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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/35658-8.txt b/35658-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..90c0235 --- /dev/null +++ b/35658-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8182 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent +of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793, by Alexander Mackenzie + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793 + Vol. I + +Author: Alexander Mackenzie + +Release Date: March 22, 2011 [EBook #35658] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL I *** + + + + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + + + + +VOYAGES from MONTREAL +THROUGH THE CONTINENT of NORTH AMERICA + +TO THE +FROZEN and PACIFIC OCEANS +IN 1789 and 1793 + +WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE RISE +AND STATE OF THE FUR TRADE + +By + +ALEXANDER MACKENZIE + +WITH MAP + + +IN TWO VOLUMES + +VOL. I. + + +NEW YORK +A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY +1903 + + + + +Registered at the +Library of Congress, August, 1902 +A. S. BARNES & COMPANY + + + + +Introduction. + +The exact date of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's birth is not accurately +known, although it is supposed he was born at Inverness, Scotland, about +1755. He came to North America at an early age and obtained employment +in the counting-house of Messrs. Gregory and Co., a connexion of the +North-West Fur Company. It was while he was with this company that he +obtained the experience and knowledge necessary to his profession of a +fur-trader, long before he undertook his arduous and dangerous +expeditions to the far North. He was soon to distinguish himself. His +firm gave him a small venture to Detroit on condition that he penetrate +to the back country, which was then almost entirely unexplored, and open +up trade with the Indians. He carried out his task in his usual +thorough manner, but not without a severe struggle with a party of +European traders, who had already obtained a foothold on the margin of +this district, and who resented any interference with their monopoly by +outside parties. However, finally the intruders were permitted to +remain and share in the trade with the first comers. For many years +after this, Mr. Mackenzie was occupied in trading and exploring in +various parts of the continent, but of these operations we have, +unfortunately, little or no record. After the amalgamation of the +North-West Company with the older Hudson's-Bay Company, Mr. Mackenzie +appears to have resided in Canada, where he became a member of the +provincial parliament, representing Huntingdon County. He married in +1812, and afterwards bought an estate at Avoch, Ross-shire, Scotland, +where he resided until his death in March, 1820. + +It is as an explorer of the vast and lonely wilds of the North that +Mackenzie's fame chiefly rests. The bravery and hardihood which carried +him thousands of miles over the prairie and muskegs of the illimitable +plains, down the rapids of great unknown rivers, over the ranges of +almost impassable mountains, will always command the admiration of all +who care for noble deeds. With a small party of Canadian _voyageurs_ +and Indians, in birch-bark canoes, Mr. Mackenzie started to explore the +unknown regions of the North. Skirting the Great Slave Lake, he finally +entered the Mackenzie River, and then began that long, deep plunge into +the wilderness, which lasted many months, until he finally emerged on +the shores of the Arctic Ocean, in Latitude 69. North. Here he set up a +post with his name and date of visit. The return voyage was fraught +with many dangers and vicissitudes, but he finally arrived safely at +Fort Chippewayan in September, 1789. + +Mr. Mackenzie's next expedition was even more dangerous and difficult +than the former. He started from Fort Chippewayan on the 10th of July, +1792, with the object of reaching the Pacific Coast, an enterprise never +before attempted by a European. After more than nine months of perilous +travel he achieved his ambition and reached the Great Western Ocean near +Cape Menzies on the 22nd June, 1793. He is said to have inscribed on +the face of a rock the date of his visit, and here it was that he was +nearly murdered by the natives before setting out on his return. + +The results of Mr. Mackenzie's voyages to the far North have not been +meagre. The opening of the territory to the west of the Rocky +Mountains, followed quickly after; and the great Hudson's-Bay Company +immediately started to stud the whole northern country with small +trading posts, whence have been drawn since incalculable riches in the +furs of the North. + +All this is easy enough to write down, but the tale is still far from +being told in full. What of the long days of gloom and loneliness, days +of peril and uncertainty, days when hope had almost reached the +vanishing point? Who shall speak? It is a fascinating record which has +placed the name of this indomitable Scotchman beside the names of the +world's greatest explorers. + +ROBERT WAITE. + + + + +Preface. + +On presenting this Volume to my Country, it is not necessary to enter +into a particular account of those voyages whose journals form the +principal part of it, as they will be found, I trust, to explain +themselves. It appears, however, to be a duty, which the Public have a +right to expect from me, to state the reasons which have influenced me +in delaying the publication of them. + +It has been asserted, that a misunderstanding between a person high in +office and myself, was the cause of this procrastination. It has also +been propagated, that it was occasioned by that precaution which the +policy of commerce will sometimes suggest; but they are both equally +devoid of foundation. The one is an idle tale; and there could be no +solid reason for concealing the circumstances of discoveries, whose +arrangements and prosecution were so honourable to my associates and +myself, at whose expense they were undertaken. The delay actually arose +from the very active and busy mode of life in which I was engaged since +the voyages have been completed; and when, at length, the opportunity +arrived, the apprehension of presenting myself to the Public in the +character of an Author, for which the courses and occupations of my life +have by no means qualified me, made me hesitate in committing my papers +to the Press; being much better calculated to perform the voyages, +arduous as they might be, than to write an account of them. However, +they are now offered to the Public with the submission that becomes me. + +I was led, at an early period of life, by commercial views, to the +country North-West of Lake Superior, in North America, and being endowed +by Nature with an inquisitive mind and enterprising spirit; possessing +also a constitution and frame of body equal to the most arduous +undertakings, and being familiar with toilsome exertions in the +prosecution of mercantile pursuits, I not only contemplated the +practicability of penetrating across the continent of America, but was +confident in the qualifications, as I was animated by the desire, to +undertake the perilous enterprise. + +The general utility of such a discovery, has been universally +acknowledged; while the wishes of my particular friends and commercial +associates, that I should proceed in the pursuit of it, contributed to +quicken the execution of this favourite project of my own ambition: and +as the completion of it extends the boundaries of geographic science, +and adds new countries to the realms of British commerce, the dangers I +have encountered, and the toils I have suffered, have found their +recompence; nor will the many tedious and weary days, or the gloomy and +inclement nights which I have passed, have been passed in vain. + +The first voyage has settled the dubious point of a practicable +North-West passage; and I trust it has set that long agitated question +at rest, and extinguished the disputes respecting it for ever. An +enlarged discussion of that subject will be found to occupy the +concluding pages of this volume. + +In this voyage, I was not only without the necessary books and +instruments, but also felt myself deficient in the sciences of astronomy +and navigation; I did not hesitate, therefore, to undertake a winter's +voyage to this country, in order to procure the one, and acquire the +other. These objects being accomplished, I returned, to determine the +practicability of a commercial communication through the continent of +North America, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, which is proved +by my second journal. Nor do I hesitate to declare my decided opinion, +that very great and essential advantages may be derived by extending our +trade from one sea to the other. + +Some account of the fur trade of Canada from that country, of the native +inhabitants, and of the extensive districts connected with it, forms a +preliminary discourse, which will, I trust, prove interesting to a +nation, whose general policy is blended with, and whose prosperity is +supported by, the pursuits of commerce. It will also qualify the reader +to pursue the succeeding voyages with superior intelligence and +satisfaction. + +These voyages will not, I fear, afford the variety that may be expected +from them; and that which they offered to the eye, is not of a nature to +be effectually transferred to the page. Mountains and valleys, the +dreary waste, and the wide-spreading forests, the lakes and rivers +succeed each other in general description; and, except on the coasts of +the Pacific Ocean, where the villages were permanent, and the +inhabitants in a great measure stationary, small bands of wandering +Indians are the only people whom I shall introduce to the acquaintance +of my readers. + +The beaver and the buffalo, the moose-deer and the elk, which are the +principal animals to be found in these countries, are already so +familiar to the naturalists of Europe, and have been so often as well as +correctly described in their works, that the bare mention of them, as +they enlivened the landscape, or were hunted for food; with a cursory +account of the soil, the course and navigation of lakes and rivers, and +their various produce, is all that can be reasonably expected from me. + +I do not possess the science of the naturalist; and even if the +qualifications of that character had been attained by me, its curious +spirit would not have been gratified. I could not stop to dig into the +earth, over whose surface I was compelled to pass with rapid steps; nor +could I turn aside to collect the plants which nature might have +scattered on the way, when my thoughts were anxiously employed in making +provision for the day that was passing over me. I had to encounter +perils by land and perils by water; to watch the savage who was our +guide, or to guard against those of his tribe who might meditate our +destruction. I had, also, the passions and fears of others to control +and subdue. To-day, I had to assuage the rising discontents, and on the +morrow, to cheer the fainting spirits of the people who accompanied me. +The toil of our navigation was incessant, and oftentimes extreme; and in +our progress over land, we had no protection from the severity of the +elements, and possessed no accommodations or conveniences but such as +could be contained in the burden on our shoulders, which aggravated the +toils of our march, and added to the wearisomeness of our way. + +Though the events which compose my journals may have little in +themselves to strike the imagination of those who love to be astonished, +or to gratify the curiosity of such as are enamoured of romantic +adventures; nevertheless, when it is considered, that I explored those +waters which had never before borne any other vessel than the canoe of +the savage; and traversed those deserts where an European had never +before presented himself to the eye of its swarthy natives; when to +these considerations are added the important objects which were pursued, +with the dangers that were encountered, and the difficulties that were +surmounted to attain them, this work will, I flatter myself, be found to +excite an interest, and conciliate regard, in the minds of those who +peruse it. + +The general map which illustrates this volume, is reduced by +Mr. Arrowsmith from his three-sheet map of North America, with the +latest discoveries, which he is about to republish. His professional +abilities are well known, and no encomium of mine will advance the +general and merited opinion of them. + +Before I conclude, I must beg leave to inform my readers, that they are +not to expect the charms of embellished narrative, or animated +description; the approbation due to simplicity and to truth, is all I +presume to claim; and I am not without the hope that this claim will be +allowed me. I have described whatever I saw with the impressions of the +moment which presented it to me. The successive circumstances of my +progress are related without exaggeration or display. I have seldom +allowed myself to wander into conjecture; and whenever conjecture has +been indulged, it will be found, I trust, to be accompanied with the +temper of a man who is not disposed to think too highly of himself: and +if, at any time, I have delivered myself with confidence, it will +appear, I hope, to be on those subjects, which, from the habits and +experience of my life, will justify an unreserved communication of my +opinions. I am not a candidate for literary fame; at the same time, I +cannot but indulge the hope that this volume, with all its +imperfections, will not be thought unworthy the attention of the +scientific geographer; and that, by unfolding countries hitherto +unexplored, and which, I presume, may now be considered as a part of the +British dominions, it will be received as a faithful tribute to the +prosperity of my country. + +ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. + +London, +November 30, 1801. + + + + +Table of Contents. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Embarked at Fort Chepewyan, on the Lake of the + Hills, in company with M. Le Roux. Account + of the party, provisions, etc. Direction of the + course. Enter one of the branches of the Lake. + Arrive in the Peace River. Appearance of the + land. Navigation of the river. Arrive at the + mouth of the Dog River. Successive description + of several carrying places. A canoe lost in one of + the Falls. Encamp on Point de Roche. Course + continued. Set the nets, etc. Arrive at the Slave + Lake. The weather extremely cold. Banks of + the river described, with its trees, soil, etc. + Account of the animal productions, and the fishery + of the Lake. Obliged to wait till the moving of + the ice. Three families of Indians arrive from + Athabasca, Beavers, geese, and swans killed. + The nets endangered by ice. Re-embark and land + on a small island. Course continued along the + shores, and across the bays of the Lake. Various + successes of the hunters. Steer for an island where + there was plenty of cranberries and small onions. + Kill several reindeer. Land on an island named + Isle a la Cache. Clouds of mosquitoes. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Landed at some lodges of Red-Knife Indians: procure + one of them to assist in navigating the bays + Conference with the Indians. Take leave of M. + Le Roux, and continue the voyage. Different + appearances of the land; its vegetable produce. + Visit an island where the wood had been felled. + Further description of the coast. Plenty of rein + and moose-deer, and white partridges. Enter a + very deep bay. Interrupted by ice. Very blowing + weather, Continue to cross the bay. Arrive + at the mouth of a river. Great numbers of fish + and wild-fowl. Description of the land on either + side. Curious appearance of woods that had been + burned. Came in sight of the Horn Mountain. + Continue to kill geese and swans, etc. Violent + storm. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Continued our course. The river narrows. Lost + the lead. Passed a small river. Violent rain. + Land on a small island. Expect to arrive at the + rapid. Conceal two bags of pemmican in an island. + A view of mountains. Pass several encampments + of the natives. Arrive among the islands. + Ascend a high hill. Violence of the current. + Ice seen along the banks of the river. + Land at village of the natives. Their conduct + and appearance. Their fabulous stories. The + English chief and Indians discontented. Obtain + a new guide. Singular customs of the natives. + An account of their dances. Description of their + persons, dress, ornaments, buildings, arms for war + and hunting, canoes, etc. Passed on among islands. + Encamped beneath a hill, and prevented + from ascending by the mosquitoes. Landed at an + encampment. Conduct of the inhabitants. They + abound in fabulous accounts of dangers. Land + at other encampments. Procure plenty of hares + and partridges. Our guide anxious to return. + Land and alarm the natives, called the Hare Indians, + etc. Exchange our guide. State of the weather. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +The new guide makes his escape. Compel another + to supply his place. Land at an encampment of + another tribe of Indians. Account of their manners, + dress, weapons, etc. Traffic with them. + Description of a beautiful fish. Engage another + guide. His curious behaviour. Kill a fox and + ground-hog. Land at an encampment of a tribe + called the Deguthee Denees, or Quarrellers. Saw + flax growing wild. The varying character of the + river and its banks. Distant mountains. Perplexity + from the numerous channels of the river. + Determined to proceed. Land where there had + been an encampment of the Esquimaux. Saw + large flocks of wild-fowl. View of the sun at + midnight. Description of a place lately deserted + by the Indians. Houses of the natives described. + Frequent showers. Saw a black fox. The discontents + of our hunters renewed, and pacified. + Face of the country. Land at a spot lately inhabited. + Peculiar circumstances of it. Arrive at the + entrance of the lake. Proceed to an island. Some + account of it. + + +CHAPTER V. + +The baggage removed from the rising of the water. + One of the nets driven away by the wind and + current. Whales are seen. Go in pursuit of them, + but prevented from continuing it by the + fog. Proceed to take a view of the ice. Canoe + in danger from the swell. Examine the islands. + Describe one of them. Erect a post to perpetuate + our visit there. The rising of the water appears + to be the tide. Successful fishing. Uncertain + weather. Sail among the islands. Proceed to a + river. Temperature of the air improves. Land + on a small island, which is a place of sepulture. + Description of it. See a great number of wild fowl. + Fine view of the river from the high land. + The hunters kill reindeer. Cranberries, etc., found + in great plenty. The appearance and state of the + country. Our guide deserts. Large flight of + geese; kill many of them. Violent rain. Return + up the river. Leave the channels for the main + stream. Obliged to tow the canoe. Land among + the natives. Circumstances concerning them. + Their account of the Esquimaux Indians. + Accompany the natives to their huts. Account + of our provisions. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Employ the towing line. Description of a place + where the Indians come to collect flint. Their + shyness and suspicions. Current lessons. Appearance + of the country. Abundance of hares. + Violent storm. Land near three lodges. Alarm + of the Indians. Supply of fish from them. Their + fabulous accounts. Continue to see Indian lodges. + Treatment of a disease. Misunderstanding with + the natives. The interpreter harangues them. + Their accounts similar to those we have already + received. Their curious conduct. Purchase some + beaver skins. Shoot one of their dogs. The + consequence of that act. Apprehensions of the women. + Large quantities of liquorice. Swallows' nests + seen in the precipices. Fall in with a party of the + natives killing geese. Circumstances concerning + them. Hurricane. Variation of the weather. + Kill great numbers of geese. Abundance of several + kinds of berries. State of the river and its + bank. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Voyage continued. Suspect the integrity of the + interpreter. Stars visible. Springs of mineral + water, and lumps of iron ore. Arrive at the river + of the Bear Lake. Coal mine in a state of combustion. + Water of the river diminished, Continue + to see Indian encampments, and kill geese, + etc. Hunting excursions. A canoe found on the + edge of the wood. Attempt to ascend a mountain. + Account of the passage to it. See a few of + the natives. Kill a beaver and some hares. Design + of the English chief. Kill a wolf. Changeable + state of the weather. Recover the pemmican, + which had been hidden in an island. Natives fly + at our approach. Meet with dogs. Altercation + with the English chief. Account of the articles + left by the fugitives. Shoals of the river covered + with saline matter. Encamp at the mouth of the + river of the mountain. The ground on fire on + each side of it. Continue to see encampments of + the natives. Various kinds of berries. Kill geese, + swans, etc., etc., etc. Corroding quality of the + water. Weather changeable. Reach the entrance + of the Slave Lake. Dangers encountered on entering + it. Caught pike and trout. Met M. Le Roux + on the lake. Further circumstances till our + return to Fort Chepewyan. Conclusion of the voyage. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Leave Fort Chepewyan. Proceed to the Peace + River. State of the Lakes. Arrive at Peace + Point. The reason assigned for its name. The + weather cold. Arrive at the Falls. Description + of the country. Land at the Fort, called The Old + Establishment. The principal building destroyed + by fire. Course of the river. Arrive at another + fort. Some account of the natives. Depart from + thence. Course of the river continued, It divides + into two branches. Proceed along the principal + one. Land at the place of our winter's residence. + Account of its circumstances and inhabitants, etc. + Preparations for erecting a fort, etc., etc. Table + of the weather. Broke the thermometer. Frost + sets in. Description of birds. + + + + +A GENERAL HISTORY OF THE FUR TRADE +FROM CANADA TO THE NORTH-WEST. + + +The fur trade, from the earliest settlement of Canada, was considered of +the first importance to that colony. The country was then so populous, +that, in the vicinity of the establishments, the animals whose skins +were precious, in a commercial view, soon became very scarce, if not +altogether extinct. They were, it is true, hunted at former periods, +but merely for food and clothing. The Indians, therefore, to procure +the necessary supply, were encouraged, to penetrate into the country, +and were generally accompanied by some of the Canadians, who found means +to induce the remotest tribes of natives to bring the skins which were +most in demand, to their settlements, in the way of trade. + +It is not necessary for me to examine the cause, but experience proves +that it requires much less time for a civilized people to deviate into +the manners and customs of savage life, than for savages to rise into a +state of civilization. Such was the event with those who thus +accompanied the natives on their hunting and trading excursions; for +they became so attached to the Indian mode of life, that they lost all +relish for their former habits and native homes. Hence they derived the +title of _Coureurs des Bois_, became a kind of pedlars, and were +extremely useful to the merchants engaged in the fur trade; who gave +them the necessary credit to proceed on their commercial undertakings. +Three or four of these people would join their stock, put their property +into a birch-bark canoe, which they worked themselves, and either +accompanied the natives in their excursions, or went at once to the +country where they knew they were to hunt. At length, these voyages +extended to twelve or fifteen months, when they returned with rich +cargoes of furs, and followed by great numbers of the natives. During +the short time requisite to settle their accounts with the merchants, +and procure fresh credit, they generally contrived to squander away all +their gains, when they returned to renew their favourite mode of life: +their views being answered, and their labour sufficiently rewarded, by +indulging themselves in extravagance and dissipation, during the short +space of one month in twelve or fifteen. + +This indifference about amassing property, and the pleasure of living +free from all restraint, soon brought on a licentiousness of manners +which could not long escape the vigilant observation of the +missionaries, who had much reason to complain of their being a disgrace +to the Christian religion; by not only swerving from its duties +themselves, but by thus bringing it into disrepute with those of the +natives who had become converts to it; and, consequently, obstructing +the great object to which those pious men had devoted their lives. They +therefore exerted their influence to procure the suppression of these +people, and accordingly, no one was allowed to go up the country to +traffic with the Indians, without a license from the government. + +At first these permissions were, of course, granted only to those whose +character was such as could give no alarm to the zeal of the +missionaries: but they were afterwards bestowed as rewards for services, +on officers, and their widows; and they, who were not willing or able to +make use of them (which may be supposed to be always the case with those +of the latter description), were allowed to sell them to the merchants, +who necessarily employed the Coureurs des bois, in quality of their +agents; and these people, as may be imagined, gave sufficient cause for +the renewal of former complaints; so that the remedy proved, in fact, +worse than the disease. + +At length, military posts were established at the confluence of the +different large lakes of Canada, which, in a great measure checked the +evil consequences that followed from the improper conduct of these +foresters, and, at the same time, protected the trade. Besides, a +number of able and respectable men, retired from the army, prosecuted +the trade in person, under their respective licences, with great order +and regularity, and extended it to such a distance, as, in those days, +was considered to be an astonishing effort of commercial enterprize. +These persons and the missionaries having combined their views at the +same time, secured the respect of the natives, and the obedience of the +people necessarily employed in the laborious parts of this undertaking. +These gentlemen denominated themselves commanders, and not traders, +though they were entitled to both those characters: and, as for the +missionaries, if sufferings and hardships in the prosecution of the +great work which they had undertaken, deserved applause and admiration, +they had an undoubted claim to be admired and applauded: they spared no +labour and avoided no danger in the execution of their important office; +and it is to be seriously lamented, that their pious endeavours did not +meet with the success which they deserved: for there is hardly a trace +to be found beyond the cultivated parts, of their meritorious functions. + +The cause of this failure must be attributed to a want of due +consideration in the mode employed by the missionaries, to propagate the +religion of which they were the zealous ministers. They habituated +themselves to the savage life, and naturalized themselves to the savage +manners, and, by thus becoming dependent, as it were, on the natives, +they acquired their contempt rather than their veneration. If they had +been as well acquainted with human nature, as they were with the +articles of their faith, they would have known that the uncultivated +mind of an Indian must be disposed by much preparatory method and +instruction to receive the revealed truths of Christianity, to act under +its sanctions, and be impelled to good by the hope of its reward, or +turned from evil by the fear of its punishments. They should have begun +their work by teaching some of those useful arts which are the inlets of +knowledge, and lead the mind by degrees to objects of higher +comprehension. Agriculture, so formed to fix and combine society, and +so preparatory to objects of superior consideration, should have been +the first thing introduced among a savage people: it attaches the +wandering tribe to that spot where it adds so much to their comforts; +while it gives them a sense of property, and of lasting possession, +instead of the uncertain hopes of the chase, and the fugitive produce of +uncultivated wilds. Such were the means by which the forests of +Paraguay were converted into a scene of abundant cultivation, and its +savage inhabitants introduced to all the advantages of a civilized life. + +The Canadian missionaries should have been contented to improve the +morals of their own countrymen, so that by meliorating their character +and conduct, they would have given a striking example of the effect of +religion in promoting the comforts of life to the surrounding savages; +and might by degrees have extended its benign influence to the remotest +regions of that country, which was the object, and intended to be the +scene, of their evangelical labours. But by bearing the light of the +Gospel at once to the distance of two thousand five hundred miles from +the civilized part of the colonies, it was soon obscured by the cloud of +ignorance that darkened the human mind in those distant regions. + +The whole of their long route I have often travelled, and the +recollection of such a people as the missionaries having been there, was +confined to a few superannuated Canadians, who had not left that country +since the cession to the English, in 1763, and who particularly +mentioned the death of some, and the distressing situation of them all. +But if these religious men did not attain the objects of their +persevering piety, they were, during their mission, of great service to +the commanders who engaged in those distant expeditions, and spread the +fur trade as far West as the banks of the Saskatchiwine river, in +53. North latitude, and longitude 102. West. + + At an early period of their intercourse with the savages, a custom was +introduced of a very excellent tendency, but is now unfortunately +discontinued, of not selling any spirituous liquor to the natives. This +admirable regulation was for some time observed, with all the respect +due to the religion by which it was sanctioned, and whose severest +censures followed the violation of it. A painful penance could alone +restore the offender to the suspended rites of the sacrament. The +casuistry of trade, however, discovered a way to gratify the Indians +with their favourite cordial without incurring the ecclesiastical +penalties, by giving, instead of selling it to them. + +But notwithstanding all the restrictions with which commerce was +oppressed under the French government, the fur trade was extended to the +immense distance which has been already stated; and surmounted many most +discouraging difficulties, which will be hereafter noticed; while, at +the same time, no exertions were made from Hudson's Bay to obtain even a +share of the trade of a country, which according to the charter of that +company, belonged to it, and, from its proximity, is so much more +accessible to the mercantile adventurer. + +Of these trading commanders, I understood, that two attempted to +penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but the utmost extent of their journey I +could never learn; which may be attributed, indeed, to a failure of the +undertaking. + +For some time after the conquest of Canada, this trade was suspended, +which must have been very advantageous to the Hudson's-Bay Company, as +all the inhabitants to the westward of Lake Superior were obliged to go +to them for such articles as their habitual use had rendered necessary. +Some of the Canadians who had lived long with them, and were become +attached to a savage life, accompanied them thither annually, till +mercantile adventurers again appeared from their own country, after an +interval of several years, owing, as I suppose, to an ignorance of the +country in the conquerors, and their want of commercial confidence in +the conquered. There were, indeed, other discouragements, such as the +immense length of the journey necessary to reach the limits beyond which +this commerce must begin; the risk of property; the expenses attending +such a long transport; and an ignorance of the language of those who, +from their experience, must be necessarily employed as the intermediate +agents between them and the natives. But, notwithstanding these +difficulties, the trade, by degrees, began to spread over the different +parts to which it had been carried by the French, though at a great risk +of the lives, as well as the property of their new possessors, for the +natives had been taught by their former allies to entertain hostile +dispositions towards the English, from their having been in alliance +with their natural enemies the Iroquois; and there were not wanting a +sufficient number of discontented, disappointed people, to keep alive +such a notion; so that for a long time they were considered and treated +as objects of hostility. To prove this disposition of the Indians, we +have only to refer to the conduct of Pontiac, at Detroit, and the +surprise and taking of Michilimakinac, about this period. + +Hence it arose, that it was so late as the year 1766, before which, the +trade I mean to consider, commenced from Michilimakinac. The first who +attempted it were satisfied to go the length of the river Camenistiquia, +about thirty miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, where the +French had a principal establishment, and was the line of their +communication with the interior country. It was once destroyed by fire. +Here they went and returned successful in the following spring to +Michilimakinac. Their success induced them to renew their journey, and +incited others to follow their example. Some of them remained at +Camenistiquia, while others proceeded to and beyond the Grande Portage, +which, since that time has become the principal entrepot of that trade, +and is situated in a bay, in latitude 48. North, and longitude 90. West. +After passing the usual season there, they went back to Michilimakinac +as before, and encouraged by the trade, returned in increased numbers. +One of these, Thomas Curry, with a spirit of enterprize superior to that +of his contemporaries, determined to penetrate to the furthest limits of +the French discoveries in that country; or at least till the frost +should stop him. For this purpose he procured guides and interpreters, +who were acquainted with the country, and with four canoes arrived at +Fort Bourbon, which was one of their posts, at the West end of the Cedar +Lake, on the waters of the Saskatchiwine. His risk and toil were well +recompensed, for he came back the following spring with his canoes +filled with fine furs, with which he proceeded to Canada, and was +satisfied never again to return to the Indian country. + +From this period, people began to spread over every part of the country, +particularly where the French had established settlements. + +Mr. James Finlay was the first who followed Mr. Curry's example, and +with the same number of canoes, arrived, in the course of the next +season, at Nipawee, the last of the French settlements on the bank of +the Saskatchiwine river, in latitude nearly 43½. North, and longitude +103. West: he found the good fortune, as he followed, in every respect, +the example, of his predecessor. + +As may be supposed, there were now people enough ready to replace them, +and the trade was pursued with such avidity, and irregularity, that in a +few years it became the reverse of what it ought to have been. An +animated competition prevailed, and the contending parties carried the +trade beyond the French limits, though with no benefit to themselves or +neighbours, the Hudson's-Bay Company; who in the year 1774, and not till +then, thought proper to move from home to the East bank of Sturgeon +Lake, in latitude 53. 56. North, and longitude 102. 15. West, and became +more jealous of their fellow subjects; and, perhaps, with more cause, +than they had been of those of France. From this period, to the present +time, they have been following the Canadians to their different +establishments, while, on the contrary, there is not a solitary instance +that the Canadians have followed them; and there are many trading posts +which they have not yet attained. This, however, will no longer be a +mystery, when the nature and policy of the Hudson's-Bay Company is +compared with that, which has been pursued by their rivals in this +trade.--But to return to my subject. + +This competition, which has been already mentioned, gave a fatal blow to +the trade from Canada, and, with other incidental causes, in my opinion, +contributed to its ruin. This trade was carried on in a very distant +country, out of the reach of legal restraint, and where there was a free +scope given to any ways or means in attaining advantage. The +consequence was not only the loss of commercial benefit to the persons +engaged in it, but of the good opinion of the natives, and the respect +of their men, who were inclined to follow their example; so that with +drinking, carousing, and quarrelling with the Indians along their route, +and among themselves, they seldom reached their winter quarters; and if +they did, it was generally by dragging their property upon sledges, as +the navigation was closed up by the frost. When at length they were +arrived, the object of each was to injure his rival traders in the +opinion of the natives as much as was in their power, by +misrepresentation and presents, for which the agents employed were +peculiarly calculated. They considered the command of their employer as +binding on them, and however wrong or irregular the transaction, the +responsibility rested with the principal who directed them. This is +Indian law. Thus did they waste their credit and their property with +the natives, till the first was past redemption, and the last was nearly +exhausted; so that towards the spring in each year, the rival parties +found it absolutely necessary to join, and make one common stock of what +remained, for the purpose of trading with the natives, who could +entertain no respect for persons who had conducted themselves with so +much irregularity and deceit. The winter, therefore, was one continued +scene of disagreements and quarrels, If any one had the precaution or +good sense to keep clear of these proceedings, he derived a +proportionable advantage from his good conduct, and frequently proved a +peacemaker between the parties. To such an height had they carried this +licentious conduct, that they were in a continual state of alarm, and +were even frequently stopped to pay tribute on their route into the +country; though they had adopted the plan of travelling together in +parties of thirty or forty canoes, and keeping their men armed; which +sometimes, indeed, proved necessary for their defence. + +Thus was the trade carried on for several years, and consequently +becoming worse and worse, so that the partners, who met them at the +Grande Portage, naturally complained of their ill success. But specious +reasons were always ready to prove that it arose from circumstances +which they could not at that time control; and encouragements were held +forth to hope that a change would soon take place, which would make +ample amends for past disappointments. + +It was about this time, that Mr. Joseph Frobisher, one of the gentlemen +engaged in the trade, determined to penetrate into the country yet +unexplored, to the North and Westward, and, in the spring of the year +1775, met the Indians from that quarter on their way to Fort Churchill, +at Portage de Traite, so named from that circumstance, on the banks of +the Missinipi, or Churchill river, latitude 55. 25. North, longitude +103½. West. It was indeed, with some difficulty that he could induce +them to trade with him, but he at length procured as many furs as his +canoes could carry. In this perilous expedition he sustained every kind +of hardship incident to a journey through a wild and savage country, +where his subsistence depended on what the woods and the waters +produced. These difficulties, nevertheless, did not discourage him from +returning in the following year, when he was equally successful. He +then sent his brother to explore the country still further West, who +penetrated as far as the lake of Isle a la Crosse, in latitude +55. 26. North, and longitude 108. West. + +He, however, never after wintered among the Indians, though he retained +a large interest in the trade, and a principal share in the direction of +it till the year 1798, when he retired to enjoy the fruits of his +labours; and, by his hospitality, became known to every respectable +stranger who visited Canada. + +The success of this gentleman induced others to follow his example, and +in the spring of the year 1778, some of the traders on the Saskatchiwine +river, finding they had a quantity of goods to spare, agreed to put them +into a joint stock, and gave the charge and management of them to +Mr. Peter Pond, who, in four canoes, was directed to enter the English +River, so called by Mr. Frobisher, to follow his track, and proceed +still further; if possible, to Athabasca, a country hitherto unknown but +from Indian report. In this enterprise he at length succeeded and +pitched his tent on the banks of the Elk river, by him erroneously +called the Athabasca river, about forty miles from the Lake of the +Hills, into which it empties itself. + +Here he passed the winter of 1778-9; saw a vast concourse of the +Knisteneaux and Chepewyan tribes, who used to carry their furs annually +to Churchill; the latter by the barren grounds, where they suffered +innumerable hardships, and were sometimes even starved to death. The +former followed the course of the lakes and rivers, through a country +that abounded in animals, and where there was plenty of fish: but though +they did not suffer from want of food, the intolerable fatigue of such a +journey could not be easily repaid to an Indian: they were, therefore, +highly gratified by seeing people come to their country to relieve them +from such long, toilsome, and dangerous journeys; and were immediately +reconciled to give an advanced price for the articles necessary to their +comfort and convenience. Mr. Pond's reception and success was +accordingly beyond his expectation; and he procured twice as many furs +as his canoes would carry. They also supplied him with as much +provision as he required during his residence among them, and sufficient +for his homeward voyage. Such of the furs as he could not embark, he +secured in one of his winter huts, and they were found the following +season, in the same state in which he left them. + +These, however, were but partial advantages, and could not prevent the +people of Canada from seeing the improper conduct of some of their +associates, which rendered it dangerous to remain any longer among the +natives. Most of them who passed the winter at the Saskatchiwine, got +to the Eagle hills, where, in the spring of the year 1780, a few days +previous to their intended departure, a large band of Indians being +engaged in drinking about their houses, one of the traders, to ease +himself of the troublesome importunities of a native, gave him a dose of +laudanum in a glass of grog, which effectually prevented him from giving +further trouble to any one, by setting him asleep for ever. This +accident produced a fray, in which one of the traders, and several of +the men were killed, while the rest had no other means to save +themselves but by a precipitate flight, abandoning a considerable +quantity of goods, and near half the furs which they had collected +during the winter and the spring. + +About the same time, two of the establishments on the Assiniboin river, +were attacked with less justice, when several white men, and a great +number of Indians were killed. In short, it appeared, that the natives +had formed a resolution to extirpate the traders; and, without entering +into any further reasonings on the subject, it appears to be +incontrovertible, that the irregularity pursued in carrying on the trade +has brought it into its present forlorn situation; and nothing but the +greatest calamity that could have befallen the natives, saved the +traders from destruction: this was the small-pox, which spread its +destructive and desolating power, as the fire consumes the dry grass of +the field. The fatal infection spread around with a baneful rapidity +which no flight could escape, and with a fatal effect that nothing could +resist. It destroyed with its pestilential breath whole families and +tribes; and the horrid scene presented to those who had the melancholy +and afflicting opportunity of beholding it, a combination of the dead, +the dying, and such as to avoid the horrid fate of their friends around +them, prepared to disappoint the plague of its prey, by terminating their +own existence. + +The habits and lives of these devoted people, which provided not to-day +for the wants of to-morrow, must have heightened the pains of such an +affliction, by leaving them not only without remedy, but even without +alleviation. Naught was left them but to submit in agony and despair. + +To aggravate the picture, if aggravation were possible, may be added, +the putrid carcases which the wolves, with a furious voracity, dragged +forth from the huts, or which were mangled within them by the dogs, +whose hunger was satisfied with the disfigured remains of their masters. +Nor was it uncommon for the father of a family, whom the infection had +not reached, to call them around him to represent the cruel sufferings +and horrid fate of their relations, from the influence of some evil +spirit who was preparing to extirpate their race; and to incite them to +baffle death, with all its horrors, by their own poniards. At the same +time, if their hearts failed them in this necessary act, he was himself +ready to perform the deed of mercy with his own hand, as the last act of +his affection, and instantly to follow them to the common place of rest +and refuge from human evil. + +It was never satisfactorily ascertained by what means this malignant +disorder was introduced, but it was generally supposed to be from the +Missisouri, by a war party. + +The consequence of this melancholy event to the traders must be +self-evident; the means of disposing of their goods were cut off; and no +furs were obtained, but such as had been gathered from the habitations +of the deceased Indians, which could not be very considerable: nor did +they look from the losses of the present year, with any encouraging +expectations to those which were to come. The only fortunate people +consisted of a party who had again penetrated to the Northward and +Westward in 1780, at some distance up the Missinipi, or English river, +to Lake la Ronge. Two unfortunate circumstances, however, happened to +them; which are as follow: + +Mr. Wadin, a Swiss gentleman, of strict probity and known sobriety, had +gone there in the year 1779, and remained during the summer of 1780. +His partners and others, engaged in an opposite interest, when at the +Grande Portage, agreed to send a quantity of goods on their joint +account, which was accepted, and Mr. Pond was proposed by them to be +their representative to act in conjunction with Mr. Wadin. Two men, of +more opposite characters, could not, perhaps, have been found. In +short, from various causes, their situations became very uncomfortable +to each other, and mutual ill-will was the natural consequence: without +entering, therefore, into a minute history of these transactions, it +will be sufficient to observe, that, about the end of the year 1780, or +the beginning of 1781, Mr. Wadin had received Mr. Pond and one of his +own clerks to dinner; and, in the course of the night, the former was +shot through the lower part of the thigh, when it was said that he +expired from the loss of blood, and was buried next morning at eight +o'clock. Mr. Pond, and the clerk, were tried for this murder at +Montreal, and acquitted: nevertheless, their innocence was not so +apparent as to extinguish the original suspicion. + +The other circumstance was this. In the spring of the year, Mr. Pond +sent the abovementioned clerk to meet the Indians from the Northward, +who used to go annually to Hudson's Bay; when he easily persuaded them +to trade with him, and return back, that they might not take the +contagion which had depopulated the country to the Eastward of them: but +most unfortunately they caught it here, and carried it with them, to the +destruction of themselves and the neighbouring tribes. + +The country being thus depopulated, the traders and their friends from +Canada, who, from various causes already mentioned, were very much +reduced in number, became confined to two parties, who began seriously +to think of making permanent establishments on the Missinipi river, and +at Athabasca; for which purpose, in 1781-2, they selected their best +canoe-men, being ignorant that the small-pox penetrated that way. The +most expeditious party got only in time to the Portage la Loche, or +Mithy-Ouinigam, which divides the waters of the Missinipi from those +that fall into the Elk river, to despatch one canoe strong-handed, and +light-loaded, to that country; but, on their arrival there, they found, +in every direction, the ravages of the small-pox; so that, from the +great diminution of the natives, they returned in the spring with no +more than seven packages of beaver. The strong woods and mountainous +countries afforded a refuge to those who fled from the contagion of the +plains; but they were so alarmed at the surrounding destruction, that +they avoided the traders, and were dispirited from hunting, except for +their subsistence. The traders, however, who returned into the country +in the year 1782-3, found the inhabitants in some sort of tranquillity, +and more numerous than they had reason to expect, so that their success +was proportionably better. + +During the winter of 1783-4, the merchants of Canada, engaged in this +trade, formed a junction of interests, under the name of the North-West +Company, and divided it into sixteen shares, without depositing any +capital; each party furnishing a proportion or quota of such articles as +were necessary to carry on the trade: the respective parties agreeing to +satisfy the friends they had in the country, who were not provided for, +according to this agreement, out of the proportions which they held. +The management of the whole was accordingly entrusted to +Messrs. Benjamin and Joseph Frobisher, and Mr. Simon M'Tavish, two +distinct houses, who had the greatest interest and influence in the +country, and for which they were to receive a stipulated commission in +all transactions. + +In the spring, two of those gentlemen went to the Grande Portage with +their credentials, which were confirmed and ratified by all the parties +having an option, except Mr. Peter Pond, who was not satisfied with the +share allotted him. Accordingly he, and another gentleman, Mr. Peter +Pangman, who had a right to be a partner, but for whom no provision had +been made, came to Canada, with a determination to return to the +country, if they could find any persons to join them, and give their +scheme a proper support. + +The traders in the country, and merchants at Montreal, thus entered into +a co-partnership, which, by these means, was consolidated and directed +by able men, who, from the powers with which they were entrusted, would +carry on the trade to the utmost extent it would bear. The traders in +the country, therefore, having every reason to expect that their past +and future labours would be recompensed, forgot all their former +animosities, and engaged with the utmost spirit and activity, to forward +the general interest; so that, in the following year, they met their +agents at the Grande Portage, with their canoes laden with rich furs +from the different parts of that immense tract of country. But this +satisfaction was not to be enjoyed without some interruption; and they +were mortified to find that Mr. Pangman had prevailed on Messrs. Gregory +and Macleod to join him, and give him their support in the business, +though deserted by Mr. Pond, who accepted the terms offered by his +former associates. + +In the counting-house of Mr. Gregory I had been five years; and at this +period had left him, with a small adventure of goods, with which he had +entrusted me, to seek my fortune at Detroit. He, without any +solicitation on my part, had procured an insertion in the agreement, +that I should be admitted a partner in this business, on condition that +I would proceed to the Indian country in the following spring, 1785. +His partner came to Detroit to make me such a proposition. I readily +assented to it, and immediately proceeded to the Grande Portage, where I +joined my associates. + +We now found that independent of the natural difficulties of the +undertaking, we should have to encounter every other which they, who +were already in possession of the trade of the country, could throw in +our way, and which their circumstances enabled them to do. Nor did they +doubt, from their own superior experience, as well as that of their +clerks and men, with their local knowledge of the country and its +inhabitants, that they should soon compel us to leave the country to +them. The event, however, did not justify their expectations; for, +after the severest struggle ever known in that part of the world, and +suffering every oppression which a jealous and rival spirit could +instigate; after the murder of one of our partners, the laming of +another, and the narrow escape of one of our clerks, who received a +bullet through his powder horn, in the execution of his duty, they were +compelled to allow us a share of the trade. As we had already incurred +a loss, this union was, in every respect, a desirable event to us, and +was concluded in the month of July, 1787. + +This commercial establishment was now founded on a more solid basis than +any hitherto known in the country; and it not only continued in full +force, vigour, and prosperity, in spite of all interference from Canada, +but maintained at least an equal share of advantage with the +Hudson's-Bay Company, notwithstanding the superiority of their local +situation. The following account of this self-erected concern will +manifest the cause of its success. + +It assumed the title of the North-West Company, and was no more than an +association of commercial men, agreeing among themselves to carry on the +fur trade, unconnected with any other business, though many of the +parties engaged had extensive concerns altogether foreign to it. It may +be said to have been supported entirely upon credit; for, whether the +capital belonged to the proprietor, or was borrowed, it equally bore +interest, for which the association was annually accountable. It +consisted of twenty shares, unequally divided among the persons +concerned. Of these, a certain proportion was held by the people who +managed the business in Canada, and were styled agents for the Company. +Their duty was to import the necessary goods from England, store them at +their own expense at Montreal, get them made up into articles suited to +the trade, pack and forward them, and supply the cash that might be +wanting for the outfits, for which they received, independent of the +profit on their shares, a commission on the amount of the accounts, +which they were obliged to make out annually, and keep the adventure of +each year distinct. Two of them went annually to the Grande Portage, to +manage and transact the business there, and on the communication at +Detroit, Michilimakinac, St. Mary's, and at Montreal, where they +received, stored, packed up, and shipped the company's furs for England, +on which they had also a small commission. The remaining shares were +held by the proprietors, who were obliged to winter and manage the +business of the concern with the Indians, and their respective clerks, +etc. They were not supposed to be under any obligation to furnish +capital, or even credit. If they obtained any capital by the trade, it +was to remain in the hands of the agents; for which they were allowed +interest. Some of them, from their long services and influence, held +double shares, and were allowed to retire from the business at any +period of the existing concern, with one of those shares, naming any +young man in the company's service to succeed him in the other. +Seniority and merit were, however, considered as affording a claim to +the succession, which, nevertheless, could not be disposed of without +the concurrence of the majority of the concern; who, at the same time, +relieved the seceding person from any responsibility respecting the +share that he transferred, and accounted for it according to the annual +value or rate of the property; so that the seller could have no +advantage, but that of getting the share of stock which he retained +realised, and receiving for the transferred share what was fairly +determined to be the worth of it. The former was also discharged from +all duty, and became a dormant partner. Thus, all the young men who +were not provided for at the beginning of the contract, succeeded in +succession to the character and advantages of partners. They entered +into the Company's service for five or seven years, under such +expectations, and their reasonable prospects were seldom disappointed: +there were, indeed, instances when they succeeded to shares, before +their apprenticeship was expired, and it frequently happened, that they +were provided for while they were in a state of articled clerkship. +Shares were transferable only to the concern at large, as no person +could be admitted as a partner who had not served his time to the trade. +The dormant partner indeed might dispose of his interest to any one he +chose, but if the transaction was not acknowledged by his associates, +the purchaser could only be considered as his agent or attorney. Every +share had a vote, and two-thirds formed a majority. This regular and +equitable mode of providing for the clerks of the company, excited a +spirit of emulation in the discharge of their various duties, and in +fact, made every agent a principal, who perceived his own prosperity to +be immediately connected with that of his employers. Indeed, without +such a spirit, such a trade could not have become so extended and +advantageous, as it has been and now is. + +In 1788, the gross amount of the adventure for the year did not exceed +forty thousand pounds,[1] but by the exertion, enterprise, and industry +of the proprietors, it was brought, in eleven years, to triple that +amount and upwards; yielding proportionate profits, and surpassing, in +short, any thing known in America. + +Such, therefore, being the prosperous state of the company, it, very +naturally, tempted others to interfere with the concern in a manner by +no means beneficial to the company, and commonly ruinous to the +undertakers. + +In 1798 the concern underwent a new form, the shares were increased to +forty-six, new partners being admitted, and others retiring. This +period was the termination of the company, which was not renewed by all +the parties concerned in it, the majority continuing to act upon the old +stock, and under the old firm; the others beginning a new one; and it +now remains to be decided, whether two parties, under the same +regulations and by the same exertions, though unequal in number, can +continue to carry on the business to a successful issue. The contrary +opinion has been held, which if verified, will make it the interest of +the parties again to coalesce; for neither is deficient in capital to +support their obstinacy in a losing trade, as it is not to be supposed +that either will yield on any other terms than perpetual participation. + +It will not be superfluous in this place, to explain the general mode of +carrying on the fur trade. + +The agents are obliged to order the necessary goods from England in the +month of October, eighteen months before they can leave Montreal; that +is, they are not shipped from London until the spring following, when +they arrive in Canada in the summer. In the course of the following +winter they are made up into such articles as are required for the +savages; they are then packed into parcels of ninety pounds weight each, +but cannot be sent from Montreal until the May following; so that they +do not get to market until the ensuing winter, when they are exchanged +for furs, which come to Montreal the next fall, and from thence are +shipped, chiefly to London, where they are not sold or paid for before +the succeeding spring, or even as late as June; which is forty-two +months after the goods were ordered in Canada; thirty-six after they had +been shipped from England, and twenty-four after they had been forwarded +from Montreal; so that the merchant, allowing that he has twelve months' +credit, does not receive a return to pay for those goods, and the +necessary expenses attending them, which is about equal to the value of +the goods themselves, till two years after they are considered as cash, +which makes this a very heavy business. There is even a small +proportion of it that requires twelve months longer to bring round the +payment, going to, the immense distance it is carried, and from the +shortness of the seasons, which prevents the furs, even after they are +collected, from coming out of the country for that period.[2] + +The articles necessary for this trade, are coarse woollen cloths of +different kinds; milled blankets of different sizes; arms and +ammunition; twist and carrot tobacco; Manchester goods; linens, and +coarse sheetings; thread, lines, and twine; common hardware; cutlery and +ironmongery of several descriptions; kettles of brass and copper, and +sheet-iron; silk and cotton handkerchiefs, hats, shoes, and hose; +calicoes and printed cottons, etc., etc., etc. Spirituous liquors and +provisions are purchased in Canada. These, and the expense of transport +to and from the Indian country, including wages to clerks, interpreters, +guides, and canoe-men, with the expense of making up the goods for the +market, form about half the annual amount against the adventure. + +This expenditure in Canada ultimately tends to the encouragement of +British manufactory, for those who are employed in the different +branches of this business, are enabled by their gains to purchase such +British articles as they must otherwise forego. + +The produce of the year of which I am now speaking, consisted of the +following furs and peltries: + + 106,000 Beaver skins, 6,000 Lynx skins, + 2,100 Bear skins, 600 Wolverine skins, + 1,500 Fox skins, 1,650 Fisher skins, + 4,000 Kitt Fox skins 100 Rackoon skins, + 4,600 Otter skins, 8,800 Wolf skins, + 17,000 Musquash skins, 700 Elk skins, + 32,000 Marten skins, 750 Deer skins, + 1,800 Mink skins, 1,200 Deer skins dressed, + 500 Buffalo robes, and quantity of castorum. + +Of these were diverted from the British market, being sent through the +United States to China, 13,364 skins, fine beaver, weighing 19,283 +pounds; 1,250 fine otters, and 1,724 kitt foxes. They would have found +their way to the China market at any rate, but this deviation from the +British channel arose from the following circumstance: + +An adventure of this kind was undertaken by a respectable house in +London, half concerned with the North-West Company, in the year 1792. +The furs were of the best kind, and suitable to the market; and the +adventurers continued this connexion for five successive years, to the +annual amount of forty thousand pounds. At the winding up of the +concern of 1792, 1793, 1794, 1795, in the year 1797 (the adventure of +1796 not being included, as the furs were not sent to China, but +disposed of in London), the North-West Company experienced a loss of +upwards of £40,000 (their half), which was principally owing to +the difficulty of getting home the produce procured in return for the +furs from China, in the East India Company's ships, together with the +duty payable, and the various restrictions of that company. Whereas, +from America there are no impediments; they get immediately to market, +and the produce of them is brought back, and perhaps sold in the course +of twelve months. From such advantages, the furs of Canada will no +doubt find their way to China by America, which would not be the case if +British subjects had the same privileges that are allowed to foreigners, +as London would then be found the best and safest market. + +But to return to our principal subject. We shall now proceed to +consider the number of men employed in the concern: viz., fifty clerks, +seventy-one interpreters and clerks, one thousand one hundred and twenty +canoe-men, and thirty-five guides. Of these, five clerks, eighteen +guides, and three hundred and fifty canoe-men, were employed for the +summer season in going from Montreal to the Grande Portage, in canoes, +part of whom proceeded from thence to Rainy Lake, as will be hereafter +explained, and are called Pork-eaters, or Goers and Comers. These were +hired in Canada or Montreal, and were absent from the 1st of May till +the latter end of September. For this trip the guides had from eight +hundred to a thousand livres, and, a suitable equipment; the foreman and +steersman from four to six hundred livres; the middle-men from two +hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty livres, with an equipment +of one blanket, one shirt, and one pair of trowsers; and were maintained +during that period at the expense of their employers. Independent of +their wages, they were allowed to traffic, and many of them earned to +the amount of their wages. About one-third of these went to winter, and +had more than double the above wages and equipment. All the winterers +were hired by the year, and sometimes for three years; and of the clerks +many were apprentices, who were generally engaged for five or seven +years, for which they had only one hundred pounds, provision and +clothing. Such of them who could not be provided for as partners, at +the expiration of this time, were allowed from one hundred pounds to +three hundred pounds per annum, with all necessaries, till provision was +made for them. Those who acted in the two-fold capacity of clerk and +interpreter, or were so denominated, had no other expectation than the +payment of wages to the amount of from one thousand to four thousand +livres per annum, with clothing and provisions. The guides, who are a +very useful set of men, acted also in the additional capacity of +interpreters, and had a stated quantity of goods, considered as +sufficient for their wants, their wages being from one to three thousand +livres. The canoe-men are of two descriptions, foremen and steersmen, +and middlemen. The two first were allowed annually one thousand two +hundred, and the latter eight hundred, livres each. The first class had +what is called an equipment, consisting of two blankets, two shirts, two +pair of trowsers, two handkerchiefs, fourteen pounds of carrot tobacco, +and some trifling articles. The latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and +all the other articles: those are called North Men, or Winterers; and to +the last class of people were attached upwards of seven hundred Indian +women and children, victualled at the expence of the company. + +The first class of people are hired in Montreal five months before they +set out, and receive their equipments, and one-third of their wages in +advance; and an adequate idea of the labour they undergo, may be formed +from the following account of the country through which they pass, and +their manner of proceeding. + +The necessary number of canoes being purchased, at about three hundred +livres each, the goods formed into packages, and the lakes and rivers +free of ice, which they usually are in the beginning of May, they are +then despatched from La Chine, eight miles above Montreal, with eight or +ten men in each canoe, and their baggage; and sixty-five packages of +goods, six hundred weight of biscuit, two hundred weight of pork, three +bushels of pease, for the men's provision; two oil-cloths to cover the +goods, a sail, etc., an axe, a towing-line, a kettle, and a sponge to +bail out the water, with a quantity of gum, bark, and watape, to repair +the vessel. An European on seeing one of these slender vessels thus +laden, heaped up, and sunk with her gunwale within six inches of the +water, would think his fate inevitable in such a boat, when he reflected +on the nature of her voyage; but the Canadians are so expert that few +accidents happen. + +Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann's, within two miles of the +Western extremity of the island of Montreal, the lake of the two +mountains being in sight, which may be termed the commencement of the +Utawas river. At the rapid of St. Ann they are obliged to take out +part, if not the whole of their lading. It is from this spot that the +Canadians consider they take their departure, as it possesses the last +church on the island, which is dedicated to the tutelar saint of +voyages. + +The lake of the two mountains is about twenty miles long, but not more +than three wide, and surrounded by cultivated fields, except the +Seignory belonging to the clergy, though nominally in possession of the +two tribes of Iroquois and Algonquins, whose village is situated on a +delightful point of land under the hills, which, by the title of +mountains, give a name to the lake. Near the extremity of the point +their church is built, which divides the village in two parts, forming a +regular angle along the water side. On the East is the station of the +Algonquins, and on the West, one of the Iroquois, consisting in all of +about five hundred warriors. Each party has its missionary, and divine +worship is performed according to the rites of the Roman Catholic +religion, in their respective languages in the same church: and so +assiduous have their pastors been, that these people have been +instructed in reading and writing in their own language, and are better +instructed than the Canadian inhabitants of the country of the lower +ranks: but notwithstanding these advantages, and though the +establishment is nearly coeval with the colonization of the country, +they do not advance towards a state of civilization, but retain their +ancient habits, language, and customs, and are becoming every day more +depraved, indigent, and insignificant. The country around them, though +very capable of cultivation, presents only a few miserable patches of +ground, sown by the women with maize and vegetables. During the winter +season, they leave their habitations, and pious pastors, to follow the +chase, according to the custom of their forefathers. Such is, indeed, +the state of all the villages near the cultivated parts of Canada. But +we shall now leave them to proceed on our voyage. + +At the end of the lake the water contracts into the Utawas river, which, +after a course of fifteen miles, is interrupted by a succession of +rapids and cascades for upwards of ten miles, at the foot of which the +Canadian Seignories terminate; and all above them were waste land, till +the conclusion of the American war, when they were surveyed by order of +government, and granted to the officers and men of the eighty-fourth +regiment, when reduced; but principally to the former, and consequently +little inhabited, though very capable of cultivation. + +The voyagers are frequently obliged to unload their canoes, and carry +the goods upon their backs, or rather suspended in slings from their +heads. Each man's ordinary load is two packages, though some carry +three. Here the canoe is towed by a strong line. There are some places +where the ground will not admit of their carrying the whole; they then +make two trips, that is, leave half their lading, and go and land it at +the distance required; and then return for that which was left. In this +distance are three carrying-places, the length of which depends in a +great measure upon the state of the water, whether higher or lower; from +the last of these the river is about a mile and a half wide, and has a +regular current for about sixty miles, when it ends at the first Portage +de Chaudiere, where the body of water falls twenty-five feet, over +cragged, excavated rocks, in a most wild, romantic manner. At a small +distance below, is the river Rideau on the left, falling over a +perpendicular rock, near forty feet high, in one sheet, assuming the +appearance of a curtain; and from which circumstance it derives its +name. To this extent the lands have been surveyed, as before observed, +and are very fit for culture. Many loyalists are settled upon the river +Rideau, and have, I am told, thriving plantations. Some American +families preferring the British territory, have also established +themselves along a river on the opposite side, where the soil is +excellent. Nor do I think the period is far distant, when the lands +will become settled from this vicinity to Montreal. + +Over this portage, which is six hundred and forty-three paces long, the +canoe and all the lading is carried. The rock is so steep and difficult +of access, that it requires twelve men to take the canoe out of the +water: it is then carried by six men, two at each end on the same side, +and two under the opposite gunwale in the middle. From hence to the +next is but a short distance, in which they make two trips to the second +Portage de Chaudiere, which is seven hundred paces, to carry the loading +alone. From hence to the next and last Chaudiere, or Portage des +Chenes, is about six miles, with a very strong current, where the goods +are carried seven hundred and forty paces; the canoe being towed up by +the line, when the water is not very high. We now enter Lac des +Chaudieres, which is computed to be thirty miles in length. Though it +is called a lake, there is a strong draught downwards, and its breadth +is from two to four miles. At the end of this is the Portage des Chats, +over which the canoe and lading are carried two hundred and seventy-four +paces; and very difficult it is for the former. The river is here +barred by a ridge of black rock, rising in pinnacles and covered with +wood, which, from the small quantity of soil that nourishes it, is low +and stinted. The river finds its way over and through these rocks, in +numerous channels, falling fifteen feet and upwards. From hence two +trips are made through a serpentine channel, formed by the rocks, for +several miles, when the current slackens, and is accordingly called the +Lac des Chats. To the channels of the grand Calumet, which are computed +to be at the distance of eighteen miles, the current recovers its +strength, and proceeds to the Portage Dufort, which is two hundred and +forty-five paces long; over which the canoe and baggage are transported. +From hence the current becomes more rapid, and requires two trips to the +Decharge des Sables,[3] where the goods are carried one hundred and +thirty-five paces, and the canoe towed. Then follows the Mountain +Portage, where the canoe and lading are also carried three hundred and +eighty-five paces; then to the Decharge of the Derige, where the goods +are carried two hundred and fifty paces; and thence to the grand +Calumet. This is the longest carrying-place in this river, and is about +two thousand and thirty-five paces. It is a high hill or mountain. +From the upper part of this Portage the current is steady, and is only a +branch of the Utawas river, which joins the main channel, that keeps a +more Southern course, at the distance of twelve computed leagues. Six +leagues further it forms Lake Coulonge, which is about four leagues in +length; from thence it proceeds through the channels of the Allumettes +to the decharge, where part of the lading is taken out, and carried +three hundred and forty-two paces. Then succeeds the Portage des +Allumettes, which is but twenty-five paces, over a rock difficult of +access, and at a very short distance from Decharge. From Portage de +Chenes to this spot, is a fine deer-hunting country, and the land in +many places very fit for cultivation. From hence the river spreads +wide, and is full of islands, with some current for seven leagues, to +the beginning of _Riviere Creuse_, or Deep River, which runs in the form +of a canal, about a mile and a half wide, for about thirty-six miles; +bounded upon the North by very high rocks, with low land on the South, +and sandy; it is intercepted again by falls and cataracts, so that the +Portages of the two Joachins almost join. The first is nine hundred and +twenty-six paces, the next seven hundred and twenty, and both very bad +roads. From hence is a steady current of nine miles to the river du +Moine, where there has generally been a trading house; the stream then +becomes strong for four leagues, when a rapid succeeds, which requires +two trips. A little way onward is the Decharge, and close to it, the +Portage of the Roche Capitaine, seven hundred and ninety-seven paces in +length. From hence two trips are made through a narrow channel of the +Roche Capitaine, made by an island four miles in length. A strong +current now succeeds, for about six leagues to the Portage of the two +rivers, which is about eight hundred and twenty paces; from thence it is +three leagues to the Decharge of the Trou, which is three hundred paces. +Near adjoining is the rapid of Levellier; from whence, including the +rapids of Matawoen, where there is no carrying-place, it is about +thirty-six miles to the forks of the same name; in latitude +46. 45. North, and longitude 78. 45. West, and is at the computed +distance of four hundred miles from Montreal. At this place the Petite +Riviere falls into the Utawas. The latter river comes from a +North-Westerly direction, forming several lakes in its course. The +principal of them is Lake Temescamang, where there has always been a +trading post, which may be said to continue, by a succession of rivers +and lakes, upwards of fifty leagues from the Forks, passing near the +waters of the Lake Abbitiby, in latitude 48½, which is received by +the Moose River, that empties itself into James Bay. + +The Petite Riviere takes a South-West direction, is full of rapids and +cataracts to its source, and is not more than fifteen leagues in length, +in the course of which are the following interruptions--The Portage of +Plein Champ, three hundred and nineteen paces; the Decharge of the Rose, +one hundred and forty-five paces; the Decharge of Campion, one hundred +and eighty-four paces; the Portage of the Grosse Roche, one hundred and +fifty paces; the Portage of Paresseux, four hundred and two paces; the +Portage of Prairie, two hundred and eighty-seven paces; the Portage of +La Cave, one hundred paces; Portage of Talon, two hundred and +seventy-five paces; which, for its length, is the worst on the +communication; Portage Pin de Musique, four hundred and fifty-six paces; +next to this, is mauvais de Musique, where many men have been crushed to +death by the canoes, and others have received irrecoverable injuries. +The last in this river is the Turtle Portage, eighty-three paces, on +entering the lake of that name, where, indeed, the river may be said to +take its source. At the first vase from whence to the great river, the +country has the appearance of having been over-run by fire, and +consists, in general, of huge rocky hills. The distance of this portage +which is the height of land, between the waters of the St. Laurence and +the Utawas, is one thousand five hundred and thirteen paces to a small +canal in a plain, that is just sufficient to carry the loaded canoe +about one mile to the next vase, which is seven hundred and twenty-five +paces. It would be twice this distance, but the narrow creek is dammed +in the beaver fashion, to float the canoes to this barrier, through +which they pass, when the river is just sufficient to bear them through +a swamp of two miles to the last vase, of one thousand and twenty-four +paces in length. Though the river is increased in this part, some care +is necessary to avoid rocks and stumps of trees. In about six miles is +the lake Nepisingui, which is computed to be twelve leagues long, though +the route of the canoes is something more: it is about fifteen miles +wide in the widest part, and bound with rocks. Its inhabitants consist +of the remainder of a numerous converted tribe, called Nepisinguis of +the Algonquin nation. Out of it flows the Riviere des François, over +rocks of a considerable height. In a bay to the East of this, the road +leads over the Portage of the Chaudiere des François, five hundred and +forty-four paces, to still water. It must have acquired the name of +Kettle, from a great number of holes in the solid rock of a cylindrical +form, and not unlike that culinary utensil. They are observable in many +parts along strong bodies of water, and where, at certain seasons, and +distinct periods, it is well known the water inundates; at the bottom of +them are generally found a number of small stones and pebbles. This +circumstance justifies the conclusion, that at some former period these +rocks formed the bed of a branch of the discharge of this lake, although +some of them are upwards of ten feet above the present level of the +water at its greatest height. They are, indeed, to be seen along every +great river throughout this wide extended country. The French river is +very irregular, both as to its breadth and form, and is so interspersed +with islands, that in the whole course of it the banks are seldom +visible. Of its various channels, that which is generally followed by +the canoes is obstructed by the following Portages, viz., des Pins, +fifty-two paces; Feausille, thirty-six paces; Parisienne, one hundred +paces; Recolet, forty-five paces; and the Petite Feausille, twenty-five +paces. In several parts there are guts or channels, where the water +flows with great velocity, which are not more than twice the breadth of +a canoe. The distance to Lake Huron is estimated at twenty-five +leagues, which this river enters in the latitude 45. 53. North, that is, +at the point of land three or four miles within the lake. There is +hardly a foot of soil to be seen from one end of the French river to the +other, its banks consisting of hills of entire rock. The coast of the +lake is the same, but lower, backed at some distance by high lands. The +course runs through numerous islands to the North of West to the river +Tessalon, computed to be about fifty leagues from the French river, and +which I found to be in latitude 46. 12. 21. North; and from thence +crossing, from island to island, the arm of the lake that receives the +water of Lake Superior (which continues the same course), the route +changes to the South of West ten leagues to the Detour, passing the end +of the island of St. Joseph, within six miles of the former place. On +that island there has been a military establishment since the upper +posts were given up to the Americans in the year 1794; and is the +Westernmost military position which we have in this country. It is a +place of no trade, and the greater part, if not the whole of the Indians +come here for no other purpose but to receive the presents which our +government annually allows them. They are from the American territory +(except about thirty families, who are the inhabitants of the lake from +the French river, and of the Algonquin nation) and trade in their +peltries, as they used formerly to do at Michilimakinac, but principally +with British subjects. The Americans pay them very little attention, +and tell them that they keep possession of their country by right of +conquest: that, as their brothers, they will be friends with them while +they deserve it; and that their traders will bring them every kind of +goods they require, which they may procure by their industry. + + +Our commanders treat them in a very different manner, and, under the +character of the representative of their father (which parental title +the natives give to his present Majesty, the common father of all his +people) present them with such things as the actual state of their +stores will allow. + +How far this conduct, if continued, may, at a future exigency, keep +these people in our interest, if they are even worthy of it, is not an +object of my present consideration: at the same time, I cannot avoid +expressing my perfect conviction, that it would not be of the least +advantage to our present or future commerce in that country, or to the +people themselves; as it only tends to keep many of them in a state of +idleness about our military establishments. The ammunition which they +receive is employed to kill game, in order to procure rum in return, +though their families may be in a starving condition: hence it is, that, +in consequence of slothful and dissolute lives, their numbers are in a +very perceptible state of diminution. + +From the Detour to the island of Michilimakinac, at the conference of +the Lakes Huron and Michigan, in latitude 45. 54. North is about forty +miles. To keep the direct course to Lake Superior, the North shore from +the river Tessalon should be followed; crossing to the North-West end of +St. Joseph, and passing between it and the adjacent islands, which makes +a distance of fifty miles to the fall of St. Mary, at the foot of which, +upon the South shore, there is a village, formerly a place of great +resort for the inhabitants of Lake Superior, and consequently of +considerable trade: it is now, however, dwindled to nothing, and reduced +to about thirty families, of the Algonquin, nation, who are one half of +the year starving, and the other half intoxicated, and ten or twelve +Canadians, who have been in the Indian country from an early period of +life, and intermarried with the natives, who have brought them families. +Their inducements to settle there, was the great quantity of white fish +that are to be taken in and about the falls, with very little trouble, +particularly in the autumn, when that fish leave the lakes, and comes to +the running and shallow waters to spawn. These, when salt can be +procured, are pickled just as the frost sets in, and prove very good +food with potatoes, which they have of late cultivated with success. +The natives live chiefly on this fish, which they hang up by the tails, +and preserve throughout the winter, or at least as long as they last; +for whatever quantity they may have taken, it is never known that their +economy is such as to make them last through the winter, which renders +their situation very distressing; for if they had activity sufficient to +pursue the labours of the chase, the woods are become so barren of game +as to afford them no great prospect of relief. In the spring of the +year, they and the other inhabitants make a quantity of sugar from the +maple tree, which they exchange with the traders for necessary articles, +or carry it to Michilimakinac, where they expect a better price. One of +these traders was agent for the North-West Company, receiving, storing, +and forwarding such articles as come by the way of the lakes upon their +vessels: for it is to be observed, that a quantity of their goods are +sent by that route from Montreal in boats to Kingston, at the entrance +of Lake Ontario, and from thence in vessels to Niagara, then over land +ten miles to a water communication by boats, to Lake Erie, where they +are again received into vessels, and carried over that lake up the river +Detroit, through the lake and river Sinclair to Lake Huron, and from +thence to the Falls of St. Mary's, when they are again landed and +carried for a mile above the falls, and shipped over Lake Superior to +the Grande Portage. This is found to be a less expensive method than by +canoes, but attended with more risk, and requiring more time, than one +short season of this country will admit; for the goods are always sent +from Montreal the preceding fall; and besides, the company get their +provisions from Detroit, as flour and Indian corn; as also considerable +supplies from Michilimakinac of maple sugar, tallow, gum, etc., etc. + +For the purpose of conveying all these things, they have two vessels +upon the Lakes Erie and Huron, and one on Lake Superior, of from fifty +to seventy tons burden. This being, therefore, the depot for +transports, the Montreal canoes, on their arrival, were forwarded over +Lake Superior, with only five men in each; the others were sent to +Michilimakinac for additional canoes, which were required to prosecute +the trade, and then taking a lading there, or at St. Mary's, and follow +the others. At length they all arrive at the Grande Portage which is +one hundred and sixty leagues from St. Mary's, coastways, and situated +on a pleasant bay on the North side of the lake, in latitude 48. North, +and longitude 90. West from Greenwich, where the compass has not above +five degrees East variation. + +At the entrance of the bay is an island which screens the harbour from +every wind except the South. The shallowness of the water, however, +renders it necessary for the vessel to anchor near a mile from the +shore, where there is not more than fourteen feet water. This lake +justifies the name that has been given to it; the Falls of St. Mary, +which is its Northern extremity, being in latitude 46. 31. North, and in +longitude 84. West, where there is no variation of the compass +whatever, while its Southern extremity, at the river St. Louis, is in +latitude 46. 45. North, and longitude 92. 10. West: its greatest +breadth is one hundred and twenty miles, and its circumference, +including its various bays, is not less than one thousand two hundred +miles. Along its North shore is the safest navigation, as it is a +continued mountainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to one +thousand five hundred feet in height. There are numerous coves and +sandy bays to land, which are frequently sheltered by islands from the +swell of the lake. This is particularly the case at the distance of one +hundred miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, and is called the +Pays Plat. + +This seems to have been caused by some convulsion of nature, for many of +the islands display a composition of lava, intermixed with round stones +of the size of a pigeon's egg. The surrounding rock is generally hard, +and of a dark blue-grey, though it frequently has the appearance of iron +and copper. The South side of the lake, from Point Shagoimigo East, is +almost a continual straight line of sandy beach, interspersed with rocky +precipices of lime-stones, sometimes rising to a hundred feet in height, +without a bay. The embankments from that point Westward are, in +general, of strong clay, mixed with stones, which renders the navigation +irksome and dangerous. On the same side, at the river Tonnagan, is +found a quantity of virgin copper. The Americans, soon after they got +possession of that country, sent an engineer thither; and I should not +be surprised to hear of their employing people to work the mine. +Indeed, it might be well worthy the attention of the British subjects to +work the mines on the North coast, though they are not supposed to be so +rich as those on the South. + +Lake Superior is the largest and most magnificent body of fresh water in +the world: it is clear and pellucid, of great depth, and abounding in a +great variety of fish, which are the most excellent of their kind. +There are trouts of three kinds, weighing from five to fifty pounds, +sturgeon, pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black bass, herrings, +etc., etc., and the last, and best of all, the Ticamang, or white fish, +which weighs from four to sixteen pounds, and is of a superior quality +in these waters. + +This lake may be denominated the grand reservoir of the River +St. Laurence, as no considerable rivers discharge themselves into it. +The principal ones are, the St. Louis, the Nipigon, the Pic, and the +Michipicoten. Indeed, the extent of country from which any of them +flow, or take their course, in any direction, cannot admit of it, in +consequence of the ridge of land that separates them from the rivers +that empty themselves into Hudson's-Bay, the gulf of Mexico, and the +waters that fall in Lake Michigan, which afterward become a part of the +St. Laurence. + +This vast collection of water is often covered with fog, particularly +when the wind is from the East, which, driving against the high barren +rocks on the North and West shore, dissolves in torrents of rain. It is +very generally said, that the storms on this lake are denoted by a swell +on the preceding day; but this circumstance did not appear from my +observation to be a regular phenomenon, as the swells more regularly +subsided without any subsequent wind. + +Along the surrounding rocks of this immense lake, evident marks appear +of the decrease of its water, by the lines observable along them. The +space, however, between the highest and the lowest, is not so great as +in the smaller lakes, as it does not amount to more than six feet, the +former being very faint. + +The inhabitants that are found along the coast of this water, are all of +the Algonquin nation, the whole of which do not exceed 150 families.[4] + +These people live chiefly on fish; indeed, from what has been said of +the country, it cannot be expected to abound in animals, as it is +totally destitute of that shelter, which is so necessary to them. The +rocks appear to have been over-run by fire, and the stinted timber which +once grew there, is frequently seen lying along the surface of them: but +it is not easy to be reconciled, that anything should grow where there +is so little appearance of soil. Between the fallen trees there are +briars, with hurtleberry and gooseberry bushes, raspberries, etc., which +invite the bears in greater or lesser numbers, as they are a favourite +food of that animal: beyond these rocky banks are found a few moose and +fallow deer. The waters alone are abundantly inhabited. + +A very curious phenomenon was observed some years ago at the Grande +Portage, for which no obvious cause could be assigned. The water +withdrew with great precipitation, leaving the ground dry that had never +before been visible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet, +and rushing back with great velocity above the common mark. It +continued thus falling and rising for several hours, gradually +decreasing till it stopped at its usual height. There is frequently an +irregular influx and deflux, which does not exceed ten inches, and is +attributed to the wind. + +The bottom of the bay, which forms an amphitheatre, is cleared of wood +and inclosed; and on the left corner of it, beneath an hill, three or +four hundred feet in height, and crowned by others of a still greater +altitude, is the fort, picketed in with cedar pallisadoes, and inclosing +houses built with wood and covered with shingles. They are calculated +for every convenience of trade, as well as to accommodate the +proprietors and clerks during their short residence there. The north +men live under tents: but the more frugal pork-eater lodges beneath his +canoe. The soil immediately bordering on the lake has not proved very +propitious, as nothing but potatoes have been found to answer the +trouble of cultivation. This circumstance is probably owing to the cold +damp fogs of the lake, and the moisture of the ground from the springs +that issue from beneath the hills. There are meadows in the vicinity +that yield abundance of hay for the cattle; but, as to agriculture, it +has not hitherto been an object of serious consideration. + +I shall now leave these geographical notices, to give some further +account of the people from Montreal.--When they are arrived at the +Grande Portage, which is near nine miles over, each of them has to carry +eight packages of such goods and provisions as are necessary for the +interior country. This is a labour which cattle cannot conveniently +perform in summer, as both horses and oxen were tried by the company +without success. They are only useful for light, bulky articles; or for +transporting upon sledges, during the winter, whatever goods may remain +there, especially provision, of which it is usual to have a year's stock +on hand. + +Having finished this toilsome part of their duty, if more goods are +necessary to be transported, they are allowed a Spanish dollar for each +package: and so inured are they to this kind of labour, that I have +known some of them set off with two packages of ninety pounds each, and +return with two others of the same weight, in the course of six hours, +being a distance of eighteen miles over hills and mountains. This +necessary part of the business being over, if the season be early they +have some respite, but this depends upon the time the North men begin to +arrive from their winter quarters, which they commonly do early in July. +At this period, it is necessary to select from the pork-eaters, a number +of men, among whom are the recruits, or winterers, sufficient to man the +North canoes necessary to carry, to the river of the rainy lake, the +goods and provision requisite for the Athabasca country; as the people +of that country (owing to the shortness of the season and length of the +road, can come no further), are equipped there, and exchange ladings +with the people of whom we are speaking, and both return from whence +they came. This voyage is performed in the course of a month, and they +are allowed proportionable wages for their services. + +The North men being arrived at the Grande Portage, are regaled with +bread, pork, butter, liquor, and tobacco, and such as have not entered +into agreements during the winter, which is customary, are contracted +with, to return and perform the voyage for one, two, or three years; +their accounts are also settled, and such as choose to send any of their +earnings to Canada, receive drafts to transmit to their relations or +friends; and as soon as they can be got ready, which requires no more +than a fortnight, they are again despatched to their respective +departments. It is, indeed, very creditable to them as servants, that +though they are sometimes assembled to the number of twelve hundred men, +indulging themselves in the free use of liquor, and quarrelling with +each other, they always show the greatest respect to their employers, +who are comparatively but few in number, and beyond the aid of any legal +power to enforce due obedience. In short, a degree of subordination can +only be maintained by the good opinion these men entertain of their +employers, which has been uniformly the case, since the trade has been +formed and conducted on a regular system. + +The people being despatched to their respective winter-quarters, the +agents from Montreal, assisted by their clerks, prepare to return there, +by getting the furs across the portage, and re-making them into packages +of one hundred pounds weight each, to send them to Montreal; where they +commonly arrive in the month of September. + +The mode of living at the Grande Portage is as follows: The proprietors, +clerks, guides, and interpreters, mess together, to the number of +sometimes an hundred, at several tables, in one large hall, the +provision consisting of bread, salt pork, beef, hams, fish, and venison, +butter, peas, Indian corn, potatoes, tea, spirits, wine, etc., and +plenty of milk, for which purpose several milch cows are constantly +kept. The mechanics have rations of such provision, but the canoe-men, +both from the North and Montreal, have no other allowance here, or in +the voyage, than Indian corn and melted fat. The corn for this purpose +is prepared before it leaves Detroit, by boiling it in a strong alkali, +which takes off the outer husk: it is then well washed, and carefully +dried upon stages, when it is fit for use. One quart of this is boiled +for two hours, over a moderate fire, in a gallon of water; to which, +when it has boiled a small time, are added two ounces of melted suet; +this causes the corn to split, and in the time mentioned makes a pretty +thick pudding. If to this is added a little salt, (but not before it is +boiled, as it would interrupt the operation) it makes a wholesome, +palatable food, and easy of digestion. This quantity is fully +sufficient for a man's subsistence during twenty-four hours; though it +is not sufficiently heartening to sustain the strength necessary for a +state of active labour. The Americans call this dish hominy.[5] + +The trade from the Grande Portage is, in some particulars, carried on in +a different manner with that from Montreal. The canoes used in the +latter transport are now too large for the former, and some of about +half the size are procured from the natives, and are navigated by four, +five, or six men, according to the distance which they have to go. They +carry a lading of about thirty-five packages, on an average; of these +twenty-three are for the purpose of trade, and the rest are employed for +provisions, stores, and baggage. In each of these canoes are a foreman +and steersman; the one to be always on the look-out, and direct the +passage of the vessel, and the other to attend the helm. They also +carry her, whenever that office is necessary. The foreman has the +command, and the middle-men obey both; the latter earn only two-thirds +of the wages which are paid the two former. Independent of these, a +conductor or pilot is appointed to every four or six of these canoes, +whom they are all obliged to obey; and is, or at least is intended to +be, a person of superior experience, for which he is proportionably +paid. + +In these canoes, thus loaded, they embark at the North side of the +portage, on the river Au Tourt, which is very inconsiderable; and after +about two miles of a Westerly course, is obstructed by the Partridge +Portage, six hundred paces long. In the spring this makes a +considerable fall, when the water is high, over a perpendicular rock of +one hundred and twenty feet. From, thence the river continues to be +shallow, and requires great care to prevent the bottom of the canoe from +being injured by sharp rocks, for a distance of three miles and an half +to the Priarie, or Meadow, when half the lading is taken out, and +carried by part of the crew, while two of them are conducting the canoe +among the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carreboeuf Portage, three +miles and a half more, when they unload, and come back two miles, and +embark what was left for the other hands to carry, which they also land +with the former; all of which is carried six hundred and eighty paces, +and the canoe led up against the rapid. From hence the water is better +calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a winding course to the North +of West three miles to the Outard Portage, over which the canoe, and +every thing in her, is carried for two thousand four hundred paces. At +the further end is a very high hill to descend, over which hangs a rock +upwards of seven hundred feet high. Then succeeds the Outard Lake, +about six miles long, lying in a North-West course, and about two miles +wide in the broadest place. + +After passing a very small rivulet, they come to the Elk Portage, over +which the canoe and lading are again carried one thousand one hundred +and twenty paces; when they enter the lake of the same name, which is an +handsome piece of water, running North-West about four miles, and not +more than one mile and an half wide.[6] They then land at the Portage de +Cerise, over which, and in the face of a considerable hill, the canoe +and cargo are again transported for one thousand and fifty paces. This +is only separated from the second Portage de Cerise, by a mud-pond +(where there is plenty of water lilies), of a quarter of a mile in +length; and this is again separated by a similar pond, from the last +Portage de Cerise, which is four hundred and ten paces. Here the same +operation is to be performed for three hundred and eighty paces. They +next enter on the Mountain Lake, running North-West by West six miles +long, and about two miles in its greatest breadth. In the centre of +this lake, and to the right is the Old Road, by which I never passed, +but an adequate notion may be formed of it from the road I am going to +describe, and which is universally preferred. This is first, the small +new portage over which everything is carried for six hundred and +twenty-six paces, over hills and gullies; the whole is then embarked on +a narrow line of water, that meanders South-West about two miles and an +half. It is necessary to unload here, for the length of the canoe, and +then proceed West half a mile, to the new Grande Portage, which is three +thousand one hundred paces in length, and over very rough ground, which +requires the utmost exertions of the men, and frequently lames them: +from hence they approach the Rose Lake, the portage of that name being +opposite to the junction of the road from the Mountain Lake. They then +embark on the Rose Lake, about one mile from the East end of it, and +steer West by South, in an oblique course, across it two miles, then +North-West passing the Petite Peche to the Marten Portage three miles. +In this part of the lake the bottom is mud and slime, with about three +or four feet of water over it; and here I frequently struck a canoe pole +of twelve feet long, without meeting any other obstruction than if the +whole were water: it has, however, a peculiar suction or attractive +power, so that it is difficult to paddle a canoe over it. There is a +small space along the South shore, where the water is deep, and this +effect is not felt. In proportion to the distance from this part, the +suction becomes more powerful: I have, indeed, been told that loaded +canoes have been in danger of being swallowed up, and have only owed +their preservation to other canoes, which were lighter. I have, myself, +found it very difficult to get away from this attractive power, with six +men, and great exertion, though we did not appear to be in any danger of +sinking. + +Over against this is a very high, rocky ridge, on the South side, called +Marten Portage, which is but twenty paces long, and separated from the +Perche Portage, which is four hundred and eighty paces, by a mud pond, +covered with white lilies. From hence the course is on the lake of the +same name, West-South-West three miles to the height of land, where the +waters of the Dove or Pigeon River terminate, and which is one of the +sources of the great St. Laurence in this direction. Having carried the +canoe and lading over it, six hundred and seventy-nine paces, they +embark on the lake of Hauteur de Terre, which is in the shape of an +horseshoe.[7] It is entered near the curve, and left at the extremity of +the Western limb, through a very shallow channel, where the canoe passes +half loaded for thirty paces with the current, which conducts these +waters till they discharge themselves, through the succeeding lakes and +rivers, and disembogues itself, by the river Nelson, into Hudson's Bay. +The first of these is Lac de pierres a fusil, running West-South-West +seven miles long, and two wide, and making an angle at North-West one +mile more, becomes a river for half a mile, tumbling over a rock, and +forming a fall and portage, called the Escalier, of fifty-five paces; +but from hence it is neither lake or river, but possesses the character +of both, and runs between large rocks, which cause a current or rapid +for about two miles and an half, West-North-West, to the portage of the +Cheval du Bois. Here the canoe and contents are carried three hundred +and eighty paces, between rocks; and within a quarter of a mile is the +Portage des Gros Pins, which is six hundred and forty paces over a high +ridge. The opposite side of it is washed by a small lake three mile +round; and the course is through the East end or side of it, three +quarters of a mile North-East, where there is a rapid. An irregular +meandering channel, between rocky banks, then succeeds, for seven miles +and an half, to the Maraboeuf Lake, which extends North four miles, and +is three-quarters of a mile wide, terminating by a rapid and decharge of +one hundred and eighty paces, the rock of Saginaga being in sight, which +causes a fall of about seven feet, and a portage of fifty-five paces. + +Lake Saginaga takes its name from its numerous islands. Its greatest +length from East to West is about fourteen miles, with very irregular +inlets, is nowhere more than three miles wide, and terminates at the +small portage of Le Roche, of forty-three paces. From thence is a +rocky, stony passage of one mile, to Priarie Portage, which is very +improperly named, as there is no ground about it that answers to that +description, except a small spot at the embarking place at the West end: +to the East is an entire bog; and it is with great difficulty that the +lading can be landed upon stages, formed by driving piles into the mud, +and spreading branches of trees over them. The portage rises on a stony +ridge, over which the canoe and cargo must be carried for six hundred +and eleven paces. This is succeeded by an embarkation on a small bay, +where the bottom is the same as has been described in the West end of +Rose Lake, and it is with great difficulty that a laden canoe is worked +over it, but it does not comprehend more than a distance of two hundred +yards. From hence the progress continues through irregular channels, +bounded by rocks, in a Westerly course for about five miles, to the +little Portage des Couteaux, of one hundred and sixty-five paces, and +the Lac des Couteaux, running about South-West by West twelve miles, and +from a quarter to two miles wide. A deep bay runs East three miles from +the West end, where it is discharged by a rapid river, and after running +two miles West, it again becomes still water. In this river are two +carrying-places, the one fifteen, and the other one hundred and ninety +paces. From this to the Portage des Carpes is one mile North-West, +leaving a narrow lake on the East that runs parallel with the Lac des +Couteaux, half its length, where there is a carrying-place, which is +used when the water in the river last mentioned is too low. The Portage +des Carpes is three hundred and ninety paces, from whence the water +spreads irregularly between rocks, five miles North-West and South-East +to the Portage of Lac Bois Blanc, which is one hundred and eighty paces. +Then follows the lake of that name, but I think improperly so called, as +the natives name it the Lac Passeau Minac Sagaigan, or lake of Dry +Berries. + +Before the small-pox ravaged this country, and completed, what the +Nodowasis, in their warfare, had gone far to accomplish, the destruction +of its inhabitants, the population was very numerous: this was also a +favourite part, where they made their canoes, etc., the lake abounding +in fish, the country round it being plentifully supplied with various +kinds of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the boundaries of the +water, covered with a variety of berries. + +When the French were in possession of this country, they had several +trading establishments on the islands and banks of this lake. Since +that period, the few people remaining, who were of the Algonquin nation, +could hardly find subsistence; game having become so scarce, that they +depended principally for food upon fish and wild rice, which grows +spontaneously in these parts. + +This lake is irregular in its form, and its utmost extent from East to +West is fifteen miles; a point of land, called Point au Pin, jutting +into it, divides it in two parts: it then makes a second angle at the +West end, to the lesser Portage de Bois Blanc, two hundred paces in +length. This channel is not wide, and is intercepted by several rapids +in the course of a mile: it runs West-North West to the Portage des +Pins, over which the canoe and lading is again carried four hundred +paces. From hence the channel is also intercepted by very dangerous +rapids, for two miles Westerly, to the point of Pointe du Bois, which is +two hundred and eighty paces. Then succeeds the portage of La Croche, +one mile more, where the carrying-place is eighty paces, and is followed +by an embarkation on that lake, which takes its name from its figure. +It extends eighteen miles, in a meandering form, and in a westerly +direction; it is in general very narrow, and at about two-thirds of its +length becomes very contracted, with a strong current. + +Within three miles of the last Portage is a remarkable rock, with a +smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts, which hang over +the water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great number of arrows +have been shot, which is said to have been done by a war party of the +Nadowasis or Sieux, who had done much mischief in this country, and left +these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that, +notwithstanding its lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inaccessible to +their enemies. + +Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage de Rideau, four hundred paces +long, and derives its name from the appearance of the water, falling +over a rock of upwards of thirty feet. Several rapids succeed, with +intervals of still water, for about three miles to the Flacon portage, +which is very difficult, is four hundred paces long, and leads to the +Lake of La Croix, so named from its shape. It runs about North-West +eighteen miles to the Beaver Dam, and then sinks into a deep bay nearly +East. The course to the Portage is West by North for sixteen miles more +from the Beaver Dam, and into the East bay is a road which was +frequented by the French, and followed through lakes and rivers until +they came to Lake Superior by the river Caministiquia, thirty miles East +of the Grande Portage. + +Portage la Croix is six hundred paces long: to the next portage is a +quarter of a mile, and its length is forty paces; the river winding four +miles to Vermillion Lake, which runs six or seven miles +North-North-West, and by a narrow strait communicates with Lake +Namaycan, which takes its name from a particular place at the foot of a +fall, where the natives spear sturgeon: Its course is about +North-North-West and South-South-East, with a bay running East, that +gives it the form of a triangle: its length is about sixteen miles to +the Nouvelle Portage. + +The discharge of the lake is from a bay on the left, and the portage one +hundred eighty paces, to which succeeds a very small river, from whence +there is but a short distance to the next Nouvelle Portage, three +hundred and twenty paces long. It is then necessary to embark on a +swamp, or overflowed country, where wild rice grows in great abundance. +There is a channel or small river in the centre of this swamp, which is +kept with difficulty, and runs South and North one mile and a half. +With deepening water, the course continues North-North-West one mile to +the Chaudiere Portage, which is caused by the discharge of the waters +running on the left of the road from Lake Namaycan, which used to be the +common route, but that which I have described is the safest as well as +shortest. From hence there is some current though the water is wide +spread, and its course about North by West three miles and an half to +the Lac de la Pluie, which lies nearly East and West; from thence about +fifteen miles is a narrow strait that divides the lake into two unequal +parts, from whence to its discharge is a distance of twenty-four miles. +There is a deep bay running North-West on the right, that is not +included, and is remarkable for furnishing the natives with a kind of +soft, red stone, of which they make their pipes; it also affords an +excellent fishery both in the summer and winter; and from it is an easy, +safe, and short road to the Lac du Bois, (which I shall mention +presently) for the Indians to pass in their small canoes, through a +small lake and on a small river, whose banks furnish abundance of wild +rice. The discharge of this lake is called Lac de la Pluie River, at +whose entrance there is a rapid, below which is a fine bay, where there +had been an extensive picketed fort and building when possessed by the +French: the site of it is at present a beautiful meadow, surrounded with +groves of oaks. From hence there is a strong current for two miles, +where the water falls over a rock twenty feet, and, from the consequent +turbulence of the water, the carrying-place, which is three hundred and +twenty paces long, derives the name of Chaudiere. Two miles onward is +the present trading establishment, situated on an high bank on the North +side of the river, in 48. 37. North latitude. + +Here the people from Montreal come to meet those who arrive from the +Athabasca country, as has been already described, and exchange lading +with them. This is also the residence of the first chief, or Sachem, of +all the Algonquin tribes, inhabiting the different parts of this +country. He is by distinction called Nectam, which implies personal +preeminence. Here also the elders meet in council to treat of peace or +war. + +This is one of the finest rivers in the North-West, and runs a course +West and East one hundred and twenty computed miles; but in taking its +course and distance minutely I make it only eighty. Its banks are +covered with a rich soil, particularly to the North, which, in many +parts, are clothed with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, the +pine, and the cedar. The Southern bank is not so elevated, and displays +the maple, the white birch, and the cedar, with the spruce, the alder, +and various underwood. Its waters abound in fish, particularly the +sturgeon, which the natives both spear and take with drag-nets. But +notwithstanding the promise of this soil, the Indians do not attend to +its cultivation, though they are not ignorant of the common process, and +are fond of the Indian corn, when they can get it from us. + +Though the soil at the fort is a stiff clay, there is a garden, which, +unassisted as it is by manure, or any particular attention, is tolerably +productive. + +We now proceed to mention the Lac du Bois, into which this river +discharges itself in latitude 49. North, and was formerly famous for the +richness of its banks and waters, which abounded with whatever was +necessary to a savage life. The French had several settlements in and +about it; but it might be almost concluded, that some fatal circumstance +had destroyed the game, as war and the small-pox had diminished the +inhabitants, it having been very unproductive in animals since the +British subjects have been engaged in travelling through it; though it +now appears to be recovering its pristine state. The few Indians who +inhabit it might live very comfortably, if they were not so immoderately +fond of spirituous liquors. + +This lake is also rendered remarkable, in consequence of the Americans +having named it as the spot, from which a line of boundary, between them +and British America, was to run West, until it struck the Mississippi: +which, however, can never happen, as the North-West part of the Lac du +Bois is in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94.31. West, and the +Northernmost branch of the source of the Mississippi is in latitude +47. 38. North, and longitude 95. 6. West, ascertained by Mr. Thomson, +astronomer to the North-West Company, who was sent expressly for that +purpose in the spring of 1798. He, in the same year, determined the +Northern bend of the Mississoury to be in latitude 47. 32. North, and +longitude 101. 25. West; and, according to the Indian accounts, it runs +to the south of West, so that if the Mississoury were even to be +considered as the Mississippi, no Western line could strike it. + +It does not appear to me to be clearly determined what course the Line +is to take, or from what part of Lake Superior it strikes through the +country to the Lac du Bois: were it to follow the principal waters to +their source, it ought to keep through Lake Superior to the River +St. Louis, and follow that river to its source; close to which is the +source of the waters falling into the river of Lac la Pluie, which is a +common route of the Indians to the Lac du Bois; the St. Louis passes +within a short distance of a branch of the Mississippi, where it becomes +navigable for canoes. This will appear more evident from consulting the +map: and if the navigation of the Mississippi is considered as of any +consequence by this country, from that part of the globe, such is the +nearest way to get at it. + +But to return to our narrative. The Lac du Bois is, as far as I could +learn, nearly round, and the canoe course through the centre of it among +a cluster of islands, some of which are so extensive that they may be +taken for the mainland. The reduced course would be nearly South and +North. But following the navigating course, I make the distance +seventy-five miles, though in a direct line it would fall very short of +that length. At about two-thirds of it there is a small carrying-place, +when the water is low. The carrying-place out of the Lake is on the +island and named Portage du Rat, in latitude 49. 37. North, and +longitude 94. 15. West; it is about fifty paces long. The lake +discharges itself at both ends of this island, and forms the River +Winipic, which is a large body of water, interspersed with numerous +islands, causing various channels and interruptions of portages and +rapids. In some parts it has the appearance of lakes, with steady +currents; I estimate its winding course to the Dalles eight miles; to +the Grand Decharge twenty-five miles and an half, which is a long +carrying-place for the goods; from thence to the little Decharge one +mile and an half; to the Terre Jaune Portage two miles and an half; then +to its galet seventy yards; two miles and three quarters to the Terre +Blanche, near which is a fall of from four to five feet; three miles and +an half to Portage de L'Isle, where there is a trading-post, and, about +eleven miles, on the north shore, a trading establishment, which is the +road in boats, to Albany River, and from thence to Hudson's-Bay. There +is also a communication with Lake Superior, through what is called the +Nipigan country, which enters that Lake about thirty-five leagues East +of the Grande Portage. In short, the country is so broken by lakes and +rivers, that people may find their way in canoes in any direction they +please. It is now four miles to Portage de L'Isle, which is but short, +though several canoes have been lost in attempting to run the rapid. +From thence it is twenty-six miles to Jacob's Falls, which are about +fifteen feet high; and six miles and an half to the woody point; forty +yards from which is another Portage. They both form an high fall, but +not perpendicular. From thence to another galet, or rock Portage, is +about two miles, which is one continual rapid and cascade; and about two +miles further is the Chute a l'Esclave, which is upward of thirty feet. +The Portage is long, through a point covered with wood: it is six miles +and an half more to the barrier, and ten miles to the Grand Rapid. From +thence, on the North side, is a safe road, when the waters are high, +through small rivers and lakes, to the Lake du Bonnet, called the +Pinnawas, from the man who discovered it: to the White River, so called +from its being, for a considerable length, a succession of falls and +cataracts, is twelve miles. Here are seven portages, in so short a +space, that the whole of them are discernible at the same moment. From +this to Lake du Bonnet is fifteen miles more, and four miles across it +to the rapid. Here the Pinnawas Road joins, and from thence it is two +miles to the Galet du Lac du Bonnet; from this to the Galet du Bonnet +one mile and an half; thence to the Portage of the same name is three +miles. This portage is near half a league in length, and derives its +name from the custom the Indians have of crowning stones, laid in a +circle on the highest rock in the portage, with wreaths of herbage and +branches. There have been examples of men taking seven packages of +ninety pounds each, at one end of the portage, and putting them down at +the other without stopping. + +To this another small portage immediately succeeds, over a rock +producing a fall. From thence to the fall of Terre Blanche is two miles +and an half; to the first portage Des Eaux qui Remuent is three miles; +to the next, of the same name, is but a few yards distant; to the third +and last, which is a Decharge, is three miles and an half; and from this +to the last Portage of the river, one mile and an half; and to the +establishment, or provision house, is two miles and an half. Here also +the French had their principal inland depot, and got their canoes made. +It is here that the present traders, going to great distances, and where +provision is difficult to procure, receive a supply to carry them to the +Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior. From the establishment to the entrance of +Lake Winipic, is four miles and an half, latitude 50. 37. North. + +The country, soil, produce, and climate, from Lake Superior to this +place, bear a general resemblance, with a predominance of rock and +water: the former is of the granite kind. Where there is any soil it is +well covered with wood, such as oak, elm, ash of different kinds, maple +of two kinds, pines of various descriptions, among which are what I call +the cypress, with the hickory, ironwood, laird, poplar, cedar, black and +white birch, etc., etc. Vast quantities of wild rice are seen +throughout the country, which the natives collect in the month of August +for their winter stores.[8] To the North of fifty degrees it is hardly +known, or at least does not come to maturity. + +Lake Winipic is the great reservoir of several large rivers, and +discharges itself by the River Nelson into Hudson's Bay. The first in +rotation, next to that I have just described, is the Assiniboin, or Red +River, which at the distance of forty miles coastwise, disembogues on +the south west side of the Lake Winipic. It alternately receives those +two denominations from its dividing, at the distance of about thirty +miles from the lake, into two large branches; The Eastern branch, called +the Red River, runs in a Southern direction to near the head waters of +the Mississippi. On this are two trading establishments. The country +on either side is but partially supplied with wood, and consists of +plains covered with herds of the buffalo and elk, especially on the +Western side. On the Eastern side are lakes and rivers, and the whole +country is well wooded, level, abounding in beaver, bears, moose-deer, +fallow deer, etc., etc. The natives, who are of the Algonquin tribe, +are not very numerous, and are considered as the natives of Lake +Superior. This country being near the Mississippi, is also inhabited by +the Nadowasis, who are the natural enemies of the former; the head of +the water being the war-line, they are in a continual state of +hostility; and though the Algonquins are equally brave, the others +generally out-number them; it is very probable, therefore, that if the +latter continue to venture out of the woods, which form their only +protection, they will soon be extirpated. There is not, perhaps, a +finer country in the world for the residence of uncivilised man, than +that which occupies the space between this river and Lake Superior. It +abounds in every thing necessary to the wants and comforts of such a +people. Fish, venison, and fowl, with wild rice, are in great plenty; +while, at the same time, their subsistence requires that bodily exercise +so necessary to health and vigour. + +This great extent of country was formerly very populous, but from the +information I received, the aggregate of its inhabitants does not exceed +three hundred warriors; and, among the few whom I saw, it appeared to me +that the widows were more numerous than the men. The raccoon is a +native of this country, but is seldom found to the Northward of it. + +The other branch is called after the tribe of the Nadowasis, who here go +by the name of Assiniboins, and are the principal inhabitants of it. It +runs from the North-North-West, and in the latitude of 51. 15. West, and +longitude 103. 20., rising in the same mountains as the river Dauphin, +of which I shall speak in due order. They must have separated from +their nation at a time beyond our knowledge, and live in peace with the +Algonquins and Knisteneaux. + +The country between this and the Red River, is almost a continual plain +to the Mississoury. The soil is sand and gravel, with a slight +intermixture of earth, and produces a short grass. Trees are very rare; +nor are there on the banks of the river sufficient, except in particular +spots, to build houses and supply fire-wood for the trading +establishments, of which there are four principal ones. Both these +rivers are navigable for canoes to their source, without a fall; though +in some parts there are rapids, caused by occasional beds of limestone, +and gravel; but in general they have a sandy bottom. + +The Assiniboins, and some of the Fall or Big-bellied Indians, are the +principal inhabitants of this country, and border on the river, +occupying the centre part of it; that next Lake Winipic, and about its +source, being the station of the Algonquins and Knisteneaux, who have +chosen it in preference to their own country. They do not exceed five +hundred families. They are not beaver hunters, which accounts for their +allowing the division just mentioned, as the lower and upper parts of +this river have those animals, which are not found in the intermediate +district. They confine themselves to hunting the buffalo, and trapping +wolves, which cover the country. What they do not want of the former +for raiment and food, they sometimes make into pemmican, or pounded +meat, while they melt the fat, and prepare the skins in their hair, for +winter. The wolves they never eat, but produce a tallow from their fat, +and prepare their skins; all which they bring to exchange for arms and +ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives, and various baubles, with those who go +to traffic in their country. + +The Algonquins, and the Knisteneaux, on the contrary, attend to the +fur-hunting, so that they acquire the additional articles of cloth, +blankets, etc., but their passion for rum often puts it out of their +power to supply themselves with real necessaries. + +The next river of magnitude is the river Dauphin, which empties itself +at the head of St. Martin's Bay, on the West side of the Lake Winipic, +latitude nearly 52. 15. North, taking its source in the same mountains +as the last-mentioned river, as well as the Swan and Red-Deer rivers, +the latter passing through the lake of the same name, as well as the +former, and both continuing their course through the Manitoba Lake, +which, from thence, runs parallel with Lake Winipic, to within nine +miles of the Red River, and by what is called the river Dauphin, +disembogues its waters, as already described, into that lake. These +rivers are very rapid, and interrupted by falls, etc., the bed being +generally rocky. All this country, to the South branch of the +Saskatchiwine, abounds in beaver, moose-deer, fallow-deer, elks, bears, +buffaloes, etc. The soil is good, and wherever any attempts have been +made to raise the esculent plants, etc., it has been found productive. + +On these waters are three principal forts for trade. Fort Dauphin, +which was established by the French before the conquest. Red-Deer +River, and Swan-River Forts, with occasional detached posts from these. +The inhabitants are the Knisteneaux, from the North of Lake Winipic; and +Algonquins from the country between the Red River and Lake Superior; and +some from the Rainy Lake: but as they are not fixed inhabitants, their +number cannot be determined: they do not, however, at any time exceed +two hundred warriors. In general they are good hunters. There is no +other considerable river except the Saskatchiwine, which I shall mention +presently, that empties itself into the Lake Winipic. + +Those on the North side are inconsiderable, owing to the comparative +vicinity of the high land that separates the waters coming this way, +from those discharging into Hudson's Bay. The course of the lake is +about West-North-West and South-South-East, and the East end of it is in +50. 37. North. It contracts at about a quarter of its length to a +strait, in latitude 51. 45., and is no more than two miles broad, where +the South shore is gained through islands, and crossing various bays to +the discharge of the Saskatchiwine, in latitude 53. 15. This lake, in +common with those of this country, is bounded on the North with banks of +black and grey rock, and on the South by a low level country, +occasionally interrupted with a ridge or bank of lime-stones, lying in +stratas, and rising to the perpendicular height of from twenty to forty +feet; these are covered with a small quantity of earth, forming a level +surface, which bears timber, but of a moderate growth, and declines to a +swamp. Where the banks are low, it is evident in many places that the +waters are withdrawn, and never rise to those heights which were +formerly washed by them. + +The inhabitants who are found along this lake are of the Knisteneaux and +Algonquin tribes, and but few in number, though game is not scarce, and +there is fish in great abundance. The black bass is found there, and no +further West; and beyond it no maple trees are seen, either hard or +soft. + +On entering the Saskatchiwine, in the course of a few miles, the great +rapid interrupts the passage. It is about three miles long. Through +the greatest part of it the canoe is towed, half or full laden, +according to the state of the waters: the canoe and its contents are +then carried one thousand one hundred paces. The channel here is near a +mile wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of rocks that traverse the +river. The South bank is very high, rising upwards of fifty feet, of +the same rock as seen on the South side of the Lake Winipic, and the +North is not more than a third of that height. There is an excellent +sturgeon-fishery at the foot of this cascade, and vast numbers of +pelicans, cormorants, etc., frequent it, where they watch to seize the +fish that may be killed or disabled by the force of the waters. + +About two miles from this Portage the navigation is again interrupted by +the Portage of the Roche Rouge, which is an hundred yards long; and a +mile and an half from thence the river is barred by a range of islands, +forming rapids between them; and through these it is the same distance +to the rapid of Lake Travers, which is four miles right across, and +eight miles in length. Then succeeds the Grande Decharge, and several +rapids, for four miles to the Cedar Lake, which is entered through a +small channel on the left, formed by an island, as going round it would +occasion loss of time. In this distance banks of rocks (such as have +already been described) appear at intervals on, either side; the rest of +the country is low. This is the case along the South bank of the lake +and the islands, while the North side, which is very uncommon, is level +throughout. This lake runs first West four miles, then as much more +West-South-West, across a deep bay on the right, then six miles to the +Point de Lievre, and across another bay again on the right; then +North-West eight miles, across a still deeper hay on the right; and +seven miles parallel with the North coast, North-North-West through +islands, five miles more to Fort Bourbon,[9] situated on a small island, +dividing this from Mud Lake. + +The Cedar Lake is from four to twelve miles wide, exclusive, of the +bays. Its banks are covered with wood, and abound in game, and its +waters produce plenty of fish, particularly the sturgeon. The Mud Lake, +and the neighbourhood of the Fort Bourbon, abound with geese, ducks, +swans, etc., and was formerly remarkable for a vast number of martens, +of which it cannot now boast but a very small proportion. + +The Mud Lake must have formerly been a part of the Cedar Lake, but the +immense quantity of earth and sand, brought down by the Saskatchiwine, +has filled up this part of it for a circumference whose diameter is at +least fifteen or twenty miles: part of which space is still covered with +a few feet of water, but the greatest proportion is shaded with large +trees, such as the liard, the swamp-ash, and the willow. This land +consists of many islands, which consequently form various channels, +several of which are occasionally dry, and bearing young wood. It is, +indeed, more than probable that this river will, in the course of time, +convert the whole of the Cedar Lake into a forest. To the North-West +the cedar is not to be found. + +From this lake the Saskatchiwine may be considered as navigable to near +its source in the rocky mountains, for canoes, and without a +carrying-place, making a great bend to Cumberland House, on Sturgeon +Lake. From the confluence of its North and South branches its course is +Westerly; spreading itself, it receives several tributary streams, and +encompasses a large tract of country, which is level, particularly along +the South branch, but is little known. Beaver, and other animals, whose +furs are valuable, are amongst the inhabitants of the North-West branch, +and the plains are covered with buffaloes, wolves, and small foxes; +particularly about the South branch, which, however, has of late claimed +some attention, as it is now understood, that where the plains terminate +towards the rocky mountain, there is a space of hilly country clothed +with wood, and inhabited also by animals of the fur kind. This has been +actually determined to be the case towards the head of the North branch, +where the trade has been carried to about the latitude 54. North, and +longitude 114. 30. West. The bed and banks of the latter, in some few +places, discover a stratum of free-stone; but, in general, they are +composed of earth and sand. The plains are sand and gravel, covered +with fine grass, and mixed with a small quantity of vegetable earth, +This is particularly observable along the North branch, the West side of +which is covered with wood. + +There are on this river five principal factories for the convenience of +trade with the natives. Nepawi House, South-branch House, Fort-George +House, Fort-Augustus House, and Upper Establishment. There have been +many others, which, from various causes, have been changed for these, +while there are occasionally others depending on each of them. + +The inhabitants, from the information I could obtain, are as follow: + +At Nepawi and South-Branch House, about thirty tents of Knisteneaux, or +ninety warriors; and sixty tents of Stone Indians, or Assiniboins, who +are their neighbours, and are equal to two hundred men: their hunting +ground extends upwards to about the Eagle Hills. Next to them are those +who trade at Forts George and Augustus, and are about eighty tents or +upwards of Knisteneaux: on either side of the river, their number may be +two hundred. In the same country are one hundred and forty tents of +Stone Indians: not quite half of them inhabit the West woody country; +the others never leave the plains, and their numbers cannot be less than +four hundred and fifty men. At the Southern Head-waters of the +North-branch dwells a tribe called Sarsees, consisting of about +thirty-five tents, or one hundred and twenty men. Opposite to those +Eastward, on the head-waters of the South Branch, are the Picaneaux, to +the number of from twelve to fifteen hundred men. Next to them, on the +same water, are the Blood-Indians, of the same nation as the last, to +the number of about fifty tents, or two hundred and fifty men. From +them downwards extend the Black-Feet Indians, of the same nation as the +two last tribes: their number may be eight hundred men. Next to them, +and who extend to the confluence of the South and North branch, are the +Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, who may amount to about six hundred +warriors. + +Of all these different tribes, those who inhabit the broken country on +the North-West side, and the source of the North branch, are +beaver-hunters; the others deal in provisions, wolf, buffalo, and fox +skins; and many people on the South branch do not trouble themselves to +come near the trading establishments. Those who do, choose such +establishments as are next to their country. The Stone-Indians here, +are the same people as the Stone-Indians, or Assiniboins, who inhabit +the river of that name already described, and both are detached tribes +from the Nadowasis, who inhabit the Western side of the Mississippi, and +lower part of the Missisoury. The Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are +from the South-Eastward also, and of a people who inhabit the plains +from the North bend of the last mentioned river, latitude 47. +32. North, longitude 101. 25. West, to the South bend of the Assiniboin +River, to the number of seven hundred men. Some of them occasionally +come to the latter river to exchange dressed buffalo robes and bad +wolf-skins for articles of no great value. + +The Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood-Indians, are a distinct people, +speak a language of their own, and, I have reason to think, are +travelling North-West, as well as the others just mentioned: nor have I +heard of any Indians with whose language that which they speak has any +affinity.--They are the people who deal in horses, and take them upon +the war-parties towards Mexico; from which, it is evident, that the +country to the South-East of them consists of plains, as those animals +could not well be conducted through an hilly and woody country, +intersected by waters. + +The Sarsees, who are but few in number, appear from their language, to +come on the contrary from the North-West, and are of the same people as +the Rocky-Mountain Indians described in my second journal, who are a +tribe of the Chepewyans; and, as for the Knisteneaux, there is no +question of their having been, and continuing to be, invaders of this +country, from the Eastward. Formerly, they struck terror into all the +other tribes whom they met; but now they have lost the respect that was +paid them; as those whom they formerly considered as barbarians are now +their allies, and consequently become better acquainted with them, and +have acquired the use of fire-arms. The former are still proud without +power, and affect to consider the others as their inferiors: those +consequently are extremely jealous of them, and, depending upon their +own superiority in numbers, will not submit tamely to their insults; so +that the consequences often prove fatal, and the Knisteneaux are thereby +decreasing both in power and number; spirituous liquors also tend to +their diminution, as they are instigated thereby to engage in quarrels +which frequently have the most disastrous termination among themselves. + +The Stone-Indians must not be considered in the same point of view +respecting the Knisteneaux, for they have been generally obliged, from +various causes, to court their alliance. They, however, are not without +their disagreements, and it is sometimes very difficult to compose their +differences. These quarrels occasionally take place with the traders, +and sometimes have a tragical conclusion. They generally originate in +consequence of stealing women and horses: they have great numbers of the +latter throughout their plains, which are brought, as has been observed, +from the Spanish settlements in Mexico; and many of them have been seen +even in the back parts of this country, branded with the initials of +their original owners' names. Those horses are distinctly employed as +beasts of burden, and to chase the buffalo. The former are not +considered as being of much value, as they may be purchased for a gun, +which costs no more than twenty-one shillings in Great Britain. Many of +the hunters cannot be purchased with ten, the comparative value of which +exceeds the property of any native. + +Of these useful animals no care whatever is taken, as when they are no +longer employed, they are turned loose winter and summer to provide for +themselves. Here, it is to be observed, that the country, in general, +on the West and North side of this great river, is broken by the lakes +and rivers with small intervening plains, where the soil is good, and +the grass grows to some length. To these the male buffaloes resort for +the winter, and if it be very severe, the females also are obliged to +leave the plains. + +But to return to the route by which the progress West and North is made +through this continent. + +We leave the Saskatchiwine[10] by entering the river which forms the +discharge of the Sturgeon Lake, on whose East bank is situated +Cumberland house, in latitude 53. 56. North, longitude 102. 15. The +distance between the entrance and Cumberland house is estimated at +twenty miles. + +It is very evident that the mud which is carried down by the +Saskatchiwine River, has formed the land that lies between it and the +lake, for the distance of upwards of twenty miles in the line of the +river, which is inundated during one half of the summer, though covered +with wood. This lake forms an irregular horse-shoe, one side of which +runs to the North-West, and bears the name of Pine-Island Lake, and the +other, known by the name already mentioned, runs to the East of North, +and is the largest: its length is about twenty-seven miles, and its +greatest breadth about six miles. The North side of the latter is the +same kind of rock as that described in Lake Winipic, on the West shore. +In latitude 54. 16. North, the Sturgeon-Weir River discharges itself +into this lake, and its bed appears to be of the same kind of rock, and +is almost a continual rapid. Its direct course is about West by North, +and with its windings, is about thirty miles. It takes its waters into +the Beaver Lake the South-West side of which consists of the same rock +lying in thin stratas: the route then proceeds from island to island for +about twelve miles, and along the North shore, for four miles more, the +whole being a North-West course to the entrance of a river, in latitude +54. 32. North. The lake, for this distance, is about four or five miles +wide, and abounds with fish common to the country. The part of it upon +the right of that which has been described, appears more considerable. +The islands are rocky, and the lake itself surrounded by rocks. The +communication from hence to the Bouleau Lake, alternately narrows into +rivers and spreads into small lakes. The interruptions are, the Pente +Portage, which is succeeded by the Grand Rapid, where there is a +Decharge, the Carp Portage, the Bouleau Portage in latitude +54. 50. North, including a distance, together with the windings, of +thirty-four miles, in a Westerly direction. The Lake de Bouleau then +follows. This lake might with greater propriety be denominated a canal, +as it is not more than a mile in breadth. Its course is rather to the +East of North for twelve miles to Portage de L'Isle. From thence there +is still water to Portage d'Epinettes, except an adjoining rapid. The +distance is not more than four miles Westerly. After crossing this +Portage, it is not more than two miles to Lake Miron, which is in +latitude 55. 7. North. Its length is about twelve miles, and its +breadth irregular, from two to ten miles. It is only separated from +Lake du Chitique, or Pelican Lake, by a short, narrow, and small strait. +That lake is not more than seven miles long, and its course about +North-West. The Lake des Bois then succeeds, the passage to which is +through small lakes, separated by falls and rapids. The first is a +Decharge: then follow the three galets, in immediate succession. From +hence Lake des Bois runs about twenty-one miles. Its course is +South-South-East, and North-North-West, and is full of islands. The +passage continues through an intricate, narrow, winding, and shallow +channel for eight miles. The interruptions in this distance are +frequent, but depend much on the state of the waters. Having passed +them, it is necessary to cross the Portage de Traite, or, as it is +called by the Indians, Athiquisipichigan Ouinigam, or the Portage of the +Stretched Frog Skin, to the Missinipi. The waters already described +discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, and augment those of the river +Nelson. These which we are now entering are called the Missinipi, or +great Churchill River. + +All the country to the South and East of this, within the line of the +progress that has been described, is interspersed by lakes, hills, and +rivers, and is full or animals, of the fur-kind, as well as the +moose-deer. Its inhabitants are the Knisteneaux Indians, who are called +by the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, at York, their home-guards. + +The traders from Canada succeeded for several years in getting the +largest proportion of their furs, till the year 1793, when the servants +of that company thought proper to send people amongst them, (and why +they did not do it before is best known to themselves), for the purpose +of trade, and securing their credits, which the Indians were apt to +forget. From the short distance they had to come, and the quantity of +goods they supplied, the trade has, in a great measure, reverted to +them, as the merchants from Canada could not meet them upon equal terms. +What added to the loss of the latter, was the murder of one of their +traders by the Indians, about this period. Of these people not above +eighty men have been known to the traders from Canada, but they consist +of a much greater number. + +The Portage de Traite, as has been already hinted, received its name +from Mr. Joseph Frobisher, who penetrated into this part of the country +from Canada, as early as the years 1774 and 1775, where he met with the +Indians in the spring, on their way to Churchill, according to annual +custom, with their canoes full of valuable furs. They traded with him +for as many of them as his canoes could carry, and in consequence of +this transaction, the Portage received and has since retained its +present appellation. He also denominated these waters the English +River. The Missinipi is the name which it received from the +Knisteneaux, when they first came to this country, and either destroyed +or drove back the natives, whom they held in great contempt, on many +accounts, but particularly for their ignorance in hunting the beaver, as +well as in preparing, stretching, and drying the skins of those animals. +And as a sign of their derision, they stretched the skin of a frog, and +hung it up at the Portage. This was, at that time, the utmost extent of +their conquest or war-faring progress West, and is in latitude 55. +25. North, and longitude 103. 45. West. The river here, which bears the +appearance of a lake, takes its name from the Portage, and is full of +islands. It runs from East to West about sixteen miles, and is from +four to five miles broad. Then succeed falls and cascades which form +what is called the grand rapid. From thence there is a succession of +small lakes and rivers, interrupted by rapids and falls, viz., the +Portage de Bareel, the Portage de L'Isle, and that of the Rapid River. +The course is twenty miles from East-South-East to North-North-West. +The Rapid-River Lake then runs West five miles, and is of an oval form. +The rapid river is the discharge of Lake la Ronge, where there has been +an establishment for trade from the year 1782. Since the small-pox +ravaged these parts, there have been but few inhabitants; these are of +the Knisteneaux tribe, and do not exceed thirty men. The direct +navigation continues to be through rivers and canals, interrupted by +rapids; and the distance to the first Decharge is four miles, in a +Westerly direction. Then follows Lake de la Montagne, which runs +South-South-West three miles and an half, then North six miles, through +narrow channels, formed by islands, and continues North-North-West five +miles, to the portage of the same name, which is no sooner crossed, than +another appears in sight, leading to the Otter Lake, from whence it is +nine miles Westerly to the Otter Portage, in latitude 55. 39. Between +this and the Portage du Diable, are several rapids, and the distance +three miles and an half. Then succeeds the lake of the same name, +running from South-East to North-West, five miles, and West four miles +and an half. + +There is then a succession of small lakes, rapids, and falls, producing +the Portage des Ecors, Portage du Galet, and Portage des Morts, the +whole comprehending a distance of six miles, to the lake of the latter +name. On the left side is a point covered with human bones, the relics +of the small-pox; which circumstance gave the Portage and the lake this +melancholy denomination. Its course is South-West fifteen miles, while +its breadth does not exceed three miles. From thence a rapid river +leads to Portage de Hallier, which is followed by Lake de Isle d'Ours: +it is, however, improperly called a lake, as it contains frequent +impediments amongst its islands, from rapids. There is a very dangerous +one about the centre of it, which is named the Rapid qui ne parle point, +or that never speaks, from its silent whirlpool-motion. In some of the +whirlpools the suction is so powerful, that they are carefully avoided. +At some distance from the silent rapid is a narrow strait, where the +Indians have painted red figures on the face of a rock, and where it was +their custom formerly to make an offering of some of the articles which +they had with them, in their way to and from Churchill. The course of +this lake, which is very meandering, may be estimated at thirty-eight +miles, and is terminated by the Portage du Canot Tourner, from the +danger to which those are subject who venture to run this rapid. From +thence a river of one mile and an half North-West course leads to the +Portage de Bouleau, and in about half a mile to Portage des Epingles, so +called from the sharpness of its stones. Then follows the Lake des +Souris, the direction across which is amongst islands, North-West by +West six miles. In this traverse is an island, which is remarkable for +a very large stone, in the form of a bear, on which the natives have +painted the head and snout of that animal; and here they also were +formerly accustomed to offer sacrifices. This lake is separated only by +a narrow strait from the Lake du Serpent, which runs North-North-West +seven miles, to a narrow channel, that connects it with another lake, +bearing the same name, and running the same course for eleven miles, +when the rapid of the same denomination is entered on the West side of +the lake. It is to be remarked here, that for about three or four miles +on the North-West side of this lake, there is an high bank of clay and +sand, clothed with cypress trees, a circumstance which is not observable +on any lakes hitherto mentioned, as they are bounded, particularly on +the North, by black and grey rocks. It may also be considered as a most +extraordinary circumstance, that the Chepewyans go North-West from hence +to the barren grounds, which are their own country, without the +assistance of canoes; as it is well known that in every other part which +has been described, from Cumberland House, the country is broken on +either side of the direction to a great extent: so that a traveller +could not go at right angles with any of the waters already mentioned, +without meeting with others in every eight or ten miles. This will also +be found to be very much the case in proceeding to Portage la Loche. + +The last mentioned rapid is upwards of three miles long, North-West by +West; there is, however, no carrying, as the line and poles are +sufficient to drag and set the canoes against the current. Lake Croche +is then crossed in a Westerly direction of six miles, though its whole +length may be twice that distance: after which it contracts to a river +that runs Westerly for ten miles, when it forms a bend, which is left to +the South, and entering a portion of its waters called the Grass River, +whose meandering course is about six miles, but in a direct line not +more than half that length, where it receives its waters from the great +river, which then runs Westerly eleven miles before it forms the Knee +Lake, whose direction is to the North of West. It is full of islands +for eighteen miles, and its greatest apparent breadth is not more than +five miles. The portage of the same name is several hundred yards long, +and over large stones. Its latitude is 55. 50. and longitude 106. 30. +Two miles further North is the commencement of the Croche Rapid, which +is a succession of cascades for about three miles, making a bend due +South to the Lake du Primeau, whose course is various, and through +islands, to the distance of about fifteen miles. The banks of this lake +are low, stony, and marshy, whose grass and rushes afford shelter and +food to great numbers of wild fowl. At its Western extremity is Portage +la Puise, from whence the river takes a meandering course, widening and +contracting at intervals, and is much interrupted by rapids. After a +Westerly course of twenty miles, it reaches Portage Pellet. From hence, +in the course of seven miles, are three rapids, to which succeeds the +Shagoina Lake, which may be eighteen miles in circumference. Then +Shagoina strait and rapid lead into the Lake of Isle a la Crosse, in +which the course is South twenty miles, and South-South-West fourteen +miles, to the Point au Sable; opposite to which is the discharge of the +Beaver-River, bearing South six miles: the lake in the distance run, +does not exceed twelve miles in its greatest breadth. It now turns +West-South-West, the Isle a la Crosse being on the South, and the main +land on the North; and it clears the one and the other in the distance +of three miles, the water presenting an open horizon to right and left; +that on the left formed by a deep narrow bay, about ten leagues in +depth; and that to the right by what is called la Riviere Creuse, or +Deep River, being a canal of still water, which is here four miles wide. +On following the last course, Isle a la Crosse Fort appears on a low +isthmus, at the distance of five miles, and is in latitude +55. 25. North, and longitude 107. 48. West. + +This lake and fort take their names from the island just mentioned, +which, as has been already observed, received its denomination from the +game of the cross, which forms a principal amusement among the natives. + +The situation of this lake, the abundance of the finest fish in the +world to be found in its waters, the richness of its surrounding banks +and forests, in moose and fallow deer, with the vast numbers of the +smaller tribes of animals, whose skins are precious, and the numerous +flocks of wild fowl that frequent it in the spring and fall, make it a +most desirable spot for the constant residence of some, and the +occasional rendezvous of others of the inhabitants of the country, +particularly of the Knisteneaux. + +Who the original people were that were driven from it, when conquered by +the Knisteneaux, is not now known, as not a single vestige remains of +them. The latter, and the Chepewyans, are the only people that have +been known here; and it is evident that the last-mentioned consider +themselves as strangers, and seldom remain longer than three or four +years, without visiting their relations and friends in the barren +grounds, which they term their native country. They were for some time +treated by the Knisteneaux as enemies; who now allow them to hunt to the +North of the track which has been described, from Fort du Traite +upwards, but when they occasionally meet them, they insist on +contributions, and frequently punish resistance with their arms. This +is sometimes done at the forts, or places of trade, but then it appears +to be a voluntary gift. A treat of rum is expected on the occasion, +which the Chepewyans on no other account ever purchase; and those only +who have had frequent intercourse with the Knisteneaux have any +inclination to drink it. + +When the Europeans first penetrated into this country, in 1777, the +people of both tribes were numerous, but the small-pox was fatal to them +all, so that there does not exist of the one, at present, more than +forty resident families; and the other has been from about thirty to two +hundred families. These numbers are applicable to the constant and less +ambitious inhabitants, who are satisfied with the quiet possession of a +country affording, without risk or much trouble, every thing necessary +to their comfort; for since traders have spread themselves over it, it +is no more the rendezvous of the errant Knisteneaux, part of whom used +annually to return thither from the country of the Beaver River, which +they had explored to its source in their war and hunting excursions, and +as far as the Saskatchiwine, where they sometimes met people of their +own nation, who had prosecuted similar conquests up that river. In that +country they found abundance of fish and animals, such as have been +already described, with the addition of the buffaloes, who range in the +partial patches of meadow scattered along the rivers and lakes. From +thence they returned in the spring to their friends whom they had left; +and, at the same time met with others who had penetrated with the same +designs into the Athabasca country, which will be described hereafter. + +The spring was the period of this joyful meeting, when their time was +occupied in feasting, dancing, and other pastimes, which were +occasionally suspended for sacrifice, and religious solemnity: while the +narratives of their travels, and the history of their wars, amused and +animated the festival. The time of rejoicing was but short, and was +soon interrupted by the necessary preparations for their annual journey +to Churchill, to exchange their furs for such European articles as were +now become necessary to them. The shortness of the seasons, and the +great length of their way requiring the utmost despatch, the most active +men of the tribe, with their youngest women, and a few of their children +undertook the voyage, under the direction of some of their chiefs, +following the waters already described, to their discharge at Churchill +Factory, which are called, as has already been observed, the Missinipi, +or Great Waters. There they remained no longer than was sufficient to +barter their commodities, with a supernumerary day or two to gratify +themselves with the indulgence of spirituous liquors. At the same time +the inconsiderable quantity they could purchase to carry away with them, +for a regale with their friends, was held sacred, and reserved to +heighten the enjoyment of their return home, when the amusements, +festivity, and religious solemnities of the spring were repeated. The +usual time appropriated to these convivialities being completed, they +separated, to pursue their different objects; and if they were +determined to go to war, they made the necessary arrangements for their +future operations. + +But we must now renew the progress of the route. It is not more than +two miles from Isle a la Crosse Fort, to a point of land which forms a +cheek of that part of the lake called the Riviere Creuse, which +preserves the breadth already mentioned for upwards of twenty miles; +then contracts to about two, for the distance of ten miles more, when it +opens to Lake Clear, which is very wide, and commands an open horizon, +keeping the West shore for six miles. The whole of the distance +mentioned is about North-West, when, by a narrow, crooked channel, +turning to the South of West, the entry is made into Lake du Boeuf, +which is contracted near the middle, by a projecting sandy point; +independent of which it may be described as from six to twelve miles in +breadth, thirty-six miles long, and in a North-West direction. At the +North-West end, in latitude 56. 8. it receives the waters of the river +la Loche, which, in the fall of the year, is very shallow, and navigated +with difficulty even by half-laden canoes. Its water is not sufficient +to form strong rapids, though from its rocky bottom the canoes are +frequently in considerable danger. Including its meanders, the course +of this river may be computed at twenty-four miles, and receives its +first waters from the lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles +long, and six wide; into which a small river flows, sufficient to bear +loaded canoes, for about a mile and an half, where the navigation +ceases; and the canoes, with their lading, are carried over the Portage +la Loche for thirteen miles. + +This portage is the ridge that divides the waters which discharge +themselves into Hudson's Bay, from those that flow into the Northern +ocean, and is in the latitude 56. 20. and longitude 109. 15. West. It +runs South-West until it loses its local height between the +Saskatchiwine and Elk Rivers; close on the bank of the former, in +latitude 53. 36. North, and longitude 113. 45. West, it may be traced +in an Easterly direction toward latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude +103½. West, when it appears to take its course due North, and may +probably reach the Frozen Seas. + +From Lake le Souris, the banks of the rivers and lakes display a smaller +portion of solid rock. The land is low and stony, intermixed with a +light, sandy soil, and clothed with wood. That of the Beaver River is +of a more productive quality: but no part of it has ever been cultivated +by the natives or Europeans, except a small garden at the Isle a la +Crosse, which well repaid the labour bestowed upon it. + +The Portage la Loche is of a level surface, in some parts abounding with +stones, but in general it is an entire sand, and covered with the +cypress, the pine, the spruce fir, and other trees natural to its soil. +Within three miles of the North-West termination, there is a small round +lake, whose diameter does not exceed a mile, and which affords a +trifling respite to the labour of carrying. Within a mile of the +termination of the Portage is a very steep precipice, whose ascent and +descent appears to be equally impracticable in any way, as it consists +of a succession of eight hills, some of which are almost perpendicular; +nevertheless, the Canadians contrive to surmount all these difficulties, +even with their canoes and lading. + +This precipice, which rises upwards of a thousand feet above the plain +beneath it, commands a most extensive, romantic, and ravishing prospect. +From thence the eye looks down on the course of the little river, by +some called the Swan river, and by others, the Clear-Water and Pelican +river, beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles. The valley, +which is at once refreshed and adorned by it, is about three miles in +breadth, and is confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying +a most beautiful intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on till +the blue mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining +heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by promontories of +the finest verdure, where the elk and buffalo find pasture. These are +contrasted by spots where fire has destroyed the woods, and left a +dreary void behind it. Nor, when I beheld this wonderful display of +uncultivated nature, was the moving scenery of human occupation wanting +to complete the picture. From this elevated situation, I beheld my +people, diminished, as it were, to half their size, employed in pitching +their tents in a charming meadow, and among the canoes, which, being +turned upon their sides, presented their reddened bottoms in contrast +with the surrounding verdure. At the same time, the process of gumming +them produced numerous small spires of smoke, which, as they rose, +enlivened the scene, and at length blended with the larger columns that +ascended from the fires where the suppers were preparing. It was in the +month of September when I enjoyed a scene, of which I do not presume to +give an adequate description; and as it was the rutting season of the +elk, the whistling of that animal was heard in all the variety which the +echoes could afford it. + +This river, which waters and reflects such enchanting scenery, runs, +including its windings, upwards of eighty miles, when it discharges +itself in the Elk River, according to the denomination of the natives, +but commonly called by the white people, the Athabasca River, in +latitude 56. 42. North. + +At a small distance from Portage la Loche, several carrying-places +interrupt the navigation of the river; about the middle of which are +some mineral springs, whose margins are covered with sulphureous +incrustations. At the junction or fork, the Elk River is about three +quarters of a mile in breadth, and runs in a steady current, sometimes +contracting, but never increasing its channel, till, after receiving +several small streams, it discharges itself into the Lake of the Hills, +in latitude 58. 36. North. At about twenty-four miles from the Fork, +are some bituminous fountains, into which a pole of twenty feet long may +be inserted without the least resistance. The bitumen is in a fluid +state, and when mixed with gum, or the resinous substance collected from +the spruce fir, serves to gum the canoes. In its heated state it emits +a smell like that of sea-coal. The banks of the river, which are there +very elevated, discover veins of the same bituminous quality. At a +small distance from the Fork, houses have been erected for the +convenience of trading with a party of the Knisteneaux, who visit the +adjacent country for the purpose of hunting. + +At the distance of about forty miles from the lake, is the Old +Establishment, which has been already mentioned, as formed by Mr. Pond +in the year 1778-9, and which was the only one in this part of the +world, till the year 1785. In the year 1788 it was transferred to the +Lake of the Hills, and formed on a point on its Southern side, at about +eight miles from the discharge of the river. It was named Fort +Chepewyan, and is in latitude 58. 38. North, longitude 110. 26. West, +and much better situated for trade and fishing as the people here have +recourse to water for their support. + +This being the place which I made my headquarters for eight years, and +from whence I took my departure, on both my expeditions, I shall give +some account of it, with the manner of carrying on the trade there, and +other circumstances connected with it. + +The laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie about the first of August, do +not arrive here till the latter end of September, or the beginning of +October, when a necessary proportion of them is despatched up the Peace +River to trade with the Beaver and Rocky-Mountain Indians. Others are +sent to the Slave River and Lake, or beyond them, and traffic with the +inhabitants of that country. A small part of them, if not left at the +Fork of the Elk River, return thither for the Knisteneaux, while the +rest of the people and merchandise remain here, to carry on trade with +the Chepewyans. + +Here have I arrived with ninety or an hundred men without any provision +for their sustenance; for whatever quantity might have been obtained +from the natives during the summer, it could not be more than sufficient +for the people despatched to their different posts; and even if there +were a casual superfluity, it was absolutely necessary to preserve it +untouched, for the demands of the spring. The whole dependence, +therefore, of those who remained, was on the lake, and fishing +implements for the means of our support. The nets are sixty fathom in +length, when set, and contain fifteen meshes of five inches in depth. +The manner of using them is as follows: A small stone and wooden buoy +are fastened to the side-line opposite to each other, at about the +distance of two fathoms; when the net is carefully thrown into the +water, the stone sinks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at its +full extent, and it is secured in its situation by a stone at either +end. The nets are visited every day, and taken out every other day to +be cleaned and dried. This is a very ready operation when the waters +are not frozen, but when the frost has set in, and the ice has acquired +its greatest thickness, which is sometimes as much as five feet, holes +are cut in it at the distance of thirty feet from each other, to the +full length of the net; one of them is larger than the rest, being +generally about four feet square, and is called the basin: by means of +them, and poles of a proportionable length, the nets are placed in and +drawn out of the water. The setting of hooks and lines is so simple an +employment as to render a description unnecessary. The white fish are +the principal object of pursuit: they spawn in the fall of the year, +and, at about the setting in of the hard frost, crowd in shoals to the +shallow water, when as many as possible are taken, in order that a +portion of them may be laid by in the frost to provide against the +scarcity of winter; as, during that season, the fish of every +description decrease in the lakes, if they do not altogether disappear. +Some have supposed that during this period they are stationary, or +assume an inactive state. If there should be any intervals of warm +weather during the fall, it is necessary to suspend the fish by the +tail, though they are not so good as those which are altogether +preserved by the frost. In this state they remain to the beginning of +April, when they have been found as sweet as when they were caught.