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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hand-Book of Practical Cookery for Ladies
+and Professional Cooks, by Pierre Blot
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Hand-Book of Practical Cookery for Ladies and Professional Cooks
+
+Author: Pierre Blot
+
+Release Date: March 21, 2011 [EBook #35646]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKERY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Marcia Brooks, Ross Cooling and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Canada Team at
+http://www.pgdpcanada.net (This file was produced from
+images generously made available by The Internet
+Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  HAND-BOOK
+
+  OF
+
+  PRACTICAL COOKERY,
+
+  FOR
+
+  LADIES AND PROFESSIONAL COOKS.
+
+  CONTAINING
+
+  _THE WHOLE SCIENCE AND ART OF PREPARING HUMAN FOOD._
+
+
+  BY
+
+  PIERRE BLOT,
+
+  PROFESSOR OF GASTRONOMY, AND FOUNDER OF THE NEW YORK COOKING ACADEMY.
+
+
+  "If ye be willing and obedient, ye shall eat the good of the land."
+
+
+  NEW YORK:
+  D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,
+  1, 3, and 5 BOND STREET.
+  1884.
+
+
+
+
+  Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by
+
+  D. APPLETON & CO.,
+
+  In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
+  Southern District of New York.
+
+
+
+
+  PREFACE.
+
+Food is the most important of our wants; we cannot exist without it. The
+man who does not use his brain to select and prepare his food, is not
+above the brutes that take it in its raw state. It is to the physique
+what education is to the mind, coarse or refined. Good and well-prepared
+food beautifies the physique the same as a good and well-directed
+education beautifies the mind. A cook-book is like a book on chemistry,
+it cannot be used to any advantage if theory is not blended with
+practice. It must also be written according to the natural products and
+climate of the country in which it is to be used, and with a perfect
+knowledge of the properties of the different articles of food and
+condiments.
+
+Like many other books, it is not the size that makes it practical; we
+could have made this one twice as large as it is, without having added a
+single receipt to it, by only having given separate ones for pieces of
+meat, birds, fishes, etc., that are of the same kind and prepared
+alike. All cook-books written by mere compilers, besides giving the same
+receipt several times, recommend the most absurd mixtures as being the
+best and of the "latest French style."
+
+Although cookery has made more progress within two or three years, in
+this country as well as in Europe, than it had since 1830, and although
+all our receipts are complete, practical, wholesome, and in accordance
+with progress, still they are simple. Our aim has been to enable every
+housekeeper and professional cook, no matter how inexperienced they may
+be, to prepare any kind of food in the best and most wholesome way, with
+economy, celerity, and taste; and also to serve a dinner in as orderly a
+manner as any steward can do.
+
+We did not intend to make a book, such as that of CARÈME, which cannot
+be used at all except by cooks of very wealthy families, and with which
+one cannot make a dinner costing less than twenty dollars a head. Such a
+book is to housekeepers or plain cooks what a Latin dictionary is to a
+person of merely elementary education.
+
+If we give so many different ways of preparing the same article of food,
+it is not with a view to complicate cookery, but people's taste is in
+food as in dress, differing not only in the selection of colors, but
+also in shape; therefore, by our variety of dishes and our different
+styles of decorating them; by the ease that they can be prepared in the
+cheapest as well as in the most costly way, we think we have met all
+wants and all tastes. The wealthy, as well as those in limited
+circumstances, can use our receipts with the same advantage.
+
+Our division of cookery and the system of arranging _bills of fare_,
+contained in these pages, solve that great and perplexing question,
+especially for ladies, how to arrange a bill of fare for every season,
+to suit any number of guests, at a greater or less expense, as they may
+desire. Every one knows that money alone cannot make good dishes;
+however good the raw materials may be, they require proper preparations
+before being palatable and wholesome.
+
+
+  TO HOUSEKEEPERS AND COOKS.
+
+A cook-book cannot be used like a dictionary; a receipt is like a rule
+of grammar: to comprehend it thoroughly, it is indispensable to
+understand others. The author, therefore, earnestly recommends to his
+readers to begin by perusing carefully the directions, etc., at the
+beginning of the book, and also the explanations given on and heading
+the different articles of food, before attempting the preparation of a
+dish for the first time. They will thus soon be able to prepare any dish
+by merely reading the receipt. If all the explanations necessary were
+given at every receipt, this work would have filled more than ten
+volumes like the present.
+
+We are aware that the study of cookery is as uninviting and dry as the
+study of grammar at first; so is the study of every science and even
+art; but it becomes comparatively easy and interesting after a while.
+Mere flourish in a receipt would have the same effect as in a rule of
+grammar.
+
+
+  TO COOKS.
+
+We think the following friendly recommendations will not be out of place
+here. They are in the interest of both the housekeeper and the cook:
+
+    Make use of every thing good.
+
+    Waste nothing, however little it may be.
+
+    Have no prejudices.
+
+    Be careful, clean, and punctual.
+
+    Always bear in mind that routine is the greatest enemy of
+    progress, and that you have agreed to faithfully perform your
+    daily duties for a certain consideration.
+
+        PIERRE BLOT.
+
+    New York, _August_, 1867.
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS.
+
+                                     PAGE
+  COOKING,                              9
+  DIRECTIONS, EXPLANATIONS, ETC.,      16
+  DIVERS RECEIPTS,                     44
+  POTAGES OR SOUPS,                    61
+  SAUCES,                              97
+  FARCES AND GARNITURES,              113
+  FISH,                               125
+  BEEF,                               162
+  MUTTON,                             184
+  VEAL,                               202
+  PORK,                               226
+  POULTRY,                            237
+  GAME,                               276
+  VEGETABLES,                         305
+  EGGS, MACARONI, AND RICE,           356
+  SWEET DISHES,                       376
+  PASTRY,                             409
+  BILLS OF FARE,                      459
+  INDEX,                              465
+
+
+
+
+  COOKING.
+
+
+The science and art of cooking may be divided into ten principal parts;
+the rest is all fancy. These ten parts are: Baking, Boiling, Broiling,
+Frying, Mixing, Roasting, Sautéing, Seasoning, Simmering, and Stewing.
+
+Tasting is an adjunct to all.
+
+_Baking._--In baking, see that the furnace or oven be properly heated;
+some dishes require more heat than others. Look at the object in process
+of baking from time to time, and especially at the beginning, turn it
+round if necessary, in case it be heated more on one side than on the
+other, to prevent burning.
+
+In baking meat and fish, besides keeping the bottom of the pan covered
+with broth or water, place a piece of buttered paper over the object in
+the pan; it not only prevents it from burning, but acts as a
+self-basting operation, and keeps the top moist and juicy.
+
+If the top of cakes bake faster than the rest, place a piece of paper on
+it.
+
+In most of our receipts, we give the degree of heat necessary to bake
+the different objects; it will, no doubt, be found valuable information.
+
+_Boiling._--This is the most abused branch in cooking; we know that many
+good-meaning housewives and professional cooks boil things that ought
+to be prepared otherwise, with a view to economy; but a great many do it
+through laziness. Boiling requires as much care as any other branch, but
+they do not think so, and therefore indulge in it.
+
+Another abuse is to boil fast instead of slowly. Set a small ocean of
+water on a brisk fire and boil something in it as fast as you can, you
+make much steam but do not cook faster; the degree of heat being the
+same as if you were boiling slowly.
+
+If the object you boil, and especially boil fast, contains any flavor,
+you evaporate it, and cannot bring it back.
+
+Many things are spoiled or partly destroyed by boiling, such as meat,
+coffee, etc.
+
+Water that has been boiled is inferior for cooking purposes, its gases
+and alkali being evaporated.
+
+_Broiling._--Whatever you broil, grease the bars of the gridiron first.
+
+Broiling and roasting is the same thing; the object in process of
+cooking by either must be exposed to the heat on one side, and the other
+side to the air.
+
+Bear in mind that no one can broil or roast in an oven, whatever be its
+construction, its process of heating, or its kind of heat. An object
+cooked in an oven is baked.
+
+It is better to broil before than over the fire. In broiling before the
+fire, all the juice can be saved.
+
+In broiling by gas, there is a great advantage. The meat is placed under
+the heat, and as the heat draws the juice of the meat, the consequence
+is, that the juice being attracted upward, it is retained in the meat.
+
+A gas broiler is a square, flat drum, perforated on one side and placed
+over a frame.
+
+Broiling on live coals or on cinders without a gridiron is certainly not
+better than with one, as believed by many; on the contrary, besides not
+being very clean, it burns or chars part of the meat.
+
+That belief comes from the fact that when they partook of meat prepared
+that way, it was with a sauce that generally accompanies hunters,
+fishermen, etc.,--_hunger_--the most savory of all savory sauces.
+
+_Frying._--That part of cooking is not as difficult as it is generally
+believed, and properly fried objects are good and do not taste greasy.
+
+To fry requires care, and nothing fried will taste greasy if it has been
+dropped in fat properly heated and in enough of it to immerse the
+object.
+
+When an object tastes greasy, it is not because it has been fried in
+grease, but because there was not enough of it, or because it was not
+properly heated; for, if heated enough it closes the pores of the object
+and carbonizes the exterior, so that it cannot absorb any.
+
+_Directions for Frying._--Prepare what you intend to fry according to
+the directions given in the different receipts.
+
+Have fat, lard, or oil in a pan, enough to immerse the object or objects
+intended to be fried.
+
+When the fat is hot enough (see below), place the object in a kind of
+wire basket made for that purpose, which drop in the fat and take off
+when the object is fried. It is handy, and there is no danger of
+breaking the object in taking it off.
+
+There are objects that require to be stirred or turned over while
+frying.
+
+Every time you fry any thing, take the fat from the fire, let it stand
+in a cool place for about five minutes, then turn it gently into a
+stone jar or pot through a strainer; let cool and put away. In turning
+the fat, lard, or oil into the jar, pour so that the dregs will be kept
+in the pan.
+
+To ascertain with accuracy when the fat, lard, or oil is hot enough to
+lay the things in the pan, dip a fork in cold water, the prongs only; so
+as to retain but one or two drops of water, which drops you let fall in
+the fat, and if it crackles, it is hot enough.
+
+Another way is, when jets of smoke come out of the fat.
+
+There are objects that require more heat than others, some that are more
+sightly when brown, and others when of a pale-yellow hue.
+
+If the object is desired brown, leave the pan on a brisk fire while it
+is frying; if otherwise, remove it to a slow or less brisk fire.
+
+Fat is not like water, which, no matter how fast you boil it, you cannot
+augment the degree of heat, while you can that of fat. If water, by
+boiling it fast, could be heated as much as fat, it would be used to fry
+in its stead, being cheaper.
+
+_Mixing._--In mixing, pay due attention to the quantities we give in the
+receipts; but as everybody has not the same taste, it is very easy to
+augment or diminish the quantity of salt, pepper, sugar, butter, etc.,
+so as to suit one's own taste.
+
+When the quantity is left to the judgment or taste of the cook, that is,
+when the expression _about so much_ is made use of, it is not necessary
+then to have the exact quantity; a little more or a little less cannot
+spoil or partly destroy the dish.
+
+_Roasting._--When an object is placed on the spit according to
+directions, remember that it cannot be basted too often.
+
+The time necessary for roasting a piece of meat or any thing else,
+depends as much upon the fire as upon the nature of the meat. Meat
+especially requires to be placed very near the fire at first, and then
+put back by degrees.
+
+There is nearly as much difference between roasted and baked meat as
+there is between broiled and fried meat.
+
+It is generally admitted here, that English roast-beef is so superior to
+American roast-beef that it cannot be compared to it. It is not in the
+quality of the meat that the difference lies, but in the process of
+cooking.
+
+Meat cannot be roasted in an oven, be it in an ordinary or in a patented
+one.
+
+That peculiar flavor in roasted meat is produced by the air coming
+constantly in contact with the heated meat while revolving on the spit.
+
+Cold roasted meat, when desired to be served warm, is enveloped in
+buttered paper and placed on the spit just long enough to warm it.
+
+_Sautéing._--There is no word, that we know, in the English language,
+corresponding to the French word _sauté_. It differs from frying in
+this: that to fry any object requires fat enough to immerse that object;
+while to _sauté_ it, requires just enough to prevent it from scorching.
+
+Vegetables, omelets, etc., are _sautéd_, and not fried.
+
+Meat or fish cooked in a frying-pan with a little butter or fat, is
+_sautéd_, and not fried; but the term fried is most generally used, the
+other being only known to practitioners.
+
+To _sauté_ requires a brisk fire; the quicker an object is cooked by
+_sautéing_ the better.
+
+_Seasoning._--This is the most difficult part in the science of cooking.
+To season is not difficult, but to season properly is quite another
+thing.
+
+It is not only necessary to know well how to stew or roast a peace of
+meat or any thing else, but to know how to season it, to be able to
+judge what quantity and what kind of spices can be used to season such
+or such a dish, to what extent all the spices used agree together, and
+what taste and flavor they will give to the object with which they are
+cooked; for, if not properly used, they may just as likely destroy the
+taste and flavor of the object as improve it.
+
+Some dishes require high and much seasoning, others just the contrary.
+With a good fire and a good spit, it is not necessary to be a thorough
+cook to roast a piece well, but the cook is indispensable to mix the
+gravy or sauce with the proper seasonings.
+
+_Simmering._--Simmering differs from boiling only in the amount of heat
+allowed under the boiler, kettle, or pan. To simmer, is to boil as
+gently and slowly as possible.
+
+_Stewing._--To stew properly it is necessary to have a moderate fire and
+as even as possible. A brisk fire would cause much steam to evaporate,
+which steam is the flavor of the object stewed.
+
+_Tasting._--This is the most difficult, and at the same time the most
+delicate, part of seasoning; it is by tasting that we ascertain if we
+have seasoned properly.
+
+In this only two of the senses are engaged, and one of those much more
+than the other.
+
+A person may have good feeling, hearing, and sight, and for all that
+would not be fit for preparing the simplest dish; the senses of smelling
+and tasting are the ones most required, and without which no one can
+cook properly.
+
+For these reasons we will take the liberty to recommend to housekeepers,
+when they have new cooks, to instruct them on their taste, and always
+let them know when they have seasoned too much or too little. To the
+cooks we will say, do not season according to your own taste, if the
+persons for whom you cook do not like it.
+
+If the housekeeper would give his or her candid and frank opinion of the
+dishes to the cook, and if the latter be not stubborn, the best results
+might be obtained and both would be benefited by it. That ought to be
+done every day while making the bill of fare.
+
+To taste a sauce, as well as to know if a thing is good to eat, we
+cannot trust either our eyes, fingers, or ears; we then have recourse,
+first to our smelling, and then to our tasting: so do most animals.
+
+We always commence by smelling, and when that sense is satisfied as far
+as it is concerned, we then apply our tasting qualities; and if that
+last one is, in its turn, satisfied also, we proceed, that is, we
+masticate, if mastication is necessary, and then swallow.
+
+
+
+
+  DIRECTIONS, EXPLANATIONS, ETC.
+
+
+  ANISE.
+
+Anise comes from Egypt, and is used as a spice.
+
+
+  APRICOT.
+
+This is a native of Armenia. It is served like plums and peaches; in
+salad, compote, etc.
+
+
+  BACON.
+
+Never use smoked bacon or ham, except when especially directed. The
+smoky taste would spoil the dish.
+
+
+  BAIN-MARIE.
+
+A bain-marie is a large vessel of hot or boiling water, in which
+saucepans, kettles, moulds, etc., are placed to prepare or warm food. It
+is also used to keep any kind of food warm, when something is ready to
+serve, and the time has not come; the utensil containing it is placed in
+hot water, and it not only keeps it warm, but there is almost no
+evaporation while in it. It does not boil away either.
+
+There are things that are much more delicate when prepared or warmed in
+hot water.
+
+One utensil made for that purpose, and of brass, with compartments, is
+more handy, but a large saucepan may be used in its stead.
+
+When any thing is in the bain-marie, the water should not be allowed to
+boil fast enough either to upset the pans or get into them.
+
+
+  BAKE-PANS.
+
+A bake-pan for baking meat, fish, or any other object that requires
+liquor of any kind, must have borders in order to hold that liquor; but
+a bake-pan for cakes or any other object that does not require any
+liquor, or that does not turn liquid in baking, is better without
+borders--that is, a simple piece of sheet iron of a size to go easily in
+the oven.
+
+
+  BAY-LEAF.
+
+This is known also under its French name laurier.
+
+It is used as a spice; it is exceedingly cheap and is excellent to
+flavor sauces, gravies, etc.
+
+It comes especially from Italy, where it is used to pack figs, oil, and
+different fruits.
+
+
+  BEETS.
+
+The red beet is much used to decorate different dishes.
+
+It is boiled, then pickled, cut in fancy shapes, either with a knife or
+with paste-cutters, and tastefully placed on or around the object it is
+used to decorate.
+
+It is served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, pickled, and cut in slices.
+
+_To boil._--Set it on a good fire in a pan, covered with cold water, and
+boil gently till done.
+
+The beet must not be touched at all with any thing rough, for if the
+skin or root is cut or broken, all the color goes away in boiling, it is
+not fit to decorate, and loses much of its quality.
+
+When you buy beets, see that they are not bruised, and that the root is
+not broken.
+
+
+  BRAISING.
+
+Braising, in cookery, means to cook any thing with fire under and upon
+the pan, kettle, or other utensil.
+
+A good oven is by far more easy, and answers perfectly the purpose. An
+oven not only warms the under and upper parts of the utensil, but all
+around it also.
+
+
+  BUNCH OF SEASONINGS.
+
+It is composed of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and cloves, and sometimes a
+clove of garlic is added. Place the sprigs of parsley in the left hand,
+rather spread, lay the others on and in the middle of the parsley, and
+envelop them in it as well as possible, then tie the whole with twine.
+
+As all these seasonings are never served except when chopped, they are
+more easily taken out than if they were not tied together.
+
+
+  BUTTERED PAPER.
+
+Dip in lukewarm butter a piece of white paper of the size you want, and
+envelop the piece to broil or roast with it. Tie the paper around with
+twine or coarse thread.
+
+
+  OILED PAPER.
+
+The only difference between oiled and buttered paper is, that it is
+dipped in sweet or olive oil instead of butter.
+
+
+  CATSUP.
+
+Beware of what is sold under the name of catsups and pickles; many cases
+of dyspepsia, debility, and consumption come from using such stuff.
+
+
+  CAVIARE.
+
+It is made with the roes, hard and soft, of the sterlet. It is imported
+from Russia, and is served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, with slices of lemon
+and toast.
+
+
+  CERVELAS, SAUCISSONS, ETC.
+
+Cervelas, saucissons, as well as smoked sausages, are pork-butchers'
+preparations, cut slantwise in very thin slices, and served as
+_hors-d'oeuvre_, with parsley in the middle of the dish.
+
+
+  CHEESE.
+
+Cheese is the first plate of _dessert_ to be partaken of. "A dinner
+without cheese is like a handsome lady with but one
+eye."--_Brillat-Savarin_.
+
+"Cheese takes away all the taste that might be left from preceding
+dishes, and by that means prepares the palate for the appreciation of
+the good things, the delicate flavors of the dessert and wines."
+
+
+  COCHINEAL.
+
+Cochineal, or carmine. Buy the cochineal in powder, prepared for cooking
+purposes, mix some (say the size of half a split pea) with a few drops
+of cold water and mix that again with what you wish to color. The
+quantity of cochineal is according to the quantity of mixture and also
+according to how deep the color is desired.
+
+
+  CHERVIL.
+
+This comes from Italy, and is used in salad and as a spice.
+
+
+  COLANDER.
+
+Besides the ordinary colander, it is necessary to have a fine one. We
+mean, by a fine colander, one with holes half the size of the ordinary
+ones, that is, just between the colander and strainer. A colander
+should not have holes on the sides; it is handier and more clean with
+holes at the bottom only.
+
+
+  CURRY.
+
+We think that curry is very good and necessary on the borders of the
+Ganges River, and for that very reason we think also that it ought to be
+eschewed on the borders of the Hudson, Delaware, Ohio, and thereabouts.
+
+We cannot describe curry better than by giving here the answer
+(_verbatim et literatim_) of a gentleman who has lived a few years in
+Java, to a question on the properties and qualities of curry. He said
+that he thought it good and even necessary to use some there on account
+of the climate, but every time he had eaten it he thought he was
+swallowing boiling alcohol or live coals.
+
+
+  DINING-ROOM.
+
+It must be well ventilated and lighted. The best degree of temperature
+is about 66 degrees Fahr.
+
+
+  DISH.
+
+A dish ought to be charming to the eye, flattering to the smell, and
+delicious to the taste.
+
+
+  DRAINING.
+
+To drain, is to put in a colander any thing that has been soaked,
+washed, or boiled, etc., in water or any other liquid, in order to dry
+it, or at least to let drop from it the water or other liquid that may
+be in it.
+
+Salads of greens, as a general thing, are drained after being washed,
+before putting them in the salad-dish; they must be drained as dry as
+possible, but without pressing on them, as it would wilt the leaves, and
+give the salad an unsightly appearance.
+
+
+  DUSTING.
+
+A pan, after being buttered or greased, is dusted with flour, sugar, or
+even bread-crumbs, to prevent the mixture that is put in it from
+sticking. Sugar, etc., may also be sprinkled over dishes with a dredger.
+
+
+  DRINKING.
+
+When weary, or cold, or warm, or exhausted, we drink in preference to
+eating, because we feel the effect instantaneously; while after eating
+even the most substantial food, we do not feel the effect for some time.
+
+When exhausted and when immediate relief is necessary, the best drinks
+are broth, chocolate, milk, or water sweetened with sugar. It is more
+than a mistake to drink wines or liquors at such a time; it is really
+committing slow suicide.
+
+When only thirsty, without exhaustion, we ought to drink cold water with
+a teaspoon. When thirsty and heated, the first thing to do is to dip the
+hands in cold water deep enough just to cover the wrists; then dip a
+towel in the water, lay it on the forehead, and then drink cold water
+with a teaspoon.
+
+A few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice may be added to the water. If
+exceedingly hot, keep your hands in cold water and the towel on your
+forehead at least one minute before drinking.
+
+
+  HOT WEATHER.
+
+A remark or two on eating and drinking in hot weather are always in
+season. Green vegetables, properly cooked, are certainly healthful in
+warm weather; but it is a mistake to think that meat should be excluded
+from summer diet. The hotter the weather, the more the system wastes,
+and therefore the more we must supply.
+
+In order to keep the body in a healthful condition, meat ought to be
+eaten at least once a day in summer-time. It would be well to vary this
+programme by taking one meal of fish on every other day.
+
+Fat should be disused as much as possible. A very little good butter
+with your fresh radishes at breakfast is as much fat as is necessary.
+
+
+  COLD WEATHER.
+
+Fat meat is good in winter and is relished; so are dry vegetables and
+saccharine substances.
+
+
+  FOOD.
+
+Nature has provided man with a mind, in order that he should study what
+kind of food suits his constitution; he who does not do it, is not above
+the lower animals.
+
+"Good things have been made by the Creator for good people, flowers have
+certainly not been made for brutes, either quadruped or
+biped."--_Jefferson._
+
+"It is from good things that, in a human point of view, we derive the
+strength necessary to our limbs, let us partake of the same and be
+thankful."--_Rev._----_Chadband._
+
+Have your food selected and prepared according to constitution,
+occupation, climate, age, and sex.
+
+Waste in females is greater than in males.
+
+Animals, generally, are very careful in selecting their food.
+
+A temporary bloatedness may be obtained, especially with the young, by
+eating much farinaceous food, such as pancakes, etc., but it does not
+last, and is sure to bring on disease or sickness, or both.
+
+Man is omnivorous, and must be fed accordingly.
+
+Extreme leanness comes from want of proper food, either in youth or old
+age.
+
+It is not the amount that is eaten which nourishes, but the amount that
+is digested; an excess of food is as bad as a lack of it.
+
+Good and well-baked bread is nutritious and healthful, while unbaked
+bread is heavy and difficult of digestion.
+
+Take at least half an hour's rest after a hearty meal, for mind and
+stomach cannot work at the same time.
+
+Never eat when angry, or tired, or when heated; but be as cool and as
+gay as possible, for food being exposed to a heat of about 100 degrees
+Fahr, in the stomach, would ferment instead of digesting.
+
+Take a hearty but by no means heavy dinner.
+
+Eat slowly, at regular hours, and masticate well, but do not bolt your
+food, or eat any thing that does not taste good.
+
+Drink slowly, moderately, and always taste before swallowing.
+
+Vary your food as much as possible.
+
+Always have at least one dish of vegetables for dinner, besides meat,
+and also ripe fruit.
+
+See that every thing you eat or drink is of a good quality, wholesome
+and properly prepared.
+
+
+  ECONOMY.
+
+There is not a word so much misused in cooking as the word economy.
+
+Prejudice comes for a large share in the use of it.
+
+How many things are thrown away, or wasted by mere prejudice or
+ignorance!
+
+It is often from economy that a woman washes meat, because some part of
+it does not look clean. Instead of washing it, do not buy it; or, if
+bought, cut off a thin slice and throw it away: it is more economical
+than washing the whole piece, which you partly destroy by the process.
+
+It is with a view to economy, that an old, bad custom prevails of
+boiling coffee. What an economy of sending the best part of the coffee
+(the aroma) to the attic, and the rest to the dining-room. A bad drink
+can be made cheaper with many things than with coffee.
+
+Tea is also boiled with an eye to economy.
+
+
+  EGG-BEATER.
+
+We have tried five different kinds in Boston, before a large audience
+and on the demand of an inventor of one, but none could beat eggs as
+well as a common hand-beater. The whites of the eggs could not be raised
+with any of the others much more than half as much as with the common
+one; and besides, could not be beaten stiff.
+
+Many persons do not succeed in making cakes of different preparations in
+which whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth are used, because the eggs
+are not properly beaten.
+
+Any tinsmith can make an egg-beater. It is generally made with tin-wire,
+but may be made with brass-wire.
+
+With the cut below, as a model, it can be easily made.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The handle _a_ is of tin, into which the tin wires _b_ are fastened and
+soldered.
+
+
+  ERRORS IN COOKING.
+
+Ignorance produces abuse or error, or both. Blissful ignorance may be a
+fine thing in some cases, but either in preparing or partaking of food,
+it is certainly more than an abuse, it is a dangerous error.
+
+It is by ignorance or disease that man abuses wine or any other liquor.
+
+It is by ignorance or prejudice that many eschew the best and most
+healthful of condiments, such as garlics, onions, etc. They dislike them
+on account of their pungent taste when raw, not knowing that when cooked
+it is all evaporated. Their pungent taste comes from the volatile oil
+they contain, and which evaporates in cooking; it cannot be retained,
+but their sugar is retained, and gives such a good flavor to gravies and
+sauces.
+
+
+  FENNEL.
+
+This is said to be a native of the Canary Islands; it has a very strong
+taste, and is used as a spice, especially in blood pudding. The Romans
+used a great deal of it.
+
+
+  FIG.
+
+The fig-tree comes from Mesopotamia. Figs are generally served as
+_hors-d'oeuvre_, or used in puddings, etc.
+
+
+  FINES HERBES.
+
+Parsley and cives chopped fine, and used for omelets, or with cold meat,
+sauces, etc., are called thus.
+
+
+  FLOUR.
+
+In cooking, new flour is not as good as old; it does not thicken as well
+and as fast.
+
+
+  FOIES GRAS.
+
+_Foies_, or _pâtés de foies gras_ are made with geese-livers, fresh fat
+pork, truffles, ham, _fines herbes_, and spices.
+
+They are always served cold as a _relevé_ or _entrée_, but most
+generally they are used for lunch or supper.
+
+
+  FRUIT-CORER.
+
+There are many sizes in the set, to core from a pineapple to a cherry.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+  GALANTINE.
+
+The word galantine means a _boned bird_, or a boned shoulder of veal.
+
+
+  GLAZING.
+
+Glazing is generally done by means of a brush or with feathers. A beaten
+egg, or syrup, or jelly, or egg and sugar, etc., are used to glaze
+cakes, etc. It is done by dipping the brush into the egg or jelly, and
+by spreading it on the cake or other object before baking or before
+serving, as directed in the different receipts. It is also done by
+sifting powdered sugar on cakes which are put back in the oven for a
+short time--that is, the time necessary to melt the sugar.
+
+
+  INDIGESTION.
+
+A cup of tea and camomile, half of each, with a few drops of
+orange-flower water, and the whole well sweetened and taken warm, is
+very good after having eaten something difficult to digest.
+
+
+  ITALIAN PASTES.
+
+Macaroni, vermicelli, and the like dry pastes, are called Italian
+pastes, whatever the shape--round, oval, or star-like.
+
+
+  ISINGLASS.
+
+It is sometimes used instead of gelatine to make jellies.
+
+
+  JELLY-BAG.
+
+Make a conical bag of good white flannel, about twenty inches long,
+fifteen inches broad at one end when spread on a flat surface, or about
+thirty inches in circumference, the other end being the point. Sew to it
+four pieces of white tape at the large end, and at equal distances, so
+that two sticks may be run into them. The sticks are placed on chairs or
+something else, in order to have the point of the bag about one foot
+from the floor. It is then ready to pass the jellies through it.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+  KITCHEN UTENSILS.
+
+Gastronomists use, in preference to any thing else, crockery or earthen
+pans; or, for want of these, block-tin pans.
+
+Copper is, in the end, the cheapest of all; but American cooks do not
+like them because they require too much care and must be examined every
+day; to prevent any accident, it is necessary to keep the inside
+properly lined.
+
+Many indispositions are caused by food prepared in copper not properly
+lined; even food allowed to cool in a well-lined pan would be dangerous.
+
+Pans lined with porcelain are excellent, but the trouble with them is,
+that they crack, and after that cannot be cleaned; something will
+always remain between the lining and the iron, and spoil every thing
+cooked in them.
+
+The tin-lined are preferable, on account of being easily cleaned by
+means of a small birch-broom, washing-soda, and boiling water.
+
+
+  LAIT DE POULE.
+
+Mix well in a tumbler a yolk of egg and a teaspoonful of sugar; then add
+a few drops of orange-flower water (_eau de fleur d'oranger_); pour
+boiling water on the whole, little by little, stirring the while, and
+drink warm.
+
+The quantity of water is according to taste.
+
+A gill of water to a yolk of egg makes it thick enough.
+
+It makes an excellent drink, to be taken just before retiring, for
+persons with cough.
+
+
+  LARD.
+
+Never buy lard ready made if you can help it, but take hog's fat, the
+part enveloping the kidneys, or leaf lard, and chop it fine, put it in a
+cast-iron or crockery kettle with a bay-leaf and a stalk of thyme to
+every two pounds of fat; set on a moderate fire, and as soon as it
+begins to melt, take the melted part out with a ladle, and put it in a
+stone jar or pot; be careful not to take any pieces of fat not yet
+melted. Continue that process till it is all melted.
+
+The dry or hard part that remains at the bottom of the kettle when done
+is no good.
+
+Lard made thus is as white as snow, and may be kept a long time.
+
+When there is water in lard, it flies all over the fire; in that case,
+boil it a few minutes with a cover on the pan, and then use.
+
+
+  FAT FOR FRYING.
+
+Take beef suet, the part around the kidneys, or any kind of fat, raw or
+cooked; remove as much as possible fibres, nerves, thin skin, or bones;
+chop it fine, put it in a cast-iron or crockery kettle; add to it the
+fat you may have skimmed from the top of broth, sauces or, gravies. Set
+the pan on a moderate fire; boil gently for about fifteen minutes, skim
+it well during the process; take from the fire, let it stand about five
+minutes, and then strain.
+
+Put it in a stone jar or pot, and keep it in a dry and cool place. Cover
+the jar when perfectly cold.
+
+It is as good as lard and more handy; it does not fly over the pan like
+lard.
+
+A careful cook seldom buys fat; generally there is enough coming from
+skimming of broth, sauces, and gravies, for every purpose.
+
+
+  TO CLARIFY FAT.
+
+Set the fat on a moderate fire in a pan, and as soon as it commences to
+boil, place a slice of bread dried in the oven in it, boil gently for
+about half an hour; take from the fire, let it settle for a few minutes;
+remove the bread, turn gently into a jar or pot, leaving the dregs in
+the pan.
+
+_Chicken_, _Turkey_, _and Goose Fat._--The fat of the above birds is
+never used to fry, but to _sauté_ instead of butter. To make omelets it
+is excellent; an omelet is whiter and more sightly made with chicken-fat
+than when made with butter. It is clarified as directed above.
+
+
+  GAME-FAT.
+
+Game-fat can be used instead of other fat and also instead of butter, to
+_sauté_, or what is generally called partly fry, game; it may also be
+used, instead of butter to bake game.
+
+It must be clarified longer than other fat, but in the same way.
+
+The boiling of fat with water, as indicated in some cook-books, is only
+a fancy and extra work, it has no effect whatever on the fat. It is the
+same by keeping it for hours in a _bain-marie_; it does not change it in
+the least.
+
+
+  BATTER FOR FRYING.
+
+_For frying Vegetables._--Put three tablespoonfuls of flour in a bowl
+with two yolks of eggs, and cold water enough to make a kind of thin
+paste, then add salt and half a teaspoonful of sweet oil; mix well. Beat
+the two whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and mix them with the rest.
+Put the batter away in a cold place for at least two hours, and use.
+
+It must not be put away longer than for half a day.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as above in every particular, except that you use
+milk instead of water.
+
+_For frying Fish._--Make it exactly as the above, except that you do not
+use any oil.
+
+_For frying Fritters._--Mix well together in a bowl three tablespoonfuls
+of flour with two yolks of eggs and cold water enough to make a thin
+paste; add a pinch of sugar, rum or brandy, or any other liquor,
+according to taste, from one to three or four tablespoonfuls, mix well
+again, and put away for at least two or three hours, but not longer than
+twelve hours.
+
+_Eggs and Crumbs for frying._--The eggs are beaten as for omelets, with
+a little salt. The objects to be fried are dipped in the eggs first,
+then rolled in bread-crumbs and fried.
+
+_Another._--When rolled in bread-crumbs as above; dip again in the eggs,
+roll again in bread-crumbs and fry.
+
+_Another._--Dip the object in melted butter, then in eggs, and roll in
+bread-crumbs; fry.
+
+
+  LARDING.
+
+All pork-butchers sell salt pork for larding. Cut it in slices and then
+by cutting the slices across it makes square strips or fillets.
+
+The strips must be of a proper size to be easily inserted into the
+larding-needle, and are about two inches and a half long.
+
+When the needle is run half way through the meat, insert the salt pork
+into it, pull the needle off and leave the salt pork inside of the meat,
+both ends of it sticking out.
+
+If it were running through, that is, if the salt pork were pulled off
+with the needle, most likely the strips are too small; then pull slowly,
+and when the salt pork is far enough into the meat, press on it with the
+finger and pull the needle, it will then stay in its proper place. It is
+better to cut a few strips first and try if they are of a proper size.
+
+If, in pulling off the needle, the salt pork does not enter the meat,
+the strips are too large.
+
+If the strips are of a proper size and break while pulling the needle
+off, then the pork is not good.
+
+_Fricandeau_, sweetbreads, birds, etc., are larded in the same way.
+
+For beef _à la mode_, it is described in the receipt.
+
+
+  LARDING-NEEDLE.
+
+The best are made of brass. Those that are sold for steel are generally
+of iron, and break easily.
+
+Those for beef _à la mode_ are of steel, and must be flat near the
+point, in order to cut the meat.
+
+
+  LEAVEN.
+
+Knead four ounces of flour with baker's yeast, enough to make a rather
+thick dough; give it the shape of a rather flat apple; with a sharp
+knife make two cuts on the top and across, and through about one-third
+of the paste; put the paste in a pan of lukewarm water. In a few minutes
+it will float; take it off and use then after it has floated about two
+minutes.
+
+
+  MEAT.
+
+The time it takes to cook meat depends as much on the quality of the
+meat as on the fire. Some persons like meat more done than others; in
+many cases you must consult your own taste or that of your guests.
+
+Beef, lamb, mutton, and game, may be eaten rather underdone, according
+to taste; domestic fowls must be properly cooked; but pork and veal must
+always be overdone, or else it is very unwholesome, if not dangerous.
+
+The following table may be used as a guide:
+
+  Bear and Buffalo,                      a five-pound piece,    5 to 7 hrs.
+  Wild Boar and Woodchuck,                     Do.    do.       3 to 4 hrs.
+  Beef,                                        Do.    do.       1 hr. 30 m.
+   Do.                                   a ten pound piece,     2 hrs. 30 m.
+  Capon,                                 a large one,           1 hour.
+  Chicken,                               a middling-sized one, 45 min.
+  Duck,                                  a large one,          45 min.
+   Do.                                   a small one,          30 min.
+  Goose,                                 a large one,           2 hours.
+   Do.                                   a small one,           1 hr. 30 m.
+  Grouse, Heathcock, Snipe, and W'dcock, a fat one,            30 min.
+   Do.         do.    do.         do.    a lean one,           20 min.
+  Guinea Fowl,                           a middling-sized one,  1 hour.
+  Hare,                                  an old one,            1 hr. 30 m.
+   Do.                                   a young one,           about 1 hr.
+  Lamb and Kid,                          a large quarter,       1 hour.
+   Do.    do.                            a small one,          45 min.
+  Mutton,                                a four-pound piece,    1 hour.
+   Do.                                   a six    "     "       1 hr. 30 m.
+  Partridge, Pheasant, and Prairie-Hen,  a middling-sized one, 30 to 45 m.
+  Pigeon,                                one,                  30 min.
+  Pork,                                  a two-pound piece,     1 hr. 15 m.
+   Do.                                   a four    "    "       2 hours.
+  Quail,                                 one,                  20 min.
+  Sucking-Pig,                           a large one,           2 hrs. 30 m.
+   Do.    do.                            a small one,           2 hours.
+  Rabbit,                                a middling-sized one, 30 to 45 min.
+  Robin, Blackbird, Fig-pecker,
+  High-holder, Lapwing, Meadow Lark,
+  Plover, Reed-bird, Thrush,
+  Yellow-bird, and other small birds,                          15 to 20 min.
+  Turkey,                                a large one,           1 hr. 30 m.
+   Do.                                   a small one,           about 1 hour.
+  Veal,                                  a two-pound piece,     1 hr. 15 m.
+  Venison,                               a four    "    "       about 1 hour.
+
+The following table may be used as a guide to know how long meat may be
+kept, in a cool, dry, and dark place; and protected from flies or other
+insects:
+
+                                                In Summer.    In Winter.
+
+  Bear and Buffalo,                             3 to 4 days.    10 to 15 days.
+  Wild Boar and Woodchuck,                      3 to 4    "      8 to 10    "
+  Beef and Pork,                                2 to 4    "      6 to 10    "
+  Capon,                                        2 to 3    "      4 to  8    "
+  Chicken, old one,                             3 to 4    "      4 to 10    "
+  Do.    young one,                             1 to 2    "      2 to  6    "
+  Deer, Partridge, Pheasant, Prairie-Hen, Quail,
+  Guinea-Fowl, and Turkey,                      2 to 3    "      6 to 10    "
+  Duck and Goose,                               3 to 4    "      4 to  8    "
+  Hare and Rabbit,                              2 to 3    "      4 to  8    "
+  Grouse, Heathcock, Snipe, and Woodcock,       3 to 4    "      8 to 15    "
+  Lamb, Kid, Sucking Pig, and Veal,             2 to 3    "      3 to  6    "
+  Mutton,                                       2 to 3    "      6 to 10    "
+  Pigeons, Blackbirds, Fig-peckers, High-holders,
+  Lapwings, Meadow Larks,
+  Plovers, Reed-birds, Robins, Thrushes,
+  Yellow-birds, and other small birds,          2 to 3    "      6 to 10    "
+
+The time must be reduced one-half in summer, in stormy or damp weather,
+and one-third in winter, in thawing or rainy weather.
+
+_Fish._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, place it in a crockery
+stewpan, cover it with cold water, add a little salt, two or three
+sprigs of thyme, and one or two bay-leaves. It will keep thus for some
+time.
+
+
+  MOULDS.
+
+_Mould for Meat Pies._--A mould for meat pies may be round or oval; it
+must be in two pieces, fastened together by a kind of hinge. When the
+pie is baked, the wire pin holding the mould is pulled, and the mould
+removed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Mould for Pies_, _Jellies_, _etc._--This mould may be used for any
+thing that requires a mould; it may also be round, oval, or of any other
+shape.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+  OLIVES.
+
+Fresh and ripe they are served as dessert with other fruit. Preserved,
+they are served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, and used to flavor and decorate
+different dishes.
+
+Olives as well as sardines are healthful and considered one of the best
+_hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+
+  OSMAZOME.
+
+Osmazome is found in beef, mutton, full-grown domestic fowls, venison,
+and game; in the latter, when the bird or animal is adult.
+
+In meat soup, the osmazome is the soluble part of the meat that
+dissolves in boiling, and makes nutritious broth.
+
+In broiled or roasted pieces, it is that part which makes a kind of
+brown crust on the surface of the meat, and also the brownish part of
+the gravy.
+
+Chicken, lamb, sucking-pig, veal, etc., do not contain any osmazome.
