisly or +white bear's claws, are worn exclusively by the men. + +Their arms consist of bows made of cedar, six feet in length, with a +short iron spike at one end, and serve occasionally as a spear. Their +arrows are well made, barbed, and pointed with iron, flint, stone, or +bone; they are feathered, and from two or two feet and a half in length. +They have two kinds of spears, but both are double edged, and of well +polished iron; one of them is about twelve inches long, and two wide; +the other about half the width, and two thirds of the length; the shafts +of the first are eight feet in length, and the latter six. They have +also spears made of bone. Their knives consist of pieces of iron, +shaped and handled by themselves. Their axes are something like our +adze, and they use them in the same manner as we employ that instrument. +They were, indeed, furnished with iron in a manner that I could not have +supposed, and plainly proved to me that their communication with those, +who communicate with the inhabitants of the sea coast, cannot be very +difficult, and from their ample provision of iron weapons, the means of +procuring it must be of a more distant origin than I had at first +conjectured. + +They have snares made of green skin, which they cut to the size of +sturgeon twine, and twist a certain number of them together; and though +when completed they do not exceed the thickness of a cod-line, their +strength is sufficient to hold a moose-deer; they are from one and a +half to two fathoms in length. Their nets and fishing-lines are made of +willow-bark and nettles; those made of the latter are finer and smoother +than if made with hempen thread. Their hooks are small bones, fixed in +pieces of wood split for that purpose, and tied round with fine watape, +which has been particularly described in the former voyage. Their +kettles are also made of watape, which is so closely woven that they +never leak, and they heat water in them, by putting red-hot stones into +it. There is one kind of them, made of spruce-bark, which they hang +over the fire, but at such a distance as to receive the heat without +being within reach of the blaze; a very tedious operation. They have +various dishes of wood and bark; spoons of horn and wood, and buckets; +bags of leather and net-work, and baskets of bark, some of which hold +their fishing-tackle, while others are contrived to be carried on the +back. They have a brown kind of earth in great abundance, with which +they rub their clothes, not only for ornament but utility, as it +prevents the leather from becoming hard after it has been wetted. They +have spruce bark in great plenty, with which they make their canoes, an +operation that does not require any great portion of skill or ingenuity, +and is managed in the following manner.--The bark is taken off the +tree the whole length of the intended canoe, which is commonly about +eighteen feet, and is sewed with watape at both ends; two laths are then +laid, and fixed along the edge of the bark which forms the gunwale; in +these are fixed the bars, and against them bear the ribs or timbers, +that are out to the length to which the bark can be stretched; and, to +give additional strength, strips of wood are laid between them: to make +the whole water-tight, gum is abundantly employed. These vessels carry +from two to five people. Canoes of a similar construction were used by +the Beaver Indians within these few years, but they now very generally +employ those made of the bark of the birch tree, which are by far more +durable. Their paddles are about six feet long, and about one foot is +occupied by the blade, which is in the shape of an heart. + +Previous to our departure, the natives had caught a couple of trout, of +about six pounds weight, which they brought me, and I paid them with +beads. They likewise gave me a net, made of nettles, the skin of a +moose-deer, dressed, and a white horn in the shape of a spoon which +resembles the horn of the buffalo of the Copper-Mine-River; but their +description of the animal to which it belongs does not answer to that. +My young men also got two quivers of excellent arrows, a collar of white +bear's claws, of a great length, horn bracelets, and other articles, for +which they received an ample remuneration. + +[1] We had been obliged to indulge our hunters with sitting idle in the +canoe, lest their being compelled to share in the labour of navigating +it should disgust and drive them from us. We, therefore, employed them +as much as possible on shore, as well to procure provisions, as to +lighten the canoe. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +JUNE, 1793. + +_Monday, 10._--At ten we were ready to embark. I then took leave of +the Indians, but encouraged them to expect us in two moons, and +expressed an hope that I should find them on the road with any of their +relations whom they might meet. I also returned the beaver skins to the +man who had presented them to me, desiring him to take care of them till +I came back, when I would purchase them of him. Our guide expressed +much less concern about the undertaking in which he had engaged, than +his companions, who appeared to be affected with great solicitude for +his safety. + +We now pushed off the canoe from the bank, and proceeded East half a +mile, when a river flowed in from the left, about half as large as that +which we were navigating. We continued the same course three quarters +of a mile, when we missed two of our fowling pieces, which had been +forgotten, and I sent their owners back for them, who were absent on +this errand upwards of an hour. We now proceeded North-East by East +half a mile, North-East by North three quarters of a mile, when the +current slackened; there was a verdant spot on the left, where, from the +remains of some Indian timber-work, it appeared, that the natives have +frequently encamped. Our next course was East one mile, and we saw a +ridge of mountains covered with snow to the South-East. The land on our +right was low and marshy for three or four miles, when it rose into a +range of heights that extended to the mountains. We proceeded +East-South-East a mile and a half, South-East by East one mile, East by +South three quarters of a mile, South-East by East one mile, East by +South half a mile, North-East by East one mile, South-East half a mile, +East-North-East a mile and a quarter, South-South-East half a mile, +North-North-East a mile and a half: here a river flowed in from the +left, which was about one-fourth part as large as that which received +its tributary waters. We then continued East by South half a mile, to +the foot of the mountain on the South of the above river. The course +now veered short, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, East by +South a quarter of a mile, South half a mile, South-East by South half a +mile, South-West a quarter of a mile, East by South a quarter of a mile, +veered to West-North-West a quarter of a mile, South-West one eighth of +a mile, East-South-East one quarter of a mile, East one sixth of a mile, +South-South-West one twelfth of a mile, East-South-East one eighth of a +mile, North-East by East one third of a mile, East by North one twelfth +of a mile, North-East by East one third of a mile, East one sixteenth of +a mile, South-East one twelfth of a mile, North-East by East one twelfth +of a mile, East one eighth of a mile, and East-South-East half a mile, +when we landed at seven o'clock and encamped. During the greatest part +of the distance we came to-day, the river runs close under the mountains +on the left. + + +_Tuesday, 11._--The morning was clear and cold. On my interpreter's +encouraging the guide to dispel all apprehension, to maintain his +fidelity to me, and not to desert in the night, "How is it possible for +me," he replied, "to leave the lodge of the Great Spirit!--When he +tells me that he has no further occasion for me, I will then return to +my children." As we proceeded, however, he soon lost, and with good +reason, his exalted notions of me. + +[Transcriber's Note: The date of this journal entry was given as +_Wednesday, 12._ in this edition. It has been corrected here to be in +agreement with context and with other editions.] + +At four we continued our voyage, steering East by South a mile and a +half, East-South-East half a mile. A river appeared on the left, at the +foot of a mountain which, from its conical form, my young Indian called +the Beaver Lodge Mountain. Having proceeded South-South-East half a +mile, another river appeared from the right. We now came in a line with +the beginning of the mountains we saw yesterday: others of the same kind +ran parallel with them on the left side of the river, which was reduced +to the breadth of fifteen yards, and with a moderate current. + +We now steered East-North-East one eighth of a mile, South-East by South +one eighth of a mile, East-South-East one sixth of a mile, South-West +one eighth of a mile, East-South-East one eighth of a mile, +South-South-East one sixth of a mile, North-East by East one twelfth of +a mile, East-South-East half a mile, South-West by West one third of a +mile, South-South-East one eighth of a mile, South-South-West one +quarter of a mile, North-East one sixth of a mile, South by West one +fourth of a mile, East three quarters of a mile, and North-East one +quarter of a mile. Here the mountain on the left appeared to be +composed of a succession of round hills, covered with wood almost to +their summits, which were white with snow, and crowned with withered +trees. We now steered East, in a line with the high lands on the right +five miles; North one twelfth of a mile, North-East by North one eighth +of a mile, South by East one sixteenth of a mile, North-East by North +one fourth of a mile, where another river fell in from the right; +North-East by East one sixth of a mile, East two miles and a half, South +one twelfth of a mile, North-East half a mile, South-East one third of a +mile, East one mile and a quarter, South-South-West one sixteenth of a +mile, North-East by East half a mile, East one mile and three quarters, +South and South-West by West half a mile, North-East half a mile, South +one third of a mile, North-East by North one sixth of a mile, East by +South one fourth of a mile, South one eighth of a mile, South-East three +quarters of a mile. The canoe had taken in so much water, that it was +necessary for us to land here, in order to stop the leakage, which +occasioned the delay of an hour and a quarter, North-East a quarter of a +mile, East-North-East a quarter of a mile, South-East by South a +sixteenth of a mile, East by South a twelfth of a mile, North-East one +sixth of a mile, East-South-East one sixteenth of a mile, South-West +half a mile, North-East a quarter of a mile, East by South half a mile, +South-South-East one twelfth of a mile, East half a mile, North-East by +North a quarter of a mile, South-South-East a quarter of a mile, +North-East by North one twelfth of a mile, where a small river flowed in +from the left, South-East by East one twelfth of a mile, South by East a +quarter of a mile, South-East one eighth of a mile, East one twelfth of +a mile, North-East by North a quarter of a mile, South half a mile, +South-East by South one eighth of a mile, North-East one fourth of a +mile, South-East by East, and South-East by South one third of a mile, +East-South-East, and North-North-East one third of a mile, and South by +West, East and East-North-East one eighth of a mile. + +Here we quitted the main branch, which, according to the information of +our guide, terminates at a short distance, where it is supplied by the +snow which covers the mountains. In the same direction is a valley +which appears to be of very great depth, and is full of snow, that rises +nearly to the height of the land, and forms a reservoir of itself +sufficient to furnish a river, whenever there is a moderate degree of +heat. The branch which we left was not, at this time, more than ten +yards broad, while that which we entered was still less. Here the +current was very trifling, and the channel so meandering, that we +sometimes found it difficult to work the canoe forward. The straight +course from this to the entrance of a small lake or pond, is about East +one mile. This entrance by the river into the lake was almost choked up +by a quantity of drift-wood, which appeared to me to be an extraordinary +circumstance: but I afterwards found that it falls down from the +mountains. The water, however, was so high, that the country was +entirely overflowed, and we passed with the canoe among the branches of +trees. The principal wood along the banks is spruce, intermixed with a +few white birch, growing on detached spots, the intervening spaces being +covered with willow and elder. We advanced about a mile in the lake, +and took up our station for the night at an old Indian encampment. Here +we expected to meet with natives, but were disappointed; but our guide +encouraged us with the hope of seeing some on the morrow. We saw beaver +in the course of the afternoon, but did not discharge our pieces from +the fear of alarming the inhabitants; there were also swans in great +numbers, with geese and ducks, which we did not disturb for the same +reason. We observed also the tracks of moose-deer that had crossed the +river; and wild parsnips grew here in abundance, which have been already +mentioned as a grateful vegetable. Of birds, we saw bluejays, yellow +birds, and one beautiful humming-bird; of the first and last, I had not +seen any since I had been in the North-West. + + +_Wednesday June 12._--The weather was the same as yesterday, and we +proceeded between three and four in the morning. We took up the net +which we had set the preceding evening, when it contained a trout, one +white fish, one carp, and three jub. The lake is about two miles in +length, East by South, and from three to five hundred yards wide. This +I consider as the highest and Southernmost source of the Unjigah, or +Peace River, latitude, 54. 24. North, longitude 121. West from +Greenwich, which, after a winding course through a vast extent of +country, receiving many large rivers in its progress, and passing +through the Slave Lake, empties itself into the Frozen Ocean, in +70. North latitude, and about 135. West longitude. + +[Transcriber's Note: The date of the current journal entry is located +incorrectly in the text of this edition. It is moved here from context +and in agreement with other editions.] + +We landed and unloaded, where we found a beaten path leading over a low +ridge of land eight hundred and seventeen paces in length, to another +small lake. The distance between the two mountains at this place is +about a quarter of a mile, rocky precipices presenting themselves on +both sides. A few large spruce trees and liards were scattered over the +carrying-place. There were also willows along the side of the water, +with plenty of grass and weeds. The natives had left their old canoes +here, with baskets hanging on the trees, which contained various +articles. From the latter I took a net, some hooks, a goat's-horn, and +a kind of wooden trap, in which, as our guide informed me, the +ground-hog is taken. I left, however, in exchange, a knife, some +fire-steels, beads, awls, &c. Here two streams tumble down the rocks +from the right, and lose themselves in the lake which we had left; while +two others fall from the opposite heights, and glide into the lake which +we were approaching; this being the highest point of land dividing these +waters, and we are now going with the stream. This lake runs in the +same course as the last, but is rather narrower, and not more than half +the length. We were obliged to clear away some floating drift-wood to +get to the carrying-place, over which is a beaten path of only an +hundred and seventy-five paces long. The lake empties itself by a small +river, which, if the channel were not interrupted by large trees that +had fallen across it, would have admitted of our canoe with all its +lading: the impediment, in deed, might have been removed by two axe-men +in a few hours. On the edge of the water, we observed a large quantity +of thick yellow, scum or froth, of an acrid taste and smell. + +We embarked on this lake, which is in the same course, and about the +same size as that which we had just left, and from whence we passed into +a small river, that was so full of fallen wood, as to employ some time, +and require some exertion, to force a passage. At the entrance, it +afforded no more water than was just sufficient to bear the canoe; but +it was soon increased by many small streams which came in broken rills +down the rugged sides of the mountains, and were furnished, as I +suppose, by the melting of the snow. These accessory streamlets had all +the coldness of ice. Our course continued to be obstructed by banks of +gravel, as well as trees which had fallen across the river. We were +obliged to force our way through the one, and to cut through the other, +at a great expense of time and trouble. In many places the current was +also very rapid and meandering. At four in the afternoon, we stopped to +unload and carry, and at five we entered a small round lake of about one +third of a mile in diameter. From the last lake to this is, I think, in +a straight line, East by South six miles, though it is twice that +distance by the winding of the river. We again entered the river, which +soon ran with great rapidity, and rushed impetuously over a bed of flat +stones. At half past six we were stopped by two large trees that lay +across the river, and it was with great difficulty that the canoe was +prevented from driving against them. Here we unloaded and formed our +encampment. + +The weather was cloudy and raw, and as the circumstances of this day's +voyage had compelled us to be frequently in the water, which was cold as +ice, we were almost in a benumbed state. Some of the people who had +gone ashore to lighten the canoe, experienced great difficulty in +reaching us, from the rugged state of the country; it was, indeed, +almost dark when they arrived. We had no sooner landed than I sent two +men down the river to bring me some account of its circumstances, that I +might form a judgment of the difficulties which might await us on the +morrow; and they brought back a fearful detail of rapid currents, fallen +trees, and large stones. At this place our guide manifested evident +symptoms of discontent: he had been very much alarmed in going down some +of the rapids with us, and expressed an anxiety to return. He shewed us +a mountain, at no great distance, which he represented as being on the +other side of a river, into which this empties itself. + + +_Thursday, 13._--At an early hour of this morning the men began to cut +a road, in order to carry the canoe and lading beyond the rapid; and by +seven they were ready. That business was soon effected, and the canoe +reladen, to proceed with the current which ran with great rapidity. In +order to lighten her, it was my intention to walk with some of the +people; but those in the boat with great earnestness requested me to +embark, declaring, at the same time, that, if they perished, I should +perish with them. I did not then imagine in how short a period their +apprehension would be justified. We accordingly pushed off, and had +proceeded but a very short way when the canoe struck, and +notwithstanding all our exertions, the violence of the current was so +great as to drive her sideways down the river, and break her by the +first bar, when I instantly jumped into the water, and the men followed +my example; but before we could set her straight, or stop her, we came +to deeper water, so that we were obliged to re-embark with the utmost +precipitation. One of the men who was not sufficiently active, was left +to get on shore in the best manner in his power. We had hardly regained +our situations when we drove against a rock which shattered the stern of +the canoe in such a manner, that it held only by the gunwales, so that +the steersman could no longer keep his place. The violence of this +stroke drove us to the opposite side of the river, which is but narrow, +when the bow met with the same fate as the stern. At this moment the +foreman seized on some branches of a small tree in the hope of bringing +up the canoe, but such was their elasticity that, in a manner not easily +described, he was jerked on shore in an instant, and with a degree of +violence that threatened his destruction. But we had no time to turn +from our own situation to enquire what had befallen him; for, in a few +moments, we came across a cascade which broke several large holes in the +bottom of the canoe, and started all the bars, except one behind the +scooping seat. If this accident, however, had not happened, the vessel +must have been irretrievably overset. The wreck becoming flat on the +water, we all jumped out, while the steersman, who had been compelled to +abandon his place, and had not recovered from his fright, called out to +his companions to save themselves. My peremptory commands superseded +the effects of his fear, and they all held fast to the wreck; to which +fortunate resolution we owed our safety, as we should otherwise have +been dashed against the rocks by the force of the water, or driven over +the cascades. In this condition we were forced several hundred yards, +and every yard on the verge of destruction; but, at length, we most +fortunately arrived in shallow water and a small eddy, where we were +enabled to make a stand, from the weight of the canoe resting on the +stones, rather than from any exertions of our exhausted strength. For +though our efforts were short, they were pushed to the utmost, as life +or death depended on them. + +This alarming scene, with all its terrors and dangers, occupied only a +few minutes; and in the present suspension of it, we called to the +people on shore to come to our assistance, and they immediately obeyed +the summons. The foreman, however, was the first with us; he had +escaped unhurt from the extraordinary jerk with which he was thrown out +of the boat, and just as we were beginning to take our effects out of +the water, he appeared to give his assistance. The Indians, when they +saw our deplorable situation, instead of making the least effort to help +us, sat down and gave vent to their tears. I was on the outside of the +canoe, where I remained till every thing was got on shore, in a state of +great pain from the extreme cold of the water; so that at length, it was +with difficulty I could stand, from the benumbed state of my limbs. + +The loss was considerable and important, for it consisted of our whole +stock of balls, and some of our furniture; but these considerations were +forgotten in the impressions of our miraculous escape. Our first +inquiry was after the absent man, whom in the first moment of danger, we +had left to get on shore, and in a short time his appearance removed our +anxiety. We had, however, sustained no personal injury of consequence, +and my bruises seemed to be in the greater proportion. + +All the different articles were now spread out to dry. The powder had +fortunately received no damage, and all my instruments had escaped. +Indeed, when my people began to recover from their alarm, and to enjoy a +sense of safety, some of them, if not all, were by no means sorry for +our late misfortune, from the hope that it must put a period to our +voyage, particularly as we were without a canoe, and all the bullets +sunk in the river. It did not, indeed, seem possible to them that we +could proceed under these circumstances. I listened, however, to the +observations that were made on the occasion without replying to them, +till their panic was dispelled, and they had got themselves warm and +comfortable, with an hearty meal, and rum enough to raise their spirits. + +I then addressed them, by recommending them all to be thankful for their +late very narrow escape. I also stated, that the navigation was not +impracticable in itself, but from our ignorance of its course; and that +our late experience would enable us to pursue our voyage with greater +security. I brought to their recollection, that I did not deceive them, +and that they were made acquainted with the difficulties and dangers +they must expect to encounter, before they engaged to accompany me. I +also urged the honour of conquering disasters, and the disgrace that +would attend them on their return home, without having attained the +object of the expedition. Nor did I fail to mention the courage and +resolution which was the peculiar boast of the North men; and that I +depended on them, at that moment, for the maintenance of their +character. I quieted their apprehension as to the loss of the bullets, +by bringing to their recollection that we still had shot from which they +might be manufactured. I at the same time acknowledged the difficulty +of restoring the wreck of the canoe, but confided in our skill and +exertion to put it in such a state as would carry us on to where we +might procure bark, and build a new one. In short, my harangue produced +the desired effect, and a very general assent appeared to go wherever I +should lead the way. + +Various opinions were offered in the present posture of affairs, and it +was rather a general wish that the wreck should be abandoned, and all +the lading carried to the river, which our guide informed us was at no +great distance, and in the vicinity of woods where he believed there was +plenty of bark. This project seemed not to promise that certainty to +which I looked in my present operations; besides, I had my doubts +respecting the views of my guide, and consequently could not confide in +the representation he made to me. I therefore dispatched two of the men +at nine in the morning, with one of the young Indians, for I did not +venture to trust the guide out of my sight, in search of bark, and to +endeavor, if it were possible, in the course of the day, to penetrate to +the great river, into which that before us discharges itself in the +direction which the guide had communicated. I now joined my people in +order to repair, as well as circumstances would admit, our wreck of a +canoe, and I began to set them the example. + +At noon I had an altitude, which gave 54. 23. North latitude. At four +in the afternoon I took time, with the hope that in the night I might +obtain an observation of Jupiter, and his satellites, but I had not a +sufficient horizon, from the propinquity of the mountains. The result +of my calculation for the time was 1. 32. 28. slow apparent time. + +It now grew late, and the people who had been sent on the excursion +already mentioned, were, not yet returned; about ten o'clock, however, I +heard a man halloo, and I very gladly returned the signal. In a short +time our young Indian arrived with a small roll of indifferent bark: he +was oppressed with fatigue and hunger, and his clothes torn to rags: he +had parted with the other two men at sunset, who had walked the whole +day, in a dreadful country, without procuring any good bark, or being +able to get to the large river. His account of the river, on whose +banks we were, could not be more unfavourable or discouraging; it had +appeared to him to be little more than a succession of falls and rapids, +with occasional interruptions of fallen trees. + +Our guide became so dissatisfied and troubled in mind, that we could not +obtain from him any regular account of the country before us. All we +could collect from him was, that the river into which this empties +itself, is but a branch of a large river, the great fork being at no +great distance from the confluence of this; and that he knew of no lake, +or large body of still water, in the vicinity of these rivers. To this +account of the country, he added some strange, fanciful, but terrifying +descriptions of the natives, similar to those which were mentioned in +the former voyage. + +We had an escape this day, which I must add to the many instances of +good fortune which I experienced in this perilous expedition. The +powder had been spread out, to the amount of eighty pounds weight, to +receive the air; and, in this situation, one of the men carelessly and +composedly walked across it with a lighted pipe in his mouth, but +without any ill consequence resulting from such an act of criminal +negligence. I need not add that one spark might have put a period to +all my anxiety and ambition. + +I observed several trees and plants on the banks of this river, which I +had not seen to the North of the latitude 52. such as the cedar, maple, +hemlock, &c. At this time the water rose fast, and passed on with the +rapidity of an arrow shot from a bow. + + +_Friday 14._--The weather was fine, clear, and warm, and at an early +hour of the morning we resumed our repair of the canoe. At half past +seven our two men returned hungry and cold, not having tasted food, or +enjoyed the least repose for twenty-four hours, with their clothes torn +into tatters, and their skin lacerated, in passing through the woods. +Their account was the same as that brought by the Indian, with this +exception, that they had reason to think they saw the river, or branch +which our guide had mentioned: but they were of opinion that from the +frequent obstructions in this river, we should have to carry the whole +way to it, through a dreadful country, where much time and labour would +be required to open a passage through it. + +Discouraging as these accounts were, they did not, however, interrupt +for a moment the task in which we were engaged, of repairing the canoe; +and this work we contrived to complete by the conclusion of the day. +The bark which was brought by the Indian, with some pieces of oil-cloth, +and plenty of gum, enabled us to put our shattered vessel in a condition +to answer our present purposes. The guide, who has been mentioned as +manifesting continual signs of dissatisfaction, now assumed an air of +contentment, which I attributed to a smoke that was visible in the +direction of the river; as he naturally expected, if we should fall in +with any natives, which was now very probable, from such a circumstance, +that he should be released from a service which he had found so irksome +and full of danger. I had an observation at noon, which made our +latitude 54. 23. 48. North. I also took time, and found it slow +apparent time 1. 38. 44. + + +_Saturday, 15._--The weather continued the same as the preceding day, +and according to the directions which I had previously given, my people +began at a very early hour to open a road, through which we might carry +a part of our lading; as I was fearful of risking the whole of it in the +canoe, in its present weak state, and in a part of the river which is +full of shoals and rapids. Four men were employed to conduct her, +lightened as she was of twelve packages. They passed several dangerous +places, and met with various obstructions, the current of the river +being frequently stopped by rafts of drift wood, and fallen trees, so +that after fourteen hours hard labour we had not made more than three +miles. Our course was South-East by East, and as we had not met with +any accident, the men appeared to feel a renewed courage to continue +their voyage. In the morning, however, one of the crew, whose name was +Beauchamp, peremptorily refused to embark in the canoe. This being the +first example of absolute disobedience which had yet appeared during the +course of our expedition, I should not have passed it over without +taking some very severe means to prevent a repetition of it; but as he +had the general character of a simple fellow, among his companions, and +had been frightened out of what little sense he possessed, by our late +dangers, I rather preferred to consider him as unworthy of accompanying +us, and to represent him as an object of ridicule and contempt for his +pusillanimous behaviour; though, in fact, he was a very useful, active, +and laborious man. + +At the close of the day we assembled round a blazing fire; and the whole +party, being enlivened with the usual beverage which I supplied on these +occasions, forgot their fatigues and apprehensions; nor did they fail to +anticipate the pleasure they should enjoy in getting clear of their +present difficulties, and gliding onwards with a strong and steady +stream, which our guide had described as the characteristic of the large +river we soon expected to enter. + + +_Sunday, 16._--The fine weather continued, and we began our work, as +we had done the preceding day; some were occupied in opening a road, +others were carrying, and the rest employed in conducting the canoe. I +was of the first party, and soon discovered that we had encamped about +half a mile above several falls, over which we could not attempt to run +the canoe, lightened even as she was. This circumstance rendered it +necessary that the road should be made sufficiently wide to admit the +canoe to pass; a tedious and toilsome work. In running her down a rapid +above the falls, a hole was broken in her bottom, which occasioned a +considerable delay, as we were destitute of the materials necessary for +her effectual reparation. On my being informed of this misfortune, I +returned, and ordered Mr. Mackay, with two Indians, to quit their +occupation in making the road, and endeavour to penetrate to the great +river, according to the direction which the guide had communicated, +without paying any attention to the course of the river before us. + +When the people had repaired the canoe in the best manner they were +able, we conducted her to the head of the falls; she was then unloaded +and taken out of the water, when we carried her for a considerable +distance through a low, swampy country. I appointed four men to this +laborious office, which they executed at the peril of their lives, for +the canoe was now become so heavy, from the additional quantity of bark +and gum necessary to patch her up, that two men could not carry her more +than an hundred yards, without being relieved; and as their way lay +through deep mud, which was rendered more difficult by the roots and +prostrate trunks of trees, they were every moment in danger of falling; +and beneath such a weight, one false step might have been attended with +fatal consequences. The other two men and myself followed as fast as we +could, with the lading. Thus did we toil till seven o'clock in the +evening, to get to the termination of the road that had been made in the +morning. Here Mr. Mackay and the Indian joined us, after having been at +the river, which they represented as rather large. They had also +observed, that the lower part of the river before us was so full of +fallen wood, that the attempt to clear a passage through it, would be an +unavailing labour. The country through which they had passed was +morass, and almost impenetrable wood. In passing over one of the +embarras, our dog, which was following them, fell in, and it was with +very great difficulty that he was saved, as the current had carried him +under the drift. They brought with them two geese, which had been shot +in the course of their expedition. To add to our perplexities and +embarrassments, we were persecuted by mosquitoes and sand-flies, through +the whole of the day. + +The extent of our journey was not more than two miles South-East; and so +much fatigue and pain had been suffered in the course of it, that my +people, as might be expected, looked forward to a continuance of it with +discouragement and dismay. I was, indeed, informed that murmurs +prevailed among them, of which, however, I took no notice. When we were +assembled together for the night, I gave each of them a dram, and in a +short time they retired to the repose which they so much required. We +could discover the termination of the mountains at a considerable +distance on either side of us, which, according to my conjecture, marked +the course of the great river. On the mountains to the East there were +several fires, as their smokes were very visible to us. Excessive heat +prevailed throughout the day. + + +_Monday, 17._--Having sat up till twelve last night, which had been my +constant practice since we had taken our present guide, I awoke +Mr. Mackay to watch him in turn. I then laid down to rest, and at three +I was awakened to be informed that he had deserted. Mr. Mackay, with +whom I was displeased on this occasion, and the Cancre, accompanied by +the dog, went in search of him, but he had made his escape: a design +which he had for some time meditated, though I had done every thing in +my power to induce him to remain with me. + +This misfortune did not produce any relaxation in our exertions. At an +early hour of the morning we were all employed in cutting a passage of +three quarters of a mile, through which we carried our canoe and cargo, +when we put her into the water with her lading, but in a very short time +were stopped by the drift-wood, and were obliged to land and carry. In +short, we pursued our alternate journeys, by land and water, till noon, +when we could proceed no further, from the various small unnavigable +channels into which the river branched in every direction; and no other +mode of getting forward now remained for us, but by cutting a road +across a neck of land. I accordingly dispatched two men to ascertain +the exact distance, and we employed the interval of their absence in +unloading and getting the canoe out of the water. It was eight in the +evening when we arrived at the bank of the great river. This journey +was three quarters of a mile East-North-East, through a continued swamp, +where, in many places, we waded up to the middle of our thighs. Our +course in the small river was about South-East by East three miles. At +length we enjoyed, after all our toil and anxiety, the inexpressible +satisfaction of finding ourselves on the bank of a navigable river, on +the West side of the first great range of mountains. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +JUNE, 1793. + +_Tuesday, 18._--It rained throughout the night and till seven in the +morning; nor was I sorry that the weather gave me an excuse for +indulging my people with that additional rest, which their fatigues, +during the last three days, rendered so comfortable to them. Before +eight, however, we were on the water, and driven on by a strong current, +when we steered East-South-East half a mile, South-West by South half a +mile, South-South-East half a mile, South-West half a mile, went round +to North-West half a mile, backed South-South-East three quarters of a +mile, South-South-West half a mile, South by East a quarter of a mile, +and South-West by South three quarters of a mile. Here the water had +fallen considerably, so that several mud and sand-banks were visible. +There was also a hill a-head, West-South-West. + +The weather was so hazy that we could not see across the river, which is +here about two hundred yards wide. We now proceeded South by West one +third of a mile, when we saw a considerable quantity of beaver work +along the banks, North-North-West half a mile, South-West by West one +mile and a half, South-South-West one third of a mile, West by South one +third of a mile, South by East half a mile. Mountains rose on the left, +immediately above the river, whose summits were covered with snow; +South-West half a mile, South a quarter of a mile, South-East one third +of a mile, South-South-West half a mile. Here are several islands; we +then veered to West by South a third of a mile, South-South-East a sixth +of a mile. On the right, the land is high, rocky, and covered with +wood; West-South-West one mile; a small river running in from the +South-East; South-West half a mile, South three quarters of a mile, +South-West half a mile, South by West half a mile. Here a rocky point +protrudes from the left, and narrows the river to a hundred yards; +South-East half a mile, East by South one eighth of a mile. The current +now was very strong, but perfectly safe; South-East by South an eighth +of a mile, West by North one third of a mile, South by West a twelfth of +a mile, South-West one fourth of a mile. Here the high land terminates +on one side of the river, while rocks rise to a considerable height +immediately above the other, and the channel widens to a hundred and +fifty yards, West by South one mile. The river now narrows again +between rocks of a moderate height, North-North-East an eighth of a +mile, veered to South-West an eighth of a mile, South and South-West +half a mile. The country appeared to be low, as far as I could judge of +it from the canoe, as the view is confined by woods at the distance of +about a hundred yards from the banks. Our course continued West by +North two miles, North half a mile, North-West a quarter of a mile, +South-West two miles, North-West three quarters of a mile; when a ridge +of high land appeared in this direction; West one mile. A small river +flowed in from the North; South a quarter of a mile, North-West half a +mile, South-South-West two miles and a half, South-East three quarters +of a mile; a rivulet lost itself in the main stream, West-North-West +half a mile. Here the current slackened, and we proceeded +South-South-West three quarters of a mile, South-West three quarters of +a mile, South by East three quarters of a mile, South-East by East one +mile, when it veered gradually to West-North-West half a mile; the river +being full of islands. We proceeded due North, with little current, the +river presenting a beautiful sheet of water for a mile and a half, +South-West by West one mile, West-North-West one mile, when it veered +round to South-East one mile, West by North one mile, South-East one +mile, West by North three quarters of a mile, South one eighth of a +mile, when we came to an Indian cabin of late erection. Here was the +great fork, of which our guide had informed us, and it appeared to be +the largest branch from the South-East. It is about half a mile in +breadth, and assumes the form of a lake. The current was very slack, +and we got into the middle of the channel, when we steered West, and +sounded in sixteen feet water. + +A ridge of high land now stretched on, as it were, across our present +direction: this course was three miles. We then proceeded +West-South-West two miles, and sounded in twenty-four feet water. Here +the river narrowed and the current increased. We then continued our +course North-North-West three quarters of a mile, a small river falling +in from the North-East. It now veered to South by West one mile and a +quarter, West-South-West four miles and a half, West by North one mile +and a quarter, North-West by West one mile, West a mile and a quarter: +the land was high on both sides, and the river narrowed to an hundred +and fifty, or two hundred yards; North-West three quarters of a mile, +South-West by South two miles and a half: here its breadth again +increased; South by West one mile, West-South-West half a mile, +South-West by South three miles, South-South-East one mile, with a small +river running in from the left, South with a strong current one mile, +then East three quarters of a mile, South-West one mile, +South-South-East a mile and a half; the four last distances being a +continual rapid, South-West by West one mile, East-North-East a mile and +a half, East-South-East one mile, where a small river flowed in on the +right; South-West by South two miles and a half, when another small +river appeared from the same quarter; South by East half a mile and +South-West by West one mile and a quarter: here we landed for the night. +When we had passed the last river we observed smoke rising from it, as +if produced by fires that had been fresh lighted; I therefore concluded +that there were natives on its banks: but I was unwilling to fatigue my +people, by pulling back against the current in order to go in search of +them. + +This river appeared, from its high water-mark, to have fallen no more +than one foot, while the smaller branch, from a similar measurement, had +sunk two feet and a half. On our entering it, we saw a flock of ducks +which were entirely white, except the bill and part of the wings. The +weather was cold and raw throughout the day, and the wind South-West. +We saw a smoke rising in columns from many parts of the woods, and I +should have been more anxious to see the natives, if there had been any +person with me who could have introduced me to them; but as that object +could not be then attained without considerable loss of time, I +determined to pursue the navigation while it continued to be so +favourable, and to wait till my return, if no very convenient +opportunity offered in the mean time, to engage an intercourse with +them. + + +_Wednesday, 19._--The morning was foggy, and at three we were on the +water. At half past that hour, our course was East by South three +quarters of a mile, a small river flowing in from the right. We then +proceeded South by East half a mile, and South-South-West a mile and a +half. During the last distance, clouds of thick smoke rose from the +woods, that darkened the atmosphere, accompanied with a strong odour of +the gum of cypress and the spruce-fir. Our courses continued to be +South-West a mile and a quarter, North-West by West three quarters of a +mile, South-South-East a mile and a quarter, East three quarters of a +mile, South-West one mile, West by South three quarters of a mile, +South-East by South three quarters of a mile, South by West half a mile, +West by South three quarters of a mile, South by West two miles and a +half. In the last course there was an island, and it appeared to me, +that the main channel of the river had formerly been on the other side +of it. The banks were here composed of high white cliffs, crowned with +pinnacles in very grotesque shapes. We continued to steer South-East by +South a mile and a half, South by East half a mile, East one mile and a +quarter, South-East by East one mile, South by East three quarters of a +mile, South-East by East one mile, South-South-East half a mile, East +one mile and a quarter, South by East half a mile, East a mile and half, +South-South-East three miles, and South-West three quarters of a mile. +In the last course the rocks contracted in such a manner on both sides +of the river, as to afford the appearance of the upper part of a fall or +cataract. Under this apprehension we landed on the left shore, where we +found a kind of footpath, imperfectly traced, through which we +conjectured that the natives occasionally passed with their canoes and +baggage. On examining the course of the river, however, there did not +appear to be any fall as we expected; but the rapids were of a +considerable length and impassable for a light canoe. We had therefore +no alternative but to widen the road so as to admit the passage of our +canoe, which was now carried with great difficulty; as from her frequent +repairs, and not always of the usual materials, her weight was such, +that she cracked and broke on the shoulders of the men who bore her. +The labour and fatigue of this undertaking, from eight till twelve, +beggars all description, when we at length conquered this afflicting +passage, of about half a mile, over a rocky and most rugged hill. Our +course was South-South-West. Here I took a meridian altitude which gave +me 53. 