[11] + +Thus do these voyagers live, year after year, entirely upon fish, +without even the quickening flavour of salt, or the variety of any +farinaceous root or vegetable. Salt, however, if their habits had not +rendered it unnecessary, might be obtained in this country to the +Westward of the Peace River, where it loses its name in that of the +Slave River, from the numerous salt-ponds and springs to be found there, +which will supply in any quantity, in a state of concretion, and +perfectly white and clean. When the Indians pass that way they bring a +small quantity to the fort, with other articles of traffic. + +During a short period of the spring and fall, great numbers of wild fowl +frequent this country, which prove a very gratifying food after such a +long privation of flesh-meat. It is remarkable, however, that the +Canadians who frequent the Peace, Saskatchiwine, and Assiniboin rivers, +and live altogether on venison, have a less healthy appearance than +those whose sustenance is obtained from the waters. At the same time +the scurvy is wholly unknown among them. + +In the fall of the year the natives meet the traders at the forts, where +they barter the furs or provisions which they may have procured; they +then obtain credit, and proceed to hunt the beavers, and do not return +till the beginning of the year; when they are again fitted out in the +same manner and come back the latter end of March, or the beginning of +April; They are now unwilling to repair to the beaver hunt until the +waters, are clear of ice, that they may kill them with fire-arms, which +the Chepewyans are averse to employ. The major part of the latter +return to the barren grounds, and live during the summer with their +relations and friends in the enjoyment of that plenty which is derived +from numerous herds of deer. But those of that tribe who are most +partial to these deserts, cannot remain there in winter, and they are +obliged, with the deer, to take shelter in the woods during that +rigorous season, when they contrive to kill a few beavers, and send them +by young men, to exchange for iron utensils and ammunition. + +Till the year 1782, the people of Athabasca sent or carried their furs +regularly to Fort Churchill, Hudson's Bay; and some of them have, since +that time, repaired thither, notwithstanding they could have provided +themselves with all the necessaries which they required. The difference +of the price set on goods here and at the factory, made it an object +with the Chepewyans to undertake a journey of five or six months, in the +course of which they were reduced to the most painful extremities, and +often lost their lives from hunger and fatigue, At present, however, +this traffic is in a great measure discontinued, as they were obliged to +expend in the course of their journey, that very ammunition which was +its most alluring object. + +[1] This might be properly called the stock of the company, as it +included, with the expenditure of the year, the amount of the property +unexpended, which had been appropriated for the adventure of that year, +and was carried on to the account of the following adventure. + +[2] This will be better illustrated by the following statement:--We +will suppose the goods for 1798: The orders for the goods are sent to +this country 25th October, 1796; they are shipped from London March, +1797; they arrive in Montreal June, 1797; they are made up in the course +of that summer and winter; they are sent from Montreal May, 1798; they +arrive in the Indian country, and are exchanged for furs the following +winter, 1798-99; which furs come to Montreal September, 1799; and are +shipped for London; where they are sold in March and April, and paid for +in May or June, 1800. + +[3] The place where the goods alone are carried, is called a _Decharge_, +and that where goods and canoes are both transported overland, is +denominated a _Portage_. + +[4] In the year 1668, when the first missionaries visited the South of +this lake, they found the country full of inhabitants. They relate, +that about this time a band of the Nepisingues, who were converted, +emigrated to the Nipigon country, which is to the North of Lake +Superior. Few of their descendants are now remaining, and not a trace +of the religion communicated to them is to be discovered. + +[5] Corn is the cheapest provision that can be procured, though from the +expense of transport, the bushel costs about twenty shillings sterling, +at the Grande Portage. A man's daily allowance does not exceed +ten-pence. + +[6] Here is a most excellent fishery for white fish, which are +exquisite. + +[7] The route which we have been travelling hitherto, leads along the +high rocky land or bank of Lake Superior on the left. The face of the +country offers a wild scene of huge hills and rocks, separated by stony +valleys, lakes and ponds. Wherever there is the least soil, it is well +covered with trees. + +[8] The fruits are, strawberries, hurtleberries, plums, and cherries, +hazelnuts, gooseberries, currents, raspberries, poires, etc. + +[9] This was also a principal post of the French, who gave it its name. + +[10] It may be proper to observe, that the French had two settlements +upon the Saskatchiwine, long before, and at the conquest of Canada; the +first at the Pasquia, near Carrot River, and the other at Nipawi, where +they had agricultural instruments and wheel carriages, marks of both +being found about those establishments, where the soil is excellent. + +[11] This fishery requires the most unremitting attention, as the +voyaging Canadians are equally indolent, extravagant, and improvident, +when left to themselves, and rival the savages in a neglect of the +morrow. + + + + +SOME ACCOUNT OF THE KNISTENEAUX INDIANS. + + +These people are spread over a vast extent of country. Their language +is the same as that of the people who inhabit the coast of British +America on the Atlantic, with the exception of the Esquimaux,[1] and +continues along the coast of Labrador, and the gulf and banks of +St. Laurence to Montreal. + +The line then follows the Utawas river to its source; and continues from +thence nearly West along the highlands which divides the waters that +fall into Lake Superior and Hudson's Bay. It then proceeds till it +strikes the middle part of the river Winipic, following that water to +the Lake Winipic, to the discharge of the Saskatchiwine into it; from +thence it accompanies the latter to Fort George, when the line, striking +by the head of the Beaver river to the Elk river, runs along its banks +to its discharge in the Lake of the Hills; from which it may be carried +back East, to the Isle a la Crosse, and so on to Churchill by the +Missinipi, The whole of the tract between this line and Hudson's Bay and +Straits (except that of the Esquimaux in the latter), may be said to be +exclusively the country of the Knisteneaux. Some of them indeed, have +penetrated further West and South to the Red River, to the South of Lake +Winipic, and the South branch of the Saskatchiwine. + +They are of a moderate stature, well proportioned, and of great +activity. Examples of deformity are seldom to be seen among them. +Their complexion is of a copper colour, and their hair black, which is +common to all the natives of North America. It is cut in various forms, +according to the fancy of the several tribes, and by some is left in the +long, lank, flow of nature. They very generally extract their beards, +and both sexes manifest a disposition to pluck the hair from every part +of their body and limbs. Their eyes are black, keen, and penetrating; +their countenance open and agreeable, and it is a principal object of +their vanity to give every possible decoration to their persons. A +material article in their toilets is vermilion, which they contrast with +their native blue, white, and brown earths, to which charcoal is +frequently added. + +Their dress is at once simple and commodious. It consists of tight +leggins, reaching near the hip: a strip of cloth or leather, called +assian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, whose ends are drawn +inwards and hang behind and before, over a belt tied round the waist for +that purpose: a close vest or shirt reaching down to the former garment, +and cinctured with a broad strip of parchment fastened with thongs +behind; and a cap for the head, consisting of a piece of fur, or small +skin, with the brush of the animal as a suspended ornament: a kind of +robe is thrown occasionally over the whole of the dress, and serves both +night and day. These articles, with the addition of shoes and mittens, +constitute the variety of their apparel. The materials vary according +to the season, and consist of dressed moose-skin, beaver prepared with +the fur, or European woollens. The leather is neatly painted, and +fancifully worked in some parts with porcupine quills, and moose-deer +hair: the shirts and leggins are also adorned with fringe and tassels; +nor are the shoes and mittens without somewhat of appropriate +decoration, and worked with a considerable degree of skill and taste. +These habiliments are put on, however, as fancy or convenience suggests; +and they will sometimes proceed to the chase in the severest frost, +covered only with the slightest of them. + + +Their head-dresses are composed of the feathers of the swan, the eagle, +and other birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of different animals, are +also the occasional ornaments of the head and neck. Their hair, however +arranged, is always besmeared with grease. The making of every article +of dress is a female occupation; and the women, though by no means +inattentive to the decoration of their own persons, appear to have a +still greater degree of pride in attending to the appearance of the men, +whose faces are painted with more care than those of the women. + +The female dress is formed of the same materials as those of the other +sex, but of a different make and arrangement. Their shoes are commonly +plain, and their leggins gartered beneath the knee. The coat, or body +covering, falls down to the middle of the leg, and is fastened over the +shoulders with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight inches, +both before and behind, and agreeably ornamented with quill-work and +fringe; the bottom is also fringed, and fancifully painted as high as +the knee. As it is very loose, it is enclosed round the waist with a +stiff belt, decorated with tassels, and fastened behind. The arms are +covered to the wrist, with detached sleeves, which are sewed as far as +the bend of the arm; from thence they are drawn up to the neck, and the +corners of them fall down behind, as low as the waist. The cap, when +they wear one, consists of a certain quantity of leather or cloth, sewed +at one end, by which means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down the +back, is fastened to the belt, as well as under the chin. The upper +garment is a robe like that worn by the men. Their hair is divided on +the crown, and tied behind, or sometimes fastened in large knots over +the ears. They are fond of European articles, and prefer them to their +own native commodities. Their ornaments consist in common with all +savages, in bracelets, rings, and similar baubles. Some of the women +tattoo three perpendicular lines, which are sometimes double: one from +the centre of the chin to that of the under lip, and one parallel on +either side to the corner of the mouth. + +Of all the nations which I have seen on this continent, the Knisteneaux +women are the most comely. Their figure is generally well proportioned, +and the regularity of their features would be acknowledged by the more +civilized people of Europe. Their complexion has less of that dark +tinge which is common to those savages who have less cleanly habits. + +These people are, in general, subject to few disorders. The lues +venera, however, is a common complaint, but cured by the application of +simples, with whose virtues they appear to be well acquainted. They are +also subject to fluxes, and pains in the breast, which some have +attributed to the very keen and cold air which they inhale; but I should +imagine that these complaints must frequently proceed from their +immoderate indulgence in fat meat at their feasts, particularly when +they have been preceded by long fasting. + +They are naturally mild and affable, as well as just in their dealings, +not only among themselves, but with strangers.[2] They are also generous +and hospitable, and good-natured in the extreme, except when their +nature is perverted by the inflammatory influence of spirituous liquors. +To their children they are indulgent to a fault. The father, though he +assumes no command over them, is ever anxious to instruct them in all +the preparatory qualifications for war and hunting; while the mother is +equally attentive to her daughters in teaching them every thing that is +considered as necessary to their character and situation. It does not +appear that the husband makes any distinction between the children of +his wife, though they may be the offspring of different fathers. +Illegitimacy is only attached to those who are born before their mothers +have cohabited with any man by the title of husband. + +It does not appear, that chastity is considered by them as a virtue; or +that fidelity is believed to be essential to the happiness of wedded +life, Though it sometimes happens that the infidelity of a wife is +punished by the husband with the loss of her hair, nose, and perhaps +life; such severity proceeds from its having been practised without his +permission: for a temporary interchange of wives is not uncommon: and +the offer of their persons is considered as a necessary part of the +hospitality due to strangers. + +When a man loses his wife, it is considered as a duty to marry her +sister, if she has one; or he may, if he pleases, have them both at the +same time. + +It will appear from the fatal consequences I have repeatedly imputed to +the use of spirituous liquors that I more particularly consider these +people as having been, morally speaking, great sufferers from their +communication with the subjects of civilized nations. At the same time +they were not, in a state of nature, without their vices, and some of +them of a kind which is the most abhorrent to cultivated and reflecting +man. I shall only observe, that incest and bestiality are among them. + +When a young man marries, he immediately goes to live with the father +and mother of his wife, who treat him, nevertheless, as a perfect +stranger, till after the birth of his first child: he then attaches +himself more to them than his own parents; and his wife no longer gives +him any other denomination than that of the father of her child. + +The profession of the men is war and hunting, and the more active scene +of their duty is the field of battle, and the chase in the woods. They +also spear fish, but the management of the nets is left to the women. +The females of this nation are in the same subordinate state with those +of all other savage tribes, but the severity of their labour is much +diminished by their situation on the banks of lakes and rivers, where +they employ canoes. In the winter, when the waters are frozen, they +make their journeys, which are never of any great length, with sledges +drawn by dogs. They are, at the same time, subject to every kind of +domestic drudgery; they dress the leather, make the clothes and shoes, +weave the nets, collect wood, erect the tents, fetch water, and perform +every culinary service; so that when the duties of maternal care are +added, it will appear, that the life of these women is an uninterrupted +succession of toil and pain. This, indeed, is the sense they entertain +of their own situation; and under the influence of that sentiment, they +are sometimes known to destroy their female children, to save them from +the miseries which they themselves have suffered. They also have a +ready way, by the use of certain simples, of procuring abortions, which +they sometimes practise, from their hatred of the father, or to save +themselves the trouble which children occasion: and, as I have been +credibly informed, this unnatural act is repeated without any injury to +the health of the women who perpetrate it. + +The funeral rites begin, like all other solemn ceremonials, with +smoking, and are concluded by a feast. The body is dressed in the best +habiliments possessed by the deceased, or his relations, and is then +deposited in a grave lined with branches; some domestic utensils are +place on it, and a kind of canopy erected over it. During this +ceremony, great lamentations are made, and if the departed person is +very much regretted, the near relations cut off their hair, pierce the +fleshy part of their thighs and arms with arrows, knives, etc, and +blacken their faces with charcoal. If they have distinguished +themselves in war, they are sometimes laid on a kind of scaffolding; and +I have been informed, that women, as in the East, have been known to +sacrifice themselves to the manes of their husbands. The whole of the +property belonging to the departed person is destroyed, and the +relations take in exchange for the wearing apparel, any rags that will +cover their nakedness. The feast bestowed on the occasion, which is, or +at least used to be, repeated annually, is accompanied with eulogiums on +the deceased, and without any acts of ferocity. On the tomb are carved +or painted the symbols of his tribe, which are taken from the different +animals of the country. + +Many and various are the motives which induce a savage to engage in war. +To prove his courage, or to revenge the death of his relations, or some +of his tribe, by the massacre of an enemy. If the tribe feel themselves +called upon to go to war, the elders convene the people, in order to +know the general opinion. If it be for war, the chief publishes his +intention to smoke in the sacred stem at a certain period, to which +solemnity, meditation and fasting are required as preparatory +ceremonials. When the people are thus assembled, and the meeting +sanctified by the custom of smoking, the chief enlarges on the causes +which have called them together, and the necessity of the measures +proposed on the occasion. He then invites those who are willing to +follow him, to smoke out of the sacred stem, which is considered as the +token of enrolment; and if it should be the general opinion that +assistance is necessary, others are invited, with great formality, to +join them. Every individual who attends these meetings, brings +something with him as a token of his warlike intention, or as an object +of sacrifice, which, when the assembly dissolves, is suspended from +poles near the place of council. + +They have frequent feasts, and particular circumstances never fail to +produce them, such as a tedious illness, long fasting, etc. On these +occasions it is usual for the person who means to give the +entertainment, to announce his design, on a certain day, of opening the +medicine-bag, and smoking out of his sacred stem. This declaration is +considered as a sacred vow that cannot be broken. There are also stated +periods, such as the spring and autumn, when they engage in very long +and solemn ceremonies. On these occasions dogs are offered as +sacrifices, and those which are very fat, and milk-white, are preferred. +They also make large offerings of their property, whatever it may be. +The scene of these ceremonies is in an open inclosure on the bank of a +river or lake, and in the most conspicuous situation, in order that such +as are passing along or travelling, may be induced to make their +offerings. There is also a particular custom among them, that, on these +occasions, if any of the tribe, or even a stranger, should be passing +by, and be in real want of any thing that is displayed as an offering, +he has a right to take it, so that he replaces it with some article he +can spare, though it be of far inferior value; but to take or touch any +thing wantonly is considered as a sacrilegious act, and highly insulting +to the great Master of Life, to use their own expression, who is the +sacred object of their devotion. + +The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge of the person who performs +it, which is prepared for that purpose, by removing every thing out of +it, and spreading green branches in every part. The fire and ashes are +also taken away. A new hearth is made of fresh, earth, and another fire +is lighted. The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it; and he +begins the ceremony by spreading a piece of new cloth, or a well-dressed +moose-skin neatly painted, on which he opens his medicine-bag and +exposes its contents, consisting of various articles. The principal of +them is a kind of household god, which is a small carved image about +eight inches long. Its first covering is of down, over which a piece of +birch-bark is closely tied, and the whole is enveloped in several folds +of red and blue cloth. This little figure is an object of the most +pious regard. The next article is his war-cap, which is decorated with +the feathers and plumes of scarce birds, beavers, and eagle's claws, +etc. There is also suspended from it a quill or feather for every enemy +whom the owner of it has slain in battle. The remaining contents of the +bag are, a piece of Brazil tobacco, several roots and simples, which are +in great estimation for their medicinal qualities, and a pipe. These +articles being all exposed, and the stem resting upon two forks, as it +must not touch the ground, the master of the lodge sends for the person +he most esteems, who sits down opposite to him; the pipe is then filled +and fixed to the stem. A pair of wooden pincers is provided to put the +fire in the pipe, and a double-pointed pin, to empty it of the remnant +of tobacco which is not consumed. This arrangement being made, the men +assemble, and sometimes the women are allowed to be humble spectators, +while the most religious awe and solemnity pervades the whole. The +Michiniwais, or Assistant, takes up the pipe, lights it, and presents it +to the officiating person, who receives it standing and holds it between +both his hands. He then turns himself to the East, and draws a few +whiffs, which he blows to that point. The same ceremony he observes to +the other three quarters, with his eyes directed upwards during the +whole of it. He holds the stem about the middle between the three first +fingers of both hands, and raising them upon a line with his forehead, +he swings it three times round from the East, with the sun, when, after +pointing and balancing it in various directions, he reposes it on the +forks: he then makes a speech to explain the design of their being +called together, which concludes with an acknowledgment for past +mercies, and a prayer for the continuance of them, from the Master of +Life. He then sits down, and the whole company declare their +approbation and thanks by uttering the word _ho!_ with an emphatic +prolongation of the last letter. The Michiniwais then takes up the pipe +and holds it to the mouth of the officiating person, who, after smoking +three whiffs out of it, utters a short prayer, and then goes round with +it, taking his course from East to West, to every person present, who +individually says something to him on the occasion; and thus the pipe is +generally smoked out; when, after turning it three or four times round +his head, he drops it downwards, and replaces it in its original +situation. He then returns the company thanks for their attendance, and +wishes them, as well as the whole tribe, health and long life. + +These smoking rites precede every matter of great importance with more +or less ceremony, but always with equal solemnity. The utility of them +will appear from the following relation. + +If a chief is anxious to know the disposition of his people towards him, +or if he wishes to settle any difference between them, he announces his +intention of opening his medicine-bag and smoking in his sacred stem; +and no man who entertains a grudge against any of the party thus +assembled can smoke with the sacred stem; as that ceremony dissipates +all differences, and is never violated. + +No one can avoid attending on these occasions; but a person may attend +and be excused from assisting at the ceremonies, by acknowledging that +he has not undergone the necessary purification. The having cohabited +with his wife, or any other woman, within twenty-four hours preceding +the ceremony, renders him unclean, and, consequently, disqualifies him +from performing any part of it. If a contract is entered into and +solemnised by the ceremony of smoking, it never fails of being +faithfully fulfilled. If a person, previous to his going a journey, +leaves the sacred stem as a pledge of his return, no consideration +whatever will prevent him from executing his engagement.[3] + +The chief, when he proposes to make a feast, sends quills, or small +pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation to such as he wishes to partake +of it. At the appointed time the guests arrive, each bringing a dish or +platter, and a knife, and take their seats on each side of the chief, +who receives them sitting, according to their respective ages. The pipe +is then lighted, and he makes an equal division of every thing that is +provided. While the company are enjoying their meal, the chief sings, +and accompanies his song with the tambourine, or shishiquoi, or rattle. +The guest who has first eaten his portion is considered as the most +distinguished person. If there should be any who cannot finish the +whole of their mess, they endeavour to prevail on some of their friends +to eat it for them, who are rewarded for their assistance with +ammunition and tobacco. It is proper also to remark, that at these +feasts a small quantity of meat or drink is sacrificed, before they +begin to eat, by throwing it into the fire, or on the earth. + +These feasts differ according to circumstances; sometimes each man's +allowance is no more than he can despatch in a couple of hours. At +other times the quantity is sufficient to supply each of them with food +for a week, though it must be devoured in a day. On these occasions it +is very difficult to procure substitutes, and the whole must be eaten +whatever time it may require. At some of these entertainments there is +a more rational arrangement, when the guests are allowed to carry home +with them the superfluous part of their portions. Great care is always +taken that the bones may be burned, as it would be considered a +profanation were the dogs permitted to touch them. + +The public feasts are conducted in the same manner, but with some +additional ceremony. Several chiefs officiate at them, and procure the +necessary provisions, as well as prepare a proper place of reception for +the numerous company. Here the guests discourse upon public topics, +repeat the heroic deeds of their forefathers, and excite the rising +generation to follow their example. The entertainments on these +occasions consist of dried meats, as it would not be practicable to +dress a sufficient quantity of fresh meat for such a large assembly; +though the women and children are excluded. + +Similar feasts used to be made at funerals, and annually, in honour of +the dead; but they have been, for some time, growing into disuse, and I +never had an opportunity of being present at any of them. + +The women, who are forbidden to enter the places sacred to these +festivals, dance and sing around them, and sometimes beat time to the +music within them; which forms an agreeable contrast. + +With respect to their divisions of time, they compute the length of +their journeys by the number of nights passed in performing them; and +they divide the year by the succession of moons. In this calculation, +however, they are not altogether correct, as they cannot account for the +odd days. + +The names which they give to the names are descriptive of the several +seasons. + + May Atheiky o Pishim Frog Moon. + June Oppinu o Pishim The Moon in which + birds begin to lay + their eggs. + July Aupascen o Pishim The Moon when + birds cast their + feathers. + August Aupahou o Pishim The Moon when + the young birds + begin to fly. + September Waskiscon o Pishim The Moon when + the moose deer + cast their horns. + October Wisac o Pishim The Rutting-Moon. + November Thithigon Pewai Hoar-Frost Moon. + o Pishim + Kuskatinsyoui Ice Moon. + o Pishim + December Pawatchicananasis Whirlwind-Moon. + o Pishim + January Kushapawasticanum Extreme cold + o Pishim Moon. + February Kichi Pishim Big Moon; some + say, Old Moon. + March Mickysue Pishim Eagle Moon. + April Niscaw o Pishim Goose Moon. + +These people know the medicinal virtues of many herbs and simples, and +apply the roots of plants and the bark of trees with success. But the +conjurers, who monopolize the medical science, find it necessary to +blend mystery with their art, and do not communicate their knowledge. +Their materia medica they administer in the form of purges and clysters, +but the remedies and surgical operations are supposed to derive much of +their effect from magic and incantation. When a blister rises in the +foot from the frost, the chafing of the shoe, etc., they immediately +open it, and apply the heated blade of a knife to the part, which, +painful as it may be, is found to be efficacious. A sharp flint serves +them as a lancet for letting blood, as well as for scarification in +bruises and swellings. For sprains, the dung of an animal just killed +is considered as the best remedy. They are very fond of European +medicines, though they are ignorant of their application: and those +articles form an inconsiderable part of the European traffic with them. + +Among their various superstitions, they believe that the vapour which is +seen to hover over moist and swampy places, is the spirit of some person +lately dead. They also fancy another spirit which appears, in the shape +of a man, upon the trees near the lodge of a person deceased, whose +property has not been interred with them. He is represented as bearing +a gun in his hand, and it is believed that he does not return to his +rest, till the property that has been withheld from the grave has been +sacrificed to it. + + +EXAMPLES OF THE KNISTENEAUX AND ALGONQUIN TONGUES. + + Knisteneaux. Algonquin. + Good Spirit Ki jai Manitou Ki jai Manitou. + Evil Spirit Matchi manitou Matchi-manitou. + Man Ethini Inini + Woman Esquois Ich-quois. + Male Nap hew Aquoisi. + Female Non-gense Non-gense. + Infant A' wash ish Abi nont-chen. + Head Us ti quoin O'chiti-goine. + Forehead Es caatick O catick. + Hair Wes ty-ky Winessis. + Eyes Es kis och Oskingick. + Nose Oskiwin O'chengewane. + Nostrils Oo tith ee go mow Ni-de-ni-guom. + Mouth O toune O tonne. + My teeth Wip pit tah Nibit. + Tongue Otaithani O-tai-na-ni. + Beard Michitoune Omichitonn. + Brain With i tip Aba-e winikan. + Ears O tow ee gie O-ta wagane. + Neck O qui ow O'quoi gan. + Throat O koot tas gy Nigon dagane. + Arms O nisk O nic. + Fingers Che chee Ni nid gines. + Nails Wos kos sia Os-kenge. + Side O's spig gy Opikegan. + My back No pis quan Ni-pi quoini. + My belly Nattay Ni my sat. + Thighs O povam Obouame. + My knees No che quoin noh Ni gui tick. + Legs Nos Ni gatte. + Heart Ok thea Othai. + My father Noo ta wie Nossai. + My mother Nigah wei Nigah. + My boy (son) Negousis Nigouisses. + My girl (daughter) Netanis Nidaniss. + My brother, elder Ni stess Nis-a-yen. + My sister, elder Ne miss Nimisain. + My grandfather Ne moo shum Ni-mi-chomiss. + My grandmother N'o kum No-co-miss. + My uncle N' o'ka miss Ni ni michomen. + My nephew Ne too sim Ne do jim. + My niece Ne too sim esquois Ni-do-jim equois + My mother-in-law Nisigouse Ni sigousiss. + My brother-in-law Nistah Nitah. + My companion Ne wechi wagan Ni-wit-chi-wagan. + My husband Ni nap pem Ni na bem. + Blood Mith coo Misquoi. + Old Man Shi nap Aki win se. + I am angry Ne kis si wash en Nis Katissiwine. + I fear Ne goos tow Nisest guse. + Joy Ne hea tha tom Mamond gikisi. + Hearing Pethom Oda wagan. + Track Mis conna Pemi ka wois. + Chief, great ruler Haukimah Kitchi onodis. + Thief Kismouthesk Ke moutiske. + Excrement Meyee Moui. + Buffalo Moustouche Pichike. + Ferret Sigous Shingouss. + Polecat Shicak Shi kak. + Elk Moustouche Michai woi. + Rein deer Attick Atick. + Fellow deer Attick Wa wasquesh. + Beaver Amisk Amic. + Wolverine Qui qua katch Quin quoagki. + Squirrel Ennequachas Otchi ta mou. + Minx Sa quasue Shaugouch. + Otter Nekick Ni guick. + Wolf Mayegan Maygan. + Hare Wapouce Wapouce. + Marten Wappistan Wabichinse. + Moose Mouswah Monse. + Bear Masqua Macqua. + Fisher Wijask Od-jisck. + Lynx Picheu Pechou. + Porcupine Cau quah Kack. + Fox Mikasew Wagouche. + Musk Rat Wajask Wa-jack. + Mouse Abicushiss Wai wa be gou noge. + Cow Buffalo Noshi Moustouche Nochena pichik. + Meat-flesh Wias Wi-ass. + Dog Atim Ani-mouse. + Eagle Makusue Me-guissis. + Duck Sy Sip Shi-sip. + Crow, Corbeau Ca Cawkeu Ka Kak. + Swan Wapiseu Wa-pe-sy. + Turkey Mee sei thew Mississay. + Pheasants Okes kew Ajack. + Bird Pethesew Pi-na-sy. + Outard Niscag Nic kack. + White Goose Wey Wois Woi wois. + Grey Goose Pestasish Pos ta kisk. + Partridge Pithew Pen ainse. + Water Hen Chiquibish Che qui bis. + Dove Omi Mee O mi-mis. + Eggs We Wah Wa Weni. + Pike or Jack Kenonge Kenonge. + Carp Na may bin Na me bine. + Sturgeon Na May Na Maiu. + White fish Aticaming Aticaming. + Pickerel Oc-chaw Oh-ga. + Fish (in general) Kenonge Ki-cons. + Spawn Waquon Wa quock. + Fins Chi chi kan O nidj-igan. + Trout Nay gouse Na Men Gouse. + Craw Fish A shag gee A cha kens chacque. + Frog Atahick O ma ka ki. + Wasp Ah moo A mon. + Turtle Mikinack Mi-ki-nack. + Snake Kinibick Ki nai bick. + Awl Oscajick Ma-gose. + Needle Saboinigan Sha-bo nigan. + Fire steel Appet Scoutecgan + Fire wood Mich-tah Missane. + Cradle Teckinigan Tickina-gan. + Dagger Ta Comagau Na-ba-ke-gou-man. + Arrow Augusk or Atouche Mettic ka nouins. + Fish Hook Quosquipichican Maneton Miquiscan. + Ax Shegaygan Wagagvette. + Ear-bob Chi-kisebisoun Na be chi be soun + Comb Sicahoun Pin ack wan. + Net Athabe Assap. + Tree Mistick Miti-coum. + Wood Mistick Mitic. + Paddle Aboi Aboui. + Canoe Chiman S-chiman. + Birch Rind Wasquoi Wig nass. + Bark Wasquoi On-na-guege. + Touch Wood Pousagan Sa-ga-tagan. + Leaf Nepeshah Ni-biche. + Grass Masquosi Masquosi. + Raspberries Misqui-meinac Misqui meinac. + Strawberries O'-tai-e minac O'-tai-e minac. + Ashes Pecouch Pengoui. + Fire Scou tay Scou tay. + Grapes Shomenac Shomenac. + Fog Pakishihow A Winni. + Mud Asus ki A Shiski. + Currant Kisijiwin Ki si chi woin. + Road Mescanah Mickanan. + Winter Pipoun Pipone. + Island Ministick Miniss. + Lake Sagayigan Sagayigan. + Sun Pisim Kijis. + Moon Tibisca pesim Dibic Kijis + (the night Sun) + Day Kigigah Kigi gatte. + Night Tabisca Dibic kawte. + Snow Counah So qui po. + Rain Kimiwoin Ki mi woini + Drift Pewan Pi-woine. + Hail Shes eagan Me qua mensan. + Ice Mesquaming Me quam. + Frost Aquatin Gas-ga-tin. + Mist Picasyow An-quo-et. + Water Nepec Nipei. + World Messeasky Missi achki. + (all the earth) + Mountain Wachee Watchive. + Sea Kitchi kitchi gaming Kitchi kitchi gaming. + Morning Kequishepe Ki-ki-jep. + Mid-day Abetah quisheik Na ock quoi. + Portage Unygam Ouni-gam. + Spring Menouscaming Mino ka ming. + River Sipee Sipi. + Rapid Bawastick Ba wetick. + Rivulet Sepeesis Sipi wes chin. + Sand Thocaw Ne gawe. + Earth Askee Ach ki. + Star Attack Anang. + Thunder Pithuseu Ni mi ki. + Wind Thoutin No tine. + Calm Athawostin A-no-a-tine. + Heat Quishipoi Aboyce. + Evening Ta kashike O'n-a-guche. + North Kywoitin Ke woitinak. + South Sawena woon Sha-wa-na-wang. + East Coshawcastak Wa-ba-no-no-tine. + West Paquisimow Panguis-chi-mo. + Tomorrow Wabank Wa-bang. + Bone Oskann Oc-kann. + Broth Michim waboi Thaboub. + Feast Ma qua see Wi con qui wine. + Grease or oil Pimis Pimi-tais. + Marrow fat Oscan pimis Oska-pimitais. + Sinew Asstis Attiss. + Lodge Wig-waum Wi-gui-wam. + Bed Ne pa win Ne pai wine. + Within Pendog ke Pendig. + Door Squandam Scouandam. + Dish Othagan O' na gann. + Fort Wasgaigan Wa-kuigan. + Sledge Tabanask Otabanac. + Cincture Poquoatehoun Ketche pisou, + Cap Astotin Pe matinang. + Socks Ashican A chi-gan. + Shirt Papackeweyan Pa pa ki weyan. + Coat Papise-co-wagan Papise-co-wa-gan + Blanket Wape weyang Wape weyan. + Cloth Maneto weguin Maneto weguin. + Thread Assabab Assabab. + Garters Chi ki-bisoon Ni gaske-tase besoun. + Mittens Astissack Medjica wine. + Shoes Maskisin Makisin. + Smoking bag Kusquepetagan Kasquepetagan. + Portage sling Apisan Apican, + Strait on Goi ask Goi-ack. + Medicine Mas ki kee Macki-ki. + Red Mes coh Mes-cowa. + Blue Kasqutch (same O-jawes-cowa. + as black) + White Wabisca Wabisca. + Yellow Saw waw O-jawa. + Green Chibatiquare O'jawes-cowa. + Brown O'jawes-cowa. + Grey, etc. O'jawes-cowa. + Ugly Mache na gouseu Mous-counu-gouse. + Handsome Catawassiseu Nam bissa. + Beautiful Kissi Sawenogan Quoi Natch. + Deaf Nima petom Ka ki be chai. + Good-natured Mithi washin Onichishin. + Pregnant: Paawie And-jioko. + Fat Outhineu Oui-ni-noe. + Big Mushikitee Messha. + Small or little Abisasheu Agu-chin. + Short Chemasish Tackosi. + Skin Wian Wian. + Long Kinwain Kiniwa. + Strong Mascawa |Mache-cawa. + |Mas-cawise. + Coward Sagatahaw Cha-goutai-ye. + Weak Nitha missew Cha-gousi. + Lean Mahta waw Ka wa ca tosa. + Brave Nima Gustaw Son qui taige. + Young man Osquineguish Oskinigui. + Cold Kissin Kissinan. + Hot Kichatai Kicha tai. + Spring Minouscaming Minokaming. + Summer Nibin Nibiqui. + Fall Tagowagonk Tagowag. + One Peyac Pecheik. + Two Nisheu Nige. + Three Nishtou Nis-wois. + Four Neway Ne-au. + Five Ni-annan Na-nan. + Six Negoutawoesic Ni gouta was-wois. + Seven Nish woisic Nigi-was-wois. + Eight Jannanew She was wois. + Nine Shack Shang was wois. + Ten Mitatat Mit-asswois. + Eleven Peyac osap Mitasswois, hachi pecheik. + Twelve Nisheu osap Mitasswois, hachi, nige. + Thirteen Nichtou osap Mitasswois, hachi, niswois. + Fourteen Neway osap Mitasswois, hachi, ne-au. + Fifteen Niannan osap Mitasswois, hachi, nanan. + Sixteen Nigoutawoesic osap Mitasswois, hachi, negoutawaswois. + Seventeen Nish woesic osap Mitasswois, hachi, nigi was-wois. + Eighteen Jannenew osap Mitasgwois, hachi, shiwasswois. + Nineteen Shack osap Mitasswois, hachi, shang as wois. + Twenty Nisheu mitenah Nigeta-nan. + Twenty-one Nishew mitenah Nigeta nan, hachi, pechic. + peyac osap + Twenty-two, etc. Nisheu mitenah + nishew osap + Thirty Nishtou mitenah Niswois mitanan. + Forty Neway mitenah Neau mitanan. + Fifty Niannan mitenah Nanan mitanen. + Sixty Negoutawoisic Nigouta was wois mitanan. + mitenah + Seventy Nishwoisic mitenah Nigi was wois mitanan. + Eighty Jannaeu mitenah She was wois mitanan. + Ninety Shack mitenah Shang was wois mitanan. + Hundred Mitana mitenan Ningoutwack. + Two hundred Neshew mitena a Nige wack. + mitenah + One thousand Mitenah mitena Kitchi-wack. + mitenah + First Nican Nitam. + Last Squayatch Shaquoiyanke. + More Minah Awa-chi min. + Better Athiwack mitha- A wachimin o + washin nichi shen. + Best Atniwack mitha- Kitchi o nichi shin. + washin + I. or me Nitha Nin. + You, or thou Kitha Kin. + They, or them Withawaw Win na wa. + We Nithawaw Nina wa. + My, or mine Nitayen Nida yam. + Your's Kitayan Kitayem. + Who Auoni. + Whom Awoine Kegoi nin. + What Wa + His, or her's Otayan Otayim mis. + All Kakithau Kakenan. + Some, or some few Pey peyac Pe-pichic. + The same Tabescoutch Mi ta yoche. + All the world Missi acki wanque Mishiwai asky. + All the men Kakithaw Ethi nyock Missi Inini wock. + More Mina Mine wa. + Now and then Nannigoutengue. + Sometimes I as-cow-puco + Seldom Wica-ac-ko. + Arrive Ta couchin Ta-gouchin. + Beat Otamaha Packit-ais. + To burn Mistascasoo Icha-quiso. + To sing Nagamoun Nagam. + To cut Kisquishan Qui qui jan. + To hide Catann Caso tawe. + To cover Acquahoun A co na oune. + To believe Taboitam Tai boitam. + To sleep Nepan Ni pann. + To dispute Ke ko mitowock Ki quaidiwine. + To dance Nemaytow Nimic. + To give Mith Mih. + To do Ogitann O-gitoune. + To eat Wissinee Wissiniwin. + To die Nepew Ni po wen. + To forget Winnekiskisew Woi ni mi kaw. + To speak Athimetakcouse Aninntagousse. + To cry (tears) Mantow Ma wi. + To laugh Papew Pa-pe + To set down Nematappe Na matape win. + To walk Pimoutais Pemoussai. + To fall Packisin Panguishin. + To work Ah tus kew Anokeh. + To kill Nipahaw Nishi-woes. + To sell Attawoin Ata wois. + To live Pimatise Pematis. + To see Wabam Wab. + To come Astamoteh Pitta-si-mouss. + Enough Egothigog Mi mi nic. + Cry (tears) Manteau Ambai ma wita. + It hails Shisiagan Sai saigaun. + There is | + There is some | Aya wa Aya wan. + It rains Quimiwoin Qui mi woin. + After to-morrow Awis wabank Awas webang. + To-day Anoutch Non gum. + Thereaway Netoi Awoite. + Much Michett Ni bi wa. + Presently Pichisqua Pitchinac. + Make, heart Quithipeh Wai we be. + This morning Shebas Shai bas. + This night Tibiscag De bi cong. + Above Espiming O kitchiai. + Below Tabassish Ana mai. + Truly Taboiy Ne de wache + Already Sashay Sha shaye. + Yet more Minah Mina wa. + Yesterday Tacoushick Pitchinago. + Far Wathow Wassa. + Near Quishiwoac Paishou. + Never Nima wecatch Ka wi ka. + No Nima Ke wine. + Yes Ah In. + By-and-bye Pa-nima Pa-nima. + Always Ka-ki-kee Ka qui nick + Make haste Quethepeh Niguim. + It's long since Mewaisha Mon wisha. + + +[1] The similarity between their language and that of the Algonquins is +an unequivocal proof that they are the same people. Specimens of their +respective tongues will be hereafter given. + +[2] They have been called thieves, but when that vice can with justice +be attributed to them, it may be traced to their connexion with the +civilized people who come into their country to traffic. + +[3] It is, however, to be lamented, that of late there is a relaxation +of the duties originally attached to these festivals. + + + + +SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CHEPEWYAN INDIANS. + + +They are a numerous people, who consider the country between the +parallels of latitude 60. and 65. North, and longitude 100. to +110. West, as their lands or home. They speak a copious language, which +is very difficult to be attained, and furnishes dialects to the various +emigrant tribes which inhabit the following immense track of country, +whose boundary I shall describe.[1] It begins at Churchill, and runs +along the line of separation between them and the Knisteneaux, up the +Missinipi to the Isle a la Crosse, passing on through the Buffalo Lake, +River Lake, and Portage la Loche: from thence it proceeds by the Elk +River to the Lake of the Hills, and goes directly West to the Peace +River; and up that river to its source and tributary waters; from whence +it proceeds to the waters of the river Columbia; and follows that river +to latitude 52. 24. North, and longitude 122. 54. West, where the +Chepewyans have the Atnah or Chin Nation for their neighbours. It then +takes a line due West to the seacoast, within which, the country is +possessed by a people who speak their language[2] and are consequently +descended from them: there can be no doubt, therefore, of their progress +being to the Eastward. A tribe of them is even known at the upper +establishments on the Saskatchiwine; and I do not pretend to ascertain +how far they may follow the Rocky Mountains to the East. + +It is not possible to form any just estimate of their numbers, but it is +apparent, nevertheless, that they are by no means proportionate to the +vast extent of their territories, which may, in some degree, be +attributed to the ravages of the small-pox, which are, more or less, +evident throughout this part of the continent. + +The notion which these people entertain of the creation, is of a very +singular nature. They believe that, at the first, the globe was one +vast and entire ocean, inhabited by no living creature, except a mighty +bird, whose eyes were fire, whose glances were lightning, and the +clapping of whose wings were thunder. On his descent to the ocean, and +touching it, the earth instantly arose, and remained on the surface of +the waters. This omnipotent bird then called forth all the variety of +animals from the earth, except the Chepewyans, who were produced from a +dog; and this circumstance occasions their aversion to the flesh of that +animal, as well as the people who eat it. This extraordinary tradition +proceeds to relate, that the great bird, having finished his work, made +an arrow, which was to be preserved with great care, and to remain +untouched; but that the Chepewyans were so devoid of understanding, as +to carry it away; and the sacrilege so enraged the great bird, that he +has never since appeared. + +They have also a tradition amongst them, that they originally came from +another country, inhabited by very wicked people, and had traversed a +great lake, which was narrow, shallow, and full of islands, where they +had suffered great misery, it being always winter, with ice and deep +snow. At the Copper-Mine River, where they made the first land, the +ground was covered with copper, over which a body of earth had since +been collected, to the depth of a man's height. They believe, also, +that in ancient times their ancestors lived till their feet were worn +out with walking, and their throats with eating. They describe a +deluge, when the waters spread over the whole earth, except the highest +mountains, on the tops of which they preserved themselves. + +They believe, that immediately after their death, they pass into another +world, where they arrive at a large river, on which they embark in a +stone canoe, and that a gentle current bears them on to an extensive +lake, in the centre of which is a most beautiful island; and that, in +the view of this delightful abode, they receive that judgment for their +conduct during life, which terminates their final state and unalterable +allotment. If their good actions are declared to predominate, they are +landed upon the island, where there is to be no end to-their happiness; +which, however, according to their notions, consists in an eternal +enjoyment of sensual pleasure, and carnal gratification. But if their +bad actions weigh down the balance, the stone canoe sinks at once, and +leaves them up to their chins in the water, to behold and regret the +reward enjoyed by the good, and eternally struggling, but with +unavailing endeavours, to reach the blissful island, from which they are +excluded for ever. + +They have some faint notions of the transmigration of the soul; so that +if a child be born with teeth, they instantly imagine, from its +premature appearance, that it bears a resemblance to some person who had +lived to an advanced period, and that he has assumed a renovated life, +with these extraordinary tokens of maturity. + +The Chepewyans are sober, timorous, and vagrant, with a selfish +disposition that has sometimes created suspicions of their integrity. +Their stature has nothing remarkable in it; but though they are seldom +corpulent, they are sometimes robust. Their complexion is swarthy; +their features coarse, and their hair lank, but always of a dingy black; +nor have they universally the piercing eye, which generally animates the +Indian countenance. The women have a more agreeable aspect than the +men, but their gait is awkward, which proceeds from their being +accustomed, nine months in the year, to travel on snow-shoes and drag +sledges of a weight from two to four hundred pounds. They are very +submissive to their husbands, who have, however, their fits of jealousy; +and, for very trifling causes, treat them with such cruelty as sometimes +to occasion their death. They are frequently objects of traffic; and +the father possesses the right of disposing of his daughter.[3] The men +in general extract their beards, though some of them are seen to prefer +a bushy black beard, to a smooth chin. They cut their hair in various +forms, or leave it in a long, natural flow, according as their caprice +or fancy suggests. The women always wear it in great length, and some +of them are very attentive to its arrangement. If they at any time +appear despoiled of their tresses, it is to be esteemed a proof of the +husband's jealousy, and is considered as a severer punishment than +manual correction. Both sexes have blue or black bars, or from one to +four straight lines on their cheeks or forehead, to distinguish the +tribe to which they belong. These marks are either tattooed, or made by +drawing a thread, dipped in the necessary colour, beneath the skin. + +There are no people more attentive to the comforts of their dress, or +less anxious respecting its exterior appearance. In the winter it is +composed of the skins of deer, and their fawns, and dressed as fine as +any chamois leather, in the hair. In the summer their apparel is the +same, except that it is prepared without the hair. Their shoes and +leggins are sewed together, the latter reaching upwards to the middle, +and being supported by a belt, under which a small piece of leather is +drawn to cover the private parts, the ends of which fall down both +before and behind. In the shoes they put the hair of the moose or +reindeer with additional pieces of leather as socks. The shirt or coat, +when girted round the waist, reaches to the middle of the thigh, and the +mittens are sewed to the sleeves, or are suspended by strings from the +shoulders. A ruff or tippet surrounds the neck, and the skin of the +head of the deer forms a curious kind of cap. A robe, made of several +deer or fawn skins sewed together, covers the whole. This dress is worn +single or double, but always in the winter, with the hair within and +without. Thus arrayed a Chepewyan will lay himself down on the ice in +the middle of a lake, and repose in comfort; though he will sometimes +find a difficulty in the morning to disencumber himself from the snow +drifted on him during the night. If in his passage he should be in want +of provision, he cuts a hole in the ice, when he seldom fails of taking +some trout or pike, whose eyes he instantly scoops out, and eats as a +great delicacy; but if they should not be sufficient to satisfy his +appetite, he will, in this necessity make his meal of the fish in its +raw state; but, those whom I saw, preferred to dress their victuals when +circumstances admitted the necessary preparation. When they are in that +part of their country which does not produce a sufficient quantity of +wood for fuel, they are reduced to the same exigency, though they +generally dry their meat in the sun.[4] + +The dress of the women differs from that of the men. Their leggins are +tied below the knee; and their coat or shift is wide, hanging down to +the ankle, and is tucked up at pleasure by means of a belt, which is +fastened round the waist. Those who have children have these garments +made very full about the shoulders, as when they are travelling they +carry their infants upon their backs, next their skin, in which +situation they are perfectly comfortable and in a position convenient to +be suckled. Nor do they discontinue to give their milk to them till +they have another child. Childbirth is not the object of that tender +care and serious attention among the savages as it is among civilized +people. At this period no part of their usual occupation is omitted, +and this continual and regular exercise must contribute to the welfare +of the mother, both in the progress of parturition and in the moment of +delivery. The women have a singular custom of cutting off a small piece +of the navel string of the new-born children, and hang it about their +necks: they are also curious in the covering they make for it, which +they decorate with porcupine's quills and beads. + +Though the women are as much in the power of the men, as other articles +of their property, they are always consulted, and possess a very +considerable influence in the traffic with Europeans, and other +important concerns. + +Plurality of wives is common among them, and the ceremony of marriage is +of a very simple nature. The girls are betrothed at a very early period +to those whom the parents think the best able to support them: nor is +the inclination of the women considered. Whenever a separation takes +place, which sometimes happens, it depends entirely on the will and +pleasure of the husband. In common with the other Indians of this +country, they have a custom respecting the periodical state of a woman, +which is rigorously observed: at that time she must seclude herself from +society. They are not even allowed in that situation to keep the same +path as the men, when travelling: and it is considered a great breach of +decency for a woman so circumstanced to touch any utensils of manly +occupation. Such a circumstance is supposed to defile them, so that +their subsequent use would be followed by certain mischief or +misfortune. There are particular skins which the women never touch, as +of the bear and wolf; and those animals the men are seldom known to +kill. + +They are not remarkable for their activity as hunters, which is owing to +the ease with which they snare deer and spear fish: and these +occupations are not beyond the strength of their old men, women, and +boys: so that they participate in those laborious occupations, which +among their neighbours are confined to the women. They make war on the +Esquimaux, who cannot resist their superior numbers, and put them to +death, as it is a principle with them never to make prisoners. At the +same time they tamely submit to the Knisteneaux, who are not so numerous +as themselves, when they treat them as enemies. + +They do not affect that cold reserve at meeting, either among themselves +or strangers, which is common with the Knisteneaux, but communicate +mutually, and at once, all the information of which they are possessed. +Nor are they roused like them from an apparent torpor to a state of +great activity. They are consequently more uniform in this respect, +though they are of a very persevering disposition when their interest is +concerned. + +As these people are not addicted to spirituous liquors, they have a +regular and uninterrupted use of their understanding, which is always +directed to the advancement of their own interest; and this disposition, +as may be readily imagined, sometimes occasions them to be charged with +fraudulent habits. They will submit with patience to the severest +treatment, when they are conscious that they deserve it, but will never +forget or forgive any wanton or unnecessary rigour. A moderate conduct +I never found to fail, nor do I hesitate to represent them, altogether, +as the most peaceable tribe of Indians known in North America. + +There are conjurers and high-priests, but I was not present at any of +their ceremonies; though they certainly operate in an extraordinary +manner on the imaginations of the people in the cure of disorders. +Their principal maladies are, rheumatic pains, the flux and consumption. +The venereal complaint is very common; but though its progress is slow, +it gradually undermines the constitution, and brings on premature decay. +They have recourse to superstition for their cure, and charms are their +only remedies, except the bark of the willow, which being burned and +reduced to powder, is strewed upon green wounds and ulcers, and places +contrived for promoting perspiration. Of the use of simples and plants +they have no knowledge; nor can it be expected, as their country does +not produce them. + +Though they have enjoyed so long an intercourse with Europeans, their +country is so barren, as not to be capable of producing the ordinary +necessaries naturally introduced by such a communication and they +continue, in a great measure, their own inconvenient and awkward modes +of taking their game and preparing it when taken. Sometimes they drive +the deer into the small lakes, where they spear them, or force them into +inclosures, where the bow and arrow are employed against them. These +animals are also taken in snares made of skin. In the former instance +the game is divided among those who have been engaged in the pursuit of +it. In the latter it is considered as private property; nevertheless, +any unsuccessful hunter passing by, may take a deer so caught, leaving +the head, skin, and saddle for the owner. Thus, though they have no +regular government, as every man is lord in his own family, they are +influenced, more or less, by certain principles which condone to their +general benefit. + +In their quarrels with each other, they very rarely proceed to a greater +degree of violence than is occasioned by blows, wrestling, and pulling +of the hair, while their abusive language consists in applying the name +of the most offensive animal to the object of their displeasure, and +adding the term ugly, and chiay, or still-born.[5] + +Their arms and domestic apparatus, in addition to the articles procured +from Europeans, are spears, bows, and arrows, fishing nets, and lines +made of green deer-skin thongs. They have also nets for taking the +beaver as he endeavours to escape from his lodge when it is broken open. +It is set in a particular manner for the purpose, and a man is employed +to watch the moment when he enters the snare, or he would soon cut his +way through it. He is then thrown upon the ice where he remains as if +he had no life in him. + +The snow-shoes are of a very superior workmanship. The inner part of +their frame is straight, the outer one is curved, and it is pointed at +both ends, with that in front turned up. They are also laced with great +neatness with thongs made of deer-skin. The sledges are formed of thin +slips of board turned up also in front, and are highly polished with +crooked knives, in order to slide along with facility. Close-grained +wood is, on that account, the best; but theirs are made of the red or +swamp spruce-fir tree. + +The country, which these people claim as their land, has a very small +quantity of earth, and produces little or no wood or herbage. Its chief +vegetable substance is the moss, on which the deer feed; and a kind of +rock moss, which, in times of scarcity, preserves the lives of the +natives. When boiled in water, it dissolves into a clammy, glutinous +substance, that affords a very sufficient nourishment. But, +notwithstanding the barren state of their country, with proper care and +economy, these people might live in great comfort, for the lakes abound +in fish, and the hills are covered with deer. Though, of all the Indian +people of this continent they are considered as the most provident, they +suffer severely at certain seasons, and particularly in the dead of +winter, when they are under the necessity of retiring to their scanty, +stinted woods. To the Westward of them the musk-ox may be found, but +they have no dependence on it as an article of sustenance. There are +also large hares, a few white wolves, peculiar to their country, and +several kinds of foxes, with white and grey partridges, etc. The beaver +and moose-deer they do not find till they come within 60 degrees North +latitude; and the buffalo is still further South. That animal is known +to frequent an higher latitude to the Westward of their country. These +people bring pieces of beautiful variegated marble, which are found on +the surface of the earth. It is easily worked, bears a fine polish, and +hardens with time; it endures heat, and is manufactured into pipes or +calumets, as they are very fond of smoking tobacco; a luxury which the +Europeans communicated to them. + +Their amusements or recreations are but few. Their music is so +inharmonious, and their dancing so awkward, that they might be supposed +to be ashamed of both, as they very seldom practise either. They also +shoot at marks, and play at the games common among them; but in fact +they prefer sleeping to either; and the greater part of their time is +passed in procuring food, and resting from the toil necessary to obtain +it. They are also of a querulous disposition, and are continually +making complaints; which they express by a constant repetition of the +word eduiy, "it is hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of voice. + +They are superstitious in the extreme, and almost every action of their +lives, however trivial, is more or less influenced by some whimsical +notion. I never observed that they had any particular form of religious +worship; but as they believe in a good and evil spirit, and a state of +future rewards and punishments, they cannot be devoid of religious +impressions. At the same time they manifest a decided unwillingness to +make any communications on the subject. + +The Chepewyans have been accused of abandoning their aged and infirm +people to perish, and of not burying their dead; but these are +melancholy necessities, which proceed from their wandering way of life. +They are by no means universal, for it is within my knowledge, that a +man, rendered helpless by the palsy, was carried about for many years, +with the greatest tenderness and attention, till he died a natural +death. That they should not bury their dead in their own country, +cannot be imputed to them as a custom arising from a savage +insensibility, as they inhabit such high latitudes that the ground never +thaws; but it is well known, that when they are in the woods, they cover +their dead with trees. Besides, they manifest no common respect to the +memory of their departed friends, by a long period of mourning, cutting +off their hair, and never making use of the property of the deceased. +Nay, they frequently destroy or sacrifice their own, as a token of +regret and sorrow. + +If there be any people who, from the barren state of their country, +might be supposed to be cannibals by nature, these people, from the +difficulty they, at times, experience in procuring food, might be liable +to that imputation. But, in all my knowledge of them, I never was +acquainted with one instance of that disposition; nor among all the +natives which I met with in a route of five thousand miles, did I see or +hear of an example of cannibalism, but such as arose from that +irresistible necessity, which has been known to impel even the most +civilized people to eat each other. + + +EXAMPLES OF THE CHEPEWYAN TONGUE + + Man Dinnie. + Woman Chequois. + Young man Quelaquis. + Young woman Quelaquis chequoi. + My son Zi azay. + My daughter Zi lengai. + My husband Zi dinnie. + My wife Zi zayunai. + My brother Zi raing. + My father Zi tah. + My mother Zi nah. + My grandfather Zi unai. + Me, or my See. + I Ne. + You Nun. + They Be. + Head Edthie. + Hand Law. + Leg Edthen. + Foot Cuh. + Eyes Nackhay. + Teeth Goo. + Side Kac-hey. + Belly Bitt. + Tongue Edthu. + Hair Thiegah. + Back Losseh. + Blood Dell. + The Knee Cha-gutt. + Clothes or Blanket Etlunay. + Coat Eeh. + Leggin Thell. + Shoes Kinchee. + Robe or Blanket Thuth. + Sleeves Bah. + Mittens Geese. + Cap Sah. + Swan Kagouce. + Duck Keth. + Goose Gah. + White partridge Cass bah. + Grey partridge Deyee. + Buffalo Giddy. + Moose deer Dinyai. + Rein deer Edthun. + Beaver Zah. + Bear Zass. + Otter Gaby-ai. + Martin Thah. + Wolverine Naguiyai. + Wolf Yess (Nouhoay). + Fox Naguethey. + Hare Cah. + Dog Sliengh. + Beaver-skin Zah thah. + Otter skin Naby-ai thith. + Moose-skin Deny-ai thith. + Fat Icah. + Grease Thless. + Meet Bid. + Pike Uldiah. + White-fish Slouey. + Trout Slouey zinai. + Pickerel G'Gah. + Fish-hook Ge-eth. + Fish-line Clulez. + One Slachy. + Two Naghur. + Three Tagh-y. + Four Dengk-y. + Five Sasoulachee. + Six Alki tar-hy-y. + Seven + Eight Alki deing-hy. + Nine Cakina hanoth-na. + Ten Ca noth na. + Twenty Na ghur cha noth na. + Fire Coun. + Water Toue. + Wood Dethkin. + Ice Thun. + Snow Yath. + Rain Thinnelsee. + Lake Touey. + River Tesse. + Mountain Zeth. + Stone Thaih. + Berries Gui-eh. + Hot Edowh. + Cold Edzah. + Island Nouey. + Gun Telkithy, + Powder Telkithy counna. + Knife Bess. + Axe Thynle. + Sun + Moon Sah. + Red Deli couse. + Black Dell zin. + Trade, or barter Na-houn-ny. + Good Leyzong. + Not good Leyzong houlley. + Stinking Geddey. + Bad, ugly Slieney. + Long since Galladinna. + Now, today Ganneh. + Tomorrow Gambeh. + By-and-bye, or presently Garehoulleh. + House, or lodge Cooen. + Canoe Shaluzee. + Door The o ball. + Leather-lodge N'abalay. + Chief Buchahudry. + Mine Zidzy. + His Bedzy. + Yours Nuntzy. + Large Unshaw. + Small, or little Chautah, + I love you Ba eioinichdinh. + I hate you Bucnoinichadinh hillay. + I am to be pitied Est-chounest-hinay. + My relation Sy lod, innay. + Give me water Too hanniltu. + Give me meat Beds-hanniltu. + Give me fish Sloeeh anneltu. + Give me meat to eat Bid Barheether. + Give me water to drink To Barhithen. + It is far off Netha uzany, + Is it not far Nilduay uzany. + It is near Nitha-hillai. + How many Nilduay. + What call you him, or that Etlaneldey. + Come here Etla houllia + Pain, or suffering Yeu dessay. + It's hard I-yah. + You lie Untzee. + What then Eldaw-gueh. + + +[1] Those of them who come to trade with us, do not exceed eight hundred +men, and have a smattering of the Knisteneau tongue, in which they carry +on their dealings with us. + +[2] The coast is inhabited on the North-West by the Eskimaux, and on the +Pacific Ocean by a people different from both. + +[3] They do not, however, sell them as slaves, but as companions to +those who are supposed to live more comfortably than themselves. + +[4] The provision called pemmican, on which the Chepewyans, as well as +the other savages of this country, chiefly subsist in their journeys, is +prepared in the following manner: The lean parts of the flesh of the +larger animals are cut in thin slices, and are placed on a wooden grate +over a slow fire, or exposed to the sun, and sometimes to the frost. +These operations dry it, and in that state it is pounded between two +stones; it will then keep with care for several years. If, however, it +is kept in large quantities, it is disposed to ferment in the spring of +the year, when it must be exposed to the air, or it will soon decay. +The inside fat, and that of the rump, which is much thicker in these +wild than our domestic animals, is melted down and mixed, in a boiling +state with the pounded meat, in equal proportions: it is then put in +baskets or bags for the convenience of carrying it. Thus it becomes a +nutritious food, and is eaten, without any further preparation, or the +addition of spice, salt, or any vegetable or farinaceous substance. A +little time reconciles it to the palate. There is another sort made +with the addition of marrow and dried berries, which is of a superior +quality. + +[5] This name is also applicable to the foetus of an animal, when +killed, which is considered as one of the greatest delicacies. + + + + +JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, &c. + + +CHAPTER I. + + +JUNE, 1789. + +_Wednesday, 3._--We embarked at nine in the morning, at +Fort Chepewyan, on the South side of the Lake of the Hills, in latitude +58. 40. North, and longitude 110. 30. West from Greenwich, and compass +has sixteen degrees variation East, in a canoe made of birch bark. The +crew consisted of four Canadians, two of whom were attended by their +wives, and a German; we were accompanied also by an Indian, who had +acquired the title of English Chief, and his two wives, in a small +canoe, with two young Indians; his followers in another small canoe. +These men were engaged to serve us in the twofold capacity of +interpreters and hunters. This chief has been a principal leader of his +countrymen who were in the habit of carrying furs to Churchill Factory, +Hudson's Bay, and till of late very much attached to the interest of +that company. These circumstances procured him the appellation of the +English Chief. + +We were also accompanied by a canoe that I had equipped for the purpose +of trade, and given the charge of it to M. Le Roux, one of the Company's +clerks. In this I was obliged to ship part of our provision; which, +with the clothing necessary for us on the voyage, a proper assortment of +the articles of merchandise as presents, to ensure us a friendly +reception among the Indians, and the ammunition and arms requisite for +defence, as well as a supply for our hunters, were more than our own +canoe could carry, but by the time we should part company, there was +every reason to suppose that our expenditure would make sufficient room +for the whole. + +We proceeded twenty-one miles to the West, and then took a course of +nine miles to North-North-West, when we entered the river, or one of the +branches of the lake, of which there are several. We then steered North +five miles, when our course changed for two miles to North-North-East, +and here at seven in the evening we landed and pitched our tents. One +of the hunters killed a goose, and a couple of ducks: at the same time +the canoe was taken out of the water, to be gummed, which necessary +business was effectually performed. + + +_Thursday, 4._--We embarked at four this morning, and proceeded +North-North-East half a mile, North one mile and a half, West two miles, +North-West two miles, West-North-West one mile and a half, +North-North-West half a mile, and West-North-West two miles, when this +branch loses itself in the Peace River. It is remarkable, that the +currents of these various branches of the lake, when the Peace River is +high, as in May and August, run into the lake, which, in the other +months of the year returns its waters to them; whence, to this place, +the branch is not more than two hundred yards wide, nor less than an +hundred and twenty. The banks are rather low, except in one place, +where an huge rock rises above them, The low land is covered with wood, +such as white birch, pines of different kinds, with the poplar, three +kinds of willow, and the liard. + +The Peace River is upwards of a mile broad at this spot, and its current +is stronger than that of the channel which communicates with the lake. +It here, indeed, assumes the name of the Slave River.[1] The course of +this day was as follows:--North-West two miles, North-North-West, +through islands, six miles, North four miles and a half, North by East +two miles, West by North six miles, North one mile, North-East by East +two miles, North one mile. We now descended a rapid, and proceeded +North-West seven miles and a half, North-West nine miles, North by West +six miles, North-West by West one mile and a half, North-West by North +half a mile, North-North-West six miles, North one mile, North-West by +West four miles, North-North-East one mile. Here we arrived at the +mouth of the Dog River, where we landed, and unloaded our canoes, at +half past seven in the evening, on the East side, and close by the +rapids. At this station the river is near two leagues in breadth. + + +_Friday, 5._--At three o'clock in the morning we embarked, but +unloaded our canoes at the first rapid. When we had reloaded, we +entered a small channel, which is formed by the islands, and, in about +half an hour, we came to the carrying-place It is three hundred and +eighty paces in length, and very commodious, except at the further end +of it. We found some difficulty in reloading at this spot, from the +large quantity of ice which had not yet thawed. From hence to the next +carrying-place, called the _Portage d'Embarras_, is about six miles, and +is occasioned by the drift wood filling up the small channel, which is +one thousand and twenty paces in length; from hence to the next is one +mile and a half, while the distance to that which succeeds, does not +exceed one hundred and fifty yards. It is about the same length as the +last; and from hence to the carrying-place called the Mountain, is about +four miles further; when we entered the great river. The smaller one, +or the channel, affords by far the best passage, as it is without hazard +of any kind; though I believe a shorter course would be found on the +outside of the islands, and without so many carrying-places. That +called the Mountain is three hundred and thirty-five paces in length; +from thence to the next, named the Pelican, there is about a mile of +dangerous rapids. The landing is very steep, and close to the fall. +The length of this carrying-place is eight hundred and twenty paces. + +The whole of the party were now employed in taking the baggage and the +canoe up the hill. One of the Indian canoes went down the fall, and was +dashed to pieces. The woman who had the management of it, by quitting +it in time, preserved her life, though she lost the little property it +contained. + +The course from the place we quitted in the morning is about North-West, +and comprehends a distance of fifteen miles. From hence to the next and +last carrying-place, is about nine miles; in which distance there are +three rapids: course North-West by West. The carrying path is very bad, +and five hundred and thirty-five paces in length. Our canoes being +lightened, passed on the outside of the opposite island, which rendered +the carrying of the baggage very short indeed, being not more than the +length of a canoe. In the year 1786, five men were drowned, and two +canoes and some packages lost, in the rapids on the other side of the +river, which occasioned this place to be called the _Portage des Noyes_. +They were proceeding to the Slave Lake, in the fall of that year, under +the direction of Mr. Cuthbert Grant. We proceeded from hence six miles, +and encamped on Point de Roche, at half past five in the afternoon. The +men and Indians were very much fatigued; but the hunters had provided +seven geese, a beaver, and four ducks. + + +_Saturday, 6._--We embarked at half past two in the morning, and +steered North-West by North twenty-one miles, North-West by West five +miles, West-North-West four miles, West six miles, doubled a point +North-North-East one mile, East five miles, North two miles, North-West +by North one mile and a half, West-North-West three miles, North-East by +East two miles; doubled a point one mile and a half, West by North nine +miles, North-West by West six miles, North-North-West five miles; here +we landed at six o'clock in the evening, unloaded, and encamped. Nets +were also set in a small adjacent river. We had an head wind during the +greater part of the day and the weather was become so cold that the +Indians were obliged to make use of their mittens. In this day's +progress we killed seven geese and six ducks. + + +_Sunday, 7._--At half past three we renewed our voyage, and proceeded +West-North-West one mile, round an island one mile, North-West two miles +and a half, South by West three miles, West-South-West one mile, +South-West by South half a mile, North-West three miles, West-North-West +three miles and a half, North seven miles and a half, North-West by +North four miles, North two miles and a half, North-West by North two +miles. The rain, which had prevailed for some time, now came on with +such violence, that we were obliged to land and unload, to prevent the +goods and baggage from getting wet; the weather, however, soon cleared +up, so that we reloaded the canoe, and got under way. We now continued +our course North ten miles, West one mile and a half, and North one mile +and a half, when the rain came on again, and rendered it absolutely +necessary for us to get on shore for the night, at about half past +three. We had a strong North-North-East wind throughout the day, which +greatly impeded us; M. Le Roux, however, with his party, passed on in +search of a landing place more agreeable to them. The Indians killed a +couple of geese, and as many ducks. The rain continued through the +remaining part of the day. + + +_Monday, 8._--The night was very boisterous, and the rain did not +cease till two in the afternoon of this day; but as the wind did not +abate of its violence, we were prevented from proceeding till the +morrow. + + +_Tuesday, 9._--We embarked at half past two in the morning, the +weather being calm and foggy. Soon after our two young men joined us, +whom we had not seen for two days; but during their absence they had +killed four beavers and ten geese. After a course of one mile +North-West by North, we observed an opening on the right, which we took +for a fork of the river, but it proved to be a lake. We returned and +steered South-West by West one mile and a half, West-South-West one mile +and a half, West one mile, when we entered a very small branch of the +river on the East bank; at the mouth of which I was informed there had +been a carrying-place, owing to the quantity of drift wood, which then +filled up the passage, but has since been carried away. The course of +this river is meandering, and tends to the North, and in about ten miles +falls into the Slave Lake, where we arrived at nine in the morning, when +we found a great change in the weather, as it was become extremely cold. +The lake was entirely covered with ice, and did not seem in any degree +to have given way, but near the shore. The gnats and mosquitoes, which +were very troublesome during our passage along the river, did not +venture to accompany us to this colder region. + +The banks of the river both above and below the rapids, were on both +sides covered with the various kinds of wood common to this country, +particularly the Western side; the land being lower and consisting of a +rich black soil. This artificial ground is carried down by the stream, +and rests upon drift wood, so as to be eight or ten feet deep. The +eastern banks are more elevated, and the soil a yellow clay mixed with +gravel; so that the trees are neither so large or numerous as on the +opposite shore. The ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in +depth; notwithstanding the leaf was at its full growth; while along the +lake there was scarcely any appearance of verdure. + +The Indians informed me, that, at a very small distance from either bank +of the river, are very extensive plains, frequented by large herds of +buffaloes; while the moose and rein-deer keep in the woods that border +on it. The beavers, which are in great numbers, build their habitations +in the small lakes and rivers, as, in the larger streams, the ice +carries every thing along with it, during the spring. The mud-banks in +the river are covered with wild fowl; and we this morning killed two +swans, ten geese, and one beaver, without suffering the delay of an +hour; so that we might have soon filled the canoe with them, if that had +been our object. + +From the small river we steered East, along the inside of a long +sand-bank, covered with drift wood and enlivened by a few willows, which +stretches on as far as the houses erected by Messrs. Grant and Le Roux, +in 1786. We often ran aground, as for five successive miles the depth +of the water nowhere exceeded three feet. There we found our people, +who had arrived early in the morning, and whom we had not seen since the +preceding Sunday. We now unloaded the canoe, and pitched our tents, as +there was every appearance that we should be obliged to remain here for +some time. I then ordered the nets to be set, as it was absolutely +necessary that the stores provided for our future voyage should remain +untouched. The fish we now caught were carp, poisson inconnu, white +fish, and trout. + + +_Wednesday, 10._--It rained during the greatest part of the preceding +night, and the weather did not clear up till the afternoon of this day. +This circumstance had very much weakened the ice, and I sent two of the +Indians on an hunting party to a lake at the distance of nine miles, +which, they informed me, was frequented by animals of various kinds. +Our fishery this day was not so abundant as it had been on the preceding +afternoon. + + +_Thursday, 11._--The weather was fine and clear with a strong westerly +wind. The women were employed in gathering berries of different sorts, +of which there are a great plenty; and I accompanied one of my people to +a small adjacent island, where we picked up some dozens of swan, geese, +and duck-eggs; we also killed a couple of ducks and a goose. + +In the evening the Indians returned, without having seen any of the +larger animals. A swan and a grey crane were the only fruits of their +expedition. We caught no other fish but a small quantity of pike, which +is too common to be a favourite food with the people of the country, The +ice moved a little to the eastward. + + +_Friday, 12._--The weather continued the same as yesterday, and the +mosquitoes began to visit us in great numbers. The ice moved again in +the same direction, and I ascended an hill, but could not perceive that +it was broken in the middle of the lake. The hunters killed a goose and +three ducks. + + +_Saturday, 13._--The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable +till about sunset, when it settled in the North. It drove back the ice +which was now very much broken along the shore, and covered our nets. +One of the hunters who had been at the Slave River the preceding +evening, returned with three beavers and fourteen geese. He was +accompanied by three families of Indians, who left Athabasca the same +day as myself: they did not bring me any fowl; and they pleaded in +excuse, that they had travelled with so much expedition, as to prevent +them from procuring sufficient provisions for themselves. By a meridian +line, I found the variation of the compass to be about twenty degrees +East. + + +_Sunday, 14._--The weather was clear and the wind remained in the same +quarter. The ice was much broken, and driven to the side of the lake, +so that we were apprehensive for the loss of our nets, as they could +not, at present, be extricated. At sunset there was an appearance of a +violent gust of wind from the southward, as the sky became on a sudden, +in that quarter, of a very dusky blue colour, and the lightning was very +frequent. But instead of wind there came on a very heavy rain, which +promised to diminish the quantity of broken ice. + + +_Monday, 15._--In the morning, the bay still continued to be so full +of ice, that we could not get at our nets. About noon, the wind veered +to the Westward, and not only uncovered the nets, but cleared a passage +to the opposite islands. When we raised the nets we found them very +much shattered, and but few fish taken. We now struck our tents, and +embarked at sunset, when we made the traverse, which was about eight +miles North-East by North, in about two hours. At half-past eleven +P. M. we landed on a small island and proceeded to gum the canoe. At +this time the atmosphere was sufficiently clear to admit of reading or +writing without the aid of artificial light. We had not seen a star +since the second day after we left Athabasca. About twelve o'clock, the +moon made its appearance above the tops of the trees, the lower horn +being in a state of eclipse, which continued for about six minutes, in a +cloudless sky. + +I took soundings three times in the course of the traverse, when I found +six fathoms water, with a muddy bottom. + + +_Tuesday, 16._--We were prevented from embarking this morning by +a very strong wind from the North, and the vast quantity of floating +ice. Some trout were caught with the hook and line, but the net was not +so successful. I had an observation which gave 61. 28. North latitude. + +The wind becoming moderate, we embarked about one, taking a North-West +course, through islands of ten miles, in which we took in a considerable +quantity of water. After making several traverses, we landed at five +P. M., and having pitched our tents, the hooks, lines, and nets were +immediately set. During the course of the day there was occasional +thunder. + + +_Wednesday, 17._--We proceeded, and taking up our nets as we passed, +we found no more than seventeen fish, and were stopped within a mile by +the ice. The Indians, however, brought us back to a point where our +fishery was very successful. They proceeded also on a hunting party, as +well as to discover a passage among the islands; but at three in the +afternoon they returned without having succeeded in either object. We +were, however, in expectation, that, as the wind blew very strong, it +would force a passage. About sunset, the weather became overcast, with +thunder, lightning, and rain. + + +_Thursday, 18._--The nets were taken up at four this morning with +abundance of fish, and we steered North-West four miles, where the ice +again prevented our progress. A South-East wind drove it among the +islands, in such a manner as to impede our passage, and we could +perceive at some distance ahead, that it was but little broken. We now +set our nets in four fathom water. Two of our hunters had killed a +rein-deer and its fawn. They had met with two Indian families, and in +the evening, a man belonging to one of them, paid us a visit; he +informed me, that the ice had not, stirred on the side of the island +opposite to us. These people live entirely on fish, and were waiting to +cross the lake as soon as it should be clear of ice. + + +_Friday, 19._--This morning our nets were unproductive, as they +yielded us no more than six fish, which were of a very bad kind. In the +forenoon, the Indians proceeded to the large island opposite to us, in +search of game. The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable; at the +same time, we were pestered by mosquitoes, though, in a great measure, +surrounded with ice. + + +_Saturday, 20._--We took up our nets, but without any fish. It rained +very hard during the night and this morning: nevertheless, M. Le Roux +and his people went back to the point which we had quitted on the 18th, +but I did not think it prudent to move. As I was watching for a passage +through the ice, I promised to send for them when I could obtain it. It +rained at intervals till about five o'clock; when we loaded our canoe, +and steered for the large island, West six miles. When we came to the +point of it, we found a great quantity of ice; we, however, set our +nets, and soon caught plenty of fish. In our way thither we met our +hunters, but they had taken nothing. I took soundings at an hundred +yards from the island, when we were in twenty-one fathom water. Here we +found abundance of cranberries and small spring onions. I now +despatched two men for M. Le Roux, and his people. + + +_Sunday, 21._--A Southerly wind blew through the night, and drove the +ice to the Northward. The two men whom I had sent to M. Le Roux, +returned at eight this morning; they parted with him at a small distance +from us, but the wind blew so hard, that he was obliged to put to shore. +Having a glimpse of the sun, when it was twelve by my watch, I found the +latitude 61. 34. North latitude. At two in the afternoon, M. Le Roux and +his people arrived. At five, the ice being almost all driven past to +the Northward, we accordingly embarked, and steered West fifteen miles, +through much broken ice, and on the outside of the islands, though it +appeared to be very solid to the North-East. I sounded three times in +this distance, and found it seventy-five, forty-four, and sixty fathom +water. We pitched our tents on one of a cluster of small islands that +were within three miles of the main land, which we could not reach in +consequence of the ice. + +We saw some rein-deer on one of these islands, and our hunters went in +pursuit of them, when they killed five large and two small ones, which +was easily accomplished, as the animals had no shelter to which they +could run for protection. They had, without doubt, crossed the ice to +this spot, and the thaw coming on had detained them there, and made them +an easy prey to the pursuer. This island was accordingly named Isle de +Carreboeuf. + +I sat up the whole of this night to observe the setting and rising of +the sun. That orb was beneath the horizon four hours twenty-two +minutes, and rose North 20. East by compass. It, however, froze so +hard, that, during the sun's disappearance, the water was covered with +ice half a quarter of an inch thick. + + +_Monday, 22._--We embarked at half past three in the morning, and +rounding the outside of the islands, steered North-West thirteen miles +along the ice, edging in for the main land, the wind West, then West two +miles; but it blew so hard as to oblige us to land on an island at half +past nine, from whence we could just distinguish land to the South-East, +at the distance of about twelve leagues; though we could not determine +whether it was a continuation of the islands, or the shores of the +lake.[2] I took an observation at noon, which gave me 61. 53. North, +the variation of the compass being, at the same time, about two points. +M. Le Roux's people having provided two bags of _pemmican_.[3] to be +left in the island against their return; it was called _Isle a la +Cache_. + +The wind being moderated, we proceeded again at half past two in the +afternoon, and steering West by North among the islands, made as course +of eighteen miles. We encamped at eight o'clock on a small island, and +since eight in the morning had not passed any ice. Though the weather +was far from being warm, we were tormented, and our rest interrupted, by +the host of mosquitoes that accompanied us. + + +[1] The Slave Indians, having been driven from their original country by +their enemies, the Knisteneaux, along the borders of this part of the +river, it received that title, though it by no means involves the idea +of servitude, but was given to these fugitives as a term of reproach, +that denoted more than common savageness. + +[2] Sometimes the land looms, so that there may be a great deception as +to the distance; and I think this was the case at present. + +[3] Flesh dried in the sun, and afterwards pounded for the convenience +of carriage. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +JUNE, 1789. + +_Tuesday, 23._--Towards morning, the Indians who had not been able to +keep up with us the preceding day, now joined us, and brought two swans +and a goose. At half past three we re-embarked, and steering West by +North a mile and and half, with a Northerly wind, we came to the foot of +a traverse across a deep bay, West five miles, which receives a +considerable river at the bottom of it; the distance about twelve miles. +The North-West side of the bay was covered with many small islands that +were surrounded with ice; but the wind driving it a little off the land, +we had a clear passage on the inside of them. We steered South-West +nine miles under sail, then North-West nearly, through the islands, +forming a course of sixteen miles. We landed on the main land at half +past two in the afternoon at three lodges of Red-Knife Indians, so +called from their copper knives. They informed us, that there were many +more lodges of their friends at no great distance; and one of the +Indians set off to fetch them: they also said, that we should see no +more of them at present; as the Slave and Beaver Indians, as well as +others of the tribe, would not be here till the time that the swans cast +their feathers. In the afternoon it rained a torrent. + + +_Wednesday, 24._--M. Le Roux purchased of these Indians upwards of +eight packs of good beaver and marten skins; and there were not above +twelve of them qualified to kill beaver. The English chief got upwards +of an hundred skins on the score of debts due to him, of which he had +many outstanding in this country. Forty of them he gave on account of +debts due by him since the winters of 1786 and 1787, at the Slave Lake; +the rest he exchanged for rum and other necessary articles; and I added +a small quantity of that liquor as an encouraging present to him and his +young men. I had several consultations with these Copper Indian people, +but could obtain no information that was material to our expedition; nor +were they acquainted with any part of the river, which was the object of +my research, but the mouth of it. In order to save as much time as +possible in circumnavigating the bays, I engaged one of the Indians to +conduct us; and I accordingly equipped him with various articles of +clothing, etc. I also purchased a large new canoe, that he might embark +with the two young Indians in my service. + +This day, at noon, I took an observation, which gave me 62. 24. North +latitude; the variation of the compass being about twenty-six or +twenty-seven degrees to the East. + +In the afternoon I assembled the Indians, in order to inform them that I +should take my departure on the following day; but that people would +remain on the spot till their countrymen, whom they had mentioned, +should arrive; and that, if they brought a sufficient quantity of skins +to make it answer, the Canadians would return for more goods, with a +view to winter here, and build a fort,[1] which would be continued as +long as they should be found to deserve it. They assured me that it +would be a great encouragement to them to have a settlement of ours in +their country; and that they should exert themselves to the utmost to +kill beaver, as they would then be certain of getting an adequate value +for them. Hitherto, they said, the Chepewyans always pillaged them; or, +at most, gave little or nothing for the fruits of their labour, which +had greatly discouraged them; and that, in consequence of this +treatment, they had no motive to pursue the beaver, but to obtain a +sufficient quantity of food and raiment. + +I now wrote to Messrs. Macleod and Mackenzie, and addressed my papers to +the former, at Athabasca. + + +_Thursday, 25._--We left this place at three this morning, our canoe +being deeply laden, as we had embarked some packages that had come in +the canoes of M. Le Roux. We were saluted on our departure with some +volleys of small arms, which we returned, and steered South by West +straight across the bay, which is here no more than two miles and a half +broad, but, from the accounts of the natives, it is fifteen leagues in +depth, with a much greater breadth in several parts, and full of +islands. I sounded in the course of the traverse and found six fathoms +with a sandy bottom. Here, the land has a very different appearance +from that on which we have been since we entered the lake. Till we +arrived here there was one continued view of high hills and islands of +solid rock, whose surface was occasionally enlivened with moss, shrubs, +and a few scattered trees, of a very stinted growth, from an +insufficiency of soil to nourish them. But, notwithstanding their +barren appearance, almost every part of them produces berries of various +kinds, such as cranberries, juniper berries, raspberries, partridge +berries, gooseberries, and the pathegomenan, which is something like a +raspberry; it grows on a small stalk about a foot and a half high, in +wet, mossy spots. These fruits are in great abundance, though they are +not to be found in the same places, but in situations and aspects suited +to their peculiar natures. + +The land which borders the lake in this part is loose and sandy, but is +well covered with wood, composed of trees of a larger growth: it +gradually rises from the shore, and at some distance forms a ridge of +high land running along the coast, thick with wood and a rocky summit +rising above it. + +We steered South-South-East nine miles, when we were very much +interrupted by drifting ice, and with some difficulty reached an island, +where we landed at seven. I immediately proceeded to the further part +of it, in order to discover if there was any probability of our being +able to get from thence in the course of the day. It is about five +miles in circumference, and I was very much surprised to find that the +greater part of the wood with which it was formerly covered, had been +cut down within twelve or fifteen years, and that the remaining stumps +were become altogether rotten. On making inquiry concerning the cause +of this extraordinary circumstance, the English chief informed me, that +several winters ago, many of the Slave Indians inhabited the islands +that were scattered over the bay, as the surrounding waters abound with +fish throughout the year, but that they had been driven away by the +Knisteneaux, who continually made war upon them. If an establishment is +to be made in this country, it must be in the neighbourhood of this +place, on account of the wood and fishery. + +At eleven we ventured to re-embark, as the wind had driven the greatest +part of the ice past the island, though we still had to encounter some +broken pieces of it, which threatened to damage our canoe. We steered +South-East from point to point across five bays, twenty-one miles. We +took soundings several times, and found from six to ten fathom water. I +observed that the country gradually descended inland, and was still +better covered with wood than in the higher parts.--Wherever we +approached the land, we perceived deserted lodges, The hunters killed +two swans and a beaver; and at length we landed at eight o'clock in the +evening, when we unloaded and gummed our canoe. + + +_Friday, 26._--We continued our route at five o'clock, steering +South-East for ten miles across two deep bays; then South-South-East, +with islands in sight to the Eastward. We then traversed another bay in +a course of three miles, then South one mile to a point which we named +the Detour, and South-South-West four miles and an half, when there was +an heavy swell of the lake. Here I took an observation, when we were in +61. 40. North latitude We then proceeded South-West four miles, and +West-South-West among islands: on one of which our Indians killed two +rein-deer, but we lost three hours aft wind in going for them: this +course was nine miles. About seven in the evening we were obliged to +land for the night, as the wind became too strong from the South-East. +We thought we could observe land in this direction when the wind was +coming on from some distance. On the other side of the Detour, the land +is low, and the shore is flat and dangerous, there being no safe place +to land in bad weather, except in the islands which we had just passed. +There seemed to be plenty of moose and rein-deer in this country, as we +saw their tracks wherever we landed. There are also great numbers of +white partridges, which were at this season of a grey colour, like that +of the moor-fowl. There was some floating ice in the lake, and the +Indians killed a couple of swans. + + +_Saturday, 27._--At three this morning we were in the canoe, after +having passed a very restless night from the persecution of the +mosquitoes The weather was fine and calm, and our course West-South-West +nine miles, when we came to the foot of a traverse, the opposite point +in sight bearing South-West, distance twelve miles. The bay is at least +eight miles deep, and this course two miles more, in all ten miles. It +now became very foggy, and as the bays were so numerous, we landed for +two hours, when the weather cleared up, and we took the advantage of +steering South thirteen miles, and passed several small bays, when we +came to the point of a very deep one, whose extremity was not +discernible; the land bearing South from us, at the distance of about +ten miles. Our guide not having been here for eight winters, was at a +loss what course to take, though as well as he could recollect, this bay +appeared to be the entrance of the river. Accordingly, we steered down +it, about West-South-West, till we were involved in a field of broken +ice. We still could not discover the bottom of the bay, and a fog +coming on, made it very difficult for us to get to an island to the +South-West, and it was nearly dark when we effected a landing. + + +_Sunday, 28._--At a quarter past three we were again on the water, and +as we could perceive no current setting into this bay, we made the best +of our way to the point that bore South from us yesterday afternoon. We +continued our course South three miles more, South by West seven miles, +West fifteen miles, when by observation we were in 61 degrees North +latitude; we then proceeded West-North-West two miles. Here we came to +the foot of a traverse, the opposite land bearing South-West, distance +fourteen miles, when we steered into a deep bay, about a westerly +course; and though we had no land ahead in sight, we indulged the hope +of finding a passage, which, according to the Indian, would conduct us +to the entrance of the river. + +Having a strong wind aft, we lost sight of the Indians, nor could we put +on shore to wait for them, without risking material damage to the canoe, +till we ran to the bottom of the bay, and were forced among the rushes; +when we discovered that there was no passage there. In about two or +three hours they joined us, but would not approach our fire, as there +was no good ground for an encampment: they emptied their canoe of the +water which it had taken in, and continued their route, but did not +encamp till sunset The English chief was very much irritated against the +Red-Knife Indian, and even threatened to murder him, for having +undertaken to guide us in a course of which he was ignorant, nor had we +any reason to be satisfied with him, though he still continued to +encourage us, by declaring that he recollected having passed from the +river, through the woods, to the place where he had landed. In the +blowing weather to-day, we were obliged to make use of our large kettle, +to keep our canoe from filling, although we did not carry above three +feet sail. The Indians very narrowly escaped. + + +_Monday, 29._--We embarked at four this morning, and steered along the +South-West side of the bay. At half past five we reached the extremity +of the point, which we doubled, and found it to be the branch or passage +that was the object of our search, and occasioned by a very long island, +which separates it from the main channel of the river. It is about half +a mile across, and not more than six feet in depth; the water appeared +to abound in fish, and was covered with fowl, such as swans, geese, and +several kinds of ducks, particularly black ducks, that were very +numerous, but we could not get within gun shot of them. + +The current, though not very strong, set us South-West by West, and we +followed this course fourteen miles, till we passed the point of the +long island, where the Slave Lake discharges itself, and is ten miles in +breadth. There is not more than from five to two fathom water, so that +when the lake is low, it may be presumed the greatest part of this +channel must be dry. The river now turns to the Westward, becoming +gradually narrower for twenty-four miles, till it is not more than half +a mile wide; the current, however, is then much stronger, and the +sounding were three fathom and a half. The land on the North shore from +the lake is low, and covered with trees; that to the South is much +higher, and has also an abundance of wood. The current is very strong, +and the banks are of an equal height on both sides, consisting of a +yellow clay, mixed with small stones; they are covered with large +quantities of burned wood, lying on the ground, and young poplar trees, +that have sprung up since the fire that destroyed the larger wood. It +is a very curious and extraordinary circumstance, that land covered with +spruce pine, and white birch, when laid waste by fire, should +subsequently produce nothing but poplars, where none of that species of +tree were previously to be found. + +A stiff breeze from the Eastward drove us on at a great rate under sail, +in the same course, though obliged to wind among the islands. We kept +the North channel for about ten miles, whose current is much stronger +than that of the South; so that the latter is consequently the better +road to come up. Here the river widened, and the wind dying away, we +had recourse to our paddles. We kept our course to the North-West, on +the North side of the river, which is here much wider, and assumes the +form of a small lake; we could not, however, discover an opening in any +direction, so that we were at a loss what course to take, as our +Red-Knife Indian had never explored beyond our present situation. He at +the same time informed us that a river falls in from the North, which +takes its rise in the Horn Mountain, now in sight, which is the country +of the Beaver Indians; and that he and his relations frequently meet on +that river. He also added, that there are very extensive plains on both +sides of it, which abound in buffaloes and moose deer. + +By keeping this course, we got into shallows, so that we were forced to +steer to the left, till we recovered deep water, which we followed till +the channel of the river opened on us to the southward, we now made for +the shore, and encamped soon after sunset. Our course ought to have +been West fifteen miles, since we took to the paddle, the Horn Mountains +bearing from us North-West, and running North-North-East and South-South +West. Our soundings, which were frequent during the course of the day, +were from three to six fathoms water. The hunters killed two geese and +a swan: it appeared, indeed, that great numbers of fowls breed in the +islands which we had passed. + + +_Tuesday, 30._--At four this morning we got under way, the weather +being fine and calm. Our course was South-West by South thirty-six +miles. On the South side of the river is a ridge of low mountains, +running East and West by compass. The Indians picked up a white goose, +which appeared to have been lately shot with an arrow, and was quite +fresh. We proceeded South-West by South six miles, and then came to a +bay on our left, which is full of small islands, and appeared to be the +entrance of a river from the South. Here the ridge of mountains +terminates. This course was fifteen miles. + +At six in the afternoon there was an appearance of bad weather; we +landed therefore, for the night; but before we could pitch our tents, a +violent tempest came on, with thunder, lightning, and rain, which, +however, soon ceased, but not before we had suffered the inconvenience +of being drenched by it. The Indians were very much fatigued, having +been employed in running after wild fowl, which had lately cast their +feathers; they, however, caught five swans, and the same number of +geese. I sounded several times in the course of the day, and found from +four to six fathoms water. + + +[1] Fort is the name given to any establishment in this country. + + + + +CHAPTER III + + +JULY, 1789. + +_Wednesday, 1._--At half past four in the morning we continued our +voyage, and in a short time found the river narrowed to about half a +mile. Our course was Westerly among islands, with a strong current. +Though the land is high on both sides, the banks are not perpendicular. +This course was twenty-one miles; and on sounding we found nine fathoms +water. We then proceeded West-North-West nine miles, and passed a river +upon the South-East side; we sounded, and found twelve fathoms; and then +we went North-West by West three miles. Here I lost my lead, which had +fastened at the bottom, with part of the line, the current running so +strong that we could not clear it with eight paddles, and the strength +of the line, which was equal to four paddles. Continued North by West +five miles, and saw a high mountain, bearing South from us; we then +proceeded North-West by North four miles. We now passed a small river +on the North side, then doubled a point to West-South-West. At one +o'clock there came on lightning and thunder, with wind and rain, which +ceased in about half an hour, and left us almost deluged with wet, as we +did not land. There were great quantities of ice along the banks of the +river. + +We landed upon a small island, where there were the poles of four lodges +standing, which we concluded to have belonged to the Knisteneaux, on +their war excursions, six or seven years ago. This course was fifteen +miles West, to where the river of the Mountain falls in from the +Southward. It appears to be a very large river, whose mouth is half a +mile broad. About six miles further a small river flows in the same +direction; and our whole course was twenty-four miles. We landed +opposite to an island, the mountains to the Southward being in sight. +As our canoe was deeply laden, and being also in daily expectation of +coming to the rapids or fall, which we had been taught to consider with +apprehension, we concealed two bags of pemmican in the opposite island, +in the hope that they would be of future service to us. The Indians +were of a different opinion, as they entertained no expectation of +returning that season, when the hidden provisions would be spoiled. Near +us were two Indian encampments of the last year. By the manner in which +these people cut their wood, it appears that they have no iron tools. +The current was very strong during the whole of this day's voyage, and +in the article of provisions two swans were all that the hunters were +able to procure. + + +_Thursday, 2._--The morning was very foggy: but at half past five we +embarked; it cleared up, however, at seven, when we discovered that the +water, from being very limpid and clear, was become dark and muddy. +This alteration must have proceeded from the influx of some river to the +Southward, but where these streams first blended their waters, the fog +had prevented us from observing. At nine we perceived a very high +mountain ahead, which appeared, on our nearer approach, to be rather a +cluster of mountains, stretching as far as our view could reach to the +Southward, and whose tops were lost in the clouds. At noon there was +lightning, thunder, and rain, and at one, we came abreast of the +mountains; their summits appeared to be barren and rocky, but their +declivities were covered with wood; they appeared also to be sprinkled +with white stones, which glistened in the sun, and were called by the +Indians manetoe aseniak, or spirit stones. I suspected that they were +Talc, though they possessed a more brilliant whiteness; on our return, +however, these appearances were dissolved, as they were nothing more +than patches of snow. + +Our course had been West-South-West thirty miles and we proceeded with +great caution, as we continually expected to approach some great rapid +or fall. This was such a prevalent idea, that all of us were +occasionally persuaded that we heard those sounds which betokened a fall +of water. Our course changed to West by North, along the mountains, +twelve miles, North by West, twenty-one miles, and at eight o'clock in +the evening, we went on shore for the night, on the North side of the +river. We saw several encampments of the natives, some of which had +been erected in the present spring, and others at some former period. +The hunters killed only one swan and a beaver; the latter was the first +of its kind which we had seen in this river. The Indians complained of +the perseverance with which we pushed forward, and that they were not +accustomed to such severe fatigue as it occasioned. + + +_Friday, 3._--The rain was continual through the night, and did not +subside till seven this morning, when we embarked and steered +North-North-West for twelve miles, the river being enclosed by high +mountains on either side. We had a strong head-wind, and the rain was +so violent as to compel us to land at ten o' clock. According to my +reckoning, since my last observation, we had run two hundred and +seventeen miles West, and forty-four miles North. At a quarter past two +the rain subsided, and we got again under way, our former course +continuing for five miles. Here a river fell in from the North, and in +a short time the current became strong and rapid, running with great +rapidity among rocky islands, which were the first that we had seen in +this river, and indicated our near approach to rapids and falls. Our +present course was North-West by North ten miles, North-West three +miles, West-North-West twelve miles, and North-West three miles, when we +encamped at eight in the evening, at the foot of an high hill, on the +North shore, which in some parts rose perpendicular from the river. I +immediately ascended it, accompanied by two men and some Indians, and in +about an hour and an half, with very hard walking, we gained the summit, +when I was very much surprised to find it crowned by an encampment. The +Indians informed me, that it is the custom of the people who have no +arms to choose these elevated spots for the places of their residence, +as they can render them inaccessible to their enemies, particularly the +Knisteneaux, of whom they are in continual dread. The prospect from +this height was not so extensive as we expected, as it was terminated by +a circular range of hills, of the same elevation as that on which we +stood. The intervals between the hills were covered with small lakes, +which were inhabited by great numbers of swans. We, saw no trees but +the pine and the birch, which were small in size and few in number. + +We were obliged to shorten our stay here, from the swarms of mosquitoes +which attacked us on all sides and were, indeed, the only inhabitants of +the place. We saw several encampments of the natives in the course of +the day, but none of them were of this year's establishment. Since four +in the afternoon the current had been so strong, that it was at length, +in an actual ebullition, and produced an hissing noise like a kettle of +water in a moderate state of boiling. The weather was now become +extremely cold, which was the more sensibly felt, as it had been very +sultry sometime before and since we had been in the river. + + +_Saturday, 4._--At five in the morning, the wind and weather having +undergone no alteration from yesterday, we proceeded North-West by West +twenty-two miles, North-West six miles, North-West by North four miles +and West-North-West five miles; we then passed the mouth of a small +river from the North, and after doubling a point, South-West one mile, +we passed the influx of an other river from the South. We then +continued our course North-North-West, with a mountain ahead, fifteen +miles, when the opening of two rivers appeared opposite to each other: +we then proceeded West four miles, and North-West thirteen miles. At +eight in the evening, we encamped on an island. The current was as +strong through the whole of this day as it had been the preceding +after-noon; nevertheless, a quantity of ice appeared along the banks of +the river. The hunters killed a beaver and a goose, the former of which +sunk before they could get to him: beavers, otters, bears, etc., if shot +dead at once, remain like a bladder, but if there remains enough of life +for them to struggle, they soon fill with water and go to the bottom. + + +_Sunday, 5._--The sun set last night at fifty-three minutes past nine, +by my watch, and rose at seven minutes before two this morning: we +embarked soon after, steering North-North-West, through islands for five +miles, and West four miles. The river then increased in breadth, and +the current began to slacken in a small degree; after the continuation +of our course, we perceived a ridge of high mountains before us, covered +with snow. West-South-West ten miles, and at three-quarters past seven +o'clock, we saw several smokes on the North shore, which we made every +exertion to approach. As we drew nearer, we discovered the natives +running about in great apparent confusion; some were making to the +woods, and others hurrying to their canoes. Our hunters landed before +us, and addressed the few that had not escaped, in the Chipewyan +language, which, so great was their confusion and terror, they did not +appear to understand. But when they perceived that it was impossible to +avoid us, as we were all landed, they made us signs to keep at a +distance, with which we complied, and not only unloaded our canoe, but +pitched our tents, before we made any attempt to approach them. During +this interval, the English chief and his young men were employed in +reconciling them to our arrival; and when they had recovered from their +alarm of hostile intention, it appeared that some of them perfectly +comprehended the language of our Indians; so that they were at length +persuaded, though not without evident signs of reluctance and +apprehension, to come to us. Their reception, however, soon dissipated +their fears, and they hastened to call their fugitive companions from +their hiding places. + +There were five families, consisting of twenty-five or thirty persons, +and of two different tribes, the Slave and Dog-rib Indians. We made +them smoke, though it was evident they did not know the use of tobacco; +we likewise supplied them with grog; but I am disposed to think, that +they accepted our civilities rather from fear than inclination. We +acquired a more effectual influence over them by the distribution of +knives, beads, awls, rings, gartering, fire-steels, flints, and hatchets; +so that they became more familiar even than we expected, for we could +not keep them out of our tents: though I did not observe that they +attempted to purloin any-thing. + +The information which they gave respecting the river, had so much of the +fabulous, that I shall not detail it: it will be sufficient just to +mention their attempts to persuade us that it would require several +winters to get to the sea, and that old age would come upon us before +the period of our return: we were also to encounter monsters of such +horrid shapes and destructive powers as could only exist in their wild +imaginations. They added, besides, that there were two impassable falls +in the river, the first of which was about thirty days march from us. + +Though I placed no faith in these strange relations, they had a very +different effect upon our Indians, who were already tired of the voyage. +It was their opinion and anxious wish, that we should not hesitate to +return. They said that, according to the information which they had +received, there were very few animals in the country beyond us, and that +as we proceeded, the scarcity would increase, and we should absolutely +perish from hunger, if no other accident befel us. It was with no small +trouble that they were convinced of the folly of these reasonings; and +by my desire, they induced one of those Indians to accompany us, in +consideration of a small kettle, an axe, a knife, and some other +articles. + +Though it was now three o'clock in the afternoon, the canoe was ordered +to be re-loaded, and as we were ready to embark our new recruit was +desired to prepare himself for his departure, which he would have +declined; but as none of his friends would take his place, we may be +said, after the delay of an hour, to have compelled him to embark. +Previous to his departure a ceremony took place, of which I could not +learn the meaning; he cut off a lock of his hair, and having divided it +into three parts, he fastened one of them to the hair on the upper part +of his wife's head, blowing on it three times with the utmost violence +in his power, and uttering certain words. The other two he fastened +with the same formalities, on the heads of his two children. + +During our short stay with these people, they amused us with dancing, +which they accompanied with their voices: but neither their song or +their dance possessed much variety. The men and women formed a +promiscuous ring. The former have a bone dagger or piece of stick +between the fingers of the right hand, which they keep extended above +the head, in continual motion: the left they seldom raise so high, but +work it backwards and forwards in a horizontal direction; while they +leap about and throw themselves into various antic postures, to the +measure of their music, always bringing their heels close to each other +at every pause. The men occasionally howl in imitation of some animal, +and he who continues this violent exercise for the longest period, +appears to be considered as the best performer. The women suffer their +arms to hang as without the power of motion. They are a meagre, ugly, +ill-made people, particularly about the legs, which are very clumsy and +covered with scabs. The latter circumstance proceeds probably from +their habitually roasting them before the fire. Many of them appeared +to be in a very unhealthy state, which is owing, as I imagine, to their +natural filthiness. They are of a moderate stature, and as far as could +be discovered, through the coat of dirt and grease that covers them, are +of a fairer complexion than the generality of Indians who are the +natives of warmer climates. + +Some of them have their hair of a great length; while others suffer a +long tress to fall behind, and the rest is cut so short as to expose +their ears, but no other attention whatever is paid to it. The beards +of some of the old men were long, and the rest had them pulled out by +the roots so that not a hair could be seen on their chins. The men have +two double lines, either black or blue, tattooed upon each cheek, from +the ear to the nose. The gristle of the latter is perforated so as to +admit a goose-quill or a small piece of wood to be passed through the +orifice. Their clothing is made of the dressed skins of the rein or +moose-deer, though more commonly of the former. These they prepare in +the hair for winter, and make shirts of both, which reach to the middle +of their thighs. Some of them are decorated with an embroidery of very +neat workmanship with porcupine quills and the hair of the moose, +coloured red, black, yellow, and white. Their upper garments are +sufficiently large to cover the whole body, with a fringe round the +bottom, and are used both sleeping and awake. Their leggins come half +way up the thigh, and are sewed to their shoes: they are embroidered +round the ancle, and upon every seam. The dress of the women is the +same as that of the men. The former have no covering on their private +parts, except a tassel of leather which dangles from a small cord, as it +appears, to keep off the flies, which would otherwise be very +troublesome. Whether circumcision be practised among them, I cannot +pretend to say, but the appearance of it was general among those whom I +saw. + +Their ornaments consist of gorgets, bracelets for the arms and wrists, +made of wood, horn, or bone, belts, garters, and a kind of band to go +round the head, composed of strips of leather of one inch and an half +broad, embroidered with porcupine quills, and stuck round with the claws +of bears or wild fowl inverted, to which are suspended a few short +thongs of the skin of an animal that resembles the ermine, in the form +of a tassel. Their cinctures and garters are formed of porcupine quills +woven with sinews, in a style of peculiar skill and neatness: they have +others of different materials, and more ordinary workmanship; and to +both they attach a long fringe of strings of leather, worked round with +hair of various colours. Their mittens are also suspended from the neck +in a position convenient for the reception of the hands. + +Their lodges are of a very simple structure: a few poles supported by a +fork, and forming a semicircle at the bottom, with some branches or a +piece of bark as a covering, constitutes the whole of their native +architecture. They build two of these huts facing each other, and make +the fire between them. The furniture harmonises with the buildings: +they have a few dishes of wood, bark, or horn; the vessels in which they +cook their victuals are in the shape of a gourd, narrow at the top and +wide at the bottom, and of watape,[1] fabricated in such a manner as to +hold water, which is made to boil by putting a succession of red-hot +stones into it. These vessels contain from two to six gallons. They +have a number of small leather bags to hold their embroidered work, +lines, and nets. They always keep an large quantity of the fibres of +willow bark, which they work into thread on their thighs. Their nets +are from three to forty fathoms in length, and from thirteen to +thirty-six inches in depth. The short deep ones they set in the eddy +current of rivers, and the long ones in the lakes. They likewise make +lines of the sinews of the rein-deer, and manufacture their hooks from +wood, horn, or bone. Their arms and weapons for hunting, are bows and +arrows, spears, daggers, and pogamagans, or clubs. The bows are about +five or six feet in length, and the strings are of sinews or raw skins. +The arrows are two feet and an half long, including the barb, which is +variously formed of bone, horn, flint, iron, or copper, and are winged +with three feathers. The pole of the spears is about six feet in +length, and pointed with a barbed bone of ten inches. With this weapon +they strike the rein-deer in the water. The daggers are flat and +sharp-pointed, about twelve inches long, and made of horn or bone. The +pogamagon is made of the horn of the rein-deer, the branches being all +cut off, except that which forms the extremity. This instrument is +about two feet in length, and is employed to despatch their enemies in +battle, and such animals as they catch in snares placed for that +purpose. These are about three fathom long, and are made of the green +skin of the rein or moose-deer, but in such small strips, that it +requires from ten to thirty strands to make this cord, which is not +thicker than a cod-line; and strong enough to resist any animal that can +be entangled in it. Snares or nooses are also made of sinews to take +lesser animals, such as hares and white partridges, which are very +numerous. Their axes are manufactured of a piece of brown or grey stone +from six to eight inches long, and two inches thick. The inside is +flat, and the outside round and tapering to an edge, an inch wide. They +are fastened by the middle with the flat side inwards to a handle two +feet long, with a cord of green skin. This is the tool with which they +split their wood, and we believe, the only one of its kind among them, +They kindle fire, by striking together a piece of white or yellow +pyrites and a flint stone, over a piece of touchwood. They are +universally provided with a small bag containing these materials, so +that they are in a continual state of preparation to produce fire. From +the adjoining tribes, the Red-Knives and Chepewyans, they procure, in +barter for marten skins and a few beaver, small pieces of iron, of which +they manufacture knives, by fixing them at the end of a short stick, and +with them and the beaver's teeth, they finish all their work. They keep +them in a sheath hanging to their neck, which also contains their awls +both of iron and horn. + +Their canoes are small, pointed at both ends, flat-bottomed and covered +in the fore part. They are made of the bark of the birch-tree and +fir-wood, but of so slight a construction, that the man whom one of +these light vessels bears on the water, can, in return, carry it over +land without any difficulty. It is very seldom that more than one +person embarks in them, nor are they capable of receiving more than two. +The paddles are six feet long, one half of which is occupied by a blade +of about eight inches wide. These people informed us, that we had +passed large bodies of Indians who inhabit the mountains on the east +side of the river. + +At four in the afternoon we embarked, and our Indian acquaintance +promised to remain on the bank of the river till the fall, in case we +should return. Our course was West-South-West, and we soon passed the +Great Bear Lake River, which is of a considerable depth and an hundred +yards wide: its water is clear, and has the greenish hue of the sea. We +had not proceeded more than six miles when we were obliged to land for +the night, in consequence of an heavy gust of wind, accompanied with +rain. We encamped beneath a rocky hill, on the top of which, according +to the information of our guide, it blew a storm every day throughout +the year. He found himself very uncomfortable in his new situation, and +pretended that he was very ill, in order that he might be permitted to +return to his relations. To prevent his escape, it became necessary to +keep a strict watch over him during the night. + + +_Monday, 6._--At three o'clock, in a very raw and cloudy morning, we +embarked, and steered West-South-West four miles, West four miles, +West-North-West five miles, West eight miles, West by South fifteen +miles, West twenty-seven miles, South-West nine miles, then West six +miles, and encamped at half past seven. We passed through numerous +islands, and had a ridge of snowy mountains always in sight. Our +conductor informed us that great numbers of bears and small white +buffaloes, frequent those mountains, which are also inhabited by +Indians. We encamped in a similar situation to that of the preceding +evening, beneath another high rocky hill, which I attempted to ascend, +in company with one of the hunters, but before we had got half way to +the summit, we were almost suffocated by clouds of mosquitoes, and were +obliged to return. I observed, however, that the mountains terminated +here, and that a river flowed from the Westward: I also discovered a +strong rippling current, or rapid, which ran close under a steep +precipice of the hill. + + +_Tuesday, 7._--We embarked at four in the morning and crossed to the +opposite side of the river, in consequence of the rapid; but we might +have spared ourselves this trouble, as there would have been no danger +in continuing our course, without any circuitous deviation whatever. +This circumstance convinced us of the erroneous account given by the +natives of the great and approaching dangers of our navigation, as this +rapid was stated to be one of them. Our course was now North-North-West +three miles, West-North-West four miles, North-West ten miles, North two +miles, when we came to a river that flowed from the Eastward. Here we +landed at an encampment of four fires, all the inhabitants of which ran +off with the utmost speed except and old man and an old woman. Our +guide called aloud to the fugitives, and entreated them to stay, but +without effect the old man, however, did not hesitate to approach us, +and represented himself as too far advanced in life, and too indifferent +about the short time he had to remain in the world, to be very anxious +about escaping from any danger that threatened him; at the same time he +pulled his grey hairs from his head by handfuls to distribute among us, +and implored our favour for himself and his relations. Our guide, +however, at length removed his fears, and persuaded him to recall the +fugitives, who consisted of eighteen people; whom I reconciled to me on +their return with presents of beads, knives, awls, &c., with which they +appeared to be greatly delighted. They differed in no respect from +those whom we had already seen; nor were they deficient in hospitable +attentions; they provided us with fish, which was very well boiled, and +cheerfully accepted by us. Our guide still sickened after his home, and +was so anxious to return thither, that we were under the necessity of +forcing him to embark. + +These people informed us that we were close to another great rapid, and +that there were several lodges of their relations in its vicinity. + +Four canoes, with a man in each, followed us, to point out the +particular channels we should follow for the secure passage of the +rapid. They also abounded in discouraging stories concerning the +dangers and difficulties which we were to encounter. + +From hence our course was North-North-East two miles, when the river +appeared to be enclosed, as it were, with lofty, perpendicular, white +rocks, which did not afford us a very agreeable prospect. We now went +on shore, in order to examine the rapid, but did not perceive any signs +of it, though the Indians still continued to magnify its dangers: +however, as they ventured down it, in their small canoes, our +apprehensions were consequently removed, and we followed them at some +distance, but did not find any increase in the rapidity of the current; +at length the Indians informed us that we should find no other rapid but +that which was now bearing us along. The river at this place is not +above three hundred yards in breadth, but on sounding I found fifty +fathoms water. At the two rivulets that offer their tributary streams +from either side, we found six families, consisting of about thirty-five +persons, who gave us an ample quantity of excellent fish, which were, +however, confined to white fish, the poisson inconnu, and another of a +round form and greenish colour, which was about fourteen inches in +length. We gratified them with a few presents, and continued our +voyage. The men, however, followed us in fifteen canoes. + +This narrow channel is three miles long, and its course +North-North-East. We then steered North three miles, and landed at an +encampment of three or more families, containing twenty-two persons, +which was situated on the bank of a river, of a considerable appearance, +which came from the Eastward. We obtained hares and partridges from +these people, and presented in return such articles as greatly delighted +them. They very much regretted that they had no goods or merchandise to +exchange with us, as they had left them at a lake, from whence the river +issued, and in whose vicinity some of their people were employed in +setting snares for rein-deer. They engaged to go for their articles of +trade, and would wait our return, which we assumed them would be within +two months. There was a youth among them in the capacity of a slave, +whom our Indians understood much better than any of the natives of this +country whom they had yet seen; he was invited to accompany us, but took +the first opportunity to conceal himself, and we saw him no more. + +We now steered West five miles, when we again landed, and found two +families, containing seven people, but had reason to believe that there +were others hidden in the woods. We received from them two dozen of +hares, and they were about to boil two more, which they also gave us. +We were not ungrateful for their kindness, and left them. Our course +was now North-West four miles, and at nine we landed and pitched our +tents, when one of our people killed a grey crane. Our conductor +renewed his complaints, not, as he assured us, from any apprehension of +our ill treatment, but of the Esquimaux, whom he represented as a very +wicked and malignant people; who would put us all to death. He added, +also, that it was but two summers since a large party of them came up +this river, and killed many of his relations. Two Indians followed us +from the last lodges. + + +_Wednesday, 8._--At half past two in the morning we embarked, and +steered a Westerly course, and soon after put ashore at two lodges of +nine Indians. We made them a few trifling presents, but without +disembarking, and had proceeded but a small distance from thence, when +we observed several smokes beneath a hill, on the North shore, and on +our approach we perceived the natives climbing the ascent to gain the +woods. The Indians, however, in the two small canoes which were ahead +of us, having assured them of our friendly intentions, they returned to +their fires, and we disembarked. Several of them were clad in +hare-skins, but in every other circumstance they resembled those whom we +had already seen. We were, however, informed that they were of a +different tribe, called the Hare Indians, as hares and fish are their +principal support, from the scarcity of rein-deer and beaver, which are +the only animals of the larger kind that frequent this part of the +country. They were twenty-five in number; and among them was a woman +who was afflicted with an abscess in the belly, and reduced, in +consequence, to a mere skeleton: at the same time several old women were +singing and howling around her; but whether these noises were to operate +as a charm for her cure, or merely to amuse and console her, I do not +pretend to determine. A small quantity of our usual presents were +received by them with the greatest satisfaction. + +Here we made an exchange of our guide, who had become so troublesome +that we were obliged to watch him night and day, except when he was upon +the water. The man, however, who had agreed to go in his place soon +repented of his engagement, and endeavoured to persuade us that some of +his relations further down the river, would readily accompany us, and +were much better acquainted with the river than himself. But, as he had +informed us ten minutes before that we should see no more of his tribe, +we paid very little attention to his remonstrances, and compelled him to +embark. + +In about three hours a man overtook us in a canoe, and we suspected that +his object was to facilitate, in some way or other, the escape of our +conductor. About twelve we also observed an Indian walking along the +North-East shore, when the small canoes paddled towards him. We +accordingly followed, and found three men, three women, and two +children, who had been on an hunting expedition. They had some flesh of +the rein-deer, which they offered to us, but it was so rotten, as well +as offensive to the smell, that we excused ourselves from accepting it. +They had also their wonderful stories of danger and terror, as well as +their countrymen, whom we had already seen; and we were now informed, +that behind the opposite island there was a Manitoe or spirit, in the +river, which swallowed every person that approached it. As it would +have employed half a day to have indulged our curiosity in proceeding to +examine this phenomenon, we did not deviate from our course, but left +these people with the usual presents, and proceeded on our voyage. Our +course and distance this day were West twenty-eight miles, +West-North-West twenty-three miles, West-South-West six miles, West by +North five miles, South-West four miles, and encamped at eight o'clock. +A fog prevailed the greater part of the day, with frequent showers of +small rain. + + +[1] Watape is the name given to the divided roots of the spruce fir, +which the natives weave into a degree of compactness that renders it +capable of containing a fluid. The different parts of the bark canoes +are also sewed together with this kind of filament. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +JULY, 1789. + +_Thursday, 9._--Thunder and rain prevailed during the night, and, in +the course of it, our guide deserted; we therefore compelled another of +these people, very much against his will, to supply the place of his +fugitive countryman. We also took away the paddles of one of them who +remained behind, that he might not follow us on any scheme of promoting +the escape of his companion, who was not easily pacified. At length, +however, we succeeded in the act of conciliation, and at half past three +quitted our station. In a short time we saw a smoke on the East shore, +and directed our course towards it. Our new guide began immediately to +call to the people that belonged to it in a particular manner, which we +did not comprehend. He informed us that they were not of his tribe, but +were a very wicked, malignant people, who would beat us cruelly, pull +our hair with great violence from our heads, and maltreat us in various +other ways. + +The men waited our arrival, but the women and children took to the +woods. There were but four of these people, and previous to our +landing, they all harangued us at the same moment, and apparently with +violent anger and resentment. Our hunters did not understand them, but +no sooner had our guide addressed them, than they were appeased. I +presented them with beads, awls, etc., and when the women and children +returned from the woods, they were gratified with similar articles. +There were fifteen of them; and of a more pleasing appearance than any +which we had hitherto seen, as they were healthy, full of flesh, and +clean in their persons. Their language was somewhat different, but I +believe chiefly in the accent, for they and our guide conversed +intelligibly with each other; and the English chief clearly comprehended +one of them, though he was not himself understood. + +Their arms and utensils differ but little from those which have been +described in a former chapter. The only iron they have is in small +pieces, which serve them for knives. They obtain this metal from the +Esquimaux Indians. Their arrows are made of very light wood, and are +winged only with two feathers; their bows differed from any which we had +seen, and we understood that they were furnished by the Esquimaux, who +are their neighbours: they consist of two pieces, with a very strong +cord of sinews along the back, which is tied in several places, to +preserve its shape; when this cord becomes wet, it requires a strong +bow-string, and a powerful arm to draw it. The vessel in which they +prepare their food, is made of a thin frame of wood, and of an oblong +shape; the bottom is fixed in a groove, in the same manner as a cask. +Their shirts are not cut square at the bottom, but taper to a point, +from the belt downwards as low as the knee, both before and behind, with +a border, embellished with a short fringe. They use also another +fringe, similar to that which has been already described, with the +addition of the stone of a grey farinaceous berry, of the size and shape +of a large barley-corn: it is of a brown colour, and fluted, and being +bored is run on each string of the fringe; with this they decorate their +shirts, by sewing it in a semicircle on the breast and back, and +crossing over both shoulders; the sleeves are wide and short, but the +mittens supply their deficiency, as they are long enough to reach over a +part of the sleeve, and are commodiously suspended by a cord from the +neck. If their leggins were made with waistbands, they might with great +propriety be denominated trousers: they fasten them with a cord round +the middle, so that they appear to have a sense of decency which their +neighbours can not boast. Their shoes are sewed to their leggins, and +decorated on every seam. One of the men was clad in a shirt made of the +skins of the musk-rat. The dress of the women is the same as that of +the men, except in their shirts, which are longer, and without the +finishing of a fringe on their breast. Their peculiar mode of tying the +hair is as follows:--that which grows on the temples, or the fore +part of the skull, is formed into two queues, hanging down before the +ears; that of the scalp or crown is fashioned in the same manner to the +back of the neck, and is then tied with the rest of the hair, at some +distance from the head. A thin cord is employed for these purposes, and +very neatly worked with hair, artificially coloured. The women, and, +indeed, some of the men, let their hair hang loose on their shoulders, +whether it be long or short. + +We purchased a couple of very large moose skins from them, which were +very well dressed; indeed we did not suppose that there were any of +those animals in the country; and it appears from the accounts of the +natives themselves, that they are very scarce. As for the beaver, the +existence of such a creature does not seem to be known by them. Our +people bought shirts of them, and many curious articles, &c. They +presented us with a most delicious fish, which was less than a herring, +and very beautifully spotted with black and yellow: its dorsal fin +reached from the head to the tail; in its expanded state takes a +triangular form, and is variegated with the colours that enliven the +scales: the head is very small, and the mouth is armed with +sharp-pointed teeth. + +We prevailed on the native, whose language was most intelligible, to +accompany us. He informed us that we should sleep ten nights more +before we arrived at the sea; that several of his relations resided in +the immediate vicinity of this part of the river, and that in three +nights we should meet with the Esquimaux, with whom they had formerly +made war, but were now in a state of peace and amity. He mentioned the +last Indians whom we had seen in terms of great derision; describing +them as being no better than old women, and as abominable liars; which +coincided with the notion we already entertained of them. + +As we pushed off, some of my men discharged their fowling pieces, that +were only loaded with powder, at the report of which the Indians were +very much alarmed, as they had not before heard the discharge of +firearms. This circumstance had such an effect upon our guide, that we +had reason to apprehend he would not fulfil his promise. When, however, +he was informed that the noise which he had heard was a signal of +friendship, he was persuaded to embark in his own small canoe, though he +had been offered a seat in ours. + +Two of his companions, whom he represented as his brothers, followed us +in their canoes; and they amused us not only with their native songs, +but with others, in imitation of the Esquimaux; and our new guide was so +enlivened by them, that the antics he performed, in keeping time to the +singing, alarmed us with continual apprehension that his boat must +upset: but he was not long content with his confined situation, and +paddling up alongside our canoe, requested us to receive him in it, +though but a short time before he had resolutely refused to accept our +invitation. No sooner had he entered our canoe, than he began to +perform an Esquimaux dance, to our no small alarm. He was, however, +soon prevailed upon to be more tranquil; when he began to display +various indecencies, according to the customs of the Esquimaux, of which +he boasted an intimate acquaintance. On our putting to shore, in order +to leave his canoe, he informed us, that on the opposite hill the +Esquimaux, three winters before, killed his grandfather. We saw a fox, +and a ground-hog on the hill, the latter of which the brother of our +guide shot with his bow and arrow. + +About four in the afternoon we perceived a smoke on the West shore, when +we traversed and landed. The natives made a most terrible uproar, +talking with great vociferation, and running about as if they were +deprived of their senses, while the greater part of the women, with the +children, fled away. Perceiving the disorder which our appearance +occasioned among these people, we had waited some time before we quitted +the canoe; and I have no doubt, if we had been without people to +introduce us, that they would have attempted some violence against us; +for when the Indians send away their women and children, it is always +with a hostile design. At length we pacified them with the usual +presents, but they preferred beads to any of the articles that I offered +them; particularly such as were of a blue colour; and one of them even +requested to exchange a knife which I had given him for a small quantity +of those ornamental baubles. I purchased of them two shirts for my +hunters; and at the same time they presented me with some arrows, and +dried fish. This party consisted of five families, to the amount, as I +suppose, of forty men, women, and children; but I did not see them all, +as several were afraid to venture from their hiding-places. They are +called _Deguthee Dinees_, or the _Quarrellers_. + +Our guide, like his predecessors, now manifested his wish to leave us, +and entertained similar apprehensions that we should not return by this +passage. He had his alarms also respecting the Esquimaux, who might +kill us and take away the women. Our Indians, however, assured him that +we had no fears of any kind, and that he need not be alarmed for +himself. They also convinced him that we should return by the way we +were going, so that he consented to re-embark without giving us any +further trouble; and eight small canoes followed us. Our courses this +day were South-West by West six miles, South-West by South thirty miles, +South-West three miles, West by South twelve miles, West by North two +miles, and we encamped at eight in the evening on the Eastern bank of +the river. + +The Indians whom I found here, informed me, that from the place where I +this morning met the first of their tribe, the distance overland, on the +East side, to the sea, was not long, and that from hence, by proceeding +to the Westward, it was still shorter. They also represented the land +on both sides as projecting to a point. These people do not appear to +harbour any thievish dispositions; at least we did not perceive that +they took, or wanted to take, anything from us by stealth or artifice. +They enjoyed the amusements of dancing and jumping in common with those +we had already seen; and, indeed, these exercises seem to be their +favourite diversions. + +About mid-day the weather was sultry, but in the afternoon it became +cold. There was a large quantity of wild flax, the growth of last year, +laying on the ground, and the new plants were sprouting up through it. +This circumstance I did not observe in any other part. + + +_Friday, 10._--At four in the morning we embarked, at a small distance +from the place of our encampment; the river, which here becomes +narrower, flows between high rocks; and a meandering course took us +North-West four miles. At this spot the banks became low; indeed, from +the first rapid, the country does not wear a mountainous appearance; but +the banks of the river are generally lofty, in some places perfectly +naked, and in others well covered with small trees, such as the fir and +the birch. We continued our last course for two miles, with mountains +before us; whose tops were covered with snow. + +The land is low on both sides of the river, except these mountains, +whose base is distant about ten miles: here the river widens, and runs +through various channels, formed by islands, some of which are without a +tree, and little more than banks of mud and sand; while others are +covered with a kind of spruce fir, and trees of a larger size than we +had seen for the last ten days. Their banks, which are about six feet +above the surface of the water, display a face of solid ice, intermixed +with veins of black earth, and as the heat of the sun melts the ice, the +trees frequently fall into the river. + +So various were the channels of the river at this time, that we were at +a loss which to take. Our guide preferred the Easternmost, on account +of the Esquimaux, but I determined to take the middle channel, as it +appeared to be a larger body of water, and running North and South: +besides, as there was a greater chance of seeing them I concluded, that +we could always go to the Eastward, whenever we might prefer it. Our +course was now West by North six miles, North-West by West, the snowy +mountains being West by South from us, and stretching to the Northward +as far as we could see. According to the information of the Indians, +they are part of the chain of mountains which we approached on the third +of this month. I obtained an observation this day that gave me +67. 47. North latitude, which was farther North than I expected, +according to the course I kept: but the difference was owing to the +variation of the compass, which was more Easterly than I imagined. From +hence it was evident that these waters emptied themselves into the +Hyperborean Sea; and though it was probable that, from the want of +provision, we could not return to Athabasca in the course of the season, +I nevertheless, determined to penetrate to the discharge of them. + +My new conductor being very much discouraged and quite tired of his +situation, used his influence to prevent our proceeding. He had never +been, he said, at the _Benahullo Toe_, or White Man's Lake; and that +when he went to the Esquimaux Lake, which is at no great distance, he +passed over land from the place where we found him, and to that part +where the Esquimaux pass the summer. In short, my hunters also became +so disheartened from these accounts, and other circumstances, that I was +confident they would have left me, if it had been in their power. I, +however, satisfied them in some degree, by the assurance, that I would +proceed onwards but seven days more, and if I did not then get to the +sea, I would return. Indeed, the low state of our provisions, without +any other consideration, formed a very sufficient security for the +maintenance of my engagement. Our last course was thirty-two miles, +with a stronger current than could be expected in such a low country. + +We now proceeded North-North-West four miles, North-West three miles, +North-East two miles, North-West by West three miles, and North-East two +miles. At half past eight in the evening we landed and pitched our +tents, near to where there had been three encampments of the Esquimaux, +since the breaking up of the ice. The natives, who followed us +yesterday, left us at our station this morning. In the course of the +day we saw large flocks of wild fowl. + + +_Saturday, 11._--I sat up all night to observe the sun. At half past +twelve I called up one of the men to view a spectacle which he had never +before seen; when, on seeing the sun so high, he thought it was a signal +to embark, and began to call the rest of his companions, who would +scarcely be persuaded by me, that the sun had not descended nearer to +the horizon, and that it was now but a short time past midnight. + +We reposed, however, till three quarters after three, when we entered +the canoe, and steered about North-West, the river taking a very +serpentine course. About seven we saw a ridge of high land; at twelve +we landed at a spot where we observed that some of the natives had +lately been. I counted thirty places where there had been fires; and +some of the men who went further, saw as many more. They must have been +here for a considerable time, though it does not appear that they had +erected any huts. A great number of poles, however, were seen fixed in +the river, to which they had attached their nets, and there seemed to be +an excellent fishery. One of the fish, of the many which we saw leap +out of the water, fell into our canoe; it was about ten inches long, and +of a round shape. About the places where they had made their fires, +were scattered pieces of whalebone, and thick burned leather, with parts +of the frames of three canoes; we could also observe where they had +spilled train oil; and there was the singular appearance of a spruce +fir, stripped of its branches to the top like an English May-pole. The +weather was cloudy, and the air cold and unpleasant. From this place +for about five miles, the river widens, it then flows in a variety of +narrow, meandering channels, amongst low islands, enlivened with no +trees, but a few dwarf willows. + +At four, we landed, where there were three houses, or rather huts, +belonging to the natives. The ground-plot is of an oval form, about +fifteen feet long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at either +end; the whole of it is dug about twelve inches below the surface of the +ground, and one half of it is covered over with willow branches; which +probably serves as a bed for the whole family. + +A space, in the middle of the other part, of about four feet wide, is +deepened twelve inches more, and is the only spot in the house where a +grown person can stand upright. One side of it is covered, as has been +already described, and the other is the hearth or fireplace, of which, +however, they do not make much use. Though it was close to the wall, +the latter did not appear to be burned. The door or entrance is in the +middle of one end of the house, and is about two feet and an half high, +and two feet wide, and has a covered way or porch five feet in length; +so that it is absolutely necessary to creep on all fours in order to get +into, or out of, this curious habitation. There is a hole of about +eighteen inches square on the top of it, which serves the threefold +purpose of a window, an occasional door, and a chimney. The underground +part of the floor is lined with split wood. Six or eight stumps of +small trees driven into the earth, with the root upwards, on which are +laid some cross pieces of timber, support the roof of the building, +which is an oblong square of ten feet by six. The whole is made of +drift-wood covered with branches and dry grass; over which is laid a +foot deep of earth. On each side of these houses are a few square holes +in the ground of about two feet in depth, which are covered with split +wood and earth, except in the middle. These appeared to be contrived +for the preservation of the winter stock of provisions. In and about +the houses we found sledge runners and bones, pieces of whalebone, and +poplar bark cut in circles, which are used as corks to buoy the nets, +and are fixed to them by pieces of whalebone. Before each hut a great +number of stumps of trees were fixed in the ground, upon which it +appeared that they hung their fish to dry. + +We now continued our voyage, and encamped at eight o'clock. I +calculated our course at about North-West, and, allowing for the +windings, that we had made fifty-four miles. We expected, throughout +the day, to meet with some of the natives. On several of the islands we +perceived the print of their feet in the sand, as if they had been there +but a few days before, to procure wild fowl. There were frequent +showers of rain in the afternoon, and the weather was raw and +disagreeable. We saw a black fox; but trees were now become very rare +objects, except a few dwarf willows, of not more than three feet in +height. + +The discontents of our hunters were now renewed by the accounts which +our guide had been giving of that part of our voyage that was +approaching. According to his information, we were to see a larger lake +on the morrow. Neither he nor his relations, he said, knew any thing +about it, except that part which is opposite to, and not far from, their +country. The Esquimaux alone, he added, inhabit its shores, and kill a +large fish that is found in it, which is a principal part of their food; +this, we presumed, must; be the whale. He also mentioned white bears, +and another large animal which was seen in those parts, but our hunters +could not understand the description which he gave of it. He also +represented their canoes as being of a large construction, which would +commodiously contain four or five families. However, to reconcile the +English chief to the necessary continuance in my service, I presented +him with one of my capotes or travelling coats; at the same time, to +satisfy the guide, and keep him, if possible, in good humour, I gave him +a skin of the moose-deer, which, in his opinion, was a valuable present. + + +_Sunday, 12._--It rained with violence throughout the night, and till +two in the morning; the weather continuing very cold. We proceeded on +the same meandering course as yesterday, the wind North-North-West, and +the country so naked that scarce a shrub was to be seen. At ten in the +morning, we landed where there were four huts, exactly the same as those +which have been so lately described. The adjacent land is high and +covered with short grass and flowers, though the earth was not thawed +above four inches from the surface; beneath which was a solid body of +ice. This beautiful appearance, however, was strangely contrasted with +the ice and snow that are seen in the valleys. The soil, where there is +any, is a yellow clay mixed with stones. These huts appear to have been +inhabited during the last winter; and we had reason to think that some +of the natives had been lately there, as the beach was covered with the +track of their feet. Many of the runners and bars of their sledges were +laid together, near the houses, in a manner that seemed to denote the +return of the proprietors. There were also pieces of netting made of +sinews, and some bark of the willow. The thread of the former was +plaited, and no ordinary portion of time must have been employed in +manufacturing so great a length of cord. A square stone kettle, with a +flat bottom, also occupied our attention, which was capable of +containing two gallons; and we were puzzled as to the means these people +must have employed to have chiselled it out of a solid rock into its +present form. To these articles may be added, small pieces of flint +fixed into handles of wood, which probably serve as knives; several +wooden dishes; the stern and part of a large canoe; pieces of very thick +leather, which we conjectured to be the covering of a canoe; several +bones of large fish, and two heads; but we could not determine the +animal to which they belonged, though we conjectured that it must be the +sea-horse. + +When we had satisfied our curiosity we re-embarked, but we were at a +loss what course to steer, as our guide seemed to be as ignorant of this +country as ourselves. Though the current was very strong, we appeared +to have come to the entrance of the lake. The stream set to the West, +and we went with it to an high point, at the distance of about eight +miles, which we conjectured to be an island; but, on approaching it, we +perceived it to be connected with the shore by a low neck of land. I +now took an observation which gave 69. 1. North latitude. From the +point that has been just mentioned, we continued the same course for the +Westernmost point of an high island, and the Westernmost land in sight, +at the distance of fifteen miles. + +The lake was quite open to us to the Westward, and out of the channel of +the river there was not more than four feet water, and in some places +the depth did not exceed one foot, From the shallowness of the water it +was impossible to coast to the Westward. At five o'clock we arrived at +the island, and during the last fifteen miles, five feet was the deepest +water. The lake now appeared to be covered with ice, for about two +leagues distance, and no land ahead, so that we were prevented from +proceeding in this direction by the ice, and the shallowness of the +water along the shore. + +We landed at the boundary of our voyage in this direction, and as soon +as the tents were pitched I ordered the nets to be set, when I proceeded +with the English chief to the highest part of the island, from which we +discovered the solid ice, extending from the South-West by compass to +the Eastward. As far as the eye could reach to the South-West-ward, we +could dimly perceive a chain of mountains, stretching further to the +North than the edge of the ice, at the distance of upwards of twenty +leagues. To the Eastward we saw many islands, and in our progress we +met with a considerable number of white partridges, now become brown. +There were also flocks of very beautiful plovers, and I found the nest +of one of them with four eggs. White owls, likewise, were among the +inhabitants of the place: but the dead, as well as the living, demanded +our attention, for we came to the grave of one of the natives, by which +lay a bow, a paddle, and a spear., The Indians informed me that they +landed on a small island, about four leagues from hence, where they had +seen the tracks of two men, that were quite fresh; they had also found a +secret store of train oil, and several bones of white bears were +scattered about the place where it was hid. The wind was now so high +that it was impracticable for us to visit the nets. + +My people could not, at this time, refrain from expressions of real +concern, that they were obliged to return without reaching the sea: +indeed, the hope of attaining this object encouraged them to bear, +without repining, the hardships of our unremitting voyage. For some +time past their spirits were animated by the expectation that another +day would bring them to the _Mer d'ouest:_ and even in our present +situation they declared their readiness to follow me wherever I should +be pleased to lead them. We saw several large white gulls, and other +birds, whose back, and upper feathers of the wing are brown; and whose +belly, and under feathers of the wing are white. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +JULY, 1789. + +_Monday, 13._--We had no sooner retired to rest last night, if I may +use that expression, in a country where the sun never sinks beneath the +horizon, than some of the people were obliged to rise and remove the +baggage, on account of the rising of the water. At eight in the morning +the weather was fine and calm, which afforded an opportunity to examine +the nets, one of which had been driven from its position by the wind and +current. We caught seven poissons inconnus, which were unpalatable; a +white fish, that proved delicious; and another about the size of an +herring, which none of us had ever seen before, except the English +chief, who recognized it as being of a kind that abounds in Hudson's +Bay. About noon the wind blew hard from the Westward, when I took an +observation, which gave 69. 14. North latitude, and the meridian +variation of the compass was thirty-six degrees Eastward.[1] + +This afternoon I re-ascended the hill, but could not discover that the +ice had been put in motion by the force of the wind. At the same time I +could just distinguish two small islands in the ice, to the North-West +by compass. I now thought it necessary to give a new net to my men to +mount, in order to obtain as much provision as possible from the water, +our stores being reduced to about five hundred weight, which, without +any other supply, would not have sufficed for fifteen people above +twelve days. One of the young Indians, however, was so fortunate as to +find the net that had been missing, and which contained three of the +poissons inconnus. + + +_Tuesday, 14._--It blew very hard from the North-West since the +preceding evening. Having sat up till three in the morning, I slept +longer than usual; but about eight one of my men saw a great many +animals in the water, which he at first supposed to be pieces of ice. +About nine, however, I was awakened to resolve the doubts which had +taken place respecting this extraordinary appearance. I immediately +perceived that they were whales; and having ordered the canoe to be +prepared, we embarked in pursuit of them. It was, indeed, a very wild +and unreflecting enterprise, and it was a very fortunate circumstance +that we failed in our attempt to overtake them, as a stroke from the +tail of one of these enormous fish would have dashed the canoe to +pieces. We may, perhaps, have been indebted to the foggy weather for +our safety, as it prevented us from continuing our pursuit. Our guide +informed us that they are the same kind of fish which are the principal +food of the Esquimaux, and they were frequently seen as large as our +canoe. The part of them which appeared above the water was altogether +white, and they were much larger than the largest porpoise. + +About twelve the fog dispersed, and being curious to take a view of the +ice, I gave orders for the canoe to be got in readiness. We accordingly +embarked, and the Indians followed us. We had not, however, been an +hour on the water, when the wind rose on a sudden from the North-East, +and obliged us to tack about, and the return of the fog prevented us +from ascertaining our distance from the ice; indeed, from this +circumstance, the island which we had so lately left was but dimly seen. +Though the wind was close, we ventured to hoist the sail, and from the +violence of the swell it was by great exertions that two men could bale +out the water from our canoe. We were in a state of actual danger, and +felt every corresponding emotion of pleasure when we reached the land. +The Indians had fortunately got more to windward, so that the swell in +some measure drove them on shore, though their canoes were nearly filled +with water: and had they been laden, we should have seen them no more. +As I did not propose to satisfy my curiosity at the risk of similar +dangers, we continued our course along, the islands, which screened us +from the wind. I was now determined to take a more particular +examination of the islands, in the hope of meeting with parties of the +natives, from whom I might be able to obtain some interesting +intelligence, though our conductor discouraged my expectations, by +representing them as very shy and inaccessible people. At the same time +he informed me, that we should probably find some of them, if we +navigated the channel which he had originally recommended us to enter. + +At eight we encamped on the Eastern end of the island, which I had named +the Whale Island. It is about seven leagues in length, East and West by +compass; but not more than half a mile in breadth. We saw several red +foxes, one of which was killed. There were also five or six very old +huts on the point where we had taken our station. The nets were now +set, and one of them in five fathom water, the current setting +North-East by compass. This morning I ordered a post to be erected +close to our tents, on which engraved the latitude of the place, my own +name, the number of persons which I had with me, and the time we +remained there. + + +_Wednesday, 15._--Being awakened by some casual circumstance, at four +this morning, I was surprised on perceiving that the water had flowed +under our baggage. As the wind had not changed, and did not blow with +greater violence than when we went to rest, we were all of opinion that +this circumstance proceeded from the tide. We had, indeed, observed at +the other end of the island, that the water rose and fell; but we then +imagined that it must have been occasioned by the wind. The water +continued to rise till about six, but I could not ascertain the time +with the requisite precision, as the wind then began to blow with great +violence; I therefore determined, at all events, to remain here till the +next morning, though, as it happened, the state of the wind was such, as +to render my stay here an act of necessity. Our nets were not very +successful, as they presented us with only eight fish. From an +observation which I obtained at noon we were in 69. 7. North latitude. +As the evening approached, the wind increased, and the weather became +cold. Two swans were the only provision which the hunters procured for +us. + + +_Thursday, 16._--The rain did not cease till seven this morning, the +weather being at intervals very cold and unpleasant. Such was its +inconstancy, that I could not make an accurate observation; but the tide +appeared to rise sixteen or eighteen inches. + +We now embarked, and steered under sail among the islands, where I hoped +to meet with some of the natives, but my expectation was not gratified. +Our guide imagined that they were gone to their distant haunts, where +they fish for whales and hunt the rein-deer, that are opposite to his +country. His relations, he said, see them every year, but he did not +encourage us to expect that we should find any of them, unless it were +at a small river that falls into the great one, from the Eastward, at a +considerable distance from our immediate situation. We accordingly made +for the river, and stemmed the current. At two in the afternoon the +water was quite shallow in every part of our course, and we could always +find the bottom with the paddle. At seven we landed, encamped, and set +the nets. Here the Indians killed two geese, two cranes, and a white +owl. Since we entered the river, we experienced a very agreeable change +in the temperature of the air; but this pleasant circumstance was not +without its inconvenience, as it subjected us to the persecution of the +mosquitoes. + + +_Friday, 17._--On taking up the nets, they were found to contain but +six fish. We embarked at four in the morning, and passed four +encampments; which appeared to have been very lately inhabited. We then +landed upon a small round island, close to the Eastern shore; which +possessed somewhat of a sacred character, as the top of it seemed to be +a place of sepulture, from the numerous graves which we observed there. +We found the frame of a small canoe, with various dishes, troughs, and +other utensils, which had been the living property of those who could +now use them no more, and form the ordinary accompaniments of their last +abodes. As no part of the skins that must have covered the canoe was +remaining, we concluded that it had been eaten by wild animals that +inhabit, or occasionally frequent, the island. The frame of the canoe, +which was entire, was put together with whale-bone; it was sewed in some +parts, and tied in others. The sledges were from four to eight feet +long; the length of the bars was upwards of two feet; the runners were +two inches thick and nine inches deep; the prow was two feet and an half +high, and formed of two pieces, sewed with whalebone, to three other +thin spars of wood, which were of the same height; and fixed in the +runners by means of mortises, were sewed two thin broad bars lengthways, +at a small distance from each other; these frames were fixed together +with three or four cross bars, tied fast upon the runners, and on the +lower edge of the latter, small pieces of horn were fastened by wooden +pegs, that they might slide with greater facility. They are drawn by +shafts, which I imagine are applied to any particular sledge as they are +wanted as I saw no more than one pair of them. + +About half past one we came opposite to the first spruce-tree that we +had seen for some time: there are but very few of them on the main land, +and they are very small: those are larger which are found on the +islands, where they grow in patches, and close together. It is, indeed, +very extraordinary that there should be any wood whatever in a country +where the ground never thaws above five inches from the surface. We +landed at seven in the evening. The weather was now very pleasant, and +in the course of the day we saw great numbers of wild fowl, with their +young ones, but they were so shy that we could not approach them. The +Indians were not very successful in their foraging party, as they killed +only two grey cranes, and a grey goose. Two of them were employed on +the high land to the Eastward, through the greater part of the day, in +search of rein-deer, but they could discover nothing more than a few +tracks of that animal. I also ascended the high land, from whence I had +a delightful view of the river, divided into innumerable streams, +meandering through islands, some of which were covered with wood and +others with grass. The mountains, that formed the opposite horizon, +were at the distance of forty miles. The inland view was neither so +extensive nor agreeable, being terminated by a near range of bleak, +barren hills, between which are small lakes or ponds, while the +surrounding country is covered with tufts of moss, without the shade of +a single tree. Along the hills is a kind of fence, made with branches, +where the natives had set snares to catch white partridges. + + +_Saturday, 18._--The nets did not produce a single fish, and at three +o'clock in the morning we took our departure. The weather was fine and +clear, and we passed several encampments. As the prints of human feet +were very fresh in the sand, it could not have been long since the +natives had visited the spot. We now proceeded in the hope of meeting +with some of them at the river, whither our guide was conducting us with +that expectation. We observed a great number of trees, in different +places, whose branches had been lopped off to the tops. They denote the +immediate abode of the natives, and probably serve for signals to direct +each other to their respective winter quarters. Our hunters, in the +course of the day, killed two rein-deer, which were the only large +animals that we had seen since we had been in this river, and proved a +very seasonable supply, as our pemmican had become mouldy for some time +past; though in that situation we were under the necessity of eating it. + +In the valleys and low lands near the river, cranberries are found in +great abundance, particularly in favourable aspects. It is a singular +circumstance, that the fruit of two succeeding years may be gathered at +the same time, from the same shrub. Here was also another berry, of a +very pale yellow colour, that resembles a raspberry, and is of a very +agreeable flavour. There is a great variety of other plants and herbs, +whose names and properties are unknown to me. + +The weather became cold towards the afternoon, with the appearance of +rain, and we landed for the night at seven in the evening. The Indians +killed eight geese. During the greater part of the day I walked with +the English chief, and found it very disagreeable and fatiguing. Though +the country is so elevated, it was one continual morass, except on the +summits of some barren hills. As I carried my hanger in my hand, I +frequently examined if any part of the ground was in a state of thaw, +but could never force the blade into it, beyond the depth of six or +eight inches. The face of the high land, towards the river, is in some +places rocky, and in others a mixture of sand and stone veined with a +kind of red earth, with which the natives bedaub themselves. + + +_Sunday, 19._--It rained, and blew hard from the North, till eight in +the morning, when we discovered that our conductor had escaped. I was, +indeed, surprised at his honesty, as he left the moose-skin which I had +given him for a covering, and went off in his shirt, though the weather +was very cold. I inquired of the Indians if they had given him any +cause of offence, or had observed any recent disposition in him to +desert us, but they assured me that they had not in any instance +displeased him: at the same time they recollected that he had expressed +his apprehensions of being taken away as a slave; and his alarms were +probably increased on the preceding day, when he saw them kill the two +rein-deer with so much readiness. In the afternoon the weather became +fine and clear, when we saw large flights of geese with their young +ones, and the hunters killed twenty-two of them. As they had at this +time cast their feathers, they could not fly. They were of a small +kind, and much inferior in size to those that frequent the vicinity of +Athabasca. At eight, we took our station near an Indian encampment, +and, as we had observed in similar situations, pieces of bone, +rein-deer's horn, &c., were scattered about it. It also appeared, that +the natives had been employed here in working wood into arms, utensils, +&c. + + +_Monday, 20._--We embarked at three this morning, when the weather was +cloudy, with small rain and aft wind. About twelve the rain became so +violent as to compel us to encamp at two in the afternoon. We saw great +numbers of fowl, and killed among us fifteen geese and four swans. Had +the weather been more favourable, we should have added considerably to +our booty. We now passed the river, where we expected to meet some of +the natives, but discovered no signs of them. The ground close to the +river does not rise to any considerable height, and the hills, which are +at a small distance, are covered with the spruce fir and small birch +trees, to their very summits. + + +_Tuesday, 21._--We embarked at half past one this morning, when the +weather was cold and unpleasant, and the wind South-West. At ten, we +left the channels formed by the islands for the uninterrupted channel of +the river, where we found the current so strong, that it was absolutely +necessary to tow the canoe with a line. The land on both sides was +elevated, and almost perpendicular, and the shore beneath it, which is +of no great breadth, was covered with a grey stone that falls from the +precipice. We made much greater expedition with the line than we could +have done with the paddles. The men in the canoe relieved two of those +on shore every two hours, so that it was very hard and fatiguing duty, +but it saved a great deal of that time which was so precious to us. At +half past eight we landed at the same spot where we had already encamped +on the ninth instant. + +In about an hour after our arrival, we were joined by eleven of the +natives, who were stationed farther up the river, and there were some +among them whom we had not seen during our former visit to this place. +The brother of our late guide, however, was of the party, and was eager +in his inquiries after him; but our account did not prove satisfactory. +They all gave evident tokens of their suspicion, and each of them made a +distinct harangue on the occasion. Our Indians, indeed, did not +understand their eloquence, though they conjectured it to be very +unfavourable to our assertions. The brother, nevertheless, proposed to +barter his credulity for a small quantity of beads, and promised to +believe every thing I should say, if I would gratify him with a few of +those baubles; but he did not succeed in his proposition, and I +contented myself with giving him the bow and arrows which our conductor +had left with us. + +My people were now necessarily engaged in putting the fire-arms in +order, after the violent rain of the preceding day; an employment which +very much attracted the curiosity, and appeared in some degree, to +awaken the apprehensions of the natives. To their inquiries concerning +the motives of our preparation, we answered by showing a piece of meat +and a goose, and informing them, that we were preparing our arms to +procure similar provisions: at the same time we assured them, though it +was our intention to kill any animals we might find, there was no +intention to hurt or injure them. They, however, entreated us not to +discharge our pieces in their presence. I requested the English chief +to ask them some questions, which they either did not or would not +understand; so that I failed in obtaining any information from them. + +All my people went to rest; but I thought it prudent to sit up, in order +to watch the motions of the natives. This circumstance was a subject of +their inquiry; and their curiosity was still more excited, when they saw +me employed in writing. About twelve o'clock I perceived four of their +women coming along the shore; and they were no sooner seen by their +friends, than they ran hastily to meet them, and persuaded two of them, +who, I suppose, were young, to return, while they brought the other two, +who were very old, to enjoy the warmth of our fire; but, after staying +there for about half an hour, they also retreated. Those who remained, +immediately kindled a small fire, and laid themselves down to sleep +round it, like so many whelps, having neither skins or garments of any +kind to cover them, notwithstanding the cold that prevailed. My people +having placed their kettle of meat on the fire, I was obliged to guard +it from the natives, who made several attempts to possess themselves of +its contents; and this was the only instance I had hitherto discovered, +of their being influenced by a pilfering disposition. It might, +perhaps, be a general opinion, that provisions were a common property. +I now saw the sun set for the first time since I had been here before. +During the preceding night, the weather was so cloudy, that I could not +observe its descent to the horizon. The water had sunk, at this place, +upward of three feet since we had passed down the river. + + +_Wednesday, 22._--We began our march at half past three this morning, +the men being employed to tow the canoe. I walked with the Indians to +their huts, which were at a greater distance than I had any reason to +expect, for it occupied three hours in hard walking to reach them. We +passed a narrow, and deep river in our way, at the mouth of which the +natives had set their nets. They had hid their effects, and sent their +young women into the woods, as we saw but very few of the former, and +none of the latter. They had large huts built with drift-wood on the +declivity of the beach and in the inside the earth was dug away, so as +to form a level floor. At each end was a stout fork, whereon was laid a +strong ridge-pole, which formed a support to the whole structure, and at +covering of spruce bark preserved it from the rain. Various spars of +different heights were fixed within the hut, and covered with split fish +that hung on them to dry; and fires were made in different parts to +accelerate the operation. There were rails also on the outside of the +building, which were hung around with fish, but in a fresher state than +those within. The spawn is also carefully preserved and dried in the +same manner. We obtained as many fish from them as the canoe could +conveniently contain, and some strings of beads were the price paid for +them, an article which they preferred to every other. Iron they held in +little or no estimation. + +During the two hours that I remained here, I employed the English chief +in a continual state of inquiry concerning these people. The +information that resulted from this conference was as follows: + +This nation or tribe is very numerous, with whom the Esquimaux had been +continually at variance, a people who take every advantage of attacking +those who are not in a state to defend themselves; and though they had +promised friendship, had lately, and in the most treacherous manner, +butchered some of their people. As a proof of this circumstance, the +relations of the deceased showed us, that they had cut off their hair on +the occasion. They also declared their determination to withdraw all +confidence in future from the Esquimaux, and to collect themselves in a +formidable body, that they might be enabled to revenge the death of +their friends. + +From their account, a strong party of Esquimaux occasionally ascends +this river, in large canoes, in search of flint stones, which they +employ to point their spears and arrows. They were now at their lake +due East from the spot where we then were, which was at no great +distance over land, where they kill the rein-deer, and that they would +soon begin to catch big fish for the winter stock. We could not, +however, obtain any information respecting the lake in the direction in +which we were. To the Eastward and Westward where they saw it, the ice +breaks up, but soon freezes again. + +The Esquimaux informed them that they saw large canoes full of white men +to the Westward, eight or ten winters ago, from whom they obtained iron +in exchange for leather. The lake where they met these canoes, is +called by them _Belhoullay Toe_, or White Man's Lake. They also +represented the Esquimaux as dressing like themselves. They wear their +hair short, and have two holes perforated, one on each side of the +mouth, in a line with the under lip, in which they place long beads that +they find in the lake. Their bows are somewhat different from those +used by the natives we had seen, and they employ slings from whence they +throw stones with such dexterity that they prove very formidable weapons +in the day of battle. + +We also learned in addition from the natives, that we should not see any +more of their relations, as they had all left the river to go in pursuit +of rein-deer for their provisions, and that they themselves should +engage in a similar expedition in a few days. Rein-deer, bears, +wolverines, martens, foxes, hares, and white buffaloes are the only +quadrupeds in their country; and that the latter were only to be found +in the mountains to the Westward. + +We proceeded with the line throughout the day, except two hours, when we +employed the sail. We encamped at eight in the evening. From the place +we quitted this morning, the banks of the river are well covered with +small wood, spruce, firs, birch, and willow. We found it very warm +during the whole of our progress. + + +_Thursday, 23._--At five in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, +but found it very difficult to travel along the beach. We observed +several places where the natives had stationed themselves and set their +nets since our passage downwards. We passed a small river, and at five +o'clock our Indians put to shore in order to encamp, but we proceeded +onwards, which displeased them very much, from the fatigue they +suffered, and at eight we encamped at our position of the 8th instant. +The day was very fine, and we employed the towing line throughout the +course of it. At ten, our hunters returned, sullen and dissatisfied. +We had not touched any of our provision stores for six days, in which +time we had consumed two rein-deer, four swans, forty-five geese, and a +considerable quantity of fish: but it is to be considered, that we were +ten men, and four women. I have always observed, that the north men +possessed very hearty appetites, but they were very much exceeded by +those with me since we entered this river. I should really have thought +it absolute gluttony in my people, if my own appetite had not increased +in a similar proportion. + + +[1] The longitude has since been discovered, by the dead reckoning, to +be 135. West. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +JULY, 1789. + +_Friday, 24._--At five we continued our course, but, in a very short +time, were under the necessity of applying to the aid of the line, the +stream being so strong as to render all our attempts unavailing to stem +it with the paddles. We passed a small river, on each side of which the +natives and Esquimaux collect flint. The bank is an high, steep, and +soft rock, variegated with red, green, and yellow hues. From the +continual dripping of water, parts of it frequently fall and break into +small stony flakes like slate, but not so hard. Among them are found +pieces of _Petrolium_, which bears a resemblance to yellow wax, but is +more friable. The English chief informed me that rocks of a similar +kind are scattered about the country at the back of the Slave Lake, +where the Chepewyans collect copper. + +At ten, we had an aft wind, and the men who had been engaged in towing, +re-embarked. At twelve, we observed a lodge on the side of the river, +and its inhabitants running about in great confusion, or hurrying to the +woods. Three men waited our arrival, though they remained at some +distance from us, with their bows and arrows ready to be employed; or at +least, that appeared to be the idea they wished to convey to us, by +continually snapping the strings of the former, and the signs they made +to forbid our approach. The English chief, whose language they, in some +degree understood, endeavoured to remove their distrust of us; but till +I went to them with a present of beads, they refused to have any +communication with us. + +When they first perceived our sail, they took us for the Esquimaux +Indians, who employ a sail in their canoes. They were suspicious of our +designs, and questioned us with a view to obtain some knowledge of them. +On seeing us in possession of some of the clothes, bows, etc., which +must have belonged to some of the Deguthee Denees, or Quarrellers, they +imagined that we had killed some of them, and were bearing away the +fruits of our victory. They appeared, indeed, to be of the same tribe, +though they were afraid of acknowledging it. From their questions, it +was evident that they had not received any notice of our being in those +parts. + +They would not acknowledge that they had any women with them, though we +had seen them running to the woods; but pretended that they had been +left at a considerable distance from the river, with some relations, who +were engaged in killing rein-deer. These people had been here but a +short time, and their lodge was not yet completed; nor had they any fish +in a state of preparation for their provision. I gave them a knife and +some beads for an horn-wedge or chisel, with which they split their +canoe-wood. One of my Indians having broken his paddle, attempted to +take one of theirs, which was immediately contested by its owner, and on +my interfering to prevent this act of injustice, he manifested his +gratitude to me on the occasion. We lost an hour and a half in this +conference. + +The English chief was during the whole of the time in the woods, where +some of the hidden property was discovered, but the women contrived to +elude the search that was made after them. Some of these articles were +purloined, but I was ignorant of this circumstance till we had taken our +departure, or I should have given an ample remuneration. Our chief +expressed his displeasure at their running away to conceal themselves, +their property, and their young women, in very bitter terms. He said +his heart was against those slaves; and complained aloud of his +disappointment in coming so far without seeing the natives, and getting +something from them. + +We employed the sail and the paddle since ten this morning, and pitched +our tents at seven in the evening. We had no sooner encamped than we +were visited by an Indian whom we had seen before, and whose family was +at a small distance up the river: at nine he left us. The weather was +clear and serene. + + +_Saturday, 25._--We embarked this morning at a quarter past three, and +at seven we passed the lodge of the Indian who had visited us the +preceding evening. There appeared to have been more than one family, +and we naturally concluded that our visitor had made such an +unfavourable report of us, as to induce his companions to fly on our +approach. Their fire was not extinguished, and they had left a +considerable quantity of fish scattered about their dwelling. + +The weather was now very sultry; but the current had relaxed of its +force, so that the paddle was sufficient for our progress during the +greatest part of the day. The inland part of the country is mountainous +and the banks of the river low, but covered with wood, among which is +the poplar, but of small growth, and the first which we had seen on our +return. A pigeon also flew by us, and hares appeared to be in great +plenty. We passed many Indian encampments which we did not see in our +passage down the river. About seven the sky, to the Westward, became of +a steel blue colour, with lightning and thunder. We accordingly landed +to prepare ourselves against the coming storm; but before we could erect +our tents, it came on with such violence that we expected it to carry +every thing before it. The ridgepole of my tent was broken in the +middle, where it was sound, and nine inches and an half in +circumference; and we were obliged to throw ourselves flat on the ground +to escape being wounded by the stones that were hurled about in the air +like sand. The violence of the storm, however, subsided in a short +time, but left the sky overcast with the appearance of rain. + + +_Sunday, 26._--It rained from the preceding evening to this morning, +when we embarked at four o'clock. At eight we landed at three large +Indian lodges. Their inhabitants, who were asleep, expressed uncommon +alarm and agitation when they were awakened by us, though most of them +had seen us before. Their habitations were crowded with fish, hanging +to dry in every part; but as we wanted some for present use, we sent +their young men to visit the nets, and they returned with abundance of +large white fish, to which the name has been given of _poisson inconnu_; +some of a round shape, and green colour; and a few white ones; all which +were very agreeable food. Some beads, and a few other trifles, were +gratefully received in return. These people are very fond of iron work +of any kind, and my men purchased several of their articles for small +pieces of tin. + +There were five or six persons whom we had not seen before; and among +them was a Dog-rib Indian, whom some private quarrel had driven from his +country. The English chief understood him as well as one of his own +nation, and gave the following account of their conversation:-- + +He had been informed by the people with whom he now lives, the Hare +Indians, that there is another river on the other side of the mountains +to the South-West, which falls into the _Belhoullay Teo_, or +White-man's Lake, in comparison of which that on whose banks we then +were, was but a small stream; that the natives were very large, and very +wicked, and kill common men with their eyes; that they make canoes +larger than ours; that those who inhabit the entrance of it kill a kind +of beaver, the skin of which is almost red; and that large canoes often +frequent it. As there is no known communication by water with this +river, the natives who saw it went over the mountains. + +As he mentioned that there were some beavers in this part of the +country, I told him to hunt it, and desire the others to do the same, as +well as the martens, foxes, beaver-eater or wolverine, &c., which they +might carry to barter for iron with his own nation, who are supplied +with goods by us, near their country. He was anxious to know whether +`we should return that way; at the same time he informed us, that we +should see but few of the natives along the river, as all the young men +were engaged in killing rein-deer, near the Esquimaux Lake, which, he +also said, was at no great distance. The latter he represented as very +treacherous, and added, that they had killed one of his people. He told +us likewise, that some plan of revenge was meditating, unless the +offending party paid a sufficient price for the body of the murdered +person. + +My Indians were very anxious to possess themselves of a woman that was +with the natives, but as they were not willing to part with her, I +interfered, to prevent her being taken by force; indeed, I was obliged +to exercise the utmost vigilance, as the Indians who accompanied me were +ever ready to take what they could from the natives, without making them +any return. About twelve, we passed a river of some appearance, flowing +from the Eastward. One of the natives who followed us, called it the +Winter Road River. We did not find the stream strong to-day, along the +shore, as there were many eddy currents; we therefore employed the sail +during some hours of it, and went on shore for the night at half past +seven. + + +_Monday, 27._--The weather was now fine, and we renewed our voyage at +half past two. At seven we landed where there were three families, +situated close to the rapids. We found but few people; for as the +Indian who followed us yesterday had arrived here before us, we supposed +that the greater part had fled, on the intelligence which he gave of our +approach. Some of these people we had seen before, when they told us +that they had left their property at a lake in the neighbourhood, and +had promised to fetch it before our return; but we now found them as +unprovided as when we left them. They had plenty of fish, some of which +was packed up in birch bark. + +During the time we remained with them, which was not more than two +hours, I endeavoured to obtain some additional intelligence respecting +the river which had been mentioned on the preceding day; when they +declared their total ignorance of it, but from the reports of others, as +they had never been beyond the mountains, on the opposite side of their +own river; they had, however, been informed that it was larger than that +which washed the banks whereon they lived, and that its course was +towards the mid-day sun. They added, that there were people at a small +distance up the river, who inhabited the opposite mountains, and had +lately descended from them to obtain supplies of fish. These people, +they suggested, must be well acquainted with the other river, which was +the object of my inquiry. I engaged one of them, by a bribe of some +beads, to describe the circumjacent country upon the sand. This +singular map he immediately undertook to delineate, and accordingly +traced out a very long point of land between the rivers, though without +paying the least attention to their courses, which he represented as +running into the great lake, at the extremity of which, as he had been +told by Indians of other nations, there was a Belhoullay Couin, or White +Man's Fort. This I took to be Unalascha Fort, and consequently the +river to the West to be Cook's River; and that the body of water or sea +into which this river discharges itself at Whale Island, communicates +with Norton Sound. I made an advantageous proposition to this man to +accompany me across the mountains to the other river, but he refused it. +At the same time he recommended me to the people already mentioned, who +were fishing in the neighbourhood, as better qualified to assist me in +the undertaking which I had proposed. + +One of this small company of natives was grievously afflicted with +ulcers in his back, and the only attention which was paid to his +miserable condition, as far at least as we could discover, proceeded +from a woman, who carefully employed a bunch of feathers in preventing +the flies from settling upon his sores. + +At ten this morning we landed near the lodges which had already been +mentioned to us, and I ordered my people to make preparation for passing +the remaining part of the day here, in order to obtain that familiarity +with the natives which might induce them to afford me, without reserve, +the information that I should require from them. This object, however, +was in danger of being altogether frustrated, by a misunderstanding that +had taken place between the natives and my young Indians, who had +already arrived there. Before the latter could disembark, the former +seized the canoe, and dragged it on shore, and in this act of violence +the boat was broken, from the weight of the persons in it. This insult +was on the point of being seriously revenged, when I arrived, to prevent +the consequences of such a disposition. The variation of the compass +was about twenty-nine degrees to the East. + +At four in the afternoon I ordered my interpreter to harangue the +natives, assembled in council; but his long discourse obtained little +satisfactory intelligence from them. Their account of the river to the +Westward, was similar to that which he had already received: and their +description of the inhabitants of that country was still more absurd and +ridiculous. They represented them as being of a gigantic stature, and +adorned with wings; which, however, they never employed in flying. That +they fed on large birds, which they killed with the greatest ease, +though common men would be certain victims of their ferocity if they +ventured to approach them. They also described the people that +inhabited the mouth of the river as possessing the extraordinary power +of killing with their eyes, and devouring a large beaver at a single +meal. They added that canoes of very large dimensions visited that +place. They did not, however, relate these strange circumstances from +their own knowledge, but on the reports of other tribes, as they +themselves never ventured to proceed beyond the first mountains, where +they went in search of the small white buffaloes, as the inhabitants of +the other side endeavour to kill them whenever they meet. They likewise +mentioned that the sources of those streams which are tributary to both +the great rivers are separated by the mountains. It appeared to us, +however, that these people knew more about the country than they chose +to communicate, or at least reached me, as the interpreter, who had long +been tired of the voyage, might conceal such a part of their +communications as, in his opinion, would induce me to follow new routes, +or extend my excursions. + +No sooner was the conference concluded, than they began to dance, which +is their favourite, and, except jumping, their only amusement. In this +pastime old and young, male and female, continued their exertions, till +their strength was exhausted. This exercise was accompanied by loud +imitations of the various noises produced by the rein-deer, the bear, +and the wolf. When they had finished their antics, I desired the +English chief to renew the former subjects; which he did without +success. I therefore assumed an angry air, expressed my suspicions that +they withheld their information, and concluded with a menace, that if +they did not give me all the satisfaction in their power, I would force +one of them along with me to-morrow, to point out the other river. On +this declaration, they all, at one and the same moment, became sick, and +answered in a very faint tone, that they knew no more than they had +already communicated, and that they should die if I took any of them +away. They began to persuade my interpreter to remain with them, as +they loved him as well as they did themselves, and that he would be +killed if he continued with me. Nor did this proposition, aided as it +was by the solicitation of his women, fail of producing a considerable +effect upon him, though he endeavoured to conceal it from me. + +I now found that it would be fruitless for me to expect any accounts of +the country, or the other great river, till I got to the river of the +Bear Lake, where I expected to find some of the natives, who promised to +wait for us there. These people had actually mentioned this river to me +when we passed them, but I then paid no attention to that circumstance, +as I imagined it to be either a misunderstanding of my interpreter, or +that it was an invention which, with their other lies, might tend to +prevent me from proceeding down their river. + +We were plentifully supplied with fish, as well dry as fresh, by these +people; they also gathered as many hurtle-berries as we chose, for which +we paid with the usual articles of beads, awls, knives, and tin. I +purchased a few beaver-skins of them, which, according to their +accounts, are not very numerous in this country; and that they do not +abound in moose-deer and buffaloes. They were alarmed for some of their +young men, who were killing geese higher up the river, and entreated us +to do them no harm. About sunset I was under the necessity of shooting +one of their dogs, as we could not keep those animals from our baggage. +It was in vain that I had remonstrated on this subject, so that I was +obliged to commit the act which has been just mentioned. When these +people heard the report of the pistol, and saw the dog dead, they were +seized with a very general alarm, and the women took their children on +their backs and ran into the woods. I ordered the cause of this act of +severity to be explained, with the assurance that no injury would be +offered to themselves. The woman, however, to whom the dog belonged, +was very much affected, and declared that the loss of five children, +during the preceding winter, had not affected her so much as the death +of this animal. But her grief was not of very long duration; and a few +beads, &c., soon assuaged her sorrow. But as they can without +difficulty get rid of their affliction, they can with equal ease assume +it, and feign sickness if it be necessary with the same versatility. +When we arrived this morning, we found the women in tears, from an +apprehension that we were come to take them away. To the eye of an +European they certainly were objects of disgust; but there were those +among my party who observed some hidden charms in these females which +rendered them objects of desire, and means were found, I believe, that +very soon dissipated their alarms and subdued their coyness. + +On the upper part of the beach, liquorice grew in great abundance and it +was now in blossom. I pulled up some of the roots, which were large and +long; but the natives were ignorant of its qualities, and considered it +as a weed of no use or value. + + +_Tuesday, 28._--At four this morning I ordered my people to prepare +for our departure; and while they were loading the canoe, I went with +the English chief to visit the lodges, but the greater part of their +inhabitants had quitted them during the night, and those that remained +pretended sickness and refused to rise. When, however, they were +convinced that we did not mean to take any of them with us, their +sickness abandoned them, and when we had embarked, they came forth from +their huts, to desire that we would visit their nets, which were at a +small distance up the river, and take all the fish we might find in +them. We accordingly availed ourselves of this permission, and took as +many as were necessary for our own supply. + +We landed shortly after where there were two more lodges, which were +full of fish, but without any inhabitants, who were probably with the +natives whom we had just left. My Indians, in rummaging these places, +found several articles which they proposed to take; I therefore gave +beads and awls to be left as the purchase of them; but this act of +justice they were not able to comprehend, as the people themselves were +not present. I took up a net and left a large knife in the place of it. +It was about four fathoms long, and thirty-two meshes in depth; these +nets are much more convenient to set in the eddy current than our long +ones. This is the place that the Indians call a rapid, though we went +up it all the way with the paddle; so that the current could not be so +strong here, as in many other parts of the river; indeed, if it were so, +the difficulty of towing would be almost insuperable, as in many parts, +the rocks, which are of a great height, and rather project over the +water, leave no shore between them and the stream. These precipices +abound in swallows' nests. The weather was now very sultry, and at +eleven we were under the necessity of landing to gum our canoe. + +In about an hour we set forward, and at one in the afternoon, went on +shore at a fire, which we supposed to have been kindled by the young +men, who, as we had been already informed, were hunting geese. Our +hunters found their canoe and the fowl they had got, secreted in the +woods; and soon after, the people themselves, whom they brought to the +water side. Out of two hundred geese, we picked thirty-six which were +eatable; the rest were putrid, and emitted a horrid stench. They had +been killed some time without having been gutted, and in this state of +loathsome rottenness, we have every reason to suppose they are eaten by +the natives. We paid for those which we had taken, and departed. At +seven in the evening, the weather became cloudy and overcast; at eight +we encamped; at nine it began to thunder with great violence; a heavy +rain succeeded, accompanied with a hurricane, that blew down our tents, +and threatened to carry away the canoe, which had been fastened to some +trees with a cod-line. The storm lasted two hours, and deluged us with +wet. + + +_Wednesday, 29._--Yesterday the weather was cloudy, and the heat +insupportable; and now we could not put on clothes enough to keep us +warm. We embarked at a quarter past four with an aft wind, which drove +us on at a great rate, though the current is very strong. At ten we +came to the other rapid, which we got up with the line on the West side, +where we found it much stronger than when we went down; the water had +also fallen at least five feet since that time, so that several shoals +appeared in the river which we had not seen before, One of my hunters +narrowly escaped being drowned in crossing a river that falls in from +the Westward, and is the most considerable, except the mountain river, +that flows in this direction. We had strong Northerly and cold wind +throughout the whole of the day, and took our station for the night at a +quarter past eight. We killed a goose and caught some young ones. + + +_Thursday, 30._--We renewed our voyage at four this morning, after a +very rainy night. The weather was cloudy, but the cold had moderated, +and the wind was North-West. We were enabled to employ the sail during +part of the day, and encamped at about seven in the evening. We killed +eleven old geese and forty young ones which had just begun to fly. The +English chief was very much irritated against one of his young men: that +jealousy occasioned this uneasiness, and that it was not without very +sufficient cause, was all I could discover. For the last two or three +days we had eaten the liquorice root, of which there is a great +abundance on the banks of the river. We found it a powerful astringent. + + +_Friday, 31._--The rain was continual throughout the night, and did not +subside till nine this morning, when we renewed our progress. The wind +and weather the same as yesterday. About three in the afternoon it +cleared up and the wind died away, when it became warm. At five the +wind veered to the East, and brought cold along with it. There were +plenty of whortle berries, raspberries, and a berry called _poire_, +which grows in the greatest abundance. We were very much impeded in our +way by shoals of sand and small stones which render the water shallow at +a distance from the shore. In other places the bank of the river is +lofty: it is formed of black earth and sand, and, as it is continually +falling, displayed to us, in some parts, a face of solid ice, to within +a foot of the surface. We finished this day's voyage at a quarter +before eight, and in the course of it killed seven geese. + +We now had recourse to our corn, for we had only consumed three days of +our original provision since we began to mount the current. It was my +intention to have ascended the river on the South side from the last +rapid, to discover if there were any rivers of consequence that flow +from the Westward; but the sand-banks were so numerous and the current +so strong, that I was compelled to traverse to the opposite side, where +the eddy currents are very frequent, which gave us an opportunity of +setting our nets and making much more headway. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +AUGUST, 1789. + +_Saturday, 1._--We embarked at three this morning, the +weather being clear and cold, with the wind at South-East. At three in +the afternoon we traversed and landed to take the canoe in tow: here was +an encampment of the natives, which we had reason to suppose they had +quitted the preceding day. At five we perceived a family, consisting of +a man, two women, and as many children, stationed by the side of the +water, whom we had not seen before. They informed us, that they had but +few fish, and that none of their friends were in the neighbourhood, +except the inhabitants of one lodge on the other side of the river, and +a man who belonged to them, and who was now occupied in hunting. I now +found my interpreter very unwilling to ask such questions as were +dictated to him, from the apprehension, as I imagined, that I might +obtain such intelligence as would prevent him from seeing Athabasca this +season. We left him with the Indian, and pitched our tents at the same +place where we had passed the night on the fifth of last month. The +English chief came along with the Indian to our fire; and the latter +informed us that the native who went down part of the river with us had +passed there, and that we should meet with three lodges of his tribe +above the river of the Bear Lake. Of the river to the Westward he knew +nothing, but from the relation of others. This was the first night +since our departure from Athabasca, when it was sufficiently dark to +render the stars visible. + + +_Sunday, 2._--We set off at three this morning with the towing-line. +I walked with my Indians, as they went faster than the canoe, and +particularly as I suspected that they wanted to arrive at the huts of +the natives before me. In our way, I observed several small springs of +mineral water running from the foot of the mountain, and along the beach +I saw several lumps of iron ore. When we came to the river of the Bear +Lake, I ordered one of the young Indians to wait for my canoe, and I +took my place in their small canoe. This river is about two hundred and +fifty yards broad at this place, the water clear and of a greenish +colour. When I landed on the opposite shore, I discovered that the +natives had been there very lately from the print of their feet in the +sand. We continued walking till five in the afternoon, when we saw +several smokes along the shore. As we naturally concluded, that these +were certain indications where we should meet the natives who were the +objects of our search we quickened our pace; but, in our progress, +experienced a very sulphurous smell, and at length discovered that the +whole bank was on fire for a very considerable distance. It proved to +be a coal mine, to which the fire had communicated from an old Indian +encampment. The beach was covered with coals, and the English chief +gathered some of the softest he could find, as a black dye; it being the +mineral, as he informed me, with which the natives render their quills +black. + +Here we waited for the large canoe, which arrived an hour after us. At +half past ten we saw several Indian marks, which consisted of pieces of +bark fixed on poles, and pointing to the woods, opposite to which is an +old beaten road, that bore the marks of being lately frequented; the +beach also was covered with tracks. At a small distance were the poles +of five lodges standing; where we landed and unloaded our canoe. I then +despatched one of my men and two young Indians to see if they could find +any natives within a day's march of us. I wanted the English chief to +go, but he pleaded fatigue, and that it would be of no use. This was +the first time he had refused to comply with my desire, and jealousy, I +believe, was the cause of it in the present instance; though I had taken +every precaution that he should not have cause to be jealous of the +Canadians. There was not, at this time, the least appearance of snow on +the opposite mountains, though they were almost covered with it, when we +passed before. Set two nets, and at eleven o'clock at night the men and +Indians returned. They had been to their first encampment, where there +were four fires, and which had been quitted a short time before; so that +they were obliged to make the circuit of several small lakes, which the +natives cross with their canoes. This encampment was on the borders of +a lake which was too large for them to venture round it, so that they +did not proceed any further. They saw several beavers and beaver lodges +in those small lakes. They killed one of these animals whose fur began +to get long, a sure indication that the fall of the year approaches. +They also saw many old tracks of the moose and reindeer. This is the +time when the rein-deer leave the plains to come to the woods, as the +mosquitoes begin to disappear; I, therefore, apprehended that we should +not find a single Indian on the river side, as they would be in or about +the mountains setting snares to take them. + + +_Monday, 3._--We proceeded with a strong Westerly wind, at four this +morning, the weather being cloudy and cold. At twelve it cleared up and +became fine; the current also increased. The water had fallen so much +since our passage down the river, that here, as in other places, we +discovered many shoals which were not then visible. We killed several +geese of a larger size than those which we had generally seen. Several +Indian encampments were seen along the river, and we landed at eight for +the night. + + +_Tuesday, 4._--At four in the morning we renewed our course, when it +was fine and calm. The night had been cold and a very heavy dew had +fallen. At nine we were obliged to land in order to gum the canoe, when +the weather became extremely warm. Numerous tracks of rein-deer +appeared on the side of the river. At half past five we took our +station for the night, and set the nets. The current was very strong +all day, and we found it very difficult to walk along the beach, from +the large stones which were scattered over it. + + +_Wednesday, 5._--We raised our nets, but had not the good fortune to +take a single fish. The water was now become so low that the eddy +currents would not admit of setting them. The current had not relaxed +its strength; and the difficulty of walking along the beach was +continued. The air was now become so cold; that our exercise, violent +as it was, scarce kept us warm. We passed several points which we +should not have accomplished, if the canoe had been loaded. We were +very much fatigued, and at six were glad to conclude our toilsome march. +The Indians killed two geese. The women, who did not quit the canoe, +were continually employed in making shoes of moose-skin, for the men, as +a pair did not last more than a day. + + +_Thursday, 6._--The rain prevented us from proceeding till half past +six, when we had a strong aft wind, which, aided by the paddles, drove +us on at a great rate. We encamped at six to wait for our Indians, whom +we had not seen since the morning; and at half past seven they arrived +very much dissatisfied with their day's journey. Two days had now +elapsed since we had seen the least appearance of Indian habitations. + + +_Friday, 7._--We embarked at half past three, and soon after perceived +two rein-deer on the beach before us. We accordingly checked our +course; but our Indians, in contending who should be the first to get +near these animals, alarmed and lost them. We, however, killed a female +rein-deer, and from the wounds in her hind legs, it was supposed that +she had been pursued by wolves, who had devoured her young one: her +udder was full of milk, and one of the young Indians poured it among +some boiled corn, which he ate with great delight, esteeming it a very +delicious food. At five in the afternoon we saw an animal running along +the beach, but could not determine whether it was a grey fox or a dog. +In a short time, we went ashore for the night, at the entrance of a +small river, as I thought there might be some natives in the vicinity of +the place. I ordered my hunters to put their fusees in order, and gave +them ammunition to proceed on a hunting party the next day; they were +also instructed to discover if there were any natives in the +neighbouring mountains. I found a small canoe at the edge of the woods, +which contained a paddle and a bow: it had been repaired this spring, +and the workmanship of the bark excelled any that I had yet seen. We +saw several encampments in the course of the day. The current of the +river was very strong, and along the points equal to rapids. + + +_Saturday, 8._--The rain was very violent throughout the night, and +continued till the afternoon of this day, when the weather began to +clear, with a strong, cold, and Westerly wind. At three the Indians +proceeded on the hunting expedition, and at eight they returned without +having met with the least success; though they saw numerous tracks of +the rein-deer. They came to an old beaten road, which one of them +followed for some time; but it did not appear to have been lately +frequented. The rain now returned, and continued till the morning. + + +_Sunday, 9._--We renewed our voyage at half past three, the weather +being cold and cloudy; but at ten it became clear and moderate. We saw +another canoe at the outside of the wood, and one of the Indians killed +a dog, which was in a meagre, emaciated condition. We perceived various +places where the natives had made their fires; for these people reside +but a short time near the river, and remove from one bank to the other, +as it suits their purposes. We saw a path which was connected with +another on the opposite side of the river. The water had risen +considerably since last night, and there had been a strong current +throughout the day. At seven we made to the shore and encamped. + + +_Monday, 10._--At three this morning we returned to our canoe; the +weather fine and clear, with a light wind from the South-East. The +Indians were before us in pursuit of game. At ten we landed opposite to +the mountains which we had passed on the second of the last month, in +order to ascertain the variation of the compass at this place: but this +was accomplished in a very imperfect manner, as I could not depend on my +watch. One of the hunters joined us here, fatigued and unsuccessful. +As these mountains are the last of any considerable magnitude on the +South-West side of the river, I ordered my men to cross to that side of +it, that I might ascend one of them. It was near four in the afternoon +when I landed, and I lost no time in proceeding to the attainment of my +object. I was accompanied only by a young Indian, as the curiosity of +my people was subdued by the fatigue they had undergone; and we soon had +reason to believe that we should pay dearly for the indulgence of our +own. The wood, which was chiefly of spruce firs, was so thick that it +was with great difficulty we made our way through it. When we had +walked upwards of an hour, the under-wood decreased, while the white +birch and poplar were the largest and tallest of their kind that I had +ever seen. The ground now began to rise, and was covered with small +pines, and at length we got the first view of the mountains since we had +left the canoe; as they appeared to be no nearer to us, though we had +been walking for three hours, than when we had seen them from the river, +my companion expressed a very great anxiety to return; his shoes and +leggins were torn to pieces, and he was alarmed at the idea of passing +through such bad roads during the night. I persisted, however, in +proceeding, with a determination to pass the night on the mountains and +return on the morrow. As we approached them, the ground was quite +marshy, and we waded in water and grass up to the knees, till we came +within a mile of them, when I suddenly sunk up to my arm-pits, and it +was with some difficulty that I extricated myself from this disagreeable +situation. I now found it impossible to proceed; to cross this marshy +ground in a straight line was impracticable, and it extended so far to +the right and left, that I could not attempt to make the circuit; I +therefore determined to return to the canoe, and arrived there about +midnight, very much fatigued with this fruitless journey. + + +_Tuesday, 11._--We observed several tracks along the beach, and an +encampment at the edge of the woods, which appeared to be five or six +days old. We should have continued our route along this side of the +river, but we had not seen our hunters since yesterday morning. We +accordingly embarked before three, and at five traversed the river, when +we saw two of them coming down in search of us. They had killed no +other animals than one beaver, and a few hares. According to their +account, the woods were so thick that it was impossible to follow the +game through them. They had seen several of the natives' encampments, +at no great distance from the river and it was their opinion that they +had discovered us in our passage down it, and had taken care to avoid +us; which accounted for the small number we had seen on our return. + +I requested the English chief to return with me to the other side of the +river, in order that he might proceed to discover the natives, whose +tracks and habitations we had seen there; but he was backward in +complying with my desire, and proposed to send the young men; but I +could not trust to them, and at the same time was become rather doubtful +of him. They were still afraid lest I should obtain such accounts of +the other river as would induce me to travel overland to it, and that +they should be called upon to accompany me. I was, indeed, informed by +one of my own people, that the English chief, his wives and companions, +had determined to leave me on this side of the Slave Lake, in order to +go to the country of the Beaver Indians, and that about the middle of +the winter he would return to that lake, where he had appointed to meet +some of his relations, who, during the last spring, had been engaged in +war. + +We now traversed the river, and continued to track the Indians till past +twelve, when we lost all traces of them; in consequence, as we imagined, +of their having crossed to the Eastern side. We saw several dogs on +both shores; and one of the young Indians killed a wolf, which the men +ate with great satisfaction: we shot, also, fifteen young geese that +were now beginning to fly. It was eight when we took our evening +station, having lost four hours in making our traverses. There was no +interruption of the fine weather during the course of this day. + + +_Wednesday, 12._--We proceeded on our voyage at three this morning, +and despatched the two young Indians across the river, that we might not +miss any of the natives that should be on the banks of it. We saw many +places where fires had been lately made along the beach, as well as fire +running in the woods. At four we arrived at an encampment which had +been left this morning. Their tracks were observable in several places +in the woods, and as it might be presumed that they could not be at any +great distance, it was proposed to the chief to accompany me in search +of them. We accordingly, though with some hesitation on his part, +penetrated several miles into the woods, but without discovering the +objects of our research. The fire had spread all over the country, and +had burned about three inches of the black, light soil, which covered a +body of cold clay, that was so hard as not to receive the least +impression of our feet. At ten we returned from our unsuccessful +excursion. In the mean time the hunters had killed seven geese. There +were several showers of rain, accompanied with gusts of wind and +thunder. The nets had been set during our absence. + + +_Thursday, 13._--The nets were taken up, but not one fish was found in +them; and at half past three we continued our route, with very +favourable weather. We passed several places, where fires had been made +by the natives, and many tracks were perceptible along the beach. At +seven we were opposite the island where our pemmican had been concealed: +two of the Indians were accordingly despatched in search of it, and it +proved very acceptable, as it rendered us more independent of the +provisions which were to be obtained by our fowling pieces, and +qualified us to get out of the river without that delay which our +hunters would otherwise have required. In a short time we perceived a +smoke on the shore to the South-West, at the distance of three leagues, +which did not appear to proceed from any running fire. The Indians, who +were a little way ahead of us, did not discover it, being engaged in +the pursuit of a flock of geese, at which they fired several shots, when +the smoke immediately disappeared; and in a short time we saw several of +the natives run along the shore, some of whom entered their canoes. +Though we were almost opposite to them, we could not cross the river +without going further up it, from the strength of the current; I +therefore ordered our Indians to make every possible exertion, in order +to speak with them, and wait our arrival. But as soon as our small +canoe struck off, we could perceive the poor affrighted people hasten to +the shore, and after drawing their canoes on the beach, hurry into the +woods. It was past ten before we landed at the place where they had +deserted their canoes, which were four in number. They were so +terrified that they had left several articles on the beach. I was very +much displeased with my Indians, who instead of seeking the natives, +were dividing their property. I rebuked the English chief with some +severity for his conduct, and immediately ordered him, his young men, +and my own people, to go in search of the fugitives, but their fears had +made them too nimble for us, and we could not overtake them. We saw +several dogs in the woods, and some of them followed us to our canoe. + +The English chief was very much displeased at my reproaches, and +expressed himself to me in person to that effect. This was the very +opportunity which I wanted, to make him acquainted with my +dissatisfaction for some time past. I stated to him that I had come a +great way, and at a very considerable expense, without having completed +the object of my wishes, and that I suspected he had concealed from me a +principal part of what the natives had told him respecting the country, +lest he should be obliged to follow me: that his reason for not killing +game, &c., was his jealousy, which likewise prevented him from looking +after the natives as he ought; and that we had never given him any cause +for any suspicions of us. These suggestions irritated him in a very +high degree, and he accused me of speaking ill words to him; he denied +the charge of jealousy, and declared that he did not conceal any thing +from us; and that as to the ill success of their hunting, it arose from +the nature of the country, and the scarcity, which had hitherto +appeared, of animals in it. He concluded by informing me that he would +not accompany me any further: that though he was without ammunition, he +could live in the same manner as the slaves (the name given to the +inhabitants of that part of the country), and that he would remain among +them. His harangue was succeeded by a loud and bitter lamentation; and +his relations assisted the vociferations of his grief; though they said +that their tears flowed for their dead friends. I did not interrupt +their grief for two hours, but as I could not well do without them, I +was at length obliged to soothe it, and induce the chief to change his +resolution, which he did, but with great apparent reluctance when we +embarked as we had hitherto done. + +The articles which the fugitives had left behind them, on the present +occasion, were bows, arrows, snares for moose and rein-deer, and for +hares; to these may be added a few dishes, made of bark, some skins of +the marten and the beaver, and old beaver robes, with a small robe made +of the skin of the lynx. Their canoes were coarsely made of the bark of +the spruce-fir, and will carry two or three people. I ordered my men to +remove them to the shade, and gave most of the other articles to the +young Indians. The English chief would not accept of any of them. In +the place, and as the purchase of them, I left some cloth, some small +knives, a file, two fire-steels, a comb, rings, with beads and awls. I +also ordered a marten skin to be placed on a proper mould, and a beaver +skin to be stretched on a frame, to which I tied a scraper. The Indians +were of opinion that all these articles would be lost, as the natives +were so much frightened that they would never return. Here we lost six +hours; and on our quitting the place, three of the dogs which I have +already mentioned followed us along the beach. + +We pitched our tents at half past eight, at the entrance of the river of +the mountain; and while the people were unloading the canoe, I took a +walk along the beach, and on the shoals, which being uncovered since we +passed down, by the sinking of the waters, were now white with a saline +substance. I sent for the English chief to sup with me, and a dram or +two dispelled all his heart-burning and discontent. He informed me that +it was a custom with the Chepewyan chiefs to go to war after they had +shed tears, in order to wipe away the disgrace attached to such a +feminine weakness, and that in the ensuing spring he should not fail to +execute his design; at the same time he declared his intention to +continue with us as long as I should want him. I took care that he +should carry some liquid consolation to his lodge, to prevent the return +of his chagrin. The weather was fine, and the Indians killed three +geese. + + +_Friday, 14._--At a quarter before four this morning, we returned to +our canoe, and went about two miles up the river of the mountains. Fire +was in the ground on each side of it. In traversing, I took soundings, +and found five, four and an half, and three and an half fathoms water. +Its stream was very muddy, and formed a cloudy streak along the water of +the great river, on the West side to the Eastern rapid, where the waters +of the two rivers at length blend in one. It was impossible not to +consider it as an extraordinary circumstance, that the current of the +former river should not incorporate with that of the latter, but flow, +as it were, in distinct streams at so great a distance, and till the +contracted state of the channel unites them. We passed several +encampments of the natives, and a river which flowed in from the North, +that had the appearance of being navigable. We concluded our voyage of +this day at half past five in the afternoon. There were plenty of +berries, which my people called _poires:_ they are of a purple hue, +somewhat bigger than a pea, and of a luscious taste; there were also +gooseberries, and a few strawberries. + + +_Saturday, 15._--We continued our course from three in the morning +till half past five in the afternoon. We saw several encampments along +the beach, till it became too narrow to admit them; when the banks rose +into a considerable degree of elevation, and there were more eddy +currents. The Indians killed twelve geese, and berries were collected +in great abundance. The weather was sultry throughout the day. + + +_Sunday, 16._--We continued our voyage at a quarter before four, and +in five hours passed the place where we had been stationed on the 13th +of June. Here the river widened, and its shores became flat. The land +on the North side is low, composed of a black soil, mixed with stones, +but agreeably covered with the aspen, the poplar, the white birch, the +spruce-fir, &c. The current was so moderate, that we proceeded upon it +almost as fast as in dead water. At twelve we passed an encampment of +three fires, which was the only one we saw in the course of the day. +The weather was the same as yesterday. + + +_Monday, 17._--We proceeded at half past three; and saw three +successive encampments. From the peculiar structure of the huts, we +imagined that some of the Red-Knife Indians had been in this part of the +country, though it is not usual for them to come this way. I had last +night ordered the young Indians to precede us, for the purpose of +hunting, and at ten we overtook them. They had killed five young swans; +and the English chief presented us with an eagle, three cranes, a small +beaver, and two geese. We encamped at seven this evening on the same +spot which had been our resting-place on the 29th of June. + + +_Tuesday, 18._--At four this morning I equipped all the Indians for an +hunting excursion, and sent them onward, as our stock of provision was +nearly exhausted. We followed at half past six, and crossed over to the +North shore, where the land is low and scarcely visible in the horizon. +It was near twelve when we arrived. I now got an observation, when it +was 61. 33. North latitude. We were near five miles to the North of the +main channel of the river. The fresh tracks and beds of buffaloes were +very perceptible. + +Near this place a river flowed in from the Horn Mountains, which are at +no great distance. We landed at five in the afternoon, and before the +canoe was unloaded, the English chief arrived with the tongue of a cow, +or female buffalo, when four men and the Indians were despatched for the +flesh; but they did not return till it was dark. They informed me, that +they had seen several human tracks in the sand on the opposite island. +The fine weather continued without interruption. + + +_Wednesday, 19._--The Indians were again sent forward in pursuit of +game; and some time being employed in gumming the canoe, we did not +embark till half past five, and at nine we landed to wait the return of +the hunters. I here found the variation of the compass to be about +twenty degrees East. + +The people made themselves paddles and repaired the canoe. It is an +extraordinary circumstance for which I do not pretend to account, that +there is some peculiar quality in the water of this river, which +corrodes wood, from the destructive effect it had on the paddles. The +hunters arrived at a late hour, without having seen any large animals. +Their booty consisted only of three swans and as many geese. The women +were employed in gathering cranberries and crowberries, which were found +in great abundance. + + +_Thursday, 20._--We embarked at four o'clock, and took the North side +of the channel, though the current was on that side much stronger, in +order to take a view of the river, which had been mentioned to me in our +passage downwards, as flowing from the country of the Beaver Indians, +and which fell in hereabouts. We could not, however, discover it, and +it is probable that the account was referable to the river which we had +passed on Tuesday. The current was very strong, and we crossed over to +an island opposite to us; here it was still more impetuous, and assumed +the hurry of a rapid. We found an awl and a paddle on the side of the +water; the former we knew to belong to the Knisteneaux: I supposed it to +be the chief Merde-d'ours and his party, who went to war last spring, +and had taken this route on their return to Athabasca. Nor is it +improbable that they may have been the cause that we saw so few of the +natives on the banks of this river. The weather was raw and cloudy, and +formed a very unpleasant contrast to the warm, sunny days, which +immediately preceded it. We took up our abode for the night at half +past seven, on the Northern shore, where the adjacent country is both +low and flat. The Indians killed live young swans, and a beaver. There +was an appearance of rain. + + +_Friday, 21._--The weather was cold, with a strong Easterly wind and +frequent showers, so that we were detained in our station. In the +afternoon the Indians got on the track of a moose-deer, but were not so +fortunate as to overtake it. + + +_Saturday, 22._--The wind veered round to the Westward, and continued +to blow strong and cold. We, however, renewed our voyage, and in three +hours reached the entrance of the Slave Lake, under half sail; with the +paddle, it would have taken us at least eight hours. The Indians did +not arrive till four hours after us; but the wind was so violent, that +it was not expedient to venture into the lake; we therefore set a net, +and encamped for the night. The women gathered large quantities of the +fruit already mentioned, called Pathagomenan, and cranberries, +crowberries, mooseberries, &c. The Indians killed two swans and three +geese. + + +_Sunday, 23._--The net produced but five small pike, and at five we +embarked, and entered the lake by the same channel through which we had +passed from it. The South-West side would have been the shortest, but +we were not certain of there being plenty of fish along the coast, and +we were sure of finding abundance of them in the course we preferred. +Besides, I expected to find my people at the place where I left them, as +they had received orders to remain there till the fall. + +We paddled a long way into a deep bay to get the wind, and having left +our mast behind us, we landed to cut another. We then hoisted sail, and +were driven on at a great rate. At twelve the wind and swell were +augmented to such a degree, that our under yard broke, but luckily the +mast thwart resisted, till we had time to fasten down the yard with a +pole, without lowering sail. We took in a large quantity of water, and +had our mast given way, in all probability, we should have filled and +sunk. Our course continued to be very dangerous, along a flat +lee-shore, without being able to land till three in the afternoon. Two +men were continually employed in bailing out the water which we took in +on all sides. We fortunately doubled a point that screened us from the +wind and swell, and encamped for the night, in order to wait for our +Indians. We then set our nets, made a yard and mast, and gummed the +canoe. On visiting the nets, we found six white fish, and two pike. +The women gathered cranberries and crowberries in great plenty; and as +the night came on, the weather became more moderate. + + +_Monday, 24._--Our nets this morning produced fourteen white fish, ten +pikes, and a couple of trouts. At five we embarked with a light breeze +from the South, when we hoisted sail, and proceeded slowly, as our +Indians had not come up with us. At eleven we went on shore to prepare +the kettle, and dry the nets; at one we were again on the water. At +four in the afternoon, we perceived a large canoe with a sail, and two +small ones ahead; we soon came up with them, when they proved to be +M. Le Roux and an Indian, with his family, who were on a hunting party, +and had been out twenty-five days. It was his intention to have gone as +far as the river, to leave a letter for me, to inform me of his +situation. He had seen no more Indians where I had left him; but had +made a voyage to Lac la Marte, where he met eighteen small canoes of the +Slave Indians, from whom he obtained five pack of skins, which were +principally those of the marten. There were four Beaver Indians among +them, who had bartered the greatest part of the above mentioned articles +with them, before his arrival. They informed him that their relations +had more skins, but that they were afraid to venture with them, though +they had been informed that people were to come with goods to barter for +them. He gave these people a pair of ice chisels each, and other +articles, and sent them away to conduct their friends to the Slave Lake, +where he was to remain during the succeeding winter. + +We set three nets and in a short time caught twenty fish of different +kinds. In the dusk of the evening, the English chief arrived with a +most pitiful account that he had like to have been drowned in trying to +follow us; and that the other men had also a very narrow escape. Their +canoe, he said, had broken on the swell, at some distance from the +shore, but as it was flat, they had with his assistance been able to +save themselves. He added, that he left them lamenting, lest they +should not overtake me, if I did not wait for them; he also expressed +his apprehensions that they would not be able to repair their canoe. +This evening I gave my men some rum to cheer them after their fatigues. + + +_Tuesday, 25._--We rose this morning at a late hour, when we visited +the nets, which produced but few fish: my people, indeed, partook of the +stores of M. Le Roux. At eleven, the young Indians arrived, and +reproached me for having left them so far behind. They had killed two +swans, and brought me one of them. The wind was Southerly throughout +the day, and too strong for us to depart, as we were at the foot of a +grand traverse. At noon I had an observation, which gave 61. 29. North +latitude. Such was the state of the weather, that we could not visit +our nets. In the afternoon, the sky darkened, and there was lightning, +accompanied with loud claps of thunder. The wind also veered round to +the Westward, and blew a hurricane. + + +_Wednesday, 26._--It rained throughout the night, and till eight in +the morning, without any alteration in the wind. The Indians went on a +hunting excursion, but returned altogether without success in the +evening. One of them was so unfortunate as to miss a moose-deer. In +the afternoon there were heavy showers, with thunder, &c. + + +_Thursday, 27._--We embarked before four, and hoisted sail. At nine +we landed to dress victuals, and wait for M. Le Roux and the Indians. +At eleven, we proceeded with fine and calm weather. At four in the +afternoon, a light breeze sprang up to the Southward, to which we spread +our sail, and at half past five in the afternoon, went on shore for the +night. We then set our nets. The English chief and his people being +quite exhausted with fatigue, he this morning expressed his desire to +remain behind, in order to proceed to the country of the Beaver Indians, +engaging at the same time, that he would return to Athabasca in the +course of the winter. + + +_Friday, 28._--It blew very hard throughout the night, and this +morning, so that we found it a business of some difficulty to get to our +nets; our trouble, however, was repaid by a considerable quantity of +white fish, trout, &c. Towards the afternoon the wind increased. Two +of the men who had been gathering berries saw two moose-deer, with the +tracks of buffaloes and rein-deer. About sunset we heard two shots, and +saw a fire on the opposite side of the bay; we accordingly made a large +fire also, that our position might be determined. When we were all gone +to bed, we heard the report of a gun very near us, and in a very short +time the English chief presented himself drenched with wet, and in much +apparent confusion informed me that the canoe with his companions was +broken to pieces; and that they had lost their fowling pieces, and the +flesh of a rein-deer, which they had killed this morning. They were, he +said, at a very short distance from us; and at the same time requested +that fire might be sent to them, as they were starving with cold. They +and his women, however, soon joined us, and were immediately +accommodated with dry clothes. + + +_Saturday, 29._--I sent the Indians on an hunting party, but they +returned without success; and they expressed their determination not to +follow me any further, from their apprehension of being drowned. + + +_Sunday, 30._--We embarked at one this morning, and took from the nets +a large trout, and twenty white fish. At sunrise a smart aft breeze +sprang up, which wafted us to M. Le Roux's house by two in the +afternoon. It was late before he and our Indians arrived; when, +according to a promise which I had made the latter, I gave them a +plentiful equipment of iron ware, ammunition, tobacco, &c., as a +recompense for the toil and inconvenience they had sustained with me. + +I proposed to the English chief to proceed to the country of the Beaver +Indians, and bring them to dispose of their peltries to M. Le Roux, whom +I intended to leave there the ensuing winter. He had already engaged to +be at Athabasca, in the month of March next, with plenty of furs. + + +_Monday, 31._--I sat up all night to make the necessary arrangements +for the embarkation of this morning, and to prepare instructions for +M. Le Roux. We obtained some provisions here, and parted from him at +five, with fine calm weather. It soon, however, became necessary to +land on a small island, to stop the leakage of the canoe, which had been +occasioned by the shot of an arrow under the water mark, by some Indian +children. While this business was proceeding, we took the opportunity +of dressing some fish. At twelve, the wind sprang up from the +South-East, which was in the teeth of our direction, so that our +progress was greatly impeded. I had an observation, which gave +62. 15. North latitude. We landed at seven in the evening, and pitched +our tents. + + +_Tuesday, 1._--We continued our voyage at five in the morning, the +weather calm and fine, and passed the Isle a la Cache about twelve, but +could not perceive the land, which was seen in our former passage. On +passing the Carreboeuf Islands, at five in the afternoon, we saw land to +the South by West, which we thought was the opposite side of the lake, +stretching away to a great distance. We landed at half past six in the +evening, when there was thunder, and an appearance of change in the +weather. + + +_Wednesday, 2._--It rained and blew hard the latter part of the night. +At half past five the rain subsided, when we made a traverse of twelve +miles, and took in a good deal of water. At twelve it became calm, when +I had an observation, which gave 61. 36. North latitude. At three in +the afternoon, there was a slight breeze from the Westward which soon +increased, when we hoisted sail, and took a traverse of twenty-four +miles, for the point of the old Fort, where we arrived at seven, and +stopped for the night. This traverse shortened our way three leagues; +indeed we did not expect to have cleared the lake in such a short time. + + +_Thursday, 3._--It blew with great violence throughout the night, and +at four in the morning we embarked, when we did not make more than five +miles three hours, without stopping; notwithstanding we were sheltered +from the swell by a long bank. We now entered the small river, where +the wind could have no effect upon us. There were frequent showers in +the course of the day, and we encamped at six in the evening. + + +_Friday, 4._--The morning was dark and cloudy, nevertheless we +embarked at five; but at ten it cleared up. We saw a few fowl, and at +seven in the evening, went on shore for the night. + + +_Saturday, 5._--The weather continued to be cloudy. At five we +proceeded, and at eight it began to rain very hard. In about half an +hour we put to shore, and were detained for the remaining part of the +day. + + +_Sunday, 6._--It rained throughout the night, with a strong North +wind. Numerous flocks of wild fowl passed to the Southward; at six in +the afternoon, the rain, in some measure, subsided, and we embarked, but +it soon returned with renewed violence; we, nevertheless took the +advantage of an aft wind, though it cost us a complete drenching. The +hunters killed seven, geese, and we pitched our tents at half past six +in the evening. + + +_Monday, 7._--We were on the water at five this morning, with a head +wind, accompanied by successive showers. At three in the afternoon, we +ran the canoe on a stump, and it filled with water before she could be +got to land. Two hours were employed in repairing her, and at seven in +the evening, we took our station for the night. + + +_Tuesday, 8._--We renewed our voyage at half past four in a thick mist +which lasted till nine, when it cleared away, and fine weather +succeeded. At three in the afternoon we came to the first +carrying-place, _Portage des Noyes_, and encamped at the upper end of it +to dry our clothes, some of which were almost rotten. + + +_Wednesday, 9._--We embarked at five in the morning, and our canoe was +damaged on the men's shoulders, who were bearing it over the +carrying-place, called _Portage du Chetique_. The guide repaired her, +however, while the other men were employed in carrying the baggage. The +canoe was `gummed at the carrying-place named the _Portage de la +Montagne_. After having passed the carrying-places, we encamped at the +Dog River, at half past four in the afternoon, in a state of great +fatigue. The canoe was again gummed, and paddles were made to replace +those that had been broken in ascending the rapids. A swan was the only +animal we killed throughout the day. + + +_Thursday, 10._--There was rain and violent wind during the night: in +the morning the former subsided and the latter increased. At half past +five we continued our course with a North-Westerly wind. At seven we +hoisted sail: in the forenoon there were frequent showers of rain and +hail, and in the afternoon two showers of snow: the wind was at this +time very strong, and at six in the evening we landed at a lodge of +Knisteneaux, consisting of three men and five women and children. They +were on their return from war, and one of them was very sick: they +separated from the rest of their party in the enemy's country, from +absolute hunger. After this separation, they met with a family of the +hostile tribe, whom they destroyed. They were entirely ignorant of the +fate of their friends, but imagined that they had returned to the Peace +River, or had perished for want of food. I gave medicine to the +sick,[1] and a small portion of ammunition to the healthy; which, +indeed, they very much wanted, as they had entirely lived for the last +six months on the produce of their bows and arrows. They appeared to +have been great sufferers by their expedition. + + +_Friday, 11._--It froze hard during the night, and was very cold +throughout the day, with an appearance of snow. We embarked at half +past four in the morning, and continued our course till six in the +evening, when we landed for the night at our encampment of the third of +June. + + +_Saturday, 12._--The weather was cloudy, and also very cold. At +eight, we embarked with a North-East wind, and entered the Lake of the +Hills. About ten, the wind veered to the West-ward, and was as strong +as we could bear it with the high sail, so that we arrived at Chepewyan +fort by three o'clock in the afternoon, where we found Mr. Macleod, with +five men busily employed in building a new house. Here, then, we +concluded this voyage, which had occupied the considerable space of one +hundred and two days. + + +[1] This man had conceived an idea, that the people with whom he had +been at war, had thrown medicine at him, which had caused his present +complaint, and that he despaired of recovery. The natives are so +superstitious, that this idea alone was sufficient to kill him. Of this +weakness I took advantage; and assured him, that if he would never more +go to war with such poor defenceless people, I would cure him. To this +proposition he readily consented, and on my giving him medicine, which +consisted of Turlington's balsam, mixed in water, I declared that it +would lose its effect, if he was not sincere in the promise that he made +me. In short, he actually recovered, was true to his engagements, and +on all occasions manifested his gratitude to me. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +OCTOBER 10, 1792. + +Having made every necessary preparation, I left Fort Chepewyan, to +proceed up the Peace River, I had resolved to go as far as our most +distant settlement, which would occupy the remaining part of the season, +it being the route by which I proposed to attempt my next discovery, +across the mountains from the source of that river; for whatever +distance I could reach this fall, would be a proportionate advancement +of my voyage. + +In consequence of this design, I left the establishment of Fort +Chepewyan, in charge of Mr. Roderic Mackenzie, accompanied by two canoes +laden with the necessary articles for trade: we accordingly steered West +for one of the branches that communicates with the Peace River, called +the Pine River; at the entrance of which we waited for the other canoes, +in order to take some supplies from them, as I had reason to apprehend +they would not be able to keep up with us. We entered the Peace River +at seven in the morning of the 12th, taking a Westerly course. It is +evident, that all the land between it and the Lake of the Hills, as far +as the Elk River, is formed by the quantity of earth and mud, which is +carried down by the streams of those two great rivers. In this space +there are several lakes. The Lake Clear Water, which is the deepest, +Lake Vassieu, and the Athabasca Lake, which is the largest of the three, +and whose denomination in the Knisteneaux language implies, a flat, low, +swampy country, subject to inundations. The two last lakes are now so +shallow, that from the cause just mentioned, there is every reason to +expect, that in a few years they will have exchanged their character, +and become extensive forests. + +This country is so level, that, at some seasons, it is entirely +overflowed, which accounts for the periodical influx and reflux of the +waters between the Lake of the Hills and the Peace River. + +On the 13th at noon we came to the Peace Point; from which, according to +the report of my interpreter, the river derives its name; it was the +spot where the Knisteneaux and Beaver Indians settled their dispute; the +real name of the river and point being that of the land which was the +object of contention. + +When this country was formerly invaded by the Knisteneaux, they found +the Beaver Indians inhabiting the land about Portage la Loche; and the +adjoining tribe were those whom they called slaves. They drove both +these tribes before them; when the latter proceeded down the river from +the Lake of the Hills, in consequence of which that part of it obtained +the name of the Slave River. The former proceeded up the river; and +when the Knisteneaux made peace with them, this place was settled to be +the boundary. + +We continued our voyage, and I did not find the current so strong in +this river as I had been induced to believe, though this, perhaps, was +not the period to form a correct notion of that circumstance, as well as +of the breadth, the water being very low; so that the stream has not +appeared to me to be in any part that I have seen, more than a quarter +of a mile wide. + +The weather was cold and raw, so as to render our progress unpleasant; +at the same time we did not relax in our expedition, and, at three on +the afternoon of the 17th we arrived at the falls. The river at this +place is about four hundred yards broad, and the fall about twenty feet +high: the first carrying place is eight hundred paces in length, and the +last, which is about a mile onwards, is something more than two-thirds +of that distance. Here we found several fires, from which circumstance +we concluded, that the canoes destined for this quarter, which left the +fort some days before us, could not be far a-head. The weather +continued to be very cold, and the snow that fell during the night was +several inches deep. + +On the morning of the 18th, as soon as we got out of the draught of the +fall, the wind being at North-East, and strong in our favour, we hoisted +sail, which carried us on at a considerable rate against the current, +and passed the Loon River before twelve o'clock; from thence we soon +came along the Grande Isle, at the upper end of which we encamped for +the night. It now froze very hard: indeed, it had so much the +appearance of winter, that I began to entertain some alarm lest we might +be stopped by the ice: we therefore set off at three o'clock in the +morning of the 19th, and about eight we landed at the Old Establishment. + +The passage to this place from Athabasca having been surveyed by +M. Vandrieul, formerly in the Company's service, I did not think it +necessary to give any particular attention to it; I shall, however, just +observe, that the course in general from the Lake of the Hills to the +falls, is Westerly, and as much to the North as the South of it, from +thence it is about West-South-West to this fort. + +The country in general is low from our entrance of the river to the +falls, and with the exception of a few open parts covered with grass, it +is clothed with wood. Where the banks are very low the soil is good, +being composed of the sediment of the river and putrefied leaves and +vegetables. Where they are more elevated, they display a face of +yellowish clay, mixed with small stones. On a line with the falls, and +on either side of the river, there are said to be very extensive plains, +which afford pasture to numerous herds of buffaloes Our people a-head +slept here last night, and, from their carelessness, the fire was +communicated to and burned down, the large house, and was proceeding +fast to the smaller buildings when we arrived to extinguish it. + +We continued our voyage, the course of the river being South-West by +West one mile and a quarter, South by East one mile, South-West by South +three miles, West by South one mile, South-South-West two miles, South +four miles, South-West seven miles and a half, South by West one mile, +North-North-West two miles and a half, South five miles and a quarter, +South-West one mile and a half, North-East by East three miles and a +half, and South-East by East one mile. + +We overtook Mr. Finlay, with his canoes, who was encamped near the fort +of which he was going to take the charge, during the ensuing winter, and +made every necessary preparative for a becoming appearance on our +arrival the following morning. Although I had been since the year 1787, +in the Athabasca country, I had never yet seen a single native of that +part of it which we had now reached. + +At six o'clock in the morning of the 20th, we landed before the house +amidst the rejoicing and firing of the people, who were animated with +the prospect of again indulging themselves in the luxury of rum, of +which they had been deprived since the beginning of May; as it is a +practice throughout the North-West neither to sell or give any rum to +the natives during the summer. There was at this time only one chief +with his people, the other two being hourly expected with their bands; +and on the 21st and 22d they all arrived except the war chief and +fifteen men. As they very soon expressed their desire of the expected +regale, I called them together, to the number of forty-two hunters, or +men capable of bearing arms, to offer some advice, which would be +equally advantageous to them and to us, and I strengthened my admonition +with a nine gallon cask of reduced rum, and a quantity of tobacco. At +the same time I observed, that as I should not often visit them, I had +instanced a greater degree of liberality than they had been accustomed +to. + +The number of people belonging to this establishment amounts to about +three hundred, of which, sixty are hunters. Although they appear from +their language to be of the same stock as the Chepewyans, they differ +from them in appearance, manners, and customs, as they have adopted +those of their former enemies, the Knisteneaux; they speak their +language, as well as cut their hair, paint, and dress like them, and +possess their immoderate fondness for liquor and tobacco. This +description, however, can be applied only to the men, as the women are +less adorned even than those of the Chepewyan tribes. We could not +observe, without some degree of surprize, the contrast between the neat +and decent appearance of the men, and the nastiness of the women. I am +disposed, however, to think, that this circumstance is generally owing +to the extreme submission and abasement of the latter: for I observed, +that one of the chiefs allowed two of his wives more liberty and +familiarity than were accorded to the others, as well as a more becoming +exterior, and their appearance was proportionably pleasing; I shall, +however, take a future opportunity to speak more at large on this +subject. + +There were frequent changes of the weather in the course of the day, and +it froze rather hard in the night. The thickness of the ice in the +morning was a sufficient notice for me to proceed. I accordingly gave +the natives such good counsel as might influence their behaviour, +communicated my directions to Mr. Findlay for his future conduct, and +took my leave under several vollies of musketry, on the morning of the +23d. I had already dispatched my loaded canoes two days before, with +directions to continue their progress without waiting for me. Our +course was South-South-East one mile and an half, South three quarters; +East seven miles and a half, veering gradually to the West four miles +and an half, South-East by South three miles, South-East three miles and +an half, East-South-East to Long Point three miles, South-West one mile +and a quarter, East by North four miles and three quarters, West three +miles and an half, West-South-West one mile, East by South five miles +and a half, South three miles and three quarters, South-East by South +three miles, East-South-East three miles, East-North-East one mile, when +there was a river that flowed in on the right, East two miles and an +half, East-South-East half a mile, South-East by South seven miles and +an half, South two miles, South-South-East three miles and an half; in +the course of which we passed an island South by West, where a rivulet +flowed in on the right, one mile, East one mile and an half, South five +miles, South-East by South four miles and an half, South-West one mile, +South-East by East four miles and an half, West-South-West half a mile, +South-West six miles and three quarters, South-East by South one mile +and an half, South one mile and an half; South-East by South two miles, +South-West three quarters of a mile, South-East by South two miles and +an half, East by South one mile and three quarters, South two miles, +South-East one mile and an half, South-South-East half a mile, East by +South two miles and an half, North-East three miles, South-West by West +short distance to the establishment of last year, East-North-East four +miles, South-South-East one mile and three quarters, South half a mile, +South-East by South three quarters of a mile, North-East by East one +mile, South three miles, South-South-East one mile and three quarters, +South by East four miles and an half, South-West three miles, South by +East two miles, South by West one mile and an half, South-West two +miles, South by West four miles and an half, South-West one mile and an +half, and South by East three miles. Here we arrived at the forks of +the river; the Eastern branch appearing to be not more than half the +size of the Western one. We pursued the latter, in a course South-West +by West six miles, and landed on the first of November at the place +which was designed to be my winter residence: indeed, the weather had +been so cold and disagreeable, that I was more than once apprehensive of +our being stopped by the ice, and, after all, it required the utmost +exertions of which my men were capable to prevent it; so that on their +arrival they were quite exhausted. Nor were their labours at an end, +for there was not a single hut to receive us: it was, however, now in my +power to feed and sustain them in a more comfortable manner. + +We found two men here who had been sent forward last spring, for the +purpose of squaring timber for the erection of a house, and cutting +pallisades, &c., to surround it. With them was the principal chief of +the place, and about seventy men, who had been anxiously waiting for our +arrival, and received us with every mark of satisfaction and regard +which they could express. If we might judge from the quantity of powder +that was wasted on our arrival, they certainly had not been in want of +ammunition, at least during the summer. + +The banks of the river, from the falls, are in general lofty, except at +low woody points, accidentally formed in the manner I have already +mentioned: they also displayed, in all their broken parts, a face of +clay, intermixed with stone; in some places there likewise appeared a +black mould. + +In the summer of 1788, a small spot was cleared at the Old +Establishment, which is situated on a bank thirty feet above the level +of the river, and was sown with turnips, carrots, and parsnips. The +first grew to a large size, and the others thrived very well. An +experiment was also made with potatoes and cabbage, the former of which +were successful; but for want of care the latter failed. The next +winter the person who had undertaken this cultivation, suffered the +potatoes which had been collected for seed, to catch the frost, and none +had been since brought to this place. There is not the least doubt but +the soil would be very productive, if a proper attention was given to +its preparation. In the fall of the year 1787, when I first arrived at +Athabasca, Mr. Pond was settled on the banks of the Elk River, where he +remained for three years, and had formed as fine a kitchen garden as I +ever saw in Canada. + +In addition to the wood which flourished below the fall, these banks +produce the cypress tree, arrow-wood, and the thorn. On either side of +the river, though invisible from it, are extensive plains, which abound +in buffaloes, elks, wolves, foxes, and bears. At a considerable +distance to the Westward, is an immense ridge of high land or mountains, +which take an oblique direction from below the falls, and are inhabited +by great numbers of deer, which are seldom disturbed, but when the +Indians go to hunt the beaver in those parts; and, being tired with the +flesh of the latter, vary their food with that of the former. This +ridge bears the name of the Deer Mountain. Opposite to our present +situation, are beautiful meadows, with various animals grazing on them, +and groves of poplars irregularly scattered over them. + +My tent was no sooner pitched, than I summoned the Indians together, and +gave each of them about four inches of Brazil tobacco, a dram of +spirits, and lighted the pipe. As they had been very troublesome to my +predecessor, I informed them that I had heard of their misconduct, and +was come among them to inquire into the truth of it. I added also that +it would be an established rule with me to treat them with kindness, if +their behaviour should be such as to deserve it; but, at the same time, +that I should be equally severe if they failed in those returns which I +had a right to expect from them. I then presented them with a quantity +of rum, which I recommended to be used with discretion; and added some +tobacco, as a token of peace. They, in return, made me the fairest +promises; and having expressed the pride they felt on beholding me in +their country, took their leave. + +I now proceeded to examine my situation; and it was with great +satisfaction I observed that the two men who had been sent hither some +time before us, to cut and square timber for our future operations, had +employed the intervening period with activity and skill. They had +formed a sufficient quantity of pallisades of eighteen feet long, and +seven inches in diameter, to inclose a square spot of an hundred and +twenty feet; they had also dug a ditch of three feet deep to receive +them; and had prepared timber, planks, &c., for the erection of a house. + +I was, however, so much occupied in settling matters with the Indians, +and equipping them for their winter hunting, that I could not give my +attention to any other object, till the 7th, when I set all hands at +work to construct the fort, build the house, and form store houses. On +the preceding day the river began to run with ice, which we call the +last of the navigation. On the 11th we had a South-West wind, with +snow. On the 16th, the ice stopped in the other fork, which was not +above a league from us, across the intervening neck of land. The water +in this branch continued to flow till the 22d, when it was arrested also +by the frost, so that we had a passage across the river, which would +last to the latter end of the succeeding April. This was a fortunate +circumstance, as we depended for our support upon what the hunters could +provide for us, and they had been prevented by the running of the ice +from crossing the river. They now, however, very shortly procured us as +much fresh meat as we required, though it was for some time a toilsome +business to my people, for as there was not yet a sufficient quantity of +snow to run sledges, they were under the necessity of loading themselves +with the spoils of the chase. + +On the 27th the frost was so severe that the axes of the workmen became +almost as brittle as glass. The weather was very various until the 2d +of December, when my Farenheit's thermometer was injured by an accident, +which rendered it altogether useless. The table on page 353, therefore, +from the 16th of November, to this unfortunate circumstance, is the only +correct account of the weather which I can offer. + +[Transcriber's Note: The table referenced in the preceding paragraph +follows immediately below.] + + +Month|Date|Hours|Below|Above|Wind|Weather||Hour|Below|Above|Wind|Weather||Hour|Below|Above|Wind|Weather|| + and | |A.M. | 0 | 0 | | || | 0 | 0 | | ||P.M.| 0 | | | || +year | | | | | | || | | | | || | | | | || +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- +1792 | | | | | | || | | | | || | | | | || +Nov. |16 | 8½ | ... | 10 |....| || 12 | 0 | 14 |....| || 6 | .. | 15 |....|Cloudy.|| + |17 | 8½ | ... | 17 |....|Clear. || 12 | .. | 20 |... |Clear. || 6 | .. | 23 |....|ditto. || + |18 | 9 | ... | 19 |ESE | || 12 | .. | 21 |ESE | || 6 | .. | 14 |ESE |Clear. || + |19 | 8 | ... | 5 |NW | || 12 | .. | 12 |NW | || 6 | .. | 9 |NW |ditto. ||Strong wind + |20 | 8½ | ... | 4 |... |ditto. || 12 | .. | 14 |....|ditto. || 6 | .. | 19 |....|Cloudy.||At 10 last night 1 below 0 + |21 | 8 | ... | 19 |... | || 12 | .. | 25 |....| || 6 | .. | 23 |....|...... ||River stopped. + |22 | 9 | ... | 27 |... |Cloudy.|| 12 | .. | 29 |....|Cloudy.|| 6 | .. | 28 |....|Cloudy ||Ice drove and water rises. + |23 | 8½ | ... | 2 |N |Clear. || 12 | .. | 23 |....|Clear. || 6 | .. | 15 |N |...... ||Ice drove again. + |24 | 8 | 3 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | 0 | 0 |NE | || 6 | 1 | .. |NE |Cloudy.|| + |25 | 8 | 14 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | 4 | .. |....| || 6 | 2 | .. |....|Clear. ||Snowed last night 2 inches. + |26 | 9 | 10 | .. |N |ditto. || 12 | .. | 2 |N | || 6 | 0 | 0 |N |ditto. || + |27 | 8 | 2 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | 3 | 2 |....| || 6 | .. | 1 |SW |ditto. || + |28 | 8 | 16 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | .. | .. |....| || 6 | 7 | .. |S |ditto. ||After dark, overcast. + |29 | 7½ | ... | 4 |... |Cloudy.|| 12 | .. | 13 |....| || 6 | .. | 7 |....|ditto. ||Ditto, a little wind S. W. + |30 | 9 | ... | 4 |S | || 12 | .. | 13 |S |Cloudy.|| 6 | .. | 16 |S |Cloudy.|| + Dec.| 1 | 9 | ... | 0 |... | || 12 | | 19 |SE | || 5 | .. | 24 |SE |ditto. ||Fell 3 inches snow last night. + | 2 | 9 | ... | 27 |E | || | | | | || 5 | | | | || + + + +In this situation, removed from all those ready aids which add so much +to the comfort, and, indeed is a principal characteristic of civilized +life, I was under the necessity of employing my judgment and experience +in accessory circumstances by no means connected with the habits of my +life, or the enterprise in which I was immediately engaged. I was now +among the people who had no knowledge whatever of remediable application +to those disorders and accidents to which man is liable in every part of +the globe, in the distant wilderness, as in the peopled city. They had +not the least acquaintance with that primitive medicine, which consists +in an experience of the healing virtues of herbs and plants, and is +frequently found among uncivilised and savage nations. This +circumstance now obliged me to be their physician and surgeon, as a +woman with a swelled breast, which had been lacerated with flint stones +for the cure of it, presented herself to my attention, and by +cleanliness, poultices, and healing salve, I succeeded in producing a +cure. One of my people, also, who was at work in the woods, was +attacked with a sudden pain near the first joint of his thumb, which +disabled him from holding an axe. On examining his arm, I was +astonished to find a narrow red stripe, about half an inch wide, from +his thumb to his shoulder; the pain was violent, and accompanied with +chilliness and shivering. This was a case that appeared to be beyond my +skill, but it was necessary to do something towards relieving the mind +of the patient, though I might be unsuccessful in removing his +complaint. I accordingly prepared a kind of volatile liniment of rum +and soap, with which I ordered his arm to be rubbed, but with little or +no effect. He was in a raving state throughout the night, and the red +stripe not only increased, but was also accompanied with the appearance +of several blotches on his body, and pains in his stomach; the propriety +of taking some blood from him now occurred to and I ventured, from +absolute necessity, to perform that operation for the first time, and +with an effect that justified the treatment. The following night +afforded him rest, and in a short time he regained his former health and +activity. + +I was very much surprised on walking in the woods at such an inclement +period of the year, to be saluted with the singing of birds, while they +seemed by their vivacity to be actuated by the invigorating power of a +more genial season. Of these birds the male was something less than the +robin; part of his body is of a delicate fawn colour, and his neck, +breast, and belly, of a deep scarlet; the wings are black, edged with +fawn colour, and two white stripes running across them; the tail is +variegated, and the head crowned with a tuft. The female is smaller +than the male, and of a fawn colour throughout, except on the neck, +which is enlivened by an hue of glossy yellow. I have no doubt but they +are constant inhabitants of this climate, as well as some other small +birds which we saw, of a grey colour. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages from Montreal Through the +Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793, by Alexander Mackenzie + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL I *** + +***** This file should be named 35658-8.txt or 35658-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/6/5/35658/ + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793 + Vol. I + +Author: Alexander Mackenzie + +Release Date: March 22, 2011 [EBook #35658] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL I *** + + + + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + + + + + +</pre> + +<hr width="80%"> +<br><br> +<center> <h2> MACKENZIE'S VOYAGES</H2> </CENTER> +<br><br> +<hr width="80%"> +<div align="center"> <img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" +alt="Portrait of MacKenzie" width="50%"> +<br><br> +ALEXANDER MACKENZIE Esq<sup>r</sup> +<br><br> +<hr width="80%"> +</div> + + + +<div align="center"> +<h2 style="color:red">VOYAGES <i>from</i> MONTREAL<br> +THROUGH THE CONTINENT <i>of</i> NORTH AMERICA<br></h2> +<h2>TO THE<br> +FROZEN <i>and</i> PACIFIC OCEANS<br> +IN 1789 <i>and</i> 1793<br> +<br> +</h2> +<h3> +WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE RISE <br> +AND STATE OF THE FUR TRADE<br> +<br> +<i>By</i><br> +<br></h3> +<h3 style="color:red"> ALEXANDER MACKENZIE</h3><br> +<br> +<h3><i>WITH MAP</i><br> +<br> +IN TWO VOLUMES<br> +<br> +VOL. I.<br> +<br> +</h3> +NEW YORK<br> +<div style="color:red">A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY</div> +1903 + +</div> +<br> +<br> +<hr align="center" width="80%"> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<div align="center">Registered at the <br> +<i>Library of Congress, August, 1902</i><br> +A. S. BARNES & COMPANY +</div> + + +<br> + +<br> +<br> +<hr align="center" width="80%"> +<br> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="piii"></A>iii}</SPAN> + +<center><h3>Introduction.</h3></center> + +<p>The exact date of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's birth is not accurately +known, although it is supposed he was born at Inverness, Scotland, about +1755. He came to North America at an early age and obtained employment +in the counting-house of Messrs. Gregory and Co., a connexion of the +North-West Fur Company. It was while he was with this company that he +obtained the experience and knowledge necessary to his profession of a +fur-trader, long before he undertook his arduous and dangerous +expeditions to the far North. He was soon to distinguish himself. His +firm gave him a small venture to Detroit on condition that he penetrate +to the back country, which was then almost entirely unexplored, and open +up trade with the Indians. He carried out his task in his usual +thorough manner, but not without a severe struggle with a party of +European traders, who had already obtained a foothold on the margin of +this district, and who resented any interference with their monopoly by +outside parties. However, finally the intruders were permitted to +remain and share in the trade with the first comers. For many years +after <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="piv"></A>iv}</SPAN> this, Mr. +Mackenzie was occupied in trading and exploring in +various parts of the continent, but of these operations we have, +unfortunately, little or no record. After the amalgamation of the +North-West Company with the older Hudson's-Bay Company, Mr. Mackenzie +appears to have resided in Canada, where he became a member of the +provincial parliament, representing Huntingdon County. He married in +1812, and afterwards bought an estate at Avoch, Ross-shire, Scotland, +where he resided until his death in March, 1820.</p> + +<p>It is as an explorer of the vast and lonely wilds of the North that +Mackenzie's fame chiefly rests. The bravery and hardihood which carried +him thousands of miles over the prairie and muskegs of the illimitable +plains, down the rapids of great unknown rivers, over the ranges of +almost impassable mountains, will always command the admiration of all +who care for noble deeds. With a small party of Canadian +<i>voyageurs</i> and Indians, in birch-bark canoes, Mr. Mackenzie +started to explore the unknown regions of the North. Skirting the Great +Slave Lake, he finally entered the Mackenzie River, and then began that +long, deep plunge into the wilderness, which lasted many months, until +he finally emerged on the shores of the Arctic Ocean, in +Latitude <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pv"></A>v}</SPAN> 69. North. +Here he set up a post with his name and date of visit. The return +voyage was fraught with many dangers and vicissitudes, but he finally +arrived safely at Fort Chippewayan in September, 1789.</p> + +<p>Mr. Mackenzie's next expedition was even more dangerous and difficult +than the former. He started from Fort Chippewayan on the 10th of July, +1792, with the object of reaching the Pacific Coast, an enterprise never +before attempted by a European. After more than nine months of perilous +travel he achieved his ambition and reached the Great Western Ocean near +Cape Menzies on the 22nd June, 1793. He is said to have inscribed on +the face of a rock the date of his visit, and here it was that he was +nearly murdered by the natives before setting out on his return.</p> + +<p>The results of Mr. Mackenzie's voyages to the far North have not been +meagre. The opening of the territory to the west of the Rocky +Mountains, followed quickly after; and the great Hudson's-Bay Company +immediately started to stud the whole northern country with small +trading posts, whence have been drawn since incalculable riches in the +furs of the North.</p> + +<p>All this is easy enough to write down, but the tale is still far from +being told in full. What of the long days of gloom and +<SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="pvi"></A>vi}</SPAN> loneliness, days of +peril and uncertainty, days when hope had almost reached the vanishing +point? Who shall speak? It is a fascinating record which has placed the +name of this indomitable Scotchman beside the names of the world's +greatest explorers.</p> + +<p style=text-align:right>ROBERT WAITE.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pvii"></A>vii}</SPAN> + +<center><h3>Preface.</h3></center> + +<p>On presenting this Volume to my Country, it is not necessary to enter +into a particular account of those voyages whose journals form the +principal part of it, as they will be found, I trust, to explain +themselves. It appears, however, to be a duty, which the Public have a +right to expect from me, to state the reasons which have influenced me +in delaying the publication of them.</p> + +<p>It has been asserted, that a misunderstanding between a person high in +office and myself, was the cause of this procrastination. It has also +been propagated, that it was occasioned by that precaution which the +policy of commerce will sometimes suggest; but they are both equally +devoid of foundation. The one is an idle tale; and there could be no +solid reason for concealing the circumstances of discoveries, whose +arrangements and prosecution were so honourable to my associates and +myself, at whose expense they were undertaken. The delay actually arose +from the very active and busy mode of life in which I was engaged since +the voyages have been completed; and when, at length, the opportunity +arrived, the apprehension of<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pviii"></A>viii}</SPAN> presenting myself to the Public in the +character of an Author, for which the courses and occupations of my life +have by no means qualified me, made me hesitate in committing my papers +to the Press; being much better calculated to perform the voyages, +arduous as they might be, than to write an account of them. However, +they are now offered to the Public with the submission that becomes me.</p> + +<p>I was led, at an early period of life, by commercial views, to the +country North-West of Lake Superior, in North America, and being endowed +by Nature with an inquisitive mind and enterprising spirit; possessing +also a constitution and frame of body equal to the most arduous +undertakings, and being familiar with toilsome exertions in the +prosecution of mercantile pursuits, I not only contemplated the +practicability of penetrating across the continent of America, but was +confident in the qualifications, as I was animated by the desire, to +undertake the perilous enterprise.</p> + +<p>The general utility of such a discovery, has been universally +acknowledged; while the wishes of my particular friends and commercial +associates, that I should proceed in the pursuit of it, contributed to +quicken the execution of this favourite project of my own ambition: and +as the completion of it extends the boundaries of geographic science, +and adds new countries to the realms of British +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pix"></A>ix}</SPAN> commerce, the +dangers I have encountered, and the toils I have suffered, have found their +recompence; nor will the many tedious and weary days, or the gloomy and +inclement nights which I have passed, have been passed in vain.</p> + +<p>The first voyage has settled the dubious point of a practicable +North-West passage; and I trust it has set that long agitated question +at rest, and extinguished the disputes respecting it for ever. An +enlarged discussion of that subject will be found to occupy the +concluding pages of this volume.</p> + +<p>In this voyage, I was not only without the necessary books and +instruments, but also felt myself deficient in the sciences of astronomy +and navigation; I did not hesitate, therefore, to undertake a winter's +voyage to this country, in order to procure the one, and acquire the +other. These objects being accomplished, I returned, to determine the +practicability of a commercial communication through the continent of +North America, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, which is proved +by my second journal. Nor do I hesitate to declare my decided opinion, +that very great and essential advantages may be derived by extending our +trade from one sea to the other.</p> + +<p>Some account of the fur trade of Canada from that country, of the native +inhabitants,<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="px"></A>x}</SPAN> and of +the extensive districts connected with it, forms a +preliminary discourse, which will, I trust, prove interesting to a +nation, whose general policy is blended with, and whose prosperity is +supported by, the pursuits of commerce. It will also qualify the reader +to pursue the succeeding voyages with superior intelligence and +satisfaction.</p> + +<p>These voyages will not, I fear, afford the variety that may be expected +from them; and that which they offered to the eye, is not of a nature to +be effectually transferred to the page. Mountains and valleys, the +dreary waste, and the wide-spreading forests, the lakes and rivers +succeed each other in general description; and, except on the coasts of +the Pacific Ocean, where the villages were permanent, and the +inhabitants in a great measure stationary, small bands of wandering +Indians are the only people whom I shall introduce to the acquaintance +of my readers.</p> + +<p>The beaver and the buffalo, the moose-deer and the elk, which are the +principal animals to be found in these countries, are already so +familiar to the naturalists of Europe, and have been so often as well as +correctly described in their works, that the bare mention of them, as +they enlivened the landscape, or were hunted for food; with a cursory +account of the soil, the course and navigation of lakes and rivers, and +their various produce, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxi"></A>xi}</SPAN> +is all that can be reasonably expected from me.</p> + +<p>I do not possess the science of the naturalist; and even if the +qualifications of that character had been attained by me, its curious +spirit would not have been gratified. I could not stop to dig into the +earth, over whose surface I was compelled to pass with rapid steps; nor +could I turn aside to collect the plants which nature might have +scattered on the way, when my thoughts were anxiously employed in making +provision for the day that was passing over me. I had to encounter +perils by land and perils by water; to watch the savage who was our +guide, or to guard against those of his tribe who might meditate our +destruction. I had, also, the passions and fears of others to control +and subdue. To-day, I had to assuage the rising discontents, and on the +morrow, to cheer the fainting spirits of the people who accompanied me. +The toil of our navigation was incessant, and oftentimes extreme; and in +our progress over land, we had no protection from the severity of the +elements, and possessed no accommodations or conveniences but such as +could be contained in the burden on our shoulders, which aggravated the +toils of our march, and added to the wearisomeness of our way.</p> + +<p>Though the events which compose my +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxii"></A>xii}</SPAN> journals may have +little in themselves to strike the imagination of those who love to be +astonished, or to gratify the curiosity of such as are enamoured of +romantic adventures; nevertheless, when it is considered, that I +explored those waters which had never before borne any other vessel than +the canoe of the savage; and traversed those deserts where an European +had never before presented himself to the eye of its swarthy natives; +when to these considerations are added the important objects which were +pursued, with the dangers that were encountered, and the difficulties +that were surmounted to attain them, this work will, I flatter myself, +be found to excite an interest, and conciliate regard, in the minds of +those who peruse it.</p> + +<p>The general map which illustrates this volume, is reduced by +Mr. Arrowsmith from his three-sheet map of North America, with the +latest discoveries, which he is about to republish. His professional +abilities are well known, and no encomium of mine will advance the +general and merited opinion of them.</p> + +<p>Before I conclude, I must beg leave to inform my readers, that they are +not to expect the charms of embellished narrative, or animated +description; the approbation due to simplicity and to truth, is all I +presume to claim; and I am not without the hope that this claim will be +allowed me. I have <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxiii"></A>xiii}</SPAN> +described whatever I saw with the impressions of the +moment which presented it to me. The successive circumstances of my +progress are related without exaggeration or display. I have seldom +allowed myself to wander into conjecture; and whenever conjecture has +been indulged, it will be found, I trust, to be accompanied with the +temper of a man who is not disposed to think too highly of himself: and +if, at any time, I have delivered myself with confidence, it will +appear, I hope, to be on those subjects, which, from the habits and +experience of my life, will justify an unreserved communication of my +opinions. I am not a candidate for literary fame; at the same time, I +cannot but indulge the hope that this volume, with all its +imperfections, will not be thought unworthy the attention of the +scientific geographer; and that, by unfolding countries hitherto +unexplored, and which, I presume, may now be considered as a part of the +British dominions, it will be received as a faithful tribute to the +prosperity of my country.</p> + +<p style=text-align:center>ALEXANDER MACKENZIE.</p> + +<p>London,<br> +November 30, 1801.</p> + +<p></p> + +<br> +<br> + +<div> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxv"></A>xv}</SPAN> +<center><h3>Table of Contents.</h3></center> + +<table align=center width="80%"> +<tr><td> +<center> +<h4><a name="toc_chapter1" href="#chapter1">CHAPTER I.</a></h4> +</center> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td>Embarked at Fort Chepewyan, on the Lake of the Hills, in company + with M. Le Roux. Account of the party, provisions, etc. Direction of + the course. Enter one of the branches of the Lake. Arrive in the + Peace River. Appearance of the land. Navigation of the river. + Arrive at the mouth of the Dog River. Successive description of + several carrying places. A canoe lost in one of the Falls. Encamp on + Point de Roche. Course continued. Set the nets, etc. Arrive at the + Slave Lake. The weather extremely cold. Banks of the river + described, with its trees, soil, etc. Account of the animal + productions, and the fishery of the Lake. Obliged to wait till the + moving of the ice. Three families of Indians arrive from Athabasca, + Beavers, geese, and swans killed. The nets endangered by ice. + Re-embark and land on a small island. Course continued along the + shores, and across the bays of the Lake. Various successes of the + hunters. Steer for an island where there was plenty of cranberries + and small onions. Kill several reindeer. Land on an island named + Isle a la Cache. Clouds of mosquitoes. +<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p193">193</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td><center> +<h4><a name="toc_chapter2" href="#chapter2">CHAPTER II.</a></h4></center> +</td></tr> +<tr><td>Landed at some lodges of Red-Knife Indians: procure one of them + to assist in navigating the bays Conference with the Indians. Take + leave of M. + <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxvi"></A>xvi}</SPAN> Le Roux, and + continue the voyage. Different appearances of the land; its vegetable + produce. Visit an island where the wood had been felled. Further + description of the coast. Plenty of rein and moose-deer, and white + partridges. Enter a very deep bay. Interrupted by ice. Very blowing + weather, Continue to cross the bay. Arrive at the mouth of a river. + Great numbers of fish and wild-fowl. Description of the land on + either side. Curious appearance of woods that had been burned. Came + in sight of the Horn Mountain. Continue to kill geese and swans, etc. + Violent storm. +<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p211">211</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr> +<td> +<center> +<h4><a name="toc_chapter3" href="#chapter3">CHAPTER III.</a> +</h4> +</center> +</td></tr> +<tr><td>Continued our course. The river narrows. Lost the lead. + Passed a small river. Violent rain. Land on a small island. Expect + to arrive at the rapid. Conceal two bags of pemmican in an island. A + view of mountains. Pass several encampments of the natives. Arrive + among the islands. Ascend a high hill. Violence of the current. Ice + seen along the banks of the river. Land at village of the natives. + Their conduct and appearance. Their fabulous stories. The English + chief and Indians discontented. Obtain a new guide. Singular customs + of the natives. An account of their dances. Description of their + persons, dress, ornaments, buildings, arms for war and hunting, + canoes, etc. Passed on among islands. Encamped beneath a hill, and + prevented from ascending by the mosquitoes. Landed at an encampment. + Conduct of the inhabitants. They abound in fabulous accounts of + dangers. Land at other encampments. Procure plenty of hares and + partridges. Our guide anxious to return. Land and alarm the natives, + called the + Hare <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxvii"></A>xvii}</SPAN> + Indians, etc. Exchange our guide. State of the weather. +<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p224">224</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td> +<center> +<h4><a name="toc_chapter4" href="#chapter4">CHAPTER IV.</a> +</h4> +</center> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td>The new guide makes his escape. Compel another to supply his + place. Land at an encampment of another tribe of Indians. Account of + their manners, dress, weapons, etc. Traffic with them. Description + of a beautiful fish. Engage another guide. His curious behaviour. + Kill a fox and ground-hog. Land at an encampment of a tribe called + the Deguthee Denees, or Quarrellers. Saw flax growing wild. The + varying character of the river and its banks. Distant mountains. + Perplexity from the numerous channels of the river. Determined to + proceed. Land where there had been an encampment of the Esquimaux. + Saw large flocks of wild-fowl. View of the sun at midnight. + Description of a place lately deserted by the Indians. Houses of the + natives described. Frequent showers. Saw a black fox. The + discontents of our hunters renewed, and pacified. Face of the + country. Land at a spot lately inhabited. Peculiar circumstances of + it. Arrive at the entrance of the lake. Proceed to an island. Some + account of it. +<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p248">248</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td> +<center><h4><a name="toc_chapter5" href="#chapter5">CHAPTER V.</a></h4> +</center> +</td></tr> +<tr><td>The baggage removed from the rising of the water. One of the + nets driven away by the wind and current. Whales are seen. Go in + pursuit of them, but prevented from continuing it by the fog. Proceed + to take a view of the ice. Canoe in danger from the swell. Examine + the islands. Describe one of them. Erect a post to perpetuate our + visit there. The rising of the water appears to be the tide. + Successful fishing. Uncertain + <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxviii"></A>xviii}</SPAN> weather. + Sail among the islands. Proceed to a river. Temperature of the air + improves. Land on a small island, which is a place of sepulture. + Description of it. See a great number of wild fowl. Fine view of the + river from the high land. The hunters kill reindeer. Cranberries, + etc., found in great plenty. The appearance and state of the country. + Our guide deserts. Large flight of geese; kill many of them. Violent + rain. Return up the river. Leave the channels for the main stream. + Obliged to tow the canoe. Land among the natives. Circumstances + concerning them. Their account of the Esquimaux Indians. Accompany + the natives to their huts. Account of our + provisions.<SPAN style="float:right"> + ... <A href="#p268">268</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td> +<center> +<h4><a name="toc_chapter6" href="#chapter6">CHAPTER VI.</a> +</h4> +</center> +</td></tr> +<tr><td>Employ the towing line. Description of a place where the + Indians come to collect flint. Their shyness and suspicions. Current + lessons. Appearance of the country. Abundance of hares. Violent + storm. Land near three lodges. Alarm of the Indians. Supply of fish + from them. Their fabulous accounts. Continue to see Indian lodges. + Treatment of a disease. Misunderstanding with the natives. The + interpreter harangues them. Their accounts similar to those we have + already received. Their curious conduct. Purchase some beaver skins. + Shoot one of their dogs. The consequence of that act. Apprehensions + of the women. Large quantities of liquorice. Swallows' nests seen in + the precipices. Fall in with a party of the natives killing geese. + Circumstances concerning them. Hurricane. Variation of the weather. + Kill great numbers of geese. Abundance of several kinds of berries. + State of the river and its bank. +<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p287">287</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + + +<tr><td> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxix"></A>xix}</SPAN> +<center><h4> +<a name="toc_chapter7" href="#chapter7">CHAPTER VII.</a> +</h4></center> +</td></tr> +<tr><td>Voyage continued. Suspect the integrity of the interpreter. + Stars visible. Springs of mineral water, and lumps of iron ore. + Arrive at the river of the Bear Lake. Coal mine in a state of + combustion. Water of the river diminished, Continue to see Indian + encampments, and kill geese, etc. Hunting excursions. A canoe found + on the edge of the wood. Attempt to ascend a mountain. Account of + the passage to it. See a few of the natives. Kill a beaver and some + hares. Design of the English chief. Kill a wolf. Changeable state + of the weather. Recover the pemmican, which had been hidden in an + island. Natives fly at our approach. Meet with dogs. Altercation + with the English chief. Account of the articles left by the + fugitives. Shoals of the river covered with saline matter. Encamp at + the mouth of the river of the mountain. The ground on fire on each + side of it. Continue to see encampments of the natives. Various + kinds of berries. Kill geese, swans, etc., etc., etc. Corroding + quality of the water. Weather changeable. Reach the entrance of the + Slave Lake. Dangers encountered on entering it. Caught pike and + trout. Met M. Le Roux on the lake. Further circumstances till our + return to Fort Chepewyan. Conclusion of the voyage. +<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p306">306</a></SPAN><br><br> +</td></tr> + +<tr><td> +<center> +<h4><a name="toc_chapter8" href="#chapter8">CHAPTER VIII.</a> +</h4> +</center> +</td></tr> +<tr><td>Leave Fort Chepewyan. Proceed to the Peace River. State of the + Lakes. Arrive at Peace Point. The reason assigned for its name. The + weather cold. Arrive at the Falls. Description of the country. Land + at the Fort, called The Old +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxx"></A>xx}</SPAN> Establishment. The + principal building destroyed by fire. Course of the river. Arrive at + another fort. Some account of the natives. Depart from thence. + Course of the river continued, It divides into two branches. Proceed + along the principal one. Land at the place of our winter's residence. + Account of its circumstances and inhabitants, etc. Preparations for + erecting a fort, etc., etc. Table of the weather. Broke the + thermometer. Frost sets in. Description of birds. +<SPAN style="float:right"> ... <A href="#p339">339</a></SPAN> +<br><br> +</td></tr> +</table> +</div> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxi"></A>xxi}</SPAN> + +<center><h3> A GENERAL HISTORY OF THE FUR TRADE +FROM CANADA TO THE NORTH-WEST.</h3></center> + +<p>The fur trade, from the earliest settlement of Canada, was considered of +the first importance to that colony. The country was then so populous, +that, in the vicinity of the establishments, the animals whose skins +were precious, in a commercial view, soon became very scarce, if not +altogether extinct. They were, it is true, hunted at former periods, +but merely for food and clothing. The Indians, therefore, to procure +the necessary supply, were encouraged, to penetrate into the country, +and were generally accompanied by some of the Canadians, who found means +to induce the remotest tribes of natives to bring the skins which were +most in demand, to their settlements, in the way of trade.</p> + +<p>It is not necessary for me to examine the cause, but experience proves +that it requires much less time for a civilized people to deviate into +the manners and customs of savage life, than for savages to rise into a +state of civilization. Such was the event with those<SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxii"></A>xxii}</SPAN> who thus +accompanied the natives on their hunting and trading excursions; for +they became so attached to the Indian mode of life, that they lost all +relish for their former habits and native homes. Hence they derived the +title of <i>Coureurs des Bois</i>, became a kind of pedlars, and were +extremely useful to the merchants engaged in the fur trade; who gave +them the necessary credit to proceed on their commercial undertakings. +Three or four of these people would join their stock, put their property +into a birch-bark canoe, which they worked themselves, and either +accompanied the natives in their excursions, or went at once to the +country where they knew they were to hunt. At length, these voyages +extended to twelve or fifteen months, when they returned with rich +cargoes of furs, and followed by great numbers of the natives. During +the short time requisite to settle their accounts with the merchants, +and procure fresh credit, they generally contrived to squander away all +their gains, when they returned to renew their favourite mode of life: +their views being answered, and their labour sufficiently rewarded, by +indulging themselves in extravagance and dissipation, during the short +space of one month in twelve or fifteen.</p> + +<p>This indifference about amassing property, and the pleasure of living +free from all <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxiii"></A>xxiii}</SPAN> +restraint, soon brought on a licentiousness of manners +which could not long escape the vigilant observation of the +missionaries, who had much reason to complain of their being a disgrace +to the Christian religion; by not only swerving from its duties +themselves, but by thus bringing it into disrepute with those of the +natives who had become converts to it; and, consequently, obstructing +the great object to which those pious men had devoted their lives. They +therefore exerted their influence to procure the suppression of these +people, and accordingly, no one was allowed to go up the country to +traffic with the Indians, without a license from the government.</p> + +<p>At first these permissions were, of course, granted only to those whose +character was such as could give no alarm to the zeal of the +missionaries: but they were afterwards bestowed as rewards for services, +on officers, and their widows; and they, who were not willing or able to +make use of them (which may be supposed to be always the case with those +of the latter description), were allowed to sell them to the merchants, +who necessarily employed the Coureurs des bois, in quality of their +agents; and these people, as may be imagined, gave sufficient cause for +the renewal of former complaints; so that the remedy proved, in fact, +worse than the disease.</p> + +<p>At length, military posts were established <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A +NAME="pxxiv"></A>xxiv}</SPAN> at the confluence of the +different large lakes of Canada, which, in a great measure checked the +evil consequences that followed from the improper conduct of these +foresters, and, at the same time, protected the trade. Besides, a +number of able and respectable men, retired from the army, prosecuted +the trade in person, under their respective licences, with great order +and regularity, and extended it to such a distance, as, in those days, +was considered to be an astonishing effort of commercial enterprize. +These persons and the missionaries having combined their views at the +same time, secured the respect of the natives, and the obedience of the +people necessarily employed in the laborious parts of this undertaking. +These gentlemen denominated themselves commanders, and not traders, +though they were entitled to both those characters: and, as for the +missionaries, if sufferings and hardships in the prosecution of the +great work which they had undertaken, deserved applause and admiration, +they had an undoubted claim to be admired and applauded: they spared no +labour and avoided no danger in the execution of their important office; +and it is to be seriously lamented, that their pious endeavours did not +meet with the success which they deserved: for there is hardly a trace +to be found beyond the cultivated parts, of their meritorious functions.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxv"></A>xxv}</SPAN> The cause of this +failure must be attributed to a want of due +consideration in the mode employed by the missionaries, to propagate the +religion of which they were the zealous ministers. They habituated +themselves to the savage life, and naturalized themselves to the savage +manners, and, by thus becoming dependent, as it were, on the natives, +they acquired their contempt rather than their veneration. If they had +been as well acquainted with human nature, as they were with the +articles of their faith, they would have known that the uncultivated +mind of an Indian must be disposed by much preparatory method and +instruction to receive the revealed truths of Christianity, to act under +its sanctions, and be impelled to good by the hope of its reward, or +turned from evil by the fear of its punishments. They should have begun +their work by teaching some of those useful arts which are the inlets of +knowledge, and lead the mind by degrees to objects of higher +comprehension. Agriculture, so formed to fix and combine society, and +so preparatory to objects of superior consideration, should have been +the first thing introduced among a savage people: it attaches the +wandering tribe to that spot where it adds so much to their comforts; +while it gives them a sense of property, and of lasting possession, +instead of the uncertain hopes of the chase, and the <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxvi"></A>xxvi}</SPAN> fugitive produce of +uncultivated wilds. Such were the means by which the forests of +Paraguay were converted into a scene of abundant cultivation, and its +savage inhabitants introduced to all the advantages of a civilized life.</p> + +<p>The Canadian missionaries should have been contented to improve the +morals of their own countrymen, so that by meliorating their character +and conduct, they would have given a striking example of the effect of +religion in promoting the comforts of life to the surrounding savages; +and might by degrees have extended its benign influence to the remotest +regions of that country, which was the object, and intended to be the +scene, of their evangelical labours. But by bearing the light of the +Gospel at once to the distance of two thousand five hundred miles from +the civilized part of the colonies, it was soon obscured by the cloud of +ignorance that darkened the human mind in those distant regions.</p> + +<p>The whole of their long route I have often travelled, and the +recollection of such a people as the missionaries having been there, was +confined to a few superannuated Canadians, who had not left that country +since the cession to the English, in 1763, and who particularly +mentioned the death of some, and the distressing situation of them all. +But if these religious men did not attain the objects of their +persevering piety, they were, during <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxxvii"></A>xxvii}</SPAN> their mission, of great service to +the commanders who engaged in those distant expeditions, and spread the +fur trade as far West as the banks of the Saskatchiwine river, in +53. North latitude, and longitude 102. West.</p> + +<p> At an early period of their intercourse with the savages, a custom was +introduced of a very excellent tendency, but is now unfortunately +discontinued, of not selling any spirituous liquor to the natives. This +admirable regulation was for some time observed, with all the respect +due to the religion by which it was sanctioned, and whose severest +censures followed the violation of it. A painful penance could alone +restore the offender to the suspended rites of the sacrament. The +casuistry of trade, however, discovered a way to gratify the Indians +with their favourite cordial without incurring the ecclesiastical +penalties, by giving, instead of selling it to them.</p> + +<p>But notwithstanding all the restrictions with which commerce was +oppressed under the French government, the fur trade was extended to the +immense distance which has been already stated; and surmounted many most +discouraging difficulties, which will be hereafter noticed; while, at +the same time, no exertions were made from Hudson's Bay to obtain even a +share of the trade of a country, which according to the charter of that +company, belonged to it, and, from its<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxxviii"></A>xxviii}</SPAN> proximity, is so much more +accessible to the mercantile adventurer.</p> + +<p>Of these trading commanders, I understood, that two attempted to +penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but the utmost extent of their journey I +could never learn; which may be attributed, indeed, to a failure of the +undertaking.</p> + +<p>For some time after the conquest of Canada, this trade was suspended, +which must have been very advantageous to the Hudson's-Bay Company, as +all the inhabitants to the westward of Lake Superior were obliged to go +to them for such articles as their habitual use had rendered necessary. +Some of the Canadians who had lived long with them, and were become +attached to a savage life, accompanied them thither annually, till +mercantile adventurers again appeared from their own country, after an +interval of several years, owing, as I suppose, to an ignorance of the +country in the conquerors, and their want of commercial confidence in +the conquered. There were, indeed, other discouragements, such as the +immense length of the journey necessary to reach the limits beyond which +this commerce must begin; the risk of property; the expenses attending +such a long transport; and an ignorance of the language of those who, +from their experience, must be necessarily employed as the intermediate +agents between them and the natives. But, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxxix"></A>xxix}</SPAN> notwithstanding these +difficulties, the trade, by degrees, began to spread over the different +parts to which it had been carried by the French, though at a great risk +of the lives, as well as the property of their new possessors, for the +natives had been taught by their former allies to entertain hostile +dispositions towards the English, from their having been in alliance +with their natural enemies the Iroquois; and there were not wanting a +sufficient number of discontented, disappointed people, to keep alive +such a notion; so that for a long time they were considered and treated +as objects of hostility. To prove this disposition of the Indians, we +have only to refer to the conduct of Pontiac, at Detroit, and the +surprise and taking of Michilimakinac, about this period.</p> + +<p>Hence it arose, that it was so late as the year 1766, before which, the +trade I mean to consider, commenced from Michilimakinac. The first who +attempted it were satisfied to go the length of the river Camenistiquia, +about thirty miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, where the +French had a principal establishment, and was the line of their +communication with the interior country. It was once destroyed by fire. +Here they went and returned successful in the following spring to +Michilimakinac. Their success induced them to renew their journey, +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxx"></A>xxx}</SPAN> and +incited others to follow their example. Some of them remained at +Camenistiquia, while others proceeded to and beyond the Grande Portage, +which, since that time has become the principal entrepot of that trade, +and is situated in a bay, in latitude 48. North, and longitude 90. West. +After passing the usual season there, they went back to Michilimakinac +as before, and encouraged by the trade, returned in increased numbers. +One of these, Thomas Curry, with a spirit of enterprize superior to that +of his contemporaries, determined to penetrate to the furthest limits of +the French discoveries in that country; or at least till the frost +should stop him. For this purpose he procured guides and interpreters, +who were acquainted with the country, and with four canoes arrived at +Fort Bourbon, which was one of their posts, at the West end of the Cedar +Lake, on the waters of the Saskatchiwine. His risk and toil were well +recompensed, for he came back the following spring with his canoes +filled with fine furs, with which he proceeded to Canada, and was +satisfied never again to return to the Indian country.</p> + +<p>From this period, people began to spread over every part of the country, +particularly where the French had established settlements.</p> + +<p>Mr. James Finlay was the first who followed Mr. Curry's example, and +with the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxxi"></A>xxxi}</SPAN> same +number of canoes, arrived, in the course of the next +season, at Nipawee, the last of the French settlements on the bank of +the Saskatchiwine river, in latitude nearly 43½. North, and longitude +103. West: he found the good fortune, as he followed, in every respect, +the example, of his predecessor.</p> + +<p>As may be supposed, there were now people enough ready to replace them, +and the trade was pursued with such avidity, and irregularity, that in a +few years it became the reverse of what it ought to have been. An +animated competition prevailed, and the contending parties carried the +trade beyond the French limits, though with no benefit to themselves or +neighbours, the Hudson's-Bay Company; who in the year 1774, and not till +then, thought proper to move from home to the East bank of Sturgeon +Lake, in latitude 53. 56. North, and longitude 102. 15. West, and became +more jealous of their fellow subjects; and, perhaps, with more cause, +than they had been of those of France. From this period, to the present +time, they have been following the Canadians to their different +establishments, while, on the contrary, there is not a solitary instance +that the Canadians have followed them; and there are many trading posts +which they have not yet attained. This, however, will no longer be a +mystery, when the nature and policy of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxxxii"></A>xxxii}</SPAN> Hudson's-Bay Company is +compared with that, which has been pursued by their rivals in this +trade.—But to return to my subject.</p> + +<p>This competition, which has been already mentioned, gave a fatal blow to +the trade from Canada, and, with other incidental causes, in my opinion, +contributed to its ruin. This trade was carried on in a very distant +country, out of the reach of legal restraint, and where there was a free +scope given to any ways or means in attaining advantage. The +consequence was not only the loss of commercial benefit to the persons +engaged in it, but of the good opinion of the natives, and the respect +of their men, who were inclined to follow their example; so that with +drinking, carousing, and quarrelling with the Indians along their route, +and among themselves, they seldom reached their winter quarters; and if +they did, it was generally by dragging their property upon sledges, as +the navigation was closed up by the frost. When at length they were +arrived, the object of each was to injure his rival traders in the +opinion of the natives as much as was in their power, by +misrepresentation and presents, for which the agents employed were +peculiarly calculated. They considered the command of their employer as +binding on them, and however wrong or irregular the transaction, the +responsibility rested with the principal <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxxxiii"></A>xxxiii}</SPAN> who directed them. This is +Indian law. Thus did they waste their credit and their property with +the natives, till the first was past redemption, and the last was nearly +exhausted; so that towards the spring in each year, the rival parties +found it absolutely necessary to join, and make one common stock of what +remained, for the purpose of trading with the natives, who could +entertain no respect for persons who had conducted themselves with so +much irregularity and deceit. The winter, therefore, was one continued +scene of disagreements and quarrels, If any one had the precaution or +good sense to keep clear of these proceedings, he derived a +proportionable advantage from his good conduct, and frequently proved a +peacemaker between the parties. To such an height had they carried this +licentious conduct, that they were in a continual state of alarm, and +were even frequently stopped to pay tribute on their route into the +country; though they had adopted the plan of travelling together in +parties of thirty or forty canoes, and keeping their men armed; which +sometimes, indeed, proved necessary for their defence.</p> + +<p>Thus was the trade carried on for several years, and consequently +becoming worse and worse, so that the partners, who met them at the +Grande Portage, naturally complained of their ill success. But specious +reasons were <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxxiv"></A>xxxiv}</SPAN> always +ready to prove that it arose from circumstances +which they could not at that time control; and encouragements were held +forth to hope that a change would soon take place, which would make +ample amends for past disappointments.</p> + +<p>It was about this time, that Mr. Joseph Frobisher, one of the gentlemen +engaged in the trade, determined to penetrate into the country yet +unexplored, to the North and Westward, and, in the spring of the year +1775, met the Indians from that quarter on their way to Fort Churchill, +at Portage de Traite, so named from that circumstance, on the banks of +the Missinipi, or Churchill river, latitude 55. 25. North, longitude +103½. West. It was indeed, with some difficulty that he could induce +them to trade with him, but he at length procured as many furs as his +canoes could carry. In this perilous expedition he sustained every kind +of hardship incident to a journey through a wild and savage country, +where his subsistence depended on what the woods and the waters +produced. These difficulties, nevertheless, did not discourage him from +returning in the following year, when he was equally successful. He +then sent his brother to explore the country still further West, who +penetrated as far as the lake of Isle a la Crosse, in latitude +55. 26. North, and longitude 108. West.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxxv"></A>xxxv}</SPAN> He, however, +never after wintered among the Indians, though he retained +a large interest in the trade, and a principal share in the direction of +it till the year 1798, when he retired to enjoy the fruits of his +labours; and, by his hospitality, became known to every respectable +stranger who visited Canada.</p> + +<p>The success of this gentleman induced others to follow his example, and +in the spring of the year 1778, some of the traders on the Saskatchiwine +river, finding they had a quantity of goods to spare, agreed to put them +into a joint stock, and gave the charge and management of them to +Mr. Peter Pond, who, in four canoes, was directed to enter the English +River, so called by Mr. Frobisher, to follow his track, and proceed +still further; if possible, to Athabasca, a country hitherto unknown but +from Indian report. In this enterprise he at length succeeded and +pitched his tent on the banks of the Elk river, by him erroneously +called the Athabasca river, about forty miles from the Lake of the +Hills, into which it empties itself.</p> + +<p>Here he passed the winter of 1778-9; saw a vast concourse of the +Knisteneaux and Chepewyan tribes, who used to carry their furs annually +to Churchill; the latter by the barren grounds, where they suffered +innumerable hardships, and were sometimes even starved to death. The former +followed the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxxvi"></A>xxxvi}</SPAN> course +of the lakes and rivers, through a country +that abounded in animals, and where there was plenty of fish: but though +they did not suffer from want of food, the intolerable fatigue of such a +journey could not be easily repaid to an Indian: they were, therefore, +highly gratified by seeing people come to their country to relieve them +from such long, toilsome, and dangerous journeys; and were immediately +reconciled to give an advanced price for the articles necessary to their +comfort and convenience. Mr. Pond's reception and success was +accordingly beyond his expectation; and he procured twice as many furs +as his canoes would carry. They also supplied him with as much +provision as he required during his residence among them, and sufficient +for his homeward voyage. Such of the furs as he could not embark, he +secured in one of his winter huts, and they were found the following +season, in the same state in which he left them.</p> + +<p>These, however, were but partial advantages, and could not prevent the +people of Canada from seeing the improper conduct of some of their +associates, which rendered it dangerous to remain any longer among the +natives. Most of them who passed the winter at the Saskatchiwine, got +to the Eagle hills, where, in the spring of the year 1780, a few days +previous to their intended departure, a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxxxvii"></A>xxxvii}</SPAN> large band of Indians being +engaged in drinking about their houses, one of the traders, to ease +himself of the troublesome importunities of a native, gave him a dose of +laudanum in a glass of grog, which effectually prevented him from giving +further trouble to any one, by setting him asleep for ever. This +accident produced a fray, in which one of the traders, and several of +the men were killed, while the rest had no other means to save +themselves but by a precipitate flight, abandoning a considerable +quantity of goods, and near half the furs which they had collected +during the winter and the spring.</p> + +<p>About the same time, two of the establishments on the Assiniboin river, +were attacked with less justice, when several white men, and a great +number of Indians were killed. In short, it appeared, that the natives +had formed a resolution to extirpate the traders; and, without entering +into any further reasonings on the subject, it appears to be +incontrovertible, that the irregularity pursued in carrying on the trade +has brought it into its present forlorn situation; and nothing but the +greatest calamity that could have befallen the natives, saved the +traders from destruction: this was the small-pox, which spread its +destructive and desolating power, as the fire consumes the dry grass of +the field. The fatal infection spread around with a baneful <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxxviii"></A>xxxviii}</SPAN> rapidity +which no flight could escape, and with a fatal effect that nothing could +resist. It destroyed with its pestilential breath whole families and +tribes; and the horrid scene presented to those who had the melancholy +and afflicting opportunity of beholding it, a combination of the dead, +the dying, and such as to avoid the horrid fate of their friends around +them, prepared to disappoint the plague of its prey, by terminating their +own existence.</p> + +<p>The habits and lives of these devoted people, which provided not to-day +for the wants of to-morrow, must have heightened the pains of such an +affliction, by leaving them not only without remedy, but even without +alleviation. Naught was left them but to submit in agony and despair.</p> + +<p>To aggravate the picture, if aggravation were possible, may be added, +the putrid carcases which the wolves, with a furious voracity, dragged +forth from the huts, or which were mangled within them by the dogs, +whose hunger was satisfied with the disfigured remains of their masters. +Nor was it uncommon for the father of a family, whom the infection had +not reached, to call them around him to represent the cruel sufferings +and horrid fate of their relations, from the influence of some evil +spirit who was preparing to extirpate their race; and to incite them to +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxxxix"></A>xxxix}</SPAN> baffle death, +with all its horrors, by their own poniards. At the same +time, if their hearts failed them in this necessary act, he was himself +ready to perform the deed of mercy with his own hand, as the last act of +his affection, and instantly to follow them to the common place of rest +and refuge from human evil.</p> + +<p>It was never satisfactorily ascertained by what means this malignant +disorder was introduced, but it was generally supposed to be from the +Missisouri, by a war party.</p> + +<p>The consequence of this melancholy event to the traders must be +self-evident; the means of disposing of their goods were cut off; and no +furs were obtained, but such as had been gathered from the habitations +of the deceased Indians, which could not be very considerable: nor did +they look from the losses of the present year, with any encouraging +expectations to those which were to come. The only fortunate people +consisted of a party who had again penetrated to the Northward and +Westward in 1780, at some distance up the Missinipi, or English river, +to Lake la Ronge. Two unfortunate circumstances, however, happened to +them; which are as follow:</p> + +<p>Mr. Wadin, a Swiss gentleman, of strict probity and known sobriety, had +gone there in the year 1779, and remained during the +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxl"></A>xl}</SPAN> summer of 1780. +His partners and others, engaged in an opposite interest, when at the +Grande Portage, agreed to send a quantity of goods on their joint +account, which was accepted, and Mr. Pond was proposed by them to be +their representative to act in conjunction with Mr. Wadin. Two men, of +more opposite characters, could not, perhaps, have been found. In +short, from various causes, their situations became very uncomfortable +to each other, and mutual ill-will was the natural consequence: without +entering, therefore, into a minute history of these transactions, it +will be sufficient to observe, that, about the end of the year 1780, or +the beginning of 1781, Mr. Wadin had received Mr. Pond and one of his +own clerks to dinner; and, in the course of the night, the former was +shot through the lower part of the thigh, when it was said that he +expired from the loss of blood, and was buried next morning at eight +o'clock. Mr. Pond, and the clerk, were tried for this murder at +Montreal, and acquitted: nevertheless, their innocence was not so +apparent as to extinguish the original suspicion.</p> + +<p>The other circumstance was this. In the spring of the year, Mr. Pond +sent the abovementioned clerk to meet the Indians from the Northward, +who used to go annually to Hudson's Bay; when he easily persuaded them +to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxli"></A>xli}</SPAN> trade with him, +and return back, that they might not take the +contagion which had depopulated the country to the Eastward of them: but +most unfortunately they caught it here, and carried it with them, to the +destruction of themselves and the neighbouring tribes.</p> + +<p>The country being thus depopulated, the traders and their friends from +Canada, who, from various causes already mentioned, were very much +reduced in number, became confined to two parties, who began seriously +to think of making permanent establishments on the Missinipi river, and +at Athabasca; for which purpose, in 1781-2, they selected their best +canoe-men, being ignorant that the small-pox penetrated that way. The +most expeditious party got only in time to the Portage la Loche, or +Mithy-Ouinigam, which divides the waters of the Missinipi from those +that fall into the Elk river, to despatch one canoe strong-handed, and +light-loaded, to that country; but, on their arrival there, they found, +in every direction, the ravages of the small-pox; so that, from the +great diminution of the natives, they returned in the spring with no +more than seven packages of beaver. The strong woods and mountainous +countries afforded a refuge to those who fled from the contagion of the +plains; but they were so alarmed at the surrounding destruction, that +they avoided the traders, and were dispirited <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxlii"></A>xlii}</SPAN> from hunting, except for +their subsistence. The traders, however, who returned into the country +in the year 1782-3, found the inhabitants in some sort of tranquillity, +and more numerous than they had reason to expect, so that their success +was proportionably better.</p> + +<p>During the winter of 1783-4, the merchants of Canada, engaged in this +trade, formed a junction of interests, under the name of the North-West +Company, and divided it into sixteen shares, without depositing any +capital; each party furnishing a proportion or quota of such articles as +were necessary to carry on the trade: the respective parties agreeing to +satisfy the friends they had in the country, who were not provided for, +according to this agreement, out of the proportions which they held. +The management of the whole was accordingly entrusted to +Messrs. Benjamin and Joseph Frobisher, and Mr. Simon M'Tavish, two +distinct houses, who had the greatest interest and influence in the +country, and for which they were to receive a stipulated commission in +all transactions.</p> + +<p>In the spring, two of those gentlemen went to the Grande Portage with +their credentials, which were confirmed and ratified by all the parties +having an option, except Mr. Peter Pond, who was not satisfied with the +share <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxliii"></A>xliii}</SPAN> allotted him. +Accordingly he, and another gentleman, Mr. Peter +Pangman, who had a right to be a partner, but for whom no provision had +been made, came to Canada, with a determination to return to the +country, if they could find any persons to join them, and give their +scheme a proper support.</p> + +<p>The traders in the country, and merchants at Montreal, thus entered into +a co-partnership, which, by these means, was consolidated and directed +by able men, who, from the powers with which they were entrusted, would +carry on the trade to the utmost extent it would bear. The traders in +the country, therefore, having every reason to expect that their past +and future labours would be recompensed, forgot all their former +animosities, and engaged with the utmost spirit and activity, to forward +the general interest; so that, in the following year, they met their +agents at the Grande Portage, with their canoes laden with rich furs +from the different parts of that immense tract of country. But this +satisfaction was not to be enjoyed without some interruption; and they +were mortified to find that Mr. Pangman had prevailed on Messrs. Gregory +and Macleod to join him, and give him their support in the business, +though deserted by Mr. Pond, who accepted the terms offered by his +former associates.</p> + +<p>In the counting-house of Mr. Gregory I <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxliv"></A>xliv}</SPAN> had been five years; and at this +period had left him, with a small adventure of goods, with which he had +entrusted me, to seek my fortune at Detroit. He, without any +solicitation on my part, had procured an insertion in the agreement, +that I should be admitted a partner in this business, on condition that +I would proceed to the Indian country in the following spring, 1785. +His partner came to Detroit to make me such a proposition. I readily +assented to it, and immediately proceeded to the Grande Portage, where I +joined my associates.</p> + +<p>We now found that independent of the natural difficulties of the +undertaking, we should have to encounter every other which they, who +were already in possession of the trade of the country, could throw in +our way, and which their circumstances enabled them to do. Nor did they +doubt, from their own superior experience, as well as that of their +clerks and men, with their local knowledge of the country and its +inhabitants, that they should soon compel us to leave the country to +them. The event, however, did not justify their expectations; for, +after the severest struggle ever known in that part of the world, and +suffering every oppression which a jealous and rival spirit could +instigate; after the murder of one of our partners, the laming of +another, and the narrow escape of one of our <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pxlv"></A>xlv}</SPAN> clerks, who received a +bullet through his powder horn, in the execution of his duty, they were +compelled to allow us a share of the trade. As we had already incurred +a loss, this union was, in every respect, a desirable event to us, and +was concluded in the month of July, 1787.</p> + +<p>This commercial establishment was now founded on a more solid basis than +any hitherto known in the country; and it not only continued in full +force, vigour, and prosperity, in spite of all interference from Canada, +but maintained at least an equal share of advantage with the +Hudson's-Bay Company, notwithstanding the superiority of their local +situation. The following account of this self-erected concern will +manifest the cause of its success.</p> + +<p>It assumed the title of the North-West Company, and was no more than an +association of commercial men, agreeing among themselves to carry on the +fur trade, unconnected with any other business, though many of the +parties engaged had extensive concerns altogether foreign to it. It may +be said to have been supported entirely upon credit; for, whether the +capital belonged to the proprietor, or was borrowed, it equally bore +interest, for which the association was annually accountable. It +consisted of twenty shares, unequally divided among the persons +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxlvi"></A>xlvi}</SPAN> concerned. +Of these, a certain proportion was held by the people who +managed the business in Canada, and were styled agents for the Company. +Their duty was to import the necessary goods from England, store them at +their own expense at Montreal, get them made up into articles suited to +the trade, pack and forward them, and supply the cash that might be +wanting for the outfits, for which they received, independent of the +profit on their shares, a commission on the amount of the accounts, +which they were obliged to make out annually, and keep the adventure of +each year distinct. Two of them went annually to the Grande Portage, to +manage and transact the business there, and on the communication at +Detroit, Michilimakinac, St. Mary's, and at Montreal, where they +received, stored, packed up, and shipped the company's furs for England, +on which they had also a small commission. The remaining shares were +held by the proprietors, who were obliged to winter and manage the +business of the concern with the Indians, and their respective clerks, +etc. They were not supposed to be under any obligation to furnish +capital, or even credit. If they obtained any capital by the trade, it +was to remain in the hands of the agents; for which they were allowed +interest. Some of them, from their long services and influence, held +double <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxlvii"></A>xlvii}</SPAN> shares, +and were allowed to retire from the business at any +period of the existing concern, with one of those shares, naming any +young man in the company's service to succeed him in the other. +Seniority and merit were, however, considered as affording a claim to +the succession, which, nevertheless, could not be disposed of without +the concurrence of the majority of the concern; who, at the same time, +relieved the seceding person from any responsibility respecting the +share that he transferred, and accounted for it according to the annual +value or rate of the property; so that the seller could have no +advantage, but that of getting the share of stock which he retained +realised, and receiving for the transferred share what was fairly +determined to be the worth of it. The former was also discharged from +all duty, and became a dormant partner. Thus, all the young men who +were not provided for at the beginning of the contract, succeeded in +succession to the character and advantages of partners. They entered +into the Company's service for five or seven years, under such +expectations, and their reasonable prospects were seldom disappointed: +there were, indeed, instances when they succeeded to shares, before +their apprenticeship was expired, and it frequently happened, that they +were provided for while they were in a state of articled clerkship. +Shares <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxlviii"></A>xlviii}</SPAN> were +transferable only to the concern at large, as no person +could be admitted as a partner who had not served his time to the trade. +The dormant partner indeed might dispose of his interest to any one he +chose, but if the transaction was not acknowledged by his associates, +the purchaser could only be considered as his agent or attorney. Every +share had a vote, and two-thirds formed a majority. This regular and +equitable mode of providing for the clerks of the company, excited a +spirit of emulation in the discharge of their various duties, and in +fact, made every agent a principal, who perceived his own prosperity to +be immediately connected with that of his employers. Indeed, without +such a spirit, such a trade could not have become so extended and +advantageous, as it has been and now is.</p> + +<p>In 1788, the gross amount of the adventure for the year did not exceed +forty thousand pounds,<a name="hl1" href="#hr1">[1]</a> but by the exertion, +enterprise, and industry of the proprietors, it was brought, in eleven years, +to triple that amount and upwards; yielding proportionate profits, and +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxlix"></A>xlix}</SPAN> surpassing, in +short, any thing known in America.</p> + +<p>Such, therefore, being the prosperous state of the company, it, very +naturally, tempted others to interfere with the concern in a manner by +no means beneficial to the company, and commonly ruinous to the +undertakers.</p> + +<p>In 1798 the concern underwent a new form, the shares were increased to +forty-six, new partners being admitted, and others retiring. This +period was the termination of the company, which was not renewed by all +the parties concerned in it, the majority continuing to act upon the old +stock, and under the old firm; the others beginning a new one; and it +now remains to be decided, whether two parties, under the same +regulations and by the same exertions, though unequal in number, can +continue to carry on the business to a successful issue. The contrary +opinion has been held, which if verified, will make it the interest of +the parties again to coalesce; for neither is deficient in capital to +support their obstinacy in a losing trade, as it is not to be supposed +that either will yield on any other terms than perpetual participation.</p> + +<p>It will not be superfluous in this place, to explain the general mode of +carrying on the fur trade.</p> + +<p>The agents are obliged to order the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pl"></A>l}</SPAN> necessary goods from England in the month of October, +eighteen months before they can leave Montreal; that is, they are not +shipped from London until the spring following, when they arrive in +Canada in the summer. In the course of the following winter they are +made up into such articles as are required for the savages; they are +then packed into parcels of ninety pounds weight each, but cannot be +sent from Montreal until the May following; so that they do not get to +market until the ensuing winter, when they are exchanged for furs, which +come to Montreal the next fall, and from thence are shipped, chiefly to +London, where they are not sold or paid for before the succeeding +spring, or even as late as June; which is forty-two months after the +goods were ordered in Canada; thirty-six after they had been shipped +from England, and twenty-four after they had been forwarded from +Montreal; so that the merchant, allowing that he has twelve months' +credit, does not receive a return to pay for those goods, and the +necessary expenses attending them, which is about equal to the value of +the goods themselves, till two years after they are considered as cash, +which makes this a very heavy business. There is even a small +proportion of it that requires twelve months longer to bring +round <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="pli"></A>li}</SPAN> the payment, +going to, the immense distance it is carried, and from the shortness of +the seasons, which prevents the furs, even after they are collected, +from coming out of the country for that period.<a name="hl2" +href="#hr2">[2]</a></p> + +<p>The articles necessary for this trade, are coarse woollen cloths of +different kinds; milled blankets of different sizes; arms and +ammunition; twist and carrot tobacco; Manchester goods; linens, and +coarse sheetings; thread, lines, and twine; common hardware; cutlery and +ironmongery of several descriptions; kettles of brass and copper, and +sheet-iron; silk and cotton handkerchiefs, hats, shoes, and hose; +calicoes and printed cottons, etc., etc., etc. Spirituous liquors and +provisions are purchased in Canada. These, and the expense of transport +to and from the Indian country, including wages to clerks, interpreters, +guides, and canoe-men, with the expense of making up the goods for the +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plii"></A>lii}</SPAN> market, form about +half the annual amount against the adventure.</p> + +<p>This expenditure in Canada ultimately tends to the encouragement of +British manufactory, for those who are employed in the different +branches of this business, are enabled by their gains to purchase such +British articles as they must otherwise forego.</p> + +<p>The produce of the year of which I am now speaking, consisted of the +following furs and peltries:</p> +<pre> + 106,000 Beaver skins, 6,000 Lynx skins, + 2,100 Bear skins, 600 Wolverine skins, + 1,500 Fox skins, 1,650 Fisher skins, + 4,000 Kitt Fox skins 100 Rackoon skins, + 4,600 Otter skins, 8,800 Wolf skins, + 17,000 Musquash skins, 700 Elk skins, + 32,000 Marten skins, 750 Deer skins, + 1,800 Mink skins, 1,200 Deer skins dressed, + 500 Buffalo robes, and quantity of castorum. +</pre> +<p>Of these were diverted from the British market, being sent through the +United States to China, 13,364 skins, fine beaver, weighing 19,283 +pounds; 1,250 fine otters, and 1,724 kitt foxes. They would have found +their way to the China market at any rate, but this deviation from the +British channel arose from the following circumstance:</p> + +<p>An adventure of this kind was undertaken by a respectable house in +London, half <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pliii"></A>liii}</SPAN> +concerned with the North-West Company, in the year 1792. +The furs were of the best kind, and suitable to the market; and the +adventurers continued this connexion for five successive years, to the +annual amount of forty thousand pounds. At the winding up of the +concern of 1792, 1793, 1794, 1795, in the year 1797 (the adventure of +1796 not being included, as the furs were not sent to China, but +disposed of in London), the North-West Company experienced a loss of +upwards of £40,000 (their half), which was principally owing to +the difficulty of getting home the produce procured in return for the +furs from China, in the East India Company's ships, together with the +duty payable, and the various restrictions of that company. Whereas, +from America there are no impediments; they get immediately to market, +and the produce of them is brought back, and perhaps sold in the course +of twelve months. From such advantages, the furs of Canada will no +doubt find their way to China by America, which would not be the case if +British subjects had the same privileges that are allowed to foreigners, +as London would then be found the best and safest market.</p> + +<p>But to return to our principal subject. We shall now proceed to +consider the number of men employed in the concern: viz., fifty clerks, +seventy-one interpreters and clerks, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pliv"></A>liv}</SPAN> one thousand one hundred and twenty +canoe-men, and thirty-five guides. Of these, five clerks, eighteen +guides, and three hundred and fifty canoe-men, were employed for the +summer season in going from Montreal to the Grande Portage, in canoes, +part of whom proceeded from thence to Rainy Lake, as will be hereafter +explained, and are called Pork-eaters, or Goers and Comers. These were +hired in Canada or Montreal, and were absent from the 1st of May till +the latter end of September. For this trip the guides had from eight +hundred to a thousand livres, and, a suitable equipment; the foreman and +steersman from four to six hundred livres; the middle-men from two +hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty livres, with an equipment +of one blanket, one shirt, and one pair of trowsers; and were maintained +during that period at the expense of their employers. Independent of +their wages, they were allowed to traffic, and many of them earned to +the amount of their wages. About one-third of these went to winter, and +had more than double the above wages and equipment. All the winterers +were hired by the year, and sometimes for three years; and of the clerks +many were apprentices, who were generally engaged for five or seven +years, for which they had only one hundred pounds, provision and +clothing. Such of them who could not <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"plv"></A>lv}</SPAN> be provided for as partners, at +the expiration of this time, were allowed from one hundred pounds to +three hundred pounds per annum, with all necessaries, till provision was +made for them. Those who acted in the two-fold capacity of clerk and +interpreter, or were so denominated, had no other expectation than the +payment of wages to the amount of from one thousand to four thousand +livres per annum, with clothing and provisions. The guides, who are a +very useful set of men, acted also in the additional capacity of +interpreters, and had a stated quantity of goods, considered as +sufficient for their wants, their wages being from one to three thousand +livres. The canoe-men are of two descriptions, foremen and steersmen, +and middlemen. The two first were allowed annually one thousand two +hundred, and the latter eight hundred, livres each. The first class had +what is called an equipment, consisting of two blankets, two shirts, two +pair of trowsers, two handkerchiefs, fourteen pounds of carrot tobacco, +and some trifling articles. The latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and +all the other articles: those are called North Men, or Winterers; and to +the last class of people were attached upwards of seven hundred Indian +women and children, victualled at the expence of the company.</p> + +<p>The first class of people are hired in <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"plvi"></A>lvi}</SPAN> Montreal five months before they +set out, and receive their equipments, and one-third of their wages in +advance; and an adequate idea of the labour they undergo, may be formed +from the following account of the country through which they pass, and +their manner of proceeding.</p> + +<p>The necessary number of canoes being purchased, at about three hundred +livres each, the goods formed into packages, and the lakes and rivers +free of ice, which they usually are in the beginning of May, they are +then despatched from La Chine, eight miles above Montreal, with eight or +ten men in each canoe, and their baggage; and sixty-five packages of +goods, six hundred weight of biscuit, two hundred weight of pork, three +bushels of pease, for the men's provision; two oil-cloths to cover the +goods, a sail, etc., an axe, a towing-line, a kettle, and a sponge to +bail out the water, with a quantity of gum, bark, and watape, to repair +the vessel. An European on seeing one of these slender vessels thus +laden, heaped up, and sunk with her gunwale within six inches of the +water, would think his fate inevitable in such a boat, when he reflected +on the nature of her voyage; but the Canadians are so expert that few +accidents happen.</p> + +<p>Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann's, within two miles of the +Western <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plvii"></A>lvii}</SPAN> extremity +of the island of Montreal, the lake of the two +mountains being in sight, which may be termed the commencement of the +Utawas river. At the rapid of St. Ann they are obliged to take out +part, if not the whole of their lading. It is from this spot that the +Canadians consider they take their departure, as it possesses the last +church on the island, which is dedicated to the tutelar saint of +voyages.</p> + +<p>The lake of the two mountains is about twenty miles long, but not +more than three wide, and surrounded by cultivated fields, except the +Seignory belonging to the clergy, though nominally in possession of the +two tribes of Iroquois and Algonquins, whose village is situated on a +delightful point of land under the hills, which, by the title of +mountains, give a name to the lake. Near the extremity of the point +their church is built, which divides the village in two parts, forming a +regular angle along the water side. On the East is the station of the +Algonquins, and on the West, one of the Iroquois, consisting in all of +about five hundred warriors. Each party has its missionary, and divine +worship is performed according to the rites of the Roman Catholic +religion, in their respective languages in the same church: and so +assiduous have their pastors been, that these people have been +instructed in +reading <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plviii"></A>lviii}</SPAN> and +writing in their own language, and are better instructed than the +Canadian inhabitants of the country of the lower ranks: but +notwithstanding these advantages, and though the establishment is nearly +coeval with the colonization of the country, they do not advance towards +a state of civilization, but retain their ancient habits, language, and +customs, and are becoming every day more depraved, indigent, and +insignificant. The country around them, though very capable of +cultivation, presents only a few miserable patches of ground, sown by +the women with maize and vegetables. During the winter season, they +leave their habitations, and pious pastors, to follow the chase, +according to the custom of their forefathers. Such is, indeed, the +state of all the villages near the cultivated parts of Canada. But we +shall now leave them to proceed on our voyage.</p> + +<p>At the end of the lake the water contracts into the Utawas river, which, +after a course of fifteen miles, is interrupted by a succession of +rapids and cascades for upwards of ten miles, at the foot of which the +Canadian Seignories terminate; and all above them were waste land, till +the conclusion of the American war, when they were surveyed by order of +government, and granted to the officers and men of the eighty-fourth +regiment, when reduced; but principally to the former, <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="plix"></A>lix}</SPAN> and consequently +little inhabited, though very capable of cultivation.</p> + +<p>The voyagers are frequently obliged to unload their canoes, and carry +the goods upon their backs, or rather suspended in slings from their +heads. Each man's ordinary load is two packages, though some carry +three. Here the canoe is towed by a strong line. There are some places +where the ground will not admit of their carrying the whole; they then +make two trips, that is, leave half their lading, and go and land it at +the distance required; and then return for that which was left. In this +distance are three carrying-places, the length of which depends in a +great measure upon the state of the water, whether higher or lower; from +the last of these the river is about a mile and a half wide, and has a +regular current for about sixty miles, when it ends at the first Portage +de Chaudiere, where the body of water falls twenty-five feet, over +cragged, excavated rocks, in a most wild, romantic manner. At a small +distance below, is the river Rideau on the left, falling over a +perpendicular rock, near forty feet high, in one sheet, assuming the +appearance of a curtain; and from which circumstance it derives its +name. To this extent the lands have been surveyed, as before observed, +and are very fit for culture. Many loyalists are settled upon the river +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plx"></A>lx}</SPAN> Rideau, and have, +I am told, thriving plantations. Some American +families preferring the British territory, have also established +themselves along a river on the opposite side, where the soil is +excellent. Nor do I think the period is far distant, when the lands +will become settled from this vicinity to Montreal.