+
+
+  PARSLEY, CHERVIL, THYME, CELERY, SAGE, ETC.,--FOR WINTER USE.
+
+Hang in the shade, under a shed, or in a garret, and in a clean and dry
+place, some small bunches of parsley, chervil, celery, etc., the roots
+upward; leave them thus till perfectly dry, then place them in your
+spice-box for winter use.
+
+The best time for drying them is at the end of October or the beginning
+of November; dig them up in fine and dry weather, so as to have them
+clean without washing.
+
+Soak in cold water half an hour before using.
+
+
+  WHITE PEPPER.
+
+This is black pepper decorticated.
+
+Put peppercorns in a bowl, cover with cold water, and leave thus till
+the skin is tender; then drain. Take the skin off, let it dry, grind it;
+place with your other spices, and use where directed. It takes many days
+for the skin to become tender.
+
+
+  QUALITY OF MEAT, FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUIT, ETC.
+
+The quality of meat depends entirely on the quality of food with which
+the animal has been fed.
+
+For fish, the taste or quality is according to the kind of water in
+which they have lived; fish from a muddy pond smell of mud, while fish
+from a clear brook are delicious.
+
+The same difference exists in vegetables and fruit; their quality is
+according to the quality or nature of the ground in which they have been
+grown.
+
+
+  PASTRY-BAG.
+
+A bag for pastry is made with thick, strong linen; of a conical shape,
+about one foot long, eight inches broad at one end when spread on a flat
+surface, and which makes about sixteen inches in circumference, and only
+one inch and a quarter at the other end, and in which latter end a tin
+tube is placed, so that the smaller end of the tin tube will come out of
+the smaller end of the bag. Putting then some mixture into the bag and
+by pressing from the upper end downward, the mixture will come out of
+the tin tube.
+
+
+  RAW MATERIALS.
+
+If American cookery is inferior to any other generally, it is not on
+account of a want of the first two requisites--raw materials and money
+to buy them; so there is no excuse for it, both are given to the cooks.
+
+Here, where markets rival the best markets of Europe and even surpass
+them in abundance, it is really a pity to live as many do live.
+
+
+  SCALLOPED KNIFE.
+
+This knife is used to cut beets, carrots, turnip-rooted celery,
+potatoes, radishes, and turnips; in slices, round, oblong, or of any
+other shape; either to decorate dishes, or to be served alone or with
+something else, or to be fried.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The annexed cuts will give an idea of what can be done with it. It is
+understood that the vegetables are peeled first.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+  SHALLOTS.
+
+Shallots come from Syria. Shallot is stronger than garlic and onion; a
+real Tartar sauce cannot be made without shallot. The small, green onion
+is a good substitute for it.
+
+
+  SKEWERS.
+
+The cuts below are skewers. The common ones are used to fasten pieces of
+meat together; to roast or bake small birds, liver in _brochette_, etc.,
+etc.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Those to decorate are only used with different flowers or vegetables,
+and stuck inside of different pieces of meat as a decoration. They are
+removed just before carving.
+
+The use of them is explained in the different receipts. They may be
+different from those seen in the cuts.
+
+
+  SPICES.
+
+The cooks of this country generally have a queer idea of what they call
+French cookery and French spices.
+
+Some honestly believe that to make a French dish a great deal of pepper
+and other strong seasonings must be put in.
+
+Many other persons, who have not been in Europe, really believe also,
+that French cookery is what is called highly-seasoned. There never was a
+greater mistake.
+
+If French cooks use several kinds of spices, and may-be more than
+American cooks, they are not the same; or if some are the same, such as
+pepper, they use them in much smaller proportions.
+
+They generally use thyme, parsley, bay-leaf, chervil, tarragon, etc.,
+which are aromatic; but never use (in this climate) ginger, curry,
+cayenne pepper, pimento, catsups, variegated colored pickles made with
+pyroligneous acids, etc., and which are very exciting and irritating.
+
+Some of our readers may naturally ask: How is it that French cookery is
+believed by many to be the contrary of what it really is?
+
+Because every eating-house, of no matter what size, pretends to be a
+first-rate one or a fashionable one--and to be first-rate or fashionable
+must, as a matter of course, have French cooks, or at least cook French
+dishes.
+
+You enter the place, ask for a French dish; or, ask if you can have such
+a dish, _à la Française_?
+
+You are politely and emphatically answered in the affirmative; and very
+often the polite waiter says that a French cook presides in the kitchen.
+
+Result!--the cook, be he from the Green Isle or of African descent,
+receiving the order to prepare a French dish, puts a handful of pepper
+in the already too much peppered, old-fashioned prepared dish, and sends
+it to the confident customer as a genuine French dish.
+
+Said customer never asks a second time for a French dish, and pronounces
+French cookery to be--abominable!
+
+
+  STIRRING.
+
+Never use any spoon but a wooden one to stir any thing on the fire or in
+a warm state.
+
+
+  STRAINING.
+
+To strain, is to pass a sauce or any thing else through a sieve, a
+strainer, or a piece of cloth, in order to have it freed from particles
+of every kind.
+
+Broth is strained to make soup, so as to remove the small pieces of
+bones that may be in it, etc.
+
+
+  SUGAR.
+
+Sugar plays a very important part in cooking. It is added to cereals,
+vegetables, and fruit, many of which would almost be unpalatable without
+it, and which are rendered not only palatable but wholesome by its
+action.
+
+It is the sugar of the carrot and that of the onion, or of the garlic,
+that gives such a peculiar and delicious flavor to gravies and sauces,
+to _beef à la mode_, _fricandeau_, etc.
+
+_Pulverized._--When pulverized or powdered sugar can be had pure, it
+saves the trouble to do it; but often there are foreign matters in it
+and therefore it is better to make it; you know then what you have.
+
+Break loaf sugar into small lumps, pound it and sift it. With a fine
+sieve, you can make it as fine as you please.
+
+It was not used in Europe until about the middle of the seventeenth
+century.
+
+For the cooking of sugar, see Preserves.
+
+
+  TARRAGON.
+
+The French name of tarragon is _estragon_. It is excellent in vinegar
+and in many fish sauces. It is aromatic, sudorific, and stomachic, and
+grows very well in this country. It grows at least twice as large here
+as in Europe.
+
+
+  TIN TUBES.
+
+These tubes are put in the pastry-bag, at the smaller end of it, to make
+_meringues_, ladies' fingers, etc.; they are of tin, and can be made by
+any tinsmith.
+
+They have the shape of a trapezoid or frustum. Two are enough for any
+purpose.
+
+No. 1. One inch and a half long; one inch and three-eighths in diameter
+at one end, and nine-sixteenths of an inch at the other end.
+
+No. 2. One inch and a half long; one inch and a half in diameter at one
+end, and six-eighths of an inch at the other.
+
+
+  TRUFFLES.
+
+Truffles are found in Europe and Africa, where they were first
+discovered.
+
+The truffle is neither an animal nor a vegetable, although it has been
+classed among the fungi, which has root, and the truffle has neither
+root nor stem.
+
+The truffle is used for stuffing and flavoring only otherwise it is not
+of much value. On account of their scarcity, and the difficulty in
+finding them, they are rather costly.
+
+We think truffles may be compared to lace--both are dear, and neither
+has an intrinsic value.
+
+
+  VANILLA.
+
+Is a native of America, extensively used for seasoning creams, pastry,
+etc., to which it gives a delicious flavor.
+
+Although a native of America, all the extracts of vanilla, as well as
+others, were formerly imported; but within a few years Americans have
+found out that they are able to distil also, and "Burnett's Extract of
+Vanilla" is better known to-day all over the country than any other.
+
+
+  VEGETABLE SPOONS.
+
+Vegetable spoons are used to cut potatoes, carrots, and turnips; there
+are different shapes, round, oval, carrot-shape, plain, and scalloped.
+We give here only two, being sufficient to explain their use.
+
+The first (_a_) is of an oval shape, and makes the cut _c_; the second
+(_b_) is round, and makes the cut _d_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When the vegetable is peeled, place the spoon on it, the convex side up;
+holding the vegetable in your left hand, press on the spoon with your
+left thumb, and in order to cause it to cut the vegetable while turning
+it with the right hand, first half way or rather when the half of it is
+inside of the vegetable, stop, turn it the other way, causing it to cut
+the vegetable also, then raise it up without turning at all and you
+have in the spoon a piece of vegetable of the shape of the spoon, and as
+seen in the cuts.
+
+
+  WATER.
+
+Rain-water is for cooking purposes, as for other purposes, the best, but
+is seldom used, especially in large cities, where it is difficult to
+procure it. Another difficulty is, when procured it soon gets foul.
+
+The next best is river-water, or water from lakes.
+
+By boiling, water evaporates its gases and alkali, and is inferior
+afterward for cooking purposes, especially for boiling vegetables;
+therefore, we earnestly recommend to use the water at the first boiling.
+
+When foul water has to be used for want of other, if no filter,
+charcoal, sand, or paper can be had to filter it, it will improve by
+boiling it and then exposing it to the air for some time.
+
+
+  WINES.
+
+Native wines, when pure, are just as good as any other for cooking
+purposes.
+
+It is wrong and a great mistake to underrate native wines; they have a
+little more acerbity than foreign wines, but are not inferior. It cannot
+be otherwise, being grown in a virgin soil, or nearly so. The richer the
+soil or the younger the vineyard, the more acid the wine.
+
+Cold nights during the ripening of the fruit make the wine more acid,
+not ripening so perfectly.
+
+Wine is a healthy drink, and many invalids would recover much quicker by
+a judicious use of it.
+
+Different wines are used in cooking, and we give the names of the best
+ones in the different receipts.
+
+A little vinegar may be used as a substitute for wine, but it is very
+inferior, and in many dishes it cannot be used at all.
+
+A few dollars spent during the year in wine for cooking purposes, makes
+much better and more wholesome dishes.
+
+White wine contains little tannin; it retains nitrogenous matters, and
+is free from essential oils; hence the superior flavor and quality of
+brandy made with white wines.
+
+It is more aperient and less nutritive than red wine.
+
+Essential oils pass in red wine while it is fermenting.
+
+Wine and sugar with certain fruits are excellent, and are known to
+neutralize the crudity of the fruit, such as straw-berries, pears,
+peaches, currants, etc.
+
+
+  MOTTO.
+
+The motto of the New York Cooking Academy is--
+
+_Since we must eat to live, let us prepare our food in such a manner,
+that our physical, intellectual, and moral capacities may be extended as
+far as is designed by our CREATOR._
+
+
+
+
+  DIVERS RECEIPTS.
+
+
+  ALMONDS.
+
+Two kinds are used in cooking, the sweet and the bitter.
+
+They are shelled first, then by pouring boiling water on them and
+leaving them in it for two or three minutes, they are easily skinned.
+
+They are sometimes used as soon as skinned, and sometimes dried after
+being skinned and just before using.
+
+When wanted dried, place them in a pan in a slow oven with the door
+open, and turn them occasionally.
+
+
+  LEMONADE OR ORANGEADE.
+
+Put two ounces of loaf sugar in a quart of water, also the rind of an
+orange or one of lemon. Half an hour after strain the whole, and press
+into it the juice of the orange, and a few drops of lemon-juice. If
+found too strong, add water and sugar. It is a very good drink in
+summer, or for evening parties. A little currant jelly may be added to
+make a variety.
+
+
+  LEMONADE WITH BARLEY.
+
+To the above lemonade or orangeade you add, instead of water and sugar,
+some barley-water and sugar; it is very good and very refreshing.
+
+Barley-water is made by soaking in lukewarm water a pint of barley,
+drain it two or three minutes after; put the barley in a crockery pan,
+cover it with cold water (about three quarts), set it on the fire, and
+boil till the barley is perfectly cooked; skim off the scum during the
+cooking, drain, let cool, and use the water.
+
+
+  BARLEY SUGAR FOR CHILDREN.
+
+Soak a quart of barley in lukewarm water for two or three minutes, and
+drain. Put the barley in a crockery stewpan, with four or five quarts of
+water, and set it on a good fire, boil till the barley is overdone, and
+then take from the fire, mash it as well as possible and strain,
+throwing away what there is in the strainer, and if the remainder does
+not make a kind of jelly when cool, the barley has not been boiled
+enough.
+
+Mix that jelly with sugar and fry it; it is better than any other candy,
+barley being refreshing, and the principal substance of it.
+
+
+  BAVAROISE WITH CHOCOLATE.
+
+Put in a tin pan a pint of milk, with one ounce of chocolate, and two of
+sugar; set it over the fire, but do not allow it to boil; stir well with
+a wooden spoon during the process, and when the whole is well mixed,
+serve warm in cups.
+
+It is an excellent and wholesome drink in the evening.
+
+_The same with Coffee or Tea._--Proceed as above in every particular,
+except that you put in the pan a small cup of coffee or tea instead of
+chocolate, and a little more sugar.
+
+
+  BICHOF.
+
+Put in a crockery tureen two bottles of white wine, with an orange and a
+lemon, both cut in slices; cover, and place it in a warm place for about
+ten hours; then strain into a vessel, and mix well with the liquor
+about a pound of loaf sugar, and a little grated cinnamon.
+
+It may be served warm or cold.
+
+_Another way._--Melt a pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of cold water,
+and then mix with it two bottles of white wine, a pinch of grated
+cinnamon, the juice of an orange, and that of a lemon, and use. It takes
+only a few minutes to make it.
+
+If found too strong, add water and sugar.
+
+
+  TO PRESERVE BIRDS.
+
+Broil or roast, according to our directions, chickens, ducks, geese,
+turkeys, partridges, pheasants, prairie hens, quails, etc.; then carve
+them; take the bones out of the pieces, place them in a crockery pot,
+which you fill with melted butter or lard, and cover well when cold.
+Place the pot in a cool and dry place, and they will keep for months.
+
+When you wish to eat them, take out the quantity you want, and place it
+in a frying-pan, with the butter or lard that is around; fry till warm,
+and serve.
+
+
+  BREAD-CRUMBS.
+
+Put slices of stale bread in a slow oven till they are perfectly dried
+up. Break them in pieces and reduce them to coarse powder with a rolling
+pin; sift them, and they are ready for use.
+
+Bread-crumbs are better than cracker-crumbs; the latter, when reduced to
+powder, are too floury, and besides, there is always stale bread enough
+in a kitchen to make crumbs.
+
+The above crumbs are rather brown.
+
+_White crumbs._--Cut in rather large dice the soft part of stale bread,
+put the pieces in a new and coarse towel, rub between the hands so as
+to reduce the pieces of bread to crumbs; pass through a colander or
+through a sieve, according to need, coarse or fine, and use.
+
+
+  BURNT SUGAR.
+
+Take an old tin ladle and place it over a sharp fire, with two ounces of
+loaf sugar in it; stir with a stick or skewer till it is thoroughly
+black and burnt. Then add, little by little, about one gill of water;
+stir a little, boil about four minutes, but not fast, lest it should
+boil over the ladle; strain, and it is made.
+
+As soon as cold, bottle it and use when wanted.
+
+It keeps any length of time.
+
+It is used to color broth, sauces, gravies, etc.
+
+It is called _caramel_ in French.
+
+
+  COFFEE.
+
+It is simple to make coffee. Of course, when properly made, with good
+berries, the liquor is good.
+
+When good roasted coffee can be bought, it saves the trouble of roasting
+it, and is, or rather ought to be, cheaper than it can be done in a
+family.
+
+If coffee is roasted a long time before being used it loses much of its
+aroma, therefore a family ought not to roast more than it can use in
+about a week, while twenty or twenty-five pounds can be roasted at one
+time and by one person.
+
+Three or four different kinds, roasted separately, and properly mixed,
+make better coffee than one kind alone.
+
+A good proportion is: to one pound of Java add about four ounces of
+Mocha, and four ounces of one or two other kinds.
+
+Good coffee, as well as tea, is said to possess exhilarating
+properties.
+
+Its use was not known in Europe before 1650. Neither was the use of
+sugar, tobacco, and brandy.
+
+Good coffee cannot be made but by leaching.
+
+The easiest utensil is what is called a filter, or coffee-pot, or
+biggin, according to locality, with a top to diffuse the water.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The coffee-pot called "the French balance" makes the best-flavored
+coffee, but it is an expensive one.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There are several good filters, but the great majority or the people
+find them too complicated for daily use.
+
+The bottom of the filter should be of silvered brass-gauze instead of
+perforated tin, as it is generally.
+
+Gauze-holes being much smaller than those of perforated tin, the coffee
+can be ground much finer, and therefore, all the strength and aroma can
+be had; while if ground coarse, it is utterly impossible.
+
+Good coffee cannot be made in a utensil often but wrongly called a
+_coffee-pot_, which is nothing but a pot, and something like a tea-pot.
+
+With such a utensil, the grounds must be boiled; and as no liquor can be
+boiled without allowing the steam to escape (the steam made by boiling
+coffee being its aroma), therefore the best part of the coffee is
+evaporated before it is served.
+
+Never grind your coffee until ready to make it.
+
+No matter how air-tight you keep it, the aroma evaporates or is
+absorbed.
+
+Coffee can be ground and made as soon as cool; but it is better to let
+it stand for about twenty-four hours after being roasted.
+
+If kept as air-tight as possible in a tin-box, it will keep very well
+for about a week.
+
+Never buy ground coffee except when you cannot help it.
+
+By taking a pinch of ground coffee and rolling it between wetted
+fingers, it will remain in grains, if pure; and will form in a ball if
+foreign matters are mixed with it.
+
+
+  TO ROAST.
+
+In roasting, good coffee swells about thirty-three per cent., and loses
+about sixteen per cent. in weight.
+
+Roast once a week or oftener.
+
+Put coffee in the apparatus (cylinder, or drum, or roaster), the
+quantity to be according to the size of the roaster, or according to how
+much is needed. Have a rather slow fire at first; when the coffee has
+swollen, augment the fire, turning, shaking, tossing the roaster,
+sometimes fast, sometimes slowly, and take from the fire a little
+before it is roasted enough; the roasting will be finished before the
+coffee gets cold and before taking it from the roaster, which you
+continue turning and shaking as if it were yet on the fire.
+
+A charcoal fire is the handiest, and more easily regulated.
+
+It is well roasted when it evaporates a pleasing odor and when of a
+brownish color.
+
+Then take it from the roaster, spread it on a matting or on a piece of
+cloth, and put it in a tin-box as soon as cold.
+
+It is exceedingly difficult, if not utterly impossible, to roast coffee
+properly by machinery, and for two reasons: in the first place, there is
+too much of it in the cylinder to roast evenly, some berries are burned,
+others not roasted enough; the other is, that being turned by machinery,
+the cylinder is turned regularly and is neither shaken nor tossed; and
+even if there were not too much coffee in it, some berries would be much
+more roasted than others.
+
+
+  TO MAKE.
+
+Set a kettle of cold water on the fire. Place the ground coffee in the
+filter, and as soon as the water begins to boil, pour just enough of it
+over the coffee to wet it. Put the kettle back on the fire, and again,
+at the first boiling, pour it over the coffee rather slowly, and till
+you have poured enough water to furnish the quantity of coffee required.
+
+If the water does not pass through fast enough, just stop pouring for a
+few seconds, that is, long enough to put the kettle back on the fire and
+start the boiling again. As soon as the water has passed through, the
+coffee is made. The quantity of coffee must be according to the strength
+you wish it, and the quantity wanted, or according to age and
+constitution.
+
+Four teaspoonfuls make a quart of very good coffee for breakfast. It
+would be rather strong for children, but can be diluted to a proper
+state with milk.
+
+No matter what quantity of coffee is put in the filter, the liquor must
+be clear; the more is used, the blacker the substance is, but it must
+never be muddy. If muddy at all, be sure you have not used good coffee.
+
+One pound of good coffee to a quart of water, should make black but
+clear coffee.
+
+
+  CAFÉ AU LAIT.
+
+This is coffee and milk for breakfast. The milk is set on the fire in a
+tin saucepan, and taken off when it rises; then mixed with the coffee,
+either in the cup or any kind of vessel. The proportions are pint for
+pint.
+
+
+  CAFÉ NOIR.
+
+_Café noir_ is the name given to the coffee taken after dinner. It is
+generally made rather strong. Gentlemen sometimes put liquor in it--a
+glass of brandy, or rum, or kirschwasser; and ladies, a little cold
+milk.
+
+Taken fifteen or twenty minutes after dinner, it helps digestion. It
+excites the faculties of the mind, and gives what physiologists call
+"agreeable sensations."
+
+Coffee is nutritious, and to a certain extent prevents waste of the
+system.
+
+
+  CHOCOLATE.
+
+The quantity of chocolate for a certain quantity of milk is according to
+taste. Two ounces of chocolate make a good cup of it, and rather thick.
+
+Break the chocolate in pieces, put it in a tin saucepan with a
+tablespoonful of water to an ounce of chocolate, and set it on a rather
+slow fire. Stir now and then till thoroughly melted.
+
+While the chocolate is melting, set the quantity of milk desired in
+another tin saucepan on the fire, and as soon as it rises and when the
+chocolate is melted, as directed above, turn the milk into the
+chocolate, little by little, beating well at the same time with an
+egg-beater. Keep beating and boiling after being mixed, for three or
+four minutes; take off and serve.
+
+If both chocolate and milk are good, it will be frothy; and no better or
+more nutritious drink can be had.
+
+
+  CHOCA.
+
+Choca is nothing more nor less than one cup of coffee and milk mixed
+with a cup of chocolate, and for breakfast.
+
+
+  COCOA.
+
+Put in a tea or coffee cup one or two tablespoonfuls of ground cocoa,
+pour boiling water or boiling milk on it, little by little, stirring
+with a spoon the while; sweeten it to taste. A few drops of essence of
+vanilla may be added, according to taste.
+
+
+  ESSENCE OF SPINACH, OR GREEN ESSENCE.
+
+Put two handfuls of very green and fresh spinach in a mortar and pound
+it well. Then put it in a saucepan, set on a rather slow fire, and when
+on the point of boiling take it off, pass it through a sieve and use. It
+may be kept for some time with a little sugar.
+
+
+  ESSENCE OF BEEF.
+
+The essence of beef of commerce is well known.
+
+To make essence of beef used in cooking and called _glace_ in French,
+set three or four quarts of broth on a slow fire, in a saucepan and
+reduce it to jelly. Keep it simmering all the time; it may take twenty
+hours to reduce. When properly reduced, it is of a very dark-brown
+color and has a very pleasant odor.
+
+When cold, it must be rather hard.
+
+When essence of beef tastes like glue and has an unpleasant odor, it is
+not made properly, or with good beef.
+
+If properly made, it will keep any length of time.
+
+It is used to thicken sauces, to decorate boned birds, etc.; when in a
+hurry, it may be used to make soup, but, like every thing preserved, is
+of course inferior to fresh broth.
+
+
+  ICING.
+
+Put about three tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar in a bowl with the
+white of a small egg; and then mix and work well for at least five
+minutes with a piece of wood. When done it is perfectly white and rather
+thick.
+
+Make a kind of funnel with thick, white paper; put the mixture in it,
+and by squeezing it out, you make decorations according to fancy, on
+cakes, charlotte russe, etc. You make the decorations of the size you
+please, by cutting the smaller end of the paper-funnel of the size you
+wish.
+
+The mixture may also be spread on cakes with a knife, according to what
+kind of decoration is desired.
+
+A charlotte russe may be decorated in the same way, with the same cream
+as that used to fill it.
+
+
+  MEAT JELLIES.
+
+Put in a saucepan two ounces of gelatine with three eggs and shells, a
+tablespoonful of salt, the rind of half a lemon, a liquor-glass of rum
+or brandy, or a wine-glass of sherry, port, or madeira wine; mix well
+the whole. Add one quart of broth, twelve pepper-corns; beat the whole
+well with an egg-beater and set on a good fire; stir gently till it
+comes to a boil; then move it on a rather slow fire; boil slowly for
+about eight minutes and turn into the jelly-bag. Have two bowls at hand
+to be used alternately; have one under the bag before turning the jelly
+into it; and when it has passed through the bag once, turn it into the
+bag again, putting the other bowl under; repeat this three or four
+times, and it will be perfectly clear. Just before turning into the bag
+the first time, a few drops of burnt sugar are added to give the jelly
+an amber color. Use the jelly immediately if wanted in liquid form, as
+to fill a meat-pie, etc., or put it on ice to congeal.
+
+_Boned-turkey Jelly._--As soon as the water in which you have boiled a
+boned turkey is cold, skim off the fat and strain it. Then proceed
+exactly as for meat jelly, except that you take one quart of the above
+instead of one quart of beef broth.
+
+_Boned-chicken Jelly._--Prepare the water in which the boned chicken has
+been cooked, the same as above; take a quart of it and proceed as for
+meat jelly for the rest.
+
+For jelly to decorate any boned bird, the water in which it has been
+cooked may be used, as described above.
+
+_Calves'-feet Jelly._--Scald well four calves' feet, and split each in
+two lengthwise. Put them in a saucepan with about three pints of water,
+two onions, two cloves, two cloves of garlic, six sprigs of parsley, one
+of thyme, a stalk of celery if handy, salt, and half a dozen
+pepper-corns. Set on the fire, boil gently till well cooked. Serve the
+feet with a _poulette_ or _vinaigrette_.
+
+Strain the liquor; put in it two eggs with their shells, salt, rum or
+wine, as in meat jelly; beat the whole well with an egg-beater; set on a
+good fire, and finish like meat jelly.
+
+_Calf's-head Jelly._--Proceed as for the above in every particular,
+except that you use four eggs, having about twice as much liquor,
+therefore making twice as much jelly. A little gelatine may be added, if
+not found firm enough.
+
+
+  MEAT GRAVY.
+
+When you are short of gravy, cut a little piece of veal, say half a
+pound of the breast or neck piece, or trimmings of veal-cutlets; set on
+the fire with about an ounce of butter, and half of a rather small
+carrot cut in slices; stir, and when the meat is turning rather brown,
+add two or three onions in slices also; stir again till the onions are
+nearly fried; when covered with broth or water, add salt, a dozen whole
+peppers, a bay-leaf, and two stalks of thyme; boil gently for two or
+three hours, and strain.
+
+If it is boiling away, add water to fill up.
+
+Trimmings of mutton, lamb, beef, chicken, or turkey, may be added to the
+veal.
+
+In case of hurry, it may be done quickly and by boiling rather fast, but
+it is not as good, and there is less of it with the same quantity of
+meat.
+
+For a grand dinner, the gravy may be made one or two and even three days
+in advance; then simmer it for five or six hours.
+
+
+  MELONS.
+
+Musk-melons are always served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, but must be eaten
+immediately after soup, or the first thing of all if no soup is served.
+
+It is a great mistake to serve melons as a dessert.
+
+Water-melons, though eaten abundantly, are considered very unwholesome
+by the great majority of doctors, chemists, and physiologists.
+
+Musk-melons are served in slices with sugar, or with salt and pepper,
+according to taste.
+
+
+  MEUNIÈRE.
+
+Mix well together in a cup one teaspoonful of flour with a tablespoonful
+of cold water.
+
+It is used to thicken sauces and different dishes.
+
+
+  MINT.
+
+Put four sprigs of mint into a quart of brandy, cork well, or cover
+air-tight if in a pot, and leave thus forty-eight hours; then strain
+through a cloth. Put half a pound of loaf sugar in a stewpan with a pint
+of water, set it on the fire, and, at the first boiling, pour it into
+the quart of brandy; cover with a cloth, let it cool, and again strain
+the whole through a fine cloth. Bottle and cork carefully, and use when
+wanted.
+
+A small liquor-glass of it is very good for stomach-ache; it is also
+useful after having eaten any thing difficult of digestion.
+
+
+  PANADE.
+
+Break in pieces the soft part of a small stale loaf of bread; put it in
+a tin saucepan, cover it with cold water, and leave thus about an hour;
+then mash it well, set it on the fire, add salt, butter, and sugar, to
+taste; simmer about an hour, then add again two yolks of eggs beaten
+with two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk; mix the whole well together,
+and serve.
+
+It makes an excellent food for infants.
+
+
+  PAP.
+
+Put an ounce of butter in a tin saucepan, set it on the fire, and when
+melted, turn into it two tablespoonfuls of flour, thoroughly mixed with
+half a pint of milk; stir with a wooden spoon, boil gently for about
+twelve minutes, stirring the while; take off, turn into a bowl, add salt
+and sugar to taste, and use.
+
+If wanted richer, an egg may be mixed with the flour and milk, or a yolk
+of egg may be added as soon as taken from the fire.
+
+
+  RAISINS.
+
+When the stems of raisins or of currants are removed, put them in a
+bowl, dust them well with flour, move them round a little, then turn
+them into a sieve and shake them well. This process will remove the sand
+as well as washing them, and will not take away the sweetness.
+
+
+  SANDWICHES.
+
+These are too well known to require any direction.
+
+
+  SAUSAGE-MEAT.
+
+Butchers generally, with an eye to economy, make sausage-meat of bad or
+tainted pork.
+
+We recommend our readers, as far as possible, never to buy sausage-meat
+ready made, but to make it themselves, or have it made according to
+their directions.
+
+A chopping-machine costs very little, and saves a great deal of work,
+besides chopping much better than can be done by hand.
+
+The proportions are: one pound of lean pork and one pound of lean veal,
+chopped very fine, well mixed, and both very fresh. Season with salt,
+pepper, nutmeg and clove grated, and with cinnamon, if liked.
+
+A yolk of egg may be added to a pound of meat.
+
+It may also be made with one pound of veal and half a pound or less of
+pork, or with veal only or pork only, according to taste.
+
+
+  SOUSE.
+
+Put three ounces of butter in a saucepan, and set it on the fire; when
+melted, add two carrots and two onions sliced, stir now and then till
+they begin to turn brown; then add about three pints of warm water, half
+a pint of vinegar, one clove of garlic, four sprigs of parsley, one of
+thyme, a clove, a bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, a little grated nutmeg,
+and salt. Simmer about an hour, strain, and it is ready for use.
+
+_Another._--Put two quarts of vinegar and about ten quarts of water in a
+stone or crockery vessel, with four cloves of garlic, a handful of
+parsley, six cloves, four stalks of thyme, four bay-leaves, half a
+nutmeg grated, three or four carrots, and three or four onions sliced, a
+little salt, and two dozen pepper-corns. Stir and mix the whole well,
+and it is ready for use.
+
+Pieces of mutton, beef, pork, venison, and bear-meat, may be soaked in
+one of the above preparations from four to six days before cooking them.
+A piece of tough meat will be more tender and juicy after being soaked.
+
+More or less may be made, according to the size of the piece of meat.
+
+
+  TEA.
+
+There are many ways of making tea; we might say that every one makes it
+in his own way; but, after many experiments and much information, we
+have found the following to be the best:
+
+Warm the teapot either by pouring boiling water in it and emptying it,
+or by placing it on a corner of the range.
+
+Then put good tea in it (the quantity to be according to the strength
+and also to the quantity you want), and pour boiling water on the
+leaves, just enough to wet them; leave thus about one minute, then pour
+on all the water you want.
+
+Let it steep no longer than about six minutes, and not less than four
+minutes, before drawing it.
+
+If allowed to steep longer than six minutes, all the astringency of the
+tea is extracted, and it acts and has a bad effect on the nervous
+system, besides losing most of its aroma.
+
+Chemists and physiologists generally recommend black tea, as not
+affecting the nervous system as much as green tea.
+
+Tea being naturally very astringent, should never be served at
+breakfast.
+
+Taken after dinner, instead of _café noir_, it has the same effect, and
+brandy may be mixed with it as in coffee.
+
+Tea is excellent in damp climates and marshy countries, but it must be
+taken after a substantial meal.
+
+Drinking warm tea while eating causes the food to pass through the
+system without nourishing it, or supplying its waste.
+
+
+  TOAST.
+
+Cut several slices of bread of even size, and spread some anchovy-butter
+on them; cut anchovies in small strips, lengthwise, lay them on the
+bread also, and then spread over some hard-boiled egg chopped fine, and
+on it some parsley also chopped fine, finish with capers here and there.
+
+Place the toast or slices of bread on a dish, tastefully arranged all
+around, a few sprigs of parsley in the middle, and you have a fine
+_hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+Sardines, Dutch herrings, or red herrings may be used the same as
+anchovies.
+
+
+  WELSH RAREBIT.
+
+This dish is not generally understood. It is thought by many to be Welsh
+rabbit, that is, a rabbit prepared _Welsh fashion_.
+
+It is not a rabbit, but Welsh cheese (a certain kind only, and prepared
+for that purpose), melted to a certain degree, and then spread on toast
+of Welsh bread.
+
+Grate some Gloucester or Gruyère cheese and pepper it with Cayenne
+pepper. Fry some slices of bread with a little butter, but on one side
+only, until perfectly yellow, then spread a thick coat of grated cheese
+on the fried side of the bread, place the slices in a baking-pan, put
+them in a pretty warm oven, take off when it begins to melt, and serve
+warm.
+
+Then you have as good a Welsh rarebit as can be made here. The receipt
+was given to us by an English lady.
+
+
+
+
+  POTAGES OR SOUPS.
+
+
+Potage is the modern word for soup, and is used in bills of fare
+everywhere.
+
+Three kinds of liquor are used to make potages: broth, milk, and water.
+
+Besides the liquor, meat, fish, and vegetables are used.
+
+The richest potages are made with _consommé_ and some other compounds;
+such as bread, Italian pastes, vegetables, etc.
+
+_Consommé_ means rich broth; literally, it means consumed, perfect, that
+is, properly reduced and partly consumed, as it is the case in making
+it. _Consommé_ is broth reduced to a certain point, according to want or
+taste.
+
+_Broth._--Broth is to good cooking what wheat is to bread. Dishes (with
+some exceptions) prepared without broth are, to those prepared with it,
+what rye or corn bread is to wheat bread. Broth, and especially
+_consommé_, are to old age what milk is to the infant. Broth is called
+_bouillon_ in France, and _stock_ in England. The word _pot-au-feu_
+means the meat, vegetables, seasonings, spices, and the "pot" or
+soup-kettle itself, _i. e._, every thing made use of in making broth.
+The popular meaning of the term in France is, the soup and the beef and
+vegetables served as _relevés_; and, with the working-classes, the only
+thing (with bread, wine, and fruit) composing the family dinner. The
+French army is fed on this _pot-au-feu_ three hundred and sixty days in
+the year.
+
+It is a great mistake to believe that bones or veal make good broth; by
+boiling or simmering bones or veal, you obtain a gelatinous liquid, but
+not a rich broth with a pleasant flavor. When properly made, broth is
+clear. If milky, it has been made with bones, veal, or very inferior
+beef.
+
+_Broth for Potages._--Take three pounds of good, lean, fresh beef, from
+any part except the shin. There must not be more than two ounces of bone
+to a pound of meat, and the less bone the better. Place the meat in a
+soup-kettle or iron saucepan lined with tin, with three quarts of cold
+water and salt, and set it on a good fire. After about thirty minutes,
+the scum or albumen of the meat will gather on the surface, and the
+water will commence boiling. Now place the kettle on a more moderate
+fire, add one gill of cold water, and begin to skim off the scum, which
+will take only a few minutes. Then add one middle-sized carrot, half as
+much turnip, one middle-sized leek, a stalk of celery, one of parsley, a
+bay-leaf, one onion with two cloves stuck in it, and two cloves of
+garlic. Keep the kettle between simmering and boiling heat for about
+five hours. Dish the meat with carrot, turnip, and leek around it, and
+serve it as a _relevé_. Strain the broth, and it is ready for use.
+
+If the broth is required to be richer, use more beef and less water, but
+follow the same process; if weaker, use more water and less beef, but
+still follow the same process.
+
+_Broth for Sauces and Gravies._--Place in a soup-kettle or saucepan
+fresh bones of beef, mutton, lamb, veal, or poultry--of either, or of
+all; also, bones of the same meats from roasted pieces; also trimmings
+of the same, if very fresh, with one quart of cold water to every pound
+of bones or meat; skim it like the preceding, add the same vegetables
+and seasonings, and simmer for at least six hours. Then skim off very
+carefully all the fat on the surface, pass the remainder through a
+strainer or a sieve, and it is ready for use. This broth is certainly
+very inferior to the preceding one, but it is excellent for sauces and
+gravies, and is very cheaply made. It may be used for potages also; but,
+as we have said above, it is very gelatinous, and cannot be compared
+with the highly nutritious beef-broth.
+
+Broth that is not to be used immediately must be cooled quickly after
+being strained, as the quicker it is cooled the longer it keeps. As soon
+as cold, put it in a stone jar or crockery vessel, and place it in a
+cool, dry, and dark place. It will keep three or four days in winter,
+but only one day in summer. If the weather is stormy, it will not keep
+even for twelve hours; it turns sour very quickly.
+
+I do not put parsnips or thyme in broth, the taste of these two
+vegetables being too strong. They really neutralize the fine aroma of
+broth. Even in this nineteenth century there are some pretty good cooks
+who put thyme and parsnip in broth, but they do it by routine. Routine
+is in every thing the greatest enemy of progress. Ancient cookery used
+to put in the _pot_ (old name for soup-kettle) a burnt onion to give an
+amber color to the broth. This has exactly the same effect as thyme and
+parsnip, giving it a bad taste, and neutralizing the flavor given to the
+broth by the osmazome of the meat. When broth of an amber color is
+desired, add to it a few drops of burnt sugar, the receipt for making
+which will be found elsewhere.
+
+_Consommé._--There are two ways of making _consommé_: one is to make
+broth as above, with the exception that five pounds of lean beef,
+instead of three, are used with three quarts of water, and simmered from
+seven to eight hours, instead of five, the vegetables and seasonings
+being the same; or by boiling broth gently till properly reduced.
+
+The other way is to roast, until they are only one-third done, one, two,
+or three fowls, not under two years old; then place them in a
+soup-kettle with three pounds of lean beef; wet with three quarts of
+cold water; skim off as above directed; add the same vegetables and
+seasonings as for broth for potages. After having simmered the whole for
+three hours, the fowl or fowls must be taken out of the kettle, and the
+rest is to be simmered for about three hours longer. The meat,
+vegetables, and seasonings are then taken from the kettle or saucepan;
+the liquor is strained, and that liquor is the best _consommé_ that can
+be made; or by boiling the same, gently, in three quarts of good broth,
+you make _consommé_ also.
+
+The reason for directing to use one, two, or three fowls is, that the
+more fowls used, the better and richer the broth. The fowls after having
+been thus used may be prepared in salad, and make a very excellent dish.
+
+One pound of beef is enough to make broth for a potage for three or four
+persons.
+
+Always use fresh meat; meat with a venison taste or tainted would spoil
+if not entirely destroy the broth.
+
+_To clarify Broth._--If not as clear as wanted, beat the white of an egg
+with a gill of cold broth, and turn into the broth; boil gently about
+ten minutes, and strain through a cloth or towel.
+
+Any kind of potage made with broth may be made with _consommé_. It may
+also be made with water, adding butter. With _consommé_ it is richer,
+and with water much inferior, than with broth.
+
+When a rump-piece is used to make broth, it is better to bone it first,
+and take it from the soup-kettle after three or four hours; it is served
+as a _relevé_, or prepared as cold beef. The broth is finished as
+directed; the bones and vegetables being kept on the fire longer than
+the meat.
+
+Chicken and turkey broth are often called _potage de santé_ (potage of
+health).
+
+_Chicken._--Roast or bake till turning yellow, a chicken over two years
+old. Put it in a soup-kettle with three pints of water, and set it on a
+rather slow fire; skim off the scum, add a middling-sized onion, a leek,
+a few stalks of chervil if handy, a middling-sized head of lettuce, and
+salt; simmer about three hours. Take out the chicken and vegetables,
+skim off the fat, strain, and use. This broth is excellent for a weak
+stomach, and is easy of digestion. The chicken is served in salad.
+
+_Turkey._--Procure a rather old turkey and roast or bake it till about
+one-third done; put it in a soup-kettle with about a pint of water to a
+pound of meat, and set it on a rather slow fire. As soon as the scum
+comes on the surface, skim it off carefully; then add two onions, two
+leeks, two or three heads of lettuce, a small handful of chervil if
+handy, and salt. Simmer about five hours.
+
+Use the broth as chicken-broth above, and serve the turkey in salad.
+
+_Fish_ (also called _à la Lucullus_).--Slice three middling-sized
+onions and fry them with one ounce of butter till turning yellow; add
+three or four pounds of fish (bass, pike, trout, salmon, and the like),
+any fish having a firm and compact flesh, of one or several kinds; add
+also two carrots, two onions, and one leek, all sliced; four stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, one clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, one clove, six
+pepper-corns, salt; cover the whole with cold water, set on a good but
+not brisk fire, boil gently for about two hours. If the water is boiling
+away, add some more; then strain, and use.
+
+This broth may be used for _bisque_ and fish sauces, instead of
+beef-broth.
+
+It may be made rich; for instance, instead of three pounds of fish, use
+six, seven, eight pounds, or more, and seasonings in proportion.
+
+Louis XV. was on a visit to the monastery of Saint Denis one day during
+Lent; after having walked all over the grounds and gardens, he was
+offered a cup of broth by the superior.
+
+Being a little fatigued, he took the cup and drank the whole at one
+draught.