42. 20. North latitude. We, however, lost some time to put our +canoe in a condition to carry us onwards. Our course was South a +quarter of a mile to the next carrying-place; which was nothing more +than a rocky point about twice the length of the canoe. From the +extremity of this point to the rocky and almost perpendicular bank that +rose on the opposite shore, is not more than forty or fifty yards. The +great body of water, at the same time tumbling in successive cascades +along the first carrying-place, rolls through this narrow passage in a +very turbid current, and full of whirlpools. On the banks of the river +there was great plenty of wild onions, which when mixed up with our +pemmican was a great improvement of it; though they produced a physical +effect on our appetites, which was rather inconvenient to the state of +our provisions. + +Here we embarked, and steered South-East by East three quarters of a +mile. We now saw a smoke on the shore; but before we could reach land +the natives had deserted their camp, which appeared to be erected for no +more than two families. My two Indians were instantly dispatched in +search of them, and, by following their tracks, they soon overtook them; +but their language was mutually unintelligible; and all attempts to +produce a friendly communication were fruitless. They no sooner +perceived my young men than they prepared their bows and arrows, and +made signs for them not to advance; and they thought it prudent to +desist from proceeding, though not before the natives had discharged +five arrows at them, which, however, they avoided, by means of the +trees. When they returned with this account, I very much regretted that +I had not accompanied them; and as these people could not be at any very +great distance, I took Mr. Mackay, and one of the Indians with me in +order to overtake them; but they had got so far it would have been +imprudent in me to have followed them. My Indians, who, I believe, were +terrified at the manner in which these natives received them, informed +me, that, besides their bows, arrows, and spears, they were armed with +long knives, and that they accompanied their strange antics with +menacing actions and loud shoutings. On my return, I found my people +indulging their curiosity in examining the bags and baskets which the +natives had left behind them. Some of them contained their fishing +tackle, such as nets, lines, &c., others of a smaller size were filled +with a red earth, with which they paint themselves. In several of the +bags there were also sundry articles of which we did not know the use. +I prevented my men from taking any of them; and for a few articles of +mere curiosity, which I took myself, I left such things in exchange as +would be much more useful to their owners. + +At four we left this place, proceeding with the stream South-East three +quarters of a mile, East-South-East one mile, South three quarters of a +mile, South-South-West one mile, South by East three quarters of a mile, +South-South-East one mile, South-South-West two miles, South-South-East +three miles and a quarter, East by North one mile, South-South-East one +mile and a quarter, with a rapid, South-South-West three quarters of a +mile, South one mile and a half, South-East one mile and a quarter, +South three quarters of a mile, and South-South-East one mile and a +half. At half past seven we landed for the night, where a small river +flowed in from the right. The weather was showery, accompanied with +several loud claps of thunder. The banks were overshadowed by lofty +firs, and wide-spreading cedars. + + +_Thursday, 20._--The morning was foggy, and at half past four we +proceeded with a South wind, South-East by East two miles, +South-South-East two miles and a half, and South-South-West two miles. +The fog was so thick, that we could not see the length of our canoe, +which rendered our progress dangerous, as we might have come suddenly +upon a cascade or violent rapid. Our next course was West-North-West +two miles and a half, which comprehended a rapid. Being close in with +the left bank of the river, we perceived two red deer at the very edge +of the water: we killed one of them, and wounded the other, which was +very small. We now landed, and the Indians followed the wounded animal, +which they soon caught, and would have shot another in the woods, if our +dog, who followed them, had not disturbed it. From the number of their +tracks it appeared that they abounded in this country. They are not so +large as the elk of the Peace River, but are the real red deer, which I +never saw in the North, though I have been told that they are to be +found in great numbers in the plains along the Red, or Assiniboin River. +The bark had been stripped off many of the spruce trees, and carried +away, as I presumed, by the natives, for the purpose of covering their +cabins. We now got the venison on board, and continued our voyage +South-West one mile, South a mile and a half, and West one mile. Here +the country changed its appearance; the banks were but of a moderate +height, from whence the ground continued gradually rising to a +considerable distance, covered with poplars and cypresses, but without +any kind of underwood. There are also several low points which the +river, that is here about three hundred yards in breadth, sometimes +overflows, and are shaded with the liard, the soft birch, the spruce, +and the willow. For some distance before we came to this part of the +river, our view was confined within very rugged, irregular, and lofty +banks, which were varied with the poplar, different kinds of spruce fir, +small birch trees, cedars, alders, and several species of the willow. +Our next course was South-West by West six miles, when we landed at a +deserted house, which was the only Indian habitation of this kind that I +had seen on this side of Mechilimakina. It was about thirty feet long +and twenty wide, with three doors, three feet high by one foot and an +half in breadth. From this and other circumstances, it appears to have +been constructed for three families. There were also three fire-places, +at equal distances from each other; and the beds were on either side of +them. Behind the beds was a narrow space, in the form of a manger, and +somewhat elevated, which was appropriated to the purpose of keeping +fish. The wall of the house, which was five feet in height, was formed +of very strait spruce timbers, brought close together, and laid into +each other at the corners. The roof was supported by a ridge pole, +resting on two upright forks of about ten feet high; that and the wall +support a certain number of spars, which are covered with spruce bark; +and the whole attached and secured by the fibers of the cedar. One of +the gable ends is closed with split boards; the other with poles. Large +rods are also fixed across the upper part of the building, where fish +may hang and dry. To give the walls additional strength, upright posts +are fixed in the ground, at equal distances, both within and without, of +the same height as the wall, and firmly attached with bark fibres. +Openings appear also between the logs in the wall, for the purpose, as I +conjectured, of discharging their arrows at a besieging enemy; they +would be needless for the purpose of giving light, which is sufficiently +afforded by fissures between the logs of the building, so that it +appeared to be constructed merely for a summer habitation. There was +nothing further to attract our attention in or about the house, except a +large machine, which must have rendered the taking off the roof +absolutely necessary, in order to have introduced it. It was of a +cylindrical form, fifteen feet long, and four feet and an half in +diameter; one end was square, like the head of a cask, and an conical +machine was fixed inwards to the other end, of similar dimensions; at +the extremity of which was an opening of about seven inches in diameter. +This machine was certainly contrived to set in the river, to catch large +fish; and very well adapted to that purpose; as when they are once in, +it must be impossible for them to get out, unless they should have +strength sufficient to break through it. It was made of long pieces of +split wood, rounded to the size of a small finger, and placed at the +distance of an inch asunder, on six hoops; to this was added a kind of +boot of the same materials, into which it may be supposed that the fish +are driven, when they are to be taken out. The house was left in such +apparent order as to mark the design of its owners to return thither. +It answered in every particular the description given us by our late +guide, except that it was not situated on an island. + +We left this place, and steered South by East one mile and a quarter +when we passed where there had been another house, of which the +ridge-pole and supporters alone remained: the ice had probably carried +away the body of it. The bank was at this time covered with water, and +a small river flowed in on the left. On a point we observed an erection +that had the appearance of a tomb; it was in an oblong form, covered, +and very neatly walled with bark. A pole was fixed near it, to which, +at the height of ten or twelve feet, a piece of bark was attached, which +was probably a memorial, or symbol of distinction. Our next course was +South by West two miles and a half, when we saw a house on an island, +South-East by East one mile and three quarters, in which we observed +another island, with a house upon it. A river also flowed from the +right, and the land was high and rocky, and wooded with the epinette. + +Our canoe was now become so crazy that it was a matter of absolute +necessity to construct another; and as from the appearance of the +country there was reason to expect that bark was to be found, we landed +at eight, with the hope of procuring it. I accordingly dispatched four +men with that commission, and at twelve they returned with a sufficient +quantity to make the bottom of a canoe of five fathom in length, and +four feet and a half in height. At noon I had an observation, which +gave me 53. 17. 28. North latitude. + +We now continued our voyage South-East by South one mile and a half, +East-South-East one mile, East-North-East half a mile, South-East two +miles, South-East by South one mile, South-East six miles, and +East-North-East. Here the river narrows between steep rocks, and a +rapid succeeded, which was so violent that we did not venture to run it. +I therefore ordered the loading to be taken out of the canoe, but she +was now become so heavy that the men preferred running the rapid to the +carrying her overland. Though I did not altogether approve of their +proposition, I was unwilling to oppose it. Four of them undertook this +hazardous expedition, and I hastened to the foot of the rapid with great +anxiety, to wait the event, which turned out as I expected. The water +was so strong, that although they kept clear of the rocks, the canoe +filled, and in this state they drove half way down the rapid, but +fortunately she did not overset; and having got her into an eddy, they +emptied her, and in an half-drowned condition arrived safe on shore. +The carrying-place is about half a mile over, with an Indian path across +it. Mr. Mackay, and the hunters, saw some deer on an island above the +rapid; and had that discovery been made before the departure of the +canoe, there is little doubt but we should have added a considerable +quantity of venison to our stock of provisions. Our vessel was in such +a wretched condition, as I have already observed, that it occasioned a +delay of three hours to put her in a condition to proceed. At length we +continued our former course, East-North-East a mile and a half, when we +passed an extensive Indian encampment; East-South-East one mile, where a +small river appeared on the left; South-East by South one mile and three +quarters, East by South half a mile, East by North one mile, and saw +another house on an island; South half a mile, West three quarters of a +mile, South-West half a mile, where the cliffs of white and red clay +appeared like the ruins of ancient castles. Our canoe now veered +gradually to East-North-East one mile and a half, when we landed in a +storm of rain and thunder, where we perceived the remains of Indian +houses. It was impossible to determine the wind in any part of the day, +as it came a-head in all our directions. + + +_Friday, 21._--As I was very sensible of the difficulty of procuring +provisions in this country, I thought it prudent to guard against any +possibility of distress of that kind on our return; I therefore ordered +ninety pounds weight of pemmican to be buried in a hole, sufficiently +deep to admit of a fire over it without doing any injury to our hidden +treasure, and which would, at the same time, secure it from the natives +of the country, or the wild animals of the woods. + +The morning was very cloudy, and at four o'clock we renewed our voyage, +steering South by East one mile and a quarter, East-South-East half a +mile, South by East one mile and a half, East half a mile, South-East +two miles, where a large river flowed in from the left, and a smaller +one from the right. We then continued South by West three quarters of a +mile, East by South a mile and a half, South three quarters of a mile, +South-East by East one mile, South by East half a mile, South-East three +quarters of a mile, South-East by South half a mile, South-East by East +half a mile, the cliffs of blue and yellow clay, displaying the same +grotesque shapes as those which we passed yesterday, South-South-East a +mile and a half, South by East two miles. The latitude by observation +was 52. 47. 51. North. + +Here we perceived a small new canoe, that had been drawn up to the edge +of the woods, and soon after another appeared, with one man in it, which +came out of a small river. He no sooner saw us than he gave the whoop +to alarm his friends, who immediately appeared on the bank, armed with +bows and arrows, and spears. They were thinly habited, and displayed +the most outrageous antics. Though they were certainly in a state of +great apprehension, they manifested by their gestures that they were +resolved to attack us, if we should venture to land. I therefore +ordered the men to stop the way of the canoe, and even to check her +drifting with the current, as it would have been extreme folly to have +approached these savages before their fury had in some degree subsided. +My interpreters, who understood their language, informed me that they +threatened us with instant death if we drew nigh the shore; and they +followed the menace by discharging a volley of arrows, some of which +fell short of the canoe, and others passed over it, so that they +fortunately did us no injury. + +As we had been carried by the current below the spot where the Indians +were, I ordered my people to paddle to the opposite side of the river, +without the least appearance of confusion, so that they brought me +abreast of them. My interpreters, while we were within hearing, had +done every thing in their power to pacify them, but in vain. We also +observed that they had sent off a canoe with two men, down the river, as +we concluded, to communicate their alarm, and procure assistance. This +circumstance determined me to leave no means untried that might engage +us in a friendly intercourse with them, before they acquired additional +security and confidence, by the arrival of their relations and +neighbours, to whom their situation would be shortly notified. + +I therefore formed the following adventurous project, which was happily +crowned with success. I left the canoe, and walked by myself along the +beach, in order to induce some of the natives to come to me, which I +imagined they might be disposed to do, when they saw me alone, without +any apparent possibility of receiving assistance from my people, and +would consequently imagine that a communication with me was not a +service of danger. At the same time, in order to possess the utmost +security of which my situation was susceptible, I directed one of the +Indians to slip into the woods, with my gun and his own, and to conceal +himself from their discovery; he also had orders to keep as near me as +possible, without being seen; and if any of the natives should venture +across, and attempt to shoot me from the water, it was his instructions +to lay him low: at the same time he was particularly enjoined not to +fire till I had discharged one or both of the pistols that I carried in +my belt. If, however, any of them were to land, and approach my person, +he was immediately to join me. In the meantime my other interpreter +assured them that we entertained the most friendly dispositions, which I +confirmed by such signals as I conceived would be comprehended by them. +I had not, indeed, been long at my station, and my Indian in ambush +behind me, when two of the natives came off in a canoe, but stopped when +they had got within a hundred yards of me. I made signs for them to +land, and as an inducement, displayed looking-glasses, beads, and other +alluring trinkets. At length, but with every mark of extreme +apprehension, they approached the shore, stern foremost, but would not +venture to land. I now made them a present of some beads, with which +they were going to push off, when I renewed my entreaties, and, after +some time, prevailed on them to come ashore, and sit down by me. My +hunter now thought it right to join me, and created some alarm in my new +acquaintance. It was, however, soon removed, and I had the satisfaction +to find, that he and these people perfectly understood each other. I +instructed him to say every thing that might tend to soothe their fears +and win their confidence. I expressed my wish to conduct them to our +canoe, but they declined my offer; and when they observed some of my +people coming towards us, they requested me to let them return; and I +was so well satisfied with the progress I had made in my intercourse +with them, that I did not hesitate a moment in complying with their +desire. During their short stay, they observed us, and every thing +about us, with a mixture of admiration and astonishment. We could +plainly distinguish that their friends received them with great joy on +their return, and that the articles which they carried back with them +were examined with a general and eager curiosity; they also appeared to +hold a consultation, which lasted about a quarter of an hour, and the +result was, an invitation to come over to them, which was cheerfully +accepted. Nevertheless, on our landing they betrayed evident signs of +confusion, which arose probably from the quickness of our movements, as +the prospect of a friendly communication had so cheered the spirits of +my people, that they paddled across the river with the utmost +expedition. The two men, however, who had been with us, appeared, very +naturally, to possess the greatest share of courage on the occasion, and +were ready to receive us on our landing; but our demeanour soon +dispelled all their apprehensions, and the most familiar communication +took place between us. When I had secured their confidence, by the +distribution of trinkets among them, and treated the children with +sugar, I instructed my interpreters to collect every necessary +information in their power to afford me. + +According to their account, this river, whose course is very extensive, +runs towards the mid-day sun; and that at its mouth, as they had been +informed, white people were building houses. They represented its +current to be uniformly strong, and that in three places it was +altogether impassable, from the falls and rapids, which poured along +between perpendicular rocks that were much higher, and more rugged, than +any we had yet seen, and would not admit of any passage over them. But +besides the dangers and difficulties of the navigation, they added, that +we should have to encounter the inhabitants of the country, who were +very numerous. They also represented their immediate neighbours as a +very malignant race, who lived in large subterraneous recesses; and when +they were made to understand that it was our design to proceed to the +sea, they dissuaded us from prosecuting our intention, as we should +certainly become a sacrifice to the savage spirit of the natives. These +people they described as possessing iron, arms, and utensils, which they +procured from their neighbours to the Westward, and were obtained by a +commercial progress from people like ourselves, who brought them in +great canoes. + +Such an account of our situation, exaggerated as it might be in some +points, and erroneous in others, was sufficiently alarming, and awakened +very painful reflections: nevertheless it did not operate on my mind so +as to produce any change in my original determination. My first object, +therefore, was to persuade two of these people to accompany me, that +they might secure to us a favourable reception from their neighbours. +To this proposition they assented, but expressed some degree of +dissatisfaction at the immediate departure, for which we were making +preparation; but when we were ready to enter the canoe, a small one was +seen doubling the point below, with three men in it. We thought it +prudent to wait for their arrival, and they proved to be some of their +relations, who had received the alarm from the messengers which I have +already mentioned as having been sent down the river for that purpose, +and who had passed on, as we were afterwards informed, to extend the +notice of our arrival. Though these people saw us in the midst of their +friends, they displayed the most menacing actions, and hostile postures. +At length, however, this wild, savage spirit appeared to subside, and +they were persuaded to land. One of them, who was a middle aged person, +whose agitations had been less frequent than those of his companions, +and who was treated with particular respect by them all, inquired who we +were, whence we came, whither we were going, and what was the motive of +our coming into that country. When his friends had satisfied him as far +as they were able, respecting us, he instantly advised us to delay our +departure for that night, as their relations below, having been by this +time alarmed by the messengers, who had been sent for that purpose, +would certainly oppose our passage, notwithstanding I had two of their +own people with me. He added, that they would all of them be here by +sunset, they would convinced, as he was, that we were good people, and +meditated no ill designs against them. + +Such were the reasons which this Indian urged in favour of our remaining +till the next morning; and they were too well founded for me to hesitate +in complying with them; besides, by prolonging my stay till the next +morning, it was probable that I might obtain some important intelligence +respecting the country through which I was to pass, and the people who +inhabited it. I accordingly ordered the canoe to be unloaded, taken out +of the water, and gummed. My tent was also pitched, and the natives +were now become so familiar, that I was obliged to let them know my wish +to be alone and undisturbed. + +My first application to the native whom I have already particularly +mentioned, was to obtain from him such a plan of the river as he should +be enabled to give me; and he complied with this request with a degree +of readiness and intelligence that evidently proved it was by no means a +new business to him. In order to acquire the best information he could +communicate, I assured him, if I found his account correct, that I +should either return myself, or send others to them, with such articles +as they appeared to want: particularly arms and ammunition, with which +they would be able to prevent their enemies from invading them. I +obtained, however, no addition to what I already knew, but that the +country below us, as far as he was acquainted with it, abounded in +animals, and that the river produced plenty of fish. + +Our canoe was now become so weak, leaky, and unmanageable, that it +became a matter of absolute necessity to construct a new one; and I had +been informed, that if we delayed that important work till we got +further down the river, we should not be able to procure bark. I +therefore dispatched two of my people, with an Indian, in search of that +necessary material. The weather was so cloudy that I could not get an +observation.[1] + +I passed the rest of the day in conversing with these people: they +consisted of seven families, containing eighteen men, they were clad in +leather, and handsome beaver and rabbit-skin blankets. They had not +been long arrived in this part of the country, where they proposed to +pass the summer, to catch fish for their winter provision: for this +purpose they were preparing machines similar to that which we found in +the first Indian house we saw and described. The fish which they take +in them are large, and only visit this part of the river at certain +seasons. These people differ very little, if at all, either in their +appearance, language, or manners, from the Rocky-Mountain Indians. The +men whom I sent in search of bark, returned with a certain quantity of +it, but of a very indifferent kind. We were not gratified with the +arrival of any of the natives whom we expected from a lower part of the +river. + +[1]The observation, already mentioned, I got on my return. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +JUNE, 1793. + +_Saturday, 22._--At six in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, +with two of the Indians, one of them in a small pointed canoe, made +after the fashion of the Esquimaux, and the other in our own. This +precaution was necessary in a two-fold point of view, as the small canoe +could be sent ahead to speak to any of the natives that might be seen +down the river, and, thus divided, would not be easy for them both to +make their escape. Mr. Mackay also embarked with the Indian, which +seemed to afford him great satisfaction, and he was thereby enabled to +keep us company with diminution of labour. + +Our courses were South-South-East a mile and a half, South-East half a +mile, South by East four miles and a half, South-East by South half a +mile, South by West half a mile, South-East by East one mile, +South-South-West a mile and a half, South by East one mile and a +quarter. The country, on the right, presented a very beautiful +appearance: it rose at first rather abruptly to the height of +twenty-five feet, when the precipice was succeeded by an inclined plain +to the foot of another steep; which was followed by another extent of +gently-rising ground: these objects, which were shaded with groves of +fir, presenting themselves alternately to a considerable distance. + +We now landed near a house, the roof of which alone appeared above +ground; but it was deserted by its inhabitants who had been alarmed at +our approach. We observed several men in the second steep, who +displayed the same postures and menacing actions as those which we have +so lately described. Our conductors went to them immediately on an +embassy of friendship, and, after a very vociferous discourse, one of +them was persuaded to come to us, but presented a very ferocious aspect: +the rest, who were seven in number, soon followed his example. They +held their bows and arrows in their hands, and appeared in their +garments, which were fastened round the neck, but left the right arm +free for action. A cord fastened a blanket or leather covering under +the right armpit, so that it hung upon the left shoulder, and might be +occasionally employed as a target, that would turn an arrow which was +nearly spent. As soon as they had recovered from their apprehensions, +ten women made their appearance, but without any children, whom, I +imagine, they had sent to a greater distance, to be out of reach of all +possible danger. I distributed a few presents among them, and left my +guides to explain to them the object of my journey, and the friendliness +of my designs, with which they had themselves been made acquainted; +their fears being at length removed, I gave them a specimen of the use +to which we applied our firearms: at the same time, I calmed their +astonishment, by the assurance, that, though we could at once destroy +those who did us injury, we could equally protect those who shewed us +kindness. Our stay here did not exceed half an hour, and we left these +people with favourable impressions of us. + +From this place we steered East by North half a mile, South by East +three quarters of a mile, and South by West a mile and a half, when we +landed again on seeing some of the natives on the high ground, whose +appearance was more wild and ferocious than any whom we had yet seen. +Indeed I was under some apprehension that our guides, who went to +conciliate them to us, would have fallen a prey to their savage fury. +At length, however, they were persuaded to entertain a more favourable +opinion of us, and they approached us one after another, to the number +of sixteen men, and several women, I shook hands with them all, and +desired my interpreters to explain that salutation as a token of +friend-ship. As this was not a place where we could remain with the +necessary convenience, I proposed to proceed further, in search of a +more commodious spot. They immediately invited us to pass the night at +their lodges, which were at no great distance, and promised, at the same +time, that they would, in the morning, send two young men to introduce +us to the next nation, who were very numerous, and ill-disposed towards +strangers. As we were pushing from the shore, we were very much +surprised at hearing a woman pronounce several words in the Knisteneaux +language. She proved to be a Rocky Mountain native, so that my +interpreters perfectly understood her. She informed us that her country +is at the forks of this river, and that she had been taken prisoner by +the Knisteneaux, who had carried her across the mountains. After having +passed the greatest part of the summer with them, she had contrived to +escape, before they had reached their own country, and had re-crossed +the mountains, when she expected to meet her own friends: but after +suffering all the hardships incident to such a journey, she had been +taken by a war-party of the people with whom she then was, who had +driven her relations from the river into the mountains. She had since +been detained by her present husband, of whom she had no cause to +complain; nevertheless she expressed a strong desire to return to her +own people. I presented her with several useful articles, and desired +her to come to me at the lodges, which she readily engaged to do. We +arrived thither before the Indians, and landed, as we had promised. It +was now near twelve at noon, but on attempting to take an altitude, I +found the angle too great for my sextant. + +The natives whom we had already seen, and several others, soon joined +us, with a greater number of women than I had yet seen; but I did not +observe the female prisoner among them. There were thirty-five of them, +and my remaining store of presents was not sufficient to enable me to be +very liberal to so many claimants. Among the men I found four of the +adjoining nation, and a Rocky-Mountain Indian, who had been with them +for some time. As he was understood by my interpreters, and was himself +well acquainted with the language of the strangers, I possessed the +means of obtaining every information respecting the country, which it +might be in their power to afford me. For this purpose I selected an +elderly man, from the four strangers, whose countenance had prepossessed +me in his favour. I stated to these people, as I had already done to +those from whom I had hitherto derived information, the objects of my +voyage, and the very great advantages which they would receive from my +successful termination of it. They expressed themselves very much +satisfied at my communication, and assured me that they would not +deceive me respecting the subject of my inquiry. An old man also, who +appeared to possess the character of a chief, declared his wish to see +me return to his land, and that his two young daughters should then be +at my disposal. I now proceeded to request the native, whom I had +particularly selected, to commence his information, by drawing a sketch +of the country upon a large piece of bark, and he immediately entered on +the work, frequently appealing to, and sometimes asking the advice of, +those around him. He described the river as running to the East of +South, receiving many rivers, and every six or eight leagues encumbered +with falls and rapids, some of which were very dangerous, and six of +them impracticable. The carrying-places he represented as of great +length, and passing over hills and mountains. He depicted the lands of +three other tribes, in succession, who spoke different languages. +Beyond them he knew nothing either of the river or country, only that it +was still a long way to the sea; and that, as he had heard, there was a +lake, before they reached the water, which the natives did not drink. +As far as his knowledge of the river extended, the country on either +side was level, in many places without wood and abounding in red deer, +and some of a small fallow kind. Few of the natives, he said, would +come to the banks for some time; but, that at a certain season they +would arrive there in great numbers, to fish. They now procured iron, +brass, copper, and trinkets, from the Westward; but formerly these +articles were obtained from the lower parts of the river, though in +small quantities. A knife was produced which had been brought from that +quarter. The blade was ten inches long, and an inch and a half broad, +but with a very blunted edge. The handle was of horn. We understood +that this instrument had been obtained from white men, long before they +had heard that any came to the Westward. One very old man observed, +that as long as he could remember, he was told of white people to the +Southward; and that he had heard, though he did not vouch for the truth +of the report, that one of them had made an attempt to come up the +river, and was destroyed. + +These people describe the distance across the country as very short to +the Western ocean; and, according to my own idea, it cannot be above +five or six degrees. If the assertion of Mr. Mears be correct, it +cannot be so far, as the inland sea which he mentions within Nootka, +must come as far East as 126. West longitude. They assured us that the +road was not difficult as they avoided the mountains, keeping along the +low lands between them, many parts of which are entirely free from wood. +According to their account, this way is so often travelled by them, that +their path is visible throughout the whole journey, which lies along +small lakes and rivers. It occupied them, they said, no more than six +nights, to go to where they meet the people who barter iron, brass, +copper, beads, &c., with them, for dressed leather, and beaver, bear, +lynx, fox, and marten skins. The iron is about eighteen inches of +two-inch bar. To this they give an edge at one end, and fix it to a +handle at right angles, which they employ as an axe. When the iron is +worn down, they fabricate it into points for their arrows and pikes. +Before they procured iron they employed bone and horn for those +purposes. The copper and brass they convert into collars, arm-buds, +bracelets, and other ornaments. They sometimes also point their arrows +with those metals. They had been informed by those whom they meet to +trade with, that the white people, from whom these articles are +obtained, were building houses at the distance of three days, or two +nights journey from the place where they met last fall. With this route +they all appeared to be well acquainted. + +I now requested that they would send for the female prisoner whom I saw +yesterday; but I received only vague and evasive answers. They probably +apprehended, that it was our design to take her from them. I was, +however, very much disappointed at being prevented from having an +interview with her, as she might have given me a correct account of the +country beyond the forks of the river, as well as of the pass, through +the mountains, from them. + +My people had listened with great attention to the relation which had +been given me, and it seemed to be their opinion, that it would be +absolute madness to attempt a passage through so many savage and +barbarous nations. My situation may indeed, be more easily conceived +than expressed: I had no more than thirty days provision remaining, +exclusive of such supplies as I might obtain from the natives, and the +toil of our hunters, which, however, was so precarious as to be matter +of little dependence: besides, our ammunition would soon be exhausted, +particularly our ball, of which we had not more than a hundred and +fifty, and about thirty pound weight of shot, which, indeed, might be +converted into bullets, though with great waste. + +The more I heard of the river, the more I was convinced it could not +empty itself into the ocean to the North of what is called the river of +the West, so that with its windings, the distance must be very great. +Such being the discouraging circumstances of my situation, which were +now heightened by the discontents of my people, I could not but be +alarmed at the idea of attempting to get to the discharge of such a +rapid river, especially when I reflected on the tardy progress of my +return up it, even if I should meet with no obstruction from the natives; +a circumstance not very probable, from the numbers of them which would +then be on the river, and whom I could have no opportunity of conciliating +in my passage down, for the reasons which have been already mentioned. At +all events, I must give up every expectation of returning this season to +Athabasca. Such were my reflections at this period; but instead of +continuing to indulge them, I determined