</p> + +<p>Over this portage, which is six hundred and forty-three paces long, +the canoe and all the lading is carried. The rock is so steep and +difficult of access, that it requires twelve men to take the canoe out +of the water: it is then carried by six men, two at each end on the same +side, and two under the opposite gunwale in the middle. From hence to +the next is but a short distance, in which they make two trips to the +second Portage de Chaudiere, which is seven hundred paces, to carry the +loading alone. From hence to the next and last Chaudiere, or Portage +des Chenes, is about six miles, with a very strong current, where the +goods are carried seven hundred and forty paces; the canoe being towed +up by the line, when the water is not very high. We now enter Lac des +Chaudieres, which is computed to be thirty miles in length. Though it +is called a lake, there is a strong draught downwards, and its breadth +is from two to four miles. At the end of this is the Portage des Chats, +over <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxi"></A>lxi}</SPAN> which the +canoe and lading are carried two hundred and seventy-four paces; and +very difficult it is for the former. The river is here barred by a +ridge of black rock, rising in pinnacles and covered with wood, which, +from the small quantity of soil that nourishes it, is low and stinted. +The river finds its way over and through these rocks, in numerous +channels, falling fifteen feet and upwards. From hence two trips are +made through a serpentine channel, formed by the rocks, for several +miles, when the current slackens, and is accordingly called the Lac des +Chats. To the channels of the grand Calumet, which are computed to be +at the distance of eighteen miles, the current recovers its strength, +and proceeds to the Portage Dufort, which is two hundred and forty-five +paces long; over which the canoe and baggage are transported. From +hence the current becomes more rapid, and requires two trips to the +Decharge des Sables,<a name="hl3" href="#hr3">[3]</a> where the goods +are carried one hundred and thirty-five paces, and the canoe towed. +Then follows the Mountain Portage, where the canoe and lading are also +carried three hundred and eighty-five paces; then to the Decharge +of <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="plxii"></A>lxii}</SPAN> the Derige, +where the goods are carried two hundred and fifty paces; and thence to +the grand Calumet. This is the longest carrying-place in this river, +and is about two thousand and thirty-five paces. It is a high hill or +mountain. From the upper part of this Portage the current is steady, +and is only a branch of the Utawas river, which joins the main channel, +that keeps a more Southern course, at the distance of twelve computed +leagues. Six leagues further it forms Lake Coulonge, which is about +four leagues in length; from thence it proceeds through the channels of +the Allumettes to the decharge, where part of the lading is taken out, +and carried three hundred and forty-two paces. Then succeeds the +Portage des Allumettes, which is but twenty-five paces, over a rock +difficult of access, and at a very short distance from Decharge. From +Portage de Chenes to this spot, is a fine deer-hunting country, and the +land in many places very fit for cultivation. From hence the river +spreads wide, and is full of islands, with some current for seven +leagues, to the beginning of <i>Riviere Creuse</i>, or Deep River, which +runs in the form of a canal, about a mile and a half wide, for about +thirty-six miles; bounded upon the North by very high rocks, with low +land on the South, and sandy; it is intercepted again by falls and +cataracts, so that +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxiii"></A>lxiii}</SPAN> the Portages +of the two Joachins almost join. The first is nine hundred and +twenty-six paces, the next seven hundred and twenty, and both very bad +roads. From hence is a steady current of nine miles to the river du +Moine, where there has generally been a trading house; the stream then +becomes strong for four leagues, when a rapid succeeds, which requires +two trips. A little way onward is the Decharge, and close to it, the +Portage of the Roche Capitaine, seven hundred and ninety-seven paces in +length. From hence two trips are made through a narrow channel of the +Roche Capitaine, made by an island four miles in length. A strong +current now succeeds, for about six leagues to the Portage of the two +rivers, which is about eight hundred and twenty paces; from thence it is +three leagues to the Decharge of the Trou, which is three hundred paces. +Near adjoining is the rapid of Levellier; from whence, including the +rapids of Matawoen, where there is no carrying-place, it is about +thirty-six miles to the forks of the same name; in latitude +46. 45. North, and longitude 78. 45. West, and is at the computed +distance of four hundred miles from Montreal. At this place the Petite +Riviere falls into the Utawas. The latter river comes from a +North-Westerly direction, forming several lakes in its course. The +principal of +them <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxiv"></A>lxiv}</SPAN> is Lake +Temescamang, where there has always been a trading post, which may be +said to continue, by a succession of rivers and lakes, upwards of fifty +leagues from the Forks, passing near the waters of the Lake Abbitiby, in +latitude 48½, which is received by the Moose River, that empties itself +into James Bay.</p> + +<p>The Petite Riviere takes a South-West direction, is full of rapids and +cataracts to its source, and is not more than fifteen leagues in length, +in the course of which are the following interruptions—The Portage of +Plein Champ, three hundred and nineteen paces; the Decharge of the Rose, +one hundred and forty-five paces; the Decharge of Campion, one hundred +and eighty-four paces; the Portage of the Grosse Roche, one hundred and +fifty paces; the Portage of Paresseux, four hundred and two paces; the +Portage of Prairie, two hundred and eighty-seven paces; the Portage of +La Cave, one hundred paces; Portage of Talon, two hundred and +seventy-five paces; which, for its length, is the worst on the +communication; Portage Pin de Musique, four hundred and fifty-six paces; +next to this, is mauvais de Musique, where many men have been crushed to +death by the canoes, and others have received irrecoverable injuries. +The last in this river is the Turtle Portage, eighty-three paces, on +entering the lake of that name, where, indeed, the river <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="plxv"></A>lxv}</SPAN> may be said to +take its source. At the first vase from whence to the great river, the +country has the appearance of having been over-run by fire, and +consists, in general, of huge rocky hills. The distance of this portage +which is the height of land, between the waters of the St. Laurence and +the Utawas, is one thousand five hundred and thirteen paces to a small +canal in a plain, that is just sufficient to carry the loaded canoe +about one mile to the next vase, which is seven hundred and twenty-five +paces. It would be twice this distance, but the narrow creek is dammed +in the beaver fashion, to float the canoes to this barrier, through +which they pass, when the river is just sufficient to bear them through +a swamp of two miles to the last vase, of one thousand and twenty-four +paces in length. Though the river is increased in this part, some care +is necessary to avoid rocks and stumps of trees. In about six miles is +the lake Nepisingui, which is computed to be twelve leagues long, though +the route of the canoes is something more: it is about fifteen miles +wide in the widest part, and bound with rocks. Its inhabitants consist +of the remainder of a numerous converted tribe, called Nepisinguis of +the Algonquin nation. Out of it flows the Riviere des François, over +rocks of a considerable height. In a bay to the East of this, the road +leads over <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxvi"></A>lxvi}</SPAN> the +Portage of the Chaudiere des François, five hundred and +forty-four paces, to still water. It must have acquired the name of +Kettle, from a great number of holes in the solid rock of a cylindrical +form, and not unlike that culinary utensil. They are observable in many +parts along strong bodies of water, and where, at certain seasons, and +distinct periods, it is well known the water inundates; at the bottom of +them are generally found a number of small stones and pebbles. This +circumstance justifies the conclusion, that at some former period these +rocks formed the bed of a branch of the discharge of this lake, although +some of them are upwards of ten feet above the present level of the +water at its greatest height. They are, indeed, to be seen along every +great river throughout this wide extended country. The French river is +very irregular, both as to its breadth and form, and is so interspersed +with islands, that in the whole course of it the banks are seldom +visible. Of its various channels, that which is generally followed by +the canoes is obstructed by the following Portages, viz., des Pins, +fifty-two paces; Feausille, thirty-six paces; Parisienne, one hundred +paces; Recolet, forty-five paces; and the Petite Feausille, twenty-five +paces. In several parts there are guts or channels, where the water +flows with great velocity, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"plxvii"></A>lxvii}</SPAN> which are not more than twice the breadth of +a canoe. The distance to Lake Huron is estimated at twenty-five +leagues, which this river enters in the latitude 45. 53. North, that is, +at the point of land three or four miles within the lake. There is +hardly a foot of soil to be seen from one end of the French river to the +other, its banks consisting of hills of entire rock. The coast of the +lake is the same, but lower, backed at some distance by high lands. The +course runs through numerous islands to the North of West to the river +Tessalon, computed to be about fifty leagues from the French river, and +which I found to be in latitude 46. 12. 21. North; and from thence +crossing, from island to island, the arm of the lake that receives the +water of Lake Superior (which continues the same course), the route +changes to the South of West ten leagues to the Detour, passing the end +of the island of St. Joseph, within six miles of the former place. On +that island there has been a military establishment since the upper +posts were given up to the Americans in the year 1794; and is the +Westernmost military position which we have in this country. It is a +place of no trade, and the greater part, if not the whole of the Indians +come here for no other purpose but to receive the presents which our +government annually allows them. They are from the <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="plxviii"></A>lxviii}</SPAN> American territory +(except about thirty families, who are the inhabitants of the lake from +the French river, and of the Algonquin nation) and trade in their +peltries, as they used formerly to do at Michilimakinac, but principally +with British subjects. The Americans pay them very little attention, +and tell them that they keep possession of their country by right of +conquest: that, as their brothers, they will be friends with them while +they deserve it; and that their traders will bring them every kind of +goods they require, which they may procure by their industry.</p> + +<p>Our commanders treat them in a very different manner, and, under the +character of the representative of their father (which parental title +the natives give to his present Majesty, the common father of all his +people) present them with such things as the actual state of their +stores will allow.</p> + +<p>How far this conduct, if continued, may, at a future exigency, keep +these people in our interest, if they are even worthy of it, is not an +object of my present consideration: at the same time, I cannot avoid +expressing my perfect conviction, that it would not be of the least +advantage to our present or future commerce in that country, or to the +people themselves; as it only tends to keep many of them in a state of +idleness about our military establishments. The ammunition which +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxix"></A>lxix}</SPAN> they +receive is employed to kill game, in order to procure rum in return, +though their families may be in a starving condition: hence it is, that, +in consequence of slothful and dissolute lives, their numbers are in a +very perceptible state of diminution.</p> + +<p>From the Detour to the island of Michilimakinac, at the conference of +the Lakes Huron and Michigan, in latitude 45. 54. North is about forty +miles. To keep the direct course to Lake Superior, the North shore from +the river Tessalon should be followed; crossing to the North-West end of +St. Joseph, and passing between it and the adjacent islands, which makes +a distance of fifty miles to the fall of St. Mary, at the foot of which, +upon the South shore, there is a village, formerly a place of great +resort for the inhabitants of Lake Superior, and consequently of +considerable trade: it is now, however, dwindled to nothing, and reduced +to about thirty families, of the Algonquin, nation, who are one half of +the year starving, and the other half intoxicated, and ten or twelve +Canadians, who have been in the Indian country from an early period of +life, and intermarried with the natives, who have brought them families. +Their inducements to settle there, was the great quantity of white fish +that are to be taken in and about the falls, with very little trouble, +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxx"></A>lxx}</SPAN> particularly in the +autumn, when that fish leave the lakes, and comes to +the running and shallow waters to spawn. These, when salt can be +procured, are pickled just as the frost sets in, and prove very good +food with potatoes, which they have of late cultivated with success. +The natives live chiefly on this fish, which they hang up by the tails, +and preserve throughout the winter, or at least as long as they last; +for whatever quantity they may have taken, it is never known that their +economy is such as to make them last through the winter, which renders +their situation very distressing; for if they had activity sufficient to +pursue the labours of the chase, the woods are become so barren of game +as to afford them no great prospect of relief. In the spring of the +year, they and the other inhabitants make a quantity of sugar from the +maple tree, which they exchange with the traders for necessary articles, +or carry it to Michilimakinac, where they expect a better price. One of +these traders was agent for the North-West Company, receiving, storing, +and forwarding such articles as come by the way of the lakes upon their +vessels: for it is to be observed, that a quantity of their goods are +sent by that route from Montreal in boats to Kingston, at the entrance +of Lake Ontario, and from thence in vessels to Niagara, then over land +ten miles to a water <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxxi"></A>lxxi}</SPAN> +communication by boats, to Lake Erie, where they are again +received into vessels, and carried over that lake up the river +Detroit, through the lake and river Sinclair to Lake Huron, and from +thence to the Falls of St. Mary's, when they are again landed and +carried for a mile above the falls, and shipped over Lake Superior to +the Grande Portage. This is found to be a less expensive method than by +canoes, but attended with more risk, and requiring more time, than one +short season of this country will admit; for the goods are always sent +from Montreal the preceding fall; and besides, the company get their +provisions from Detroit, as flour and Indian corn; as also considerable +supplies from Michilimakinac of maple sugar, tallow, gum, etc., etc.</p> + +<p>For the purpose of conveying all these things, they have two vessels +upon the Lakes Erie and Huron, and one on Lake Superior, of from fifty +to seventy tons burden. This being, therefore, the depot for +transports, the Montreal canoes, on their arrival, were forwarded over +Lake Superior, with only five men in each; the others were sent to +Michilimakinac for additional canoes, which were required to prosecute +the trade, and then taking a lading there, or at St. Mary's, and follow +the others. At length they all arrive at the Grande Portage which is +one hundred <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxxii"></A>lxxii}</SPAN> +and sixty leagues from St. Mary's, coastways, and situated +on a pleasant bay on the North side of the lake, in latitude 48. North, +and longitude 90. West from Greenwich, where the compass has not above +five degrees East variation.</p> + +<p>At the entrance of the bay is an island which screens the harbour from +every wind except the South. The shallowness of the water, however, +renders it necessary for the vessel to anchor near a mile from the +shore, where there is not more than fourteen feet water. This lake +justifies the name that has been given to it; the Falls of St. Mary, +which is its Northern extremity, being in latitude 46. 31. North, and in +longitude 84. West, where there is no variation of the compass +whatever, while its Southern extremity, at the river St. Louis, is in +latitude 46. 45. North, and longitude 92. 10. West: its greatest +breadth is one hundred and twenty miles, and its circumference, +including its various bays, is not less than one thousand two hundred +miles. Along its North shore is the safest navigation, as it is a +continued mountainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to one +thousand five hundred feet in height. There are numerous coves and +sandy bays to land, which are frequently sheltered by islands from the +swell of the lake. This is particularly the case at the distance of one +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxxiii"></A>lxxiii}</SPAN> hundred +miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, and is called the Pays Plat. +</p> + +<p>This seems to have been caused by some convulsion of nature, for many of +the islands display a composition of lava, intermixed with round stones +of the size of a pigeon's egg. The surrounding rock is generally hard, +and of a dark blue-grey, though it frequently has the appearance of iron +and copper. The South side of the lake, from Point Shagoimigo East, is +almost a continual straight line of sandy beach, interspersed with rocky +precipices of lime-stones, sometimes rising to a hundred feet in height, +without a bay. The embankments from that point Westward are, in +general, of strong clay, mixed with stones, which renders the navigation +irksome and dangerous. On the same side, at the river Tonnagan, is +found a quantity of virgin copper. The Americans, soon after they got +possession of that country, sent an engineer thither; and I should not +be surprised to hear of their employing people to work the mine. +Indeed, it might be well worthy the attention of the British subjects to +work the mines on the North coast, though they are not supposed to be so +rich as those on the South.</p> + +<p>Lake Superior is the largest and most magnificent body of fresh water in +the world: it is clear and pellucid, of great <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A +NAME="plxxiv"></A>lxxiv}</SPAN> depth, and abounding in a +great variety of fish, which are the most excellent of their kind. +There are trouts of three kinds, weighing from five to fifty pounds, +sturgeon, pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black bass, herrings, +etc., etc., and the last, and best of all, the Ticamang, or white fish, +which weighs from four to sixteen pounds, and is of a superior quality +in these waters.</p> + +<p>This lake may be denominated the grand reservoir of the River +St. Laurence, as no considerable rivers discharge themselves into it. +The principal ones are, the St. Louis, the Nipigon, the Pic, and the +Michipicoten. Indeed, the extent of country from which any of them +flow, or take their course, in any direction, cannot admit of it, in +consequence of the ridge of land that separates them from the rivers +that empty themselves into Hudson's-Bay, the gulf of Mexico, and the +waters that fall in Lake Michigan, which afterward become a part of the +St. Laurence.</p> + +<p>This vast collection of water is often covered with fog, particularly +when the wind is from the East, which, driving against the high barren +rocks on the North and West shore, dissolves in torrents of rain. It is +very generally said, that the storms on this lake are denoted by a swell +on the preceding day; but this circumstance did not appear from my +observation to be a regular <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"plxxv"></A>lxxv}</SPAN> phenomenon, as the swells more regularly +subsided without any subsequent wind.</p> + +<p>Along the surrounding rocks of this immense lake, evident marks appear +of the decrease of its water, by the lines observable along them. The +space, however, between the highest and the lowest, is not so great as +in the smaller lakes, as it does not amount to more than six feet, the +former being very faint.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants that are found along the coast of this water, are all of +the Algonquin nation, the whole of which do not exceed 150 families.<a +name="hl4" href="#hr4">[4]</a></p> + +<p>These people live chiefly on fish; indeed, from what has been said of +the country, it cannot be expected to abound in animals, as it is +totally destitute of that shelter, which is so necessary to them. The +rocks appear to have been over-run by fire, and the stinted timber which +once grew there, is frequently seen lying along the surface of them: but +it is not easy to be reconciled, that anything <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A +NAME="plxxvi"></A>lxxvi}</SPAN> should grow where there +is so little appearance of soil. Between the fallen trees there are +briars, with hurtleberry and gooseberry bushes, raspberries, etc., which +invite the bears in greater or lesser numbers, as they are a favourite +food of that animal: beyond these rocky banks are found a few moose and +fallow deer. The waters alone are abundantly inhabited.</p> + +<p>A very curious phenomenon was observed some years ago at the Grande +Portage, for which no obvious cause could be assigned. The water +withdrew with great precipitation, leaving the ground dry that had never +before been visible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet, +and rushing back with great velocity above the common mark. It +continued thus falling and rising for several hours, gradually +decreasing till it stopped at its usual height. There is frequently an +irregular influx and deflux, which does not exceed ten inches, and is +attributed to the wind.</p> + +<p>The bottom of the bay, which forms an amphitheatre, is cleared of wood +and inclosed; and on the left corner of it, beneath an hill, three or +four hundred feet in height, and crowned by others of a still greater +altitude, is the fort, picketed in with cedar pallisadoes, and inclosing +houses built with wood and covered with shingles. They are calculated +for every convenience of trade, as well <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"plxxvii"></A>lxxvii}</SPAN> as to accommodate the +proprietors and clerks during their short residence there. The north +men live under tents: but the more frugal pork-eater lodges beneath his +canoe. The soil immediately bordering on the lake has not proved very +propitious, as nothing but potatoes have been found to answer the +trouble of cultivation. This circumstance is probably owing to the cold +damp fogs of the lake, and the moisture of the ground from the springs +that issue from beneath the hills. There are meadows in the vicinity +that yield abundance of hay for the cattle; but, as to agriculture, it +has not hitherto been an object of serious consideration.</p> + +<p>I shall now leave these geographical notices, to give some further +account of the people from Montreal.—When they are arrived at the +Grande Portage, which is near nine miles over, each of them has to carry +eight packages of such goods and provisions as are necessary for the +interior country. This is a labour which cattle cannot conveniently +perform in summer, as both horses and oxen were tried by the company +without success. They are only useful for light, bulky articles; or for +transporting upon sledges, during the winter, whatever goods may remain +there, especially provision, of which it is usual to have a year's stock +on hand.</p> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxxviii"></A>lxxviii}</SPAN> +<p>Having finished this toilsome part of their duty, if more goods are +necessary to be transported, they are allowed a Spanish dollar for each +package: and so inured are they to this kind of labour, that I have +known some of them set off with two packages of ninety pounds each, and +return with two others of the same weight, in the course of six hours, +being a distance of eighteen miles over hills and mountains. This +necessary part of the business being over, if the season be early they +have some respite, but this depends upon the time the North men begin to +arrive from their winter quarters, which they commonly do early in July. +At this period, it is necessary to select from the pork-eaters, a number +of men, among whom are the recruits, or winterers, sufficient to man the +North canoes necessary to carry, to the river of the rainy lake, the +goods and provision requisite for the Athabasca country; as the people +of that country (owing to the shortness of the season and length of the +road, can come no further), are equipped there, and exchange ladings +with the people of whom we are speaking, and both return from whence +they came. This voyage is performed in the course of a month, and they +are allowed proportionable wages for their services.</p> + +<p>The North men being arrived at the Grande Portage, are regaled with +bread, pork, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxxix"></A>lxxix}</SPAN> +butter, liquor, and tobacco, and such as have not entered +into agreements during the winter, which is customary, are contracted +with, to return and perform the voyage for one, two, or three years; +their accounts are also settled, and such as choose to send any of their +earnings to Canada, receive drafts to transmit to their relations or +friends; and as soon as they can be got ready, which requires no more +than a fortnight, they are again despatched to their respective +departments. It is, indeed, very creditable to them as servants, that +though they are sometimes assembled to the number of twelve hundred men, +indulging themselves in the free use of liquor, and quarrelling with +each other, they always show the greatest respect to their employers, +who are comparatively but few in number, and beyond the aid of any legal +power to enforce due obedience. In short, a degree of subordination can +only be maintained by the good opinion these men entertain of their +employers, which has been uniformly the case, since the trade has been +formed and conducted on a regular system.</p> + +<p>The people being despatched to their respective winter-quarters, the +agents from Montreal, assisted by their clerks, prepare to return there, +by getting the furs across the portage, and re-making them into packages +of one hundred pounds weight each, to send <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"plxxx"></A>lxxx}</SPAN> them to Montreal; where they +commonly arrive in the month of September.</p> + +<p>The mode of living at the Grande Portage is as follows: The proprietors, +clerks, guides, and interpreters, mess together, to the number of +sometimes an hundred, at several tables, in one large hall, the +provision consisting of bread, salt pork, beef, hams, fish, and venison, +butter, peas, Indian corn, potatoes, tea, spirits, wine, etc., and +plenty of milk, for which purpose several milch cows are constantly +kept. The mechanics have rations of such provision, but the canoe-men, +both from the North and Montreal, have no other allowance here, or in +the voyage, than Indian corn and melted fat. The corn for this purpose +is prepared before it leaves Detroit, by boiling it in a strong alkali, +which takes off the outer husk: it is then well washed, and carefully +dried upon stages, when it is fit for use. One quart of this is boiled +for two hours, over a moderate fire, in a gallon of water; to which, +when it has boiled a small time, are added two ounces of melted suet; +this causes the corn to split, and in the time mentioned makes a pretty +thick pudding. If to this is added a little salt, (but not before it is +boiled, as it would interrupt the operation) it makes a wholesome, +palatable food, and easy of digestion. This quantity is fully +sufficient for a man's subsistence during<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"plxxxi"></A>lxxxi}</SPAN> twenty-four hours; though it +is not sufficiently heartening to sustain the strength necessary for a +state of active labour. The Americans call this dish hominy.<a name= +"hl5" href="#hr5">[5]</a></p> + +<p>The trade from the Grande Portage is, in some particulars, carried on in +a different manner with that from Montreal. The canoes used in the +latter transport are now too large for the former, and some of about +half the size are procured from the natives, and are navigated by four, +five, or six men, according to the distance which they have to go. They +carry a lading of about thirty-five packages, on an average; of these +twenty-three are for the purpose of trade, and the rest are employed for +provisions, stores, and baggage. In each of these canoes are a foreman +and steersman; the one to be always on the look-out, and direct the +passage of the vessel, and the other to attend the helm. They also +carry her, whenever that office is necessary. The foreman has the +command, and the middle-men obey both; the latter earn only two-thirds +of the wages which are paid the two former. Independent of these, a +conductor or pilot is appointed to every <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"plxxxii"></A>lxxxii}</SPAN> four or six of these canoes, +whom they are all obliged to obey; and is, or at least is intended to +be, a person of superior experience, for which he is proportionably +paid.</p> + +<p>In these canoes, thus loaded, they embark at the North side of the +portage, on the river Au Tourt, which is very inconsiderable; and after +about two miles of a Westerly course, is obstructed by the Partridge +Portage, six hundred paces long. In the spring this makes a +considerable fall, when the water is high, over a perpendicular rock of +one hundred and twenty feet. From, thence the river continues to be +shallow, and requires great care to prevent the bottom of the canoe from +being injured by sharp rocks, for a distance of three miles and an half +to the Priarie, or Meadow, when half the lading is taken out, and +carried by part of the crew, while two of them are conducting the canoe +among the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carreboeuf Portage, three +miles and a half more, when they unload, and come back two miles, and +embark what was left for the other hands to carry, which they also land +with the former; all of which is carried six hundred and eighty paces, +and the canoe led up against the rapid. From hence the water is better +calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a winding course to the North +of West <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxxxiii"></A>lxxxiii}</SPAN> +three miles to the Outard Portage, over which the canoe, and +every thing in her, is carried for two thousand four hundred paces. At +the further end is a very high hill to descend, over which hangs a rock +upwards of seven hundred feet high. Then succeeds the Outard Lake, +about six miles long, lying in a North-West course, and about two miles +wide in the broadest place.</p> + +<p>After passing a very small rivulet, they come to the Elk Portage, +over which the canoe and lading are again carried one thousand one +hundred and twenty paces; when they enter the lake of the same name, +which is an handsome piece of water, running North-West about four +miles, and not more than one mile and an half wide.<a name="hl6" +href="#hr6">[6]</a> They then land at the Portage de Cerise, over which, +and in the face of a considerable hill, the canoe and cargo are again +transported for one thousand and fifty paces. This is only separated +from the second Portage de Cerise, by a mud-pond (where there is plenty +of water lilies), of a quarter of a mile in length; and this is again +separated by a similar pond, from the last Portage de Cerise, which is +four hundred and ten paces. Here the same operation is to be performed +for three hundred and eighty paces. They next enter on the +Mountain <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "plxxxiv"></A>lxxxiv}</SPAN> +Lake, running North-West by West six miles long, and about two miles in +its greatest breadth. In the centre of this lake, and to the right is +the Old Road, by which I never passed, but an adequate notion may be +formed of it from the road I am going to describe, and which is +universally preferred. This is first, the small new portage over which +everything is carried for six hundred and twenty-six paces, over hills +and gullies; the whole is then embarked on a narrow line of water, that +meanders South-West about two miles and an half. It is necessary to +unload here, for the length of the canoe, and then proceed West half a +mile, to the new Grande Portage, which is three thousand one hundred +paces in length, and over very rough ground, which requires the utmost +exertions of the men, and frequently lames them: from hence they +approach the Rose Lake, the portage of that name being opposite to the +junction of the road from the Mountain Lake. They then embark on the +Rose Lake, about one mile from the East end of it, and steer West by +South, in an oblique course, across it two miles, then North-West +passing the Petite Peche to the Marten Portage three miles. In this +part of the lake the bottom is mud and slime, with about three or four +feet of water over it; and here I frequently struck a canoe pole of +twelve feet +long, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxxxv"></A>lxxxv}</SPAN> without +meeting any other obstruction than if the whole were water: it has, +however, a peculiar suction or attractive power, so that it is difficult +to paddle a canoe over it. There is a small space along the South +shore, where the water is deep, and this effect is not felt. In +proportion to the distance from this part, the suction becomes more +powerful: I have, indeed, been told that loaded canoes have been in +danger of being swallowed up, and have only owed their preservation to +other canoes, which were lighter. I have, myself, found it very +difficult to get away from this attractive power, with six men, and +great exertion, though we did not appear to be in any danger of +sinking.</p> + +<p>Over against this is a very high, rocky ridge, on the South side, called +Marten Portage, which is but twenty paces long, and separated from the +Perche Portage, which is four hundred and eighty paces, by a mud pond, +covered with white lilies. From hence the course is on the lake of the +same name, West-South-West three miles to the height of land, where the +waters of the Dove or Pigeon River terminate, and which is one of the +sources of the great St. Laurence in this direction. Having carried the +canoe and lading over it, six hundred and seventy-nine paces, they +embark on the lake of Hauteur de Terre, which is in the shape of an +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxxxvi"></A>lxxxvi}</SPAN> horseshoe.<a +name="hl7" href="#hr7">[7]</a> It is entered near the curve, and left at +the extremity of the Western limb, through a very shallow channel, where the +canoe passes half loaded for thirty paces with the current, which conducts +these waters till they discharge themselves, through the succeeding lakes and +rivers, and disembogues itself, by the river Nelson, into Hudson's Bay. +The first of these is Lac de pierres a fusil, running West-South-West +seven miles long, and two wide, and making an angle at North-West one +mile more, becomes a river for half a mile, tumbling over a rock, and +forming a fall and portage, called the Escalier, of fifty-five paces; +but from hence it is neither lake or river, but possesses the character +of both, and runs between large rocks, which cause a current or rapid +for about two miles and an half, West-North-West, to the portage of the +Cheval du Bois. Here the canoe and contents are carried three hundred +and eighty paces, between rocks; and within a quarter of a mile is the +Portage des Gros Pins, which is six hundred and forty paces over a high +ridge. The opposite side of it <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"plxxxvii"></A>lxxxvii}</SPAN> is washed by a small lake three mile +round; and the course is through the East end or side of it, three +quarters of a mile North-East, where there is a rapid. An irregular +meandering channel, between rocky banks, then succeeds, for seven miles +and an half, to the Maraboeuf Lake, which extends North four miles, and +is three-quarters of a mile wide, terminating by a rapid and decharge of +one hundred and eighty paces, the rock of Saginaga being in sight, which +causes a fall of about seven feet, and a portage of fifty-five paces.</p> + +<p>Lake Saginaga takes its name from its numerous islands. Its greatest +length from East to West is about fourteen miles, with very irregular +inlets, is nowhere more than three miles wide, and terminates at the +small portage of Le Roche, of forty-three paces. From thence is a +rocky, stony passage of one mile, to Priarie Portage, which is very +improperly named, as there is no ground about it that answers to that +description, except a small spot at the embarking place at the West end: +to the East is an entire bog; and it is with great difficulty that the +lading can be landed upon stages, formed by driving piles into the mud, +and spreading branches of trees over them. The portage rises on a stony +ridge, over which the canoe and cargo must be carried for six hundred +and eleven <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="plxxxviii"></A>lxxxviii}</SPAN> +paces. This is succeeded by an embarkation on a small bay, +where the bottom is the same as has been described in the West end of +Rose Lake, and it is with great difficulty that a laden canoe is worked +over it, but it does not comprehend more than a distance of two hundred +yards. From hence the progress continues through irregular channels, +bounded by rocks, in a Westerly course for about five miles, to the +little Portage des Couteaux, of one hundred and sixty-five paces, and +the Lac des Couteaux, running about South-West by West twelve miles, and +from a quarter to two miles wide. A deep bay runs East three miles from +the West end, where it is discharged by a rapid river, and after running +two miles West, it again becomes still water. In this river are two +carrying-places, the one fifteen, and the other one hundred and ninety +paces. From this to the Portage des Carpes is one mile North-West, +leaving a narrow lake on the East that runs parallel with the Lac des +Couteaux, half its length, where there is a carrying-place, which is +used when the water in the river last mentioned is too low. The Portage +des Carpes is three hundred and ninety paces, from whence the water +spreads irregularly between rocks, five miles North-West and South-East +to the Portage of Lac Bois Blanc, which is one hundred and eighty paces. +Then follows the lake of that name, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A +NAME="plxxxix"></A>lxxxix}</SPAN> but I think improperly so called, as +the natives name it the Lac Passeau Minac Sagaigan, or lake of Dry +Berries.</p> + +<p>Before the small-pox ravaged this country, and completed, what the +Nodowasis, in their warfare, had gone far to accomplish, the destruction +of its inhabitants, the population was very numerous: this was also a +favourite part, where they made their canoes, etc., the lake abounding +in fish, the country round it being plentifully supplied with various +kinds of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the boundaries of the +water, covered with a variety of berries.</p> + +<p>When the French were in possession of this country, they had several +trading establishments on the islands and banks of this lake. Since +that period, the few people remaining, who were of the Algonquin nation, +could hardly find subsistence; game having become so scarce, that they +depended principally for food upon fish and wild rice, which grows +spontaneously in these parts.</p> + +<p>This lake is irregular in its form, and its utmost extent from East to +West is fifteen miles; a point of land, called Point au Pin, jutting +into it, divides it in two parts: it then makes a second angle at the +West end, to the lesser Portage de Bois Blanc, two hundred paces in +length. This channel is not wide, and is intercepted by several rapids +in <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxc"></A>xc}</SPAN> the course of +a mile: it runs West-North West to the Portage des Pins, over which +the canoe and lading is again carried four hundred paces. From hence +the channel is also intercepted by very dangerous rapids, for two +miles Westerly, to the point of Pointe du Bois, which is two +hundred and eighty paces. Then succeeds the portage of La Croche, +one mile more, where the carrying-place is eighty paces, and is followed +by an embarkation on that lake, which takes its name from its figure. +It extends eighteen miles, in a meandering form, and in a westerly +direction; it is in general very narrow, and at about two-thirds of its +length becomes very contracted, with a strong current.</p> + +<p>Within three miles of the last Portage is a remarkable rock, with a +smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts, which hang over +the water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great number of arrows +have been shot, which is said to have been done by a war party of the +Nadowasis or Sieux, who had done much mischief in this country, and left +these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that, +notwithstanding its lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inaccessible to +their enemies.</p> + +<p>Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage de Rideau, four hundred paces +long, and derives its name from the appearance of the <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pxci"></A>xci}</SPAN> water, falling +over a rock of upwards of thirty feet. Several rapids succeed, with +intervals of still water, for about three miles to the Flacon portage, +which is very difficult, is four hundred paces long, and leads to the +Lake of La Croix, so named from its shape. It runs about North-West +eighteen miles to the Beaver Dam, and then sinks into a deep bay nearly +East. The course to the Portage is West by North for sixteen miles more +from the Beaver Dam, and into the East bay is a road which was +frequented by the French, and followed through lakes and rivers until +they came to Lake Superior by the river Caministiquia, thirty miles East +of the Grande Portage.</p> + +<p>Portage la Croix is six hundred paces long: to the next portage is a +quarter of a mile, and its length is forty paces; the river winding four +miles to Vermillion Lake, which runs six or seven miles +North-North-West, and by a narrow strait communicates with Lake +Namaycan, which takes its name from a particular place at the foot of a +fall, where the natives spear sturgeon: Its course is about +North-North-West and South-South-East, with a bay running East, that +gives it the form of a triangle: its length is about sixteen miles to +the Nouvelle Portage.</p> + +<p>The discharge of the lake is from a bay on the left, and the portage +one hundred +eighty <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxcii"></A>xcii}</SPAN> paces, to +which succeeds a very small river, from whence there is but a short +distance to the next Nouvelle Portage, three hundred and twenty paces +long. It is then necessary to embark on a swamp, or overflowed country, +where wild rice grows in great abundance. There is a channel or small +river in the centre of this swamp, which is kept with difficulty, and +runs South and North one mile and a half. With deepening water, the +course continues North-North-West one mile to the Chaudiere Portage, +which is caused by the discharge of the waters running on the left of +the road from Lake Namaycan, which used to be the common route, but that +which I have described is the safest as well as shortest. From hence +there is some current though the water is wide spread, and its course +about North by West three miles and an half to the Lac de la Pluie, +which lies nearly East and West; from thence about fifteen miles is a +narrow strait that divides the lake into two unequal parts, from whence +to its discharge is a distance of twenty-four miles. There is a deep +bay running North-West on the right, that is not included, and is +remarkable for furnishing the natives with a kind of soft, red stone, of +which they make their pipes; it also affords an excellent fishery both +in the summer and winter; and from it is an easy, safe, and short road +to the Lac du Bois, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxciii"></A>xciii}</SPAN> (which I shall mention presently) for the +Indians to pass in their small canoes, through a small lake and on a +small river, whose banks furnish abundance of wild rice. The discharge +of this lake is called Lac de la Pluie River, at whose entrance there is +a rapid, below which is a fine bay, where there had been an extensive +picketed fort and building when possessed by the French: the site of it +is at present a beautiful meadow, surrounded with groves of oaks. From +hence there is a strong current for two miles, where the water falls +over a rock twenty feet, and, from the consequent turbulence of the +water, the carrying-place, which is three hundred and twenty paces long, +derives the name of Chaudiere. Two miles onward is the present trading +establishment, situated on an high bank on the North side of the river, +in 48. 37. North latitude.</p> + +<p>Here the people from Montreal come to meet those who arrive from the +Athabasca country, as has been already described, and exchange lading +with them. This is also the residence of the first chief, or Sachem, of +all the Algonquin tribes, inhabiting the different parts of this +country. He is by distinction called Nectam, which implies personal +preeminence. Here also the elders meet in council to treat of peace or +war.</p> + +<p>This is one of the finest rivers in the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxciv"></A>xciv}</SPAN> North-West, and runs a course +West and East one hundred and twenty computed miles; but in taking its +course and distance minutely I make it only eighty. Its banks are +covered with a rich soil, particularly to the North, which, in many +parts, are clothed with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, the +pine, and the cedar. The Southern bank is not so elevated, and displays +the maple, the white birch, and the cedar, with the spruce, the alder, +and various underwood. Its waters abound in fish, particularly the +sturgeon, which the natives both spear and take with drag-nets. But +notwithstanding the promise of this soil, the Indians do not attend to +its cultivation, though they are not ignorant of the common process, and +are fond of the Indian corn, when they can get it from us.</p> + +<p>Though the soil at the fort is a stiff clay, there is a garden, which, +unassisted as it is by manure, or any particular attention, is tolerably +productive.</p> + +<p>We now proceed to mention the Lac du Bois, into which this river +discharges itself in latitude 49. North, and was formerly famous for the +richness of its banks and waters, which abounded with whatever was +necessary to a savage life. The French had several settlements in and +about it; but it might be almost concluded, that some fatal <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pxcv"></A>xcv}</SPAN> circumstance +had destroyed the game, as war and the small-pox had diminished the +inhabitants, it having been very unproductive in animals since the +British subjects have been engaged in travelling through it; though it +now appears to be recovering its pristine state. The few Indians who +inhabit it might live very comfortably, if they were not so immoderately +fond of spirituous liquors.</p> + +<p>This lake is also rendered remarkable, in consequence of the Americans +having named it as the spot, from which a line of boundary, between them +and British America, was to run West, until it struck the Mississippi: +which, however, can never happen, as the North-West part of the Lac du +Bois is in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94.31. West, and the +Northernmost branch of the source of the Mississippi is in latitude +47. 38. North, and longitude 95. 6. West, ascertained by Mr. Thomson, +astronomer to the North-West Company, who was sent expressly for that +purpose in the spring of 1798. He, in the same year, determined the +Northern bend of the Mississoury to be in latitude 47. 32. North, and +longitude 101. 25. West; and, according to the Indian accounts, it runs +to the south of West, so that if the Mississoury were even to be +considered as the Mississippi, no Western line could strike it.</p> + +<p>It does not appear to me to be clearly <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pxcvi"></A>xcvi}</SPAN> determined what course the Line +is to take, or from what part of Lake Superior it strikes through the +country to the Lac du Bois: were it to follow the principal waters to +their source, it ought to keep through Lake Superior to the River +St. Louis, and follow that river to its source; close to which is the +source of the waters falling into the river of Lac la Pluie, which is a +common route of the Indians to the Lac du Bois; the St. Louis passes +within a short distance of a branch of the Mississippi, where it becomes +navigable for canoes. This will appear more evident from consulting the +map: and if the navigation of the Mississippi is considered as of any +consequence by this country, from that part of the globe, such is the +nearest way to get at it.</p> + +<p>But to return to our narrative. The Lac du Bois is, as far as I could +learn, nearly round, and the canoe course through the centre of it among +a cluster of islands, some of which are so extensive that they may be +taken for the mainland. The reduced course would be nearly South and +North. But following the navigating course, I make the distance +seventy-five miles, though in a direct line it would fall very short of +that length. At about two-thirds of it there is a small carrying-place, +when the water is low. The carrying-place out of the Lake is on the +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxcvii"></A>xcvii}</SPAN> island and named +Portage du Rat, in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94. 15. West; +it is about fifty paces long. The lake discharges itself at both ends of +this island, and forms the River Winipic, which is a large body of water, +interspersed with numerous islands, causing various channels and interruptions +of portages and rapids. In some parts it has the appearance of lakes, with +steady currents; I estimate its winding course to the Dalles eight miles; to +the Grand Decharge twenty-five miles and an half, which is a long +carrying-place for the goods; from thence to the little Decharge one +mile and an half; to the Terre Jaune Portage two miles and an half; then +to its galet seventy yards; two miles and three quarters to the Terre +Blanche, near which is a fall of from four to five feet; three miles and +an half to Portage de L'Isle, where there is a trading-post, and, about +eleven miles, on the north shore, a trading establishment, which is the +road in boats, to Albany River, and from thence to Hudson's-Bay. There +is also a communication with Lake Superior, through what is called the +Nipigan country, which enters that Lake about thirty-five leagues East +of the Grande Portage. In short, the country is so broken by lakes and +rivers, that people may find their way in canoes in any direction they +please. It is now four miles <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pxcviii" > +</A>xcviii}</SPAN> to Portage de L'Isle, which is but short, +though several canoes have been lost in attempting to run the rapid. +From thence it is twenty-six miles to Jacob's Falls, which are about +fifteen feet high; and six miles and an half to the woody point; forty +yards from which is another Portage. They both form an high fall, but +not perpendicular. From thence to another galet, or rock Portage, is +about two miles, which is one continual rapid and cascade; and about two +miles further is the Chute a l'Esclave, which is upward of thirty feet. +The Portage is long, through a point covered with wood: it is six miles +and an half more to the barrier, and ten miles to the Grand Rapid. From +thence, on the North side, is a safe road, when the waters are high, +through small rivers and lakes, to the Lake du Bonnet, called the +Pinnawas, from the man who discovered it: to the White River, so called +from its being, for a considerable length, a succession of falls and +cataracts, is twelve miles. Here are seven portages, in so short a +space, that the whole of them are discernible at the same moment. From +this to Lake du Bonnet is fifteen miles more, and four miles across it +to the rapid. Here the Pinnawas Road joins, and from thence it is two +miles to the Galet du Lac du Bonnet; from this to the Galet du Bonnet +one mile and an half; thence to the Portage <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A +NAME="pxcix"></A>xcix}</SPAN> of the same name is three +miles. This portage is near half a league in length, and derives its +name from the custom the Indians have of crowning stones, laid in a +circle on the highest rock in the portage, with wreaths of herbage and +branches. There have been examples of men taking seven packages of +ninety pounds each, at one end of the portage, and putting them down at +the other without stopping.</p> + +<p>To this another small portage immediately succeeds, over a rock +producing a fall. From thence to the fall of Terre Blanche is two miles +and an half; to the first portage Des Eaux qui Remuent is three miles; +to the next, of the same name, is but a few yards distant; to the third +and last, which is a Decharge, is three miles and an half; and from this +to the last Portage of the river, one mile and an half; and to the +establishment, or provision house, is two miles and an half. Here also +the French had their principal inland depot, and got their canoes made. +It is here that the present traders, going to great distances, and where +provision is difficult to procure, receive a supply to carry them to the +Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior. From the establishment to the entrance of +Lake Winipic, is four miles and an half, latitude 50. 37. North.</p> + +<p>The country, soil, produce, and climate, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A +NAME="pc"></A>c}</SPAN> from Lake Superior to this +place, bear a general resemblance, with a predominance of rock and +water: the former is of the granite kind. Where there is any soil it is +well covered with wood, such as oak, elm, ash of different kinds, maple +of two kinds, pines of various descriptions, among which are what I call +the cypress, with the hickory, ironwood, laird, poplar, cedar, black and +white birch, etc., etc. Vast quantities of wild rice are seen +throughout the country, which the natives collect in the month of August +for their winter stores.<a name="hl8" href="#hr8">[8]</a> To the North +of fifty degrees it is hardly known, or at least does not come to maturity. +</p> + +<p>Lake Winipic is the great reservoir of several large rivers, and +discharges itself by the River Nelson into Hudson's Bay. The first in +rotation, next to that I have just described, is the Assiniboin, or Red +River, which at the distance of forty miles coastwise, disembogues on +the south west side of the Lake Winipic. It alternately receives those +two denominations from its dividing, at the distance of about thirty +miles from the lake, into two large branches; The Eastern branch, called +the Red River, runs in a Southern direction to near the head waters of +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pci"></A>ci}</SPAN> the Mississippi. +On this are two trading establishments. The country +on either side is but partially supplied with wood, and consists of +plains covered with herds of the buffalo and elk, especially on the +Western side. On the Eastern side are lakes and rivers, and the whole +country is well wooded, level, abounding in beaver, bears, moose-deer, +fallow deer, etc., etc. The natives, who are of the Algonquin tribe, +are not very numerous, and are considered as the natives of Lake +Superior. This country being near the Mississippi, is also inhabited by +the Nadowasis, who are the natural enemies of the former; the head of +the water being the war-line, they are in a continual state of +hostility; and though the Algonquins are equally brave, the others +generally out-number them; it is very probable, therefore, that if the +latter continue to venture out of the woods, which form their only +protection, they will soon be extirpated. There is not, perhaps, a +finer country in the world for the residence of uncivilised man, than +that which occupies the space between this river and Lake Superior. It +abounds in every thing necessary to the wants and comforts of such a +people. Fish, venison, and fowl, with wild rice, are in great plenty; +while, at the same time, their subsistence requires that bodily exercise +so necessary to health and vigour.</p> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcii"></A>cii}</SPAN> <p>This great extent +of country was formerly very populous, but from the information I received, +the aggregate of its inhabitants does not exceed three hundred warriors; +and, among the few whom I saw, it appeared to me that the widows were more +numerous than the men. The raccoon is a native of this country, but is +seldom found to the Northward of it.</p> + +<p>The other branch is called after the tribe of the Nadowasis, who here go +by the name of Assiniboins, and are the principal inhabitants of it. It +runs from the North-North-West, and in the latitude of 51. 15. West, and +longitude 103. 20., rising in the same mountains as the river Dauphin, +of which I shall speak in due order. They must have separated from +their nation at a time beyond our knowledge, and live in peace with the +Algonquins and Knisteneaux.</p> + +<p>The country between this and the Red River, is almost a continual plain +to the Mississoury. The soil is sand and gravel, with a slight +intermixture of earth, and produces a short grass. Trees are very rare; +nor are there on the banks of the river sufficient, except in particular +spots, to build houses and supply fire-wood for the trading +establishments, of which there are four principal ones. Both these +rivers are navigable for canoes to their source, without a fall; though +in some <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pciii"></A>ciii}</SPAN> +parts there are rapids, caused by occasional beds of limestone, +and gravel; but in general they have a sandy bottom.</p> + +<p>The Assiniboins, and some of the Fall or Big-bellied Indians, are the +principal inhabitants of this country, and border on the river, +occupying the centre part of it; that next Lake Winipic, and about its +source, being the station of the Algonquins and Knisteneaux, who have +chosen it in preference to their own country. They do not exceed five +hundred families. They are not beaver hunters, which accounts for their +allowing the division just mentioned, as the lower and upper parts of +this river have those animals, which are not found in the intermediate +district. They confine themselves to hunting the buffalo, and trapping +wolves, which cover the country. What they do not want of the former +for raiment and food, they sometimes make into pemmican, or pounded +meat, while they melt the fat, and prepare the skins in their hair, for +winter. The wolves they never eat, but produce a tallow from their fat, +and prepare their skins; all which they bring to exchange for arms and +ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives, and various baubles, with those who go +to traffic in their country.</p> + +<p>The Algonquins, and the Knisteneaux, on the contrary, attend to the +fur-hunting, so that they acquire the additional articles of <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pciv"></A>civ}</SPAN> cloth, blankets, etc., but their +passion for rum often puts it out of their power to supply themselves with +real necessaries.</p> + +<p>The next river of magnitude is the river Dauphin, which empties itself +at the head of St. Martin's Bay, on the West side of the Lake Winipic, +latitude nearly 52. 15. North, taking its source in the same mountains +as the last-mentioned river, as well as the Swan and Red-Deer rivers, +the latter passing through the lake of the same name, as well as the +former, and both continuing their course through the Manitoba Lake, +which, from thence, runs parallel with Lake Winipic, to within nine +miles of the Red River, and by what is called the river Dauphin, +disembogues its waters, as already described, into that lake. These +rivers are very rapid, and interrupted by falls, etc., the bed being +generally rocky. All this country, to the South branch of the +Saskatchiwine, abounds in beaver, moose-deer, fallow-deer, elks, bears, +buffaloes, etc. The soil is good, and wherever any attempts have been +made to raise the esculent plants, etc., it has been found productive.</p> + +<p>On these waters are three principal forts for trade. Fort Dauphin, +which was established by the French before the conquest. Red-Deer +River, and Swan-River Forts, with occasional detached posts from these. +The <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcv"></A>cv}</SPAN> +inhabitants are the Knisteneaux, from the North of Lake Winipic; and +Algonquins from the country between the Red River and Lake Superior; and +some from the Rainy Lake: but as they are not fixed inhabitants, their +number cannot be determined: they do not, however, at any time exceed +two hundred warriors. In general they are good hunters. There is no +other considerable river except the Saskatchiwine, which I shall mention +presently, that empties itself into the Lake Winipic.</p> + +<p>Those on the North side are inconsiderable, owing to the comparative +vicinity of the high land that separates the waters coming this way, +from those discharging into Hudson's Bay. The course of the lake is +about West-North-West and South-South-East, and the East end of it is in +50. 37. North. It contracts at about a quarter of its length to a +strait, in latitude 51. 45., and is no more than two miles broad, where +the South shore is gained through islands, and crossing various bays to +the discharge of the Saskatchiwine, in latitude 53. 15. This lake, in +common with those of this country, is bounded on the North with banks of +black and grey rock, and on the South by a low level country, +occasionally interrupted with a ridge or bank of lime-stones, lying in +stratas, and rising to the perpendicular height of from <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pcvi"></A>cvi}</SPAN> twenty to forty feet; +these are covered with a small quantity of earth, forming a level +surface, which bears timber, but of a moderate growth, and declines to a +swamp. Where the banks are low, it is evident in many places that the +waters are withdrawn, and never rise to those heights which were +formerly washed by them.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants who are found along this lake are of the Knisteneaux and +Algonquin tribes, and but few in number, though game is not scarce, and +there is fish in great abundance. The black bass is found there, and no +further West; and beyond it no maple trees are seen, either hard or +soft.</p> + +<p>On entering the Saskatchiwine, in the course of a few miles, the great +rapid interrupts the passage. It is about three miles long. Through +the greatest part of it the canoe is towed, half or full laden, +according to the state of the waters: the canoe and its contents are +then carried one thousand one hundred paces. The channel here is near a +mile wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of rocks that traverse the +river. The South bank is very high, rising upwards of fifty feet, of +the same rock as seen on the South side of the Lake Winipic, and the +North is not more than a third of that height. There is an excellent +sturgeon-fishery at the foot of this cascade, and vast numbers of +pelicans, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcvii"></A>cvii}</SPAN> +cormorants, etc., frequent it, where they watch to seize the +fish that may be killed or disabled by the force of the waters.</p> + +<p>About two miles from this Portage the navigation is again interrupted by +the Portage of the Roche Rouge, which is an hundred yards long; and a +mile and an half from thence the river is barred by a range of islands, +forming rapids between them; and through these it is the same distance +to the rapid of Lake Travers, which is four miles right across, and +eight miles in length. Then succeeds the Grande Decharge, and several +rapids, for four miles to the Cedar Lake, which is entered through a +small channel on the left, formed by an island, as going round it would +occasion loss of time. In this distance banks of rocks (such as have +already been described) appear at intervals on, either side; the rest of +the country is low. This is the case along the South bank of the lake +and the islands, while the North side, which is very uncommon, is level +throughout. This lake runs first West four miles, then as much more +West-South-West, across a deep bay on the right, then six miles to the +Point de Lievre, and across another bay again on the right; then +North-West eight miles, across a still deeper hay on the right; and +seven miles parallel with the North coast, North-North-West through +islands, five miles more <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcviii"></A>cviii}</SPAN> +to Fort Bourbon,<a name="hl9" href="#hr9">[9]</a> situated on a small island, +dividing this from Mud Lake.</p> + +<p>The Cedar Lake is from four to twelve miles wide, exclusive, of the +bays. Its banks are covered with wood, and abound in game, and its +waters produce plenty of fish, particularly the sturgeon. The Mud Lake, +and the neighbourhood of the Fort Bourbon, abound with geese, ducks, +swans, etc., and was formerly remarkable for a vast number of martens, +of which it cannot now boast but a very small proportion.</p> + +<p>The Mud Lake must have formerly been a part of the Cedar Lake, but the +immense quantity of earth and sand, brought down by the Saskatchiwine, +has filled up this part of it for a circumference whose diameter is at +least fifteen or twenty miles: part of which space is still covered with +a few feet of water, but the greatest proportion is shaded with large +trees, such as the liard, the swamp-ash, and the willow. This land +consists of many islands, which consequently form various channels, +several of which are occasionally dry, and bearing young wood. It is, +indeed, more than probable that this river will, in the course of time, +convert the whole of the Cedar Lake into a forest. To the North-West +the cedar is not to be found.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcix"></A>cix}</SPAN> From this lake +the Saskatchiwine may be considered as navigable to near its source in +the rocky mountains, for canoes, and without a carrying-place, making a +great bend to Cumberland House, on Sturgeon Lake. From the confluence +of its North and South branches its course is Westerly; spreading +itself, it receives several tributary streams, and encompasses a large +tract of country, which is level, particularly along the South branch, +but is little known. Beaver, and other animals, whose furs are +valuable, are amongst the inhabitants of the North-West branch, and the +plains are covered with buffaloes, wolves, and small foxes; particularly +about the South branch, which, however, has of late claimed some +attention, as it is now understood, that where the plains terminate +towards the rocky mountain, there is a space of hilly country clothed +with wood, and inhabited also by animals of the fur kind. This has been +actually determined to be the case towards the head of the North branch, +where the trade has been carried to about the latitude 54. North, and +longitude 114. 30. West. The bed and banks of the latter, in some few +places, discover a stratum of free-stone; but, in general, they are +composed of earth and sand. The plains are sand and gravel, covered +with fine grass, and mixed with a small quantity of vegetable earth, +This is <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcx"></A>cx}</SPAN> particularly +observable along the North branch, the West side of which is covered +with wood. +</p> + +<p>There are on this river five principal factories for the convenience +of trade with the natives. Nepawi House, South-branch House, +Fort-George House, Fort-Augustus House, and Upper Establishment. There +have been many others, which, from various causes, have been changed for +these, while there are occasionally others depending on each of +them.</p> + +<p>The inhabitants, from the information I could obtain, are as follow:</p> + +<p>At Nepawi and South-Branch House, about thirty tents of Knisteneaux, +or ninety warriors; and sixty tents of Stone Indians, or Assiniboins, +who are their neighbours, and are equal to two hundred men: their +hunting ground extends upwards to about the Eagle Hills. Next to them +are those who trade at Forts George and Augustus, and are about eighty +tents or upwards of Knisteneaux: on either side of the river, their +number may be two hundred. In the same country are one hundred and +forty tents of Stone Indians: not quite half of them inhabit the West +woody country; the others never leave the plains, and their numbers +cannot be less than four hundred and fifty men. At the Southern +Head-waters of the North-branch dwells a tribe called Sarsees, +consisting of about +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxi"></A>cxi}</SPAN> thirty-five tents, +or one hundred and twenty men. Opposite to those Eastward, on the +head-waters of the South Branch, are the Picaneaux, to the number of from +twelve to fifteen hundred men. Next to them, on the same water, +are the Blood-Indians, of the same nation as the last, to the number +of about fifty tents, or two hundred and fifty men. From them +downwards extend the Black-Feet Indians, of the same nation as the two +last tribes: their number may be eight hundred men. Next to them, +and who extend to the confluence of the South and North branch, are the +Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, who may amount to about six hundred +warriors.</p> + +<p>Of all these different tribes, those who inhabit the broken country on +the North-West side, and the source of the North branch, are +beaver-hunters; the others deal in provisions, wolf, buffalo, and fox +skins; and many people on the South branch do not trouble themselves to +come near the trading establishments. Those who do, choose such +establishments as are next to their country. The Stone-Indians here, +are the same people as the Stone-Indians, or Assiniboins, who inhabit +the river of that name already described, and both are detached tribes +from the Nadowasis, who inhabit the Western side of the Mississippi, and +lower part of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxii"></A>cxii}</SPAN> +Missisoury. The Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are +from the South-Eastward also, and of a people who inhabit the plains +from the North bend of the last mentioned river, latitude 47. +32. North, longitude 101. 25. West, to the South bend of the Assiniboin +River, to the number of seven hundred men. Some of them occasionally +come to the latter river to exchange dressed buffalo robes and bad +wolf-skins for articles of no great value.</p> + +<p>The Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood-Indians, are a distinct people, +speak a language of their own, and, I have reason to think, are +travelling North-West, as well as the others just mentioned: nor have I +heard of any Indians with whose language that which they speak has any +affinity.—They are the people who deal in horses, and take them upon +the war-parties towards Mexico; from which, it is evident, that the +country to the South-East of them consists of plains, as those animals +could not well be conducted through an hilly and woody country, +intersected by waters.</p> + +<p>The Sarsees, who are but few in number, appear from their language, to +come on the contrary from the North-West, and are of the same people as +the Rocky-Mountain Indians described in my second journal, who are a +tribe of the Chepewyans; and, as for the Knisteneaux, there is no +question of their <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxiii"></A>cxiii}</SPAN> +having been, and continuing to be, invaders of this +country, from the Eastward. Formerly, they struck terror into all the +other tribes whom they met; but now they have lost the respect that was +paid them; as those whom they formerly considered as barbarians are now +their allies, and consequently become better acquainted with them, and +have acquired the use of fire-arms. The former are still proud without +power, and affect to consider the others as their inferiors: those +consequently are extremely jealous of them, and, depending upon their +own superiority in numbers, will not submit tamely to their insults; so +that the consequences often prove fatal, and the Knisteneaux are thereby +decreasing both in power and number; spirituous liquors also tend to +their diminution, as they are instigated thereby to engage in quarrels +which frequently have the most disastrous termination among themselves.</p> + +<p>The Stone-Indians must not be considered in the same point of view +respecting the Knisteneaux, for they have been generally obliged, from +various causes, to court their alliance. They, however, are not without +their disagreements, and it is sometimes very difficult to compose their +differences. These quarrels occasionally take place with the traders, +and sometimes have a tragical conclusion. They generally originate in +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxiv"></A>cxiv}</SPAN> consequence of +stealing women and horses: they have great numbers of the latter +throughout their plains, which are brought, as has been observed, +from the Spanish settlements in Mexico; and many of them have been seen +even in the back parts of this country, branded with the initials of +their original owners' names. Those horses are distinctly employed as +beasts of burden, and to chase the buffalo. The former are not +considered as being of much value, as they may be purchased for a gun, +which costs no more than twenty-one shillings in Great Britain. Many of +the hunters cannot be purchased with ten, the comparative value of which +exceeds the property of any native.</p> + +<p>Of these useful animals no care whatever is taken, as when they are no +longer employed, they are turned loose winter and summer to provide for +themselves. Here, it is to be observed, that the country, in general, +on the West and North side of this great river, is broken by the lakes +and rivers with small intervening plains, where the soil is good, and +the grass grows to some length. To these the male buffaloes resort for +the winter, and if it be very severe, the females also are obliged to +leave the plains.</p> + +<p>But to return to the route by which the progress West and North is made +through this continent.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxv"></A>cxv}</SPAN>We leave the +Saskatchiwine<a name="hl10" href="#hr10">[10]</a> by entering the river +which forms the discharge of the Sturgeon Lake, on whose East bank is situated +Cumberland house, in latitude 53. 56. North, longitude 102. 15. The +distance between the entrance and Cumberland house is estimated at +twenty miles.</p> + +<p>It is very evident that the mud which is carried down by the +Saskatchiwine River, has formed the land that lies between it and the +lake, for the distance of upwards of twenty miles in the line of the +river, which is inundated during one half of the summer, though covered +with wood. This lake forms an irregular horse-shoe, one side of which +runs to the North-West, and bears the name of Pine-Island Lake, and the +other, known by the name already mentioned, runs to the East of North, +and is the largest: its length is about twenty-seven miles, and its +greatest breadth about six miles. The North side of the latter is the +same kind of rock as that described in Lake Winipic, on the West shore. +In latitude 54. 16. North, the Sturgeon-Weir River discharges itself +into this lake, and its bed <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxvi"></A>cxvi}</SPAN> +appears to be of the same kind of rock, and +is almost a continual rapid. Its direct course is about West by North, +and with its windings, is about thirty miles. It takes its waters into +the Beaver Lake the South-West side of which consists of the same rock +lying in thin stratas: the route then proceeds from island to island for +about twelve miles, and along the North shore, for four miles more, the +whole being a North-West course to the entrance of a river, in latitude +54. 32. North. The lake, for this distance, is about four or five miles +wide, and abounds with fish common to the country. The part of it upon +the right of that which has been described, appears more considerable. +The islands are rocky, and the lake itself surrounded by rocks. The +communication from hence to the Bouleau Lake, alternately narrows into +rivers and spreads into small lakes. The interruptions are, the Pente +Portage, which is succeeded by the Grand Rapid, where there is a +Decharge, the Carp Portage, the Bouleau Portage in latitude +54. 50. North, including a distance, together with the windings, of +thirty-four miles, in a Westerly direction. The Lake de Bouleau then +follows. This lake might with greater propriety be denominated a canal, +as it is not more than a mile in breadth. Its course is rather to the +East of North for twelve miles to Portage de <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A +NAME="pcxvii"></A>cxvii}</SPAN> L'Isle. From thence there +is still water to Portage d'Epinettes, except an adjoining rapid. The +distance is not more than four miles Westerly. After crossing this +Portage, it is not more than two miles to Lake Miron, which is in +latitude 55. 7. North. Its length is about twelve miles, and its +breadth irregular, from two to ten miles. It is only separated from +Lake du Chitique, or Pelican Lake, by a short, narrow, and small strait. +That lake is not more than seven miles long, and its course about +North-West. The Lake des Bois then succeeds, the passage to which is +through small lakes, separated by falls and rapids. The first is a +Decharge: then follow the three galets, in immediate succession. From +hence Lake des Bois runs about twenty-one miles. Its course is +South-South-East, and North-North-West, and is full of islands. The +passage continues through an intricate, narrow, winding, and shallow +channel for eight miles. The interruptions in this distance are +frequent, but depend much on the state of the waters. Having passed +them, it is necessary to cross the Portage de Traite, or, as it is +called by the Indians, Athiquisipichigan Ouinigam, or the Portage of the +Stretched Frog Skin, to the Missinipi. The waters already described +discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, and augment those of the river +Nelson. These <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxviii"></A>cxviii}</SPAN> +which we are now entering are called the Missinipi, or great Churchill River. +</p> + +<p>All the country to the South and East of this, within the line of the +progress that has been described, is interspersed by lakes, hills, and +rivers, and is full or animals, of the fur-kind, as well as the +moose-deer. Its inhabitants are the Knisteneaux Indians, who are called +by the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, at York, their +home-guards.</p> + +<p>The traders from Canada succeeded for several years in getting the +largest proportion of their furs, till the year 1793, when the servants +of that company thought proper to send people amongst them, (and why +they did not do it before is best known to themselves), for the purpose +of trade, and securing their credits, which the Indians were apt to +forget. From the short distance they had to come, and the quantity of +goods they supplied, the trade has, in a great measure, reverted to +them, as the merchants from Canada could not meet them upon equal terms. +What added to the loss of the latter, was the murder of one of their +traders by the Indians, about this period. Of these people not above +eighty men have been known to the traders from Canada, but they consist +of a much greater number.</p> + +<p>The Portage de Traite, as has been already hinted, received its name +from Mr. Joseph <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxix"></A>cxix}</SPAN> +Frobisher, who penetrated into this part of the country from Canada, as +early as the years 1774 and 1775, where he met with the Indians in the +spring, on their way to Churchill, according to annual custom, with +their canoes full of valuable furs. They traded with him for as many of +them as his canoes could carry, and in consequence of this transaction, +the Portage received and has since retained its present appellation. He +also denominated these waters the English River. The Missinipi is the +name which it received from the Knisteneaux, when they first came to +this country, and either destroyed or drove back the natives, whom they +held in great contempt, on many accounts, but particularly for their +ignorance in hunting the beaver, as well as in preparing, stretching, +and drying the skins of those animals. And as a sign of their derision, +they stretched the skin of a frog, and hung it up at the Portage. This +was, at that time, the utmost extent of their conquest or war-faring +progress West, and is in latitude 55. 25. North, and longitude +103. 45. West. The river here, which bears the appearance of a lake, +takes its name from the Portage, and is full of islands. It runs from +East to West about sixteen miles, and is from four to five miles broad. +Then succeed falls and cascades which form what is called the +grand <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxx"></A>cxx}</SPAN> rapid. From +thence there is a succession of small lakes and rivers, interrupted by +rapids and falls, viz., the Portage de Bareel, the Portage de L'Isle, +and that of the Rapid River. The course is twenty miles from +East-South-East to North-North-West. The Rapid-River Lake then runs West +five miles, and is of an oval form. The rapid river is the discharge of +Lake la Ronge, where there has been an establishment for trade from the +year 1782. Since the small-pox ravaged these parts, there have been but +few inhabitants; these are of the Knisteneaux tribe, and do not exceed +thirty men. The direct navigation continues to be through rivers and +canals, interrupted by rapids; and the distance to the first Decharge is +four miles, in a Westerly direction. Then follows Lake de la Montagne, +which runs South-South-West three miles and an half, then North six +miles, through narrow channels, formed by islands, and continues +North-North-West five miles, to the portage of the same name, which is +no sooner crossed, than another appears in sight, leading to the Otter +Lake, from whence it is nine miles Westerly to the Otter Portage, in +latitude 55. 39. Between this and the Portage du Diable, are several +rapids, and the distance three miles and an half. Then succeeds the +lake of the same name, running from South-East to +North-West, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxi"></A>cxxi}</SPAN> five +miles, and West four miles and an half.</p> + +<p>There is then a succession of small lakes, rapids, and falls, +producing the Portage des Ecors, Portage du Galet, and Portage des +Morts, the whole comprehending a distance of six miles, to the lake of +the latter name. On the left side is a point covered with human bones, +the relics of the small-pox; which circumstance gave the Portage and the +lake this melancholy denomination. Its course is South-West fifteen +miles, while its breadth does not exceed three miles. From thence a +rapid river leads to Portage de Hallier, which is followed by Lake de +Isle d'Ours: it is, however, improperly called a lake, as it contains +frequent impediments amongst its islands, from rapids. There is a very +dangerous one about the centre of it, which is named the Rapid qui ne +parle point, or that never speaks, from its silent whirlpool-motion. In +some of the whirlpools the suction is so powerful, that they are +carefully avoided. At some distance from the silent rapid is a narrow +strait, where the Indians have painted red figures on the face of a +rock, and where it was their custom formerly to make an offering of some +of the articles which they had with them, in their way to and from +Churchill. The course of this lake, which is very meandering, may be +estimated <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxii"></A>cxxii}</SPAN> at +thirty-eight miles, and is terminated by the Portage du Canot Tourner, +from the danger to which those are subject who venture to run this +rapid. From thence a river of one mile and an half North-West course +leads to the Portage de Bouleau, and in about half a mile to Portage des +Epingles, so called from the sharpness of its stones. Then follows the +Lake des Souris, the direction across which is amongst islands, +North-West by West six miles. In this traverse is an island, which is +remarkable for a very large stone, in the form of a bear, on which the +natives have painted the head and snout of that animal; and here they +also were formerly accustomed to offer sacrifices. This lake is +separated only by a narrow strait from the Lake du Serpent, which runs +North-North-West seven miles, to a narrow channel, that connects it with +another lake, bearing the same name, and running the same course for +eleven miles, when the rapid of the same denomination is entered on the +West side of the lake. It is to be remarked here, that for about three +or four miles on the North-West side of this lake, there is an high bank +of clay and sand, clothed with cypress trees, a circumstance which is +not observable on any lakes hitherto mentioned, as they are bounded, +particularly on the North, by black and grey rocks. It may +also <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxiii"></A>cxxiii}</SPAN> be +considered as a most extraordinary circumstance, that the Chepewyans go +North-West from hence to the barren grounds, which are their own +country, without the assistance of canoes; as it is well known that in +every other part which has been described, from Cumberland House, the +country is broken on either side of the direction to a great extent: so +that a traveller could not go at right angles with any of the waters +already mentioned, without meeting with others in every eight or ten +miles. This will also be found to be very much the case in proceeding +to Portage la Loche.</p> + +<p>The last mentioned rapid is upwards of three miles long, North-West +by West; there is, however, no carrying, as the line and poles are +sufficient to drag and set the canoes against the current. Lake Croche +is then crossed in a Westerly direction of six miles, though its whole +length may be twice that distance: after which it contracts to a river +that runs Westerly for ten miles, when it forms a bend, which is left to +the South, and entering a portion of its waters called the Grass River, +whose meandering course is about six miles, but in a direct line not +more than half that length, where it receives its waters from the great +river, which then runs Westerly eleven miles before it forms the Knee +Lake, whose direction is to the +North <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxiv"></A>cxxiv}</SPAN> of West. +It is full of islands for eighteen miles, and its greatest apparent +breadth is not more than five miles. The portage of the same name is +several hundred yards long, and over large stones. Its latitude is +55. 50. and longitude 106. 30. Two miles further North is the +commencement of the Croche Rapid, which is a succession of cascades for +about three miles, making a bend due South to the Lake du Primeau, whose +course is various, and through islands, to the distance of about fifteen +miles. The banks of this lake are low, stony, and marshy, whose grass +and rushes afford shelter and food to great numbers of wild fowl. At +its Western extremity is Portage la Puise, from whence the river takes a +meandering course, widening and contracting at intervals, and is much +interrupted by rapids. After a Westerly course of twenty miles, it +reaches Portage Pellet. From hence, in the course of seven miles, are +three rapids, to which succeeds the Shagoina Lake, which may be eighteen +miles in circumference. Then Shagoina strait and rapid lead into the +Lake of Isle a la Crosse, in which the course is South twenty miles, and +South-South-West fourteen miles, to the Point au Sable; opposite to +which is the discharge of the Beaver-River, bearing South six miles: the +lake in the distance run, does not exceed twelve miles in its +greatest <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxv"></A>cxxv}</SPAN> +breadth. It now turns West-South-West, the Isle a la Crosse being on +the South, and the main land on the North; and it clears the one and the +other in the distance of three miles, the water presenting an open +horizon to right and left; that on the left formed by a deep narrow bay, +about ten leagues in depth; and that to the right by what is called la +Riviere Creuse, or Deep River, being a canal of still water, which is +here four miles wide. On following the last course, Isle a la Crosse +Fort appears on a low isthmus, at the distance of five miles, and is in +latitude 55. 25. North, and longitude 107. 48. West.</p> + +<p>This lake and fort take their names from the island just mentioned, +which, as has been already observed, received its denomination from the +game of the cross, which forms a principal amusement among the natives.</p> + +<p>The situation of this lake, the abundance of the finest fish in the +world to be found in its waters, the richness of its surrounding banks +and forests, in moose and fallow deer, with the vast numbers of the +smaller tribes of animals, whose skins are precious, and the numerous +flocks of wild fowl that frequent it in the spring and fall, make it a +most desirable spot for the constant residence of some, and the +occasional rendezvous of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pcxxvi"></A>cxxvi}</SPAN> others of the inhabitants of the country, +particularly of the Knisteneaux.</p> + +<p>Who the original people were that were driven from it, when conquered by +the Knisteneaux, is not now known, as not a single vestige remains of +them. The latter, and the Chepewyans, are the only people that have +been known here; and it is evident that the last-mentioned consider +themselves as strangers, and seldom remain longer than three or four +years, without visiting their relations and friends in the barren +grounds, which they term their native country. They were for some time +treated by the Knisteneaux as enemies; who now allow them to hunt to the +North of the track which has been described, from Fort du Traite +upwards, but when they occasionally meet them, they insist on +contributions, and frequently punish resistance with their arms. This +is sometimes done at the forts, or places of trade, but then it appears +to be a voluntary gift. A treat of rum is expected on the occasion, +which the Chepewyans on no other account ever purchase; and those only +who have had frequent intercourse with the Knisteneaux have any +inclination to drink it.</p> + +<p>When the Europeans first penetrated into this country, in 1777, the +people of both tribes were numerous, but the small-pox was fatal to them +all, so that there does not exist <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pcxxvii"></A>cxxvii}</SPAN> of the one, at present, more than +forty resident families; and the other has been from about thirty to two +hundred families. These numbers are applicable to the constant and less +ambitious inhabitants, who are satisfied with the quiet possession of a +country affording, without risk or much trouble, every thing necessary +to their comfort; for since traders have spread themselves over it, it +is no more the rendezvous of the errant Knisteneaux, part of whom used +annually to return thither from the country of the Beaver River, which +they had explored to its source in their war and hunting excursions, and +as far as the Saskatchiwine, where they sometimes met people of their +own nation, who had prosecuted similar conquests up that river. In that +country they found abundance of fish and animals, such as have been +already described, with the addition of the buffaloes, who range in the +partial patches of meadow scattered along the rivers and lakes. From +thence they returned in the spring to their friends whom they had left; +and, at the same time met with others who had penetrated with the same +designs into the Athabasca country, which will be described hereafter.</p> + +<p>The spring was the period of this joyful meeting, when their time was +occupied in feasting, dancing, and other pastimes, which <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxviii"></A>cxxviii}</SPAN> were +occasionally suspended for sacrifice, and religious solemnity: while the +narratives of their travels, and the history of their wars, amused and +animated the festival. The time of rejoicing was but short, and was +soon interrupted by the necessary preparations for their annual journey +to Churchill, to exchange their furs for such European articles as were +now become necessary to them. The shortness of the seasons, and the +great length of their way requiring the utmost despatch, the most active +men of the tribe, with their youngest women, and a few of their children +undertook the voyage, under the direction of some of their chiefs, +following the waters already described, to their discharge at Churchill +Factory, which are called, as has already been observed, the Missinipi, +or Great Waters. There they remained no longer than was sufficient to +barter their commodities, with a supernumerary day or two to gratify +themselves with the indulgence of spirituous liquors. At the same time +the inconsiderable quantity they could purchase to carry away with them, +for a regale with their friends, was held sacred, and reserved to +heighten the enjoyment of their return home, when the amusements, +festivity, and religious solemnities of the spring were repeated. The +usual time appropriated to these convivialities being completed, they +separated, to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxix"></A>cxxix}</SPAN> +pursue their different objects; and if they were determined to go to war +they made the necessary arrangements for their future operations.</p> + +<p>But we must now renew the progress of the route. It is not more than +two miles from Isle a la Crosse Fort, to a point of land which forms a +cheek of that part of the lake called the Riviere Creuse, which +preserves the breadth already mentioned for upwards of twenty miles; +then contracts to about two, for the distance of ten miles more, when it +opens to Lake Clear, which is very wide, and commands an open horizon, +keeping the West shore for six miles. The whole of the distance +mentioned is about North-West, when, by a narrow, crooked channel, +turning to the South of West, the entry is made into Lake du Boeuf, +which is contracted near the middle, by a projecting sandy point; +independent of which it may be described as from six to twelve miles in +breadth, thirty-six miles long, and in a North-West direction. At the +North-West end, in latitude 56. 8. it receives the waters of the river +la Loche, which, in the fall of the year, is very shallow, and navigated +with difficulty even by half-laden canoes. Its water is not sufficient +to form strong rapids, though from its rocky bottom the canoes are +frequently in considerable danger. Including its meanders, +the<SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxx"></A>cxxx}</SPAN> course of +this river may be computed at twenty-four miles, and receives its first +waters from the lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles long, +and six wide; into which a small river flows, sufficient to bear loaded +canoes, for about a mile and an half, where the navigation ceases; and +the canoes, with their lading, are carried over the Portage la Loche for +thirteen miles.</p> + +<p>This portage is the ridge that divides the waters which discharge +themselves into Hudson's Bay, from those that flow into the Northern +ocean, and is in the latitude 56. 20. and longitude 109. 15. West. It +runs South-West until it loses its local height between the +Saskatchiwine and Elk Rivers; close on the bank of the former, in +latitude 53. 36. North, and longitude 113. 45. West, it may be traced in +an Easterly direction toward latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude +103½. West, when it appears to take its course due North, and may +probably reach the Frozen Seas.</p> + +<p>From Lake le Souris, the banks of the rivers and lakes display a smaller +portion of solid rock. The land is low and stony, intermixed with a +light, sandy soil, and clothed with wood. That of the Beaver River is +of a more productive quality: but no part of it has ever been cultivated +by the natives or Europeans, except a small garden at the Isle +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxxi"></A>cxxxi}</SPAN> a la +Crosse, which well repaid the labour bestowed upon it.</p> + +<p>The Portage la Loche is of a level surface, in some parts abounding with +stones, but in general it is an entire sand, and covered with the +cypress, the pine, the spruce fir, and other trees natural to its soil. +Within three miles of the North-West termination, there is a small round +lake, whose diameter does not exceed a mile, and which affords a +trifling respite to the labour of carrying. Within a mile of the +termination of the Portage is a very steep precipice, whose ascent and +descent appears to be equally impracticable in any way, as it consists +of a succession of eight hills, some of which are almost perpendicular; +nevertheless, the Canadians contrive to surmount all these difficulties, +even with their canoes and lading.</p> + +<p>This precipice, which rises upwards of a thousand feet above the +plain beneath it, commands a most extensive, romantic, and ravishing +prospect. From thence the eye looks down on the course of the little +river, by some called the Swan river, and by others, the Clear-Water and +Pelican river, beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles. The +valley, which is at once refreshed and adorned by it, is about three +miles in breadth, and is confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, +displaying a most +beautiful <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxxii"></A>cxxxii}</SPAN> +intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on till the blue mist +obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered +with stately forests, relieved by promontories of the finest verdure, +where the elk and buffalo find pasture. These are contrasted by spots +where fire has destroyed the woods, and left a dreary void behind it. +Nor, when I beheld this wonderful display of uncultivated nature, was +the moving scenery of human occupation wanting to complete the picture. +From this elevated situation, I beheld my people, diminished, as it +were, to half their size, employed in pitching their tents in a charming +meadow, and among the canoes, which, being turned upon their sides, +presented their reddened bottoms in contrast with the surrounding +verdure. At the same time, the process of gumming them produced +numerous small spires of smoke, which, as they rose, enlivened the +scene, and at length blended with the larger columns that ascended from +the fires where the suppers were preparing. It was in the month of +September when I enjoyed a scene, of which I do not presume to give an +adequate description; and as it was the rutting season of the elk, the +whistling of that animal was heard in all the variety which the echoes +could afford it.</p> + +<p>This river, which waters and reflects such enchanting scenery, runs, +including its <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxxiii"></A>cxxxiii}</SPAN> +windings, upwards of eighty miles, when it discharges itself in the Elk +River, according to the denomination of the natives, but commonly called +by the white people, the Athabasca River, in latitude 56. 42. North.</p> + +<p>At a small distance from Portage la Loche, several carrying-places +interrupt the navigation of the river; about the middle of which are +some mineral springs, whose margins are covered with sulphureous +incrustations. At the junction or fork, the Elk River is about three +quarters of a mile in breadth, and runs in a steady current, sometimes +contracting, but never increasing its channel, till, after receiving +several small streams, it discharges itself into the Lake of the Hills, +in latitude 58. 36. North. At about twenty-four miles from the Fork, +are some bituminous fountains, into which a pole of twenty feet long may +be inserted without the least resistance. The bitumen is in a fluid +state, and when mixed with gum, or the resinous substance collected from +the spruce fir, serves to gum the canoes. In its heated state it emits +a smell like that of sea-coal. The banks of the river, which are there +very elevated, discover veins of the same bituminous quality. At a +small distance from the Fork, houses have been erected for the +convenience of trading with a party of the Knisteneaux, who visit the +adjacent country for the purpose of +hunting. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "pcxxxiv"></A>cxxxiv}</SPAN> At +the distance of about forty miles from the lake, is the Old +Establishment, which has been already mentioned, as formed by Mr. Pond +in the year 1778-9, and which was the only one in this part of the +world, till the year 1785. In the year 1788 it was transferred to the +Lake of the Hills, and formed on a point on its Southern side, at about +eight miles from the discharge of the river. It was named Fort +Chepewyan, and is in latitude 58. 38. North, longitude 110. 26. West, +and much better situated for trade and fishing as the people here have +recourse to water for their support.</p> + +<p>This being the place which I made my headquarters for eight years, and +from whence I took my departure, on both my expeditions, I shall give +some account of it, with the manner of carrying on the trade there, and +other circumstances connected with it.</p> + +<p>The laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie about the first of August, +do not arrive here till the latter end of September, or the beginning of +October, when a necessary proportion of them is despatched up the Peace +River to trade with the Beaver and Rocky-Mountain Indians. Others are +sent to the Slave River and Lake, or beyond them, and traffic with the +inhabitants of that country. A small part of them, if not left at the +Fork of the Elk River, return thither for +the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "pcxxxv"></A>cxxxv}</SPAN> +Knisteneaux, while the rest of the people and merchandise remain here, +to carry on trade with the Chepewyans.</p> + +<p>Here have I arrived with ninety or an hundred men without any +provision for their sustenance; for whatever quantity might have been +obtained from the natives during the summer, it could not be more than +sufficient for the people despatched to their different posts; and even +if there were a casual superfluity, it was absolutely necessary to +preserve it untouched, for the demands of the spring. The whole +dependence, therefore, of those who remained, was on the lake, and +fishing implements for the means of our support. The nets are sixty +fathom in length, when set, and contain fifteen meshes of five inches in +depth. The manner of using them is as follows: A small stone and wooden +buoy are fastened to the side-line opposite to each other, at about the +distance of two fathoms; when the net is carefully thrown into the +water, the stone sinks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at its +full extent, and it is secured in its situation by a stone at either +end. The nets are visited every day, and taken out every other day to +be cleaned and dried. This is a very ready operation when the waters +are not frozen, but when the frost has set in, and the ice has acquired +its greatest thickness, which is sometimes as much as <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxxvi"></A>cxxxvi}</SPAN> five feet, holes are cut +in it at the distance of thirty feet from each other, to the full length +of the net; one of them is larger than the rest, being generally about +four feet square, and is called the basin: by means of them, and poles +of a proportionable length, the nets are placed in and drawn out of the +water. The setting of hooks and lines is so simple an employment as to +render a description unnecessary. The white fish are the principal +object of pursuit: they spawn in the fall of the year, and, at about the +setting in of the hard frost, crowd in shoals to the shallow water, when +as many as possible are taken, in order that a portion of them may be +laid by in the frost to provide against the scarcity of winter; as, +during that season, the fish of every description decrease in the lakes, +if they do not altogether disappear. Some have supposed that during +this period they are stationary, or assume an inactive state. If there +should be any intervals of warm weather during the fall, it is necessary +to suspend the fish by the tail, though they are not so good as those +which are altogether preserved by the frost. In this state they remain +to the beginning of April, when they have been found as sweet as when +they were caught.<a name="hl11" href="#hr11">[11]</a></p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxxvii"></A>cxxxvii}</SPAN> Thus do +these voyagers live, year after year, entirely upon fish, without even +the quickening flavour of salt, or the variety of any farinaceous root +or vegetable. Salt, however, if their habits had not rendered it +unnecessary, might be obtained in this country to the Westward of the +Peace River, where it loses its name in that of the Slave River, from +the numerous salt-ponds and springs to be found there, which will supply +in any quantity, in a state of concretion, and perfectly white and +clean. When the Indians pass that way they bring a small quantity to +the fort, with other articles of traffic.</p> + +<p>During a short period of the spring and fall, great numbers of wild +fowl frequent this country, which prove a very gratifying food after +such a long privation of flesh-meat. It is remarkable, however, that +the Canadians who frequent the Peace, Saskatchiwine, and Assiniboin +rivers, and live altogether on venison, have a less healthy appearance +than those whose sustenance is obtained from the waters. At the same +time the scurvy is wholly unknown among them.</p> + +<p>In the fall of the year the natives meet the traders at the forts, +where they barter the furs or provisions which they may +have <SPAN CLASS="pagenum"> {<A NAME="pcxxxviii"></A>cxxxviii}</SPAN> +procured; they then obtain credit, and proceed to hunt the beavers, and +do not return till the beginning of the year; when they are again fitted +out in the same manner and come back the latter end of March, or the +beginning of April; They are now unwilling to repair to the beaver hunt +until the waters, are clear of ice, that they may kill them with +fire-arms, which the Chepewyans are averse to employ. The major part of +the latter return to the barren grounds, and live during the summer with +their relations and friends in the enjoyment of that plenty which is +derived from numerous herds of deer. But those of that tribe who are +most partial to these deserts, cannot remain there in winter, and they +are obliged, with the deer, to take shelter in the woods during that +rigorous season, when they contrive to kill a few beavers, and send them +by young men, to exchange for iron utensils and ammunition.</p> + +<p>Till the year 1782, the people of Athabasca sent or carried their +furs regularly to Fort Churchill, Hudson's Bay; and some of them have, +since that time, repaired thither, notwithstanding they could have +provided themselves with all the necessaries which they required. The +difference of the price set on goods here and at the factory, made it an +object with the Chepewyans to undertake a journey of five or six months, +in the +course <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxxxix"></A>cxxxix}</SPAN> of +which they were reduced to the most painful extremities, and often lost +their lives from hunger and fatigue, At present, however, this traffic +is in a great measure discontinued, as they were obliged to expend in +the course of their journey, that very ammunition which was its most +alluring object.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr1" href="#hl1">[1]</a> This might be +properly called the stock of the company, as it included, with the +expenditure of the year, the amount of the property unexpended, which +had been appropriated for the adventure of that year, and was carried on +to the account of the following adventure.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr2" href="#hl2">[2]</a> This will be +better illustrated by the following statement:—We will suppose the +goods for 1798: The orders for the goods are sent to this country 25th +October, 1796; they are shipped from London March, 1797; they arrive in +Montreal June, 1797; they are made up in the course of that summer and +winter; they are sent from Montreal May, 1798; they arrive in the Indian +country, and are exchanged for furs the following winter, 1798-99; which +furs come to Montreal September, 1799; and are shipped for London; where +they are sold in March and April, and paid for in May or June, 1800. +</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr3" href="#hl3">[3]</a> The place where +the goods alone are carried, is called a <i>Decharge</i>, and that where +goods and canoes are both transported overland, is denominated +a <i>Portage</i>.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr4" href="#hl4">[4]</a> In the year 1668, +when the first missionaries visited the South of this lake, they found +the country full of inhabitants. They relate, that about this time a +band of the Nepisingues, who were converted, emigrated to the Nipigon +country, which is to the North of Lake Superior. Few of their +descendants are now remaining, and not a trace of the religion +communicated to them is to be discovered.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr5" href="#hl5">[5]</a> Corn is the +cheapest provision that can be procured, though from the expense of +transport, the bushel costs about twenty shillings sterling, at the +Grande Portage. A man's daily allowance does not exceed ten-pence.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr6" href="#hl6">[6] </a> Here is a most +excellent fishery for white fish, which are exquisite.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr7" href="#hl7">[7]</a> The route which we +have been travelling hitherto, leads along the high rocky land or bank +of Lake Superior on the left. The face of the country offers a wild +scene of huge hills and rocks, separated by stony valleys, lakes and +ponds. Wherever there is the least soil, it is well covered with +trees.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr8" href="#hl8">[8] </a> The fruits are, +strawberries, hurtleberries, plums, and cherries, hazelnuts, +gooseberries, currents, raspberries, poires, etc.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr9" href="#hl9">[9] </a> This was also a +principal post of the French, who gave it its name.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr10" href="#hl10">[10]</a> It may be +proper to observe, that the French had two settlements upon the +Saskatchiwine, long before, and at the conquest of Canada; the first at +the Pasquia, near Carrot River, and the other at Nipawi, where they had +agricultural instruments and wheel carriages, marks of both being found +about those establishments, where the soil is excellent.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="hr11" href="#hl11">[11]</a> This fishery +requires the most unremitting attention, as the voyaging Canadians are +equally indolent, extravagant, and improvident, when left to themselves, +and rival the savages in a neglect of the morrow.</p> + +<p></p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxl"></A>cxl}</SPAN> +<center><h4>SOME ACCOUNT OF THE KNISTENEAUX INDIANS.</h4></center> + + +<p> +These people are spread over a vast extent of country. Their language +is the same as that of the people who inhabit the coast of British +America on the Atlantic, with the exception of the Esquimaux, +<a name="kl1" href="#kr1">[1]</a> and continues along the coast of +Labrador, and the gulf and banks of St. Laurence to Montreal. The line +then follows the Utawas river to its source; and continues from thence +nearly West along the highlands which divides the waters that fall into +Lake Superior and Hudson's Bay. It then proceeds till it strikes the +middle part of the river Winipic, following that water to the Lake +Winipic, to the discharge of the Saskatchiwine into it; from thence it +accompanies the latter to Fort George, when the line, striking by the +head of the Beaver river to the Elk river, runs along its banks to its +discharge in the Lake of the Hills; from which it may be carried +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxli"></A>cxli}</SPAN>back East, to the +Isle a la Crosse, and so on to Churchill by the Missinipi, The whole of +the tract between this line and Hudson's Bay and Straits (except that of +the Esquimaux in the latter), may be said to be exclusively the country of +the Knisteneaux. Some of them indeed, have penetrated further West and +South to the Red River, to the South of Lake Winipic, and the South branch +of the Saskatchiwine.</p> + +<p>They are of a moderate stature, well proportioned, and of great +activity. Examples of deformity are seldom to be seen among them. +Their complexion is of a copper colour, and their hair black, which is +common to all the natives of North America. It is cut in various forms, +according to the fancy of the several tribes, and by some is left in the +long, lank, flow of nature. They very generally extract their beards, +and both sexes manifest a disposition to pluck the hair from every part +of their body and limbs. Their eyes are black, keen, and penetrating; +their countenance open and agreeable, and it is a principal object of +their vanity to give every possible decoration to their persons. A +material article in their toilets is vermilion, which they contrast with +their native blue, white, and brown earths, to which charcoal is +frequently added.</p> + +<p>Their dress is at once simple and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pcxlii"></A>cxlii}</SPAN>commodious. It consists of tight +leggins, reaching near the hip: a strip of cloth or leather, called +assian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, whose ends are drawn +inwards and hang behind and before, over a belt tied round the waist for +that purpose: a close vest or shirt reaching down to the former garment, +and cinctured with a broad strip of parchment fastened with thongs +behind; and a cap for the head, consisting of a piece of fur, or small +skin, with the brush of the animal as a suspended ornament: a kind of +robe is thrown occasionally over the whole of the dress, and serves both +night and day. These articles, with the addition of shoes and mittens, +constitute the variety of their apparel. The materials vary according +to the season, and consist of dressed moose-skin, beaver prepared with +the fur, or European woollens. The leather is neatly painted, and +fancifully worked in some parts with porcupine quills, and moose-deer +hair: the shirts and leggins are also adorned with fringe and tassels; +nor are the shoes and mittens without somewhat of appropriate +decoration, and worked with a considerable degree of skill and taste. +These habiliments are put on, however, as fancy or convenience suggests; +and they will sometimes proceed to the chase in the severest frost, +covered only with the slightest of them.</p> + +<p> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxliii"></A>cxliii}</SPAN>Their +head-dresses are composed of the feathers of the swan, the eagle, +and other birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of different animals, are +also the occasional ornaments of the head and neck. Their hair, however +arranged, is always besmeared with grease. The making of every article +of dress is a female occupation; and the women, though by no means +inattentive to the decoration of their own persons, appear to have a +still greater degree of pride in attending to the appearance of the men, +whose faces are painted with more care than those of the women.</p> + +<p>The female dress is formed of the same materials as those of the other +sex, but of a different make and arrangement. Their shoes are commonly +plain, and their leggins gartered beneath the knee. The coat, or body +covering, falls down to the middle of the leg, and is fastened over the +shoulders with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight inches, +both before and behind, and agreeably ornamented with quill-work and +fringe; the bottom is also fringed, and fancifully painted as high as +the knee. As it is very loose, it is enclosed round the waist with a +stiff belt, decorated with tassels, and fastened behind. The arms are +covered to the wrist, with detached sleeves, which are sewed as far as +the bend of the arm; from thence they are drawn up <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxliv"></A>cxliv}</SPAN>to the neck, and the +corners of them fall down behind, as low as the waist. The cap, when +they wear one, consists of a certain quantity of leather or cloth, sewed +at one end, by which means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down the +back, is fastened to the belt, as well as under the chin. The upper +garment is a robe like that worn by the men. Their hair is divided on +the crown, and tied behind, or sometimes fastened in large knots over +the ears. They are fond of European articles, and prefer them to their +own native commodities. Their ornaments consist in common with all +savages, in bracelets, rings, and similar baubles. Some of the women +tattoo three perpendicular lines, which are sometimes double: one from +the centre of the chin to that of the under lip, and one parallel on +either side to the corner of the mouth.</p> + +<p>Of all the nations which I have seen on this continent, the Knisteneaux +women are the most comely. Their figure is generally well proportioned, +and the regularity of their features would be acknowledged by the more +civilized people of Europe. Their complexion has less of that dark +tinge which is common to those savages who have less cleanly habits.</p> + +<p>These people are, in general, subject to few disorders. The lues +venera, however, is +a <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxlv"></A>cxlv}</SPAN> common +complaint, but cured by the application of simples, with whose virtues +they appear to be well acquainted. They are also subject to fluxes, and +pains in the breast, which some have attributed to the very keen and +cold air which they inhale; but I should imagine that these complaints +must frequently proceed from their immoderate indulgence in fat meat at +their feasts, particularly when they have been preceded by long +fasting.</p> + +<p>They are naturally mild and affable, as well as just in their +dealings, not only among themselves, but with strangers.<a name="kl2" +href="#kr2">[2]</a> They are also generous and hospitable, and +good-natured in the extreme, except when their nature is perverted by +the inflammatory influence of spirituous liquors. To their children +they are indulgent to a fault. The father, though he assumes no command +over them, is ever anxious to instruct them in all the preparatory +qualifications for war and hunting; while the mother is equally +attentive to her daughters in teaching them every thing that is +considered as necessary to their character and situation. It does not +appear that the husband makes any distinction between the +children <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxlvi"></A>cxlvi}</SPAN>of +his wife, though they may be the offspring of different fathers. +Illegitimacy is only attached to those who are born before their mothers +have cohabited with any man by the title of husband.</p> + +<p>It does not appear, that chastity is considered by them as a virtue; or +that fidelity is believed to be essential to the happiness of wedded +life, Though it sometimes happens that the infidelity of a wife is +punished by the husband with the loss of her hair, nose, and perhaps +life; such severity proceeds from its having been practised without his +permission: for a temporary interchange of wives is not uncommon: and +the offer of their persons is considered as a necessary part of the +hospitality due to strangers.</p> + +<p>When a man loses his wife, it is considered as a duty to marry her +sister, if she has one; or he may, if he pleases, have them both at the +same time.</p> + +<p>It will appear from the fatal consequences I have repeatedly imputed +to the use of spirituous liquors that I more particularly consider these +people as having been, morally speaking, great sufferers from their +communication with the subjects of civilized nations. At the same time +they were not, in a state of nature, without their vices, and some of +them of a kind which is the most abhorrent to cultivated and reflecting +man. I shall only +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxlvii"></A>cxlvii}</SPAN> +observe, that incest and bestiality are among them.</p> + +<p>When a young man marries, he immediately goes to live with the father +and mother of his wife, who treat him, nevertheless, as a perfect +stranger, till after the birth of his first child: he then attaches +himself more to them than his own parents; and his wife no longer gives +him any other denomination than that of the father of her child.</p> + +<p>The profession of the men is war and hunting, and the more active scene +of their duty is the field of battle, and the chase in the woods. They +also spear fish, but the management of the nets is left to the women. +The females of this nation are in the same subordinate state with those +of all other savage tribes, but the severity of their labour is much +diminished by their situation on the banks of lakes and rivers, where +they employ canoes. In the winter, when the waters are frozen, they +make their journeys, which are never of any great length, with sledges +drawn by dogs. They are, at the same time, subject to every kind of +domestic drudgery; they dress the leather, make the clothes and shoes, +weave the nets, collect wood, erect the tents, fetch water, and perform +every culinary service; so that when the duties of maternal care are +added, it will appear, that the life of these women is an uninterrupted +succession <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxlviii"></A>cxlviii}</SPAN>of +toil and pain. This, indeed, is the sense they entertain +of their own situation; and under the influence of that sentiment, they +are sometimes known to destroy their female children, to save them from +the miseries which they themselves have suffered. They also have a +ready way, by the use of certain simples, of procuring abortions, which +they sometimes practise, from their hatred of the father, or to save +themselves the trouble which children occasion: and, as I have been +credibly informed, this unnatural act is repeated without any injury to +the health of the women who perpetrate it.</p> + +<p>The funeral rites begin, like all other solemn ceremonials, with +smoking, and are concluded by a feast. The body is dressed in the best +habiliments possessed by the deceased, or his relations, and is then +deposited in a grave lined with branches; some domestic utensils are +place on it, and a kind of canopy erected over it. During this +ceremony, great lamentations are made, and if the departed person is +very much regretted, the near relations cut off their hair, pierce the +fleshy part of their thighs and arms with arrows, knives, etc, and +blacken their faces with charcoal. If they have distinguished +themselves in war, they are sometimes laid on a kind of scaffolding; and +I have been informed, that women, as in the East, have <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxlix"></A>cxlix}</SPAN>been known to +sacrifice themselves to the manes of their husbands. The whole of the +property belonging to the departed person is destroyed, and the +relations take in exchange for the wearing apparel, any rags that will +cover their nakedness. The feast bestowed on the occasion, which is, or +at least used to be, repeated annually, is accompanied with eulogiums on +the deceased, and without any acts of ferocity. On the tomb are carved +or painted the symbols of his tribe, which are taken from the different +animals of the country.</p> + +<p>Many and various are the motives which induce a savage to engage in war. +To prove his courage, or to revenge the death of his relations, or some +of his tribe, by the massacre of an enemy. If the tribe feel themselves +called upon to go to war, the elders convene the people, in order to +know the general opinion. If it be for war, the chief publishes his +intention to smoke in the sacred stem at a certain period, to which +solemnity, meditation and fasting are required as preparatory +ceremonials. When the people are thus assembled, and the meeting +sanctified by the custom of smoking, the chief enlarges on the causes +which have called them together, and the necessity of the measures +proposed on the occasion. He then invites those who are willing to +follow him, to smoke out of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pcl"></A>cl}</SPAN>sacred stem, which is considered as the +token of enrolment; and if it should be the general opinion that +assistance is necessary, others are invited, with great formality, to +join them. Every individual who attends these meetings, brings +something with him as a token of his warlike intention, or as an object +of sacrifice, which, when the assembly dissolves, is suspended from +poles near the place of council.</p> + +<p>They have frequent feasts, and particular circumstances never fail to +produce them, such as a tedious illness, long fasting, etc. On these +occasions it is usual for the person who means to give the +entertainment, to announce his design, on a certain day, of opening the +medicine-bag, and smoking out of his sacred stem. This declaration is +considered as a sacred vow that cannot be broken. There are also stated +periods, such as the spring and autumn, when they engage in very long +and solemn ceremonies. On these occasions dogs are offered as +sacrifices, and those which are very fat, and milk-white, are preferred. +They also make large offerings of their property, whatever it may be. +The scene of these ceremonies is in an open inclosure on the bank of a +river or lake, and in the most conspicuous situation, in order that such +as are passing along or travelling, may be induced to make their +offerings. There +is <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcli"></A>cli}</SPAN>also a +particular custom among them, that, on these occasions, if any of the +tribe, or even a stranger, should be passing by, and be in real want of +any thing that is displayed as an offering, he has a right to take it, +so that he replaces it with some article he can spare, though it be of +far inferior value; but to take or touch any thing wantonly is +considered as a sacrilegious act, and highly insulting to the great +Master of Life, to use their own expression, who is the sacred object of +their devotion.</p> + +<p>The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge of the person who +performs it, which is prepared for that purpose, by removing every thing +out of it, and spreading green branches in every part. The fire and +ashes are also taken away. A new hearth is made of fresh, earth, and +another fire is lighted. The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it; +and he begins the ceremony by spreading a piece of new cloth, or a +well-dressed moose-skin neatly painted, on which he opens his +medicine-bag and exposes its contents, consisting of various articles. +The principal of them is a kind of household god, which is a small +carved image about eight inches long. Its first covering is of down, +over which a piece of birch-bark is closely tied, and the whole is +enveloped in several folds of red and blue cloth. This little figure is +an object of the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclii"></A>clii}</SPAN> +most pious regard. The next article is his war-cap, which is decorated +with the feathers and plumes of scarce birds, beavers, and eagle's +claws, etc. There is also suspended from it a quill or feather for +every enemy whom the owner of it has slain in battle. The remaining +contents of the bag are, a piece of Brazil tobacco, several roots and +simples, which are in great estimation for their medicinal qualities, +and a pipe. These articles being all exposed, and the stem resting upon +two forks, as it must not touch the ground, the master of the lodge +sends for the person he most esteems, who sits down opposite to him; the +pipe is then filled and fixed to the stem. A pair of wooden pincers is +provided to put the fire in the pipe, and a double-pointed pin, to empty +it of the remnant of tobacco which is not consumed. This arrangement +being made, the men assemble, and sometimes the women are allowed to be +humble spectators, while the most religious awe and solemnity pervades +the whole. The Michiniwais, or Assistant, takes up the pipe, lights it, +and presents it to the officiating person, who receives it standing and +holds it between both his hands. He then turns himself to the East, and +draws a few whiffs, which he blows to that point. The same ceremony he +observes to the other three quarters, with his eyes directed upwards +during the +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcliii"></A>cliii}</SPAN>whole of it. +He holds the stem about the middle between the three first +fingers of both hands, and raising them upon a line with his forehead, +he swings it three times round from the East, with the sun, when, after +pointing and balancing it in various directions, he reposes it on the +forks: he then makes a speech to explain the design of their being +called together, which concludes with an acknowledgment for past +mercies, and a prayer for the continuance of them, from the Master of +Life. He then sits down, and the whole company declare their +approbation and thanks by uttering the word <i>ho!</i> with an emphatic +prolongation of the last letter. The Michiniwais then takes up the pipe +and holds it to the mouth of the officiating person, who, after smoking +three whiffs out of it, utters a short prayer, and then goes round with +it, taking his course from East to West, to every person present, who +individually says something to him on the occasion; and thus the pipe is +generally smoked out; when, after turning it three or four times round +his head, he drops it downwards, and replaces it in its original +situation. He then returns the company thanks for their attendance, and +wishes them, as well as the whole tribe, health and long life.</p> + +<p>These smoking rites precede every matter of great importance with more +or less <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcliv"></A>cliv}</SPAN>ceremony, but +always with equal solemnity. The utility of them will appear from the +following relation.</p> + +<p>If a chief is anxious to know the disposition of his people towards him, +or if he wishes to settle any difference between them, he announces his +intention of opening his medicine-bag and smoking in his sacred stem; +and no man who entertains a grudge against any of the party thus +assembled can smoke with the sacred stem; as that ceremony dissipates +all differences, and is never violated.</p> + +<p>No one can avoid attending on these occasions; but a person may +attend and be excused from assisting at the ceremonies, by acknowledging +that he has not undergone the necessary purification. The having +cohabited with his wife, or any other woman, within twenty-four hours +preceding the ceremony, renders him unclean, and, consequently, +disqualifies him from performing any part of it. If a contract is +entered into and solemnised by the ceremony of smoking, it never fails +of being faithfully fulfilled. If a person, previous to his going a +journey, leaves the sacred stem as a pledge of his return, no +consideration whatever will prevent him from executing his +engagement.<a name="kl3" href="#kr3">[3]</a></p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclv"></A>clv}</SPAN>The chief, +when he proposes to make a feast, sends quills, or small +pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation to such as he wishes to partake +of it. At the appointed time the guests arrive, each bringing a dish or +platter, and a knife, and take their seats on each side of the chief, +who receives them sitting, according to their respective ages. The pipe +is then lighted, and he makes an equal division of every thing that is +provided. While the company are enjoying their meal, the chief sings, +and accompanies his song with the tambourine, or shishiquoi, or rattle. +The guest who has first eaten his portion is considered as the most +distinguished person. If there should be any who cannot finish the +whole of their mess, they endeavour to prevail on some of their friends +to eat it for them, who are rewarded for their assistance with +ammunition and tobacco. It is proper also to remark, that at these +feasts a small quantity of meat or drink is sacrificed, before they +begin to eat, by throwing it into the fire, or on the earth.</p> + +<p>These feasts differ according to circumstances; sometimes each man's +allowance is no more than he can despatch in a couple of hours. At +other times the quantity is sufficient to supply each of them with food +for a week, though it must be devoured in a day. On these occasions it +is very difficult to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclvi"></A>clvi}</SPAN> +procure substitutes, and the whole must be eaten +whatever time it may require. At some of these entertainments there is +a more rational arrangement, when the guests are allowed to carry home +with them the superfluous part of their portions. Great care is always +taken that the bones may be burned, as it would be considered a +profanation were the dogs permitted to touch them.</p> + +<p>The public feasts are conducted in the same manner, but with some +additional ceremony. Several chiefs officiate at them, and procure the +necessary provisions, as well as prepare a proper place of reception for +the numerous company. Here the guests discourse upon public topics, +repeat the heroic deeds of their forefathers, and excite the rising +generation to follow their example. The entertainments on these +occasions consist of dried meats, as it would not be practicable to +dress a sufficient quantity of fresh meat for such a large assembly; +though the women and children are excluded.</p> + +<p>Similar feasts used to be made at funerals, and annually, in honour of +the dead; but they have been, for some time, growing into disuse, and I +never had an opportunity of being present at any of them.</p> + +<p>The women, who are forbidden to enter the places sacred to these +festivals, dance and sing around them, and sometimes beat time <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pclvii"></A>clvii}</SPAN>to the +music within them; which forms an agreeable contrast.</p> + +<p>With respect to their divisions of time, they compute the length of +their journeys by the number of nights passed in performing them; and +they divide the year by the succession of moons. In this calculation, +however, they are not altogether correct, as they cannot account for the +odd days.</p> + +<p>The names which they give to the names are descriptive of the several +seasons.</p> +<br> + +<table border="0" width="100%" cellpadding="5%"> +<tr><td> May </td><td> Atheiky o Pishim </td><td> Frog Moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td> June </td><td> Oppinu o Pishim </td><td> The Moon in which birds begin to lay their eggs.</td></tr> +<tr><td> July </td><td> Aupascen o Pishim </td><td> The Moon when birds cast their feathers.</td></tr> +<tr><td> August </td><td> Aupahou o Pishim </td><td> The Moon when the young birds begin to fly.</td></tr> +<tr><td> September </td><td> Waskiscon o Pishim </td><td> The Moon when the moose deer cast their horns.</td></tr> +<tr><td>October </td><td> Wisac o Pishim </td><td> The Rutting-Moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td> November </td><td> Thithigon Pewai o Pishim </td><td> Hoar-Frost Moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td>  </td><td> Kuskatinsyoui o Pishim</td><td> Ice Moon. </td></tr> +<tr><td>December </td><td> Pawatchicananasis o Pishim </td><td> Whirlwind-Moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td>January </td><td> Kushapawasticanum o Pishim </td><td> Extreme cold Moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclviii"></A>clviii}</SPAN> February </td><td> Kichi Pishim </td><td> Big Moon; some say, Old Moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td> March </td><td> Mickysue Pishim </td><td>Eagle Moon.</td></tr> +<tr><td> April </td><td> Niscaw o Pishim </td><td> Goose Moon.</td></tr> + +</table> + +<p>These people know the medicinal virtues of many herbs and simples, and +apply the roots of plants and the bark of trees with success. But the +conjurers, who monopolize the medical science, find it necessary to +blend mystery with their art, and do not communicate their knowledge. +Their materia medica they administer in the form of purges and clysters, +but the remedies and surgical operations are supposed to derive much of +their effect from magic and incantation. When a blister rises in the +foot from the frost, the chafing of the shoe, etc., they immediately +open it, and apply the heated blade of a knife to the part, which, +painful as it may be, is found to be efficacious. A sharp flint serves +them as a lancet for letting blood, as well as for scarification in +bruises and swellings. For sprains, the dung of an animal just killed +is considered as the best remedy. They are very fond of European +medicines, though they are ignorant of their application: and those +articles form an inconsiderable part of the European traffic with them.</p> + +<p>Among their various superstitions, they believe that the vapour which is +seen to hover over moist and swampy places, is the spirit <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pclix"></A>clix}</SPAN>of some person +lately dead. They also fancy another spirit which appears, in the shape +of a man, upon the trees near the lodge of a person deceased, whose +property has not been interred with them. He is represented as bearing +a gun in his hand, and it is believed that he does not return to his +rest, till the property that has been withheld from the grave has been +sacrificed to it.</p> + +<br> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<br> + + +<h4 align="center">EXAMPLES OF THE KNISTENEAUX AND ALGONQUIN TONGUES.</h4> + +<table border ="0" cellpadding="5%" width="100%"> +<tr><td>  </td> <td><b>Knisteneaux.</b></td> <td><b>Algonquin.</b></td></tr> +<tr><td>Good Spirit</td> <td> Ki jai Manitou</td> <td>Ki jai Manitou.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Evil Spirit</td> <td>Matchi manitou</td> <td>Matchi-manitou.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Man </td> <td>Ethini</td> <td>Inini</td></tr> +<tr><td>Woman </td> <td>Esquois</td> <td>Ich-quois.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Male </td> <td>Nap hew </td> <td>Aquoisi.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Female</td> <td>Non-gense</td> <td>Non-gense.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Infant </td><td>A' wash ish </td><td>Abi nont-chen.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Head </td><td>Us ti quoin </td><td>O'chiti-goine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Forehead </td><td>Es caatick </td><td>O catick.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hair </td><td>Wes ty-ky </td><td>Winessis.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eyes </td><td>Es kis och </td><td>Oskingick.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Nose </td><td>Oskiwin </td><td>O'chengewane.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Nostrils </td><td>Oo tith ee go mow</td><td>Ni-de-ni-guom.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mouth </td><td>O toune </td><td>O tonne.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My teeth </td><td>Wip pit tah </td><td>Nibit.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Tongue </td><td>Otaithani </td><td>O-tai-na-ni.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Beard </td><td>Michitoune </td><td>Omichitonn.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Brain </td><td>With i tip </td><td>Aba-e winikan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ears </td><td>O tow ee gie </td><td>O-ta wagane.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Neck </td><td>O qui ow </td><td>O'quoi gan.</td></tr> +<tr><td><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclx"></A>clx}</SPAN> Throat </td><td>O koot tas gy </td><td>Nigon dagane.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Arms</td><td> O nisk </td><td>O nic.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fingers</td><td> Che chee </td><td>Ni nid gines.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Nails</td><td> Wos kos sia </td><td>Os-kenge.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Side</td><td> O's spig gy </td><td>Opikegan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My back </td><td> No pis quan </td><td>Ni-pi quoini.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My belly</td><td> Nattay </td><td>Ni my sat.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Thighs </td><td> O povam </td><td>Obouame.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My knees</td><td> No che quoin noh </td><td>Ni gui tick.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Legs </td><td> Nos </td><td>Ni gatte.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Heart </td><td> Ok thea </td><td>Othai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My father</td><td> Noo ta wie </td><td>Nossai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My mother</td><td> Nigah wei </td><td>Nigah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My boy (son)</td><td> Negousis </td><td>Nigouisses.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My girl (daughter)</td><td> Netanis </td><td>Nidaniss.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My brother, elder</td><td> Ni stess </td><td>Nis-a-yen.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My sister, elder </td><td> Ne miss </td><td>Nimisain.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My grandfather </td><td> Ne moo shum </td><td>Ni-mi-chomiss.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My grandmother </td><td> N'o kum </td><td>No-co-miss.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My uncle</td><td> N' o'ka miss </td><td>Ni ni michomen.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My nephew </td><td> Ne too sim </td><td>Ne do jim.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My niece</td><td> Ne too sim esquois </td><td>Ni-do-jim equois</td></tr> +<tr><td> My mother-in-law</td><td> Nisigouse </td><td>Ni sigousiss.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My brother-in-law</td><td> Nistah </td><td>Nitah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My companion</td><td> Ne wechi wagan </td><td>Ni-wit-chi-wagan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My husband</td><td> Ni nap pem </td><td>Ni na bem.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Blood</td><td> Mith coo </td><td>Misquoi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Old Man</td><td> Shi nap </td><td>Aki win se.</td></tr> +<tr><td> I am angry </td><td> Ne kis si wash en </td><td>Nis Katissiwine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> I fear</td><td> Ne goos tow </td><td>Nisest guse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxi"></A>clxi}</SPAN>Joy </td><td> Ne hea tha tom </td><td>Mamond gikisi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hearing </td><td> Pethom </td><td>Oda wagan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Track </td><td> Mis conna </td><td>Pemi ka wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Chief, great ruler</td><td> Haukimah </td><td>Kitchi onodis.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Thief </td><td> Kismouthesk </td><td>Ke moutiske.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Excrement</td><td> Meyee </td><td>Moui.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Buffalo</td><td> Moustouche </td><td>Pichike.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ferret </td><td> Sigous </td><td>Shingouss.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Polecat</td><td> Shicak </td><td>Shi kak.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Elk </td><td> Moustouche </td><td>Michai woi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Rein deer</td><td> Attick </td><td>Atick.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fellow deer</td><td> Attick </td><td>Wa wasquesh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Beaver </td><td> Amisk </td><td>Amic.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Wolverine </td><td> Qui qua katch </td><td>Quin quoagki.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Squirrel </td><td> Ennequachas </td><td>Otchi ta mou.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Minx </td><td> Sa quasue </td><td>Shaugouch.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Otter </td><td> Nekick </td><td>Ni guick.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Wolf </td><td> Mayegan </td><td>Maygan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hare </td><td> Wapouce </td><td>Wapouce.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Marten </td><td> Wappistan </td><td>Wabichinse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Moose </td><td> Mouswah </td><td>Monse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Bear </td><td> Masqua </td><td>Macqua.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fisher </td><td> Wijask </td><td>Od-jisck.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Lynx </td><td> Picheu </td><td>Pechou.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Porcupine </td><td> Cau quah </td><td>Kack.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fox </td><td> Mikasew </td><td>Wagouche.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Musk Rat</td><td> Wajask </td><td>Wa-jack.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mouse </td><td> Abicushiss </td><td>Wai wa be gou noge.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Cow Buffalo </td><td> Noshi Moustouche </td><td>Nochena pichik.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Meat-flesh </td><td> Wias </td><td>Wi-ass.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Dog </td><td> Atim </td><td>Ani-mouse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eagle </td><td> Makusue </td><td>Me-guissis.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Duck </td><td> Sy Sip </td><td>Shi-sip.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxii"></A>clxii}</SPAN>Crow, Corbeau</td><td> Ca Cawkeu </td><td>Ka Kak.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Swan </td><td> Wapiseu </td><td>Wa-pe-sy.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Turkey </td><td> Mee sei thew </td><td>Mississay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Pheasants </td><td> Okes kew </td><td>Ajack.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Bird </td><td> Pethesew </td><td>Pi-na-sy.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Outard </td><td> Niscag </td><td>Nic kack.</td></tr> +<tr><td> White Goose </td><td> Wey Wois </td><td>Woi wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Grey Goose </td><td> Pestasish </td><td>Pos ta kisk.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Partridge </td><td> Pithew </td><td>Pen ainse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Water Hen </td><td> Chiquibish </td><td>Che qui bis.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Dove </td><td> Omi Mee </td><td>O mi-mis.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eggs </td><td> We Wah </td><td>Wa Weni.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Pike or Jack </td><td> Kenonge </td><td>Kenonge.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Carp </td><td> Na may bin </td><td>Na me bine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sturgeon </td><td> Na May </td><td>Na Maiu.</td></tr> +<tr><td> White fish </td><td> Aticaming </td><td>Aticaming.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Pickerel </td><td> Oc-chaw </td><td>Oh-ga.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fish (in general)</td><td> Kenonge </td><td>Ki-cons.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Spawn </td><td> Waquon </td><td>Wa quock.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fins </td><td> Chi chi kan </td><td>O nidj-igan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Trout </td><td> Nay gouse </td><td>Na Men Gouse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Craw Fish </td><td> A shag gee </td><td>A cha kens chacque.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Frog </td><td> Atahick </td><td>O ma ka ki.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Wasp </td><td> Ah moo </td><td>A mon.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Turtle </td><td> Mikinack </td><td>Mi-ki-nack.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Snake </td><td> Kinibick </td><td>Ki nai bick.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Awl </td><td> Oscajick </td><td>Ma-gose.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Needle </td><td> Saboinigan </td><td>Sha-bo nigan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fire steel </td><td> Appet </td><td>Scoutecgan</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fire wood </td><td> Mich-tah </td><td>Missane.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Cradle </td><td> Teckinigan </td><td>Tickina-gan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Dagger </td><td> Ta Comagau </td><td>Na-ba-ke-gou-man.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Arrow </td><td> Augusk or Atouche </td><td>Mettic ka nouins.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxiii"></A>clxiii}</SPAN>Fish Hook </td><td> Quosquipichican </td><td>Maneton Miquiscan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ax </td><td> Shegaygan </td><td>Wagagvette.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ear-bob </td><td> Chi-kisebisoun </td><td>Na be chi be soun</td></tr> +<tr><td> Comb </td><td> Sicahoun </td><td>Pin ack wan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Net </td><td> Athabe </td><td>Assap.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Tree </td><td> Mistick </td><td>Miti-coum.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Wood </td><td> Mistick </td><td>Mitic.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Paddle </td><td> Aboi </td><td>Aboui.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Canoe </td><td> Chiman </td><td>S-chiman.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Birch Rind </td><td> Wasquoi </td><td>Wig nass.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Bark </td><td> Wasquoi </td><td>On-na-guege.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Touch Wood </td><td> Pousagan </td><td>Sa-ga-tagan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Leaf </td><td> Nepeshah </td><td>Ni-biche.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Grass </td><td> Masquosi </td><td>Masquosi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Raspberries </td><td> Misqui-meinac </td><td>Misqui meinac.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Strawberries</td><td> O'-tai-e minac </td><td>O'-tai-e minac.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ashes </td><td> Pecouch </td><td>Pengoui.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fire </td><td> Scou tay </td><td>Scou tay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Grapes </td><td> Shomenac </td><td>Shomenac.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fog </td><td> Pakishihow </td><td>A Winni.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mud </td><td> Asus ki </td><td>A Shiski.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Currant </td><td> Kisijiwin </td><td>Ki si chi woin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Road </td><td> Mescanah </td><td>Mickanan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Winter </td><td> Pipoun </td><td>Pipone.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Island </td><td> Ministick </td><td>Miniss.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Lake </td><td> Sagayigan </td><td>Sagayigan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sun </td><td> Pisim </td><td>Kijis.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Moon </td><td> Tibisca pesim (the night Sun)</td><td>Dibic Kijis</td></tr> +<tr><td> Day </td><td> Kigigah </td><td>Kigi gatte.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Night </td><td> Tabisca </td><td>Dibic kawte.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Snow </td><td> Counah </td><td>So qui po.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Rain </td><td> Kimiwoin </td><td>Ki mi woini</td></tr> +<tr><td> Drift </td><td> Pewan </td><td>Pi-woine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxiv"></A>clxiv}</SPAN>Hail </td><td> Shes eagan </td><td>Me qua mensan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ice </td><td> Mesquaming </td><td>Me quam.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Frost </td><td> Aquatin </td><td>Gas-ga-tin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mist </td><td> Picasyow </td><td>An-quo-et.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Water </td><td> Nepec </td><td>Nipei.</td></tr> +<tr><td> World </td><td> Messeasky (all the earth)</td><td>Missi achki.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mountain </td><td> Wachee </td><td>Watchive.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sea </td><td> Kitchi kitchi gaming </td><td>Kitchi kitchi gaming.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Morning </td><td> Kequishepe </td><td>Ki-ki-jep.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mid-day </td><td> Abetah quisheik </td><td>Na ock quoi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Portage </td><td> Unygam </td><td>Ouni-gam.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Spring </td><td> Menouscaming </td><td>Mino ka ming.</td></tr> +<tr><td> River </td><td> Sipee </td><td>Sipi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Rapid </td><td> Bawastick </td><td>Ba wetick.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Rivulet </td><td> Sepeesis </td><td>Sipi wes chin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sand </td><td> Thocaw </td><td>Ne gawe.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Earth </td><td> Askee </td><td>Ach ki.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Star </td><td> Attack </td><td>Anang.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Thunder </td><td> Pithuseu </td><td>Ni mi ki.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Wind </td><td> Thoutin </td><td>No tine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Calm </td><td> Athawostin </td><td>A-no-a-tine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Heat </td><td> Quishipoi </td><td>Aboyce.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Evening </td><td> Ta kashike </td><td>O'n-a-guche.</td></tr> +<tr><td> North </td><td> Kywoitin </td><td>Ke woitinak.</td></tr> +<tr><td> South </td><td> Sawena woon </td><td>Sha-wa-na-wang.</td></tr> +<tr><td> East </td><td> Coshawcastak </td><td>Wa-ba-no-no-tine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> West </td><td> Paquisimow </td><td>Panguis-chi-mo.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Tomorrow </td><td> Wabank </td><td>Wa-bang.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Bone </td><td> Oskann </td><td>Oc-kann.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Broth </td><td> Michim waboi </td><td>Thaboub.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Feast </td><td> Ma qua see </td><td>Wi con qui wine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Grease or oil</td><td> Pimis </td><td>Pimi-tais.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxv"></A>clxv}</SPAN>Marrow fat </td><td> Oscan pimis </td><td>Oska-pimitais.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sinew </td><td> Asstis </td><td>Attiss.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Lodge </td><td> Wig-waum </td><td>Wi-gui-wam.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Bed </td><td> Ne pa win </td><td>Ne pai wine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Within </td><td> Pendog ke </td><td>Pendig.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Door </td><td> Squandam </td><td>Scouandam.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Dish </td><td> Othagan </td><td>O' na gann.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fort </td><td> Wasgaigan </td><td>Wa-kuigan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sledge </td><td> Tabanask </td><td>Otabanac.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Cincture </td><td> Poquoatehoun </td><td>Ketche pisou,</td></tr> +<tr><td> Cap </td><td> Astotin </td><td>Pe matinang.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Socks </td><td> Ashican </td><td>A chi-gan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Shirt </td><td> Papackeweyan </td><td>Pa pa ki weyan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Coat </td><td> Papise-co-wagan </td><td>Papise-co-wa-gan</td></tr> +<tr><td> Blanket </td><td> Wape weyang </td><td>Wape weyan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Cloth </td><td> Maneto weguin </td><td>Maneto weguin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Thread </td><td> Assabab </td><td>Assabab.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Garters </td><td> Chi ki-bisoon </td><td>Ni gaske-tase besoun.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mittens </td><td> Astissack </td><td>Medjica wine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Shoes </td><td> Maskisin </td><td>Makisin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Smoking bag </td><td> Kusquepetagan </td><td>Kasquepetagan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Portage sling</td><td> Apisan </td><td>Apican,</td></tr> +<tr><td> Strait on </td><td> Goi ask </td><td>Goi-ack.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Medicine </td><td> Mas ki kee </td><td>Macki-ki.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Red </td><td> Mes coh </td><td>Mes-cowa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Blue </td><td> Kasqutch (same as black)</td><td>O-jawes-cowa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> White </td><td> Wabisca </td><td>Wabisca.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Yellow </td><td> Saw waw </td><td>O-jawa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Green </td><td> Chibatiquare </td><td>O'jawes-cowa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Brown </td><td>   </td><td>O'jawes-cowa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Grey, etc. </td><td>   </td><td>O'jawes-cowa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ugly </td><td> Mache na gouseu </td><td>Mous-counu-gouse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxvi"></A>clxvi}</SPAN>Handsome </td><td> Catawassiseu </td><td>Nam bissa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Beautiful </td><td> Kissi Sawenogan </td><td>Quoi Natch.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Deaf </td><td> Nima petom </td><td>Ka ki be chai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Good-natured</td><td> Mithi washin </td><td>Onichishin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Pregnant </td><td> Paawie </td><td>And-jioko.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fat </td><td> Outhineu </td><td>Oui-ni-noe.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Big </td><td> Mushikitee </td><td>Messha.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Small or little</td><td> Abisasheu </td><td>Agu-chin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Short </td><td> Chemasish </td><td>Tackosi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Skin </td><td> Wian </td><td>Wian.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Long </td><td> Kinwain </td><td>Kiniwa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Strong </td><td> Mascawa </td><td>|Mache-cawa.<br>|Mas-cawise.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Coward </td><td> Sagatahaw </td><td> Cha-goutai-ye.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Weak </td><td> Nitha missew </td><td> Cha-gousi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Lean </td><td> Mahta waw </td><td> Ka wa ca tosa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Brave </td><td> Nima Gustaw </td><td> Son qui taige.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Young man </td><td> Osquineguish </td><td> Oskinigui.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Cold </td><td> Kissin </td><td> Kissinan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hot </td><td> Kichatai </td><td> Kicha tai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Spring </td><td> Minouscaming </td><td>Minokaming.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Summer </td><td> Nibin </td><td>Nibiqui.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fall </td><td> Tagowagonk </td><td>Tagowag.</td></tr> +<tr><td> One </td><td> Peyac </td><td>Pecheik.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Two </td><td> Nisheu </td><td>Nige.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Three </td><td> Nishtou </td><td>Nis-wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Four </td><td> Neway </td><td>Ne-au.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Five </td><td> Ni-annan </td><td>Na-nan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Six </td><td> Negoutawoesic </td><td>Ni gouta was-wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Seven </td><td> Nish woisic </td><td>Nigi-was-wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eight </td><td> Jannanew </td><td>She was wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Nine </td><td> Shack </td><td>Shang was wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ten </td><td> Mitatat </td><td>Mit-asswois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eleven </td><td> Peyac osap </td><td>Mitasswois, hachi pecheik.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxvii"></A>clxvii}</SPAN>Twelve </td><td> Nisheu osap </td><td>Mitasswois, hachi, nige.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Thirteen </td><td> Nichtou osap </td><td>Mitasswois, hachi, niswois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fourteen </td><td> Neway osap </td><td>Mitasswois, hachi, ne-au.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fifteen </td><td> Niannan osap </td><td>Mitasswois, hachi, nanan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sixteen </td><td> Nigoutawoesic osap </td><td>Mitasswois, hachi, negoutawaswois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Seventeen </td><td> Nish woesic osap </td><td>Mitasswois, hachi, nigi was-wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eighteen </td><td> Jannenew osap </td><td>Mitasgwois, hachi, shiwasswois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Nineteen </td><td> Shack osap </td><td>Mitasswois, hachi, shang as wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Twenty </td><td> Nisheu mitenah </td><td>Nigeta-nan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Twenty-one </td><td> Nishew mitenah peyac osap</td><td>Nigeta nan, hachi, pechic.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Twenty-two, etc.</td><td> Nisheu mitenah nishew osap </td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> Thirty </td><td> Nishtou mitenah </td><td>Niswois mitanan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Forty </td><td> Neway mitenah </td><td>Neau mitanan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fifty </td><td> Niannan mitenah </td><td>Nanan mitanen.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sixty </td><td> Negoutawoisic mitenah</td><td>Nigouta was wois mitanan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Seventy </td><td> Nishwoisic mitenah </td><td>Nigi was wois mitanan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eighty </td><td> Jannaeu mitenah </td><td>She was wois mitanan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxviii"></A>clxviii}</SPAN>Ninety </td><td> Shack mitenah </td><td>Shang was wois mitanan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hundred </td><td> Mitana mitenan </td><td>Ningoutwack.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Two hundred </td><td> Neshew mitena a mitenah</td><td>Nige wack.</td></tr> +<tr><td> One thousand</td><td> Mitenah mitena mitenah </td><td> Kitchi-wack.</td></tr> +<tr><td> First </td><td> Nican </td><td>Nitam.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Last </td><td> Squayatch </td><td>Shaquoiyanke.</td></tr> +<tr><td> More </td><td> Minah </td><td>Awa-chi min.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Better </td><td> Athiwack mithawashin </td><td> A wachimin o nichi shen.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Best </td><td> Atniwack mithawashin </td><td> Kitchi o nichi shin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> I. or me </td><td> Nitha </td><td>Nin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> You, or thou</td><td> Kitha </td><td>Kin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> They, or them</td><td> Withawaw </td><td>Win na wa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> We </td><td> Nithawaw </td><td>Nina wa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My, or mine </td><td> Nitayen </td><td>Nida yam.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Your's </td><td> Kitayan </td><td>Kitayem.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Who </td><td>   </td><td>Auoni.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Whom </td><td> Awoine </td><td>Kegoi nin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> What </td><td>   </td><td>Wa</td></tr> +<tr><td> His, or her's</td><td> Otayan </td><td>Otayim mis.</td></tr> +<tr><td> All </td><td> Kakithau </td><td>Kakenan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Some, or some few</td><td> Pey peyac </td><td>Pe-pichic.</td></tr> +<tr><td> The same </td><td> Tabescoutch </td><td>Mi ta yoche.</td></tr> +<tr><td> All the world</td><td> Missi acki wanque </td><td>Mishiwai asky.</td></tr> +<tr><td> All the men </td><td> Kakithaw Ethi nyock </td><td>Missi Inini wock.</td></tr> +<tr><td> More </td><td> Mina </td><td>Mine wa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Now and then</td><td>   </td><td>Nannigoutengue.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sometimes </td><td> I as-cow-puco</td><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxix"></A>clxix}</SPAN>Seldom </td><td>   </td><td>Wica-ac-ko.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Arrive </td><td> Ta couchin </td><td>Ta-gouchin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Beat </td><td> Otamaha </td><td>Packit-ais.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To burn </td><td> Mistascasoo </td><td>Icha-quiso.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To sing </td><td> Nagamoun </td><td>Nagam.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To cut </td><td> Kisquishan </td><td>Qui qui jan.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To hide </td><td> Catann </td><td>Caso tawe.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To cover </td><td> Acquahoun </td><td>A co na oune.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To believe </td><td> Taboitam </td><td>Tai boitam.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To sleep </td><td> Nepan </td><td>Ni pann.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To dispute </td><td> Ke ko mitowock </td><td>Ki quaidiwine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To dance </td><td> Nemaytow </td><td>Nimic.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To give </td><td> Mith </td><td>Mih.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To do </td><td> Ogitann </td><td>O-gitoune.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To eat </td><td> Wissinee </td><td>Wissiniwin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To die </td><td> Nepew </td><td>Ni po wen.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To forget </td><td> Winnekiskisew </td><td>Woi ni mi kaw.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To speak </td><td> Athimetakcouse </td><td>Aninntagousse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To cry (tears)</td><td> Mantow </td><td>Ma wi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To laugh </td><td> Papew </td><td>Pa-pe</td></tr> +<tr><td> To set down </td><td> Nematappe </td><td>Na matape win.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To walk </td><td> Pimoutais </td><td>Pemoussai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To fall </td><td> Packisin </td><td>Panguishin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To work </td><td> Ah tus kew </td><td>Anokeh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To kill </td><td> Nipahaw </td><td>Nishi-woes.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To sell </td><td> Attawoin </td><td>Ata wois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To live </td><td> Pimatise </td><td>Pematis.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To see </td><td> Wabam </td><td>Wab.</td></tr> +<tr><td> To come </td><td> Astamoteh </td><td>Pitta-si-mouss.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Enough </td><td> Egothigog </td><td>Mi mi nic.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Cry (tears) </td><td> Manteau </td><td>Ambai ma wita.</td></tr> +<tr><td> It hails </td><td> Shisiagan </td><td>Sai saigaun.</td></tr> +<tr><td> There is <br>There is some</td><td> Aya wa</td><td>Aya wan</td></tr> +<tr><td> It rains </td><td> Quimiwoin </td><td>Qui mi woin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> After to-morrow</td><td>Awis wabank </td><td>Awas webang.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxx"></A>clxx}</SPAN>To-day </td><td> Anoutch </td><td>Non gum.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Thereaway </td><td> Netoi </td><td>Awoite.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Much </td><td> Michett </td><td>Ni bi wa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Presently </td><td> Pichisqua </td><td>Pitchinac.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Make, heart </td><td> Quithipeh </td><td>Wai we be.</td></tr> +<tr><td> This morning</td><td> Shebas </td><td>Shai bas.</td></tr> +<tr><td> This night </td><td> Tibiscag </td><td>De bi cong.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Above </td><td> Espiming </td><td>O kitchiai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Below </td><td> Tabassish </td><td>Ana mai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Truly </td><td> Taboiy </td><td>Ne de wache</td></tr> +<tr><td> Already </td><td> Sashay </td><td>Sha shaye.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Yet more </td><td> Minah </td><td>Mina wa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Yesterday </td><td> Tacoushick </td><td>Pitchinago.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Far </td><td> Wathow </td><td>Wassa.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Near </td><td> Quishiwoac </td><td>Paishou.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Never </td><td> Nima wecatch </td><td>Ka wi ka.</td></tr> +<tr><td> No </td><td> Nima </td><td>Ke wine.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Yes </td><td> Ah </td><td>In.</td></tr> +<tr><td> By-and-bye </td><td> Pa-nima </td><td>Pa-nima.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Always </td><td> Ka-ki-kee </td><td>Ka qui nick</td></tr> +<tr><td> Make haste </td><td> Quethepeh </td><td>Niguim.</td></tr> +<tr><td> It's long since</td><td> Mewaisha </td><td>Mon wisha.</td></tr> +</table> +<br> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="kr1" href="#kl1">[1]</a> The similarity +between their language and that of the Algonquins is an unequivocal +proof that they are the same people. Specimens of their respective +tongues will be hereafter given.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="kr2" href="#kl2">[2]</a> They have been +called thieves, but when that vice can with justice be attributed to +them, it may be traced to their connexion with the civilized people who +come into their country to traffic.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="kr3" href="#kl3">[3]</a> It is, however, +to be lamented, that of late there is a relaxation of the duties +originally attached to these festivals.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxi"></A>clxxi}</SPAN> +<center><h4>SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CHEPEWYAN INDIANS.</h4></center> + +<p>They are a numerous people, who consider the country between the +parallels of latitude 60. and 65. North, and longitude 100. to +110. West, as their lands or home. They speak a copious language, which +is very difficult to be attained, and furnishes dialects to the various +emigrant tribes which inhabit the following immense track of country, +whose boundary I shall describe.<a name="cl1" href="#cr1">[1]</a> It +begins at Churchill, and runs along the line of separation between them +and the Knisteneaux, up the Missinipi to the Isle a la Crosse, passing +on through the Buffalo Lake, River Lake, and Portage la Loche: from +thence it proceeds by the Elk River to the Lake of the Hills, and goes +directly West to the Peace River; and up that river to its source and +tributary waters; from whence it proceeds to the waters of the river +Columbia; and follows that river to latitude 52. 24. North, and +longitude 122. 54. West, where the +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxii"></A>clxxii}</SPAN> +Chepewyans have the Atnah or Chin Nation for their neighbours. It then +takes a line due West to the seacoast, within which, the country is +possessed by a people who speak their language<a name="cl2" href="#cr2">[2]</a> and +are consequently descended from them: there can be no doubt, therefore, of their +progress being to the Eastward. A tribe of them is even known at the upper +establishments on the Saskatchiwine; and I do not pretend to ascertain +how far they may follow the Rocky Mountains to the East.</p> + +<p>It is not possible to form any just estimate of their numbers, but it is +apparent, nevertheless, that they are by no means proportionate to the +vast extent of their territories, which may, in some degree, be +attributed to the ravages of the small-pox, which are, more or less, +evident throughout this part of the continent.</p> + +<p>The notion which these people entertain of the creation, is of a very +singular nature. They believe that, at the first, the globe was one +vast and entire ocean, inhabited by no living creature, except a mighty +bird, whose eyes were fire, whose glances were lightning, and the +clapping of whose wings were thunder. On his descent to the ocean, and +touching it, the earth instantly arose, and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pclxxiii"></A>clxxiii}</SPAN>remained on the surface of +the waters. This omnipotent bird then called forth all the variety of +animals from the earth, except the Chepewyans, who were produced from a +dog; and this circumstance occasions their aversion to the flesh of that +animal, as well as the people who eat it. This extraordinary tradition +proceeds to relate, that the great bird, having finished his work, made +an arrow, which was to be preserved with great care, and to remain +untouched; but that the Chepewyans were so devoid of understanding, as +to carry it away; and the sacrilege so enraged the great bird, that he +has never since appeared.</p> + +<p>They have also a tradition amongst them, that they originally came from +another country, inhabited by very wicked people, and had traversed a +great lake, which was narrow, shallow, and full of islands, where they +had suffered great misery, it being always winter, with ice and deep +snow. At the Copper-Mine River, where they made the first land, the +ground was covered with copper, over which a body of earth had since +been collected, to the depth of a man's height. They believe, also, +that in ancient times their ancestors lived till their feet were worn +out with walking, and their throats with eating. They describe a +deluge, when the waters spread over the whole earth, except the <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxiv"></A>clxxiv}</SPAN>highest +mountains, on the tops of which they preserved themselves.