+
+In going back to Versailles, one of his suite, who did not like the
+monk-superior, adroitly alluded to the cup of broth, and managed to
+persuade the king that the monk had done it on purpose; that is, had
+made the king partake of meat-broth, when it was forbidden by the
+Church.
+
+The next day the monk-superior was sent for and brought before the king.
+On hearing the object of the summons, he asked the king if the broth had
+indisposed him. Being answered in the negative, he begged to be allowed
+to prepare the same broth before the king himself, which he did, and
+from that time till his death the king used to send several hundred
+pounds of fish during Lent to the monks of Saint-Denis.
+
+_Frog._--Skin and put the hind-legs of two dozen of frogs in cold water
+for an hour; drain and put them in a saucepan, and set it on a slow
+fire; stir now and then till they are turning yellow, then take them off
+and chop the flesh rather fine; put back in the pan with a carrot
+sliced, a stalk of celery and one leek, both chopped, a little salt, and
+cover the whole with water. Simmer for about two hours; mash the whole
+through a colander, add butter which you stir and mix in, and it is
+ready for use.
+
+This broth, taken warm before retiring, is excellent for persons having
+a cough or cold.
+
+It is also excellent for consumptive persons, and is only second to
+snail-broth.
+
+_Another._--Take the hind-legs of fifty well-skinned green frogs, put
+them in cold water and a little salt for half an hour--drain them; then
+put them in a crockery kettle, with a leek, half a carrot, two stalks of
+celery, a middling-sized parsnip, a turnip, two onions, one clove of
+garlic, two ounces of fat bacon, a little salt, and white pepper; cover
+the whole well with cold water, set on the fire, simmer gently about
+four hours; strain, pour on _croutons_, and serve.
+
+The hind-legs of the frogs are taken from the strainer, placed on a
+dish, and served at breakfast the next day, with a white sauce, or in
+fricassee, as a chicken.
+
+_Game._--Roast or bake, till about one-third done, two prairie-hens, and
+put them in a soup-kettle with about one pound of lean beef, salt, and
+five pints of water. Set the kettle on a rather slow fire, skim off the
+scum when it gathers on the surface, and then add half a carrot, two
+stalks of parsley, one of celery, one onion with a clove stuck in it, a
+bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, and two cloves of garlic. Simmer about three
+hours, and take the birds out of the kettle; simmer then two hours
+longer; strain, and the broth is ready for use.
+
+Game-broth is warming and stimulating; it may be taken alone, or
+prepared with _croutons_, rice, vermicelli, or other Italian pastes, the
+same as beef-broth.
+
+The prairie-hens are served in _salmis_, and the beef is served as
+boiled beef.
+
+_Snail._--Clean and prepare twenty-five snails as directed. Put them in
+a saucepan, with a carrot, an onion, and a head of lettuce, all chopped,
+a small handful of chervil, a few leaves of sorrel, and a little salt;
+cover the whole with three pints of cold water. Boil slowly for about
+three hours, strain the broth, add a little butter to it, and it is
+ready for use.
+
+A tumblerful of this broth, taken warm before retiring, is certainly the
+best thing for a consumptive person.
+
+It is also excellent for a cough.
+
+Just salt the snails to taste, and eat them as they are, warm or cold.
+
+_Veal._--Procure two pounds of veal, from the neck or breast piece. Put
+the meat in a soup-kettle with two quarts of cold water and a little
+salt; set it on a good fire, and skim off the scum as soon as it gathers
+on the surface. When skimmed, add a head of lettuce, a leek (and a few
+stalks of chervil if handy); simmer for about three hours; strain, and
+use.
+
+This broth, as well as chicken and turkey broth, is excellent for
+convalescent persons.
+
+It may be made richer by putting a little more meat, according to taste;
+but generally the physician gives directions.
+
+_Another._--Soak a calf's liver in cold water for two hours, clean and
+wash it well; put it in a soup-kettle with about three pints of cold
+water, salt, boil gently for an hour and a half, and then add a handful
+of water-cresses; simmer fifteen minutes longer, strain and use.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as above in every particular, except that you use a
+handful of chervil instead of water-cresses.
+
+_Another._--Use three or four leeks instead of water-cresses, and
+proceed as above for every other particular.
+
+The last three especially make a very refreshing drink, and are a great
+relief in some cases of fever.
+
+_Vegetable Broth_ (called also _Bouillon Maigre_).--Scrape, clean, and
+slice three carrots and three turnips, peel three onions; fry the whole
+with a little butter till it turns rather yellow; and then add two
+plants of celery cut in pieces, three or four leeks, also cut in pieces;
+stir and fry the whole for about six minutes. When fried, add also one
+clove of garlic, salt, pepper, two cloves, two stalks of parsley, a
+little nutmeg grated; cover with about three quarts of water. Keep on a
+rather slow fire, skim off the scum carefully, and then simmer for about
+three hours. Strain, and use.
+
+This liquor is called vegetable broth, and is used instead of broth in
+time of Lent by persons who do not want to use beef-broth.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as above, and with the same vegetables till they are
+fried. Then add salt, pepper, two cloves of garlic, four stalks of
+parsley, three cloves, a little nutmeg grated, two quarts of white beans
+previously soaked in cold water for twenty-four hours, and five or six
+quarts of water. Skim it as above; simmer for about four hours; strain,
+and use.
+
+The beans, carrots, turnips, and leeks may be mashed through a colander
+and served in _purée_.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as above in every particular, with the exception
+that instead of using beans, you use peas, lentils, chestnuts, or samp.
+Peas and lentils are soaked in water only for four or five hours.
+Chestnuts must be shelled. Some other vegetables may be added, according
+to taste, and also according to the nature of the vegetables.
+
+_Another._--Clean and put in a bowl a head of lettuce, a handful of
+sorrel, same of chervil, same of purslane, and all chopped fine; pour
+over nearly a quart of boiling water, add two ounces of butter, cover
+the bowl with a wet towel; leave thus half an hour, and strain.
+
+When cold it makes a very refreshing drink, and is taken morning and
+evening with salt, to taste.
+
+It may also be taken warm.
+
+_A la Minute, or made quickly._--Cut four ounces of fat salt pork in
+dice and set it on the fire in a saucepan; stir, and when it is turning
+rather brown add one onion chopped, and half a middling-sized carrot,
+sliced; stir, and when they are partly fried, add also two pounds of
+lean beef cut in small dice; stir and fry for five minutes. Then pour in
+it about three pints of boiling water, salt, boil gently about forty
+minutes. Strain, and use.
+
+The beef may be served with the broth, or separately as an _entrée_,
+with a _piquante_, _ravigote_, or Robert sauce.
+
+_Bisque of Lobster._--Boil one or several lobsters as directed, and when
+cold split the tail in two, lengthwise, take the flesh out of the shell,
+remove the black vein that is on the back, take out the meat of the two
+large claws, and keep the flesh of the claws and tail for the following
+day's breakfast.
+
+For a _bisque_, nothing is thrown away but the head, stomach, and black
+vein. The head is the part immediately under the eyes; the stomach is a
+small, round pouch immediately behind the head; and the vein runs from
+the stomach to the end of the tail.
+
+Put all the rest, shell, small claws, all the matter found in the large
+shell (green, white, or yellow), in a mortar and pound well. Then put a
+tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, set it on the fire, and when the
+butter is melted, put what is in the mortar in, stir with a wooden spoon
+for about ten minutes, then add one pint of warm broth, stir for about
+twenty minutes, and strain. Put the liquor back on the fire with about
+four ounces of toasted bread, boil five minutes, and mash through a
+colander. Put the liquor back again on the fire, add one quart of broth,
+boil gently ten minutes, and turn into the soup-dish.
+
+While it is boiling, chop fine the coral-piece of the lobster or
+lobsters, knead it with a piece of butter of about the same bulk, then
+rub both through a wire sieve; put them in the soup-dish with _croutons_
+and about two or three ounces of the flesh of the lobster cut in very
+small dice. Turn the broth into the soup-dish also, and as directed
+above, and serve warm.
+
+When there is no coral in the lobster or lobsters, knead a hard-boiled
+yolk of egg with butter in its stead.
+
+Use one, two, three, or more lobsters, according to how much soup is
+wanted. It is not costly, because the flesh, or most of it, is kept to
+make a salad the next day, for breakfast or lunch.
+
+The salad might be served the same day at dinner, but lobster is a
+rather heavy food, and it is more prudent not to eat any late in the
+day.
+
+_Bisque of Lobster à la Colbert._--Make a _bisque_ as above, and while
+it is on the fire, poach as directed as many eggs as there will be
+persons at dinner; put them in the soup-dish instead of _croutons_, and
+serve as above.
+
+_Of Crabs._--Proceed as for a bisque of lobster in every particular,
+except that you use hard-shell crabs instead of lobster.
+
+_The same à la Colbert._--Add to the above as many poached eggs as you
+have guests.
+
+_Of Craw-fish (Bisque d'Ecrevisses)._--Our readers who have been in
+Europe will certainly remember the name of one of the best soups that
+can be made. It is made of craw-fish the same as with lobster, and is
+certainly more delicate than a _bisque_ of lobster or of crabs. (See
+Craw-fish for other particulars.)
+
+A _bisque_ of craw-fish may also be served _à la Colbert_ the same as a
+_bisque_ of lobster.
+
+_Bouillabaisse._--The real _bouillabaisse_ is made in Marseilles; they
+make an imitation of it in Bordeaux, and in many other parts of France
+and the Continent; but, like a Welsh rarebit prepared out of Wales, it
+is very inferior to the real one. However, we will give the receipt to
+make it here, and as good as possible with the fish that can be
+procured.
+
+Put a gill of sweet-oil in a tin saucepan and set it on a sharp fire;
+when hot, add two onions and two cloves of garlic sliced; stir so as to
+partly fry them, and then take from the fire. Put also in the pan three
+pounds of fish, such as haddock, halibut, turbot, white-fish--of all if
+possible, but at least of two kinds; also a dozen muscles, just blanched
+and taken from the shell (some put them whole, properly cleaned). The
+fish is cut in pieces about two inches long. Then add one gill of
+Catawba or Sauterne wine, a bay-leaf, two cloves, two slices of lemon,
+the juice of a tomato, salt, pepper, a pinch of saffron, cover with
+cold water, and set the pan back on a brisk fire. After about thirty
+minutes add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; boil ten minutes longer,
+and it is done.
+
+The pieces of fish are then placed on a dish and served.
+
+Put in a deep dish, and to be served at the same time, some slices of
+bread, over which you turn the sauce through a strainer.
+
+One slice of bread and one piece of fish is served to each person, also
+some sauce.
+
+It is put in two different dishes, to avoid breaking the pieces of fish.
+
+There are over a hundred ways of making a _bouillabaisse_; the above is
+one of the best.
+
+There are also about as many ways of spelling the same.
+
+A _bouillabaisse_ is served as a soup.
+
+
+  POTAGES.
+
+_A la Colbert._--Scrape carrots and turnips and cut them in small dice
+or with a vegetable spoon; add green peas and string-beans, if handy,
+the beans cut in pieces; set them on the fire in a pan with cold water
+and salt; boil gently till done, and drain. Put them back on the fire,
+covered with warm broth, salt to taste, boil gently about two or three
+minutes, and turn into the soup-dish, in which you have put as many
+poached eggs as there are or will be persons at table. A poached egg
+with soup is served to every person. Proportions of broth and vegetables
+according to taste.
+
+_Julienne._--Scrape two carrots and two turnips and cut them in pieces
+about an inch and a half long; cut slices lengthwise about one-eighth of
+an inch thick, then cut again across, so as to make square strips. Put
+them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter, three tablespoonfuls
+of cabbage chopped fine, and half a middling-sized onion, also chopped;
+set on the fire and stir till about half fried. Add broth to make it as
+you wish, thin or thick; boil gently till done; salt to taste, skim off
+the fat, and serve. It takes about two hours.
+
+_Julienne with Rice._--Boil two ounces of rice in water and a little
+salt, till about three-quarters done; drain and put in the julienne
+after having added the broth; finish as above.
+
+_Julienne with Barley._--Boil barley till done; add it to the _julienne_
+at the same time the broth is added, and serve as the above.
+
+_Julienne aux Croutons._--Put some _croutons_ in the soup-dish, and when
+the _julienne_ is done, pour it over them, and serve.
+
+_Brunoise._--Put an ounce of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when
+melted, add one carrot, one turnip, a little celery, all cut in dice;
+stir till they turn yellow, then add about a quart of broth, a
+middling-sized leek cut in pieces, a few leaves of lettuce and of
+sorrel, if handy, and a pinch of sugar. Simmer about two hours; skim off
+the fat; add a few drops of burnt sugar to color.
+
+Have _croutons_ in the soup-dish, turn the potage over them, and serve.
+
+_Brunoise with Rice._--Proceed as above, except that you add from two to
+four ounces of boiled rice to the potage ten minutes before taking from
+the fire. Serve without croutons.
+
+_Another._--Use boiled barley instead of boiled rice.
+
+_A la Monaco._--Put some thin slices of stale bread in the soup-dish,
+sprinkle pulverized sugar and orange-rind grated all over. Pour boiling
+milk over; cover the dish for five minutes, and serve.
+
+_A la Régence._--Put about two dozen _quenelles_ made with chicken into
+the soup-dish with half a pint of boiled green peas; turn boiling
+_consommé_ over, and serve warm.
+
+_A la Royale._--Make a custard with a dozen yolks of eggs, about the
+same volume of good cream, season with sugar, salt, and a little nutmeg;
+cook, and when perfectly cold, cut it in slices and again cut in fancy
+shapes with paste-cutters or with a knife; place it in the soup-dish,
+pour boiling consommé gently over, and serve warm.
+
+_Potage Printanier_ (called also _Jardinière_ and _à la Paysanne_).--It
+is a potage _julienne_, to which is added the top or eatable part of six
+asparagus, six turnip-rooted red radishes, and two or three
+tablespoonfuls of green peas. They are fried, boiled, and served with
+the other vegetables.
+
+_Velouté._--Put yolks of eggs in the soup-dish and beat them a little
+with cold or lukewarm broth; then pour boiling broth over them, little
+by little, stirring the while, and serve warm.
+
+It is made thin or thick, according to taste.
+
+_With Arrow-root._--Set broth in a saucepan on the fire, and as soon as
+it boils, sprinkle some arrow-root into it, stirring the while with a
+wooden spoon; boil gently for about half an hour, stirring now and then
+the while, and serve warm, adding salt to taste.
+
+Milk or _consommé_ may be used instead of broth.
+
+If you use milk, add a very little salt and sugar, to taste.
+
+The proportion of arrow-root to a certain quantity of broth is according
+to taste; it can be made thick or thin.
+
+_With Corn-starch._--Proceed as for arrow-root.
+
+_With Bread._--This is the simplest of all. Dry some slices of bread,
+either stale or fresh, in the oven, place them in the soup-dish, pour
+boiling broth over them, cover the dish for two or three minutes, and
+serve.
+
+_With Fecula._--Proceed as for arrow-root. Being finer, it does not
+require more than about twelve or fifteen minutes.
+
+_With Barley._--Wash the barley in cold water, then drop it in boiling
+broth, little by little, stirring the while; when in, keep simmering
+till perfectly done, which you ascertain easily by tasting; add then
+salt to taste, a pinch of sugar, and serve warm.
+
+It must be stirred occasionally while on the fire.
+
+_With Gruel_ (_French Gruau_).--It is made as with arrow-root.
+
+_With Indian Meal._--Proceed as with arrow-root.
+
+_With Sago._--Sago must be boiled gently about an hour; but for the
+rest, proceed as with arrow-root in every particular.
+
+_With Semoule._--With _semoule_ it is the same as with arrow-root,
+except that it is boiled only about fifteen minutes.
+
+_With Tapioca._--Tapioca is prepared like arrow-root, but must be boiled
+about forty-five minutes.
+
+All the above, like arrow-root, may be prepared with _consommé_, or with
+milk, as well as with broth.
+
+_With Giblets._--Throw the giblets in boiling water and a little salt,
+boil for ten minutes, take off and drain. Drop them in broth, boil
+gently till done, and turn the whole into the soup dish, in which you
+have some leeks, boiled and cut in pieces. Serve warm.
+
+Some _croutons_ may be added, and chervil chopped fine, just before
+turning into the soup-dish; or they may be placed in the soup-dish
+before pouring in the broth.
+
+_With Mackerel._--Clean, prepare, and cut in pieces about one inch and a
+half long, a mackerel weighing about one pound and a half; fry it with
+two ounces of butter till it turns rather brown, then cover with nearly
+a quart of water; add a few slices of carrot, same of turnip, a small
+onion, two or three stalks of parsley, salt, pepper, a clove of garlic,
+and a stalk of celery if handy; boil slowly for about an hour; mash
+gently through a colander, put what has passed through the colander back
+on the fire, add a little butter, give one more boil, turn into the soup
+dish over _croutons_, and serve.
+
+_With new Carrots._--Take small, young carrots, clean and wash them,
+then blanch them for about five minutes. Set them on the fire, cover
+with broth or _consommé_; boil gently till done, and serve.
+
+_Another._--With carrots and peas. Proceed as above till the carrots are
+half done, then add blanched green peas; finish the cooking, and serve.
+
+_Another._--Make as the above, but using one or two heads of
+cabbage-lettuce, blanched for two minutes, instead of green peas.
+
+_Fancy Potage._--Take twelve very small rolls; cut off one end and
+remove all the soft part of it; fill them with _quenelles_ of chicken;
+replace the piece cut off as well as possible; place them in the
+soup-dish; pour boiling _consommé_ or good broth over them; cover the
+dish for ten minutes, and serve warm.
+
+_With Vermicelli._--Drop the vermicelli in boiling water, and in which
+you have put a little salt; boil ten minutes, drain, drop again in cold
+water, drain again and put it in boiling broth; boil ten minutes; add
+salt to taste, and serve.
+
+_With Macaroni._--Proceed as for vermicelli in every particular, except
+that it takes twice as long to cook.
+
+_With Macaroni and Cheese._--Proceed as for the above, and when done,
+put grated cheese in the soup-dish, turn the macaroni over it, and
+serve.
+
+_With Italian Pastes._--No matter of what shape are the pastes, proceed
+as for vermicelli; the only difference is in the time of cooking, which
+depends on the size.
+
+_Consommé_ may be used instead of broth. If milk is used, sugar must be
+added.
+
+_With Macaroni à la Corinne._--Set two quarts of cold water on the fire,
+with an ounce of salt, and two ounces of butter; at the first boil, drop
+into it four ounces of macaroni; boil five minutes, and drain.
+Immediately drop the macaroni in boiling _consommé_, and boil gently
+till done. Drain it again and place a layer of it in the soup-dish, over
+the macaroni; place a thin layer of Parmesan cheese grated; then a layer
+of _macédoine_ of vegetables; then again, a layer of macaroni, one of
+cheese, etc.; pour _consommé_ to taste on the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_With Macaroni à la Médici_ (also called _à la Napolitaine_).--Proceed
+as for macaroni _à la Corinne_ in every particular, with the exception
+that you put also in the soup-dish a layer of _quenelles_ of chicken
+over that of _macédoine_ of vegetables, and serve in the same way.
+
+The _quenelles_ are boiled till done, in broth in which you put a few
+sprigs of mignonette.
+
+_Another._--Add to the above about a gill of thick tomato-sauce, just
+before pouring the _consommé_ over the macaroni, etc.
+
+_Macaroni à la Romulus._--Prepare eight ounces of macaroni as directed
+for macaroni _à la Corinne_; place a layer of it in the soup-dish; then
+over it a layer of _quenelles_ of chicken; over the _quenelles_, a thin
+layer of grated Parmesan cheese; then a layer of thin slices of salt
+beef tongue, boiled and skimmed; over the latter a layer of sweetbreads
+boiled in broth and cut in thin slices also; and lastly a layer of thin
+slices of boiled flounders. Several layers of each of the above may be
+placed in the soup dish, in the same order; then boiling _consommé_ is
+poured over the whole; the dish is covered, put in a warm place for ten
+minutes, and served.
+
+Although this dish is a regular potage, and served as such, still many
+Italians make a meal of it.
+
+_With Macaroni à La Rossini._--Proceed as for macaroni _à la Corinne_
+above, with two exceptions: first, that you add a layer of _quenelles_
+of partridge; and second, that you use _consommé_ of partridge.
+
+_With Macaroni à la St. Pierre._--Proceed also as for potage macaroni _à
+la Corinne_ as far as placing a layer of macaroni in the soup-dish; then
+put over it a layer of boiled soft roe of fish; over which put a thin
+layer of grated Parmesan cheese; then a layer of _quenelles_ of fish;
+another layer of macaroni; over it, a layer of boiled thin slices of
+salmon; macaroni again, etc. Pour boiling _consommé_ over the whole, and
+serve.
+
+Although bearing the name of Saint Pierre (St. Peter), the above dish
+has not been devised by the saint; but, like all the above, save that _à
+la Corinne_, it has been invented by monks.
+
+_With Nouilles._--Set broth on the fire in a saucepan, and at the first
+boiling take the _nouilles_ from the water with a skimmer and put in the
+broth, stir occasionally and boil gently till done. The proportions are
+according to taste. The more broth used for a certain quantity of
+_nouilles_ the thinner the soup will be, and _vice versa_. Salt to
+taste, and serve.
+
+_With Potatoes._--Cut about half a pint of potatoes with a vegetable
+spoon (it is understood half a pint when cut, the rest being used to
+make mashed potatoes), and blanch them for three minutes, drain and put
+them in boiling broth; boil gently till about half done, add then two or
+three tablespoonfuls of green peas; finish the cooking; and just before
+serving add a pinch of sugar, salt to taste, turn into the soup-dish,
+and serve with or without croutons.
+
+_With Quenelles._--Drop _quenelles_ in broth; boil gently till done, and
+serve.
+
+The proportion according to taste. Half a dozen _quenelles_ for each
+person, and about half a pint of broth, make a good proportion.
+
+_With Rice._--Put boiled rice in the soup-dish, turn boiling broth over
+it, and serve warm.
+
+_With Turnips._--When clean, cut the turnips in slices, drop them in
+boiling water, add a little salt, boil for five minutes, and drain. Set
+them on the fire in a saucepan, cover them with milk, and boil gently
+till done. Mash them through a colander, put them back on the fire with
+milk, butter, a little sugar and salt; stir and boil gently a few
+minutes; then add a yolk of egg for two turnips, stir in also two or
+three tablespoonfuls of cream; stir, but do not boil; put some
+_croutons_ in the soup-dish, turn the turnips over, and serve.
+
+_Purée of Split Peas._--The proportions vary according to taste; the
+more peas that are used with a certain quantity of broth, the thicker
+the potage will be, and _vice versa_.
+
+Soak one pint of split peas in cold water over night and drain. Put them
+in a saucepan with a few slices of carrot, same of turnip, same of onion
+and salt. Cover with cold water, set on the fire and boil till done.
+Drain, and then mash through a colander. Put back on the fire with warm
+broth to taste--that is, to make the potage thin or thick, season with
+salt or pepper; boil gently for five minutes, stirring the while; turn
+into the soup-dish over _croutons_, and serve warm. It may be served
+without _croutons_.
+
+_Purée of Green Peas._--It is sometimes called _à la Chantilly_, or _à
+la Française_. Put cold water and a little salt on the fire, and at the
+first boiling throw the peas in; if they are very tender, leave them in
+only a few seconds; if large and rather hard, boil one or two minutes;
+drain, mash them through a colander, and finish as the above.
+
+_Purée of Dry Beans._--White and dry beans have several names, but no
+matter what kind, they are prepared alike. If you are not sure that the
+beans are new, soak them in cold water for about twenty-four hours, and
+drain. Cook, mash, and serve them the same as split peas.
+
+_Purée of Lentils._--Wash the lentils in cold water and proceed as for
+split peas for the rest.
+
+_Purée of Peas._--Proceed as for split peas.
+
+_With Lima Beans._--Proceed as with green peas.
+
+_With Potatoes._--Steam potatoes, then peel and mash them through a
+colander. Put them back on the fire with broth, butter, and salt to
+taste; stir, boil a few minutes, and serve with _croutons_. Water or
+milk may be used instead of broth.
+
+_With Pumpkins._--Peel, take away the seed and cut the pumpkin in small
+pieces; put them in a stewpan with water just enough to cover them, a
+little salt and white pepper, set on the fire and take off when cooked;
+throw away the water, mash and strain the pumpkin, put it back in the
+stewpan, cover with milk, add a little sugar, set it again on the fire,
+and take off at the first boiling; pour a little of it on _croutons_ in
+the soup-dish, and keep covered in a warm place for ten minutes; then
+pour also the remainder in, and serve.
+
+_Another._--Prepare as above, throw the pieces in boiling water with a
+little salt for five minutes, mash and drain; put butter in a stewpan,
+set it on the fire; when melted put the pumpkin in, stir about five
+minutes; have ready in your soup-dish some slices of bread fried in
+butter, and dusted with sugar, pour on them some boiling milk, keep
+covered in a warm place two or three minutes; then turn the pumpkin on,
+at the same time mixing the whole gently, and serve.
+
+_With Squash._--It is made as with pumpkin.
+
+_With Asparagus._--Proceed as for green peas.
+
+_With Jerusalem Artichokes._--It is made like that of potatoes.
+
+_With Carrots._--When made with young carrots, it is called potage
+_purée Crécy_, or _à la Crécy_. Add broth to taste to a _purée_ of
+carrots, turn into the soup-dish over _croutons_, and serve.
+
+_With colored Beans._--When made with colored beans, it is called _à la
+Condé_. Proceed as with beans.
+
+The Prince of Condé devised this potage, and besides cooking the beans
+in broth, he used to put in one or two partridges also, to give, as he
+used to say, "a good taste to the beans."
+
+_With Cauliflowers._--Make a _purée_ of cauliflowers, to which you add
+broth to taste, and serve with _croutons_.
+
+_With Chestnuts._--Add broth and _croutons_ to a _purée_ of chestnuts,
+and serve warm.
+
+_With Turnips._--It is made as with carrots.
+
+_With Wheat._--Cut ears of wheat when full, but not ripe, and put them
+away to dry. Shell the wheat; wash it in cold water, put it in a
+saucepan, cover it with broth and boil gently till done. Mash through a
+colander, put back on the fire with a little butter; add broth if too
+thick, stir now and then for about fifteen minutes; take from the fire,
+add two or three yolks of eggs beaten with a little cream and a pinch of
+sugar; mix them well with the rest, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sweet Corn._--Proceed as with wheat in every particular. It makes
+a healthy and excellent potage.
+
+Water may be used instead of broth, but it is not as nutritive.
+
+_With Swallows' Nests, or Chinese Soup._--The nests are made a
+mucilaginous substance of, and built by the species of swallows called
+_Hirundo esculenta_; it would require several pages to describe them,
+together with their compound material, and would be out of place in a
+receipt book. Suffice it to say, that they sell for $100 a pound in
+London and Paris (gold of course), and the cheapest potage for one
+person costs about three dollars.
+
+Soak about four ounces of it in cold water for ten hours, drain and
+clean. Put it in a saucepan, cover well with chicken-broth, place the
+saucepan in boiling water for about two hours, add salt to taste, and
+then drain again. Place the nests in the soup-dish, pour boiling
+_consommé_ over them, and serve warm.
+
+The Chinese are said to use very rich _consommé_ of chicken to prepare
+them.
+
+_With Tomatoes and Rice._--Blanch half a dozen tomatoes, and skin them.
+Put them in a saucepan with a quart of broth, season with an onion
+sliced, three or four sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, half a dozen
+pepper-corns, a bay-leaf, two cloves, two cloves of garlic; salt and
+pepper. Boil gently till reduced to about two-thirds, then mash gently
+through a colander. It is understood by mashing gently, to mash so that
+all the liquid part shall pass through the colander, and the seeds and
+spices shall be retained in it and thrown away.
+
+While the tomatoes are on the fire boiling, set four ounces of rice on
+the fire with cold water and salt, and boil it till tender. Drain the
+rice, put it in a saucepan with the tomato-juice after being mashed, set
+the saucepan on the fire, add one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of
+sugar, both according to taste; to make the potage thin or thick, boil
+gently fifteen minutes, turn into the soup-dish, and serve warm.
+
+The same may be done with canned tomatoes; in that case, set a can of
+tomatoes on the fire with the same seasonings, and proceed exactly as
+for the above in every other particular.
+
+_The same with Croutons._--Fry some _croutons_ with a little butter, put
+them in the soup-dish; turn the potage, or rather the same mixture as
+above, over them; cover the soup-dish for two or three minutes, and
+serve.
+
+_With Tomatoes and Croutons only._--Fry the _croutons_ and put them in
+the soup-dish; turn the tomatoes only over them, after being prepared as
+above; cover the soup-dish for two or three minutes, and serve.
+
+_Purée à la Reine._--Procure a rather old chicken and cut it in pieces
+as for fricassee; set it on the fire in a saucepan with about a quart of
+cold water, salt, and boil gently about one hour. Then add about four
+ounces of rice, washed in cold water, continue boiling until the chicken
+is overdone and tender. Take the pieces of chicken from the pan, scrape
+the flesh off the bones; cut the white flesh (the flesh that is on both
+sides of the breast-bone) in dice, and put it in the soup-dish; chop
+fine all the other flesh, and then mash it through a sieve or strainer,
+together with the rice. If it be rather too thick to mash through,
+moisten it with broth. A large iron spoon is the best utensil to mash
+through with. Then set the rice and flesh back on the fire in a saucepan
+with broth to taste, stir and add immediately from two to four ounces of
+butter, a gill of cream, or, if not handy, a gill of milk. Keep stirring
+on a slow fire for five or six minutes; salt to taste, turn into the
+soup-dish, and serve.
+
+There is no danger of curdling if kept on a slow fire and not allowed to
+boil.
+
+_The same with Broth._--To make the potage richer, cook the chicken and
+rice in broth instead of water, and proceed as above for the rest.
+
+_The same with consommé._--The chicken and rice may also be cooked in
+_consommé_, and when mashed through the sieve, add _consommé_ also
+instead of broth, and you have an exceedingly rich soup. This is
+excellent for persons having throat diseases; it is easily swallowed,
+and very nutritious.
+
+_The same à la Française._--The potage _purée à la française_ is the
+same as that à la reine, with the addition of _quenelles_ of chicken.
+
+_The same à la Princesse._--Add to that _à la reine_, the white flesh of
+a roasted chicken, cut in dice, and put in the soup-dish.
+
+Purée of Game.--Proceed as for potage _purée à la reine_, with the
+exception that you use prairie-hen, instead of chicken.
+
+
+  SOUPS.
+
+_Maigre, or Vegetable Soup._--Proceed as for _julienne_ in every
+particular, except that water is used instead of broth. Four ounces of
+butter may be used instead or two.
+
+_Beef and Mutton Soup._--Take three pounds of beef and two pounds of
+breast of mutton; put both pieces in a crockery kettle with four quarts
+of cold water, salt, and pepper, set on a slow fire; skim carefully,
+then add half a carrot, two turnips, two onions with one clove stuck in
+each, two stalks of celery, two leeks, one sprig of parsley, and one
+clove of garlic. Simmer four or five hours; dish the meat with carrots,
+turnips, and leeks around, to be served after the soup if you choose;
+strain the broth, skim the fat off, put back on the fire, give one boil;
+have _croutons_ in the soup-dish, pour over them, and serve.
+
+_Mock Turtle._--Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the
+fire, when melted, add a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when turning
+brown, add three pints of broth (either beef-broth or broth made by
+boiling a calf's head, according to taste); boil five minutes then add a
+liquor glass of brandy or rum, from one to three glasses of Madeira,
+Port, or Sherry wine, about four ounces of calf's-head (the skin only)
+cut in dice, mushrooms or truffles, or both, also cut in dice; boil five
+minutes. While it is boiling, cut two hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon
+in dice and put them in the soup-dish; turn the broth over, and serve.
+
+Made with beef broth it is certainly richer than when made with
+calf's-head broth, the latter is gelatinous but less nourishing than the
+former.
+
+_Mock Turtle with consommé._--Use _consommé_ instead of broth, and you
+have as rich a soup as can be made.
+
+Mock turtle is an English soup, very rich and very good.
+
+_Au Chasseur (Hunter's or Sportsman's Soup)._--A potage _au chasseur_ is
+always made with game, such as rabbit, prairie-hen, grouse, venison,
+wild turkey, wild pigeon, etc., but never with aquatic birds. It might
+be made with quail, but that bird is really too delicate to make soup
+with. A whole bird or animal is never used, but the bones and trimmings
+only. After having cut off the fleshy parts, the bones are cracked and
+used to make the potage.
+
+Take the bones of two prairie-hens after having cut off the flesh on
+both sides of the breast-bone, also the legs; cut the bones in pieces
+about half an inch long and set them on the fire with half an ounce of
+butter, stir for two or three minutes, cover with broth, or game broth,
+and boil gently till well cooked, or about two hours.
+
+Put in another pan, and set it on the fire at the same time as the
+above, half a head of cabbage, one carrot, one turnip, and one onion,
+all cut fine; about half a pound of lean salt pork; cover with cold
+water, and boil gently for about two hours also.
+
+In case the water or broth should boil away, add a little more.
+
+After having boiled both vegetables and bones about two hours, take off
+the salt pork from the pan in which the vegetables are, and turn what
+you have in the other pan over the vegetables, through a strainer; add
+some broth if it is too thick; boil ten minutes, and serve.
+
+Proceed as above with the bones and trimmings of other birds.
+
+_Turtle or Terrapin._--Cut the turtle in dice, throw it in boiling water
+for two or three minutes, and drain; put it in a stewpan with onions and
+ham, also cut in dice; season with thyme, parsley, bay-leaf, salt,
+pepper, and a wine-glass of Madeira wine or of good brandy; wet with
+_Espagnole_ sauce or with _consommé_, set on a good fire, boil about
+half an hour. Ten minutes before taking from the fire, chop the eggs of
+the turtle, after having boiled them, and put them in a stewpan; if the
+turtle has none, chop and use hard-boiled eggs instead. When done, throw
+away parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, turn into bowls, add a little chopped
+chervil, and a quarter of a rind of lemon, also chopped; the latter is
+enough for six persons. Serve warm.
+
+It may be strained before putting it in bowls, according to taste.
+
+Turtle-steaks are prepared like beef-steaks.
+
+_With Rice and Milk._--Wash half a pound of rice in cold water. Set it
+on the fire with about one pint of milk, boil gently till done, filling
+with more milk, so as to keep the rice always covered. When cooked, add
+a little butter, milk according to taste, sugar or salt, or both, and
+serve. It will not take more than two quarts of milk.
+
+The French name for the above is _riz au lait_.
+
+_With Okra._--Okra or gumbo is little known here; yet it is good in
+pickles, used like cucumbers. It is much used for soup in the Southern
+States and in the West Indies.
+
+When green and tender, cut it very fine, cook it in broth, add a few
+tomatoes or tomato-sauce, according to taste; season with salt, pepper,
+and a pinch of sugar. When the tomatoes are cooked, serve warm.
+
+If dry, make a potage like that of tapioca, to which you add a little
+tomato-sauce and pepper.
+
+_With Onions._--Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and when melted
+add a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when turning rather yellow add
+also four or five onions sliced, stir till fried, when you add broth to
+taste (about one quart); boil gently about fifteen minutes; mash through
+a colander, put back on the fire; give one boil, salt and pepper to
+taste; turn into the soup-dish, in which you have some _croutons_, and
+serve.
+
+More or less onions may be used, according to taste.
+
+_Ox-Tail._--Chop the ox-tail in pieces about one inch long, set them on
+the fire, with about one ounce of butter, stir till it turns rather
+brown, and turn the fat off. Then add broth to taste, boil slowly till
+the pieces of tail are well done; add salt, pepper, and when handy add
+also three or four tomatoes whole; boil gently about fifteen minutes
+longer, turn into the soup-dish, and serve meat and all.
+
+Some add wine and liquor, the same as to the mock-turtle soup, but this
+is according to taste. The soup is excellent served without wine or
+liquor.
+
+When no tomatoes are used, it is not necessary to boil fifteen minutes
+longer, serve as soon as done.
+
+_Simple._--Use water instead of broth; season with carrot, turnip,
+parsley, leek, onions, cloves, salt, and pepper. Serve as the above.
+
+_Ox-cheek._--An ox-cheek soup is made the same as an ox-tail soup. The
+broth is made with ox-cheek instead of with other parts of the beef, and
+the potage or soup made with the broth. A little wine--Madeira, Port, or
+Sherry--is sometimes added, as for mock-turtle.
+
+_Sheep's-tail._--Proceed as for ox-tail in every particular.
+
+_Sheep's-neck._--Made the same as ox-cheek soup.
+
+_Sorrel._--Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, set it on the fire,
+and as soon as melted, put a good handful of sorrel in, stir for about
+one minute; then add a pint and a half of water, salt; boil two or three
+minutes; add again a little butter, give one boil and turn into the
+soup-dish in which you have _croutons_.
+
+As soon as taken from the fire, two, three, or four yolks of eggs,
+beaten with a tablespoonful of water, may be added.
+
+Broth may be used instead of water.
+
+_Oyster._--Put one quart of oysters with their liquor in a saucepan,
+with one pint of cold water, and set it on a good fire. Take from the
+fire at the first boil, and skim off the scum. Take the oysters from the
+pan with a skimmer and put them in the soup-dish. By keeping the
+soup-dish in a warm but not hot place, the oysters will not harden. Add
+to the juice in the saucepan a gill of white wine; give one boil, and
+take from the fire. Mix two ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of
+flour in a bowl; turn the juice and wine into the bowl also, and mix the
+whole well; put the mixture back in the saucepan, and set it on the
+fire, adding about half a dozen mushrooms, two or three stalks of
+parsley, and pepper to taste. Boil two minutes, turn over the oysters
+through a strainer, and serve.
+
+The mushrooms may also be turned into the soup-dish.
+
+_Cabbage._--Put in a kettle with two quarts and a half of water a pound
+of salted pork, same of breast of mutton; also, if handy, the remains of
+a roasted piece; set on a slow fire; skim before it boils, and then boil
+for about an hour and a half; strain, to remove the small bones, if any;
+put back in the kettle broth and meat, also one middling-sized cabbage,
+which you must have previously thrown in boiling water and boiled ten
+minutes; add then two carrots, one turnip, two leeks, half a head of
+celery, one onion with a clove stuck in it, a little salt and pepper,
+and about half a pound of sausage (not smoked); then boil gently about
+two hours, strain the broth, pour it on _croutons_ in the soup-dish, and
+serve.
+
+The pork, mutton, and sausage, with the cabbage around, may be served
+on a dish after the soup at a family dinner, or kept for breakfast the
+next day.
+
+_Cauliflower._--Clean and cut in small pieces three middling-sized
+cauliflowers. Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter, and set it on a
+moderate fire; when hot put the cauliflowers in; stir now and then till
+it turns brown, then add a sprig of thyme, same of parsley, a bay-leaf,
+one onion with a clove stuck in it, salt, and white pepper; simmer
+gently till the whole is well cooked, throw away the onion, clove,
+thyme, and bay-leaf; mash well the cauliflowers, strain and put back on
+the fire with the broth; give one boil, pour on _croutons_, and serve.
+
+_Cheese._--Put four ounces of butter in a soup-kettle, with an onion
+chopped fine; set on a brisk fire, stir now and then till it has a
+yellow color, then sprinkle on it half a tablespoonful of flour, keep
+stirring till it turns brown; then add two quarts of water, salt, and
+pepper; boil about five minutes. Have prepared in the soup-dish the
+following: a thin layer of grated cheese, Gruyère or pine-apple cheese;
+on it a layer of thin slices of bread, then another of cheese, again
+another of bread, etc., three or four of each; strain, and pour the
+liquor in the kettle on the whole; keep in a warm place five minutes,
+and serve.
+
+_Milk._--Put a quart of milk in a tin saucepan and set it on the fire;
+when it begins to rise, sweeten it to taste; give one boil, pour on
+toasted bread, or on _croutons_, or on two ounces of boiled rice, and
+serve.
+
+Yolks of eggs may be stirred in, just before turning the milk into the
+soup-dish, and when taken from the fire.
+
+_Maigre_ (called _Soup aux Herbes_, _Herb-Broth_, etc.).--Wash, drain,
+and chop fine a handful of sorrel, a dozen sprigs of chervil, and half a
+head of lettuce; put an ounce of butter in a stewpan, set it on a good
+fire; when melted, put the sorrel, chervil, and lettuce in, add salt
+and pepper, stir till the whole is cooked; then cover with lukewarm
+water; boil three minutes, beat well three yolks of eggs with a
+tablespoonful of water, take from the fire and put the eggs in while
+stirring; pour immediately on _croutons_, and serve.
+
+_With Leeks._--Clean six leeks; cut them in pieces about half an inch
+long, then fry them with a little butter till turning rather yellow; add
+then about a pint and a half of water, boil gently till the leeks are
+perfectly cooked, salt to taste, and it is ready for use.
+
+This broth may be taken warm or cold.
+
+It is a demulcent, and at the same time the most refreshing drink that
+can be taken.