to proceed with resolution, and +set future events at defiance. At the same time I suffered myself to +nourish the hope that I might be able to penetrate with more safety, and +in a shorter period, to the ocean by the inland western communication. + +To carry this project into execution I must have returned a considerable +distance up the river, which would necessarily be attended with very, +serious inconvenience, if I passed over every other; as in a voyage of +this kind, a retrograde motion could not fail to cool the ardour, +slacken the zeal and weaken the confidence of those, who have no greater +inducement to the undertaking, than to follow the conductor of it. Such +was the state of my mind at this period, and such the circumstances with +which it was distressed and distracted. + +To the people who had given me the foregoing information I presented +some beads, which they preferred to any other articles in my possession, +and I recompensed in the same manner two of them who communicated to me +the following vocabulary in the language of the Nagailer and Atnah +tribes. + + The Negailer or The Atnah, or + Carrier-Indians. Chin-Indians. + Eye, Nah, Thlouatin. + Hair, Thigah, Cahowdin. + Teeth, Gough, Chliough. + Nose, Nenzeh, Pisax. + Head, Thie, Scapacay. + Wood, Dekin, Shedzay. + Hand, Lah, Calietha. + Leg, Kin, Squacht. + Tongue, Thoula, Dewhasjiak. + Ear, Zach, Ithlinah. + Man, Dinay, Scuyloch. + Woman, Chiquoi, Smosledgenak. + Beaver, Zah, Schugh. + Elk, Yezey, Ookoy-Beh. + Dog, Sleing, Scacah. + Ground-hog, Thidnu, Squaisquais. + Iron, Thilisitch, Soucoumang. + Fire, Coun, Teuck. + Water, Tou, Shaweliquolih. + Stone, Zeh, Ishehoinah. + Bow, Nettuny, Isquoinah. + Arrow, Igah, Squailai. + Yes, Nesi, Amaig. + Plains, Thoughoud, Spilela. + Come here, Andezei, Thla-elyeh. + +[Transcriber's Note: 'Negailer', above, appears to be a transcription +error in this edition. Elsewhere it is rendered as 'Nagailer'] + +The Atnah language has no affinity to any with which I am acquainted; +but the Nagailer differs very little from that spoken by the Beaver +Indians, and is almost the same as that of the Chepewyans. + +We had a thunder-storm with heavy rain; and in the evening when it had +subsided, the Indians amused us with singing and dancing, in which they +were joined by the young women. Four men now arrived whom we had not +yet seen; they had left their families at some distance in the country, +and expressed a desire that we should visit them there. + + +_Sunday, 23._--After a restless night, I called the Indians together, +from whom I yesterday received the intelligence which has been already +mentioned, in the hope that I might obtain some additional information. +From their former account they did not make the least deviation; but +they informed me further, that where they left this river, a small one +from the Westward falls into it, which was navigable for their canoes +during four days, and from thence they slept but two nights, to get to +the people with whom they trade, and who have wooden canoes much larger +than ours, in which they go down a river to the sea. They continued to +inform me, that if I went that way we must leave our own canoe behind +us; but they thought it probable that those people would furnish us with +another. From thence they stated the distance to be only one day's +voyage with the current to the lake whose water is nauseous, and where +they had heard that great canoes came two winters ago, and that the +people belonging to them, brought great quantities of goods and built +houses. + +At the commencement of this conversation, I was very much surprised by +the following question from one of the Indians: "What," demanded he, +"can be the reason that you are so particular and anxious in your +inquiries of us respecting a knowledge of this country: do not you white +men know every thing in the world?" This interrogatory was so very +unexpected, that it occasioned some hesitation before I could answer it. +At length, however, I replied, that we certainly were acquainted with +the principal circumstances of every part of the world; that I knew +where the sea is, and where I myself then was, but that I did not +exactly understand what obstacles might interrupt me in getting to it; +with which, he and his relations must be well acquainted, as they had so +frequently surmounted them. Thus I fortunately preserved the impression +in their minds, of the superiority of white people over themselves. + +It was now, however, absolutely necessary that I should come to a final +determination which route to take; and no long interval of reflection +was employed, before I preferred to go over land: the comparative +shortness and security of such a journey, were alone sufficient to +determine me. I accordingly proposed to two of the Indians to accompany +me, and one of them readily assented to my proposition. + +I now called those of my people about me, who had not been present at my +consultation with the natives; and after passing a warm eulogium on +their fortitude, patience, and perseverance, I stated the difficulties +that threatened our continuing to navigate the river, the length of time +it would require, and the scanty provision we had for such a voyage: I +then proceeded for the foregoing reasons to propose a shorter route, by +trying the overland road to the sea. At the same time, as I knew from +experience, the difficulty of retaining guides, and as many +circumstances might occur to prevent our progress in that direction, I +declared my resolution not to attempt it, unless they would engage if we +could not after all proceed over land, to return with me, and continue +our voyage to the discharge of the waters, whatever the distance might +be. At all events, I declared, in the most solemn manner, that I would +not abandon my design of reaching the sea, if I made the attempt alone, +and that I did not despair of returning in safety to my friends. + +This proposition met with the most zealous return, and they unanimously +assured me, that they were as willing now as they had ever been, to +abide by my resolutions, whatever they might be, and to follow me +wherever I should go. I therefore requested them to prepare for an +immediate departure, and at the same time gave notice to the man who had +engaged to be our guide, to be in readiness to accompany us. When our +determination to return up the river was made known, several of the +natives took a very abrupt departure; but to those who remained, I gave +a few useful articles, explaining to them at the same time, the +advantages that would result to them, if their relations conducted me to +the sea, along such a road as they had described. I had already given a +moose skin to some of the women for the purpose of making shoes, which +were now brought us; they were well sewed but ill-shaped, and a few +beads were considered as a sufficient remuneration for the skill +employed on them, Mr. Mackay, by my desire, engraved my name, and the +date of the year on a tree. + +When we were ready to depart, our guide proposed, for the sake of +expedition, to go over land to his lodge, that he might get there before +us, to make some necessary preparation for his journey. I did not +altogether relish his design, but was obliged to consent: I thought it +prudent, however, to send Mr. Mackay, and the two Indians along with +him. Our place of rendezvous, was the subterraneous house which we +passed yesterday. + +At ten in the morning we embarked, and went up the current much faster +than I expected with such a crazy vessel as that which carried us. We +met our people at the house as had been appointed; but the Indian still +continued to prefer going on by land, and it would have been needless +for me to oppose him. He proceeded, therefore, with his former +companions, whom I desired to keep him in good humour by every +reasonable gratification. They were also furnished with a few articles +that might be of use if they should meet strangers. + +In a short time after we had left the house, I saw a wooden canoe coming +down the river, with three natives in it, who, as soon as they perceived +us, made for the shore, and hurried into the woods. On passing their +vessel, we discovered it to be one of those which we had seen at the +lodges. A severe gust of wind, with rain, came from the +South-South-East. This we found to be a very prevalent wind in these +parts. We soon passed another wooden canoe drawn stern foremost on the +shore; a circumstance which we had not hitherto observed. The men +worked very hard, and though I imagined we went a-head very fast, we +could not reach the lodges, but landed for the night at nine, close to +the encampment of two families of the natives whom we had formerly seen +at the lodges. I immediately went and sat down with them, when they +gave some roasted fish; two of my men who followed me were gratified +also with some of their provisions. The youngest of the two natives now +quitted the shed, and did not return during the time I remained there. +I endeavoured to explain to the other by signs, the cause of my sudden +return, which he appeared to understand. In the mean time my tent was +pitched, and on my going to it, I was rather surprised that he did not +follow me, as he had been constantly with me during the day and night I +had passed with his party on going down. We, however, went to rest in a +state of perfect security; nor had we the least apprehension for the +safety of our people who were gone by land. + +We were in our canoe by four this morning, and passed by the Indian hut, +which appeared in a state of perfect tranquillity. We soon came in +sight of the point where we first saw the natives, and at eight were +much surprised and disappointed at seeing Mr. Mackay, and our two +Indians coming alone from the ruins of a house that had been partly +carried away by the ice and water, at a short distance below the place +where we had appointed to meet. Nor was our surprise and apprehension +diminished by the alarm which was painted in their countenances. When +we had landed, they informed me that they had taken refuge in that +place, with the determination to sell their lives, which they considered +in the most imminent danger, as dear as possible. In a very short time +after they had left us, they met a party of the Indians, whom we had +known at this place, and were probably those whom we had seen to land +from their canoe. They appeared to be in a state of extreme rage, and +had their bows bent, with their arrows across them. The guide stopped +to ask them some questions, which my people did not understand, and then +set off with his utmost speed. Mr. Mackay, however, did not leave him +till they were both exhausted with running. When the young man came up, +he then said, that some treacherous design was meditated against them, +as he was induced to believe from the declaration of the natives, who +told him that they were going to do mischief, but refused to name the +enemy. The guide then conducted them through very bad ways, as fast as +they could run; and when he was desired to slacken his pace, he answered +that they might follow him in any manner they pleased, but that he was +impatient to get to his family, in order to prepare shoes, and other +necessaries, for his journey. They did not, however, think it prudent +to quit him, and he would not stop till ten at night. On passing a +track that was but lately made, they began to be seriously alarmed, and +on inquiring of the guide where they were, he pretended not to +understand them. They then all laid down, exhausted with fatigue, and +without any kind of covering: they were cold, wet, and hungry, but dared +not light a fire, from the apprehension of an enemy. This comfortless +spot they left at the dawn of the day, and, on their arrival at the +lodges, found them deserted; the property of the Indians being scattered +about, as if abandoned for ever. The guide then made two or three trips +into the woods, calling aloud, and bellowing like a madman. At length +he set off in the same direction as they came, and had not since +appeared. To heighten their misery, as they did not find us at the +place appointed, they concluded that we were all destroyed, and had +already formed their plan to take to the woods, and cross in as direct a +line as they could proceed, to the waters of the Peace River, a scheme +which could only be suggested by despair. They intended to have waited +for us till noon, and if we did not appear by that time, to have entered +without further delay on their desperate expedition. + +This alarm among the natives was a very unexpected as well as perilous +event, and my powers of conjecture were exhausted in searching for the +cause of it. A general panic seized all around me, and any further +prosecution of the voyage was now considered by them as altogether +hopeless and impracticable. But without paying the least attention to +their opinions or surmises, I ordered them to take every thing out of +the canoe, except six packages: when that was done, I left four men to +take care of the lading, and returned with the others to our camp of +last night, where I hoped to find the two men, with their families, whom +we had seen there, and to be able to bring them to lodge with us, when I +should wait the issue of this mysterious business. This project, +however, was disappointed, for these people had quitted their sheds in +the silence of the night, and had not taken a single article of their +little property with them. + +These perplexing circumstances made a deep impression on my mind, not as +to our immediate safety, for I entertained not the least apprehension +of the Indians I had hitherto seen, even if their whole force should +have been combined to attack us, but these untoward events seemed to +threaten the prosecution of my journey; and I could not reflect on +the possibility of such a disappointment but with sensations little +short of agony. Whatever might have been the wavering disposition of +the people on former occasions, they were now decided in their opinions +as to the necessity of returning without delay; and when we came back +to them, their cry was--"Let us re-embark, and be gone." This, however, +was not my design, and in a more peremptory tone than I usually employed, +they were ordered to unload the canoe, and take her out of the water. +On examining our property, several articles appeared to be missing, +which the Indians must have purloined; and among them were an axe, +two knives, and the young men's bag of medicines. We now took a position +that was the best calculated for defence, got our arms in complete order, +filled each man's flask of powder, and distributed an hundred bullets, +which were all that remained, while some were employed in melting down +shot to make more. The weather was so cloudy, that I had not an +opportunity of taking an observation. + +While we were employed in making these preparations, we saw an Indian in +a canoe come down the river, and land at the huts, which he began to +examine. On perceiving us he stood still, as if in a state of suspense, +when I instantly dispatched one of my Indians towards him, but no +persuasions could induce him to have confidence in us; he even +threatened that he would hasten to join his friends, who would come and +kill us. At the conclusion of this menace he disappeared. On the +return of my young man, with this account of the interview, I pretended +to discredit the whole, and attributed it to his own apprehensions and +alarms. This, however, he denied, and asked with a look and tone of +resentment, whether he had ever told me a lie? Though he was but a +young man, he said, he had been on war excursions before he came with +me, and that he should no longer consider me as a wise man, which he had +hitherto done. + +To add to our distresses we had not an ounce of gum for the reparation +of the canoe, and not one of the men had sufficient courage to venture +into the woods to collect it. In this perplexing situation I +entertained the hope that in the course of the night some of the natives +would return, to take away a part at least of the things which they had +left behind them, as they had gone away without the covering necessary +to defend them from the weather and the flies. I therefore ordered the +canoe to be loaded, and dropped to an old house, one side of which, with +its roof, had been carried away by the water; but the three remaining +angles were sufficient to shelter us from the woods. I then ordered two +strong piquets to be driven into the ground, to which the canoe was +fastened, so that if we were hard pressed we had only to step on board +and push off. We were under the necessity of making a smoke to keep off +the swarms of flies, which would have otherwise tormented us; but we did +not venture to excite a blaze, as it would have been a mark for the +arrows of the enemy. Mr. Mackay and myself, with three men kept +alternate watch, and allowed the Indians to do as they fancied. I took +the first watch, and the others laid down in their clothes by us. I +also placed a centinel at a small distance, who was relieved every hour. +The weather was cloudy, with showers of rain. + + +_Tuesday, 25._--At one I called up the other watch, and laid down to a +small portion of broken rest. At five I arose, and as the situation +which we left yesterday was preferable to that which we then occupied, I +determined to return to it. On our arrival Mr. Mackay informed me that +the men had expressed their dissatisfaction to him in a very unreserved +manner, and had in very strong terms declared their resolution to follow +me no further in my proposed enterprise. I did not appear, however, to +have received such communications from him, and continued to employ my +whole thoughts in contriving means to bring about a reconciliation with +the natives, which alone would enable me to procure guides, without +whose assistance it would be impossible for me to proceed, when my +darling project would end in disappointment. + +At twelve we saw a man coming with the stream upon a raft, and he must +have discovered us before we perceived him, as he was working very hard +to get to the opposite shore, where he soon landed, and instantly fled +into the woods. I now had a meridional altitude, which gave +60. 23. natural horizon (the angle being more than the sextant could +measure with the artificial horizon) one mile and a half distant; and +the eye five feet above the level of the water, gave 62. 47. 51. North +latitude. + +While I was thus employed, the men loaded the canoe, without having +received any orders from me, and as this was the first time they had +ventured to act in such a decided manner, I naturally concluded that +they had preconcerted a plan for their return. I thought it prudent, +however, to take no notice of this transaction, and to wait the issue of +future circumstances. At this moment our Indians perceived a person in +the edge of the woods above us, and they were immediately dispatched to +discover who it was. After a short absence they returned with a young +woman whom we had seen before: her language was not clearly comprehended +by us, so that we could not learn from her, at least with any degree of +certainty, the cause of this unfortunate alarm that had taken place +among the natives. She told us that her errand was to fetch some things +which she had left behind her; and one of the dogs whom we found here, +appeared to acknowledge her as his mistress. We treated her with great +kindness, gave her something to eat, and added a present of such +articles as we thought might please her. On her expressing a wish to +leave us, we readily consented to her departure, and indulged the hope +that her reception would induce the natives to return in peace, and give +us an opportunity to convince them, that we had no hostile designs +whatever against them. On leaving us, she went up the river, without +taking a single article of her own, and the dog followed. The wind was +changeable throughout the day, and there were several showers in the +course of it. + +Though a very apparent anxiety prevailed among the people for their +departure, I appeared to be wholly inattentive to it, and at eight in +the evening I ordered four men to step into the canoe, which had been +loaded for several hours, and drop down to our guard-house, and my +command was immediately obeyed: the rest of us proceeded there by land. +When I was yet at a considerable distance from the house, and thought it +impossible for an arrow to reach it, having a bow and quiver in my hand, +I very imprudently let fly an arrow, when, to my astonishment and +infinite alarm, I heard it strike a log of the house. The men who had +just landed, imagined that they were attacked by an enemy from the +woods. Their confusion was in proportion to their imaginary danger, and +on my arrival I found that the arrow had passed within a foot of one of +the men; though it had no point, the weapon, incredible as it may +appear, had entered an hard, dry log of wood upwards of an inch. But +this was not all: for the men readily availed themselves of this +circumstance, to remark upon the danger of remaining in the power of a +people possessed of such means of destruction. Mr. Mackay having the +first watch, I laid myself down in my cloak. + + +_Wednesday, 26._--At midnight a rustling noise was heard in the woods +which created a general alarm, and I was awakened to be informed of the +circumstance, but heard nothing. At one I took my turn of the watch, +and our dog continued unceasingly to run backwards and forwards along +the skirts of the wood in a state of restless vigilance. At two in the +morning the centinel informed me, that he saw something like an human +figure creeping along on all-fours about fifty paces above us. After +some time had passed in our search, I at length discovered that his +information was true, and it appeared to me that a bear had occasioned +the alarm; but when day appeared, it proved to be an old, grey-haired, +blind man, who had been compelled to leave his hiding-place by extreme +hunger, being too infirm to join in the flight of the natives to whom he +belonged. When I put my hand on this object of decaying nature, his +alarm was so great, that I expected it would have thrown him into +convulsions. I immediately led him to our fire which had been just +lighted, and gave him something to eat, which he much wanted, as he had +not tasted food for two days. When his hunger was satisfied, and he had +got warm and composed, I requested him to acquaint me with the cause of +that alarm which had taken place respecting us among his relations and +friends, whose regard we appeared to have conciliated but a few days +past. He replied, that very soon after we had left them, some natives +arrived from above, who informed them that we were enemies; and our +unexpected return, in direct contradiction to our own declarations, +confirmed them in that opinion. They were now, he said, so scattered, +that a considerable time would elapse, before they could meet again. We +gave him the real history of our return, as well as of the desertion of +our guide, and, at the same time, stated the impossibility of our +proceeding, unless we procured a native to conduct us. He replied, that +if he had not lost his sight, he would with the greatest readiness have +accompanied us on our journey. He also confirmed the accounts which we +had received of the country, and the route to the Westward. I did not +neglect to employ every argument in my power, that he might be persuaded +of our friendly dispositions to the inhabitants wheresoever we might +meet them. + +At sun-rise we perceived a canoe with one man in it on the opposite side +of the river, and at our request, the blind man called to him to come to +us, but he returned no answer, and continued his course as fast as he +could paddle down the current. He was considered as a spy by my men, +and I was confirmed in that opinion, when I saw a wooden canoe drifting +with the stream close in to the other shore, where it was more than +probable that some of the natives might be concealed. It might, +therefore, have been an useless enterprise, or perhaps fatal to the +future success of our undertaking, if we had pursued these people, as +they might, through fear have employed their arms against us, and +provoked us to retaliate. + +The old man informed me, that some of the natives whom I had seen here +were gone up the river, and those whom I saw below had left their late +station to gather a root in the plains, which, when dried, forms a +considerable article in their winter stock of provisions. He had a +woman, he said, with him, who used to see us walking along the small +adjoining river, but when he called her he received no answer, so that +she had probably fled to join her people. He informed me, also, that he +expected a considerable number of his tribe to come on the upper part of +the river to catch fish for their present support, and to cure them for +their winter store; among whom he had a son and two brothers. + +In consequence of these communications, I deemed it altogether +unnecessary to lose any more time at this place, and I informed the old +man that he must accompany me for the purpose of introducing us to his +friends and relations, and that if we met with his son or brothers, I +depended upon him to persuade them, or some of their party, to attend us +as guides in our meditated expedition. He expressed his wishes to be +excused from this service, and in other circumstances we should not have +insisted on it, but, situated as we were, we could not yield to his +request. + +At seven in the morning we left this place, which I named Deserter's +River or Creek. Our blind guide was, however, so averse to continuing +with us, that I was under the very disagreeable necessity of ordering +the men to carry him into the canoe; and this was the first act during +my voyage, that had the semblance of violent dealing. He continued to +speak in a very loud tone, while he remained, according to his +conjecture, near enough to the camp to be heard, but in a language that +our interpreters did not understand. On asking him what he said, and +why he did not speak in a language known to us, he replied, that the +woman understood him better in that which he spoke, and he requested +her, if she heard him, to come for him to the carrying-place, where he +expected we should leave him. + +At length our canoe was become so leaky, that it was absolutely unfit +for service; and it was the unremitting employment of one person to keep +her clear of water: we, therefore, inquired of the old man where we +could conveniently obtain the articles necessary to build a new one; and +we understood from him that, at some distance up the river, we should +find plenty of bark and cedar. + +At ten, being at the foot of a rapid, we saw a small canoe coming down +with two men in it. We thought it would be impossible for them to +escape, and therefore struck off from the shore with a design to +intercept them, directing the old man at the same time to address them; +but they no sooner perceived us, than they steered into the strength of +the current, where I thought that they must inevitably perish; but their +attention appeared to be engrossed by the situation of their canoe, and +they escaped without making us the least reply. + +About three in the afternoon we perceived a lodge at the entrance of a +considerable river on the right, as well as the tracks of people in the +mud at the mouth of a small river on the left. As they appeared to be +fresh, we landed, and endeavoured to trace them, but without success. +We then crossed over to the lodge, which was deserted, but all the usual +furniture of such buildings remained untouched. + +Throughout the whole of this day the men had been in a state of extreme +ill-humour, and as they did not choose openly to vent it upon me, they +disputed and quarrelled among themselves. About sun-set the canoe +struck upon the stump of a tree, which broke a large hole in her bottom; +a circumstance that gave them an opportunity to let loose their +discontents without reserve. I left them as soon as we had landed, and +ascended an elevated bank, in a state of mind which I scarce wish to +recollect, and shall not attempt to describe. At this place there was a +subterraneous house, where I determined to pass the night. The water +had risen since we had passed down, and it was with the utmost exertion +that we came up several points in the course of the day. + +We embarked at half past four, with very favourable weather, and at +eight we landed, where there was an appearance of our being able to +procure bark; we, however, obtained but a small quantity. At twelve we +went on shore again, and collected as much as was necessary for our +purpose. It now remained for us to fix on a proper place for building +another canoe, as it was impossible to proceed with our old one, which +was become an absolute wreck. At five in the afternoon we came to a +spot well adapted to the business in which we were about to engage. It +was on a small island not much encumbered with wood, though there was +plenty of the spruce kind on the opposite land, which was only divided +from us by a small channel. We now landed, but before the canoe was +unloaded, and the tent pitched, a violent thunder-storm came on, +accompanied with rain, which did not subside till the night had closed +in upon us. Two of our men who had been in the woods for axe-handles, +saw a deer, and one of them shot at it, but unluckily missed his aim. A +net was also prepared and set in the eddy at the end of the island. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +JUNE, 1793. + +_Friday, 28._--At a very early hour of the morning every man was +employed in making preparations for building another canoe, and +different parties went in search of wood, watape, and gum. At two in +the afternoon they all returned successful, except the collectors of +gum, and of that article it was feared we should not obtain here a +sufficient supply for our immediate wants. After a necessary portion of +time allotted for refreshment, each began his respective work. I had an +altitude at noon, which made us in 53. 2. 32. North latitude. + + +_Saturday, 29._--The weather continued to be fine. At five o'clock we +renewed our labour, and the canoe was got in a state of considerable +forwardness. The conductor of the work, though a good man, was +remarkable for the tardiness of his operations, whatever they might be, +and more disposed to eat than to be active; I therefore took this +opportunity of unfolding my sentiments to him, and thereby discovering +to all around me the real state of my mind, and the resolutions I had +formed for my future conduct. After reproaching him for his general +inactivity, but particularly on the present occasion, when our time was +so precious, I mentioned the apparent want of economy, both of himself +and his companions, in the article of provisions. I informed him that I +was not altogether a stranger to their late conversations, from whence I +drew the conclusion that they wished to put an end to the voyage. If +that were so, I expressed my wish that they would be explicit, and tell +me at once of their determination to follow me no longer. I concluded, +however, by assuring him, that whatever plan they had meditated to +pursue, it was my fixed and unalterable determination to proceed, in +spite of every difficulty that might oppose, or danger that should +threaten me. The man was very much mortified at my addressing this +remonstrance particularly to him; and replied that he did not deserve my +displeasure more than the rest of them. My object being answered, the +conversation dropped, and the work went on. + +About two in the afternoon one of the men perceived a canoe with two +natives in it, coming along the inside of the island, but the water +being shallow, it turned back, and we imagined that on perceiving us +they had taken the alarm; but we were agreeably surprised on seeing them +come up the outside of the island, when we recognised our guide, and one +of the natives whom we had already seen; The former began immediately to +apologize for his conduct, and assured me that since he had left me, his +whole time had been employed in searching after his family, who had been +seized with the general panic, that had been occasioned by the false +reports of the people who had first fled from us. He said it was +generally apprehended by the natives, that we had been unfriendly to +their relations above, who were expected upon the river in great numbers +at this time: and that many of the Atnah or Chin nation, had come up the +river to where we had been, in the hope of seeing us, and were very much +displeased with him and his friends for having neglected to give them an +early notice of our arrival there. He added, that the two men whom we +had seen yesterday, or the day before, were just returned from their +rendezvous, with the natives of the sea coast, and had brought a message +from his brother-in-law, that he had a new axe for him, and not to +forget to bring a moose-skin dressed in exchange, which he actually had +in his canoe. He expected to meet him, he said, at the other end of the +carrying-place. + +This was as pleasing intelligence as we had reason to expect, and it is +almost superfluous to observe that we stood in great need of it. I had +a meridian altitude, which gave 53. 3. 7. North latitude. I also took +time in the fore and afternoon, that gave a mean of 1. 37. 42. +Achrometer slow apparent time, which, with an observed immersion of +Jupiter's first satellite, made our longitude 122. 48. West of +Greenwich. + +The blind old man gave a very favourable account of us to his friends, +and they all three were very merry together during the whole of the +afternoon. That our guide, however, might not escape from us during the +night, I determined to set a watch upon him. + + +_Sunday, 30._--Our strangers conducted themselves with great good +humour throughout the day. According to their information, we should +find their friends above and below the carrying-place. They mentioned, +also, that some of them were not of their tribe, but are allied to the +people of the sea coast, who trade with the white men. I had a meridian +altitude, that gave 53. 3. 17. North latitude. + +JULY. _Monday, 1._--Last night I had the first watch, when one of my +Indians proposed to sit up with me, as he understood, from the old man's +conversation, that he intended, in the course of the night, to make his +escape. Accordingly, at eleven I extinguished my light, and sat quietly +in my tent, from whence I could observe the motions of the natives. +About twelve, though the night was rather dark, I observed the old man +creeping on his hands and knees towards the water-side. We accordingly +followed him very quietly to the canoe, and he would have gone away with +it, if he had not been interrupted in his design. On upbraiding him for +his treacherous conduct, when he had been treated with so much kindness +by us, he denied the intention of which we accused him, and declared +that his sole object was to assuage his thirst. At length, however, he +acknowledged the truth, and when we brought him to the fire, his +friends, who now awoke, on being informed of what had passed, reprobated +his conduct, and asked him how he could expect that the white people +would return to this country, if they experienced such ungrateful +treatment. The guide said, for his part, he was not a woman, and would +never run away through fear. But notwithstanding this courageous +declaration, at once I awakened Mr. Mackay, related to him what had +passed, and requested him not to indulge himself in sleep, till I should +rise. It was seven before I awoke, and on quitting my tent I was +surprised at not seeing the guide and his companion, and my +apprehensions were increased when I observed that the canoe was removed +from its late situation. To my inquiries after them, some of the men +very composedly answered that they were gone up the river, and had left +the old man behind them. Mr. Mackay also told me, that while he was +busily employed on the canoe, they had got to the point before he had +observed their departure. The interpreter now informed me that at the +dawn of day the guide had expressed his design, as soon as the sun was +up, to go and wait for us, where he might find his friends. I hoped +this might be true; but that my people should suffer them to depart +without giving me notice, was a circumstance that awakened very painful +reflections in my breast. The weather was clear in the forenoon. My +observation this day gave 53. 8. 