</p> + +<p>They believe, that immediately after their death, they pass into another +world, where they arrive at a large river, on which they embark in a +stone canoe, and that a gentle current bears them on to an extensive +lake, in the centre of which is a most beautiful island; and that, in +the view of this delightful abode, they receive that judgment for their +conduct during life, which terminates their final state and unalterable +allotment. If their good actions are declared to predominate, they are +landed upon the island, where there is to be no end to-their happiness; +which, however, according to their notions, consists in an eternal +enjoyment of sensual pleasure, and carnal gratification. But if their +bad actions weigh down the balance, the stone canoe sinks at once, and +leaves them up to their chins in the water, to behold and regret the +reward enjoyed by the good, and eternally struggling, but with +unavailing endeavours, to reach the blissful island, from which they are +excluded for ever.</p> + +<p>They have some faint notions of the transmigration of the soul; so that +if a child be born with teeth, they instantly imagine, from its +premature appearance, that it bears a resemblance to some person who had +lived to an advanced period, and that he has assumed <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxv"></A>clxxv}</SPAN>a renovated life, +with these extraordinary tokens of maturity.</p> + +<p>The Chepewyans are sober, timorous, and vagrant, with a selfish +disposition that has sometimes created suspicions of their integrity. +Their stature has nothing remarkable in it; but though they are seldom +corpulent, they are sometimes robust. Their complexion is swarthy; +their features coarse, and their hair lank, but always of a dingy black; +nor have they universally the piercing eye, which generally animates the +Indian countenance. The women have a more agreeable aspect than the +men, but their gait is awkward, which proceeds from their being +accustomed, nine months in the year, to travel on snow-shoes and drag +sledges of a weight from two to four hundred pounds. They are very +submissive to their husbands, who have, however, their fits of jealousy; +and, for very trifling causes, treat them with such cruelty as sometimes +to occasion their death. They are frequently objects of traffic; and +the father possesses the right of disposing of his daughter. +<a name="cl3" href="#cr3">[3]</a> The men +in general extract their beards, though some of them are seen to prefer +a bushy black beard, to a smooth chin. They cut their hair in various +forms, or leave it in a long, natural <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pclxxvi"></A>clxxvi}</SPAN>flow, according as their caprice +or fancy suggests. The women always wear it in great length, and some +of them are very attentive to its arrangement. If they at any time +appear despoiled of their tresses, it is to be esteemed a proof of the +husband's jealousy, and is considered as a severer punishment than +manual correction. Both sexes have blue or black bars, or from one to +four straight lines on their cheeks or forehead, to distinguish the +tribe to which they belong. These marks are either tattooed, or made by +drawing a thread, dipped in the necessary colour, beneath the skin.</p> + +<p>There are no people more attentive to the comforts of their dress, or +less anxious respecting its exterior appearance. In the winter it is +composed of the skins of deer, and their fawns, and dressed as fine as +any chamois leather, in the hair. In the summer their apparel is the +same, except that it is prepared without the hair. Their shoes and +leggins are sewed together, the latter reaching upwards to the middle, +and being supported by a belt, under which a small piece of leather is +drawn to cover the private parts, the ends of which fall down both +before and behind. In the shoes they put the hair of the moose or +reindeer with additional pieces of leather as socks. The shirt or coat, +when girted round the waist, reaches to the middle <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxvii"></A>clxxvii}</SPAN>of the thigh, and the +mittens are sewed to the sleeves, or are suspended by strings from the +shoulders. A ruff or tippet surrounds the neck, and the skin of the +head of the deer forms a curious kind of cap. A robe, made of several +deer or fawn skins sewed together, covers the whole. This dress is worn +single or double, but always in the winter, with the hair within and +without. Thus arrayed a Chepewyan will lay himself down on the ice in +the middle of a lake, and repose in comfort; though he will sometimes +find a difficulty in the morning to disencumber himself from the snow +drifted on him during the night. If in his passage he should be in want +of provision, he cuts a hole in the ice, when he seldom fails of taking +some trout or pike, whose eyes he instantly scoops out, and eats as a +great delicacy; but if they should not be sufficient to satisfy his +appetite, he will, in this necessity make his meal of the fish in its +raw state; but, those whom I saw, preferred to dress their victuals when +circumstances admitted the necessary preparation. When they are in that +part of their country which does not produce a sufficient quantity of +wood for fuel, they are reduced to the same exigency, though they +generally dry their meat in the sun.<a name="cl4" href="#cr4">[4]</a></p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxviii"></A>clxxviii}</SPAN>The +dress of the women differs from that of the men. Their leggins are +tied below the knee; and their coat or shift is wide, hanging down to +the ankle, and is tucked up at pleasure by means of a belt, which is +fastened round the waist. Those who have children have these garments +made very full about the shoulders, as when they are travelling they +carry their infants upon their backs, next their skin, in which +situation they are perfectly comfortable and in a position convenient to +be suckled. Nor do they discontinue <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"pclxxix"></A>clxxix}</SPAN>to give their milk to them till +they have another child. Childbirth is not the object of that tender +care and serious attention among the savages as it is among civilized +people. At this period no part of their usual occupation is omitted, +and this continual and regular exercise must contribute to the welfare +of the mother, both in the progress of parturition and in the moment of +delivery. The women have a singular custom of cutting off a small piece +of the navel string of the new-born children, and hang it about their +necks: they are also curious in the covering they make for it, which +they decorate with porcupine's quills and beads.</p> + +<p>Though the women are as much in the power of the men, as other articles +of their property, they are always consulted, and possess a very +considerable influence in the traffic with Europeans, and other +important concerns.</p> + +<p>Plurality of wives is common among them, and the ceremony of marriage is +of a very simple nature. The girls are betrothed at a very early period +to those whom the parents think the best able to support them: nor is +the inclination of the women considered. Whenever a separation takes +place, which sometimes happens, it depends entirely on the will and +pleasure of the husband. In common with the other Indians of this +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxx"></A>clxxx}</SPAN>country, they +have a custom respecting the periodical state of a woman, +which is rigorously observed: at that time she must seclude herself from +society. They are not even allowed in that situation to keep the same +path as the men, when travelling: and it is considered a great breach of +decency for a woman so circumstanced to touch any utensils of manly +occupation. Such a circumstance is supposed to defile them, so that +their subsequent use would be followed by certain mischief or +misfortune. There are particular skins which the women never touch, as +of the bear and wolf; and those animals the men are seldom known to +kill.</p> + +<p>They are not remarkable for their activity as hunters, which is owing to +the ease with which they snare deer and spear fish: and these +occupations are not beyond the strength of their old men, women, and +boys: so that they participate in those laborious occupations, which +among their neighbours are confined to the women. They make war on the +Esquimaux, who cannot resist their superior numbers, and put them to +death, as it is a principle with them never to make prisoners. At the +same time they tamely submit to the Knisteneaux, who are not so numerous +as themselves, when they treat them as enemies.</p> + +<p>They do not affect that cold reserve at meeting, either among themselves +or <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxxi"></A>clxxxi}</SPAN>strangers, +which is common with the Knisteneaux, but communicate +mutually, and at once, all the information of which they are possessed. +Nor are they roused like them from an apparent torpor to a state of +great activity. They are consequently more uniform in this respect, +though they are of a very persevering disposition when their interest is +concerned.</p> + +<p>As these people are not addicted to spirituous liquors, they have a +regular and uninterrupted use of their understanding, which is always +directed to the advancement of their own interest; and this disposition, +as may be readily imagined, sometimes occasions them to be charged with +fraudulent habits. They will submit with patience to the severest +treatment, when they are conscious that they deserve it, but will never +forget or forgive any wanton or unnecessary rigour. A moderate conduct +I never found to fail, nor do I hesitate to represent them, altogether, +as the most peaceable tribe of Indians known in North America.</p> + +<p>There are conjurers and high-priests, but I was not present at any of +their ceremonies; though they certainly operate in an extraordinary +manner on the imaginations of the people in the cure of disorders. +Their principal maladies are, rheumatic pains, the flux and consumption. +The venereal complaint is +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxxii"></A>clxxxii}</SPAN> very +common; but though its progress is slow, it gradually undermines the +constitution, and brings on premature decay. They have recourse to +superstition for their cure, and charms are their only remedies, except +the bark of the willow, which being burned and reduced to powder, is +strewed upon green wounds and ulcers, and places contrived for promoting +perspiration. Of the use of simples and plants they have no knowledge; +nor can it be expected, as their country does not produce them.</p> + +<p>Though they have enjoyed so long an intercourse with Europeans, their +country is so barren, as not to be capable of producing the ordinary +necessaries naturally introduced by such a communication and they +continue, in a great measure, their own inconvenient and awkward modes +of taking their game and preparing it when taken. Sometimes they drive +the deer into the small lakes, where they spear them, or force them into +inclosures, where the bow and arrow are employed against them. These +animals are also taken in snares made of skin. In the former instance +the game is divided among those who have been engaged in the pursuit of +it. In the latter it is considered as private property; nevertheless, +any unsuccessful hunter passing by, may take a deer so caught, leaving +the head, skin, and saddle for the owner. +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxxiii"></A>clxxxiii}</SPAN>Thus, +though they have no regular government, as every man is lord in his own +family, they are influenced, more or less, by certain principles which +condone to their general benefit.</p> + +<p>In their quarrels with each other, they very rarely proceed to a +greater degree of violence than is occasioned by blows, wrestling, and +pulling of the hair, while their abusive language consists in applying +the name of the most offensive animal to the object of their +displeasure, and adding the term ugly, and chiay, or +still-born.<a name="cl5" href="#cr5">[5]</a></p> + +<p>Their arms and domestic apparatus, in addition to the articles procured +from Europeans, are spears, bows, and arrows, fishing nets, and lines +made of green deer-skin thongs. They have also nets for taking the +beaver as he endeavours to escape from his lodge when it is broken open. +It is set in a particular manner for the purpose, and a man is employed +to watch the moment when he enters the snare, or he would soon cut his +way through it. He is then thrown upon the ice where he remains as if +he had no life in him.</p> + +<p>The snow-shoes are of a very superior workmanship. The inner part of +their frame is straight, the outer one is curved, and it is <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxxiv"></A>clxxxiv}</SPAN>pointed at +both ends, with that in front turned up. They are also laced with great +neatness with thongs made of deer-skin. The sledges are formed of thin +slips of board turned up also in front, and are highly polished with +crooked knives, in order to slide along with facility. Close-grained +wood is, on that account, the best; but theirs are made of the red or +swamp spruce-fir tree.</p> + +<p>The country, which these people claim as their land, has a very small +quantity of earth, and produces little or no wood or herbage. Its chief +vegetable substance is the moss, on which the deer feed; and a kind of +rock moss, which, in times of scarcity, preserves the lives of the +natives. When boiled in water, it dissolves into a clammy, glutinous +substance, that affords a very sufficient nourishment. But, +notwithstanding the barren state of their country, with proper care and +economy, these people might live in great comfort, for the lakes abound +in fish, and the hills are covered with deer. Though, of all the Indian +people of this continent they are considered as the most provident, they +suffer severely at certain seasons, and particularly in the dead of +winter, when they are under the necessity of retiring to their scanty, +stinted woods. To the Westward of them the musk-ox may be found, but +they have no dependence on it as an article of sustenance. +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxxv"></A>clxxxv}</SPAN> There are +also large hares, a few white wolves, peculiar to their country, and +several kinds of foxes, with white and grey partridges, etc. The beaver +and moose-deer they do not find till they come within 60 degrees North +latitude; and the buffalo is still further South. That animal is known +to frequent an higher latitude to the Westward of their country. These +people bring pieces of beautiful variegated marble, which are found on +the surface of the earth. It is easily worked, bears a fine polish, and +hardens with time; it endures heat, and is manufactured into pipes or +calumets, as they are very fond of smoking tobacco; a luxury which the +Europeans communicated to them.</p> + +<p>Their amusements or recreations are but few. Their music is so +inharmonious, and their dancing so awkward, that they might be supposed +to be ashamed of both, as they very seldom practise either. They also +shoot at marks, and play at the games common among them; but in fact +they prefer sleeping to either; and the greater part of their time is +passed in procuring food, and resting from the toil necessary to obtain +it. They are also of a querulous disposition, and are continually +making complaints; which they express by a constant repetition of the +word eduiy, "it is hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of voice.</p> + +<p> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxxvi"></A>clxxxvi}</SPAN> +They are superstitious in the extreme, and almost every action of their +lives, however trivial, is more or less influenced by some whimsical +notion. I never observed that they had any particular form of religious +worship; but as they believe in a good and evil spirit, and a state of +future rewards and punishments, they cannot be devoid of religious +impressions. At the same time they manifest a decided unwillingness to +make any communications on the subject.</p> + +<p>The Chepewyans have been accused of abandoning their aged and infirm +people to perish, and of not burying their dead; but these are +melancholy necessities, which proceed from their wandering way of life. +They are by no means universal, for it is within my knowledge, that a +man, rendered helpless by the palsy, was carried about for many years, +with the greatest tenderness and attention, till he died a natural +death. That they should not bury their dead in their own country, +cannot be imputed to them as a custom arising from a savage +insensibility, as they inhabit such high latitudes that the ground never +thaws; but it is well known, that when they are in the woods, they cover +their dead with trees. Besides, they manifest no common respect to the +memory of their departed friends, by a long period of mourning, cutting +off their hair, and never making use +of<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxxvii"></A>clxxxvii}</SPAN> the +property of the deceased. Nay, they frequently destroy or sacrifice +their own, as a token of regret and sorrow.</p> + +<p>If there be any people who, from the barren state of their country, +might be supposed to be cannibals by nature, these people, from the +difficulty they, at times, experience in procuring food, might be liable +to that imputation. But, in all my knowledge of them, I never was +acquainted with one instance of that disposition; nor among all the +natives which I met with in a route of five thousand miles, did I see or +hear of an example of cannibalism, but such as arose from that +irresistible necessity, which has been known to impel even the most +civilized people to eat each other.</p> + +<br> +<hr align="center" width="20%"> +<br> + + <center><h4>EXAMPLES OF THE CHEPEWYAN TONGUE</h4></center> + +<table border ="0" cellpadding="5%" width="100%"> +<tr><td> Man </td><td>Dinnie.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Woman </td><td>Chequois.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Young man </td><td>Quelaquis.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Young woman </td><td>Quelaquis chequoi.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My son </td><td>Zi azay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My daughter </td><td>Zi lengai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My husband </td><td>Zi dinnie.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My wife </td><td>Zi zayunai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My brother </td><td>Zi raing.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My father </td><td>Zi tah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My mother </td><td>Zi nah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My grandfather </td><td>Zi unai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Me, or my </td><td>See.</td></tr> +<tr><td><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxxviii"></A>clxxxviii}</SPAN>I </td><td>Ne.</td></tr> +<tr><td> You </td><td>Nun.</td></tr> +<tr><td> They </td><td>Be.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Head </td><td>Edthie.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hand </td><td>Law.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Leg </td><td>Edthen.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Foot </td><td>Cuh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eyes </td><td>Nackhay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Teeth </td><td>Goo.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Side </td><td>Kac-hey.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Belly </td><td>Bitt.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Tongue </td><td>Edthu.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hair </td><td>Thiegah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Back </td><td>Losseh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Blood </td><td>Dell.</td></tr> +<tr><td> The Knee </td><td>Cha-gutt.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Clothes or Blanket </td><td>Etlunay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Coat </td><td>Eeh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Leggin </td><td>Thell.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Shoes </td><td>Kinchee.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Robe or Blanket </td><td>Thuth.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sleeves </td><td>Bah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mittens </td><td>Geese.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Cap </td><td>Sah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Swan </td><td>Kagouce.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Duck </td><td>Keth.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Goose </td><td>Gah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> White partridge </td><td>Cass bah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Grey partridge </td><td>Deyee.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Buffalo </td><td>Giddy.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Moose deer </td><td>Dinyai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Rein deer </td><td>Edthun.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Beaver </td><td>Zah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Bear </td><td>Zass.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Otter </td><td>Gaby-ai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Martin </td><td>Thah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Wolverine </td><td>Naguiyai.</td></tr> +<tr><td><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pclxxxix"></A>clxxxix}</SPAN>Wolf </td><td>Yess (Nouhoay).</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fox </td><td>Naguethey.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hare </td><td>Cah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Dog </td><td>Sliengh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Beaver-skin </td><td>Zah thah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Otter skin </td><td>Naby-ai thith.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Moose-skin </td><td>Deny-ai thith.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fat </td><td>Icah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Grease </td><td>Thless.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Meet </td><td>Bid.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Pike </td><td>Uldiah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> White-fish </td><td>Slouey.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Trout </td><td>Slouey zinai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Pickerel </td><td>G'Gah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fish-hook </td><td>Ge-eth.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fish-line </td><td>Clulez.</td></tr> +<tr><td> One </td><td>Slachy.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Two </td><td>Naghur.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Three </td><td>Tagh-y.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Four </td><td>Dengk-y.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Five </td><td>Sasoulachee.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Six </td><td>Alki tar-hy-y.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Seven</td></tr> +<tr><td> Eight </td><td>Alki deing-hy.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Nine </td><td>Cakina hanoth-na.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ten </td><td>Ca noth na.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Twenty </td><td>Na ghur cha noth na.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Fire </td><td>Coun.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Water </td><td>Toue.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Wood </td><td>Dethkin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Ice </td><td>Thun.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Snow </td><td>Yath.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Rain </td><td>Thinnelsee.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Lake </td><td>Touey.</td></tr> +<tr><td> River </td><td>Tesse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mountain </td><td>Zeth.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Stone </td><td>Thaih.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxc"></A>cxc}</SPAN>Berries </td><td>Gui-eh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Hot </td><td>Edowh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Cold </td><td>Edzah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Island </td><td>Nouey.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Gun </td><td>Telkithy,</td></tr> +<tr><td> Powder </td><td>Telkithy counna.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Knife </td><td>Bess.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Axe </td><td>Thynle.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Sun</td></tr> +<tr><td> Moon </td><td>Sah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Red </td><td>Deli couse.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Black </td><td>Dell zin.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Trade, or barter </td><td>Na-houn-ny.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Good </td><td>Leyzong.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Not good </td><td>Leyzong houlley.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Stinking </td><td>Geddey.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Bad, ugly </td><td>Slieney.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Long since </td><td>Galladinna.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Now, today </td><td>Ganneh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Tomorrow </td><td>Gambeh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> By-and-bye, or presently </td><td>Garehoulleh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> House, or lodge </td><td>Cooen.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Canoe </td><td>Shaluzee.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Door </td><td>The o ball.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Leather-lodge </td><td>N'abalay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Chief </td><td>Buchahudry.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Mine </td><td>Zidzy.</td></tr> +<tr><td> His </td><td>Bedzy.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Yours </td><td>Nuntzy.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Large </td><td>Unshaw.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Small, or little </td><td>Chautah,</td></tr> +<tr><td> I love you </td><td>Ba eioinichdinh.</td></tr> +<tr><td> I hate you </td><td>Bucnoinichadinh hillay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> I am to be pitied </td><td>Est-chounest-hinay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> My relation </td><td>Sy lod, innay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Give me water </td><td>Too hanniltu.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Give me meat </td><td>Beds-hanniltu.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="pcxci"></A>cxci}</SPAN>Give me fish </td><td>Sloeeh anneltu.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Give me meat to eat </td><td>Bid Barheether.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Give me water to drink </td><td>To Barhithen.</td></tr> +<tr><td> It is far off </td><td>Netha uzany,</td></tr> +<tr><td> Is it not far </td><td>Nilduay uzany.</td></tr> +<tr><td> It is near </td><td>Nitha-hillai.</td></tr> +<tr><td> How many </td><td>Nilduay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> What call you him, or that </td><td>Etlaneldey.</td></tr> +<tr><td> Come here </td><td>Etla houllia</td></tr> +<tr><td> Pain, or suffering </td><td>Yeu dessay.</td></tr> +<tr><td> It's hard </td><td>I-yah.</td></tr> +<tr><td> You lie </td><td>Untzee.</td></tr> +<tr><td> What then </td><td>Eldaw-gueh.</td></tr> + +</table> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="cr1" href="#cl1">[1]</a> Those of them who +come to trade with us, do not exceed eight hundred men, and have a +smattering of the Knisteneau tongue, in which they carry on their +dealings with us.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="cr2" href="#cl2">[2]</a> The coast is +inhabited on the North-West by the Eskimaux, and on the Pacific Ocean by +a people different from both.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="cr3" href="#cl3">[3]</a> They do not, +however, sell them as slaves, but as companions to those who are +supposed to live more comfortably than themselves.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="cr4" href="#cl4">[4]</a> The provision +called pemmican, on which the Chepewyans, as well as the other savages +of this country, chiefly subsist in their journeys, is prepared in the +following manner: The lean parts of the flesh of the larger animals are +cut in thin slices, and are placed on a wooden grate over a slow fire, +or exposed to the sun, and sometimes to the frost. These operations dry +it, and in that state it is pounded between two stones; it will then +keep with care for several years. If, however, it is kept in large +quantities, it is disposed to ferment in the spring of the year, when it +must be exposed to the air, or it will soon decay. The inside fat, and +that of the rump, which is much thicker in these wild than our domestic +animals, is melted down and mixed, in a boiling state with the pounded +meat, in equal proportions: it is then put in baskets or bags for the +convenience of carrying it. Thus it becomes a nutritious food, and is +eaten, without any further preparation, or the addition of spice, salt, +or any vegetable or farinaceous substance. A little time reconciles it +to the palate. There is another sort made with the addition of marrow +and dried berries, which is of a superior quality.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="cr5" href="#cl5">[5]</a> This name is also +applicable to the fœtus of an animal, when killed, which is +considered as one of the greatest delicacies.</p> +<br> +<br> +<br> +<br><br> +<a name="map1"></a> +<a href="images/north-map-large.png"> +<img src="images/north-map.png" width="100%" alt="Map of Expedition North"> +</a> +<hr> +<br><br><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p193"></A>193}</SPAN> +<center><h3>JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, &c.</h3> +<br><br> +<h4><a name="chapter1" href="#toc_chapter1"> CHAPTER I.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JUNE, 1789.</p> + +<p><i>Wednesday, 3.</i>—We embarked at nine in the morning, at +Fort Chepewyan, on the South side of the Lake of the Hills, in latitude +58. 40. North, and longitude 110. 30. West from Greenwich, and compass +has sixteen degrees variation East, in a canoe made of birch bark. The +crew consisted of four Canadians, two of whom were attended by their +wives, and a German; we were accompanied also by an Indian, who had +acquired the title of English Chief, and his two wives, in a small +canoe, with two young Indians; his followers in another small canoe. +These men were engaged to serve us in the twofold capacity of +interpreters and hunters. This chief has been a principal leader of his +countrymen who were in the habit of carrying furs to Churchill Factory, +Hudson's Bay, and till of late very much attached to the interest of +that company. These circumstances procured him the appellation of the +English Chief.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p194"></A>194}</SPAN> +We were also accompanied by a canoe that I had equipped for the purpose +of trade, and given the charge of it to M. Le Roux, one of the Company's +clerks. In this I was obliged to ship part of our provision; which, +with the clothing necessary for us on the voyage, a proper assortment of +the articles of merchandise as presents, to ensure us a friendly +reception among the Indians, and the ammunition and arms requisite for +defence, as well as a supply for our hunters, were more than our own +canoe could carry, but by the time we should part company, there was +every reason to suppose that our expenditure would make sufficient room +for the whole.</p> + +<p>We proceeded twenty-one miles to the West, and then took a course of +nine miles to North-North-West, when we entered the river, or one of the +branches of the lake, of which there are several. We then steered North +five miles, when our course changed for two miles to North-North-East, +and here at seven in the evening we landed and pitched our tents. One +of the hunters killed a goose, and a couple of ducks: at the same time +the canoe was taken out of the water, to be gummed, which necessary +business was effectually performed.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 4.</i>—We embarked at four this morning, and +proceeded North-North-East half a mile, North one mile and a half, +West <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p195"></A>195}</SPAN>two miles, +North-West two miles, West-North-West one mile and a half, +North-North-West half a mile, and West-North-West two miles, when this +branch loses itself in the Peace River. It is remarkable, that the +currents of these various branches of the lake, when the Peace River is +high, as in May and August, run into the lake, which, in the other +months of the year returns its waters to them; whence, to this place, +the branch is not more than two hundred yards wide, nor less than an +hundred and twenty. The banks are rather low, except in one place, +where an huge rock rises above them, The low land is covered with wood, +such as white birch, pines of different kinds, with the poplar, three +kinds of willow, and the liard.</p> + +<p>The Peace River is upwards of a mile broad at this spot, and its +current is stronger than that of the channel which communicates with the +lake. It here, indeed, assumes the name of the Slave River. +<a name="chap1-l1" href="#chap1-r1">[1]</a> The course of this day was +as follows:—North-West two miles, North-North-West, through +islands, six miles, North four miles and a half, North by East +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p196"></A>196}</SPAN>two +miles, West by North six miles, North one mile, North-East by East +two miles, North one mile. We now descended a rapid, and proceeded +North-West seven miles and a half, North-West nine miles, North by West +six miles, North-West by West one mile and a half, North-West by North +half a mile, North-North-West six miles, North one mile, North-West by +West four miles, North-North-East one mile. Here we arrived at the +mouth of the Dog River, where we landed, and unloaded our canoes, at +half past seven in the evening, on the East side, and close by the +rapids. At this station the river is near two leagues in breadth.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 5.</i>—At three o'clock in the morning we +embarked, but unloaded our canoes at the first rapid. When we had +reloaded, we entered a small channel, which is formed by the islands, +and, in about half an hour, we came to the carrying-place It is three +hundred and eighty paces in length, and very commodious, except at the +further end of it. We found some difficulty in reloading at this spot, +from the large quantity of ice which had not yet thawed. From hence to +the next carrying-place, called the <i>Portage d'Embarras</i>, is about +six miles, and is occasioned by the drift wood filling up the small +channel, which is one thousand and twenty paces in length; from hence to +the next is one +mile <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p197"></A>197}</SPAN> and a half, +while the distance to that which succeeds, does not exceed one hundred +and fifty yards. It is about the same length as the last; and from +hence to the carrying-place called the Mountain, is about four miles +further; when we entered the great river. The smaller one, or the +channel, affords by far the best passage, as it is without hazard of any +kind; though I believe a shorter course would be found on the outside of +the islands, and without so many carrying-places. That called the +Mountain is three hundred and thirty-five paces in length; from thence +to the next, named the Pelican, there is about a mile of dangerous +rapids. The landing is very steep, and close to the fall. The length +of this carrying-place is eight hundred and twenty paces.</p> + +<p>The whole of the party were now employed in taking the baggage and the +canoe up the hill. One of the Indian canoes went down the fall, and was +dashed to pieces. The woman who had the management of it, by quitting +it in time, preserved her life, though she lost the little property it +contained.</p> + +<p>The course from the place we quitted in the morning is about North-West, +and comprehends a distance of fifteen miles. From hence to the next and +last carrying-place, is about nine miles; in which distance there are +three rapids: course North-West by West. The <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p198"></A>198}</SPAN>carrying path is very bad, +and five hundred and thirty-five paces in length. Our canoes being +lightened, passed on the outside of the opposite island, which rendered +the carrying of the baggage very short indeed, being not more than the +length of a canoe. In the year 1786, five men were drowned, and two +canoes and some packages lost, in the rapids on the other side of the +river, which occasioned this place to be called the <i>Portage des Noyes</i>. +They were proceeding to the Slave Lake, in the fall of that year, under +the direction of Mr. Cuthbert Grant. We proceeded from hence six miles, +and encamped on Point de Roche, at half past five in the afternoon. The +men and Indians were very much fatigued; but the hunters had provided +seven geese, a beaver, and four ducks.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 6.</i>—We embarked at half past two in the +morning, and steered North-West by North twenty-one miles, North-West by +West five miles, West-North-West four miles, West six miles, doubled a +point North-North-East one mile, East five miles, North two miles, +North-West by North one mile and a half, West-North-West three miles, +North-East by East two miles; doubled a point one mile and a half, West +by North nine miles, North-West by West six miles, North-North-West five +miles; here we landed at six o'clock in the evening, unloaded, +and <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p199"></A>199}</SPAN>encamped. +Nets were also set in a small adjacent river. We had an head wind +during the greater part of the day and the weather was become so cold +that the Indians were obliged to make use of their mittens. In this +day's progress we killed seven geese and six ducks.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 7.</i>—At half past three we renewed our voyage, +and proceeded West-North-West one mile, round an island one mile, +North-West two miles and a half, South by West three miles, +West-South-West one mile, South-West by South half a mile, North-West +three miles, West-North-West three miles and a half, North seven miles +and a half, North-West by North four miles, North two miles and a half, +North-West by North two miles. The rain, which had prevailed for some +time, now came on with such violence, that we were obliged to land and +unload, to prevent the goods and baggage from getting wet; the weather, +however, soon cleared up, so that we reloaded the canoe, and got under +way. We now continued our course North ten miles, West one mile and a +half, and North one mile and a half, when the rain came on again, and +rendered it absolutely necessary for us to get on shore for the night, +at about half past three. We had a strong North-North-East wind +throughout the day, which greatly impeded +us; <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p200"></A>200}</SPAN> M. Le Roux, +however, with his party, passed on in search of a landing place more +agreeable to them. The Indians killed a couple of geese, and as many +ducks. The rain continued through the remaining part of the day.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 8.</i>—The night was very boisterous, and the +rain did not cease till two in the afternoon of this day; but as the +wind did not abate of its violence, we were prevented from proceeding +till the morrow.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 9.</i>—We embarked at half past two in the +morning, the weather being calm and foggy. Soon after our two young men +joined us, whom we had not seen for two days; but during their absence +they had killed four beavers and ten geese. After a course of one mile +North-West by North, we observed an opening on the right, which we took +for a fork of the river, but it proved to be a lake. We returned and +steered South-West by West one mile and a half, West-South-West one mile +and a half, West one mile, when we entered a very small branch of the +river on the East bank; at the mouth of which I was informed there had +been a carrying-place, owing to the quantity of drift wood, which then +filled up the passage, but has since been carried away. The course of +this river is meandering, and tends to the North, and in about ten miles +falls into the Slave Lake, where we arrived at nine in the <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p201"></A>201}</SPAN>morning, when we found a great +change in the weather, as it was become extremely cold. The lake was +entirely covered with ice, and did not seem in any degree to have given +way, but near the shore. The gnats and mosquitoes, which were very +troublesome during our passage along the river, did not venture to +accompany us to this colder region.</p> + +<p>The banks of the river both above and below the rapids, were on both +sides covered with the various kinds of wood common to this country, +particularly the Western side; the land being lower and consisting of a +rich black soil. This artificial ground is carried down by the stream, +and rests upon drift wood, so as to be eight or ten feet deep. The +eastern banks are more elevated, and the soil a yellow clay mixed with +gravel; so that the trees are neither so large or numerous as on the +opposite shore. The ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in +depth; notwithstanding the leaf was at its full growth; while along the +lake there was scarcely any appearance of verdure.</p> + +<p>The Indians informed me, that, at a very small distance from either bank +of the river, are very extensive plains, frequented by large herds of +buffaloes; while the moose and rein-deer keep in the woods that border +on it. The beavers, which are in great numbers, build their habitations +in the small lakes and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p202"></A>202}</SPAN> +rivers, as, in the larger streams, the ice +carries every thing along with it, during the spring. The mud-banks in +the river are covered with wild fowl; and we this morning killed two +swans, ten geese, and one beaver, without suffering the delay of an +hour; so that we might have soon filled the canoe with them, if that had +been our object.</p> + +<p>From the small river we steered East, along the inside of a long +sand-bank, covered with drift wood and enlivened by a few willows, which +stretches on as far as the houses erected by Messrs. Grant and Le Roux, +in 1786. We often ran aground, as for five successive miles the depth +of the water nowhere exceeded three feet. There we found our people, +who had arrived early in the morning, and whom we had not seen since the +preceding Sunday. We now unloaded the canoe, and pitched our tents, as +there was every appearance that we should be obliged to remain here for +some time. I then ordered the nets to be set, as it was absolutely +necessary that the stores provided for our future voyage should remain +untouched. The fish we now caught were carp, poisson inconnu, white +fish, and trout. +</p> + +<p><i>Wednesday, 10.</i>—It rained during the greatest part of the +preceding night, and the weather did not clear up till the afternoon of +this day. This circumstance had very much +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p203"></A>203}</SPAN> +weakened the ice, and I sent two of the +Indians on an hunting party to a lake at the distance of nine miles, +which, they informed me, was frequented by animals of various kinds. +Our fishery this day was not so abundant as it had been on the preceding +afternoon. +</p> + +<p><i>Thursday, 11.</i>—The weather was fine and clear with a +strong westerly wind. The women were employed in gathering berries of +different sorts, of which there are a great plenty; and I accompanied +one of my people to a small adjacent island, where we picked up some +dozens of swan, geese, and duck-eggs; we also killed a couple of ducks +and a goose.</p> + +<p>In the evening the Indians returned, without having seen any of the +larger animals. A swan and a grey crane were the only fruits of their +expedition. We caught no other fish but a small quantity of pike, which +is too common to be a favourite food with the people of the country, The +ice moved a little to the eastward.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 12.</i>—The weather continued the same as yesterday, and the +mosquitoes began to visit us in great numbers. The ice moved again in +the same direction, and I ascended an hill, but could not perceive that +it was broken in the middle of the lake. The hunters killed a goose and +three ducks.</p> + +<br><p> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p204"></A>204}</SPAN><i>Saturday, +13.</i>—The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable till about +sunset, when it settled in the North. It drove back the ice which was +now very much broken along the shore, and covered our nets. One of the +hunters who had been at the Slave River the preceding evening, returned +with three beavers and fourteen geese. He was accompanied by three +families of Indians, who left Athabasca the same day as myself: they did +not bring me any fowl; and they pleaded in excuse, that they had +travelled with so much expedition, as to prevent them from procuring +sufficient provisions for themselves. By a meridian line, I found the +variation of the compass to be about twenty degrees East.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 14.</i>—The weather was clear and the wind +remained in the same quarter. The ice was much broken, and driven to +the side of the lake, so that we were apprehensive for the loss of our +nets, as they could not, at present, be extricated. At sunset there was +an appearance of a violent gust of wind from the southward, as the sky +became on a sudden, in that quarter, of a very dusky blue colour, and +the lightning was very frequent. But instead of wind there came on a +very heavy rain, which promised to diminish the quantity of broken +ice.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 15.</i>—In the morning, the bay still <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p205"></A>205}</SPAN>continued to be so full +of ice, that we could not get at our nets. About noon, the wind veered +to the Westward, and not only uncovered the nets, but cleared a passage +to the opposite islands. When we raised the nets we found them very +much shattered, and but few fish taken. We now struck our tents, and +embarked at sunset, when we made the traverse, which was about eight +miles North-East by North, in about two hours. At half-past eleven +P. M. we landed on a small island and proceeded to gum the canoe. At +this time the atmosphere was sufficiently clear to admit of reading or +writing without the aid of artificial light. We had not seen a star +since the second day after we left Athabasca. About twelve o'clock, the +moon made its appearance above the tops of the trees, the lower horn +being in a state of eclipse, which continued for about six minutes, in a +cloudless sky.</p> + +<p>I took soundings three times in the course of the traverse, when I found +six fathoms water, with a muddy bottom.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 16.</i>—We were prevented from embarking this +morning by a very strong wind from the North, and the vast quantity of +floating ice. Some trout were caught with the hook and line, but the +net was not so successful. I had an observation which gave +61. 28. North latitude.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p206"></A>206}</SPAN>The wind becoming +moderate, we embarked about one, taking a North-West +course, through islands of ten miles, in which we took in a considerable +quantity of water. After making several traverses, we landed at five +P. M., and having pitched our tents, the hooks, lines, and nets were +immediately set. During the course of the day there was occasional +thunder.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 17.</i>—We proceeded, and taking up our nets +as we passed, we found no more than seventeen fish, and were stopped +within a mile by the ice. The Indians, however, brought us back to a +point where our fishery was very successful. They proceeded also on a +hunting party, as well as to discover a passage among the islands; but +at three in the afternoon they returned without having succeeded in +either object. We were, however, in expectation, that, as the wind blew +very strong, it would force a passage. About sunset, the weather became +overcast, with thunder, lightning, and rain.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 18.</i>—The nets were taken up at four this +morning with abundance of fish, and we steered North-West four miles, +where the ice again prevented our progress. A South-East wind drove it +among the islands, in such a manner as to impede our passage, and we +could perceive at some distance ahead, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p207"></A>207}</SPAN>that it was but little broken. We now set our +nets in four fathom water. Two of our hunters had killed a rein-deer +and its fawn. They had met with two Indian families, and in the +evening, a man belonging to one of them, paid us a visit; he informed +me, that the ice had not, stirred on the side of the island opposite to +us. These people live entirely on fish, and were waiting to cross the +lake as soon as it should be clear of ice.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 19.</i>—This morning our nets were unproductive, +as they yielded us no more than six fish, which were of a very bad kind. +In the forenoon, the Indians proceeded to the large island opposite to +us, in search of game. The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable; +at the same time, we were pestered by mosquitoes, though, in a great +measure, surrounded with ice.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 20.</i>—We took up our nets, but without any +fish. It rained very hard during the night and this morning: +nevertheless, M. Le Roux and his people went back to the point which we +had quitted on the 18th, but I did not think it prudent to move. As I +was watching for a passage through the ice, I promised to send for them +when I could obtain it. It rained at intervals till about five o'clock; +when we loaded our canoe, and steered for the large island, West six +miles. <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p208"></A>208}</SPAN>When we +came to the point of it, we found a great quantity of ice; we, however, +set our nets, and soon caught plenty of fish. In our way thither we met +our hunters, but they had taken nothing. I took soundings at an hundred +yards from the island, when we were in twenty-one fathom water. Here we +found abundance of cranberries and small spring onions. I now +despatched two men for M. Le Roux, and his people.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 21.</i>—A Southerly wind blew through the night, +and drove the ice to the Northward. The two men whom I had sent to +M. Le Roux, returned at eight this morning; they parted with him at a +small distance from us, but the wind blew so hard, that he was obliged +to put to shore. Having a glimpse of the sun, when it was twelve by my +watch, I found the latitude 61. 34. North latitude. At two in the +afternoon, M. Le Roux and his people arrived. At five, the ice being +almost all driven past to the Northward, we accordingly embarked, and +steered West fifteen miles, through much broken ice, and on the outside +of the islands, though it appeared to be very solid to the North-East. +I sounded three times in this distance, and found it seventy-five, +forty-four, and sixty fathom water. We pitched our tents on one of a +cluster of small islands that were within three miles of the main +land, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p209"></A>209}</SPAN>which we +could not reach in consequence of the ice.</p> + +<p>We saw some rein-deer on one of these islands, and our hunters went in +pursuit of them, when they killed five large and two small ones, which +was easily accomplished, as the animals had no shelter to which they +could run for protection. They had, without doubt, crossed the ice to +this spot, and the thaw coming on had detained them there, and made them +an easy prey to the pursuer. This island was accordingly named Isle de +Carreboeuf.</p> + +<p>I sat up the whole of this night to observe the setting and rising of +the sun. That orb was beneath the horizon four hours twenty-two +minutes, and rose North 20. East by compass. It, however, froze so +hard, that, during the sun's disappearance, the water was covered with +ice half a quarter of an inch thick.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 22.</i>—We embarked at half past three in the +morning, and rounding the outside of the islands, steered North-West +thirteen miles along the ice, edging in for the main land, the wind +West, then West two miles; but it blew so hard as to oblige us to land +on an island at half past nine, from whence we could just distinguish +land to the South-East, at the distance of about twelve leagues; though +we could not determine +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p210"></A>210}</SPAN> whether +it was a continuation of the islands, or the shores of the +lake.<a name="chap1-l2" href="#chap1-r2">[2]</a> I took an observation at +noon, which gave me 61. 53. North, the variation of the compass being, at +the same time, about two points. M. Le Roux's people having provided two bags +of <i>pemmican</i>.<a name= "chap1-l3" href="#chap1-r3">[3]</a> to be left in +the island against their return; it was called <i>Isle a la Cache</i>.</p> + +<p>The wind being moderated, we proceeded again at half past two in the +afternoon, and steering West by North among the islands, made as course +of eighteen miles. We encamped at eight o'clock on a small island, and +since eight in the morning had not passed any ice. Though the weather +was far from being warm, we were tormented, and our rest interrupted, by +the host of mosquitoes that accompanied us.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="chap1-r1" href="#chap1-l1">[1]</a> The +Slave Indians, having been driven from their original country by their +enemies, the Knisteneaux, along the borders of this part of the river, +it received that title, though it by no means involves the idea of +servitude, but was given to these fugitives as a term of reproach, that +denoted more than common savageness.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="chap1-r2" href="#chap1-l2">[2]</a> +Sometimes the land looms, so that there may be a great deception as to +the distance; and I think this was the case at present.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="chap1-r3" href="#chap1-l3">[3]</a> Flesh +dried in the sun, and afterwards pounded for the convenience of +carriage.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p211"></A>211}</SPAN> +<center><h4> <a name="chapter2" href="#toc_chapter2"> CHAPTER II.</a></h4></center> + +<p class="noindent">JUNE, 1789.</p> + +<p><i>Tuesday, 23.</i>—Towards morning, the Indians who had not +been able to keep up with us the preceding day, now joined us, and +brought two swans and a goose. At half past three we re-embarked, and +steering West by North a mile and and half, with a Northerly wind, we +came to the foot of a traverse across a deep bay, West five miles, which +receives a considerable river at the bottom of it; the distance about +twelve miles. The North-West side of the bay was covered with many +small islands that were surrounded with ice; but the wind driving it a +little off the land, we had a clear passage on the inside of them. We +steered South-West nine miles under sail, then North-West nearly, +through the islands, forming a course of sixteen miles. We landed on +the main land at half past two in the afternoon at three lodges of +Red-Knife Indians, so called from their copper knives. They informed +us, that there were many more lodges of their friends at no great +distance; and one of the Indians set off to fetch them: they also said, +that we should see no more of them at present; as the Slave and +Beaver <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p212"></A>212}</SPAN>Indians, as +well as others of the tribe, would not be here till the time that the +swans cast their feathers. In the afternoon it rained a torrent.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 24.</i>—M. Le Roux purchased of these Indians +upwards of eight packs of good beaver and marten skins; and there were +not above twelve of them qualified to kill beaver. The English chief +got upwards of an hundred skins on the score of debts due to him, of +which he had many outstanding in this country. Forty of them he gave on +account of debts due by him since the winters of 1786 and 1787, at the +Slave Lake; the rest he exchanged for rum and other necessary articles; +and I added a small quantity of that liquor as an encouraging present to +him and his young men. I had several consultations with these Copper +Indian people, but could obtain no information that was material to our +expedition; nor were they acquainted with any part of the river, which +was the object of my research, but the mouth of it. In order to save as +much time as possible in circumnavigating the bays, I engaged one of the +Indians to conduct us; and I accordingly equipped him with various +articles of clothing, etc. I also purchased a large new canoe, that he +might embark with the two young Indians in my service.</p> + +<p>This day, at noon, I took an observation, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p213"></A>213}</SPAN>which gave me 62. 24. North latitude; the variation +of the compass being about twenty-six or twenty-seven degrees to the East.</p> + +<p>In the afternoon I assembled the Indians, in order to inform them that I +should take my departure on the following day; but that people would +remain on the spot till their countrymen, whom they had mentioned, +should arrive; and that, if they brought a sufficient quantity of skins +to make it answer, the Canadians would return for more goods, with a +view to winter here, and build a fort,<a name="chap2-l1" href= +"#chap2-r1">[1]</a> which would be continued as +long as they should be found to deserve it. They assured me that it +would be a great encouragement to them to have a settlement of ours in +their country; and that they should exert themselves to the utmost to +kill beaver, as they would then be certain of getting an adequate value +for them. Hitherto, they said, the Chepewyans always pillaged them; or, +at most, gave little or nothing for the fruits of their labour, which +had greatly discouraged them; and that, in consequence of this +treatment, they had no motive to pursue the beaver, but to obtain a +sufficient quantity of food and raiment.</p> + +<p>I now wrote to Messrs. Macleod and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p214"></A>214}</SPAN>Mackenzie, and addressed my papers to the former, +at Athabasca.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 25.</i>—We left this place at three this +morning, our canoe being deeply laden, as we had embarked some packages +that had come in the canoes of M. Le Roux. We were saluted on our +departure with some volleys of small arms, which we returned, and +steered South by West straight across the bay, which is here no more +than two miles and a half broad, but, from the accounts of the natives, +it is fifteen leagues in depth, with a much greater breadth in several +parts, and full of islands. I sounded in the course of the traverse and +found six fathoms with a sandy bottom. Here, the land has a very +different appearance from that on which we have been since we entered +the lake. Till we arrived here there was one continued view of high +hills and islands of solid rock, whose surface was occasionally +enlivened with moss, shrubs, and a few scattered trees, of a very +stinted growth, from an insufficiency of soil to nourish them. But, +notwithstanding their barren appearance, almost every part of them +produces berries of various kinds, such as cranberries, juniper berries, +raspberries, partridge berries, gooseberries, and the pathegomenan, +which is something like a raspberry; it grows on a small stalk about a +foot and a half high, in wet, mossy spots. These +fruits <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p215"></A>215}</SPAN> are in +great abundance, though they are not to be found in the same places, but +in situations and aspects suited to their peculiar natures.</p> + +<p>The land which borders the lake in this part is loose and sandy, but is +well covered with wood, composed of trees of a larger growth: it +gradually rises from the shore, and at some distance forms a ridge of +high land running along the coast, thick with wood and a rocky summit +rising above it.</p> + +<p>We steered South-South-East nine miles, when we were very much +interrupted by drifting ice, and with some difficulty reached an island, +where we landed at seven. I immediately proceeded to the further part +of it, in order to discover if there was any probability of our being +able to get from thence in the course of the day. It is about five +miles in circumference, and I was very much surprised to find that the +greater part of the wood with which it was formerly covered, had been +cut down within twelve or fifteen years, and that the remaining stumps +were become altogether rotten. On making inquiry concerning the cause +of this extraordinary circumstance, the English chief informed me, that +several winters ago, many of the Slave Indians inhabited the islands +that were scattered over the bay, as the surrounding waters abound with +fish throughout the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p216"></A>216}</SPAN> +year, but that they had been driven away by the +Knisteneaux, who continually made war upon them. If an establishment is +to be made in this country, it must be in the neighbourhood of this +place, on account of the wood and fishery.</p> + +<p>At eleven we ventured to re-embark, as the wind had driven the greatest +part of the ice past the island, though we still had to encounter some +broken pieces of it, which threatened to damage our canoe. We steered +South-East from point to point across five bays, twenty-one miles. We +took soundings several times, and found from six to ten fathom water. I +observed that the country gradually descended inland, and was still +better covered with wood than in the higher parts.—Wherever we +approached the land, we perceived deserted lodges, The hunters killed +two swans and a beaver; and at length we landed at eight o'clock in the +evening, when we unloaded and gummed our canoe.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 26.</i>—We continued our route at five o'clock, +steering South-East for ten miles across two deep bays; then +South-South-East, with islands in sight to the Eastward. We then +traversed another bay in a course of three miles, then South one mile to +a point which we named the Detour, and South-South-West four miles and +an half, when there was an heavy swell of the lake. Here I took +an <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p217"></A>217}</SPAN>observation, +when we were in 61. 40. North latitude We then proceeded South-West four +miles, and West-South-West among islands: on one of which our Indians +killed two rein-deer, but we lost three hours aft wind in going for +them: this course was nine miles. About seven in the evening we were +obliged to land for the night, as the wind became too strong from the +South-East. We thought we could observe land in this direction when the +wind was coming on from some distance. On the other side of the Detour, +the land is low, and the shore is flat and dangerous, there being no +safe place to land in bad weather, except in the islands which we had +just passed. There seemed to be plenty of moose and rein-deer in this +country, as we saw their tracks wherever we landed. There are also +great numbers of white partridges, which were at this season of a grey +colour, like that of the moor-fowl. There was some floating ice in the +lake, and the Indians killed a couple of swans.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 27.</i>—At three this morning we were in the +canoe, after having passed a very restless night from the persecution of +the mosquitoes The weather was fine and calm, and our course +West-South-West nine miles, when we came to the foot of a traverse, the +opposite point in sight bearing South-West, distance twelve miles. The +bay is at least +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p218"></A>218}</SPAN> +eight miles deep, and this course two miles more, in all ten miles. It +now became very foggy, and as the bays were so numerous, we landed for +two hours, when the weather cleared up, and we took the advantage of +steering South thirteen miles, and passed several small bays, when we +came to the point of a very deep one, whose extremity was not +discernible; the land bearing South from us, at the distance of about +ten miles. Our guide not having been here for eight winters, was at a +loss what course to take, though as well as he could recollect, this bay +appeared to be the entrance of the river. Accordingly, we steered down +it, about West-South-West, till we were involved in a field of broken +ice. We still could not discover the bottom of the bay, and a fog +coming on, made it very difficult for us to get to an island to the +South-West, and it was nearly dark when we effected a landing.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 28.</i>—At a quarter past three we were again on +the water, and as we could perceive no current setting into this bay, we +made the best of our way to the point that bore South from us yesterday +afternoon. We continued our course South three miles more, South by +West seven miles, West fifteen miles, when by observation we were in 61 +degrees North latitude; we then proceeded West-North-West two miles. +Here we came <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p219"></A>219}</SPAN>to +the foot of a traverse, the opposite land bearing South-West, distance +fourteen miles, when we steered into a deep bay, about a westerly +course; and though we had no land ahead in sight, we indulged the hope +of finding a passage, which, according to the Indian, would conduct us +to the entrance of the river.</p> + +<p>Having a strong wind aft, we lost sight of the Indians, nor could we +put on shore to wait for them, without risking material damage to the +canoe, till we ran to the bottom of the bay, and were forced among the +rushes; when we discovered that there was no passage there. In about +two or three hours they joined us, but would not approach our fire, as +there was no good ground for an encampment: they emptied their canoe of +the water which it had taken in, and continued their route, but did not +encamp till sunset The English chief was very much irritated against the +Red-Knife Indian, and even threatened to murder him, for having +undertaken to guide us in a course of which he was ignorant, nor had we +any reason to be satisfied with him, though he still continued to +encourage us, by declaring that he recollected having passed from the +river, through the woods, to the place where he had landed. In the +blowing weather to-day, we were obliged to make use of our large kettle, +to keep our canoe from filling, although we did not carry +above <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p220"></A>220}</SPAN>three feet +sail. The Indians very narrowly escaped.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 29.</i>—We embarked at four this morning, and +steered along the South-West side of the bay. At half past five we +reached the extremity of the point, which we doubled, and found it to be +the branch or passage that was the object of our search, and occasioned +by a very long island, which separates it from the main channel of the +river. It is about half a mile across, and not more than six feet in +depth; the water appeared to abound in fish, and was covered with fowl, +such as swans, geese, and several kinds of ducks, particularly black +ducks, that were very numerous, but we could not get within gun shot of +them.</p> + +<p>The current, though not very strong, set us South-West by West, and +we followed this course fourteen miles, till we passed the point of the +long island, where the Slave Lake discharges itself, and is ten miles in +breadth. There is not more than from five to two fathom water, so that +when the lake is low, it may be presumed the greatest part of this +channel must be dry. The river now turns to the Westward, becoming +gradually narrower for twenty-four miles, till it is not more than half +a mile wide; the current, however, is then much stronger, and the +sounding were three fathom and a half. +The <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p221"></A>221}</SPAN>land on the +North shore from the lake is low, and covered with trees; that to the +South is much higher, and has also an abundance of wood. The current is +very strong, and the banks are of an equal height on both sides, +consisting of a yellow clay, mixed with small stones; they are covered +with large quantities of burned wood, lying on the ground, and young +poplar trees, that have sprung up since the fire that destroyed the +larger wood. It is a very curious and extraordinary circumstance, that +land covered with spruce pine, and white birch, when laid waste by fire, +should subsequently produce nothing but poplars, where none of that +species of tree were previously to be found.</p> + +<p>A stiff breeze from the Eastward drove us on at a great rate under sail, +in the same course, though obliged to wind among the islands. We kept +the North channel for about ten miles, whose current is much stronger +than that of the South; so that the latter is consequently the better +road to come up. Here the river widened, and the wind dying away, we +had recourse to our paddles. We kept our course to the North-West, on +the North side of the river, which is here much wider, and assumes the +form of a small lake; we could not, however, discover an opening in any +direction, so that we were at a loss what course to take, as our +Red-Knife <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p222"></A>222}</SPAN> +Indian had never explored beyond our present situation. He at +the same time informed us that a river falls in from the North, which +takes its rise in the Horn Mountain, now in sight, which is the country +of the Beaver Indians; and that he and his relations frequently meet on +that river. He also added, that there are very extensive plains on both +sides of it, which abound in buffaloes and moose deer.</p> + +<p>By keeping this course, we got into shallows, so that we were forced to +steer to the left, till we recovered deep water, which we followed till +the channel of the river opened on us to the southward, we now made for +the shore, and encamped soon after sunset. Our course ought to have +been West fifteen miles, since we took to the paddle, the Horn Mountains +bearing from us North-West, and running North-North-East and South-South +West. Our soundings, which were frequent during the course of the day, +were from three to six fathoms water. The hunters killed two geese and +a swan: it appeared, indeed, that great numbers of fowls breed in the +islands which we had passed.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 30.</i>—At four this morning we got under way, +the weather being fine and calm. Our course was South-West by South +thirty-six miles. On the South side of the river is a ridge of low +mountains, running East +and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p223"></A>223}</SPAN> West by +compass. The Indians picked up a white goose, which appeared to have +been lately shot with an arrow, and was quite fresh. We proceeded +South-West by South six miles, and then came to a bay on our left, which +is full of small islands, and appeared to be the entrance of a river +from the South. Here the ridge of mountains terminates. This course +was fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>At six in the afternoon there was an appearance of bad weather; we +landed therefore, for the night; but before we could pitch our tents, a +violent tempest came on, with thunder, lightning, and rain, which, +however, soon ceased, but not before we had suffered the inconvenience +of being drenched by it. The Indians were very much fatigued, having +been employed in running after wild fowl, which had lately cast their +feathers; they, however, caught five swans, and the same number of +geese. I sounded several times in the course of the day, and found from +four to six fathoms water.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name = "chap2-r1" href = "#chap2-l1">[1]</a> Fort +is the name given to any establishment in this country.</p> + +<p></p> +<br> +<br> +<br><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p224"></A>224}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter3" href="#toc_chapter3"> CHAPTER III.</a> +</h4> +</center> + +<p class=noindent>JULY, 1789.</p> + +<p><i>Wednesday, 1.</i>—At half past four in the morning we +continued our voyage, and in a short time found the river narrowed to +about half a mile. Our course was Westerly among islands, with a strong +current. Though the land is high on both sides, the banks are not +perpendicular. This course was twenty-one miles; and on sounding we +found nine fathoms water. We then proceeded West-North-West nine miles, +and passed a river upon the South-East side; we sounded, and found +twelve fathoms; and then we went North-West by West three miles. Here I +lost my lead, which had fastened at the bottom, with part of the line, +the current running so strong that we could not clear it with eight +paddles, and the strength of the line, which was equal to four paddles. +Continued North by West five miles, and saw a high mountain, bearing +South from us; we then proceeded North-West by North four miles. We now +passed a small river on the North side, then doubled a point to +West-South-West. At one o'clock there came on lightning and thunder, +with wind and rain, which ceased in about half +an <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p225"></A>225}</SPAN> hour, and left +us almost deluged with wet, as we did not land. There were great +quantities of ice along the banks of the river.</p> + +<p>We landed upon a small island, where there were the poles of four lodges +standing, which we concluded to have belonged to the Knisteneaux, on +their war excursions, six or seven years ago. This course was fifteen +miles West, to where the river of the Mountain falls in from the +Southward. It appears to be a very large river, whose mouth is half a +mile broad. About six miles further a small river flows in the same +direction; and our whole course was twenty-four miles. We landed +opposite to an island, the mountains to the Southward being in sight. +As our canoe was deeply laden, and being also in daily expectation of +coming to the rapids or fall, which we had been taught to consider with +apprehension, we concealed two bags of pemmican in the opposite island, +in the hope that they would be of future service to us. The Indians +were of a different opinion, as they entertained no expectation of +returning that season, when the hidden provisions would be spoiled. Near +us were two Indian encampments of the last year. By the manner in which +these people cut their wood, it appears that they have no iron tools. +The current was very strong during the whole of this day's voyage, and +in the article of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p226"></A>226}</SPAN> +provisions two swans were all that the hunters were +able to procure.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 2.</i>—The morning was very foggy: but at half +past five we embarked; it cleared up, however, at seven, when we +discovered that the water, from being very limpid and clear, was become +dark and muddy. This alteration must have proceeded from the influx of +some river to the Southward, but where these streams first blended their +waters, the fog had prevented us from observing. At nine we perceived a +very high mountain ahead, which appeared, on our nearer approach, to be +rather a cluster of mountains, stretching as far as our view could reach +to the Southward, and whose tops were lost in the clouds. At noon there +was lightning, thunder, and rain, and at one, we came abreast of the +mountains; their summits appeared to be barren and rocky, but their +declivities were covered with wood; they appeared also to be sprinkled +with white stones, which glistened in the sun, and were called by the +Indians manetoe aseniak, or spirit stones. I suspected that they were +Talc, though they possessed a more brilliant whiteness; on our return, +however, these appearances were dissolved, as they were nothing more +than patches of snow.</p> + +<p>Our course had been West-South-West thirty miles and we proceeded +with great <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p227"></A>227}</SPAN> +caution, as we continually expected to approach some great rapid or +fall. This was such a prevalent idea, that all of us were occasionally +persuaded that we heard those sounds which betokened a fall of water. +Our course changed to West by North, along the mountains, twelve miles, +North by West, twenty-one miles, and at eight o'clock in the evening, we +went on shore for the night, on the North side of the river. We saw +several encampments of the natives, some of which had been erected in +the present spring, and others at some former period. The hunters +killed only one swan and a beaver; the latter was the first of its kind +which we had seen in this river. The Indians complained of the +perseverance with which we pushed forward, and that they were not +accustomed to such severe fatigue as it occasioned.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 3.</i>—The rain was continual through the night, +and did not subside till seven this morning, when we embarked and +steered North-North-West for twelve miles, the river being enclosed by +high mountains on either side. We had a strong head-wind, and the rain +was so violent as to compel us to land at ten o' clock. According to my +reckoning, since my last observation, we had run two hundred and +seventeen miles West, and forty-four miles North. At a quarter past two +the rain subsided, and we got again under way, <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p228"></A>228}</SPAN>our former course continuing +for five miles. Here a river fell in from the North, and in a short +time the current became strong and rapid, running with great rapidity +among rocky islands, which were the first that we had seen in this +river, and indicated our near approach to rapids and falls. Our present +course was North-West by North ten miles, North-West three miles, +West-North-West twelve miles, and North-West three miles, when we +encamped at eight in the evening, at the foot of an high hill, on the +North shore, which in some parts rose perpendicular from the river. I +immediately ascended it, accompanied by two men and some Indians, and in +about an hour and an half, with very hard walking, we gained the summit, +when I was very much surprised to find it crowned by an encampment. The +Indians informed me, that it is the custom of the people who have no +arms to choose these elevated spots for the places of their residence, +as they can render them inaccessible to their enemies, particularly the +Knisteneaux, of whom they are in continual dread. The prospect from +this height was not so extensive as we expected, as it was terminated by +a circular range of hills, of the same elevation as that on which we +stood. The intervals between the hills were covered with small lakes, +which were inhabited by great numbers of swans. We <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p229"></A>229}</SPAN>saw no trees but the pine and +the birch, which were small in size and few in number.</p> + +<p>We were obliged to shorten our stay here, from the swarms of mosquitoes +which attacked us on all sides and were, indeed, the only inhabitants of +the place. We saw several encampments of the natives in the course of +the day, but none of them were of this year's establishment. Since four +in the afternoon the current had been so strong, that it was at length, +in an actual ebullition, and produced an hissing noise like a kettle of +water in a moderate state of boiling. The weather was now become +extremely cold, which was the more sensibly felt, as it had been very +sultry sometime before and since we had been in the river.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 4.</i>—At five in the morning, the wind and +weather having undergone no alteration from yesterday, we proceeded +North-West by West twenty-two miles, North-West six miles, North-West by +North four miles and West-North-West five miles; we then passed the +mouth of a small river from the North, and after doubling a point, +South-West one mile, we passed the influx of an other river from the +South. We then continued our course North-North-West, with a mountain +ahead, fifteen miles, when the opening of two rivers appeared opposite +to each other: we then proceeded West four +miles, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p230"></A>230}</SPAN> and +North-West thirteen miles. At eight in the evening, we encamped on an +island. The current was as strong through the whole of this day as it +had been the preceding after-noon; nevertheless, a quantity of ice +appeared along the banks of the river. The hunters killed a beaver and +a goose, the former of which sunk before they could get to him: beavers, +otters, bears, etc., if shot dead at once, remain like a bladder, but if +there remains enough of life for them to struggle, they soon fill with +water and go to the bottom.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 5.</i>—The sun set last night at fifty-three +minutes past nine, by my watch, and rose at seven minutes before two +this morning: we embarked soon after, steering North-North-West, through +islands for five miles, and West four miles. The river then increased +in breadth, and the current began to slacken in a small degree; after +the continuation of our course, we perceived a ridge of high mountains +before us, covered with snow. West-South-West ten miles, and at +three-quarters past seven o'clock, we saw several smokes on the North +shore, which we made every exertion to approach. As we drew nearer, we +discovered the natives running about in great apparent confusion; some +were making to the woods, and others hurrying to their canoes. Our +hunters landed before +us, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p231"></A>231}</SPAN>and addressed +the few that had not escaped, in the Chipewyan language, which, so great +was their confusion and terror, they did not appear to understand. But +when they perceived that it was impossible to avoid us, as we were all +landed, they made us signs to keep at a distance, with which we +complied, and not only unloaded our canoe, but pitched our tents, before +we made any attempt to approach them. During this interval, the English +chief and his young men were employed in reconciling them to our +arrival; and when they had recovered from their alarm of hostile +intention, it appeared that some of them perfectly comprehended the +language of our Indians; so that they were at length persuaded, though +not without evident signs of reluctance and apprehension, to come to us. +Their reception, however, soon dissipated their fears, and they hastened +to call their fugitive companions from their hiding places.</p> + +<p>There were five families, consisting of twenty-five or thirty persons, +and of two different tribes, the Slave and Dog-rib Indians. We made +them smoke, though it was evident they did not know the use of tobacco; +we likewise supplied them with grog; but I am disposed to think, that +they accepted our civilities rather from fear than inclination. We +acquired a more effectual influence over them by the distribution of +knives, beads, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p232"></A>232}</SPAN> +awls, rings, gartering, fire-steels, flints, and hatchets; +so that they became more familiar even than we expected, for we could +not keep them out of our tents: though I did not observe that they +attempted to purloin any-thing.</p> + +<p>The information which they gave respecting the river, had so much of the +fabulous, that I shall not detail it: it will be sufficient just to +mention their attempts to persuade us that it would require several +winters to get to the sea, and that old age would come upon us before +the period of our return: we were also to encounter monsters of such +horrid shapes and destructive powers as could only exist in their wild +imaginations. They added, besides, that there were two impassable falls +in the river, the first of which was about thirty days march from us.</p> + +<p>Though I placed no faith in these strange relations, they had a very +different effect upon our Indians, who were already tired of the voyage. +It was their opinion and anxious wish, that we should not hesitate to +return. They said that, according to the information which they had +received, there were very few animals in the country beyond us, and that +as we proceeded, the scarcity would increase, and we should absolutely +perish from hunger, if no other accident befel us. It was with no small +trouble that <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p233"></A>233}</SPAN> +they were convinced of the folly of these reasonings; and +by my desire, they induced one of those Indians to accompany us, in +consideration of a small kettle, an axe, a knife, and some other +articles.</p> + +<p>Though it was now three o'clock in the afternoon, the canoe was ordered +to be re-loaded, and as we were ready to embark our new recruit was +desired to prepare himself for his departure, which he would have +declined; but as none of his friends would take his place, we may be +said, after the delay of an hour, to have compelled him to embark. +Previous to his departure a ceremony took place, of which I could not +learn the meaning; he cut off a lock of his hair, and having divided it +into three parts, he fastened one of them to the hair on the upper part +of his wife's head, blowing on it three times with the utmost violence +in his power, and uttering certain words. The other two he fastened +with the same formalities, on the heads of his two children.</p> + +<p>During our short stay with these people, they amused us with dancing, +which they accompanied with their voices: but neither their song or +their dance possessed much variety. The men and women formed a +promiscuous ring. The former have a bone dagger or piece of stick +between the fingers of the right hand, which they keep extended <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p234"></A>234}</SPAN>above +the head, in continual motion: the left they seldom raise so high, but +work it backwards and forwards in a horizontal direction; while they +leap about and throw themselves into various antic postures, to the +measure of their music, always bringing their heels close to each other +at every pause. The men occasionally howl in imitation of some animal, +and he who continues this violent exercise for the longest period, +appears to be considered as the best performer. The women suffer their +arms to hang as without the power of motion. They are a meagre, ugly, +ill-made people, particularly about the legs, which are very clumsy and +covered with scabs. The latter circumstance proceeds probably from +their habitually roasting them before the fire. Many of them appeared +to be in a very unhealthy state, which is owing, as I imagine, to their +natural filthiness. They are of a moderate stature, and as far as could +be discovered, through the coat of dirt and grease that covers them, are +of a fairer complexion than the generality of Indians who are the +natives of warmer climates.</p> + +<p>Some of them have their hair of a great length; while others suffer a +long tress to fall behind, and the rest is cut so short as to expose +their ears, but no other attention whatever is paid to it. The beards +of some of the old men were long, and the rest had <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p235"></A>235}</SPAN>them pulled out by +the roots so that not a hair could be seen on their chins. The men have +two double lines, either black or blue, tattooed upon each cheek, from +the ear to the nose. The gristle of the latter is perforated so as to +admit a goose-quill or a small piece of wood to be passed through the +orifice. Their clothing is made of the dressed skins of the rein or +moose-deer, though more commonly of the former. These they prepare in +the hair for winter, and make shirts of both, which reach to the middle +of their thighs. Some of them are decorated with an embroidery of very +neat workmanship with porcupine quills and the hair of the moose, +coloured red, black, yellow, and white. Their upper garments are +sufficiently large to cover the whole body, with a fringe round the +bottom, and are used both sleeping and awake. Their leggins come half +way up the thigh, and are sewed to their shoes: they are embroidered +round the ancle, and upon every seam. The dress of the women is the +same as that of the men. The former have no covering on their private +parts, except a tassel of leather which dangles from a small cord, as it +appears, to keep off the flies, which would otherwise be very +troublesome. Whether circumcision be practised among them, I cannot +pretend to say, but the appearance of it was general among those whom I +saw.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p236"></A>236}</SPAN> +Their ornaments consist of gorgets, bracelets for the arms and wrists, +made of wood, horn, or bone, belts, garters, and a kind of band to go +round the head, composed of strips of leather of one inch and an half +broad, embroidered with porcupine quills, and stuck round with the claws +of bears or wild fowl inverted, to which are suspended a few short +thongs of the skin of an animal that resembles the ermine, in the form +of a tassel. Their cinctures and garters are formed of porcupine quills +woven with sinews, in a style of peculiar skill and neatness: they have +others of different materials, and more ordinary workmanship; and to +both they attach a long fringe of strings of leather, worked round with +hair of various colours. Their mittens are also suspended from the neck +in a position convenient for the reception of the hands.</p> + +<p>Their lodges are of a very simple structure: a few poles supported by a +fork, and forming a semicircle at the bottom, with some branches or a +piece of bark as a covering, constitutes the whole of their native +architecture. They build two of these huts facing each other, and make +the fire between them. The furniture harmonises with the buildings: +they have a few dishes of wood, bark, or horn; the vessels in which they +cook their victuals are in the shape of a gourd, narrow at the top and +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p237"></A>237}</SPAN> +wide at the bottom, and of watape,<a name="chap3-l1" href= +"#chap3-r1">[1]</a> fabricated in such a manner as to +hold water, which is made to boil by putting a succession of red-hot +stones into it. These vessels contain from two to six gallons. They +have a number of small leather bags to hold their embroidered work, +lines, and nets. They always keep an large quantity of the fibres of +willow bark, which they work into thread on their thighs. Their nets +are from three to forty fathoms in length, and from thirteen to +thirty-six inches in depth. The short deep ones they set in the eddy +current of rivers, and the long ones in the lakes. They likewise make +lines of the sinews of the rein-deer, and manufacture their hooks from +wood, horn, or bone. Their arms and weapons for hunting, are bows and +arrows, spears, daggers, and pogamagans, or clubs. The bows are about +five or six feet in length, and the strings are of sinews or raw skins. +The arrows are two feet and an half long, including the barb, which is +variously formed of bone, horn, flint, iron, or copper, and are winged +with three feathers. The pole of the spears <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p238"></A>238}</SPAN>is about six feet in +length, and pointed with a barbed bone of ten inches. With this weapon +they strike the rein-deer in the water. The daggers are flat and +sharp-pointed, about twelve inches long, and made of horn or bone. The +pogamagon is made of the horn of the rein-deer, the branches being all +cut off, except that which forms the extremity. This instrument is +about two feet in length, and is employed to despatch their enemies in +battle, and such animals as they catch in snares placed for that +purpose. These are about three fathom long, and are made of the green +skin of the rein or moose-deer, but in such small strips, that it +requires from ten to thirty strands to make this cord, which is not +thicker than a cod-line; and strong enough to resist any animal that can +be entangled in it. Snares or nooses are also made of sinews to take +lesser animals, such as hares and white partridges, which are very +numerous. Their axes are manufactured of a piece of brown or grey stone +from six to eight inches long, and two inches thick. The inside is +flat, and the outside round and tapering to an edge, an inch wide. They +are fastened by the middle with the flat side inwards to a handle two +feet long, with a cord of green skin. This is the tool with which they +split their wood, and we believe, the only one of its kind among them, +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p239"></A>239}</SPAN> +They kindle fire, by striking together a piece of white or yellow +pyrites and a flint stone, over a piece of touchwood. They are +universally provided with a small bag containing these materials, so +that they are in a continual state of preparation to produce fire. From +the adjoining tribes, the Red-Knives and Chepewyans, they procure, in +barter for marten skins and a few beaver, small pieces of iron, of which +they manufacture knives, by fixing them at the end of a short stick, and +with them and the beaver's teeth, they finish all their work. They keep +them in a sheath hanging to their neck, which also contains their awls +both of iron and horn.</p> + +<p>Their canoes are small, pointed at both ends, flat-bottomed and covered +in the fore part. They are made of the bark of the birch-tree and +fir-wood, but of so slight a construction, that the man whom one of +these light vessels bears on the water, can, in return, carry it over +land without any difficulty. It is very seldom that more than one +person embarks in them, nor are they capable of receiving more than two. +The paddles are six feet long, one half of which is occupied by a blade +of about eight inches wide. These people informed us, that we had +passed large bodies of Indians who inhabit the mountains on the east +side of the river.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon we embarked, and <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p240"></A>240}</SPAN>our Indian acquaintance +promised to remain on the bank of the river till the fall, in case we +should return. Our course was West-South-West, and we soon passed the +Great Bear Lake River, which is of a considerable depth and an hundred +yards wide: its water is clear, and has the greenish hue of the sea. We +had not proceeded more than six miles when we were obliged to land for +the night, in consequence of an heavy gust of wind, accompanied with +rain. We encamped beneath a rocky hill, on the top of which, according +to the information of our guide, it blew a storm every day throughout +the year. He found himself very uncomfortable in his new situation, and +pretended that he was very ill, in order that he might be permitted to +return to his relations. To prevent his escape, it became necessary to +keep a strict watch over him during the night.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 6.</i>—At three o'clock, in a very raw and +cloudy morning, we embarked, and steered West-South-West four miles, +West four miles, West-North-West five miles, West eight miles, West by +South fifteen miles, West twenty-seven miles, South-West nine miles, +then West six miles, and encamped at half past seven. We passed through +numerous islands, and had a ridge of snowy mountains always in sight. +Our conductor informed us that great numbers +of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p241"></A>241}</SPAN>bears and small +white buffaloes, frequent those mountains, which are also inhabited by +Indians. We encamped in a similar situation to that of the preceding +evening, beneath another high rocky hill, which I attempted to ascend, +in company with one of the hunters, but before we had got half way to +the summit, we were almost suffocated by clouds of mosquitoes, and were +obliged to return. I observed, however, that the mountains terminated +here, and that a river flowed from the Westward: I also discovered a +strong rippling current, or rapid, which ran close under a steep +precipice of the hill.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 7.</i>—We embarked at four in the morning and +crossed to the opposite side of the river, in consequence of the rapid; +but we might have spared ourselves this trouble, as there would have +been no danger in continuing our course, without any circuitous +deviation whatever. This circumstance convinced us of the erroneous +account given by the natives of the great and approaching dangers of our +navigation, as this rapid was stated to be one of them. Our course was +now North-North-West three miles, West-North-West four miles, North-West +ten miles, North two miles, when we came to a river that flowed from the +Eastward. Here we landed at an encampment of four fires, all the +inhabitants of which ran off with the utmost speed except and old man +and an old <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p242"></A>242}</SPAN>woman. +Our guide called aloud to the fugitives, and entreated them to stay, but +without effect the old man, however, did not hesitate to approach us, +and represented himself as too far advanced in life, and too indifferent +about the short time he had to remain in the world, to be very anxious +about escaping from any danger that threatened him; at the same time he +pulled his grey hairs from his head by handfuls to distribute among us, +and implored our favour for himself and his relations. Our guide, +however, at length removed his fears, and persuaded him to recall the +fugitives, who consisted of eighteen people; whom I reconciled to me on +their return with presents of beads, knives, awls, &c., with which +they appeared to be greatly delighted. They differed in no respect from +those whom we had already seen; nor were they deficient in hospitable +attentions; they provided us with fish, which was very well boiled, and +cheerfully accepted by us. Our guide still sickened after his home, and +was so anxious to return thither, that we were under the necessity of +forcing him to embark.</p> + +<p>These people informed us that we were close to another great rapid, and +that there were several lodges of their relations in its vicinity.</p> + +<p>Four canoes, with a man in each, followed us, to point out the +particular channels we should follow for the secure passage of the +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p243"></A>243}</SPAN> +rapid. They also abounded in discouraging stories concerning the +dangers and difficulties which we were to encounter.</p> + +<p>From hence our course was North-North-East two miles, when the river +appeared to be enclosed, as it were, with lofty, perpendicular, white +rocks, which did not afford us a very agreeable prospect. We now went +on shore, in order to examine the rapid, but did not perceive any signs +of it, though the Indians still continued to magnify its dangers: +however, as they ventured down it, in their small canoes, our +apprehensions were consequently removed, and we followed them at some +distance, but did not find any increase in the rapidity of the current; +at length the Indians informed us that we should find no other rapid but +that which was now bearing us along. The river at this place is not +above three hundred yards in breadth, but on sounding I found fifty +fathoms water. At the two rivulets that offer their tributary streams +from either side, we found six families, consisting of about thirty-five +persons, who gave us an ample quantity of excellent fish, which were, +however, confined to white fish, the poisson inconnu, and another of a +round form and greenish colour, which was about fourteen inches in +length. We gratified them with a few presents, and continued our +voyage. The men, however, followed us in fifteen canoes.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p244"></A>244}</SPAN>This narrow +channel is three miles long, and its course +North-North-East. We then steered North three miles, and landed at an +encampment of three or more families, containing twenty-two persons, +which was situated on the bank of a river, of a considerable appearance, +which came from the Eastward. We obtained hares and partridges from +these people, and presented in return such articles as greatly delighted +them. They very much regretted that they had no goods or merchandise to +exchange with us, as they had left them at a lake, from whence the river +issued, and in whose vicinity some of their people were employed in +setting snares for rein-deer. They engaged to go for their articles of +trade, and would wait our return, which we assumed them would be within +two months. There was a youth among them in the capacity of a slave, +whom our Indians understood much better than any of the natives of this +country whom they had yet seen; he was invited to accompany us, but took +the first opportunity to conceal himself, and we saw him no more.</p> + +<p>We now steered West five miles, when we again landed, and found two +families, containing seven people, but had reason to believe that there +were others hidden in the woods. We received from them two dozen of +hares, and they were about to boil two <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p245"></A>245}</SPAN>more, which they also gave us. +We were not ungrateful for their kindness, and left them. Our course +was now North-West four miles, and at nine we landed and pitched our +tents, when one of our people killed a grey crane. Our conductor +renewed his complaints, not, as he assured us, from any apprehension of +our ill treatment, but of the Esquimaux, whom he represented as a very +wicked and malignant people; who would put us all to death. He added, +also, that it was but two summers since a large party of them came up +this river, and killed many of his relations. Two Indians followed us +from the last lodges.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 8.</i>—At half past two in the morning we +embarked, and steered a Westerly course, and soon after put ashore at +two lodges of nine Indians. We made them a few trifling presents, but +without disembarking, and had proceeded but a small distance from +thence, when we observed several smokes beneath a hill, on the North +shore, and on our approach we perceived the natives climbing the ascent +to gain the woods. The Indians, however, in the two small canoes which +were ahead of us, having assured them of our friendly intentions, they +returned to their fires, and we disembarked. Several of them were clad +in hare-skins, but in every other circumstance they resembled those whom +we had already seen. We +were, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p246"></A>246}</SPAN> however, +informed that they were of a different tribe, called the Hare Indians, +as hares and fish are their principal support, from the scarcity of +rein-deer and beaver, which are the only animals of the larger kind that +frequent this part of the country. They were twenty-five in number; and +among them was a woman who was afflicted with an abscess in the belly, +and reduced, in consequence, to a mere skeleton: at the same time +several old women were singing and howling around her; but whether these +noises were to operate as a charm for her cure, or merely to amuse and +console her, I do not pretend to determine. A small quantity of our +usual presents were received by them with the greatest satisfaction.</p> + +<p>Here we made an exchange of our guide, who had become so troublesome +that we were obliged to watch him night and day, except when he was upon +the water. The man, however, who had agreed to go in his place soon +repented of his engagement, and endeavoured to persuade us that some of +his relations further down the river, would readily accompany us, and +were much better acquainted with the river than himself. But, as he had +informed us ten minutes before that we should see no more of his tribe, +we paid very little attention to his remonstrances, and compelled him to +embark.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p247"></A>247}</SPAN>In about +three hours a man overtook us in a canoe, and we suspected that +his object was to facilitate, in some way or other, the escape of our +conductor. About twelve we also observed an Indian walking along the +North-East shore, when the small canoes paddled towards him. We +accordingly followed, and found three men, three women, and two +children, who had been on an hunting expedition. They had some flesh of +the rein-deer, which they offered to us, but it was so rotten, as well +as offensive to the smell, that we excused ourselves from accepting it. +They had also their wonderful stories of danger and terror, as well as +their countrymen, whom we had already seen; and we were now informed, +that behind the opposite island there was a Manitoe or spirit, in the +river, which swallowed every person that approached it. As it would +have employed half a day to have indulged our curiosity in proceeding to +examine this phenomenon, we did not deviate from our course, but left +these people with the usual presents, and proceeded on our voyage. Our +course and distance this day were West twenty-eight miles, +West-North-West twenty-three miles, West-South-West six miles, West by +North five miles, South-West four miles, and encamped at eight o'clock. +A fog prevailed the greater part of the day, with frequent showers of +small rain.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="chap3-r1" href="#chap3-l1">[1]</a> Watape +is the name given to the divided roots of the spruce fir, +which the natives weave into a degree of compactness that renders it +capable of containing a fluid. The different parts of the bark canoes +are also sewed together with this kind of filament.</p> + +<p></p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p248"></A>248}</SPAN><center><h4><a name= +"chapter4" href="#toc_chapter4"> CHAPTER IV.</a></h4></center> + +<p class=noindent>JULY, 1789.</p> + +<p>  <i>Thursday, 9.</i>—Thunder and rain prevailed during the +night, and, in the course of it, our guide deserted; we therefore compelled +another of these people, very much against his will, to supply the place of +his fugitive countryman. We also took away the paddles of one of them who +remained behind, that he might not follow us on any scheme of promoting +the escape of his companion, who was not easily pacified. At length, +however, we succeeded in the act of conciliation, and at half past three +quitted our station. In a short time we saw a smoke on the East shore, +and directed our course towards it. Our new guide began immediately to +call to the people that belonged to it in a particular manner, which we +did not comprehend. He informed us that they were not of his tribe, but +were a very wicked, malignant people, who would beat us cruelly, pull +our hair with great violence from our heads, and maltreat us in various +other ways.</p> + +<p>The men waited our arrival, but the women and children took to the +woods. There were but four of these people, and previous <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p249"></A>249}</SPAN>to our +landing, they all harangued us at the same moment, and apparently with +violent anger and resentment. Our hunters did not understand them, but +no sooner had our guide addressed them, than they were appeased. I +presented them with beads, awls, etc., and when the women and children +returned from the woods, they were gratified with similar articles. +There were fifteen of them; and of a more pleasing appearance than any +which we had hitherto seen, as they were healthy, full of flesh, and +clean in their persons. Their language was somewhat different, but I +believe chiefly in the accent, for they and our guide conversed +intelligibly with each other; and the English chief clearly comprehended +one of them, though he was not himself understood.</p> + +<p>Their arms and utensils differ but little from those which have been +described in a former chapter. The only iron they have is in small +pieces, which serve them for knives. They obtain this metal from the +Esquimaux Indians. Their arrows are made of very light wood, and are +winged only with two feathers; their bows differed from any which we had +seen, and we understood that they were furnished by the Esquimaux, who +are their neighbours: they consist of two pieces, with a very strong +cord of sinews along the back, which is tied in several places, to +preserve <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p250"></A>250}</SPAN> its +shape; when this cord becomes wet, it requires a strong bow-string, and +a powerful arm to draw it. The vessel in which they prepare their food, +is made of a thin frame of wood, and of an oblong shape; the bottom is +fixed in a groove, in the same manner as a cask. Their shirts are not +cut square at the bottom, but taper to a point, from the belt downwards +as low as the knee, both before and behind, with a border, embellished +with a short fringe. They use also another fringe, similar to that +which has been already described, with the addition of the stone of a +grey farinaceous berry, of the size and shape of a large barley-corn: it +is of a brown colour, and fluted, and being bored is run on each string +of the fringe; with this they decorate their shirts, by sewing it in a +semicircle on the breast and back, and crossing over both shoulders; the +sleeves are wide and short, but the mittens supply their deficiency, as +they are long enough to reach over a part of the sleeve, and are +commodiously suspended by a cord from the neck. If their leggins were +made with waistbands, they might with great propriety be denominated +trousers: they fasten them with a cord round the middle, so that they +appear to have a sense of decency which their neighbours can not boast. +Their shoes are sewed to their leggins, and decorated on every seam. +One <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p251"></A>251}</SPAN> of the men was +clad in a shirt made of the skins of the musk-rat. The dress of the +women is the same as that of the men, except in their shirts, which are +longer, and without the finishing of a fringe on their breast. Their +peculiar mode of tying the hair is as follows:—that which grows on +the temples, or the fore part of the skull, is formed into two queues, +hanging down before the ears; that of the scalp or crown is fashioned in +the same manner to the back of the neck, and is then tied with the rest +of the hair, at some distance from the head. A thin cord is employed +for these purposes, and very neatly worked with hair, artificially +coloured. The women, and, indeed, some of the men, let their hair hang +loose on their shoulders, whether it be long or short.</p> + +<p>We purchased a couple of very large moose skins from them, which were +very well dressed; indeed we did not suppose that there were any of +those animals in the country; and it appears from the accounts of the +natives themselves, that they are very scarce. As for the beaver, the +existence of such a creature does not seem to be known by them. Our +people bought shirts of them, and many curious articles, &c. They +presented us with a most delicious fish, which was less than a herring, +and very beautifully spotted with black and yellow: its dorsal fin +reached from <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p252"></A>252}</SPAN> +the head to the tail; in its expanded state takes a +triangular form, and is variegated with the colours that enliven the +scales: the head is very small, and the mouth is armed with +sharp-pointed teeth.</p> + +<p>We prevailed on the native, whose language was most intelligible, to +accompany us. He informed us that we should sleep ten nights more +before we arrived at the sea; that several of his relations resided in +the immediate vicinity of this part of the river, and that in three +nights we should meet with the Esquimaux, with whom they had formerly +made war, but were now in a state of peace and amity. He mentioned the +last Indians whom we had seen in terms of great derision; describing +them as being no better than old women, and as abominable liars; which +coincided with the notion we already entertained of them.</p> + +<p>As we pushed off, some of my men discharged their fowling pieces, that +were only loaded with powder, at the report of which the Indians were +very much alarmed, as they had not before heard the discharge of +firearms. This circumstance had such an effect upon our guide, that we +had reason to apprehend he would not fulfil his promise. When, however, +he was informed that the noise which he had heard was a signal of +friendship, he was persuaded to embark in <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p253"></A>253}</SPAN>his own small canoe, though he +had been offered a seat in ours.</p> + +<p>Two of his companions, whom he represented as his brothers, followed us +in their canoes; and they amused us not only with their native songs, +but with others, in imitation of the Esquimaux; and our new guide was so +enlivened by them, that the antics he performed, in keeping time to the +singing, alarmed us with continual apprehension that his boat must +upset: but he was not long content with his confined situation, and +paddling up alongside our canoe, requested us to receive him in it, +though but a short time before he had resolutely refused to accept our +invitation. No sooner had he entered our canoe, than he began to +perform an Esquimaux dance, to our no small alarm. He was, however, +soon prevailed upon to be more tranquil; when he began to display +various indecencies, according to the customs of the Esquimaux, of which +he boasted an intimate acquaintance. On our putting to shore, in order +to leave his canoe, he informed us, that on the opposite hill the +Esquimaux, three winters before, killed his grandfather. We saw a fox, +and a ground-hog on the hill, the latter of which the brother of our +guide shot with his bow and arrow.</p> + +<p>About four in the afternoon we perceived a smoke on the West shore, when +we traversed <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p254"></A>254}</SPAN> +and landed. The natives made a most terrible uproar, +talking with great vociferation, and running about as if they were +deprived of their senses, while the greater part of the women, with the +children, fled away. Perceiving the disorder which our appearance +occasioned among these people, we had waited some time before we quitted +the canoe; and I have no doubt, if we had been without people to +introduce us, that they would have attempted some violence against us; +for when the Indians send away their women and children, it is always +with a hostile design. At length we pacified them with the usual +presents, but they preferred beads to any of the articles that I offered +them; particularly such as were of a blue colour; and one of them even +requested to exchange a knife which I had given him for a small quantity +of those ornamental baubles. I purchased of them two shirts for my +hunters; and at the same time they presented me with some arrows, and +dried fish. This party consisted of five families, to the amount, as I +suppose, of forty men, women, and children; but I did not see them all, +as several were afraid to venture from their hiding-places. They are +called <i>Deguthee Dinees</i>, or the <i>Quarrellers</i>.</p> + +<p>Our guide, like his predecessors, now manifested his wish to leave us, +and entertained similar apprehensions that we should not <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p255"></A>255}</SPAN>return by this +passage. He had his alarms also respecting the Esquimaux, who might +kill us and take away the women. Our Indians, however, assured him that +we had no fears of any kind, and that he need not be alarmed for +himself. They also convinced him that we should return by the way we +were going, so that he consented to re-embark without giving us any +further trouble; and eight small canoes followed us. Our courses this +day were South-West by West six miles, South-West by South thirty miles, +South-West three miles, West by South twelve miles, West by North two +miles, and we encamped at eight in the evening on the Eastern bank of +the river.</p> + +<p>The Indians whom I found here, informed me, that from the place where +I this morning met the first of their tribe, the distance overland, on +the East side, to the sea, was not long, and that from hence, by +proceeding to the Westward, it was still shorter. They also represented +the land on both sides as projecting to a point. These people do not +appear to harbour any thievish dispositions; at least we did not +perceive that they took, or wanted to take, anything from us by stealth +or artifice. They enjoyed the amusements of dancing and jumping in +common with those we had already seen; and, indeed, these exercises seem +to be their favourite +diversions. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p256"></A>256}</SPAN> About +mid-day the weather was sultry, but in the afternoon it became cold. +There was a large quantity of wild flax, the growth of last year, laying +on the ground, and the new plants were sprouting up through it. This +circumstance I did not observe in any other part.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 10.</i>—At four in the morning we embarked, at a +small distance from the place of our encampment; the river, which here +becomes narrower, flows between high rocks; and a meandering course took +us North-West four miles. At this spot the banks became low; indeed, +from the first rapid, the country does not wear a mountainous +appearance; but the banks of the river are generally lofty, in some +places perfectly naked, and in others well covered with small trees, +such as the fir and the birch. We continued our last course for two +miles, with mountains before us; whose tops were covered with snow.</p> + +<p>The land is low on both sides of the river, except these mountains, +whose base is distant about ten miles: here the river widens, and runs +through various channels, formed by islands, some of which are without a +tree, and little more than banks of mud and sand; while others are +covered with a kind of spruce fir, and trees of a larger size than we +had seen for the last ten days. Their banks, which are about six feet +above the surface of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p257"></A>257}</SPAN> +the water, display a face of solid ice, intermixed +with veins of black earth, and as the heat of the sun melts the ice, the +trees frequently fall into the river.</p> + +<p>So various were the channels of the river at this time, that we were at +a loss which to take. Our guide preferred the Easternmost, on account +of the Esquimaux, but I determined to take the middle channel, as it +appeared to be a larger body of water, and running North and South: +besides, as there was a greater chance of seeing them I concluded, that +we could always go to the Eastward, whenever we might prefer it. Our +course was now West by North six miles, North-West by West, the snowy +mountains being West by South from us, and stretching to the Northward +as far as we could see. According to the information of the Indians, +they are part of the chain of mountains which we approached on the third +of this month. I obtained an observation this day that gave me +67. 47. North latitude, which was farther North than I expected, +according to the course I kept: but the difference was owing to the +variation of the compass, which was more Easterly than I imagined. From +hence it was evident that these waters emptied themselves into the +Hyperborean Sea; and though it was probable that, from the want of +provision, we could not return to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p258"></A>258}</SPAN>Athabasca in the course of the season, +I nevertheless, determined to penetrate to the discharge of them.</p> + +<p>My new conductor being very much discouraged and quite tired of his +situation, used his influence to prevent our proceeding. He had never +been, he said, at the <i>Benahullo Toe</i>, or White Man's Lake; and that +when he went to the Esquimaux Lake, which is at no great distance, he +passed over land from the place where we found him, and to that part +where the Esquimaux pass the summer. In short, my hunters also became +so disheartened from these accounts, and other circumstances, that I was +confident they would have left me, if it had been in their power. I, +however, satisfied them in some degree, by the assurance, that I would +proceed onwards but seven days more, and if I did not then get to the +sea, I would return. Indeed, the low state of our provisions, without +any other consideration, formed a very sufficient security for the +maintenance of my engagement. Our last course was thirty-two miles, +with a stronger current than could be expected in such a low country.</p> + +<p>We now proceeded North-North-West four miles, North-West three miles, +North-East two miles, North-West by West three miles, and North-East two +miles. At half past eight in the evening we landed and +pitched <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p259"></A>259}</SPAN>our +tents, near to where there had been three encampments of the Esquimaux, +since the breaking up of the ice. The natives, who followed us +yesterday, left us at our station this morning. In the course of the +day we saw large flocks of wild fowl.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 11.</i>—I sat up all night to observe the sun. +At half past twelve I called up one of the men to view a spectacle which +he had never before seen; when, on seeing the sun so high, he thought it +was a signal to embark, and began to call the rest of his companions, +who would scarcely be persuaded by me, that the sun had not descended +nearer to the horizon, and that it was now but a short time past +midnight.</p> + +<p>We reposed, however, till three quarters after three, when we entered +the canoe, and steered about North-West, the river taking a very +serpentine course. About seven we saw a ridge of high land; at twelve +we landed at a spot where we observed that some of the natives had +lately been. I counted thirty places where there had been fires; and +some of the men who went further, saw as many more. They must have been +here for a considerable time, though it does not appear that they had +erected any huts. A great number of poles, however, were seen fixed in +the river, to which they had attached their nets, and there seemed to be +an excellent fishery. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p260"></A>260}</SPAN> +One of the fish, of the many which we saw leap +out of the water, fell into our canoe; it was about ten inches long, and +of a round shape. About the places where they had made their fires, +were scattered pieces of whalebone, and thick burned leather, with parts +of the frames of three canoes; we could also observe where they had +spilled train oil; and there was the singular appearance of a spruce +fir, stripped of its branches to the top like an English May-pole. The +weather was cloudy, and the air cold and unpleasant. From this place +for about five miles, the river widens, it then flows in a variety of +narrow, meandering channels, amongst low islands, enlivened with no +trees, but a few dwarf willows.</p> + +<p>At four, we landed, where there were three houses, or rather huts, +belonging to the natives. The ground-plot is of an oval form, about +fifteen feet long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at either +end; the whole of it is dug about twelve inches below the surface of the +ground, and one half of it is covered over with willow branches; which +probably serves as a bed for the whole family.</p> + +<p>A space, in the middle of the other part, of about four feet wide, is +deepened twelve inches more, and is the only spot in the house where a +grown person can stand upright. One side of it is covered, as has been +already <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p261"></A>261}</SPAN> +described, and the other is the hearth or fireplace, of which, +however, they do not make much use. Though it was close to the wall, +the latter did not appear to be burned. The door or entrance is in the +middle of one end of the house, and is about two feet and an half high, +and two feet wide, and has a covered way or porch five feet in length; +so that it is absolutely necessary to creep on all fours in order to get +into, or out of, this curious habitation. There is a hole of about +eighteen inches square on the top of it, which serves the threefold +purpose of a window, an occasional door, and a chimney. The underground +part of the floor is lined with split wood. Six or eight stumps of +small trees driven into the earth, with the root upwards, on which are +laid some cross pieces of timber, support the roof of the building, +which is an oblong square of ten feet by six. The whole is made of +drift-wood covered with branches and dry grass; over which is laid a +foot deep of earth. On each side of these houses are a few square holes +in the ground of about two feet in depth, which are covered with split +wood and earth, except in the middle. These appeared to be contrived +for the preservation of the winter stock of provisions. In and about +the houses we found sledge runners and bones, pieces of whalebone, and +poplar bark cut in circles, which are used as corks to buoy <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p262"></A>262}</SPAN>the nets, +and are fixed to them by pieces of whalebone. Before each hut a great +number of stumps of trees were fixed in the ground, upon which it +appeared that they hung their fish to dry.</p> + +<p>We now continued our voyage, and encamped at eight o'clock. I +calculated our course at about North-West, and, allowing for the +windings, that we had made fifty-four miles. We expected, throughout +the day, to meet with some of the natives. On several of the islands we +perceived the print of their feet in the sand, as if they had been there +but a few days before, to procure wild fowl. There were frequent +showers of rain in the afternoon, and the weather was raw and +disagreeable. We saw a black fox; but trees were now become very rare +objects, except a few dwarf willows, of not more than three feet in +height.</p> + +<p>The discontents of our hunters were now renewed by the accounts which +our guide had been giving of that part of our voyage that was +approaching. According to his information, we were to see a larger lake +on the morrow. Neither he nor his relations, he said, knew any thing +about it, except that part which is opposite to, and not far from, their +country. The Esquimaux alone, he added, inhabit its shores, and kill a +large fish that is found in it, which is a principal part <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p263"></A>263}</SPAN>of their food; +this, we presumed, must; be the whale. He also mentioned white bears, +and another large animal which was seen in those parts, but our hunters +could not understand the description which he gave of it. He also +represented their canoes as being of a large construction, which would +commodiously contain four or five families. However, to reconcile the +English chief to the necessary continuance in my service, I presented +him with one of my capotes or travelling coats; at the same time, to +satisfy the guide, and keep him, if possible, in good humour, I gave him +a skin of the moose-deer, which, in his opinion, was a valuable present.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 12.</i>—It rained with violence throughout the +night, and till two in the morning; the weather continuing very cold. +We proceeded on the same meandering course as yesterday, the wind +North-North-West, and the country so naked that scarce a shrub was to be +seen. At ten in the morning, we landed where there were four huts, +exactly the same as those which have been so lately described. The +adjacent land is high and covered with short grass and flowers, though +the earth was not thawed above four inches from the surface; beneath +which was a solid body of ice. This beautiful appearance, however, was +strangely contrasted with the ice and snow that are seen in the +valleys. <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p264"></A>264}</SPAN>The +soil, where there is any, is a yellow clay mixed with stones. These +huts appear to have been inhabited during the last winter; and we had +reason to think that some of the natives had been lately there, as the +beach was covered with the track of their feet. Many of the runners and +bars of their sledges were laid together, near the houses, in a manner +that seemed to denote the return of the proprietors. There were also +pieces of netting made of sinews, and some bark of the willow. The +thread of the former was plaited, and no ordinary portion of time must +have been employed in manufacturing so great a length of cord. A square +stone kettle, with a flat bottom, also occupied our attention, which was +capable of containing two gallons; and we were puzzled as to the means +these people must have employed to have chiselled it out of a solid rock +into its present form. To these articles may be added, small pieces of +flint fixed into handles of wood, which probably serve as knives; +several wooden dishes; the stern and part of a large canoe; pieces of +very thick leather, which we conjectured to be the covering of a canoe; +several bones of large fish, and two heads; but we could not determine +the animal to which they belonged, though we conjectured that it must be +the sea-horse.</p> + +<p>When we had satisfied our curiosity we +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p265"></A>265}</SPAN> re-embarked, +but we were at a loss what course to steer, as our guide seemed to be as +ignorant of this country as ourselves. Though the current was very +strong, we appeared to have come to the entrance of the lake. The +stream set to the West, and we went with it to an high point, at the +distance of about eight miles, which we conjectured to be an island; +but, on approaching it, we perceived it to be connected with the shore +by a low neck of land. I now took an observation which gave +69. 1. North latitude. From the point that has been just mentioned, we +continued the same course for the Westernmost point of an high island, +and the Westernmost land in sight, at the distance of fifteen miles.</p> + +<p>The lake was quite open to us to the Westward, and out of the channel of +the river there was not more than four feet water, and in some places +the depth did not exceed one foot, From the shallowness of the water it +was impossible to coast to the Westward. At five o'clock we arrived at +the island, and during the last fifteen miles, five feet was the deepest +water. The lake now appeared to be covered with ice, for about two +leagues distance, and no land ahead, so that we were prevented from +proceeding in this direction by the ice, and the shallowness of the +water along the shore.</p> + +<p>We landed at the boundary of our voyage <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p266"></A>266}</SPAN>in this direction, and as soon +as the tents were pitched I ordered the nets to be set, when I proceeded +with the English chief to the highest part of the island, from which we +discovered the solid ice, extending from the South-West by compass to +the Eastward. As far as the eye could reach to the South-West-ward, we +could dimly perceive a chain of mountains, stretching further to the +North than the edge of the ice, at the distance of upwards of twenty +leagues. To the Eastward we saw many islands, and in our progress we +met with a considerable number of white partridges, now become brown. +There were also flocks of very beautiful plovers, and I found the nest +of one of them with four eggs. White owls, likewise, were among the +inhabitants of the place: but the dead, as well as the living, demanded +our attention, for we came to the grave of one of the natives, by which +lay a bow, a paddle, and a spear., The Indians informed me that they +landed on a small island, about four leagues from hence, where they had +seen the tracks of two men, that were quite fresh; they had also found a +secret store of train oil, and several bones of white bears were +scattered about the place where it was hid. The wind was now so high +that it was impracticable for us to visit the nets.</p> + +<p>My people could not, at this time, refrain <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p267"></A>267}</SPAN>from expressions of real +concern, that they were obliged to return without reaching the sea: +indeed, the hope of attaining this object encouraged them to bear, +without repining, the hardships of our unremitting voyage. For some +time past their spirits were animated by the expectation that another +day would bring them to the <i>Mer d'ouest:</i> and even in our present +situation they declared their readiness to follow me wherever I should +be pleased to lead them. We saw several large white gulls, and other +birds, whose back, and upper feathers of the wing are brown; and whose +belly, and under feathers of the wing are white.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p268"></A>268}</SPAN> +<center> +<h4><a name="chapter5" href="#toc_chapter5"> CHAPTER V.</a></h4> +</center> + +<p class=noindent>JULY, 1789.</p> +<p><i>Monday, 13.</i>—We had no sooner retired to rest last night, +if I may use that expression, in a country where the sun never sinks +beneath the horizon, than some of the people were obliged to rise and +remove the baggage, on account of the rising of the water. At eight in +the morning the weather was fine and calm, which afforded an opportunity +to examine the nets, one of which had been driven from its position by +the wind and current. We caught seven poissons inconnus, which were +unpalatable; a white fish, that proved delicious; and another about the +size of an herring, which none of us had ever seen before, except the +English chief, who recognized it as being of a kind that abounds in +Hudson's Bay. About noon the wind blew hard from the Westward, when I +took an observation, which gave 69. 14. North latitude, and the meridian +variation of the compass was thirty-six degrees +Eastward.<a name="chap5-l1" href="#chap5-r1">[1]</a></p> + +<p>This afternoon I re-ascended the hill, but could not discover that +the ice had been put +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p269"></A>269}</SPAN> in motion by +the force of the wind. At the same time I could just distinguish two +small islands in the ice, to the North-West by compass. I now thought +it necessary to give a new net to my men to mount, in order to obtain as +much provision as possible from the water, our stores being reduced to +about five hundred weight, which, without any other supply, would not +have sufficed for fifteen people above twelve days. One of the young +Indians, however, was so fortunate as to find the net that had been +missing, and which contained three of the poissons inconnus.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 14.</i>—It blew very hard from the North-West +since the preceding evening. Having sat up till three in the morning, I +slept longer than usual; but about eight one of my men saw a great many +animals in the water, which he at first supposed to be pieces of ice. +About nine, however, I was awakened to resolve the doubts which had +taken place respecting this extraordinary appearance. I immediately +perceived that they were whales; and having ordered the canoe to be +prepared, we embarked in pursuit of them. It was, indeed, a very wild +and unreflecting enterprise, and it was a very fortunate circumstance +that we failed in our attempt to overtake them, as a stroke from the +tail of one of these enormous fish would have dashed the canoe to +pieces. We may, perhaps, have been <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p270"></A>270}</SPAN>indebted to the foggy weather for our safety, as +it prevented us from continuing our pursuit. Our guide informed us that +they are the same kind of fish which are the principal food of the +Esquimaux, and they were frequently seen as large as our canoe. The +part of them which appeared above the water was altogether white, and +they were much larger than the largest porpoise.</p> + +<p>About twelve the fog dispersed, and being curious to take a view of +the ice, I gave orders for the canoe to be got in readiness. We +accordingly embarked, and the Indians followed us. We had not, however, +been an hour on the water, when the wind rose on a sudden from the +North-East, and obliged us to tack about, and the return of the fog +prevented us from ascertaining our distance from the ice; indeed, from +this circumstance, the island which we had so lately left was but dimly +seen. Though the wind was close, we ventured to hoist the sail, and +from the violence of the swell it was by great exertions that two men +could bale out the water from our canoe. We were in a state of actual +danger, and felt every corresponding emotion of pleasure when we reached +the land. The Indians had fortunately got more to windward, so that the +swell in some measure drove them on shore, though their canoes were +nearly filled with water: and had they +been <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p271"></A>271}</SPAN> laden, we +should have seen them no more. As I did not propose to satisfy my +curiosity at the risk of similar dangers, we continued our course along, +the islands, which screened us from the wind. I was now determined to +take a more particular examination of the islands, in the hope of +meeting with parties of the natives, from whom I might be able to obtain +some interesting intelligence, though our conductor discouraged my +expectations, by representing them as very shy and inaccessible people. +At the same time he informed me, that we should probably find some of +them, if we navigated the channel which he had originally recommended us +to enter.</p> + +<p>At eight we encamped on the Eastern end of the island, which I had named +the Whale Island. It is about seven leagues in length, East and West by +compass; but not more than half a mile in breadth. We saw several red +foxes, one of which was killed. There were also five or six very old +huts on the point where we had taken our station. The nets were now +set, and one of them in five fathom water, the current setting +North-East by compass. This morning I ordered a post to be erected +close to our tents, on which engraved the latitude of the place, my own +name, the number of persons which I had with me, and the time we +remained there.</p> + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p272"></A>272}</SPAN><i>Wednesday, +15.</i>—Being awakened by some casual circumstance, at four this +morning, I was surprised on perceiving that the water had flowed under +our baggage. As the wind had not changed, and did not blow with greater +violence than when we went to rest, we were all of opinion that this +circumstance proceeded from the tide. We had, indeed, observed at the +other end of the island, that the water rose and fell; but we then +imagined that it must have been occasioned by the wind. The water +continued to rise till about six, but I could not ascertain the time +with the requisite precision, as the wind then began to blow with great +violence; I therefore determined, at all events, to remain here till the +next morning, though, as it happened, the state of the wind was such, as +to render my stay here an act of necessity. Our nets were not very +successful, as they presented us with only eight fish. From an +observation which I obtained at noon we were in 69. 7. North latitude. +As the evening approached, the wind increased, and the weather became +cold. Two swans were the only provision which the hunters procured for +us.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 16.</i>—The rain did not cease till seven this +morning, the weather being at intervals very cold and unpleasant. Such +was its inconstancy, that I could not make +an <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p273"></A>273}</SPAN> accurate +observation; but the tide appeared to rise sixteen or eighteen +inches.</p> + +<p>We now embarked, and steered under sail among the islands, where I hoped +to meet with some of the natives, but my expectation was not gratified. +Our guide imagined that they were gone to their distant haunts, where +they fish for whales and hunt the rein-deer, that are opposite to his +country. His relations, he said, see them every year, but he did not +encourage us to expect that we should find any of them, unless it were +at a small river that falls into the great one, from the Eastward, at a +considerable distance from our immediate situation. We accordingly made +for the river, and stemmed the current. At two in the afternoon the +water was quite shallow in every part of our course, and we could always +find the bottom with the paddle. At seven we landed, encamped, and set +the nets. Here the Indians killed two geese, two cranes, and a white +owl. Since we entered the river, we experienced a very agreeable change +in the temperature of the air; but this pleasant circumstance was not +without its inconvenience, as it subjected us to the persecution of the +mosquitoes.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 17.</i>—On taking up the nets, they were found +to contain but six fish. We embarked at four in the morning, and passed +four encampments; which appeared to +have <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p274"></A>274}</SPAN> been very +lately inhabited. We then landed upon a small round island, close to +the Eastern shore; which possessed somewhat of a sacred character, as +the top of it seemed to be a place of sepulture, from the numerous +graves which we observed there. We found the frame of a small canoe, +with various dishes, troughs, and other utensils, which had been the +living property of those who could now use them no more, and form the +ordinary accompaniments of their last abodes. As no part of the skins +that must have covered the canoe was remaining, we concluded that it had +been eaten by wild animals that inhabit, or occasionally frequent, the +island. The frame of the canoe, which was entire, was put together with +whale-bone; it was sewed in some parts, and tied in others. The sledges +were from four to eight feet long; the length of the bars was upwards of +two feet; the runners were two inches thick and nine inches deep; the +prow was two feet and an half high, and formed of two pieces, sewed with +whalebone, to three other thin spars of wood, which were of the same +height; and fixed in the runners by means of mortises, were sewed two +thin broad bars lengthways, at a small distance from each other; these +frames were fixed together with three or four cross bars, tied fast upon +the runners, and on the lower edge of the latter, small pieces +of <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p275"></A>275}</SPAN>horn were +fastened by wooden pegs, that they might slide with greater facility. +They are drawn by shafts, which I imagine are applied to any particular +sledge as they are wanted as I saw no more than one pair of them.</p> + +<p>About half past one we came opposite to the first spruce-tree that we +had seen for some time: there are but very few of them on the main land, +and they are very small: those are larger which are found on the +islands, where they grow in patches, and close together. It is, indeed, +very extraordinary that there should be any wood whatever in a country +where the ground never thaws above five inches from the surface. We +landed at seven in the evening. The weather was now very pleasant, and +in the course of the day we saw great numbers of wild fowl, with their +young ones, but they were so shy that we could not approach them. The +Indians were not very successful in their foraging party, as they killed +only two grey cranes, and a grey goose. Two of them were employed on +the high land to the Eastward, through the greater part of the day, in +search of rein-deer, but they could discover nothing more than a few +tracks of that animal. I also ascended the high land, from whence I had +a delightful view of the river, divided into innumerable streams, +meandering through islands, some of which were covered with <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p276"></A>276}</SPAN>wood and others with grass. +The mountains, that formed the opposite horizon, were at the distance of +forty miles. The inland view was neither so extensive nor agreeable, +being terminated by a near range of bleak, barren hills, between which +are small lakes or ponds, while the surrounding country is covered with +tufts of moss, without the shade of a single tree. Along the hills is a +kind of fence, made with branches, where the natives had set snares to +catch white partridges.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 18.</i>—The nets did not produce a single +fish, and at three o'clock in the morning we took our departure. The +weather was fine and clear, and we passed several encampments. As the +prints of human feet were very fresh in the sand, it could not have been +long since the natives had visited the spot. We now proceeded in the +hope of meeting with some of them at the river, whither our guide was +conducting us with that expectation. We observed a great number of +trees, in different places, whose branches had been lopped off to the +tops. They denote the immediate abode of the natives, and probably +serve for signals to direct each other to their respective winter +quarters. Our hunters, in the course of the day, killed two rein-deer, +which were the only large animals that we had seen since we had been in +this river, and proved a very +seasonable <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p277"></A>277}</SPAN> supply, +as our pemmican had become mouldy for some time past; though in that +situation we were under the necessity of eating it.</p> + +<p>In the valleys and low lands near the river, cranberries are found in +great abundance, particularly in favourable aspects. It is a singular +circumstance, that the fruit of two succeeding years may be gathered at +the same time, from the same shrub. Here was also another berry, of a +very pale yellow colour, that resembles a raspberry, and is of a very +agreeable flavour. There is a great variety of other plants and herbs, +whose names and properties are unknown to me.</p> + +<p>The weather became cold towards the afternoon, with the appearance of +rain, and we landed for the night at seven in the evening. The Indians +killed eight geese. During the greater part of the day I walked with +the English chief, and found it very disagreeable and fatiguing. Though +the country is so elevated, it was one continual morass, except on the +summits of some barren hills. As I carried my hanger in my hand, I +frequently examined if any part of the ground was in a state of thaw, +but could never force the blade into it, beyond the depth of six or +eight inches. The face of the high land, towards the river, is in some +places rocky, and in others a mixture of sand and stone veined <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p278"></A>278}</SPAN>with a +kind of red earth, with which the natives bedaub themselves.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 19.</i>—It rained, and blew hard from the North, +till eight in the morning, when we discovered that our conductor had +escaped. I was, indeed, surprised at his honesty, as he left the +moose-skin which I had given him for a covering, and went off in his +shirt, though the weather was very cold. I inquired of the Indians if +they had given him any cause of offence, or had observed any recent +disposition in him to desert us, but they assured me that they had not +in any instance displeased him: at the same time they recollected that +he had expressed his apprehensions of being taken away as a slave; and +his alarms were probably increased on the preceding day, when he saw +them kill the two rein-deer with so much readiness. In the afternoon +the weather became fine and clear, when we saw large flights of geese +with their young ones, and the hunters killed twenty-two of them. As +they had at this time cast their feathers, they could not fly. They +were of a small kind, and much inferior in size to those that frequent +the vicinity of Athabasca. At eight, we took our station near an Indian +encampment, and, as we had observed in similar situations, pieces of +bone, rein-deer's horn, &c., were scattered about it. It also +appeared, that the natives had been +employed <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p279"></A>279}</SPAN> here in +working wood into arms, utensils, &c.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 20.</i>—We embarked at three this morning, when +the weather was cloudy, with small rain and aft wind. About twelve the +rain became so violent as to compel us to encamp at two in the +afternoon. We saw great numbers of fowl, and killed among us fifteen +geese and four swans. Had the weather been more favourable, we should +have added considerably to our booty. We now passed the river, where we +expected to meet some of the natives, but discovered no signs of them. +The ground close to the river does not rise to any considerable height, +and the hills, which are at a small distance, are covered with the +spruce fir and small birch trees, to their very summits.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 21.</i>—We embarked at half past one this +morning, when the weather was cold and unpleasant, and the wind +South-West. At ten, we left the channels formed by the islands for the +uninterrupted channel of the river, where we found the current so +strong, that it was absolutely necessary to tow the canoe with a line. +The land on both sides was elevated, and almost perpendicular, and the +shore beneath it, which is of no great breadth, was covered with a grey +stone that falls from the precipice. We made much greater expedition +with the line than we +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p280"></A>280}</SPAN> could have done +with the paddles. The men in the canoe relieved two of those on shore +every two hours, so that it was very hard and fatiguing duty, but it +saved a great deal of that time which was so precious to us. At half +past eight we landed at the same spot where we had already encamped on +the ninth instant.</p> + +<p>In about an hour after our arrival, we were joined by eleven of the +natives, who were stationed farther up the river, and there were some +among them whom we had not seen during our former visit to this place. +The brother of our late guide, however, was of the party, and was eager +in his inquiries after him; but our account did not prove satisfactory. +They all gave evident tokens of their suspicion, and each of them made a +distinct harangue on the occasion. Our Indians, indeed, did not +understand their eloquence, though they conjectured it to be very +unfavourable to our assertions. The brother, nevertheless, proposed to +barter his credulity for a small quantity of beads, and promised to +believe every thing I should say, if I would gratify him with a few of +those baubles; but he did not succeed in his proposition, and I +contented myself with giving him the bow and arrows which our conductor +had left with us.</p> + +<p>My people were now necessarily engaged <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p281"></A>281}</SPAN>in putting the fire-arms in +order, after the violent rain of the preceding day; an employment which +very much attracted the curiosity, and appeared in some degree, to +awaken the apprehensions of the natives. To their inquiries concerning +the motives of our preparation, we answered by showing a piece of meat +and a goose, and informing them, that we were preparing our arms to +procure similar provisions: at the same time we assured them, though it +was our intention to kill any animals we might find, there was no +intention to hurt or injure them. They, however, entreated us not to +discharge our pieces in their presence. I requested the English chief +to ask them some questions, which they either did not or would not +understand; so that I failed in obtaining any information from them.</p> + +<p>All my people went to rest; but I thought it prudent to sit up, in order +to watch the motions of the natives. This circumstance was a subject of +their inquiry; and their curiosity was still more excited, when they saw +me employed in writing. About twelve o'clock I perceived four of their +women coming along the shore; and they were no sooner seen by their +friends, than they ran hastily to meet them, and persuaded two of them, +who, I suppose, were young, to return, while they brought the other two, +who were very <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p282"></A>282}</SPAN> +old, to enjoy the warmth of our fire; but, after staying +there for about half an hour, they also retreated. Those who remained, +immediately kindled a small fire, and laid themselves down to sleep +round it, like so many whelps, having neither skins or garments of any +kind to cover them, notwithstanding the cold that prevailed. My people +having placed their kettle of meat on the fire, I was obliged to guard +it from the natives, who made several attempts to possess themselves of +its contents; and this was the only instance I had hitherto discovered, +of their being influenced by a pilfering disposition. It might, +perhaps, be a general opinion, that provisions were a common property. +I now saw the sun set for the first time since I had been here before. +During the preceding night, the weather was so cloudy, that I could not +observe its descent to the horizon. The water had sunk, at this place, +upward of three feet since we had passed down the river.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 22.</i>—We began our march at half past three +this morning, the men being employed to tow the canoe. I walked with +the Indians to their huts, which were at a greater distance than I had +any reason to expect, for it occupied three hours in hard walking to +reach them. We passed a narrow, and deep river in our way, at the mouth +of which the natives had set their nets. They had +hid <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p283"></A>283}</SPAN>their effects, +and sent their young women into the woods, as we saw but very few of the +former, and none of the latter. They had large huts built with +drift-wood on the declivity of the beach and in the inside the earth was +dug away, so as to form a level floor. At each end was a stout fork, +whereon was laid a strong ridge-pole, which formed a support to the +whole structure, and at covering of spruce bark preserved it from the +rain. Various spars of different heights were fixed within the hut, and +covered with split fish that hung on them to dry; and fires were made in +different parts to accelerate the operation. There were rails also on +the outside of the building, which were hung around with fish, but in a +fresher state than those within. The spawn is also carefully preserved +and dried in the same manner. We obtained as many fish from them as the +canoe could conveniently contain, and some strings of beads were the +price paid for them, an article which they preferred to every other. +Iron they held in little or no estimation.</p> + +<p>During the two hours that I remained here, I employed the English chief +in a continual state of inquiry concerning these people. The +information that resulted from this conference was as follows:</p> + +<p>This nation or tribe is very numerous, with whom the Esquimaux had been +continually <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p284"></A>284}</SPAN>at variance, +a people who take every advantage of attacking +those who are not in a state to defend themselves; and though they had +promised friendship, had lately, and in the most treacherous manner, +butchered some of their people. As a proof of this circumstance, the +relations of the deceased showed us, that they had cut off their hair on +the occasion. They also declared their determination to withdraw all +confidence in future from the Esquimaux, and to collect themselves in a +formidable body, that they might be enabled to revenge the death of +their friends.</p> + +<p>From their account, a strong party of Esquimaux occasionally ascends +this river, in large canoes, in search of flint stones, which they +employ to point their spears and arrows. They were now at their lake +due East from the spot where we then were, which was at no great +distance over land, where they kill the rein-deer, and that they would +soon begin to catch big fish for the winter stock. We could not, +however, obtain any information respecting the lake in the direction in +which we were. To the Eastward and Westward where they saw it, the ice +breaks up, but soon freezes again.</p> + +<p>The Esquimaux informed them that they saw large canoes full of white +men to the Westward, eight or ten winters ago, from whom they obtained +iron in exchange for +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p285"></A>285}</SPAN> leather. The +lake where they met these canoes, is called by them <i>Belhoullay +Toe</i>, or White Man's Lake. They also represented the Esquimaux as +dressing like themselves. They wear their hair short, and have two +holes perforated, one on each side of the mouth, in a line with the +under lip, in which they place long beads that they find in the lake. +Their bows are somewhat different from those used by the natives we had +seen, and they employ slings from whence they throw stones with such +dexterity that they prove very formidable weapons in the day of +battle.</p> + +<p>We also learned in addition from the natives, that we should not see any +more of their relations, as they had all left the river to go in pursuit +of rein-deer for their provisions, and that they themselves should +engage in a similar expedition in a few days. Rein-deer, bears, +wolverines, martens, foxes, hares, and white buffaloes are the only +quadrupeds in their country; and that the latter were only to be found +in the mountains to the Westward.</p> + +<p>We proceeded with the line throughout the day, except two hours, when we +employed the sail. We encamped at eight in the evening. From the place +we quitted this morning, the banks of the river are well covered with +small wood, spruce, firs, birch, and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p286"></A>286}</SPAN>willow. We found it very warm +during the whole of our progress.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 23.</i>—At five in the morning we proceeded on +our voyage, but found it very difficult to travel along the beach. We +observed several places where the natives had stationed themselves and +set their nets since our passage downwards. We passed a small river, +and at five o'clock our Indians put to shore in order to encamp, but we +proceeded onwards, which displeased them very much, from the fatigue +they suffered, and at eight we encamped at our position of the 8th +instant. The day was very fine, and we employed the towing line +throughout the course of it. At ten, our hunters returned, sullen and +dissatisfied. We had not touched any of our provision stores for six +days, in which time we had consumed two rein-deer, four swans, +forty-five geese, and a considerable quantity of fish: but it is to be +considered, that we were ten men, and four women. I have always +observed, that the north men possessed very hearty appetites, but they +were very much exceeded by those with me since we entered this river. I +should really have thought it absolute gluttony in my people, if my own +appetite had not increased in a similar proportion.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="chap5-r1" href="#chap5-l1">[1]</a> The longitude +has since been discovered, by the dead reckoning, to be 135. West.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p287"></A>287}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter6" href="#toc_chapter6"> CHAPTER VI.</a> +</h4></center> + +<p class=noindent>JULY, 1789.</p> +<p><i>Friday, 24.</i>—At five we continued our course, but, in a +very short time, were under the necessity of applying to the aid of the +line, the stream being so strong as to render all our attempts +unavailing to stem it with the paddles. We passed a small river, on +each side of which the natives and Esquimaux collect flint. The bank is +an high, steep, and soft rock, variegated with red, green, and yellow +hues. From the continual dripping of water, parts of it frequently fall +and break into small stony flakes like slate, but not so hard. Among +them are found pieces of <i>Petrolium</i>, which bears a resemblance to +yellow wax, but is more friable. The English chief informed me that +rocks of a similar kind are scattered about the country at the back of +the Slave Lake, where the Chepewyans collect copper.</p> + +<p>At ten, we had an aft wind, and the men who had been engaged in +towing, re-embarked. At twelve, we observed a lodge on the side of the +river, and its inhabitants running about in great confusion, or hurrying +to the woods. Three men waited our +arrival, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p288"></A>288}</SPAN> though +they remained at some distance from us, with their bows and arrows ready +to be employed; or at least, that appeared to be the idea they wished to +convey to us, by continually snapping the strings of the former, and the +signs they made to forbid our approach. The English chief, whose +language they, in some degree understood, endeavoured to remove their +distrust of us; but till I went to them with a present of beads, they +refused to have any communication with us.</p> + +<p>When they first perceived our sail, they took us for the Esquimaux +Indians, who employ a sail in their canoes. They were suspicious of our +designs, and questioned us with a view to obtain some knowledge of them. +On seeing us in possession of some of the clothes, bows, etc., which +must have belonged to some of the Deguthee Denees, or Quarrellers, they +imagined that we had killed some of them, and were bearing away the +fruits of our victory. They appeared, indeed, to be of the same tribe, +though they were afraid of acknowledging it. From their questions, it +was evident that they had not received any notice of our being in those +parts.</p> + +<p>They would not acknowledge that they had any women with them, though we +had seen them running to the woods; but pretended that they had been +left at a considerable <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p289"></A>289}</SPAN> +distance from the river, with some relations, who +were engaged in killing rein-deer. These people had been here but a +short time, and their lodge was not yet completed; nor had they any fish +in a state of preparation for their provision. I gave them a knife and +some beads for an horn-wedge or chisel, with which they split their +canoe-wood. One of my Indians having broken his paddle, attempted to +take one of theirs, which was immediately contested by its owner, and on +my interfering to prevent this act of injustice, he manifested his +gratitude to me on the occasion. We lost an hour and a half in this +conference.</p> + +<p>The English chief was during the whole of the time in the woods, where +some of the hidden property was discovered, but the women contrived to +elude the search that was made after them. Some of these articles were +purloined, but I was ignorant of this circumstance till we had taken our +departure, or I should have given an ample remuneration. Our chief +expressed his displeasure at their running away to conceal themselves, +their property, and their young women, in very bitter terms. He said +his heart was against those slaves; and complained aloud of his +disappointment in coming so far without seeing the natives, and getting +something from them.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p290"></A>290}</SPAN>We employed +the sail and the paddle since ten this morning, and pitched +our tents at seven in the evening. We had no sooner encamped than we +were visited by an Indian whom we had seen before, and whose family was +at a small distance up the river: at nine he left us. The weather was +clear and serene.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 25.</i>—We embarked this morning at a quarter +past three, and at seven we passed the lodge of the Indian who had +visited us the preceding evening. There appeared to have been more than +one family, and we naturally concluded that our visitor had made such an +unfavourable report of us, as to induce his companions to fly on our +approach. Their fire was not extinguished, and they had left a +considerable quantity of fish scattered about their dwelling.</p> + +<p>The weather was now very sultry; but the current had relaxed of its +force, so that the paddle was sufficient for our progress during the +greatest part of the day. The inland part of the country is mountainous +and the banks of the river low, but covered with wood, among which is +the poplar, but of small growth, and the first which we had seen on our +return. A pigeon also flew by us, and hares appeared to be in great +plenty. We passed many Indian encampments which we did not see in our +passage down the river. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p291"></A>291}</SPAN> +About seven the sky, to the Westward, became of +a steel blue colour, with lightning and thunder. We accordingly landed +to prepare ourselves against the coming storm; but before we could erect +our tents, it came on with such violence that we expected it to carry +every thing before it. The ridgepole of my tent was broken in the +middle, where it was sound, and nine inches and an half in +circumference; and we were obliged to throw ourselves flat on the ground +to escape being wounded by the stones that were hurled about in the air +like sand. The violence of the storm, however, subsided in a short +time, but left the sky overcast with the appearance of rain.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 26.</i>—It rained from the preceding evening to +this morning, when we embarked at four o'clock. At eight we landed at +three large Indian lodges. Their inhabitants, who were asleep, +expressed uncommon alarm and agitation when they were awakened by us, +though most of them had seen us before. Their habitations were crowded +with fish, hanging to dry in every part; but as we wanted some for +present use, we sent their young men to visit the nets, and they +returned with abundance of large white fish, to which the name has been +given of <i>poisson inconnu</i>; some of a round shape, and green +colour; and a few white ones; all which +were <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p292"></A>292}</SPAN> very +agreeable food. Some beads, and a few other trifles, were gratefully +received in return. These people are very fond of iron work of any +kind, and my men purchased several of their articles for small pieces of +tin.</p> + +<p>There were five or six persons whom we had not seen before; and among +them was a Dog-rib Indian, whom some private quarrel had driven from his +country. The English chief understood him as well as one of his own +nation, and gave the following account of their conversation:—</p> + +<p>He had been informed by the people with whom he now lives, the Hare +Indians, that there is another river on the other side of the mountains +to the South-West, which falls into the <i>Belhoullay Teo</i>, or +White-man's Lake, in comparison of which that on whose banks we then +were, was but a small stream; that the natives were very large, and very +wicked, and kill common men with their eyes; that they make canoes +larger than ours; that those who inhabit the entrance of it kill a kind +of beaver, the skin of which is almost red; and that large canoes often +frequent it. As there is no known communication by water with this +river, the natives who saw it went over the mountains.</p> + +<p>As he mentioned that there were some beavers in this part of the +country, I told him <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p293"></A>293}</SPAN> +to hunt it, and desire the others to do the same, as +well as the martens, foxes, beaver-eater or wolverine, &c., which they +might carry to barter for iron with his own nation, who are supplied +with goods by us, near their country. He was anxious to know whether +`we should return that way; at the same time he informed us, that we +should see but few of the natives along the river, as all the young men +were engaged in killing rein-deer, near the Esquimaux Lake, which, he +also said, was at no great distance. The latter he represented as very +treacherous, and added, that they had killed one of his people. He told +us likewise, that some plan of revenge was meditating, unless the +offending party paid a sufficient price for the body of the murdered +person.</p> + +<p>My Indians were very anxious to possess themselves of a woman that was +with the natives, but as they were not willing to part with her, I +interfered, to prevent her being taken by force; indeed, I was obliged +to exercise the utmost vigilance, as the Indians who accompanied me were +ever ready to take what they could from the natives, without making them +any return. About twelve, we passed a river of some appearance, flowing +from the Eastward. One of the natives who followed us, called it the +Winter Road River. We did not find the stream strong to-day, <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p294"></A>294}</SPAN>along the +shore, as there were many eddy currents; we therefore employed the sail +during some hours of it, and went on shore for the night at half past +seven.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 27.</i>—The weather was now fine, and we renewed our +voyage at half past two. At seven we landed where there were three families, +situated close to the rapids. We found but few people; for as the +Indian who followed us yesterday had arrived here before us, we supposed +that the greater part had fled, on the intelligence which he gave of our +approach. Some of these people we had seen before, when they told us +that they had left their property at a lake in the neighbourhood, and +had promised to fetch it before our return; but we now found them as +unprovided as when we left them. They had plenty of fish, some of which +was packed up in birch bark.</p> + +<p>During the time we remained with them, which was not more than two +hours, I endeavoured to obtain some additional intelligence respecting +the river which had been mentioned on the preceding day; when they +declared their total ignorance of it, but from the reports of others, as +they had never been beyond the mountains, on the opposite side of their +own river; they had, however, been informed that it was larger than that +which washed the banks whereon they lived, and +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p295"></A>295}</SPAN> that its +course was towards the mid-day sun. They added, that there were people +at a small distance up the river, who inhabited the opposite mountains, +and had lately descended from them to obtain supplies of fish. These +people, they suggested, must be well acquainted with the other river, +which was the object of my inquiry. I engaged one of them, by a bribe +of some beads, to describe the circumjacent country upon the sand. This +singular map he immediately undertook to delineate, and accordingly +traced out a very long point of land between the rivers, though without +paying the least attention to their courses, which he represented as +running into the great lake, at the extremity of which, as he had been +told by Indians of other nations, there was a Belhoullay Couin, or White +Man's Fort. This I took to be Unalascha Fort, and consequently the +river to the West to be Cook's River; and that the body of water or sea +into which this river discharges itself at Whale Island, communicates +with Norton Sound. I made an advantageous proposition to this man to +accompany me across the mountains to the other river, but he refused it. +At the same time he recommended me to the people already mentioned, who +were fishing in the neighbourhood, as better qualified to assist me in +the undertaking which I had proposed.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p296"></A>296}</SPAN>One of this small +company of natives was grievously afflicted with +ulcers in his back, and the only attention which was paid to his +miserable condition, as far at least as we could discover, proceeded +from a woman, who carefully employed a bunch of feathers in preventing +the flies from settling upon his sores.</p> + +<p>At ten this morning we landed near the lodges which had already been +mentioned to us, and I ordered my people to make preparation for passing +the remaining part of the day here, in order to obtain that familiarity +with the natives which might induce them to afford me, without reserve, +the information that I should require from them. This object, however, +was in danger of being altogether frustrated, by a misunderstanding that +had taken place between the natives and my young Indians, who had +already arrived there. Before the latter could disembark, the former +seized the canoe, and dragged it on shore, and in this act of violence +the boat was broken, from the weight of the persons in it. This insult +was on the point of being seriously revenged, when I arrived, to prevent +the consequences of such a disposition. The variation of the compass +was about twenty-nine degrees to the East.</p> + +<p>At four in the afternoon I ordered my interpreter to harangue the +natives, assembled <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p297"></A>297}</SPAN> +in council; but his long discourse obtained little +satisfactory intelligence from them. Their account of the river to the +Westward, was similar to that which he had already received: and their +description of the inhabitants of that country was still more absurd and +ridiculous. They represented them as being of a gigantic stature, and +adorned with wings; which, however, they never employed in flying. That +they fed on large birds, which they killed with the greatest ease, +though common men would be certain victims of their ferocity if they +ventured to approach them. They also described the people that +inhabited the mouth of the river as possessing the extraordinary power +of killing with their eyes, and devouring a large beaver at a single +meal. They added that canoes of very large dimensions visited that +place. They did not, however, relate these strange circumstances from +their own knowledge, but on the reports of other tribes, as they +themselves never ventured to proceed beyond the first mountains, where +they went in search of the small white buffaloes, as the inhabitants of +the other side endeavour to kill them whenever they meet. They likewise +mentioned that the sources of those streams which are tributary to both +the great rivers are separated by the mountains. It appeared to us, +however, that these people knew more about the country than they chose +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p298"></A>298}</SPAN> +to communicate, or at least reached me, as the interpreter, who had long +been tired of the voyage, might conceal such a part of their +communications as, in his opinion, would induce me to follow new routes, +or extend my excursions.