+
+_With Clams._--Wash and clean the clams well. Then put them in a
+saucepan with half a pint of water (say one quart of clams), set on the
+fire, and at the first boil, take off and drain. Put the pan back on the
+fire with two ounces of butter in it; when melted, fry a chopped onion
+in the butter, add then the liquor drained, a pint of water, salt,
+pepper, parsley chopped fine, and the clams; boil two minutes, add also
+a little butter, and when melted and mixed, turn over some _croutons_ in
+the soup-dish, and serve warm.
+
+_With Muscles._--Proceed as for clams in every particular.
+
+_Allemande, or German Soup._--Soak four ounces of pearl-barley in tepid
+water for eight or ten hours, and strain. Put it in a saucepan with one
+quart of broth, a piece of leek, one of celery, and boil gently about
+one hour and a half. While it is boiling, mix well together in a bowl
+one tablespoonful of flour and half a gill of broth, which turn into the
+saucepan, also grated nutmeg and sugar to taste; boil ten minutes
+longer, and serve.
+
+_Another, called à la Maria Theresa._--Proceed as for the above, except
+that you mix in a bowl six yolks of eggs with half a gill of broth, and
+no flour; and finish as in the preceding.
+
+_Another way._--Instead of using pearl-barley, use flour that you have
+dried in a bakepan till it turns yellow.
+
+_Indian, or Curry._--Put in a saucepan one ounce of butter and set it on
+the fire; when melted, fry in it two large onions, one carrot, and half
+a turnip, all sliced; also one leek, a stalk of celery, and four of
+parsley, all cut fine. When the whole is fried, cover with about one
+quart of broth, season with two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful
+of cayenne pepper, same of pimento, two stalks of thyme; boil gently
+about one hour and a quarter, and drain. Put the liquor back in the
+saucepan and add four ounces of boiled rice, a little saffron to color,
+simmer about fifteen minutes longer, and serve.
+
+This soup is good and healthy for southern countries, but is too highly
+spiced for this climate.
+
+_Polish, or Barscz._--Peel and clean fifteen or twenty red beets, split
+them in two or four lengthwise, and put them in an earthen vessel with a
+pail of water and about a pound of rye bread; cover the vessel as
+air-tight as possible, and set it in a warm place (about 80 degrees
+Fahr.) for about eight days. After that time the liquor is rather sour,
+then drain.
+
+Put in a saucepan four pounds of lean beef, one pound of smoked pork,
+half a pound of ham, four onions, two leeks, and about four quarts of
+the liquor made as above. Simmer till the whole is done; skim off the
+scum that may gather on the surface, and then strain.
+
+Roast till half done, three chickens, or one chicken and one rabbit, or
+one chicken and one duck; put them on the fire in a saucepan with the
+liquor strained from the beef, pork, etc., as described above. Boil
+gently about half an hour, strain the liquor again. Then cut the beef,
+smoked pork, and ham, in small dice, put the whole in the soup-dish,
+with the strained liquor, and serve warm, as soup.
+
+The chicken, or chicken and rabbit, or chicken and duck, are generally
+served separately, with some of the beets used to make the liquor, and
+with the addition of mushrooms, parsley, celery, onions, and sausages,
+raw or cooked, according to taste; and salt, pepper, and spices,
+according to taste also.
+
+The poorer classes make this soup with water instead of beet-juice, and
+very often with mutton instead of beef; but proceed as described above
+in every other particular.
+
+_Russian, or Uka._--The _uka_ is made in Russia with sterlets. It may be
+made here with the sturgeon of the lakes, or with salmon or trout.
+
+Cut the fish in pieces about two inches long, and put them in salt water
+for one hour, and drain. Cut in small pieces two roots of parsley and
+two of celery, throw them into boiling water five minutes and drain
+them. Then fry them with a little butter till they turn yellow, when add
+a gill of broth, and boil gently till it becomes rather thick. Put the
+pieces of fish in also, add salt and pepper, to taste, cover the whole
+with fish-broth, boil gently till the fish is cooked, and serve warm.
+
+Some _caviare_ may be added just before serving.
+
+_Another, or Tstchy._--Put four pounds of beef in a soup-kettle (the
+poorer classes always use mutton), with a chicken or a duck, half a
+pound of smoked pork, same of smoked sausages, four carrots, four
+cloves, twelve pepper-corns, salt, two leeks, two onions, four stalks of
+parsley, and one of celery; cover the whole with fish-broth, and set on
+a good fire. Skim off the scum carefully, and boil gently till the whole
+is done. As soon as either the chicken or duck, etc., is done, take it
+from the kettle. When the whole is cooked, drain.
+
+Put the liquor back in the kettle with a middling-sized head of cabbage
+cut in four, or about the same quantity of sour-krout, slices of carrots
+and onions, pearl-barley, _semoule_, or gruel; simmer about three hours,
+and it is done.
+
+It is served in two ways: first, all the meat and vegetables are cut in
+small pieces and served with the broth as soup; second, the broth is
+served with the vegetables cut up, and the meat is served after and
+separately, as a _relevé_.
+
+Nothing is thrown away but the pepper-corns and cloves.
+
+_Spanish, or Olla Podrida._--Put four ounces of lean and fat salt pork
+into a saucepan and set it on a good fire; when partly fried, add half a
+pound of beef, same of mutton, same of veal (occasionally a chicken or
+partridge is added also), and four ounces of ham. Just cover the whole
+with cold water, and skim carefully as soon as the scum comes on the
+surface. When skimmed, add a gill of dry peas, previously soaked in
+water for an hour, half a small head of cabbage, pimento to taste, one
+carrot, one turnip, two leeks, three or four stalks of celery, same of
+parsley, two of thyme, two cloves, two onions, two cloves of garlic, ten
+pepper-corns, and some mace; fill up with water so that the whole is
+just covered, and simmer for about five hours.
+
+In case the water should simmer away too much, add a little more.
+
+When done, dish the pork, beef, mutton, veal, ham, and chicken. Put the
+peas, cabbage, carrots, turnips, leeks, celery, and onions on another
+dish.
+
+Strain the liquor, pour it on _croutons_ in the soup-dish, and serve the
+three dishes at the same time.
+
+The Spanish peasantry and the lower classes in cities, serve the whole
+in the same dish, and generally omit the beef and veal. The better class
+serve the soup first, and then the meat and vegetables afterward.
+
+_Another._--Chop very fine two onions, one cucumber peeled and seeded, a
+little pimento, two cloves of garlic, four sprigs of parsley, same of
+chervil, and mix the whole in a bowl with the juice of four tomatoes,
+and to which add two or three tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs. Then
+season with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard, and water to taste, and
+serve.
+
+The Spanish call it a cool and refreshing soup.
+
+
+
+
+  SAUCES.
+
+
+There is no good cooking possible without good sauces. Many excellent
+pieces of meat, etc., are spoiled by being served with a poor sauce.
+
+Let every one bear in mind that water is no substitute for broth; that
+vinegar or water is no substitute for wine, etc.
+
+There is no place where the old proverb can be better applied than in
+the kitchen, "Waste not, spare not."
+
+The _French_, _Italians_, _Spaniards_, and _Germans_, use broth and wine
+in their cooking, and do not spend as much as the _Americans_ for their
+food; they could not afford it; but they waste not, neither do they lose
+any thing good through carelessness or prejudice.
+
+Good sauces are not as difficult to make as is generally believed.
+
+This general belief comes from the fact that many, after having partaken
+of a certain dish somewhere, and liking it much, ask of their own cook
+to prepare the same.
+
+The cook, most probably, has never heard of it, but nevertheless
+prepares a dish which is hardly eatable, and is to the other what a
+crab-apple is to a raspberry.
+
+The most important thing in making a sauce is for the cook to put his or
+her whole attention and care to it.
+
+Most sauces must be stirred continually while on the fire, and
+especially white sauces, such as _Béchamel_, _Béchamel_ with cream or
+cream sauce, and white sauce.
+
+It is necessary to stir all sauces now and then, to prevent the forming
+of a kind of skin on the surface.
+
+The onions, shallots, garlics, and vinegar, used in sharp sauces, may be
+prepared as described for _piquante_ sauce.
+
+Sauces can always be made to suit the taste. A thousand can be made as
+well as a hundred, by merely adding or subtracting one or more of the
+compounds, or by proceeding differently. An idea of what can be done in
+that line can be formed by reading our directions for Supreme Sauce.
+
+
+  HOW TO MAKE A SAUCE THICKER WHEN IT IS TOO THIN, AND THINNER WHEN TOO
+    THICK.
+
+Take two fresh eggs, break them gently, and separate the white part from
+the yolk; be careful to have the yolk free from any white (there is in
+every yolk a little white spot, which you cannot detach without using a
+fork, knife, or spoon); mix well the two yolks with two or three
+tablespoonfuls of the sauce that is too thin, and a piece of butter the
+size of a pigeon's egg; then take the sauce from the fire, pour the
+mixture in it, little by little, stirring all the time; when the whole
+is in, put back on the fire for three or four minutes, but do not allow
+it to boil; take away and use. When too thick, add broth.
+
+_Allemande._--Chop fine and fry in butter four or five mushrooms; then
+add a little flour, and four or five tablespoonfuls of broth; reduce it
+to a sauce; put a piece of butter the size of an egg in it, also a sprig
+of white parsley chopped fine, one of thyme, a clove, a bay-leaf, a
+clove of garlic, a little nutmeg grated fine, the juice of a quarter of
+a lemon, and three well-beaten yolks of eggs, boil two or three minutes,
+and use. If found too thick, add a little broth.
+
+_Anchovy Butter._--Strain essence of anchovy through a fine sieve, and
+knead it with fresh butter, or salt butter that you have kneaded in cold
+water previously, and it is ready for use.
+
+_Anchovy Sauce._--Use butter without salt; if salty, work it in cold
+water. Set three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and melt it
+slowly; then add about two teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovy; stir a
+few seconds, and it is done. More anchovy may be used if liked. It is
+served in a boat.
+
+_Apple._--Peel, quarter, and core four or six apples, and set them on
+the fire in a small saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir now
+and then till done; when done, mash through a fine colander; add a
+little sugar, and it is ready for use.
+
+If found too thin, keep on the fire for some time. If too thick, add a
+little water.
+
+_Cranberry._--Put a quart of cranberries in a saucepan and set it on a
+rather slow fire; stir occasionally till done; mash gently through a
+fine colander, or through a strainer; add a little sugar, and use.
+
+_Currant._--Proceed as for a cranberry-sauce in every particular, except
+that it must be mashed through a strainer or through a towel.
+
+_Peach._--Stone about a quart of peaches, and proceed as for apple-sauce
+for the rest.
+
+_Raspberry._--Made the same as currant-sauce.
+
+The five sauces above are served with roasted game.
+
+_Béchamel._--Mix cold, and well together, in a tin saucepan, two ounces
+of butter and a tablespoonful of flour; then add a pint of milk, and
+set on the fire; stir continually, and when turning rather thick, take
+off; beat a yolk of egg in a cup with a teaspoonful of water; turn it
+into the sauce, and mix well again; salt and white pepper to taste, and
+it is ready for use.
+
+_Blonde._--Proceed exactly as for white sauce, using broth instead of
+water.
+
+_Bread._--Take the soft part of half a ten-cent loaf of bread; break it
+in pieces, which put in a saucepan with a quart of good fresh milk, six
+pepper-corns chopped fine, and a little salt; set on the fire and boil
+five or six minutes, stirring the while; take off, mash through a
+strainer or a sieve, and it is ready for use.
+
+A bread-sauce is really a very poor sauce. Its insipidity is concealed
+by the great amount of pepper that it contains.
+
+_Brown Butter, or Beurre Noir._--This is butter set on the fire in a
+frying-pan and left till it turns perfectly brown, then a few sprigs of
+parsley are dropped in it, fried half a minute, and it is ready for use.
+
+It is sometimes used with vinegar, but in that case it is described in
+the receipts.
+
+_Caper._--Mix well together, cold, in a small saucepan, two ounces of
+butter and a tablespoonful of flour; then add a pint of broth, set on
+the fire, stir, and when thickening, add capers to taste, whole or
+chopped; give another boil, take from the fire, add salt, the yolk of an
+egg beaten with a teaspoonful of water, mix and serve.
+
+_Celery._--Proceed as for a caper-sauce in every particular except that
+you add three or four stalks of celery chopped fine, and then boil ten
+or twelve minutes, and strain it before using.
+
+_Colbert._--Set half a pint of meat gravy on the fire, in a small
+saucepan with half a dozen mushrooms and one or two truffles chopped
+fine (the latter, if handy), boil gently five minutes, add one ounce of
+butter, stir, and when the butter is melted and mixed with the rest, it
+is ready for use.
+
+_Coulis of Fish_, _or Fish Gravy_, is one and the same thing.
+
+Boil hard four eggs, and put the yolks in a mortar. Take a pike weighing
+about two pounds, clean, prepare, and broil it as directed; split it
+open, take all the bones and skin off, put the flesh in the mortar with
+the yolks, and pound the whole, and knead it with a little butter. Place
+a little butter, of the size of a walnut, in a stewpan, and set it on a
+good fire; when melted, fry in it till of a golden color, two carrots
+and two onions cut in slices; after that add also a piece of bay-leaf,
+two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a little isinglass, the eggs and
+fish, and cover with water; simmer gently about one hour and a half, and
+strain.
+
+If found too thin after it is strained, set it back on the fire, add a
+little more isinglass, and simmer fifteen minutes longer.
+
+_Coulis of Veal._--Place in a stewpan about one pound of veal, fillet or
+knuckle, with four ounces of bacon, not smoked, and cut fine; also a
+carrot cut fine, a little pepper, and grated nutmeg; set on a slow fire,
+cover well; half an hour after augment the fire, and as soon as you see
+the meat sticking to the pan, subdue it, leave it so ten minutes, then
+take from the fire, put the bacon, veal, and carrot on a dish; put
+butter about the size of an egg in the pan; when melted, sprinkle in it
+a teaspoonful of flour, stir with a wooden spoon, then put the meat back
+into it. Cover with warm broth and set on a slow fire for about two
+hours; take off, throw in it a few drops of cold water, skim off the
+fat, strain, and use.
+
+_Cream._--A cream-sauce is a _Béchamel_ made with cream instead of milk.
+
+It is often called _à la crème_, its French name.
+
+_Cucumber._--Proceed as for caper-sauce, using pickled cucumbers,
+chopped fine, instead of capers.
+
+_Egg._--Proceed as for caper-sauce in every particular, except that you
+use two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, instead of capers.
+
+_Diplomat._--Make a cream-sauce with one pint of cream. When made, put
+in it nearly half a pound of lobster butter, stir, and when the whole is
+well mixed, add also about a tablespoonful of essence of anchovy and mix
+again; pepper to taste, and use.
+
+It is a rich sauce, used with boiled fish and baked or roasted meat.
+
+_Espagnole._--This sauce is very seldom made in the kitchen of a family,
+except of a large and wealthy family, being a rather expensive one. In
+the kitchen of a family, gravy or even broth is used in its stead; but,
+when preparing an extra dinner, it should be made, and a little of it
+used in all the brown sauces, either for meat, fish, or vegetables.
+
+Spread about half a pound of butter in the bottom of a stewpan, lay in
+it lean ham and veal, partridge, wild rabbit, pheasant, or fowl of any
+kind, about four ounces of each, a small carrot cut in dice, one onion
+with a clove stuck in it, half a turnip, and a sprig of thyme; cover the
+pan and set it on the fire; let it simmer till reduced to a jelly, then
+mix in it two tablespoonfuls of flour, a wine-glass of white wine, cover
+with broth, add salt, pepper, a clove of garlic, a sprig of parsley, one
+clove, a bay-leaf, and two mushrooms cut in pieces; simmer from three
+to four hours, skim off the scum as soon as it comes on the surface;
+when done, take it from the fire, throw a few drops of cold water in,
+and skim off the fat, then strain and use.
+
+It will keep for some time if kept air-tight in a pot or bottle, and in
+a cool, dry place.
+
+_Essence of Spinage, or Spinach._--Soak in water, drain, dry, and pound
+well two or three handfuls of spinach, put them in a coarse towel and
+press the juice out, put it in a pan on a moderate fire, and when nearly
+boiling, take it off, strain, and add to it a little fine-crushed sugar,
+stir a little, and bottle when cold; it may be kept for months; use it
+where directed.
+
+_Sauce for every kind of Fish, boiled, baked, or roasted_.--Boil hard
+two eggs, take the yolks and pound them well, and place them in a bowl.
+Have boiling water on the fire, and put in it cives, burnet, chervil,
+tarragon, and parsley, four or five sprigs of each; boil five minutes,
+take off, drain and pound them well, then strain them on the eggs, add
+two tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar, two of French mustard, salt,
+pepper, and four tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, which you pour in, little
+by little, at the same time mixing the whole well with a boxwood spoon,
+and it is ready for use.
+
+_Fines Herbes._--Chop very fine a small handful of parsley, shallots,
+and chives; and proceed as for making a caper-sauce, except that you use
+the chopped spices instead of capers.
+
+_Génoise._--Put two ounces of butter in a small saucepan, set it on the
+fire, and when melted, mix in it a tablespoonful of flour; stir for one
+minute, add one-fourth of a carrot, sliced, stir now and then, and when
+nearly fried, add also a pint of broth, half a pint of claret wine, a
+small onion, and a clove of garlic, chopped; two cloves, a bay-leaf, two
+stalks of parsley, one of thyme, salt, and pepper; boil gently about one
+hour and forty minutes, and strain. If it boils away, add a little
+broth. Put it back on the fire with about half an ounce of butter, boil
+gently for about ten minutes, and it is ready for use.
+
+This sauce is excellent with any kind of boiled fish, but especially
+with trout, pike, and pickerel.
+
+A trout served with a _génoise_ sauce is considered a _recherché_ dish.
+
+_Hollandaise._--Set one ounce of butter on the fire in a saucepan, and
+when melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when turning
+rather yellow, add half a pint of broth, stir for one minute; add also
+four sprigs of parsley and four mushrooms chopped fine (one truffle
+sliced, if handy, would be excellent), a liquor-glass of Madeira, Port,
+or Sherry wine; boil gently ten minutes, stirring the while, and serve.
+
+_Indian._--This sauce may be used with fish, in summer and in southern
+places.
+
+Have a stewpan on a moderate fire, with two ounces of butter in it; when
+melted, add a teaspoonful of pimento, salt, a pinch of saffron, and one
+of grated nutmeg, also one and a half tablespoonfuls of flour--the
+latter you sprinkle in, little by little, stirring the while; cover with
+broth, boil twelve minutes and strain; afterward add two ounces of
+butter, stir a little, and use.
+
+_Italian._--Tie together two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, and a
+bay-leaf; put them in a stewpan with two or three mushrooms cut fine,
+one shallot, a small onion with a clove stuck in it, a piece of butter
+the size of a walnut, and half a pint of white wine; set on a gentle
+fire, and reduce it half; then add about one tablespoonful of olive-oil
+and half a pint of broth, simmer forty minutes, strain, and use.
+
+_Lobster._--Chop very fine or pound some of the flesh of a boiled
+lobster. Take a white or blonde sauce, and instead of taking it from the
+fire when done, turn the chopped flesh into it with a little piece of
+butter; stir, give one boil, and it is ready for use.
+
+_Craw-fish, prawn, shrimp,_ and _crab_ sauces are made the same as
+_lobster_ sauce.
+
+_Madeira._--Mix cold in a saucepan two ounces of butter with a
+tablespoonful of flour, set on the fire and stir till it turns rather
+brown; when add nearly a pint of gravy, stir till it is becoming thick;
+then add half a pint of Madeira wine, little by little, stirring the
+while, give one boil only, salt to taste, and then strain and use.
+
+_Champagne_ sauce is made in the same way, except that it must be poured
+in faster and used immediately.
+
+All wine sauces may be made in the same way. We mean wine sauces for
+meat or fish.
+
+_Maître d'Hotel._--This sauce is sometimes called _butter_ _maître
+d'hotel_. Mix and knead well together in a bowl, two ounces of butter, a
+tablespoonful of chopped parsley and the juice of a half lemon; salt to
+taste and use.
+
+Pepper, grated nutmeg, and chopped chives, may be added if liked. Using
+vinegar instead of lemon-juice makes an inferior sauce.
+
+_Mayonnaise._--In warm weather it is necessary to put the bowl on ice
+while making it. Put one or two yolks of fresh eggs in a bowl with a
+small pinch of salt; commence stirring with a box-wood spoon, or, what
+is still better, a stone or marble pestle. Stir without interruption,
+always in the same way and describing a circle. It is more easily done
+if the bowl is held steady. After having stirred about half a minute,
+commence pouring the oil in, drop by drop, and as soon as you see that
+it is thickening pretty well, add also a few drops of vinegar and same
+of lemon-juice; then continue with the oil in the same way. Every time
+that it becomes too thick, add a little vinegar, but continue stirring.
+You put as much oil as you please; two bottles of oil might be used and
+it would still be thick. Spread it on chicken salad, etc.
+
+_Tartar._--Chop some capers and shallots very fine, mix them well with a
+_mayonnaise_ when made, and you have a Tartar sauce.
+
+_Mushroom._--Proceed exactly as for caper-sauce, using chopped mushrooms
+instead of capers.
+
+_Piquante._--Take a small saucepan and set it on the fire with two
+ounces of butter in it, and when melted add a small onion chopped; stir,
+and when nearly fried add a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when
+turning rather brown, add half a pint of broth, salt, pepper, a pickled
+cucumber chopped, four stalks of parsley, also chopped, and mustard;
+boil gently about ten minutes, add a teaspoonful of vinegar; give one
+boil, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Set the chopped onion on the fire with one gill of
+vinegar, and boil gently till the vinegar is entirely absorbed, or
+boiled away. Make the same sauce as above in another pan, omitting the
+onion and vinegar, and when done mix the two together, and it is ready
+for use.
+
+_Another._--Add three shallots, chopped fine, to the chopped onion, and
+proceed as above for the rest.
+
+_Parisienne._--Make a bunch of seasonings with six sprigs of parsley,
+one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and two cloves; put it in a saucepan with half
+a pint of chopped truffles, and about a pint of white wine; set on the
+fire and boil gently till about half reduced, strain, put back on the
+fire, turn into it, little by little, stirring the while, nearly a pint
+of gravy or _consommé_; continue stirring now and then till it begins to
+turn rather thick, add pepper to taste, strain, and use with fish and
+game.
+
+_Poivrade._--Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan, and
+set it on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in it, little by little, about
+a tablespoonful of flour, stirring the while; when of a proper
+thickness, and of a brownish color, take from the fire, add a
+tablespoonful of vinegar, a wine-glass of claret wine, a glass of broth,
+a shallot cut in two, a middling-sized onion, also cut in two, with a
+clove stuck in each piece, a sprig of thyme, one of parsley, a bay-leaf,
+a clove of garlic, a little salt, and two pepper-corns; boil about
+twenty minutes, strain and use.
+
+The vinegar, shallot, and onion may be boiled separately as for a
+_piquante_ sauce.
+
+_Polonaise._--Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
+when melted add two or three tablespoonfuls of the soft part of bread,
+bruised in a coarse towel; stir for about one minute, salt to taste, and
+use.
+
+Like the _Parisienne_, it is used with game.
+
+_Poulette._--Set a stewpan on the fire with a piece of butter the size
+of an egg in it; when melted, sprinkle in it a tablespoonful of flour,
+stirring the while; pour gently in it also, and little by little, a
+glass of warm water, and a wine-glass of white wine, or broth instead of
+both, salt, pepper, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a
+chopped shallot, a little nutmeg, four small white onions, and two or
+three mushrooms (the latter cut fine and fried in butter before using
+them); simmer till the whole is well cooked, strain and use.
+
+In case it should be found too light, add when done, and before taking
+from the fire, two or three yolks of eggs, and the juice of a lemon.
+
+_Princesse._--Make a cream-sauce with one pint of cream and set it on a
+moderate fire; immediately turn into it, stirring the while, about half
+a pint of reduced, good meat gravy; when thoroughly mixed, add two or
+three ounces of butter, stir for a couple of minutes longer, strain and
+use immediately.
+
+It is a very rich sauce, used with boiled fish and roasted or baked
+meat.
+
+_Provençale._--Chop fine two or three mushrooms, and two shallots; put
+the whole in a stewpan with a clove of garlic, and two tablespoonfuls of
+olive-oil; set on a moderate fire, and leave till half fried; then
+sprinkle in it half a teaspoonful of flour, stirring the while; add also
+half a pint of white wine, and as much broth, and two small onions, two
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, half a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper;
+simmer about half an hour, take from the fire, and a few minutes after
+skim off the fat; take out the garlic, onions, parsley, thyme, and
+bay-leaf, and it is then ready for immediate use.
+
+_Ravigote._--Chop fine, and in equal proportion, two tablespoonfuls of
+chervil, tarragon, and pepper-grass, also, in equal proportion, one
+teaspoonful of burnet and table celery; place the whole in a stewpan
+with salt and pepper, cover with broth, set on the fire, and boil twenty
+minutes; after which take from the fire, and strain. Mix two ounces of
+butter with flour enough to make a paste, put it with the sauce on the
+fire, add a tablespoonful of cider vinegar; simmer till of a proper
+thickness, and use.
+
+_Robert._--Put about four ounces of butter in a stewpan, set it on a
+moderate fire; when melted, sprinkle in it about a tablespoonful of
+flour, stirring the while; when of a brownish color, add three small
+onions chopped fine, salt, and pepper; stir, and leave on the fire till
+the whole is turning brown, then add a glass of broth, boil about thirty
+minutes, and strain; mix well in a cup one teaspoonful of vinegar, one
+of sugar, and one of mustard, which mix again with the sauce, and it is
+ready to be used.
+
+_Rémolade._--Chop very fine a small handful of chervil, tarragon, and
+burnet, in equal proportion, and put them in a saucer or boat; add salt,
+pepper, nutmeg grated, and mustard, to taste; also one or two
+hard-boiled eggs cut in dice; mix the whole gently and well; then add
+the vinegar, and lastly the oil. The two latter ones are put in little
+by little, stirring gently the while. Serve as it is.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as for the above, except that you chop fine with the
+chervil, etc., some parsley, shallot, and garlic; the five spices in
+equal proportion.
+
+When finished, add also a pinch of sugar.
+
+_Roux._--Set a small saucepan on a moderate fire, with two ounces of
+butter in it; sprinkle into it, when melted, a tablespoonful of flour;
+stir, and when turning brown, use.
+
+_Shallot._--Chop the shallots, and proceed as for caper-sauce, using
+them instead of capers.
+
+_Soubise._--Put about half a pint of good meat gravy in a saucepan; set
+it on the fire, and when boiling add half a gill of Madeira wine; when
+well mixed, add also two or three tablespoonfuls of _purée_ of white
+onions, salt, and pepper; boil five minutes, stirring now and then, and
+it is made.
+
+A _soubise_ is an excellent sauce for baked or boiled fish, also for
+roasted meat.
+
+_Supreme._--This sauce is made in several ways. We will give here the
+three principal ones:
+
+1. Make an _Allemande_ sauce; and when done, add to it two ounces of
+butter and half a gill of _consommé_; stir and mix, and place on a brisk
+fire to start it boiling at once; take it from the fire as soon as it
+becomes thick; then add a few drops of lemon-juice, and use.
+
+2. Make a _roux_; add to it about half a pint of chicken gravy; stir or
+boil five or six minutes; then add two ounces of butter, the juice of a
+lemon, a pinch of parsley chopped fine; give one boil, and use.
+
+3. This is made like No. 2, except that you use an _Allemande_ sauce
+instead of a _roux_, and besides the pint of chicken gravy, etc., you
+add also half a gill of white wine.
+
+It is used especially with roasted chicken and game.
+
+_Tomato._--If you use fresh tomatoes, blanch them first; if preserved,
+use them as they are in the can. Put one pint of tomatoes in a saucepan
+with a small onion and a clove of garlic sliced; also two stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, one clove, six pepper-corns, and
+salt; boil gently till reduced about one-third, when mash gently through
+a strainer or sieve; all the tomato-seed and seasonings must remain in
+the strainer; put back on the fire, with a little piece of butter; give
+one boil, and it is done.
+
+_Truffle._--This sauce is made like a caper-sauce, using chopped or
+sliced truffles instead of capers.
+
+_Velouté._--This and gravy is nearly the same thing. It is gravy made as
+directed for gravy, with the addition of a dozen mushrooms chopped fine;
+and is used for sauces, like gravy, to make sauces richer than with
+broth.
+
+_Vinaigrette._--Put salt and pepper in a saucer (and mustard, if it is
+to be used with butcher's meat; but with fish, chicken, or birds, it is
+really too strong; it neutralizes the delicate flavor of the object),
+and pour vinegar over, little by little, beating with a fork at the
+same time; then pour the oil, also little by little, and while beating;
+a little chopped parsley is also added; and serve with cold meat, fish,
+or vegetables.
+
+It is quickly made, is good, and makes an excellent dish for breakfast,
+served as we said above.
+
+_White._--Put two ounces of butter in a small saucepan and set it on the
+fire, stir a little, and as soon as melted, remove on a rather slow
+fire; add a tablespoonful of flour, stir continually till thoroughly
+mixed (two or three minutes); then add again about a pint of boiling
+water, pouring gently, and stirring the while, take off when it begins
+to turn thick; add a yolk of egg beaten with a teaspoonful of cold
+water, mix it well with the rest, and it is ready for use; after having
+mixed, also salt and white pepper to taste.
+
+_Oyster._--Add to a white sauce some oysters blanched; then stir and mix
+with the whole the juice of half a lemon.
+
+_Muscle._--Boil the muscles about one minute and make as oyster-sauce.
+
+
+  SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS.
+
+_Milk._--Put in a block-tin saucepan four tablespoonfuls of sugar, one
+of flour, four yolks of eggs, one pint of milk; essence to flavor, and
+mix the whole well; set on a good but not sharp fire, stir continually
+till it begins to become rather thick; take off, turn over the pudding,
+and serve.
+
+_Madeira._--Set a saucepan on the fire with one ounce of butter in it;
+as soon as melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir till it turns
+rather yellow, and add also one pint of water, four ounces of sugar, and
+a few drops of burnt sugar; boil gently, about twenty-five minutes; add
+nearly a gill of Madeira wine, boil again ten minutes, and serve in a
+boat.
+
+_Rum._--Proceed as for Madeira-sauce, except you use half a gill of rum
+instead of Madeira.
+
+_Brandy._--Proceed as for rum-sauce, using the same proportion of
+brandy.
+
+
+
+
+  FARCES AND GARNITURES,
+
+  CALLED ALSO GARNISH AND GARNISHING, USED TO DECORATE OR ORNAMENT DISHES.
+
+
+_With Bread._--Put in a tureen about a pound of the soft part of bread,
+and cover with broth; when it has absorbed the broth, place it in a
+stewpan, set it on a slow fire, and leave till it becomes a thick paste;
+stir now and then, then mix well with it three yolks of eggs, and it is
+ready for use.
+
+_With Cabbage._--Throw into boiling water a little salt and a
+middling-sized cabbage; boil it half an hour, take it from the kettle
+with a skimmer, throw it in cold water, and drain it, pressing it a
+little in the drainer to force the water out; cut off the stump, and
+chop the cabbage fine. Have in a stewpan on the fire, three or four
+ounces of fresh butter; put the cabbage in when the butter is half
+melted, sprinkling on while stirring a teaspoonful of flour; pour on it,
+little by little, some broth, stirring the while, and when it has a fine
+brownish color, wet with broth enough to boil it; season with salt, a
+little grated nutmeg, and four pepper-corns; boil gently till the sauce
+is thick enough, take away the pepper-corns, and use.
+
+_With Combs of Chicken._--Soak the combs over night in cold water, and
+then clean them well by wiping roughly with a coarse towel, wetted and
+salted; wash and drain them; put a dozen of them in a saucepan with two
+sweetbreads blanched, cover the whole with broth, and boil till done;
+then add salt, pepper, a few drops of lemon-juice, and it is ready for
+use.
+
+_With Cauliflowers._--Proceed as for cabbage in every particular, except
+that it does not require as long doing.
+
+With _Croutons._--Cut pieces of soft part of stale bread in different
+shapes, and fry them on both sides in butter or fat.
+
+For potage, they are cut in dice, but for decorating dishes, they are
+cut either round, square, oblong, or of a heart, star-like, half moon,
+butterfly, or flower shape, and about one-quarter of an inch thick. Take
+them off with a skimmer, and turn into a colander to drain.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The cut _d_ is used for potage, and _a_, _b_, _c_, etc., are used to
+decorate.
+
+_Duxelle._--Make a _fines-herbes_ sauce, and when ready to be used, add
+half a gill of gravy, and give one boil; add also two or three yolks of
+eggs, simmer one minute, and use warm.
+
+Mushrooms, whole or in slices, may be added at the same time the yolks
+of eggs are added.
+
+_With Eggs._--Mash and mix well together six hard-boiled yolks of eggs
+with three yolks not cooked, salt and pepper. Put the mixture in parts
+on the paste-board, which must be previously dusted with flour; roll
+each part and give it the shape of a small egg (a pigeon's egg or a
+little larger). When the whole is thus prepared, drop in boiling water,
+boil till cooked, and use to decorate meat or fish.
+
+_Financière._--A garniture _financière_ is the same as a garniture with
+combs of chicken, to which are added some mushrooms and truffles, both
+cut in slices.
+
+It is generally served with a roast chicken.
+
+_With Livers._--Geese livers are the best, being the fattest. Drop two
+geese livers in boiling water and a little salt, boil three minutes and
+drain. Put in a saucepan one gill of broth, same of white wine, Sauterne
+or Catawba, a tablespoonful of gravy, six pepper-corns, two or three
+stalks of parsley, salt, and the livers; set on the fire and boil gently
+for about twenty-five minutes. Take off the livers, boil a few minutes
+longer to thicken the sauce, turn it over the livers through a strainer,
+and it is ready.
+
+The same may be done with the livers of poultry or any other kind of
+birds; the seasonings are the same, and the proportion is according to
+the size or to the number of livers.
+
+Besides being used as garnishing, it may be served as a breakfast dish.
+
+_Macédoine._--Blanch a dozen of Brussels cabbages. Blanch also half a
+dozen asparagus cut in pieces about an inch long. Put four ounces of
+butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when melted put it into a gill of
+carrots, same of turnips, both cut with a vegetable spoon, also a dozen
+small onions; stir now and then till the whole is about half done, when
+add a little over a pint of broth and the Brussels cabbages; boil about
+ten minutes. Then add again the blanched asparagus, half a dozen
+mushrooms, broth just enough to cover the whole, simmer till every thing
+is done, salt and pepper to taste, a pinch of sugar and it is ready for
+use.
+
+Water may be used instead of broth, but is inferior.
+
+A _macédoine_ may be served with any meat--roasted, baked, or broiled.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Chop fine half a pint of fresh mushrooms and two
+tablespoonfuls of parsley. Set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of
+fat grated salt pork in it, as much butter, and as soon as the butter is
+melted put the mushrooms and parsley in; season with salt, pepper, a
+little grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pint of white wine; let boil
+gently till reduced to a jelly, and use.
+
+When done, three or four yolks of eggs may be mixed with it.
+
+_With Onions._--Put a dozen onions in a crockery saucepan and half cover
+them with broth. Cover the pan as well as possible, simmer till cooked,
+then add a teaspoonful of sugar, salt, simmer again for about ten
+minutes, basting now and then, and serve warm with beef, mutton, or
+venison.
+
+_Quenelles._--Chop fine one pound of fresh veal, half lean and half
+fat--the fat nearest the kidney is the best; then pound it well and mash
+it through a sieve. Mix two yolks of eggs with it, and season to taste
+with salt, pepper, nutmeg grated, and powdered cinnamon. Spread flour on
+the paste-board, put a teaspoonful of meat here and there; roll gently
+each part into small balls, using as little flour as possible. They may
+also be rolled of an olive shape. Throw the balls into boiling broth or
+boiling water at the first boiling, boil five minutes and drain. As soon
+as cold they are ready for use.
+
+_Boulettes_, _fricadelles_, _godiveau_, and _quenelles_ are one and the
+same thing.
+
+Whole eggs may be used instead of the yolks only, add also a few
+bread-crumbs. To the seasonings above some parsley chopped fine may be
+added.
+
+Make _quenelles_ with any kind of meat--butcher's meat, poultry, and
+game, also with fish well boned.
+
+To the lean meat add the same weight of fat veal, as above directed, or,
+in its stead, beef suet.
+
+Truffles or mushrooms, or both, may be added to the mixture, either of
+meat or of fish.
+
+_Quenelles_ are used for garnitures, etc. They may be fried instead of
+boiled.
+
+_Salpicon._--Cut in dice an equal quantity of each, and to weigh
+altogether about one pound and a half, calf sweetbreads, livers, or
+flesh of fowls, and ham--three kinds in all; also two mushrooms and two
+truffles; all must be nearly cooked in water beforehand. Put them in a
+stewpan, season with salt, pepper, a bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, an
+onion, a sprig of parsley, and one of thyme; cover with half a pint of
+broth, and as much of white wine; set on a slow fire; it must not boil,
+but simmer gently; stir now and then till the whole is well cooked; take
+out the bay-leaf, onion, garlic, parsley, and thyme. In case the sauce
+should not be thick enough, add a little fecula, stir, and leave awhile
+longer on the fire, and it is ready for use.
+
+_With Truffles._--Slice the truffles and put them in a saucepan with a
+pinch of sugar, broth and claret wine enough to cover them, half of
+each, simmer for about twenty minutes, add a little potato starch, boil
+gently till it begins to thicken, and use.
+
+_Lobster Butter._--Put the flesh of the two large claws of a boiled
+lobster with a little of the inside, about a tablespoonful, in a mortar
+and pound well. Add about the same volume of good butter and pound again
+till the whole is well mixed. It is then mashed through a fine sieve,
+and is ready for use. When the lobster has coral, it is pounded with the
+rest, and gives a fine color to the butter.
+
+If the lobster has no coral, a piece of the reddest part of the shell is
+pounded with the rest, when the butter is to be colored.
+
+This butter may be used instead of ordinary butter for fish-sauces, or
+for making a _maître d'hôtel_ for boiled fish, or for garnishing the
+same.
+
+To clarify it, just put the butter into a bowl when made, put the bowl
+in a boiling _bain-marie_ for about half an hour, take off and
+immediately turn it through a cloth into a bowl half full of cold water.
+The cloth must be rather twisted, to cause the butter to run through.
+When it is in the bowl, stir it till rather hard; work it in a ball, and
+wipe it dry.
+
+Thus clarified it is finer than when used merely mixed.
+
+The same butter may be made, and in the same way, with _craw-fish_,
+_prawns_, and _shrimps_.
+
+_Horse-radish Butter._--Grate some horse-radish and mix it well with
+about the same volume of butter, mash through a sieve, and it is ready
+for use.
+
+_Tarragon_ and _garlic_ butter are made as the above.
+
+If the butter be found too strong, use more butter and less of garlic,
+etc.
+
+_Ravigote Butter_ (called also _Beurre de Montpellier_).--Blanch the
+following spices: parsley, tarragon, chives, chervil--parsley and
+chervil in equal proportion and about half as much of the two others,
+about two handfuls altogether--drain dry and put them in a mortar with
+two anchovies boned, one shallot chopped and bruised in a coarse towel,
+half a dozen capers, a rather small piece of pickled cucumber, four
+ounces of butter, two hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and the juice of half a
+lemon. Pound the whole well together, then add a tablespoonful of
+essence of spinach, mix well, mash through a sieve, and use.
+
+This butter is excellent to decorate and to eat with cold fish. It is
+sometimes used with cold birds.
+
+_Hazel-nut Butter._--Pound some hazel-nuts or filberts and then mix
+throughly with good butter, mash through a sieve, and use as ordinary
+butter. The proportion according to taste. It is easily prepared, and is
+delicious.
+
+Do the same with _pea-nuts_, or any other nut.
+
+_Melted Butter._--Put butter in a crockery vessel and place it above a
+pan of water or some other liquid, heated but not boiling, so that the
+butter will melt slowly and gradually. Sometimes the butter may be
+wanted soft only, or what is called melted soft, or thoroughly melted.
+It is easy to obtain those different states above with heated liquor,
+and the butter, though melted, is more firm than when melted on the
+fire.
+
+_Scented Butter._--Whenever a certain flavor is desired with butter, put
+a piece of firm and good butter in a bowl with a few drops of essence,
+knead well, and then mash through a sieve.
+
+
+  PURÉES.
+
+_Purées_ are made with vegetables, but when the flesh or poultry or
+other birds is mashed through a sieve after being cooked, it is
+sometimes called a _purée_ also.
+
+The bones of a ham, after the flesh is disposed of, is the most
+excellent thing you can put with the vegetables to boil them in order to
+make _purées_.
+
+One-third of the bones of a middling-sized ham is enough for about a
+quart of vegetables.
+
+When you have no ham bones, use four ounces of good salt pork, as lean
+as possible; but never use smoked pork, it gives a disagreeable taste to
+the purée.
+
+_Of Dry Beans, white or colored, Kidney, Lima, or any other kind._--Dry
+beans must be soaked in cold water, or even in lukewarm water, when in a
+hurry. According to the nature of the beans, they must be soaked for
+from six to twenty-four hours.