82. North latitude. + +At five in the afternoon our vessel was completed, and ready for +service. She proved a stronger and better boat than the old one, though +had it not been for the gum obtained from the latter, it would have been +a matter of great difficulty to have procured a sufficiency of that +article to have prevented her from leaking. The remainder of the day +was employed by the people in cleaning and refreshing themselves, as +they had enjoyed no relaxation from their labour since we landed on this +spot. + +The old man having manifested for various and probably very fallacious +reasons, a very great aversion to accompany us any further, it did not +appear that there was any necessity to force his inclination. We now +put our arms in order, which was soon accomplished, as they were at all +times a general object of attention. + + +_Tuesday, 2._--It rained throughout the night, but at half past three +we were ready to embark, when I offered to conduct the old man where he +had supposed we should meet his friends, but he declined the +proposition. I therefore directed a few pounds of pemmican to be left +with him, for his immediate support, and took leave of him and the +place, which I named Canoe Island. During our stay there we had been +most cruelly tormented by flies, particularly the sand-fly, which I am +disposed to consider as the most tormenting insect of its size in +nature. I was also compelled to put the people upon short allowance, +and confine them to two meals a day, a regulation peculiarly offensive +to a Canadian voyager. One of these meals was composed of the dried +rows of fish, pounded, and boiled in water, thickened with a small +quantity of flour, and fattened with a bit of grian. These articles, +being brought to the consistency of an hasty pudding, produced a +substantial and not unpleasant dish. The natives are very careful of +the rows of fish, which they dry, and preserve in baskets made of bark. +Those we used were found in the huts of the first people who fled from +us. During our abode in Canoe Island, the water sunk three +perpendicular feet. I now gave the men a dram each, which could not but +be considered, at this time, as a very comfortable treat. They were, +indeed, in high spirits, when they perceived the superior excellence of +the new vessel, and reflected that it was the work of their own hands. + +[Transcriber's Note: The word 'grian' above is printed thus in this, +and other, editions.] + +At eleven we arrived at the rapids, and the foreman, who had not +forgotten the fright he suffered on coming down it, proposed that the +canoe and lading should be carried over the mountain. I threatened him +with taking the office of foreman on myself, and suggested the evident +change there was in the appearance of the water since we passed it, +which upon examination had sunk four feet and an half. As the water did +not seem so strong on the West side, I determined to cross over, having +first put Mr. Mackay, and our two hunters, on shore, to try the woods +for game. We accordingly traversed, and got up close along the rocks, +to a considerable distance, with the paddles, when we could proceed no +further without assistance from the line; and to draw it across a +perpendicular rock, for the distance of fifty fathoms, appeared to be an +insurmountable obstacle. The general opinion was to return, and carry +on the other side; I desired, however, two of the men to take the line, +which was seventy fathoms in length, with a small roll of bark, and +endeavour to climb up the rocks, from whence they were to descend on the +other side of that which opposed our progress; they were then to fasten +the end of the line to the roll of bark, which the current would bring +to us; this being effected, they would be able to draw us up. This was +an enterprise of difficulty and danger, but it was crowned with success; +though to get to the water's edge above, the men were obliged to let +themselves down with the line, run round a tree, from the summit of the +rock. By a repetition of the same operation, we at length cleared the +rapid, with the additional trouble of carrying the canoe, and unloading +at two cascades. We were not more than two hours getting up this +difficult part of the river, including the time employed in repairing an +hole which had been broken in the canoe, by the negligence of the +steersman. + +Here we expected to meet with the natives, but there was not the least +appearance of them, except that the guide, his companion, and two +others, had apparently passed the carrying-place. We saw several fish +leap out of the water, which appeared to be of the salmon kind. The old +man, indeed, had informed us that this was the season when the large +fish begin to come up the river. Our hunters returned, but had not seen +the track of any animal. We now continued our journey; the current was +not strong, but we met with frequent impediments from the fallen trees, +which lay along the banks. We landed at eight in the evening; and +suffered indescribable inconveniences from the flies. + + +_Wednesday, 3._--It had rained hard in the night, and there was some +small rain in the morning. At four we entered our canoe, and at ten we +came to a small river, which answered to the description of that whose +course the natives said, they follow in their journies towards the sea +coast; we therefore put into it, and endeavoured to discover if our +guide had landed here; but there were no traces of him or of any others. +My former perplexities were now renewed. If I passed this river, it was +probable that I might miss the natives; and I had reason to suspect that +my men would not consent to return thither. As for attempting the +woods, without a guide, to introduce us to the first inhabitants, such a +determination would be little short of absolute madness. At length, +after much painful reflection, I resolved to come at once to a full +explanation with my people, and I experienced a considerable relief from +this resolution. Accordingly, after repeating the promise they had so +lately made me, on our putting back up the river, I represented to them +that this appeared to me to be the spot from which the natives took +their departure for the sea coast, and added, withal, that I was +determined to try it: for though our guide had left us, it was possible +that, while we were making the necessary preparations, he or some others +might appear, to relieve us from our present difficulties. I now found, +to my great satisfaction, that they had not come to any fixed +determination among themselves, as some of them immediately assented to +undertake the woods with me. Others, however, suggested that it might +be better to proceed a few leagues further up the river, in expectation +of finding our guide, or procuring another, and that after all we might +return hither. This plan I very readily agreed to adopt, but before I +left this place, to which I gave the name of the West-Road River, I sent +some of the men into the woods, in different directions, and went some +distance up the river myself, which I found to be navigable only for +small canoes. Two of the men found a good beaten path, leading up a +hill just behind us, which I imagined to be the great road. + +At four in the afternoon we left this place, proceeding up the river; +and had not been upon the water more than three quarters of an hour, +when we saw two canoes coming with the stream. No sooner did the people +in them perceive us than they landed, and we went on shore at the same +place with them. They proved to be our guide, and six of his relations. +He was covered with a painted beaver robe, so that we scarcely knew him +in his fine habiliment. He instantly desired us to acknowledge that he +had not disappointed us, and declared, at the same time, that it was his +constant intention to keep his word. I accordingly gave him a jacket, a +pair of trowsers, and a handkerchief, as a reward for his honourable +conduct. The strangers examined us with the most minute attention, and +two of them, as I was now informed, belonged to the people whom we first +saw, and who fled with so much alarm from us. They told me, also, that +they were so terrified on that occasion, as not to approach their huts +for two days; and that when they ventured thither, they found the +greater part of their property destroyed, by the fire running in the +ground. According to their account, they were of a different tribe, +though I found no difference in their language from that of the Nagailas +or Carriers. They are called Nascud Denee. Their lodges were at some +distance, on a small lake, where they take fish, and if our guide had +not gone for them there, we should not have seen a human being on the +river. They informed me that the road by their habitation is the +shortest, and they proposed that we should take it. + + +_Thursday, 4._--At an early hour this morning, and at the suggestion +of our guide, we proceeded to the landing-place that leads to the +strangers' lodges. Our great difficulty here was to procure a temporary +separation from our company, in order to hide some articles we could not +carry with us, and which it would have been imprudent to leave in the +power of the natives. Accordingly Mr. Mackay, and one of our Indians +embarked with them, and soon run out of our sight. At our first +hiding-place we left a bag of pemmican, weighing ninety pounds, two bags +of wild rice, and a gallon keg of gunpowder. Previous to our putting +these articles in the ground, we rolled them up in oilcloth, and dressed +leather. In the second hiding-place, and guarded with the same rollers, +we hid two bags of Indian corn, or maize, and a bale of different +articles of merchandise. When we had completed this important object, +we proceeded till half past eight, when we landed at the entrance of a +small rivulet, where our friends were waiting for us. + +Here it was necessary that we should leave our canoe, and whatever we +could not carry on our backs. In the first place, therefore, we +prepared a stage, on which the canoe was placed bottom upwards, and +shaded by a covering of small trees and branches, to keep her from the +sun. We then built an oblong hollow square, ten feet by five, of green +logs, wherein we placed every article it was necessary for us to leave +here, and covered the whole with large pieces of timber. + +While we were eagerly employed in this necessary business, our guide and +his companions were so impatient to be gone, that we could not persuade +the former to wait till we were prepared for our departure, and we had +some difficulty in persuading another of the natives to remain, who had +undertook to conduct us where the guide had promised to wait our +arrival. + +At noon we were in a state of preparation to enter the woods, an +undertaking of which I shall not here give any preliminary opinion, but +leave those who read it to judge for themselves. + +We carried on our backs four bags and a half of pemmican, weighing from +eighty-five to ninety pounds each; a case with my instruments, a parcel +of goods for presents, weighing ninety pounds, and a parcel containing +ammunition of the same weight. Each of the Canadians had a burden of +about ninety pounds, with a gun, and some ammunition. The Indians had +about forty-five pounds weight of pemmican to carry, besides their gun, +&c., with which they were very much dissatisfied, and if they had dared +would have instantly left us. They had hitherto been very much +indulged, but the moment was now arrived, when indulgence was no longer +practicable. My own load, and that of Mr. Mackay, consisted of +twenty-two pounds of pemmican, some rice, a little sugar, &c., amounting +in the whole to about seventy pounds each, besides our arms and +ammunition. I had also the tube of my telescope swung across my +shoulder, which was a troublesome addition to my burthen. It was +determined that we should content ourselves with two meals a day, which +were regulated without difficulty, as our provisions did not require the +ceremony of cooking. + +In this state of equipment we began our journey, as I have already +mentioned, about twelve at noon, the commencement of which was a steep +ascent of about a mile; it lay along a well-beaten path, but the country +through which it led was rugged and ridgy, and full of wood. When we +were in a state of extreme heat, from the toil of our journey, the rain +came on, and continued till evening, and even when it ceased, the +underwood continued its drippings upon us. + +About half past six we arrived at an Indian camp of three fires, where +we found our guide, and on his recommendation we determined to remain +there for the night. The computed distance of this day's journey was +about twelve geographical miles; the course about West. + +At sun-set, an elderly man and three other natives joined us from the +Westward. The former bore a lance, which very much resembled a +serjeant's halberd. He had lately received it, by way of barter, from +the natives of the Sea-Coast, who procured it from the white men. We +should meet, he said, with many of his countrymen, who had just returned +from thence. According to his report, it did not require more than six +days' journey, for people who are not heavily laden, to reach the +country of those with whom they bartered their skins for iron, &c., and +from thence it is not quite two days' march to the sea. They proposed +to send two young men on before us, to notify to the different tribes +that we were approaching, that they might not be surprised at our +appearance, and be disposed to afford us a friendly reception. This was +a measure which I could not but approve, and endeavoured by some small +presents to prepossess our couriers in our favour. + +These people live but poorly at this season, and I could procure no +provision from them, but a few small, dried fish, as I think, of the +carp kind. They had several European articles; and one of them had a +strip of fur, which appeared to me to be of the sea otter. He obtained +it from the natives of the coast, and exchanged it with me for some +beads and a brass cross. + +We retired to rest in as much security as if we had been long habituated +to a confidence in our present associates: indeed, we had no +alternative; for so great were the fatigues of the day in our mode of +travelling, that we were in great need of rest at night. + + +_Friday, 5._--We had no sooner laid ourselves down to rest last night, +than the natives began to sing, in a manner very different from what I +had been accustomed to hear among savages. It was not accompanied +either with dancing, drum, or rattle; but consisted of soft plaintive +tones, and a modulation that was rather agreeable: it had somewhat the +air of church music. As the natives had requested me not to quit them +at a very early hour in the morning, it was five before I desired that +the young men, who were to proceed with us, should depart, when they +prepared to set off: but on calling to our guide to conduct us, he said +that he did not intend to accompany us any further; as the young men +would answer our purpose as well as himself. I knew it would be in vain +to remonstrate with him, and therefore submitted to his caprice without +a reply. However, I thought proper to inform him, that one of my people +had lost his dag or poignard, and requested his assistance in the +recovery of it. He asked me what I would give him to conjure it back +again; and a knife was agreed to be the price of his necromantic +exertions. Accordingly, all the dags and knives in the place were +gathered together, and the natives formed a circle round them; the +conjurer also remaining in the middle. When this part of the ceremony +was arranged, he began to sing, the rest joining in the chorus; and +after some time he produced the poignard, which was stuck in the ground, +and returned it to me. + +At seven we were ready to depart; when I was surprised to hear our late +guide propose, without any solicitation on our part, to resume his +office; and he actually conducted us as far as a small lake, where we +found an encampment of three families. The young men who had undertaken +to conduct us, were not well understood by my interpreters, who +continued to be so displeased with their journey, that they performed +this part of their duty with great reluctance. I endeavoured to +persuade an elderly man of this encampment to accompany us to the next +tribe, but no inducement of mine could prevail on him to comply with my +wishes. I was, therefore, obliged to content myself with the guides I +had already engaged, for whom we were obliged to wait some time, till +they had provided shoes for their journey. I exchanged two halfpence +here, one of his present Majesty, and the other of the State of +Massachusett's Bay, coined in 1787. They hung as ornaments in +children's ears. + +My situation here was rendered rather unpleasant by the treatment which +my hunters received from these people. The former, it appeared, were +considered as belonging to a tribe who inhabit the mountains, and are +the natural enemies of the latter. We had also been told by one of the +natives, of a very stern aspect, that he had been stabbed by a relation +of theirs, and pointed to a scar as the proof of it. I was, therefore, +very glad to proceed on my journey. + +Our guides conducted us along the lake through thick woods, and without +any path, for about a mile and a half, when we lost sight of it. This +piece of water is about three miles long and one broad. We then crossed +a creek and entered upon a beaten track, through an open country, +sprinkled with cyprus trees. At twelve the sky became black, and a +heavy gust with rain shortly followed, which continued for upwards of an +hour. When we perceived the approaching storm, we fixed our thin light +oil-cloth to screen us from it. On renewing our march, as the bushes +were very wet, I desired our guides, they having no burdens, to walk in +front and beat them as they went: this task they chose to decline, and +accordingly I undertook it. Our road now lay along a lake, and across a +creek that ran into it. The guides informed me, that this part of the +country abounds in beaver: many traps were seen along the road, which +had been set for lynxes and martens. About a quarter of a mile from the +place where we had been stopped by the rain, the ground was covered with +hail, and as we advanced, the hailstones increased in size, some of them +being as big as musket-balls. In this manner was the ground whitened +for upwards of two miles. At five in the afternoon we arrived on the +banks of another lake, when it again threatened rain; and we had already +been sufficiently wetted in the course of the day, to look with +complacency towards a repetition of it: we accordingly fixed our shed, +the rain continuing with great violence through the remainder of the +day: it was therefore determined, that we should stop here for the +night. + +In the course of the day we passed three winter huts; they consisted of +low walls, with a ridge pole, covered with the branches of the Canadian +balsam-tree. One of my men had a violent pain in his knee, and I asked +the guides to take a share of his burden, as they had nothing to carry +but their beaver robes, and bows and arrows, but they could not be made +to understand a word of my request. + + +_Saturday, 6._--At four this morning I arose from my bed, such as it +was. As we must have been in a most unfortunate predicament, if our +guides should have deserted us in the night, by way of security, I +proposed to the youngest of them to sleep with me, and he readily +consented. These people have no covering but their beaver garments, and +that of my companions was a nest of vermin. I, however, spread it under +us, and having laid down upon it, we covered ourselves with my camblet +cloak. My companion's hair being greased with fish-oil, and his body +smeared with red earth, my sense of smelling as well as that of feeling, +threatened to interrupt my rest; but these inconveniences yielded to my +fatigue, and I passed a night of sound repose. + +I took the lead in our march, as I had done yesterday, in order to clear +the branches of the wet which continued to hang upon them. We proceeded +with all possible expedition through a level country with but little +underwood; the larger trees were of the fir kind. At half past eight we +fell upon the road, which we first intended to have taken from the Great +River, and must be shorter than that which we had travelled. The +West-road river was also in sight, winding through a valley. We had not +met with any water since our encampment of last night, and though we +were afflicted with violent thirst, the river was at such a distance +from us, and the descent to it so long and steep, that we were compelled +to be satisfied with casting our longing looks towards it. There +appeared to be more water in the river here, than at its discharge. The +Indian account, that it is navigable for their canoes, is, I believe, +perfectly correct. + +Our guides now told us, that as the road was very good and well traced, +they would proceed to inform the next tribe that we were coming. This +information was of a very unpleasant nature; as it would have been easy +for them to turn off the road at an hundred yards from us, and, when we +had passed them, to return home. I proposed that one of them should +remain with us, while two of my people should leave their loads behind +and accompany the other to the lodges. But they would not stay to hear +our persuasions, and were soon out of sight. + +I now desired the Cancre to leave his burden, take a small quantity of +provision, with his arms and blanket, and follow me. I also told my men +to come on as fast as they could, and that I would wait for them as soon +as I had formed an acquaintance with the natives of the country before +us. We accordingly followed our guides with all the expedition in our +power, but did not overtake them till we came to a family of natives, +consisting of one man, two women, and six children, with whom we found +them. These people betrayed no signs of fear at our appearance, and the +man willingly conversed with my interpreter, to whom he made himself +more intelligible, than our guides had been able to do. They, however, +had informed him of the object of our journey. He pointed out to us one +of his wives, who was a native of the sea coast, which was not a very +great distance from us. This woman was more inclined to corpulency than +any we had yet seen, was of low stature, with an oblong face, grey eyes, +and a flattish nose. She was decorated with ornaments of various kinds, +such as large blue beads, either pendant from her ears, encircling her +neck, or braided in her hair: she also wore bracelets of brass, copper, +and horn. Her garments consisted of a kind of tunic, which was covered +with a robe of matted bark, fringed round the bottom with skin of the +sea otter. None of the women whom I had seen since we crossed the +mountain wore this kind of tunic; their blankets being merely girt round +the waist. She had learned the language of her husband's tribe, and +confirmed his account, that we were at no great distance from the sea. +They were on their way, she said, to the great river to fish. Age +seemed to be an object of great veneration among these people, for they +carried an old woman by turns on their backs who was quite blind and +infirm from the very advanced period of her life. + +Our people having joined us and rested themselves, I requested our +guides to proceed, when the elder of them told me that he should not go +any further, but that these people would send a boy to accompany his +brother, and I began to think myself rather fortunate, that we were not +deserted by them all. + +About noon we parted, and in two hours we came up with two men and their +families: when we first saw them they were sitting down, as if to rest +themselves; but no sooner did they perceive us than they rose up and +seized their arms.--The boys who were behind us immediately ran +forwards and spoke to them, when they laid by their arms and received us +as friends. They had been eating green berries and dried fish We had, +indeed, scarcely joined them, when a woman and a boy came from the river +with water, which they very hospitably gave us to drink. The people of +this party had a very sickly appearance, which might have been the +consequence of disease, or that indolence which is so natural to them, +or of both. One of the women had a tattooed line along the chin, of the +same length of her mouth. + +The lads now informed me that they would go no further, but that these +men would take their places; and they parted from their families with as +little apparent concern, as if they were entire strangers to each other. +One of them was very well understood by my interpreter, and had resided +among the natives of the sea coast, whom he had left but a short time. +According to his information, we were approaching a river, which was +neither large nor long, but whose banks were inhabited; and that in the +bay which the sea forms at the mouth of it, a great wooden canoe, with +white people, arrives about the time when the leaves begin to grow; I +presume in the early part of May. + +After we parted with the last people, we came to an uneven, hilly, +swampy country, through which our way was impeded by a considerable +number of fallen trees. At five in the afternoon we were overtaken by a +heavy shower of rain and hail, and being at the same time very much +fatigued, we encamped for the night near a small creek. Our course till +we came to the river, was about South-West ten miles, and then West, +twelve or fourteen miles. I thought it prudent, by way of security, to +submit to the same inconveniences I have already described, and shared +the beaver robe of one of my guides during the night. + + +_Sunday, 7._--I was so busily employed in collecting intelligence from +our conductors, that I last night forgot to wind up my timepiece, and it +was the only instance of such an act of negligence since I left Fort +Chepewyan on the 11th of last October. At five we quitted our station, +and proceeded across two mountains, covered with spruce, poplar, +white-birch, and other trees. We then descended into a level country, +where we found a good road, through woods of cypress. We then came to +two small lakes, at the distance of about fourteen miles. Course about +West. Through them the river passes, and our road kept in a parallel +line with it on a range of elevated ground. On observing some people +before us, our guides hastened to meet them, and, on their approach, one +of them stepped forward with an axe in his hand. This party consisted +only of a man, two women, and the same number of children. The eldest +of the women, who probably was the man's mother, was engaged, when we +joined them, in clearing a circular spot, of about five feet in +diameter, of the weeds that infested it; nor did our arrival interrupt +her employment, which was sacred to the memory of the dead. The spot to +which her pious care was devoted, contained the grave of an husband, and +a son, and whenever she passed this way, she always stopped to pay this +tribute of affection. + +As soon as we had taken our morning allowance, we set forwards, and +about three we perceived more people before us. After some alarm we +came up with them. They consisted of seven men, as many women, and +several children. Here I was under the necessity of procuring another +guide, and we continued our route on the same side of the river, till +six in the evening, when we crossed it. It was knee deep, and about an +hundred yards over. I wished now to stop for the night, as we were all +of us very much fatigued, but our guide recommended us to proceed +onwards to a family of his friends, at a small distance from thence, +where we arrived at half past seven. He had gone forward, and procured +us a welcome and quiet reception. There being a net hanging to dry, I +requested the man to prepare and set it in the water, which he did with +great expedition, and then presented me with a few small dried fish. +Our course was South-West about twelve miles, part of which was an +extensive swamp, that was seldom less than knee deep. In the course of +the afternoon we had several showers of rain: I had attempted to take an +altitude, but it was past meridian. The water of the river before the +lodge was quite still, and expanded itself the form of a small lake. In +many other places, indeed, it had assumed the same form. + + +_Monday, 8._--It rained throughout the night, and it was seven in the +morning before the weather would allow us to proceed. The guide brought +me five small boiled fish, in a platter made of bark; some of them were +of the carp kind, and the rest of a species for which I am not qualified +to furnish a name. Having dried our clothes, we set off on our march +about eight, and our guide very cheerfully continued to accompany us; +but he was not altogether so intelligible as his predecessors in our +service. We learned from him, however, that this lake, through which +the river passes, extends to the foot of the mountain, and that he +expected to meet nine men, of a tribe which inhabits the North side of +the river. + +In this part of our journey we were surprised with the appearance of +several regular basons, some of them furnished with water, and the +others empty; their slope from the edge to the bottom formed an angle of +about forty-five degrees, and their perpendicular depth was about twelve +feet. Those that contained water, discovered gravel near their edges, +while the empty ones were covered with grass and herbs, among which we +discovered mustard, and mint. There were also several places from +whence the water appears to have retired, which are covered with the +same soil and herbage. + +We now proceeded along a very uneven country, the upper parts of which +were covered with poplars, a little under-wood, and plenty of grass: the +intervening vallies were watered with rivulets. From these +circumstances, and the general appearance of vegetation, I could not +account for the apparent absence of animals of every kind. + + +_Tuesday, 9._--At two in the afternoon we arrived at the largest river +that we had seen, since we left our canoe, and which forced its way +between and over the huge stones that opposed its current. Our course +was about South-South-West sixteen miles along the river, which might +here justify the title of a lake. The road was good, and our next +course, which was West by South, brought us onward ten miles, where we +encamped, fatigued and wet, it having rained three parts of the day. +This river abounds with fish, and must fall into the great river, +further down than we had extended our voyage. + +A heavy and continued rain fell through great part of the night, and as +we were in some measure exposed to it, time was required to dry our +clothes; so that it was half past seven in the morning before we were +ready to set out. As we found the country so destitute of game, and +foreseeing the difficulty of procuring provisions for our return, I +thought it prudent to conceal half a bag of pemmican: having sent off +the Indians, and all my people except two, we buried it under the +fire-place, as we had done on a former occasion. We soon overtook our +party, and continued our route along the river or lake. About twelve I +had an altitude, but it was inaccurate from the cloudiness of the +weather. We continued our progress till five in the afternoon, when the +water began to narrow, and in about half an hour we came to a ferry, +where we found a small raft. At this time it began to thunder, and +torrents of rain soon followed, which terminated our journey for the +day. Our course was about South, twenty-one miles from the lake already +mentioned. We now discovered the tops of mountains, covered with snow, +over very high intermediate land. We killed a whitehead and a grey +eagle, and three grey partridges; we also saw two otters in the river, +and several beaver lodges along it. When the rain ceased, we caught a +few small fish, and repaired the raft for the service of the ensuing +day. + + +_Wednesday, 10._--At an early hour of this morning we prepared to +cross the water. The traverse is about thirty yards, and it required +five trips to get us all over. At a short distance below, a small river +falls in, that comes from the direction in which we were proceeding. It +is a rapid for about three hundred yards, when it expands into a lake, +along which our road conducted us, and beneath a range of beautiful +hills, covered with verdure. At half past eight we came to the +termination of the lake, where there were two houses that occupied a +most delightful situation, and as they contained their necessary +furniture, it seemed probable that their owners intended shortly to +return. Near them were several graves or tombs, to which the natives +are particularly attentive, and never suffer any herbage to grow upon +them. In about half an hour we reached a place where there were two +temporary huts, that contained thirteen men, with whom we found our +guide who had preceded us, in order to secure a good reception. The +buildings were detached from each other, and conveniently placed for +fishing in the lake. Their inhabitants called themselves +Sloua-cuss-Dinais, which denomination, as far as my interpreter could +explain it to me, I understood to mean Red-fish Men. They were much +more cleanly, healthy, and agreeable in their appearance, than any of +the natives whom we had passed; nevertheless, I have no doubt that they +are the same people, from their name alone, which is of the Chepewyan +language. My interpreters, however, understood very little of what they +said, so that I did not expect much information from them. Some of them +said it was a journey of four days to the sea, and others were of +opinion that it was six; and there were among them who extended it to +eight; but they all uniformly declared that they had been to the coast. +They did not entertain the smallest apprehension of danger from us, and, +when we discharged our pieces, expressed no sensation but that of +astonishment, which, as may be supposed, was proportionably increased +when one of the hunters shot an eagle, at a considerable distance. At +twelve I obtained an altitude, which made our latitude 53. 4. 32. North, +being not so far South as I expected. + +I now went, accompanied by one of my men, an interpreter, and the guide, +to visit some huts at the distance of a mile. On our arrival, the +inhabitants presented us with a dish of boiled trout, of a small kind. +The fish would have been excellent if it had not tasted of the kettle, +which was made of the bark of the white spruce, and of the dried grass +with which it was boiled. Besides this kind of trout, red and white +carp and jub, are the only fish I saw as the produce of these waters. + +These people appeared to live in a state of comparative comfort; they +take a greater share in the labour of the women, than is common among +the savage tribes, and are, as I was informed, content with one wife. +Though this circumstance may proceed rather from the difficulty of +procuring subsistence, than any habitual aversion to polygamy. + +My present guide now informed me, that he could not proceed any further, +and I accordingly engaged two of these people to succeed him in that +office; but when they desired us to proceed on the beaten path without +them, as they could not set off till the following day, I determined to +stay that night, in order to accommodate myself to their convenience. I +distributed some trifles among the wives and children of the men who +were to be our future guides, and returned to my people. We came back +by a different way, and passed by two buildings, erected between four +trees, and about fifteen feet from the ground, which appeared to me to +be intended as magazines for winter provisions. At four in the +afternoon, we proceeded with considerable expedition, by the side of the +lake, till six, when we came to the end of it: we then struck off +through a much less beaten track, and at half past seven stopped for the +night. Our course, was about West-South-West thirteen miles, and West +six miles. + + +_Thursday, 11._--I passed a most uncomfortable night: the first part +of it I was tormented with flies, and in the latter deluged with rain. +In the morning the weather cleared, and as soon as our clothes were +dried, we proceeded through a morass. This part of the country had been +laid waste by fire, and the fallen trees added to the pain and +perplexity of our way. A high, rocky ridge stretched along our left. +Though the rain returned, we continued our progress till noon, when our +guide took to some trees for shelter. We then spread our oil-cloth, +and, with some difficulty, made a fire. About two the rain ceased, when +we continued our journey through the same kind of country which we had +hitherto passed. At half past three we came in sight of a lake; the +land at the same time gradually rising to a range of mountains whose +tops were covered with snow. We soon after observed two fresh tracks, +which seemed to surprise our guides, but they supposed them to have been +made by the inhabitants of the country, who were come into this part of +it to fish. At five in the afternoon we were so wet and cold (for it +had at intervals continued to rain) that we were compelled to stop for +the night. We passed seven rivulets and a creek in this day's journey, +As I had hitherto regulated our course by the sun, I could not form an +accurate judgment of this route, as we had not been favoured with a +sight of it during the day; but I imagine it to have been nearly in the +same direction as that of yesterday. Our distance could not have been +less than fifteen miles. + +Our conductors now began to complain of our mode of travelling, and +mentioned their intention of leaving us; and my interpreters, who were +equally dissatisfied, added to our perplexity by their conduct. Besides +these circumstances, and the apprehension that the distance from the sea +might be greater than I had imagined, it became a matter of real +necessity that we should begin to diminish the consumption of our +provisions, and to subsist upon two-thirds of our allowance; a +preposition which was as unwelcome to my people, as it was necessary to +put into immediate practice. + + +_Friday, 12._--At half past five this morning we proceeded on our +journey, with cloudy weather, and when we came to the end of the lake, +several tracks were visible that led to the side of the water; from +which circumstance I concluded, that some of the natives were fishing +along the banks of it. This lake is not more than three miles long, and +about one broad. We then passed four smaller lakes, the two first being +on our right, and those which preceded, on our left. A small river also +flowed across our way from the right, and we passed it over a +beaver-dam. A larger lake new appeared on our right, and the mountains +on each side of us were covered with snow. We afterwards came to +another lake on our right, and soon reached a river, which our guides +informed us was the same that we had passed on a raft. They said it was +navigable for canoes from the great river, except two rapids, one of +which we had seen. At this place it was upwards of twenty yards across, +and deep water. One of the guides swam over to fetch a raft which was +on the opposite side; and having encreased its dimensions, we crossed at +two trips, except four of the men, who preferred swimming. + +Here our conductors renewed their menace of leaving us, and I was +obliged to give them several articles, and promise more, in order to +induce them to continue till we could procure other natives to succeed +them. At four in the afternoon we forded the same river, and being with +the guides at some distance before the rest of the people, I sat down to +wait for them, and no sooner did they arrive, than the former set off +with so much speed, that my attempt to follow them proved unsuccessful. +One of my Indians, however, who had no load, overtook them, when they +excused themselves to him by declaring that their sole motive for +leaving us, was to prevent the people, whom they expected to find, from +shooting their arrows at us. At seven o'clock, however, were so +fatigued, that we encamped without them; the mountains covered with snow +now appeared to be directly before us. As we were collecting wood for +our fire, we discovered a cross road, where it appeared that people had +passed within seven or eight days. In short, our situation was such as +to afford a just cause of alarm, and that of the people with me was of a +nature to defy immediate alleviation. It was necessary, however, for me +to attempt it; and I rested my principles of encouragement on a +representation of our past perplexities and unexpected relief, and +endeavoured to excite in them the hope of similar good fortune. I +stated to them, that we could not be at a great distance from the sea, +and that there were but few natives to pass, till we should arrive among +those, who being accustomed to visit the sea coast, and, having seen +white people, would be disposed to treat us with kindness. Such was the +general tenor of the reasoning I employed on the occasion, and I was +happy to find that it was not offered in vain. + +The weather had been cloudy till three in the afternoon, when the sun +appeared; but surrounded, as we were, with snow-clad mountains; the air +became so cold, that the violence of our exercise, was not sufficient to +produce a comfortable degree of warmth. Our course to-day was from West +to South and at least thirty-six miles. The land in general was very +barren and stony, and lay in ridges, with cypress trees scattered over +them. We passed several swamps, where we saw nothing to console us but +a few tracks of deer. + + +_Saturday, 13._--The weather this morning was clear but cold, and our +scanty covering was not sufficient to protect us from the severity of +the night. About five, after we had warmed ourselves at a large fire, +we proceeded on our dubious journey. In about an hour we came to the +edge of a wood, when we perceived a house, situated on a green spot, and +by the side of a small river. The smoke that issued from it informed us +that it was inhabited. I immediately pushed forward towards this +mansion, while my people were in such a state of alarm, that they +followed me with the greatest reluctance. On looking back, I perceived +that we were in an Indian defile, of fifty yards in length. I, however, +was close upon the house before the inhabitants perceived us, when the +women and children uttered the most horrid shrieks, and the only man who +appeared to be with them, escaped out of a back door, which I reached in +time to prevent the women and children from following him. The man fled +with all his speed into the wood, and I called in vain on my +interpreters to speak to him, but they were so agitated with fear as to +have lost the power of utterance. It is impossible to describe the +distress and alarm of these poor people, who believing that they were +attacked by enemies, expected an immediate massacre, which, among +themselves, never fails to follow such an event. + +Our prisoners consisted of three women, and seven children, which +apparently composed three families. At length, however, by our +demeanor, and our presents, we contrived to dissipate their +apprehensions. One of the women then informed us, that their people, +with several others had left that place three nights before, on a +trading journey to a tribe whom she called Annah, which is the name the +Chepewyans give to the Knisteneaux, at the distance of three days. She +added also, that from the mountains before us, which were covered with +snow, the sea was visible; and accompanied her information with a +present of a couple of dried fish. We now expressed our desire that the +man might be induced to return, and conduct us in the road to the sea. +Indeed, it was not long before he discovered himself in the wood, when +he was assured, both by the women and our interpreters, that we had no +hostile design against him; but these assurances had no effect in +quieting his apprehensions. I then attempted to go to him alone, and +showed him a knife, beads, &c., to induce him to come to me, but he, in +return, made a hostile display of his bow and arrows: and, having for +some time exhibited a variety of strange antics, again disappeared. +However, he soon presented himself in another quarter, and after a +succession of parleys between us, he engaged to come and accompany us. + +While these negotiations were proceeding, I proposed to visit the +fishing machines, to which the women readily consented, and I found in +them twenty small fish, such as trout, carp, and jub, for which I gave +her a large knife; a present that appeared to be equally unexpected and +gratifying to her. Another man now came towards us, from a hill, +talking aloud from the time he appeared, till he reached us. The +purport of his speech was, that he threw himself upon our mercy and we +might kill him, if it was our pleasure but that from what he had heard, +he looked rather for our friendship than our enmity. He was an elderly +person, of a decent appearance, and I gave him some articles to +conciliate him to us. The first man now followed with a lad along with +him, both of whom were the sons of the old man, and, on his arrival, he +gave me several half dried fish, which I considered as a peace-offering. +After some conversation with these people, respecting the country, and +our future progress through it, we retired to rest, with sensations very +different from those with which we had risen in the morning. The +weather had been generally cloudy throughout the day, and when the sun +was obscured, extremely cold for the season. At noon I obtained a +meridian altitude, which gave 52. 58. 