</p> + +<p>No sooner was the conference concluded, than they began to dance, which +is their favourite, and, except jumping, their only amusement. In this +pastime old and young, male and female, continued their exertions, till +their strength was exhausted. This exercise was accompanied by loud +imitations of the various noises produced by the rein-deer, the bear, +and the wolf. When they had finished their antics, I desired the +English chief to renew the former subjects; which he did without +success. I therefore assumed an angry air, expressed my suspicions that +they withheld their information, and concluded with a menace, that if +they did not give me all the satisfaction in their power, I would force +one of them along with me to-morrow, to point out the other river. On +this declaration, they all, at one and the same moment, became sick, and +answered in a very faint tone, that they knew no more than they had +already communicated, and that they should die if I took any of them +away. They began to persuade my interpreter to remain with them, as +they loved <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p299"></A>299}</SPAN> +him as well as they did themselves, and that he would be +killed if he continued with me. Nor did this proposition, aided as it +was by the solicitation of his women, fail of producing a considerable +effect upon him, though he endeavoured to conceal it from me.</p> + +<p>I now found that it would be fruitless for me to expect any accounts of +the country, or the other great river, till I got to the river of the +Bear Lake, where I expected to find some of the natives, who promised to +wait for us there. These people had actually mentioned this river to me +when we passed them, but I then paid no attention to that circumstance, +as I imagined it to be either a misunderstanding of my interpreter, or +that it was an invention which, with their other lies, might tend to +prevent me from proceeding down their river.</p> + +<p>We were plentifully supplied with fish, as well dry as fresh, by these +people; they also gathered as many hurtle-berries as we chose, for which +we paid with the usual articles of beads, awls, knives, and tin. I +purchased a few beaver-skins of them, which, according to their +accounts, are not very numerous in this country; and that they do not +abound in moose-deer and buffaloes. They were alarmed for some of their +young men, who were killing geese higher up the river, and entreated us +to do them no harm. About sunset I <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p300"></A>300}</SPAN>was under the necessity of shooting +one of their dogs, as we could not keep those animals from our baggage. +It was in vain that I had remonstrated on this subject, so that I was +obliged to commit the act which has been just mentioned. When these +people heard the report of the pistol, and saw the dog dead, they were +seized with a very general alarm, and the women took their children on +their backs and ran into the woods. I ordered the cause of this act of +severity to be explained, with the assurance that no injury would be +offered to themselves. The woman, however, to whom the dog belonged, +was very much affected, and declared that the loss of five children, +during the preceding winter, had not affected her so much as the death +of this animal. But her grief was not of very long duration; and a few +beads, &c., soon assuaged her sorrow. But as they can without +difficulty get rid of their affliction, they can with equal ease assume +it, and feign sickness if it be necessary with the same versatility. +When we arrived this morning, we found the women in tears, from an +apprehension that we were come to take them away. To the eye of an +European they certainly were objects of disgust; but there were those +among my party who observed some hidden charms in these females which +rendered them objects of desire, and means were found, I believe, <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p301"></A>301}</SPAN>that very soon dissipated their +alarms and subdued their coyness.</p> + +<p>On the upper part of the beach, liquorice grew in great abundance and it +was now in blossom. I pulled up some of the roots, which were large and +long; but the natives were ignorant of its qualities, and considered it +as a weed of no use or value.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 28.</i>—At four this morning I ordered my +people to prepare for our departure; and while they were loading the +canoe, I went with the English chief to visit the lodges, but the +greater part of their inhabitants had quitted them during the night, and +those that remained pretended sickness and refused to rise. When, +however, they were convinced that we did not mean to take any of them +with us, their sickness abandoned them, and when we had embarked, they +came forth from their huts, to desire that we would visit their nets, +which were at a small distance up the river, and take all the fish we +might find in them. We accordingly availed ourselves of this +permission, and took as many as were necessary for our own supply.</p> + +<p>We landed shortly after where there were two more lodges, which were +full of fish, but without any inhabitants, who were probably with the +natives whom we had just left. My Indians, in rummaging these places, +found several articles which they proposed to take; <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p302"></A>302}</SPAN>I therefore gave +beads and awls to be left as the purchase of them; but this act of +justice they were not able to comprehend, as the people themselves were +not present. I took up a net and left a large knife in the place of it. +It was about four fathoms long, and thirty-two meshes in depth; these +nets are much more convenient to set in the eddy current than our long +ones. This is the place that the Indians call a rapid, though we went +up it all the way with the paddle; so that the current could not be so +strong here, as in many other parts of the river; indeed, if it were so, +the difficulty of towing would be almost insuperable, as in many parts, +the rocks, which are of a great height, and rather project over the +water, leave no shore between them and the stream. These precipices +abound in swallows' nests. The weather was now very sultry, and at +eleven we were under the necessity of landing to gum our canoe.</p> + +<p>In about an hour we set forward, and at one in the afternoon, went on +shore at a fire, which we supposed to have been kindled by the young +men, who, as we had been already informed, were hunting geese. Our +hunters found their canoe and the fowl they had got, secreted in the +woods; and soon after, the people themselves, whom they brought to the +water side. Out of two hundred geese, we picked thirty-six which were +eatable; the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p303"></A>303}</SPAN> +rest were putrid, and emitted a horrid stench. They had +been killed some time without having been gutted, and in this state of +loathsome rottenness, we have every reason to suppose they are eaten by +the natives. We paid for those which we had taken, and departed. At +seven in the evening, the weather became cloudy and overcast; at eight +we encamped; at nine it began to thunder with great violence; a heavy +rain succeeded, accompanied with a hurricane, that blew down our tents, +and threatened to carry away the canoe, which had been fastened to some +trees with a cod-line. The storm lasted two hours, and deluged us with +wet.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 29.</i>—Yesterday the weather was cloudy, and +the heat insupportable; and now we could not put on clothes enough to +keep us warm. We embarked at a quarter past four with an aft wind, +which drove us on at a great rate, though the current is very strong. +At ten we came to the other rapid, which we got up with the line on the +West side, where we found it much stronger than when we went down; the +water had also fallen at least five feet since that time, so that +several shoals appeared in the river which we had not seen before, One +of my hunters narrowly escaped being drowned in crossing a river that +falls in from the Westward, and is the most considerable, except the +mountain <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p304"></A>304}</SPAN>river, +that flows in this direction. We had strong Northerly and cold wind +throughout the whole of the day, and took our station for the night at a +quarter past eight. We killed a goose and caught some young ones.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 30.</i>—We renewed our voyage at four this morning, +after a very rainy night. The weather was cloudy, but the cold had moderated, +and the wind was North-West. We were enabled to employ the sail during +part of the day, and encamped at about seven in the evening. We killed +eleven old geese and forty young ones which had just begun to fly. The +English chief was very much irritated against one of his young men: that +jealousy occasioned this uneasiness, and that it was not without very +sufficient cause, was all I could discover. For the last two or three +days we had eaten the liquorice root, of which there is a great +abundance on the banks of the river. We found it a powerful astringent.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 31.</i>—The rain was continual throughout the +night, and did not subside till nine this morning, when we renewed our +progress. The wind and weather the same as yesterday. About three in +the afternoon it cleared up and the wind died away, when it became warm. +At five the wind veered to the East, and brought cold along with it. +There were plenty of whortle +berries, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p305"></A>305}</SPAN> +raspberries, and a berry called <i>poire</i>, which grows in the +greatest abundance. We were very much impeded in our way by shoals of +sand and small stones which render the water shallow at a distance from +the shore. In other places the bank of the river is lofty: it is formed +of black earth and sand, and, as it is continually falling, displayed to +us, in some parts, a face of solid ice, to within a foot of the surface. +We finished this day's voyage at a quarter before eight, and in the +course of it killed seven geese.</p> + +<p>We now had recourse to our corn, for we had only consumed three days of +our original provision since we began to mount the current. It was my +intention to have ascended the river on the South side from the last +rapid, to discover if there were any rivers of consequence that flow +from the Westward; but the sand-banks were so numerous and the current +so strong, that I was compelled to traverse to the opposite side, where +the eddy currents are very frequent, which gave us an opportunity of +setting our nets and making much more headway.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p306"></A>306}</SPAN> +<center><h4><a name="chapter7" href="#toc_chapter7"> CHAPTER VII.</a></h4> +</center> + +<p class=noindent>AUGUST, 1789. +</p> +<p><i>Saturday, 1.</i>—We embarked at three this morning, the +weather being clear and cold, with the wind at South-East. At three in +the afternoon we traversed and landed to take the canoe in tow: here was +an encampment of the natives, which we had reason to suppose they had +quitted the preceding day. At five we perceived a family, consisting of +a man, two women, and as many children, stationed by the side of the +water, whom we had not seen before. They informed us, that they had but +few fish, and that none of their friends were in the neighbourhood, +except the inhabitants of one lodge on the other side of the river, and +a man who belonged to them, and who was now occupied in hunting. I now +found my interpreter very unwilling to ask such questions as were +dictated to him, from the apprehension, as I imagined, that I might +obtain such intelligence as would prevent him from seeing Athabasca this +season. We left him with the Indian, and pitched our tents at the same +place where we had passed the night on the fifth of last month. The +English chief came along with the Indian <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p307"></A>307}</SPAN>to our fire; and the latter +informed us that the native who went down part of the river with us had +passed there, and that we should meet with three lodges of his tribe +above the river of the Bear Lake. Of the river to the Westward he knew +nothing, but from the relation of others. This was the first night +since our departure from Athabasca, when it was sufficiently dark to +render the stars visible.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 2.</i>—We set off at three this morning with the +towing-line. I walked with my Indians, as they went faster than the +canoe, and particularly as I suspected that they wanted to arrive at the +huts of the natives before me. In our way, I observed several small +springs of mineral water running from the foot of the mountain, and +along the beach I saw several lumps of iron ore. When we came to the +river of the Bear Lake, I ordered one of the young Indians to wait for +my canoe, and I took my place in their small canoe. This river is about +two hundred and fifty yards broad at this place, the water clear and of +a greenish colour. When I landed on the opposite shore, I discovered +that the natives had been there very lately from the print of their feet +in the sand. We continued walking till five in the afternoon, when we +saw several smokes along the shore. As we naturally concluded, that +these were <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p308"></A>308}</SPAN>certain +indications where we should meet the natives who were the objects of our +search we quickened our pace; but, in our progress, experienced a very +sulphurous smell, and at length discovered that the whole bank was on +fire for a very considerable distance. It proved to be a coal mine, to +which the fire had communicated from an old Indian encampment. The +beach was covered with coals, and the English chief gathered some of the +softest he could find, as a black dye; it being the mineral, as he +informed me, with which the natives render their quills black.</p> + +<p>Here we waited for the large canoe, which arrived an hour after us. At +half past ten we saw several Indian marks, which consisted of pieces of +bark fixed on poles, and pointing to the woods, opposite to which is an +old beaten road, that bore the marks of being lately frequented; the +beach also was covered with tracks. At a small distance were the poles +of five lodges standing; where we landed and unloaded our canoe. I then +despatched one of my men and two young Indians to see if they could find +any natives within a day's march of us. I wanted the English chief to +go, but he pleaded fatigue, and that it would be of no use. This was +the first time he had refused to comply with my desire, and jealousy, I +believe, was the cause of it in the present instance; though I had taken +every <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p309"></A>309}</SPAN>precaution +that he should not have cause to be jealous of the +Canadians. There was not, at this time, the least appearance of snow on +the opposite mountains, though they were almost covered with it, when we +passed before. Set two nets, and at eleven o'clock at night the men and +Indians returned. They had been to their first encampment, where there +were four fires, and which had been quitted a short time before; so that +they were obliged to make the circuit of several small lakes, which the +natives cross with their canoes. This encampment was on the borders of +a lake which was too large for them to venture round it, so that they +did not proceed any further. They saw several beavers and beaver lodges +in those small lakes. They killed one of these animals whose fur began +to get long, a sure indication that the fall of the year approaches. +They also saw many old tracks of the moose and reindeer. This is the +time when the rein-deer leave the plains to come to the woods, as the +mosquitoes begin to disappear; I, therefore, apprehended that we should +not find a single Indian on the river side, as they would be in or about +the mountains setting snares to take them.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 3.</i>—We proceeded with a strong Westerly wind, at +four this morning, the weather being cloudy and cold. At twelve it +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p310"></A>310}</SPAN> cleared up and +became fine; the current also increased. The water had fallen so much +since our passage down the river, that here, as in other places, we +discovered many shoals which were not then visible. We killed several +geese of a larger size than those which we had generally seen. Several +Indian encampments were seen along the river, and we landed at eight for +the night.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 4.</i>—At four in the morning we renewed our +course, when it was fine and calm. The night had been cold and a very +heavy dew had fallen. At nine we were obliged to land in order to gum +the canoe, when the weather became extremely warm. Numerous tracks of +rein-deer appeared on the side of the river. At half past five we took +our station for the night, and set the nets. The current was very +strong all day, and we found it very difficult to walk along the beach, +from the large stones which were scattered over it.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 5.</i>—We raised our nets, but had not the +good fortune to take a single fish. The water was now become so low +that the eddy currents would not admit of setting them. The current had +not relaxed its strength; and the difficulty of walking along the beach +was continued. The air was now become so cold; that our exercise, +violent as it was, scarce kept us warm. We passed several points which +we should not have <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p311"></A>311}</SPAN> +accomplished, if the canoe had been loaded. We were very much fatigued, +and at six were glad to conclude our toilsome march. The Indians killed +two geese. The women, who did not quit the canoe, were continually +employed in making shoes of moose-skin, for the men, as a pair did not +last more than a day.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 6.</i>—The rain prevented us from proceeding +till half past six, when we had a strong aft wind, which, aided by the +paddles, drove us on at a great rate. We encamped at six to wait for +our Indians, whom we had not seen since the morning; and at half past +seven they arrived very much dissatisfied with their day's journey. Two +days had now elapsed since we had seen the least appearance of Indian +habitations.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 7.</i>—We embarked at half past three, and soon +after perceived two rein-deer on the beach before us. We accordingly +checked our course; but our Indians, in contending who should be the +first to get near these animals, alarmed and lost them. We, however, +killed a female rein-deer, and from the wounds in her hind legs, it was +supposed that she had been pursued by wolves, who had devoured her young +one: her udder was full of milk, and one of the young Indians poured it +among some boiled corn, which he ate with great delight, esteeming it a +very +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p312"></A>312}</SPAN> delicious food. +At five in the afternoon we saw an animal running along the beach, but +could not determine whether it was a grey fox or a dog. In a short +time, we went ashore for the night, at the entrance of a small river, as +I thought there might be some natives in the vicinity of the place. I +ordered my hunters to put their fusees in order, and gave them +ammunition to proceed on a hunting party the next day; they were also +instructed to discover if there were any natives in the neighbouring +mountains. I found a small canoe at the edge of the woods, which +contained a paddle and a bow: it had been repaired this spring, and the +workmanship of the bark excelled any that I had yet seen. We saw +several encampments in the course of the day. The current of the river +was very strong, and along the points equal to rapids.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 8.</i>—The rain was very violent throughout +the night, and continued till the afternoon of this day, when the +weather began to clear, with a strong, cold, and Westerly wind. At +three the Indians proceeded on the hunting expedition, and at eight they +returned without having met with the least success; though they saw +numerous tracks of the rein-deer. They came to an old beaten road, +which one of them followed for some time; but it did not appear to have +been <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p313"></A>313}</SPAN>lately +frequented. The rain now returned, and continued till the morning.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 9.</i>—We renewed our voyage at half past three, +the weather being cold and cloudy; but at ten it became clear and +moderate. We saw another canoe at the outside of the wood, and one of +the Indians killed a dog, which was in a meagre, emaciated condition. +We perceived various places where the natives had made their fires; for +these people reside but a short time near the river, and remove from one +bank to the other, as it suits their purposes. We saw a path which was +connected with another on the opposite side of the river. The water had +risen considerably since last night, and there had been a strong current +throughout the day. At seven we made to the shore and encamped.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 10.</i>—At three this morning we returned to our +canoe; the weather fine and clear, with a light wind from the +South-East. The Indians were before us in pursuit of game. At ten we +landed opposite to the mountains which we had passed on the second of +the last month, in order to ascertain the variation of the compass at +this place: but this was accomplished in a very imperfect manner, as I +could not depend on my watch. One of the hunters joined us here, +fatigued and unsuccessful. As these mountains are the last of any +considerable magnitude on the +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p314"></A>314}</SPAN> South-West side of +the river, I ordered my men to cross to that side of it, that I might +ascend one of them. It was near four in the afternoon when I landed, +and I lost no time in proceeding to the attainment of my object. I was +accompanied only by a young Indian, as the curiosity of my people was +subdued by the fatigue they had undergone; and we soon had reason to +believe that we should pay dearly for the indulgence of our own. The +wood, which was chiefly of spruce firs, was so thick that it was with +great difficulty we made our way through it. When we had walked upwards +of an hour, the under-wood decreased, while the white birch and poplar +were the largest and tallest of their kind that I had ever seen. The +ground now began to rise, and was covered with small pines, and at +length we got the first view of the mountains since we had left the +canoe; as they appeared to be no nearer to us, though we had been +walking for three hours, than when we had seen them from the river, my +companion expressed a very great anxiety to return; his shoes and +leggins were torn to pieces, and he was alarmed at the idea of passing +through such bad roads during the night. I persisted, however, in +proceeding, with a determination to pass the night on the mountains and +return on the morrow. As we approached them, the ground was quite +marshy, and we waded +in<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p315"></A>315}</SPAN> water and grass +up to the knees, till we came within a mile of them, when I suddenly +sunk up to my arm-pits, and it was with some difficulty that I +extricated myself from this disagreeable situation. I now found it +impossible to proceed; to cross this marshy ground in a straight line +was impracticable, and it extended so far to the right and left, that I +could not attempt to make the circuit; I therefore determined to return +to the canoe, and arrived there about midnight, very much fatigued with +this fruitless journey.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 11.</i>—We observed several tracks along the +beach, and an encampment at the edge of the woods, which appeared to be +five or six days old. We should have continued our route along this +side of the river, but we had not seen our hunters since yesterday +morning. We accordingly embarked before three, and at five traversed +the river, when we saw two of them coming down in search of us. They +had killed no other animals than one beaver, and a few hares. According +to their account, the woods were so thick that it was impossible to +follow the game through them. They had seen several of the natives' +encampments, at no great distance from the river and it was their +opinion that they had discovered us in our passage down it, and had +taken care to avoid us; which accounted for the small number we had seen +on our return.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p316"></A>316}</SPAN>I requested the +English chief to return with me to the other side of the +river, in order that he might proceed to discover the natives, whose +tracks and habitations we had seen there; but he was backward in +complying with my desire, and proposed to send the young men; but I +could not trust to them, and at the same time was become rather doubtful +of him. They were still afraid lest I should obtain such accounts of +the other river as would induce me to travel overland to it, and that +they should be called upon to accompany me. I was, indeed, informed by +one of my own people, that the English chief, his wives and companions, +had determined to leave me on this side of the Slave Lake, in order to +go to the country of the Beaver Indians, and that about the middle of +the winter he would return to that lake, where he had appointed to meet +some of his relations, who, during the last spring, had been engaged in +war.</p> + +<p>We now traversed the river, and continued to track the Indians till past +twelve, when we lost all traces of them; in consequence, as we imagined, +of their having crossed to the Eastern side. We saw several dogs on +both shores; and one of the young Indians killed a wolf, which the men +ate with great satisfaction: we shot, also, fifteen young geese that +were now beginning to fly. It was eight when we took our evening +station, having <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p317"></A>317}</SPAN> +lost four hours in making our traverses. There was no +interruption of the fine weather during the course of this day.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 12.</i>—We proceeded on our voyage at three +this morning, and despatched the two young Indians across the river, +that we might not miss any of the natives that should be on the banks of +it. We saw many places where fires had been lately made along the +beach, as well as fire running in the woods. At four we arrived at an +encampment which had been left this morning. Their tracks were +observable in several places in the woods, and as it might be presumed +that they could not be at any great distance, it was proposed to the +chief to accompany me in search of them. We accordingly, though with +some hesitation on his part, penetrated several miles into the woods, +but without discovering the objects of our research. The fire had +spread all over the country, and had burned about three inches of the +black, light soil, which covered a body of cold clay, that was so hard +as not to receive the least impression of our feet. At ten we returned +from our unsuccessful excursion. In the mean time the hunters had +killed seven geese. There were several showers of rain, accompanied +with gusts of wind and thunder. The nets had been set during our +absence.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 13.</i>—The nets were taken up, <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p318"></A>318}</SPAN>but not one fish was found in +them; and at half past three we continued our route, with very +favourable weather. We passed several places, where fires had been made +by the natives, and many tracks were perceptible along the beach. At +seven we were opposite the island where our pemmican had been concealed: +two of the Indians were accordingly despatched in search of it, and it +proved very acceptable, as it rendered us more independent of the +provisions which were to be obtained by our fowling pieces, and +qualified us to get out of the river without that delay which our +hunters would otherwise have required. In a short time we perceived a +smoke on the shore to the South-West, at the distance of three leagues, +which did not appear to proceed from any running fire. The Indians, who +were a little way ahead of us, did not discover it, being engaged in +the pursuit of a flock of geese, at which they fired several shots, when +the smoke immediately disappeared; and in a short time we saw several of +the natives run along the shore, some of whom entered their canoes. +Though we were almost opposite to them, we could not cross the river +without going further up it, from the strength of the current; I +therefore ordered our Indians to make every possible exertion, in order +to speak with them, and wait our arrival. But as soon as our small +canoe <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p319"></A>319}</SPAN>struck off, +we could perceive the poor affrighted people hasten to +the shore, and after drawing their canoes on the beach, hurry into the +woods. It was past ten before we landed at the place where they had +deserted their canoes, which were four in number. They were so +terrified that they had left several articles on the beach. I was very +much displeased with my Indians, who instead of seeking the natives, +were dividing their property. I rebuked the English chief with some +severity for his conduct, and immediately ordered him, his young men, +and my own people, to go in search of the fugitives, but their fears had +made them too nimble for us, and we could not overtake them. We saw +several dogs in the woods, and some of them followed us to our canoe.</p> + +<p>The English chief was very much displeased at my reproaches, and +expressed himself to me in person to that effect. This was the very +opportunity which I wanted, to make him acquainted with my +dissatisfaction for some time past. I stated to him that I had come a +great way, and at a very considerable expense, without having completed +the object of my wishes, and that I suspected he had concealed from me a +principal part of what the natives had told him respecting the country, +lest he should be obliged to follow me: that his reason for not killing +game, &c., was <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p320"></A>320}</SPAN> +his jealousy, which likewise prevented him from looking +after the natives as he ought; and that we had never given him any cause +for any suspicions of us. These suggestions irritated him in a very +high degree, and he accused me of speaking ill words to him; he denied +the charge of jealousy, and declared that he did not conceal any thing +from us; and that as to the ill success of their hunting, it arose from +the nature of the country, and the scarcity, which had hitherto +appeared, of animals in it. He concluded by informing me that he would +not accompany me any further: that though he was without ammunition, he +could live in the same manner as the slaves (the name given to the +inhabitants of that part of the country), and that he would remain among +them. His harangue was succeeded by a loud and bitter lamentation; and +his relations assisted the vociferations of his grief; though they said +that their tears flowed for their dead friends. I did not interrupt +their grief for two hours, but as I could not well do without them, I +was at length obliged to soothe it, and induce the chief to change his +resolution, which he did, but with great apparent reluctance when we +embarked as we had hitherto done.</p> + +<p>The articles which the fugitives had left behind them, on the present +occasion, were bows, arrows, snares for moose and rein-deer, <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p321"></A>321}</SPAN>and for +hares; to these may be added a few dishes, made of bark, some skins of +the marten and the beaver, and old beaver robes, with a small robe made +of the skin of the lynx. Their canoes were coarsely made of the bark of +the spruce-fir, and will carry two or three people. I ordered my men to +remove them to the shade, and gave most of the other articles to the +young Indians. The English chief would not accept of any of them. In +the place, and as the purchase of them, I left some cloth, some small +knives, a file, two fire-steels, a comb, rings, with beads and awls. I +also ordered a marten skin to be placed on a proper mould, and a beaver +skin to be stretched on a frame, to which I tied a scraper. The Indians +were of opinion that all these articles would be lost, as the natives +were so much frightened that they would never return. Here we lost six +hours; and on our quitting the place, three of the dogs which I have +already mentioned followed us along the beach.</p> + +<p>We pitched our tents at half past eight, at the entrance of the river of +the mountain; and while the people were unloading the canoe, I took a +walk along the beach, and on the shoals, which being uncovered since we +passed down, by the sinking of the waters, were now white with a saline +substance. I sent for the English chief to sup with me, <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p322"></A>322}</SPAN>and a dram or +two dispelled all his heart-burning and discontent. He informed me that +it was a custom with the Chepewyan chiefs to go to war after they had +shed tears, in order to wipe away the disgrace attached to such a +feminine weakness, and that in the ensuing spring he should not fail to +execute his design; at the same time he declared his intention to +continue with us as long as I should want him. I took care that he +should carry some liquid consolation to his lodge, to prevent the return +of his chagrin. The weather was fine, and the Indians killed three +geese.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 14.</i>—At a quarter before four this morning, we returned to +our canoe, and went about two miles up the river of the mountains. Fire +was in the ground on each side of it. In traversing, I took soundings, +and found five, four and an half, and three and an half fathoms water. +Its stream was very muddy, and formed a cloudy streak along the water of +the great river, on the West side to the Eastern rapid, where the waters +of the two rivers at length blend in one. It was impossible not to +consider it as an extraordinary circumstance, that the current of the +former river should not incorporate with that of the latter, but flow, +as it were, in distinct streams at so great a distance, and till the +contracted state of the channel unites them. We passed <SPAN CLASS= +"pagenum">{<A NAME="p323"></A>323}</SPAN>several +encampments of the natives, and a river which flowed in from the North, +that had the appearance of being navigable. We concluded our voyage of +this day at half past five in the afternoon. There were plenty of +berries, which my people called <i>poires:</i> they are of a purple hue, +somewhat bigger than a pea, and of a luscious taste; there were also +gooseberries, and a few strawberries.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 15.</i>—We continued our course from three in the morning +till half past five in the afternoon. We saw several encampments along +the beach, till it became too narrow to admit them; when the banks rose +into a considerable degree of elevation, and there were more eddy +currents. The Indians killed twelve geese, and berries were collected +in great abundance. The weather was sultry throughout the day.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 16.</i>—We continued our voyage at a quarter +before four, and in five hours passed the place where we had been +stationed on the 13th of June. Here the river widened, and its shores +became flat. The land on the North side is low, composed of a black +soil, mixed with stones, but agreeably covered with the aspen, the +poplar, the white birch, the spruce-fir, &c. The current was so +moderate, that we proceeded upon it almost as fast as in dead water. At +twelve we passed an encampment of three fires, which was +the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p324"></A>324}</SPAN> only one we +saw in the course of the day. The weather was the same as yesterday.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 17.</i>—We proceeded at half past three; and saw three +successive encampments. From the peculiar structure of the huts, we +imagined that some of the Red-Knife Indians had been in this part of the +country, though it is not usual for them to come this way. I had last +night ordered the young Indians to precede us, for the purpose of +hunting, and at ten we overtook them. They had killed five young swans; +and the English chief presented us with an eagle, three cranes, a small +beaver, and two geese. We encamped at seven this evening on the same +spot which had been our resting-place on the 29th of June.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 18.</i>—At four this morning I equipped all the +Indians for an hunting excursion, and sent them onward, as our stock of +provision was nearly exhausted. We followed at half past six, and +crossed over to the North shore, where the land is low and scarcely +visible in the horizon. It was near twelve when we arrived. I now got +an observation, when it was 61. 33. North latitude. We were near five +miles to the North of the main channel of the river. The fresh tracks +and beds of buffaloes were very perceptible.</p> + +<p>Near this place a river flowed in from the Horn Mountains, which are at +no great <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p325"></A>325}</SPAN>distance. +We landed at five in the afternoon, and before the +canoe was unloaded, the English chief arrived with the tongue of a cow, +or female buffalo, when four men and the Indians were despatched for the +flesh; but they did not return till it was dark. They informed me, that +they had seen several human tracks in the sand on the opposite island. +The fine weather continued without interruption.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 19.</i>—The Indians were again sent forward +in pursuit of game; and some time being employed in gumming the canoe, +we did not embark till half past five, and at nine we landed to wait the +return of the hunters. I here found the variation of the compass to be +about twenty degrees East.</p> + +<p>The people made themselves paddles and repaired the canoe. It is an +extraordinary circumstance for which I do not pretend to account, that +there is some peculiar quality in the water of this river, which +corrodes wood, from the destructive effect it had on the paddles. The +hunters arrived at a late hour, without having seen any large animals. +Their booty consisted only of three swans and as many geese. The women +were employed in gathering cranberries and crowberries, which were found +in great abundance.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 20.</i>—We embarked at four o'clock, and took +the North side of +the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p326"></A>326}</SPAN> channel, +though the current was on that side much stronger, in order to take a +view of the river, which had been mentioned to me in our passage +downwards, as flowing from the country of the Beaver Indians, and which +fell in hereabouts. We could not, however, discover it, and it is +probable that the account was referable to the river which we had passed +on Tuesday. The current was very strong, and we crossed over to an +island opposite to us; here it was still more impetuous, and assumed the +hurry of a rapid. We found an awl and a paddle on the side of the +water; the former we knew to belong to the Knisteneaux: I supposed it to +be the chief Merde-d'ours and his party, who went to war last spring, +and had taken this route on their return to Athabasca. Nor is it +improbable that they may have been the cause that we saw so few of the +natives on the banks of this river. The weather was raw and cloudy, and +formed a very unpleasant contrast to the warm, sunny days, which +immediately preceded it. We took up our abode for the night at half +past seven, on the Northern shore, where the adjacent country is both +low and flat. The Indians killed live young swans, and a beaver. There +was an appearance of rain.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 21.</i>—The weather was cold, with a strong +Easterly wind and frequent +showers, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p327"></A>327}</SPAN> so that +we were detained in our station. In the afternoon the Indians got on +the track of a moose-deer, but were not so fortunate as to overtake +it.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 22.</i>—The wind veered round to the Westward, +and continued to blow strong and cold. We, however, renewed our voyage, +and in three hours reached the entrance of the Slave Lake, under half +sail; with the paddle, it would have taken us at least eight hours. The +Indians did not arrive till four hours after us; but the wind was so +violent, that it was not expedient to venture into the lake; we +therefore set a net, and encamped for the night. The women gathered +large quantities of the fruit already mentioned, called Pathagomenan, +and cranberries, crowberries, mooseberries, &c. The Indians killed +two swans and three geese.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 23.</i>—The net produced but five small pike, +and at five we embarked, and entered the lake by the same channel +through which we had passed from it. The South-West side would have +been the shortest, but we were not certain of there being plenty of fish +along the coast, and we were sure of finding abundance of them in the +course we preferred. Besides, I expected to find my people at the place +where I left them, as they had received orders to remain there till the +fall.</p> + +<p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p328"></A>328}</SPAN>We paddled a long +way into a deep bay to get the wind, and having left +our mast behind us, we landed to cut another. We then hoisted sail, and +were driven on at a great rate. At twelve the wind and swell were +augmented to such a degree, that our under yard broke, but luckily the +mast thwart resisted, till we had time to fasten down the yard with a +pole, without lowering sail. We took in a large quantity of water, and +had our mast given way, in all probability, we should have filled and +sunk. Our course continued to be very dangerous, along a flat +lee-shore, without being able to land till three in the afternoon. Two +men were continually employed in bailing out the water which we took in +on all sides. We fortunately doubled a point that screened us from the +wind and swell, and encamped for the night, in order to wait for our +Indians. We then set our nets, made a yard and mast, and gummed the +canoe. On visiting the nets, we found six white fish, and two pike. +The women gathered cranberries and crowberries in great plenty; and as +the night came on, the weather became more moderate.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 24.</i>—Our nets this morning produced fourteen +white fish, ten pikes, and a couple of trouts. At five we embarked with +a light breeze from the South, when we hoisted sail, and proceeded +slowly, as our +Indians <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p329"></A>329}</SPAN> had not +come up with us. At eleven we went on shore to prepare the kettle, and +dry the nets; at one we were again on the water. At four in the +afternoon, we perceived a large canoe with a sail, and two small ones +ahead; we soon came up with them, when they proved to be M. Le Roux and +an Indian, with his family, who were on a hunting party, and had been +out twenty-five days. It was his intention to have gone as far as the +river, to leave a letter for me, to inform me of his situation. He had +seen no more Indians where I had left him; but had made a voyage to Lac +la Marte, where he met eighteen small canoes of the Slave Indians, from +whom he obtained five pack of skins, which were principally those of the +marten. There were four Beaver Indians among them, who had bartered the +greatest part of the above mentioned articles with them, before his +arrival. They informed him that their relations had more skins, but +that they were afraid to venture with them, though they had been +informed that people were to come with goods to barter for them. He +gave these people a pair of ice chisels each, and other articles, and +sent them away to conduct their friends to the Slave Lake, where he was +to remain during the succeeding winter.</p> + +<p>We set three nets and in a short time <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p330"></A>330}</SPAN>caught twenty fish of different +kinds. In the dusk of the evening, the English chief arrived with a +most pitiful account that he had like to have been drowned in trying to +follow us; and that the other men had also a very narrow escape. Their +canoe, he said, had broken on the swell, at some distance from the +shore, but as it was flat, they had with his assistance been able to +save themselves. He added, that he left them lamenting, lest they +should not overtake me, if I did not wait for them; he also expressed +his apprehensions that they would not be able to repair their canoe. +This evening I gave my men some rum to cheer them after their fatigues.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 25.</i>—We rose this morning at a late hour, +when we visited the nets, which produced but few fish: my people, +indeed, partook of the stores of M. Le Roux. At eleven, the young +Indians arrived, and reproached me for having left them so far behind. +They had killed two swans, and brought me one of them. The wind was +Southerly throughout the day, and too strong for us to depart, as we +were at the foot of a grand traverse. At noon I had an observation, +which gave 61. 29. North latitude. Such was the state of the weather, +that we could not visit our nets. In the afternoon, the sky darkened, +and there was lightning, accompanied with loud claps of +thunder. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p331"></A>331}</SPAN>The wind +also veered round to the Westward, and blew a hurricane.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 26.</i>—It rained throughout the night, and +till eight in the morning, without any alteration in the wind. The +Indians went on a hunting excursion, but returned altogether without +success in the evening. One of them was so unfortunate as to miss a +moose-deer. In the afternoon there were heavy showers, with thunder, +&c.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 27.</i>—We embarked before four, and hoisted +sail. At nine we landed to dress victuals, and wait for M. Le Roux and +the Indians. At eleven, we proceeded with fine and calm weather. At +four in the afternoon, a light breeze sprang up to the Southward, to +which we spread our sail, and at half past five in the afternoon, went +on shore for the night. We then set our nets. The English chief and +his people being quite exhausted with fatigue, he this morning expressed +his desire to remain behind, in order to proceed to the country of the +Beaver Indians, engaging at the same time, that he would return to +Athabasca in the course of the winter.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 28.</i>—It blew very hard throughout the night, +and this morning, so that we found it a business of some difficulty to +get to our nets; our trouble, however, was repaid by a considerable +quantity of white fish, trout, &c. Towards the afternoon the wind +increased. <SPAN CLASS= "pagenum">{<A NAME="p332"></A>332}</SPAN>Two of +the men who had been gathering berries saw two moose-deer, with the +tracks of buffaloes and rein-deer. About sunset we heard two shots, and +saw a fire on the opposite side of the bay; we accordingly made a large +fire also, that our position might be determined. When we were all gone +to bed, we heard the report of a gun very near us, and in a very short +time the English chief presented himself drenched with wet, and in much +apparent confusion informed me that the canoe with his companions was +broken to pieces; and that they had lost their fowling pieces, and the +flesh of a rein-deer, which they had killed this morning. They were, he +said, at a very short distance from us; and at the same time requested +that fire might be sent to them, as they were starving with cold. They +and his women, however, soon joined us, and were immediately +accommodated with dry clothes.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 29.</i>—I sent the Indians on an hunting +party, but they returned without success; and they expressed their +determination not to follow me any further, from their apprehension of +being drowned.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 30.</i>—We embarked at one this morning, and +took from the nets a large trout, and twenty white fish. At sunrise a +smart aft breeze sprang up, which wafted us to M. Le Roux's house by two +in the +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p333"></A>333}</SPAN> afternoon. It was +late before he and our Indians arrived; when, according to a promise +which I had made the latter, I gave them a plentiful equipment of iron +ware, ammunition, tobacco, &c., as a recompense for the toil and +inconvenience they had sustained with me.</p> + +<p>I proposed to the English chief to proceed to the country of the Beaver +Indians, and bring them to dispose of their peltries to M. Le Roux, whom +I intended to leave there the ensuing winter. He had already engaged to +be at Athabasca, in the month of March next, with plenty of furs.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 31.</i>—I sat up all night to make the necessary +arrangements for the embarkation of this morning, and to prepare +instructions for M. Le Roux. We obtained some provisions here, and +parted from him at five, with fine calm weather. It soon, however, +became necessary to land on a small island, to stop the leakage of the +canoe, which had been occasioned by the shot of an arrow under the water +mark, by some Indian children. While this business was proceeding, we +took the opportunity of dressing some fish. At twelve, the wind sprang +up from the South-East, which was in the teeth of our direction, so that +our progress was greatly impeded. I had an observation, which gave +62. 15. North latitude. We landed at seven in the evening, and pitched +our tents.</p> + +<br><p><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p334"></A>334}</SPAN><i>Tuesday, +1.</i>—We continued our voyage at five in the morning, the weather +calm and fine, and passed the Isle a la Cache about twelve, but could +not perceive the land, which was seen in our former passage. On passing +the Carreboeuf Islands, at five in the afternoon, we saw land to the +South by West, which we thought was the opposite side of the lake, +stretching away to a great distance. We landed at half past six in the +evening, when there was thunder, and an appearance of change in the +weather.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 2.</i>—It rained and blew hard the latter +part of the night. At half past five the rain subsided, when we made a +traverse of twelve miles, and took in a good deal of water. At twelve +it became calm, when I had an observation, which gave 61. 36. North +latitude. At three in the afternoon, there was a slight breeze from the +Westward which soon increased, when we hoisted sail, and took a traverse +of twenty-four miles, for the point of the old Fort, where we arrived at +seven, and stopped for the night. This traverse shortened our way three +leagues; indeed we did not expect to have cleared the lake in such a +short time.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 3.</i>—It blew with great violence throughout +the night, and at four in the morning we embarked, when we did not make +more than five miles three hours, +without <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p335"></A>335}</SPAN> stopping; +notwithstanding we were sheltered from the swell by a long bank. We now +entered the small river, where the wind could have no effect upon us. +There were frequent showers in the course of the day, and we encamped at +six in the evening.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 4.</i>—The morning was dark and cloudy, +nevertheless we embarked at five; but at ten it cleared up. We saw a +few fowl, and at seven in the evening, went on shore for the night.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 5.</i>—The weather continued to be cloudy. At +five we proceeded, and at eight it began to rain very hard. In about +half an hour we put to shore, and were detained for the remaining part +of the day.</p> + +<br><p><i>Sunday, 6.</i>—It rained throughout the night, with a +strong North wind. Numerous flocks of wild fowl passed to the +Southward; at six in the afternoon, the rain, in some measure, subsided, +and we embarked, but it soon returned with renewed violence; we, +nevertheless took the advantage of an aft wind, though it cost us a +complete drenching. The hunters killed seven, geese, and we pitched our +tents at half past six in the evening.</p> + +<br><p><i>Monday, 7.</i>—We were on the water at five this +morning, with a head wind, accompanied by successive showers. At three +in the afternoon, we ran the canoe on a stump, and it filled with water +before she could be got +to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p336"></A>336}</SPAN>land. Two hours +were employed in repairing her, and at seven in the evening, we took our +station for the night.</p> + +<br><p><i>Tuesday, 8.</i>—We renewed our voyage at half past four +in a thick mist which lasted till nine, when it cleared away, and fine +weather succeeded. At three in the afternoon we came to the first +carrying-place, <i>Portage des Noyes</i>, and encamped at the upper end +of it to dry our clothes, some of which were almost rotten.</p> + +<br><p><i>Wednesday, 9.</i>—We embarked at five in the morning, +and our canoe was damaged on the men's shoulders, who were bearing it +over the carrying-place, called <i>Portage du Chetique</i>. The guide +repaired her, however, while the other men were employed in carrying the +baggage. The canoe was `gummed at the carrying-place named +the <i>Portage de la Montagne</i>. After having passed the +carrying-places, we encamped at the Dog River, at half past four in the +afternoon, in a state of great fatigue. The canoe was again gummed, and +paddles were made to replace those that had been broken in ascending the +rapids. A swan was the only animal we killed throughout the day.</p> + +<br><p><i>Thursday, 10.</i>—There was rain and violent wind during +the night: in the morning the former subsided and the latter increased. +At half past five we continued our +course <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p337"></A>337}</SPAN> with a +North-Westerly wind. At seven we hoisted sail: in the forenoon there +were frequent showers of rain and hail, and in the afternoon two showers +of snow: the wind was at this time very strong, and at six in the +evening we landed at a lodge of Knisteneaux, consisting of three men and +five women and children. They were on their return from war, and one of +them was very sick: they separated from the rest of their party in the +enemy's country, from absolute hunger. After this separation, they met +with a family of the hostile tribe, whom they destroyed. They were +entirely ignorant of the fate of their friends, but imagined that they +had returned to the Peace River, or had perished for want of food. I +gave medicine to the sick,<a name="chap7-l1" href="#chap7-r1">[1]</a> +and a small portion of ammunition +to <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p338"></A>338}</SPAN> the healthy; +which, indeed, they very much wanted, as they had entirely lived for the +last six months on the produce of their bows and arrows. They appeared +to have been great sufferers by their expedition.</p> + +<br><p><i>Friday, 11.</i>—It froze hard during the night, and was +very cold throughout the day, with an appearance of snow. We embarked +at half past four in the morning, and continued our course till six in +the evening, when we landed for the night at our encampment of the third +of June.</p> + +<br><p><i>Saturday, 12.</i>—The weather was cloudy, and also very +cold. At eight, we embarked with a North-East wind, and entered the +Lake of the Hills. About ten, the wind veered to the West-ward, and was +as strong as we could bear it with the high sail, so that we arrived at +Chepewyan fort by three o'clock in the afternoon, where we found +Mr. Macleod, with five men busily employed in building a new house. +Here, then, we concluded this voyage, which had occupied the +considerable space of one hundred and two days.</p> + +<p class="footnote"><a name="chap7-r1" href="#chap7-l1">[1]</a> This man +had conceived an idea, that the people with whom he had been at war, had +thrown medicine at him, which had caused his present complaint, and that +he despaired of recovery. The natives are so superstitious, that this +idea alone was sufficient to kill him. Of this weakness I took +advantage; and assured him, that if he would never more go to war with +such poor defenceless people, I would cure him. To this proposition he +readily consented, and on my giving him medicine, which consisted of +Turlington's balsam, mixed in water, I declared that it would lose its +effect, if he was not sincere in the promise that he made me. In short, +he actually recovered, was true to his engagements, and on all occasions +manifested his gratitude to me.</p> + +<br> +<br> +<br> +<a href="images/west-map-large.png"> +<img src="images/west-map.png" width="100%" alt="Map of Expedition West"> +</a> +<br><br> +<hr> +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p339"></A>339}</SPAN> +<center> +<h4><a name="chapter8" href="#toc_chapter8"> CHAPTER VIII.</a> +</h4> +</center> + +<p class=noindent>OCTOBER 10, 1792.</p> + +<p>Having made every necessary preparation, I left Fort Chepewyan, to +proceed up the Peace River, I had resolved to go as far as our most +distant settlement, which would occupy the remaining part of the season, +it being the route by which I proposed to attempt my next discovery, +across the mountains from the source of that river; for whatever +distance I could reach this fall, would be a proportionate advancement +of my voyage.</p> + +<p>In consequence of this design, I left the establishment of Fort +Chepewyan, in charge of Mr. Roderic Mackenzie, accompanied by two canoes +laden with the necessary articles for trade: we accordingly steered West +for one of the branches that communicates with the Peace River, called +the Pine River; at the entrance of which we waited for the other canoes, +in order to take some supplies from them, as I had reason to apprehend +they would not be able to keep up with us. We entered the Peace River +at seven in the morning of the 12th, taking a Westerly course. It is +evident, that all the land between it and the Lake of the Hills, as far +as the Elk River, <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p340"></A>340}</SPAN> +is formed by the quantity of earth and mud, which is +carried down by the streams of those two great rivers. In this space +there are several lakes. The Lake Clear Water, which is the deepest, +Lake Vassieu, and the Athabasca Lake, which is the largest of the three, +and whose denomination in the Knisteneaux language implies, a flat, low, +swampy country, subject to inundations. The two last lakes are now so +shallow, that from the cause just mentioned, there is every reason to +expect, that in a few years they will have exchanged their character, +and become extensive forests.</p> + +<p>This country is so level, that, at some seasons, it is entirely +overflowed, which accounts for the periodical influx and reflux of the +waters between the Lake of the Hills and the Peace River.</p> + +<p>On the 13th at noon we came to the Peace Point; from which, according to +the report of my interpreter, the river derives its name; it was the +spot where the Knisteneaux and Beaver Indians settled their dispute; the +real name of the river and point being that of the land which was the +object of contention.</p> + +<p>When this country was formerly invaded by the Knisteneaux, they found +the Beaver Indians inhabiting the land about Portage la Loche; and the +adjoining tribe were those whom they called slaves. They drove both +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p341"></A>341}</SPAN> +these tribes before them; when the latter proceeded down the river from +the Lake of the Hills, in consequence of which that part of it obtained +the name of the Slave River. The former proceeded up the river; and +when the Knisteneaux made peace with them, this place was settled to be +the boundary.</p> + +<p>We continued our voyage, and I did not find the current so strong in +this river as I had been induced to believe, though this, perhaps, was +not the period to form a correct notion of that circumstance, as well as +of the breadth, the water being very low; so that the stream has not +appeared to me to be in any part that I have seen, more than a quarter +of a mile wide.</p> + +<p>The weather was cold and raw, so as to render our progress unpleasant; +at the same time we did not relax in our expedition, and, at three on +the afternoon of the 17th we arrived at the falls. The river at this +place is about four hundred yards broad, and the fall about twenty feet +high: the first carrying place is eight hundred paces in length, and the +last, which is about a mile onwards, is something more than two-thirds +of that distance. Here we found several fires, from which circumstance +we concluded, that the canoes destined for this quarter, which left the +fort some days before us, could not be far a-head. The weather +continued to be very <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p342"></A>342}</SPAN> +cold, and the snow that fell during the night was +several inches deep.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 18th, as soon as we got out of the draught of the +fall, the wind being at North-East, and strong in our favour, we hoisted +sail, which carried us on at a considerable rate against the current, +and passed the Loon River before twelve o'clock; from thence we soon +came along the Grande Isle, at the upper end of which we encamped for +the night. It now froze very hard: indeed, it had so much the +appearance of winter, that I began to entertain some alarm lest we might +be stopped by the ice: we therefore set off at three o'clock in the +morning of the 19th, and about eight we landed at the Old Establishment.</p> + +<p>The passage to this place from Athabasca having been surveyed by +M. Vandrieul, formerly in the Company's service, I did not think it +necessary to give any particular attention to it; I shall, however, just +observe, that the course in general from the Lake of the Hills to the +falls, is Westerly, and as much to the North as the South of it, from +thence it is about West-South-West to this fort.</p> + +<p>The country in general is low from our entrance of the river to the +falls, and with the exception of a few open parts covered with grass, it +is clothed with wood. Where +the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p343"></A>343}</SPAN> banks are very +low the soil is good, being composed of the sediment of the river and +putrefied leaves and vegetables. Where they are more elevated, they +display a face of yellowish clay, mixed with small stones. On a line +with the falls, and on either side of the river, there are said to be +very extensive plains, which afford pasture to numerous herds of +buffaloes Our people a-head slept here last night, and, from their +carelessness, the fire was communicated to and burned down, the large +house, and was proceeding fast to the smaller buildings when we arrived +to extinguish it.</p> + +<p>We continued our voyage, the course of the river being South-West by +West one mile and a quarter, South by East one mile, South-West by South +three miles, West by South one mile, South-South-West two miles, South +four miles, South-West seven miles and a half, South by West one mile, +North-North-West two miles and a half, South five miles and a quarter, +South-West one mile and a half, North-East by East three miles and a +half, and South-East by East one mile.</p> + +<p>We overtook Mr. Finlay, with his canoes, who was encamped near the +fort of which he was going to take the charge, during the ensuing +winter, and made every necessary preparative for a becoming appearance +on our arrival the following morning. Although I +had <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= "p344"></A>344}</SPAN>been since the +year 1787, in the Athabasca country, I had never yet seen a single +native of that part of it which we had now reached.</p> + +<p>At six o'clock in the morning of the 20th, we landed before the house +amidst the rejoicing and firing of the people, who were animated with +the prospect of again indulging themselves in the luxury of rum, of +which they had been deprived since the beginning of May; as it is a +practice throughout the North-West neither to sell or give any rum to +the natives during the summer. There was at this time only one chief +with his people, the other two being hourly expected with their bands; +and on the 21st and 22d they all arrived except the war chief and +fifteen men. As they very soon expressed their desire of the expected +regale, I called them together, to the number of forty-two hunters, or +men capable of bearing arms, to offer some advice, which would be +equally advantageous to them and to us, and I strengthened my admonition +with a nine gallon cask of reduced rum, and a quantity of tobacco. At +the same time I observed, that as I should not often visit them, I had +instanced a greater degree of liberality than they had been accustomed +to.</p> + +<p>The number of people belonging to this establishment amounts to about +three hundred, of which, sixty are hunters. Although they appear from +their language to be of +the <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p345"></A>345}</SPAN> same stock as +the Chepewyans, they differ from them in appearance, manners, and +customs, as they have adopted those of their former enemies, the +Knisteneaux; they speak their language, as well as cut their hair, +paint, and dress like them, and possess their immoderate fondness for +liquor and tobacco. This description, however, can be applied only to +the men, as the women are less adorned even than those of the Chepewyan +tribes. We could not observe, without some degree of surprize, the +contrast between the neat and decent appearance of the men, and the +nastiness of the women. I am disposed, however, to think, that this +circumstance is generally owing to the extreme submission and abasement +of the latter: for I observed, that one of the chiefs allowed two of his +wives more liberty and familiarity than were accorded to the others, as +well as a more becoming exterior, and their appearance was +proportionably pleasing; I shall, however, take a future opportunity to +speak more at large on this subject.</p> + +<p>There were frequent changes of the weather in the course of the day, +and it froze rather hard in the night. The thickness of the ice in the +morning was a sufficient notice for me to proceed. I accordingly gave +the natives such good counsel as might influence their behaviour, +communicated my directions to Mr. <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME= +"p346"></A>346}</SPAN>Findlay for his future conduct, and took my leave +under several vollies of musketry, on the morning of the 23d. I had +already dispatched my loaded canoes two days before, with directions to +continue their progress without waiting for me. Our course was +South-South-East one mile and an half, South three quarters; East seven +miles and a half, veering gradually to the West four miles and an half, +South-East by South three miles, South-East three miles and an half, +East-South-East to Long Point three miles, South-West one mile and a +quarter, East by North four miles and three quarters, West three miles +and an half, West-South-West one mile, East by South five miles and a +half, South three miles and three quarters, South-East by South three +miles, East-South-East three miles, East-North-East one mile, when there +was a river that flowed in on the right, East two miles and an half, +East-South-East half a mile, South-East by South seven miles and an +half, South two miles, South-South-East three miles and an half; in the +course of which we passed an island South by West, where a rivulet +flowed in on the right, one mile, East one mile and an half, South five +miles, South-East by South four miles and an half, South-West one mile, +South-East by East four miles and an half, West-South-West half a mile, +South-West six miles +and <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p347"></A>347}</SPAN> three +quarters, South-East by South one mile and an half, South one mile and +an half; South-East by South two miles, South-West three quarters of a +mile, South-East by South two miles and an half, East by South one mile +and three quarters, South two miles, South-East one mile and an half, +South-South-East half a mile, East by South two miles and an half, +North-East three miles, South-West by West short distance to the +establishment of last year, East-North-East four miles, South-South-East +one mile and three quarters, South half a mile, South-East by South +three quarters of a mile, North-East by East one mile, South three +miles, South-South-East one mile and three quarters, South by East four +miles and an half, South-West three miles, South by East two miles, +South by West one mile and an half, South-West two miles, South by West +four miles and an half, South-West one mile and an half, and South by +East three miles. Here we arrived at the forks of the river; the +Eastern branch appearing to be not more than half the size of the +Western one. We pursued the latter, in a course South-West by West six +miles, and landed on the first of November at the place which was +designed to be my winter residence: indeed, the weather had been so cold +and disagreeable, that I was more than once apprehensive of our being +stopped by <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p348"></A>348}</SPAN> the +ice, and, after all, it required the utmost exertions of which my men +were capable to prevent it; so that on their arrival they were quite +exhausted. Nor were their labours at an end, for there was not a single +hut to receive us: it was, however, now in my power to feed and sustain +them in a more comfortable manner.</p> + +<p>We found two men here who had been sent forward last spring, for the +purpose of squaring timber for the erection of a house, and cutting +pallisades, &c., to surround it. With them was the principal chief of +the place, and about seventy men, who had been anxiously waiting for our +arrival, and received us with every mark of satisfaction and regard +which they could express. If we might judge from the quantity of powder +that was wasted on our arrival, they certainly had not been in want of +ammunition, at least during the summer.</p> + +<p>The banks of the river, from the falls, are in general lofty, except at +low woody points, accidentally formed in the manner I have already +mentioned: they also displayed, in all their broken parts, a face of +clay, intermixed with stone; in some places there likewise appeared a +black mould.</p> + +<p>In the summer of 1788, a small spot was cleared at the Old +Establishment, which is situated on a bank thirty feet above the level +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p349"></A>349}</SPAN>of the river, and +was sown with turnips, carrots, and parsnips. The +first grew to a large size, and the others thrived very well. An +experiment was also made with potatoes and cabbage, the former of which +were successful; but for want of care the latter failed. The next +winter the person who had undertaken this cultivation, suffered the +potatoes which had been collected for seed, to catch the frost, and none +had been since brought to this place. There is not the least doubt but +the soil would be very productive, if a proper attention was given to +its preparation. In the fall of the year 1787, when I first arrived at +Athabasca, Mr. Pond was settled on the banks of the Elk River, where he +remained for three years, and had formed as fine a kitchen garden as I +ever saw in Canada.</p> + +<p>In addition to the wood which flourished below the fall, these banks +produce the cypress tree, arrow-wood, and the thorn. On either side of +the river, though invisible from it, are extensive plains, which abound +in buffaloes, elks, wolves, foxes, and bears. At a considerable +distance to the Westward, is an immense ridge of high land or mountains, +which take an oblique direction from below the falls, and are inhabited +by great numbers of deer, which are seldom disturbed, but when the +Indians go to hunt the beaver in those parts; and, being tired with the +flesh <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p350"></A>350}</SPAN> +of the latter, vary their food with that of the former. This +ridge bears the name of the Deer Mountain. Opposite to our present +situation, are beautiful meadows, with various animals grazing on them, +and groves of poplars irregularly scattered over them.</p> + +<p>My tent was no sooner pitched, than I summoned the Indians together, and +gave each of them about four inches of Brazil tobacco, a dram of +spirits, and lighted the pipe. As they had been very troublesome to my +predecessor, I informed them that I had heard of their misconduct, and +was come among them to inquire into the truth of it. I added also that +it would be an established rule with me to treat them with kindness, if +their behaviour should be such as to deserve it; but, at the same time, +that I should be equally severe if they failed in those returns which I +had a right to expect from them. I then presented them with a quantity +of rum, which I recommended to be used with discretion; and added some +tobacco, as a token of peace. They, in return, made me the fairest +promises; and having expressed the pride they felt on beholding me in +their country, took their leave.</p> + +<p>I now proceeded to examine my situation; and it was with great +satisfaction I observed that the two men who had been sent hither some +time before us, to cut and square timber for our future operations, had +employed <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p351"></A>351}</SPAN> the +intervening period with activity and skill. They had formed a +sufficient quantity of pallisades of eighteen feet long, and seven +inches in diameter, to inclose a square spot of an hundred and twenty +feet; they had also dug a ditch of three feet deep to receive them; and +had prepared timber, planks, &c., for the erection of a house.</p> + +<p>I was, however, so much occupied in settling matters with the Indians, +and equipping them for their winter hunting, that I could not give my +attention to any other object, till the 7th, when I set all hands at +work to construct the fort, build the house, and form store houses. On +the preceding day the river began to run with ice, which we call the +last of the navigation. On the 11th we had a South-West wind, with +snow. On the 16th, the ice stopped in the other fork, which was not +above a league from us, across the intervening neck of land. The water +in this branch continued to flow till the 22d, when it was arrested also +by the frost, so that we had a passage across the river, which would +last to the latter end of the succeeding April. This was a fortunate +circumstance, as we depended for our support upon what the hunters could +provide for us, and they had been prevented by the running of the ice +from crossing the river. They now, however, very shortly procured us as +much fresh meat as we <SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p352"></A>352}</SPAN> +required, though it was for some time a toilsome +business to my people, for as there was not yet a sufficient quantity of +snow to run sledges, they were under the necessity of loading themselves +with the spoils of the chase.</p> + +<p>On the 27th the frost was so severe that the axes of the workmen became +almost as brittle as glass. The weather was very various until the 2d +of December, when my Farenheit's thermometer was injured by an accident, +which rendered it altogether useless. The table on page 353, therefore, +from the 16th of November, to this unfortunate circumstance, is the only +correct account of the weather which I can offer.</p> + +<p>In this situation, removed from all those ready aids which add so much +to the comfort, and, indeed is a principal characteristic of civilized +life, I was under the necessity of employing my judgment and experience +in accessory circumstances by no means connected with the habits of my +life, or the enterprise in which I was immediately engaged. I was now +among the people who had no knowledge whatever of remediable application +to those disorders and accidents to which man is liable in every part of +the globe, in the distant wilderness, as in the peopled city. They had +not the least acquaintance with that primitive medicine, which consists +in an </p><br> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p353"></A>353}</SPAN> +<pre> + +Month|Date|Hours|Below|Above|Wind|Weather||Hour|Below|Above|Wind|Weather||Hour|Below|Above|Wind|Weather|| + and | |A.M. | 0 | 0 | | || | 0 | 0 | | ||P.M.| 0 | | | || +year | | | | | | || | | | | || | | | | || +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- +1792 | | | | | | || | | | | || | | | | || +Nov. |16 | 8½ | ... | 10 |....| || 12 | 0 | 14 |....| || 6 | .. | 15 |....|Cloudy.|| + |17 | 8½ | ... | 17 |....|Clear. || 12 | .. | 20 |... |Clear. || 6 | .. | 23 |....|ditto. || + |18 | 9 | ... | 19 |ESE | || 12 | .. | 21 |ESE | || 6 | .. | 14 |ESE |Clear. || + |19 | 8 | ... | 5 |NW | || 12 | .. | 12 |NW | || 6 | .. | 9 |NW |ditto. ||Strong wind + |20 | 8½ | ... | 4 |... |ditto. || 12 | .. | 14 |....|ditto. || 6 | .. | 19 |....|Cloudy.||At 10 last night 1 below 0 + |21 | 8 | ... | 19 |... | || 12 | .. | 25 |....| || 6 | .. | 23 |....|...... ||River stopped. + |22 | 9 | ... | 27 |... |Cloudy.|| 12 | .. | 29 |....|Cloudy.|| 6 | .. | 28 |....|Cloudy ||Ice drove and water rises. + |23 | 8½ | ... | 2 |N |Clear. || 12 | .. | 23 |....|Clear. || 6 | .. | 15 |N |...... ||Ice drove again. + |24 | 8 | 3 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | 0 | 0 |NE | || 6 | 1 | .. |NE |Cloudy.|| + |25 | 8 | 14 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | 4 | .. |....| || 6 | 2 | .. |....|Clear. ||Snowed last night 2 inches. + |26 | 9 | 10 | .. |N |ditto. || 12 | .. | 2 |N | || 6 | 0 | 0 |N |ditto. || + |27 | 8 | 2 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | 3 | 2 |....| || 6 | .. | 1 |SW |ditto. || + |28 | 8 | 16 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | .. | .. |....| || 6 | 7 | .. |S |ditto. ||After dark, overcast. + |29 | 7½ | ... | 4 |... |Cloudy.|| 12 | .. | 13 |....| || 6 | .. | 7 |....|ditto. ||Ditto, a little wind S. W. + |30 | 9 | ... | 4 |S | || 12 | .. | 13 |S |Cloudy.|| 6 | .. | 16 |S |Cloudy.|| + Dec.| 1 | 9 | ... | 0 |... | || 12 | | 19 |SE | || 5 | .. | 24 |SE |ditto. ||Fell 3 inches snow last night. + | 2 | 9 | ... | 27 |E | || | | | | || 5 | | | | || + +</pre> + +<p CLASS="noindent"><SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p354"></A>354}</SPAN>experience of +the healing virtues of herbs and plants, and is +frequently found among uncivilised and savage nations. This +circumstance now obliged me to be their physician and surgeon, as a +woman with a swelled breast, which had been lacerated with flint stones +for the cure of it, presented herself to my attention, and by +cleanliness, poultices, and healing salve, I succeeded in producing a +cure. One of my people, also, who was at work in the woods, was +attacked with a sudden pain near the first joint of his thumb, which +disabled him from holding an axe. On examining his arm, I was +astonished to find a narrow red stripe, about half an inch wide, from +his thumb to his shoulder; the pain was violent, and accompanied with +chilliness and shivering. This was a case that appeared to be beyond my +skill, but it was necessary to do something towards relieving the mind +of the patient, though I might be unsuccessful in removing his +complaint. I accordingly prepared a kind of volatile liniment of rum +and soap, with which I ordered his arm to be rubbed, but with little or +no effect. He was in a raving state throughout the night, and the red +stripe not only increased, but was also accompanied with the appearance +of several blotches on his body, and pains in his stomach; the propriety +of taking some blood from him now occurred to and I ventured, from +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="p355"></A>355}</SPAN> +absolute necessity, to perform that operation for the first time, and +with an effect that justified the treatment. The following night +afforded him rest, and in a short time he regained his former health and +activity.</p> + +<p>I was very much surprised on walking in the woods at such an inclement +period of the year, to be saluted with the singing of birds, while they +seemed by their vivacity to be actuated by the invigorating power of a +more genial season. Of these birds the male was something less than the +robin; part of his body is of a delicate fawn colour, and his neck, +breast, and belly, of a deep scarlet; the wings are black, edged with +fawn colour, and two white stripes running across them; the tail is +variegated, and the head crowned with a tuft. The female is smaller +than the male, and of a fawn colour throughout, except on the neck, +which is enlivened by an hue of glossy yellow. I have no doubt but they +are constant inhabitants of this climate, as well as some other small +birds which we saw, of a grey colour. +</p> +<br> + + +<hr align="center" width="80%"> + + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages from Montreal Through the +Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793, by Alexander Mackenzie + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL I *** + +***** This file should be named 35658-h.htm or 35658-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/6/5/35658/ + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Voyages from Montreal Through the Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793 + Vol. I + +Author: Alexander Mackenzie + +Release Date: March 22, 2011 [EBook #35658] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL I *** + + + + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + + + + +VOYAGES from MONTREAL +THROUGH THE CONTINENT of NORTH AMERICA + +TO THE +FROZEN and PACIFIC OCEANS +IN 1789 and 1793 + +WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE RISE +AND STATE OF THE FUR TRADE + +By + +ALEXANDER MACKENZIE + +WITH MAP + + +IN TWO VOLUMES + +VOL. I. + + +NEW YORK +A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY +1903 + + + + +Registered at the +Library of Congress, August, 1902 +A. S. BARNES & COMPANY + + + + +Introduction. + +The exact date of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's birth is not accurately +known, although it is supposed he was born at Inverness, Scotland, about +1755. He came to North America at an early age and obtained employment +in the counting-house of Messrs. Gregory and Co., a connexion of the +North-West Fur Company. It was while he was with this company that he +obtained the experience and knowledge necessary to his profession of a +fur-trader, long before he undertook his arduous and dangerous +expeditions to the far North. He was soon to distinguish himself. His +firm gave him a small venture to Detroit on condition that he penetrate +to the back country, which was then almost entirely unexplored, and open +up trade with the Indians. He carried out his task in his usual +thorough manner, but not without a severe struggle with a party of +European traders, who had already obtained a foothold on the margin of +this district, and who resented any interference with their monopoly by +outside parties. However, finally the intruders were permitted to +remain and share in the trade with the first comers. For many years +after this, Mr. Mackenzie was occupied in trading and exploring in +various parts of the continent, but of these operations we have, +unfortunately, little or no record. After the amalgamation of the +North-West Company with the older Hudson's-Bay Company, Mr. Mackenzie +appears to have resided in Canada, where he became a member of the +provincial parliament, representing Huntingdon County. He married in +1812, and afterwards bought an estate at Avoch, Ross-shire, Scotland, +where he resided until his death in March, 1820. + +It is as an explorer of the vast and lonely wilds of the North that +Mackenzie's fame chiefly rests. The bravery and hardihood which carried +him thousands of miles over the prairie and muskegs of the illimitable +plains, down the rapids of great unknown rivers, over the ranges of +almost impassable mountains, will always command the admiration of all +who care for noble deeds. With a small party of Canadian _voyageurs_ +and Indians, in birch-bark canoes, Mr. Mackenzie started to explore the +unknown regions of the North. Skirting the Great Slave Lake, he finally +entered the Mackenzie River, and then began that long, deep plunge into +the wilderness, which lasted many months, until he finally emerged on +the shores of the Arctic Ocean, in Latitude 69. North. Here he set up a +post with his name and date of visit. The return voyage was fraught +with many dangers and vicissitudes, but he finally arrived safely at +Fort Chippewayan in September, 1789. + +Mr. Mackenzie's next expedition was even more dangerous and difficult +than the former. He started from Fort Chippewayan on the 10th of July, +1792, with the object of reaching the Pacific Coast, an enterprise never +before attempted by a European. After more than nine months of perilous +travel he achieved his ambition and reached the Great Western Ocean near +Cape Menzies on the 22nd June, 1793. He is said to have inscribed on +the face of a rock the date of his visit, and here it was that he was +nearly murdered by the natives before setting out on his return. + +The results of Mr. Mackenzie's voyages to the far North have not been +meagre. The opening of the territory to the west of the Rocky +Mountains, followed quickly after; and the great Hudson's-Bay Company +immediately started to stud the whole northern country with small +trading posts, whence have been drawn since incalculable riches in the +furs of the North. + +All this is easy enough to write down, but the tale is still far from +being told in full. What of the long days of gloom and loneliness, days +of peril and uncertainty, days when hope had almost reached the +vanishing point? Who shall speak? It is a fascinating record which has +placed the name of this indomitable Scotchman beside the names of the +world's greatest explorers. + +ROBERT WAITE. + + + + +Preface. + +On presenting this Volume to my Country, it is not necessary to enter +into a particular account of those voyages whose journals form the +principal part of it, as they will be found, I trust, to explain +themselves. It appears, however, to be a duty, which the Public have a +right to expect from me, to state the reasons which have influenced me +in delaying the publication of them. + +It has been asserted, that a misunderstanding between a person high in +office and myself, was the cause of this procrastination. It has also +been propagated, that it was occasioned by that precaution which the +policy of commerce will sometimes suggest; but they are both equally +devoid of foundation. The one is an idle tale; and there could be no +solid reason for concealing the circumstances of discoveries, whose +arrangements and prosecution were so honourable to my associates and +myself, at whose expense they were undertaken. The delay actually arose +from the very active and busy mode of life in which I was engaged since +the voyages have been completed; and when, at length, the opportunity +arrived, the apprehension of presenting myself to the Public in the +character of an Author, for which the courses and occupations of my life +have by no means qualified me, made me hesitate in committing my papers +to the Press; being much better calculated to perform the voyages, +arduous as they might be, than to write an account of them. However, +they are now offered to the Public with the submission that becomes me. + +I was led, at an early period of life, by commercial views, to the +country North-West of Lake Superior, in North America, and being endowed +by Nature with an inquisitive mind and enterprising spirit; possessing +also a constitution and frame of body equal to the most arduous +undertakings, and being familiar with toilsome exertions in the +prosecution of mercantile pursuits, I not only contemplated the +practicability of penetrating across the continent of America, but was +confident in the qualifications, as I was animated by the desire, to +undertake the perilous enterprise. + +The general utility of such a discovery, has been universally +acknowledged; while the wishes of my particular friends and commercial +associates, that I should proceed in the pursuit of it, contributed to +quicken the execution of this favourite project of my own ambition: and +as the completion of it extends the boundaries of geographic science, +and adds new countries to the realms of British commerce, the dangers I +have encountered, and the toils I have suffered, have found their +recompence; nor will the many tedious and weary days, or the gloomy and +inclement nights which I have passed, have been passed in vain. + +The first voyage has settled the dubious point of a practicable +North-West passage; and I trust it has set that long agitated question +at rest, and extinguished the disputes respecting it for ever. An +enlarged discussion of that subject will be found to occupy the +concluding pages of this volume. + +In this voyage, I was not only without the necessary books and +instruments, but also felt myself deficient in the sciences of astronomy +and navigation; I did not hesitate, therefore, to undertake a winter's +voyage to this country, in order to procure the one, and acquire the +other. These objects being accomplished, I returned, to determine the +practicability of a commercial communication through the continent of +North America, between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, which is proved +by my second journal. Nor do I hesitate to declare my decided opinion, +that very great and essential advantages may be derived by extending our +trade from one sea to the other. + +Some account of the fur trade of Canada from that country, of the native +inhabitants, and of the extensive districts connected with it, forms a +preliminary discourse, which will, I trust, prove interesting to a +nation, whose general policy is blended with, and whose prosperity is +supported by, the pursuits of commerce. It will also qualify the reader +to pursue the succeeding voyages with superior intelligence and +satisfaction. + +These voyages will not, I fear, afford the variety that may be expected +from them; and that which they offered to the eye, is not of a nature to +be effectually transferred to the page. Mountains and valleys, the +dreary waste, and the wide-spreading forests, the lakes and rivers +succeed each other in general description; and, except on the coasts of +the Pacific Ocean, where the villages were permanent, and the +inhabitants in a great measure stationary, small bands of wandering +Indians are the only people whom I shall introduce to the acquaintance +of my readers. + +The beaver and the buffalo, the moose-deer and the elk, which are the +principal animals to be found in these countries, are already so +familiar to the naturalists of Europe, and have been so often as well as +correctly described in their works, that the bare mention of them, as +they enlivened the landscape, or were hunted for food; with a cursory +account of the soil, the course and navigation of lakes and rivers, and +their various produce, is all that can be reasonably expected from me. + +I do not possess the science of the naturalist; and even if the +qualifications of that character had been attained by me, its curious +spirit would not have been gratified. I could not stop to dig into the +earth, over whose surface I was compelled to pass with rapid steps; nor +could I turn aside to collect the plants which nature might have +scattered on the way, when my thoughts were anxiously employed in making +provision for the day that was passing over me. I had to encounter +perils by land and perils by water; to watch the savage who was our +guide, or to guard against those of his tribe who might meditate our +destruction. I had, also, the passions and fears of others to control +and subdue. To-day, I had to assuage the rising discontents, and on the +morrow, to cheer the fainting spirits of the people who accompanied me. +The toil of our navigation was incessant, and oftentimes extreme; and in +our progress over land, we had no protection from the severity of the +elements, and possessed no accommodations or conveniences but such as +could be contained in the burden on our shoulders, which aggravated the +toils of our march, and added to the wearisomeness of our way. + +Though the events which compose my journals may have little in +themselves to strike the imagination of those who love to be astonished, +or to gratify the curiosity of such as are enamoured of romantic +adventures; nevertheless, when it is considered, that I explored those +waters which had never before borne any other vessel than the canoe of +the savage; and traversed those deserts where an European had never +before presented himself to the eye of its swarthy natives; when to +these considerations are added the important objects which were pursued, +with the dangers that were encountered, and the difficulties that were +surmounted to attain them, this work will, I flatter myself, be found to +excite an interest, and conciliate regard, in the minds of those who +peruse it. + +The general map which illustrates this volume, is reduced by +Mr. Arrowsmith from his three-sheet map of North America, with the +latest discoveries, which he is about to republish. His professional +abilities are well known, and no encomium of mine will advance the +general and merited opinion of them. + +Before I conclude, I must beg leave to inform my readers, that they are +not to expect the charms of embellished narrative, or animated +description; the approbation due to simplicity and to truth, is all I +presume to claim; and I am not without the hope that this claim will be +allowed me. I have described whatever I saw with the impressions of the +moment which presented it to me. The successive circumstances of my +progress are related without exaggeration or display. I have seldom +allowed myself to wander into conjecture; and whenever conjecture has +been indulged, it will be found, I trust, to be accompanied with the +temper of a man who is not disposed to think too highly of himself: and +if, at any time, I have delivered myself with confidence, it will +appear, I hope, to be on those subjects, which, from the habits and +experience of my life, will justify an unreserved communication of my +opinions. I am not a candidate for literary fame; at the same time, I +cannot but indulge the hope that this volume, with all its +imperfections, will not be thought unworthy the attention of the +scientific geographer; and that, by unfolding countries hitherto +unexplored, and which, I presume, may now be considered as a part of the +British dominions, it will be received as a faithful tribute to the +prosperity of my country. + +ALEXANDER MACKENZIE. + +London, +November 30, 1801. + + + + +Table of Contents. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Embarked at Fort Chepewyan, on the Lake of the + Hills, in company with M. Le Roux. Account + of the party, provisions, etc. Direction of the + course. Enter one of the branches of the Lake. + Arrive in the Peace River. Appearance of the + land. Navigation of the river. Arrive at the + mouth of the Dog River. Successive description + of several carrying places. A canoe lost in one of + the Falls. Encamp on Point de Roche. Course + continued. Set the nets, etc. Arrive at the Slave + Lake. The weather extremely cold. Banks of + the river described, with its trees, soil, etc. + Account of the animal productions, and the fishery + of the Lake. Obliged to wait till the moving of + the ice. Three families of Indians arrive from + Athabasca, Beavers, geese, and swans killed. + The nets endangered by ice. Re-embark and land + on a small island. Course continued along the + shores, and across the bays of the Lake. Various + successes of the hunters. Steer for an island where + there was plenty of cranberries and small onions. + Kill several reindeer. Land on an island named + Isle a la Cache. Clouds of mosquitoes. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Landed at some lodges of Red-Knife Indians: procure + one of them to assist in navigating the bays + Conference with the Indians. Take leave of M. + Le Roux, and continue the voyage. Different + appearances of the land; its vegetable produce. + Visit an island where the wood had been felled. + Further description of the coast. Plenty of rein + and moose-deer, and white partridges. Enter a + very deep bay. Interrupted by ice. Very blowing + weather, Continue to cross the bay. Arrive + at the mouth of a river. Great numbers of fish + and wild-fowl. Description of the land on either + side. Curious appearance of woods that had been + burned. Came in sight of the Horn Mountain. + Continue to kill geese and swans, etc. Violent + storm. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Continued our course. The river narrows. Lost + the lead. Passed a small river. Violent rain. + Land on a small island. Expect to arrive at the + rapid. Conceal two bags of pemmican in an island. + A view of mountains. Pass several encampments + of the natives. Arrive among the islands. + Ascend a high hill. Violence of the current. + Ice seen along the banks of the river. + Land at village of the natives. Their conduct + and appearance. Their fabulous stories. The + English chief and Indians discontented. Obtain + a new guide. Singular customs of the natives. + An account of their dances. Description of their + persons, dress, ornaments, buildings, arms for war + and hunting, canoes, etc. Passed on among islands. + Encamped beneath a hill, and prevented + from ascending by the mosquitoes. Landed at an + encampment. Conduct of the inhabitants. They + abound in fabulous accounts of dangers. Land + at other encampments. Procure plenty of hares + and partridges. Our guide anxious to return. + Land and alarm the natives, called the Hare Indians, + etc. Exchange our guide. State of the weather. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +The new guide makes his escape. Compel another + to supply his place. Land at an encampment of + another tribe of Indians. Account of their manners, + dress, weapons, etc. Traffic with them. + Description of a beautiful fish. Engage another + guide. His curious behaviour. Kill a fox and + ground-hog. Land at an encampment of a tribe + called the Deguthee Denees, or Quarrellers. Saw + flax growing wild. The varying character of the + river and its banks. Distant mountains. Perplexity + from the numerous channels of the river. + Determined to proceed. Land where there had + been an encampment of the Esquimaux. Saw + large flocks of wild-fowl. View of the sun at + midnight. Description of a place lately deserted + by the Indians. Houses of the natives described. + Frequent showers. Saw a black fox. The discontents + of our hunters renewed, and pacified. + Face of the country. Land at a spot lately inhabited. + Peculiar circumstances of it. Arrive at the + entrance of the lake. Proceed to an island. Some + account of it. + + +CHAPTER V. + +The baggage removed from the rising of the water. + One of the nets driven away by the wind and + current. Whales are seen. Go in pursuit of them, + but prevented from continuing it by the + fog. Proceed to take a view of the ice. Canoe + in danger from the swell. Examine the islands. + Describe one of them. Erect a post to perpetuate + our visit there. The rising of the water appears + to be the tide. Successful fishing. Uncertain + weather. Sail among the islands. Proceed to a + river. Temperature of the air improves. Land + on a small island, which is a place of sepulture. + Description of it. See a great number of wild fowl. + Fine view of the river from the high land. + The hunters kill reindeer. Cranberries, etc., found + in great plenty. The appearance and state of the + country. Our guide deserts. Large flight of + geese; kill many of them. Violent rain. Return + up the river. Leave the channels for the main + stream. Obliged to tow the canoe. Land among + the natives. Circumstances concerning them. + Their account of the Esquimaux Indians. + Accompany the natives to their huts. Account + of our provisions. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Employ the towing line. Description of a place + where the Indians come to collect flint. Their + shyness and suspicions. Current lessons. Appearance + of the country. Abundance of hares. + Violent storm. Land near three lodges. Alarm + of the Indians. Supply of fish from them. Their + fabulous accounts. Continue to see Indian lodges. + Treatment of a disease. Misunderstanding with + the natives. The interpreter harangues them. + Their accounts similar to those we have already + received. Their curious conduct. Purchase some + beaver skins. Shoot one of their dogs. The + consequence of that act. Apprehensions of the women. + Large quantities of liquorice. Swallows' nests + seen in the precipices. Fall in with a party of the + natives killing geese. Circumstances concerning + them. Hurricane. Variation of the weather. + Kill great numbers of geese. Abundance of several + kinds of berries. State of the river and its + bank. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Voyage continued. Suspect the integrity of the + interpreter. Stars visible. Springs of mineral + water, and lumps of iron ore. Arrive at the river + of the Bear Lake. Coal mine in a state of combustion. + Water of the river diminished, Continue + to see Indian encampments, and kill geese, + etc. Hunting excursions. A canoe found on the + edge of the wood. Attempt to ascend a mountain. + Account of the passage to it. See a few of + the natives. Kill a beaver and some hares. Design + of the English chief. Kill a wolf. Changeable + state of the weather. Recover the pemmican, + which had been hidden in an island. Natives fly + at our approach. Meet with dogs. Altercation + with the English chief. Account of the articles + left by the fugitives. Shoals of the river covered + with saline matter. Encamp at the mouth of the + river of the mountain. The ground on fire on + each side of it. Continue to see encampments of + the natives. Various kinds of berries. Kill geese, + swans, etc., etc., etc. Corroding quality of the + water. Weather changeable. Reach the entrance + of the Slave Lake. Dangers encountered on entering + it. Caught pike and trout. Met M. Le Roux + on the lake. Further circumstances till our + return to Fort Chepewyan. Conclusion of the voyage. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Leave Fort Chepewyan. Proceed to the Peace + River. State of the Lakes. Arrive at Peace + Point. The reason assigned for its name. The + weather cold. Arrive at the Falls. Description + of the country. Land at the Fort, called The Old + Establishment. The principal building destroyed + by fire. Course of the river. Arrive at another + fort. Some account of the natives. Depart from + thence. Course of the river continued, It divides + into two branches. Proceed along the principal + one. Land at the place of our winter's residence. + Account of its circumstances and inhabitants, etc. + Preparations for erecting a fort, etc., etc. Table + of the weather. Broke the thermometer. Frost + sets in. Description of birds. + + + + +A GENERAL HISTORY OF THE FUR TRADE +FROM CANADA TO THE NORTH-WEST. + + +The fur trade, from the earliest settlement of Canada, was considered of +the first importance to that colony. The country was then so populous, +that, in the vicinity of the establishments, the animals whose skins +were precious, in a commercial view, soon became very scarce, if not +altogether extinct. They were, it is true, hunted at former periods, +but merely for food and clothing. The Indians, therefore, to procure +the necessary supply, were encouraged, to penetrate into the country, +and were generally accompanied by some of the Canadians, who found means +to induce the remotest tribes of natives to bring the skins which were +most in demand, to their settlements, in the way of trade. + +It is not necessary for me to examine the cause, but experience proves +that it requires much less time for a civilized people to deviate into +the manners and customs of savage life, than for savages to rise into a +state of civilization. Such was the event with those who thus +accompanied the natives on their hunting and trading excursions; for +they became so attached to the Indian mode of life, that they lost all +relish for their former habits and native homes. Hence they derived the +title of _Coureurs des Bois_, became a kind of pedlars, and were +extremely useful to the merchants engaged in the fur trade; who gave +them the necessary credit to proceed on their commercial undertakings. +Three or four of these people would join their stock, put their property +into a birch-bark canoe, which they worked themselves, and either +accompanied the natives in their excursions, or went at once to the +country where they knew they were to hunt. At length, these voyages +extended to twelve or fifteen months, when they returned with rich +cargoes of furs, and followed by great numbers of the natives. During +the short time requisite to settle their accounts with the merchants, +and procure fresh credit, they generally contrived to squander away all +their gains, when they returned to renew their favourite mode of life: +their views being answered, and their labour sufficiently rewarded, by +indulging themselves in extravagance and dissipation, during the short +space of one month in twelve or fifteen. + +This indifference about amassing property, and the pleasure of living +free from all restraint, soon brought on a licentiousness of manners +which could not long escape the vigilant observation of the +missionaries, who had much reason to complain of their being a disgrace +to the Christian religion; by not only swerving from its duties +themselves, but by thus bringing it into disrepute with those of the +natives who had become converts to it; and, consequently, obstructing +the great object to which those pious men had devoted their lives. They +therefore exerted their influence to procure the suppression of these +people, and accordingly, no one was allowed to go up the country to +traffic with the Indians, without a license from the government. + +At first these permissions were, of course, granted only to those whose +character was such as could give no alarm to the zeal of the +missionaries: but they were afterwards bestowed as rewards for services, +on officers, and their widows; and they, who were not willing or able to +make use of them (which may be supposed to be always the case with those +of the latter description), were allowed to sell them to the merchants, +who necessarily employed the Coureurs des bois, in quality of their +agents; and these people, as may be imagined, gave sufficient cause for +the renewal of former complaints; so that the remedy proved, in fact, +worse than the disease. + +At length, military posts were established at the confluence of the +different large lakes of Canada, which, in a great measure checked the +evil consequences that followed from the improper conduct of these +foresters, and, at the same time, protected the trade. Besides, a +number of able and respectable men, retired from the army, prosecuted +the trade in person, under their respective licences, with great order +and regularity, and extended it to such a distance, as, in those days, +was considered to be an astonishing effort of commercial enterprize. +These persons and the missionaries having combined their views at the +same time, secured the respect of the natives, and the obedience of the +people necessarily employed in the laborious parts of this undertaking. +These gentlemen denominated themselves commanders, and not traders, +though they were entitled to both those characters: and, as for the +missionaries, if sufferings and hardships in the prosecution of the +great work which they had undertaken, deserved applause and admiration, +they had an undoubted claim to be admired and applauded: they spared no +labour and avoided no danger in the execution of their important office; +and it is to be seriously lamented, that their pious endeavours did not +meet with the success which they deserved: for there is hardly a trace +to be found beyond the cultivated parts, of their meritorious functions. + +The cause of this failure must be attributed to a want of due +consideration in the mode employed by the missionaries, to propagate the +religion of which they were the zealous ministers. They habituated +themselves to the savage life, and naturalized themselves to the savage +manners, and, by thus becoming dependent, as it were, on the natives, +they acquired their contempt rather than their veneration. If they had +been as well acquainted with human nature, as they were with the +articles of their faith, they would have known that the uncultivated +mind of an Indian must be disposed by much preparatory method and +instruction to receive the revealed truths of Christianity, to act under +its sanctions, and be impelled to good by the hope of its reward, or +turned from evil by the fear of its punishments. They should have begun +their work by teaching some of those useful arts which are the inlets of +knowledge, and lead the mind by degrees to objects of higher +comprehension. Agriculture, so formed to fix and combine society, and +so preparatory to objects of superior consideration, should have been +the first thing introduced among a savage people: it attaches the +wandering tribe to that spot where it adds so much to their comforts; +while it gives them a sense of property, and of lasting possession, +instead of the uncertain hopes of the chase, and the fugitive produce of +uncultivated wilds. Such were the means by which the forests of +Paraguay were converted into a scene of abundant cultivation, and its +savage inhabitants introduced to all the advantages of a civilized life. + +The Canadian missionaries should have been contented to improve the +morals of their own countrymen, so that by meliorating their character +and conduct, they would have given a striking example of the effect of +religion in promoting the comforts of life to the surrounding savages; +and might by degrees have extended its benign influence to the remotest +regions of that country, which was the object, and intended to be the +scene, of their evangelical labours. But by bearing the light of the +Gospel at once to the distance of two thousand five hundred miles from +the civilized part of the colonies, it was soon obscured by the cloud of +ignorance that darkened the human mind in those distant regions. + +The whole of their long route I have often travelled, and the +recollection of such a people as the missionaries having been there, was +confined to a few superannuated Canadians, who had not left that country +since the cession to the English, in 1763, and who particularly +mentioned the death of some, and the distressing situation of them all. +But if these religious men did not attain the objects of their +persevering piety, they were, during their mission, of great service to +the commanders who engaged in those distant expeditions, and spread the +fur trade as far West as the banks of the Saskatchiwine river, in +53. North latitude, and longitude 102. West. + + At an early period of their intercourse with the savages, a custom was +introduced of a very excellent tendency, but is now unfortunately +discontinued, of not selling any spirituous liquor to the natives. This +admirable regulation was for some time observed, with all the respect +due to the religion by which it was sanctioned, and whose severest +censures followed the violation of it. A painful penance could alone +restore the offender to the suspended rites of the sacrament. The +casuistry of trade, however, discovered a way to gratify the Indians +with their favourite cordial without incurring the ecclesiastical +penalties, by giving, instead of selling it to them. + +But notwithstanding all the restrictions with which commerce was +oppressed under the French government, the fur trade was extended to the +immense distance which has been already stated; and surmounted many most +discouraging difficulties, which will be hereafter noticed; while, at +the same time, no exertions were made from Hudson's Bay to obtain even a +share of the trade of a country, which according to the charter of that +company, belonged to it, and, from its proximity, is so much more +accessible to the mercantile adventurer. + +Of these trading commanders, I understood, that two attempted to +penetrate to the Pacific Ocean, but the utmost extent of their journey I +could never learn; which may be attributed, indeed, to a failure of the +undertaking. + +For some time after the conquest of Canada, this trade was suspended, +which must have been very advantageous to the Hudson's-Bay Company, as +all the inhabitants to the westward of Lake Superior were obliged to go +to them for such articles as their habitual use had rendered necessary. +Some of the Canadians who had lived long with them, and were become +attached to a savage life, accompanied them thither annually, till +mercantile adventurers again appeared from their own country, after an +interval of several years, owing, as I suppose, to an ignorance of the +country in the conquerors, and their want of commercial confidence in +the conquered. There were, indeed, other discouragements, such as the +immense length of the journey necessary to reach the limits beyond which +this commerce must begin; the risk of property; the expenses attending +such a long transport; and an ignorance of the language of those who, +from their experience, must be necessarily employed as the intermediate +agents between them and the natives. But, notwithstanding these +difficulties, the trade, by degrees, began to spread over the different +parts to which it had been carried by the French, though at a great risk +of the lives, as well as the property of their new possessors, for the +natives had been taught by their former allies to entertain hostile +dispositions towards the English, from their having been in alliance +with their natural enemies the Iroquois; and there were not wanting a +sufficient number of discontented, disappointed people, to keep alive +such a notion; so that for a long time they were considered and treated +as objects of hostility. To prove this disposition of the Indians, we +have only to refer to the conduct of Pontiac, at Detroit, and the +surprise and taking of Michilimakinac, about this period. + +Hence it arose, that it was so late as the year 1766, before which, the +trade I mean to consider, commenced from Michilimakinac. The first who +attempted it were satisfied to go the length of the river Camenistiquia, +about thirty miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, where the +French had a principal establishment, and was the line of their +communication with the interior country. It was once destroyed by fire. +Here they went and returned successful in the following spring to +Michilimakinac. Their success induced them to renew their journey, and +incited others to follow their example. Some of them remained at +Camenistiquia, while others proceeded to and beyond the Grande Portage, +which, since that time has become the principal entrepot of that trade, +and is situated in a bay, in latitude 48. North, and longitude 90. West. +After passing the usual season there, they went back to Michilimakinac +as before, and encouraged by the trade, returned in increased numbers. +One of these, Thomas Curry, with a spirit of enterprize superior to that +of his contemporaries, determined to penetrate to the furthest limits of +the French discoveries in that country; or at least till the frost +should stop him. For this purpose he procured guides and interpreters, +who were acquainted with the country, and with four canoes arrived at +Fort Bourbon, which was one of their posts, at the West end of the Cedar +Lake, on the waters of the Saskatchiwine. His risk and toil were well +recompensed, for he came back the following spring with his canoes +filled with fine furs, with which he proceeded to Canada, and was +satisfied never again to return to the Indian country. + +From this period, people began to spread over every part of the country, +particularly where the French had established settlements. + +Mr. James Finlay was the first who followed Mr. Curry's example, and +with the same number of canoes, arrived, in the course of the next +season, at Nipawee, the last of the French settlements on the bank of +the Saskatchiwine river, in latitude nearly 43-1/2. North, and longitude +103. West: he found the good fortune, as he followed, in every respect, +the example, of his predecessor. + +As may be supposed, there were now people enough ready to replace them, +and the trade was pursued with such avidity, and irregularity, that in a +few years it became the reverse of what it ought to have been. An +animated competition prevailed, and the contending parties carried the +trade beyond the French limits, though with no benefit to themselves or +neighbours, the Hudson's-Bay Company; who in the year 1774, and not till +then, thought proper to move from home to the East bank of Sturgeon +Lake, in latitude 53. 56. North, and longitude 102. 15. West, and became +more jealous of their fellow subjects; and, perhaps, with more cause, +than they had been of those of France. From this period, to the present +time, they have been following the Canadians to their different +establishments, while, on the contrary, there is not a solitary instance +that the Canadians have followed them; and there are many trading posts +which they have not yet attained. This, however, will no longer be a +mystery, when the nature and policy of the Hudson's-Bay Company is +compared with that, which has been pursued by their rivals in this +trade.--But to return to my subject. + +This competition, which has been already mentioned, gave a fatal blow to +the trade from Canada, and, with other incidental causes, in my opinion, +contributed to its ruin. This trade was carried on in a very distant +country, out of the reach of legal restraint, and where there was a free +scope given to any ways or means in attaining advantage. The +consequence was not only the loss of commercial benefit to the persons +engaged in it, but of the good opinion of the natives, and the respect +of their men, who were inclined to follow their example; so that with +drinking, carousing, and quarrelling with the Indians along their route, +and among themselves, they seldom reached their winter quarters; and if +they did, it was generally by dragging their property upon sledges, as +the navigation was closed up by the frost. When at length they were +arrived, the object of each was to injure his rival traders in the +opinion of the natives as much as was in their power, by +misrepresentation and presents, for which the agents employed were +peculiarly calculated. They considered the command of their employer as +binding on them, and however wrong or irregular the transaction, the +responsibility rested with the principal who directed them. This is +Indian law. Thus did they waste their credit and their property with +the natives, till the first was past redemption, and the last was nearly +exhausted; so that towards the spring in each year, the rival parties +found it absolutely necessary to join, and make one common stock of what +remained, for the purpose of trading with the natives, who could +entertain no respect for persons who had conducted themselves with so +much irregularity and deceit. The winter, therefore, was one continued +scene of disagreements and quarrels, If any one had the precaution or +good sense to keep clear of these proceedings, he derived a +proportionable advantage from his good conduct, and frequently proved a +peacemaker between the parties. To such an height had they carried this +licentious conduct, that they were in a continual state of alarm, and +were even frequently stopped to pay tribute on their route into the +country; though they had adopted the plan of travelling together in +parties of thirty or forty canoes, and keeping their men armed; which +sometimes, indeed, proved necessary for their defence. + +Thus was the trade carried on for several years, and consequently +becoming worse and worse, so that the partners, who met them at the +Grande Portage, naturally complained of their ill success. But specious +reasons were always ready to prove that it arose from circumstances +which they could not at that time control; and encouragements were held +forth to hope that a change would soon take place, which would make +ample amends for past disappointments. + +It was about this time, that Mr. Joseph Frobisher, one of the gentlemen +engaged in the trade, determined to penetrate into the country yet +unexplored, to the North and Westward, and, in the spring of the year +1775, met the Indians from that quarter on their way to Fort Churchill, +at Portage de Traite, so named from that circumstance, on the banks of +the Missinipi, or Churchill river, latitude 55. 25. North, longitude +103-1/2. West. It was indeed, with some difficulty that he could induce +them to trade with him, but he at length procured as many furs as his +canoes could carry. In this perilous expedition he sustained every kind +of hardship incident to a journey through a wild and savage country, +where his subsistence depended on what the woods and the waters +produced. These difficulties, nevertheless, did not discourage him from +returning in the following year, when he was equally successful. He +then sent his brother to explore the country still further West, who +penetrated as far as the lake of Isle a la Crosse, in latitude +55. 26. North, and longitude 108. West. + +He, however, never after wintered among the Indians, though he retained +a large interest in the trade, and a principal share in the direction of +it till the year 1798, when he retired to enjoy the fruits of his +labours; and, by his hospitality, became known to every respectable +stranger who visited Canada. + +The success of this gentleman induced others to follow his example, and +in the spring of the year 1778, some of the traders on the Saskatchiwine +river, finding they had a quantity of goods to spare, agreed to put them +into a joint stock, and gave the charge and management of them to +Mr. Peter Pond, who, in four canoes, was directed to enter the English +River, so called by Mr. Frobisher, to follow his track, and proceed +still further; if possible, to Athabasca, a country hitherto unknown but +from Indian report. In this enterprise he at length succeeded and +pitched his tent on the banks of the Elk river, by him erroneously +called the Athabasca river, about forty miles from the Lake of the +Hills, into which it empties itself. + +Here he passed the winter of 1778-9; saw a vast concourse of the +Knisteneaux and Chepewyan tribes, who used to carry their furs annually +to Churchill; the latter by the barren grounds, where they suffered +innumerable hardships, and were sometimes even starved to death. The +former followed the course of the lakes and rivers, through a country +that abounded in animals, and where there was plenty of fish: but though +they did not suffer from want of food, the intolerable fatigue of such a +journey could not be easily repaid to an Indian: they were, therefore, +highly gratified by seeing people come to their country to relieve them +from such long, toilsome, and dangerous journeys; and were immediately +reconciled to give an advanced price for the articles necessary to their +comfort and convenience. Mr. Pond's reception and success was +accordingly beyond his expectation; and he procured twice as many furs +as his canoes would carry. They also supplied him with as much +provision as he required during his residence among them, and sufficient +for his homeward voyage. Such of the furs as he could not embark, he +secured in one of his winter huts, and they were found the following +season, in the same state in which he left them. + +These, however, were but partial advantages, and could not prevent the +people of Canada from seeing the improper conduct of some of their +associates, which rendered it dangerous to remain any longer among the +natives. Most of them who passed the winter at the Saskatchiwine, got +to the Eagle hills, where, in the spring of the year 1780, a few days +previous to their intended departure, a large band of Indians being +engaged in drinking about their houses, one of the traders, to ease +himself of the troublesome importunities of a native, gave him a dose of +laudanum in a glass of grog, which effectually prevented him from giving +further trouble to any one, by setting him asleep for ever. This +accident produced a fray, in which one of the traders, and several of +the men were killed, while the rest had no other means to save +themselves but by a precipitate flight, abandoning a considerable +quantity of goods, and near half the furs which they had collected +during the winter and the spring. + +About the same time, two of the establishments on the Assiniboin river, +were attacked with less justice, when several white men, and a great +number of Indians were killed. In short, it appeared, that the natives +had formed a resolution to extirpate the traders; and, without entering +into any further reasonings on the subject, it appears to be +incontrovertible, that the irregularity pursued in carrying on the trade +has brought it into its present forlorn situation; and nothing but the +greatest calamity that could have befallen the natives, saved the +traders from destruction: this was the small-pox, which spread its +destructive and desolating power, as the fire consumes the dry grass of +the field. The fatal infection spread around with a baneful rapidity +which no flight could escape, and with a fatal effect that nothing could +resist. It destroyed with its pestilential breath whole families and +tribes; and the horrid scene presented to those who had the melancholy +and afflicting opportunity of beholding it, a combination of the dead, +the dying, and such as to avoid the horrid fate of their friends around +them, prepared to disappoint the plague of its prey, by terminating their +own existence. + +The habits and lives of these devoted people, which provided not to-day +for the wants of to-morrow, must have heightened the pains of such an +affliction, by leaving them not only without remedy, but even without +alleviation. Naught was left them but to submit in agony and despair. + +To aggravate the picture, if aggravation were possible, may be added, +the putrid carcases which the wolves, with a furious voracity, dragged +forth from the huts, or which were mangled within them by the dogs, +whose hunger was satisfied with the disfigured remains of their masters. +Nor was it uncommon for the father of a family, whom the infection had +not reached, to call them around him to represent the cruel sufferings +and horrid fate of their relations, from the influence of some evil +spirit who was preparing to extirpate their race; and to incite them to +baffle death, with all its horrors, by their own poniards. At the same +time, if their hearts failed them in this necessary act, he was himself +ready to perform the deed of mercy with his own hand, as the last act of +his affection, and instantly to follow them to the common place of rest +and refuge from human evil. + +It was never satisfactorily ascertained by what means this malignant +disorder was introduced, but it was generally supposed to be from the +Missisouri, by a war party. + +The consequence of this melancholy event to the traders must be +self-evident; the means of disposing of their goods were cut off; and no +furs were obtained, but such as had been gathered from the habitations +of the deceased Indians, which could not be very considerable: nor did +they look from the losses of the present year, with any encouraging +expectations to those which were to come. The only fortunate people +consisted of a party who had again penetrated to the Northward and +Westward in 1780, at some distance up the Missinipi, or English river, +to Lake la Ronge. Two unfortunate circumstances, however, happened to +them; which are as follow: + +Mr. Wadin, a Swiss gentleman, of strict probity and known sobriety, had +gone there in the year 1779, and remained during the summer of 1780. +His partners and others, engaged in an opposite interest, when at the +Grande Portage, agreed to send a quantity of goods on their joint +account, which was accepted, and Mr. Pond was proposed by them to be +their representative to act in conjunction with Mr. Wadin. Two men, of +more opposite characters, could not, perhaps, have been found. In +short, from various causes, their situations became very uncomfortable +to each other, and mutual ill-will was the natural consequence: without +entering, therefore, into a minute history of these transactions, it +will be sufficient to observe, that, about the end of the year 1780, or +the beginning of 1781, Mr. Wadin had received Mr. Pond and one of his +own clerks to dinner; and, in the course of the night, the former was +shot through the lower part of the thigh, when it was said that he +expired from the loss of blood, and was buried next morning at eight +o'clock. Mr. Pond, and the clerk, were tried for this murder at +Montreal, and acquitted: nevertheless, their innocence was not so +apparent as to extinguish the original suspicion. + +The other circumstance was this. In the spring of the year, Mr. Pond +sent the abovementioned clerk to meet the Indians from the Northward, +who used to go annually to Hudson's Bay; when he easily persuaded them +to trade with him, and return back, that they might not take the +contagion which had depopulated the country to the Eastward of them: but +most unfortunately they caught it here, and carried it with them, to the +destruction of themselves and the neighbouring tribes. + +The country being thus depopulated, the traders and their friends from +Canada, who, from various causes already mentioned, were very much +reduced in number, became confined to two parties, who began seriously +to think of making permanent establishments on the Missinipi river, and +at Athabasca; for which purpose, in 1781-2, they selected their best +canoe-men, being ignorant that the small-pox penetrated that way. The +most expeditious party got only in time to the Portage la Loche, or +Mithy-Ouinigam, which divides the waters of the Missinipi from those +that fall into the Elk river, to despatch one canoe strong-handed, and +light-loaded, to that country; but, on their arrival there, they found, +in every direction, the ravages of the small-pox; so that, from the +great diminution of the natives, they returned in the spring with no +more than seven packages of beaver. The strong woods and mountainous +countries afforded a refuge to those who fled from the contagion of the +plains; but they were so alarmed at the surrounding destruction, that +they avoided the traders, and were dispirited from hunting, except for +their subsistence. The traders, however, who returned into the country +in the year 1782-3, found the inhabitants in some sort of tranquillity, +and more numerous than they had reason to expect, so that their success +was proportionably better. + +During the winter of 1783-4, the merchants of Canada, engaged in this +trade, formed a junction of interests, under the name of the North-West +Company, and divided it into sixteen shares, without depositing any +capital; each party furnishing a proportion or quota of such articles as +were necessary to carry on the trade: the respective parties agreeing to +satisfy the friends they had in the country, who were not provided for, +according to this agreement, out of the proportions which they held. +The management of the whole was accordingly entrusted to +Messrs. Benjamin and Joseph Frobisher, and Mr. Simon M'Tavish, two +distinct houses, who had the greatest interest and influence in the +country, and for which they were to receive a stipulated commission in +all transactions. + +In the spring, two of those gentlemen went to the Grande Portage with +their credentials, which were confirmed and ratified by all the parties +having an option, except Mr. Peter Pond, who was not satisfied with the +share allotted him. Accordingly he, and another gentleman, Mr. Peter +Pangman, who had a right to be a partner, but for whom no provision had +been made, came to Canada, with a determination to return to the +country, if they could find any persons to join them, and give their +scheme a proper support. + +The traders in the country, and merchants at Montreal, thus entered into +a co-partnership, which, by these means, was consolidated and directed +by able men, who, from the powers with which they were entrusted, would +carry on the trade to the utmost extent it would bear. The traders in +the country, therefore, having every reason to expect that their past +and future labours would be recompensed, forgot all their former +animosities, and engaged with the utmost spirit and activity, to forward +the general interest; so that, in the following year, they met their +agents at the Grande Portage, with their canoes laden with rich furs +from the different parts of that immense tract of country. But this +satisfaction was not to be enjoyed without some interruption; and they +were mortified to find that Mr. Pangman had prevailed on Messrs. Gregory +and Macleod to join him, and give him their support in the business, +though deserted by Mr. Pond, who accepted the terms offered by his +former associates. + +In the counting-house of Mr. Gregory I had been five years; and at this +period had left him, with a small adventure of goods, with which he had +entrusted me, to seek my fortune at Detroit. He, without any +solicitation on my part, had procured an insertion in the agreement, +that I should be admitted a partner in this business, on condition that +I would proceed to the Indian country in the following spring, 1785. +His partner came to Detroit to make me such a proposition. I readily +assented to it, and immediately proceeded to the Grande Portage, where I +joined my associates. + +We now found that independent of the natural difficulties of the +undertaking, we should have to encounter every other which they, who +were already in possession of the trade of the country, could throw in +our way, and which their circumstances enabled them to do. Nor did they +doubt, from their own superior experience, as well as that of their +clerks and men, with their local knowledge of the country and its +inhabitants, that they should soon compel us to leave the country to +them. The event, however, did not justify their expectations; for, +after the severest struggle ever known in that part of the world, and +suffering every oppression which a jealous and rival spirit could +instigate; after the murder of one of our partners, the laming of +another, and the narrow escape of one of our clerks, who received a +bullet through his powder horn, in the execution of his duty, they were +compelled to allow us a share of the trade. As we had already incurred +a loss, this union was, in every respect, a desirable event to us, and +was concluded in the month of July, 1787. + +This commercial establishment was now founded on a more solid basis than +any hitherto known in the country; and it not only continued in full +force, vigour, and prosperity, in spite of all interference from Canada, +but maintained at least an equal share of advantage with the +Hudson's-Bay Company, notwithstanding the superiority of their local +situation. The following account of this self-erected concern will +manifest the cause of its success. + +It assumed the title of the North-West Company, and was no more than an +association of commercial men, agreeing among themselves to carry on the +fur trade, unconnected with any other business, though many of the +parties engaged had extensive concerns altogether foreign to it. It may +be said to have been supported entirely upon credit; for, whether the +capital belonged to the proprietor, or was borrowed, it equally bore +interest, for which the association was annually accountable. It +consisted of twenty shares, unequally divided among the persons +concerned. Of these, a certain proportion was held by the people who +managed the business in Canada, and were styled agents for the Company. +Their duty was to import the necessary goods from England, store them at +their own expense at Montreal, get them made up into articles suited to +the trade, pack and forward them, and supply the cash that might be +wanting for the outfits, for which they received, independent of the +profit on their shares, a commission on the amount of the accounts, +which they were obliged to make out annually, and keep the adventure of +each year distinct. Two of them went annually to the Grande Portage, to +manage and transact the business there, and on the communication at +Detroit, Michilimakinac, St. Mary's, and at Montreal, where they +received, stored, packed up, and shipped the company's furs for England, +on which they had also a small commission. The remaining shares were +held by the proprietors, who were obliged to winter and manage the +business of the concern with the Indians, and their respective clerks, +etc. They were not supposed to be under any obligation to furnish +capital, or even credit. If they obtained any capital by the trade, it +was to remain in the hands of the agents; for which they were allowed +interest. Some of them, from their long services and influence, held +double shares, and were allowed to retire from the business at any +period of the existing concern, with one of those shares, naming any +young man in the company's service to succeed him in the other. +Seniority and merit were, however, considered as affording a claim to +the succession, which, nevertheless, could not be disposed of without +the concurrence of the majority of the concern; who, at the same time, +relieved the seceding person from any responsibility respecting the +share that he transferred, and accounted for it according to the annual +value or rate of the property; so that the seller could have no +advantage, but that of getting the share of stock which he retained +realised, and receiving for the transferred share what was fairly +determined to be the worth of it. The former was also discharged from +all duty, and became a dormant partner. Thus, all the young men who +were not provided for at the beginning of the contract, succeeded in +succession to the character and advantages of partners. They entered +into the Company's service for five or seven years, under such +expectations, and their reasonable prospects were seldom disappointed: +there were, indeed, instances when they succeeded to shares, before +their apprenticeship was expired, and it frequently happened, that they +were provided for while they were in a state of articled clerkship. +Shares were transferable only to the concern at large, as no person +could be admitted as a partner who had not served his time to the trade. +The dormant partner indeed might dispose of his interest to any one he +chose, but if the transaction was not acknowledged by his associates, +the purchaser could only be considered as his agent or attorney. Every +share had a vote, and two-thirds formed a majority. This regular and +equitable mode of providing for the clerks of the company, excited a +spirit of emulation in the discharge of their various duties, and in +fact, made every agent a principal, who perceived his own prosperity to +be immediately connected with that of his employers. Indeed, without +such a spirit, such a trade could not have become so extended and +advantageous, as it has been and now is. + +In 1788, the gross amount of the adventure for the year did not exceed +forty thousand pounds,[1] but by the exertion, enterprise, and industry +of the proprietors, it was brought, in eleven years, to triple that +amount and upwards; yielding proportionate profits, and surpassing, in +short, any thing known in America. + +Such, therefore, being the prosperous state of the company, it, very +naturally, tempted others to interfere with the concern in a manner by +no means beneficial to the company, and commonly ruinous to the +undertakers. + +In 1798 the concern underwent a new form, the shares were increased to +forty-six, new partners being admitted, and others retiring. This +period was the termination of the company, which was not renewed by all +the parties concerned in it, the majority continuing to act upon the old +stock, and under the old firm; the others beginning a new one; and it +now remains to be decided, whether two parties, under the same +regulations and by the same exertions, though unequal in number, can +continue to carry on the business to a successful issue. The contrary +opinion has been held, which if verified, will make it the interest of +the parties again to coalesce; for neither is deficient in capital to +support their obstinacy in a losing trade, as it is not to be supposed +that either will yield on any other terms than perpetual participation. + +It will not be superfluous in this place, to explain the general mode of +carrying on the fur trade. + +The agents are obliged to order the necessary goods from England in the +month of October, eighteen months before they can leave Montreal; that +is, they are not shipped from London until the spring following, when +they arrive in Canada in the summer. In the course of the following +winter they are made up into such articles as are required for the +savages; they are then packed into parcels of ninety pounds weight each, +but cannot be sent from Montreal until the May following; so that they +do not get to market until the ensuing winter, when they are exchanged +for furs, which come to Montreal the next fall, and from thence are +shipped, chiefly to London, where they are not sold or paid for before +the succeeding spring, or even as late as June; which is forty-two +months after the goods were ordered in Canada; thirty-six after they had +been shipped from England, and twenty-four after they had been forwarded +from Montreal; so that the merchant, allowing that he has twelve months' +credit, does not receive a return to pay for those goods, and the +necessary expenses attending them, which is about equal to the value of +the goods themselves, till two years after they are considered as cash, +which makes this a very heavy business. There is even a small +proportion of it that requires twelve months longer to bring round the +payment, going to, the immense distance it is carried, and from the +shortness of the seasons, which prevents the furs, even after they are +collected, from coming out of the country for that period.[2] + +The articles necessary for this trade, are coarse woollen cloths of +different kinds; milled blankets of different sizes; arms and +ammunition; twist and carrot tobacco; Manchester goods; linens, and +coarse sheetings; thread, lines, and twine; common hardware; cutlery and +ironmongery of several descriptions; kettles of brass and copper, and +sheet-iron; silk and cotton handkerchiefs, hats, shoes, and hose; +calicoes and printed cottons, etc., etc., etc. Spirituous liquors and +provisions are purchased in Canada. These, and the expense of transport +to and from the Indian country, including wages to clerks, interpreters, +guides, and canoe-men, with the expense of making up the goods for the +market, form about half the annual amount against the adventure. + +This expenditure in Canada ultimately tends to the encouragement of +British manufactory, for those who are employed in the different +branches of this business, are enabled by their gains to purchase such +British articles as they must otherwise forego. + +The produce of the year of which I am now speaking, consisted of the +following furs and peltries: + + 106,000 Beaver skins, 6,000 Lynx skins, + 2,100 Bear skins, 600 Wolverine skins, + 1,500 Fox skins, 1,650 Fisher skins, + 4,000 Kitt Fox skins 100 Rackoon skins, + 4,600 Otter skins, 8,800 Wolf skins, + 17,000 Musquash skins, 700 Elk skins, + 32,000 Marten skins, 750 Deer skins, + 1,800 Mink skins, 1,200 Deer skins dressed, + 500 Buffalo robes, and quantity of castorum. + +Of these were diverted from the British market, being sent through the +United States to China, 13,364 skins, fine beaver, weighing 19,283 +pounds; 1,250 fine otters, and 1,724 kitt foxes. They would have found +their way to the China market at any rate, but this deviation from the +British channel arose from the following circumstance: + +An adventure of this kind was undertaken by a respectable house in +London, half concerned with the North-West Company, in the year 1792. +The furs were of the best kind, and suitable to the market; and the +adventurers continued this connexion for five successive years, to the +annual amount of forty thousand pounds. At the winding up of the +concern of 1792, 1793, 1794, 1795, in the year 1797 (the adventure of +1796 not being included, as the furs were not sent to China, but +disposed of in London), the North-West Company experienced a loss of +upwards of L40,000 (their half), which was principally owing to +the difficulty of getting home the produce procured in return for the +furs from China, in the East India Company's ships, together with the +duty payable, and the various restrictions of that company. Whereas, +from America there are no impediments; they get immediately to market, +and the produce of them is brought back, and perhaps sold in the course +of twelve months. From such advantages, the furs of Canada will no +doubt find their way to China by America, which would not be the case if +British subjects had the same privileges that are allowed to foreigners, +as London would then be found the best and safest market. + +But to return to our principal subject. We shall now proceed to +consider the number of men employed in the concern: viz., fifty clerks, +seventy-one interpreters and clerks, one thousand one hundred and twenty +canoe-men, and thirty-five guides. Of these, five clerks, eighteen +guides, and three hundred and fifty canoe-men, were employed for the +summer season in going from Montreal to the Grande Portage, in canoes, +part of whom proceeded from thence to Rainy Lake, as will be hereafter +explained, and are called Pork-eaters, or Goers and Comers. These were +hired in Canada or Montreal, and were absent from the 1st of May till +the latter end of September. For this trip the guides had from eight +hundred to a thousand livres, and, a suitable equipment; the foreman and +steersman from four to six hundred livres; the middle-men from two +hundred and fifty to three hundred and fifty livres, with an equipment +of one blanket, one shirt, and one pair of trowsers; and were maintained +during that period at the expense of their employers. Independent of +their wages, they were allowed to traffic, and many of them earned to +the amount of their wages. About one-third of these went to winter, and +had more than double the above wages and equipment. All the winterers +were hired by the year, and sometimes for three years; and of the clerks +many were apprentices, who were generally engaged for five or seven +years, for which they had only one hundred pounds, provision and +clothing. Such of them who could not be provided for as partners, at +the expiration of this time, were allowed from one hundred pounds to +three hundred pounds per annum, with all necessaries, till provision was +made for them. Those who acted in the two-fold capacity of clerk and +interpreter, or were so denominated, had no other expectation than the +payment of wages to the amount of from one thousand to four thousand +livres per annum, with clothing and provisions. The guides, who are a +very useful set of men, acted also in the additional capacity of +interpreters, and had a stated quantity of goods, considered as +sufficient for their wants, their wages being from one to three thousand +livres. The canoe-men are of two descriptions, foremen and steersmen, +and middlemen. The two first were allowed annually one thousand two +hundred, and the latter eight hundred, livres each. The first class had +what is called an equipment, consisting of two blankets, two shirts, two +pair of trowsers, two handkerchiefs, fourteen pounds of carrot tobacco, +and some trifling articles. The latter had ten pounds of tobacco, and +all the other articles: those are called North Men, or Winterers; and to +the last class of people were attached upwards of seven hundred Indian +women and children, victualled at the expence of the company. + +The first class of people are hired in Montreal five months before they +set out, and receive their equipments, and one-third of their wages in +advance; and an adequate idea of the labour they undergo, may be formed +from the following account of the country through which they pass, and +their manner of proceeding. + +The necessary number of canoes being purchased, at about three hundred +livres each, the goods formed into packages, and the lakes and rivers +free of ice, which they usually are in the beginning of May, they are +then despatched from La Chine, eight miles above Montreal, with eight or +ten men in each canoe, and their baggage; and sixty-five packages of +goods, six hundred weight of biscuit, two hundred weight of pork, three +bushels of pease, for the men's provision; two oil-cloths to cover the +goods, a sail, etc., an axe, a towing-line, a kettle, and a sponge to +bail out the water, with a quantity of gum, bark, and watape, to repair +the vessel. An European on seeing one of these slender vessels thus +laden, heaped up, and sunk with her gunwale within six inches of the +water, would think his fate inevitable in such a boat, when he reflected +on the nature of her voyage; but the Canadians are so expert that few +accidents happen. + +Leaving La Chine, they proceed to St. Ann's, within two miles of the +Western extremity of the island of Montreal, the lake of the two +mountains being in sight, which may be termed the commencement of the +Utawas river. At the rapid of St. Ann they are obliged to take out +part, if not the whole of their lading. It is from this spot that the +Canadians consider they take their departure, as it possesses the last +church on the island, which is dedicated to the tutelar saint of +voyages. + +The lake of the two mountains is about twenty miles long, but not more +than three wide, and surrounded by cultivated fields, except the +Seignory belonging to the clergy, though nominally in possession of the +two tribes of Iroquois and Algonquins, whose village is situated on a +delightful point of land under the hills, which, by the title of +mountains, give a name to the lake. Near the extremity of the point +their church is built, which divides the village in two parts, forming a +regular angle along the water side. On the East is the station of the +Algonquins, and on the West, one of the Iroquois, consisting in all of +about five hundred warriors. Each party has its missionary, and divine +worship is performed according to the rites of the Roman Catholic +religion, in their respective languages in the same church: and so +assiduous have their pastors been, that these people have been +instructed in reading and writing in their own language, and are better +instructed than the Canadian inhabitants of the country of the lower +ranks: but notwithstanding these advantages, and though the +establishment is nearly coeval with the colonization of the country, +they do not advance towards a state of civilization, but retain their +ancient habits, language, and customs, and are becoming every day more +depraved, indigent, and insignificant. The country around them, though +very capable of cultivation, presents only a few miserable patches of +ground, sown by the women with maize and vegetables. During the winter +season, they leave their habitations, and pious pastors, to follow the +chase, according to the custom of their forefathers. Such is, indeed, +the state of all the villages near the cultivated parts of Canada. But +we shall now leave them to proceed on our voyage. + +At the end of the lake the water contracts into the Utawas river, which, +after a course of fifteen miles, is interrupted by a succession of +rapids and cascades for upwards of ten miles, at the foot of which the +Canadian Seignories terminate; and all above them were waste land, till +the conclusion of the American war, when they were surveyed by order of +government, and granted to the officers and men of the eighty-fourth +regiment, when reduced; but principally to the former, and consequently +little inhabited, though very capable of cultivation. + +The voyagers are frequently obliged to unload their canoes, and carry +the goods upon their backs, or rather suspended in slings from their +heads. Each man's ordinary load is two packages, though some carry +three. Here the canoe is towed by a strong line. There are some places +where the ground will not admit of their carrying the whole; they then +make two trips, that is, leave half their lading, and go and land it at +the distance required; and then return for that which was left. In this +distance are three carrying-places, the length of which depends in a +great measure upon the state of the water, whether higher or lower; from +the last of these the river is about a mile and a half wide, and has a +regular current for about sixty miles, when it ends at the first Portage +de Chaudiere, where the body of water falls twenty-five feet, over +cragged, excavated rocks, in a most wild, romantic manner. At a small +distance below, is the river Rideau on the left, falling over a +perpendicular rock, near forty feet high, in one sheet, assuming the +appearance of a curtain; and from which circumstance it derives its +name. To this extent the lands have been surveyed, as before observed, +and are very fit for culture. Many loyalists are settled upon the river +Rideau, and have, I am told, thriving plantations. Some American +families preferring the British territory, have also established +themselves along a river on the opposite side, where the soil is +excellent. Nor do I think the period is far distant, when the lands +will become settled from this vicinity to Montreal. + +Over this portage, which is six hundred and forty-three paces long, the +canoe and all the lading is carried. The rock is so steep and difficult +of access, that it requires twelve men to take the canoe out of the +water: it is then carried by six men, two at each end on the same side, +and two under the opposite gunwale in the middle. From hence to the +next is but a short distance, in which they make two trips to the second +Portage de Chaudiere, which is seven hundred paces, to carry the loading +alone. From hence to the next and last Chaudiere, or Portage des +Chenes, is about six miles, with a very strong current, where the goods +are carried seven hundred and forty paces; the canoe being towed up by +the line, when the water is not very high. We now enter Lac des +Chaudieres, which is computed to be thirty miles in length. Though it +is called a lake, there is a strong draught downwards, and its breadth +is from two to four miles. At the end of this is the Portage des Chats, +over which the canoe and lading are carried two hundred and seventy-four +paces; and very difficult it is for the former. The river is here +barred by a ridge of black rock, rising in pinnacles and covered with +wood, which, from the small quantity of soil that nourishes it, is low +and stinted. The river finds its way over and through these rocks, in +numerous channels, falling fifteen feet and upwards. From hence two +trips are made through a serpentine channel, formed by the rocks, for +several miles, when the current slackens, and is accordingly called the +Lac des Chats. To the channels of the grand Calumet, which are computed +to be at the distance of eighteen miles, the current recovers its +strength, and proceeds to the Portage Dufort, which is two hundred and +forty-five paces long; over which the canoe and baggage are transported. +From hence the current becomes more rapid, and requires two trips to the +Decharge des Sables,[3] where the goods are carried one hundred and +thirty-five paces, and the canoe towed. Then follows the Mountain +Portage, where the canoe and lading are also carried three hundred and +eighty-five paces; then to the Decharge of the Derige, where the goods +are carried two hundred and fifty paces; and thence to the grand +Calumet. This is the longest carrying-place in this river, and is about +two thousand and thirty-five paces. It is a high hill or mountain. +From the upper part of this Portage the current is steady, and is only a +branch of the Utawas river, which joins the main channel, that keeps a +more Southern course, at the distance of twelve computed leagues. Six +leagues further it forms Lake Coulonge, which is about four leagues in +length; from thence it proceeds through the channels of the Allumettes +to the decharge, where part of the lading is taken out, and carried +three hundred and forty-two paces. Then succeeds the Portage des +Allumettes, which is but twenty-five paces, over a rock difficult of +access, and at a very short distance from Decharge. From Portage de +Chenes to this spot, is a fine deer-hunting country, and the land in +many places very fit for cultivation. From hence the river spreads +wide, and is full of islands, with some current for seven leagues, to +the beginning of _Riviere Creuse_, or Deep River, which runs in the form +of a canal, about a mile and a half wide, for about thirty-six miles; +bounded upon the North by very high rocks, with low land on the South, +and sandy; it is intercepted again by falls and cataracts, so that the +Portages of the two Joachins almost join. The first is nine hundred and +twenty-six paces, the next seven hundred and twenty, and both very bad +roads. From hence is a steady current of nine miles to the river du +Moine, where there has generally been a trading house; the stream then +becomes strong for four leagues, when a rapid succeeds, which requires +two trips. A little way onward is the Decharge, and close to it, the +Portage of the Roche Capitaine, seven hundred and ninety-seven paces in +length. From hence two trips are made through a narrow channel of the +Roche Capitaine, made by an island four miles in length. A strong +current now succeeds, for about six leagues to the Portage of the two +rivers, which is about eight hundred and twenty paces; from thence it is +three leagues to the Decharge of the Trou, which is three hundred paces. +Near adjoining is the rapid of Levellier; from whence, including the +rapids of Matawoen, where there is no carrying-place, it is about +thirty-six miles to the forks of the same name; in latitude +46. 45. North, and longitude 78. 45. West, and is at the computed +distance of four hundred miles from Montreal. At this place the Petite +Riviere falls into the Utawas. The latter river comes from a +North-Westerly direction, forming several lakes in its course. The +principal of them is Lake Temescamang, where there has always been a +trading post, which may be said to continue, by a succession of rivers +and lakes, upwards of fifty leagues from the Forks, passing near the +waters of the Lake Abbitiby, in latitude 48-1/2, which is received by +the Moose River, that empties itself into James Bay. + +The Petite Riviere takes a South-West direction, is full of rapids and +cataracts to its source, and is not more than fifteen leagues in length, +in the course of which are the following interruptions--The Portage of +Plein Champ, three hundred and nineteen paces; the Decharge of the Rose, +one hundred and forty-five paces; the Decharge of Campion, one hundred +and eighty-four paces; the Portage of the Grosse Roche, one hundred and +fifty paces; the Portage of Paresseux, four hundred and two paces; the +Portage of Prairie, two hundred and eighty-seven paces; the Portage of +La Cave, one hundred paces; Portage of Talon, two hundred and +seventy-five paces; which, for its length, is the worst on the +communication; Portage Pin de Musique, four hundred and fifty-six paces; +next to this, is mauvais de Musique, where many men have been crushed to +death by the canoes, and others have received irrecoverable injuries. +The last in this river is the Turtle Portage, eighty-three paces, on +entering the lake of that name, where, indeed, the river may be said to +take its source. At the first vase from whence to the great river, the +country has the appearance of having been over-run by fire, and +consists, in general, of huge rocky hills. The distance of this portage +which is the height of land, between the waters of the St. Laurence and +the Utawas, is one thousand five hundred and thirteen paces to a small +canal in a plain, that is just sufficient to carry the loaded canoe +about one mile to the next vase, which is seven hundred and twenty-five +paces. It would be twice this distance, but the narrow creek is dammed +in the beaver fashion, to float the canoes to this barrier, through +which they pass, when the river is just sufficient to bear them through +a swamp of two miles to the last vase, of one thousand and twenty-four +paces in length. Though the river is increased in this part, some care +is necessary to avoid rocks and stumps of trees. In about six miles is +the lake Nepisingui, which is computed to be twelve leagues long, though +the route of the canoes is something more: it is about fifteen miles +wide in the widest part, and bound with rocks. Its inhabitants consist +of the remainder of a numerous converted tribe, called Nepisinguis of +the Algonquin nation. Out of it flows the Riviere des Francois, over +rocks of a considerable height. In a bay to the East of this, the road +leads over the Portage of the Chaudiere des Francois, five hundred and +forty-four paces, to still water. It must have acquired the name of +Kettle, from a great number of holes in the solid rock of a cylindrical +form, and not unlike that culinary utensil. They are observable in many +parts along strong bodies of water, and where, at certain seasons, and +distinct periods, it is well known the water inundates; at the bottom of +them are generally found a number of small stones and pebbles. This +circumstance justifies the conclusion, that at some former period these +rocks formed the bed of a branch of the discharge of this lake, although +some of them are upwards of ten feet above the present level of the +water at its greatest height. They are, indeed, to be seen along every +great river throughout this wide extended country. The French river is +very irregular, both as to its breadth and form, and is so interspersed +with islands, that in the whole course of it the banks are seldom +visible. Of its various channels, that which is generally followed by +the canoes is obstructed by the following Portages, viz., des Pins, +fifty-two paces; Feausille, thirty-six paces; Parisienne, one hundred +paces; Recolet, forty-five paces; and the Petite Feausille, twenty-five +paces. In several parts there are guts or channels, where the water +flows with great velocity, which are not more than twice the breadth of +a canoe. The distance to Lake Huron is estimated at twenty-five +leagues, which this river enters in the latitude 45. 53. North, that is, +at the point of land three or four miles within the lake. There is +hardly a foot of soil to be seen from one end of the French river to the +other, its banks consisting of hills of entire rock. The coast of the +lake is the same, but lower, backed at some distance by high lands. The +course runs through numerous islands to the North of West to the river +Tessalon, computed to be about fifty leagues from the French river, and +which I found to be in latitude 46. 12. 21. North; and from thence +crossing, from island to island, the arm of the lake that receives the +water of Lake Superior (which continues the same course), the route +changes to the South of West ten leagues to the Detour, passing the end +of the island of St. Joseph, within six miles of the former place. On +that island there has been a military establishment since the upper +posts were given up to the Americans in the year 1794; and is the +Westernmost military position which we have in this country. It is a +place of no trade, and the greater part, if not the whole of the Indians +come here for no other purpose but to receive the presents which our +government annually allows them. They are from the American territory +(except about thirty families, who are the inhabitants of the lake from +the French river, and of the Algonquin nation) and trade in their +peltries, as they used formerly to do at Michilimakinac, but principally +with British subjects. The Americans pay them very little attention, +and tell them that they keep possession of their country by right of +conquest: that, as their brothers, they will be friends with them while +they deserve it; and that their traders will bring them every kind of +goods they require, which they may procure by their industry. + + +Our commanders treat them in a very different manner, and, under the +character of the representative of their father (which parental title +the natives give to his present Majesty, the common father of all his +people) present them with such things as the actual state of their +stores will allow. + +How far this conduct, if continued, may, at a future exigency, keep +these people in our interest, if they are even worthy of it, is not an +object of my present consideration: at the same time, I cannot avoid +expressing my perfect conviction, that it would not be of the least +advantage to our present or future commerce in that country, or to the +people themselves; as it only tends to keep many of them in a state of +idleness about our military establishments. The ammunition which they +receive is employed to kill game, in order to procure rum in return, +though their families may be in a starving condition: hence it is, that, +in consequence of slothful and dissolute lives, their numbers are in a +very perceptible state of diminution. + +From the Detour to the island of Michilimakinac, at the conference of +the Lakes Huron and Michigan, in latitude 45. 54. North is about forty +miles. To keep the direct course to Lake Superior, the North shore from +the river Tessalon should be followed; crossing to the North-West end of +St. Joseph, and passing between it and the adjacent islands, which makes +a distance of fifty miles to the fall of St. Mary, at the foot of which, +upon the South shore, there is a village, formerly a place of great +resort for the inhabitants of Lake Superior, and consequently of +considerable trade: it is now, however, dwindled to nothing, and reduced +to about thirty families, of the Algonquin, nation, who are one half of +the year starving, and the other half intoxicated, and ten or twelve +Canadians, who have been in the Indian country from an early period of +life, and intermarried with the natives, who have brought them families. +Their inducements to settle there, was the great quantity of white fish +that are to be taken in and about the falls, with very little trouble, +particularly in the autumn, when that fish leave the lakes, and comes to +the running and shallow waters to spawn. These, when salt can be +procured, are pickled just as the frost sets in, and prove very good +food with potatoes, which they have of late cultivated with success. +The natives live chiefly on this fish, which they hang up by the tails, +and preserve throughout the winter, or at least as long as they last; +for whatever quantity they may have taken, it is never known that their +economy is such as to make them last through the winter, which renders +their situation very distressing; for if they had activity sufficient to +pursue the labours of the chase, the woods are become so barren of game +as to afford them no great prospect of relief. In the spring of the +year, they and the other inhabitants make a quantity of sugar from the +maple tree, which they exchange with the traders for necessary articles, +or carry it to Michilimakinac, where they expect a better price. One of +these traders was agent for the North-West Company, receiving, storing, +and forwarding such articles as come by the way of the lakes upon their +vessels: for it is to be observed, that a quantity of their goods are +sent by that route from Montreal in boats to Kingston, at the entrance +of Lake Ontario, and from thence in vessels to Niagara, then over land +ten miles to a water communication by boats, to Lake Erie, where they +are again received into vessels, and carried over that lake up the river +Detroit, through the lake and river Sinclair to Lake Huron, and from +thence to the Falls of St. Mary's, when they are again landed and +carried for a mile above the falls, and shipped over Lake Superior to +the Grande Portage. This is found to be a less expensive method than by +canoes, but attended with more risk, and requiring more time, than one +short season of this country will admit; for the goods are always sent +from Montreal the preceding fall; and besides, the company get their +provisions from Detroit, as flour and Indian corn; as also considerable +supplies from Michilimakinac of maple sugar, tallow, gum, etc., etc. + +For the purpose of conveying all these things, they have two vessels +upon the Lakes Erie and Huron, and one on Lake Superior, of from fifty +to seventy tons burden. This being, therefore, the depot for +transports, the Montreal canoes, on their arrival, were forwarded over +Lake Superior, with only five men in each; the others were sent to +Michilimakinac for additional canoes, which were required to prosecute +the trade, and then taking a lading there, or at St. Mary's, and follow +the others. At length they all arrive at the Grande Portage which is +one hundred and sixty leagues from St. Mary's, coastways, and situated +on a pleasant bay on the North side of the lake, in latitude 48. North, +and longitude 90. West from Greenwich, where the compass has not above +five degrees East variation. + +At the entrance of the bay is an island which screens the harbour from +every wind except the South. The shallowness of the water, however, +renders it necessary for the vessel to anchor near a mile from the +shore, where there is not more than fourteen feet water. This lake +justifies the name that has been given to it; the Falls of St. Mary, +which is its Northern extremity, being in latitude 46. 31. North, and in +longitude 84. West, where there is no variation of the compass +whatever, while its Southern extremity, at the river St. Louis, is in +latitude 46. 45. North, and longitude 92. 10. West: its greatest +breadth is one hundred and twenty miles, and its circumference, +including its various bays, is not less than one thousand two hundred +miles. Along its North shore is the safest navigation, as it is a +continued mountainous embankment of rock, from three hundred to one +thousand five hundred feet in height. There are numerous coves and +sandy bays to land, which are frequently sheltered by islands from the +swell of the lake. This is particularly the case at the distance of one +hundred miles to the Eastward of the Grande Portage, and is called the +Pays Plat. + +This seems to have been caused by some convulsion of nature, for many of +the islands display a composition of lava, intermixed with round stones +of the size of a pigeon's egg. The surrounding rock is generally hard, +and of a dark blue-grey, though it frequently has the appearance of iron +and copper. The South side of the lake, from Point Shagoimigo East, is +almost a continual straight line of sandy beach, interspersed with rocky +precipices of lime-stones, sometimes rising to a hundred feet in height, +without a bay. The embankments from that point Westward are, in +general, of strong clay, mixed with stones, which renders the navigation +irksome and dangerous. On the same side, at the river Tonnagan, is +found a quantity of virgin copper. The Americans, soon after they got +possession of that country, sent an engineer thither; and I should not +be surprised to hear of their employing people to work the mine. +Indeed, it might be well worthy the attention of the British subjects to +work the mines on the North coast, though they are not supposed to be so +rich as those on the South. + +Lake Superior is the largest and most magnificent body of fresh water in +the world: it is clear and pellucid, of great depth, and abounding in a +great variety of fish, which are the most excellent of their kind. +There are trouts of three kinds, weighing from five to fifty pounds, +sturgeon, pickerel, pike, red and white carp, black bass, herrings, +etc., etc., and the last, and best of all, the Ticamang, or white fish, +which weighs from four to sixteen pounds, and is of a superior quality +in these waters. + +This lake may be denominated the grand reservoir of the River +St. Laurence, as no considerable rivers discharge themselves into it. +The principal ones are, the St. Louis, the Nipigon, the Pic, and the +Michipicoten. Indeed, the extent of country from which any of them +flow, or take their course, in any direction, cannot admit of it, in +consequence of the ridge of land that separates them from the rivers +that empty themselves into Hudson's-Bay, the gulf of Mexico, and the +waters that fall in Lake Michigan, which afterward become a part of the +St. Laurence. + +This vast collection of water is often covered with fog, particularly +when the wind is from the East, which, driving against the high barren +rocks on the North and West shore, dissolves in torrents of rain. It is +very generally said, that the storms on this lake are denoted by a swell +on the preceding day; but this circumstance did not appear from my +observation to be a regular phenomenon, as the swells more regularly +subsided without any subsequent wind. + +Along the surrounding rocks of this immense lake, evident marks appear +of the decrease of its water, by the lines observable along them. The +space, however, between the highest and the lowest, is not so great as +in the smaller lakes, as it does not amount to more than six feet, the +former being very faint. + +The inhabitants that are found along the coast of this water, are all of +the Algonquin nation, the whole of which do not exceed 150 families.[4] + +These people live chiefly on fish; indeed, from what has been said of +the country, it cannot be expected to abound in animals, as it is +totally destitute of that shelter, which is so necessary to them. The +rocks appear to have been over-run by fire, and the stinted timber which +once grew there, is frequently seen lying along the surface of them: but +it is not easy to be reconciled, that anything should grow where there +is so little appearance of soil. Between the fallen trees there are +briars, with hurtleberry and gooseberry bushes, raspberries, etc., which +invite the bears in greater or lesser numbers, as they are a favourite +food of that animal: beyond these rocky banks are found a few moose and +fallow deer. The waters alone are abundantly inhabited. + +A very curious phenomenon was observed some years ago at the Grande +Portage, for which no obvious cause could be assigned. The water +withdrew with great precipitation, leaving the ground dry that had never +before been visible, the fall being equal to four perpendicular feet, +and rushing back with great velocity above the common mark. It +continued thus falling and rising for several hours, gradually +decreasing till it stopped at its usual height. There is frequently an +irregular influx and deflux, which does not exceed ten inches, and is +attributed to the wind. + +The bottom of the bay, which forms an amphitheatre, is cleared of wood +and inclosed; and on the left corner of it, beneath an hill, three or +four hundred feet in height, and crowned by others of a still greater +altitude, is the fort, picketed in with cedar pallisadoes, and inclosing +houses built with wood and covered with shingles. They are calculated +for every convenience of trade, as well as to accommodate the +proprietors and clerks during their short residence there. The north +men live under tents: but the more frugal pork-eater lodges beneath his +canoe. The soil immediately bordering on the lake has not proved very +propitious, as nothing but potatoes have been found to answer the +trouble of cultivation. This circumstance is probably owing to the cold +damp fogs of the lake, and the moisture of the ground from the springs +that issue from beneath the hills. There are meadows in the vicinity +that yield abundance of hay for the cattle; but, as to agriculture, it +has not hitherto been an object of serious consideration. + +I shall now leave these geographical notices, to give some further +account of the people from Montreal.