+
+Soak a quart of beans as directed above; drain and put them in a
+saucepan with one-third of the bones of a ham, or about four ounces of
+salt pork; cover with cold water, season with a bay-leaf, a sprig of
+thyme, two of parsley, two middling-sized onions, with two cloves stuck
+in them, and a carrot cut in pieces; when the whole is well cooked,
+throw away thyme, bay-leaf, onions, and cloves; mash well through a
+colander all the rest except the bacon.
+
+While mashing them through the colander, wet them with some of the water
+in which they have boiled, else it would be difficult and long.
+
+When mashed, put them in a saucepan with a little broth or water, salt,
+and two ounces of butter; stir now and then till the butter is melted
+and thoroughly mixed with the rest, and it is ready for use. The
+quantity of broth or water is according to how thick or thin they are
+wanted. The salt pork is good to eat.
+
+_Of Lentils._--It is made in the same way as that of beans, except that
+they do not require to be soaked more than five or six hours in cold
+water.
+
+_Of Peas (dry or split)._--Proceed as for lentils in every particular.
+
+_Of Chestnuts._--Remove the skin of a quart of chestnuts and drop them
+in boiling water, with a little salt. As soon as the under skin comes
+off easily, take them from the fire, drain, drop them in cold water, and
+then remove the under or white skin; put them in a saucepan with about
+one quart of broth, set on the fire and boil gently till well done, and
+mash through a colander.
+
+Then put the chestnuts, and what is left of the broth, in a saucepan,
+set on the fire, stir, add a pinch of sugar and an ounce of butter; give
+one boil, and it is made.
+
+_Of Green Peas._--Wash a quart of green peas in cold water, and drain;
+put two quarts of cold water on the fire in a saucepan, with a little
+salt, and at the first boil throw the peas in, season with three or four
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, two onions, and two cloves, a carrot in
+slices, salt, and pepper; boil till tender. It may take only two
+minutes, or it may require half an hour, according to how tender the
+peas are.
+
+Mash through a colander, and finish like purée of beans, using either
+broth or water. With broth it is richer and better.
+
+_Of Lima Beans._--Proceed for green Limas as for green peas.
+
+_Of Sweet Corn._--It is made like that of green peas.
+
+_Of Asparagus._--Cut the eatable part of the asparagus in pieces, and
+proceed as for _purée_ of green peas.
+
+_Of Potatoes._--Steam a quart of potatoes, and then mash them well; put
+them in a saucepan with half a pint of milk, two ounces of butter, and
+salt; set on the fire, stir now and then, take off and use. It takes
+about fifteen minutes after being set back on the fire.
+
+_Another way._--Proceed as above, using broth or water instead of milk.
+
+_Of Jerusalem Artichokes._--Prepared as potatoes.
+
+_Of Carrots._--Clean well, and cut in slices, a dozen middling-sized
+carrots; put them in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and set on
+the fire; when about half fried, cover with broth or water; season with
+half a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, one of parsley, a small onion,
+and a clove stuck in it; when the whole is well cooked, throw away
+onion, clove, bay-leaf, and thyme, mash the rest through a colander;
+then put back on the fire, with a little butter; simmer for about two
+hours, stirring occasionally, and it is made.
+
+In case it should turn too thick, add broth or water.
+
+The longer they are simmered, the better the taste.
+
+_Of Turnips._--Proceed as with carrots in every particular.
+
+_Of Celery._--It is always made with turnip-rooted celery. Clean the
+celery well, wash and cut it in pieces, and prepare as _purée of
+carrots_, adding a teaspoonful of sugar.
+
+_Of Cauliflowers._--Separate the branches, and throw them in boiling
+water and salt; boil two minutes and drain. Put them on the fire with
+broth or water, enough just to cover them, two or three stalks of
+parsley, and salt to season.
+
+Boil gently till tender; remove the parsley; mash through a colander;
+put back on the fire with a little butter and white pepper, simmer about
+ten minutes, stirring now and then the while, and it is ready for use.
+
+Instead of butter, some cream may be added.
+
+_Of Pumpkin._--Made exactly the same as that of cauliflowers, after the
+pumpkin is peeled and cut in pieces.
+
+_Of Squash._--Same as pumpkin.
+
+_Of Spinach._--Clean the spinach, and cut off the stem; the leaf only is
+good; wash and drain it; put cold water and a little salt on the fire,
+and throw the spinach in at the first boil. When tender, drain and drop
+immediately in cold water; drain again, and then chop it very fine.
+After being chopped, it may be mashed through a sieve, to have it finer;
+put it back on the fire without any water at all, and when it gets
+rather dry, add a little flour; stir and mix; add again a little gravy
+or good broth; stir, then salt to taste, and it is ready for use.
+
+If the spinach is young and tender, it takes only two or three minutes
+boiling before chopping it.
+
+From the time it is put back on the fire, it takes about five or six
+minutes to finish it.
+
+_Of Sorrel._--Proceed as with spinach in every particular.
+
+_Of Mushrooms._--Clean well and cut in pieces a quart of fresh
+mushrooms; soak them in cold water, in which you have put the juice of a
+lemon; drain, and chop them fine. Put a stewpan on the fire, with a
+piece of butter the size of a duck's egg; when melted, put your
+mushrooms in; when half fried, add the juice of a lemon, finish frying,
+then cover with some roux-sauce; let simmer till it becomes rather
+thick, strain and use.
+
+_Of Onions._--Peel, quarter, and blanch for eight minutes, a dozen
+onions. Drain and put them in a saucepan with four or six ounces of
+butter, according to the size of the onions; set on a slow fire, stir
+now and then till well done; then season with salt, a little flour, stir
+for two minutes to cook the flour, and mix it thoroughly with the rest;
+take from the fire; add cream, little by little, stirring the while. It
+does not require much cream to make the _purée_ of a proper thickness.
+Mash through a sieve or fine colander, add a pinch of sugar, and it is
+ready for use.
+
+It makes an excellent _purée_, and is good served with nearly every kind
+of meat.
+
+Made with white onions, and properly mashed through a sieve, it looks
+like cream, and is almost as white as snow.
+
+
+
+
+  FISH.
+
+
+The Indians bleed the fish as soon as caught, because the flesh is
+firmer when cooked.
+
+The Dutch and the French bleed the cod, which accounts for the better
+quality and whiteness of their cod-fish.
+
+_To select._--To be good, fish must be fresh. It is fresh when the eyes
+are clear, the fins stiff, the gills red, hard to open, and without bad
+odor.
+
+_To clean and prepare for boiling._--The sooner fish is cleaned the
+better. Cut the belly open, take the inside out, wash well and wipe dry
+immediately with a clean towel, inside and out. Place the eggs or soft
+roes inside, and tie with twine. It is then ready to be boiled.
+
+If not cooked as soon as cleaned and prepared, keep it on ice.
+
+_To clean and prepare for baking, frying, roasting, and to cut in
+pieces, etc._--Scale the fish well, holding it by the head or tail; cut
+the belly open and take the inside out; trim off the fins, gills, and
+tail; wash well inside and out, and wipe dry immediately.
+
+Keep it on ice if not used immediately.
+
+_Same Family, or Kind._--We give only one receipt for all the fishes of
+the same family, or having the same kind of flesh, as they are cooked
+alike, and require the same spices.
+
+Almost every kind of fish is boiled, broiled, fried, or stewed. Some are
+better boiled than broiled, others better fried than stewed, etc. With
+few exceptions, any eatable fish may be cooked in these four ways. Few
+are roasted.
+
+_To know when cooked enough._--It is very difficult, if not entirely
+impossible, to tell how long it takes to cook fish, as it depends as
+much on the size, kind, or quality of the fish as on the fire; but as
+soon as the flesh comes off the bones easily, the fish is cooked; this
+is very easy to be ascertained with a knife.
+
+_To improve._--Clean the fish as for baking, etc., and lay it in a
+crockery vessel with the following seasonings under and upon it: parsley
+and onions chopped fine, salt, pepper, thyme, bay-leaves, and vinegar or
+oil; turn it over occasionally, and leave thus for two or three hours.
+
+_To bone._--Slit the fish on one side of the backbone and fins, from
+head to tail; then run the knife between the bones and the flesh so as
+to detach the whole side from the rest; do the same for the other side.
+
+For a flounder, or any other flat fish, slit right in the middle of both
+sides of the fish so as to make four instead of two pieces.
+
+The head, bones, and fins are not used at all, and are left in one
+piece.
+
+_To serve, when boiled._--The fish is placed on a napkin and on a dish
+or platter, surrounded with parsley, and the sauce served in a saucer.
+
+_To skin._--Take hold of the piece of fish by the smaller end, and with
+the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; run the knife between the
+flesh and skin, moving the knife to and fro as if you were sawing.
+Throw away the skin, and the fish is ready for cooking.
+
+If the skin were breaking, as it happens sometimes, take hold of it
+again, and proceed as before.
+
+_To decorate._--Fish may be decorated with jelly, but it is easier and
+more sightly with craw-fish. The skewers are stuck in the fish as they
+are in a _fillet of beef_.
+
+The craw-fish when boiled are red like the lobster, and, besides using
+them with skewers, some may be placed all around the fish; it is
+delicate eating as well as sightly. Skewers are never used with fish in
+_vinaigrette_, or when the fish is cut in pieces. The craw-fish has only
+to be boiled before using it for decorating fish.
+
+_Shrimps_ and _prawns_ are used the same as craw-fish.
+
+_Oysters_ are also used, raw or blanched; run the skewer through a large
+oyster or craw-fish, then through a slice of truffle; again through an
+oyster, truffle, etc.; through two, three, or more of each, according to
+the size of the skewer or of the fish.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Fish-kettle._--A fish-kettle must have a double bottom. It is more
+handy to take the fish off without breaking it, and there is no danger
+of having it spoiled while cooking. Fish-kettles are found in every
+house-furnishing store.
+
+_Baked._--Clean and prepare the fish, as directed for baking; put it in
+a baking-pan with salt, pepper, and butter spread all over it; just
+cover the bottom of the pan with water or broth; place a piece of
+buttered paper over it and bake. Baste two or three times; take off when
+done, and serve warm with a sauce.
+
+While the fish is baking you prepare the sauce, put it in a boat, and
+serve warm with the fish.
+
+A baked fish may be served with its gravy only, adding a few drops of
+lemon-juice or vinegar, or with any kind of sauce, according to taste.
+
+_Balls._--Fish-balls are often called _fish-cakes_ or _fish-croquettes_.
+They are generally made with cold fish, but it may be cooked especially
+to make balls.
+
+Fish, full of bones, like shad, is not fit to make balls; cod is the
+easiest.
+
+Commence by chopping the flesh very fine, then chop fine also a small
+piece of onion and fry it with butter (half a middling-sized onion with
+two ounces of butter are enough for half a pound of fish); when fried
+stir in it a tablespoonful of flour, and about half a minute after turn
+the fish in with about a gill of broth or water, salt, pepper, and a
+pinch of nutmeg; stir till it turns rather thick, which will take two or
+three minutes; take from the fire, mix two yolks of eggs with it; put
+back on the fire for about one minute, stirring the while; then add two
+or three mushrooms or one truffle, or both, chopped fine. Turn the
+mixture into a dish, spread it, and put it away to cool for two or three
+hours, or over night.
+
+Before cooking, mix the whole well, the upper part being more dry than
+that which is under; put it in parts on the paste-board, roll each part
+to the shape you wish, either round, oval, or flat; the paste-board must
+be dusted with bread-crumbs or flour to help in handling the mixture,
+then boil or fry, according to taste.
+
+It may also be baked in cakes.
+
+When fried, they may be dipped in beaten egg, rolled in bread-crumbs,
+and then fried in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.)
+
+_Boiled._--Clean and prepare the fish as directed, and put it in a
+fish-kettle; cover it with cold water (sea-water is the best); add the
+following seasonings to a pound of fish: two stalks of parsley, one of
+tarragon if handy, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and half a
+middling-sized onion sliced; salt if boiled in fresh water. Set on the
+fire, and, for a fish weighing two pounds or under, take off at the
+first boiling--it is done enough. For a fish weighing five pounds, boil
+five minutes, etc., that is, about one minute for each pound. If it were
+a thick slice of fish instead of a whole one, weighing two or three
+pounds, it should be boiled two or three minutes longer, etc., according
+to thickness.
+
+_Broiled._--Slit the fish on the back and clean it; salt and pepper it;
+have a little melted butter and spread it all over the fish, on both
+sides, with a brush, and broil it. (_See_ Broiling.)
+
+While the fish is broiling, prepare a _maître d'hotel_ sauce, spread it
+on the fish as soon as dished, and serve.
+
+It may also be served with anchovy butter.
+
+_Fried._--Any small fish of the size of a smelt, or smaller, is better
+fried than prepared in any other way.
+
+Clean and prepare the fish as directed, wipe it dry. Dip it in milk,
+place in a colander for five minutes, then roll in flour, and fry. It
+may also be fried just rolled in flour.
+
+_Another way._--When wiped dry, dip in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs,
+and fry.
+
+_Another._--When wiped dry, dip the fish in butter, and fry. Then the
+fish is dropped in hot fat (_see_ Frying), turned into a colander,
+salted, and served hot, with fried parsley around or in the middle,
+according to how the fish is arranged in the dish.
+
+Fry the following as above: _carp_, _tench_, _frost_, _bass_, _perch_,
+_black and blue fish_, _gold_, _loach_, _mullet_, _porgy_, _weak_,
+_flounder_, _pike_, _pickerel_, _smelt_, _sun_, _herring_, and
+_white-fish of the lakes_.
+
+_A la Orly._--If it is small fish, like the smelt, it is prepared whole;
+if the fish is larger, it must be boned and skinned, and cut in pieces
+about two inches long. Roll the fish, or pieces of fish, slightly in
+flour; dip it in beaten egg, and roll it again in bread-crumbs; then fry
+it in hot fat as above.
+
+When fried, serve it with a tomato-sauce.
+
+The fish may be served on a napkin in a dish, and the sauce in a boat or
+saucer.
+
+_Roasted._--The following fishes only are roasted: _eel_, _salmon_,
+_shad_, _pike_, _turbot_.
+
+Clean and prepare as directed, and then tie with twine. Spread salt,
+pepper, and melted butter (with a brush) all over the fish, and then
+envelop it in buttered paper; set on the spit and roast. Baste with a
+little melted butter, and remove the paper about five minutes before it
+is done.
+
+When on the dish the twine is cut off and removed, and it is served as
+hot as possible with the following sauces, to which tarragon is added in
+making them, if handy: _caper_, _Hollandaise_, _Mayonnaise_, _piquante_,
+_poivrade_, and _rémolade_. A roast fish is served after roast meat.
+
+_Another way._--Clean, and cut in slices half an inch thick, or leave
+entire, as it suits you; skin it well; lay it in a crockery vessel,
+spread over it some chopped parsley, grated nutmeg, salt, pepper, and
+two gills of white wine (this is for about three pounds), leave thus
+two hours; then take the fish only, envelop it in buttered paper, fix it
+on the spit before a good fire, baste with the wine and seasonings from
+the crockery dish, and when nearly done take the paper off; finish the
+cooking, basting the while, and serve with the drippings, to which you
+may add a little vinegar, sweet-oil, and mustard.
+
+If there is any left, you can serve it cold the next day with an
+oil-sauce.
+
+_Sauté._--Scale, clean, and prepare the fish as directed. For one pound
+of fish put about one ounce of butter in a frying-pan on the fire, and
+when melted put the fish in; fry it on both sides, and serve it with a
+_maître d'hotel_.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean and prepare as directed three pounds of fish, cut it in
+pieces about two inches long. Put in a fish-kettle four ounces of
+butter, kneaded with a teaspoonful of flour, and the same of chopped
+parsley, add two or three mushrooms cut in pieces, salt and pepper, then
+the fish and a glass of claret wine, or a wine-glass of vinegar; cover
+with water, set on a good fire, boil gently till cooked; dish the pieces
+of fish, strain the sauce on them, spread the pieces of mushrooms over,
+and serve.
+
+_Stuffed._--When cleansed, cut out the backbone from the head to within
+two inches of the tail, and fill its place with the following mixture:
+soak stale bread in cold water and then squeeze the water out; put one
+ounce of butter into a saucepan and set it on the fire; as soon as
+melted, fry in it one middle-sized onion, chopped fine; then add the
+bread; stir for two minutes, add also salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg,
+two or three tablespoonfuls of broth; stir again two or three minutes;
+take the pan from the fire, add a yolk of egg, put back on the fire for
+half a minute, stirring the while, take off again, add a teaspoonful of
+chopped parsley, and use. When full, tie the fish with twine; place it
+in a baking-pan, salt and pepper it; spread a little butter on it also;
+cover the bottom of the pan with cold water, bake and serve with its
+gravy.
+
+If there is not gravy enough, or if it has dried away, add a little
+broth a few minutes before taking from the oven.
+
+_Fish au Gratin._--Bone and skin the fish as directed. For a fish
+weighing about two pounds, spread one ounce of butter on a tin plate or
+baking-pan, spread over it half an onion, chopped; place the pieces of
+fish on them; add salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar or a
+wine-glass of white wine, and half an ounce of butter; spread over and
+bake.
+
+While it is baking, put in a small saucepan one ounce of butter, and set
+it on the fire; when melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir,
+and, when it is turning yellow, add also about one gill of broth, two
+tablespoonfuls of meat-gravy, the juice of the fish when baked (if the
+fish be not done when the time comes to put the juice in the pan, keep
+the pan in a warm place, and wait), salt, and pepper; boil gently about
+five minutes, stirring occasionally. Place the fish in a tin or silver
+dish, spread three or four mushrooms sliced over it; turn the sauce
+gently over the whole, dust with bread-crumbs; put half an ounce of
+butter, in four or five pieces, on the whole; bake ten or twelve
+minutes, and serve in the dish in which it is.
+
+_In Matelote._--Every kind of fish is good in _matelote_, but the
+following are the best: _bass_, _black-fish_, _blue-fish_, _carp_,
+_eel_, _perch_, _pickerel_, _pike_, _porgy_, _tench_, _trout_, and
+_craw-fish_.
+
+A _matelote_ may be made of eels alone, but it is better with eels and
+one, two, or three other kinds of fish.
+
+Eels tasting of mud are not good. There is a sure way of taking away the
+muddy taste, but it is a rather expensive one. Boil them a few minutes
+in claret wine and a little salt, before using them.
+
+Clean, and prepare as directed, one pound of eels, one pound of pike,
+and one pound of trout, or one pound of any of the fishes named
+above--in all, three pounds. Cut the fish in pieces about two inches
+long, fry it slightly with a little butter, and put it away for awhile.
+
+Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire; when
+melted, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir, and, when the flour is
+turning rather brown, add also about a quart of broth, a pint of claret,
+a bunch of seasonings, composed of half a dozen stalks of parsley, two
+of thyme, two bay-leaves, and two cloves, also salt, pepper, two cloves
+of garlic, and six button onions; boil gently for about half an hour.
+Then put the fish in with from six to twelve mushrooms, broth enough to
+cover the whole, if the broth and wine already in do not cover it; boil
+gently for about half an hour, or till the fish is cooked, tossing the
+saucepan now and then; dish the fish; place the mushrooms and onions all
+over; sprinkle the sauce over it through a strainer, and serve warm.
+_Croutons_ may be served around.
+
+_Another, or Marinière._--Prepare and cut the fish as for the above, but
+instead of frying it put it in a saucepan, into which you have put
+previously about half a dozen sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two
+bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, twelve small onions, two cloves, salt,
+and pepper; when the fish is placed over the above seasonings, cover
+entirely with claret wine. Set the saucepan on a sharp fire, and, as
+soon as it boils, throw into it a glass of French brandy, set it on
+fire, and let it burn. It will not burn very long, but enough to give a
+good taste to it. As soon as it stops burning, knead four ounces of
+butter with a tablespoonful of flour, and put it in the pan; toss the
+pan gently now and then till done. It takes about forty minutes with a
+good fire.
+
+When done, dish the fish carefully, place the mushrooms all over it, the
+onions all around, strain the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_Croutons_ may also be served with the rest; put around the fish one
+_crouton_, then an onion, and so on, all around.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as for the above, in every particular, except that
+you cover the fish and seasonings with broth and white wine, half of
+each, instead of claret. Serve in the same way.
+
+A _matelote_ may be made three or four days in advance, and then warmed
+in boiling water (_bain-marie_) just before serving it.
+
+Many prefer a _matelote_ made four days before eating it, and prepared
+in the following way: When made, put it away to cool as quickly as
+possible; twenty-four hours after that, warm it in boiling water; cool,
+and warm again in the same way once a day. If the sauce becomes thick,
+add a little broth. Serve warm.
+
+_Vinaigrette_.--Boil a fish as directed, take it from the kettle and let
+cool; then dish it. Chop fine the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs; do the
+same with the two whites; chop also a handful of parsley. Put a string
+of the yolks on both sides of the fish, then along that a string of the
+whites, and along these a string of the parsley; along the parsley, and
+about half an inch apart, a string of capers. Cut a lemon in sixteen
+slices, and in the following way: first split the lemon in two
+lengthwise, then split again each half in two and lengthwise also; by
+splitting four times, you have sixteen pieces, resembling somewhat the
+carpels of oranges. After the first splitting, hold the piece of lemon
+with the nail of the left thumb, the rind downward, and always split
+lengthwise and in the middle. Place eight pieces on each side of the
+dish and along the capers, and serve cold, with stalks of parsley on top
+of the fish, and also two or three in its mouth.
+
+Serve with it a vinaigrette, in a saucer or boat.
+
+The following fishes, _bass_, _black and blue fish_, _carp_, _cat_,
+_dory_, _drum_, _gar_, _gurnard_, _herring_, _king_, _lump_, _mackerel_,
+_parr_, _perch_, _pickerel_, _pike_, _pilot_, _porgy_, _roach_, _rock_,
+_scup_, _sucker_, _sword_, _tautog_, _tench_, _trout_, _troutlet_,
+_weak_, and _weaver_, after being baked or boiled as directed, may be
+served with the following sauces: _anchovy_, _caper_, _génevoise_,
+_génoise_, _au gratin_, _Hollandaise_, _Italienne_, _matelote_,
+_tomato_, _Tartar_, and _vinaigrette_.
+
+It would be perfectly useless to have a receipt for each fish, since the
+preparation is the same.
+
+The same fishes are also prepared _au court bouillon_. Clean and prepare
+about three pounds of fish, as directed for baking, etc. It may be one
+fish or several, according to size. Place the fish in a fish-kettle,
+just cover it with cold water and a gill of vinegar, or with half water
+and half white wine; season with three or four sprigs of parsley, one of
+thyme, a bay-leaf, one clove, one onion, half a carrot (in slices), two
+cloves of garlic, salt, pepper, and a little tarragon, if handy. Set on
+the fire, and boil gently till done. Dish the fish, and serve it warm
+with a caper or anchovy sauce in a boat, or with currant jelly.
+
+_The same--à la Bretonne._--Slit the fish on the back, as for broiling,
+and clean it. When wiped dry, lay it in a bake-pan in which there is a
+little melted butter, the inside of the fish under; place thus on a
+good fire, turn over when done on one side, and, when cooked, spread
+some _maître d'hôtel_ on it, and serve warm.
+
+_The same--aux fines herbes._--Clean and prepare as for baking, etc.,
+and also improve it as directed. Envelop the fish in buttered paper, and
+also the seasonings in which it has been improved, except the thyme and
+bay-leaves, broil it, and serve with _piquante_ sauce.
+
+_Cod-fish_, _cusk_, _haddock_, _hake_, _halibut_, _pollack_, and
+_torsk_, after being baked or boiled as directed, are served with the
+following sauces:
+
+_Anchovy_, _Béchamel_, _caper_, _cream_, _egg_, _Hollandaise_, _maître
+d'hôtel_, _tomato_, _vinaigrette_.
+
+
+EEL, CONGER, AND LAMPREY.
+
+_To clean._--When skinned, clean, head, and tail them. Then throw them
+in boiling water, in which you have put a little salt and a teaspoonful
+of vinegar; leave them in it about five minutes, take out, and drain.
+
+_Broiled._--Clean and cut two pounds of eel, or of either of the others,
+in pieces about three inches long. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter
+the size of an egg, and set it on the fire; when hot, lay the eels in,
+fry about three minutes, turning them over the while; then turn the
+whole into a crockery vessel, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and
+onions, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of sweet-oil, salt,
+and pepper; set on the fire and simmer two hours; take off, roll the
+pieces in fine bread-crumbs, place them on a gridiron, and on a good
+fire, and serve when done with _piquante_ sauce.
+
+From the nature of their flesh, eels require to be prepared thus; and,
+when properly done, make really a very good dish.
+
+_Roasted._--Prepare the eels as for broiling, and, instead of placing on
+the gridiron, envelop them in oiled paper and roast before a sharp fire.
+Serve with _piquante_, _ravigote_, or Tartar sauce.
+
+_Fried._--Prepare as for broiling as far as rolling in bread-crumbs,
+then dip in beaten-egg, roll in bread-crumbs again, and fry. (_See_
+Frying.) Serve with tomato-sauce, or just as it is.
+
+_In Maître d'hôtel._--Clean as directed, but boil twenty minutes instead
+of five. Serve with a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce and steamed potatoes, or
+with muscle, oyster, shrimp, or Tartar sauce.
+
+_In Matelote._--(_See_ Fish in Matelote.)
+
+_Stuffed._--Clean as directed; stuff it with currant jelly, bake or
+roast, and serve with currant jelly.
+
+_Flounder_ (wrongly called _sole_; the flounder is as good as the
+sole--the soles that may be found here are imported from Europe or from
+Newfoundland), _dab-fish_, and _plaice_, after being baked or boiled,
+may be served with the following sauces:
+
+_Allemande_, _anchovy_, _anchovy-butter_, _Mayonnaise_, _tomato_, and
+_au gratin_.
+
+_Baked._--Clean three pounds of the above fish. Put in a crockery dish
+four ounces of butter, set it on a good fire, and when melted sprinkle
+in it a teaspoonful of flour, stirring the while; also, a pinch of
+grated nutmeg, salt, pepper, a saltspoonful of chopped parsley, two or
+three mushrooms, also chopped, then the fish; pour on it a glass of
+white wine, and a liquor-glass of French brandy; cover the dish, take it
+from the fire, and put it in a moderately heated oven, and serve when
+done just as it is, and in the crockery dish.
+
+_A la Normande_.--Bone and skin the fish as directed. For a fish
+weighing four pounds, spread two ounces of butter on the bottom of a
+baking-pan; spread one onion, chopped fine, over the butter, and as much
+carrot, cut in small dice. Place the fish over the whole, the pieces as
+they are, or cut according to the size of the pan, salt and pepper, and
+bake. Take from the oven when done and dish the fish, leaving the juice
+in the pan; cut the stems of about a dozen mushrooms; place the heads on
+the middle of the fish, and the stems around it.
+
+Mix cold a tablespoonful of flour and the same of butter in a saucepan,
+turn into it a pint of broth, set on the fire and stir continually; when
+thoroughly mixed, turn into it also, and through a strainer, the juice
+from the pan in which the fish has baked; stir again two or three
+minutes; turn gently over the fish, put in the oven for about ten
+minutes, and serve hot. _Croutons_ may be placed around the dish as a
+decoration.
+
+_Another Normande._--Bone and skin the fish as directed; butter well the
+dish on which the fish is to be served, spread some chopped onion all
+over, then place the fish over it; sprinkle salt, pepper, and white wine
+or vinegar (a tablespoonful to a pound of fish), all over the fish, and
+bake it. It takes about fifteen minutes for a fish weighing two or three
+pounds. Wine is better than vinegar.
+
+While the fish is baking, set a saucepan on the fire with an ounce of
+butter in it, and when melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour; stir,
+and when turning yellow, add also half a pint of broth or water, salt,
+then the juice from the fish when baked, stir, give one boil, and turn
+over the fish.
+
+Blanch a dozen or so of oysters, place them all over the fish also.
+
+Have ready two or three potatoes, cut with a round vegetable spoon;
+boil till done; place them around the fish as a border for it; dust then
+the whole with bread-crumbs, put in a warm oven for about fifteen
+minutes, take off, place half a dozen _croutons_ all around the dish
+also, and serve.
+
+The _croutons_ are generally cut of a heart-shape. It will be easily
+done if the directions are followed properly and carefully.
+
+Commence by cutting the bread, then cut the potatoes, and set them on
+the fire with cold water and salt; while they are cooking, prepare the
+fish and set it in the oven; while this is baking, make the sauce, fry
+the _croutons_, and blanch the oysters. If the fish is baked before the
+rest are ready, take it off and keep warm till wanted. It makes a
+sightly and excellent dish.
+
+_The same fried._--Small flounders are fried like other small fish, and
+served either with or without a tomato-sauce or _à la Orly_.
+
+_The same, boned and fried._--Bone and skin small flounders as directed;
+mix together a tablespoonful of oil, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+the juice of half a lemon, and salt; dip the pieces of fish in the
+mixture, dust them slightly with flour, and fry. Serve hot.
+
+_Pike, Pickerel, and Trout or Troutlet._--Those three fish, besides
+being prepared as directed for bass, etc., and in all its different
+ways, they are boiled as directed and served warm, with a _génoise_
+sauce.
+
+A more delicious dish of fish can hardly be prepared.
+
+_Ray, Skate, and Angel or Monk fish._--Ray, though excellent, is very
+little known; there is only one place at which it can be
+bought--Washington Market, New York.
+
+It is unquestionably an excellent dish, prepared _au beurre noir_. When
+clean, boil the fish as directed, and dish it, sprinkling salt and
+pepper on it.
+
+While it is boiling, put about two ounces of butter to a pound of fish
+in a frying-pan, set it on a sharp fire, stir now and then, and when
+brown, throw into it about six sprigs of parsley, which you take off
+immediately with a skimmer. As soon as the parsley is taken off, pour
+the butter over the fish, quickly put two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in
+the frying-pan and over the fire, give one boil, and pour also over the
+fish. Frying the parsley and boiling the vinegar cannot be done too
+fast, as the fish must be served very warm. The warmer it is served, the
+better it is.
+
+_Salmon_, _sturgeon_, and _white-fish_, after being baked or boiled, may
+be served with a caper, and also with a _Mayonnaise_ sauce. They may
+also be served in _court bouillon_, like bass. They are broiled whole,
+or in slices, and served with a _maître d'hôtel_ or a caper sauce.
+
+_The same in Fricandeau._--Cut the fish in slices about half an inch
+thick, and place them in a saucepan with slices of fat salt pork,
+carrots and onions under them; set on a good fire; ten minutes after,
+add a little broth, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan; after
+about five minutes, turn the slices over; finish the cooking and serve
+with the gravy strained over the fish, or with a tomato-sauce.
+
+_The same in Papillotes._--Fry slices of salmon with a little butter,
+and until of a golden color; take them from the fire. While they are
+frying, mix well together parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, melted
+butter, grated nutmeg, and a little lemon-juice; spread some of the
+mixture on both sides of the slices of fish, envelop them in buttered or
+oiled paper; broil, and serve them hot.
+
+Some mushrooms or truffles, or both, and chopped, may be added to the
+mixture.
+
+_The same à la Génevoise._--Put in a saucepan a thick slice of
+salmon--from five to six pounds; just cover it with broth and claret
+wine--half of each; season with a bunch of seasonings composed of six or
+eight sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, two cloves, and
+two cloves of garlic, salt, a few slices of carrot, and a small green
+onion, or a shallot, if handy. Boil gently till nearly done, when add
+about a dozen mushrooms, and keep boiling till done; dish the fish, and
+put it in a warm but not hot place; mix cold, in a saucepan, four ounces
+of butter with about two ounces of flour; turn over it, through a
+strainer, the liquor in which the fish has been cooked, and set on a
+sharp fire; after about three minutes, during which you have stirred
+with a wooden spoon, add the mushrooms; stir again for about two
+minutes, turn over the fish, and serve warm.
+
+_The same in Salad._--Boil, as directed for fish, some thin slices of
+salmon, drain, and serve cold, on a napkin and on a dish.
+
+Serve with it, and in a boat, the following: half a teaspoonful of salt,
+a pinch of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, four of sweet oil, a
+pickled cucumber chopped fine, two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine also,
+two or three anchovies, and a tablespoonful of capers; the anchovies may
+be chopped fine or pounded. Beat the whole well and serve.
+
+_The same in Scallops._--Cut it in round slices, about one-eighth of an
+inch in thickness; fry them with butter, and serve.
+
+The pieces should be tastefully arranged on a dish, imitating a flight
+of stairs.
+
+_Broiled._--Cut it in rather thin slices, butter both sides with a
+brush; broil, and serve with a _maître d'hôtel_.
+
+_Shad_ and _sheep's-head_, after being baked or boiled, are served with
+an anchovy, caper, or tomato sauce. They are also served cold, _à la
+vinaigrette_.
+
+_Broiled._--When cleaned and prepared, salt, pepper, and butter it;
+broil and serve it with a _maître d'hôtel_.
+
+It may be _stuffed_ as directed for fish.
+
+_In Provençale._--Clean, prepare, and cut the fish in pieces about two
+inches long; put about three pounds of it in a saucepan, with a pint of
+claret; six stalks of parsley, a small onion, a clove of garlic, and six
+mushrooms, all chopped fine; boil till done, when add four ounces of
+butter, and two of flour, well kneaded together; boil three minutes
+longer, and serve warm.
+
+_Another way, or à la Chambord._--Stuff the fish with sausage-meat,
+envelop it in a towel, boil, and serve it with a tomato-sauce.
+
+_The same with Sorrel._--Broil the fish, and serve it on a purée of
+sorrel or of spinach.
+
+It may also be prepared _au court bouillon_, _à la Bretonne_, and _aux
+fines herbes_, like bass, etc.
+
+_Sheep's-head_ may also be prepared like turbot.
+
+_Au Gratin._--The shad, after being cleaned, but not split on the back
+(as is too often the case, to the shame of the fishmongers who begin by
+spoiling the fish under the pretence of cleaning it), is placed in a
+bake-pan, having butter, chopped parsley, mushroom, salt, and pepper,
+both under and above the fish. For a fish weighing three pounds, add one
+gill of broth and half as much of white wine; dust the fish with
+bread-crumbs, and set in a pretty quick oven.
+
+Fifteen minutes afterward, examine it. When done, the fish is dished, a
+little broth is put in the pan, which is placed on a sharp fire; stir
+with a spoon or fork so as to detach the bread, etc., that may stick to
+the pan, then pour this over the fish, and serve warm.
+
+The gravy must be reduced to two or three tablespoonfuls only, for a
+fish weighing about two pounds.
+
+The fish must be dished carefully in order not to break it.
+
+_Sterlet._--This is a fish of the sturgeon family, very plentiful in the
+Caspian Sea and in many Russian rivers, principally in the Neva and in
+Lake Ladoga.
+
+_Tunny_ and _bonito_, after being boiled, are served cold in
+_vinaigrette_.
+
+_Turbot and Whiff._--Turbot is among fishes what pheasant is among
+birds. Rub it with lemon before cooking it.
+
+After being boiled or baked, as directed, it is served with the
+following sauces: _Béchamel_, _cream_, _caper_, _Hollandaise_,
+_Mayonnaise_, _tomato_, and in _vinaigrette_.
+
+It is also served _au court-bouillon_ and _aux fines herbes_ like bass.
+
+_Au Gratin._--It is prepared and served like shad au gratin.
+
+It is also broiled and served with a _maître d'hôtel_.
+
+_Bordelaise._--Bone and skin the fish as directed; dip each piece in
+melted butter, then in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs and broil. While
+it is broiling on a rather slow fire, turn it over several times and
+keep basting with melted butter; the more butter it absorbs the better
+the fish.
+
+When broiled, serve the slices on a dish and place some boiled craw-fish
+all around and in the middle. A dish of steamed potatoes is served with
+it.
+
+The following sauce is also served at the same time: Chop fine and fry
+till half done, with a little butter, two small green onions or four
+shallots. Put half a pint of good meat-gravy in a small saucepan; set on
+the fire, and as soon as it commences to boil, pour into it, little by
+little, stirring the while with a wooden spoon, about a gill of Bordeaux
+wine, then the onions or shallots, and also a piece of beef marrow
+chopped fine; give one boil, and serve in a saucer.
+
+_In Salad._--Proceed as for salmon in salad.
+
+When _boiled_, serve the turbot with anchovy-butter, lobster-butter,
+lobster-sauce, or muscle-sauce.
+
+_Cold._--Any cold piece of turbot is served with a _Mayonnaise_ sauce,
+or in _vinaigrette_.
+
+_Cold Fish._--If the fish is with sauce, that is, if the sauce is in the
+same dish with the fish, warm it in the _bain-marie_, and serve warm.
+Any other piece of cold fish, baked, boiled, broiled, or roasted, is
+served with a _Mayonnaise_ sauce, or with a _vinaigrette_.
+
+Any kind of cold fish may be prepared in salad. Slice the fish or cut it
+in pieces and put it in the salad-dish with hard-boiled egg sliced,
+onion and parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil. Mix the
+whole gently and well, and serve.
+
+_Anchovy._--It is imported preserved. It is used as a _hors-d'oeuvre_,
+to decorate or season.
+
+The essence of anchovy is used for sauce.
+
+The smallest are considered the best.
+
+To serve as a _hors d'oeuvre_, wash, wipe dry, and remove the backbone,
+serve with tarragon or parsley, chopped fine, vinegar, and oil.
+
+They may also be served with hard-boiled eggs, chopped or quartered.
+
+_Sprats._--There are none in or near American waters; they are imported
+under their French name, sardines. Fresh sprats are very good boiled
+without any grease, and without being cleaned and prepared like other
+fish; but when on the plate, skin them, which is easily done, as then
+the flesh is so easily detached from the bones that the inside need not
+be touched at all; they are eaten with salt and pepper only.
+
+Sardines are served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, with oil and lemon-juice, and
+properly scaled. They are arranged on the dish according to fancy,
+together with lemon in slices.
+
+_Salt Cod--to prepare._--Soak it in cold water for two days, changing
+the water two or three times; then scale it well and clean. Lay it in a
+fish-kettle, cover with cold water, set on a rather slow fire, skim off
+the scum, let it boil about one minute, take the kettle from the fire,
+cover it well, and leave thus ten minutes; then take off the cod, and
+drain it.
+
+_In Béchamel._--Prepare it as above, and serve with a béchamel sauce,
+and as warm as possible.
+
+_With a Cream-Sauce._--Prepare as above, and serve either warm or cold
+with a cream-sauce.
+
+_In Brown Butter._--When prepared as above, place it on a dish, and keep
+it in a warm place. Put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and on a
+good fire; when turning brown, add three sprigs of parsley, fry about
+two minutes, pour the whole on the fish, and serve. You may also pour on
+it a hot caper-sauce, and serve.
+
+_With Croutons._--Prepare and cook as directed, three pounds of cod;
+take the bones out, break in small pieces, and mash with the hand as
+much as possible; put it then in a stewpan, beat three yolks of eggs
+with two tablespoonfuls of cream, and mix with the cod; set on a slow
+fire, and immediately pour in, little by little, stirring the while,
+about one gill of sweet oil; simmer ten or twelve minutes, and serve
+with _croutons_ around.
+
+_In Maître d'Hôtel._--Lay three pounds of cod on a dish, after being
+cooked as directed; keep it warm, spread a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce on it,
+and serve.
+
+_With Potatoes._--Prepare about three pounds of cod as directed above.
+Lay the fish on a dish; have a _piquante_ sauce ready, turn it over it,
+and serve with steamed potatoes all around the dish. The potatoes may
+also be served separately.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Prepare as directed, and when cold, serve with a
+vinaigrette.
+
+_With Cheese._--Prepare the cod as directed, then dip it in lukewarm
+butter, roll it in grated cheese, lay it in a baking-pan, dust slightly
+with bread-crumbs; bake, and serve warm. Two or three minutes in a quick
+oven will be sufficient.
+
+_Au Gratin._--When soaked only and wiped dry, but not boiled, prepare it
+as directed for fish au gratin.
+
+_With Caper-Sauce._--Prepare it as directed, and serve warm with
+caper-sauce.
+
+_Salt Salmon._--Soak it in cold water for some time, the length of time
+to be according to the saltness of the fish; scale and clean it well,
+lay it in a fish-kettle, cover it with cold water, and set it on a
+moderate fire. Boil gently about two minutes, skim off the scum, take
+from the kettle and drain it. Put butter in a frying-pan and set it on
+the fire; when it turns rather brown, put a few sprigs of parsley in it,
+and immediately pour it over the fish in the dish; add a few drops of
+lemon-juice all over, and serve warm.
+
+It may also be served with a caper or _maître d'hôtel_ sauce; or, when
+cold, serve _à la vinaigrette_.
+
+Salt salmon is also served like salt cod-fish.
+
+It may also be served on a _purée_ of celery or of onion.
+
+_Smoked Salmon._--Cut it in thin slices; have very hot butter or oil in
+a frying-pan, and lay the slices in only long enough to warm them; then
+take out, drain them, and serve with a few drops of lemon-juice or
+vinegar sprinkled on them.
+
+_Tunny._--This is not a good fish fresh; it is generally preserved, and
+served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_. It comes from Holland, Italy, and the south
+of France.