58. North latitude. I likewise +took time in the after-noon. + + +_Sunday, 14._--This morning we had a bright sun, with an East wind. +These people examined their fishing machines, when they found in them a +great number of small fish, and we dressed as many of them as we could +eat. Thus was our departure retarded until seven, when we proceeded on +our journey, accompanied by the man and his two sons. As I did not want +the younger, and should be obliged to feed him, I requested of his +father to leave him, for the purpose of fishing for the women. He +replied, that they were accustomed to fish for themselves, and that I +need not be apprehensive of their encroaching upon my provisions, as +they were used to sustain themselves in their journies on herbs, and the +inner tegument of the bark of trees, for the stripping of which he had a +thin piece of bone, then hanging by his side. The latter is of +glutinous quality, of a clammy, sweet taste, and is generally considered +by the more interior Indians as a delicacy, rather than an article of +common food. Our guide informed me that there is a short cut across the +mountains, but as there was no trace of a road, and it would shorten our +journey but one day, he should prefer the beaten way. + +We accordingly proceeded along a lake, West five miles. We then crossed +a small river, and passed through a swamp, about South-West, when we +began gradually to ascend for some time till we gained the summit of a +hill, where we had an extensive view to the South-East, from which +direction a considerable river appeared to flow, at the distance of +about three miles: it was represented to me as being navigable for +canoes. The descent of this hill was more steep than its ascent, and +was succeeded by another, whose top, though not so elevated as the last, +afforded a view of the range of mountains, covered with snow, which, +according to the intelligence of our guide, terminates in the ocean. We +now left a small lake on our left, then crossed a creek running out of +it, and at one in the afternoon came to a house, of the same +construction and dimensions as have already been mentioned, but the +materials were much better prepared and finished. The timber was +squared on two sides, and the bark taken off the two others; the ridge +pole was also shaped in the same manner, extending about eight or ten +feet beyond the gable end, and supporting a shed over the door: the end +of it was carved into the similitude of a snake's head. Several +hieroglyphics and figures of a similar workmanship, and painted with red +earth, decorated the interior of the building. The inhabitants had left +the house but a short time, and there were several bags or bundles in +it, which I did not suffer to be disturbed. Near it were two tombs, +surrounded in a neat manner with boards, and covered with bark. Beside +them several poles had been erected, one of which was squared, and all +of them painted. From each of them were suspended several rolls or +parcels of bark, and our guide gave the following account of them; +which, as far as we could judge, from our imperfect knowledge of the +language, and the incidental errors of interpretation, appeared to +involve two different modes of treating their dead; or it might be one +and the same ceremony, which we did not distinctly comprehend: at all +events, it is the practice of these people to burn the bodies of their +dead, except the larger bones, which are rolled up in bark and suspended +from poles, as I have already described. According to the other +account, it appeared that they actually bury their dead; and when +another of the family dies, the remains of the person who was last +interred are taken from the grave and burned, has been already +mentioned; so that the members of a family are thus successively buried +and burned, to make room for each other; and one tomb proves sufficient +for a family through succeeding generations. There is no house in this +country without a tomb in its vicinity. Our last course extended about +ten miles. + +We continued our journey along the lake before the house, and, crossing +a river that flowed out of it, came to a kind of bank, or weir, formed +by the natives, for the purpose of placing their fishing machines, many +of which of different sizes, were lying on the side of the river. Our +guide placed one of them, with the certain expectation that on his +return he should find plenty of fish in it. We proceeded nine miles +further, on a good road, West-South-West, when we came to a small lake: +we then crossed a river that ran out of it, and our guides were in +continual expectation of meeting with some of the natives. To this +place our course was a mile and a half, in the same direction as the +last. At nine at night we crossed a river on rafts, our last distance +being about four miles South-East, on a winding road, through a swampy +country, and along a succession of small lakes. We were now quite +exhausted, and it was absolutely necessary for us to stop for the night. +The weather being clear throughout the day, we had no reason to complain +of the cold. Our guides encouraged us with the hope that, in two days +of similar exertion, we should arrive among people of the other nation. + + +_Monday, 15._--At five this morning we were again in motion, and +passing along a river, we at length forded it. This stream was not more +than knee deep, about thirty yards over, and with a stony bottom. The +old man went onward by himself, in the hope of falling in with the +people, whom he expected to meet in the course of the day. At eleven we +came up with him, and the natives whom he expected, consisting of five +men, and part of their families. They received us with great kindness, +and examined us with the most minute attention. They must, however, +have been told that we were white, as our faces no longer indicated that +distinguishing complexion. They called themselves Neguia Dinais, and +were come in a different direction from us, but were now going the same +way, to the Anah-yoe Tesse or River, and appeared to be very much +satisfied with our having joined them. They presented us with some fish +which they had just taken in the adjoining lake. + +Here I expected that our guides, like their predecessors, would have +quitted us, but, on the contrary, they expressed themselves to be so +happy, in our company, and that of their friends, that they voluntarily, +and with great cheerfulness proceeded to pass another night with us. +Our new acquaintance were people of a very pleasing aspect. The hair of +the women was tied in large loose knots over the ears, and plaited with +great neatness from the division of the head, so as to be included in +the knots. Some of them had adorned their tresses with beads, with a +very pretty effect. The men were clothed in leather, their hair was +nicely combed, and their complexion was fairer, or perhaps it may be +said, with more propriety, that they were more cleanly, than any of the +natives whom we had yet seen. Their eyes, though keen and sharp, are +not of that dark colour, so generally observable in the various tribes +of Indians; they were, on the contrary, of a grey hue, with a tinge of +red. There was one man amongst them of at least six feet four inches in +height; his manners were affable, and he had a more prepossessing +appearance than any Indian I had met with in my journey; he was about +twenty-eight years of age, and was treated with particular respect by +his party. Every man, woman, and child carried a proportionate burden, +consisting of beaver coating, and parchment, as well as skins of the +otter, the marten, the bear, the lynx, and dressed moose-skins. The +last they procure from the Rocky-Mountain Indians. According to their +account, the people of the sea coast prefer them to any other article. +Several of their relations and friends, they said, were already gone, +as well provided as themselves, to barter with the people of the coast; +who barter them in their turn, except the dressed leather, with white +people, who, as they had been informed, arrive there in large canoes. + +Such an escort was the most fortunate circumstance that could happen in +our favour. They told us, that as the women and children could not +travel fast, we should be three days in getting to the end of our +journey; which must be supposed to have been very agreeable infomation +to people in our exhausted condition. + +In about half an hour after we had joined our new acquaintance, the +signal for moving onwards was given by the leader of the party, who +vociferated, the words Huy, Huy, when his people joined him and +continued a clamorous conversation. We passed along a winding road, +over hills, and through swampy vallies, from South to West. We then +crossed a deep, narrow river, which discharges itself into a lake, on +whose side we stopped at five in the afternoon, for the night, though we +had reposed several times since twelve at noon; so that our mode of +travelling had undergone a very agreeable change. I compute the +distance of this day's journey at about twenty miles. In the middle of +the day the weather was clear and sultry. + +We all sat down on a very pleasant green spot, and were no sooner +seated, than our guide and one of the party prepared to engage in play. +They had each a bundle of about fifty small sticks, neatly polished, of +the size of a quill, and five inches long: a certain number of these +sticks had red lines round them; and as many of these as one of the +players might find convenient were curiously rolled up in dry grass, and +according to the judgment of his antagonist respecting their number and +marks, he lost or won. Our friend was apparently the loser, as he +parted with his bow and arrows, and several articles which I had given +him. + + +_Tuesday, 16._--The weather of this morning was the same as yesterday; +but our fellow-travellers were in no hurry to proceed, and I was under +the necessity of pressing them into greater expedition, by representing +the almost exhausted state of our provisions. They, however, assured +us, that after the next night's sleep we should arrive at the river +where they were going and that we should there get fish in great +abundance. My young men, from an act of imprudence, deprived themselves +last night of that rest which was so necessary to them. One of the +strangers asking them several questions respecting us, and concerning +their own country, one of them gave such answers as were not credited by +the audience; whereupon he demanded, in a very angry tone, if they +thought he was disposed to tell lies, like the Rocky Mountain Indians; +and one of that tribe happening to be of the party, a quarrel ensued, +which might have been attended with the most serious consequences, if it +had not been fortunately prevented by the interference of those who were +not interested in the dispute. + +Though our stock of provisions was getting so low, I determined, +nevertheless, to hide about twenty pounds of pemmican, by way of +providing against our return. I therefore left two of the men behind, +with directions to bury it, as usual, under the place where we had made +our fire. + +Our course was about West-South-West by the side of the lake, and in +about two miles we came to the end of it. Here was a general halt, when +my men overtook us. I was now informed, that some people of another +tribe were sent for, who wished very much to see us, two of whom would +accompany us over the mountains; that, as for themselves, they had +changed their mind, and intended to follow a small river which issued +out of the lake, and went in a direction very different from the line of +our journey. This was a disappointment, which, though not uncommon to +us, might have been followed by considerable inconveniences. It was my +wish to continue with them whatever way they went; but neither my +promises or entreaties would avail; these people were not to be turned +from their purpose; and when I represented the low state of our +provisions, one of them answered, that if we would stay with them all +night, he would boil a kettle of fish-roes for us. Accordingly, without +receiving any answer, he began to make preparation to fulfil his +engagement. He took the roes out of a bag, and having bruised them +between two stones, put them in water to soak. His wife then took an +handful of dry grass in her hand, with which she squeezed them through +her fingers; in the mean time her husband was employed in gathering wood +to make a fire, for the purpose of heating stones. When she had +finished her operation, she filled a water kettle nearly full of water, +and poured the roes into it. When the stones were sufficiently heated, +some of them were put into the kettle, and others were thrown in from +time to time, till the water was in a state of boiling; the woman also +continued stirring the contents of the kettle, till they were brought to +a thick consistency; the stones were then taken out, and the whole was +seasoned with about a pint of strong rancid oil. The smell of this +curious dish was sufficient to sicken me without tasting it, but the +hunger of my people surmounted the nauseous meal. When unadulterated by +the stinking oil, these boiled roes are not unpalatable food. + +In the mean time four of the people who had been expected, arrived, and, +according to the account given of them, were of two tribes whom I had +not yet known. After some conversation, they proposed, that I should +continue my route by their houses; but the old guide, who was now +preparing to leave us, informed me that it would lengthen my journey; +and by his advice I proposed to them to conduct us along the road which +had already been marked out to us. This they undertook without the +least hesitation; and, at the same time, pointed out to me the pass in +the mountain, bearing South by East by compass. Here I had a meridian +altitude, and took time. + +At four in the afternoon we parted with our late fellow-travellers in a +very friendly manner, and immediately forded the river. The wild +parsnip, which luxuriates on the borders of the lakes and rivers, is a +favourite food of the natives: they roast the tops of this plant, in +their tender state, over the fire, and taking off the outer rind, they +are then a very palatable food. + +We now entered the woods, and some time after arrived on the banks of +another river that flowed from the mountain, which we also forded. The +country soon after we left the river was swampy; and the fire having +passed through it, the number of trees, which had fallen, added to the +toil of our journey. In a short time we began to ascend, and continued +ascending till nine at night. We walked upwards of fourteen miles, +according to my computation, in the course of the day, though the strait +line of distance might not be more than ten. Notwithstanding that we +were surrounded by mountains covered with snow, we were very much +tormented with musquitoes. + + +_Wednesday, 17._--Before the sun rose, our guides summoned us to +proceed, when we descended into a beautiful valley, watered by a small +river. At eight we came to the termination of it, where we saw a great +number of moles, and began again to ascend. We now perceived many +ground-hogs, and heard them whistle in every direction. The Indians +went in pursuit of them, and soon joined us with a female and her +litter, almost grown to their full size. They stripped off their skins, +and gave the carcases to my people. They also pulled up a root, which +appeared like a bunch of white berries of the size of a pea; its shape +was that of a fig, while it had the colour and taste of a potatoe. + +We now gained the summit of the mountain, and found ourselves surrounded +by snow. But this circumstance is caused rather by the quantity of snow +drifted in the pass, than the real height of the spot, as the +surrounding mountains rise to a much higher degree of elevation. The +snow had become so compact that our feet hardly made a perceptible +impression on it. We observed, however, the tracks of an herd of small +deer which must have passed a short time before us, and the Indians and +my hunters went immediately in pursuit of them. Our way was now nearly +level, without the least snow, and not a tree to be seen in any part of +it. The grass is very short, and the soil a reddish clay, intermixed +with small stones. The face of the hills, where they are not enlivened +with verdure, appears, at a distance, as if fire had passed over them. +It now began to hail, snow, and rain, nor could we find any shelter but +the leeward side of an huge rock. The wind also rose into a tempest, +and the weather was as distressing as any I had ever experienced. After +an absence of an hour and a half, our hunters brought a small doe of the +rein-deer species, which was all they had killed, though they fired +twelve shots at a large herd of them. Their ill success they attributed +to the weather. I proposed to leave half of the venison in the snow, +but the men preferred carrying it, though their strength was very much +exhausted. We had been so long shivering with cold in this situation +that we were glad to renew our march. Here and there were scattered a +few crow-berry bushes and stinted willows; the former of which had not +yet blossomed. + +Before us appeared a stupendous mountain, whose snow-clad summit was +lost in the clouds; between it and our immediate course, flowed the +river to which we were going. The Indians informed us that it was at no +great distance. As soon as we could gather a sufficient quantity of +wood, we stopped to dress some of our venison; and it is almost +superfluous to add, that we made an heartier meal than we had done for +many a day before. To the comfort which I have just mentioned, I added +that of taking off my beard, as well as changing my linen, and my people +followed the humanising example. We then set forwards, and came to a +large pond, on whose bank we found a tomb, but lately made, with a pole, +as usual, erected beside it, on which two figures of birds were painted, +and by them the guides distinguished the tribe to which the deceased +person belonged. One of them, very unceremoniously, opened the bark and +shewed us the bones which it contained, while the other threw down the +pole, and having possessed himself of the feathers that were tied to it, +fixed them on his own head. I therefore conjectured, that these funeral +memorials belonged to an individual of a tribe at enmity with them. + +We continued our route with a considerable degree of expedition, and as +we proceeded the mountains appeared to withdraw from us. The country +between them soon opened to our view, which apparently added to their +awful elevation. We continued to descend till we came to the brink of a +precipice, from whence our guides discovered the river to us, and a +village on its banks. This precipice, or rather succession of +precipices, is covered with large timber, which consists of the pine, +the spruce, the hemlock, the birch, and other trees. Our conductors +informed us, that it abounded in animals, which, from their description, +must be wild goats. In about two hours we arrived at the bottom, where +there is a conflux of two rivers, that issue from the mountains. We +crossed the one which was to the left. They are both very rapid, and +continue so till they unite their currents, forming a stream of about +twelve yards in breadth. Here the timber was also very large; but I +could not learn from our conductors why the most considerable hemlock +trees were stripped of their bark to the tops of them. I concluded, +indeed, at that time that the inhabitants tanned their leather with it. +Here were also the largest and loftiest elder and cedar trees that I had +ever seen. We were now sensible of an entire change in the climate, and +the berries were quite ripe. + +The sun was about to set, when our conductors left us to follow them as +well as we could. We were prevented, however, from going far astray, +for we were hemmed in on both sides and behind by such a barrier as +nature never before presented to my view. Our guides had the precaution +to mark the road for us, by breaking the branches of trees as they +passed. This small river must, at certain seasons, rise to an uncommon +height and strength of current most probably on the melting of the snow; +as we saw a large quantity of drift wood lying twelve feet above the +immediate level of the river. This circumstance impeded our progress, +and the protruding rocks frequently forced us to pass through the water. +It was now dark, without the least appearance of houses, though it would +be impossible to have seen them, if there had been any, at the distance +of twenty yards, from the thickness of the woods. My men were anxious +to stop for the night; indeed the fatigue they had suffered justified +the proposal, and I left them to their choice; but as the anxiety of my +mind impelled me forwards, they continued to follow me, till I found +myself at the edge of the woods; and, notwithstanding the remonstrances +that were made, I proceeded, feeling rather than seeing my way, till I +arrived at a house, and soon discovered several fires, in small huts, +with people busily employed in cooking their fish. I walked into one of +them without the least ceremony, threw down my burden, and, after +shaking hands with some of the people, sat down upon it. They received +me without the least appearance of surprize, but soon made signs for me +to go up to the large house, which was erected, on upright posts, at +some distance from the ground. A broad piece of timber with steps cut +in it, led to the scaffolding even with the floor, and by this curious +kind of ladder I entered the house at one end; and having passed three +fires, at equal distances in the middle of the building, I was received +by several people, sitting upon a very wide board, at the upper end of +it. I shook hands with them, and seated myself beside a man, the +dignity of whose countenance induced me to give him that preference. I +soon discovered one of my guides seated a little above me, with a neat +mat spread before him, which I supposed to be the place of honour, and +appropriated to strangers. + + +In a short time my people arrived, and placed themselves near me, when +the man, by whom I sat, immediately rose, and fetched, from behind a +plank of about four feet wide, a quantity of roasted salmon. He then +directed a mat to be placed before me and Mr. Mackay, who was now +sitting by me. When this ceremony was performed, he brought a salmon +for each of us, and half an one to each of my men. The same plank also +served as a screen for the beds, whither the women and children were +already retired; but whether that circumstances took place on our +arrival, or was the natural consequence of the late hour of the night, I +did not discover. The signs of our protector seemed to denote that we +might sleep in the house, but as we did not understand him with a +sufficient degree of certainty, I thought it prudent, from the fear of +giving offence, to order the men to make a fire without, that we might +sleep by it. When he observed our design, he placed boards for us, that +we might not take our repose on the bare ground, and ordered a fire to +be prepared for us. We had not been long seated round it, when we +received a large dish of salmon roes, pounded fine and beat up with +water, so as to have the appearance of a cream. Nor was it without some +kind of seasoning that gave it a bitter taste. Another dish soon +followed, the principal article of which was also salmon roes, with a +large proportion of gooseberries, and an herb that appeared to be +sorrel. Its acidity rendered it more agreeable to my taste than the +former preparation. Having been regaled with these delicacies, for such +they were considered by that hospitable spirit which provided them, we +laid ourselves down to rest, with no other canopy than the sky; but I +never enjoyed a more sound and refreshing rest, though I had a board for +my bed, and a billet for my pillow. + + +_Thursday, 18._--At five this morning I awoke, and found that the +natives had lighted a fire for us, and were sitting by it. My +hospitable friend immediately brought me some berries and roasted +salmon, and his companions soon followed his example. The former, which +consisted among many others, of gooseberries, hurtleberries, and +raspberries, were of the finest I ever saw or tasted, of their +respective kinds. They also brought the dried roes of fish to eat with +the berries. + +Salmon is so abundant in this river, that these people +have a constant and plentiful supply of that excellent fish. To take +them with more facility, they had, with great labour, formed an +embankment or weir across the river, for the purpose of placing their +fishing machines, which they disposed both above and below it. I +expressed my wish to visit this extraordinary work, but these people are +so superstitious, that they would not allow me a nearer examination than +I could obtain by viewing it from the bank. The river is about fifty +yards in breadth, and by observing a man fish with a dipping net, I +judged it to be about ten feet deep at the foot of the fall. The weir +is a work of great labour, and contrived with considerable ingenuity. +It was near four feet above the level of the water, at the time I saw +it, and nearly the height of the bank on which I stood to examine it. +The stream is stopped nearly two-thirds by it. It is constructed by +fixing small trees in the bed of the river, in a slanting position +(which could be practicable only when the water is much lower than when +I saw it) with the thick part downwards; over these is laid a bed of +gravel, on which is placed a range of lesser trees, and so on +alternately till the work is brought to its proper height. Beneath it +the machines are placed, into which the salmon fall when they attempt to +leap over. On either side there is a large frame of timber-work, six +feet above the level of the upper water, in which passages are left for +the salmon leading directly into the machines, which are taken up at +pleasure. At the foot of the fall dipping nets are also successfully +employed. + +The water of this river is of the colour of asses' milk, +which I attributed in part to the limestone that in many places forms +the bed of the river, but principally to the rivulets which fall from +mountains of the same material. + +These people indulge an extreme superstition respecting their fish, as +it is apparently their only animal food. Flesh they never taste, and +one of their dogs having picked and swallowed part of a bone which we +had left, was beaten by his master till he disgorged it. One of my +people also having thrown a bone of the deer into the river, a native, +who had observed the circumstance, immediately dived and brought it up, +and, having consigned it to the fire, instantly proceeded to wash his +polluted hands. + +As we were still at some distance from the sea, I made application to my +friend to procure us a canoe or two, with people to conduct us thither. +After he had made various excuses, I at length comprehended that his +only objection was to the embarking venison in a canoe on their river, +as the fish would instantly smell it and abandon them, so that he, his +friends, and relations, must starve. I soon eased his apprehensions on +that point, and desired to know what I must do with the venison that +remained, when he told me to give it to one of the strangers whom he +pointed out to me, as being of a tribe that eat flesh. I now requested +him to furnish me with some fresh salmon in its raw state; but, instead +of complying with my wish, he brought me a couple of them roasted, +observing at the same time, that the current was very strong, and would +bring us to the next village, where our wants would be abundantly +supplied, In short, he requested that we would make haste to depart. +This was rather unexpected after so much kindness and hospitality, but +our ignorance of the language prevented us from being able to discover +the cause. + +At eight this morning, fifteen men armed, the friends and relations of +these people, arrived by land, in consequence of notice sent them in the +night, immediately after the appearance of our guides. They are more +corpulent and of a better appearance than the inhabitants of the +interior. Their language totally different from any I had heard; the +Atnah or Chin tribe, as far as I can judge from the very little I saw of +that people, bear the nearest resemblance to them. They appear to be of +a quiet and peaceable character, and never make any hostile incursions +into the lands of their neighbours. Their dress consists of a single +robe tied over the shoulders, falling down behind, to the heels, and +before, a little below the knees, with a deep fringe round the bottom. +It is generally made of the bark of the cedar tree, which they prepare +as fine as hemp; though some of these garments are interwoven with +strips of the sea-otter skin, which give them the appearance of a fur on +one side. Others have stripes of red and yellow threads fancifully +introduced toward the borders, which have a very agreeable effect. The +men have no other covering than that which I have described, and they +unceremoniously lay it aside when they find it convenient. In addition +to this robe, the women wear a close fringe hanging down before them +about two feet in length, and half as wide. When they sit down they +draw this between their thighs. They wear their hair so short, that it +requires: little care or combing. The men have their's in plaits, and +being smeared with oil and red earth, instead of a comb they have a +small stick hanging by a string from one of the locks, which they employ +to alleviate any itching or irritation in the head. The colour of the +eye is grey with a tinge of red. They have all high cheek-bones, but +the women are more remarkable for that feature than the men. Their +houses, arms, and utensils I shall describe hereafter. + +I presented my friend with several articles, and also distributed some +among others of the natives who had been attentive to us. One of my +guides had been very serviceable in procuring canoes for us to proceed +on our expedition; he appeared also to be very desirous of giving these +people a favourable impression of us; and I was very much concerned that +he should leave me as he did, without giving me the least notice of his +departure, or receiving the presents which I had prepared for him, and he +so well deserved. At noon I had an observation which gave 52. 28. 11. +North latitude. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +JULY, 1793. + +At one in the afternoon we embarked, with our small baggage, in two +canoes, accompanied by seven of the natives, The stream was rapid, and +ran upwards of six miles an hour. We came to a weir, such as I have +already described, where the natives landed us, and shot over it without +taking a drop of water. They then received us on board again, and we +continued our voyage, passing many canoes on the river, some with people +in them, and others empty. We proceeded at a very great rate for about +two hours and a half, when we were informed that we must land, as the +village was only at a short distance. I had imagined that the Canadians +who accompanied me were the most expert canoe-men in the world, but they +are very inferior to these people, as they themselves acknowledged, in +conducting those vessels. + +Some of the Indians ran before us, to announce our approach, when we +took our bundles and followed. We had walked along a well-beaten path, +through a kind of coppice, when we were informed of the arrival of our +couriers at the houses, by the loud and confused talking of the +inhabitants. As we approached the edge of the wood, and were almost in +sight of the houses, the Indians who were before me made signs for me to +take the lead, and that they would follow. The noise and confusion of +the natives now seemed to encrease, and when we came in sight of the +village, we saw them running from house to house, some armed with bows +and arrows, others with spears, and many with axes, as if in a state of +great alarm, This very unpleasant and unexpected circumstance, I +attributed to our sudden arrival, and the very short notice of it which +had been given them. At all events, I had but one line of conduct to +pursue, which was to walk resolutely up to them, without manifesting any +signs of apprehension at their hostile appearance. This resolution +produced the desired effect, for as we approached the houses, the +greater part of the people laid down their weapons, and came forward to +meet us. I was, however, soon obliged to stop from the number of them +that surrounded me. I shook hands, as usual with such as were nearest +to me, when an elderly man broke through the crowd, and took me in his +arms; another then came, who turned him away without the least ceremony, +and paid me the same compliment. The latter was followed by a young +man, whom I understood to be his son. These embraces, which at first +rather surprised me, I soon found to be marks of regard and friendship. +The crowd pressed with so much violence and contention to get a view of +us, that we could not move in any direction. An opening was at length +made to allow a person to approach me, whom the old man made me +understand was another of his sons. I instantly stepped forward to meet +him, and presented my hand, whereupon he broke the string of a very +handsome robe of sea otter skin, which he had on, and covered me with +it. This was as flattering a reception as I could possibly receive, +especially as I considered him to be the eldest son of the chief. +Indeed, it appeared to me that we had been detained here for the purpose +of giving him time to bring the robe with which he had presented me. + +The chief now made signs for us to follow him, and he conducted us +through a narrow coppice, for several hundred yards, till we came to a +house built on the ground, which was of larger dimensions, and formed of +better materials than any I had hitherto seen; it was his residence. We +were no sooner arrived there, than he directed mats to be spread before +it, on which we were told to take our seats, when the men of the +village, who came to indulge their curiosity, were ordered to keep +behind us. In our front other mats were placed, where the chief and his +counsellors took their seats. In the intervening space, mats, which +were very clean, and of a much neater workmanship than those on which we +sat, were also spread, and a small roasted salmon placed before each of +us. When we had satisfied ourselves with the fish, one of the people +who came with us from the last village approached, with a kind of ladle +in one hand, containing oil, and in the other something that resembled +the inner rind of the cocoa-nut, but of a lighter colour, this he dipped +in the oil, and, having eat it, indicated by his gestures how palatable +he thought it. He then presented me with a small piece of it, which I +chose to taste in its dry state, though the oil was free from any +unpleasant smell. A square cake of this was next produced, when a man +took it to the water near the house, and having thoroughly soaked it, he +returned, and, after he had pulled it to pieces like oakum, put it into +a well-made trough, about three feet long, nine inches wide, and five +deep; he then plentifully sprinkled it with salmon oil, and manifested +by his own example that we were to eat of it. I just tasted it, and +found the oil perfectly sweet, without which the other ingredient would +have been very insipid. The chief partook of it with great avidity, +after it had received an additional quantity of oil. This dish is +considered by these people as a great delicacy, and on examination, I +discovered it to consist of the inner rind of the hemlock tree, taken +off early in summer, and put into a frame, which shapes it into cakes of +fifteen inches long, ten broad, and half an inch thick; and in this form +I should suppose it may be preserved for a great length of time. This +discovery satisfied me respecting the many hemlock trees which I had +observed stripped of their bark. + +In this situation we remained for upwards of three hours, and not one of +the curious natives left us during all that time, except a party of ten +or twelve of them, whom the chief ordered to go and catch fish, which +they did in great abundance, with dipping nets, at the foot of the Weir. + +At length we were relieved from the gazing crowd, and got a lodge +erected, and covered in for our reception during the night. I now +presented the young chief with a blanket, in return for the robe with +which he had favoured me, and several other articles, that appeared to +be very gratifying to him. I also presented some to his father, and +amongst them was a pair of scissors, whose use I explained to him, for +clipping his beard, which was of great length; and to that purpose he +immediately applied them. My distribution of similar articles was also +extended to others, who had been attentive to us. The communication, +however, between us was awkward and inconvenient, for it was carried on +entirely by signs, as there was not a person with me who was qualified +for the office of an interpreter. + +We were all of us very desirous to get some fresh salmon, that we might +dress them in our own way, but could not by any means obtain that +gratification, though there were thousands of that fish strung on cords, +which were fastened to stakes in the river. They were even averse to +our approaching the spot where they clean and prepare them for their own +eating. They had, indeed, taken our kettle from us, lest we should +employ it in getting water from the river; and they assigned as the +reason for this precaution, that the salmon dislike the smell of iron. +At the same time, they supplied us with wooden boxes, which were capable +of holding any fluid. Two of the men who went to fish, in a canoe +capable of containing ten people, returned with a full lading of salmon, +that weighed from six to forty pounds, though the far greater part of +them were under twenty. They immediately strung the whole of them, as I +have already mentioned, in the river. + +I now made the tour of the village, which consisted of four elevated +houses, and seven built on the ground, besides a considerable number of +other buildings or sheds, which are used only as kitchens, and places +for curing their fish. The former are constructed by fixing a certain +number of posts in the earth, on some of which are laid, and to others +are fastened, the supporters of the floor, at about twelve feet above +the surface of the ground; their length is from a hundred to a hundred +and twenty feet, and they are about forty in breadth. Along the centre +are built three, four, or five hearths, for the two-fold purpose of +giving warmth, and dressing their fish. The whole length of the +building on either side is divided by cedar planks, into partitions or +apartments of seven feet square, in the front of which there are boards, +about three feet wide, over which, though they are not immovably fixed, +the inmates of these recesses generally pass, when they go to rest. The +greater part of them are intended for that purpose, and such are covered +with boards, at the height of the wall of the house, which is about +seven or eight feet, and rest upon beams that stretch across the +building. On those also are placed the chests which contain their +provisions, utensils, and whatever they possess. The intermediate space +is sufficient for domestic purposes. On poles that run along the beams, +hang roasted fish, and the whole building is well covered with boards +and bark, except within a few inches of the ridge pole; where open +spaces are left on each side to let in light and emit the smoke. At the +end of the house that fronts the river, is a narrow scaffolding, which +is also ascended by a piece of timber, with steps cut in it; and at each +corner of this erection there are openings for the inhabitants to ease +nature. As it does not appear to be a custom among them to remove these +heaps of excremental filth, it may be supposed that the effluvia does +not annoy them. + +The houses which rest on the ground are built of the same materials, and +on the same plan. A sloping stage that rises to a cross piece of +timber, supported by two forks, joins also to the main building, for +those purposes which need not be repeated. + +When we were surrounded by the natives on our arrival, I counted +sixty-five men, and several of them may be supposed to have been absent; +I cannot, therefore, calculate the inhabitants of this village at less +than two hundred souls. + +The people who accompanied us hither, from the other village, had given +the chief a very particular account of everything they knew concerning +us: I was, therefore, requested to produce my astronomical instruments, +nor could I have any objection to afford them this satisfaction, as they +would necessarily add to our importance in their opinion. + +Near the house of the chief I observed several oblong squares, of about +twenty feet by eight. They were made of thick cedar boards, which were +joined with so much neatness, that I at first thought they were one +piece. They were painted with hieroglyphics, and figures of different +animals, and with a degree of correctness that was not to be expected +from such an uncultivated people. I could not learn the use of them, +but they appeared to be calculated for occasional acts of devotion or +sacrifice, which all these tribes perform at least twice in the year, at +the spring and fall. I was confirmed in this opinion by a large +building in the middle of the village, which I at first took for the +half finished frame of a house. The groundplot of it was fifty feet by +forty-five; each end is formed by four stout posts, fixed +perpendicularly in the ground. The corner ones are plain, and support a +beam of the whole length, having three intermediate props on each side, +but of a larger size, and eight or nine feet in height. The two centre +posts, at each end, are two feet and a half in diameter, and carved into +human figures, supporting two ridge poles on their heads, at twelve feet +from the ground. The figures at the upper part of this square represent +two persons, with their hands upon their knees, as if they supported the +weight with pain and difficulty; the others opposite to them stand at +their ease, with their hands resting on their hips. In the area of the +building there were the remains of several fires. The posts, poles, and +figures, were painted red and black; but the sculpture of these people +is superior to their painting. + + +_Friday, 19_--Soon after I retired to rest last night, the chief paid +me a visit to insist on my going to his bed-companion, and taking my +place himself; but, notwithstanding his repeated entreaties, I resisted +this offering of his hospitality. + +At an early hour this morning, I was again visited by the chief, in +company with his son. The former complained of a pain in his breast; to +relieve his suffering, I gave him a few drops of Turlington's Balsam on +a piece of sugar; and I was rather surprised to see him take it without +the least hesitation. When he had taken my medicine, he requested me to +follow him, and conducted me to a shed, where several people were +assembled round a sick man, who was another of his sons. They +immediately uncovered him, and showed me a violent ulcer in the small of +his back, in the foulest state that can be imagined. One of his knees +was also afflicted in the same manner. This unhappy man was reduced to +a skeleton, and, from his appearance, was drawing near to an end of his +pains. They requested that I would touch him, and his father was very +urgent with me to administer medicine; but he was in such a dangerous +state, that I thought it prudent to yield no further to the +importunities than to give the sick man a few drops of Turlington's +Balsam in some water. I therefore left them, but was soon called back +by the loud lamentations of the women, and was rather apprehensive that +some inconvenience might result from my compliance with the chief's +request. On my return I found the native physicians busy in practising +their skill and art on the patient. They blew on him, and then +whistled; at times they pressed their extended fingers, with all their +strength, on his stomach; they also put their forefingers doubled into +his mouth, and spouted water from their own with great violence into his +face. To support these operations, the wretched sufferer was held up in +a sitting posture; and when they were concluded, he was laid down and +covered with a new robe made of the skins of the lynx. I had observed +that his belly and breast were covered with scars, and I understood that +they were caused by a custom prevalent among them, of applying pieces of +lighted touch-wood to their flesh, in order to relieve pain or +demonstrate their courage. He was now placed on a broad plank, and +carried by six men into the woods, where I was invited to accompany +them. I could not conjecture what would be the end of this ceremony, +particularly as I saw one man carry fire, another an axe, and a third +dry wood. I was indeed, disposed to suspect that, as it was their +custom to burn the dead, they intended to relieve the poor man from his +pain, and perform the last sad duty of surviving affection. When they +advanced a short distance into the woods, they laid him upon a clear +spot, and kindled a fire against his back, when the physician began to +scarify the ulcer with a very blunt instrument, the cruel pain of which +operation the patient bore with incredible resolution. The scene +afflicted me, and I left it. + +On my return to our lodge, I observed before the door of the chief's +residence, four heaps of salmon, each of which consisted of between +three and four hundred fish. Sixteen women were employed in cleaning +and preparing them. They first separate the head from the body, the +former of which they boil; they then cut the latter down the back on +each side of the bone, leaving one third of the fish adhering to it, and +afterwards take out the guts. The bone is roasted for immediate use, +and the other parts are dressed in the same manner, but with more +attention, for future provision. While they are before the fire, +troughs are placed under them to receive the oil. The roes are also +carefully preserved, and form a favourite article of their food. + +After I had observed these culinary preparations, I paid a visit to the +chief, who presented me with a roasted salmon; he then opened one of his +chests, and took out of it a garment of blue cloth, decorated with brass +buttons; and another of flowered cotton, which I supposed were Spanish; +it had been trimmed with leather fringe, after the fashion of their own +cloaks. Copper and brass are in great estimation among them, and of the +former they have great plenty: they point their arrows and spears with +it, and work it up into personal ornaments; such as collars, ear-rings, +and bracelets, which they wear on their wrists, arms, and legs. I +presume they find it the most advantageous articles of trade with the +more inland tribes. They also abound in iron. I saw some of their +twisted collars of that metal which weighed upwards of twelve pounds. +It is generally beat in bars of fourteen inches in length, and one inch +three quarters wide. The brass is in thin squares: their copper is in +larger pieces, and some of it appeared to be old stills cut up. They +have various trinkets; but their manufactured iron consists only of +poignards and daggers. Some of the former have very neat handles, with +a silver coin of a quarter or eighth of a dollar fixed on the end of +them.