--When they are arrived at the +Grande Portage, which is near nine miles over, each of them has to carry +eight packages of such goods and provisions as are necessary for the +interior country. This is a labour which cattle cannot conveniently +perform in summer, as both horses and oxen were tried by the company +without success. They are only useful for light, bulky articles; or for +transporting upon sledges, during the winter, whatever goods may remain +there, especially provision, of which it is usual to have a year's stock +on hand. + +Having finished this toilsome part of their duty, if more goods are +necessary to be transported, they are allowed a Spanish dollar for each +package: and so inured are they to this kind of labour, that I have +known some of them set off with two packages of ninety pounds each, and +return with two others of the same weight, in the course of six hours, +being a distance of eighteen miles over hills and mountains. This +necessary part of the business being over, if the season be early they +have some respite, but this depends upon the time the North men begin to +arrive from their winter quarters, which they commonly do early in July. +At this period, it is necessary to select from the pork-eaters, a number +of men, among whom are the recruits, or winterers, sufficient to man the +North canoes necessary to carry, to the river of the rainy lake, the +goods and provision requisite for the Athabasca country; as the people +of that country (owing to the shortness of the season and length of the +road, can come no further), are equipped there, and exchange ladings +with the people of whom we are speaking, and both return from whence +they came. This voyage is performed in the course of a month, and they +are allowed proportionable wages for their services. + +The North men being arrived at the Grande Portage, are regaled with +bread, pork, butter, liquor, and tobacco, and such as have not entered +into agreements during the winter, which is customary, are contracted +with, to return and perform the voyage for one, two, or three years; +their accounts are also settled, and such as choose to send any of their +earnings to Canada, receive drafts to transmit to their relations or +friends; and as soon as they can be got ready, which requires no more +than a fortnight, they are again despatched to their respective +departments. It is, indeed, very creditable to them as servants, that +though they are sometimes assembled to the number of twelve hundred men, +indulging themselves in the free use of liquor, and quarrelling with +each other, they always show the greatest respect to their employers, +who are comparatively but few in number, and beyond the aid of any legal +power to enforce due obedience. In short, a degree of subordination can +only be maintained by the good opinion these men entertain of their +employers, which has been uniformly the case, since the trade has been +formed and conducted on a regular system. + +The people being despatched to their respective winter-quarters, the +agents from Montreal, assisted by their clerks, prepare to return there, +by getting the furs across the portage, and re-making them into packages +of one hundred pounds weight each, to send them to Montreal; where they +commonly arrive in the month of September. + +The mode of living at the Grande Portage is as follows: The proprietors, +clerks, guides, and interpreters, mess together, to the number of +sometimes an hundred, at several tables, in one large hall, the +provision consisting of bread, salt pork, beef, hams, fish, and venison, +butter, peas, Indian corn, potatoes, tea, spirits, wine, etc., and +plenty of milk, for which purpose several milch cows are constantly +kept. The mechanics have rations of such provision, but the canoe-men, +both from the North and Montreal, have no other allowance here, or in +the voyage, than Indian corn and melted fat. The corn for this purpose +is prepared before it leaves Detroit, by boiling it in a strong alkali, +which takes off the outer husk: it is then well washed, and carefully +dried upon stages, when it is fit for use. One quart of this is boiled +for two hours, over a moderate fire, in a gallon of water; to which, +when it has boiled a small time, are added two ounces of melted suet; +this causes the corn to split, and in the time mentioned makes a pretty +thick pudding. If to this is added a little salt, (but not before it is +boiled, as it would interrupt the operation) it makes a wholesome, +palatable food, and easy of digestion. This quantity is fully +sufficient for a man's subsistence during twenty-four hours; though it +is not sufficiently heartening to sustain the strength necessary for a +state of active labour. The Americans call this dish hominy.[5] + +The trade from the Grande Portage is, in some particulars, carried on in +a different manner with that from Montreal. The canoes used in the +latter transport are now too large for the former, and some of about +half the size are procured from the natives, and are navigated by four, +five, or six men, according to the distance which they have to go. They +carry a lading of about thirty-five packages, on an average; of these +twenty-three are for the purpose of trade, and the rest are employed for +provisions, stores, and baggage. In each of these canoes are a foreman +and steersman; the one to be always on the look-out, and direct the +passage of the vessel, and the other to attend the helm. They also +carry her, whenever that office is necessary. The foreman has the +command, and the middle-men obey both; the latter earn only two-thirds +of the wages which are paid the two former. Independent of these, a +conductor or pilot is appointed to every four or six of these canoes, +whom they are all obliged to obey; and is, or at least is intended to +be, a person of superior experience, for which he is proportionably +paid. + +In these canoes, thus loaded, they embark at the North side of the +portage, on the river Au Tourt, which is very inconsiderable; and after +about two miles of a Westerly course, is obstructed by the Partridge +Portage, six hundred paces long. In the spring this makes a +considerable fall, when the water is high, over a perpendicular rock of +one hundred and twenty feet. From, thence the river continues to be +shallow, and requires great care to prevent the bottom of the canoe from +being injured by sharp rocks, for a distance of three miles and an half +to the Priarie, or Meadow, when half the lading is taken out, and +carried by part of the crew, while two of them are conducting the canoe +among the rocks, with the remainder, to the Carreboeuf Portage, three +miles and a half more, when they unload, and come back two miles, and +embark what was left for the other hands to carry, which they also land +with the former; all of which is carried six hundred and eighty paces, +and the canoe led up against the rapid. From hence the water is better +calculated to carry canoes, and leads by a winding course to the North +of West three miles to the Outard Portage, over which the canoe, and +every thing in her, is carried for two thousand four hundred paces. At +the further end is a very high hill to descend, over which hangs a rock +upwards of seven hundred feet high. Then succeeds the Outard Lake, +about six miles long, lying in a North-West course, and about two miles +wide in the broadest place. + +After passing a very small rivulet, they come to the Elk Portage, over +which the canoe and lading are again carried one thousand one hundred +and twenty paces; when they enter the lake of the same name, which is an +handsome piece of water, running North-West about four miles, and not +more than one mile and an half wide.[6] They then land at the Portage de +Cerise, over which, and in the face of a considerable hill, the canoe +and cargo are again transported for one thousand and fifty paces. This +is only separated from the second Portage de Cerise, by a mud-pond +(where there is plenty of water lilies), of a quarter of a mile in +length; and this is again separated by a similar pond, from the last +Portage de Cerise, which is four hundred and ten paces. Here the same +operation is to be performed for three hundred and eighty paces. They +next enter on the Mountain Lake, running North-West by West six miles +long, and about two miles in its greatest breadth. In the centre of +this lake, and to the right is the Old Road, by which I never passed, +but an adequate notion may be formed of it from the road I am going to +describe, and which is universally preferred. This is first, the small +new portage over which everything is carried for six hundred and +twenty-six paces, over hills and gullies; the whole is then embarked on +a narrow line of water, that meanders South-West about two miles and an +half. It is necessary to unload here, for the length of the canoe, and +then proceed West half a mile, to the new Grande Portage, which is three +thousand one hundred paces in length, and over very rough ground, which +requires the utmost exertions of the men, and frequently lames them: +from hence they approach the Rose Lake, the portage of that name being +opposite to the junction of the road from the Mountain Lake. They then +embark on the Rose Lake, about one mile from the East end of it, and +steer West by South, in an oblique course, across it two miles, then +North-West passing the Petite Peche to the Marten Portage three miles. +In this part of the lake the bottom is mud and slime, with about three +or four feet of water over it; and here I frequently struck a canoe pole +of twelve feet long, without meeting any other obstruction than if the +whole were water: it has, however, a peculiar suction or attractive +power, so that it is difficult to paddle a canoe over it. There is a +small space along the South shore, where the water is deep, and this +effect is not felt. In proportion to the distance from this part, the +suction becomes more powerful: I have, indeed, been told that loaded +canoes have been in danger of being swallowed up, and have only owed +their preservation to other canoes, which were lighter. I have, myself, +found it very difficult to get away from this attractive power, with six +men, and great exertion, though we did not appear to be in any danger of +sinking. + +Over against this is a very high, rocky ridge, on the South side, called +Marten Portage, which is but twenty paces long, and separated from the +Perche Portage, which is four hundred and eighty paces, by a mud pond, +covered with white lilies. From hence the course is on the lake of the +same name, West-South-West three miles to the height of land, where the +waters of the Dove or Pigeon River terminate, and which is one of the +sources of the great St. Laurence in this direction. Having carried the +canoe and lading over it, six hundred and seventy-nine paces, they +embark on the lake of Hauteur de Terre, which is in the shape of an +horseshoe.[7] It is entered near the curve, and left at the extremity of +the Western limb, through a very shallow channel, where the canoe passes +half loaded for thirty paces with the current, which conducts these +waters till they discharge themselves, through the succeeding lakes and +rivers, and disembogues itself, by the river Nelson, into Hudson's Bay. +The first of these is Lac de pierres a fusil, running West-South-West +seven miles long, and two wide, and making an angle at North-West one +mile more, becomes a river for half a mile, tumbling over a rock, and +forming a fall and portage, called the Escalier, of fifty-five paces; +but from hence it is neither lake or river, but possesses the character +of both, and runs between large rocks, which cause a current or rapid +for about two miles and an half, West-North-West, to the portage of the +Cheval du Bois. Here the canoe and contents are carried three hundred +and eighty paces, between rocks; and within a quarter of a mile is the +Portage des Gros Pins, which is six hundred and forty paces over a high +ridge. The opposite side of it is washed by a small lake three mile +round; and the course is through the East end or side of it, three +quarters of a mile North-East, where there is a rapid. An irregular +meandering channel, between rocky banks, then succeeds, for seven miles +and an half, to the Maraboeuf Lake, which extends North four miles, and +is three-quarters of a mile wide, terminating by a rapid and decharge of +one hundred and eighty paces, the rock of Saginaga being in sight, which +causes a fall of about seven feet, and a portage of fifty-five paces. + +Lake Saginaga takes its name from its numerous islands. Its greatest +length from East to West is about fourteen miles, with very irregular +inlets, is nowhere more than three miles wide, and terminates at the +small portage of Le Roche, of forty-three paces. From thence is a +rocky, stony passage of one mile, to Priarie Portage, which is very +improperly named, as there is no ground about it that answers to that +description, except a small spot at the embarking place at the West end: +to the East is an entire bog; and it is with great difficulty that the +lading can be landed upon stages, formed by driving piles into the mud, +and spreading branches of trees over them. The portage rises on a stony +ridge, over which the canoe and cargo must be carried for six hundred +and eleven paces. This is succeeded by an embarkation on a small bay, +where the bottom is the same as has been described in the West end of +Rose Lake, and it is with great difficulty that a laden canoe is worked +over it, but it does not comprehend more than a distance of two hundred +yards. From hence the progress continues through irregular channels, +bounded by rocks, in a Westerly course for about five miles, to the +little Portage des Couteaux, of one hundred and sixty-five paces, and +the Lac des Couteaux, running about South-West by West twelve miles, and +from a quarter to two miles wide. A deep bay runs East three miles from +the West end, where it is discharged by a rapid river, and after running +two miles West, it again becomes still water. In this river are two +carrying-places, the one fifteen, and the other one hundred and ninety +paces. From this to the Portage des Carpes is one mile North-West, +leaving a narrow lake on the East that runs parallel with the Lac des +Couteaux, half its length, where there is a carrying-place, which is +used when the water in the river last mentioned is too low. The Portage +des Carpes is three hundred and ninety paces, from whence the water +spreads irregularly between rocks, five miles North-West and South-East +to the Portage of Lac Bois Blanc, which is one hundred and eighty paces. +Then follows the lake of that name, but I think improperly so called, as +the natives name it the Lac Passeau Minac Sagaigan, or lake of Dry +Berries. + +Before the small-pox ravaged this country, and completed, what the +Nodowasis, in their warfare, had gone far to accomplish, the destruction +of its inhabitants, the population was very numerous: this was also a +favourite part, where they made their canoes, etc., the lake abounding +in fish, the country round it being plentifully supplied with various +kinds of game, and the rocky ridges, that form the boundaries of the +water, covered with a variety of berries. + +When the French were in possession of this country, they had several +trading establishments on the islands and banks of this lake. Since +that period, the few people remaining, who were of the Algonquin nation, +could hardly find subsistence; game having become so scarce, that they +depended principally for food upon fish and wild rice, which grows +spontaneously in these parts. + +This lake is irregular in its form, and its utmost extent from East to +West is fifteen miles; a point of land, called Point au Pin, jutting +into it, divides it in two parts: it then makes a second angle at the +West end, to the lesser Portage de Bois Blanc, two hundred paces in +length. This channel is not wide, and is intercepted by several rapids +in the course of a mile: it runs West-North West to the Portage des +Pins, over which the canoe and lading is again carried four hundred +paces. From hence the channel is also intercepted by very dangerous +rapids, for two miles Westerly, to the point of Pointe du Bois, which is +two hundred and eighty paces. Then succeeds the portage of La Croche, +one mile more, where the carrying-place is eighty paces, and is followed +by an embarkation on that lake, which takes its name from its figure. +It extends eighteen miles, in a meandering form, and in a westerly +direction; it is in general very narrow, and at about two-thirds of its +length becomes very contracted, with a strong current. + +Within three miles of the last Portage is a remarkable rock, with a +smooth face, but split and cracked in different parts, which hang over +the water. Into one of its horizontal chasms a great number of arrows +have been shot, which is said to have been done by a war party of the +Nadowasis or Sieux, who had done much mischief in this country, and left +these weapons as a warning to the Chebois or natives, that, +notwithstanding its lakes, rivers, and rocks, it was not inaccessible to +their enemies. + +Lake Croche is terminated by the Portage de Rideau, four hundred paces +long, and derives its name from the appearance of the water, falling +over a rock of upwards of thirty feet. Several rapids succeed, with +intervals of still water, for about three miles to the Flacon portage, +which is very difficult, is four hundred paces long, and leads to the +Lake of La Croix, so named from its shape. It runs about North-West +eighteen miles to the Beaver Dam, and then sinks into a deep bay nearly +East. The course to the Portage is West by North for sixteen miles more +from the Beaver Dam, and into the East bay is a road which was +frequented by the French, and followed through lakes and rivers until +they came to Lake Superior by the river Caministiquia, thirty miles East +of the Grande Portage. + +Portage la Croix is six hundred paces long: to the next portage is a +quarter of a mile, and its length is forty paces; the river winding four +miles to Vermillion Lake, which runs six or seven miles +North-North-West, and by a narrow strait communicates with Lake +Namaycan, which takes its name from a particular place at the foot of a +fall, where the natives spear sturgeon: Its course is about +North-North-West and South-South-East, with a bay running East, that +gives it the form of a triangle: its length is about sixteen miles to +the Nouvelle Portage. + +The discharge of the lake is from a bay on the left, and the portage one +hundred eighty paces, to which succeeds a very small river, from whence +there is but a short distance to the next Nouvelle Portage, three +hundred and twenty paces long. It is then necessary to embark on a +swamp, or overflowed country, where wild rice grows in great abundance. +There is a channel or small river in the centre of this swamp, which is +kept with difficulty, and runs South and North one mile and a half. +With deepening water, the course continues North-North-West one mile to +the Chaudiere Portage, which is caused by the discharge of the waters +running on the left of the road from Lake Namaycan, which used to be the +common route, but that which I have described is the safest as well as +shortest. From hence there is some current though the water is wide +spread, and its course about North by West three miles and an half to +the Lac de la Pluie, which lies nearly East and West; from thence about +fifteen miles is a narrow strait that divides the lake into two unequal +parts, from whence to its discharge is a distance of twenty-four miles. +There is a deep bay running North-West on the right, that is not +included, and is remarkable for furnishing the natives with a kind of +soft, red stone, of which they make their pipes; it also affords an +excellent fishery both in the summer and winter; and from it is an easy, +safe, and short road to the Lac du Bois, (which I shall mention +presently) for the Indians to pass in their small canoes, through a +small lake and on a small river, whose banks furnish abundance of wild +rice. The discharge of this lake is called Lac de la Pluie River, at +whose entrance there is a rapid, below which is a fine bay, where there +had been an extensive picketed fort and building when possessed by the +French: the site of it is at present a beautiful meadow, surrounded with +groves of oaks. From hence there is a strong current for two miles, +where the water falls over a rock twenty feet, and, from the consequent +turbulence of the water, the carrying-place, which is three hundred and +twenty paces long, derives the name of Chaudiere. Two miles onward is +the present trading establishment, situated on an high bank on the North +side of the river, in 48. 37. North latitude. + +Here the people from Montreal come to meet those who arrive from the +Athabasca country, as has been already described, and exchange lading +with them. This is also the residence of the first chief, or Sachem, of +all the Algonquin tribes, inhabiting the different parts of this +country. He is by distinction called Nectam, which implies personal +preeminence. Here also the elders meet in council to treat of peace or +war. + +This is one of the finest rivers in the North-West, and runs a course +West and East one hundred and twenty computed miles; but in taking its +course and distance minutely I make it only eighty. Its banks are +covered with a rich soil, particularly to the North, which, in many +parts, are clothed with fine open groves of oak, with the maple, the +pine, and the cedar. The Southern bank is not so elevated, and displays +the maple, the white birch, and the cedar, with the spruce, the alder, +and various underwood. Its waters abound in fish, particularly the +sturgeon, which the natives both spear and take with drag-nets. But +notwithstanding the promise of this soil, the Indians do not attend to +its cultivation, though they are not ignorant of the common process, and +are fond of the Indian corn, when they can get it from us. + +Though the soil at the fort is a stiff clay, there is a garden, which, +unassisted as it is by manure, or any particular attention, is tolerably +productive. + +We now proceed to mention the Lac du Bois, into which this river +discharges itself in latitude 49. North, and was formerly famous for the +richness of its banks and waters, which abounded with whatever was +necessary to a savage life. The French had several settlements in and +about it; but it might be almost concluded, that some fatal circumstance +had destroyed the game, as war and the small-pox had diminished the +inhabitants, it having been very unproductive in animals since the +British subjects have been engaged in travelling through it; though it +now appears to be recovering its pristine state. The few Indians who +inhabit it might live very comfortably, if they were not so immoderately +fond of spirituous liquors. + +This lake is also rendered remarkable, in consequence of the Americans +having named it as the spot, from which a line of boundary, between them +and British America, was to run West, until it struck the Mississippi: +which, however, can never happen, as the North-West part of the Lac du +Bois is in latitude 49. 37. North, and longitude 94.31. West, and the +Northernmost branch of the source of the Mississippi is in latitude +47. 38. North, and longitude 95. 6. West, ascertained by Mr. Thomson, +astronomer to the North-West Company, who was sent expressly for that +purpose in the spring of 1798. He, in the same year, determined the +Northern bend of the Mississoury to be in latitude 47. 32. North, and +longitude 101. 25. West; and, according to the Indian accounts, it runs +to the south of West, so that if the Mississoury were even to be +considered as the Mississippi, no Western line could strike it. + +It does not appear to me to be clearly determined what course the Line +is to take, or from what part of Lake Superior it strikes through the +country to the Lac du Bois: were it to follow the principal waters to +their source, it ought to keep through Lake Superior to the River +St. Louis, and follow that river to its source; close to which is the +source of the waters falling into the river of Lac la Pluie, which is a +common route of the Indians to the Lac du Bois; the St. Louis passes +within a short distance of a branch of the Mississippi, where it becomes +navigable for canoes. This will appear more evident from consulting the +map: and if the navigation of the Mississippi is considered as of any +consequence by this country, from that part of the globe, such is the +nearest way to get at it. + +But to return to our narrative. The Lac du Bois is, as far as I could +learn, nearly round, and the canoe course through the centre of it among +a cluster of islands, some of which are so extensive that they may be +taken for the mainland. The reduced course would be nearly South and +North. But following the navigating course, I make the distance +seventy-five miles, though in a direct line it would fall very short of +that length. At about two-thirds of it there is a small carrying-place, +when the water is low. The carrying-place out of the Lake is on the +island and named Portage du Rat, in latitude 49. 37. North, and +longitude 94. 15. West; it is about fifty paces long. The lake +discharges itself at both ends of this island, and forms the River +Winipic, which is a large body of water, interspersed with numerous +islands, causing various channels and interruptions of portages and +rapids. In some parts it has the appearance of lakes, with steady +currents; I estimate its winding course to the Dalles eight miles; to +the Grand Decharge twenty-five miles and an half, which is a long +carrying-place for the goods; from thence to the little Decharge one +mile and an half; to the Terre Jaune Portage two miles and an half; then +to its galet seventy yards; two miles and three quarters to the Terre +Blanche, near which is a fall of from four to five feet; three miles and +an half to Portage de L'Isle, where there is a trading-post, and, about +eleven miles, on the north shore, a trading establishment, which is the +road in boats, to Albany River, and from thence to Hudson's-Bay. There +is also a communication with Lake Superior, through what is called the +Nipigan country, which enters that Lake about thirty-five leagues East +of the Grande Portage. In short, the country is so broken by lakes and +rivers, that people may find their way in canoes in any direction they +please. It is now four miles to Portage de L'Isle, which is but short, +though several canoes have been lost in attempting to run the rapid. +From thence it is twenty-six miles to Jacob's Falls, which are about +fifteen feet high; and six miles and an half to the woody point; forty +yards from which is another Portage. They both form an high fall, but +not perpendicular. From thence to another galet, or rock Portage, is +about two miles, which is one continual rapid and cascade; and about two +miles further is the Chute a l'Esclave, which is upward of thirty feet. +The Portage is long, through a point covered with wood: it is six miles +and an half more to the barrier, and ten miles to the Grand Rapid. From +thence, on the North side, is a safe road, when the waters are high, +through small rivers and lakes, to the Lake du Bonnet, called the +Pinnawas, from the man who discovered it: to the White River, so called +from its being, for a considerable length, a succession of falls and +cataracts, is twelve miles. Here are seven portages, in so short a +space, that the whole of them are discernible at the same moment. From +this to Lake du Bonnet is fifteen miles more, and four miles across it +to the rapid. Here the Pinnawas Road joins, and from thence it is two +miles to the Galet du Lac du Bonnet; from this to the Galet du Bonnet +one mile and an half; thence to the Portage of the same name is three +miles. This portage is near half a league in length, and derives its +name from the custom the Indians have of crowning stones, laid in a +circle on the highest rock in the portage, with wreaths of herbage and +branches. There have been examples of men taking seven packages of +ninety pounds each, at one end of the portage, and putting them down at +the other without stopping. + +To this another small portage immediately succeeds, over a rock +producing a fall. From thence to the fall of Terre Blanche is two miles +and an half; to the first portage Des Eaux qui Remuent is three miles; +to the next, of the same name, is but a few yards distant; to the third +and last, which is a Decharge, is three miles and an half; and from this +to the last Portage of the river, one mile and an half; and to the +establishment, or provision house, is two miles and an half. Here also +the French had their principal inland depot, and got their canoes made. +It is here that the present traders, going to great distances, and where +provision is difficult to procure, receive a supply to carry them to the +Rainy Lake, or Lake Superior. From the establishment to the entrance of +Lake Winipic, is four miles and an half, latitude 50. 37. North. + +The country, soil, produce, and climate, from Lake Superior to this +place, bear a general resemblance, with a predominance of rock and +water: the former is of the granite kind. Where there is any soil it is +well covered with wood, such as oak, elm, ash of different kinds, maple +of two kinds, pines of various descriptions, among which are what I call +the cypress, with the hickory, ironwood, laird, poplar, cedar, black and +white birch, etc., etc. Vast quantities of wild rice are seen +throughout the country, which the natives collect in the month of August +for their winter stores.[8] To the North of fifty degrees it is hardly +known, or at least does not come to maturity. + +Lake Winipic is the great reservoir of several large rivers, and +discharges itself by the River Nelson into Hudson's Bay. The first in +rotation, next to that I have just described, is the Assiniboin, or Red +River, which at the distance of forty miles coastwise, disembogues on +the south west side of the Lake Winipic. It alternately receives those +two denominations from its dividing, at the distance of about thirty +miles from the lake, into two large branches; The Eastern branch, called +the Red River, runs in a Southern direction to near the head waters of +the Mississippi. On this are two trading establishments. The country +on either side is but partially supplied with wood, and consists of +plains covered with herds of the buffalo and elk, especially on the +Western side. On the Eastern side are lakes and rivers, and the whole +country is well wooded, level, abounding in beaver, bears, moose-deer, +fallow deer, etc., etc. The natives, who are of the Algonquin tribe, +are not very numerous, and are considered as the natives of Lake +Superior. This country being near the Mississippi, is also inhabited by +the Nadowasis, who are the natural enemies of the former; the head of +the water being the war-line, they are in a continual state of +hostility; and though the Algonquins are equally brave, the others +generally out-number them; it is very probable, therefore, that if the +latter continue to venture out of the woods, which form their only +protection, they will soon be extirpated. There is not, perhaps, a +finer country in the world for the residence of uncivilised man, than +that which occupies the space between this river and Lake Superior. It +abounds in every thing necessary to the wants and comforts of such a +people. Fish, venison, and fowl, with wild rice, are in great plenty; +while, at the same time, their subsistence requires that bodily exercise +so necessary to health and vigour. + +This great extent of country was formerly very populous, but from the +information I received, the aggregate of its inhabitants does not exceed +three hundred warriors; and, among the few whom I saw, it appeared to me +that the widows were more numerous than the men. The raccoon is a +native of this country, but is seldom found to the Northward of it. + +The other branch is called after the tribe of the Nadowasis, who here go +by the name of Assiniboins, and are the principal inhabitants of it. It +runs from the North-North-West, and in the latitude of 51. 15. West, and +longitude 103. 20., rising in the same mountains as the river Dauphin, +of which I shall speak in due order. They must have separated from +their nation at a time beyond our knowledge, and live in peace with the +Algonquins and Knisteneaux. + +The country between this and the Red River, is almost a continual plain +to the Mississoury. The soil is sand and gravel, with a slight +intermixture of earth, and produces a short grass. Trees are very rare; +nor are there on the banks of the river sufficient, except in particular +spots, to build houses and supply fire-wood for the trading +establishments, of which there are four principal ones. Both these +rivers are navigable for canoes to their source, without a fall; though +in some parts there are rapids, caused by occasional beds of limestone, +and gravel; but in general they have a sandy bottom. + +The Assiniboins, and some of the Fall or Big-bellied Indians, are the +principal inhabitants of this country, and border on the river, +occupying the centre part of it; that next Lake Winipic, and about its +source, being the station of the Algonquins and Knisteneaux, who have +chosen it in preference to their own country. They do not exceed five +hundred families. They are not beaver hunters, which accounts for their +allowing the division just mentioned, as the lower and upper parts of +this river have those animals, which are not found in the intermediate +district. They confine themselves to hunting the buffalo, and trapping +wolves, which cover the country. What they do not want of the former +for raiment and food, they sometimes make into pemmican, or pounded +meat, while they melt the fat, and prepare the skins in their hair, for +winter. The wolves they never eat, but produce a tallow from their fat, +and prepare their skins; all which they bring to exchange for arms and +ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives, and various baubles, with those who go +to traffic in their country. + +The Algonquins, and the Knisteneaux, on the contrary, attend to the +fur-hunting, so that they acquire the additional articles of cloth, +blankets, etc., but their passion for rum often puts it out of their +power to supply themselves with real necessaries. + +The next river of magnitude is the river Dauphin, which empties itself +at the head of St. Martin's Bay, on the West side of the Lake Winipic, +latitude nearly 52. 15. North, taking its source in the same mountains +as the last-mentioned river, as well as the Swan and Red-Deer rivers, +the latter passing through the lake of the same name, as well as the +former, and both continuing their course through the Manitoba Lake, +which, from thence, runs parallel with Lake Winipic, to within nine +miles of the Red River, and by what is called the river Dauphin, +disembogues its waters, as already described, into that lake. These +rivers are very rapid, and interrupted by falls, etc., the bed being +generally rocky. All this country, to the South branch of the +Saskatchiwine, abounds in beaver, moose-deer, fallow-deer, elks, bears, +buffaloes, etc. The soil is good, and wherever any attempts have been +made to raise the esculent plants, etc., it has been found productive. + +On these waters are three principal forts for trade. Fort Dauphin, +which was established by the French before the conquest. Red-Deer +River, and Swan-River Forts, with occasional detached posts from these. +The inhabitants are the Knisteneaux, from the North of Lake Winipic; and +Algonquins from the country between the Red River and Lake Superior; and +some from the Rainy Lake: but as they are not fixed inhabitants, their +number cannot be determined: they do not, however, at any time exceed +two hundred warriors. In general they are good hunters. There is no +other considerable river except the Saskatchiwine, which I shall mention +presently, that empties itself into the Lake Winipic. + +Those on the North side are inconsiderable, owing to the comparative +vicinity of the high land that separates the waters coming this way, +from those discharging into Hudson's Bay. The course of the lake is +about West-North-West and South-South-East, and the East end of it is in +50. 37. North. It contracts at about a quarter of its length to a +strait, in latitude 51. 45., and is no more than two miles broad, where +the South shore is gained through islands, and crossing various bays to +the discharge of the Saskatchiwine, in latitude 53. 15. This lake, in +common with those of this country, is bounded on the North with banks of +black and grey rock, and on the South by a low level country, +occasionally interrupted with a ridge or bank of lime-stones, lying in +stratas, and rising to the perpendicular height of from twenty to forty +feet; these are covered with a small quantity of earth, forming a level +surface, which bears timber, but of a moderate growth, and declines to a +swamp. Where the banks are low, it is evident in many places that the +waters are withdrawn, and never rise to those heights which were +formerly washed by them. + +The inhabitants who are found along this lake are of the Knisteneaux and +Algonquin tribes, and but few in number, though game is not scarce, and +there is fish in great abundance. The black bass is found there, and no +further West; and beyond it no maple trees are seen, either hard or +soft. + +On entering the Saskatchiwine, in the course of a few miles, the great +rapid interrupts the passage. It is about three miles long. Through +the greatest part of it the canoe is towed, half or full laden, +according to the state of the waters: the canoe and its contents are +then carried one thousand one hundred paces. The channel here is near a +mile wide, the waters tumbling over ridges of rocks that traverse the +river. The South bank is very high, rising upwards of fifty feet, of +the same rock as seen on the South side of the Lake Winipic, and the +North is not more than a third of that height. There is an excellent +sturgeon-fishery at the foot of this cascade, and vast numbers of +pelicans, cormorants, etc., frequent it, where they watch to seize the +fish that may be killed or disabled by the force of the waters. + +About two miles from this Portage the navigation is again interrupted by +the Portage of the Roche Rouge, which is an hundred yards long; and a +mile and an half from thence the river is barred by a range of islands, +forming rapids between them; and through these it is the same distance +to the rapid of Lake Travers, which is four miles right across, and +eight miles in length. Then succeeds the Grande Decharge, and several +rapids, for four miles to the Cedar Lake, which is entered through a +small channel on the left, formed by an island, as going round it would +occasion loss of time. In this distance banks of rocks (such as have +already been described) appear at intervals on, either side; the rest of +the country is low. This is the case along the South bank of the lake +and the islands, while the North side, which is very uncommon, is level +throughout. This lake runs first West four miles, then as much more +West-South-West, across a deep bay on the right, then six miles to the +Point de Lievre, and across another bay again on the right; then +North-West eight miles, across a still deeper hay on the right; and +seven miles parallel with the North coast, North-North-West through +islands, five miles more to Fort Bourbon,[9] situated on a small island, +dividing this from Mud Lake. + +The Cedar Lake is from four to twelve miles wide, exclusive, of the +bays. Its banks are covered with wood, and abound in game, and its +waters produce plenty of fish, particularly the sturgeon. The Mud Lake, +and the neighbourhood of the Fort Bourbon, abound with geese, ducks, +swans, etc., and was formerly remarkable for a vast number of martens, +of which it cannot now boast but a very small proportion. + +The Mud Lake must have formerly been a part of the Cedar Lake, but the +immense quantity of earth and sand, brought down by the Saskatchiwine, +has filled up this part of it for a circumference whose diameter is at +least fifteen or twenty miles: part of which space is still covered with +a few feet of water, but the greatest proportion is shaded with large +trees, such as the liard, the swamp-ash, and the willow. This land +consists of many islands, which consequently form various channels, +several of which are occasionally dry, and bearing young wood. It is, +indeed, more than probable that this river will, in the course of time, +convert the whole of the Cedar Lake into a forest. To the North-West +the cedar is not to be found. + +From this lake the Saskatchiwine may be considered as navigable to near +its source in the rocky mountains, for canoes, and without a +carrying-place, making a great bend to Cumberland House, on Sturgeon +Lake. From the confluence of its North and South branches its course is +Westerly; spreading itself, it receives several tributary streams, and +encompasses a large tract of country, which is level, particularly along +the South branch, but is little known. Beaver, and other animals, whose +furs are valuable, are amongst the inhabitants of the North-West branch, +and the plains are covered with buffaloes, wolves, and small foxes; +particularly about the South branch, which, however, has of late claimed +some attention, as it is now understood, that where the plains terminate +towards the rocky mountain, there is a space of hilly country clothed +with wood, and inhabited also by animals of the fur kind. This has been +actually determined to be the case towards the head of the North branch, +where the trade has been carried to about the latitude 54. North, and +longitude 114. 30. West. The bed and banks of the latter, in some few +places, discover a stratum of free-stone; but, in general, they are +composed of earth and sand. The plains are sand and gravel, covered +with fine grass, and mixed with a small quantity of vegetable earth, +This is particularly observable along the North branch, the West side of +which is covered with wood. + +There are on this river five principal factories for the convenience of +trade with the natives. Nepawi House, South-branch House, Fort-George +House, Fort-Augustus House, and Upper Establishment. There have been +many others, which, from various causes, have been changed for these, +while there are occasionally others depending on each of them. + +The inhabitants, from the information I could obtain, are as follow: + +At Nepawi and South-Branch House, about thirty tents of Knisteneaux, or +ninety warriors; and sixty tents of Stone Indians, or Assiniboins, who +are their neighbours, and are equal to two hundred men: their hunting +ground extends upwards to about the Eagle Hills. Next to them are those +who trade at Forts George and Augustus, and are about eighty tents or +upwards of Knisteneaux: on either side of the river, their number may be +two hundred. In the same country are one hundred and forty tents of +Stone Indians: not quite half of them inhabit the West woody country; +the others never leave the plains, and their numbers cannot be less than +four hundred and fifty men. At the Southern Head-waters of the +North-branch dwells a tribe called Sarsees, consisting of about +thirty-five tents, or one hundred and twenty men. Opposite to those +Eastward, on the head-waters of the South Branch, are the Picaneaux, to +the number of from twelve to fifteen hundred men. Next to them, on the +same water, are the Blood-Indians, of the same nation as the last, to +the number of about fifty tents, or two hundred and fifty men. From +them downwards extend the Black-Feet Indians, of the same nation as the +two last tribes: their number may be eight hundred men. Next to them, +and who extend to the confluence of the South and North branch, are the +Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, who may amount to about six hundred +warriors. + +Of all these different tribes, those who inhabit the broken country on +the North-West side, and the source of the North branch, are +beaver-hunters; the others deal in provisions, wolf, buffalo, and fox +skins; and many people on the South branch do not trouble themselves to +come near the trading establishments. Those who do, choose such +establishments as are next to their country. The Stone-Indians here, +are the same people as the Stone-Indians, or Assiniboins, who inhabit +the river of that name already described, and both are detached tribes +from the Nadowasis, who inhabit the Western side of the Mississippi, and +lower part of the Missisoury. The Fall, or Big-bellied Indians, are +from the South-Eastward also, and of a people who inhabit the plains +from the North bend of the last mentioned river, latitude 47. +32. North, longitude 101. 25. West, to the South bend of the Assiniboin +River, to the number of seven hundred men. Some of them occasionally +come to the latter river to exchange dressed buffalo robes and bad +wolf-skins for articles of no great value. + +The Picaneaux, Black-Feet, and Blood-Indians, are a distinct people, +speak a language of their own, and, I have reason to think, are +travelling North-West, as well as the others just mentioned: nor have I +heard of any Indians with whose language that which they speak has any +affinity.--They are the people who deal in horses, and take them upon +the war-parties towards Mexico; from which, it is evident, that the +country to the South-East of them consists of plains, as those animals +could not well be conducted through an hilly and woody country, +intersected by waters. + +The Sarsees, who are but few in number, appear from their language, to +come on the contrary from the North-West, and are of the same people as +the Rocky-Mountain Indians described in my second journal, who are a +tribe of the Chepewyans; and, as for the Knisteneaux, there is no +question of their having been, and continuing to be, invaders of this +country, from the Eastward. Formerly, they struck terror into all the +other tribes whom they met; but now they have lost the respect that was +paid them; as those whom they formerly considered as barbarians are now +their allies, and consequently become better acquainted with them, and +have acquired the use of fire-arms. The former are still proud without +power, and affect to consider the others as their inferiors: those +consequently are extremely jealous of them, and, depending upon their +own superiority in numbers, will not submit tamely to their insults; so +that the consequences often prove fatal, and the Knisteneaux are thereby +decreasing both in power and number; spirituous liquors also tend to +their diminution, as they are instigated thereby to engage in quarrels +which frequently have the most disastrous termination among themselves. + +The Stone-Indians must not be considered in the same point of view +respecting the Knisteneaux, for they have been generally obliged, from +various causes, to court their alliance. They, however, are not without +their disagreements, and it is sometimes very difficult to compose their +differences. These quarrels occasionally take place with the traders, +and sometimes have a tragical conclusion. They generally originate in +consequence of stealing women and horses: they have great numbers of the +latter throughout their plains, which are brought, as has been observed, +from the Spanish settlements in Mexico; and many of them have been seen +even in the back parts of this country, branded with the initials of +their original owners' names. Those horses are distinctly employed as +beasts of burden, and to chase the buffalo. The former are not +considered as being of much value, as they may be purchased for a gun, +which costs no more than twenty-one shillings in Great Britain. Many of +the hunters cannot be purchased with ten, the comparative value of which +exceeds the property of any native. + +Of these useful animals no care whatever is taken, as when they are no +longer employed, they are turned loose winter and summer to provide for +themselves. Here, it is to be observed, that the country, in general, +on the West and North side of this great river, is broken by the lakes +and rivers with small intervening plains, where the soil is good, and +the grass grows to some length. To these the male buffaloes resort for +the winter, and if it be very severe, the females also are obliged to +leave the plains. + +But to return to the route by which the progress West and North is made +through this continent. + +We leave the Saskatchiwine[10] by entering the river which forms the +discharge of the Sturgeon Lake, on whose East bank is situated +Cumberland house, in latitude 53. 56. North, longitude 102. 15. The +distance between the entrance and Cumberland house is estimated at +twenty miles. + +It is very evident that the mud which is carried down by the +Saskatchiwine River, has formed the land that lies between it and the +lake, for the distance of upwards of twenty miles in the line of the +river, which is inundated during one half of the summer, though covered +with wood. This lake forms an irregular horse-shoe, one side of which +runs to the North-West, and bears the name of Pine-Island Lake, and the +other, known by the name already mentioned, runs to the East of North, +and is the largest: its length is about twenty-seven miles, and its +greatest breadth about six miles. The North side of the latter is the +same kind of rock as that described in Lake Winipic, on the West shore. +In latitude 54. 16. North, the Sturgeon-Weir River discharges itself +into this lake, and its bed appears to be of the same kind of rock, and +is almost a continual rapid. Its direct course is about West by North, +and with its windings, is about thirty miles. It takes its waters into +the Beaver Lake the South-West side of which consists of the same rock +lying in thin stratas: the route then proceeds from island to island for +about twelve miles, and along the North shore, for four miles more, the +whole being a North-West course to the entrance of a river, in latitude +54. 32. North. The lake, for this distance, is about four or five miles +wide, and abounds with fish common to the country. The part of it upon +the right of that which has been described, appears more considerable. +The islands are rocky, and the lake itself surrounded by rocks. The +communication from hence to the Bouleau Lake, alternately narrows into +rivers and spreads into small lakes. The interruptions are, the Pente +Portage, which is succeeded by the Grand Rapid, where there is a +Decharge, the Carp Portage, the Bouleau Portage in latitude +54. 50. North, including a distance, together with the windings, of +thirty-four miles, in a Westerly direction. The Lake de Bouleau then +follows. This lake might with greater propriety be denominated a canal, +as it is not more than a mile in breadth. Its course is rather to the +East of North for twelve miles to Portage de L'Isle. From thence there +is still water to Portage d'Epinettes, except an adjoining rapid. The +distance is not more than four miles Westerly. After crossing this +Portage, it is not more than two miles to Lake Miron, which is in +latitude 55. 7. North. Its length is about twelve miles, and its +breadth irregular, from two to ten miles. It is only separated from +Lake du Chitique, or Pelican Lake, by a short, narrow, and small strait. +That lake is not more than seven miles long, and its course about +North-West. The Lake des Bois then succeeds, the passage to which is +through small lakes, separated by falls and rapids. The first is a +Decharge: then follow the three galets, in immediate succession. From +hence Lake des Bois runs about twenty-one miles. Its course is +South-South-East, and North-North-West, and is full of islands. The +passage continues through an intricate, narrow, winding, and shallow +channel for eight miles. The interruptions in this distance are +frequent, but depend much on the state of the waters. Having passed +them, it is necessary to cross the Portage de Traite, or, as it is +called by the Indians, Athiquisipichigan Ouinigam, or the Portage of the +Stretched Frog Skin, to the Missinipi. The waters already described +discharge themselves into Lake Winipic, and augment those of the river +Nelson. These which we are now entering are called the Missinipi, or +great Churchill River. + +All the country to the South and East of this, within the line of the +progress that has been described, is interspersed by lakes, hills, and +rivers, and is full or animals, of the fur-kind, as well as the +moose-deer. Its inhabitants are the Knisteneaux Indians, who are called +by the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company, at York, their home-guards. + +The traders from Canada succeeded for several years in getting the +largest proportion of their furs, till the year 1793, when the servants +of that company thought proper to send people amongst them, (and why +they did not do it before is best known to themselves), for the purpose +of trade, and securing their credits, which the Indians were apt to +forget. From the short distance they had to come, and the quantity of +goods they supplied, the trade has, in a great measure, reverted to +them, as the merchants from Canada could not meet them upon equal terms. +What added to the loss of the latter, was the murder of one of their +traders by the Indians, about this period. Of these people not above +eighty men have been known to the traders from Canada, but they consist +of a much greater number. + +The Portage de Traite, as has been already hinted, received its name +from Mr. Joseph Frobisher, who penetrated into this part of the country +from Canada, as early as the years 1774 and 1775, where he met with the +Indians in the spring, on their way to Churchill, according to annual +custom, with their canoes full of valuable furs. They traded with him +for as many of them as his canoes could carry, and in consequence of +this transaction, the Portage received and has since retained its +present appellation. He also denominated these waters the English +River. The Missinipi is the name which it received from the +Knisteneaux, when they first came to this country, and either destroyed +or drove back the natives, whom they held in great contempt, on many +accounts, but particularly for their ignorance in hunting the beaver, as +well as in preparing, stretching, and drying the skins of those animals. +And as a sign of their derision, they stretched the skin of a frog, and +hung it up at the Portage. This was, at that time, the utmost extent of +their conquest or war-faring progress West, and is in latitude 55. +25. North, and longitude 103. 45. West. The river here, which bears the +appearance of a lake, takes its name from the Portage, and is full of +islands. It runs from East to West about sixteen miles, and is from +four to five miles broad. Then succeed falls and cascades which form +what is called the grand rapid. From thence there is a succession of +small lakes and rivers, interrupted by rapids and falls, viz., the +Portage de Bareel, the Portage de L'Isle, and that of the Rapid River. +The course is twenty miles from East-South-East to North-North-West. +The Rapid-River Lake then runs West five miles, and is of an oval form. +The rapid river is the discharge of Lake la Ronge, where there has been +an establishment for trade from the year 1782. Since the small-pox +ravaged these parts, there have been but few inhabitants; these are of +the Knisteneaux tribe, and do not exceed thirty men. The direct +navigation continues to be through rivers and canals, interrupted by +rapids; and the distance to the first Decharge is four miles, in a +Westerly direction. Then follows Lake de la Montagne, which runs +South-South-West three miles and an half, then North six miles, through +narrow channels, formed by islands, and continues North-North-West five +miles, to the portage of the same name, which is no sooner crossed, than +another appears in sight, leading to the Otter Lake, from whence it is +nine miles Westerly to the Otter Portage, in latitude 55. 39. Between +this and the Portage du Diable, are several rapids, and the distance +three miles and an half. Then succeeds the lake of the same name, +running from South-East to North-West, five miles, and West four miles +and an half. + +There is then a succession of small lakes, rapids, and falls, producing +the Portage des Ecors, Portage du Galet, and Portage des Morts, the +whole comprehending a distance of six miles, to the lake of the latter +name. On the left side is a point covered with human bones, the relics +of the small-pox; which circumstance gave the Portage and the lake this +melancholy denomination. Its course is South-West fifteen miles, while +its breadth does not exceed three miles. From thence a rapid river +leads to Portage de Hallier, which is followed by Lake de Isle d'Ours: +it is, however, improperly called a lake, as it contains frequent +impediments amongst its islands, from rapids. There is a very dangerous +one about the centre of it, which is named the Rapid qui ne parle point, +or that never speaks, from its silent whirlpool-motion. In some of the +whirlpools the suction is so powerful, that they are carefully avoided. +At some distance from the silent rapid is a narrow strait, where the +Indians have painted red figures on the face of a rock, and where it was +their custom formerly to make an offering of some of the articles which +they had with them, in their way to and from Churchill. The course of +this lake, which is very meandering, may be estimated at thirty-eight +miles, and is terminated by the Portage du Canot Tourner, from the +danger to which those are subject who venture to run this rapid. From +thence a river of one mile and an half North-West course leads to the +Portage de Bouleau, and in about half a mile to Portage des Epingles, so +called from the sharpness of its stones. Then follows the Lake des +Souris, the direction across which is amongst islands, North-West by +West six miles. In this traverse is an island, which is remarkable for +a very large stone, in the form of a bear, on which the natives have +painted the head and snout of that animal; and here they also were +formerly accustomed to offer sacrifices. This lake is separated only by +a narrow strait from the Lake du Serpent, which runs North-North-West +seven miles, to a narrow channel, that connects it with another lake, +bearing the same name, and running the same course for eleven miles, +when the rapid of the same denomination is entered on the West side of +the lake. It is to be remarked here, that for about three or four miles +on the North-West side of this lake, there is an high bank of clay and +sand, clothed with cypress trees, a circumstance which is not observable +on any lakes hitherto mentioned, as they are bounded, particularly on +the North, by black and grey rocks. It may also be considered as a most +extraordinary circumstance, that the Chepewyans go North-West from hence +to the barren grounds, which are their own country, without the +assistance of canoes; as it is well known that in every other part which +has been described, from Cumberland House, the country is broken on +either side of the direction to a great extent: so that a traveller +could not go at right angles with any of the waters already mentioned, +without meeting with others in every eight or ten miles. This will also +be found to be very much the case in proceeding to Portage la Loche. + +The last mentioned rapid is upwards of three miles long, North-West by +West; there is, however, no carrying, as the line and poles are +sufficient to drag and set the canoes against the current. Lake Croche +is then crossed in a Westerly direction of six miles, though its whole +length may be twice that distance: after which it contracts to a river +that runs Westerly for ten miles, when it forms a bend, which is left to +the South, and entering a portion of its waters called the Grass River, +whose meandering course is about six miles, but in a direct line not +more than half that length, where it receives its waters from the great +river, which then runs Westerly eleven miles before it forms the Knee +Lake, whose direction is to the North of West. It is full of islands +for eighteen miles, and its greatest apparent breadth is not more than +five miles. The portage of the same name is several hundred yards long, +and over large stones. Its latitude is 55. 50. and longitude 106. 30. +Two miles further North is the commencement of the Croche Rapid, which +is a succession of cascades for about three miles, making a bend due +South to the Lake du Primeau, whose course is various, and through +islands, to the distance of about fifteen miles. The banks of this lake +are low, stony, and marshy, whose grass and rushes afford shelter and +food to great numbers of wild fowl. At its Western extremity is Portage +la Puise, from whence the river takes a meandering course, widening and +contracting at intervals, and is much interrupted by rapids. After a +Westerly course of twenty miles, it reaches Portage Pellet. From hence, +in the course of seven miles, are three rapids, to which succeeds the +Shagoina Lake, which may be eighteen miles in circumference. Then +Shagoina strait and rapid lead into the Lake of Isle a la Crosse, in +which the course is South twenty miles, and South-South-West fourteen +miles, to the Point au Sable; opposite to which is the discharge of the +Beaver-River, bearing South six miles: the lake in the distance run, +does not exceed twelve miles in its greatest breadth. It now turns +West-South-West, the Isle a la Crosse being on the South, and the main +land on the North; and it clears the one and the other in the distance +of three miles, the water presenting an open horizon to right and left; +that on the left formed by a deep narrow bay, about ten leagues in +depth; and that to the right by what is called la Riviere Creuse, or +Deep River, being a canal of still water, which is here four miles wide. +On following the last course, Isle a la Crosse Fort appears on a low +isthmus, at the distance of five miles, and is in latitude +55. 25. North, and longitude 107. 48. West. + +This lake and fort take their names from the island just mentioned, +which, as has been already observed, received its denomination from the +game of the cross, which forms a principal amusement among the natives. + +The situation of this lake, the abundance of the finest fish in the +world to be found in its waters, the richness of its surrounding banks +and forests, in moose and fallow deer, with the vast numbers of the +smaller tribes of animals, whose skins are precious, and the numerous +flocks of wild fowl that frequent it in the spring and fall, make it a +most desirable spot for the constant residence of some, and the +occasional rendezvous of others of the inhabitants of the country, +particularly of the Knisteneaux. + +Who the original people were that were driven from it, when conquered by +the Knisteneaux, is not now known, as not a single vestige remains of +them. The latter, and the Chepewyans, are the only people that have +been known here; and it is evident that the last-mentioned consider +themselves as strangers, and seldom remain longer than three or four +years, without visiting their relations and friends in the barren +grounds, which they term their native country. They were for some time +treated by the Knisteneaux as enemies; who now allow them to hunt to the +North of the track which has been described, from Fort du Traite +upwards, but when they occasionally meet them, they insist on +contributions, and frequently punish resistance with their arms. This +is sometimes done at the forts, or places of trade, but then it appears +to be a voluntary gift. A treat of rum is expected on the occasion, +which the Chepewyans on no other account ever purchase; and those only +who have had frequent intercourse with the Knisteneaux have any +inclination to drink it. + +When the Europeans first penetrated into this country, in 1777, the +people of both tribes were numerous, but the small-pox was fatal to them +all, so that there does not exist of the one, at present, more than +forty resident families; and the other has been from about thirty to two +hundred families. These numbers are applicable to the constant and less +ambitious inhabitants, who are satisfied with the quiet possession of a +country affording, without risk or much trouble, every thing necessary +to their comfort; for since traders have spread themselves over it, it +is no more the rendezvous of the errant Knisteneaux, part of whom used +annually to return thither from the country of the Beaver River, which +they had explored to its source in their war and hunting excursions, and +as far as the Saskatchiwine, where they sometimes met people of their +own nation, who had prosecuted similar conquests up that river. In that +country they found abundance of fish and animals, such as have been +already described, with the addition of the buffaloes, who range in the +partial patches of meadow scattered along the rivers and lakes. From +thence they returned in the spring to their friends whom they had left; +and, at the same time met with others who had penetrated with the same +designs into the Athabasca country, which will be described hereafter. + +The spring was the period of this joyful meeting, when their time was +occupied in feasting, dancing, and other pastimes, which were +occasionally suspended for sacrifice, and religious solemnity: while the +narratives of their travels, and the history of their wars, amused and +animated the festival. The time of rejoicing was but short, and was +soon interrupted by the necessary preparations for their annual journey +to Churchill, to exchange their furs for such European articles as were +now become necessary to them. The shortness of the seasons, and the +great length of their way requiring the utmost despatch, the most active +men of the tribe, with their youngest women, and a few of their children +undertook the voyage, under the direction of some of their chiefs, +following the waters already described, to their discharge at Churchill +Factory, which are called, as has already been observed, the Missinipi, +or Great Waters. There they remained no longer than was sufficient to +barter their commodities, with a supernumerary day or two to gratify +themselves with the indulgence of spirituous liquors. At the same time +the inconsiderable quantity they could purchase to carry away with them, +for a regale with their friends, was held sacred, and reserved to +heighten the enjoyment of their return home, when the amusements, +festivity, and religious solemnities of the spring were repeated. The +usual time appropriated to these convivialities being completed, they +separated, to pursue their different objects; and if they were +determined to go to war, they made the necessary arrangements for their +future operations. + +But we must now renew the progress of the route. It is not more than +two miles from Isle a la Crosse Fort, to a point of land which forms a +cheek of that part of the lake called the Riviere Creuse, which +preserves the breadth already mentioned for upwards of twenty miles; +then contracts to about two, for the distance of ten miles more, when it +opens to Lake Clear, which is very wide, and commands an open horizon, +keeping the West shore for six miles. The whole of the distance +mentioned is about North-West, when, by a narrow, crooked channel, +turning to the South of West, the entry is made into Lake du Boeuf, +which is contracted near the middle, by a projecting sandy point; +independent of which it may be described as from six to twelve miles in +breadth, thirty-six miles long, and in a North-West direction. At the +North-West end, in latitude 56. 8. it receives the waters of the river +la Loche, which, in the fall of the year, is very shallow, and navigated +with difficulty even by half-laden canoes. Its water is not sufficient +to form strong rapids, though from its rocky bottom the canoes are +frequently in considerable danger. Including its meanders, the course +of this river may be computed at twenty-four miles, and receives its +first waters from the lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles +long, and six wide; into which a small river flows, sufficient to bear +loaded canoes, for about a mile and an half, where the navigation +ceases; and the canoes, with their lading, are carried over the Portage +la Loche for thirteen miles. + +This portage is the ridge that divides the waters which discharge +themselves into Hudson's Bay, from those that flow into the Northern +ocean, and is in the latitude 56. 20. and longitude 109. 15. West. It +runs South-West until it loses its local height between the +Saskatchiwine and Elk Rivers; close on the bank of the former, in +latitude 53. 36. North, and longitude 113. 45. West, it may be traced +in an Easterly direction toward latitude 58. 12. North, and longitude +103-1/2. West, when it appears to take its course due North, and may +probably reach the Frozen Seas. + +From Lake le Souris, the banks of the rivers and lakes display a smaller +portion of solid rock. The land is low and stony, intermixed with a +light, sandy soil, and clothed with wood. That of the Beaver River is +of a more productive quality: but no part of it has ever been cultivated +by the natives or Europeans, except a small garden at the Isle a la +Crosse, which well repaid the labour bestowed upon it. + +The Portage la Loche is of a level surface, in some parts abounding with +stones, but in general it is an entire sand, and covered with the +cypress, the pine, the spruce fir, and other trees natural to its soil. +Within three miles of the North-West termination, there is a small round +lake, whose diameter does not exceed a mile, and which affords a +trifling respite to the labour of carrying. Within a mile of the +termination of the Portage is a very steep precipice, whose ascent and +descent appears to be equally impracticable in any way, as it consists +of a succession of eight hills, some of which are almost perpendicular; +nevertheless, the Canadians contrive to surmount all these difficulties, +even with their canoes and lading. + +This precipice, which rises upwards of a thousand feet above the plain +beneath it, commands a most extensive, romantic, and ravishing prospect. +From thence the eye looks down on the course of the little river, by +some called the Swan river, and by others, the Clear-Water and Pelican +river, beautifully meandering for upwards of thirty miles. The valley, +which is at once refreshed and adorned by it, is about three miles in +breadth, and is confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying +a most beautiful intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on till +the blue mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining +heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by promontories of +the finest verdure, where the elk and buffalo find pasture. These are +contrasted by spots where fire has destroyed the woods, and left a +dreary void behind it. Nor, when I beheld this wonderful display of +uncultivated nature, was the moving scenery of human occupation wanting +to complete the picture. From this elevated situation, I beheld my +people, diminished, as it were, to half their size, employed in pitching +their tents in a charming meadow, and among the canoes, which, being +turned upon their sides, presented their reddened bottoms in contrast +with the surrounding verdure. At the same time, the process of gumming +them produced numerous small spires of smoke, which, as they rose, +enlivened the scene, and at length blended with the larger columns that +ascended from the fires where the suppers were preparing. It was in the +month of September when I enjoyed a scene, of which I do not presume to +give an adequate description; and as it was the rutting season of the +elk, the whistling of that animal was heard in all the variety which the +echoes could afford it. + +This river, which waters and reflects such enchanting scenery, runs, +including its windings, upwards of eighty miles, when it discharges +itself in the Elk River, according to the denomination of the natives, +but commonly called by the white people, the Athabasca River, in +latitude 56. 42. North. + +At a small distance from Portage la Loche, several carrying-places +interrupt the navigation of the river; about the middle of which are +some mineral springs, whose margins are covered with sulphureous +incrustations. At the junction or fork, the Elk River is about three +quarters of a mile in breadth, and runs in a steady current, sometimes +contracting, but never increasing its channel, till, after receiving +several small streams, it discharges itself into the Lake of the Hills, +in latitude 58. 36. North. At about twenty-four miles from the Fork, +are some bituminous fountains, into which a pole of twenty feet long may +be inserted without the least resistance. The bitumen is in a fluid +state, and when mixed with gum, or the resinous substance collected from +the spruce fir, serves to gum the canoes. In its heated state it emits +a smell like that of sea-coal. The banks of the river, which are there +very elevated, discover veins of the same bituminous quality. At a +small distance from the Fork, houses have been erected for the +convenience of trading with a party of the Knisteneaux, who visit the +adjacent country for the purpose of hunting. + +At the distance of about forty miles from the lake, is the Old +Establishment, which has been already mentioned, as formed by Mr. Pond +in the year 1778-9, and which was the only one in this part of the +world, till the year 1785. In the year 1788 it was transferred to the +Lake of the Hills, and formed on a point on its Southern side, at about +eight miles from the discharge of the river. It was named Fort +Chepewyan, and is in latitude 58. 38. North, longitude 110. 26. West, +and much better situated for trade and fishing as the people here have +recourse to water for their support. + +This being the place which I made my headquarters for eight years, and +from whence I took my departure, on both my expeditions, I shall give +some account of it, with the manner of carrying on the trade there, and +other circumstances connected with it. + +The laden canoes which leave Lake la Pluie about the first of August, do +not arrive here till the latter end of September, or the beginning of +October, when a necessary proportion of them is despatched up the Peace +River to trade with the Beaver and Rocky-Mountain Indians. Others are +sent to the Slave River and Lake, or beyond them, and traffic with the +inhabitants of that country. A small part of them, if not left at the +Fork of the Elk River, return thither for the Knisteneaux, while the +rest of the people and merchandise remain here, to carry on trade with +the Chepewyans. + +Here have I arrived with ninety or an hundred men without any provision +for their sustenance; for whatever quantity might have been obtained +from the natives during the summer, it could not be more than sufficient +for the people despatched to their different posts; and even if there +were a casual superfluity, it was absolutely necessary to preserve it +untouched, for the demands of the spring. The whole dependence, +therefore, of those who remained, was on the lake, and fishing +implements for the means of our support. The nets are sixty fathom in +length, when set, and contain fifteen meshes of five inches in depth. +The manner of using them is as follows: A small stone and wooden buoy +are fastened to the side-line opposite to each other, at about the +distance of two fathoms; when the net is carefully thrown into the +water, the stone sinks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at its +full extent, and it is secured in its situation by a stone at either +end. The nets are visited every day, and taken out every other day to +be cleaned and dried. This is a very ready operation when the waters +are not frozen, but when the frost has set in, and the ice has acquired +its greatest thickness, which is sometimes as much as five feet, holes +are cut in it at the distance of thirty feet from each other, to the +full length of the net; one of them is larger than the rest, being +generally about four feet square, and is called the basin: by means of +them, and poles of a proportionable length, the nets are placed in and +drawn out of the water. The setting of hooks and lines is so simple an +employment as to render a description unnecessary. The white fish are +the principal object of pursuit: they spawn in the fall of the year, +and, at about the setting in of the hard frost, crowd in shoals to the +shallow water, when as many as possible are taken, in order that a +portion of them may be laid by in the frost to provide against the +scarcity of winter; as, during that season, the fish of every +description decrease in the lakes, if they do not altogether disappear. +Some have supposed that during this period they are stationary, or +assume an inactive state. If there should be any intervals of warm +weather during the fall, it is necessary to suspend the fish by the +tail, though they are not so good as those which are altogether +preserved by the frost. In this state they remain to the beginning of +April, when they have been found as sweet as when they were caught.[11] + +Thus do these voyagers live, year after year, entirely upon fish, +without even the quickening flavour of salt, or the variety of any +farinaceous root or vegetable. Salt, however, if their habits had not +rendered it unnecessary, might be obtained in this country to the +Westward of the Peace River, where it loses its name in that of the +Slave River, from the numerous salt-ponds and springs to be found there, +which will supply in any quantity, in a state of concretion, and +perfectly white and clean. When the Indians pass that way they bring a +small quantity to the fort, with other articles of traffic. + +During a short period of the spring and fall, great numbers of wild fowl +frequent this country, which prove a very gratifying food after such a +long privation of flesh-meat. It is remarkable, however, that the +Canadians who frequent the Peace, Saskatchiwine, and Assiniboin rivers, +and live altogether on venison, have a less healthy appearance than +those whose sustenance is obtained from the waters. At the same time +the scurvy is wholly unknown among them. + +In the fall of the year the natives meet the traders at the forts, where +they barter the furs or provisions which they may have procured; they +then obtain credit, and proceed to hunt the beavers, and do not return +till the beginning of the year; when they are again fitted out in the +same manner and come back the latter end of March, or the beginning of +April; They are now unwilling to repair to the beaver hunt until the +waters, are clear of ice, that they may kill them with fire-arms, which +the Chepewyans are averse to employ. The major part of the latter +return to the barren grounds, and live during the summer with their +relations and friends in the enjoyment of that plenty which is derived +from numerous herds of deer. But those of that tribe who are most +partial to these deserts, cannot remain there in winter, and they are +obliged, with the deer, to take shelter in the woods during that +rigorous season, when they contrive to kill a few beavers, and send them +by young men, to exchange for iron utensils and ammunition. + +Till the year 1782, the people of Athabasca sent or carried their furs +regularly to Fort Churchill, Hudson's Bay; and some of them have, since +that time, repaired thither, notwithstanding they could have provided +themselves with all the necessaries which they required. The difference +of the price set on goods here and at the factory, made it an object +with the Chepewyans to undertake a journey of five or six months, in the +course of which they were reduced to the most painful extremities, and +often lost their lives from hunger and fatigue, At present, however, +this traffic is in a great measure discontinued, as they were obliged to +expend in the course of their journey, that very ammunition which was +its most alluring object. + +[1] This might be properly called the stock of the company, as it +included, with the expenditure of the year, the amount of the property +unexpended, which had been appropriated for the adventure of that year, +and was carried on to the account of the following adventure. + +[2] This will be better illustrated by the following statement:--We +will suppose the goods for 1798: The orders for the goods are sent to +this country 25th October, 1796; they are shipped from London March, +1797; they arrive in Montreal June, 1797; they are made up in the course +of that summer and winter; they are sent from Montreal May, 1798; they +arrive in the Indian country, and are exchanged for furs the following +winter, 1798-99; which furs come to Montreal September, 1799; and are +shipped for London; where they are sold in March and April, and paid for +in May or June, 1800. + +[3] The place where the goods alone are carried, is called a _Decharge_, +and that where goods and canoes are both transported overland, is +denominated a _Portage_. + +[4] In the year 1668, when the first missionaries visited the South of +this lake, they found the country full of inhabitants. They relate, +that about this time a band of the Nepisingues, who were converted, +emigrated to the Nipigon country, which is to the North of Lake +Superior. Few of their descendants are now remaining, and not a trace +of the religion communicated to them is to be discovered. + +[5] Corn is the cheapest provision that can be procured, though from the +expense of transport, the bushel costs about twenty shillings sterling, +at the Grande Portage. A man's daily allowance does not exceed +ten-pence. + +[6] Here is a most excellent fishery for white fish, which are +exquisite. + +[7] The route which we have been travelling hitherto, leads along the +high rocky land or bank of Lake Superior on the left. The face of the +country offers a wild scene of huge hills and rocks, separated by stony +valleys, lakes and ponds. Wherever there is the least soil, it is well +covered with trees. + +[8] The fruits are, strawberries, hurtleberries, plums, and cherries, +hazelnuts, gooseberries, currents, raspberries, poires, etc. + +[9] This was also a principal post of the French, who gave it its name. + +[10] It may be proper to observe, that the French had two settlements +upon the Saskatchiwine, long before, and at the conquest of Canada; the +first at the Pasquia, near Carrot River, and the other at Nipawi, where +they had agricultural instruments and wheel carriages, marks of both +being found about those establishments, where the soil is excellent. + +[11] This fishery requires the most unremitting attention, as the +voyaging Canadians are equally indolent, extravagant, and improvident, +when left to themselves, and rival the savages in a neglect of the +morrow. + + + + +SOME ACCOUNT OF THE KNISTENEAUX INDIANS. + + +These people are spread over a vast extent of country. Their language +is the same as that of the people who inhabit the coast of British +America on the Atlantic, with the exception of the Esquimaux,[1] and +continues along the coast of Labrador, and the gulf and banks of +St. Laurence to Montreal. + +The line then follows the Utawas river to its source; and continues from +thence nearly West along the highlands which divides the waters that +fall into Lake Superior and Hudson's Bay. It then proceeds till it +strikes the middle part of the river Winipic, following that water to +the Lake Winipic, to the discharge of the Saskatchiwine into it; from +thence it accompanies the latter to Fort George, when the line, striking +by the head of the Beaver river to the Elk river, runs along its banks +to its discharge in the Lake of the Hills; from which it may be carried +back East, to the Isle a la Crosse, and so on to Churchill by the +Missinipi, The whole of the tract between this line and Hudson's Bay and +Straits (except that of the Esquimaux in the latter), may be said to be +exclusively the country of the Knisteneaux. Some of them indeed, have +penetrated further West and South to the Red River, to the South of Lake +Winipic, and the South branch of the Saskatchiwine. + +They are of a moderate stature, well proportioned, and of great +activity. Examples of deformity are seldom to be seen among them. +Their complexion is of a copper colour, and their hair black, which is +common to all the natives of North America. It is cut in various forms, +according to the fancy of the several tribes, and by some is left in the +long, lank, flow of nature. They very generally extract their beards, +and both sexes manifest a disposition to pluck the hair from every part +of their body and limbs. Their eyes are black, keen, and penetrating; +their countenance open and agreeable, and it is a principal object of +their vanity to give every possible decoration to their persons. A +material article in their toilets is vermilion, which they contrast with +their native blue, white, and brown earths, to which charcoal is +frequently added. + +Their dress is at once simple and commodious. It consists of tight +leggins, reaching near the hip: a strip of cloth or leather, called +assian, about a foot wide, and five feet long, whose ends are drawn +inwards and hang behind and before, over a belt tied round the waist for +that purpose: a close vest or shirt reaching down to the former garment, +and cinctured with a broad strip of parchment fastened with thongs +behind; and a cap for the head, consisting of a piece of fur, or small +skin, with the brush of the animal as a suspended ornament: a kind of +robe is thrown occasionally over the whole of the dress, and serves both +night and day. These articles, with the addition of shoes and mittens, +constitute the variety of their apparel. The materials vary according +to the season, and consist of dressed moose-skin, beaver prepared with +the fur, or European woollens. The leather is neatly painted, and +fancifully worked in some parts with porcupine quills, and moose-deer +hair: the shirts and leggins are also adorned with fringe and tassels; +nor are the shoes and mittens without somewhat of appropriate +decoration, and worked with a considerable degree of skill and taste. +These habiliments are put on, however, as fancy or convenience suggests; +and they will sometimes proceed to the chase in the severest frost, +covered only with the slightest of them. + + +Their head-dresses are composed of the feathers of the swan, the eagle, +and other birds. The teeth, horns, and claws of different animals, are +also the occasional ornaments of the head and neck. Their hair, however +arranged, is always besmeared with grease. The making of every article +of dress is a female occupation; and the women, though by no means +inattentive to the decoration of their own persons, appear to have a +still greater degree of pride in attending to the appearance of the men, +whose faces are painted with more care than those of the women. + +The female dress is formed of the same materials as those of the other +sex, but of a different make and arrangement. Their shoes are commonly +plain, and their leggins gartered beneath the knee. The coat, or body +covering, falls down to the middle of the leg, and is fastened over the +shoulders with cords, a flap or cape turning down about eight inches, +both before and behind, and agreeably ornamented with quill-work and +fringe; the bottom is also fringed, and fancifully painted as high as +the knee. As it is very loose, it is enclosed round the waist with a +stiff belt, decorated with tassels, and fastened behind. The arms are +covered to the wrist, with detached sleeves, which are sewed as far as +the bend of the arm; from thence they are drawn up to the neck, and the +corners of them fall down behind, as low as the waist. The cap, when +they wear one, consists of a certain quantity of leather or cloth, sewed +at one end, by which means it is kept on the head, and, hanging down the +back, is fastened to the belt, as well as under the chin. The upper +garment is a robe like that worn by the men. Their hair is divided on +the crown, and tied behind, or sometimes fastened in large knots over +the ears. They are fond of European articles, and prefer them to their +own native commodities. Their ornaments consist in common with all +savages, in bracelets, rings, and similar baubles. Some of the women +tattoo three perpendicular lines, which are sometimes double: one from +the centre of the chin to that of the under lip, and one parallel on +either side to the corner of the mouth. + +Of all the nations which I have seen on this continent, the Knisteneaux +women are the most comely. Their figure is generally well proportioned, +and the regularity of their features would be acknowledged by the more +civilized people of Europe. Their complexion has less of that dark +tinge which is common to those savages who have less cleanly habits. + +These people are, in general, subject to few disorders. The lues +venera, however, is a common complaint, but cured by the application of +simples, with whose virtues they appear to be well acquainted. They are +also subject to fluxes, and pains in the breast, which some have +attributed to the very keen and cold air which they inhale; but I should +imagine that these complaints must frequently proceed from their +immoderate indulgence in fat meat at their feasts, particularly when +they have been preceded by long fasting. + +They are naturally mild and affable, as well as just in their dealings, +not only among themselves, but with strangers.[2] They are also generous +and hospitable, and good-natured in the extreme, except when their +nature is perverted by the inflammatory influence of spirituous liquors. +To their children they are indulgent to a fault. The father, though he +assumes no command over them, is ever anxious to instruct them in all +the preparatory qualifications for war and hunting; while the mother is +equally attentive to her daughters in teaching them every thing that is +considered as necessary to their character and situation. It does not +appear that the husband makes any distinction between the children of +his wife, though they may be the offspring of different fathers. +Illegitimacy is only attached to those who are born before their mothers +have cohabited with any man by the title of husband. + +It does not appear, that chastity is considered by them as a virtue; or +that fidelity is believed to be essential to the happiness of wedded +life, Though it sometimes happens that the infidelity of a wife is +punished by the husband with the loss of her hair, nose, and perhaps +life; such severity proceeds from its having been practised without his +permission: for a temporary interchange of wives is not uncommon: and +the offer of their persons is considered as a necessary part of the +hospitality due to strangers. + +When a man loses his wife, it is considered as a duty to marry her +sister, if she has one; or he may, if he pleases, have them both at the +same time. + +It will appear from the fatal consequences I have repeatedly imputed to +the use of spirituous liquors that I more particularly consider these +people as having been, morally speaking, great sufferers from their +communication with the subjects of civilized nations. At the same time +they were not, in a state of nature, without their vices, and some of +them of a kind which is the most abhorrent to cultivated and reflecting +man. I shall only observe, that incest and bestiality are among them. + +When a young man marries, he immediately goes to live with the father +and mother of his wife, who treat him, nevertheless, as a perfect +stranger, till after the birth of his first child: he then attaches +himself more to them than his own parents; and his wife no longer gives +him any other denomination than that of the father of her child. + +The profession of the men is war and hunting, and the more active scene +of their duty is the field of battle, and the chase in the woods. They +also spear fish, but the management of the nets is left to the women. +The females of this nation are in the same subordinate state with those +of all other savage tribes, but the severity of their labour is much +diminished by their situation on the banks of lakes and rivers, where +they employ canoes. In the winter, when the waters are frozen, they +make their journeys, which are never of any great length, with sledges +drawn by dogs. They are, at the same time, subject to every kind of +domestic drudgery; they dress the leather, make the clothes and shoes, +weave the nets, collect wood, erect the tents, fetch water, and perform +every culinary service; so that when the duties of maternal care are +added, it will appear, that the life of these women is an uninterrupted +succession of toil and pain. This, indeed, is the sense they entertain +of their own situation; and under the influence of that sentiment, they +are sometimes known to destroy their female children, to save them from +the miseries which they themselves have suffered. They also have a +ready way, by the use of certain simples, of procuring abortions, which +they sometimes practise, from their hatred of the father, or to save +themselves the trouble which children occasion: and, as I have been +credibly informed, this unnatural act is repeated without any injury to +the health of the women who perpetrate it. + +The funeral rites begin, like all other solemn ceremonials, with +smoking, and are concluded by a feast. The body is dressed in the best +habiliments possessed by the deceased, or his relations, and is then +deposited in a grave lined with branches; some domestic utensils are +place on it, and a kind of canopy erected over it. During this +ceremony, great lamentations are made, and if the departed person is +very much regretted, the near relations cut off their hair, pierce the +fleshy part of their thighs and arms with arrows, knives, etc, and +blacken their faces with charcoal. If they have distinguished +themselves in war, they are sometimes laid on a kind of scaffolding; and +I have been informed, that women, as in the East, have been known to +sacrifice themselves to the manes of their husbands. The whole of the +property belonging to the departed person is destroyed, and the +relations take in exchange for the wearing apparel, any rags that will +cover their nakedness. The feast bestowed on the occasion, which is, or +at least used to be, repeated annually, is accompanied with eulogiums on +the deceased, and without any acts of ferocity. On the tomb are carved +or painted the symbols of his tribe, which are taken from the different +animals of the country. + +Many and various are the motives which induce a savage to engage in war. +To prove his courage, or to revenge the death of his relations, or some +of his tribe, by the massacre of an enemy. If the tribe feel themselves +called upon to go to war, the elders convene the people, in order to +know the general opinion. If it be for war, the chief publishes his +intention to smoke in the sacred stem at a certain period, to which +solemnity, meditation and fasting are required as preparatory +ceremonials. When the people are thus assembled, and the meeting +sanctified by the custom of smoking, the chief enlarges on the causes +which have called them together, and the necessity of the measures +proposed on the occasion. He then invites those who are willing to +follow him, to smoke out of the sacred stem, which is considered as the +token of enrolment; and if it should be the general opinion that +assistance is necessary, others are invited, with great formality, to +join them. Every individual who attends these meetings, brings +something with him as a token of his warlike intention, or as an object +of sacrifice, which, when the assembly dissolves, is suspended from +poles near the place of council. + +They have frequent feasts, and particular circumstances never fail to +produce them, such as a tedious illness, long fasting, etc. On these +occasions it is usual for the person who means to give the +entertainment, to announce his design, on a certain day, of opening the +medicine-bag, and smoking out of his sacred stem. This declaration is +considered as a sacred vow that cannot be broken. There are also stated +periods, such as the spring and autumn, when they engage in very long +and solemn ceremonies. On these occasions dogs are offered as +sacrifices, and those which are very fat, and milk-white, are preferred. +They also make large offerings of their property, whatever it may be. +The scene of these ceremonies is in an open inclosure on the bank of a +river or lake, and in the most conspicuous situation, in order that such +as are passing along or travelling, may be induced to make their +offerings. There is also a particular custom among them, that, on these +occasions, if any of the tribe, or even a stranger, should be passing +by, and be in real want of any thing that is displayed as an offering, +he has a right to take it, so that he replaces it with some article he +can spare, though it be of far inferior value; but to take or touch any +thing wantonly is considered as a sacrilegious act, and highly insulting +to the great Master of Life, to use their own expression, who is the +sacred object of their devotion. + +The scene of private sacrifice is the lodge of the person who performs +it, which is prepared for that purpose, by removing every thing out of +it, and spreading green branches in every part. The fire and ashes are +also taken away. A new hearth is made of fresh, earth, and another fire +is lighted. The owner of the dwelling remains alone in it; and he +begins the ceremony by spreading a piece of new cloth, or a well-dressed +moose-skin neatly painted, on which he opens his medicine-bag and +exposes its contents, consisting of various articles. The principal of +them is a kind of household god, which is a small carved image about +eight inches long. Its first covering is of down, over which a piece of +birch-bark is closely tied, and the whole is enveloped in several folds +of red and blue cloth. This little figure is an object of the most +pious regard. The next article is his war-cap, which is decorated with +the feathers and plumes of scarce birds, beavers, and eagle's claws, +etc. There is also suspended from it a quill or feather for every enemy +whom the owner of it has slain in battle. The remaining contents of the +bag are, a piece of Brazil tobacco, several roots and simples, which are +in great estimation for their medicinal qualities, and a pipe. These +articles being all exposed, and the stem resting upon two forks, as it +must not touch the ground, the master of the lodge sends for the person +he most esteems, who sits down opposite to him; the pipe is then filled +and fixed to the stem. A pair of wooden pincers is provided to put the +fire in the pipe, and a double-pointed pin, to empty it of the remnant +of tobacco which is not consumed. This arrangement being made, the men +assemble, and sometimes the women are allowed to be humble spectators, +while the most religious awe and solemnity pervades the whole. The +Michiniwais, or Assistant, takes up the pipe, lights it, and presents it +to the officiating person, who receives it standing and holds it between +both his hands. He then turns himself to the East, and draws a few +whiffs, which he blows to that point. The same ceremony he observes to +the other three quarters, with his eyes directed upwards during the +whole of it. He holds the stem about the middle between the three first +fingers of both hands, and raising them upon a line with his forehead, +he swings it three times round from the East, with the sun, when, after +pointing and balancing it in various directions, he reposes it on the +forks: he then makes a speech to explain the design of their being +called together, which concludes with an acknowledgment for past +mercies, and a prayer for the continuance of them, from the Master of +Life. He then sits down, and the whole company declare their +approbation and thanks by uttering the word _ho!_ with an emphatic +prolongation of the last letter. The Michiniwais then takes up the pipe +and holds it to the mouth of the officiating person, who, after smoking +three whiffs out of it, utters a short prayer, and then goes round with +it, taking his course from East to West, to every person present, who +individually says something to him on the occasion; and thus the pipe is +generally smoked out; when, after turning it three or four times round +his head, he drops it downwards, and replaces it in its original +situation. He then returns the company thanks for their attendance, and +wishes them, as well as the whole tribe, health and long life. + +These smoking rites precede every matter of great importance with more +or less ceremony, but always with equal solemnity. The utility of them +will appear from the following relation. + +If a chief is anxious to know the disposition of his people towards him, +or if he wishes to settle any difference between them, he announces his +intention of opening his medicine-bag and smoking in his sacred stem; +and no man who entertains a grudge against any of the party thus +assembled can smoke with the sacred stem; as that ceremony dissipates +all differences, and is never violated. + +No one can avoid attending on these occasions; but a person may attend +and be excused from assisting at the ceremonies, by acknowledging that +he has not undergone the necessary purification. The having cohabited +with his wife, or any other woman, within twenty-four hours preceding +the ceremony, renders him unclean, and, consequently, disqualifies him +from performing any part of it. If a contract is entered into and +solemnised by the ceremony of smoking, it never fails of being +faithfully fulfilled. If a person, previous to his going a journey, +leaves the sacred stem as a pledge of his return, no consideration +whatever will prevent him from executing his engagement.[3] + +The chief, when he proposes to make a feast, sends quills, or small +pieces of wood, as tokens of invitation to such as he wishes to partake +of it. At the appointed time the guests arrive, each bringing a dish or +platter, and a knife, and take their seats on each side of the chief, +who receives them sitting, according to their respective ages. The pipe +is then lighted, and he makes an equal division of every thing that is +provided. While the company are enjoying their meal, the chief sings, +and accompanies his song with the tambourine, or shishiquoi, or rattle. +The guest who has first eaten his portion is considered as the most +distinguished person. If there should be any who cannot finish the +whole of their mess, they endeavour to prevail on some of their friends +to eat it for them, who are rewarded for their assistance with +ammunition and tobacco. It is proper also to remark, that at these +feasts a small quantity of meat or drink is sacrificed, before they +begin to eat, by throwing it into the fire, or on the earth. + +These feasts differ according to circumstances; sometimes each man's +allowance is no more than he can despatch in a couple of hours. At +other times the quantity is sufficient to supply each of them with food +for a week, though it must be devoured in a day. On these occasions it +is very difficult to procure substitutes, and the whole must be eaten +whatever time it may require. At some of these entertainments there is +a more rational arrangement, when the guests are allowed to carry home +with them the superfluous part of their portions. Great care is always +taken that the bones may be burned, as it would be considered a +profanation were the dogs permitted to touch them. + +The public feasts are conducted in the same manner, but with some +additional ceremony. Several chiefs officiate at them, and procure the +necessary provisions, as well as prepare a proper place of reception for +the numerous company. Here the guests discourse upon public topics, +repeat the heroic deeds of their forefathers, and excite the rising +generation to follow their example. The entertainments on these +occasions consist of dried meats, as it would not be practicable to +dress a sufficient quantity of fresh meat for such a large assembly; +though the women and children are excluded. + +Similar feasts used to be made at funerals, and annually, in honour of +the dead; but they have been, for some time, growing into disuse, and I +never had an opportunity of being present at any of them. + +The women, who are forbidden to enter the places sacred to these +festivals, dance and sing around them, and sometimes beat time to the +music within them; which forms an agreeable contrast. + +With respect to their divisions of time, they compute the length of +their journeys by the number of nights passed in performing them; and +they divide the year by the succession of moons. In this calculation, +however, they are not altogether correct, as they cannot account for the +odd days. + +The names which they give to the names are descriptive of the several +seasons. + + May Atheiky o Pishim Frog Moon. + June Oppinu o Pishim The Moon in which + birds begin to lay + their eggs. + July Aupascen o Pishim The Moon when + birds cast their + feathers. + August Aupahou o Pishim The Moon when + the young birds + begin to fly. + September Waskiscon o Pishim The Moon when + the moose deer + cast their horns. + October Wisac o Pishim The Rutting-Moon. + November Thithigon Pewai Hoar-Frost Moon. + o Pishim + Kuskatinsyoui Ice Moon. + o Pishim + December Pawatchicananasis Whirlwind-Moon. + o Pishim + January Kushapawasticanum Extreme cold + o Pishim Moon. + February Kichi Pishim Big Moon; some + say, Old Moon. + March Mickysue Pishim Eagle Moon. + April Niscaw o Pishim Goose Moon. + +These people know the medicinal virtues of many herbs and simples, and +apply the roots of plants and the bark of trees with success. But the +conjurers, who monopolize the medical science, find it necessary to +blend mystery with their art, and do not communicate their knowledge. +Their materia medica they administer in the form of purges and clysters, +but the remedies and surgical operations are supposed to derive much of +their effect from magic and incantation. When a blister rises in the +foot from the frost, the chafing of the shoe, etc., they immediately +open it, and apply the heated blade of a knife to the part, which, +painful as it may be, is found to be efficacious. A sharp flint serves +them as a lancet for letting blood, as well as for scarification in +bruises and swellings. For sprains, the dung of an animal just killed +is considered as the best remedy. They are very fond of European +medicines, though they are ignorant of their application: and those +articles form an inconsiderable part of the European traffic with them. + +Among their various superstitions, they believe that the vapour which is +seen to hover over moist and swampy places, is the spirit of some person +lately dead. They also fancy another spirit which appears, in the shape +of a man, upon the trees near the lodge of a person deceased, whose +property has not been interred with them. He is represented as bearing +a gun in his hand, and it is believed that he does not return to his +rest, till the property that has been withheld from the grave has been +sacrificed to it. + + +EXAMPLES OF THE KNISTENEAUX AND ALGONQUIN TONGUES. + + Knisteneaux. Algonquin. + Good Spirit Ki jai Manitou Ki jai Manitou. + Evil Spirit Matchi manitou Matchi-manitou. + Man Ethini Inini + Woman Esquois Ich-quois. + Male Nap hew Aquoisi. + Female Non-gense Non-gense. + Infant A' wash ish Abi nont-chen. + Head Us ti quoin O'chiti-goine. + Forehead Es caatick O catick. + Hair Wes ty-ky Winessis. + Eyes Es kis och Oskingick. + Nose Oskiwin O'chengewane. + Nostrils Oo tith ee go mow Ni-de-ni-guom. + Mouth O toune O tonne. + My teeth Wip pit tah Nibit. + Tongue Otaithani O-tai-na-ni. + Beard Michitoune Omichitonn. + Brain With i tip Aba-e winikan. + Ears O tow ee gie O-ta wagane. + Neck O qui ow O'quoi gan. + Throat O koot tas gy Nigon dagane. + Arms O nisk O nic. + Fingers Che chee Ni nid gines. + Nails Wos kos sia Os-kenge. + Side O's spig gy Opikegan. + My back No pis quan Ni-pi quoini. + My belly Nattay Ni my sat. + Thighs O povam Obouame. + My knees No che quoin noh Ni gui tick. + Legs Nos Ni gatte. + Heart Ok thea Othai. + My father Noo ta wie Nossai. + My mother Nigah wei Nigah. + My boy (son) Negousis Nigouisses. + My girl (daughter) Netanis Nidaniss. + My brother, elder Ni stess Nis-a-yen. + My sister, elder Ne miss Nimisain. + My grandfather Ne moo shum Ni-mi-chomiss. + My grandmother N'o kum No-co-miss. + My uncle N' o'ka miss Ni ni michomen. + My nephew Ne too sim Ne do jim. + My niece Ne too sim esquois Ni-do-jim equois + My mother-in-law Nisigouse Ni sigousiss. + My brother-in-law Nistah Nitah. + My companion Ne wechi wagan Ni-wit-chi-wagan. + My husband Ni nap pem Ni na bem. + Blood Mith coo Misquoi. + Old Man Shi nap Aki win se. + I am angry Ne kis si wash en Nis Katissiwine. + I fear Ne goos tow Nisest guse. + Joy Ne hea tha tom Mamond gikisi. + Hearing Pethom Oda wagan. + Track Mis conna Pemi ka wois. + Chief, great ruler Haukimah Kitchi onodis. + Thief Kismouthesk Ke moutiske. + Excrement Meyee Moui. + Buffalo Moustouche Pichike. + Ferret Sigous Shingouss. + Polecat Shicak Shi kak. + Elk Moustouche Michai woi. + Rein deer Attick Atick. + Fellow deer Attick Wa wasquesh. + Beaver Amisk Amic. + Wolverine Qui qua katch Quin quoagki. + Squirrel Ennequachas Otchi ta mou. + Minx Sa quasue Shaugouch. + Otter Nekick Ni guick. + Wolf Mayegan Maygan. + Hare Wapouce Wapouce. + Marten Wappistan Wabichinse. + Moose Mouswah Monse. + Bear Masqua Macqua. + Fisher Wijask Od-jisck. + Lynx Picheu Pechou. + Porcupine Cau quah Kack. + Fox Mikasew Wagouche. + Musk Rat Wajask Wa-jack. + Mouse Abicushiss Wai wa be gou noge. + Cow Buffalo Noshi Moustouche Nochena pichik. + Meat-flesh Wias Wi-ass. + Dog Atim Ani-mouse. + Eagle Makusue Me-guissis. + Duck Sy Sip Shi-sip. + Crow, Corbeau Ca Cawkeu Ka Kak. + Swan Wapiseu Wa-pe-sy. + Turkey Mee sei thew Mississay. + Pheasants Okes kew Ajack. + Bird Pethesew Pi-na-sy. + Outard Niscag Nic kack. + White Goose Wey Wois Woi wois. + Grey Goose Pestasish Pos ta kisk. + Partridge Pithew Pen ainse. + Water Hen Chiquibish Che qui bis. + Dove Omi Mee O mi-mis. + Eggs We Wah Wa Weni. + Pike or Jack Kenonge Kenonge. + Carp Na may bin Na me bine. + Sturgeon Na May Na Maiu. + White fish Aticaming Aticaming. + Pickerel Oc-chaw Oh-ga. + Fish (in general) Kenonge Ki-cons. + Spawn Waquon Wa quock. + Fins Chi chi kan O nidj-igan. + Trout Nay gouse Na Men Gouse. + Craw Fish A shag gee A cha kens chacque. + Frog Atahick O ma ka ki. + Wasp Ah moo A mon. + Turtle Mikinack Mi-ki-nack. + Snake Kinibick Ki nai bick. + Awl Oscajick Ma-gose. + Needle Saboinigan Sha-bo nigan. + Fire steel Appet Scoutecgan + Fire wood Mich-tah Missane. + Cradle Teckinigan Tickina-gan. + Dagger Ta Comagau Na-ba-ke-gou-man. + Arrow Augusk or Atouche Mettic ka nouins. + Fish Hook Quosquipichican Maneton Miquiscan. + Ax Shegaygan Wagagvette. + Ear-bob Chi-kisebisoun Na be chi be soun + Comb Sicahoun Pin ack wan. + Net Athabe Assap. + Tree Mistick Miti-coum. + Wood Mistick Mitic. + Paddle Aboi Aboui. + Canoe Chiman S-chiman. + Birch Rind Wasquoi Wig nass. + Bark Wasquoi On-na-guege. + Touch Wood Pousagan Sa-ga-tagan. + Leaf Nepeshah Ni-biche. + Grass Masquosi Masquosi. + Raspberries Misqui-meinac Misqui meinac. + Strawberries O'-tai-e minac O'-tai-e minac. + Ashes Pecouch Pengoui. + Fire Scou tay Scou tay. + Grapes Shomenac Shomenac. + Fog Pakishihow A Winni. + Mud Asus ki A Shiski. + Currant Kisijiwin Ki si chi woin. + Road Mescanah Mickanan. + Winter Pipoun Pipone. + Island Ministick Miniss. + Lake Sagayigan Sagayigan. + Sun Pisim Kijis. + Moon Tibisca pesim Dibic Kijis + (the night Sun) + Day Kigigah Kigi gatte. + Night Tabisca Dibic kawte. + Snow Counah So qui po. + Rain Kimiwoin Ki mi woini + Drift Pewan Pi-woine. + Hail Shes eagan Me qua mensan. + Ice Mesquaming Me quam. + Frost Aquatin Gas-ga-tin. + Mist Picasyow An-quo-et. + Water Nepec Nipei. + World Messeasky Missi achki. + (all the earth) + Mountain Wachee Watchive. + Sea Kitchi kitchi gaming Kitchi kitchi gaming. + Morning Kequishepe Ki-ki-jep. + Mid-day Abetah quisheik Na ock quoi. + Portage Unygam Ouni-gam. + Spring Menouscaming Mino ka ming. + River Sipee Sipi. + Rapid Bawastick Ba wetick. + Rivulet Sepeesis Sipi wes chin. + Sand Thocaw Ne gawe. + Earth Askee Ach ki. + Star Attack Anang. + Thunder Pithuseu Ni mi ki. + Wind Thoutin No tine. + Calm Athawostin A-no-a-tine. + Heat Quishipoi Aboyce. + Evening Ta kashike O'n-a-guche. + North Kywoitin Ke woitinak. + South Sawena woon Sha-wa-na-wang. + East Coshawcastak Wa-ba-no-no-tine. + West Paquisimow Panguis-chi-mo. + Tomorrow Wabank Wa-bang. + Bone Oskann Oc-kann. + Broth Michim waboi Thaboub. + Feast Ma qua see Wi con qui wine. + Grease or oil Pimis Pimi-tais. + Marrow fat Oscan pimis Oska-pimitais. + Sinew Asstis Attiss. + Lodge Wig-waum Wi-gui-wam. + Bed Ne pa win Ne pai wine. + Within Pendog ke Pendig. + Door Squandam Scouandam. + Dish Othagan O' na gann. + Fort Wasgaigan Wa-kuigan. + Sledge Tabanask Otabanac. + Cincture Poquoatehoun Ketche pisou, + Cap Astotin Pe matinang. + Socks Ashican A chi-gan. + Shirt Papackeweyan Pa pa ki weyan. + Coat Papise-co-wagan Papise-co-wa-gan + Blanket Wape weyang Wape weyan. + Cloth Maneto weguin Maneto weguin. + Thread Assabab Assabab. + Garters Chi ki-bisoon Ni gaske-tase besoun. + Mittens Astissack Medjica wine. + Shoes Maskisin Makisin. + Smoking bag Kusquepetagan Kasquepetagan. + Portage sling Apisan Apican, + Strait on Goi ask Goi-ack. + Medicine Mas ki kee Macki-ki. + Red Mes coh Mes-cowa. + Blue Kasqutch (same O-jawes-cowa. + as black) + White Wabisca Wabisca. + Yellow Saw waw O-jawa. + Green Chibatiquare O'jawes-cowa. + Brown O'jawes-cowa. + Grey, etc. O'jawes-cowa. + Ugly Mache na gouseu Mous-counu-gouse. + Handsome Catawassiseu Nam bissa. + Beautiful Kissi Sawenogan Quoi Natch. + Deaf Nima petom Ka ki be chai. + Good-natured Mithi washin Onichishin. + Pregnant: Paawie And-jioko. + Fat Outhineu Oui-ni-noe. + Big Mushikitee Messha. + Small or little Abisasheu Agu-chin. + Short Chemasish Tackosi. + Skin Wian Wian. + Long Kinwain Kiniwa. + Strong Mascawa |Mache-cawa. + |Mas-cawise. + Coward Sagatahaw Cha-goutai-ye. + Weak Nitha missew Cha-gousi. + Lean Mahta waw Ka wa ca tosa. + Brave Nima Gustaw Son qui taige. + Young man Osquineguish Oskinigui. + Cold Kissin Kissinan. + Hot Kichatai Kicha tai. + Spring Minouscaming Minokaming. + Summer Nibin Nibiqui. + Fall Tagowagonk Tagowag. + One Peyac Pecheik. + Two Nisheu Nige. + Three Nishtou Nis-wois. + Four Neway Ne-au. + Five Ni-annan Na-nan. + Six Negoutawoesic Ni gouta was-wois. + Seven Nish woisic Nigi-was-wois. + Eight Jannanew She was wois. + Nine Shack Shang was wois. + Ten Mitatat Mit-asswois. + Eleven Peyac osap Mitasswois, hachi pecheik. + Twelve Nisheu osap Mitasswois, hachi, nige. + Thirteen Nichtou osap Mitasswois, hachi, niswois. + Fourteen Neway osap Mitasswois, hachi, ne-au. + Fifteen Niannan osap Mitasswois, hachi, nanan. + Sixteen Nigoutawoesic osap Mitasswois, hachi, negoutawaswois. + Seventeen Nish woesic osap Mitasswois, hachi, nigi was-wois. + Eighteen Jannenew osap Mitasgwois, hachi, shiwasswois. + Nineteen Shack osap Mitasswois, hachi, shang as wois. + Twenty Nisheu mitenah Nigeta-nan. + Twenty-one Nishew mitenah Nigeta nan, hachi, pechic. + peyac osap + Twenty-two, etc. Nisheu mitenah + nishew osap + Thirty Nishtou mitenah Niswois mitanan. + Forty Neway mitenah Neau mitanan. + Fifty Niannan mitenah Nanan mitanen. + Sixty Negoutawoisic Nigouta was wois mitanan. + mitenah + Seventy Nishwoisic mitenah Nigi was wois mitanan. + Eighty Jannaeu mitenah She was wois mitanan. + Ninety Shack mitenah Shang was wois mitanan. + Hundred Mitana mitenan Ningoutwack. + Two hundred Neshew mitena a Nige wack. + mitenah + One thousand Mitenah mitena Kitchi-wack. + mitenah + First Nican Nitam. + Last Squayatch Shaquoiyanke. + More Minah Awa-chi min. + Better Athiwack mitha- A wachimin o + washin nichi shen. + Best Atniwack mitha- Kitchi o nichi shin. + washin + I. or me Nitha Nin. + You, or thou Kitha Kin. + They, or them Withawaw Win na wa. + We Nithawaw Nina wa. + My, or mine Nitayen Nida yam. + Your's Kitayan Kitayem. + Who Auoni. + Whom Awoine Kegoi nin. + What Wa + His, or her's Otayan Otayim mis. + All Kakithau Kakenan. + Some, or some few Pey peyac Pe-pichic. + The same Tabescoutch Mi ta yoche. + All the world Missi acki wanque Mishiwai asky. + All the men Kakithaw Ethi nyock Missi Inini wock. + More Mina Mine wa. + Now and then Nannigoutengue. + Sometimes I as-cow-puco + Seldom Wica-ac-ko. + Arrive Ta couchin Ta-gouchin. + Beat Otamaha Packit-ais. + To burn Mistascasoo Icha-quiso. + To sing Nagamoun Nagam. + To cut Kisquishan Qui qui jan. + To hide Catann Caso tawe. + To cover Acquahoun A co na oune. + To believe Taboitam Tai boitam. + To sleep Nepan Ni pann. + To dispute Ke ko mitowock Ki quaidiwine. + To dance Nemaytow Nimic. + To give Mith Mih. + To do Ogitann O-gitoune. + To eat Wissinee Wissiniwin. + To die Nepew Ni po wen. + To forget Winnekiskisew Woi ni mi kaw. + To speak Athimetakcouse Aninntagousse. + To cry (tears) Mantow Ma wi. + To laugh Papew Pa-pe + To set down Nematappe Na matape win. + To walk Pimoutais Pemoussai. + To fall Packisin Panguishin. + To work Ah tus kew Anokeh. + To kill Nipahaw Nishi-woes. + To sell Attawoin Ata wois. + To live Pimatise Pematis. + To see Wabam Wab. + To come Astamoteh Pitta-si-mouss. + Enough Egothigog Mi mi nic. + Cry (tears) Manteau Ambai ma wita. + It hails Shisiagan Sai saigaun. + There is | + There is some | Aya wa Aya wan. + It rains Quimiwoin Qui mi woin. + After to-morrow Awis wabank Awas webang. + To-day Anoutch Non gum. + Thereaway Netoi Awoite. + Much Michett Ni bi wa. + Presently Pichisqua Pitchinac. + Make, heart Quithipeh Wai we be. + This morning Shebas Shai bas. + This night Tibiscag De bi cong. + Above Espiming O kitchiai. + Below Tabassish Ana mai. + Truly Taboiy Ne de wache + Already Sashay Sha shaye. + Yet more Minah Mina wa. + Yesterday Tacoushick Pitchinago. + Far Wathow Wassa. + Near Quishiwoac Paishou. + Never Nima wecatch Ka wi ka. + No Nima Ke wine. + Yes Ah In. + By-and-bye Pa-nima Pa-nima. + Always Ka-ki-kee Ka qui nick + Make haste Quethepeh Niguim. + It's long since Mewaisha Mon wisha. + + +[1] The similarity between their language and that of the Algonquins is +an unequivocal proof that they are the same people. Specimens of their +respective tongues will be hereafter given. + +[2] They have been called thieves, but when that vice can with justice +be attributed to them, it may be traced to their connexion with the +civilized people who come into their country to traffic. + +[3] It is, however, to be lamented, that of late there is a relaxation +of the duties originally attached to these festivals. + + + + +SOME ACCOUNT OF THE CHEPEWYAN INDIANS. + + +They are a numerous people, who consider the country between the +parallels of latitude 60. and 65. North, and longitude 100. to +110. West, as their lands or home. They speak a copious language, which +is very difficult to be attained, and furnishes dialects to the various +emigrant tribes which inhabit the following immense track of country, +whose boundary I shall describe.[1] It begins at Churchill, and runs +along the line of separation between them and the Knisteneaux, up the +Missinipi to the Isle a la Crosse, passing on through the Buffalo Lake, +River Lake, and Portage la Loche: from thence it proceeds by the Elk +River to the Lake of the Hills, and goes directly West to the Peace +River; and up that river to its source and tributary waters; from whence +it proceeds to the waters of the river Columbia; and follows that river +to latitude 52. 24. North, and longitude 122. 54. West, where the +Chepewyans have the Atnah or Chin Nation for their neighbours. It then +takes a line due West to the seacoast, within which, the country is +possessed by a people who speak their language[2] and are consequently +descended from them: there can be no doubt, therefore, of their progress +being to the Eastward. A tribe of them is even known at the upper +establishments on the Saskatchiwine; and I do not pretend to ascertain +how far they may follow the Rocky Mountains to the East. + +It is not possible to form any just estimate of their numbers, but it is +apparent, nevertheless, that they are by no means proportionate to the +vast extent of their territories, which may, in some degree, be +attributed to the ravages of the small-pox, which are, more or less, +evident throughout this part of the continent. + +The notion which these people entertain of the creation, is of a very +singular nature. They believe that, at the first, the globe was one +vast and entire ocean, inhabited by no living creature, except a mighty +bird, whose eyes were fire, whose glances were lightning, and the +clapping of whose wings were thunder. On his descent to the ocean, and +touching it, the earth instantly arose, and remained on the surface of +the waters. This omnipotent bird then called forth all the variety of +animals from the earth, except the Chepewyans, who were produced from a +dog; and this circumstance occasions their aversion to the flesh of that +animal, as well as the people who eat it. This extraordinary tradition +proceeds to relate, that the great bird, having finished his work, made +an arrow, which was to be preserved with great care, and to remain +untouched; but that the Chepewyans were so devoid of understanding, as +to carry it away; and the sacrilege so enraged the great bird, that he +has never since appeared. + +They have also a tradition amongst them, that they originally came from +another country, inhabited by very wicked people, and had traversed a +great lake, which was narrow, shallow, and full of islands, where they +had suffered great misery, it being always winter, with ice and deep +snow. At the Copper-Mine River, where they made the first land, the +ground was covered with copper, over which a body of earth had since +been collected, to the depth of a man's height. They believe, also, +that in ancient times their ancestors lived till their feet were worn +out with walking, and their throats with eating. They describe a +deluge, when the waters spread over the whole earth, except the highest +mountains, on the tops of which they preserved themselves. + +They believe, that immediately after their death, they pass into another +world, where they arrive at a large river, on which they embark in a +stone canoe, and that a gentle current bears them on to an extensive +lake, in the centre of which is a most beautiful island; and that, in +the view of this delightful abode, they receive that judgment for their +conduct during life, which terminates their final state and unalterable +allotment. If their good actions are declared to predominate, they are +landed upon the island, where there is to be no end to-their happiness; +which, however, according to their notions, consists in an eternal +enjoyment of sensual pleasure, and carnal gratification. But if their +bad actions weigh down the balance, the stone canoe sinks at once, and +leaves them up to their chins in the water, to behold and regret the +reward enjoyed by the good, and eternally struggling, but with +unavailing endeavours, to reach the blissful island, from which they are +excluded for ever. + +They have some faint notions of the transmigration of the soul; so that +if a child be born with teeth, they instantly imagine, from its +premature appearance, that it bears a resemblance to some person who had +lived to an advanced period, and that he has assumed a renovated life, +with these extraordinary tokens of maturity. + +The Chepewyans are sober, timorous, and vagrant, with a selfish +disposition that has sometimes created suspicions of their integrity. +Their stature has nothing remarkable in it; but though they are seldom +corpulent, they are sometimes robust. Their complexion is swarthy; +their features coarse, and their hair lank, but always of a dingy black; +nor have they universally the piercing eye, which generally animates the +Indian countenance. The women have a more agreeable aspect than the +men, but their gait is awkward, which proceeds from their being +accustomed, nine months in the year, to travel on snow-shoes and drag +sledges of a weight from two to four hundred pounds. They are very +submissive to their husbands, who have, however, their fits of jealousy; +and, for very trifling causes, treat them with such cruelty as sometimes +to occasion their death. They are frequently objects of traffic; and +the father possesses the right of disposing of his daughter.[3] The men +in general extract their beards, though some of them are seen to prefer +a bushy black beard, to a smooth chin. They cut their hair in various +forms, or leave it in a long, natural flow, according as their caprice +or fancy suggests. The women always wear it in great length, and some +of them are very attentive to its arrangement. If they at any time +appear despoiled of their tresses, it is to be esteemed a proof of the +husband's jealousy, and is considered as a severer punishment than +manual correction. Both sexes have blue or black bars, or from one to +four straight lines on their cheeks or forehead, to distinguish the +tribe to which they belong. These marks are either tattooed, or made by +drawing a thread, dipped in the necessary colour, beneath the skin. + +There are no people more attentive to the comforts of their dress, or +less anxious respecting its exterior appearance. In the winter it is +composed of the skins of deer, and their fawns, and dressed as fine as +any chamois leather, in the hair. In the summer their apparel is the +same, except that it is prepared without the hair. Their shoes and +leggins are sewed together, the latter reaching upwards to the middle, +and being supported by a belt, under which a small piece of leather is +drawn to cover the private parts, the ends of which fall down both +before and behind. In the shoes they put the hair of the moose or +reindeer with additional pieces of leather as socks. The shirt or coat, +when girted round the waist, reaches to the middle of the thigh, and the +mittens are sewed to the sleeves, or are suspended by strings from the +shoulders. A ruff or tippet surrounds the neck, and the skin of the +head of the deer forms a curious kind of cap. A robe, made of several +deer or fawn skins sewed together, covers the whole. This dress is worn +single or double, but always in the winter, with the hair within and +without. Thus arrayed a Chepewyan will lay himself down on the ice in +the middle of a lake, and repose in comfort; though he will sometimes +find a difficulty in the morning to disencumber himself from the snow +drifted on him during the night. If in his passage he should be in want +of provision, he cuts a hole in the ice, when he seldom fails of taking +some trout or pike, whose eyes he instantly scoops out, and eats as a +great delicacy; but if they should not be sufficient to satisfy his +appetite, he will, in this necessity make his meal of the fish in its +raw state; but, those whom I saw, preferred to dress their victuals when +circumstances admitted the necessary preparation. When they are in that +part of their country which does not produce a sufficient quantity of +wood for fuel, they are reduced to the same exigency, though they +generally dry their meat in the sun.[4] + +The dress of the women differs from that of the men. Their leggins are +tied below the knee; and their coat or shift is wide, hanging down to +the ankle, and is tucked up at pleasure by means of a belt, which is +fastened round the waist. Those who have children have these garments +made very full about the shoulders, as when they are travelling they +carry their infants upon their backs, next their skin, in which +situation they are perfectly comfortable and in a position convenient to +be suckled. Nor do they discontinue to give their milk to them till +they have another child. Childbirth is not the object of that tender +care and serious attention among the savages as it is among civilized +people. At this period no part of their usual occupation is omitted, +and this continual and regular exercise must contribute to the welfare +of the mother, both in the progress of parturition and in the moment of +delivery. The women have a singular custom of cutting off a small piece +of the navel string of the new-born children, and hang it about their +necks: they are also curious in the covering they make for it, which +they decorate with porcupine's quills and beads. + +Though the women are as much in the power of the men, as other articles +of their property, they are always consulted, and possess a very +considerable influence in the traffic with Europeans, and other +important concerns. + +Plurality of wives is common among them, and the ceremony of marriage is +of a very simple nature. The girls are betrothed at a very early period +to those whom the parents think the best able to support them: nor is +the inclination of the women considered. Whenever a separation takes +place, which sometimes happens, it depends entirely on the will and +pleasure of the husband. In common with the other Indians of this +country, they have a custom respecting the periodical state of a woman, +which is rigorously observed: at that time she must seclude herself from +society. They are not even allowed in that situation to keep the same +path as the men, when travelling: and it is considered a great breach of +decency for a woman so circumstanced to touch any utensils of manly +occupation. Such a circumstance is supposed to defile them, so that +their subsequent use would be followed by certain mischief or +misfortune. There are particular skins which the women never touch, as +of the bear and wolf; and those animals the men are seldom known to +kill. + +They are not remarkable for their activity as hunters, which is owing to +the ease with which they snare deer and spear fish: and these +occupations are not beyond the strength of their old men, women, and +boys: so that they participate in those laborious occupations, which +among their neighbours are confined to the women. They make war on the +Esquimaux, who cannot resist their superior numbers, and put them to +death, as it is a principle with them never to make prisoners. At the +same time they tamely submit to the Knisteneaux, who are not so numerous +as themselves, when they treat them as enemies. + +They do not affect that cold reserve at meeting, either among themselves +or strangers, which is common with the Knisteneaux, but communicate +mutually, and at once, all the information of which they are possessed. +Nor are they roused like them from an apparent torpor to a state of +great activity. They are consequently more uniform in this respect, +though they are of a very persevering disposition when their interest is +concerned. + +As these people are not addicted to spirituous liquors, they have a +regular and uninterrupted use of their understanding, which is always +directed to the advancement of their own interest; and this disposition, +as may be readily imagined, sometimes occasions them to be charged with +fraudulent habits. They will submit with patience to the severest +treatment, when they are conscious that they deserve it, but will never +forget or forgive any wanton or unnecessary rigour. A moderate conduct +I never found to fail, nor do I hesitate to represent them, altogether, +as the most peaceable tribe of Indians known in North America. + +There are conjurers and high-priests, but I was not present at any of +their ceremonies; though they certainly operate in an extraordinary +manner on the imaginations of the people in the cure of disorders. +Their principal maladies are, rheumatic pains, the flux and consumption. +The venereal complaint is very common; but though its progress is slow, +it gradually undermines the constitution, and brings on premature decay. +They have recourse to superstition for their cure, and charms are their +only remedies, except the bark of the willow, which being burned and +reduced to powder, is strewed upon green wounds and ulcers, and places +contrived for promoting perspiration. Of the use of simples and plants +they have no knowledge; nor can it be expected, as their country does +not produce them. + +Though they have enjoyed so long an intercourse with Europeans, their +country is so barren, as not to be capable of producing the ordinary +necessaries naturally introduced by such a communication and they +continue, in a great measure, their own inconvenient and awkward modes +of taking their game and preparing it when taken. Sometimes they drive +the deer into the small lakes, where they spear them, or force them into +inclosures, where the bow and arrow are employed against them. These +animals are also taken in snares made of skin. In the former instance +the game is divided among those who have been engaged in the pursuit of +it. In the latter it is considered as private property; nevertheless, +any unsuccessful hunter passing by, may take a deer so caught, leaving +the head, skin, and saddle for the owner. Thus, though they have no +regular government, as every man is lord in his own family, they are +influenced, more or less, by certain principles which condone to their +general benefit. + +In their quarrels with each other, they very rarely proceed to a greater +degree of violence than is occasioned by blows, wrestling, and pulling +of the hair, while their abusive language consists in applying the name +of the most offensive animal to the object of their displeasure, and +adding the term ugly, and chiay, or still-born.[5] + +Their arms and domestic apparatus, in addition to the articles procured +from Europeans, are spears, bows, and arrows, fishing nets, and lines +made of green deer-skin thongs. They have also nets for taking the +beaver as he endeavours to escape from his lodge when it is broken open. +It is set in a particular manner for the purpose, and a man is employed +to watch the moment when he enters the snare, or he would soon cut his +way through it. He is then thrown upon the ice where he remains as if +he had no life in him. + +The snow-shoes are of a very superior workmanship. The inner part of +their frame is straight, the outer one is curved, and it is pointed at +both ends, with that in front turned up. They are also laced with great +neatness with thongs made of deer-skin. The sledges are formed of thin +slips of board turned up also in front, and are highly polished with +crooked knives, in order to slide along with facility. Close-grained +wood is, on that account, the best; but theirs are made of the red or +swamp spruce-fir tree. + +The country, which these people claim as their land, has a very small +quantity of earth, and produces little or no wood or herbage. Its chief +vegetable substance is the moss, on which the deer feed; and a kind of +rock moss, which, in times of scarcity, preserves the lives of the +natives. When boiled in water, it dissolves into a clammy, glutinous +substance, that affords a very sufficient nourishment. But, +notwithstanding the barren state of their country, with proper care and +economy, these people might live in great comfort, for the lakes abound +in fish, and the hills are covered with deer. Though, of all the Indian +people of this continent they are considered as the most provident, they +suffer severely at certain seasons, and particularly in the dead of +winter, when they are under the necessity of retiring to their scanty, +stinted woods. To the Westward of them the musk-ox may be found, but +they have no dependence on it as an article of sustenance. There are +also large hares, a few white wolves, peculiar to their country, and +several kinds of foxes, with white and grey partridges, etc. The beaver +and moose-deer they do not find till they come within 60 degrees North +latitude; and the buffalo is still further South. That animal is known +to frequent an higher latitude to the Westward of their country. These +people bring pieces of beautiful variegated marble, which are found on +the surface of the earth. It is easily worked, bears a fine polish, and +hardens with time; it endures heat, and is manufactured into pipes or +calumets, as they are very fond of smoking tobacco; a luxury which the +Europeans communicated to them. + +Their amusements or recreations are but few. Their music is so +inharmonious, and their dancing so awkward, that they might be supposed +to be ashamed of both, as they very seldom practise either. They also +shoot at marks, and play at the games common among them; but in fact +they prefer sleeping to either; and the greater part of their time is +passed in procuring food, and resting from the toil necessary to obtain +it. They are also of a querulous disposition, and are continually +making complaints; which they express by a constant repetition of the +word eduiy, "it is hard," in a whining and plaintive tone of voice. + +They are superstitious in the extreme, and almost every action of their +lives, however trivial, is more or less influenced by some whimsical +notion. I never observed that they had any particular form of religious +worship; but as they believe in a good and evil spirit, and a state of +future rewards and punishments, they cannot be devoid of religious +impressions. At the same time they manifest a decided unwillingness to +make any communications on the subject. + +The Chepewyans have been accused of abandoning their aged and infirm +people to perish, and of not burying their dead; but these are +melancholy necessities, which proceed from their wandering way of life. +They are by no means universal, for it is within my knowledge, that a +man, rendered helpless by the palsy, was carried about for many years, +with the greatest tenderness and attention, till he died a natural +death. That they should not bury their dead in their own country, +cannot be imputed to them as a custom arising from a savage +insensibility, as they inhabit such high latitudes that the ground never +thaws; but it is well known, that when they are in the woods, they cover +their dead with trees. Besides, they manifest no common respect to the +memory of their departed friends, by a long period of mourning, cutting +off their hair, and never making use of the property of the deceased. +Nay, they frequently destroy or sacrifice their own, as a token of +regret and sorrow. + +If there be any people who, from the barren state of their country, +might be supposed to be cannibals by nature, these people, from the +difficulty they, at times, experience in procuring food, might be liable +to that imputation. But, in all my knowledge of them, I never was +acquainted with one instance of that disposition; nor among all the +natives which I met with in a route of five thousand miles, did I see or +hear of an example of cannibalism, but such as arose from that +irresistible necessity, which has been known to impel even the most +civilized people to eat each other. + + +EXAMPLES OF THE CHEPEWYAN TONGUE + + Man Dinnie. + Woman Chequois. + Young man Quelaquis. + Young woman Quelaquis chequoi. + My son Zi azay. + My daughter Zi lengai. + My husband Zi dinnie. + My wife Zi zayunai. + My brother Zi raing. + My father Zi tah. + My mother Zi nah. + My grandfather Zi unai. + Me, or my See. + I Ne. + You Nun. + They Be. + Head Edthie. + Hand Law. + Leg Edthen. + Foot Cuh. + Eyes Nackhay. + Teeth Goo. + Side Kac-hey. + Belly Bitt. + Tongue Edthu. + Hair Thiegah. + Back Losseh. + Blood Dell. + The Knee Cha-gutt. + Clothes or Blanket Etlunay. + Coat Eeh. + Leggin Thell. + Shoes Kinchee. + Robe or Blanket Thuth. + Sleeves Bah. + Mittens Geese. + Cap Sah. + Swan Kagouce. + Duck Keth. + Goose Gah. + White partridge Cass bah. + Grey partridge Deyee. + Buffalo Giddy. + Moose deer Dinyai. + Rein deer Edthun. + Beaver Zah. + Bear Zass. + Otter Gaby-ai. + Martin Thah. + Wolverine Naguiyai. + Wolf Yess (Nouhoay). + Fox Naguethey. + Hare Cah. + Dog Sliengh. + Beaver-skin Zah thah. + Otter skin Naby-ai thith. + Moose-skin Deny-ai thith. + Fat Icah. + Grease Thless. + Meet Bid. + Pike Uldiah. + White-fish Slouey. + Trout Slouey zinai. + Pickerel G'Gah. + Fish-hook Ge-eth. + Fish-line Clulez. + One Slachy. + Two Naghur. + Three Tagh-y. + Four Dengk-y. + Five Sasoulachee. + Six Alki tar-hy-y. + Seven + Eight Alki deing-hy. + Nine Cakina hanoth-na. + Ten Ca noth na. + Twenty Na ghur cha noth na. + Fire Coun. + Water Toue. + Wood Dethkin. + Ice Thun. + Snow Yath. + Rain Thinnelsee. + Lake Touey. + River Tesse. + Mountain Zeth. + Stone Thaih. + Berries Gui-eh. + Hot Edowh. + Cold Edzah. + Island Nouey. + Gun Telkithy, + Powder Telkithy counna. + Knife Bess. + Axe Thynle. + Sun + Moon Sah. + Red Deli couse. + Black Dell zin. + Trade, or barter Na-houn-ny. + Good Leyzong. + Not good Leyzong houlley. + Stinking Geddey. + Bad, ugly Slieney. + Long since Galladinna. + Now, today Ganneh. + Tomorrow Gambeh. + By-and-bye, or presently Garehoulleh. + House, or lodge Cooen. + Canoe Shaluzee. + Door The o ball. + Leather-lodge N'abalay. + Chief Buchahudry. + Mine Zidzy. + His Bedzy. + Yours Nuntzy. + Large Unshaw. + Small, or little Chautah, + I love you Ba eioinichdinh. + I hate you Bucnoinichadinh hillay. + I am to be pitied Est-chounest-hinay. + My relation Sy lod, innay. + Give me water Too hanniltu. + Give me meat Beds-hanniltu. + Give me fish Sloeeh anneltu. + Give me meat to eat Bid Barheether. + Give me water to drink To Barhithen. + It is far off Netha uzany, + Is it not far Nilduay uzany. + It is near Nitha-hillai. + How many Nilduay. + What call you him, or that Etlaneldey. + Come here Etla houllia + Pain, or suffering Yeu dessay. + It's hard I-yah. + You lie Untzee. + What then Eldaw-gueh. + + +[1] Those of them who come to trade with us, do not exceed eight hundred +men, and have a smattering of the Knisteneau tongue, in which they carry +on their dealings with us. + +[2] The coast is inhabited on the North-West by the Eskimaux, and on the +Pacific Ocean by a people different from both. + +[3] They do not, however, sell them as slaves, but as companions to +those who are supposed to live more comfortably than themselves. + +[4] The provision called pemmican, on which the Chepewyans, as well as +the other savages of this country, chiefly subsist in their journeys, is +prepared in the following manner: The lean parts of the flesh of the +larger animals are cut in thin slices, and are placed on a wooden grate +over a slow fire, or exposed to the sun, and sometimes to the frost. +These operations dry it, and in that state it is pounded between two +stones; it will then keep with care for several years. If, however, it +is kept in large quantities, it is disposed to ferment in the spring of +the year, when it must be exposed to the air, or it will soon decay. +The inside fat, and that of the rump, which is much thicker in these +wild than our domestic animals, is melted down and mixed, in a boiling +state with the pounded meat, in equal proportions: it is then put in +baskets or bags for the convenience of carrying it. Thus it becomes a +nutritious food, and is eaten, without any further preparation, or the +addition of spice, salt, or any vegetable or farinaceous substance. A +little time reconciles it to the palate. There is another sort made +with the addition of marrow and dried berries, which is of a superior +quality. + +[5] This name is also applicable to the foetus of an animal, when +killed, which is considered as one of the greatest delicacies. + + + + +JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE, &c. + + +CHAPTER I. + + +JUNE, 1789. + +_Wednesday, 3._--We embarked at nine in the morning, at +Fort Chepewyan, on the South side of the Lake of the Hills, in latitude +58. 40. North, and longitude 110. 30. West from Greenwich, and compass +has sixteen degrees variation East, in a canoe made of birch bark. The +crew consisted of four Canadians, two of whom were attended by their +wives, and a German; we were accompanied also by an Indian, who had +acquired the title of English Chief, and his two wives, in a small +canoe, with two young Indians; his followers in another small canoe. +These men were engaged to serve us in the twofold capacity of +interpreters and hunters. This chief has been a principal leader of his +countrymen who were in the habit of carrying furs to Churchill Factory, +Hudson's Bay, and till of late very much attached to the interest of +that company. These circumstances procured him the appellation of the +English Chief. + +We were also accompanied by a canoe that I had equipped for the purpose +of trade, and given the charge of it to M. Le Roux, one of the Company's +clerks. In this I was obliged to ship part of our provision; which, +with the clothing necessary for us on the voyage, a proper assortment of +the articles of merchandise as presents, to ensure us a friendly +reception among the Indians, and the ammunition and arms requisite for +defence, as well as a supply for our hunters, were more than our own +canoe could carry, but by the time we should part company, there was +every reason to suppose that our expenditure would make sufficient room +for the whole. + +We proceeded twenty-one miles to the West, and then took a course of +nine miles to North-North-West, when we entered the river, or one of the +branches of the lake, of which there are several. We then steered North +five miles, when our course changed for two miles to North-North-East, +and here at seven in the evening we landed and pitched our tents. One +of the hunters killed a goose, and a couple of ducks: at the same time +the canoe was taken out of the water, to be gummed, which necessary +business was effectually performed. + + +_Thursday, 4._--We embarked at four this morning, and proceeded +North-North-East half a mile, North one mile and a half, West two miles, +North-West two miles, West-North-West one mile and a half, +North-North-West half a mile, and West-North-West two miles, when this +branch loses itself in the Peace River. It is remarkable, that the +currents of these various branches of the lake, when the Peace River is +high, as in May and August, run into the lake, which, in the other +months of the year returns its waters to them; whence, to this place, +the branch is not more than two hundred yards wide, nor less than an +hundred and twenty. The banks are rather low, except in one place, +where an huge rock rises above them, The low land is covered with wood, +such as white birch, pines of different kinds, with the poplar, three +kinds of willow, and the liard. + +The Peace River is upwards of a mile broad at this spot, and its current +is stronger than that of the channel which communicates with the lake. +It here, indeed, assumes the name of the Slave River.[1] The course of +this day was as follows:--North-West two miles, North-North-West, +through islands, six miles, North four miles and a half, North by East +two miles, West by North six miles, North one mile, North-East by East +two miles, North one mile. We now descended a rapid, and proceeded +North-West seven miles and a half, North-West nine miles, North by West +six miles, North-West by West one mile and a half, North-West by North +half a mile, North-North-West six miles, North one mile, North-West by +West four miles, North-North-East one mile. Here we arrived at the +mouth of the Dog River, where we landed, and unloaded our canoes, at +half past seven in the evening, on the East side, and close by the +rapids. At this station the river is near two leagues in breadth. + + +_Friday, 5._--At three o'clock in the morning we embarked, but +unloaded our canoes at the first rapid. When we had reloaded, we +entered a small channel, which is formed by the islands, and, in about +half an hour, we came to the carrying-place It is three hundred and +eighty paces in length, and very commodious, except at the further end +of it. We found some difficulty in reloading at this spot, from the +large quantity of ice which had not yet thawed. From hence to the next +carrying-place, called the _Portage d'Embarras_, is about six miles, and +is occasioned by the drift wood filling up the small channel, which is +one thousand and twenty paces in length; from hence to the next is one +mile and a half, while the distance to that which succeeds, does not +exceed one hundred and fifty yards. It is about the same length as the +last; and from hence to the carrying-place called the Mountain, is about +four miles further; when we entered the great river. The smaller one, +or the channel, affords by far the best passage, as it is without hazard +of any kind; though I believe a shorter course would be found on the +outside of the islands, and without so many carrying-places. That +called the Mountain is three hundred and thirty-five paces in length; +from thence to the next, named the Pelican, there is about a mile of +dangerous rapids. The landing is very steep, and close to the fall. +The length of this carrying-place is eight hundred and twenty paces. + +The whole of the party were now employed in taking the baggage and the +canoe up the hill. One of the Indian canoes went down the fall, and was +dashed to pieces. The woman who had the management of it, by quitting +it in time, preserved her life, though she lost the little property it +contained. + +The course from the place we quitted in the morning is about North-West, +and comprehends a distance of fifteen miles. From hence to the next and +last carrying-place, is about nine miles; in which distance there are +three rapids: course North-West by West. The carrying path is very bad, +and five hundred and thirty-five paces in length. Our canoes being +lightened, passed on the outside of the opposite island, which rendered +the carrying of the baggage very short indeed, being not more than the +length of a canoe. In the year 1786, five men were drowned, and two +canoes and some packages lost, in the rapids on the other side of the +river, which occasioned this place to be called the _Portage des Noyes_. +They were proceeding to the Slave Lake, in the fall of that year, under +the direction of Mr. Cuthbert Grant. We proceeded from hence six miles, +and encamped on Point de Roche, at half past five in the afternoon. The +men and Indians were very much fatigued; but the hunters had provided +seven geese, a beaver, and four ducks. + + +_Saturday, 6._--We embarked at half past two in the morning, and +steered North-West by North twenty-one miles, North-West by West five +miles, West-North-West four miles, West six miles, doubled a point +North-North-East one mile, East five miles, North two miles, North-West +by North one mile and a half, West-North-West three miles, North-East by +East two miles; doubled a point one mile and a half, West by North nine +miles, North-West by West six miles, North-North-West five miles; here +we landed at six o'clock in the evening, unloaded, and encamped. Nets +were also set in a small adjacent river. We had an head wind during the +greater part of the day and the weather was become so cold that the +Indians were obliged to make use of their mittens. In this day's +progress we killed seven geese and six ducks. + + +_Sunday, 7._--At half past three we renewed our voyage, and proceeded +West-North-West one mile, round an island one mile, North-West two miles +and a half, South by West three miles, West-South-West one mile, +South-West by South half a mile, North-West three miles, West-North-West +three miles and a half, North seven miles and a half, North-West by +North four miles, North two miles and a half, North-West by North two +miles. The rain, which had prevailed for some time, now came on with +such violence, that we were obliged to land and unload, to prevent the +goods and baggage from getting wet; the weather, however, soon cleared +up, so that we reloaded the canoe, and got under way. We now continued +our course North ten miles, West one mile and a half, and North one mile +and a half, when the rain came on again, and rendered it absolutely +necessary for us to get on shore for the night, at about half past +three. We had a strong North-North-East wind throughout the day, which +greatly impeded us; M. Le Roux, however, with his party, passed on in +search of a landing place more agreeable to them. The Indians killed a +couple of geese, and as many ducks. The rain continued through the +remaining part of the day. + + +_Monday, 8._--The night was very boisterous, and the rain did not +cease till two in the afternoon of this day; but as the wind did not +abate of its violence, we were prevented from proceeding till the +morrow. + + +_Tuesday, 9._--We embarked at half past two in the morning, the +weather being calm and foggy. Soon after our two young men joined us, +whom we had not seen for two days; but during their absence they had +killed four beavers and ten geese. After a course of one mile +North-West by North, we observed an opening on the right, which we took +for a fork of the river, but it proved to be a lake. We returned and +steered South-West by West one mile and a half, West-South-West one mile +and a half, West one mile, when we entered a very small branch of the +river on the East bank; at the mouth of which I was informed there had +been a carrying-place, owing to the quantity of drift wood, which then +filled up the passage, but has since been carried away. The course of +this river is meandering, and tends to the North, and in about ten miles +falls into the Slave Lake, where we arrived at nine in the morning, when +we found a great change in the weather, as it was become extremely cold. +The lake was entirely covered with ice, and did not seem in any degree +to have given way, but near the shore. The gnats and mosquitoes, which +were very troublesome during our passage along the river, did not +venture to accompany us to this colder region. + +The banks of the river both above and below the rapids, were on both +sides covered with the various kinds of wood common to this country, +particularly the Western side; the land being lower and consisting of a +rich black soil. This artificial ground is carried down by the stream, +and rests upon drift wood, so as to be eight or ten feet deep. The +eastern banks are more elevated, and the soil a yellow clay mixed with +gravel; so that the trees are neither so large or numerous as on the +opposite shore. The ground was not thawed above fourteen inches in +depth; notwithstanding the leaf was at its full growth; while along the +lake there was scarcely any appearance of verdure. + +The Indians informed me, that, at a very small distance from either bank +of the river, are very extensive plains, frequented by large herds of +buffaloes; while the moose and rein-deer keep in the woods that border +on it. The beavers, which are in great numbers, build their habitations +in the small lakes and rivers, as, in the larger streams, the ice +carries every thing along with it, during the spring. The mud-banks in +the river are covered with wild fowl; and we this morning killed two +swans, ten geese, and one beaver, without suffering the delay of an +hour; so that we might have soon filled the canoe with them, if that had +been our object. + +From the small river we steered East, along the inside of a long +sand-bank, covered with drift wood and enlivened by a few willows, which +stretches on as far as the houses erected by Messrs. Grant and Le Roux, +in 1786. We often ran aground, as for five successive miles the depth +of the water nowhere exceeded three feet. There we found our people, +who had arrived early in the morning, and whom we had not seen since the +preceding Sunday. We now unloaded the canoe, and pitched our tents, as +there was every appearance that we should be obliged to remain here for +some time. I then ordered the nets to be set, as it was absolutely +necessary that the stores provided for our future voyage should remain +untouched. The fish we now caught were carp, poisson inconnu, white +fish, and trout. + + +_Wednesday, 10._--It rained during the greatest part of the preceding +night, and the weather did not clear up till the afternoon of this day. +This circumstance had very much weakened the ice, and I sent two of the +Indians on an hunting party to a lake at the distance of nine miles, +which, they informed me, was frequented by animals of various kinds. +Our fishery this day was not so abundant as it had been on the preceding +afternoon. + + +_Thursday, 11._--The weather was fine and clear with a strong westerly +wind. The women were employed in gathering berries of different sorts, +of which there are a great plenty; and I accompanied one of my people to +a small adjacent island, where we picked up some dozens of swan, geese, +and duck-eggs; we also killed a couple of ducks and a goose. + +In the evening the Indians returned, without having seen any of the +larger animals. A swan and a grey crane were the only fruits of their +expedition. We caught no other fish but a small quantity of pike, which +is too common to be a favourite food with the people of the country, The +ice moved a little to the eastward. + + +_Friday, 12._--The weather continued the same as yesterday, and the +mosquitoes began to visit us in great numbers. The ice moved again in +the same direction, and I ascended an hill, but could not perceive that +it was broken in the middle of the lake. The hunters killed a goose and +three ducks. + + +_Saturday, 13._--The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable +till about sunset, when it settled in the North. It drove back the ice +which was now very much broken along the shore, and covered our nets. +One of the hunters who had been at the Slave River the preceding +evening, returned with three beavers and fourteen geese. He was +accompanied by three families of Indians, who left Athabasca the same +day as myself: they did not bring me any fowl; and they pleaded in +excuse, that they had travelled with so much expedition, as to prevent +them from procuring sufficient provisions for themselves. By a meridian +line, I found the variation of the compass to be about twenty degrees +East. + + +_Sunday, 14._--The weather was clear and the wind remained in the same +quarter. The ice was much broken, and driven to the side of the lake, +so that we were apprehensive for the loss of our nets, as they could +not, at present, be extricated. At sunset there was an appearance of a +violent gust of wind from the southward, as the sky became on a sudden, +in that quarter, of a very dusky blue colour, and the lightning was very +frequent. But instead of wind there came on a very heavy rain, which +promised to diminish the quantity of broken ice. + + +_Monday, 15._--In the morning, the bay still continued to be so full +of ice, that we could not get at our nets. About noon, the wind veered +to the Westward, and not only uncovered the nets, but cleared a passage +to the opposite islands. When we raised the nets we found them very +much shattered, and but few fish taken. We now struck our tents, and +embarked at sunset, when we made the traverse, which was about eight +miles North-East by North, in about two hours. At half-past eleven +P. M. we landed on a small island and proceeded to gum the canoe. At +this time the atmosphere was sufficiently clear to admit of reading or +writing without the aid of artificial light. We had not seen a star +since the second day after we left Athabasca. About twelve o'clock, the +moon made its appearance above the tops of the trees, the lower horn +being in a state of eclipse, which continued for about six minutes, in a +cloudless sky. + +I took soundings three times in the course of the traverse, when I found +six fathoms water, with a muddy bottom. + + +_Tuesday, 16._--We were prevented from embarking this morning by +a very strong wind from the North, and the vast quantity of floating +ice. Some trout were caught with the hook and line, but the net was not +so successful. I had an observation which gave 61. 28. North latitude. + +The wind becoming moderate, we embarked about one, taking a North-West +course, through islands of ten miles, in which we took in a considerable +quantity of water. After making several traverses, we landed at five +P. M., and having pitched our tents, the hooks, lines, and nets were +immediately set. During the course of the day there was occasional +thunder. + + +_Wednesday, 17._--We proceeded, and taking up our nets as we passed, +we found no more than seventeen fish, and were stopped within a mile by +the ice. The Indians, however, brought us back to a point where our +fishery was very successful. They proceeded also on a hunting party, as +well as to discover a passage among the islands; but at three in the +afternoon they returned without having succeeded in either object. We +were, however, in expectation, that, as the wind blew very strong, it +would force a passage. About sunset, the weather became overcast, with +thunder, lightning, and rain. + + +_Thursday, 18._--The nets were taken up at four this morning with +abundance of fish, and we steered North-West four miles, where the ice +again prevented our progress. A South-East wind drove it among the +islands, in such a manner as to impede our passage, and we could +perceive at some distance ahead, that it was but little broken. We now +set our nets in four fathom water. Two of our hunters had killed a +rein-deer and its fawn. They had met with two Indian families, and in +the evening, a man belonging to one of them, paid us a visit; he +informed me, that the ice had not, stirred on the side of the island +opposite to us. These people live entirely on fish, and were waiting to +cross the lake as soon as it should be clear of ice. + + +_Friday, 19._--This morning our nets were unproductive, as they +yielded us no more than six fish, which were of a very bad kind. In the +forenoon, the Indians proceeded to the large island opposite to us, in +search of game. The weather was cloudy, and the wind changeable; at the +same time, we were pestered by mosquitoes, though, in a great measure, +surrounded with ice. + + +_Saturday, 20._--We took up our nets, but without any fish. It rained +very hard during the night and this morning: nevertheless, M. Le Roux +and his people went back to the point which we had quitted on the 18th, +but I did not think it prudent to move. As I was watching for a passage +through the ice, I promised to send for them when I could obtain it. It +rained at intervals till about five o'clock; when we loaded our canoe, +and steered for the large island, West six miles. When we came to the +point of it, we found a great quantity of ice; we, however, set our +nets, and soon caught plenty of fish. In our way thither we met our +hunters, but they had taken nothing. I took soundings at an hundred +yards from the island, when we were in twenty-one fathom water. Here we +found abundance of cranberries and small spring onions. I now +despatched two men for M. Le Roux, and his people. + + +_Sunday, 21._--A Southerly wind blew through the night, and drove the +ice to the Northward. The two men whom I had sent to M. Le Roux, +returned at eight this morning; they parted with him at a small distance +from us, but the wind blew so hard, that he was obliged to put to shore. +Having a glimpse of the sun, when it was twelve by my watch, I found the +latitude 61. 34. North latitude. At two in the afternoon, M. Le Roux and +his people arrived. At five, the ice being almost all driven past to +the Northward, we accordingly embarked, and steered West fifteen miles, +through much broken ice, and on the outside of the islands, though it +appeared to be very solid to the North-East. I sounded three times in +this distance, and found it seventy-five, forty-four, and sixty fathom +water. We pitched our tents on one of a cluster of small islands that +were within three miles of the main land, which we could not reach in +consequence of the ice. + +We saw some rein-deer on one of these islands, and our hunters went in +pursuit of them, when they killed five large and two small ones, which +was easily accomplished, as the animals had no shelter to which they +could run for protection. They had, without doubt, crossed the ice to +this spot, and the thaw coming on had detained them there, and made them +an easy prey to the pursuer. This island was accordingly named Isle de +Carreboeuf. + +I sat up the whole of this night to observe the setting and rising of +the sun. That orb was beneath the horizon four hours twenty-two +minutes, and rose North 20. East by compass. It, however, froze so +hard, that, during the sun's disappearance, the water was covered with +ice half a quarter of an inch thick. + + +_Monday, 22._--We embarked at half past three in the morning, and +rounding the outside of the islands, steered North-West thirteen miles +along the ice, edging in for the main land, the wind West, then West two +miles; but it blew so hard as to oblige us to land on an island at half +past nine, from whence we could just distinguish land to the South-East, +at the distance of about twelve leagues; though we could not determine +whether it was a continuation of the islands, or the shores of the +lake.[2] I took an observation at noon, which gave me 61. 53. North, +the variation of the compass being, at the same time, about two points. +M. Le Roux's people having provided two bags of _pemmican_.[3] to be +left in the island against their return; it was called _Isle a la +Cache_. + +The wind being moderated, we proceeded again at half past two in the +afternoon, and steering West by North among the islands, made as course +of eighteen miles. We encamped at eight o'clock on a small island, and +since eight in the morning had not passed any ice. Though the weather +was far from being warm, we were tormented, and our rest interrupted, by +the host of mosquitoes that accompanied us. + + +[1] The Slave Indians, having been driven from their original country by +their enemies, the Knisteneaux, along the borders of this part of the +river, it received that title, though it by no means involves the idea +of servitude, but was given to these fugitives as a term of reproach, +that denoted more than common savageness. + +[2] Sometimes the land looms, so that there may be a great deception as +to the distance; and I think this was the case at present. + +[3] Flesh dried in the sun, and afterwards pounded for the convenience +of carriage. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +JUNE, 1789. + +_Tuesday, 23._--Towards morning, the Indians who had not been able to +keep up with us the preceding day, now joined us, and brought two swans +and a goose. At half past three we re-embarked, and steering West by +North a mile and and half, with a Northerly wind, we came to the foot of +a traverse across a deep bay, West five miles, which receives a +considerable river at the bottom of it; the distance about twelve miles. +The North-West side of the bay was covered with many small islands that +were surrounded with ice; but the wind driving it a little off the land, +we had a clear passage on the inside of them. We steered South-West +nine miles under sail, then North-West nearly, through the islands, +forming a course of sixteen miles. We landed on the main land at half +past two in the afternoon at three lodges of Red-Knife Indians, so +called from their copper knives. They informed us, that there were many +more lodges of their friends at no great distance; and one of the +Indians set off to fetch them: they also said, that we should see no +more of them at present; as the Slave and Beaver Indians, as well as +others of the tribe, would not be here till the time that the swans cast +their feathers. In the afternoon it rained a torrent. + + +_Wednesday, 24._--M. Le Roux purchased of these Indians upwards of +eight packs of good beaver and marten skins; and there were not above +twelve of them qualified to kill beaver. The English chief got upwards +of an hundred skins on the score of debts due to him, of which he had +many outstanding in this country. Forty of them he gave on account of +debts due by him since the winters of 1786 and 1787, at the Slave Lake; +the rest he exchanged for rum and other necessary articles; and I added +a small quantity of that liquor as an encouraging present to him and his +young men. I had several consultations with these Copper Indian people, +but could obtain no information that was material to our expedition; nor +were they acquainted with any part of the river, which was the object of +my research, but the mouth of it. In order to save as much time as +possible in circumnavigating the bays, I engaged one of the Indians to +conduct us; and I accordingly equipped him with various articles of +clothing, etc. I also purchased a large new canoe, that he might embark +with the two young Indians in my service. + +This day, at noon, I took an observation, which gave me 62. 24. North +latitude; the variation of the compass being about twenty-six or +twenty-seven degrees to the East. + +In the afternoon I assembled the Indians, in order to inform them that I +should take my departure on the following day; but that people would +remain on the spot till their countrymen, whom they had mentioned, +should arrive; and that, if they brought a sufficient quantity of skins +to make it answer, the Canadians would return for more goods, with a +view to winter here, and build a fort,[1] which would be continued as +long as they should be found to deserve it. They assured me that it +would be a great encouragement to them to have a settlement of ours in +their country; and that they should exert themselves to the utmost to +kill beaver, as they would then be certain of getting an adequate value +for them. Hitherto, they said, the Chepewyans always pillaged them; or, +at most, gave little or nothing for the fruits of their labour, which +had greatly discouraged them; and that, in consequence of this +treatment, they had no motive to pursue the beaver, but to obtain a +sufficient quantity of food and raiment. + +I now wrote to Messrs. Macleod and Mackenzie, and addressed my papers to +the former, at Athabasca. + + +_Thursday, 25._--We left this place at three this morning, our canoe +being deeply laden, as we had embarked some packages that had come in +the canoes of M. Le Roux. We were saluted on our departure with some +volleys of small arms, which we returned, and steered South by West +straight across the bay, which is here no more than two miles and a half +broad, but, from the accounts of the natives, it is fifteen leagues in +depth, with a much greater breadth in several parts, and full of +islands. I sounded in the course of the traverse and found six fathoms +with a sandy bottom. Here, the land has a very different appearance +from that on which we have been since we entered the lake. Till we +arrived here there was one continued view of high hills and islands of +solid rock, whose surface was occasionally enlivened with moss, shrubs, +and a few scattered trees, of a very stinted growth, from an +insufficiency of soil to nourish them. But, notwithstanding their +barren appearance, almost every part of them produces berries of various +kinds, such as cranberries, juniper berries, raspberries, partridge +berries, gooseberries, and the pathegomenan, which is something like a +raspberry; it grows on a small stalk about a foot and a half high, in +wet, mossy spots. These fruits are in great abundance, though they are +not to be found in the same places, but in situations and aspects suited +to their peculiar natures. + +The land which borders the lake in this part is loose and sandy, but is +well covered with wood, composed of trees of a larger growth: it +gradually rises from the shore, and at some distance forms a ridge of +high land running along the coast, thick with wood and a rocky summit +rising above it. + +We steered South-South-East nine miles, when we were very much +interrupted by drifting ice, and with some difficulty reached an island, +where we landed at seven. I immediately proceeded to the further part +of it, in order to discover if there was any probability of our being +able to get from thence in the course of the day. It is about five +miles in circumference, and I was very much surprised to find that the +greater part of the wood with which it was formerly covered, had been +cut down within twelve or fifteen years, and that the remaining stumps +were become altogether rotten. On making inquiry concerning the cause +of this extraordinary circumstance, the English chief informed me, that +several winters ago, many of the Slave Indians inhabited the islands +that were scattered over the bay, as the surrounding waters abound with +fish throughout the year, but that they had been driven away by the +Knisteneaux, who continually made war upon them. If an establishment is +to be made in this country, it must be in the neighbourhood of this +place, on account of the wood and fishery. + +At eleven we ventured to re-embark, as the wind had driven the greatest +part of the ice past the island, though we still had to encounter some +broken pieces of it, which threatened to damage our canoe. We steered +South-East from point to point across five bays, twenty-one miles. We +took soundings several times, and found from six to ten fathom water. I +observed that the country gradually descended inland, and was still +better covered with wood than in the higher parts.--Wherever we +approached the land, we perceived deserted lodges, The hunters killed +two swans and a beaver; and at length we landed at eight o'clock in the +evening, when we unloaded and gummed our canoe. + + +_Friday, 26._--We continued our route at five o'clock, steering +South-East for ten miles across two deep bays; then South-South-East, +with islands in sight to the Eastward. We then traversed another bay in +a course of three miles, then South one mile to a point which we named +the Detour, and South-South-West four miles and an half, when there was +an heavy swell of the lake. Here I took an observation, when we were in +61. 