+
+Fresh, it is prepared like sturgeon. That prepared in Holland is the
+best. The Dutch cure fish better than any other nation.
+
+When you serve tunny, take it out of the bottle or jar and serve it on a
+small plate, or on a dessert-plate. A very small piece is served,
+generally like every other _hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+_Salt Herring._--Soak in cold or tepid water; if soaked in tepid water,
+it does not require as long; the time must be according to the quality
+or saltness of the fish. Wipe dry, broil, and serve like salt mackerel.
+
+_Another way._--Salt herring may also be soaked in half water and half
+milk, or in milk only; drain and wipe dry. Bone and skin, cut off the
+head, tail, and fins, and serve with oil, vinegar, and pickled
+cucumbers.
+
+They are also served with slices of sour apples, or slices of onions,
+after being soaked and wiped dry.
+
+They may also be broiled slightly and served with oil only, after being
+soaked, or served with sour grape-juice.
+
+_Salt Pike._--It is prepared and served the same as salt herring; so is
+pickled trout.
+
+_Red Herring._--Wipe or skin them, they are not as good when washed; cut
+off the head and tail, split the back open, lay them on a warm and
+well-greased gridiron, set on a slow fire; spread some butter or oil on
+them, turn over, do the same on the other side; broil very little, and
+serve with a _vinaigrette_ and mustard to taste.
+
+_Another way._--Clean and split them as above, soak them in lukewarm
+water for two hours; take out, drain, and wipe dry. Mix two or three
+yolks of eggs with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a
+little melted butter; put some of the mixture around every herring, then
+roll them in fine bread-crumbs, place them on a gridiron on a slow fire:
+and when lightly broiled, serve as the preceding one.
+
+Red herring may also be broiled with bread-crumbs like salt herring.
+
+It is also served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, cut in slices.
+
+_Salt Mackerel broiled._--If the fish be too salt, soak it for a while
+in lukewarm water, take off and wipe dry. Have a little melted fat or
+lard, dip a brush in it and grease slightly both sides of the fish;
+place on or inside of the gridiron, the bars of which must also be
+greased; set on, or before, or under a pretty sharp fire; broil both
+sides; dish the fish, the skin under; spread butter on it; also parsley
+chopped fine, and serve.
+
+Lemon-juice may be added if liked, or a few drops of vinegar.
+
+When broiled and dished, spread a _maître d'hôtel_ on it, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--When soaked and wiped dry, dip in melted butter, again
+in beaten eggs, and roll in bread-crumbs. Broil and serve with parsley
+and lemon-juice, or with a _maître d'hôtel_.
+
+
+  FROGS.
+
+The hind-legs of frogs only are used as food; formerly they were eaten
+by the French only, but now, frog-eating has become general, and the
+Americans are not behind any others in relishing that kind of food.
+
+_Fried._--Skin well, and throw into boiling water with a little salt,
+for five minutes, the hind-legs only; take out and throw them in cold
+water to cool, and drain. Have hot fat in a pan on the fire (_see_
+Directions for Frying); lay the frogs in, and serve when done with fried
+parsley around.
+
+_Stewed._--Skin, boil five minutes, throw in cold water, and drain as
+above. Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter (for two dozen frogs); set
+it on the fire, and when melted, lay the legs in, fry two minutes,
+tossing now and then; then sprinkle on them a teaspoonful of flour, stir
+with a wooden spoon, add two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, one of garlic, salt, white pepper, and half a pint
+of white wine; boil gently till done, dish the legs, reduce the sauce on
+the fire, strain it, mix in it two yolks of eggs, pour on the legs, and
+serve them.
+
+
+  LOBSTER.
+
+Never buy a dead lobster.
+
+Large lobsters are not as good as small ones. From about one to two
+pounds and a half in weight are the best. The heavier the better.
+
+Lobsters are better at some seasons of the year than at others. They are
+inferior when full of eggs.
+
+It is from mere prejudice that the liver (also called _tomalley_) is
+eschewed. This prejudice may come from its turning green on boiling the
+lobster.
+
+Use every thing but the stomach and the black of bluish vein running
+along its back and tail.
+
+Boil your lobsters yourself; because, if you buy them already boiled,
+you do not know if they were alive when put in the kettle.
+
+A lobster boiled after being dead is watery, soft, and not full; besides
+being very unhealthy, if not dangerous.
+
+A lobster suffers less by being put in cold than in boiling water, and
+the flesh is firmer when done. In putting it in boiling water it is
+killed by the heat; in cold water it is dead as soon as the water gets
+warm.
+
+_To boil._.--Lay it in a fish-kettle; just cover it with cold water,
+cover the kettle, and set it on a sharp fire.
+
+It takes from fifteen to twenty-five minutes' boiling, according to the
+size of the lobster.
+
+When boiled, take it from the kettle, break it in two, that is, separate
+the body from the tail, and place it in a colander to let the water
+drain.
+
+_In the shell._--When the lobster is boiled, divide it in two, taking
+care not to break the body and large claws. The tail is then split in
+two, lengthwise, the flesh taken off, cut in small dice, and mixed with
+the inside of the lobster.
+
+The vein found immediately under the shell, all along the flesh of the
+lobster, is removed as soon as it is split. The stomach, found near the
+head, is removed also and thrown away; all the rest is good, including
+the liver.
+
+When the flesh and inside are properly mixed, season with salt, pepper,
+vinegar, oil, mustard, and chopped parsley.
+
+Place the body of the lobster on the middle of a dish, the head up, the
+two large claws stretched out, and the two feelers stretched out also
+and fastened between the claws. A sprig of parsley is put in each claw,
+at the end of it, in the small claws as well as in the two large ones.
+Then the two empty halves of the tail-piece are put around the body of
+the lobster, the prepared flesh placed around them; hard-boiled eggs cut
+in eight pieces each are placed around the dish, tastefully arranged;
+some slices of red, pickled beets and cut with paste-cutters, are placed
+between each piece of egg, and serve.
+
+It makes a simple, good, and very sightly dish.
+
+Half a dozen boiled craw-fish may be placed around the dish also; it
+will add to the decoration.
+
+Two middling-sized lobsters prepared thus will fill a very large dish.
+They should be placed back to back, with only a few craw-fish between,
+and the rest arranged as the above.
+
+_In Salad._--Boil the lobster as directed; break and drain it as
+directed also. Slice the flesh of the tail, place it tastefully on a
+dish; also the flesh from the two large claws, which may be sliced or
+served whole. Lettuce, or hard-boiled eggs, or both, may be arranged on
+the dish also, and served with the following sauce:
+
+Put in a boat or saucer all the inside save the stomach, with salt,
+pepper, vinegar, oil, mustard, and chopped parsley, to taste; beat and
+mix the whole well together, and serve. In case there are eggs, these
+are also to be mixed with the rest.
+
+_Another._--Boil and drain as directed; cut all the flesh in dice, and
+put it in a bowl with the inside, some lettuce cut rather fine, salt,
+pepper, vinegar, mustard, and very little oil; mix well, and then put
+the mixture on a dish, placing it like a mound on the middle of the
+dish; spread a _Mayonnaise_ sauce over it; decorate with the centre
+leaves of the lettuce, some hard-boiled eggs cut in slices or in fancy
+shapes, capers, boiled or pickled red beets, cut also in fancy shapes,
+slices of lemon, and serve.
+
+Anchovies, olives, pickled cucumbers, or any other pickled fruit or
+vegetable may also be added.
+
+A rose, or two or three pinks, may be placed right on the top, as a
+decoration. Just before commencing to serve, the rose may be put on a
+dessert plate and offered to a lady.
+
+_In Coquilles, or Scalloped._--It is boiled and then finished like
+oysters scalloped.
+
+It may be served thus on scallop-shells, on silver shells, or on its own
+shell; that is, on the shell of the tail, split in two lengthwise, and
+trimmed according to fancy.
+
+_Croquettes._--Lobster croquettes are made exactly like _fish-balls_,
+and then fried according to directions for frying.
+
+They are served warm. It is an excellent dish for _breakfast_.
+
+_Fried._--To be fried, the lobster must be bled; separate the body from
+the tail, then cut the tail in pieces, making as many pieces as there
+are joints. Put these pieces in a frying-pan with two or three ounces of
+butter, and one onion, chopped fine; set on a sharp fire, stir now and
+then tin the whole is fried, then add a bunch of seasoning composed of
+three sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove; salt,
+pepper, and three gills of Madeira wine; boil gently till reduced about
+half; dish the pieces of lobster according to fancy; add two or three
+tablespoonfuls of gravy to the sauce, stir it, give one boil, and turn
+it over the lobster through a strainer; serve warm.
+
+_Another way._--Proceed as above in every particular, except that you
+use Sauterne or Catawba wine instead of Madeira, and, besides the
+seasonings, add half a dozen mushrooms, or two truffles, or both.
+
+Dish the mushrooms and truffles with the lobster, then finish and serve
+as the above.
+
+_Craw-fish._--These are found in most of the lakes, brooks, and rivers.
+
+In some places they are called _river-crabs_, or freshwater crabs.
+
+They resemble the lobster, and are often taken for young lobsters.
+
+Besides being a beautiful ornament and much used to decorate dishes,
+they are excellent to eat and very light.
+
+They are dressed and served like lobsters and crabs.
+
+Fishermen are sure to find a ready market for them, though they are, as
+yet, very little known.
+
+_Crabs._--Crabs are boiled like lobsters, and may be served like
+lobster, _in salad_. They are often eaten, only boiled, without any
+seasonings.
+
+Like lobsters also, to be good, crabs must be put in the water alive.
+
+When well washed and clean, they may be prepared in the following way:
+Put them in a saucepan with slices of onions, same of carrots, parsley,
+chives if handy, thyme, bay-leaves, cloves, salt, and pepper-corns; half
+cover them with white wine, add butter, set on a good fire, and boil
+till done. Serve with parsley only.
+
+The sauce may be used a second time by adding a little wine.
+
+The _soft-shell crab_ is blanched five minutes, and _fried_ like fish.
+
+It may also be _sauté_ with a little butter, and served with a _maître
+d'hôtel_.
+
+_Broil_ it also, and serve it with a _maître d'hôtel_.
+
+_Muscles._--These are unwholesome between April and September. They
+must be heavy, fresh, and of a middling size. The very large ones are
+really inferior.
+
+Soak them in water and wash well several times, then drain.
+
+_In Poulette._--Put them in a saucepan with a little parsley chopped
+fine, and set them on a pretty good fire; as soon as they are opened,
+remove the shell to which they are not attached, and keep them in a warm
+place.
+
+For two quarts of muscles, put two ounces of butter in the saucepan in
+which they have been cooked and in which you have left their liquor; set
+on the fire, stir, and as soon as the butter is melted, add and stir
+into it a tablespoonful of flour; when turning a little yellow, add also
+half a dozen pepper-corns, then the muscles; boil gently about ten
+minutes, stirring occasionally; take from the fire, mix one or two yolks
+of eggs with it, a little lemon-juice, parsley chopped fine, and serve
+warm.
+
+_Another way._--When clean, put them in a saucepan with a few slices of
+carrot, same of onion, two or three stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, six pepper-corns, and salt. Set on the fire, and
+take the muscles from the pan as soon as they open, then remove one
+shell; put them back in the pan, with as much white wine as there is
+liquor from the muscles; boil gently about ten minutes, add the yolk of
+an egg, a little lemon-juice, and dish the muscles; drain the sauce over
+them, add a little chopped parsley, and serve warm.
+
+_Fried._--Fry, and serve the muscles like fried oysters. They may also
+be served like scalloped oysters.
+
+_Prawns and Shrimps._--Wash, boil in water and salt, and serve. They may
+be used, like craw-fish, to decorate fish after being boiled.
+
+_Another way._--Wash well, and put two quarts of them in a saucepan
+with four onions in slices, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, salt, pepper, half a pint of white wine, and two
+ounces of butter, just cover with water and set on a good fire; when
+properly cooked, drain, and serve warm with green parsley all around.
+The liquor may be used a second time.
+
+
+  OYSTERS.
+
+The American oyster is unquestionably the best that can be found. It
+varies in taste according to how it is treated, either after being
+dredged or while embedded; and also according to the nature of the soil
+and water in which they have lived. It is very wrong to wash oysters. We
+mean by washing oysters, the abominable habit of throwing oysters in
+cold water, as soon as opened, and then sold by the measure. It is more
+than a pity to thus spoil such an excellent and delicate article of
+food.
+
+Oysters, like lobsters, are not good when dead. To ascertain if they are
+alive, as soon as opened and when one of the shells is removed, touch
+gently the edge of the oyster, and, if alive, it will contract.
+
+_Raw._--When well washed, open them, detaching the upper shell, then
+detach them from the under shell, but leave them on it; place on a dish,
+and leave the upper shell on every oyster, and serve thus.
+
+To eat them, you remove the upper shell, sprinkle salt, pepper, and
+lemon-juice on, and eat.
+
+When raw oysters are served on a table, at which there are gentlemen
+only, some shallots, chopped fine and gently bruised in a coarse towel,
+are served with them, on a separate dish. The taste of the shallot
+agrees very well with that of the oyster.
+
+A Tartar sauce may be served instead of shallots.
+
+_To blanch._--Set the oysters and a little water on the fire in a
+saucepan, take them off at the first boil, skim off the scum from the
+top, strain them, and drop them in cold water.
+
+The skimming, straining, and dropping in cold water must be done
+quickly--the quicker the better. If allowed to stay in the warm water,
+or out of water, they get tough.
+
+In dropping them in cold water, see that they are free from pieces of
+shell; take them with a fork if necessary.
+
+As soon as in cold water they are ready for use, but they must always be
+drained again before using them.
+
+When the water used to blanch is employed in preparing them, it is
+explained in the different receipts.
+
+White wine may be used, instead of water, to blanch them, according to
+taste.
+
+_Fried._--Open the oysters, and put them in a colander for about half an
+hour. They must be as well drained as possible. Then dip them in egg and
+roll in bread-crumbs in the following way: Beat one or two, or three,
+eggs (according to the quantity of oysters to be fried), as for an
+omelet, turn the oysters into the eggs and stir gently; then take one
+after another, roll in bread-crumbs; place each one on your left hand,
+in taking them from the crumbs, and with the other hand press gently on
+it. Put them away in a cool place for about half an hour, and then dip
+again in egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and press in the hand as before. It
+is not indispensable to dip in egg and roll in crumbs a second time; but
+the oysters are better, and you are well repaid for the little extra
+work it requires. While you are preparing them, set some fat on the fire
+in a pan, and when hot enough (_see_ Frying) drop the oysters in, stir
+gently, take off with a skimmer when fried, turn into a colander, add
+salt, and serve hot.
+
+_Roasted._--Place the oysters on a hot stove or range, or on coals, and
+as soon as they open take off, remove one shell; turn a little melted
+butter on each, and serve.
+
+There are several other ways.
+
+When blanched, they are served on toast, a little gravy is added, the
+toast placed on a dessert-plate, and served thus.
+
+_Broiled_ and roasted as above is the same thing.
+
+Oysters scalloped on their own shell, and placed on the range instead of
+in the oven, are also called broiled.
+
+_Scalloped._--Place the oysters when thoroughly washed on a hot stove,
+and as soon as they open remove one shell, the flatter one of the two,
+and take them from the fire. Sprinkle salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and
+bread-crumbs on them; place on each a piece of butter the size of a
+hazel-nut; put in the oven about ten minutes, and when done add a few
+drops of meat-gravy, to each, and serve hot.
+
+_Another._--Put a quart of oysters and their liquor in a saucepan, set
+it on the fire, take off at the first boil, and drain. Set a saucepan on
+the fire with two ounces of butter in it; as soon as melted, add a
+teaspoonful of flour, stir, and, when turning rather brown, add the
+juice of the oysters, about a gill of gravy, salt, and pepper; boil
+gently for about ten minutes, stirring now and then. While it is
+boiling, place the oysters on scallop-shells, or on silver shells made
+for that purpose, two or three oysters on each, turn some of the above
+sauce on each, after it has boiled; dust with bread-crumbs, put a little
+piece of butter on each shell, and bake for about twelve minutes in a
+warm oven.
+
+A dozen silver shells served thus make a sightly and excellent dish.
+
+Some truffles, chopped fine, may be added to the sauce, two minutes
+before taking it from the fire.
+
+_Stewed._--Procure two quarts of good and fresh oysters. Set them on a
+sharp fire, with their liquor and a little water, and blanch as
+directed. Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, set on the fire, and
+when melted stir into it a small tablespoonful of flour; as soon as
+mixed, add also a teaspoonful of parsley, chopped fine, and about half a
+pint of broth; boil gently about ten minutes, then add the oysters, salt
+and pepper, boil again about one minute, dish the whole, sprinkle
+lemon-juice on, and serve.
+
+An oyster soup is often called a stew.
+
+_In Poulette._--In adding chopped mushrooms to the stewed oysters, at
+the same time that the oysters are put in the pan, you make them in
+_poulette_.
+
+_A la Washington._--Fried oysters are called _à la Washington_, when
+two, three, or four very large oysters are put together (they adhere
+very easily), dipped in egg, rolled in bread-crumbs, and fried, as
+directed above. It is necessary to have a deep pan, and much fat, to
+immerse them completely.
+
+_Pickled_ oysters are always served as a _hors d'oeuvre_. Place around
+the oysters some hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, and serve with oil and
+vinegar.
+
+Serve them in the same way, with slices of truffles instead of
+hard-boiled eggs.
+
+They may also be served with lemon-juice only.
+
+Or with shallots chopped fine, and then bruised in a coarse towel. This
+last one is considered of too strong a taste for ladies.
+
+They are also served with a Tartar sauce.
+
+_Scallops._--Blanch the scallops for three minutes, drain them. Put
+butter on the fire in a frying-pan, and when melted turn the scallops
+in; stir now and then, take from the fire when fried, add parsley
+chopped fine, salt, pepper, and serve warm.
+
+_On the Shell._--Chop fine a middling-sized onion, and fry it with one
+ounce of butter. While the onion is frying, chop fine also one quart of
+scallops and put them with the onion; stir for two or three minutes, or
+till about half fried, when turn the juice off, put back on the fire,
+and add one ounce of butter, one gill of white wine, stir for two or
+three minutes, and if too thick add the juice you have turned off; take
+from the fire, and mix a yolk of egg with it, add salt, pepper, nutmeg
+grated, and parsley chopped fine.
+
+Have the scallop shells properly cleaned, or silver shells, spread the
+mixture on the shells; dust with bread-crumbs, put a piece of butter
+about the size of a hazel-nut on each, and put in an oven, at about 320
+deg. Fahr., for from ten to fifteen minutes.
+
+This is a dish for _breakfast_.
+
+Scallop, scollop, or escalop, are one and the same fish.
+
+
+  CLAMS.
+
+Wash clean with a scrubbing-brush and put them in a kettle; set on a
+good fire, and leave till they are wide open; then take from the kettle,
+cut each in two or three pieces, put them in a stewpan with all the
+water they have disgorged in the kettle, and about four ounces of butter
+for fifty clams; boil slowly about an hour, take from the fire, and mix
+with the whole two beaten eggs, and serve warm.
+
+Clams are also eaten raw with vinegar, salt, and pepper.
+
+_Chowder._--This popular dish is made in a hundred different ways, but
+the result is about the same.
+
+It is generally admitted that boatmen prepare it better than others, and
+the receipts we give below came from the most experienced chowder-men of
+the Harlem River.
+
+Potatoes and crackers are used in different proportions, the more used,
+the thicker the chowder will be.
+
+Put in a _pot_ (technical name) some small slices of fat salt pork,
+enough to line the bottom of it; on that, a layer of potatoes, cut in
+small pieces; on the potatoes, a layer of chopped onions; on the onions,
+a layer of tomatoes, in slices, or canned tomatoes; on the latter a
+layer of clams, whole or chopped (they are generally chopped), then a
+layer of crackers.
+
+Then repeat the process, that is, another layer of potatoes on that of
+the clams; on this, one of onions, etc., till the pot is nearly full.
+Every layer is seasoned with salt and pepper. Other spices are sometimes
+added according to taste; such as thyme, cloves, bay-leaves, and
+tarragon.
+
+When the whole is in, cover with water, set on a slow fire, and when
+nearly done, stir gently, finish cooking, and serve.
+
+As we remarked above, the more potatoes that are used, the thicker it
+will be.
+
+When done, if found too thin, boil a little longer; if found too thick,
+add a little water, give one boil, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Proceed as above in every particular, except that you
+omit the clams and crackers, and when the rest is nearly cooked, then
+add the chopped clams and broken crackers, boil fast about twenty-five
+minutes longer, and serve.
+
+If found too thick or too thin, proceed exactly as for the one above.
+
+_Fish Chowder._--This is made exactly as clam chowder, using fish
+instead of clams.
+
+_Clam Bake._--This is how it is made by the Harlem River clam-baker, Tom
+Riley.
+
+Lay the clams on a rock, edge downward, and forming a circle, cover them
+with fine brush; cover the brush with dry sage; cover the sage with
+larger brush; set the whole on fire, and when a little more than half
+burnt (brush and sage), look at the clams by pulling some out, and if
+done enough, brush the fire, cinders, etc., off; mix some tomato or
+cauliflower sauce, or catsup, with the clams (minus their shells); add
+butter and spices to taste, and serve.
+
+Done on sand, the clams, in opening, naturally allow the sand to get in,
+and it is anything but pleasant for the teeth while eating them.
+
+
+
+
+  BEEF.
+
+
+  HOW TO SELECT.
+
+See if the meat is fine, of a clear red color, with yellowish-white fat.
+
+
+  COW BEEF.
+
+Cow beef must also be of a clear red color, but more pale than other
+beef; the fat is white.
+
+
+  BULL BEEF.
+
+Bull beef is never good; you recognize it when you see hard and yellow
+fat; the lean part is of a dirty-reddish color.
+
+The rump piece is generally prepared _à la mode_. For steaks, the
+tenderloin and the piece called the porter-house steak, are the best;
+rump steaks are seldom tender.
+
+The roasting or baking pieces are the tenderloin, the fillet, and some
+cuts of the ribs.
+
+For soup, every piece is good; to make rich broth, take pieces of the
+rump, sucket, round, etc., but every piece makes excellent broth, and
+therefore excellent soup. (_See_ Broth.)
+
+A good piece of rib, prepared like a fillet or tenderloin, makes an
+excellent dish, the bones and meat around them being used to make
+broth.
+
+
+  A LA MODE.
+
+Take from six to twelve pounds of rump and lard it. To lard it you take
+a steel needle made for that purpose, flat near the pointed end and much
+larger than an ordinary larding-needle. It must be flat near the point
+in order to cut the meat so as to make room for the larger part of the
+needle to pass, and also for the salt pork. This needle is only used for
+beef _à la mode_.
+
+Cut the salt pork in square strips to fit the needle, (_see_ Larding),
+and proceed.
+
+Examine the piece of beef, lard with the grain of the meat, so that when
+it is carved the salt pork shall be cut across.
+
+If the piece is too thick to run the strip of pork through, so that both
+ends stick out, lard one side first then the other. We mean by one side
+first, this: to be easily handled, the salt pork cannot be cut longer
+than about four inches; as half an inch of it must stick out of the
+meat, it leaves only three inches inside, and if the piece of meat be
+six inches or more thick, of course it would be impossible to have the
+strip of pork stick out on both sides; therefore, you lard one side
+first; that is, you run the needle through the meat, leaving the salt
+pork stick out on the side you commence, and when that side is larded,
+do the same for the other. You have then the salt pork sticking out on
+both sides of the meat and looking just as if the strips were running
+through the whole piece.
+
+Some like more salt pork than others in the beef; the strips may be run
+thickly or thinly.
+
+Thirty strips may be run into three pounds of meat as well as half a
+dozen; but about half a pound of salt pork to five pounds of beef is a
+pretty good proportion.
+
+Then take a saucepan of a proper size for the piece of meat; it must not
+be too large or too small, but large enough to hold the meat without
+being obliged to bend or fold it; a crockery pan is certainly the best
+for that purpose, and one that will go easily in the oven.
+
+Put in the saucepan, for six pounds of beef, half a calf's foot, or a
+veal-bone if more handy, two ounces of butter, half a handful of parsley
+(cives, if handy), two bay-leaves, a clove of garlic, a sprig of thyme,
+two onions, with a clove stuck in each, salt, pepper, half a carrot cut
+in slices, the rind of the salt pork you have used, and what you may
+have left of strips; the whole well spread on the bottom of the pan,
+then the piece of meat over, cover the pan, set on a rather sharp fire
+and after about ten minutes add half a gill of water; keep the pan
+covered to the end.
+
+After another ten or fifteen minutes, add about one pint of cold water,
+turn the meat over, and after about ten minutes more, place the pan in
+the oven, a rather slow oven (a little above 220 degrees Fahr.), for
+five or six hours. Dish the meat, skim off the fat on the top of the
+gravy, give one boil and turn it over the meat and carrots through a
+strainer.
+
+When the meat is dished; put some carrots _au jus_ all around; serve
+warm.
+
+_Cold._--Serve it whole or in slices, with meat jelly, or with a sharp
+sauce; such as _piquante, ravigote_, etc.
+
+
+  STEWED.
+
+Stewed beef is called also _daube_ or _braised_ beef, but it is the
+same.
+
+It may be larded as beef _à la mode_, or not; it may be put whole in the
+pan or in large dice, according to taste.
+
+The following is for five or six pounds of rump or even a piece of ribs:
+
+Put in a saucepan two ounces of salt pork cut in dice, four sprigs of
+parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, a clove of garlic, a sprig of
+sweet basil, two cloves, three carrots cut in pieces, salt, and pepper;
+put the piece of beef on the whole, wet with a glass of broth, and one
+of white wine (a liquor-glass of French brandy may also be added);
+season with six or eight small onions; place in a moderately heated
+oven, put paste around the cover to keep it air-tight; simmer about six
+hours; dish the meat with the onions and carrots around it, strain the
+gravy on the whole, and serve.
+
+Almost any piece of beef may be cooked in the same way, and will be
+found good, wholesome, and economical.
+
+
+  ROASTED.
+
+_How to improve it._--Put the meat in a tureen, with four tablespoonfuls
+of sweet-oil, salt, pepper, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, four
+onions cut in slices, two bay-leaves, and the juice of half a lemon; put
+half of all the above under the meat, and half on it; cover, and leave
+thus two days in winter, and about eighteen hours in summer.
+
+It certainly improves the meat and makes it more tender. The tenderloin
+may be improved as well as any other piece.
+
+Then place the meat on the spit before and near a very sharp fire. Baste
+often with the seasonings, if you have improved the meat; or with a
+little melted butter, if you have not. Continue basting with what is in
+the dripping-pan.
+
+Beef must be placed as near the fire as possible, without burning it,
+however; and then, as soon as a coating or crust is formed all around,
+remove it by degrees. Remember that the quicker the crust is formed, the
+more juicy and tender the meat.
+
+Nothing at all is added to form that kind of crust. It is formed by the
+osmazome of the meat, attracted by the heat, and coming in contact with
+the air while revolving.
+
+Beef is more juicy when rather underdone; if good, when cut, it has a
+pinky color inside.
+
+Roast beef may be served with the drippings only, after being strained
+and the fat removed.
+
+It may also be served in the following ways:
+
+_With Potatoes._--Fried potatoes may be served all around the meat, or
+on a separate dish. Also, potato croquettes.
+
+_With Horse-radish._--Grate horse-radish, mix it with the drippings, and
+serve in a boat.
+
+_With a Garniture._--Mix a liver garniture with the gravy, add
+lemon-juice, place all around the meat, and serve.
+
+_With Truffles._--Place the garniture of truffles on and around the
+meat, turn the drippings on the whole, and serve.
+
+_With Tomatoes._--Surround the meat with stuffed tomatoes, strain the
+gravy on the whole, and serve.
+
+_On Purées._--Spread either of the following _purées_ on the dish, place
+the meat over it, strain the drippings on the whole; and serve:
+
+_Purées_ of _asparagus_, _beans_, _cauliflowers_, _celery_, _Lima
+beans_, _onions_, _green peas_, _potatoes_, and _mushrooms_.
+
+_With Cabbage._--Surround the meat with Brussels cabbages, prepared _au
+jus_; strain the drippings on the whole, and serve.
+
+_With Quenelles._--Place twelve quenelles of chicken around the meat,
+and serve with the drippings.
+
+
+  TO DECORATE.
+
+When served in any way as described above, one or two or more skewers
+may be run through craw-fish and a slice of truffle, and stuck in the
+meat, or through sweetbreads _au jus_, and slices of truffles. It makes
+a beautiful and good decoration.
+
+The skewers may also be run through chicken-combs, prepared as for
+_farce_; first through a comb, then through a slice of truffle, through
+a sweetbread, again through a slice of truffle, then through a
+craw-fish, and lastly a slice of truffle, or the reverse, according to
+fancy.
+
+_With Rice._--It is surrounded with rice croquettes, the drippings
+strained over the whole.
+
+We could put down some twenty or more other ways, but any one with an
+ordinary amount of natural capacity can do it, by varying the
+_garnitures_, _purées_, _decorations_, etc.
+
+Cold roast-beef is prepared like boiled beef.
+
+
+  BAKED.
+
+Place the meat in a bake-pan, with cold water about a quarter of an inch
+deep; spread salt, pepper, and a little butter on the meat, cover it
+with a piece of buttered paper; baste often over the paper, lest it
+should burn; keep the bottom of the pan covered with juice; if the water
+and juice are absorbed, add a little cold water and continue basting;
+turn over two or three times, but keep the paper on the top; if it is
+burnt, put on another piece. The paper keeps the top of the meat moist,
+and prevents it from burning or drying.
+
+When done, it is served like roasted beef.
+
+
+  FILLET.
+
+The tenderloin and even the sirloin are sometimes called, or rather
+known, under the name of fillet, when cooked. It comes from the French
+_filet_--tenderloin.
+
+Sirloin means surloin; like stock and several others, sirloin is purely
+English. The surloin is the upper part of the loin, as its prefix
+indicates; it is _surlonge_ in French.
+
+A fillet is generally larded with salt pork by means of a small brass
+larding-needle; the salt pork cut in strips to fit the needle (_see_
+Larding).
+
+If you use a tenderloin, trim off the fat. If it is a piece of ribs,
+prepared fillet-like, shape it like a fillet as near as possible; the
+rest is used as directed above.
+
+A piece of ribs is certainly cheaper, and can be had at any time, while
+the other is as difficult to procure as it is dear.
+
+_To lard it._--Have a towel in your left hand and place the meat over
+it, the most flat and smooth side up, holding it so that the upper part
+will present a somewhat convex surface, and commence larding at either
+end and finishing at the other, in this way:
+
+Run the needle through the upper part of the convex surface, commencing
+at about a quarter of an inch from the edge of one side, running through
+the meat a distance of about one inch and a half, about half an inch in
+depth at the middle, and the strip of salt pork sticking out at both
+ends; that is, where the needle was introduced into the meat, and where
+it came out of it. Repeat this till you have a row of strips across the
+meat, the strips being about one-third of an inch apart.
+
+Lard row after row in the same way, and till the whole flat side is
+covered; the ends of the strips of pork sticking out of each row being
+intermingled.
+
+_To cook it._--It may be roasted or baked exactly in the same way as
+directed above for roast and baked beef. It may also be improved in the
+same way.
+
+When cooked in either of the two above ways, it is served with its gravy
+only, or--
+  With fried potatoes.
+  With potato coquettes.
+  With truffles.
+  With tomatoes.
+  With quenelles.
+  With Madeira-sauce.
+  With green peas.
+
+The same as roast or baked beef above. It may also be decorated in the
+same way.
+
+A fillet is also cooked exactly like beef _à la mode_, with the
+exception that it does not require as long; for a large one, it requires
+only about three hours.
+
+When cooked thus, it is served with its gravy strained, and decorated
+with skewers, as above.
+
+_With Macaroni._--While the fillet is cooking, prepare a pound of
+macaroni au jus, and serve the fillet on the macaroni spread on a dish;
+the gravy of the fillet being mixed with the macaroni when both are
+done.
+
+_Fillet à la Brillat-Savarin._--Cook it in a pan as above, and serve it
+decorated with sweetbreads and slices of truffles, as described for
+roast-beef, and with a Champagne-sauce.
+
+_A la Chateaubriand._--This is prepared and served like the preceding
+one, with a _Madeira_ instead of a _Champagne_ sauce.
+
+_Sauté._--When cooked in a pan as directed above, cook mushrooms about
+ten minutes in the gravy, and serve mushrooms and gravy all around the
+meat.
+
+A fillet _sauté_ is always made with a tenderloin.
+
+As is seen by the above receipts, all the good pieces of beef may be
+prepared in the ways described, ribs as well as other pieces, and from
+the plainest to the most _recherché_ way, from the cheapest to the most
+costly manner.
+
+Several names are given to the different ways we have described, such as
+fillet _financière_ (fillet served with a ragout of chicken-combs),
+fillet Richelieu (fillet with half a dozen skewers), etc.
+
+_En Bellevue._--This is the best way to serve it cold. It may be served
+whole, or part of it, that is, what is left from the preceding dinner.
+For a supper or lunch, it is the most handy dish, as it can be prepared
+in advance. Make some meat jelly or calf's-foot jelly, put a thickness
+of about three-quarters of an inch of it in a tin dish or mould, large
+enough to hold the fillet; then place on ice to cool, and when congealed
+and firm enough, place the fillet on it, the larded side downward; fill
+now with jelly till the fillet is covered, and have a thickness of about
+three-quarters of an inch above it.
+
+The fillet must not touch the sides of the mould, but be perfectly
+enveloped in jelly. If the thickness of jelly is even on both sides and
+all around, it is much more sightly. When the jelly is perfectly
+congealed and firm, place a dish over the mould, turn upside down, and
+remove it. Serve as it is.
+
+As a tenderloin is very expensive and rather difficult to get, buy a
+fine piece of ribs, cut the fleshy part of the shape of a tenderloin,
+and prepare it as directed above; it makes an excellent and sightly
+dish. The bony part with the rest of the flesh is used to make broth.
+
+
+  RIBS.
+
+_With Vinegar._--Put two tablespoonfuls of fat in a saucepan, and set it
+on the fire; when melted, put the beef in; say a piece of three pounds,
+from the round, rump, or rib-piece; brown it on every side; add one gill
+of vinegar, salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper, cover the pan, and keep
+on a rather sharp fire for fifteen minutes; then add one carrot and one
+onion, both sliced, a stalk of thyme, three cloves, two bay-leaves, and
+six pepper-corns, a pint of broth, and same of water; boil gently till
+done; dish the meat, strain the sauce over it, and serve.
+
+Ribs may also be broiled like steaks, and served either with a _maître
+d'hôtel_, mushrooms, potatoes, or water-cress. The low cuts of beef are
+generally used to make broth, or stewed.
+
+
+  STEAKS.
+
+The best piece of beef for a steak is the tenderloin.
+
+What is called a porter-house steak is the tenderloin, sirloin, and
+other surrounding parts cut in slices.
+
+A steak should never be less than three-quarters of an inch in
+thickness.
+
+It should always be broiled; it is inferior in taste and flavor when
+cooked in a pan (_sauté_), or other utensil, but many persons cook it
+so, not having the necessary fire or utensil to broil; broiled or
+_sauté_, it is served alike.
+
+The same rules are applied to steaks of venison, pork, etc.;
+turtle-steaks are also prepared like beef-steaks.
+
+A good steak does not need any pounding; the object of pounding a steak
+is to break its fibres. A pounded steak may appear or taste more tender
+to a person not knowing or never having tasted a good steak, but an
+experienced palate cannot be deceived.
+
+It is better to broil before than over the fire. (_See_ Broiling.)
+
+To cook a steak in an oven or drum, or any other badly-invented machine
+or contrivance, is not to broil it, but to spoil it.
+
+_To make tender._--When cut, trimmed, salted, and peppered, put them in
+a bowl, and sprinkle some sweet-oil or melted butter over them; turn
+them over in the bowl every two or three hours for from six to twelve
+hours.
+
+_To cut and prepare._--Cut the meat in round or oval slices, as even as
+possible, of any size, about one inch in thickness, and trim off the
+fibres and thin skin that may be around. Do not cut off the fat, but
+flatten a little each slice with a chopper.
+
+_To broil._--when the steaks are cut and prepared as directed, they are
+slightly greased on both sides with lard or butter (if they have not
+been in a bowl with oil or butter before cooking them), placed on a
+warmed gridiron, set before or on a sharp fire, turned over once or
+twice, and taken off when rather underdone. Salt and pepper them, dish,
+spread a _maître d'hôtel_ over them, and serve very warm.
+
+Cooks and epicures differ about the turning over of steaks; also about
+broiling them with or without salt; some say that they must not be
+turned over twice, others are of opinion that they must be turned over
+two or three, and even more times; some say that they must be salted and
+peppered before broiling, others say they must not; we have tried the
+two ways many times, and did not find any difference; if there is any
+difference at all, it is in the quality of the meat, or in the person's
+taste, or in the cook's care.
+
+When the steak is served as above, place some fried potatoes all around,
+and serve hot. Instead of fried potatoes, put some water-cress all
+around, add a few drops of vinegar, and serve. The water-cress is to be
+put on raw and cold.
+
+When the steak is dished, spread some anchovy-butter on it instead of a
+_maître d'hôtel_, and serve warm also. It may also be served with
+lobster-butter instead of a _maître d'hôtel_. Steaks are also served
+with horse-radish butter, and surrounded with fried or _soufflé_
+potatoes.
+
+_With a Tomato-Sauce._--Broil and serve the steak as directed above, and
+serve it with a tomato-sauce instead of a _maître d'hôtel_.
+
+_With a Poivrade or Piquante Sauce._--Broil and serve with a _poivrade_
+or _piquante_ sauce, instead of a _maître d'hôtel_.
+
+_With Egg._--When the steaks are cut and prepared as directed, dip them
+in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, then broil, and serve them
+with either a _maître d'hôtel_ or tomato-sauce, or with potatoes, etc.
+
+_With Truffles._--Set a saucepan on the fire with one ounce of butter in
+it; as soon as melted add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and, when
+turning brown, add also about a gill of broth; stir again for five or
+six minutes, when mix three or four tablespoonfuls of good gravy with
+the rest; boil gently ten minutes, take from the fire; slice two or
+three truffles, mix them with the rest; add salt and pepper to taste;
+give one boil, turn over the steak which you have broiled as directed,
+and serve.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Proceed as for truffles in every particular, except
+that you use mushrooms.
+
+_Fancy Steak._--Cut the steak two or three inches thick, butter slightly
+both sides, lay it on a gridiron well greased and warmed; set it on a
+moderate fire and broil it well; to cook it through it must be turned
+over many times, on account of its thickness. Serve like another steak,
+with a _maître d'hôtel_, _poivrade_, potatoes, or water-cress, etc.
+
+
+  BOILED BEEF.
+
+This is understood to be beef that has been used to make broth--a
+rump-piece or a rib-piece, boned and tied with twine before cooking it.
+
+[Illustration: _a,_ skewer; _b,_ carrot; _c,_ turnip; _d,_ beef; _e,_
+carrots and turnips.]
+
+_With Carrots and Turnips._--Remove the twine, and place the piece of
+beef on the middle of a dish, with carrots and turnips, cut with a
+fruit-corer, prepared _au jus_ or glazed, and arranged all around it;
+also, some skewers run through pieces of carrot and turnip, and then
+stuck in the piece of beef. (See cut p. 174.) Serve warm.
+
+_With Brussels Cabbage, or Sprouts._--Serve the beef as above,
+surrounded with sprouts _au jus_, and also ornamented with skewers run
+through sprouts, with a piece of turnip between each.
+
+_In Bourgeoise._--Serve the piece of beef warm, decorated if handy, and
+surrounded with fried potatoes cut with a vegetable spoon or in fillets,
+and gravy spread over the whole.
+
+If not decorated, a few sprigs of parsley may be spread on the beef.
+
+_With Onions._--Serve the beef as above, and surround it with glazed
+onions.
+
+_With Celery._--When served as above, the meat is surrounded with a
+_purée_ of celery.
+
+_With Cauliflowers._--Serve warm, with a garniture of cauliflowers all
+around. It may be decorated with skewers.
+
+_With Chestnuts._--Glaze chestnuts as for dessert; run the skewers
+through a chestnut first, then through a fried potato, and then through
+a slice of carrot, and stick one at each end of the piece of beef; put
+chestnuts all around, spread some gravy over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Proceed as for _croquettes_ of chicken.
+
+_Hollandaise._--Cut the meat in fillets and put it in a saucepan, with
+about two ounces of fat or butter to a pound of meat; set on the fire
+and stir for ten minutes. Then add a tablespoonful of flour and stir
+about one minute, with warm water enough to half cover the meat, and
+boil about five minutes, stirring now and then.
+
+Mix together in a bowl two yolks of eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and
+two or three tablespoonfuls of the sauce from the saucepan in which the
+beef is; turn the mixture into the saucepan, stir and mix, add salt and
+pepper to taste, give one boil, and serve warm.
+
+_Broiled._--Cut the meat in slices about one inch in thickness, broil,
+and serve like steaks.