--The blades of the latter are from ten to twelve inches in +length, and about four inches broad at the top, from which they +gradually lessen to a point. + +When I produced my instruments to take an altitude, I was desired not to +make use of them. I could not then discover the cause of this request, +but I experienced the good effect of the apprehension, which they +occasioned, as it was very effectual in hastening my departure. I had +applied several times to the chief to prepare canoes and people to take +me and my party to the sea, but very little attention had been paid to +my application till noon; when I was informed that a canoe was properly +equipped for my voyage, and that the young chief would accompany me. I +now discovered that they had entertained no personal fear of the +instruments, but were apprehensive that the operation of them might +frighten the salmon from that part of the river. The observation taken +in this village gave me 52. 25. 52. North latitude. + +In compliance with the chief's request I desired my people to take their +bundles, and lay them down on the bank of the river. In the mean time I +went to take the dimensions of his large canoe, in which, it was +signified to me, that about ten winters ago he went a considerable +distance toward the mid-day sun, with forty of his people, when he saw +two large vessels full of such men as myself, by whom he was kindly +received: they were, he said, the first white people he had seen. They +were probably the ships commanded by Captain Cook. This canoe was built +of cedar, was forty-five feet long, four feet wide, and three feet and a +half in depth. It was painted black and decorated with white figures of +fish of different kinds. The gunwale, fore and aft, was inlaid with +the teeth of the sea-otter.[1] + +When I returned to the river, the natives who were to accompany us and +my people, were already in the canoe. The latter, however, informed me, +that one of our axes was missing. I immediately applied to the chief, +and requested its restoration; but he would not understand me till I sat +myself down on a stone, with my arms in a state of preparation, and made +it appear to him that I should not depart till the stolen article was +restored. The village was immediately in a state of uproar, and some +danger was apprehended from the confusion that prevailed in it. The +axe, however, which had been hidden under the chief's canoe, was soon +returned. Though this instrument was not, in itself, of sufficient +value to justify a dispute with these people, I apprehended that the +suffering them to keep it, after we had declared its loss, might have +occasioned the loss of every thing we carried with us, and of our lives +also. My people were dissatisfied with me at the moment; but I thought +myself right then, and, I think now, that the circumstances in which we +were involved, justified the measure which I adopted. + +[1] As Captain Cook has mentioned, that the people of the sea-coast +adorned their canoes with human teeth, I was more particular in my +inquiries; the result of which was, the most satisfactory proof that he +was mistaken; but his mistake arose from the very great resemblance +there is between human teeth and those of the sea-otter. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + +JULY, 1793. + +_Saturday, 18._--At one in the afternoon we renewed our voyage in a +large canoe with four of the natives. We found the river almost one +continued rapid, and in half an hour we came to a house, where, however, +we did not land, though invited by the inhabitants. In about an hour we +arrived at two houses, where we were, in some degree, obliged to go on +shore, as we were informed that the owner of them was a person of +consideration. He indeed received and regaled us in the same manner as +at the last village; and to increase his consequence, he produced many +European articles, and amongst them were at least forty pounds weight of +old copper stills. We made our stay as short as possible, and our host +embarked with us. In a very short time we were carried by the rapidity +of the current to another house of very large dimensions, which was +partitioned into different apartments, and whose doors were on the side. +The inhabitants received us with great kindness; but instead of fish, +they placed a long, clean, and well made trough before us full of +berries. In addition to those which we had already seen, there were +some black, that were larger than the hurtleberry, and of a richer +flavour; others white, which resembled the blackberry in everything but +colour. Here we saw a woman with two pieces of copper in her under lip, +as described by Captain Cook. I continued my usual practice of making +these people presents in return for their friendly reception and +entertainment. + +[Transcriber's Note: By context, the date above should read _Friday, 19._] + +The navigation of the river now became more difficult, from the numerous +channels into which it was divided, without any sensible diminution in +the velocity of its current. We soon reached another house of the +common size, where we were well received; but whether our guides had +informed them that we were not in want of anything, or that they were +deficient in inclination, or perhaps the means, of being hospitable to +us, they did not offer us any refreshment. They were in a state of busy +preparation. Some of the women were employed in beating and preparing +the inner rind of the cedar bark, to which they gave the appearance of +flax. Others were spinning with a distaff and spindle. One of them was +weaving a robe of it, intermixed with stripes of the sea-otter skin, on +a frame of adequate contrivance that was placed against the side of the +house. The men were fishing on the river with drag-nets between two +canoes. These nets are forced by poles to the bottom, the current +driving them before it; by which means the salmon coming up the river +are intercepted, and give notice of their being taken by the struggles +they make in the bag or sleeve of the net. There are no weirs in this +part of the river, as I suppose, from the numerous channels into which +it is divided. The machines, therefore, are placed along the banks, and +consequently these people are not so well supplied with fish as the +village which has been already described, nor do they appear to possess +the same industry. The inhabitants of the last house accompanied us in +a large canoe. They recommended us to leave ours here, as the next +village was but at a small distance from us, and the water more rapid +than that which we had passed. They informed us also, that we were +approaching a cascade. I directed them to shoot it, and proceeded +myself to the foot thereof, where I re-embarked, and we went on with +great velocity, till we came to a fall, where we left our canoe, and +carried our luggage along a road through a wood for some hundred yards, +when we came to a village, consisting of six very large houses, erected +on pallisades, rising twenty-five feet from the ground, which differed +in no one circumstance from those already described, but the height of +their elevation. They contained only four men and their families. The +rest of the inhabitants were with us and in the small houses which we +passed higher up the river.[1] These people do not seem to enjoy the +abundance of their neighbours, as the men who returned from fishing had +no more than five salmon; they refused to sell one of them, but gave me +one roasted of a very indifferent kind. In the houses there were +several chests or boxes containing different articles that belonged to +the people whom we had lately passed. If I were to judge by the heaps +of filth beneath these buildings, they must have been erected at a more +distant period than any which we had passed. From these houses I could +perceive the termination of the river, and its discharge into a narrow +arm of the sea. + +As it was now half past six in the evening, and the weather cloudy, I +determined to remain here for the night, and for that purpose we +possessed ourselves of one of the unoccupied houses. The remains of our +last meal, which we brought with us, served for our supper, as we could +not procure a single fish from the natives. The course of the river is +about West, and the distance from the great village upwards of +thirty-six miles.--There we had lost our dog, a circumstance of no +small regret to me. + + +_Saturday, 20._--We rose at a very early hour this morning, when I +proposed to the Indians to run down our canoe, or procure another at +this place. To both these proposals they turned a deaf ear, as they +imagined that I should be satisfied with having come in sight of the +sea. Two of them peremptorily refused to proceed; but the other two +having consented to continue with us, we obtained a larger canoe than +our former one, and though it was in a leaky state we were glad to +possess it. + +At about eight we got out of the river, which discharges itself by +various channels into an arm of the sea. The tide was out, and had left +a large space covered with sea-weed. The surrounding hills were +involved in fog. The wind was at West, which was ahead of us, and very +strong; the bay appearing to be from one to three miles in breadth. As +we advanced along the land we saw a great number of sea-otters. We +fired several shots at them, but without any success from the rapidity +with which they plunge under the water. We also saw many small +porpoises or divers. The white-headed eagle, which is common in the +interior parts; some small gulls, a dark bird which is inferior in size +to the gull, and a few small ducks, were all the birds which presented +themselves to our view. + +At two in the afternoon the swell was so high, and the wind, which was +against us, so boisterous, that we could not proceed with our leaky +vessel, we therefore landed in a small cove on the right side of the +bay. Opposite to us appeared another small bay, in the mouth of which +is an island, and where, according to the information of the Indians, a +river discharges itself that abounds in salmon. + +Our young Indians now discovered a very evident disposition to leave us; +and, in the evening, one of them made his escape. Mr. Mackay, however, +with the other, pursued and brought him back; but as it was by no means +necessary to detain him, particularly as provisions did not abound with +us, I gave him a small portion, with a pair of shoes, which were +necessary for his journey, and a silk handkerchief, telling him at the +same time, that he might go and inform his friends, that we should also +return in three nights. He accordingly left us, and his companion, the +young chief, went with him. + +When we landed, the tide was going out, and at a quarter past four it +was ebb, the water having fallen in that short period eleven feet and an +half. Since we left the river, not a quarter of an hour had passed in +which we did not see porpoises and sea-otters. Soon after ten it was +high water, and rendered it necessary that our baggage should be shifted +several times, though not till some of the things had been wetted. + +We were now reduced to the necessity of looking out for fresh water, +with which we were plentifully supplied by the rills that ran down from +the mountains. + +When it was dark the young chief returned to us, bearing a large +porcupine on his back. He first cut the animal open, and having +disencumbered it of the entrails, threw them into the sea; he then +singed its skin, and boiled it in separate pieces, as our kettle was not +sufficiently capacious to contain the whole; nor did he go to rest, till +with the assistance of two of my people who happened to be awake, every +morsel of it was devoured. + +I had flattered myself with the hope of getting a distance of the moon +and stars, but the cloudy weather continually disappointed me, and I +began to fear that I should fail in this important object; particularly +as our provisions were at a very low ebb, and we had, as yet, no reason +to expect any assistance from the natives. Our stock was, at this time, +reduced to twenty pounds weight of pemmican, fifteen pounds of rice, and +six pounds of flour, among ten half-starved men, in a leaky vessel, and +on a barbarous coast. Our course from the river was about West-South-West, +distance ten miles. + + +_Sunday, 21._--At forty minutes past four this morning it was low +water, which made fifteen feet of perpendicular height below the +high-water mark of last night. Mr. Mackay collected a quantity of small +muscles which we boiled. Our people did not partake of this regale, as +they are wholly unacquainted with sea shell-fish. Our young chief being +missing, we imagined that he had taken his flight, but, as we were +preparing to depart, he fortunately made his appearance from the woods, +where he had been to take his rest after his feast of last night. + +At six we were upon the water, when we cleared the small bay, which we +named Porcupine Cove, and steered West-South-West for seven miles, we +then opened a channel about two miles and a half wide at +South-South-West, and had a view of ten or twelve miles into it. + +As I could not ascertain the distance from the open sea, and being +uncertain whether we were in a bay or among inlets and channels of +islands, I confined my search to a proper place for taking an +observation. We steered, therefore, along the land on the left, +West-North-West a mile and a half; then North-West one fourth of a mile, +and North three miles to an island the land continuing to run +North-North-West, then along the island, South-South-West half a mile, +West a mile and a half, and from thence directly across to the land on +the left, (where I had an altitude,) South-West three miles.[2] From +this position a channel, of which the island we left appeared to make a +check, bears North by East. + +Under the land we met with three canoes, with fifteen men in them, and +laden with their moveables, as if proceeding to a new situation, or +returning to a former one. They manifested no kind of mistrust or fear +of us, but entered into conversation with our young man, as I supposed, +to obtain some information concerning us. It did not appear that they +were the same people as those we had lately seen, as they spoke the +language of our young chief, with a different accent. They then +examined everything we had in our canoe, with an air of indifference and +disdain. One of them in particular made me understand, with an air of +insolence, that a large canoe had lately been in this bay, with people +in her like me, and that one of them, whom he called _Macubah_ had fired +on him and his friends, and that _Bensins_ had struck him on the back, +with the flat part of his sword. He also mentioned another name, the +articulation of which I could not determine. At the same time he +illustrated these circumstances by the assistance of my gun and sword; +and I do not doubt but he well deserved the treatment which he +described. He also produced several European articles, which could +not have been long in his possession. From his conduct and appearance, +I wished very much to be rid of him, and flattered myself that he would +prosecute his voyage, which appeared to be in an opposite direction to +our course. + +However, when I prepared to part from them, they turned their canoes +about, and persuaded my young man to leave me, which I could not +prevent. + +We coasted along the land[3] at about West-South-West for six miles, and +met a canoe with two boys in it, who were dispatched to summon the +people on that part of the coast to join them. The troublesome fellow +now forced himself into my canoe, and pointed out a narrow channel on +the opposite shore, that led to his village, and requested us to steer +towards it, which I accordingly ordered. His importunities now became +very irksome, and he wanted to see everything we had, particularly my +instruments, concerning which he must have received information from my +young man. He asked for my hat, my handkerchief, and in short, +everything that he saw about me. At the same time he frequently +repeated the unpleasant intelligence that he had been shot at by people +of my colour. At some distance from the land a channel opened to us, at +South-West by West, and pointing that way, he made me understand that +_Macubah_ came there with his large canoe. When we were in mid-channel, +I perceived some sheds, or the remains of old buildings on the shore; +and as, from that circumstance I thought it probable that some Europeans +might have been there I directed my steersman to make for that spot. +The traverse is upwards of three miles North-West. + +We landed, and found the ruins of a village, in a situation calculated +for defence. The place itself was overgrown with weeds, and in the +centre of the houses there was a temple, of the same form and +construction as that which I described at the large village. We were +soon followed by ten canoes, each of which contained from three to six +men. They informed us that we were expected at the village, where we +should see many of them. From their general deportment I was very +apprehensive that some hostile design was meditated against us, and for +the first time I acknowledged my apprehensions to my people. I +accordingly desired them to be very much upon their guard, and to be +prepared if any violence was offered to defend themselves to the last. + +We had no sooner landed, than we took possession of a rock, where there +was not space for more than twice our number, and, which admitted of our +defending ourselves with advantage, in case we should be attacked. The +people in the three first canoes, were the most troublesome, but, after +doing their utmost to irritate us, they went away. + +They were, however, no sooner gone, than a hat, a handkerchief, and +several other articles, were missing. The rest of our visitors +continued their pressing invitations to accompany them to their village, +but finding our resolution to decline them was not to be shaken, they, +about sun-set relieved us from all further importunities, by their +departure. + +Another canoe, however, soon arrived, with seven stout, well-looking +men. They brought a box, which contained a very fine sea-otter skin, +and a goat skin that was beautifully white. For the former they +demanded my hanger, which, as may well be supposed, could not be spared +in our present situation, and they actually refused to take a yard and a +half of common broad cloth, with some other articles, for the skin, +which proves the unreflecting improvidence of our European traders. The +goat-skin was so bulky that I did not offer to purchase it. These men +also told me that _Macubah_ had been there, and left his ship behind a +point of land in the channel, South-West from us; from whence he had +come to their village in boats, which these people represented by +imitating our manner of rowing. When I offered them what they did not +choose to accept for the otter-skin, they shook their heads, and very +distinctly answered, "No, no." And to mark their refusal of anything we +asked from them, they emphatically employed the same British +monosyllable. In one of the canoes which had left us, there was a seal, +that I wished to purchase, but could not persuade the natives to part +with it. They had also a fish, which I now saw for the first time. It +was about eighteen inches in length, of the shape and appearance of a +trout, with strong sharp teeth. We saw great numbers of the animals +which we had taken for sea-otters, but I was new disposed to think that +a great part of them, at least, must have been seals. The natives +having left us, we made a fire to warm ourselves, and as for supper, +there was but little of that, for our whole daily allowance did not +amount to what was sufficient for a single meal. The weather was clear +throughout the day, which was succeeded by a fine moon-light night. I +directed the people to keep watch by two in turn, and laid myself down +on my cloak. + + +_Monday, 22._---This morning the weather was clear and pleasant; nor had +anything occurred to disturb us throughout the night. One solitary +Indian, indeed, came to us with about half a pound of boiled seal's +flesh, and the head of a small salmon, for which he asked a +handkerchief, but afterwards accepted a few beads. As this man came +alone, I concluded that no general plan had been formed among the +natives to annoy us, but this opinion did not altogether calm the +apprehensions of my people. + +Soon after eight in the morning, I took five altitudes for time, and the +mean of them was 36 deg. 48' at six in the afternoon, 58. 34. time, by the +watch, which makes the achrometer slow apparent time 1h 21m 44s. + +Two canoes now arrived from the same quarter as the rest, with several +men, and our young Indian along with them. They brought a very few +small sea-otter skins, out of season, with some pieces of raw seal's +flesh. The former were of no value, but hunger compelled some of my +people to take the latter, at an extravagant price. Mr. Mackay lighted +a bit of touch-wood with a burning-glass, in the cover of his +tobacco-box, which so surprised the natives, that they exchanged the +best of their otter skins for it. The young man was now very anxious to +per suede our people to depart, as the natives, he said, were as +numerous as musquitoes, and of very malignant character. This +information produced some very earnest remonstrances to me to hasten our +departure, but as I was determined not to leave this place, except I was +absolutely compelled to it, till I had ascertained its situation, these +solicitations were not repeated. + +While I was taking a meridian, two canoes, of a larger size, and well +manned, appeared from the main South-West channel. They seemed to be +the fore-runners of others, who were coming to co-operate with the +people of the village, in consequence of the message sent by the two +boys, which has been already mentioned; and our young Indian, who +understood them, renewed his entreaties for our departure, as they would +soon come to shoot their arrows, and hurl their spears at us. In +relating our dangers his agitation was so violent, that he foamed at the +mouth. Though I was not altogether free from apprehensions on the +occasion, it was necessary for me disguise them, as my people were panic +struck, and some of them asked if it was my determination to remain +there to be sacrificed? My reply was the same as their former +importunities had received, that I would not stir till I had +accomplished my object; at the same time, to humour their fears, I +consented that they should put everything into the canoe, that we might +be in a state of preparation to depart. The two canoes now approached +the shore, and in a short time, five men, with their families, landed +very quietly from them. My instruments being exposed, they examined +them with much apparent admiration and astonishment. My altitude, by an +artificial horizon, gave 52 deg. 21' 33"; that by the natural horizon was +52 deg. 20' 48" North latitude.[4] + +These Indians were of a different tribe from those which I had already +seen, as our guide did not understand their language. I now mixed up +some vermilion in melted grease, and inscribed, in large characters, on +the South-East face of the rock on which we had slept last night, this +brief memorial--"Alexander Mackenzie, from Canada, by land, the +twenty-second of July, one thousand seven hundred and ninety-three." + +As I thought that we were too near the village, I consented to leave +this place, and accordingly proceeded North-East three miles, when we +landed on a point, in a small cove, where we should not be readily seen, +and could not be attacked except in our front. + +Among other articles that had been stolen from us, at our last station, +was a sounding-line, which I intended to have employed in this bay, though +I should not probably have found the bottom, at any distance from the +shore, as the appearance both of the water and land indicated a great +depth. The latter displayed a solid rock, rising as it appeared to me, +from three to seven hundred feet above high water mark. Where any soil +was scattered about, there were cedars, spruce-firs, white birch, and +other trees of large growth. From its precipices issued streams of fine +water, as cold as ice. + +The two canoes which we had left at our last station, followed us +hither, and when they were preparing to depart, our young chief embarked +with them. I was determined, however, to prevent his escape, and +compelled him, by animal force, to come on shore, for I thought it much +better to incur his displeasure than to suffer him to expose himself to +any untoward accident among strangers, or to return to his father before +us. The men in the canoe made signs for him to go over the hill, and +that they would take him on board at the other side of it. As I was +necessarily engaged in other matters, I desired my people to take care +that he should not run away; but they peremptorily refused to be +employed in keeping him against his will. I was, therefore, reduced to +the necessity of watching him myself. + +I took five altitudes, and the mean of them was 29. 23. 48, at +3. 5. 53. in the afternoon, by the watch, which makes it slow apparent +time. + + 1h 22m 38s + In the forenoon} 1 21 44 2 44 22 + it was } + ---------- ---------- + Mean of both 1 22 11 + + Difference of nine hours go- } 8 + ing of the time-piece slow } + 1 22 19 + +I observed an emersion of Jupiter's third satellite, which gave 8 deg. 32' +21. difference of longitude. I then observed an emersion of Jupiter's +first satellite, which gave 8 deg. 31' 48. The mean of these observations +is 8 deg. 32' 2. which is equal to 128. 2. West of Greenwich. + +I had now determined my situation, which is the most fortunate +circumstance of my long, painful, and perilous journey, as a few cloudy +days would have prevented me from ascertaining the final longitude of +it.[5] + +At twelve it was high water, but the tide did not come within a foot and +an half of the high water mark of last night. As soon as I had +completed my observations, we left this place: it was then ten o'clock +in the afternoon. We returned the same way that we came, and though the +tide was running out very strong, by keeping close in with the rocks, we +proceeded at a considerable rate, as my people were very anxious to get +out of the reach of the inhabitants of this coast. + + +_Tuesday, 23._--During our course we saw several fires on the land to +the Southward, and after the day dawned, their smokes were visible. At +half past four this morning we arrived at our encampment of the night of +the 21st, which had been named Porcupine Cove. The tide was out, and +considerably lower than we found it when we were here before; the +high-water mark being above the place where we had made our fire. This +fluctuation must be occasioned by the action of the wind upon the water, +in those narrow channels. + +As we continued onwards, towards the river, we saw a canoe, well manned, +which at first made from us with great expedition, but afterwards +waited, as if to reconnoitre us; however, it kept out of our way, and +allowed us to pass. The tide being much lower than when we were here +before, we were under the necessity of landing a mile below the village. +We observed that stakes were fixed in the ground along the bay, and in +some places machines were fastened to them, as I afterwards learned, to +intercept the seals and otters. These works are very extensive, and +must have been erected with no common labour. The only bird we saw +to-day was the white headed eagle.[6] + +Our guide directed us to draw the canoe out of the reach of the tide and +to leave it. He would not wait, however, till this operation was +performed, and I did not wish to let him go alone. I therefore followed +him through a bad road encumbered with under-wood. When we had quitted +the wood, and were in sight of the houses, the young man being about +fifteen or twenty paces before me, I was surprised to see two men +running down towards me from one of the houses, with daggers in their +hands and fury in their aspect. From their hostile appearance, I could +not doubt of their purpose. I therefore stopped short, threw down my +cloak, and put myself in a posture of defence, with my gun presented +towards them. Fortunately for me, they knew the effect of firearms, and +instantly dropped their daggers, which were fastened by a string to +their wrists, and had before been held in a menacing attitude. I let my +gun also fall into my left hand, and drew my hanger. Several others +soon joined them, who were armed in the same manner; and among them I +recognised the man whom I have already mentioned as being so troublesome +to us, and who now repeated the names of Macuba and Benzins, signifying +at the same time by his action, as on a former occasion, that he had +been shot at by them. Until I saw him my mind was undisturbed; but the +moment he appeared, conceiving that he was the cause of my present +perilous situation, my resentment predominated, and if he had come +within my reach, I verily believe, that I should have terminated his +insolence forever. + +The rest now approached so near, that one of them contrived to get +behind me, and grasped me in his arms. I soon disengaged myself from +him; and, that he did not avail himself of the opportunity which he had +of plunging his dagger into me, I cannot conjecture. They certainly +might have overpowered me, and though I should probably have killed one +or two of them, I must have fallen at last. + +One of my people now came out of the wood. On his appearance they +instantly took to flight, and with the utmost speed sought shelter in +the houses from whence they had issued. It was, however, upwards of ten +minutes before all my people joined me; and as they came one after the +other, these people might have successively dispatched every one of us. +If they had killed me, in the first instance, this consequence would +certainly have followed, and not one of us would have returned home to +tell the horrid fate of his companions. + +After having stated the danger I had encountered, I told my people that +I was determined to make these natives feel the impropriety of their +conduct toward us, and compel them to return my hat and cloak which they +had taken in the scuffle, as well as the articles previously purloined +from us, for most of the men who were in the three canoes that we first +saw, were now in the village. I therefore told my men to prime their +pieces afresh, and prepare themselves for an active use of them, if the +occasion should require it. We now drew up before the house, and made +signs for some one to come down to us. At length our young chief +appeared, and told us that the men belonging to the canoes had not only +informed his friends, that we had treated him very ill, but that we had +killed four of their companions whom he had met in the bay. When I had +explained to them as well as it was in my power, the falsehood of such a +story, I insisted on the restoration of everything that had been taken +from us, as well as a necessary supply of fish, as the conditions of my +departure; accordingly the things were restored, and a few dried fish +along with them. A reconciliation now took place, but our guide or +young chief was so much terrified that he would remain no longer with +us, and requested us to follow with his father's canoe, or mischief +would follow. I determined, however, before my departure, to take an +observation, and at noon got a meridian altitude, making this place, +which I named Rascal's Village, 52. 23. 43. North latitude. + +On my informing the natives that we wanted something more to eat, they +brought us two salmon; and when we signified that we had no poles to set +the canoe against the current, they were furnished with equal alacrity, +so anxious were they for our departure. I paid, however, for everything +which we had received, and did not forget the loan of the canoe. + +[1] Mr. Johnstone came to these houses the first day of the preceding +month. + +[2] The Cape or Point Menzies of Vancouver. + +[3] Named by Vancouver King's Island. + +[4] This I found to be the cheek of Vancouver's Cascade Canal. + +[5] Mr. Meares was undoubtedly wrong in the idea, so earnestly insisted +on by him, in his voyage, that there was was North-West practicable +passage to the Southward of sixty-nine degrees and an half of latitude, +as I flatter myself has been proved by my former voyage. Nor can I +refrain from expressing my surprise at his assertion, that there was an +inland sea or archipelago of great extent between the islands of Nootka +and the main, about the latitude where I was at this time. Indeed I +have been informed that Captain Grey, who commanded an American vessel, +and on whose authority he ventured this opinion, denies that he had +given Mr. Meares any such information. Besides, the contrary is +indubitably proved by Captain Vancouver's survey, from which no appeal +can be made. + +[6] This bay was now named Mackenzie's Outlet. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + +JULY, 1793. + +The current of the river was so strong, that I should have complied with +the wishes of my people, and gone by land, but one of my Indians was so +weak, that it was impossible for him to perform the journey. He had +been ill some time; and, indeed, we had been all of us more or less +afflicted with colds on the sea coast. Four of the people therefore set +of with the canoe, and it employed them an hour to get half a mile. In +the mean time the native, who has been already mentioned as having +treated us with so much insolence, and four of his companions, went up +the river in a canoe, which they had above the rapid, with as many boxes +as men in her. This circumstance was the cause of fresh alarm, as it +was generally concluded that they would produce the same mischief and +danger in the villages above, as they had in that below. Nor was it +forgotten that the young chief had left us in a manner which would not +be interpreted in our favour by his father and friends. + +At length the canoe arrived, and the people declared in the most +unreserved terms, that they would proceed no further in her; but when +they were made acquainted with the circumstances which have just been +described, their violence increased, and the greater part of the men +announced their determination to attempt the mountains, and endeavour, +by passing over them, to gain the road by which we came to the first +village. So resolved were they to pursue this plan, that they threw +everything which they had into the river, except their blankets. I was +all this time sitting patiently on a stone, and indulging the hope that, +when their frantic terror had subsided, their returning reason would +have disposed them to perceive the rashness of their project; but when I +observed that they persisted in it, I no longer remained a silent +listener to their passionate declarations, but proceeded to employ such +arguments as I trusted would turn them from their senseless and +impracticable purpose. After reproving my young Indian in very severe +terms, for encouraging the rest to follow their mad design of passing +the mountains, I addressed myself generally to them, stating the +difficulty of ascending the mountains, the eternal snows with which they +were covered, our small stock of provisions, which two days would +exhaust, and the consequent probability that we should perish with cold +and hunger. I urged the folly of being affected by the alarm of danger +which might not exist, and if it did, I encouraged them with the means +we possessed of surmounting it. Nor did I forget to urge the inhumanity +and injustice of leaving the poor sick Indian to languish and die. I +also added, that as my particular object had been accomplished, I had +now no other but our common safety; that the sole wish of my heart was +to employ the best means in my power, and to pursue the best method +which my understanding could suggest, to secure them and myself from +every danger that might impede our return. + +My steersman, who had been with me for five years in that capacity, +instantly replied that he was ready to follow me wherever I should go, +but that he would never again enter that canoe, as he had solemnly sworn +he would not, while he was in the rapid. His example was followed by +all the rest, except two, who embarked with Mr. Mackay,[1] myself, and +the sick Indian. The current, however, was so strong, that we dragged +up the greatest part of the way, by the branches of trees. Our +progress, as may be imagined, was very tedious, and attended with +uncommon labour; the party who went by land being continually obliged to +wait for us. Mr. Mackay's gun was carried out of the canoe and lost, at +a time when we appeared to stand in very great need of it, as two +canoes, with sixteen or eighteen men, were coming down the stream; and +the apprehensions which they occasioned did not subside till they shot +by us with great rapidity. + +At length we came in sight of the house, when we saw our young Indian +with six others, in a canoe coming to meet us. This was a very +encouraging circumstance, as it satisfied us that the natives who had +preceded, and whose malignant designs we had every reason to suspect, +had not been able to prejudice the people against us. We, therefore, +landed at the house, where we were received in a friendly manner, and +having procured some fish, we proceeded on our journey. + +It was almost dark when we arrived at the next house, and the first +persons who presented themselves to our observation were the turbulent +Indian and his four companions. They were not very agreeable objects; +but we were nevertheless well received by the inhabitants, who presented +us with fish and berries. The Indians who had caused us so much alarm, +we now discovered to be inhabitants of the islands, and traders in +various articles, such as cedar-bark, prepared to be wove into mats, +fish-spawn, copper, iron, and beads, the latter of which they get on +their own coast. For these they receive in exchange roasted salmon, +hemlock bark cakes, and the other kind made of salmon roes, sorrel, and +bitter berries. Having procured as much fish as would serve us for our +supper, and the meals of the next day, all my people went to rest except +one, with whom I kept the first watch. + + +_Wednesday, 24._--After twelve last night, I called up Mr. Mackay, and +one of the men, to relieve us, but as a general tranquillity appeared to +prevail in the place, I recommended them to return to their rest. I was +the first awake in the morning, and sent Mr. Mackay to see if our canoe +remained where we left it; but he returned to inform me that the +Islanders had loaded it with their articles of traffic, and were ready +to depart. On this intelligence I hurried to the water side, and +seizing the canoe by the stem, I should certainly have overset it, and +turned the three men that were in it, with all their merchandise, into +the river, had not one of the people of the house, who had been very +kind to us, informed me, that this was their own canoe, and that my +guide had gone off with ours. At the same moment the other two Indians +who belonged to the party, jumped nimbly into it, and pushed off with +all the haste and hurry that their fears may be supposed to dictate. + +We now found ourselves once more without a guide or a canoe. We were, +however, so fortunate as to engage, without much difficulty, two of +these people to accompany us; as, from the strength of the current, it +would not have been possible for us to have proceeded by water without +their assistance. As the house was upon an island, we ferried over the +pedestrian party to the main bank of the river and continued our course +till our conductors came to their fishing ground, when they proposed to +land us, and our small portion of baggage; but as our companions were on +the opposite shore, we could not acquiesce, and after