40. North latitude We then proceeded South-West four miles, and +West-South-West among islands: on one of which our Indians killed two +rein-deer, but we lost three hours aft wind in going for them: this +course was nine miles. About seven in the evening we were obliged to +land for the night, as the wind became too strong from the South-East. +We thought we could observe land in this direction when the wind was +coming on from some distance. On the other side of the Detour, the land +is low, and the shore is flat and dangerous, there being no safe place +to land in bad weather, except in the islands which we had just passed. +There seemed to be plenty of moose and rein-deer in this country, as we +saw their tracks wherever we landed. There are also great numbers of +white partridges, which were at this season of a grey colour, like that +of the moor-fowl. There was some floating ice in the lake, and the +Indians killed a couple of swans. + + +_Saturday, 27._--At three this morning we were in the canoe, after +having passed a very restless night from the persecution of the +mosquitoes The weather was fine and calm, and our course West-South-West +nine miles, when we came to the foot of a traverse, the opposite point +in sight bearing South-West, distance twelve miles. The bay is at least +eight miles deep, and this course two miles more, in all ten miles. It +now became very foggy, and as the bays were so numerous, we landed for +two hours, when the weather cleared up, and we took the advantage of +steering South thirteen miles, and passed several small bays, when we +came to the point of a very deep one, whose extremity was not +discernible; the land bearing South from us, at the distance of about +ten miles. Our guide not having been here for eight winters, was at a +loss what course to take, though as well as he could recollect, this bay +appeared to be the entrance of the river. Accordingly, we steered down +it, about West-South-West, till we were involved in a field of broken +ice. We still could not discover the bottom of the bay, and a fog +coming on, made it very difficult for us to get to an island to the +South-West, and it was nearly dark when we effected a landing. + + +_Sunday, 28._--At a quarter past three we were again on the water, and +as we could perceive no current setting into this bay, we made the best +of our way to the point that bore South from us yesterday afternoon. We +continued our course South three miles more, South by West seven miles, +West fifteen miles, when by observation we were in 61 degrees North +latitude; we then proceeded West-North-West two miles. Here we came to +the foot of a traverse, the opposite land bearing South-West, distance +fourteen miles, when we steered into a deep bay, about a westerly +course; and though we had no land ahead in sight, we indulged the hope +of finding a passage, which, according to the Indian, would conduct us +to the entrance of the river. + +Having a strong wind aft, we lost sight of the Indians, nor could we put +on shore to wait for them, without risking material damage to the canoe, +till we ran to the bottom of the bay, and were forced among the rushes; +when we discovered that there was no passage there. In about two or +three hours they joined us, but would not approach our fire, as there +was no good ground for an encampment: they emptied their canoe of the +water which it had taken in, and continued their route, but did not +encamp till sunset The English chief was very much irritated against the +Red-Knife Indian, and even threatened to murder him, for having +undertaken to guide us in a course of which he was ignorant, nor had we +any reason to be satisfied with him, though he still continued to +encourage us, by declaring that he recollected having passed from the +river, through the woods, to the place where he had landed. In the +blowing weather to-day, we were obliged to make use of our large kettle, +to keep our canoe from filling, although we did not carry above three +feet sail. The Indians very narrowly escaped. + + +_Monday, 29._--We embarked at four this morning, and steered along the +South-West side of the bay. At half past five we reached the extremity +of the point, which we doubled, and found it to be the branch or passage +that was the object of our search, and occasioned by a very long island, +which separates it from the main channel of the river. It is about half +a mile across, and not more than six feet in depth; the water appeared +to abound in fish, and was covered with fowl, such as swans, geese, and +several kinds of ducks, particularly black ducks, that were very +numerous, but we could not get within gun shot of them. + +The current, though not very strong, set us South-West by West, and we +followed this course fourteen miles, till we passed the point of the +long island, where the Slave Lake discharges itself, and is ten miles in +breadth. There is not more than from five to two fathom water, so that +when the lake is low, it may be presumed the greatest part of this +channel must be dry. The river now turns to the Westward, becoming +gradually narrower for twenty-four miles, till it is not more than half +a mile wide; the current, however, is then much stronger, and the +sounding were three fathom and a half. The land on the North shore from +the lake is low, and covered with trees; that to the South is much +higher, and has also an abundance of wood. The current is very strong, +and the banks are of an equal height on both sides, consisting of a +yellow clay, mixed with small stones; they are covered with large +quantities of burned wood, lying on the ground, and young poplar trees, +that have sprung up since the fire that destroyed the larger wood. It +is a very curious and extraordinary circumstance, that land covered with +spruce pine, and white birch, when laid waste by fire, should +subsequently produce nothing but poplars, where none of that species of +tree were previously to be found. + +A stiff breeze from the Eastward drove us on at a great rate under sail, +in the same course, though obliged to wind among the islands. We kept +the North channel for about ten miles, whose current is much stronger +than that of the South; so that the latter is consequently the better +road to come up. Here the river widened, and the wind dying away, we +had recourse to our paddles. We kept our course to the North-West, on +the North side of the river, which is here much wider, and assumes the +form of a small lake; we could not, however, discover an opening in any +direction, so that we were at a loss what course to take, as our +Red-Knife Indian had never explored beyond our present situation. He at +the same time informed us that a river falls in from the North, which +takes its rise in the Horn Mountain, now in sight, which is the country +of the Beaver Indians; and that he and his relations frequently meet on +that river. He also added, that there are very extensive plains on both +sides of it, which abound in buffaloes and moose deer. + +By keeping this course, we got into shallows, so that we were forced to +steer to the left, till we recovered deep water, which we followed till +the channel of the river opened on us to the southward, we now made for +the shore, and encamped soon after sunset. Our course ought to have +been West fifteen miles, since we took to the paddle, the Horn Mountains +bearing from us North-West, and running North-North-East and South-South +West. Our soundings, which were frequent during the course of the day, +were from three to six fathoms water. The hunters killed two geese and +a swan: it appeared, indeed, that great numbers of fowls breed in the +islands which we had passed. + + +_Tuesday, 30._--At four this morning we got under way, the weather +being fine and calm. Our course was South-West by South thirty-six +miles. On the South side of the river is a ridge of low mountains, +running East and West by compass. The Indians picked up a white goose, +which appeared to have been lately shot with an arrow, and was quite +fresh. We proceeded South-West by South six miles, and then came to a +bay on our left, which is full of small islands, and appeared to be the +entrance of a river from the South. Here the ridge of mountains +terminates. This course was fifteen miles. + +At six in the afternoon there was an appearance of bad weather; we +landed therefore, for the night; but before we could pitch our tents, a +violent tempest came on, with thunder, lightning, and rain, which, +however, soon ceased, but not before we had suffered the inconvenience +of being drenched by it. The Indians were very much fatigued, having +been employed in running after wild fowl, which had lately cast their +feathers; they, however, caught five swans, and the same number of +geese. I sounded several times in the course of the day, and found from +four to six fathoms water. + + +[1] Fort is the name given to any establishment in this country. + + + + +CHAPTER III + + +JULY, 1789. + +_Wednesday, 1._--At half past four in the morning we continued our +voyage, and in a short time found the river narrowed to about half a +mile. Our course was Westerly among islands, with a strong current. +Though the land is high on both sides, the banks are not perpendicular. +This course was twenty-one miles; and on sounding we found nine fathoms +water. We then proceeded West-North-West nine miles, and passed a river +upon the South-East side; we sounded, and found twelve fathoms; and then +we went North-West by West three miles. Here I lost my lead, which had +fastened at the bottom, with part of the line, the current running so +strong that we could not clear it with eight paddles, and the strength +of the line, which was equal to four paddles. Continued North by West +five miles, and saw a high mountain, bearing South from us; we then +proceeded North-West by North four miles. We now passed a small river +on the North side, then doubled a point to West-South-West. At one +o'clock there came on lightning and thunder, with wind and rain, which +ceased in about half an hour, and left us almost deluged with wet, as we +did not land. There were great quantities of ice along the banks of the +river. + +We landed upon a small island, where there were the poles of four lodges +standing, which we concluded to have belonged to the Knisteneaux, on +their war excursions, six or seven years ago. This course was fifteen +miles West, to where the river of the Mountain falls in from the +Southward. It appears to be a very large river, whose mouth is half a +mile broad. About six miles further a small river flows in the same +direction; and our whole course was twenty-four miles. We landed +opposite to an island, the mountains to the Southward being in sight. +As our canoe was deeply laden, and being also in daily expectation of +coming to the rapids or fall, which we had been taught to consider with +apprehension, we concealed two bags of pemmican in the opposite island, +in the hope that they would be of future service to us. The Indians +were of a different opinion, as they entertained no expectation of +returning that season, when the hidden provisions would be spoiled. Near +us were two Indian encampments of the last year. By the manner in which +these people cut their wood, it appears that they have no iron tools. +The current was very strong during the whole of this day's voyage, and +in the article of provisions two swans were all that the hunters were +able to procure. + + +_Thursday, 2._--The morning was very foggy: but at half past five we +embarked; it cleared up, however, at seven, when we discovered that the +water, from being very limpid and clear, was become dark and muddy. +This alteration must have proceeded from the influx of some river to the +Southward, but where these streams first blended their waters, the fog +had prevented us from observing. At nine we perceived a very high +mountain ahead, which appeared, on our nearer approach, to be rather a +cluster of mountains, stretching as far as our view could reach to the +Southward, and whose tops were lost in the clouds. At noon there was +lightning, thunder, and rain, and at one, we came abreast of the +mountains; their summits appeared to be barren and rocky, but their +declivities were covered with wood; they appeared also to be sprinkled +with white stones, which glistened in the sun, and were called by the +Indians manetoe aseniak, or spirit stones. I suspected that they were +Talc, though they possessed a more brilliant whiteness; on our return, +however, these appearances were dissolved, as they were nothing more +than patches of snow. + +Our course had been West-South-West thirty miles and we proceeded with +great caution, as we continually expected to approach some great rapid +or fall. This was such a prevalent idea, that all of us were +occasionally persuaded that we heard those sounds which betokened a fall +of water. Our course changed to West by North, along the mountains, +twelve miles, North by West, twenty-one miles, and at eight o'clock in +the evening, we went on shore for the night, on the North side of the +river. We saw several encampments of the natives, some of which had +been erected in the present spring, and others at some former period. +The hunters killed only one swan and a beaver; the latter was the first +of its kind which we had seen in this river. The Indians complained of +the perseverance with which we pushed forward, and that they were not +accustomed to such severe fatigue as it occasioned. + + +_Friday, 3._--The rain was continual through the night, and did not +subside till seven this morning, when we embarked and steered +North-North-West for twelve miles, the river being enclosed by high +mountains on either side. We had a strong head-wind, and the rain was +so violent as to compel us to land at ten o' clock. According to my +reckoning, since my last observation, we had run two hundred and +seventeen miles West, and forty-four miles North. At a quarter past two +the rain subsided, and we got again under way, our former course +continuing for five miles. Here a river fell in from the North, and in +a short time the current became strong and rapid, running with great +rapidity among rocky islands, which were the first that we had seen in +this river, and indicated our near approach to rapids and falls. Our +present course was North-West by North ten miles, North-West three +miles, West-North-West twelve miles, and North-West three miles, when we +encamped at eight in the evening, at the foot of an high hill, on the +North shore, which in some parts rose perpendicular from the river. I +immediately ascended it, accompanied by two men and some Indians, and in +about an hour and an half, with very hard walking, we gained the summit, +when I was very much surprised to find it crowned by an encampment. The +Indians informed me, that it is the custom of the people who have no +arms to choose these elevated spots for the places of their residence, +as they can render them inaccessible to their enemies, particularly the +Knisteneaux, of whom they are in continual dread. The prospect from +this height was not so extensive as we expected, as it was terminated by +a circular range of hills, of the same elevation as that on which we +stood. The intervals between the hills were covered with small lakes, +which were inhabited by great numbers of swans. We, saw no trees but +the pine and the birch, which were small in size and few in number. + +We were obliged to shorten our stay here, from the swarms of mosquitoes +which attacked us on all sides and were, indeed, the only inhabitants of +the place. We saw several encampments of the natives in the course of +the day, but none of them were of this year's establishment. Since four +in the afternoon the current had been so strong, that it was at length, +in an actual ebullition, and produced an hissing noise like a kettle of +water in a moderate state of boiling. The weather was now become +extremely cold, which was the more sensibly felt, as it had been very +sultry sometime before and since we had been in the river. + + +_Saturday, 4._--At five in the morning, the wind and weather having +undergone no alteration from yesterday, we proceeded North-West by West +twenty-two miles, North-West six miles, North-West by North four miles +and West-North-West five miles; we then passed the mouth of a small +river from the North, and after doubling a point, South-West one mile, +we passed the influx of an other river from the South. We then +continued our course North-North-West, with a mountain ahead, fifteen +miles, when the opening of two rivers appeared opposite to each other: +we then proceeded West four miles, and North-West thirteen miles. At +eight in the evening, we encamped on an island. The current was as +strong through the whole of this day as it had been the preceding +after-noon; nevertheless, a quantity of ice appeared along the banks of +the river. The hunters killed a beaver and a goose, the former of which +sunk before they could get to him: beavers, otters, bears, etc., if shot +dead at once, remain like a bladder, but if there remains enough of life +for them to struggle, they soon fill with water and go to the bottom. + + +_Sunday, 5._--The sun set last night at fifty-three minutes past nine, +by my watch, and rose at seven minutes before two this morning: we +embarked soon after, steering North-North-West, through islands for five +miles, and West four miles. The river then increased in breadth, and +the current began to slacken in a small degree; after the continuation +of our course, we perceived a ridge of high mountains before us, covered +with snow. West-South-West ten miles, and at three-quarters past seven +o'clock, we saw several smokes on the North shore, which we made every +exertion to approach. As we drew nearer, we discovered the natives +running about in great apparent confusion; some were making to the +woods, and others hurrying to their canoes. Our hunters landed before +us, and addressed the few that had not escaped, in the Chipewyan +language, which, so great was their confusion and terror, they did not +appear to understand. But when they perceived that it was impossible to +avoid us, as we were all landed, they made us signs to keep at a +distance, with which we complied, and not only unloaded our canoe, but +pitched our tents, before we made any attempt to approach them. During +this interval, the English chief and his young men were employed in +reconciling them to our arrival; and when they had recovered from their +alarm of hostile intention, it appeared that some of them perfectly +comprehended the language of our Indians; so that they were at length +persuaded, though not without evident signs of reluctance and +apprehension, to come to us. Their reception, however, soon dissipated +their fears, and they hastened to call their fugitive companions from +their hiding places. + +There were five families, consisting of twenty-five or thirty persons, +and of two different tribes, the Slave and Dog-rib Indians. We made +them smoke, though it was evident they did not know the use of tobacco; +we likewise supplied them with grog; but I am disposed to think, that +they accepted our civilities rather from fear than inclination. We +acquired a more effectual influence over them by the distribution of +knives, beads, awls, rings, gartering, fire-steels, flints, and hatchets; +so that they became more familiar even than we expected, for we could +not keep them out of our tents: though I did not observe that they +attempted to purloin any-thing. + +The information which they gave respecting the river, had so much of the +fabulous, that I shall not detail it: it will be sufficient just to +mention their attempts to persuade us that it would require several +winters to get to the sea, and that old age would come upon us before +the period of our return: we were also to encounter monsters of such +horrid shapes and destructive powers as could only exist in their wild +imaginations. They added, besides, that there were two impassable falls +in the river, the first of which was about thirty days march from us. + +Though I placed no faith in these strange relations, they had a very +different effect upon our Indians, who were already tired of the voyage. +It was their opinion and anxious wish, that we should not hesitate to +return. They said that, according to the information which they had +received, there were very few animals in the country beyond us, and that +as we proceeded, the scarcity would increase, and we should absolutely +perish from hunger, if no other accident befel us. It was with no small +trouble that they were convinced of the folly of these reasonings; and +by my desire, they induced one of those Indians to accompany us, in +consideration of a small kettle, an axe, a knife, and some other +articles. + +Though it was now three o'clock in the afternoon, the canoe was ordered +to be re-loaded, and as we were ready to embark our new recruit was +desired to prepare himself for his departure, which he would have +declined; but as none of his friends would take his place, we may be +said, after the delay of an hour, to have compelled him to embark. +Previous to his departure a ceremony took place, of which I could not +learn the meaning; he cut off a lock of his hair, and having divided it +into three parts, he fastened one of them to the hair on the upper part +of his wife's head, blowing on it three times with the utmost violence +in his power, and uttering certain words. The other two he fastened +with the same formalities, on the heads of his two children. + +During our short stay with these people, they amused us with dancing, +which they accompanied with their voices: but neither their song or +their dance possessed much variety. The men and women formed a +promiscuous ring. The former have a bone dagger or piece of stick +between the fingers of the right hand, which they keep extended above +the head, in continual motion: the left they seldom raise so high, but +work it backwards and forwards in a horizontal direction; while they +leap about and throw themselves into various antic postures, to the +measure of their music, always bringing their heels close to each other +at every pause. The men occasionally howl in imitation of some animal, +and he who continues this violent exercise for the longest period, +appears to be considered as the best performer. The women suffer their +arms to hang as without the power of motion. They are a meagre, ugly, +ill-made people, particularly about the legs, which are very clumsy and +covered with scabs. The latter circumstance proceeds probably from +their habitually roasting them before the fire. Many of them appeared +to be in a very unhealthy state, which is owing, as I imagine, to their +natural filthiness. They are of a moderate stature, and as far as could +be discovered, through the coat of dirt and grease that covers them, are +of a fairer complexion than the generality of Indians who are the +natives of warmer climates. + +Some of them have their hair of a great length; while others suffer a +long tress to fall behind, and the rest is cut so short as to expose +their ears, but no other attention whatever is paid to it. The beards +of some of the old men were long, and the rest had them pulled out by +the roots so that not a hair could be seen on their chins. The men have +two double lines, either black or blue, tattooed upon each cheek, from +the ear to the nose. The gristle of the latter is perforated so as to +admit a goose-quill or a small piece of wood to be passed through the +orifice. Their clothing is made of the dressed skins of the rein or +moose-deer, though more commonly of the former. These they prepare in +the hair for winter, and make shirts of both, which reach to the middle +of their thighs. Some of them are decorated with an embroidery of very +neat workmanship with porcupine quills and the hair of the moose, +coloured red, black, yellow, and white. Their upper garments are +sufficiently large to cover the whole body, with a fringe round the +bottom, and are used both sleeping and awake. Their leggins come half +way up the thigh, and are sewed to their shoes: they are embroidered +round the ancle, and upon every seam. The dress of the women is the +same as that of the men. The former have no covering on their private +parts, except a tassel of leather which dangles from a small cord, as it +appears, to keep off the flies, which would otherwise be very +troublesome. Whether circumcision be practised among them, I cannot +pretend to say, but the appearance of it was general among those whom I +saw. + +Their ornaments consist of gorgets, bracelets for the arms and wrists, +made of wood, horn, or bone, belts, garters, and a kind of band to go +round the head, composed of strips of leather of one inch and an half +broad, embroidered with porcupine quills, and stuck round with the claws +of bears or wild fowl inverted, to which are suspended a few short +thongs of the skin of an animal that resembles the ermine, in the form +of a tassel. Their cinctures and garters are formed of porcupine quills +woven with sinews, in a style of peculiar skill and neatness: they have +others of different materials, and more ordinary workmanship; and to +both they attach a long fringe of strings of leather, worked round with +hair of various colours. Their mittens are also suspended from the neck +in a position convenient for the reception of the hands. + +Their lodges are of a very simple structure: a few poles supported by a +fork, and forming a semicircle at the bottom, with some branches or a +piece of bark as a covering, constitutes the whole of their native +architecture. They build two of these huts facing each other, and make +the fire between them. The furniture harmonises with the buildings: +they have a few dishes of wood, bark, or horn; the vessels in which they +cook their victuals are in the shape of a gourd, narrow at the top and +wide at the bottom, and of watape,[1] fabricated in such a manner as to +hold water, which is made to boil by putting a succession of red-hot +stones into it. These vessels contain from two to six gallons. They +have a number of small leather bags to hold their embroidered work, +lines, and nets. They always keep an large quantity of the fibres of +willow bark, which they work into thread on their thighs. Their nets +are from three to forty fathoms in length, and from thirteen to +thirty-six inches in depth. The short deep ones they set in the eddy +current of rivers, and the long ones in the lakes. They likewise make +lines of the sinews of the rein-deer, and manufacture their hooks from +wood, horn, or bone. Their arms and weapons for hunting, are bows and +arrows, spears, daggers, and pogamagans, or clubs. The bows are about +five or six feet in length, and the strings are of sinews or raw skins. +The arrows are two feet and an half long, including the barb, which is +variously formed of bone, horn, flint, iron, or copper, and are winged +with three feathers. The pole of the spears is about six feet in +length, and pointed with a barbed bone of ten inches. With this weapon +they strike the rein-deer in the water. The daggers are flat and +sharp-pointed, about twelve inches long, and made of horn or bone. The +pogamagon is made of the horn of the rein-deer, the branches being all +cut off, except that which forms the extremity. This instrument is +about two feet in length, and is employed to despatch their enemies in +battle, and such animals as they catch in snares placed for that +purpose. These are about three fathom long, and are made of the green +skin of the rein or moose-deer, but in such small strips, that it +requires from ten to thirty strands to make this cord, which is not +thicker than a cod-line; and strong enough to resist any animal that can +be entangled in it. Snares or nooses are also made of sinews to take +lesser animals, such as hares and white partridges, which are very +numerous. Their axes are manufactured of a piece of brown or grey stone +from six to eight inches long, and two inches thick. The inside is +flat, and the outside round and tapering to an edge, an inch wide. They +are fastened by the middle with the flat side inwards to a handle two +feet long, with a cord of green skin. This is the tool with which they +split their wood, and we believe, the only one of its kind among them, +They kindle fire, by striking together a piece of white or yellow +pyrites and a flint stone, over a piece of touchwood. They are +universally provided with a small bag containing these materials, so +that they are in a continual state of preparation to produce fire. From +the adjoining tribes, the Red-Knives and Chepewyans, they procure, in +barter for marten skins and a few beaver, small pieces of iron, of which +they manufacture knives, by fixing them at the end of a short stick, and +with them and the beaver's teeth, they finish all their work. They keep +them in a sheath hanging to their neck, which also contains their awls +both of iron and horn. + +Their canoes are small, pointed at both ends, flat-bottomed and covered +in the fore part. They are made of the bark of the birch-tree and +fir-wood, but of so slight a construction, that the man whom one of +these light vessels bears on the water, can, in return, carry it over +land without any difficulty. It is very seldom that more than one +person embarks in them, nor are they capable of receiving more than two. +The paddles are six feet long, one half of which is occupied by a blade +of about eight inches wide. These people informed us, that we had +passed large bodies of Indians who inhabit the mountains on the east +side of the river. + +At four in the afternoon we embarked, and our Indian acquaintance +promised to remain on the bank of the river till the fall, in case we +should return. Our course was West-South-West, and we soon passed the +Great Bear Lake River, which is of a considerable depth and an hundred +yards wide: its water is clear, and has the greenish hue of the sea. We +had not proceeded more than six miles when we were obliged to land for +the night, in consequence of an heavy gust of wind, accompanied with +rain. We encamped beneath a rocky hill, on the top of which, according +to the information of our guide, it blew a storm every day throughout +the year. He found himself very uncomfortable in his new situation, and +pretended that he was very ill, in order that he might be permitted to +return to his relations. To prevent his escape, it became necessary to +keep a strict watch over him during the night. + + +_Monday, 6._--At three o'clock, in a very raw and cloudy morning, we +embarked, and steered West-South-West four miles, West four miles, +West-North-West five miles, West eight miles, West by South fifteen +miles, West twenty-seven miles, South-West nine miles, then West six +miles, and encamped at half past seven. We passed through numerous +islands, and had a ridge of snowy mountains always in sight. Our +conductor informed us that great numbers of bears and small white +buffaloes, frequent those mountains, which are also inhabited by +Indians. We encamped in a similar situation to that of the preceding +evening, beneath another high rocky hill, which I attempted to ascend, +in company with one of the hunters, but before we had got half way to +the summit, we were almost suffocated by clouds of mosquitoes, and were +obliged to return. I observed, however, that the mountains terminated +here, and that a river flowed from the Westward: I also discovered a +strong rippling current, or rapid, which ran close under a steep +precipice of the hill. + + +_Tuesday, 7._--We embarked at four in the morning and crossed to the +opposite side of the river, in consequence of the rapid; but we might +have spared ourselves this trouble, as there would have been no danger +in continuing our course, without any circuitous deviation whatever. +This circumstance convinced us of the erroneous account given by the +natives of the great and approaching dangers of our navigation, as this +rapid was stated to be one of them. Our course was now North-North-West +three miles, West-North-West four miles, North-West ten miles, North two +miles, when we came to a river that flowed from the Eastward. Here we +landed at an encampment of four fires, all the inhabitants of which ran +off with the utmost speed except and old man and an old woman. Our +guide called aloud to the fugitives, and entreated them to stay, but +without effect the old man, however, did not hesitate to approach us, +and represented himself as too far advanced in life, and too indifferent +about the short time he had to remain in the world, to be very anxious +about escaping from any danger that threatened him; at the same time he +pulled his grey hairs from his head by handfuls to distribute among us, +and implored our favour for himself and his relations. Our guide, +however, at length removed his fears, and persuaded him to recall the +fugitives, who consisted of eighteen people; whom I reconciled to me on +their return with presents of beads, knives, awls, &c., with which they +appeared to be greatly delighted. They differed in no respect from +those whom we had already seen; nor were they deficient in hospitable +attentions; they provided us with fish, which was very well boiled, and +cheerfully accepted by us. Our guide still sickened after his home, and +was so anxious to return thither, that we were under the necessity of +forcing him to embark. + +These people informed us that we were close to another great rapid, and +that there were several lodges of their relations in its vicinity. + +Four canoes, with a man in each, followed us, to point out the +particular channels we should follow for the secure passage of the +rapid. They also abounded in discouraging stories concerning the +dangers and difficulties which we were to encounter. + +From hence our course was North-North-East two miles, when the river +appeared to be enclosed, as it were, with lofty, perpendicular, white +rocks, which did not afford us a very agreeable prospect. We now went +on shore, in order to examine the rapid, but did not perceive any signs +of it, though the Indians still continued to magnify its dangers: +however, as they ventured down it, in their small canoes, our +apprehensions were consequently removed, and we followed them at some +distance, but did not find any increase in the rapidity of the current; +at length the Indians informed us that we should find no other rapid but +that which was now bearing us along. The river at this place is not +above three hundred yards in breadth, but on sounding I found fifty +fathoms water. At the two rivulets that offer their tributary streams +from either side, we found six families, consisting of about thirty-five +persons, who gave us an ample quantity of excellent fish, which were, +however, confined to white fish, the poisson inconnu, and another of a +round form and greenish colour, which was about fourteen inches in +length. We gratified them with a few presents, and continued our +voyage. The men, however, followed us in fifteen canoes. + +This narrow channel is three miles long, and its course +North-North-East. We then steered North three miles, and landed at an +encampment of three or more families, containing twenty-two persons, +which was situated on the bank of a river, of a considerable appearance, +which came from the Eastward. We obtained hares and partridges from +these people, and presented in return such articles as greatly delighted +them. They very much regretted that they had no goods or merchandise to +exchange with us, as they had left them at a lake, from whence the river +issued, and in whose vicinity some of their people were employed in +setting snares for rein-deer. They engaged to go for their articles of +trade, and would wait our return, which we assumed them would be within +two months. There was a youth among them in the capacity of a slave, +whom our Indians understood much better than any of the natives of this +country whom they had yet seen; he was invited to accompany us, but took +the first opportunity to conceal himself, and we saw him no more. + +We now steered West five miles, when we again landed, and found two +families, containing seven people, but had reason to believe that there +were others hidden in the woods. We received from them two dozen of +hares, and they were about to boil two more, which they also gave us. +We were not ungrateful for their kindness, and left them. Our course +was now North-West four miles, and at nine we landed and pitched our +tents, when one of our people killed a grey crane. Our conductor +renewed his complaints, not, as he assured us, from any apprehension of +our ill treatment, but of the Esquimaux, whom he represented as a very +wicked and malignant people; who would put us all to death. He added, +also, that it was but two summers since a large party of them came up +this river, and killed many of his relations. Two Indians followed us +from the last lodges. + + +_Wednesday, 8._--At half past two in the morning we embarked, and +steered a Westerly course, and soon after put ashore at two lodges of +nine Indians. We made them a few trifling presents, but without +disembarking, and had proceeded but a small distance from thence, when +we observed several smokes beneath a hill, on the North shore, and on +our approach we perceived the natives climbing the ascent to gain the +woods. The Indians, however, in the two small canoes which were ahead +of us, having assured them of our friendly intentions, they returned to +their fires, and we disembarked. Several of them were clad in +hare-skins, but in every other circumstance they resembled those whom we +had already seen. We were, however, informed that they were of a +different tribe, called the Hare Indians, as hares and fish are their +principal support, from the scarcity of rein-deer and beaver, which are +the only animals of the larger kind that frequent this part of the +country. They were twenty-five in number; and among them was a woman +who was afflicted with an abscess in the belly, and reduced, in +consequence, to a mere skeleton: at the same time several old women were +singing and howling around her; but whether these noises were to operate +as a charm for her cure, or merely to amuse and console her, I do not +pretend to determine. A small quantity of our usual presents were +received by them with the greatest satisfaction. + +Here we made an exchange of our guide, who had become so troublesome +that we were obliged to watch him night and day, except when he was upon +the water. The man, however, who had agreed to go in his place soon +repented of his engagement, and endeavoured to persuade us that some of +his relations further down the river, would readily accompany us, and +were much better acquainted with the river than himself. But, as he had +informed us ten minutes before that we should see no more of his tribe, +we paid very little attention to his remonstrances, and compelled him to +embark. + +In about three hours a man overtook us in a canoe, and we suspected that +his object was to facilitate, in some way or other, the escape of our +conductor. About twelve we also observed an Indian walking along the +North-East shore, when the small canoes paddled towards him. We +accordingly followed, and found three men, three women, and two +children, who had been on an hunting expedition. They had some flesh of +the rein-deer, which they offered to us, but it was so rotten, as well +as offensive to the smell, that we excused ourselves from accepting it. +They had also their wonderful stories of danger and terror, as well as +their countrymen, whom we had already seen; and we were now informed, +that behind the opposite island there was a Manitoe or spirit, in the +river, which swallowed every person that approached it. As it would +have employed half a day to have indulged our curiosity in proceeding to +examine this phenomenon, we did not deviate from our course, but left +these people with the usual presents, and proceeded on our voyage. Our +course and distance this day were West twenty-eight miles, +West-North-West twenty-three miles, West-South-West six miles, West by +North five miles, South-West four miles, and encamped at eight o'clock. +A fog prevailed the greater part of the day, with frequent showers of +small rain. + + +[1] Watape is the name given to the divided roots of the spruce fir, +which the natives weave into a degree of compactness that renders it +capable of containing a fluid. The different parts of the bark canoes +are also sewed together with this kind of filament. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +JULY, 1789. + +_Thursday, 9._--Thunder and rain prevailed during the night, and, in +the course of it, our guide deserted; we therefore compelled another of +these people, very much against his will, to supply the place of his +fugitive countryman. We also took away the paddles of one of them who +remained behind, that he might not follow us on any scheme of promoting +the escape of his companion, who was not easily pacified. At length, +however, we succeeded in the act of conciliation, and at half past three +quitted our station. In a short time we saw a smoke on the East shore, +and directed our course towards it. Our new guide began immediately to +call to the people that belonged to it in a particular manner, which we +did not comprehend. He informed us that they were not of his tribe, but +were a very wicked, malignant people, who would beat us cruelly, pull +our hair with great violence from our heads, and maltreat us in various +other ways. + +The men waited our arrival, but the women and children took to the +woods. There were but four of these people, and previous to our +landing, they all harangued us at the same moment, and apparently with +violent anger and resentment. Our hunters did not understand them, but +no sooner had our guide addressed them, than they were appeased. I +presented them with beads, awls, etc., and when the women and children +returned from the woods, they were gratified with similar articles. +There were fifteen of them; and of a more pleasing appearance than any +which we had hitherto seen, as they were healthy, full of flesh, and +clean in their persons. Their language was somewhat different, but I +believe chiefly in the accent, for they and our guide conversed +intelligibly with each other; and the English chief clearly comprehended +one of them, though he was not himself understood. + +Their arms and utensils differ but little from those which have been +described in a former chapter. The only iron they have is in small +pieces, which serve them for knives. They obtain this metal from the +Esquimaux Indians. Their arrows are made of very light wood, and are +winged only with two feathers; their bows differed from any which we had +seen, and we understood that they were furnished by the Esquimaux, who +are their neighbours: they consist of two pieces, with a very strong +cord of sinews along the back, which is tied in several places, to +preserve its shape; when this cord becomes wet, it requires a strong +bow-string, and a powerful arm to draw it. The vessel in which they +prepare their food, is made of a thin frame of wood, and of an oblong +shape; the bottom is fixed in a groove, in the same manner as a cask. +Their shirts are not cut square at the bottom, but taper to a point, +from the belt downwards as low as the knee, both before and behind, with +a border, embellished with a short fringe. They use also another +fringe, similar to that which has been already described, with the +addition of the stone of a grey farinaceous berry, of the size and shape +of a large barley-corn: it is of a brown colour, and fluted, and being +bored is run on each string of the fringe; with this they decorate their +shirts, by sewing it in a semicircle on the breast and back, and +crossing over both shoulders; the sleeves are wide and short, but the +mittens supply their deficiency, as they are long enough to reach over a +part of the sleeve, and are commodiously suspended by a cord from the +neck. If their leggins were made with waistbands, they might with great +propriety be denominated trousers: they fasten them with a cord round +the middle, so that they appear to have a sense of decency which their +neighbours can not boast. Their shoes are sewed to their leggins, and +decorated on every seam. One of the men was clad in a shirt made of the +skins of the musk-rat. The dress of the women is the same as that of +the men, except in their shirts, which are longer, and without the +finishing of a fringe on their breast. Their peculiar mode of tying the +hair is as follows:--that which grows on the temples, or the fore +part of the skull, is formed into two queues, hanging down before the +ears; that of the scalp or crown is fashioned in the same manner to the +back of the neck, and is then tied with the rest of the hair, at some +distance from the head. A thin cord is employed for these purposes, and +very neatly worked with hair, artificially coloured. The women, and, +indeed, some of the men, let their hair hang loose on their shoulders, +whether it be long or short. + +We purchased a couple of very large moose skins from them, which were +very well dressed; indeed we did not suppose that there were any of +those animals in the country; and it appears from the accounts of the +natives themselves, that they are very scarce. As for the beaver, the +existence of such a creature does not seem to be known by them. Our +people bought shirts of them, and many curious articles, &c. They +presented us with a most delicious fish, which was less than a herring, +and very beautifully spotted with black and yellow: its dorsal fin +reached from the head to the tail; in its expanded state takes a +triangular form, and is variegated with the colours that enliven the +scales: the head is very small, and the mouth is armed with +sharp-pointed teeth. + +We prevailed on the native, whose language was most intelligible, to +accompany us. He informed us that we should sleep ten nights more +before we arrived at the sea; that several of his relations resided in +the immediate vicinity of this part of the river, and that in three +nights we should meet with the Esquimaux, with whom they had formerly +made war, but were now in a state of peace and amity. He mentioned the +last Indians whom we had seen in terms of great derision; describing +them as being no better than old women, and as abominable liars; which +coincided with the notion we already entertained of them. + +As we pushed off, some of my men discharged their fowling pieces, that +were only loaded with powder, at the report of which the Indians were +very much alarmed, as they had not before heard the discharge of +firearms. This circumstance had such an effect upon our guide, that we +had reason to apprehend he would not fulfil his promise. When, however, +he was informed that the noise which he had heard was a signal of +friendship, he was persuaded to embark in his own small canoe, though he +had been offered a seat in ours. + +Two of his companions, whom he represented as his brothers, followed us +in their canoes; and they amused us not only with their native songs, +but with others, in imitation of the Esquimaux; and our new guide was so +enlivened by them, that the antics he performed, in keeping time to the +singing, alarmed us with continual apprehension that his boat must +upset: but he was not long content with his confined situation, and +paddling up alongside our canoe, requested us to receive him in it, +though but a short time before he had resolutely refused to accept our +invitation. No sooner had he entered our canoe, than he began to +perform an Esquimaux dance, to our no small alarm. He was, however, +soon prevailed upon to be more tranquil; when he began to display +various indecencies, according to the customs of the Esquimaux, of which +he boasted an intimate acquaintance. On our putting to shore, in order +to leave his canoe, he informed us, that on the opposite hill the +Esquimaux, three winters before, killed his grandfather. We saw a fox, +and a ground-hog on the hill, the latter of which the brother of our +guide shot with his bow and arrow. + +About four in the afternoon we perceived a smoke on the West shore, when +we traversed and landed. The natives made a most terrible uproar, +talking with great vociferation, and running about as if they were +deprived of their senses, while the greater part of the women, with the +children, fled away. Perceiving the disorder which our appearance +occasioned among these people, we had waited some time before we quitted +the canoe; and I have no doubt, if we had been without people to +introduce us, that they would have attempted some violence against us; +for when the Indians send away their women and children, it is always +with a hostile design. At length we pacified them with the usual +presents, but they preferred beads to any of the articles that I offered +them; particularly such as were of a blue colour; and one of them even +requested to exchange a knife which I had given him for a small quantity +of those ornamental baubles. I purchased of them two shirts for my +hunters; and at the same time they presented me with some arrows, and +dried fish. This party consisted of five families, to the amount, as I +suppose, of forty men, women, and children; but I did not see them all, +as several were afraid to venture from their hiding-places. They are +called _Deguthee Dinees_, or the _Quarrellers_. + +Our guide, like his predecessors, now manifested his wish to leave us, +and entertained similar apprehensions that we should not return by this +passage. He had his alarms also respecting the Esquimaux, who might +kill us and take away the women. Our Indians, however, assured him that +we had no fears of any kind, and that he need not be alarmed for +himself. They also convinced him that we should return by the way we +were going, so that he consented to re-embark without giving us any +further trouble; and eight small canoes followed us. Our courses this +day were South-West by West six miles, South-West by South thirty miles, +South-West three miles, West by South twelve miles, West by North two +miles, and we encamped at eight in the evening on the Eastern bank of +the river. + +The Indians whom I found here, informed me, that from the place where I +this morning met the first of their tribe, the distance overland, on the +East side, to the sea, was not long, and that from hence, by proceeding +to the Westward, it was still shorter. They also represented the land +on both sides as projecting to a point. These people do not appear to +harbour any thievish dispositions; at least we did not perceive that +they took, or wanted to take, anything from us by stealth or artifice. +They enjoyed the amusements of dancing and jumping in common with those +we had already seen; and, indeed, these exercises seem to be their +favourite diversions. + +About mid-day the weather was sultry, but in the afternoon it became +cold. There was a large quantity of wild flax, the growth of last year, +laying on the ground, and the new plants were sprouting up through it. +This circumstance I did not observe in any other part. + + +_Friday, 10._--At four in the morning we embarked, at a small distance +from the place of our encampment; the river, which here becomes +narrower, flows between high rocks; and a meandering course took us +North-West four miles. At this spot the banks became low; indeed, from +the first rapid, the country does not wear a mountainous appearance; but +the banks of the river are generally lofty, in some places perfectly +naked, and in others well covered with small trees, such as the fir and +the birch. We continued our last course for two miles, with mountains +before us; whose tops were covered with snow. + +The land is low on both sides of the river, except these mountains, +whose base is distant about ten miles: here the river widens, and runs +through various channels, formed by islands, some of which are without a +tree, and little more than banks of mud and sand; while others are +covered with a kind of spruce fir, and trees of a larger size than we +had seen for the last ten days. Their banks, which are about six feet +above the surface of the water, display a face of solid ice, intermixed +with veins of black earth, and as the heat of the sun melts the ice, the +trees frequently fall into the river. + +So various were the channels of the river at this time, that we were at +a loss which to take. Our guide preferred the Easternmost, on account +of the Esquimaux, but I determined to take the middle channel, as it +appeared to be a larger body of water, and running North and South: +besides, as there was a greater chance of seeing them I concluded, that +we could always go to the Eastward, whenever we might prefer it. Our +course was now West by North six miles, North-West by West, the snowy +mountains being West by South from us, and stretching to the Northward +as far as we could see. According to the information of the Indians, +they are part of the chain of mountains which we approached on the third +of this month. I obtained an observation this day that gave me +67. 47. North latitude, which was farther North than I expected, +according to the course I kept: but the difference was owing to the +variation of the compass, which was more Easterly than I imagined. From +hence it was evident that these waters emptied themselves into the +Hyperborean Sea; and though it was probable that, from the want of +provision, we could not return to Athabasca in the course of the season, +I nevertheless, determined to penetrate to the discharge of them. + +My new conductor being very much discouraged and quite tired of his +situation, used his influence to prevent our proceeding. He had never +been, he said, at the _Benahullo Toe_, or White Man's Lake; and that +when he went to the Esquimaux Lake, which is at no great distance, he +passed over land from the place where we found him, and to that part +where the Esquimaux pass the summer. In short, my hunters also became +so disheartened from these accounts, and other circumstances, that I was +confident they would have left me, if it had been in their power. I, +however, satisfied them in some degree, by the assurance, that I would +proceed onwards but seven days more, and if I did not then get to the +sea, I would return. Indeed, the low state of our provisions, without +any other consideration, formed a very sufficient security for the +maintenance of my engagement. Our last course was thirty-two miles, +with a stronger current than could be expected in such a low country. + +We now proceeded North-North-West four miles, North-West three miles, +North-East two miles, North-West by West three miles, and North-East two +miles. At half past eight in the evening we landed and pitched our +tents, near to where there had been three encampments of the Esquimaux, +since the breaking up of the ice. The natives, who followed us +yesterday, left us at our station this morning. In the course of the +day we saw large flocks of wild fowl. + + +_Saturday, 11._--I sat up all night to observe the sun. At half past +twelve I called up one of the men to view a spectacle which he had never +before seen; when, on seeing the sun so high, he thought it was a signal +to embark, and began to call the rest of his companions, who would +scarcely be persuaded by me, that the sun had not descended nearer to +the horizon, and that it was now but a short time past midnight. + +We reposed, however, till three quarters after three, when we entered +the canoe, and steered about North-West, the river taking a very +serpentine course. About seven we saw a ridge of high land; at twelve +we landed at a spot where we observed that some of the natives had +lately been. I counted thirty places where there had been fires; and +some of the men who went further, saw as many more. They must have been +here for a considerable time, though it does not appear that they had +erected any huts. A great number of poles, however, were seen fixed in +the river, to which they had attached their nets, and there seemed to be +an excellent fishery. One of the fish, of the many which we saw leap +out of the water, fell into our canoe; it was about ten inches long, and +of a round shape. About the places where they had made their fires, +were scattered pieces of whalebone, and thick burned leather, with parts +of the frames of three canoes; we could also observe where they had +spilled train oil; and there was the singular appearance of a spruce +fir, stripped of its branches to the top like an English May-pole. The +weather was cloudy, and the air cold and unpleasant. From this place +for about five miles, the river widens, it then flows in a variety of +narrow, meandering channels, amongst low islands, enlivened with no +trees, but a few dwarf willows. + +At four, we landed, where there were three houses, or rather huts, +belonging to the natives. The ground-plot is of an oval form, about +fifteen feet long, ten feet wide in the middle, and eight feet at either +end; the whole of it is dug about twelve inches below the surface of the +ground, and one half of it is covered over with willow branches; which +probably serves as a bed for the whole family. + +A space, in the middle of the other part, of about four feet wide, is +deepened twelve inches more, and is the only spot in the house where a +grown person can stand upright. One side of it is covered, as has been +already described, and the other is the hearth or fireplace, of which, +however, they do not make much use. Though it was close to the wall, +the latter did not appear to be burned. The door or entrance is in the +middle of one end of the house, and is about two feet and an half high, +and two feet wide, and has a covered way or porch five feet in length; +so that it is absolutely necessary to creep on all fours in order to get +into, or out of, this curious habitation. There is a hole of about +eighteen inches square on the top of it, which serves the threefold +purpose of a window, an occasional door, and a chimney. The underground +part of the floor is lined with split wood. Six or eight stumps of +small trees driven into the earth, with the root upwards, on which are +laid some cross pieces of timber, support the roof of the building, +which is an oblong square of ten feet by six. The whole is made of +drift-wood covered with branches and dry grass; over which is laid a +foot deep of earth. On each side of these houses are a few square holes +in the ground of about two feet in depth, which are covered with split +wood and earth, except in the middle. These appeared to be contrived +for the preservation of the winter stock of provisions. In and about +the houses we found sledge runners and bones, pieces of whalebone, and +poplar bark cut in circles, which are used as corks to buoy the nets, +and are fixed to them by pieces of whalebone. Before each hut a great +number of stumps of trees were fixed in the ground, upon which it +appeared that they hung their fish to dry. + +We now continued our voyage, and encamped at eight o'clock. I +calculated our course at about North-West, and, allowing for the +windings, that we had made fifty-four miles. We expected, throughout +the day, to meet with some of the natives. On several of the islands we +perceived the print of their feet in the sand, as if they had been there +but a few days before, to procure wild fowl. There were frequent +showers of rain in the afternoon, and the weather was raw and +disagreeable. We saw a black fox; but trees were now become very rare +objects, except a few dwarf willows, of not more than three feet in +height. + +The discontents of our hunters were now renewed by the accounts which +our guide had been giving of that part of our voyage that was +approaching. According to his information, we were to see a larger lake +on the morrow. Neither he nor his relations, he said, knew any thing +about it, except that part which is opposite to, and not far from, their +country. The Esquimaux alone, he added, inhabit its shores, and kill a +large fish that is found in it, which is a principal part of their food; +this, we presumed, must; be the whale. He also mentioned white bears, +and another large animal which was seen in those parts, but our hunters +could not understand the description which he gave of it. He also +represented their canoes as being of a large construction, which would +commodiously contain four or five families. However, to reconcile the +English chief to the necessary continuance in my service, I presented +him with one of my capotes or travelling coats; at the same time, to +satisfy the guide, and keep him, if possible, in good humour, I gave him +a skin of the moose-deer, which, in his opinion, was a valuable present. + + +_Sunday, 12._--It rained with violence throughout the night, and till +two in the morning; the weather continuing very cold. We proceeded on +the same meandering course as yesterday, the wind North-North-West, and +the country so naked that scarce a shrub was to be seen. At ten in the +morning, we landed where there were four huts, exactly the same as those +which have been so lately described. The adjacent land is high and +covered with short grass and flowers, though the earth was not thawed +above four inches from the surface; beneath which was a solid body of +ice. This beautiful appearance, however, was strangely contrasted with +the ice and snow that are seen in the valleys. The soil, where there is +any, is a yellow clay mixed with stones. These huts appear to have been +inhabited during the last winter; and we had reason to think that some +of the natives had been lately there, as the beach was covered with the +track of their feet. Many of the runners and bars of their sledges were +laid together, near the houses, in a manner that seemed to denote the +return of the proprietors. There were also pieces of netting made of +sinews, and some bark of the willow. The thread of the former was +plaited, and no ordinary portion of time must have been employed in +manufacturing so great a length of cord. A square stone kettle, with a +flat bottom, also occupied our attention, which was capable of +containing two gallons; and we were puzzled as to the means these people +must have employed to have chiselled it out of a solid rock into its +present form. To these articles may be added, small pieces of flint +fixed into handles of wood, which probably serve as knives; several +wooden dishes; the stern and part of a large canoe; pieces of very thick +leather, which we conjectured to be the covering of a canoe; several +bones of large fish, and two heads; but we could not determine the +animal to which they belonged, though we conjectured that it must be the +sea-horse. + +When we had satisfied our curiosity we re-embarked, but we were at a +loss what course to steer, as our guide seemed to be as ignorant of this +country as ourselves. Though the current was very strong, we appeared +to have come to the entrance of the lake. The stream set to the West, +and we went with it to an high point, at the distance of about eight +miles, which we conjectured to be an island; but, on approaching it, we +perceived it to be connected with the shore by a low neck of land. I +now took an observation which gave 69. 1. North latitude. From the +point that has been just mentioned, we continued the same course for the +Westernmost point of an high island, and the Westernmost land in sight, +at the distance of fifteen miles. + +The lake was quite open to us to the Westward, and out of the channel of +the river there was not more than four feet water, and in some places +the depth did not exceed one foot, From the shallowness of the water it +was impossible to coast to the Westward. At five o'clock we arrived at +the island, and during the last fifteen miles, five feet was the deepest +water. The lake now appeared to be covered with ice, for about two +leagues distance, and no land ahead, so that we were prevented from +proceeding in this direction by the ice, and the shallowness of the +water along the shore. + +We landed at the boundary of our voyage in this direction, and as soon +as the tents were pitched I ordered the nets to be set, when I proceeded +with the English chief to the highest part of the island, from which we +discovered the solid ice, extending from the South-West by compass to +the Eastward. As far as the eye could reach to the South-West-ward, we +could dimly perceive a chain of mountains, stretching further to the +North than the edge of the ice, at the distance of upwards of twenty +leagues. To the Eastward we saw many islands, and in our progress we +met with a considerable number of white partridges, now become brown. +There were also flocks of very beautiful plovers, and I found the nest +of one of them with four eggs. White owls, likewise, were among the +inhabitants of the place: but the dead, as well as the living, demanded +our attention, for we came to the grave of one of the natives, by which +lay a bow, a paddle, and a spear., The Indians informed me that they +landed on a small island, about four leagues from hence, where they had +seen the tracks of two men, that were quite fresh; they had also found a +secret store of train oil, and several bones of white bears were +scattered about the place where it was hid. The wind was now so high +that it was impracticable for us to visit the nets. + +My people could not, at this time, refrain from expressions of real +concern, that they were obliged to return without reaching the sea: +indeed, the hope of attaining this object encouraged them to bear, +without repining, the hardships of our unremitting voyage. For some +time past their spirits were animated by the expectation that another +day would bring them to the _Mer d'ouest:_ and even in our present +situation they declared their readiness to follow me wherever I should +be pleased to lead them. We saw several large white gulls, and other +birds, whose back, and upper feathers of the wing are brown; and whose +belly, and under feathers of the wing are white. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +JULY, 1789. + +_Monday, 13._--We had no sooner retired to rest last night, if I may +use that expression, in a country where the sun never sinks beneath the +horizon, than some of the people were obliged to rise and remove the +baggage, on account of the rising of the water. At eight in the morning +the weather was fine and calm, which afforded an opportunity to examine +the nets, one of which had been driven from its position by the wind and +current. We caught seven poissons inconnus, which were unpalatable; a +white fish, that proved delicious; and another about the size of an +herring, which none of us had ever seen before, except the English +chief, who recognized it as being of a kind that abounds in Hudson's +Bay. About noon the wind blew hard from the Westward, when I took an +observation, which gave 69. 14. North latitude, and the meridian +variation of the compass was thirty-six degrees Eastward.[1] + +This afternoon I re-ascended the hill, but could not discover that the +ice had been put in motion by the force of the wind. At the same time I +could just distinguish two small islands in the ice, to the North-West +by compass. I now thought it necessary to give a new net to my men to +mount, in order to obtain as much provision as possible from the water, +our stores being reduced to about five hundred weight, which, without +any other supply, would not have sufficed for fifteen people above +twelve days. One of the young Indians, however, was so fortunate as to +find the net that had been missing, and which contained three of the +poissons inconnus. + + +_Tuesday, 14._--It blew very hard from the North-West since the +preceding evening. Having sat up till three in the morning, I slept +longer than usual; but about eight one of my men saw a great many +animals in the water, which he at first supposed to be pieces of ice. +About nine, however, I was awakened to resolve the doubts which had +taken place respecting this extraordinary appearance. I immediately +perceived that they were whales; and having ordered the canoe to be +prepared, we embarked in pursuit of them. It was, indeed, a very wild +and unreflecting enterprise, and it was a very fortunate circumstance +that we failed in our attempt to overtake them, as a stroke from the +tail of one of these enormous fish would have dashed the canoe to +pieces. We may, perhaps, have been indebted to the foggy weather for +our safety, as it prevented us from continuing our pursuit. Our guide +informed us that they are the same kind of fish which are the principal +food of the Esquimaux, and they were frequently seen as large as our +canoe. The part of them which appeared above the water was altogether +white, and they were much larger than the largest porpoise. + +About twelve the fog dispersed, and being curious to take a view of the +ice, I gave orders for the canoe to be got in readiness. We accordingly +embarked, and the Indians followed us. We had not, however, been an +hour on the water, when the wind rose on a sudden from the North-East, +and obliged us to tack about, and the return of the fog prevented us +from ascertaining our distance from the ice; indeed, from this +circumstance, the island which we had so lately left was but dimly seen. +Though the wind was close, we ventured to hoist the sail, and from the +violence of the swell it was by great exertions that two men could bale +out the water from our canoe. We were in a state of actual danger, and +felt every corresponding emotion of pleasure when we reached the land. +The Indians had fortunately got more to windward, so that the swell in +some measure drove them on shore, though their canoes were nearly filled +with water: and had they been laden, we should have seen them no more. +As I did not propose to satisfy my curiosity at the risk of similar +dangers, we continued our course along, the islands, which screened us +from the wind. I was now determined to take a more particular +examination of the islands, in the hope of meeting with parties of the +natives, from whom I might be able to obtain some interesting +intelligence, though our conductor discouraged my expectations, by +representing them as very shy and inaccessible people. At the same time +he informed me, that we should probably find some of them, if we +navigated the channel which he had originally recommended us to enter. + +At eight we encamped on the Eastern end of the island, which I had named +the Whale Island. It is about seven leagues in length, East and West by +compass; but not more than half a mile in breadth. We saw several red +foxes, one of which was killed. There were also five or six very old +huts on the point where we had taken our station. The nets were now +set, and one of them in five fathom water, the current setting +North-East by compass. This morning I ordered a post to be erected +close to our tents, on which engraved the latitude of the place, my own +name, the number of persons which I had with me, and the time we +remained there. + + +_Wednesday, 15._--Being awakened by some casual circumstance, at four +this morning, I was surprised on perceiving that the water had flowed +under our baggage. As the wind had not changed, and did not blow with +greater violence than when we went to rest, we were all of opinion that +this circumstance proceeded from the tide. We had, indeed, observed at +the other end of the island, that the water rose and fell; but we then +imagined that it must have been occasioned by the wind. The water +continued to rise till about six, but I could not ascertain the time +with the requisite precision, as the wind then began to blow with great +violence; I therefore determined, at all events, to remain here till the +next morning, though, as it happened, the state of the wind was such, as +to render my stay here an act of necessity. Our nets were not very +successful, as they presented us with only eight fish. From an +observation which I obtained at noon we were in 69. 7. North latitude. +As the evening approached, the wind increased, and the weather became +cold. Two swans were the only provision which the hunters procured for +us. + + +_Thursday, 16._--The rain did not cease till seven this morning, the +weather being at intervals very cold and unpleasant. Such was its +inconstancy, that I could not make an accurate observation; but the tide +appeared to rise sixteen or eighteen inches. + +We now embarked, and steered under sail among the islands, where I hoped +to meet with some of the natives, but my expectation was not gratified. +Our guide imagined that they were gone to their distant haunts, where +they fish for whales and hunt the rein-deer, that are opposite to his +country. His relations, he said, see them every year, but he did not +encourage us to expect that we should find any of them, unless it were +at a small river that falls into the great one, from the Eastward, at a +considerable distance from our immediate situation. We accordingly made +for the river, and stemmed the current. At two in the afternoon the +water was quite shallow in every part of our course, and we could always +find the bottom with the paddle. At seven we landed, encamped, and set +the nets. Here the Indians killed two geese, two cranes, and a white +owl. Since we entered the river, we experienced a very agreeable change +in the temperature of the air; but this pleasant circumstance was not +without its inconvenience, as it subjected us to the persecution of the +mosquitoes. + + +_Friday, 17._--On taking up the nets, they were found to contain but +six fish. We embarked at four in the morning, and passed four +encampments; which appeared to have been very lately inhabited. We then +landed upon a small round island, close to the Eastern shore; which +possessed somewhat of a sacred character, as the top of it seemed to be +a place of sepulture, from the numerous graves which we observed there. +We found the frame of a small canoe, with various dishes, troughs, and +other utensils, which had been the living property of those who could +now use them no more, and form the ordinary accompaniments of their last +abodes. As no part of the skins that must have covered the canoe was +remaining, we concluded that it had been eaten by wild animals that +inhabit, or occasionally frequent, the island. The frame of the canoe, +which was entire, was put together with whale-bone; it was sewed in some +parts, and tied in others. The sledges were from four to eight feet +long; the length of the bars was upwards of two feet; the runners were +two inches thick and nine inches deep; the prow was two feet and an half +high, and formed of two pieces, sewed with whalebone, to three other +thin spars of wood, which were of the same height; and fixed in the +runners by means of mortises, were sewed two thin broad bars lengthways, +at a small distance from each other; these frames were fixed together +with three or four cross bars, tied fast upon the runners, and on the +lower edge of the latter, small pieces of horn were fastened by wooden +pegs, that they might slide with greater facility. They are drawn by +shafts, which I imagine are applied to any particular sledge as they are +wanted as I saw no more than one pair of them. + +About half past one we came opposite to the first spruce-tree that we +had seen for some time: there are but very few of them on the main land, +and they are very small: those are larger which are found on the +islands, where they grow in patches, and close together. It is, indeed, +very extraordinary that there should be any wood whatever in a country +where the ground never thaws above five inches from the surface. We +landed at seven in the evening. The weather was now very pleasant, and +in the course of the day we saw great numbers of wild fowl, with their +young ones, but they were so shy that we could not approach them. The +Indians were not very successful in their foraging party, as they killed +only two grey cranes, and a grey goose. Two of them were employed on +the high land to the Eastward, through the greater part of the day, in +search of rein-deer, but they could discover nothing more than a few +tracks of that animal. I also ascended the high land, from whence I had +a delightful view of the river, divided into innumerable streams, +meandering through islands, some of which were covered with wood and +others with grass. The mountains, that formed the opposite horizon, +were at the distance of forty miles. The inland view was neither so +extensive nor agreeable, being terminated by a near range of bleak, +barren hills, between which are small lakes or ponds, while the +surrounding country is covered with tufts of moss, without the shade of +a single tree. Along the hills is a kind of fence, made with branches, +where the natives had set snares to catch white partridges. + + +_Saturday, 18._--The nets did not produce a single fish, and at three +o'clock in the morning we took our departure. The weather was fine and +clear, and we passed several encampments. As the prints of human feet +were very fresh in the sand, it could not have been long since the +natives had visited the spot. We now proceeded in the hope of meeting +with some of them at the river, whither our guide was conducting us with +that expectation. We observed a great number of trees, in different +places, whose branches had been lopped off to the tops. They denote the +immediate abode of the natives, and probably serve for signals to direct +each other to their respective winter quarters. Our hunters, in the +course of the day, killed two rein-deer, which were the only large +animals that we had seen since we had been in this river, and proved a +very seasonable supply, as our pemmican had become mouldy for some time +past; though in that situation we were under the necessity of eating it. + +In the valleys and low lands near the river, cranberries are found in +great abundance, particularly in favourable aspects. It is a singular +circumstance, that the fruit of two succeeding years may be gathered at +the same time, from the same shrub. Here was also another berry, of a +very pale yellow colour, that resembles a raspberry, and is of a very +agreeable flavour. There is a great variety of other plants and herbs, +whose names and properties are unknown to me. + +The weather became cold towards the afternoon, with the appearance of +rain, and we landed for the night at seven in the evening. The Indians +killed eight geese. During the greater part of the day I walked with +the English chief, and found it very disagreeable and fatiguing. Though +the country is so elevated, it was one continual morass, except on the +summits of some barren hills. As I carried my hanger in my hand, I +frequently examined if any part of the ground was in a state of thaw, +but could never force the blade into it, beyond the depth of six or +eight inches. The face of the high land, towards the river, is in some +places rocky, and in others a mixture of sand and stone veined with a +kind of red earth, with which the natives bedaub themselves. + + +_Sunday, 19._--It rained, and blew hard from the North, till eight in +the morning, when we discovered that our conductor had escaped. I was, +indeed, surprised at his honesty, as he left the moose-skin which I had +given him for a covering, and went off in his shirt, though the weather +was very cold. I inquired of the Indians if they had given him any +cause of offence, or had observed any recent disposition in him to +desert us, but they assured me that they had not in any instance +displeased him: at the same time they recollected that he had expressed +his apprehensions of being taken away as a slave; and his alarms were +probably increased on the preceding day, when he saw them kill the two +rein-deer with so much readiness. In the afternoon the weather became +fine and clear, when we saw large flights of geese with their young +ones, and the hunters killed twenty-two of them. As they had at this +time cast their feathers, they could not fly. They were of a small +kind, and much inferior in size to those that frequent the vicinity of +Athabasca. At eight, we took our station near an Indian encampment, +and, as we had observed in similar situations, pieces of bone, +rein-deer's horn, &c., were scattered about it. It also appeared, that +the natives had been employed here in working wood into arms, utensils, +&c. + + +_Monday, 20._--We embarked at three this morning, when the weather was +cloudy, with small rain and aft wind. About twelve the rain became so +violent as to compel us to encamp at two in the afternoon. We saw great +numbers of fowl, and killed among us fifteen geese and four swans. Had +the weather been more favourable, we should have added considerably to +our booty. We now passed the river, where we expected to meet some of +the natives, but discovered no signs of them. The ground close to the +river does not rise to any considerable height, and the hills, which are +at a small distance, are covered with the spruce fir and small birch +trees, to their very summits. + + +_Tuesday, 21._--We embarked at half past one this morning, when the +weather was cold and unpleasant, and the wind South-West. At ten, we +left the channels formed by the islands for the uninterrupted channel of +the river, where we found the current so strong, that it was absolutely +necessary to tow the canoe with a line. The land on both sides was +elevated, and almost perpendicular, and the shore beneath it, which is +of no great breadth, was covered with a grey stone that falls from the +precipice. We made much greater expedition with the line than we could +have done with the paddles. The men in the canoe relieved two of those +on shore every two hours, so that it was very hard and fatiguing duty, +but it saved a great deal of that time which was so precious to us. At +half past eight we landed at the same spot where we had already encamped +on the ninth instant. + +In about an hour after our arrival, we were joined by eleven of the +natives, who were stationed farther up the river, and there were some +among them whom we had not seen during our former visit to this place. +The brother of our late guide, however, was of the party, and was eager +in his inquiries after him; but our account did not prove satisfactory. +They all gave evident tokens of their suspicion, and each of them made a +distinct harangue on the occasion. Our Indians, indeed, did not +understand their eloquence, though they conjectured it to be very +unfavourable to our assertions. The brother, nevertheless, proposed to +barter his credulity for a small quantity of beads, and promised to +believe every thing I should say, if I would gratify him with a few of +those baubles; but he did not succeed in his proposition, and I +contented myself with giving him the bow and arrows which our conductor +had left with us. + +My people were now necessarily engaged in putting the fire-arms in +order, after the violent rain of the preceding day; an employment which +very much attracted the curiosity, and appeared in some degree, to +awaken the apprehensions of the natives. To their inquiries concerning +the motives of our preparation, we answered by showing a piece of meat +and a goose, and informing them, that we were preparing our arms to +procure similar provisions: at the same time we assured them, though it +was our intention to kill any animals we might find, there was no +intention to hurt or injure them. They, however, entreated us not to +discharge our pieces in their presence. I requested the English chief +to ask them some questions, which they either did not or would not +understand; so that I failed in obtaining any information from them. + +All my people went to rest; but I thought it prudent to sit up, in order +to watch the motions of the natives. This circumstance was a subject of +their inquiry; and their curiosity was still more excited, when they saw +me employed in writing. About twelve o'clock I perceived four of their +women coming along the shore; and they were no sooner seen by their +friends, than they ran hastily to meet them, and persuaded two of them, +who, I suppose, were young, to return, while they brought the other two, +who were very old, to enjoy the warmth of our fire; but, after staying +there for about half an hour, they also retreated. Those who remained, +immediately kindled a small fire, and laid themselves down to sleep +round it, like so many whelps, having neither skins or garments of any +kind to cover them, notwithstanding the cold that prevailed. My people +having placed their kettle of meat on the fire, I was obliged to guard +it from the natives, who made several attempts to possess themselves of +its contents; and this was the only instance I had hitherto discovered, +of their being influenced by a pilfering disposition. It might, +perhaps, be a general opinion, that provisions were a common property. +I now saw the sun set for the first time since I had been here before. +During the preceding night, the weather was so cloudy, that I could not +observe its descent to the horizon. The water had sunk, at this place, +upward of three feet since we had passed down the river. + + +_Wednesday, 22._--We began our march at half past three this morning, +the men being employed to tow the canoe. I walked with the Indians to +their huts, which were at a greater distance than I had any reason to +expect, for it occupied three hours in hard walking to reach them. We +passed a narrow, and deep river in our way, at the mouth of which the +natives had set their nets. They had hid their effects, and sent their +young women into the woods, as we saw but very few of the former, and +none of the latter. They had large huts built with drift-wood on the +declivity of the beach and in the inside the earth was dug away, so as +to form a level floor. At each end was a stout fork, whereon was laid a +strong ridge-pole, which formed a support to the whole structure, and at +covering of spruce bark preserved it from the rain. Various spars of +different heights were fixed within the hut, and covered with split fish +that hung on them to dry; and fires were made in different parts to +accelerate the operation. There were rails also on the outside of the +building, which were hung around with fish, but in a fresher state than +those within. The spawn is also carefully preserved and dried in the +same manner. We obtained as many fish from them as the canoe could +conveniently contain, and some strings of beads were the price paid for +them, an article which they preferred to every other. Iron they held in +little or no estimation. + +During the two hours that I remained here, I employed the English chief +in a continual state of inquiry concerning these people. The +information that resulted from this conference was as follows: + +This nation or tribe is very numerous, with whom the Esquimaux had been +continually at variance, a people who take every advantage of attacking +those who are not in a state to defend themselves; and though they had +promised friendship, had lately, and in the most treacherous manner, +butchered some of their people. As a proof of this circumstance, the +relations of the deceased showed us, that they had cut off their hair on +the occasion. They also declared their determination to withdraw all +confidence in future from the Esquimaux, and to collect themselves in a +formidable body, that they might be enabled to revenge the death of +their friends. + +From their account, a strong party of Esquimaux occasionally ascends +this river, in large canoes, in search of flint stones, which they +employ to point their spears and arrows. They were now at their lake +due East from the spot where we then were, which was at no great +distance over land, where they kill the rein-deer, and that they would +soon begin to catch big fish for the winter stock. We could not, +however, obtain any information respecting the lake in the direction in +which we were. To the Eastward and Westward where they saw it, the ice +breaks up, but soon freezes again. + +The Esquimaux informed them that they saw large canoes full of white men +to the Westward, eight or ten winters ago, from whom they obtained iron +in exchange for leather. The lake where they met these canoes, is +called by them _Belhoullay Toe_, or White Man's Lake. They also +represented the Esquimaux as dressing like themselves. They wear their +hair short, and have two holes perforated, one on each side of the +mouth, in a line with the under lip, in which they place long beads that +they find in the lake. Their bows are somewhat different from those +used by the natives we had seen, and they employ slings from whence they +throw stones with such dexterity that they prove very formidable weapons +in the day of battle. + +We also learned in addition from the natives, that we should not see any +more of their relations, as they had all left the river to go in pursuit +of rein-deer for their provisions, and that they themselves should +engage in a similar expedition in a few days. Rein-deer, bears, +wolverines, martens, foxes, hares, and white buffaloes are the only +quadrupeds in their country; and that the latter were only to be found +in the mountains to the Westward. + +We proceeded with the line throughout the day, except two hours, when we +employed the sail. We encamped at eight in the evening. From the place +we quitted this morning, the banks of the river are well covered with +small wood, spruce, firs, birch, and willow. We found it very warm +during the whole of our progress. + + +_Thursday, 23._--At five in the morning we proceeded on our voyage, +but found it very difficult to travel along the beach. We observed +several places where the natives had stationed themselves and set their +nets since our passage downwards. We passed a small river, and at five +o'clock our Indians put to shore in order to encamp, but we proceeded +onwards, which displeased them very much, from the fatigue they +suffered, and at eight we encamped at our position of the 8th instant. +The day was very fine, and we employed the towing line throughout the +course of it. At ten, our hunters returned, sullen and dissatisfied. +We had not touched any of our provision stores for six days, in which +time we had consumed two rein-deer, four swans, forty-five geese, and a +considerable quantity of fish: but it is to be considered, that we were +ten men, and four women. I have always observed, that the north men +possessed very hearty appetites, but they were very much exceeded by +those with me since we entered this river. I should really have thought +it absolute gluttony in my people, if my own appetite had not increased +in a similar proportion. + + +[1] The longitude has since been discovered, by the dead reckoning, to +be 135. West. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +JULY, 1789. + +_Friday, 24._--At five we continued our course, but, in a very short +time, were under the necessity of applying to the aid of the line, the +stream being so strong as to render all our attempts unavailing to stem +it with the paddles. We passed a small river, on each side of which the +natives and Esquimaux collect flint. The bank is an high, steep, and +soft rock, variegated with red, green, and yellow hues. From the +continual dripping of water, parts of it frequently fall and break into +small stony flakes like slate, but not so hard. Among them are found +pieces of _Petrolium_, which bears a resemblance to yellow wax, but is +more friable. The English chief informed me that rocks of a similar +kind are scattered about the country at the back of the Slave Lake, +where the Chepewyans collect copper. + +At ten, we had an aft wind, and the men who had been engaged in towing, +re-embarked. At twelve, we observed a lodge on the side of the river, +and its inhabitants running about in great confusion, or hurrying to the +woods. Three men waited our arrival, though they remained at some +distance from us, with their bows and arrows ready to be employed; or at +least, that appeared to be the idea they wished to convey to us, by +continually snapping the strings of the former, and the signs they made +to forbid our approach. The English chief, whose language they, in some +degree understood, endeavoured to remove their distrust of us; but till +I went to them with a present of beads, they refused to have any +communication with us. + +When they first perceived our sail, they took us for the Esquimaux +Indians, who employ a sail in their canoes. They were suspicious of our +designs, and questioned us with a view to obtain some knowledge of them. +On seeing us in possession of some of the clothes, bows, etc., which +must have belonged to some of the Deguthee Denees, or Quarrellers, they +imagined that we had killed some of them, and were bearing away the +fruits of our victory. They appeared, indeed, to be of the same tribe, +though they were afraid of acknowledging it. From their questions, it +was evident that they had not received any notice of our being in those +parts. + +They would not acknowledge that they had any women with them, though we +had seen them running to the woods; but pretended that they had been +left at a considerable distance from the river, with some relations, who +were engaged in killing rein-deer. These people had been here but a +short time, and their lodge was not yet completed; nor had they any fish +in a state of preparation for their provision. I gave them a knife and +some beads for an horn-wedge or chisel, with which they split their +canoe-wood. One of my Indians having broken his paddle, attempted to +take one of theirs, which was immediately contested by its owner, and on +my interfering to prevent this act of injustice, he manifested his +gratitude to me on the occasion. We lost an hour and a half in this +conference. + +The English chief was during the whole of the time in the woods, where +some of the hidden property was discovered, but the women contrived to +elude the search that was made after them. Some of these articles were +purloined, but I was ignorant of this circumstance till we had taken our +departure, or I should have given an ample remuneration. Our chief +expressed his displeasure at their running away to conceal themselves, +their property, and their young women, in very bitter terms. He said +his heart was against those slaves; and complained aloud of his +disappointment in coming so far without seeing the natives, and getting +something from them. + +We employed the sail and the paddle since ten this morning, and pitched +our tents at seven in the evening. We had no sooner encamped than we +were visited by an Indian whom we had seen before, and whose family was +at a small distance up the river: at nine he left us. The weather was +clear and serene. + + +_Saturday, 25._--We embarked this morning at a quarter past three, and +at seven we passed the lodge of the Indian who had visited us the +preceding evening. There appeared to have been more than one family, +and we naturally concluded that our visitor had made such an +unfavourable report of us, as to induce his companions to fly on our +approach. Their fire was not extinguished, and they had left a +considerable quantity of fish scattered about their dwelling. + +The weather was now very sultry; but the current had relaxed of its +force, so that the paddle was sufficient for our progress during the +greatest part of the day. The inland part of the country is mountainous +and the banks of the river low, but covered with wood, among which is +the poplar, but of small growth, and the first which we had seen on our +return. A pigeon also flew by us, and hares appeared to be in great +plenty. We passed many Indian encampments which we did not see in our +passage down the river. About seven the sky, to the Westward, became of +a steel blue colour, with lightning and thunder. We accordingly landed +to prepare ourselves against the coming storm; but before we could erect +our tents, it came on with such violence that we expected it to carry +every thing before it. The ridgepole of my tent was broken in the +middle, where it was sound, and nine inches and an half in +circumference; and we were obliged to throw ourselves flat on the ground +to escape being wounded by the stones that were hurled about in the air +like sand. The violence of the storm, however, subsided in a short +time, but left the sky overcast with the appearance of rain. + + +_Sunday, 26._--It rained from the preceding evening to this morning, +when we embarked at four o'clock. At eight we landed at three large +Indian lodges. Their inhabitants, who were asleep, expressed uncommon +alarm and agitation when they were awakened by us, though most of them +had seen us before. Their habitations were crowded with fish, hanging +to dry in every part; but as we wanted some for present use, we sent +their young men to visit the nets, and they returned with abundance of +large white fish, to which the name has been given of _poisson inconnu_; +some of a round shape, and green colour; and a few white ones; all which +were very agreeable food. Some beads, and a few other trifles, were +gratefully received in return. These people are very fond of iron work +of any kind, and my men purchased several of their articles for small +pieces of tin. + +There were five or six persons whom we had not seen before; and among +them was a Dog-rib Indian, whom some private quarrel had driven from his +country. The English chief understood him as well as one of his own +nation, and gave the following account of their conversation:-- + +He had been informed by the people with whom he now lives, the Hare +Indians, that there is another river on the other side of the mountains +to the South-West, which falls into the _Belhoullay Teo_, or +White-man's Lake, in comparison of which that on whose banks we then +were, was but a small stream; that the natives were very large, and very +wicked, and kill common men with their eyes; that they make canoes +larger than ours; that those who inhabit the entrance of it kill a kind +of beaver, the skin of which is almost red; and that large canoes often +frequent it. As there is no known communication by water with this +river, the natives who saw it went over the mountains. + +As he mentioned that there were some beavers in this part of the +country, I told him to hunt it, and desire the others to do the same, as +well as the martens, foxes, beaver-eater or wolverine, &c., which they +might carry to barter for iron with his own nation, who are supplied +with goods by us, near their country. He was anxious to know whether +`we should return that way; at the same time he informed us, that we +should see but few of the natives along the river, as all the young men +were engaged in killing rein-deer, near the Esquimaux Lake, which, he +also said, was at no great distance. The latter he represented as very +treacherous, and added, that they had killed one of his people. He told +us likewise, that some plan of revenge was meditating, unless the +offending party paid a sufficient price for the body of the murdered +person. + +My Indians were very anxious to possess themselves of a woman that was +with the natives, but as they were not willing to part with her, I +interfered, to prevent her being taken by force; indeed, I was obliged +to exercise the utmost vigilance, as the Indians who accompanied me were +ever ready to take what they could from the natives, without making them +any return. About twelve, we passed a river of some appearance, flowing +from the Eastward. One of the natives who followed us, called it the +Winter Road River. We did not find the stream strong to-day, along the +shore, as there were many eddy currents; we therefore employed the sail +during some hours of it, and went on shore for the night at half past +seven. + + +_Monday, 27._--The weather was now fine, and we renewed our voyage at +half past two. At seven we landed where there were three families, +situated close to the rapids. We found but few people; for as the +Indian who followed us yesterday had arrived here before us, we supposed +that the greater part had fled, on the intelligence which he gave of our +approach. Some of these people we had seen before, when they told us +that they had left their property at a lake in the neighbourhood, and +had promised to fetch it before our return; but we now found them as +unprovided as when we left them. They had plenty of fish, some of which +was packed up in birch bark. + +During the time we remained with them, which was not more than two +hours, I endeavoured to obtain some additional intelligence respecting +the river which had been mentioned on the preceding day; when they +declared their total ignorance of it, but from the reports of others, as +they had never been beyond the mountains, on the opposite side of their +own river; they had, however, been informed that it was larger than that +which washed the banks whereon they lived, and that its course was +towards the mid-day sun. They added, that there were people at a small +distance up the river, who inhabited the opposite mountains, and had +lately descended from them to obtain supplies of fish. These people, +they suggested, must be well acquainted with the other river, which was +the object of my inquiry. I engaged one of them, by a bribe of some +beads, to describe the circumjacent country upon the sand. This +singular map he immediately undertook to delineate, and accordingly +traced out a very long point of land between the rivers, though without +paying the least attention to their courses, which he represented as +running into the great lake, at the extremity of which, as he had been +told by Indians of other nations, there was a Belhoullay Couin, or White +Man's Fort. This I took to be Unalascha Fort, and consequently the +river to the West to be Cook's River; and that the body of water or sea +into which this river discharges itself at Whale Island, communicates +with Norton Sound. I made an advantageous proposition to this man to +accompany me across the mountains to the other river, but he refused it. +At the same time he recommended me to the people already mentioned, who +were fishing in the neighbourhood, as better qualified to assist me in +the undertaking which I had proposed. + +One of this small company of natives was grievously afflicted with +ulcers in his back, and the only attention which was paid to his +miserable condition, as far at least as we could discover, proceeded +from a woman, who carefully employed a bunch of feathers in preventing +the flies from settling upon his sores. + +At ten this morning we landed near the lodges which had already been +mentioned to us, and I ordered my people to make preparation for passing +the remaining part of the day here, in order to obtain that familiarity +with the natives which might induce them to afford me, without reserve, +the information that I should require from them. This object, however, +was in danger of being altogether frustrated, by a misunderstanding that +had taken place between the natives and my young Indians, who had +already arrived there. Before the latter could disembark, the former +seized the canoe, and dragged it on shore, and in this act of violence +the boat was broken, from the weight of the persons in it. This insult +was on the point of being seriously revenged, when I arrived, to prevent +the consequences of such a disposition. The variation of the compass +was about twenty-nine degrees to the East. + +At four in the afternoon I ordered my interpreter to harangue the +natives, assembled in council; but his long discourse obtained little +satisfactory intelligence from them. Their account of the river to the +Westward, was similar to that which he had already received: and their +description of the inhabitants of that country was still more absurd and +ridiculous. They represented them as being of a gigantic stature, and +adorned with wings; which, however, they never employed in flying. That +they fed on large birds, which they killed with the greatest ease, +though common men would be certain victims of their ferocity if they +ventured to approach them. They also described the people that +inhabited the mouth of the river as possessing the extraordinary power +of killing with their eyes, and devouring a large beaver at a single +meal. They added that canoes of very large dimensions visited that +place. They did not, however, relate these strange circumstances from +their own knowledge, but on the reports of other tribes, as they +themselves never ventured to proceed beyond the first mountains, where +they went in search of the small white buffaloes, as the inhabitants of +the other side endeavour to kill them whenever they meet. They likewise +mentioned that the sources of those streams which are tributary to both +the great rivers are separated by the mountains. It appeared to us, +however, that these people knew more about the country than they chose +to communicate, or at least reached me, as the interpreter, who had long +been tired of the voyage, might conceal such a part of their +communications as, in his opinion, would induce me to follow new routes, +or extend my excursions. + +No sooner was the conference concluded, than they began to dance, which +is their favourite, and, except jumping, their only amusement. In this +pastime old and young, male and female, continued their exertions, till +their strength was exhausted. This exercise was accompanied by loud +imitations of the various noises produced by the rein-deer, the bear, +and the wolf. When they had finished their antics, I desired the +English chief to renew the former subjects; which he did without +success. I therefore assumed an angry air, expressed my suspicions that +they withheld their information, and concluded with a menace, that if +they did not give me all the satisfaction in their power, I would force +one of them along with me to-morrow, to point out the other river. On +this declaration, they all, at one and the same moment, became sick, and +answered in a very faint tone, that they knew no more than they had +already communicated, and that they should die if I took any of them +away. They began to persuade my interpreter to remain with them, as +they loved him as well as they did themselves, and that he would be +killed if he continued with me. Nor did this proposition, aided as it +was by the solicitation of his women, fail of producing a considerable +effect upon him, though he endeavoured to conceal it from me. + +I now found that it would be fruitless for me to expect any accounts of +the country, or the other great river, till I got to the river of the +Bear Lake, where I expected to find some of the natives, who promised to +wait for us there. These people had actually mentioned this river to me +when we passed them, but I then paid no attention to that circumstance, +as I imagined it to be either a misunderstanding of my interpreter, or +that it was an invention which, with their other lies, might tend to +prevent me from proceeding down their river. + +We were plentifully supplied with fish, as well dry as fresh, by these +people; they also gathered as many hurtle-berries as we chose, for which +we paid with the usual articles of beads, awls, knives, and tin. I +purchased a few beaver-skins of them, which, according to their +accounts, are not very numerous in this country; and that they do not +abound in moose-deer and buffaloes. They were alarmed for some of their +young men, who were killing geese higher up the river, and entreated us +to do them no harm. About sunset I was under the necessity of shooting +one of their dogs, as we could not keep those animals from our baggage. +It was in vain that I had remonstrated on this subject, so that I was +obliged to commit the act which has been just mentioned. When these +people heard the report of the pistol, and saw the dog dead, they were +seized with a very general alarm, and the women took their children on +their backs and ran into the woods. I ordered the cause of this act of +severity to be explained, with the assurance that no injury would be +offered to themselves. The woman, however, to whom the dog belonged, +was very much affected, and declared that the loss of five children, +during the preceding winter, had not affected her so much as the death +of this animal. But her grief was not of very long duration; and a few +beads, &c., soon assuaged her sorrow. But as they can without +difficulty get rid of their affliction, they can with equal ease assume +it, and feign sickness if it be necessary with the same versatility. +When we arrived this morning, we found the women in tears, from an +apprehension that we were come to take them away. To the eye of an +European they certainly were objects of disgust; but there were those +among my party who observed some hidden charms in these females which +rendered them objects of desire, and means were found, I believe, that +very soon dissipated their alarms and subdued their coyness. + +On the upper part of the beach, liquorice grew in great abundance and it +was now in blossom. I pulled up some of the roots, which were large and +long; but the natives were ignorant of its qualities, and considered it +as a weed of no use or value. + + +_Tuesday, 28._--At four this morning I ordered my people to prepare +for our departure; and while they were loading the canoe, I went with +the English chief to visit the lodges, but the greater part of their +inhabitants had quitted them during the night, and those that remained +pretended sickness and refused to rise. When, however, they were +convinced that we did not mean to take any of them with us, their +sickness abandoned them, and when we had embarked, they came forth from +their huts, to desire that we would visit their nets, which were at a +small distance up the river, and take all the fish we might find in +them. We accordingly availed ourselves of this permission, and took as +many as were necessary for our own supply. + +We landed shortly after where there were two more lodges, which were +full of fish, but without any inhabitants, who were probably with the +natives whom we had just left. My Indians, in rummaging these places, +found several articles which they proposed to take; I therefore gave +beads and awls to be left as the purchase of them; but this act of +justice they were not able to comprehend, as the people themselves were +not present. I took up a net and left a large knife in the place of it. +It was about four fathoms long, and thirty-two meshes in depth; these +nets are much more convenient to set in the eddy current than our long +ones. This is the place that the Indians call a rapid, though we went +up it all the way with the paddle; so that the current could not be so +strong here, as in many other parts of the river; indeed, if it were so, +the difficulty of towing would be almost insuperable, as in many parts, +the rocks, which are of a great height, and rather project over the +water, leave no shore between them and the stream. These precipices +abound in swallows' nests. The weather was now very sultry, and at +eleven we were under the necessity of landing to gum our canoe. + +In about an hour we set forward, and at one in the afternoon, went on +shore at a fire, which we supposed to have been kindled by the young +men, who, as we had been already informed, were hunting geese. Our +hunters found their canoe and the fowl they had got, secreted in the +woods; and soon after, the people themselves, whom they brought to the +water side. Out of two hundred geese, we picked thirty-six which were +eatable; the rest were putrid, and emitted a horrid stench. They had +been killed some time without having been gutted, and in this state of +loathsome rottenness, we have every reason to suppose they are eaten by +the natives. We paid for those which we had taken, and departed. At +seven in the evening, the weather became cloudy and overcast; at eight +we encamped; at nine it began to thunder with great violence; a heavy +rain succeeded, accompanied with a hurricane, that blew down our tents, +and threatened to carry away the canoe, which had been fastened to some +trees with a cod-line. The storm lasted two hours, and deluged us with +wet. + + +_Wednesday, 29._--Yesterday the weather was cloudy, and the heat +insupportable; and now we could not put on clothes enough to keep us +warm. We embarked at a quarter past four with an aft wind, which drove +us on at a great rate, though the current is very strong. At ten we +came to the other rapid, which we got up with the line on the West side, +where we found it much stronger than when we went down; the water had +also fallen at least five feet since that time, so that several shoals +appeared in the river which we had not seen before, One of my hunters +narrowly escaped being drowned in crossing a river that falls in from +the Westward, and is the most considerable, except the mountain river, +that flows in this direction. We had strong Northerly and cold wind +throughout the whole of the day, and took our station for the night at a +quarter past eight. We killed a goose and caught some young ones. + + +_Thursday, 30._--We renewed our voyage at four this morning, after a +very rainy night. The weather was cloudy, but the cold had moderated, +and the wind was North-West. We were enabled to employ the sail during +part of the day, and encamped at about seven in the evening. We killed +eleven old geese and forty young ones which had just begun to fly. The +English chief was very much irritated against one of his young men: that +jealousy occasioned this uneasiness, and that it was not without very +sufficient cause, was all I could discover. For the last two or three +days we had eaten the liquorice root, of which there is a great +abundance on the banks of the river. We found it a powerful astringent. + + +_Friday, 31._--The rain was continual throughout the night, and did not +subside till nine this morning, when we renewed our progress. The wind +and weather the same as yesterday. About three in the afternoon it +cleared up and the wind died away, when it became warm. At five the +wind veered to the East, and brought cold along with it. There were +plenty of whortle berries, raspberries, and a berry called _poire_, +which grows in the greatest abundance. We were very much impeded in our +way by shoals of sand and small stones which render the water shallow at +a distance from the shore. In other places the bank of the river is +lofty: it is formed of black earth and sand, and, as it is continually +falling, displayed to us, in some parts, a face of solid ice, to within +a foot of the surface. We finished this day's voyage at a quarter +before eight, and in the course of it killed seven geese. + +We now had recourse to our corn, for we had only consumed three days of +our original provision since we began to mount the current. It was my +intention to have ascended the river on the South side from the last +rapid, to discover if there were any rivers of consequence that flow +from the Westward; but the sand-banks were so numerous and the current +so strong, that I was compelled to traverse to the opposite side, where +the eddy currents are very frequent, which gave us an opportunity of +setting our nets and making much more headway. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +AUGUST, 1789. + +_Saturday, 1._--We embarked at three this morning, the +weather being clear and cold, with the wind at South-East. At three in +the afternoon we traversed and landed to take the canoe in tow: here was +an encampment of the natives, which we had reason to suppose they had +quitted the preceding day. At five we perceived a family, consisting of +a man, two women, and as many children, stationed by the side of the +water, whom we had not seen before. They informed us, that they had but +few fish, and that none of their friends were in the neighbourhood, +except the inhabitants of one lodge on the other side of the river, and +a man who belonged to them, and who was now occupied in hunting. I now +found my interpreter very unwilling to ask such questions as were +dictated to him, from the apprehension, as I imagined, that I might +obtain such intelligence as would prevent him from seeing Athabasca this +season. We left him with the Indian, and pitched our tents at the same +place where we had passed the night on the fifth of last month. The +English chief came along with the Indian to our fire; and the latter +informed us that the native who went down part of the river with us had +passed there, and that we should meet with three lodges of his tribe +above the river of the Bear Lake. Of the river to the Westward he knew +nothing, but from the relation of others. This was the first night +since our departure from Athabasca, when it was sufficiently dark to +render the stars visible. + + +_Sunday, 2._--We set off at three this morning with the towing-line. +I walked with my Indians, as they went faster than the canoe, and +particularly as I suspected that they wanted to arrive at the huts of +the natives before me. In our way, I observed several small springs of +mineral water running from the foot of the mountain, and along the beach +I saw several lumps of iron ore. When we came to the river of the Bear +Lake, I ordered one of the young Indians to wait for my canoe, and I +took my place in their small canoe. This river is about two hundred and +fifty yards broad at this place, the water clear and of a greenish +colour. When I landed on the opposite shore, I discovered that the +natives had been there very lately from the print of their feet in the +sand. We continued walking till five in the afternoon, when we saw +several smokes along the shore. As we naturally concluded, that these +were certain indications where we should meet the natives who were the +objects of our search we quickened our pace; but, in our progress, +experienced a very sulphurous smell, and at length discovered that the +whole bank was on fire for a very considerable distance. It proved to +be a coal mine, to which the fire had communicated from an old Indian +encampment. The beach was covered with coals, and the English chief +gathered some of the softest he could find, as a black dye; it being the +mineral, as he informed me, with which the natives render their quills +black. + +Here we waited for the large canoe, which arrived an hour after us. At +half past ten we saw several Indian marks, which consisted of pieces of +bark fixed on poles, and pointing to the woods, opposite to which is an +old beaten road, that bore the marks of being lately frequented; the +beach also was covered with tracks. At a small distance were the poles +of five lodges standing; where we landed and unloaded our canoe. I then +despatched one of my men and two young Indians to see if they could find +any natives within a day's march of us. I wanted the English chief to +go, but he pleaded fatigue, and that it would be of no use. This was +the first time he had refused to comply with my desire, and jealousy, I +believe, was the cause of it in the present instance; though I had taken +every precaution that he should not have cause to be jealous of the +Canadians. There was not, at this time, the least appearance of snow on +the opposite mountains, though they were almost covered with it, when we +passed before. Set two nets, and at eleven o'clock at night the men and +Indians returned. They had been to their first encampment, where there +were four fires, and which had been quitted a short time before; so that +they were obliged to make the circuit of several small lakes, which the +natives cross with their canoes. This encampment was on the borders of +a lake which was too large for them to venture round it, so that they +did not proceed any further. They saw several beavers and beaver lodges +in those small lakes. They killed one of these animals whose fur began +to get long, a sure indication that the fall of the year approaches. +They also saw many old tracks of the moose and reindeer. This is the +time when the rein-deer leave the plains to come to the woods, as the +mosquitoes begin to disappear; I, therefore, apprehended that we should +not find a single Indian on the river side, as they would be in or about +the mountains setting snares to take them. + + +_Monday, 3._--We proceeded with a strong Westerly wind, at four this +morning, the weather being cloudy and cold. At twelve it cleared up and +became fine; the current also increased. The water had fallen so much +since our passage down the river, that here, as in other places, we +discovered many shoals which were not then visible. We killed several +geese of a larger size than those which we had generally seen. Several +Indian encampments were seen along the river, and we landed at eight for +the night. + + +_Tuesday, 4._--At four in the morning we renewed our course, when it +was fine and calm. The night had been cold and a very heavy dew had +fallen. At nine we were obliged to land in order to gum the canoe, when +the weather became extremely warm. Numerous tracks of rein-deer +appeared on the side of the river. At half past five we took our +station for the night, and set the nets. The current was very strong +all day, and we found it very difficult to walk along the beach, from +the large stones which were scattered over it. + + +_Wednesday, 5._--We raised our nets, but had not the good fortune to +take a single fish. The water was now become so low that the eddy +currents would not admit of setting them. The current had not relaxed +its strength; and the difficulty of walking along the beach was +continued. The air was now become so cold; that our exercise, violent +as it was, scarce kept us warm. We passed several points which we +should not have accomplished, if the canoe had been loaded. We were +very much fatigued, and at six were glad to conclude our toilsome march. +The Indians killed two geese. The women, who did not quit the canoe, +were continually employed in making shoes of moose-skin, for the men, as +a pair did not last more than a day. + + +_Thursday, 6._--The rain prevented us from proceeding till half past +six, when we had a strong aft wind, which, aided by the paddles, drove +us on at a great rate. We encamped at six to wait for our Indians, whom +we had not seen since the morning; and at half past seven they arrived +very much dissatisfied with their day's journey. Two days had now +elapsed since we had seen the least appearance of Indian habitations. + + +_Friday, 7._--We embarked at half past three, and soon after perceived +two rein-deer on the beach before us. We accordingly checked our +course; but our Indians, in contending who should be the first to get +near these animals, alarmed and lost them. We, however, killed a female +rein-deer, and from the wounds in her hind legs, it was supposed that +she had been pursued by wolves, who had devoured her young one: her +udder was full of milk, and one of the young Indians poured it among +some boiled corn, which he ate with great delight, esteeming it a very +delicious food. At five in the afternoon we saw an animal running along +the beach, but could not determine whether it was a grey fox or a dog. +In a short time, we went ashore for the night, at the entrance of a +small river, as I thought there might be some natives in the vicinity of +the place. I ordered my hunters to put their fusees in order, and gave +them ammunition to proceed on a hunting party the next day; they were +also instructed to discover if there were any natives in the +neighbouring mountains. I found a small canoe at the edge of the woods, +which contained a paddle and a bow: it had been repaired this spring, +and the workmanship of the bark excelled any that I had yet seen. We +saw several encampments in the course of the day. The current of the +river was very strong, and along the points equal to rapids. + + +_Saturday, 8._--The rain was very violent throughout the night, and +continued till the afternoon of this day, when the weather began to +clear, with a strong, cold, and Westerly wind. At three the Indians +proceeded on the hunting expedition, and at eight they returned without +having met with the least success; though they saw numerous tracks of +the rein-deer. They came to an old beaten road, which one of them +followed for some time; but it did not appear to have been lately +frequented. The rain now returned, and continued till the morning. + + +_Sunday, 9._--We renewed our voyage at half past three, the weather +being cold and cloudy; but at ten it became clear and moderate. We saw +another canoe at the outside of the wood, and one of the Indians killed +a dog, which was in a meagre, emaciated condition. We perceived various +places where the natives had made their fires; for these people reside +but a short time near the river, and remove from one bank to the other, +as it suits their purposes. We saw a path which was connected with +another on the opposite side of the river. The water had risen +considerably since last night, and there had been a strong current +throughout the day. At seven we made to the shore and encamped. + + +_Monday, 10._--At three this morning we returned to our canoe; the +weather fine and clear, with a light wind from the South-East. The +Indians were before us in pursuit of game. At ten we landed opposite to +the mountains which we had passed on the second of the last month, in +order to ascertain the variation of the compass at this place: but this +was accomplished in a very imperfect manner, as I could not depend on my +watch. One of the hunters joined us here, fatigued and unsuccessful. +As these mountains are the last of any considerable magnitude on the +South-West side of the river, I ordered my men to cross to that side of +it, that I might ascend one of them. It was near four in the afternoon +when I landed, and I lost no time in proceeding to the attainment of my +object. I was accompanied only by a young Indian, as the curiosity of +my people was subdued by the fatigue they had undergone; and we soon had +reason to believe that we should pay dearly for the indulgence of our +own. The wood, which was chiefly of spruce firs, was so thick that it +was with great difficulty we made our way through it. When we had +walked upwards of an hour, the under-wood decreased, while the white +birch and poplar were the largest and tallest of their kind that I had +ever seen. The ground now began to rise, and was covered with small +pines, and at length we got the first view of the mountains since we had +left the canoe; as they appeared to be no nearer to us, though we had +been walking for three hours, than when we had seen them from the river, +my companion expressed a very great anxiety to return; his shoes and +leggins were torn to pieces, and he was alarmed at the idea of passing +through such bad roads during the night. I persisted, however, in +proceeding, with a determination to pass the night on the mountains and +return on the morrow. As we approached them, the ground was quite +marshy, and we waded in water and grass up to the knees, till we came +within a mile of them, when I suddenly sunk up to my arm-pits, and it +was with some difficulty that I extricated myself from this disagreeable +situation. I now found it impossible to proceed; to cross this marshy +ground in a straight line was impracticable, and it extended so far to +the right and left, that I could not attempt to make the circuit; I +therefore determined to return to the canoe, and arrived there about +midnight, very much fatigued with this fruitless journey. + + +_Tuesday, 11._--We observed several tracks along the beach, and an +encampment at the edge of the woods, which appeared to be five or six +days old. We should have continued our route along this side of the +river, but we had not seen our hunters since yesterday morning. We +accordingly embarked before three, and at five traversed the river, when +we saw two of them coming down in search of us. They had killed no +other animals than one beaver, and a few hares. According to their +account, the woods were so thick that it was impossible to follow the +game through them. They had seen several of the natives' encampments, +at no great distance from the river and it was their opinion that they +had discovered us in our passage down it, and had taken care to avoid +us; which accounted for the small number we had seen on our return. + +I requested the English chief to return with me to the other side of the +river, in order that he might proceed to discover the natives, whose +tracks and habitations we had seen there; but he was backward in +complying with my desire, and proposed to send the young men; but I +could not trust to them, and at the same time was become rather doubtful +of him. They were still afraid lest I should obtain such accounts of +the other river as would induce me to travel overland to it, and that +they should be called upon to accompany me. I was, indeed, informed by +one of my own people, that the English chief, his wives and companions, +had determined to leave me on this side of the Slave Lake, in order to +go to the country of the Beaver Indians, and that about the middle of +the winter he would return to that lake, where he had appointed to meet +some of his relations, who, during the last spring, had been engaged in +war. + +We now traversed the river, and continued to track the Indians till past +twelve, when we lost all traces of them; in consequence, as we imagined, +of their having crossed to the Eastern side. We saw several dogs on +both shores; and one of the young Indians killed a wolf, which the men +ate with great satisfaction: we shot, also, fifteen young geese that +were now beginning to fly. It was eight when we took our evening +station, having lost four hours in making our traverses. There was no +interruption of the fine weather during the course of this day. + + +_Wednesday, 12._--We proceeded on our voyage at three this morning, +and despatched the two young Indians across the river, that we might not +miss any of the natives that should be on the banks of it. We saw many +places where fires had been lately made along the beach, as well as fire +running in the woods. At four we arrived at an encampment which had +been left this morning. Their tracks were observable in several places +in the woods, and as it might be presumed that they could not be at any +great distance, it was proposed to the chief to accompany me in search +of them. We accordingly, though with some hesitation on his part, +penetrated several miles into the woods, but without discovering the +objects of our research. The fire had spread all over the country, and +had burned about three inches of the black, light soil, which covered a +body of cold clay, that was so hard as not to receive the least +impression of our feet. At ten we returned from our unsuccessful +excursion. In the mean time the hunters had killed seven geese. There +were several showers of rain, accompanied with gusts of wind and +thunder. The nets had been set during our absence. + + +_Thursday, 13._--The nets were taken up, but not one fish was found in +them; and at half past three we continued our route, with very +favourable weather. We passed several places, where fires had been made +by the natives, and many tracks were perceptible along the beach. At +seven we were opposite the island where our pemmican had been concealed: +two of the Indians were accordingly despatched in search of it, and it +proved very acceptable, as it rendered us more independent of the +provisions which were to be obtained by our fowling pieces, and +qualified us to get out of the river without that delay which our +hunters would otherwise have required. In a short time we perceived a +smoke on the shore to the South-West, at the distance of three leagues, +which did not appear to proceed from any running fire. The Indians, who +were a little way ahead of us, did not discover it, being engaged in +the pursuit of a flock of geese, at which they fired several shots, when +the smoke immediately disappeared; and in a short time we saw several of +the natives run along the shore, some of whom entered their canoes. +Though we were almost opposite to them, we could not cross the river +without going further up it, from the strength of the current; I +therefore ordered our Indians to make every possible exertion, in order +to speak with them, and wait our arrival. But as soon as our small +canoe struck off, we could perceive the poor affrighted people hasten to +the shore, and after drawing their canoes on the beach, hurry into the +woods. It was past ten before we landed at the place where they had +deserted their canoes, which were four in number. They were so +terrified that they had left several articles on the beach. I was very +much displeased with my Indians, who instead of seeking the natives, +were dividing their property. I rebuked the English chief with some +severity for his conduct, and immediately ordered him, his young men, +and my own people, to go in search of the fugitives, but their fears had +made them too nimble for us, and we could not overtake them. We saw +several dogs in the woods, and some of them followed us to our canoe. + +The English chief was very much displeased at my reproaches, and +expressed himself to me in person to that effect. This was the very +opportunity which I wanted, to make him acquainted with my +dissatisfaction for some time past. I stated to him that I had come a +great way, and at a very considerable expense, without having completed +the object of my wishes, and that I suspected he had concealed from me a +principal part of what the natives had told him respecting the country, +lest he should be obliged to follow me: that his reason for not killing +game, &c., was his jealousy, which likewise prevented him from looking +after the natives as he ought; and that we had never given him any cause +for any suspicions of us. These suggestions irritated him in a very +high degree, and he accused me of speaking ill words to him; he denied +the charge of jealousy, and declared that he did not conceal any thing +from us; and that as to the ill success of their hunting, it arose from +the nature of the country, and the scarcity, which had hitherto +appeared, of animals in it. He concluded by informing me that he would +not accompany me any further: that though he was without ammunition, he +could live in the same manner as the slaves (the name given to the +inhabitants of that part of the country), and that he would remain among +them. His harangue was succeeded by a loud and bitter lamentation; and +his relations assisted the vociferations of his grief; though they said +that their tears flowed for their dead friends. I did not interrupt +their grief for two hours, but as I could not well do without them, I +was at length obliged to soothe it, and induce the chief to change his +resolution, which he did, but with great apparent reluctance when we +embarked as we had hitherto done. + +The articles which the fugitives had left behind them, on the present +occasion, were bows, arrows, snares for moose and rein-deer, and for +hares; to these may be added a few dishes, made of bark, some skins of +the marten and the beaver, and old beaver robes, with a small robe made +of the skin of the lynx. Their canoes were coarsely made of the bark of +the spruce-fir, and will carry two or three people. I ordered my men to +remove them to the shade, and gave most of the other articles to the +young Indians. The English chief would not accept of any of them. In +the place, and as the purchase of them, I left some cloth, some small +knives, a file, two fire-steels, a comb, rings, with beads and awls. I +also ordered a marten skin to be placed on a proper mould, and a beaver +skin to be stretched on a frame, to which I tied a scraper. The Indians +were of opinion that all these articles would be lost, as the natives +were so much frightened that they would never return. Here we lost six +hours; and on our quitting the place, three of the dogs which I have +already mentioned followed us along the beach. + +We pitched our tents at half past eight, at the entrance of the river of +the mountain; and while the people were unloading the canoe, I took a +walk along the beach, and on the shoals, which being uncovered since we +passed down, by the sinking of the waters, were now white with a saline +substance. I sent for the English chief to sup with me, and a dram or +two dispelled all his heart-burning and discontent. He informed me that +it was a custom with the Chepewyan chiefs to go to war after they had +shed tears, in order to wipe away the disgrace attached to such a +feminine weakness, and that in the ensuing spring he should not fail to +execute his design; at the same time he declared his intention to +continue with us as long as I should want him. I took care that he +should carry some liquid consolation to his lodge, to prevent the return +of his chagrin. The weather was fine, and the Indians killed three +geese. + + +_Friday, 14._--At a quarter before four this morning, we returned to +our canoe, and went about two miles up the river of the mountains. Fire +was in the ground on each side of it. In traversing, I took soundings, +and found five, four and an half, and three and an half fathoms water. +Its stream was very muddy, and formed a cloudy streak along the water of +the great river, on the West side to the Eastern rapid, where the waters +of the two rivers at length blend in one. It was impossible not to +consider it as an extraordinary circumstance, that the current of the +former river should not incorporate with that of the latter, but flow, +as it were, in distinct streams at so great a distance, and till the +contracted state of the channel unites them. We passed several +encampments of the natives, and a river which flowed in from the North, +that had the appearance of being navigable. We concluded our voyage of +this day at half past five in the afternoon. There were plenty of +berries, which my people called _poires:_ they are of a purple hue, +somewhat bigger than a pea, and of a luscious taste; there were also +gooseberries, and a few strawberries. + + +_Saturday, 15._--We continued our course from three in the morning +till half past five in the afternoon. We saw several encampments along +the beach, till it became too narrow to admit them; when the banks rose +into a considerable degree of elevation, and there were more eddy +currents. The Indians killed twelve geese, and berries were collected +in great abundance. The weather was sultry throughout the day. + + +_Sunday, 16._--We continued our voyage at a quarter before four, and +in five hours passed the place where we had been stationed on the 13th +of June. Here the river widened, and its shores became flat. The land +on the North side is low, composed of a black soil, mixed with stones, +but agreeably covered with the aspen, the poplar, the white birch, the +spruce-fir, &c. The current was so moderate, that we proceeded upon it +almost as fast as in dead water. At twelve we passed an encampment of +three fires, which was the only one we saw in the course of the day. +The weather was the same as yesterday. + + +_Monday, 17._--We proceeded at half past three; and saw three +successive encampments. From the peculiar structure of the huts, we +imagined that some of the Red-Knife Indians had been in this part of the +country, though it is not usual for them to come this way. I had last +night ordered the young Indians to precede us, for the purpose of +hunting, and at ten we overtook them. They had killed five young swans; +and the English chief presented us with an eagle, three cranes, a small +beaver, and two geese. We encamped at seven this evening on the same +spot which had been our resting-place on the 29th of June. + + +_Tuesday, 18._--At four this morning I equipped all the Indians for an +hunting excursion, and sent them onward, as our stock of provision was +nearly exhausted. We followed at half past six, and crossed over to the +North shore, where the land is low and scarcely visible in the horizon. +It was near twelve when we arrived. I now got an observation, when it +was 61. 33. North latitude. We were near five miles to the North of the +main channel of the river. The fresh tracks and beds of buffaloes were +very perceptible. + +Near this place a river flowed in from the Horn Mountains, which are at +no great distance. We landed at five in the afternoon, and before the +canoe was unloaded, the English chief arrived with the tongue of a cow, +or female buffalo, when four men and the Indians were despatched for the +flesh; but they did not return till it was dark. They informed me, that +they had seen several human tracks in the sand on the opposite island. +The fine weather continued without interruption. + + +_Wednesday, 19._--The Indians were again sent forward in pursuit of +game; and some time being employed in gumming the canoe, we did not +embark till half past five, and at nine we landed to wait the return of +the hunters. I here found the variation of the compass to be about +twenty degrees East. + +The people made themselves paddles and repaired the canoe. It is an +extraordinary circumstance for which I do not pretend to account, that +there is some peculiar quality in the water of this river, which +corrodes wood, from the destructive effect it had on the paddles. The +hunters arrived at a late hour, without having seen any large animals. +Their booty consisted only of three swans and as many geese. The women +were employed in gathering cranberries and crowberries, which were found +in great abundance. + + +_Thursday, 20._--We embarked at four o'clock, and took the North side +of the channel, though the current was on that side much stronger, in +order to take a view of the river, which had been mentioned to me in our +passage downwards, as flowing from the country of the Beaver Indians, +and which fell in hereabouts. We could not, however, discover it, and +it is probable that the account was referable to the river which we had +passed on Tuesday. The current was very strong, and we crossed over to +an island opposite to us; here it was still more impetuous, and assumed +the hurry of a rapid. We found an awl and a paddle on the side of the +water; the former we knew to belong to the Knisteneaux: I supposed it to +be the chief Merde-d'ours and his party, who went to war last spring, +and had taken this route on their return to Athabasca. Nor is it +improbable that they may have been the cause that we saw so few of the +natives on the banks of this river. The weather was raw and cloudy, and +formed a very unpleasant contrast to the warm, sunny days, which +immediately preceded it. We took up our abode for the night at half +past seven, on the Northern shore, where the adjacent country is both +low and flat. The Indians killed live young swans, and a beaver. There +was an appearance of rain. + + +_Friday, 21._--The weather was cold, with a strong Easterly wind and +frequent showers, so that we were detained in our station. In the +afternoon the Indians got on the track of a moose-deer, but were not so +fortunate as to overtake it. + + +_Saturday, 22._--The wind veered round to the Westward, and continued +to blow strong and cold. We, however, renewed our voyage, and in three +hours reached the entrance of the Slave Lake, under half sail; with the +paddle, it would have taken us at least eight hours. The Indians did +not arrive till four hours after us; but the wind was so violent, that +it was not expedient to venture into the lake; we therefore set a net, +and encamped for the night. The women gathered large quantities of the +fruit already mentioned, called Pathagomenan, and cranberries, +crowberries, mooseberries, &c. The Indians killed two swans and three +geese. + + +_Sunday, 23._--The net produced but five small pike, and at five we +embarked, and entered the lake by the same channel through which we had +passed from it. The South-West side would have been the shortest, but +we were not certain of there being plenty of fish along the coast, and +we were sure of finding abundance of them in the course we preferred. +Besides, I expected to find my people at the place where I left them, as +they had received orders to remain there till the fall. + +We paddled a long way into a deep bay to get the wind, and having left +our mast behind us, we landed to cut another. We then hoisted sail, and +were driven on at a great rate. At twelve the wind and swell were +augmented to such a degree, that our under yard broke, but luckily the +mast thwart resisted, till we had time to fasten down the yard with a +pole, without lowering sail. We took in a large quantity of water, and +had our mast given way, in all probability, we should have filled and +sunk. Our course continued to be very dangerous, along a flat +lee-shore, without being able to land till three in the afternoon. Two +men were continually employed in bailing out the water which we took in +on all sides. We fortunately doubled a point that screened us from the +wind and swell, and encamped for the night, in order to wait for our +Indians. We then set our nets, made a yard and mast, and gummed the +canoe. On visiting the nets, we found six white fish, and two pike. +The women gathered cranberries and crowberries in great plenty; and as +the night came on, the weather became more moderate. + + +_Monday, 24._--Our nets this morning produced fourteen white fish, ten +pikes, and a couple of trouts. At five we embarked with a light breeze +from the South, when we hoisted sail, and proceeded slowly, as our +Indians had not come up with us. At eleven we went on shore to prepare +the kettle, and dry the nets; at one we were again on the water. At +four in the afternoon, we perceived a large canoe with a sail, and two +small ones ahead; we soon came up with them, when they proved to be +M. Le Roux and an Indian, with his family, who were on a hunting party, +and had been out twenty-five days. It was his intention to have gone as +far as the river, to leave a letter for me, to inform me of his +situation. He had seen no more Indians where I had left him; but had +made a voyage to Lac la Marte, where he met eighteen small canoes of the +Slave Indians, from whom he obtained five pack of skins, which were +principally those of the marten. There were four Beaver Indians among +them, who had bartered the greatest part of the above mentioned articles +with them, before his arrival. They informed him that their relations +had more skins, but that they were afraid to venture with them, though +they had been informed that people were to come with goods to barter for +them. He gave these people a pair of ice chisels each, and other +articles, and sent them away to conduct their friends to the Slave Lake, +where he was to remain during the succeeding winter. + +We set three nets and in a short time caught twenty fish of different +kinds. In the dusk of the evening, the English chief arrived with a +most pitiful account that he had like to have been drowned in trying to +follow us; and that the other men had also a very narrow escape. Their +canoe, he said, had broken on the swell, at some distance from the +shore, but as it was flat, they had with his assistance been able to +save themselves. He added, that he left them lamenting, lest they +should not overtake me, if I did not wait for them; he also expressed +his apprehensions that they would not be able to repair their canoe. +This evening I gave my men some rum to cheer them after their fatigues. + + +_Tuesday, 25._--We rose this morning at a late hour, when we visited +the nets, which produced but few fish: my people, indeed, partook of the +stores of M. Le Roux. At eleven, the young Indians arrived, and +reproached me for having left them so far behind. They had killed two +swans, and brought me one of them. The wind was Southerly throughout +the day, and too strong for us to depart, as we were at the foot of a +grand traverse. At noon I had an observation, which gave 61. 29. North +latitude. Such was the state of the weather, that we could not visit +our nets. In the afternoon, the sky darkened, and there was lightning, +accompanied with loud claps of thunder. The wind also veered round to +the Westward, and blew a hurricane. + + +_Wednesday, 26._--It rained throughout the night, and till eight in +the morning, without any alteration in the wind. The Indians went on a +hunting excursion, but returned altogether without success in the +evening. One of them was so unfortunate as to miss a moose-deer. In +the afternoon there were heavy showers, with thunder, &c. + + +_Thursday, 27._--We embarked before four, and hoisted sail. At nine +we landed to dress victuals, and wait for M. Le Roux and the Indians. +At eleven, we proceeded with fine and calm weather. At four in the +afternoon, a light breeze sprang up to the Southward, to which we spread +our sail, and at half past five in the afternoon, went on shore for the +night. We then set our nets. The English chief and his people being +quite exhausted with fatigue, he this morning expressed his desire to +remain behind, in order to proceed to the country of the Beaver Indians, +engaging at the same time, that he would return to Athabasca in the +course of the winter. + + +_Friday, 28._--It blew very hard throughout the night, and this +morning, so that we found it a business of some difficulty to get to our +nets; our trouble, however, was repaid by a considerable quantity of +white fish, trout, &c. Towards the afternoon the wind increased. Two +of the men who had been gathering berries saw two moose-deer, with the +tracks of buffaloes and rein-deer. About sunset we heard two shots, and +saw a fire on the opposite side of the bay; we accordingly made a large +fire also, that our position might be determined. When we were all gone +to bed, we heard the report of a gun very near us, and in a very short +time the English chief presented himself drenched with wet, and in much +apparent confusion informed me that the canoe with his companions was +broken to pieces; and that they had lost their fowling pieces, and the +flesh of a rein-deer, which they had killed this morning. They were, he +said, at a very short distance from us; and at the same time requested +that fire might be sent to them, as they were starving with cold. They +and his women, however, soon joined us, and were immediately +accommodated with dry clothes. + + +_Saturday, 29._--I sent the Indians on an hunting party, but they +returned without success; and they expressed their determination not to +follow me any further, from their apprehension of being drowned. + + +_Sunday, 30._--We embarked at one this morning, and took from the nets +a large trout, and twenty white fish. At sunrise a smart aft breeze +sprang up, which wafted us to M. Le Roux's house by two in the +afternoon. It was late before he and our Indians arrived; when, +according to a promise which I had made the latter, I gave them a +plentiful equipment of iron ware, ammunition, tobacco, &c., as a +recompense for the toil and inconvenience they had sustained with me. + +I proposed to the English chief to proceed to the country of the Beaver +Indians, and bring them to dispose of their peltries to M. Le Roux, whom +I intended to leave there the ensuing winter. He had already engaged to +be at Athabasca, in the month of March next, with plenty of furs. + + +_Monday, 31._--I sat up all night to make the necessary arrangements +for the embarkation of this morning, and to prepare instructions for +M. Le Roux. We obtained some provisions here, and parted from him at +five, with fine calm weather. It soon, however, became necessary to +land on a small island, to stop the leakage of the canoe, which had been +occasioned by the shot of an arrow under the water mark, by some Indian +children. While this business was proceeding, we took the opportunity +of dressing some fish. At twelve, the wind sprang up from the +South-East, which was in the teeth of our direction, so that our +progress was greatly impeded. I had an observation, which gave +62. 15. North latitude. We landed at seven in the evening, and pitched +our tents. + + +_Tuesday, 1._--We continued our voyage at five in the morning, the +weather calm and fine, and passed the Isle a la Cache about twelve, but +could not perceive the land, which was seen in our former passage. On +passing the Carreboeuf Islands, at five in the afternoon, we saw land to +the South by West, which we thought was the opposite side of the lake, +stretching away to a great distance. We landed at half past six in the +evening, when there was thunder, and an appearance of change in the +weather. + + +_Wednesday, 2._--It rained and blew hard the latter part of the night. +At half past five the rain subsided, when we made a traverse of twelve +miles, and took in a good deal of water. At twelve it became calm, when +I had an observation, which gave 61. 36. North latitude. At three in +the afternoon, there was a slight breeze from the Westward which soon +increased, when we hoisted sail, and took a traverse of twenty-four +miles, for the point of the old Fort, where we arrived at seven, and +stopped for the night. This traverse shortened our way three leagues; +indeed we did not expect to have cleared the lake in such a short time. + + +_Thursday, 3._--It blew with great violence throughout the night, and +at four in the morning we embarked, when we did not make more than five +miles three hours, without stopping; notwithstanding we were sheltered +from the swell by a long bank. We now entered the small river, where +the wind could have no effect upon us. There were frequent showers in +the course of the day, and we encamped at six in the evening. + + +_Friday, 4._--The morning was dark and cloudy, nevertheless we +embarked at five; but at ten it cleared up. We saw a few fowl, and at +seven in the evening, went on shore for the night. + + +_Saturday, 5._--The weather continued to be cloudy. At five we +proceeded, and at eight it began to rain very hard. In about half an +hour we put to shore, and were detained for the remaining part of the +day. + + +_Sunday, 6._--It rained throughout the night, with a strong North +wind. Numerous flocks of wild fowl passed to the Southward; at six in +the afternoon, the rain, in some measure, subsided, and we embarked, but +it soon returned with renewed violence; we, nevertheless took the +advantage of an aft wind, though it cost us a complete drenching. The +hunters killed seven, geese, and we pitched our tents at half past six +in the evening. + + +_Monday, 7._--We were on the water at five this morning, with a head +wind, accompanied by successive showers. At three in the afternoon, we +ran the canoe on a stump, and it filled with water before she could be +got to land. Two hours were employed in repairing her, and at seven in +the evening, we took our station for the night. + + +_Tuesday, 8._--We renewed our voyage at half past four in a thick mist +which lasted till nine, when it cleared away, and fine weather +succeeded. At three in the afternoon we came to the first +carrying-place, _Portage des Noyes_, and encamped at the upper end of it +to dry our clothes, some of which were almost rotten. + + +_Wednesday, 9._--We embarked at five in the morning, and our canoe was +damaged on the men's shoulders, who were bearing it over the +carrying-place, called _Portage du Chetique_. The guide repaired her, +however, while the other men were employed in carrying the baggage. The +canoe was `gummed at the carrying-place named the _Portage de la +Montagne_. After having passed the carrying-places, we encamped at the +Dog River, at half past four in the afternoon, in a state of great +fatigue. The canoe was again gummed, and paddles were made to replace +those that had been broken in ascending the rapids. A swan was the only +animal we killed throughout the day. + + +_Thursday, 10._--There was rain and violent wind during the night: in +the morning the former subsided and the latter increased. At half past +five we continued our course with a North-Westerly wind. At seven we +hoisted sail: in the forenoon there were frequent showers of rain and +hail, and in the afternoon two showers of snow: the wind was at this +time very strong, and at six in the evening we landed at a lodge of +Knisteneaux, consisting of three men and five women and children. They +were on their return from war, and one of them was very sick: they +separated from the rest of their party in the enemy's country, from +absolute hunger. After this separation, they met with a family of the +hostile tribe, whom they destroyed. They were entirely ignorant of the +fate of their friends, but imagined that they had returned to the Peace +River, or had perished for want of food. I gave medicine to the +sick,[1] and a small portion of ammunition to the healthy; which, +indeed, they very much wanted, as they had entirely lived for the last +six months on the produce of their bows and arrows. They appeared to +have been great sufferers by their expedition. + + +_Friday, 11._--It froze hard during the night, and was very cold +throughout the day, with an appearance of snow. We embarked at half +past four in the morning, and continued our course till six in the +evening, when we landed for the night at our encampment of the third of +June. + + +_Saturday, 12._--The weather was cloudy, and also very cold. At +eight, we embarked with a North-East wind, and entered the Lake of the +Hills. About ten, the wind veered to the West-ward, and was as strong +as we could bear it with the high sail, so that we arrived at Chepewyan +fort by three o'clock in the afternoon, where we found Mr. Macleod, with +five men busily employed in building a new house. Here, then, we +concluded this voyage, which had occupied the considerable space of one +hundred and two days. + + +[1] This man had conceived an idea, that the people with whom he had +been at war, had thrown medicine at him, which had caused his present +complaint, and that he despaired of recovery. The natives are so +superstitious, that this idea alone was sufficient to kill him. Of this +weakness I took advantage; and assured him, that if he would never more +go to war with such poor defenceless people, I would cure him. To this +proposition he readily consented, and on my giving him medicine, which +consisted of Turlington's balsam, mixed in water, I declared that it +would lose its effect, if he was not sincere in the promise that he made +me. In short, he actually recovered, was true to his engagements, and +on all occasions manifested his gratitude to me. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +OCTOBER 10, 1792. + +Having made every necessary preparation, I left Fort Chepewyan, to +proceed up the Peace River, I had resolved to go as far as our most +distant settlement, which would occupy the remaining part of the season, +it being the route by which I proposed to attempt my next discovery, +across the mountains from the source of that river; for whatever +distance I could reach this fall, would be a proportionate advancement +of my voyage. + +In consequence of this design, I left the establishment of Fort +Chepewyan, in charge of Mr. Roderic Mackenzie, accompanied by two canoes +laden with the necessary articles for trade: we accordingly steered West +for one of the branches that communicates with the Peace River, called +the Pine River; at the entrance of which we waited for the other canoes, +in order to take some supplies from them, as I had reason to apprehend +they would not be able to keep up with us. We entered the Peace River +at seven in the morning of the 12th, taking a Westerly course. It is +evident, that all the land between it and the Lake of the Hills, as far +as the Elk River, is formed by the quantity of earth and mud, which is +carried down by the streams of those two great rivers. In this space +there are several lakes. The Lake Clear Water, which is the deepest, +Lake Vassieu, and the Athabasca Lake, which is the largest of the three, +and whose denomination in the Knisteneaux language implies, a flat, low, +swampy country, subject to inundations. The two last lakes are now so +shallow, that from the cause just mentioned, there is every reason to +expect, that in a few years they will have exchanged their character, +and become extensive forests. + +This country is so level, that, at some seasons, it is entirely +overflowed, which accounts for the periodical influx and reflux of the +waters between the Lake of the Hills and the Peace River. + +On the 13th at noon we came to the Peace Point; from which, according to +the report of my interpreter, the river derives its name; it was the +spot where the Knisteneaux and Beaver Indians settled their dispute; the +real name of the river and point being that of the land which was the +object of contention. + +When this country was formerly invaded by the Knisteneaux, they found +the Beaver Indians inhabiting the land about Portage la Loche; and the +adjoining tribe were those whom they called slaves. They drove both +these tribes before them; when the latter proceeded down the river from +the Lake of the Hills, in consequence of which that part of it obtained +the name of the Slave River. The former proceeded up the river; and +when the Knisteneaux made peace with them, this place was settled to be +the boundary. + +We continued our voyage, and I did not find the current so strong in +this river as I had been induced to believe, though this, perhaps, was +not the period to form a correct notion of that circumstance, as well as +of the breadth, the water being very low; so that the stream has not +appeared to me to be in any part that I have seen, more than a quarter +of a mile wide. + +The weather was cold and raw, so as to render our progress unpleasant; +at the same time we did not relax in our expedition, and, at three on +the afternoon of the 17th we arrived at the falls. The river at this +place is about four hundred yards broad, and the fall about twenty feet +high: the first carrying place is eight hundred paces in length, and the +last, which is about a mile onwards, is something more than two-thirds +of that distance. Here we found several fires, from which circumstance +we concluded, that the canoes destined for this quarter, which left the +fort some days before us, could not be far a-head. The weather +continued to be very cold, and the snow that fell during the night was +several inches deep. + +On the morning of the 18th, as soon as we got out of the draught of the +fall, the wind being at North-East, and strong in our favour, we hoisted +sail, which carried us on at a considerable rate against the current, +and passed the Loon River before twelve o'clock; from thence we soon +came along the Grande Isle, at the upper end of which we encamped for +the night. It now froze very hard: indeed, it had so much the +appearance of winter, that I began to entertain some alarm lest we might +be stopped by the ice: we therefore set off at three o'clock in the +morning of the 19th, and about eight we landed at the Old Establishment. + +The passage to this place from Athabasca having been surveyed by +M. Vandrieul, formerly in the Company's service, I did not think it +necessary to give any particular attention to it; I shall, however, just +observe, that the course in general from the Lake of the Hills to the +falls, is Westerly, and as much to the North as the South of it, from +thence it is about West-South-West to this fort. + +The country in general is low from our entrance of the river to the +falls, and with the exception of a few open parts covered with grass, it +is clothed with wood. Where the banks are very low the soil is good, +being composed of the sediment of the river and putrefied leaves and +vegetables. Where they are more elevated, they display a face of +yellowish clay, mixed with small stones. On a line with the falls, and +on either side of the river, there are said to be very extensive plains, +which afford pasture to numerous herds of buffaloes Our people a-head +slept here last night, and, from their carelessness, the fire was +communicated to and burned down, the large house, and was proceeding +fast to the smaller buildings when we arrived to extinguish it. + +We continued our voyage, the course of the river being South-West by +West one mile and a quarter, South by East one mile, South-West by South +three miles, West by South one mile, South-South-West two miles, South +four miles, South-West seven miles and a half, South by West one mile, +North-North-West two miles and a half, South five miles and a quarter, +South-West one mile and a half, North-East by East three miles and a +half, and South-East by East one mile. + +We overtook Mr. Finlay, with his canoes, who was encamped near the fort +of which he was going to take the charge, during the ensuing winter, and +made every necessary preparative for a becoming appearance on our +arrival the following morning. Although I had been since the year 1787, +in the Athabasca country, I had never yet seen a single native of that +part of it which we had now reached. + +At six o'clock in the morning of the 20th, we landed before the house +amidst the rejoicing and firing of the people, who were animated with +the prospect of again indulging themselves in the luxury of rum, of +which they had been deprived since the beginning of May; as it is a +practice throughout the North-West neither to sell or give any rum to +the natives during the summer. There was at this time only one chief +with his people, the other two being hourly expected with their bands; +and on the 21st and 22d they all arrived except the war chief and +fifteen men. As they very soon expressed their desire of the expected +regale, I called them together, to the number of forty-two hunters, or +men capable of bearing arms, to offer some advice, which would be +equally advantageous to them and to us, and I strengthened my admonition +with a nine gallon cask of reduced rum, and a quantity of tobacco. At +the same time I observed, that as I should not often visit them, I had +instanced a greater degree of liberality than they had been accustomed +to. + +The number of people belonging to this establishment amounts to about +three hundred, of which, sixty are hunters. Although they appear from +their language to be of the same stock as the Chepewyans, they differ +from them in appearance, manners, and customs, as they have adopted +those of their former enemies, the Knisteneaux; they speak their +language, as well as cut their hair, paint, and dress like them, and +possess their immoderate fondness for liquor and tobacco. This +description, however, can be applied only to the men, as the women are +less adorned even than those of the Chepewyan tribes. We could not +observe, without some degree of surprize, the contrast between the neat +and decent appearance of the men, and the nastiness of the women. I am +disposed, however, to think, that this circumstance is generally owing +to the extreme submission and abasement of the latter: for I observed, +that one of the chiefs allowed two of his wives more liberty and +familiarity than were accorded to the others, as well as a more becoming +exterior, and their appearance was proportionably pleasing; I shall, +however, take a future opportunity to speak more at large on this +subject. + +There were frequent changes of the weather in the course of the day, and +it froze rather hard in the night. The thickness of the ice in the +morning was a sufficient notice for me to proceed. I accordingly gave +the natives such good counsel as might influence their behaviour, +communicated my directions to Mr. Findlay for his future conduct, and +took my leave under several vollies of musketry, on the morning of the +23d. I had already dispatched my loaded canoes two days before, with +directions to continue their progress without waiting for me. Our +course was South-South-East one mile and an half, South three quarters; +East seven miles and a half, veering gradually to the West four miles +and an half, South-East by South three miles, South-East three miles and +an half, East-South-East to Long Point three miles, South-West one mile +and a quarter, East by North four miles and three quarters, West three +miles and an half, West-South-West one mile, East by South five miles +and a half, South three miles and three quarters, South-East by South +three miles, East-South-East three miles, East-North-East one mile, when +there was a river that flowed in on the right, East two miles and an +half, East-South-East half a mile, South-East by South seven miles and +an half, South two miles, South-South-East three miles and an half; in +the course of which we passed an island South by West, where a rivulet +flowed in on the right, one mile, East one mile and an half, South five +miles, South-East by South four miles and an half, South-West one mile, +South-East by East four miles and an half, West-South-West half a mile, +South-West six miles and three quarters, South-East by South one mile +and an half, South one mile and an half; South-East by South two miles, +South-West three quarters of a mile, South-East by South two miles and +an half, East by South one mile and three quarters, South two miles, +South-East one mile and an half, South-South-East half a mile, East by +South two miles and an half, North-East three miles, South-West by West +short distance to the establishment of last year, East-North-East four +miles, South-South-East one mile and three quarters, South half a mile, +South-East by South three quarters of a mile, North-East by East one +mile, South three miles, South-South-East one mile and three quarters, +South by East four miles and an half, South-West three miles, South by +East two miles, South by West one mile and an half, South-West two +miles, South by West four miles and an half, South-West one mile and an +half, and South by East three miles. Here we arrived at the forks of +the river; the Eastern branch appearing to be not more than half the +size of the Western one. We pursued the latter, in a course South-West +by West six miles, and landed on the first of November at the place +which was designed to be my winter residence: indeed, the weather had +been so cold and disagreeable, that I was more than once apprehensive of +our being stopped by the ice, and, after all, it required the utmost +exertions of which my men were capable to prevent it; so that on their +arrival they were quite exhausted. Nor were their labours at an end, +for there was not a single hut to receive us: it was, however, now in my +power to feed and sustain them in a more comfortable manner. + +We found two men here who had been sent forward last spring, for the +purpose of squaring timber for the erection of a house, and cutting +pallisades, &c., to surround it. With them was the principal chief of +the place, and about seventy men, who had been anxiously waiting for our +arrival, and received us with every mark of satisfaction and regard +which they could express. If we might judge from the quantity of powder +that was wasted on our arrival, they certainly had not been in want of +ammunition, at least during the summer. + +The banks of the river, from the falls, are in general lofty, except at +low woody points, accidentally formed in the manner I have already +mentioned: they also displayed, in all their broken parts, a face of +clay, intermixed with stone; in some places there likewise appeared a +black mould. + +In the summer of 1788, a small spot was cleared at the Old +Establishment, which is situated on a bank thirty feet above the level +of the river, and was sown with turnips, carrots, and parsnips. The +first grew to a large size, and the others thrived very well. An +experiment was also made with potatoes and cabbage, the former of which +were successful; but for want of care the latter failed. The next +winter the person who had undertaken this cultivation, suffered the +potatoes which had been collected for seed, to catch the frost, and none +had been since brought to this place. There is not the least doubt but +the soil would be very productive, if a proper attention was given to +its preparation. In the fall of the year 1787, when I first arrived at +Athabasca, Mr. Pond was settled on the banks of the Elk River, where he +remained for three years, and had formed as fine a kitchen garden as I +ever saw in Canada. + +In addition to the wood which flourished below the fall, these banks +produce the cypress tree, arrow-wood, and the thorn. On either side of +the river, though invisible from it, are extensive plains, which abound +in buffaloes, elks, wolves, foxes, and bears. At a considerable +distance to the Westward, is an immense ridge of high land or mountains, +which take an oblique direction from below the falls, and are inhabited +by great numbers of deer, which are seldom disturbed, but when the +Indians go to hunt the beaver in those parts; and, being tired with the +flesh of the latter, vary their food with that of the former. This +ridge bears the name of the Deer Mountain. Opposite to our present +situation, are beautiful meadows, with various animals grazing on them, +and groves of poplars irregularly scattered over them. + +My tent was no sooner pitched, than I summoned the Indians together, and +gave each of them about four inches of Brazil tobacco, a dram of +spirits, and lighted the pipe. As they had been very troublesome to my +predecessor, I informed them that I had heard of their misconduct, and +was come among them to inquire into the truth of it. I added also that +it would be an established rule with me to treat them with kindness, if +their behaviour should be such as to deserve it; but, at the same time, +that I should be equally severe if they failed in those returns which I +had a right to expect from them. I then presented them with a quantity +of rum, which I recommended to be used with discretion; and added some +tobacco, as a token of peace. They, in return, made me the fairest +promises; and having expressed the pride they felt on beholding me in +their country, took their leave. + +I now proceeded to examine my situation; and it was with great +satisfaction I observed that the two men who had been sent hither some +time before us, to cut and square timber for our future operations, had +employed the intervening period with activity and skill. They had +formed a sufficient quantity of pallisades of eighteen feet long, and +seven inches in diameter, to inclose a square spot of an hundred and +twenty feet; they had also dug a ditch of three feet deep to receive +them; and had prepared timber, planks, &c., for the erection of a house. + +I was, however, so much occupied in settling matters with the Indians, +and equipping them for their winter hunting, that I could not give my +attention to any other object, till the 7th, when I set all hands at +work to construct the fort, build the house, and form store houses. On +the preceding day the river began to run with ice, which we call the +last of the navigation. On the 11th we had a South-West wind, with +snow. On the 16th, the ice stopped in the other fork, which was not +above a league from us, across the intervening neck of land. The water +in this branch continued to flow till the 22d, when it was arrested also +by the frost, so that we had a passage across the river, which would +last to the latter end of the succeeding April. This was a fortunate +circumstance, as we depended for our support upon what the hunters could +provide for us, and they had been prevented by the running of the ice +from crossing the river. They now, however, very shortly procured us as +much fresh meat as we required, though it was for some time a toilsome +business to my people, for as there was not yet a sufficient quantity of +snow to run sledges, they were under the necessity of loading themselves +with the spoils of the chase. + +On the 27th the frost was so severe that the axes of the workmen became +almost as brittle as glass. The weather was very various until the 2d +of December, when my Farenheit's thermometer was injured by an accident, +which rendered it altogether useless. The table on page 353, therefore, +from the 16th of November, to this unfortunate circumstance, is the only +correct account of the weather which I can offer. + +[Transcriber's Note: The table referenced in the preceding paragraph +follows immediately below.] + + +Month|Date|Hours|Below|Above|Wind|Weather||Hour|Below|Above|Wind|Weather||Hour|Below|Above|Wind|Weather|| + and | |A.M. | 0 | 0 | | || | 0 | 0 | | ||P.M.| 0 | | | || +year | | | | | | || | | | | || | | | | || +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- +1792 | | | | | | || | | | | || | | | | || +Nov. |16 |8-1/2| ... | 10 |....| || 12 | 0 | 14 |....| || 6 | .. | 15 |....|Cloudy.|| + |17 |8-1/2| ... | 17 |....|Clear. || 12 | .. | 20 |... |Clear. || 6 | .. | 23 |....|ditto. || + |18 | 9 | ... | 19 |ESE | || 12 | .. | 21 |ESE | || 6 | .. | 14 |ESE |Clear. || + |19 | 8 | ... | 5 |NW | || 12 | .. | 12 |NW | || 6 | .. | 9 |NW |ditto. ||Strong wind + |20 |8-1/2| ... | 4 |... |ditto. || 12 | .. | 14 |....|ditto. || 6 | .. | 19 |....|Cloudy.||At 10 last night 1 below 0 + |21 | 8 | ... | 19 |... | || 12 | .. | 25 |....| || 6 | .. | 23 |....|...... ||River stopped. + |22 | 9 | ... | 27 |... |Cloudy.|| 12 | .. | 29 |....|Cloudy.|| 6 | .. | 28 |....|Cloudy ||Ice drove and water rises. + |23 |8-1/2| ... | 2 |N |Clear. || 12 | .. | 23 |....|Clear. || 6 | .. | 15 |N |...... ||Ice drove again. + |24 | 8 | 3 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | 0 | 0 |NE | || 6 | 1 | .. |NE |Cloudy.|| + |25 | 8 | 14 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | 4 | .. |....| || 6 | 2 | .. |....|Clear. ||Snowed last night 2 inches. + |26 | 9 | 10 | .. |N |ditto. || 12 | .. | 2 |N | || 6 | 0 | 0 |N |ditto. || + |27 | 8 | 2 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | 3 | 2 |....| || 6 | .. | 1 |SW |ditto. || + |28 | 8 | 16 | .. |... |ditto. || 12 | .. | .. |....| || 6 | 7 | .. |S |ditto. ||After dark, overcast. + |29 |7-1/2| ... | 4 |... |Cloudy.|| 12 | .. | 13 |....| || 6 | .. | 7 |....|ditto. ||Ditto, a little wind S. W. + |30 | 9 | ... | 4 |S | || 12 | .. | 13 |S |Cloudy.|| 6 | .. | 16 |S |Cloudy.|| + Dec.| 1 | 9 | ... | 0 |... | || 12 | | 19 |SE | || 5 | .. | 24 |SE |ditto. ||Fell 3 inches snow last night. + | 2 | 9 | ... | 27 |E | || | | | | || 5 | | | | || + + + +In this situation, removed from all those ready aids which add so much +to the comfort, and, indeed is a principal characteristic of civilized +life, I was under the necessity of employing my judgment and experience +in accessory circumstances by no means connected with the habits of my +life, or the enterprise in which I was immediately engaged. I was now +among the people who had no knowledge whatever of remediable application +to those disorders and accidents to which man is liable in every part of +the globe, in the distant wilderness, as in the peopled city. They had +not the least acquaintance with that primitive medicine, which consists +in an experience of the healing virtues of herbs and plants, and is +frequently found among uncivilised and savage nations. This +circumstance now obliged me to be their physician and surgeon, as a +woman with a swelled breast, which had been lacerated with flint stones +for the cure of it, presented herself to my attention, and by +cleanliness, poultices, and healing salve, I succeeded in producing a +cure. One of my people, also, who was at work in the woods, was +attacked with a sudden pain near the first joint of his thumb, which +disabled him from holding an axe. On examining his arm, I was +astonished to find a narrow red stripe, about half an inch wide, from +his thumb to his shoulder; the pain was violent, and accompanied with +chilliness and shivering. This was a case that appeared to be beyond my +skill, but it was necessary to do something towards relieving the mind +of the patient, though I might be unsuccessful in removing his +complaint. I accordingly prepared a kind of volatile liniment of rum +and soap, with which I ordered his arm to be rubbed, but with little or +no effect. He was in a raving state throughout the night, and the red +stripe not only increased, but was also accompanied with the appearance +of several blotches on his body, and pains in his stomach; the propriety +of taking some blood from him now occurred to and I ventured, from +absolute necessity, to perform that operation for the first time, and +with an effect that justified the treatment. The following night +afforded him rest, and in a short time he regained his former health and +activity. + +I was very much surprised on walking in the woods at such an inclement +period of the year, to be saluted with the singing of birds, while they +seemed by their vivacity to be actuated by the invigorating power of a +more genial season. Of these birds the male was something less than the +robin; part of his body is of a delicate fawn colour, and his neck, +breast, and belly, of a deep scarlet; the wings are black, edged with +fawn colour, and two white stripes running across them; the tail is +variegated, and the head crowned with a tuft. The female is smaller +than the male, and of a fawn colour throughout, except on the neck, +which is enlivened by an hue of glossy yellow. I have no doubt but they +are constant inhabitants of this climate, as well as some other small +birds which we saw, of a grey colour. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyages from Montreal Through the +Continent of North America to the Frozen and Pacific Oceans in 1789 and 1793, by Alexander Mackenzie + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGES FROM MONTREAL, VOL I *** + +***** This file should be named 35658.txt or 35658.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/5/6/5/35658/ + +Produced by Owen O'Donovan + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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