+
+_Au Gratin._--Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
+when melted sprinkle into it two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, two or
+three mushrooms chopped, a teaspoonful of chopped onions, same of
+parsley, a pinch of allspice, salt, and pepper; stir for about two
+minutes, add a little broth to make the whole rather liquid. Cut one
+pound of boiled beef in slices, place them in a tin or silver dish, turn
+the mixture over them, dust with bread-crumbs; put half a dozen pieces
+of butter here and there on the top, and bake for about fifteen minutes.
+
+Take from the oven when done, add a few drops of lemon juice all over,
+and serve warm in the dish in which it was baked.
+
+With a _maître d'hôtel_, _piquante_, _Mayonnaise_, _Robert_, _ravigote_,
+_Tartar_, or _tomato_ sauce.
+
+Cut it in slices, place them on a dish, spread on them some chopped
+parsley and slices of pickled cucumbers, and send thus to the table,
+with either of the above sauces in a saucer to be used with it.
+
+
+  IN MIROTON.
+
+Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan (this is for about
+two pounds), and set it on the fire; when melted, put in it four
+middling-sized onions, cut in slices when nearly cooked, sprinkle on
+them a pinch of flour, and stir till it takes a golden color; then add
+half a glass of white wine, and as much of broth, also salt, pepper, and
+a little grated nutmeg; boil until well cooked, and till the sauce is
+reduced; then add the boiled beef, cut in slices, and leave it fifteen
+minutes; dish it, pour on a few drops of vinegar, and serve.
+
+_Hushed._--Proceed exactly as for _miroton_, except that the beef is cut
+in strips or chopped, and that no wine is used.
+
+
+  IN SALAD.
+
+Cut it in very thin and short slices, and place them on a dish with
+chopped parsley; put in a saucer sweet-oil and vinegar, according to the
+quantity of beef you have, two tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar,
+salt, pepper, and some mustard; beat the whole a little, pour on the
+slices, and serve.
+
+
+  CORNED BEEF.
+
+Corned beef is generally boiled. Soak the corned beef in cold water for
+some time, according to how salt it is.
+
+Set it on the fire, covered with cold water, and boil gently till done.
+
+_With Cabbage._--Blanch the cabbage for about five minutes, and drain.
+Then put it to cook with the corned beef when the latter is about half
+done; serve both on the same dish, or separately, according to taste.
+
+Corned beef, when boiled as above, without cabbage, can be served and
+decorated, in every way, like boiled beef. It certainly makes sightly as
+well as good dishes for a family dinner.
+
+A piece of corned beef, surrounded with a garniture as we have
+described above, decorated with skewers, is very often served as a
+_relevé_ at an extra dinner.
+
+_Cold Corned Beef._--A whole piece, or part of it, may be served _en
+Bellevue_, the same as a _fillet en Bellevue_; it is also excellent.
+
+
+  TONGUE.
+
+Clean and blanch it for about ten minutes--till the white skin can be
+easily removed. After ten minutes boiling, try if it comes off; if not,
+boil a little longer, then skin it well.
+
+_To boil._--When skinned, put it in your soup-kettle with the beef,
+etc., to make broth, and leave it till done. When boiled, the tongue may
+be served and decorated exactly the same as boiled beef, in every way.
+
+_Stewed._--Cut square fillets of bacon, which dredge in a mixture of
+chopped parsley, cives, salt, pepper, and a little allspice; lard the
+tongue with the fillets. Put in a crockery stewpan two ounces of bacon
+cut in dice, four sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, one of sweet basil,
+two bay-leaves, a clove of garlic, two cloves, two carrots cut in
+pieces, four small onions, salt, and pepper; lay the tongue on the
+whole, wet with half a glass of white wine and a glass of broth; set on
+a moderate fire, and simmer about five hours--keep it well covered; then
+put the tongue on a dish, strain the sauce on it, and serve. It is a
+delicious dish.
+
+It may also be served with vegetables around, or with tomato-sauce.
+
+_Another way._--When prepared as above directed, put it on the fire with
+the same seasonings as the preceding one; simmer four hours and take
+from the fire; put the tongue on a dish and let it cool, then place it
+on the spit before a good fire, and finish the cooking; serve it warm
+with an oil, or _piquante_ sauce.
+
+If any is left of either of the two, put in a pan the next day, wet with
+a little broth, set on the fire, and when warm serve it on a _purée_; do
+not allow it to boil.
+
+
+  BRAIN.
+
+Soak it in lukewarm water and clean well, so as to have it free from
+blood, fibres, and thin skin; then soak it again in cold water for
+twelve hours in winter and six in summer. Put in a crockery stewpan one
+ounce of bacon cut in slices, one carrot cut in pieces, two sprigs of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, four small onions cut in
+slices, a teaspoonful of chopped cives, salt, pepper, a pint of white
+wine, as much of broth, and then the brain; set on a moderate fire for
+half an hour and take it off; dish the brain and place it in a warm
+place; then strain the sauce, put it back on the fire with the brain in
+it, add two or three mushrooms cut in pieces, leave on the fire from ten
+to fifteen minutes, and serve it, parted in two, with fried parsley
+around.
+
+_Another way._--When the brain is cleaned and prepared as above, cut it
+in eight pieces. Mix well together a little flour, chopped parsley and
+cives, also a pinch of allspice; roll the pieces of brain in it, so as
+to allow the mixture to adhere to them; have some butter in a frying-pan
+on the fire, and when hot put the pieces of brain in it; fry gently, and
+serve with fried parsley around.
+
+
+  HEART.
+
+Soak it in lukewarm water for two hours, free it from blood and skin,
+drain and wipe dry; then stuff it with sausage-meat, to which you have
+added three or four onions chopped fine, put it in a rather quick oven,
+or on the spit before a good fire (if on the spit, envelop it with
+buttered paper), basting from time to time; it takes about an hour and a
+half to cook a middling-sized one; serve it with a _vinaigrette_,
+_piquante_, _poivrade_, or _ravigote_ sauce.
+
+It may also be fried with butter, and cut in slices, but it is not as
+good as in the above way; it generally becomes hard in frying.
+
+
+  KIDNEYS.
+
+First split the kidneys in four pieces, trim off as carefully as
+possible the sinews and fat that are inside, then cut in small pieces.
+
+_Sauté._--The quicker this is done the better the kidney. For a whole
+one put about two ounces of butter in a frying-pan and set it on a very
+sharp fire, toss it round so as to melt the butter as fast as possible,
+but without allowing it to blacken; as soon as melted, turn the cut
+kidney in, stir now and then with a wooden spoon for about three
+minutes, then add a tablespoonful of flour, stir again the same as
+before for about one minute, when add a gill of white wine and about one
+of broth; stir again now and then till the kidney is rather underdone,
+and serve immediately.
+
+If the kidney is allowed to boil till perfectly done, it will very
+seldom be tender.
+
+It may be done with water instead of wine and broth; in that case, add a
+few drops of lemon-juice just before serving it.
+
+Prepare and serve it also as calf's-kidney, in every way as directed for
+the same.
+
+
+  LIVER.
+
+Cut the liver in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, sprinkle on
+them salt and pepper, place them on a gridiron, and set on a sharp
+fire; turn over only once, and serve rather underdone, with butter and
+chopped parsley, kneaded together and spread between the slices.
+
+A few drops of lemon-juice may be added.
+
+_Another way._--When the liver is cut in slices, as above, put a piece
+of butter in a frying-pan on the fire, and when melted, lay the slices
+in; turn over only once, then serve, with salt, pepper, vinegar, and
+chopped parsley.
+
+
+  TAIL.
+
+Cut the tail at the joint, so as to make as many pieces as there are
+joints; throw the pieces in boiling water for fifteen minutes, and drain
+them. When cold and dry, put them in a saucepan with a bay-leaf, two
+onions, with a clove stuck in each, two sprigs of parsley, and one of
+thyme, a clove of garlic, salt, pepper, half a wine-glass of white wine,
+and a few thin slices of salt pork; cover with broth or water, and set
+on a moderate fire for two hours. Dish the pieces, strain the sauce on
+them, and serve with a garniture of cabbage, or with any _purée_.
+
+
+  TRIPE.
+
+_How to clean and prepare._--Scrape and wash it well several times in
+boiling water, changing the water every time, then put in very cold
+water for about twelve hours, changing the water two or three times;
+place it in a pan, cover it with cold water; season with parsley, cives,
+onions, one or two cloves of garlic, cloves, salt, and pepper; boil
+gently five hours, take out and drain.
+
+In case the water should boil away, add more.
+
+You may save all the trouble of cleaning and preparing, by buying it
+ready prepared, as it is generally sold in cities.
+
+_Broiled._--When prepared, dip it in lukewarm butter, roll in
+bread-crumbs, place on a gridiron, and set it on a moderate fire; turn
+over as many times as is necessary to broil it well, and serve with a
+_vinaigrette_, _piquante_, or Tartar sauce; also with a tomato-sauce.
+
+_Stewed._--Put in a stewpan two ounces of salt pork, cut in dice, three
+carrots cut in slices, eight small onions, four cloves, two bay-leaves,
+two cloves of garlic, a piece of nutmeg, four sprigs of parsley, two of
+thyme, a dozen stalks of cives, six pepper-corns, the fourth part of an
+ox-foot cut in four pieces, salt, pepper, about two ounces of ham cut in
+dice, then three pounds of double tripe on the whole; spread two ounces
+of fat bacon cut in thin slices on the top; wet with half white wine and
+half water, or water only if you choose; put the cover on, and if not
+air-tight, put some paste around; set in a slow oven for six hours, then
+take the tripe out, strain the sauce, skim off the fat when cool, then
+put the sauce and tripe again in your pan, warm well, and serve in
+crockery plates or bowls placed on chafing-dishes, as it is necessary to
+keep it warm while eating. It is good with water only, but better with
+half wine. This is also called _à la mode de Caen_.
+
+_In Poulette._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, cut one pound of
+tripe in strips about one and a half inches broad, then cut again
+contrariwise, so as to make small fillets. Put one ounce of butter in a
+saucepan with half a tablespoonful of flour, and mix cold; add two gills
+of water, mix again, set on the fire, stir now and then, give one boil,
+put the tripe in, salt and pepper to taste; boil two minutes and dish
+the whole; put a teaspoonful of chopped parsley all over, and serve hot.
+
+_Aux Fines Herbes._--Broil the tripe, and serve it with sauce _fines
+herbes_.
+
+Tripe may be bought pickled; it is then served at breakfast and lunch.
+
+
+  SMOKED BEEF'S TONGUE.
+
+Soak the smoked tongue in cold water for at least three hours, change
+the water once or twice during the process. Then take off the thin skin
+or strip around if there is any; put the tongue in a saucepan with two
+sprigs of thyme, two of parsley, a bay-leaf, two cloves, six small
+onions, and a clove of garlic; fill the pan with cold water, and let
+simmer about six hours. If the water is boiling away, add more. Take
+from the fire, let cool as it is, then take it out of the water; clean
+it, let dry, and serve it when cold.
+
+Cut the tongue, when prepared as above, either in slices or in strips,
+and use for sandwiches, or serve it whole, with a cucumber, _piquante_,
+_poivrade_, or tomato sauce, at breakfast or lunch. It may also be
+served in _vinaigrette_.
+
+When prepared as directed above, serve it as a fillet of beef _en
+Bellevue_, for supper, lunch, or breakfast. It makes a fine and
+delicious dish.
+
+It is used also to stuff boned turkeys and other birds, as directed in
+those receipts; always boil it as directed above, before using it.
+
+When served with any of the above sauces, it may be decorated with
+skewers the same as boiled beef.
+
+_Larded._--When boiled, lard it with salt pork, and bake it for about
+one hour in a moderately heated oven, and serve it with the same sauces
+as above.
+
+Cut in slices and served with parsley, it is a _hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+
+
+
+  MUTTON.
+
+  HOW TO SELECT.
+
+
+You may be sure that mutton is good when the flesh is rather black, and
+the fat white; if the fat breaks easily, it is young.
+
+The wether is much superior to the ewe.
+
+You will know if a leg of mutton comes from a wether, if there is a
+large and hard piece of fat on one side at the larger and upper end; if
+from a ewe, that part is merely a kind of skin, with a little fat on it.
+
+
+  ROASTED.
+
+A piece of mutton to roast must not be too fresh, it is much more tender
+when the meat is rather seasoned, but not tainted, or what is sometimes
+called "high." When on the spit, place it near the fire, baste
+immediately with a little melted butter, and then with the drippings. As
+soon as you notice that a kind of crust or coating has formed around the
+piece of meat, remove it a little from the fire by degrees; and continue
+basting till done. The quicker the crust is formed, though without
+burning the meat, the more juicy and tender it will be.
+
+Roast mutton, like roast beef, is better served rather underdone, but
+should be a little more done than beef. When properly roasted, the meat,
+whatever piece it may be, either a loin or saddle, a leg, shoulder, or
+a breast, may be served with its gravy only; that is, with what is in
+the dripping-pan after having removed all the fat, also on a _soubise_
+or on a _purée_ of sorrel. The above pieces may also be served in the
+following ways:
+
+_With Potatoes._--When dished, surround the meat with potatoes, either
+fried, mashed, or in _croquettes_.
+
+_With Quenelles._--Dish the meat, place half a dozen _quenelles_ around
+it, and decorate it with skewers which you have run through a _quenelle_
+and then through a craw-fish and stuck in the meat.
+
+_With Carrots._--When dished, put all around the meat carrots _au jus_,
+or glazed and cut with a vegetable spoon.
+
+_With Spinach._--Spinach _au jus_ when done is spread on the dish, the
+meat is put on it, and served warm. Do the same with a _purée_ of
+cauliflowers.
+
+
+  BAKED.
+
+All the above pieces are baked as well as roasted; and when done, served
+exactly in the same and every way as when roasted.
+
+Put the meat in a baking-pan with a little butter spread over it; cover
+the bottom of the pan with cold water, then put in a quick oven. After
+it has been in the oven for about fifteen minutes, baste and place a
+piece of buttered paper on the top of the meat. If the bottom of the pan
+is getting dry, add a little more water, but it is seldom the case
+except with inferior meat. When you see rather too much fat in the pan,
+take from the oven, turn the fat off, put cold water instead, and put
+back in the oven to finish the cooking. If the paper burns, put on
+another piece; but by basting often over the paper, it will remain
+pretty long before burning.
+
+With a small knife or a skewer you ascertain when done enough or to your
+liking; never cook by guess or by hearsay; the oven may be quicker one
+day than another, or slower; the meat may be more tender, or more hard;
+remember that if you cook by guess (we mean, to put down, as a matter of
+course, that it takes so many hours, or so many minutes, to bake this or
+that), and stick to it, you will fail nine times out of ten. When done,
+serve as directed above.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Make and serve as chicken _croquettes_.
+
+_In Haricot or Ragout._--Take a neck or breast piece of mutton, which
+cut in pieces about two inches long and one broad. Put them in a
+saucepan (say three pounds) with two ounces of butter, set on the fire
+and stir occasionally till turning rather brown, then add a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir for one minute, cover with cold water, add
+one onion whole, salt, a bunch of seasonings composed of four sprigs of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove, one clove of garlic,
+chopped fine. Boil gently till about two-thirds done, stirring now and
+then; add potatoes, peeled, quartered, and cut, as far as possible, of
+the shape of a carpel of orange. The proportion is, about as many pieces
+of potatoes as of meat. Boil again gently till done, place the pieces of
+meat in the middle of the dish, the potatoes around, the juice or sauce
+over the whole, and serve. Skim off the fat, if any, before turning the
+sauce over the rest.
+
+
+  BREAST BOILED.
+
+Put the breast entire in a saucepan, with a sprig of thyme, two of
+parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, salt, and pepper, cover with water, set
+on the fire, boil gently till cooked, and then drain. Put in a
+frying-pan three tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley, salt, and pepper; when hot lay the breast in and fry it all
+around for five minutes; then take it off, roll it in bread-crumbs,
+place it on a gridiron, and set on a good fire for five minutes; turn it
+over once only, then serve it with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, or tomato
+sauce. It may also be served on a _purée_ of sorrel.
+
+
+  NECK BROILED.
+
+Prepare and serve exactly the same as a breast broiled.
+
+A breast or a neck piece broiled may be served on a _soubise_. It may
+also be served with a _maître d'hôtel_ or mushroom sauce, also with a
+_piquante_ or any other sharp sauce.
+
+
+  CHOPS.
+
+_Broiled._--Trim and flatten the chops with a chopper, sprinkle salt and
+pepper on both sides, dip them in melted butter, place them on a
+gridiron, and set on a sharp fire, turn over two or three times to broil
+properly, and when done, serve them around a dish, one lapping over the
+other, etc., and serve with the gravy. It takes about twelve minutes to
+cook with a good fire.
+
+_Another way._--When trimmed and flattened, dip them in beaten egg, roll
+them in bread-crumbs and broil, either as they are, or enveloped in
+buttered paper, and serve them with a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce.
+
+_Sautés._--When trimmed and flattened, fry them with a little butter on
+both sides; then take the chops from the pan and put them in a warm
+place. Leave in the pan only a tablespoonful of fat, add to it three
+times as much broth, a teaspoonful of parsley and green onions, two
+shallots, two pickled cucumbers, all chopped fine, and a pinch of
+allspice; give one boil, pour the whole on the chops, also the juice of
+half a lemon, and serve.
+
+_The same, with Vegetables._--Put in a frying-pan a piece of butter the
+size of two walnuts for four chops, set on a good fire, and when hot lay
+the chops in, after having flattened them with a chopper, and having
+sprinkled salt and pepper on both sides; add a clove, and a teaspoonful
+of chopped parsley and green onions; leave thus five minutes, turn over
+once or twice; then add also half a wine-glass of broth, same of white
+wine, and finish the cooking. Take the chops off the pan and put them in
+a warm place. Boil the sauce in the pan ten minutes, turn it on the
+chops, put a garniture of vegetables around, and serve. Throw away the
+clove just before serving.
+
+_Another way._--Have a piece of butter the size of an egg for eight
+chops in a crockery vessel, and set it on a good fire; when melted take
+from the fire, lay the chops in, after having flattened them; then cover
+them with a sheet of buttered paper; place the vessel in a rather hot
+oven, and when cooked serve them on a _maître d'hôtel_, _provençale_, or
+tomato sauce. They may also be served on a _purée_ of sorrel, or one of
+potatoes.
+
+_The same, in Papillote._--Cut the chops rather thin, beat them gently
+and flatten them; then proceed as for veal cutlets in _papillotes_ in
+every particular.
+
+_Financière._--Broil the chops, either with or without egg and crumbs,
+and serve them with a _financière_ garniture.
+
+_Soubise._--The chops are either broiled or fried; either broiled only
+dipped in lukewarm butter or in beaten egg and crumbs and then served on
+a _soubise_. A little lemon-juice may be added when they are on the
+dish.
+
+_Jardinière._--Cut two carrots and two turnips with a vegetable spoon
+and set on the fire with cold water and salt; boil gently till tender,
+and drain. Boil also in the same way, in another pan and till tender,
+two tablespoonfuls of green peas, or string-beans cut in pieces, and
+drain also. Then put carrots, turnips, peas, or beans, back on the fire,
+in the same pan with a little gravy and broth, enough to cover them,
+salt, and pepper; boil gently five minutes; then put the chops in after
+being fried as directed below; boil another five minutes; take from the
+fire, place the chops around the dish, one lapping over the other, and
+so that an empty place is left in the middle; turn the carrots, turnips,
+and peas, with the sauce in that empty place, and serve. Salt and pepper
+the chops on both sides; fry them in a little butter till about
+three-quarters done; then take off and put with the vegetables as
+directed above. They may be broiled instead of fried, which is better.
+
+_A la Princesse._--Trim the chops as usual and salt and pepper both
+sides. Chop very fine a piece of lean veal about half a pound for six or
+eight chops, according to size, then pound it and mix it with half a
+teaspoonful of flour, a pinch of nutmeg, salt, pepper, a yolk of egg,
+two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs and one ounce of butter. If too firm
+the butter must be melted so as to mix better. Put the mixture in a
+saucepan, set on a good fire, stir for ten minutes, and take off. Then
+grease the paste-board slightly with butter, put a teaspoonful of the
+mixture here and there on it, roll and make small balls of it, drop them
+in boiling broth or water, boiling about fifteen minutes, and take off
+with a skimmer. Dip the chops in melted butter, then in beaten eggs, and
+roll in bread-crumbs; fry them with a little butter. Fry the balls also.
+Place the chops on the dish, the bones toward the edge, and the balls
+between the chops; serve warm. A few balls may be placed in the middle.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Broil and serve them with a _purée_ of mushrooms, or
+with a mushroom garniture.
+
+Mutton chops, broiled, may be served with every kind of butter, every
+garniture, and every sauce, according to taste; they may also be served
+with every _purée_.
+
+A French cook once said he could serve mutton _chops_ in three hundred
+ways, _apples_ in two hundred ways, and _eggs_ in four hundred ways. The
+culinary science and art is advanced enough to-day to double the above
+figures, and have plenty to spare.
+
+
+  LEG.
+
+Besides being prepared as directed for roast mutton, a leg of mutton,
+roasted or baked, may be served in the following ways:
+
+Boil white beans and drain them as directed, then put them on the fire
+with the drippings of the leg of mutton for ten minutes, stirring now
+and then, and serve them with it. They may also be kept in the
+dripping-pan for ten minutes, when boiled and drained, before the leg is
+done. If the leg of mutton is baked, set them on the fire for about ten
+minutes, with the gravy, stirring occasionally. Serve either on the same
+or on a separate dish.
+
+_With Currant Jelly._--Roast or bake the leg of mutton, and serve it
+with currant jelly or with a _purée_.
+
+_Provençale._--With a sharp-pointed knife, make a small cut in the leg
+of mutton here and there, and large enough to stick into the cut a clove
+of garlic. Make as many cuts as you please, from six to twenty,
+according to taste, and in each cut stick a clove of garlic. When
+prepared thus, roast or bake, and serve it with either of the following
+sauces: _piquante_, _poivrade_, _ravigote_, _rémolade_, Robert, shallot,
+Tartar, tomato, and in _vinaigrette_.
+
+_Decorated._--A leg of mutton may be decorated the same as a fillet of
+beef.
+
+_Stewed._--Take the large bone out, leaving the bone at the smaller end
+as a handle; cut off also the bone below the knuckle, and fix it with
+skewers; then put it in a stewpan with a pinch of allspice, four onions,
+two cloves, two carrots cut in four pieces each, a small bunch of
+parsley, two bay-leaves, three sprigs of thyme, salt, pepper, two ounces
+of bacon cut in slices, a quarter of a pint of broth, and water enough
+just to cover it; set on a good fire, and after one hour of boiling add
+a liquor-glass of French brandy. Let simmer then for about five hours,
+in all about six hours; then dish it, strain the sauce on it, and serve.
+
+We would advise those who have never tasted of a leg of mutton cooked as
+above, to try it.
+
+It may be served also with white beans cooked in water and fried in
+butter, or on fried potatoes.
+
+_The next day._--If you have a piece left for the next day, cut it in
+thin slices after dinner, place the slices on a dish, with parsley
+under, in the middle, and above, and keep in a cold place.
+
+A while before dinner you put in a stewpan a piece of butter (the
+quantity to be according to the quantity of meat), and set it on a good
+fire; when melted, sprinkle in, gradually, a little flour, stirring with
+a wooden spoon; when of a proper thickness, and of a brownish color, add
+a glass of broth, salt, pepper, a few pickled cucumbers cut in slices,
+and two or three mushrooms; boil ten minutes; lay the slices of meat in,
+subdue the fire, simmer twenty minutes, and serve.
+
+_The same, in another way._--Chop fine the slices of leg of mutton, put
+a piece of butter in a stewpan, and set it on the fire; when melted,
+place the chopped meat in, keep stirring with a wooden spoon for about
+ten minutes; then add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, salt,
+pepper, and a pinch of allspice; simmer fifteen minutes, and serve with
+fried eggs all around the dish.
+
+_Boiled._--Set a saucepan on the fire with cold water enough to cover
+the leg of mutton, add salt; at the first boil put the leg of mutton in,
+wrapped up in a towel. Boil gently till done. For a middling-sized one,
+it takes about two hours. Remove the towel, dish the leg of mutton,
+spread a caper-sauce over it, and serve hot. The sauce may also be
+served in a boat or saucer.
+
+_Cold._--What is left of it may be prepared like cold mutton in
+vinaigrette.
+
+
+  SHOULDER.
+
+_Shoulder boned._--Split the shoulder just in the middle, on the inside,
+lengthwise and following the middle of the bones; remove the flat bone
+at the larger end first. This is easily done by scraping the meat off
+the bone on both sides, and then pulling it off. Do the same with the
+remaining bone. Spread the shoulder open on the table, the inside up,
+salt and pepper it, then spread on it the same stuffing as for a chicken
+stuffed with sausage-meat. Roll the shoulder round, tie it with twine,
+and roast or bake it. When roasted or baked, serve with the gravy.
+
+_On a Purée._--Bone and roll the shoulder as above directed, but do not
+stuff it; roast or bake it, and serve it on a _purée_ of potatoes,
+beans, peas, lentils, or any other vegetable; place the shoulder in the
+middle of a dish, cut it in slices, and place them all around the
+_purée_, one lapping over the other; turn the gravy over the whole
+through a strainer, and serve hot.
+
+_With a Sauce._--When baked or roasted as above, with or without
+stuffing, serve it with a _piquante_, _ravigote_, or _Robert_ sauce.
+
+_Boiled._--Boil, and serve it with a caper-sauce, the same as the leg.
+
+
+  SADDLE.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve the saddle in the same way as the leg--roasted
+or baked, warm or cold.
+
+
+  COLD MUTTON.
+
+_Served cold, à la Vinaigrette._--A shoulder of mutton, roasted or
+baked, after being boned, makes a handsome dish served cold. Cut any
+piece of cold mutton that you may have, in thin slices, as evenly as
+possible. Place a paste-cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, in
+the middle of an oval dish; then place the slices of meat all around the
+dish, one slice lapping over another; the dish being oval, the slices of
+meat will touch the paste-cutter on two sides, but there will be two
+empty places on the two other sides, which you fill with hard-boiled
+white of egg chopped fine, and hard-boiled yolk of egg chopped fine
+also; they must not be mixed, and the yolk must be farther from the
+paste-cutter, the white touching it. Put a string of chopped yolk of egg
+all around the meat, and outside of it one of chopped white of egg
+around the yolk, and one of chopped parsley around the white. Remove the
+paste-cutter, and put a rose, or two or three pinks, in its place, or a
+small bunch of violets. Place one or three capers on each small heap of
+yolk of egg that is on the middle of the dish, and also some capers here
+and there on the string of white of egg.
+
+Place a rose at each end of the dish, as indicated in the cut opposite;
+six radishes around the dish, also as indicated in the cut, and you have
+a dish as sightly as can be made, and an excellent one, too. Serve with
+the following sauce in a boat or saucer: Put in a bowl half a
+teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt; then pour one or two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar on, little by little, beating with a fork at
+the same time; again, three or four tablespoonfuls of oil, and in the
+same way; and when the whole is well mixed, serve.
+
+[Illustration: A, two roses, one at each end; B, six radishes around; C,
+slices of meat; D, eggs; E, yolks of eggs; F, parsley.]
+
+
+  SHEEP'S BRAIN.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve as calf's brain.
+
+
+  FEET.
+
+_Broiled._--Throw them in boiling water for ten minutes, clean and
+scrape off the hair and take out the large bone. Put in a saucepan a
+bay-leaf, one clove, a tablespoonful of vinegar, a clove of garlic, two
+sprigs of parsley, two green onions, salt, pepper, a piece of butter the
+size of two walnuts, half a pint of broth, then a dozen feet on the
+whole; set on a slow fire, simmer one hour, stir now and then, take from
+the fire and let cool. Then dip each foot in beaten egg, and roll it in
+bread-crumbs; place them on a gridiron; turn over to broil both sides
+properly, and serve them with the sauce in which they have been cooked,
+after having strained it. They may also be served on a _piquante_,
+_poivrade_, _ravigote_, or _Robert_ sauce.
+
+_In Poulette._--Prepare and clean them as directed above. Put in a
+saucepan four ounces of salt pork cut in dice, two ounces of lard, salt,
+and white pepper; when warm, add three sprigs of parsley, two of thyme,
+a bay-leaf, one clove, four onions, and one carrot, cut in slices, a
+quarter of a lemon, also cut in slices, free from rind and seed, two
+tablespoonfuls of flour; this last must be added by sprinkling it little
+by little, stirring the while with a wooden spoon; five minutes after,
+place the feet in, cover the whole with warm water, and let simmer
+gently for five or six hours. After that time see if the meat can be
+easily detached from the bones, and if so, they are cooked; if not,
+leave them a little longer, and take from the fire as soon as it is
+easily detached, but do not detach it. Put in a stewpan a piece of
+butter the size of two walnuts; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir with a wooden spoon, then put the feet in,
+add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, a little piece of
+nutmeg, salt, pepper, and two or three mushrooms cut in slices or
+pieces; wet with broth; simmer half an hour, take from the fire, and
+throw away the piece of nutmeg; mix with the whole two yolks of eggs
+well beaten and a tablespoonful of vinegar, and serve.
+
+
+  SHEEP'S KIDNEYS, BROILED.
+
+Split them in two, and put them in cold water for five minutes; trim off
+the pellicle or thin skin, run a skewer through, sprinkle salt and
+pepper on, place them on the gridiron, and set on a good fire; turn
+over, and when broiled, serve them with a piece of butter and chopped
+parsley kneaded together, and placed on each kidney; add also a few
+drops of lemon-juice.
+
+You may also, when broiled, serve them on a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce.
+
+_The same, in Brochette._--Proceed as above in every particular, except
+that you place the kidneys on the spit instead of on the gridiron. Serve
+them in the same way.
+
+_The same, with Champagne._--Cut the kidneys in slices, each in ten or
+twelve pieces. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of two
+walnuts, and set it on the fire; when melted, add a teaspoonful of
+chopped parsley, same of mushrooms, a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt,
+pepper, and the kidneys; keep tossing till they become stiff, then
+sprinkle on them a saltspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon
+the while; add also a wine-glass of Champagne, or of good white wine;
+subdue the fire, and let simmer till cooked; take from the fire, add
+about one ounce of fresh butter, and the juice of half a lemon, and
+serve. This is a very delicate dish.
+
+
+  SHEEP'S TAILS.
+
+Put in a stewpan two ounces of bacon cut in slices, with a bay-leaf, two
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, one clove, six small onions, one carrot
+cut in four pieces, then about six tails; cover the whole with broth and
+white wine, half of each; add salt and pepper. Place the pan in a
+moderately heated oven; it will take about four hours to cook them.
+After that time, take the tails from the pan, and put them in a warm
+place, then strain the sauce in which they have cooked, skim off the fat
+if too much of it, put the sauce back in the pan, and set on the fire;
+let it reduce till rather thick, place the tails on a _purée_, turn the
+sauce on them, and serve.
+
+
+  SHEEP'S TONGUES.
+
+Soak the tongues in cold water for two hours in winter, and one in
+summer, and drain. Throw them in boiling water, and leave till you can
+easily take the skin off; then skin and clean well, split in two
+lengthwise, and let cool. Put in a stewpan two ounces of bacon cut in
+thin slices, a bay-leaf, two sprigs of thyme, four of parsley, two
+cloves, three green onions and six small red or white ones, one carrot
+cut in four pieces, salt and pepper, then the tongues; add also half a
+pint of broth, same of water, same of white wine; set in a moderately
+heated oven, and simmer about four hours; have the stewpan covered as
+nearly air-tight as possible. Then take the tongues from the pan and
+drain them; knead well together two ounces of fresh butter, with two
+teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little salt and allspice; spread some
+on each of the tongues as soon as they are cold; envelop each in oiled
+paper, broil them gently on a slow fire, and serve with the paper.
+
+You may also when prepared and cooked as above directed, and instead of
+broiling them, place a _purée_ on a dish, and serve them on a _purée_,
+pouring on the whole the sauce in which they have cooked, and straining
+it at the same time.
+
+They are really more delicate when broiled.
+
+
+  LAMB.
+
+_To select._--The flesh must be like that of mutton, rather black, and
+the fat white.
+
+There is no difference in the wether and ewe. The shorter the quarters
+are the better the meat, and the fore as well as the hind quarter. With
+the exception that the breast-piece is prepared also in _épigramme_, and
+that it is cut in quarters instead of dividing it like mutton, lamb may
+be prepared in the same and every way like mutton. The quarters may be
+prepared like shoulder, leg, and saddle of mutton.
+
+_Chops_ may be cut and prepared the same as mutton-chops.
+
+_Fore-Quarter._--According to the opinion of a great many epicures, the
+fore-quarter is the best part of the lamb; but, as we have previously
+said, every one to his liking.
+
+Lard it slightly, and envelop it with buttered paper, place it upon the
+spit before a good fire; when done take from the fire, and take the
+paper off, sprinkle on it salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; put back on
+the spit before a sharp fire, just long enough to allow it to take a
+fine color; then take off, run a knife under the shoulder to make a
+small hole, pour _maître d'hôtel_ sauce in it, and serve either as it
+is, with its gravy, or on a _purée_ of sorrel.
+
+_To bake it._--Put it in a baking-pan, spread a little salt, pepper, and
+butter over it; cover it with a piece of buttered paper; have the bottom
+of the pan covered with cold water and put in a warm oven, baste often
+till done. If the paper burns, put on another piece. Run a small knife
+or a skewer into the meat, to ascertain when properly done.
+
+It may be served with the gravy only, after having removed the fat, or
+with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, or _maître d'hôtel_ sauce.
+
+It is also served with a garniture of mushrooms or onions, or with a
+_macédoine_, or on a _purée_ of spinach, or of sorrel.
+
+_Hind-Quarter._--Throw it in boiling water for five minutes, and drain.
+Put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg, and set on the
+fire; when melted, mix in it a tablespoonful of flour; after which, pour
+in, little by little, a pint and a half of boiling water, stirring with
+a wooden spoon all the time; then put the meat in the pan, add four
+onions, a bay-leaf, two cloves, three sprigs of parsley, two of thyme,
+salt, and pepper; about fifteen minutes before it is done, add two or
+three mushrooms cut in slices, take from the fire when cooked, place the
+meat on a dish with the mushrooms and onions around, or if preferred,
+without either; strain the sauce on the meat, and serve.
+
+If the sauce is not thick enough, mix the yolk of an egg in it just
+before serving.
+
+_Roasted._--Roast and serve the hind-quarter in the same way as directed
+for the fore-quarter.
+
+_Baked._--Bake and serve it also in the same and every way like the
+fore-quarter.
+
+_Epigramme._--Put a breast of lamb in a saucepan, cover it with cold
+water, season with a small onion and one clove stuck in it, two stalks
+of parsley, a piece of carrot, one of turnip, and salt. Boil gently till
+you can pull off the bones easily. It may also be boiled in the
+soup-kettle while making broth. When the bones come off easily, take
+from the fire, pull out all the small bones and cut out the large one.
+Place the breast in a large bakepan, with some weight over so as to
+flatten it, and leave it so till perfectly cold. Then cut it in pieces
+of rhombic shape about four inches long and two inches broad; salt and
+pepper each piece on both sides; dip them in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs and fry them with a little butter, and serve on a tomato,
+_piquante_, _ravigote_, or _soubise_ sauce, or on any _purée_.
+
+When the sauce is spread on the dish, place the pieces of lamb all
+around it, one lapping over the other, and forming a kind of oblong
+string, and serve warm.
+
+_Another._--When the _épigramme_ is prepared as above and ready to be
+served, have as many mutton-chops as you have pieces of meat from the
+breast; dish in the same way, except that you put one piece of the
+breast and then a mutton-chop fried in the same way as the pieces of
+meat; the chops lapping over the pieces of breast, and _vice versa_.
+
+_Broiled._--The same may be broiled instead of fried, and served in the
+same way.
+
+_Roasted entire._--Skewer a lamb properly on the spit, envelop it with
+buttered paper, place before a good fire, baste often with melted butter
+first, and then with the drippings; when nearly done take the paper off,
+let the lamb take a fine color around, and serve it with the gravy. It
+may be served with a garniture around and decorated with skewers, the
+same as directed for fillet of beef; it then makes a sightly as well as
+a delicious dish.
+
+Served with a garniture and decorated as directed for a fillet of beef,
+it is served as a _relevé_ at a grand dinner, and as an _entrée_ at a
+family dinner.
+
+_Cold._--Cold lamb is served in every way like cold mutton. A part left
+from a roasted piece may be enveloped in buttered paper, put on the spit
+just long enough to warm it, and served just in the same way as roast
+lamb.
+
+_Lamb's head_, _feet_, _kidneys_, etc., are prepared and served like the
+same parts of the sheep, and as directed in the different receipts.
+
+
+  KID.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve kid the same as lamb.
+
+
+
+
+  VEAL.
+
+
+Never buy too young veal. It is very easy to know it; when too young,
+the bones are very tender; they are more like nerves than bones; the
+meat is gluish, and has little or no taste. Epicures say that if a calf
+is killed before it is two months old, or at least six weeks, it is not
+fit for eating. We are of that opinion, although, perhaps, very few are
+allowed so long a life. We will therefore recommend our readers to
+beware buying too young veal; many diseases, especially in children,
+come from eating it.
+
+When you broil or roast a piece of veal, baste often. Veal is better
+when a little overdone; it is not good, and operates like physic, if
+underdone.
+
+The best veal is that of a greenish color and very fat. It is fresh when
+the eyes are full and smooth, and when the meat is firm. If the meat is
+yellowish or contains yellowish spots, it is not fresh. The veins must
+be red.
+
+_To improve._--Chop fine a tablespoonful of parsley, a teaspoonful of
+shallots, same of green onions, a bay-leaf, two sprigs of thyme, two or
+three mushrooms, add to them, salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg;
+cover the bottom of a tureen with half of each, put on it the piece of
+veal you wish to improve, cover with the other half of the seasonings;
+then pour gently on the whole two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil; leave
+the veal thus about four or five hours in winter and about two in
+summer.
+
+
+  ROASTED.
+
+The pieces of veal that are roasted are the _loin_, _leg_, and
+_shoulder_.
+
+It may be improved as directed above or not, according to taste; but we
+earnestly recommend it as not a little improvement, but as a marked one,
+as everybody can try it and judge, veal being naturally tasteless.
+
+There are three ways of roasting veal. We will describe them, so that it
+can be done according to taste.
+
+1. Spread a thin coat of butter around the piece of veal after being
+salted all around, put on the spit before a good but not very sharp
+fire; near it, but not too much so: veal being more tender than beef, it
+would also burn much quicker. Baste often with melted butter first, and
+then with the drippings, and from the beginning to the end. When done,
+that is, when overdone, as veal must always be, serve with the gravy
+only, or in the different ways described below.
+
+2. Lard all the fleshy parts of the piece of veal with a larding-needle
+and strips of salt pork, the same as a fillet of beef, but which strips
+you roll in a mixture of parsley chopped, salt and pepper, before
+running them into the meat, and proceed as above for the rest. Serve
+also like the above.
+
+3. After the piece of veal is improved as directed, spread the
+seasonings in which it has been improved all around it, then envelop the
+whole in buttered paper, which you fasten with twine, put it on the
+spit, and baste often with melted butter. It must be basted often to
+prevent the paper from burning. About fifteen minutes before it is
+done, remove the paper, put the meat a little nearer the fire so as to
+give it a fine yellow or golden color, finish the cooking till overdone,
+and serve also like the first, or No. 1.
+
+No matter which of these three ways the piece of veal is roasted, it is
+served in the same manner.
+
+_With Asparagus._--When the roasted piece of veal is dished, put a
+_purée_ of asparagus all around, and serve warm.
+
+_With Peas._--Spread one pint or one quart (according to the size of the
+piece of meat) of green peas _au jus_, on a dish; place the meat on the
+peas, spread the gravy over the whole, and serve as warm as possible.
+
+_With Quenelles._--Dish the roasted piece, place around it six or eight
+_quenelles_ of chicken or of veal, strain the gravy on the whole, and
+serve warm.
+
+_With Vegetables._--When roasted and dished, put any kind of vegetables,
+prepared _au jus_, all around the piece of meat, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sweetbreads._--Roast the piece of veal as directed, and when
+dished, place six sweetbreads, prepared _au jus_, tastefully around the
+meat; strain the gravy over, and serve very warm.
+
+_Decorated._--Every piece of roasted veal may be decorated with skewers,
+either served _au jus_ or in any of the above ways. The skewers are
+first run through either of the following and then stuck into the piece
+of meat: slices of truffles; chicken-combs, prepared as for garniture;
+slices of sweetbreads or whole ones, prepared _au jus_; _quenelles_ of
+chicken or of veal; slices of carrots, turnips, beets, all prepared _au
+jus_; and mushrooms. One, two, three, or more to every skewer; for
+instance: one slice of truffle, then one of turnip, a chicken-comb, then
+a slice of sweetbread or a whole one, and then stick in the meat. From
+two to six skewers may be used. On a large piece never put less than
+two, and no matter how many you use, always have even numbers of them.
+
+
+  BAKED.