some time +persuaded them to proceed further with us. Soon after we met the chief +who had regaled us in our voyage down the river. He was seining between +two canoes, and had taken a considerable quantity of salmon. He took us +on board with him, and proceeded upwards with great expedition. These +people are surprisingly skilful and active in setting against a strong +current. In the roughest part they almost filled the canoe with water, +by way of a sportive alarm to us. + +We landed at the house of the chief, and he immediately placed a fish +before me. Our people now appeared on the opposite bank, when a canoe +was sent for them. As soon as they had made their meal of fish, they +proceeded on their route, and we followed them; the chief and one of the +natives having undertaken to conduct us. + +At five in the afternoon we came to two houses, which we had not seen in +going down. They were upon an island, and I was obliged to send for the +walking party, as our conductors, from the lateness of the hour, refused +to proceed any further with us till the next day. One of our men, being +at a small distance before the others, had been attacked by a female +bear with two cubs, but another of them arrived to his rescue, and shot +her. Their fears probably prevented them from killing the two young +ones. They brought a part of the meat, but it was very indifferent. We +were informed, that our former guide, or young chief, had passed this +place, at a very early hour of the morning, on foot. + +These people take plenty of another fish, besides salmon, which weigh +from fifteen to forty pounds. This fish is broader than the salmon, of +a greyish colour, and with a hunch on its back: the flesh is white, but +neither rich nor well flavoured. Its jaw and teeth are like those of a +dog, and the latter are larger and stronger than any I had ever seen in +a fish of equal size: those in front bend inwards, like the claws of a +bird of prey. It delights in shallow water, and its native name is +Dilly. + +We received as many fish and berries from these people as completely +satisfied our appetites. The latter excelled any of the kind that we +had seen. I saw also, three kinds of gooseberries, which, as we passed +through the woods, we found in great abundance. + + +_Thursday, 25._--I arose before the sun, and the weather was very +fine. The men who were to accompany us went to visit their machines, +and brought back plenty of fish, which they strung on a rope, and left +them in the river. We now embarked thirteen in a canoe, and landed my +men on the South bank, as it would have been impracticable to have +stemmed the tide with such a load. The underwood was so thick that it +was with great difficulty they could pass through it. At nine we were +under the necessity of waiting to ferry them over a river from the +South, which is not fordable. After some time we came to two deserted +houses, at the foot of a rapid, beyond which our boatmen absolutely +refused to conduct us by water. Here was a road which led opposite to +the village. We had, however, the curiosity to visit the houses, which +were erected upon posts, and we suffered very severely for the +indulgence of it; for the doors were covered with fleas, and we were +immediately in the same condition, for which we had no remedy but to +take to the water. There was not a spot round the houses free from +grass, that was not alive, as it were, with this vermin. + +Our guides proposed to conduct us on our way, and we followed them on a +well-beaten track. They, however, went so fast, that we could not all +of us keep up with them, particularly our sick Indian, whose situation +was very embarrassing to us, and at length they contrived to escape. I +very much wished for these men to have accompanied us to the village, in +order to do away any ill impressions which might have arisen from the +young chief's report to his father, which we were naturally led to +expect would not be in our favour. + +This road conducted us through the finest wood of cedar trees that I had +ever seen. I measured several of them that were twenty-four feet in the +girth, and of a proportionate height. The alder trees are also of an +uncommon size; several of them were seven feet and an half in +circumference, and rose to forty feet without a branch; but my men +declared that they had, in their progress, seen much larger of both +kinds. The other wood was hemlock; white birch, two species of +spruce-firs, willows, &c. Many of the large cedars appeared to have +been examined, as I suppose by the natives, for the purpose of making +canoes, but finding them hollow at heart, they were suffered to stand. +There was but little underwood, and the soil was a black rich mould, +which would well reward the trouble of cultivation. From the remains of +bones on certain spots, it is probable that the natives may have +occasionally burned their dead in this wood. + +As it was uncertain what our reception might be at the village, I +examined every man's arms and ammunition, and gave Mr. Mackay, who had +unfortunately lost his gun, one of my pistols. Our late conductors had +informed us that the man whom we left in a dying state, and to whom I +had administered some Turlington's balsam, was dead; and it was by no +means improbable that I might be suspected of hastening his end. + +At one in the afternoon we came to the bank of the river, which was +opposite to the village, which appeared to be in a state of perfect +tranquillity. Several of the natives were fishing above and below the +weir, and they very readily took us over in their canoes. The people +now hurried down to the water side, but I perceived none of the chief's +family among them. They made signs to me to go to his house; I +signified to them not to crowd about us, and indeed drew a line, beyond +which I made them understand they must not pass. I now directed +Mr. Mackay, and the men to remain there, with their arms in readiness, +and to keep the natives at a distance, as I was determined to go alone +to the chief's house; and if they should hear the report of my pistols, +they were ordered to make the best of their way from these people, as it +would then be equally fruitless and dangerous to attempt the giving me +any assistance, as it would be only in the last extremity, and when I +was certain of their intention to destroy me, that I should discharge my +pistols. My gun I gave to Mr. Mackay, when, with my loaded pistols in +my belt, and a poignard in my hand, I proceeded to the abode of the +chief. I had a wood to pass in my way thither, which was intersected by +various paths and I took one that led to the back, instead of the front +of the house; and as the whole had been very much altered since I was +here before, I concluded that I had lost my way. But I continued to +proceed, and soon met with the chief's wife, who informed me, that he +was at the next house. On my going round it, I perceived that they had +thrown open the gable ends, and added two wings, nearly as long as the +body, both of which were hung round with salmon as close as they could +be placed. As I could discover none of the men, I sat down upon a large +stone near some women who were supping on salmon roes and berries. They +invited me to partake of their fare, and I was about to accept their +invitation when Mr. Mackay joined me, as both himself and all my party +were alarmed at my being alone. Nor was his alarm lessened by an old +man whom he met in the wood, and who made use of signs to persuade him +to return. As he came without his gun, I gave him one of my pistols. +When I saw the women continue their employment without paying the least +attention to us, I could not imagine that any hostile design was +preparing against us. Though the non-appearance of the men awakened +some degree of suspicion that I should not be received with the same +welcome as on my former visit. At length the chief appeared, and his +son, who had been our guide, following him; displeasure was painted in +the old man's countenance, and he held in his hand a bead tobacco pouch +which belonged to Mr. Mackay, and the young chief had purloined from +him. When he had approached within three or four yards of me, he threw +it at me with great indignation, and walked away. I followed him, +however, until he had passed his son, whom I took by the hand, but he +did not make any very cordial return to my salutation; at the same time +he made signs for me to discharge my pistol, and give him my hanger +which Mr. Mackay had brought me, but I did not pay the least attention +to either of his demands. + +We now joined the chief, who explained to me that he was in a state of +deep distress for the loss of his son, and made me understand that he +had cut off his hair and blackened his face on the melancholy occasion. +He also represented the alarm which he had suffered respecting his son +who had accompanied us; as he apprehended we had killed him, or had all +of us perished together. When he had finished his narrative, I took him +and his son by their hands, and requested them to come with me to the +place where I had left my people, who were rejoiced to see us return, +having been in a state of great anxiety from our long absence. I +immediately remunerated the young chief for his company and assistance +in our voyage to the sea, as well as his father, for his former +attentions. I gave them cloth and knives, and, indeed, a portion of +everything which now remained to us. The presents had the desired +effect of restoring us to their favour; but these people are of so +changeable a nature, that there is no security with them. I procured +three robes and two otter-skins, and if I could have given such articles +in exchange as they preferred, I should probably have obtained more. I +now represented the length of the way which I had to go, and requested +some fish to support us on our journey, when he desired us to follow him +to the house, where mats were immediately arranged and a fish placed +before each of us. + +We were now informed, that our dog, whom we had lost, had been howling +about the village ever since we left it, and that they had reason to +believe he left the woods at night to eat the fish he could find about +the houses. I immediately dispatched Mr. Mackay, and a man, in search +of the animal, but they returned without him. + +When I manifested my intention to proceed on my journey, the chief +voluntarily sent for ten roasted salmon, and having attended us with his +son, and a great number of his people, to the last house in the village, +we took our leave. It was then half past three in the afternoon. + +I directed Mr. Mackay to take the lead, and the others to follow him in +Indian files, at a long and steady pace, as I determined to bring up the +rear. I adopted this measure from a confusion that was observable among +the natives which I did not comprehend. I was not without my suspicions +that some mischief was in agitation, and they were increased from the +confused noise we heard in the village. At the same time a considerable +number came running after us; some of them making signs for us to stop, +and others rushing by me. I perceived also, that those who followed us +were the strangers who live among these people, and are kept by them in +a state of awe and subjection; and one of them made signs to me that we +were taking a wrong road. I immediately called out to Mr. Mackay to +stop. This was naturally enough taken for an alarm, and threw my people +into great disorder. When, however, I was understood, and we had +mustered again, our Indian informed us, that the noise we heard was +occasioned by a debate among the natives, whether they should stop us or +not. When, therefore, we had got into the right road, I made such +arrangements as might be necessary for our defence, if we should have an +experimental proof that our late and fickle friends were converted into +enemies. + +Our way was through a forest of stately cedars, beneath a range of lofty +hills, covered with rocks, and without any view of the river. The path +was well beaten, but rendered incommodious by the large stones which lay +along it. + +As we were continuing our route, we all felt the sensation of having +found a lost friend at the sight of our dog; but he appeared, in a great +degree, to have lost his former sagacity. He ran in a wild way +backwards and forwards; and though he kept our road, I could not induce +him to acknowledge his master. Sometimes he seemed disposed to approach +as if he knew us; and then, on a sudden, he would turn away, as if +alarmed at our appearance. The poor animal was reduced almost to a +skeleton, and we occasionally dropped something to support him, and by +degrees he recovered his former sagacity. + +When the night came on we stopped at a small distance from the river, +but did not venture to make a fire. Every man took his tree, and laid +down in his clothes, and with his arms, beneath the shade of its +branches. We had removed to a short distance from the path; no sentinel +was now appointed, and every one was left to watch for his own safety. + + +_Friday, 26._--After a very restless, though undisturbed night, we set +forward as soon as day appeared, and walked on with all possible +expedition, till we got to the upper, which we now called Friendly +Village, and was the first we visited on our outward journey. + +It was eight in the morning of a very fine day when we arrived, and +found a very material alteration in the place since we left it. Five +additional houses had been erected and were filled with salmon: the +increase of inhabitants was in the same proportion. We were received +with great kindness, and a messenger was dispatched to inform the chief, +whose name was Soocomlick, and who was then at his fishing-weir, of our +arrival. He immediately returned to the village to confirm the cordial +reception of his people; and having conducted us to his house, +entertained us with the most respectful hospitality. In short, he +behaved to us with so much attention and kindness, that I did not +withhold anything in my power to give, which might afford him +satisfaction. I presented him with two yards of blue cloth, an axe, +knives, and various other articles. He gave me in return a large shell +which resembled the under shell of a Guernsey oyster, but somewhat +larger. Where they procured them I could not discover, but they cut and +polish them for bracelets, ear-rings, and other personal ornaments. He +regretted that he had no sea-otter skins to give me, but engaged to +provide abundance of them whenever either my friends or myself should +return by sea; an expectation which I thought it right to encourage +among these people. He also earnestly requested me to bring him a gun +and ammunition. I might have procured many curious articles at this +place, but was prevented by the consideration that we must have carried +them on our backs upwards of three hundred miles through a mountainous +country. The young chief, to his other acts of kindness, added as large +a supply of fish as we choose to take. + +Our visit did not occasion any particular interruption of the ordinary +occupation of the people; especially of the women, who were employed in +boiling sorrel, and different kinds of berries, with salmon-roes, in +large square kettles of cedar wood. This pottage, when it attained a +certain consistency, they took out with ladles, and poured it into +frames of about twelve inches square and one deep, the bottom being +covered with a large leaf, which were then exposed to the sun till their +contents became so many dried cakes. The roes that are mixed up with +the bitter berries, are prepared in the same way. From the quantity of +this kind of provision, it must be a principal article of food, and +probably of traffic. These people have also portable chests of cedar, +in which they pack them, as well as their salmon, both dried and +roasted. It appeared to me that they eat no flesh, except such as the +sea may afford them, as that of the sea-otter and the seal. The only +instance we observed to the contrary, was in a young Indian who +accompanied us among the islands, and has been already mentioned as +feasting on the flesh of a porcupine; whether this be their custom +throughout the year, or only during the season of the salmon fishery; +or, whether there were any castes of them, as in India, I cannot pretend +to determine. It is certain, however, that they are not hunters, and I +have already mentioned the abhorrence they expressed at some venison +which we brought to their village. During our former visit to these +people, they requested us not to discharge our fire-arms, lest the +report should frighten away the salmon, but now they expressed a wish +that I should explain the use and management of them. Though their +demeanour to us was of the most friendly nature, and they appeared +without any arms, except a few who accidentally had their daggers, I did +not think it altogether prudent to discharge our pieces; I therefore +fired one of my pistols at a tree marked for the purpose, when I put +four out of five buck shot with which it was loaded, into the circle, to +their extreme astonishment and admiration. + +These people were in general of the middle stature, well set, and better +clothed with flesh than any of the natives of the interior country. +Their faces are round, with high cheek bones, and their complexion +between the olive and the copper. They have small grey eyes, with a +tinge of red; they have wedge heads, and their hair is of a dark brown +colour, inclining to black. Some wear it long, keep it well combed, and +let it hang loose over their shoulders, while they divide and tie it in +knots over the temples. Others arrange its plaits, and bedaub it with +brown earth, so as to render it impervious to the comb; they, therefore, +carry a bodkin about them to ease the frequent irritation, which may be +supposed to proceed from such a state of the head. The women are +inclined to be fat, wear their hair short, and appear to be very subject +to swelled legs, a malady that probably proceeds from the posture in +which they are always sitting: as they are chiefly employed in the +domestic engagements of spinning, weaving, preparing the fish, and +nursing their children, which did not appear to be numerous. Their +cradle differed from any that I had seen; it consisted of a frame fixed +round a board of sufficient length, in which the child, after it has +been swathed, is placed on a bed of moss, and a conductor contrived to +carry off the urinary discharge. They are slung over one shoulder by +means of a cord fastened under the other, so that the infant is always +in a position to be readily applied to the breast, when it requires +nourishment. I saw several whose heads were inclosed in boards covered +with leather, till they attain the form of a wedge. The women wear no +clothing but the robe, either loose or tied round the middle with a +girdle, as the occasion may require, with the addition of a fringed +apron, already mentioned, and a cap, in the form of an inverted bowl or +dish. To the robe and cap, the men add, when it rains, a circular mat +with an opening in the middle sufficient to admit the head, which +extending over the shoulders, throws off the wet. They also +occasionally wear shoes of dressed moose-skin, for which they are +indebted to their neighbors. Those parts, which among all civilized +nations are covered from familiar view, are here openly exposed. + +They are altogether dependent on the sea and rivers for their +sustenance, so that they may be considered as a stationary people; hence +it is that the men engage in those toilsome employments, which the +tribes who support themselves by the chase, leave entirely to the women. +Polygamy is permitted among them, though, according to my observation, +most of the men were satisfied with one wife, with whom, however, +chastity is not considered as a necessary virtue. I saw but one woman +whose under lip was split and disfigured with an appendant ornament. +The men frequently bathe, and the boys are continually in the water. +They have nets and lines of various kinds and sizes, which are made of +cedar bark, and would not be known from those made of hemp. Their hooks +consist of two pieces of wood or bone, forming when fixed together, an +obtuse angle. + +Their spears or darts are from four to sixteen feet in length; the barb +or point being fixed in a socket, which, when the animal is struck, +slips from it: thus the barb being fastened by a string to the handle, +remains as a buoy; or enables the aquatic hunter to tire and take his +prey. They are employed against sea-otters, seals, and large fish. + +Their hatchets are made principally of about fourteen inches of +bar-iron, fixed into a wooden handle, as I have already described them; +though they have some of bone or horn: with these, a mallet and wooden +wedge, they hew their timbers and form their planks. They must also +have other tools with which they complete and polish their work, but my +stay was so short, my anxiety so great, and my situation so critical, +that many circumstances may be supposed to have escaped me. + +Their canoes are made out of the cedar tree, and will carry from eight +to fifty persons. + +Their warlike weapons, which, as far as I could judge, they very seldom +have occasion to employ, are bows and arrows, spears, and daggers. The +arrows are such as have been already described, but rather of a slighter +make. The bows are not more than two feet and an half in length; they +are formed of a slip of red cedar; the grain being on one side untouched +with any tool, while the other is secured with sinews 'attached to it by +a kind of glue. Though this weapon has a very slender appearance, it +throws an arrow with great force, and to a considerable distance. Their +spears are about ten feet long, and pointed with iron. Their daggers +are of various kinds, being of British, Spanish, and American +Manufacture. + +Their household furniture consists of boxes, troughs, and dishes formed +of wood, with different vessels made of watape. These are employed, +according to their several applications, to contain their valuables, and +provisions, as well as for culinary purposes, and to carry water. The +women make use of muscle-shells to split and clean their fish, and which +are very well adapted to that purpose. + +Their ornaments are necklaces, collars, bracelets for the arms, wrists, +and legs, with ear-rings, &c. + +They burn their dead, and display their mourning, by cutting their hair +short, and blackening their faces. Though I saw several places where +bodies had been burned, I was surprised at not seeing any tomb or +memorial of the dead, particularly when their neighbours are so +superstitiously attentive to the erection and preservation of them. + +From the number of their canoes, as well as the quantity of their chests +and boxes, to contain their moveables, as well as the insufficiency of +their houses, to guard against the rigours of a severe winter, and the +appearance of the ground around their habitations, it is evident that +these people reside here only during the summer or salmon season, which +does not probably last more than three months. It may be reasonably +inferred, therefore, that they have villages on the sea-coast, which +they inhabit during the rest of the year. There it may be supposed they +leave the sick, the infirm, and the aged; and thither they may bear the +ashes of those who die at the place of their summer residence. + +Of their religion I can say but little, as my means of observation were +very contracted. I could discover, however, that they believed in a +good and evil spirit: and that they have some forms of worship to +conciliate the protection of one, and perhaps to avert the enmity of the +other, is apparent from the temples which I have described; and where, +at stated periods, it may be presumed they hold the feasts, and perform +the sacrifices, which their religion, whatever it may be, has instituted +as the ceremonials of their public worship. + +From the very little I could discover of their government, it is +altogether different from any political regulation which had been +remarked by me among the savage tribes. It is on this river alone that +one man appears to have an exclusive and hereditary right to what was +necessary to the existence of those who are associated with him. I +allude to the salmon weir, or fishing place, the sole right to which +confers on the chief an arbitrary power. Those embankments could not +have been formed without a very great and associated labour; and, as +might be supposed, on the condition that those who assisted in +constructing it should enjoy a participating right in the advantages to +be derived from it. Nevertheless, it evidently appeared to me, that the +chief's power over it, and the people, was unlimited, and without +control. No one could fish without his permission, or carry home a +larger portion of what he had caught, than was set apart for him. No +one could build a house without his consent; and all his commands +appeared to be followed with implicit obedience. The people at large +seemed to be on a perfect equality, while the strangers among them were +obliged to obey the commands of the natives in general or quit the +village. They appear to be of a friendly disposition, but they are +subject to sudden gusts of passion, which are as quickly composed; and +the transition is instantaneous, from violent irritation to the most +tranquil demeanor. Of the many tribes of savage people whom I have +seen, these appear to be the most susceptible of civilization. They +might soon be brought to cultivate the little ground about them which is +capable of it. There is a narrow border of a rich black soil, on either +side of the river, over a bed of gravel, which would yield any grain or +fruit that are common to similar latitudes in Europe. + +The very few words which I collected of their language, are as +follows:-- + + Zimilk, Salmon. + Dilly, A fish of the size of a salmon, with canine teeth. + Sepnas, Hair of the head. + Kietis, An axe. + Clougus, Eyes. + Itzas, Teeth. + Ma-acza, Nose. + Ich-yeh, Leg. + Shous-shey Hand. + Watts, Dog. + Zla-achle, House. + Zimnez, Bark mat robe. + Couloun, Beaver or otter ditto. + Dichts, Stone. + Neach, Fire. + Ulkan, Water. + Gits com, A mat. + Shiggimis, Thread. + Till-kewan, Chest or box. + Thlogatt, Cedar bark. + Achimoul, Beads got upon their coast. + Il-caiette, A bonnet. + Couny, A clam shell. + Nochasky, A dish composed of berries and salmon roes. + Caiffre, What? + +[1] It is but common justice to him, to mention in this place that I had +every reason to be satisfied with his conduct. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + +JULY, 1793. + +At eleven in the morning we left this place, which I called Friendly +Village, accompanied by every man belonging to it, who attended us about +a mile, when we took a cordial leave of them; and if we might judge from +appearances, they parted from us with regret. + +In a short time we halted to make a division of our fish, and each man +had about twenty pounds weight of it, except Mr. Mackay and myself, who +were content with shorter allowance, that we might have less weight to +carry. We had also a little flour, and some pemmican. Having completed +this arrangement with all possible expedition, we proceeded onwards, the +ground rising gradually, as we continued our route. When we were clear +of the wood, we saw the mountain towering above, and apparently of +impracticable ascent. We soon came to the fork of the river, which was +at the foot of the precipice, where the ford was three feet deep, and +very rapid. Our young Indian, though much recovered, was still too weak +to cross the water, and with some difficulty I carried him over on my +back. + +It was now one in the afternoon, and we had to ascend the summit of the +first mountain before night came on, in order to look for water. I left +the sick Indian, with his companion and one of my men, to follow us, as +his strength would permit him. The fatigue of ascending these +precipices I shall not attempt to describe, and it was past five when we +arrived at a spot where we could get water, and in such an extremity of +weariness, that it was with great pain any of us could crawl about to +gather wood for the necessary purpose of making a fire. To relieve our +anxiety, which began to increase every moment for the situation of the +Indian, about seven he and his companions arrived; when we consoled +ourselves by sitting round a blazing fire, talking of past dangers, and +indulging the delightful reflection that we were thus far advanced on +our homeward journey. Nor was it possible to be in this situation +without contemplating the wonders of it. Such was the depth of the +precipices below, and the height of the mountains above, with the rude +and wild magnificence of the scenery around, that I shall not attempt to +describe such an astonishing and awful combination of objects; of which, +indeed, no description can convey an adequate idea. Even at this place, +which is only, as it were, the first step towards gaining the summit of +the mountains, the climate was very sensibly changed. The air that +fanned the village which we left at noon, was mild and cheering; the +grass was verdant, and the wild fruits ripe around it. But here the +snow was not yet dissolved, the ground was still bound by the frost, the +herbage had scarce begun to spring, and the crowberry bushes were just +beginning to blossom. + + +_Saturday, 27._--So great was our fatigue of yesterday, that it was +late before we proceeded to return over the mountains, by the same route +which we had followed in our outward journey. There was little or no +change in the appearance of the mountains since we passed them, though +the weather was very fine. + + +_Sunday, 28._--At nine this morning we arrived at the spot, where we +slept with the natives on the 16th instant, and found our pemmican in +good condition where we had buried it. + +The latitude of this place, by observation, when I passed, I found to be +52. 46. 32. I now took time, and the distance between sun and moon. I +had also an azimuth, to ascertain the variation. + +We continued our route with fine weather, and without meeting a single +person on our way, the natives being all gone, as we supposed, to the +Great River. We recovered all our hidden stores of provisions, and +arrived about two in the afternoon of Sunday, August the 4th, at the +place which we had left a month before. + +A considerable number of Indians were encamped on the opposite side of +the small river, and in consequence of the weather, confined to their +lodges: as they must have heard of, if not seen us, and our arms being +out of order from the rain, I was not satisfied with our situation; but +did not wish to create an alarm. We, therefore, kept in the edge of the +wood, and called to them, when they turned out like so many furies, with +their arms in their hands, and threatening destruction if we dared to +approach their habitations. We remained in our station till their +passion and apprehensions had subsided, when our interpreter gave them +the necessary information respecting us. They proved to be strangers to +us, but were the relations of those whom we had already seen here, and +who, as they told us, were upon an island at some distance up the river. +A messenger was accordingly sent to inform them of our arrival. + + +_Monday, 5._--On examining the canoe, and our property, which we had +left behind, we found it in perfect safety, nor was there the print of a +foot near the spot. We now pitched our tent, and made a blazing fire, +and I treated myself, as well as the people, with a dram; but we had +been so long without tasting any spirituous liquor, that we had lost all +relish for it. The Indians now arrived from above, and were rewarded +for the care they had taken of our property with such articles as were +acceptable to them. + +At nine this morning I sent five men in the canoe, for the various +articles we had left below, and they soon returned with them, and except +some bale goods, which had got wet, they were in good order, +particularly the provisions, of which we were now in great need. + +Many of the natives arrived both from the upper and lower parts of the +river, each of whom was dressed in a beaver robe. I purchased fifteen +of them; and they preferred large knives in exchange. It is an +extraordinary circumstance, that these people, who might have taken all +the property we left behind us, without the least fear of detection, +should leave that untouched, and purloin any of our utensils, which our +confidence in their honesty gave them a ready opportunity of taking. In +fact, several articles were missing, and as I was very anxious to avoid +a quarrel with the natives, in this stage of our journey, I told those +who remained near us, without any appearance of anger, that their +relations who were gone, had no idea of the mischief that would result +to them from taking our property. I gravely added, that the salmon, +which was not only their favourite food, but absolutely necessary to +their existence, came from the see which belonged to us white men; and +that as, at the entrance of the river, we could prevent those fish from +coming up it, we possessed the power to starve them and their children. +To avert our anger, therefore, they must return all the articles that +had been stolen from us. This finesse succeeded. Messengers were +dispatched to order the restoration of everything that had been taken. +We purchased several large salmon of them and enjoyed the delicious meal +which they afforded. + +At noon this day, which I allotted for repose, I got a meridian +altitude, which gave 53. 24. 10. I also took time. The weather had been +cloudy at intervals. + +Every necessary preparation had been made yesterday for us to continue +our route to-day; but before our departure, some of the natives arrived +with part of the stolen articles; the rest, they said, had been taken by +people down the river, who would be here in the course of the morning, +and recommended their children to our commiseration, and themselves to +our forgiveness. + +The morning was cloudy, with small rain, nevertheless I ordered the men +to load the canoe, and we proceeded in high spirits on finding ourselves +once more so comfortably together in it. We landed at a house on the +first island, where we procured a few salmon, and four fine beaver +skins. There had been much more rain in these parts than in the country +above, as the water was pouring down the hills in torrents. The river +consequently rose with great rapidity, and very much impeded our +progress. + +The people on this river are generally of the middle size, though I saw +many tall men among them. In the cleanliness of their persons they +resemble rather the Beaver Indians than the Chepewyans. They are +ignorant of the use of fire arms, and their only weapons are bows and +arrows, and spears. They catch the larger animals in snares, but though +their country abounds in them, and the rivers and lakes produce plenty +of fish, they find a difficulty in supporting themselves, and are never +to be seen but in small bands of two or three families. There is no +regular government among them; nor do they appear to have a sufficient +communication or understanding with each other, to defend themselves +against an invading enemy, to whom they fall an easy prey. They have +all the animals common on the West side of the mountains, except the +buffalo and the wolf; at least we saw none of the latter, and there +being none of the former, it is evident that their progress is from the +South-East. The same language is spoken, with very little exception +from the extent of my travels down this river, and in a direct line from +the North-East head of it in the latitude 53. or 54. to Hudson's Bay; +so that a Chepewyan, from which tribe they have all sprung, might leave +Churchill River, and proceeding in every direction to the North-West of +this line without knowing any language except his own, would understand +them all: I except the natives of the sea coast, who are altogether a +different people. As to the people to the Eastward of this river, I am +not qualified to speak of them. + +At twelve we ran our canoe upon a rock, so that we were obliged to land +in order to repair the injury she had received; and as the rain came on +with great violence, we remained here for the night. The salmon were +now driving up the current in such large shoals, that the water seemed, +as it were, to be covered with the fins of them. + + +_Wednesday, 7._--About nine this morning the weather cleared, and we +embarked. The shoals of salmon continued as yesterday. There were +frequent showers throughout the day, and every brook was deluged into a +river. The water had risen at least one foot and an half perpendicular +in the last twenty-four hours. In the dusk of the evening we landed for +the night. + + +_Thursday, 8._--The water continued rising during the night; so that +we were disturbed twice in the course of it, to remove our baggage. At +six in the morning we were on our way, and proceeded with continual and +laborious exertion, from the increased rapidity of the current. After +having passed the two carrying places of Rocky Point, and the Long +Portage, we encamped for the night. + + +_Friday, 9._--We set off at five, after a rainy night and in a foggy +morning. The water still retained its height. The sun, however, soon +beamed upon us; and our clothes and baggage were in such a state that we +landed to dry them. After some time we re-embarked and arrived at our +first encampment on this river about seven in the evening. The water +fell considerably in the course of the day. + + +_Saturday, 10._--The weather was cloudy with slight showers, and at +five this morning we embarked, the water falling as fast as it had +risen. This circumstance arises from the mountainous state of the +country on either side of the river, from whence the water rushes down +almost as fast as it falls from the heavens, with the addition of the +snow it melts in its way. At eight in the evening we stopped for the +night. + + +_Sunday, 11._--At five this morning we proceeded with clear weather. +At ten we came to the foot of the long rapid, which we ascended with +poles much easier than we expected. The rapids that were so strong and +violent in our passage downwards, were now so reduced, that we could +hardly believe them to be the same. At sunset we landed and encamped. + + +_Monday, 12._--The weather was the same as yesterday, and we were on +the water at a very early hour. At nine we came to a part of the river +where there was little or no current. At noon we landed to gum the +canoe, when I took a meridian altitude, which gave 54. 11. 36. North +latitude. We continued our route nearly East, and at three in the +afternoon approached the fork, when I took time, and the distance +between the sun and moon. At four in the afternoon we left the main +branch. The current was quite slack, as the water had fallen six feet, +which must have been in the course of three days. At sunset we landed +and took our station for the night. + + +_Tuesday, 13._--There was a very heavy rain in the night, and the +morning was cloudy; we renewed our voyage, however, at a very early +hour, and came to the narrow gut between the mountains of rock, which +was a passage of some risk; but fortunately the state of the water was +such, that we got up without any difficulty, and had more time to +examine these extraordinary rocks than in our outward passage. They are +as perpendicular as a wall, and give the idea of a succession of +enormous Gothic churches. We were now closely hemmed in by the +mountains, which had lost much oh their snow since our former passage by +them. We encamped at a late hour, cold, wet, and hungry: for such was +the state of our provisions, that our necessary allowance did not answer +to the active cravings of our appetites. + + +_Wednesday, 14._--The weather was cold and raw, with small rain, but +our necessities would not suffer us to wait for a favourable change of +it, and at half past five we arrived at the swampy carrying-place, +between this branch and the small river. At three in the afternoon the +cold was extreme, and the men could not keep themselves warm even by +their violent exertions which our situation required; and I now gave +them the remainder of our rum to fortify and support them. The canoe +was so heavy that the lives of two of them were endangered in this +horrible carrying-place. At the same time it must be observed, that +from the fatiguing circumstances of our journey, and the inadequate +state of our provisions, the natural strength of the men had been +greatly diminished. We encamped on the banks of the bad river. + + +_Thursday, 15._--The weather was now clear, and the sun shone upon us. +The water was much lower than in the downward passage, but was cold as +ice, and, unfortunately, the men were obliged to be continually in it to +drag on the canoe. There were many embarras, through which a passage +might have been made, but we were under the necessity of carrying both +the canoe and baggage. + +About sun-set we arrived at our encampment of the 13th of June, where +some of us had nearly taken our eternal voyage. The legs and feet of +the men were so benumbed, that I was very apprehensive of the +consequence. The water being low, we made a search for our bag of ball, +but without success. The river was full of salmon, and another fish +like the black bass. + + +_Friday, 16._--The weather continued to be the same as yesterday, and +at two in the afternoon we came to the carrying-place which leads to the +first small lake; but it was so filled with drift wood, that a +considerable portion of time was employed in making our way through it. +We now reached the high land which separates the source of the Tacoutche +Tesse, or Columbia River, and Unjigah, or Peace River: the latter of +which, after receiving many tributary streams, passes through the great +Slave Lake, and disembogues itself in the Frozen Ocean, in latitude +69. 30. North, longitude 135 West from Greenwich; while the former, +confined by the immense mountains that run nearly parallel with the +Pacific Ocean, and keep it in a Southern course, empties itself in +46. 20. North latitude and longitude 124 West from Greenwich. + +If I could have spared the time, and had been able to exert myself, for +I was now afflicted with a swelling in my ancles, so that I could not +even walk, but with great pain and difficulty, it was my intention to +have taken some salmon alive, and colonised them in the Peace River, +though it is very doubtful whether that fish would live in waters that +have not a communication with the sea. + +Some of the inhabitants had been here since we passed; and I apprehend, +that on seeing our road through their country, they mistook us for +enemies, and had therefore deserted the place, which is a most +convenient station; as on one side, there is a great plenty of white +fish, and trout, jub, carp, &c., and on the other abundance of salmon, +and probably other fish. Several things that I had left here in +exchange for articles of which I had possessed myself, as objects of +curiosity, were taken away. The hurtle-berries were now ripe, and very +fine of their kind. + + +_Saturday, 17._--The morning was cloudy, and at five we renewed our +progress. We were compelled to carry from the lake to the Peace River, +the passage, from the falling of the water, being wholly obstructed by +drift wood. The meadow through which we passed was entirely inundated; +and from the state of my foot and ancle, I was obliged, though with +great reluctance, to submit to be carried over it. + +At half past seven we began to glide along with the current of the Peace +River; and almost at every canoe's length we perceived Beaver roads to +and from the river. At two in the afternoon, an object attracted our +notice at the entrance of a small river, which proved to be the four +beaver skins, already mentioned to have been presented to me by a +native, and left in his possession to receive them on my return. I +imagined, therefore, that being under the necessity of leaving the +river, or, perhaps, fearing to meet us again, he had taken this method +to restore them to me; and to reward his honesty, I left three times the +value of the skins in their place. The snow appeared in patches on the +mountains. At four in the afternoon we passed the place where we. +found the first natives, and landed for the night at a late hour. In +the course of the day, we caught nine outards, or Canada geese, but they +were as yet without their feathers. + + +_Sunday, 18._--As soon as it was light we proceeded on our voyage, and +drove on before the current, which was very much diminished in its +strength, since we came up it. The water indeed, was so low, that in +many parts it exposed a gravelly beach. At eleven we landed at our +encampment of the seventh of June, to gum the canoe and dry our clothes: +we then re-embarked, and at half past five arrived at the place, where I +lost my book of memorandums, on the fourth of June, in which were +certain courses and distances between that day end the twenty-sixth of +May, which I had now an opportunity to supply. They were as follows: +North-North-West half a mile, East by North half a mile, North by East a +quarter of a mile, North-West by West a quarter of a mile, +West-South-West half a mile, North-West a mile and a quarter, +North-North-West three quarters of a mile, North by East half a mile, +North-West three quarters of a mile, West half a mile, North-West three +quarters of a mile, West-North-West one mile and a quarter, North three +quarters of a mile, West by North one quarter of a mile, North-West one +mile and an half, West-North-West half a mile, North-North-West three +quarters of a mile, West one quarter of a mile, North-North-East half a +mile, North-North-West two miles, and North-West four miles. + +We were seven days in going up that part of the river which we came down +to-day; and it now swarmed, as it were, with beavers and wild fowl. +There was rain in the afternoon, and about sunset we took our station +for the night. + + +_Monday, 19._--We had some small rain throughout the night. Our +course to-day was South-South-West three quarters of a mile, +West-North-West half a mile, North half a mile, North-West by West three +quarters of a mile, North by West half a mile; a small river to the +left, South-West by West three quarters of a mile, West-North-West a +mile and an half, North-West by North four miles, a rivulet on the +right, West-North-West three quarters of a mile; a considerable river +from the left, North-North-West two miles, North half a mile, +West-North-West one mile and a half; a rivulet on the right, North-West +by West one mile and a quarter, West-North-West one mile, +West-South-West a quarter of a mile, North-North-West half a mile, +North-West half a mile, West-South-West three quarters of a mile, +North-West by West three miles, West-South-West three quarters of a +mile, North-West by West one mile; a small river on the right, +South-West a quarter of a mile, West-North-West, islands, four miles and +a half, a river on the left, North half a mile, West a quarter of a +mile, North a quarter of a mile, North-West by West three quarters of a +mile, North-North-East three quarters of a mile, North-West by North +half a mile, West-North-West a mile and an half, and North-West by North +half a mile. The mountains were covered with fresh snow, whose showers +had dissolved in rain before they reached us. North-West three quarters +of a mile, South-West a quarter of a mile, North a mile and three +quarters, West-North-West a mile and a quarter, North-West a mile and a +half, North-North-West half a mile, West-North-West a quarter of a mile, +North half a mile; here the current was sleek: North-West by North half +a mile, North-West by West a quarter of a mile, North-North-West a +quarter of a mile, North-West by West one mile and a quarter, North half +a mile, North-East by North one mile and three quarters, South-West one +mile and a quarter, with an island, North by East one mile, North-West. +Here the other branch opened to us, at the distance of three quarters of +a mile. + +I expected from the slackness of the current in this branch, that +the Western one would be high, but I found it equally low. I had every +reason to believe that from the upper part of this branch, the distance +could not be great to the country through which I passed when I left the +Great River; but it has since been determined otherwise by Mr. J. Finlay, +who was sent to explore it, and found its navigation soon terminated by +falls and rapids. + +The branches are about two hundred yards in breadth, and the water was +six feet lower than on our upward passage. Our course, after the +junction, was North-North-West one mile, the rapid North-East down it +three quarters of a mile, North by West one mile and a quarter, North by +East one mile and an half, East by South one mile, North-East two miles +and an half, East-North-East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet; East by +South one mile and an half, North-East two miles, East-North-East one +mile, North-North-East a quarter of a mile, North-East by East-half a +mile, East-South-East a quarter of a mile, East-North-East half a mile, +North-East two miles, North-East by East two miles and a quarter, +South-East by East a quarter of a mile; a rivulet from the left; East by +North a mile and an half, East by South one mile, East-North-East one +mile and three quarters; a river on the right; North-North-East three +quarters of a mile, North-East a mile and a half, North-East by East a +mile and a quarter, East-North-East half a mile, and North-East by North +half a mile. Here we landed at our encampment of the 27th of June, from +whence I dispatched a letter in an empty keg, as was mentioned in that +period of my journal, which set forth our existing state, progress, and +expectation. + + +_Tuesday, 20._--Though the weather was clear, we could not embark this +morning before five, as there was a rapid very near us, which required +daylight to run it, that we might not break our canoe on the rocks. The +baggage we were obliged to carry. Our course was North by East a mile +and an half, North-North-East a mile and a half down another rapid on +the West side; it requires great care to keep directly between the eddy +current, and that which was driving down with so much impetuosity. We +then proceeded North-North-West, a river from the right; a mile and a +quarter, North-North-East a mile and a half, a river from the left; +North one mile and three quarters, North-East two miles, North-East by +East two miles and a quarter, East by North one mile, North-East by East +four miles, a river from the left, and East by South a mile and a half. +Here was our encampment on the 26th of May, beyond which it would be +altogether superfluous for me to take the courses, as they are inserted +in their proper places. + +As we continued our voyage, our attention was attracted by the +appearance of an Indian encampment. We accordingly landed, and found +there had been five fires, and within that number of days, so that there +must have been some inhabitants in the neighbourhood, though we were not +so fortunate as to see them. It appeared that they had killed a number +of animals, and fled in a state of alarm, as three of their canoes were +left carelessly on the beach, and their paddles laying about in +disorder. We soon after came to the carrying-place called the Portage +de la Montagne de Roche. Here I had a meridian altitude, which made the +latitude 56. 3. 51. North. + +The water, as I have already observed, was much lower than when we came +up it, though at the same time the current appeared to be stronger from +this place to the forks; the navigation, however, would now be attended +with greater facility, as there is a stony beach all the way, so that +poles, or the towing-line, may be employed with the best effect, where +the current overpowers the use of paddles. + +We were now reduced to a very short allowance; the disappointment, +therefore, at not seeing any animals was proportioned to our exigencies, +as we did not possess at this time more than was sufficient to serve us +for two meals. I now dispatched Mr. Mackay and the Indians to proceed +to the foot of the rapids, and endeavour in their way to procure some +provisions, while I prepared to employ the utmost expedition in getting +there; having determined, notwithstanding the disinclination of my +people, from the recollection of what they had suffered in coming that +way, to return by the same route. I had observed, indeed, that the +water which had fallen fifteen feet perpendicular, at the narrow pass +below us, had lost much of its former turbulence. + +As dispatch was essential in procuring a supply of provisions, we did +not delay a moment in making preparation to renew our progress. Five of +the men began to carry the baggage, while the sixth and myself took the +canoe asunder, to cleanse her of the dirt, and expose her lining and +timbers to the air, which would render her much lighter. About sun-set +Mr. Mackay and our hunters returned with heavy burdens of the flesh of a +buffalo: though not very tender, it was very acceptable, and was the +only animal that they had seen, though the country was covered with +tracks of them, as well as of the moose-deer and the elk. The former +had done rutting, and the latter were beginning to run. Our people +returned, having left their loads mid-way on the carrying-place. My +companion and myself completed our undertaking, and the canoe was ready +to be carried in the morning. A hearty meal concluded the day, and +every fear of future want was removed. + + +_Wednesday, 21._--When the morning dawned we set forwards, but as a +fire had passed through the portage, it was with difficulty we could +trace our road in many parts; and with all the exertion of which we were +capable, we did not arrive at the river till four in the afternoon. We +found almost as much difficulty in carrying our canoe down the mountain +as we had in getting it up; the men being not so strong as on the former +occasion, though they were in better spirits; and I was now enabled to +assist them, my ancle being almost well. We could not, however, proceed +any further till the following day, as we had the canoe to gum, with +several great and small poles to prepare; those we had left here having +been carried away by the water, though we had left them in a position +from fifteen to twenty feet above the water-mark, at that time. These +occupations employed us till a very late hour. + + +_Thursday, 22._--The night was cold, and though the morning was fine +and clear, it was seven before we were in a state of preparation to +leave this place, sometimes driving with the current, and at other times +shooting the rapids. The latter had lost much of their former strength; +but we, nevertheless, thought it necessary to land very frequently, in +order to examine the rapids before we could venture to run them. +However, the canoe being light, we very fortunately passed them all, and +at noon arrived at the place where I appointed to meet Mr. Mackay and +the hunters: there we found them, with plenty of excellent fat meat, +ready roasted, as they had killed two elks within a few hundred yards of +the spot where we then were. When the men had satisfied their +appetites, I sent them for as much of the meat as they could carry. In +coming hither, Mr. Mackay informed me, that he and the hunters kept +along the high land, and did not see or cross the Indian path. At the +same time, there can be no doubt but the road from this place to the +upper part of the rapids is to be preferred to that which we came, both +for expedition and safety. + +After staying here about an hour and a half, we proceeded with the +stream, and landed where I had forgotten my pipe-tomahawk and seal, on +the eighteenth of May. The former of them I now recovered. On leaving +the mountains we saw animals grazing in every direction. In passing +along an island, we fired at an elk, and broke its leg; and as it was +now time to encamp, we landed; when the hunters pursued the wounded +animal, which had crossed over to the main land, but could not get up +the bank. We went after it, therefore, in the canoe, and killed it. To +give some notion of our appetites, I shall state the elk, or at least +the carcase of it, which we brought away, to have weighed two hundred +and fifty pounds; and as we had taken a very hearty meal at one o'clock, +it might naturally be supposed that we should not be very voracious at +supper; nevertheless, a kettle full of the elk flesh was boiled and +eaten, and that vessel replenished and put on the fire. All that +remained, with the bones, &c. was placed, after the Indian fashion, +round the fire to roast, and at ten next morning the whole was consumed +by ten persons and a large dog, who was allowed his share of the +banquet. This is no exaggeration; nor did any inconvenience result from +what may be considered as an inordinate indulgence. + + +_Friday, 23._--We were on the water before daylight; and when the sun +rose, a beautiful country appeared around us, enriched and animated by +large herds of wild cattle. The weather was now so warm, that to us, +who had not of late been accustomed to heat, it was overwhelming and +oppressive. In the course of this day we killed a buffalo and a bear; +but we were now in the midst of abundance, and they were not +sufficiently fat to satisfy our fastidious appetites, so we left them +where they fell. We landed for the night, and prepared ourselves for +arriving at the Fort on the following day. + + +_Saturday, 24._--The weather was the same as yesterday, and the +country increasing in beauty; though as we approached the Fort, the +cattle appeared proportionably to diminish. We now landed at two lodges +of Indians, who were as astonished to see us, as if we had been the +first white men whom they had ever beheld. When we had passed these +people, not an animal was to be seen on the borders of the river. + +At length, as we rounded a point, and came in view of the Fort, we threw +out a flag, and accompanied it with a general discharge of our +fire-arms; while the men were in such spirits, and made such an active +use of their paddles, that we arrived before the two men whom we left +here in the spring, could recover their senses to answer us. Thus we +landed at four in the afternoon, at the place which we left on the ninth +of May. + +Here my voyages of discovery terminate. + +Their toils and their dangers, their solicitudes and sufferings, have +not been exaggerated in my description. On the contrary, in many +instances, language has failed me in the attempt to describe them. I +received, however, the reward of my labours, for they were crowned with +success. + +As I have now resumed the character of a trader I shall not trouble my +readers with any subsequent concern, but content myself with the closing +infomation, that after an absence of eleven months, I arrived at Fort +Chepewyan, where I remained, for the purposes of trade, during the +succeeding winter. + +---- + +The following general, but short, geographical view of the country may +not be improper to close this work, as well as some remarks on the +probable advantages that may be derived from advancing the trade of it, +under proper regulations, and by the spirit of commercial enterprize. + +By supposing a line from the Atlantic, East, to the Pacific, West, in +the parallel of forty-five degrees of North latitude, it will, I think, +nearly describe the British territories in North America. For I am of +opinion, that the extent of the country to the South of this line, which +we have a right to claim, is equal to that to the North of it, which may +be claimed by other powers. + +The outline of what I shall call the first division, is along that track +of country which runs from the head of James-Bay, in about latitude +51. North, along the Eastern coast, as far North as to, and through +Hudson's Straits, round by Labrador; continuing on the Atlantic coast, +on the outside of the great islands, in the gulf of St. Laurence, to the +river St. Croix, by which it takes its course, to the height of land +that divides the waters emptying themselves into the Atlantic, from +those discharged into the river St. Laurence. Then following these +heights, as the boundary between the British possessions, and those of +the American States, it makes an angle Westerly until it strikes the +discharge of Lake Champlain, in latitude 45. North, when it keeps a +direct West line till it strikes the river St. Laurence, above Lake +St. Francis, where it divides the Indian village St. Rigest; from whence +it follows the centre of the waters of the great river St. Laurence: it +then proceeds through Lake Ontario, the connection between it and Lake +Erie; through the latter, and its chain of connection, by the river +Detroit, as far South as latitude 42. North, and then through the lake +and river St. Clair, as also lake Huron, through which it continues to +the strait of St. Mary, latitude 46. 30. North; from which we will +suppose the line to strike to the East of North, to the head of James +Bay, in the latitude already mentioned. + +Of this great tract, more than half is represented as barren and broken, +displaying a surface of rock and fresh water lakes, with a very +scattered and scanty proportion of soil. Such is the whole coast of +Labrador, and the land, called East Main to the West of the heights, +which divide the waters running into the river and gulf of St. Laurence, +from those flowing into Hudson's Bay. It is consequently inhabited only +by a few savages, whose numbers are proportioned to the scantiness of +the soil; nor is it probable, from the same cause, that they will +encrease. The fresh and salt waters, with a small quantity of game, +which the few, stinted woods afford, supply the wants of nature; from +whence, to that of the line of the American boundary, and the Atlantic +Ocean, the soil, wherever cultivation has been attempted, has yielded +abundance; particularly on the river St. Laurence, from Quebec upwards, +to the line of boundary already mentioned; but a very inconsiderable +proportion of it has been broken by the plough-share. + +The line of the second division may be traced from that of the first at +St. Mary's, from which also the line of American boundary runs, and is +said to continue through Lake Superior (and through a lake called the +Long Lake which has no existence), to the Lake of the Woods, in latitude +49. 37. North, from whence it is also said to run West to the +Mississippi, which it may do, by giving it a good deal of Southing, but +not otherwise; as the source of that river does not extend further North +than latitude 47. 38. North, where it is no more than a small brook; +consequently, if Great Britain retains the right of entering it along +the line of division, it must be in a lower latitude, and wherever that +may be, the line must be continued West, till it terminates in the +Pacific Ocean, to the South of the Columbia. This division is then +bounded by the Pacific Ocean on the West, the Frozen Sea and Hudson's +Bay on the North and East. The Russians, indeed, may claim with +justice, the islands and coast from Behring's Straits to Cook's Entry. + +The whole of this country will long continue in the possession of its +present inhabitants, as they will remain contented with the produce of +the woods and waters for their support, leaving the earth, from various +causes, in its virgin state. The proportion of it that is fit for +cultivation, is very small and is still less in the interior parts; it +is also very difficult of access; and whilst any land remains +uncultivated to the South of it, there will be no temptation to settle +it. Besides, its climate is not in general sufficiently genial to bring +the fruits of the earth to maturity. It will also be an asylum for the +descendants of the original inhabitants of the country to the South, who +prefer the modes of life of their forefathers, to the improvements of +civilization. Of this disposition there is a recent instance. A small +colony of Iroquois emigrated to the banks of the Saskatchiwine, in 1799, +who had been brought up from their infancy under the Romish +missionaries, and instructed by them at a village within nine miles of +Montreal. + +A further division of this country is marked by a ridge of high land, +rising, as it were, from the coast of Labrador, and running nearly +South-West to the source of the Utawas River, dividing the waters going +either way to the river and gulf of St. Laurence and Hudson's Bay, as +before observed. From thence it stretches to the North of West, to the +Northward of Lake Superior, to latitude 50. North, and longitude +98. West, when it forks from the last course at about South-West, and +continues the same division of waters until it passes North of the +source of the Mississippi. The former course runs, as has been +observed, in a North-West direction, until it strikes the river Nelson, +separating the waters that discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, which +forms part of the said river, and those that also empty themselves into +Hudson's Bay, by the Albany, Severn, and Hay's or Hill's Rivers. From +thence it keeps a course of about West-North-West, till it forms the +banks of the Missinipi or Churchill River, at Portage de Traite, +latitude 55. 25. North. It now continues in a Western direction, +between the Saskatchiwine and the source of the Missinipi, or Beaver +River, which it leaves behind, and divides the Saskatchiwine from the +Elk River; when, leaving those also behind, and pursuing the same +direction it leads to the high land that lies between the Unjigah and +Tacoutche rivers, from whence it may be supposed to be the same ridge. +From the head of the Beaver River, on the West, the same kind of high +ground runs to the East of North, between the waters of the Elk and +Missinipi River forming the Portage la Loche, and continuing on to the +latitude 57. 15. North, dividing the waters that run to Hudson's Bay +from those going to the North Sea: from thence its course is nearly +North, when an angle runs from it to the North of the Slave Lake, till +it strikes Mackenzie's River. + +The last, but by no means the least, is the immense ridge, or succession +of ridges of stony mountains, whose Northern extremity dips in the North +Sea, in latitude 70. North, and longitude 135. West, running nearly +South-East, and begins to be parallel with the coast of the Pacific +Ocean, from Cook's entry, and so onwards to the Columbia. From thence +it appears to quit the coast, but still continuing, with less elevation, +to divide the waters of the Atlantic from those which run into the +Pacific. In those snow-clad mountains rises the Mississippi, if we +admit the Missouri to be its source, which flows into the Gulph of +Mexico; the River Nelson, which is lost in Hudson's Bay; Mackenzie's +River, that discharges itself into the North Sea; and the Columbia +emptying itself into the Pacific Ocean. The great River St. Laurence +and Churchill River, with many lesser ones, derive their sources far +short of these mountains. It is, indeed, the extension of these +mountains so far South on the sea coast, that prevents the Columbia from +finding a more direct course to the sea, as it runs obliquely with the +coast upwards of eight degrees of latitude before it mingles with the +ocean. + +It is further to be observed, that these mountains, from Cook's entry to +the Columbia, extend from six to eight degrees in breadth Easterly; and +that along their Eastern skirts is a narrow strip of very marshy, boggy, +and uneven ground, the outer edge of which produces coal and bitumen: +these I saw on the banks of Mackenzie's River, as far North as latitude +66. I also discovered them in my second journey, at the commencement of +the rocky mountains in 56. North latitude, and 120. West longitude; and +the same was observed by Mr. Fidler, one of the servants of the Hudson's +Bay Company, at the source of the South branch of the Saskatchiwine, in +about latitude 52 North, and longitude 112. 30. West.[1] Next to this +narrow belt are immense plains, or meadows, commencing in a point at +about the junction of the River of the Mountain with Mackenzie's River, +widening as they continue East and South, till they reach the Red River +at its confluence with the Assiniboin River, from whence they take a +more Southern direction, along the Mississippi towards Mexico. +Adjoining to these plains is a broken country, composed of lakes, rocks, +and soil. + +From the banks of the rivers running through the plains, there appeared +to ooze a saline fluid, concreting into a thin, scurf on the grass. +Near that part of the Slave River where it first loses the name of Peace +River, and along the extreme edge of these plains, are very strong salt +springs, which in the summer concrete and crystallize in great +quantities. About the Lake Dauphin, on the South-West side of Lake +Winipic, are also many salt ponds, but it requires a regular process to +form salt from them. Along the West banks of the former is to be seen, +at intervals, and traced in the line of the direction of the plains, a +soft rock of lime-stone, in thin and nearly horizontal stratas, +particularly on the Beaver, Cedar, Winipic, and Superior lakes, as also +in the beds of the rivers crossing that line. It is also remarkable +that, at the narrowest part of Lake Winipic, where it is not more than +two miles in breadth, the West side is faced with rocks of this stone +thirty feet perpendicular; while, on the East side, the rocks are more +elevated, and of a dark-grey granite. + +The latter is to be found throughout the whole extent North of this +country, to the coast of Hudson's Bay, and as I have been informed, +along that coast, onwards to the coast of Labrador; and it may be +further observed, that between these extensive ranges of granite and +lime-stone are found all the great lakes of this country. + +There is another very large district which must not be forgotten; and +behind all the others in situation as well as in soil, produce, and +climate. This comprehends the tract called the Barren Grounds, which is +to the North of a line drawn from Churchill, along the North border of +the Rein-Deer Lake, to the North of the Lake of the Hills and Slave +Lake, and along the North side of the latter to the rocky mountains, +which terminate in the North Sea, latitude 70. North, and longitude +135. West; in the whole extent of which no trees are visible, except a +few stinted ones, scattered along its rivers, and with scarce anything +of surface that can be called earth; yet, this inhospitable region is +inhabited by a people who are accustomed to the life it requires. Nor +has bountiful nature withheld the means of subsistence; the rein deer, +which supply both food and clothing, are satisfied with the produce of +the hills, though they bear nothing but a short curling moss, on a +species of which, that grows on the rocks, the people themselves subsist +when famine invades them. Their small lakes are not furnished with a +great variety of fish, but such as they produce are excellent, which, +with hares and partridges, form a proportion of their food. + +The climate must necessarily be severe in such a country as we have +described, and which displays so large a surface of fresh water. Its +severity is extreme on the coast of Hudson's Bay, and proceeds from its +immediate exposure to the North West winds that blow off the Frozen +Ocean. + +These winds, in crossing directly from the bay over Canada and the +British dominions on the Atlantic, as well as over the Eastern +States of North America to that ocean, (where they give to those +countries a length of winter astonishing to the inhabitants of the same +latitudes in Europe), continue to retain a great degree of force and +cold in their passage, even over the Atlantic, particularly at the time +when the sun is in its Southern declination. The same winds which come +from the Frozen Ocean, over the barren grounds, and across frozen lakes +and snowy plains, bounded by the rocky mountains, lose their frigid +influence, as they travel in a Southern direction, till they get to the +Atlantic Ocean, where they close their progress. Is not this a +sufficient cause for the difference between the climate in America, and +that of the same latitude in Europe? + +It has been frequently advanced, that the clearing away the wood has had +an astonishing influence in meliorating the climate in the former: but I +am not disposed to assent to that opinion in the extent which it +proposes to establish, when I consider the very trifling proportion of +the country cleared, compared with the whole. The employment of the axe +may have had some inconsiderable effect; but I look to other causes. I +myself observed in a country, which was in an absolute state of nature, +that the climate is improving; and this circumstance was confirmed to me +by the native inhabitants of it. Such a change, therefore, must proceed +from some predominating operation in the system of the globe which is +beyond my conjecture, and, indeed, above my comprehension, and may, +probably, in the course, of time, give to America the climate of Europe. +It is well known, indeed, that the waters are decreasing there, and that +many lakes are draining and filling up by the earth which is carried +into them from the higher lands by the rivers: and this may have some +partial effect. + +The climate on the West coast of America assimilates much more to that +of Europe in the same latitudes: I think very little difference will be +found, except such as proceed from the vicinity of high mountains +covered with snow. This is an additional proof that the difference in +the temperature of the air proceeds from the cause already mentioned. + +Much has been said, and much more still remains to be said on the +peopling of America.--On this subject I shall confine myself to one or +two observations, and leave my readers to draw their inferences from +them. + +The progress of the inhabitants of the country immediately under our +observation, which is comprised within the line of latitude 45. North, +is as follows: that of the Esquimaux, who possess the sea coast from the +Atlantic through Hudson's Straits and Bay, round to Mackenzie's River +(and I believe further), is known to be Westward; they never quit the +coast, and agree in appearance, manners, language, and habits with the +inhabitants of Greenland. The different tribes whom I describe under +the name of Algonquins and Knisteneaux, but originally the same people, +were the inhabitants of the Atlantic coast, and the banks of the river +St. Laurence and adjacent countries: their progress is Westerly, and +they are even found West and North as far as Athabasca. On the +contrary, the Chepewyans, and the numerous tribes who speak their +language, occupy the whole space between the Knisteneaux country and +that of the Esquimaux, stretching behind the natives of the coast of the +Pacific, to latitude 52. North, on the river Columbia. Their progress +is Easterly, and, according to their own traditions, they came from +Siberia; agreeing in dress and manner with the people now found upon the +coast of Asia. + +Of the inhabitants of the coast of the Pacific Ocean we know little more +than that they are stationary there. The Nadowasis or Assiniboins, as +well as the different tribes not particularly described, inhabiting the +plains on and about the source and banks of the Saskatchiwine and +Assiniboin rivers, are from the Southward, and their progress is +North-West. + +---- + +The discovery of a passage by sea, North-East or North West from the +Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, has for many years excited the attention +of governments, and encouraged the enterprising spirit of individuals. +The non-existence, however, of any such practical passage being at +length determined, the practicability of a passage through the +continents of Asia and America becomes an object of consideration. The +Russians, who first discovered, that, along the coasts of Asia no useful +or regular navigation existed, opened an interior communication by +rivers, &c., and through that long and wide-extended continent, to the +strait that separates Asia from America, over which they passed to the +adjacent islands and continent of the latter. Our situation, at length, +is in some degree similar to theirs: the non-existence of a practicable +passage by sea and the existence of one through the continent, are +clearly proved; and it requires only the countenance and support of the +British Government, to increase in a very ample proportion this national +advantage, and secure the trade of that country to its subjects. + +Experience, however, has proved, that this trade, from its very nature +cannot be carried on by individuals. A very large capital, or credit, +or indeed both, is necessary, and consequently an association of men of +wealth to direct, with men of enterprise to act, in one common interest, +must be formed on such principles, as that in due time the latter may +succeed the former, in continual and progressive succession. Such was +the equitable and successful mode adopted by the merchants from Canada, +which has been already described. + +The junction of such a commercial association with the Hudson's Bay +Company, is the important measure which I would propose, and the trade +might then be carried on with a very superior degree of advantage, both +private and public, under the privilege of their charter, and would +prove, in fact, the complete fulfilment of the conditions, on which it +was first granted. + +It would be an equal injustice to either party to be excluded from the +option of such an undertaking; for if the one has a right by charter, +has not the other a right by prior possession, as being successor to the +subjects of France, who were exclusively possessed of all the then known +parts of this country, before Canada was ceded to Great Britain, except +the coast of Hudson's Bay, and having themselves been the discoverers of +a vast extent of country since added to his Majesty's territories, even +to the Hyperborean and the Pacific Oceans? + +If, therefore, that company should decline, or be averse to engage in, +such an extensive, and perhaps hazardous undertaking, it would not, +surely, be an unreasonable proposal to them, from government, to give up +a right which they refuse to exercise, on allowing them a just and +reasonable indemnification of their stock, regulated by the average +dividends of a certain number of years, or the actual price at which +they transfer their stock. + +By enjoying the privilege of the company's charter, though but for a +limited period, there are adventurers who would be willing, as they are +able, to engage in, and carry on the proposed commercial undertaking, as +well as to give the most ample and satisfactory security to government +for the fulfilment of its contract with the company. It would, at the +same time, be equally necessary to add a similar privilege of trade on +the Columbia River, and its tributary waters. + +If, however, it should appear, that the Hudson's Bay Company have an +exclusive right to carry on their trade as they think proper, and +continue it on the narrow scale, and with so little benefit to the +public as they now do; if they should refuse to enter into a +co-operative junction with others, what reasonable cause can they assign +to government for denying the navigation of the bay to Nelson's River: +and, by its waters, a passage to and from the interior country, for the +use of the adventurers, and for the sole purpose of transport, under the +most severe and binding restrictions not to interfere with their trade +on the coast, and the country between it and the actual establishments +of the Canadian traders.[2] + +By these waters that discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay at Port +Nelson, it is proposed to carry on the trade to their source, at the +head of the Saskatchiwine River, which rises in the Rocky Mountains, not +eight degrees of longitude from the Pacific Ocean. The Tacoutche or +Columbia River flows also from the same mountains, and discharges itself +likewise in the Pacific, in latitude 46. 20. Both of them are capable +of receiving ships at their mouths, and are navigable throughout for +boats. + +The distance between these waters is only known from the report of the +Indians. If, however, this communication should prove inaccessible, the +route I pursued, though longer, in consequence of the great angle it +makes to the North, will answer every necessary purpose. But whatever +course may be taken from the Atlantic, the Columbia is the line of +communication from the Pacific Ocean, pointed out by nature, as it is +the only navigable river in the whole extent of Vancouver's minute +survey of that coast: its banks also form the first level country in all +the Southern extent of continental coast from Cook's entry, and, +consequently, the most Northern situation fit for colonization, and +suitable to the residence of a civilized people. By opening this +intercourse between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and forming regular +establishments through the interior, and at both extremes, as well as +along the coasts and islands, the entire command of the fur trade of +North America might be obtained, from latitude 48. North to the pole, +except that portion of it which the Russians have in the Pacific. To +this may be added the fishing in both seas, and the markets of the four +quarters of the globe. Such would be the field for commercial +enterprise, and incalculable would be the produce of it, when supported +by the operations of that credit and capital which Great Britain so +pre-eminently possesses. Then would this country begin to be +remunerated for the expences it has sustained in discovering and +surveying the coast of the Pacific Ocean, which is at present left to +American adventurers, who without regularity or capital, or the desire +of conciliating future confidence, look altogether to the interest of +the moment. They, therefore, collect all the skins they can procure, +and in any manner that suits them, and having exchanged them at Canton +for the produce of China, return to their own country. Such +adventurers, and many of them, as I have been informed, have been very +successful, would instantly disappear from before a well-regulated +trade. + +It would be very unbecoming in me to suppose for a moment, that the +East-India Company would hesitate to allow those privileges to their +fellow-subjects which are permitted to foreigners in a trade, that is so +much out of the line of their own commerce, and therefore cannot be +injurious to it. Many political reasons, which it is not necessary here +to enumerate, must present themselves to the mind of every man +acquainted with the enlarged system and capacities of British commerce +in support of the measure which I have very briefly suggested, as +promising the most important advantages to the trade of the united +kingdoms. + +[1] Bitumen is also found on the coast of the Slave Lake, in latitude +60. North, near its discharge by Mackenzie's River; and also near the +forks of the Elk River. + +[2] Independent of the prosecution of this great object, I conceive, +that the merchants from Canada are entitled to such an indulgence (even +if they should be considered as not possessing a rightful claim), in +order that they might be enabled to extend their trade beyond their +present limits, and have it in their power to supply the natives with a +larger quantity of useful articles; the enhanced value of which, and the +present difficulty of transporting them, will be fully comprehended, +when I relate, that the tract of transport occupies an extent of from +three to four thousand miles, through upwards of sixty large fresh water +lakes, and numerous rivers; and that the means of transport are slight +bark canoes. It must also be observed, that those waters are +intercepted by more than two hundred rapids, along which the articles of +merchandise are chiefly carried on men's backs, and over a hundred and +thirty carrying-places, from twenty-five paces to thirteen miles in +length where the canoes and cargoes proceed by the same toilsome and +perilous operations. + + +THE END + + +_It is to be observed, that the Courses throughout the Journals are +taken by_ Compass, _and that the Variation must be considered._ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages from Montreal Through the +Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793, by Alexander Mackenzie + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL II *** + +***** This file should be named 35659.txt or 35659.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/6/5/35659/ + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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