+
+All the parts of veal that are roasted, that is, the loin, leg, and
+shoulder, can be baked. They may be improved in the same way as to roast
+them. Put the piece of veal in a bakepan; spread salt, pepper, and
+butter on it; cover the bottom of the pan with cold water, about a
+quarter of an inch in depth; place a piece of buttered paper on the
+meat, and put in a warm oven. If the meat has been improved, the
+seasonings are spread over it before placing the buttered paper. Baste
+often with the water and juice in the pan and over the paper, which you
+need not remove till about ten minutes before taking from the oven, or
+in case it should burn; then you must replace it by another. It keeps
+the top of the meat moist, and it is more juicy when done.
+
+When properly baked (overdone, as every piece of veal must be), serve
+either _au jus_, or with the same garnitures, the same decorations, as
+directed for roasted veal.
+
+The gravy in the bakepan is strained, the fat skimmed off, and then it
+is turned over the meat and garnitures when dished, the same as the
+drippings or gravy of roast meat. In case the water in the bakepan, or
+the juice, or both, should boil away or be absorbed, put more cold water
+in it, so as to be able to baste.
+
+
+  BLANQUETTE.--(_Also called Poulette._)
+
+Take about two pounds of neck, breast, shoulder, or any other piece,
+which cut in pieces, two inches square, throw them in boiling water,
+with a little salt, for five minutes, and drain them. Put in a stewpan
+a piece of butter the size of an egg, set it on a good fire, and when
+melted mix in a tablespoonful of flour, stirring all the time, and when
+turning yellow pour gently and slowly in the pan a pint of boiling
+water; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, salt,
+pepper, six small white or red onions, two or three mushrooms, and then
+the meat; boil gently about three hours, and serve.
+
+
+  CROQUETTES.
+
+Proceed as for chicken croquettes in every particular, except that you
+use cold veal instead of cold chicken.
+
+
+  RAGOUT.
+
+The neck and breast pieces are generally used to make a _ragout_, but
+any other piece may be used. Take about three pounds of veal, which cut
+in pieces about two inches square. Put two ounces of butter in a
+saucepan, set it on the fire, and as soon as the butter is melted, lay
+the meat in, stir now and then till of a golden color, and then take the
+meat from the pan. Leave the pan on the fire, and put in it a
+tablespoonful of flour, little by little, keep stirring about five
+minutes; add also half a pint of broth, same of warm water, one onion
+with a clove stuck in it, a bay leaf, two sprigs of thyme, two of
+parsley, a clove of garlic, a small carrot cut in two or three pieces,
+salt and pepper, then the meat, and cover the pan. Half an hour after
+your meat is in, fry in butter in a frying-pan six small onions, which
+you also put in the stewpan as soon as fried. When the whole is cooked,
+place the meat on a dish, strain the sauce on it, surround the whole
+with the six small onions, and serve warm.
+
+_In Scallops._--Take a piece from the loin or leg of veal, cut it in
+pieces about three inches long, two inches broad, and one-third of an
+inch thick, as evenly as possible, and flatten them with a chopper. Salt
+and pepper them on both sides, and fry them with a little butter till
+about half done, on both sides alike. Add a little broth and chopped
+parsley, and boil gently till done. Place the pieces of veal all around
+the platter, one lapping over another, turn the sauce in the middle of
+them, and serve.
+
+_Another._--Cut the veal in pieces as for the above; beat one or two
+eggs in a plate with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; dip each piece
+into it and then roll in bread-crumbs; butter a bakepan, place the veal
+in with a small lump of butter on each piece, and bake; turn over to
+bake evenly. Serve as the above, with a _piquante_ or tomato sauce in
+the middle.
+
+
+  BREAST, STEWED.
+
+Cut in dice two ounces of bacon, put it in a stewpan and set on a good
+fire; add two ounces of butter, and two onions cut in slices; when
+melted, lay the breast in, turn it over and leave till of a golden color
+on both sides; add then two small carrots cut in pieces, one teaspoonful
+of chopped green onions, three sprigs of parsley, half a turnip, salt,
+and pepper; moisten with half a pint of warm water; leave thus about
+three hours on a moderate fire. Strain the juice in a dish, put the meat
+on it, and serve.
+
+The pieces of carrots and of bacon may be served with the meat, if you
+choose.
+
+_The same, with Green Peas._--Cut the breast in square pieces about two
+inches in size. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg,
+and set it on the fire; when melted, mix in it a teaspoonful of flour,
+then lay the meat in, and wet with half a glass of broth, same of warm
+water, also two sprigs of parsley, salt, and pepper; stir now and then.
+One hour after add green peas, and leave on the fire till the whole is
+cooked, when skim off the fat on the surface, and serve.
+
+_In Matelote._--To make a _matelote_ of veal any piece can be used, but
+most generally it is made with a breast or neck piece. Cut the veal in
+square pieces about two inches in size; have in a stewpan and on a good
+fire a piece of butter about the size of an egg; when melted, put the
+meat in, stir now and then till of a golden color; then take the meat
+from the stewpan, which you leave on the fire, and in which you put half
+a pint of warm water, same of claret wine, same of broth, a bay-leaf,
+two cloves, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a clove of garlic,
+salt, and pepper; when turning brown, put the meat back in the pan, and
+fifteen minutes before it is cooked add also ten small onions fried in
+butter beforehand and four or five mushrooms, then have a brisk fire to
+finish the cooking; place the meat on a dish, strain the sauce on the
+meat, put the ten small onions around it, and serve.
+
+_Broiled._--Salt and pepper both sides of the breast of veal, grease it
+all over with melted butter, by means of a brush, and broil till
+overdone. Serve with a _maître d'hôtel_, _piquante_, or _poivrade_
+sauce.
+
+
+  CUTLETS.
+
+_Broiled._--When properly trimmed, they may be improved as directed for
+veal. Salt and pepper both sides; spread a little melted butter on both
+sides also by means of a brush; place them on, before, or under the fire
+(_see_ Broiling); baste now and then with melted butter; turn over one,
+two, or three times, and when rather overdone serve with a _maître
+d'hôtel_ sauce spread all over.
+
+The above way of serving them is sometimes called _au naturel_.
+
+_With Crumbs._--When trimmed, dip them in egg beaten with salt, pepper,
+and chopped parsley, roll them in bread-crumbs, and then broil and serve
+them as the above, with a _maître d'hôtel_.
+
+_Fines Herbes._--Broil the chops as above, either with or without
+crumbs, and serve them with sauce _aux fines herbes_.
+
+_A l'Italienne._--When broiled as above, serve them on a layer of
+_macaroni Italienne_.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--When broiled and dished, surround them with a
+garniture of mushrooms, and serve warm. When there are several cutlets
+on the dish, and placed all around overlapping, the garniture may be put
+in the middle of the chops.
+
+Do the same with the following garnitures: chicken-combs, _croutons_,
+_duxelle_, _financière_, _Macédoine_, and onion. They may also be served
+on any _purée_.
+
+_Baked._--Trim six cutlets. Mix well half a pound of sausage-meat with
+two eggs. Put a piece of buttered paper large enough to cover the bottom
+of a bakepan in which the six cutlets may be laid easily. Spread half
+the sausage-meat on the paper in the pan, then lay the cutlets in it;
+put the other half of the sausage-meat over the cutlets, and place the
+whole in a rather quick oven. Baste every five minutes with melted
+butter and broth, using them alternately, and serve warm with the gravy
+when done. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added to them when on the
+dish, if liked.
+
+_Sautées._--Trim, and fry them with a little butter. When done on both
+sides, add a little broth, salt, pepper, and mushrooms and parsley
+chopped fine; chopped truffles may be added, if handy; boil gently for
+about ten minutes. Place the cutlets around the dish, one lapping over
+the other, turn the sauce in the middle, sprinkle some lemon-juice over
+the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sauce._--When broiled, baked, or _sautéd_, they may be dished and
+served with either of the following sauces: _fines herbes_, _maître
+d'hôtel_, _piquante_, _poivrade_, _ravigote_, _tarragon_, tomato, or
+truffle.
+
+_En Bellevue._--Proceed the same as for fillet of beef _en Bellevue_.
+
+_In Papillotes._--Trim six veal-chops, spread salt and pepper on them,
+and fry them with a little butter till about half done. Take from the
+fire, and cut a small hole in the middle with a paste-cutter. While they
+are frying, fry with a little butter one onion chopped fine; as soon as
+fried, add half a pound of sausage-meat; stir now and then for about
+five minutes; add also a pinch of cinnamon, same of nutmeg; take off and
+mix with the whole one yolk of egg, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
+salt, and pepper. Cut six pieces of white paper of a heart-like shape,
+and large enough to envelop a chop; grease them slightly with butter or
+sweet-oil; place some sausage-meat on one side of the paper (say half a
+tablespoonful), place a chop on it; put some sausage-meat on the chop
+and in the hole; fold the paper in two; then, by folding all around the
+border, the chop and seasonings are perfectly enveloped in the paper;
+put the chops in a baking-pan, spread a few drops of oil all over, and
+bake for about fifteen minutes in an oven at about 250 deg. Fahr.
+Instead of baking them, broil them carefully turning them over often and
+basting them to prevent the paper from burning, and serve with the paper
+on. They may be served on a _duxelle_ garniture, or with a _purée_.
+
+_Fricandeau._--Take a piece of veal of any size, from the leg, loin, or
+cutlet piece, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, lard one
+side with salt pork, the same as a fillet of beef. Put in a saucepan
+(for two pounds of meat) one ounce of butter, half a middling-sized
+onion, and as much carrot in slices, two or three stalks of parsley, one
+of thyme, a bay-leaf, six or eight pepper-corns, and rind of the pork
+you have used; spread all these seasonings on the bottom of the
+saucepan, put the piece of veal on them, the larded side up, set on a
+good fire for about fifteen minutes; after which you look if the under
+side of the meat is well browned; if so, add a gill of broth, put in the
+oven and baste often, if not, leave a little longer on the fire. Add a
+little broth once in a while, to keep the bottom of the pan wet, and to
+have enough to baste till a little overdone, and serve with the gravy
+strained all over it. It is then called _au jus_.
+
+_With Spinach._--Prepare and cook the _fricandeau_ as above; and when
+done, put some broth in the pan after having taken off the meat; give
+one boil; turn in the spinach _au jus_; stir on the fire one minute;
+dish the spinach; place the _fricandeau_ on it, and serve.
+
+_With Sorrel._--Proceed as with spinach in every particular, except that
+you serve on sorrel _au jus_ instead of spinach. It makes a more
+delicate dish with sorrel, although excellent with spinach.
+
+It may also be served with green peas _au jus_ or _à l'anglaise_.
+
+_Financière._--When prepared, cooked, and dished as directed, surround
+it with a _financière_ garniture, and serve warm.
+
+_Jardinière._--After being cooked and dished, put a _Macédoine_
+garniture around it, and serve warm.
+
+
+  SHOULDER.
+
+_Boned._--Lay the shoulder on the table, the inside up, split it just in
+the middle, lengthwise, and following the middle of the bones; remove
+the flat bone at the larger end first. Do the same for the remaining
+bone. Then spread the shoulder open, and salt and pepper it. Fill the
+inside with sausage-meat; roll it of a round shape, and when properly
+tied with twine, roast or bake it, as directed for roasted or baked
+veal. It is then dished, decorated, and served in the same and every way
+as directed for roasted pieces of veal.
+
+It is an excellent dish served on either of the following purées:
+_beans_, _celery_, _lentils_, _peas_, _potatoes_, _sorrel_, _spinach_,
+or _tomatoes_.
+
+When served on a _purée_, it may be decorated with skewers, the same as
+when served with a garniture.
+
+It may also be served with a _piquante_ or _poivrade_ sauce.
+
+_Stuffed._--Bone the shoulder as directed above; spread it open, and
+salt and pepper it, also as directed. Spread a coat of sausage-meat on
+it, about one-third of an inch in thickness, then put a layer of salt
+pork on the sausage-meat; then a layer of boiled ham; again a layer of
+sausage-meat; on this a layer of beef or sheep's tongue, boiled. The ham
+and tongue are cut in square fillets, about one-fourth of an inch broad
+and about two inches long. The tongues may be fresh or salted, according
+to taste. When filled, roll it so as to give it a round shape; wrap it
+up in a towel and drop it in boiling water, to which you have added
+salt. Boil gently for about four hours, take the kettle from the fire
+and let cool. When cold take the shoulder off, wipe it dry and serve
+with meat jelly. The jelly is chopped, or cut in fancy shapes, or both.
+Some chopped jelly may be placed all around the meat, and some cut in
+fancy shapes with a paste-cutter or with a knife, and placed over it.
+
+It may also be decorated with skewers, as directed for roasted pieces of
+veal.
+
+_En Bellevue._--When boiled and cold, prepare it like a fillet of _beef
+en Bellevue_, and serve.
+
+
+  LOIN OR LEG STEWED.
+
+Have in a stewpan and on a slow fire three or four tablespoonfuls of
+sweet-oil; when hot put the loin in, turn it over till of a yellow color
+all around, then add a bay-leaf, salt, pepper, and a pint of warm water;
+simmer four hours, and serve with the following sauce, which you must
+have prepared at the same time: Fry in butter till of a golden color ten
+middling-sized onions, then add to them half a glass of claret wine, two
+tablespoonfuls of broth, and two of the juice of the loin, ten mushrooms
+(if handy); simmer till cooked, and strain. Mix the sauce with the juice
+of the loin, and put it on a dish, place the loin upon it, and serve
+with the onions and mushrooms around the meat.
+
+In case the juice of the loin should be found too fat, throw in it (and
+before mixing it with the sauce) a few drops of cold water, and skim off
+the fat.
+
+The only thing to throw away before mixing is the bay-leaf.
+
+_Another way, or prepared with a Garniture of Cabbages._--Put in a
+stewpan and set on a good fire a piece of butter the size of an egg;
+when melted, add four onions and two small carrots, cut in slices; fry
+them two or three minutes, then put the loin in, with half a bay-leaf,
+wet with warm broth; then subdue the fire, let simmer about two hours
+and a half; strain the sauce on a dish, place the meat on it, and serve
+with a garniture of cabbages around.
+
+
+  COLD VEAL.
+
+Cut the meat in slices and serve them on a dish, arranged according to
+fancy, and serve with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, _Mayonnaise_,
+_Provençale_, _ravigote_, or _rémolade_ sauce. It may also be decorated
+and served like cold mutton, in _vinaigrette_.
+
+_Another way._--Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan
+and set on a good fire, mix in when melted two teaspoonfuls of flour,
+stir till of a brownish color, when add a saltspoonful of chopped
+parsley, four leaves of tarragon, salt, pepper, and half a pint of broth
+(more or less of the above according to the quantity of meat you have
+left), boil the whole fifteen minutes; then, if what you have left is
+from an entire piece, cut it in slices, lay them in the pan, and serve
+when warm enough, as it is.
+
+If what you have left is in pieces or slices, you merely place them in
+the pan and serve with the sauce when warm.
+
+
+  BRAIN.
+
+_To prepare._--Put the brain in a bowl of cold water and a tablespoonful
+of vinegar and leave it in from one to two or three hours, that is, till
+you are ready to use it, but do not leave it more than five or six hours
+and not less than one hour. Take it off, remove the thin skin and
+blood-vessels that are all around.
+
+_To boil._--When prepared, put the brain in a small saucepan, cover it
+with cold water; add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half an onion
+sliced, three stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, six
+pepper-corns, one clove, salt, boil about five minutes and take off the
+fire. Cut each half of the brain in two, from side to side; place the
+four pieces on a dish, the part cut upward.
+
+_Au Beurre Noir._--When dished as above directed, put two ounces of
+butter in a frying-pan and when melted turn into it two tablespoonfuls
+of vinegar, boil two or three minutes, then throw into it half a dozen
+stalks of parsley, take them off immediately with a skimmer, turn the
+butter and vinegar over the brain; spread the parsley around, and serve.
+
+_Stewed, or in Matelote._--When prepared as directed, put it in a small
+saucepan and cover it with claret wine; add half an onion sliced, one
+clove of garlic, one clove, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, salt, a
+bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, and boil gently for about fifteen minutes.
+Cut and dish it as directed above; turn the sauce over it through a
+strainer and serve--it is understood, the sauce in which it has been
+cooked.
+
+_Fried._--Prepare as directed, cut in about six slices, dip them in
+batter, and fry in hot fat. (_See direction for_ Frying.)
+
+_In Poulette._--Prepare and boil it as directed, split each half of the
+brain in two or four pieces, place them tastefully on a dish, spread a
+_poulette_ sauce all over, and serve warm. It may also be prepared and
+served with a _piquante_ sauce. When the _piquante_ sauce is made, put
+the brain or brains in, boil ten minutes, and serve as it is.
+
+
+  EARS.
+
+They are prepared in every way like calf's head.
+
+
+  FEET.
+
+_To boil._--Throw them in boiling water for five minutes, split them in
+the middle and lengthwise after having taken off the large bone and
+hair, and tie them with a string. Put a piece of butter the size of two
+walnuts in a stewpan and set it on the fire, when melted add a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, half of each, a quarter
+of a lemon cut in slices, salt, and pepper, then the feet; wet with a
+glass of warm water; boil gently two or three hours, take from the fire
+and when nearly cold dip them in bread-crumbs, place them on a gridiron
+and set on a good fire, baste slightly with the juice in which they have
+cooked, and serve with fried parsley around.
+
+_The same, in Poulette._--Prepare and cook them as above. When you take
+them from the fire, instead of dipping them in bread-crumbs, put them in
+a _poulette_ sauce, simmer ten minutes, and serve.
+
+_Fried._--When boiled and drained dry, dip them in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs, fry in hot fat, and serve with green parsley all around.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Boil them as directed and drain them dry. When
+perfectly cold, serve them with a _vinaigrette_.
+
+
+  CALF'S HEAD.
+
+_How to prepare._--When the hair is off and the whole head well cleaned
+(this is generally done by butchers; but if not, throw the head in
+boiling water for five minutes and scrape the hair off with a knife
+immediately after taking it from the water), put it then in cold water
+for twenty-four hours in winter and ten in summer, changing the water
+two or three times.
+
+_To boil._--It may be boiled whole or after it is boned. If boiled
+whole, cut a hole on the top of the head and take off the brain without
+breaking it; put it in cold water immediately and as directed. Then set
+the head on the fire in a saucepan, covered with cold water, salt, one
+onion sliced, half a lemon, four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, two cloves of garlic, ten pepper-corns, and two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar; boil gently till done. Bone it before using
+it.
+
+When boiled after being boned, the brain is taken off in the same way as
+above and put in cold water also; then the tongue is cut out and boiled
+with the skin of the head, etc., with the same seasonings as when boiled
+whole. It is then ready for use, but leave it in the water till wanted;
+it would become tough if exposed to the air.
+
+_In Poulette._--Put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan, set it on
+the fire, when melted turn in one tablespoonful of flour; stir, and as
+soon as it commences to turn yellow add half a pint of broth, stir
+again, and when thickening, add the calf's head cut in rather large
+dice, give one boil, take from the fire, add the yolk of an egg and
+about a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, stir, give another boil, and
+serve.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Leave it in the water till perfectly cold; or, if
+wanted immediately, as soon as boiled, take it off and put in cold water
+to cool, and use. Cut the head in large dice and serve it with oil,
+vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard, and parsley chopped.
+
+_Broiled._--Prepare and boil the calf's head as directed. As soon as
+cool, cut it in about half a dozen pieces, dip them in beaten eggs, roll
+them in bread-crumbs, and broil both sides till turning of a golden
+color; serve warm with a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce, or with anchovy or
+horse-radish butter.
+
+_Fried._--Calf's head may be fried as soon as prepared and boiled; but
+most generally, it is only what has been left from the day before that
+is fried. Cut it in small pieces about two inches square, dip them in
+melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat.
+Serve hot, adding lemon-juice when the pieces of calf's head are on the
+dish.
+
+_En Tortue, or Turtle-like._--There are two ways of preparing calf's
+head en tortue:
+
+1. When it is prepared and boiled as directed above, drain it dry, cut
+it in pieces as for frying it; put them in a saucepan with one ounce of
+butter, set on the fire, stir for two minutes, add nearly a pint of
+Madeira wine, simmer gently for about half an hour; dish the meat, add a
+little lemon-juice all over, and serve warm. Some _quenelles_ of chicken
+may be placed all around, as a decoration; or a garniture of mushrooms.
+
+2. Prepare and boil the calf's head; drain it dry and cut it in pieces
+about two inches square. Dish the pieces either mound-like, or around
+the dish, one lapping over the other, and turn the following over it,
+and serve warm: Put a _financière_ garniture in a saucepan with a pint
+of Madeira wine, set on the fire and boil gently for about twenty
+minutes; take from the fire, spread over the pieces of calf's head, and
+serve.
+
+Some hard-boiled eggs cut in four or eight pieces, lengthwise, may be
+placed all around the dish; or some pickled cucumbers, cut in fancy
+pieces, or some quenelles of veal or chicken.
+
+
+  HEART.
+
+_To prepare._--Soak it in lukewarm water for about three hours, trim it
+and free it from skin, blood, and small fibres; then drain and wipe it
+dry. Stuff or fill it with sausage-meat, to which you add previously two
+or three onions chopped fine.
+
+_To cook._--When thus prepared, envelop it in buttered paper, set on
+the spit before a good fire, baste often, remove the paper a few minutes
+before taking it from the fire, then serve warm with a _piquante_,
+_poivrade_, or _ravigote_ sauce. It may also be served with a
+_vinaigrette_.
+
+_To bake._--When prepared as directed above, put it in a baking-pan;
+spread a little butter over, put a little water in the bakepan and set
+in a quick oven, baste and turn over two or three times, and when done,
+serve with the gravy and the same sauces as if it were roasted.
+
+_In Gratin._--Soak, drain and wipe it dry as directed.
+
+Cut it in slices and put them in a crockery or other pan; turn a white
+sauce all over, then sprinkle on half a gill of vinegar or the juice of
+a lemon, dust with bread-crumbs, put half a dozen lumps of butter, each
+about the size of a hazelnut, all over; bake in a rather quick oven.
+
+
+  KIDNEYS.
+
+_Sauté._--When prepared as directed below, cut it in pieces as directed
+for kidney in _brochettes_. Then put a piece of butter the size of half
+an egg in a frying-pan and set it on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in
+a teaspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon the while, add half
+a wine-glass of white wine, a tablespoonful of broth, a pinch of chopped
+parsley, salt and pepper, boil ten minutes and lay the fillets in; have
+a quick fire, and as soon as cooked dish them, spread the sauce over,
+sprinkle on a few drops of lemon-juice, and serve.
+
+_To prepare._--Never cook a kidney except it be very fresh. Prepare in
+the following way, a beef, sheep, or calf's kidney. Pig's kidneys are
+excellent if they have no disagreeable taste, but it is very often the
+case. The bad taste may be partly taken away by blanching the kidney,
+but it makes it tough and tasteless; it is better to throw it away.
+
+_In Brochettes._--Split the kidney in four lengthwise, and then cut it
+in rather small pieces. Cut fat salt pork in pieces of the same size as
+the pieces of kidney--the fatty part of the kidney must not be
+used--then salt and pepper the pieces of kidney; take a common skewer
+and run it through a piece of kidney, then through a piece of salt pork;
+repeat this till the skewer is full. Fill as many skewers as are
+necessary till the whole kidney is used; and then roast before a good
+fire, basting often with melted butter. Serve warm.
+
+_Another way._--Prepare as above, and instead of roasting, put the
+skewers in a bake-pan, spread a little butter over the kidney and salt
+pork, cover the bottom of the pan only with cold water, and bake. While
+in the oven, turn over and baste occasionally.
+
+Serve as the above, with its gravy, and warm.
+
+_Another._--Skewer the kidney, or rather pieces of kidney and salt pork
+as above; dip them in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry
+them in hot fat. Serve warm, but without gravy.
+
+
+  LIGHTS.
+
+Cut them in four pieces, soak and wash them three or four times in
+lukewarm water, changing the water each time; press them with the hands
+to extract all the blood. Place the lights in a stewpan, cover them with
+cold water, and set on a good fire; boil two minutes, take them off,
+throw them in cold water, and drain them; cut the lights in dice. Have
+butter in a stewpan on the fire, and when melted, lay the lights in, fry
+five minutes, keeping them tossed the while, then sprinkle on a
+tablespoonful of flour, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon; pour
+on, little by little, about a pint of warm broth, also a saltspoonful of
+chopped parsley, a pinch of allspice, salt, pepper, a bay-leaf, and
+sprig of thyme; have a brisk fire, and when about half done, add four or
+five mushrooms, and eight small onions. When the whole is cooked, take
+off bay-leaf and thyme, then take from the fire, beat two yolks of eggs
+with a tablespoonful of vinegar, and mix with the whole, turn on a dish,
+and serve.
+
+
+  CALF'S LIVER.
+
+_How to prepare._--Have water, with a little salt, on the fire, and at
+the first boiling, throw the liver in for about five minutes, and drain
+it.
+
+_How to improve the Liver before cooking it._--Put in a tureen two
+tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a bay-leaf broken in four pieces, two
+sprigs of thyme, four of parsley chopped fine, a green onion also
+chopped fine, salt, and pepper; lay the liver on the whole, and leave it
+from four to six hours, turning it over two or three times.
+
+_How to cook, roasted._--Envelop the liver with buttered paper, place it
+on the spit before a good fire, baste often with the oil from the
+tureen, after having taken off bay-leaf and thyme. A few minutes before
+it is done, take the paper off, baste continually with the drippings
+till well cooked, and serve it with the gravy.
+
+It may also be served with a _piquante_ or _poivrade_ sauce.
+
+It takes from thirty-five to forty-five minutes to roast it.
+
+_The same, sauté._--Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and set it
+on a sharp fire; when melted, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and
+green onions, then the liver cut in slices (after having been prepared
+as above); sprinkle on a saltspoonful of flour, then half a wine-glass
+of warm broth, same of claret wine, salt, pepper, and a pinch of
+allspice; serve when done.
+
+It takes only from ten to twelve minutes for the whole process.
+
+_The same, in the Oven._--Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on a
+sharp fire; when hot, put the liver in (after having been boiled as
+directed above, and after having cut it in pieces); fry it five minutes,
+turning over once only; then take from the fire, salt both sides of the
+slices, place them on a warm dish, putting on each slice a little butter
+kneaded with chopped parsley, salt, and pepper; put two or three minutes
+in a warm oven, take off, sprinkle on the whole the juice of half a
+lemon, and serve in the dish in which it has cooked.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Boil the liver as directed above, and when drained
+and cold, lard it well. Have butter in a frying-pan on a brisk fire;
+when hot, put the liver in for about five minutes, turning it over on
+every side. Have in a stewpan four ounces of bacon cut in dice; set it
+on a good fire, and when hot, lay the liver in; then add a glass of warm
+broth, same of white wine, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, two of parsley,
+a clove of garlic, two cloves, and a small carrot cut in two; cover the
+stewpan, subdue the fire, and let simmer three hours; stir now and then,
+place the liver on a dish, strain the sauce on it, and serve.
+
+
+  CALF'S PLUCK.
+
+Put the pluck in cold water for twelve hours in winter and four in
+summer; change the water once, drain, and throw it in boiling water for
+ten or fifteen minutes; take off and throw in cold water to cool, and
+drain it. Cut the pluck in pieces, and cook it like calf's head, and
+serve with the same sauce.
+
+
+  CALF'S TAIL.
+
+Take two tails, cut each in two, throw them in boiling water for three
+minutes, and drain. Cut a cabbage in two, trim off the stump, throw the
+two halves in boiling water, with a little salt, for fifteen minutes,
+and drain it. Put in a tureen the tails, cabbage, six ounces of lean
+bacon, two sprigs of parsley chopped fine, same quantity of green
+onions, two cloves, a little piece of nutmeg, a clove of garlic, salt,
+and pepper; cover the whole with half broth and half water, and boil
+gently till cooked. Then take off cloves, nutmeg, and garlic, turn the
+remainder on a dish, and serve.
+
+
+  TONGUE.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve a calf's tongue, in the same and every way like
+a fresh beef's tongue. The only difference is, that, being smaller, it
+is seldom decorated.
+
+It may be split in two, lengthwise and nearly through, opened and served
+thus, with slices of pickled cucumbers.
+
+
+  SWEETBREADS.
+
+_To prepare._--Soak them in cold water for about an hour. Take off and
+remove the skin and bloody vessels that are all around. For two
+sweetbreads set about one pint of water on the fire in a small saucepan
+with salt, a tablespoonful of vinegar, a few slices of onion, six
+pepper-corns, a clove of garlic, two cloves, six sprigs of parsley, one
+of thyme, and a bay-leaf; boil two minutes, drop the sweetbreads in,
+boil one minute and take them off. Drop them immediately in cold water
+and leave them in for from two minutes to an hour. Put them on a flat
+surface with a board over, and leave them thus till they are perfectly
+cold and rather flattened.
+
+_Au Jus._--Trim them a little, so as to give them a better appearance.
+Lard the top or smooth side, then butter the bottom of a pan, spread a
+few slices of onion on the butter; add a bay-leaf, a clove, two stalks
+of parsley; place the sweetbreads on the whole, the larded side up,
+cover the pan and set on a good fire, or in a rather warm oven; about
+ten minutes after, add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, baste now
+and then till done. If the broth is absorbed before the sweetbreads are
+done, add some more. Dish the sweetbreads, turn the gravy over them
+through a strainer, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Prepare as above directed; then, instead of larding it,
+you knead well together two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of shallots
+and parsley well chopped, half a clove of garlic, salt, and pepper;
+place the whole in a stewpan, with the sweetbreads on it, and thin
+slices of bacon on the sweetbreads; set the pan on a good fire, and add
+then half a glass of broth, same of white wine; simmer till cooked; dish
+the sweetbreads, throw a few drops of cold water in the sauce, skim off
+the fat, strain the sauce on the sweetbreads, and serve.
+
+When the sweetbreads _au jus_ are dished as directed, place tastefully,
+all around, either of the following garnitures: _cauliflower_,
+_chicken-combs_, _duxelle_, _financière_, _mushrooms_, _liver_,
+_Macédoine_, _quenelles_, and _truffles_. Besides these garnitures, the
+sweetbreads may be decorated with small skewers, run through a boiled
+_craw-fish_ and a small _quenelle_ of chicken or of veal. One or two
+skewers may be stuck in each sweetbread.
+
+The sweetbreads, when several are served at a time, may be placed on the
+dish, either around it, forming a kind of crown, or forming a pyramid,
+or in any other way, according to fancy. They may also be served with a
+sauce _fines herbes_.
+
+
+
+
+  PORK.
+
+  TO SELECT.
+
+
+When the rind is tender and thin, the pork is young; when thick and
+hard, it is old.
+
+To be good, the meat must be soft, and have a fresh and good appearance.
+
+We do not think it necessary to indicate here how to make black
+puddings, chitterlings, Bologna, and other sausages. It is nearly, if
+not quite impossible, for a person having no practice in it, to make
+them edible; it is better to buy them ready made at pork-butchers'
+shops, or to hire an experienced person to make them.
+
+
+  CHINE AND FILLET.
+
+Take a good chine of pork, place it on the spit before a sharp fire,
+baste often with a little melted butter first, and then with the
+drippings; when properly cooked, serve it with a _vinaigrette_,
+_Robert_, _piquante_, or _poivrade_ sauce. It will take from two to
+three or four hours to roast, according to the size of the chine.
+
+
+  HOW TO IMPROVE THE CHINE OF PORK.
+
+Place it in a crockery vessel, pour on it two tablespoonfuls of
+sweet-oil, then sprinkle on two teaspoonfuls or chopped parsley, also
+salt and pepper, two onions chopped fine, four cloves, and two
+bay-leaves; leave thus twenty-four hours in winter, and ten in summer,
+turning over two or three times. The taste of the meat is much improved
+by that process. The oil may be used for basting instead of butter.
+
+_Baked._--Put the chine in a bakepan, sprinkle salt over it, coyer the
+bottom of the pan with cold water, and put in a rather quick oven, baste
+often, and in case there should be much fat in the pan, take it off and
+add a little cold water.
+
+When overdone, serve with any of the following _purées_: beans, lentils,
+Lima beans, onions, peas, potatoes, sorrel, or spinach.
+
+It may also be served with the following sauces: _fines herbes_,
+_piquante_, _poivrade_, _Provençale_, _ravigote_, _rémolade_, _Robert_,
+_tarragon_, _Tartar_, and _vinaigrette_.
+
+It is served also with a tomato-sauce. Make more sauce for pork than for
+other dishes, and make the tomato-sauce rather thick by boiling it
+gently for some time; it tastes better so with pork.
+
+Always use mustard with pork, if you like it. Horse-radish, also, is
+good with it.
+
+
+  CUTLETS.
+
+Flatten the cutlets with a chopper (they may be improved in the same way
+as the chine), place them on the gridiron and set on a sharp fire; turn
+over two or three times, and when properly done, serve them with a
+_piquante_, _Robert_, or tomato-sauce, adding to them some slices of
+pickled cucumbers just before serving.
+
+_The same, sautées._--Instead of broiling them, when prepared as above,
+place them in a frying-pan with a little butter, turn over two or three
+times during the cooking, and serve as the above, or on a _purée_ of
+sorrel.
+
+
+  LEG, ROASTED.
+
+_How to improve it._--Take the skin or rind gently off, put the leg in a
+crockery vessel, pour on it the following mixture: a pint of white wine,
+two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a bunch of sage, salt, pepper, and a
+pinch of grated nutmeg. Leave it thus two days in winter and one in
+summer, turning it over two or three times during the process.
+
+Place the leg on the spit and put before a very sharp fire, baste often
+with the mixture from the crockery vessel, or with melted butter, and
+serve when cooked, with the gravy strained. It will take about two or
+two and a half hours to roast it.
+
+_Baked._--Bake and serve the leg in the same and every way as the chine,
+with _purées_ and sauces. Any part of pork is prepared like chine.
+
+_Ham in hors-d'oeuvre._--Cut the ham in small and thin slices, place the
+slices tastefully on a dish, either overlapping or in pyramid, or in any
+other fancy way, and serve with parsley in the middle or around. Slices
+of lemon may also be served with it, either with the parsley or without
+it.
+
+
+  HAM.
+
+_To boil._--Sugar-cured are preferred to others.
+
+Scrape off the outside gently, soak in cold water for from six to
+twenty-four hours, take off and wipe dry.
+
+Envelop it in a towel and tie it. Place it in a kettle large enough to
+hold it without bending it; cover with cold water; season with six small
+onions, two carrots, four cloves, two bay-leaves, a handful or two
+plants of parsley, two or three stalks of thyme, two of celery, two
+cloves of garlic (a handful of hay and half a bottle of white wine, if
+handy would improve the taste); boil gently for four or five hours,
+according to the size (four hours for a ten-pound one, five for a
+fifteen-pound one). Pay no attention to the old saying that "it takes
+half an hour to every pound."
+
+Take from the fire, remove the towel, break off and remove the small
+bone at the larger end of it, and without tearing the meat. Remove the
+rind also, leaving only about two inches of it near the smaller end,
+cutting it so that it will be dentilated.
+
+_To decorate._--It is decorated in several ways, according to taste and
+fancy. If the fat is not white after having removed the rind, spread a
+very thin coat of lard over it, place the ham on a dish, the fatty side
+up. Cut carrots, turnips, and beets, boiled tender, in fancy shapes,
+with paste-cutters or with a knife; place them tastefully all over the
+ham; place also all over it some parsley, capers, and olives. Chop some
+meat-jelly and put it all around the dish, and serve. In carving it,
+scrape back the lard and vegetables, slice, and serve.
+
+_Another._--When boiled, trimmed, and the rind removed, put it in the
+oven for about twenty minutes, basting the while with a Madeira sauce.
+Serve with the sauce. Any kind of _purée_ may be served with it.
+
+_Another._--When trimmed and soaked in water as directed, boil it with
+half wine and half water: the same seasonings as when boiled in water.
+Use either Catawba, Sauterne, or Rhine wine. It makes it more expensive,
+but it is excellent. It is served as when boiled in water.
+
+_Another._--Boil it in claret wine, and when trimmed and decorated,
+serve it with a mushroom or a _truffle_ sauce.
+
+_Another._--Boil, trim, and cut off the rind as described in the above
+cases; place the frill, and serve with _spinach au beurre._
+
+[Illustration: A, skewers; B, carrot; C, truffle or mushroom; D, jelly;
+E, frill.]
+
+_Another._--Boil and trim the ham as above, cut the rind in the same
+way. What is left of the rind is cut as seen in the cut opposite: that
+is, some small square pieces are cut off, from place to place, so that
+it resembles a checkerboard; stick two or more skewers in it, glaze it
+with essence of beef or with sugar, and serve either on a tomato-sauce
+or on _peas à l'Anglaise_.
+
+_Ham English fashion._--Soak it in water and trim it as directed. Make
+some paste with water and flour only; spread a coat of this paste all
+over the ham, and then envelop it in buttered or oiled paper. Put it on
+the spit and baste with fat while it is roasting. Roast it for three or
+three and a half hours, according to size; remove the paper about two
+hours after it has been taken from the fire; cut a hole in the paste
+about an inch in diameter and on the lean side; pour into it, little by
+little, half a pint of good Madeira wine, cover the hole with some
+paste, placing a band of paper on it to prevent it from falling; put
+the ham back on the spit for about twenty minutes, and serve whole with
+Madeira sauce. We mean, by serving whole, with the paste around it, but
+not the paper.
+
+Besides the sauce, some green vegetables, boiled only, are served on
+separate dishes, but eaten with the ham.
+
+It is also served like game, with currant-jelly, apple-sauce, etc.
+
+_Champagne Sauce._--Proceed as for the above in every particular, except
+that you use Champagne instead of Madeira wine, and when done serve it
+with a Champagne sauce.
+
+_Another._--It may be boiled as directed above, and served with a
+Champagne sauce also.
+
+_Another._--When soaked and dry, put it in a crockery vessel; put on and
+all around it four onions chopped fine, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of
+thyme, a piece of nutmeg, and pour on the whole a bottle of white wine;
+cover the vessel as nearly air-tight as possible, leave it thus for
+about twenty-four hours, turning it over two or three times, so as to
+let every side take the seasonings. Place the ham on the spit before a
+good fire, baste often with the seasonings from the crockery vessel, and
+when done take it off, dust it with fine raspings of bread, place it
+fifteen minutes in a slow oven, strain the drippings, boil them till
+reduced to a proper thickness, dish the ham, pour the drippings on it,
+and serve.
+
+
+  SALTED PORK.
+
+The best and only proper way to cook salted pork, is, to put it in a
+kettle, entirely cover it with cold water, boil gently till cooked, and
+serve it with a _purée_ or with a garniture of cabbage. Any thing else
+that you might put with it would rather spoil than better it.
+
+
+  PIG'S EARS.
+
+_How to prepare._--Soak them in warm water for a few minutes, then wash
+and clean them well, and scrape the hair off, if any.
+
+_Boiled._--When prepared, you throw them in boiling water for two
+minutes and take from the fire; add four onions for four ears, one
+carrot, salt and pepper; leave just water enough to cover the whole, and
+when cooked, drain. Serve them on a _purée_ of beans or of lentils.
+
+_The same, broiled._--When cleaned, prepared, and cooked as above, just
+dip them in beaten eggs, roll them in bread-crumbs, place on the
+gridiron and on the fire, broil for about two or three minutes; then
+serve them with a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce.
+
+
+  PIG'S FEET.
+
+_Broiled, or à la Sainte Menehould._--Split six feet in two, lengthwise,
+and soak them in tepid water for ten minutes, then envelop each in a
+piece of linen well tied or sewed; place them in a kettle or stewpan
+with four small onions, four sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two of
+sweet basil, two bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, two cloves, two small
+carrots cut in pieces, salt, pepper, and half a pint of white wine;
+cover with cold water, simmer about six hours, skim them properly, fill
+with boiling water so as to have them covered all the time; take from
+the fire when cooked, and when nearly cool take the feet from the
+kettle, untie them, throw away the linen, and let them cool. Dip each in
+melted butter or in sweet-oil, roll in bread-crumbs, and place on a
+gridiron and on a good fire; serve them as they are, when properly
+broiled.
+
+_Stuffed._--Prepare the feet and cook them as above. When perfectly
+cold, remove the long bone of each half, fill the place with
+sausage-meat; dip each in melted butter and yolk of egg, mixed and
+seasoned with salt and pepper, roll in bread-crumbs, and broil. While
+they are broiling, baste them with melted butter. Serve as they are, or
+with meat-jelly, or gravy.
+
+_Stuffed with Truffles._--Proceed as with the above in every particular,
+so far as removing the long bone of each half, so as to be ready for
+stuffing them.
+
+Cut truffles in small dice, enough to half fill the feet, and put them
+on the fire in a small saucepan, just covered with Madeira wine; toss
+and stir till the wine is absorbed and nearly boiled away, then add a
+little gravy, stir half a minute, take from the fire and let cool. When
+cold, fill each half foot till half full, and finish with sausage-meat;
+then dip in butter and egg, roll in crumbs, broil and serve as the
+above.
+
+They may be filled with truffles only, and served with meat-jelly.
+
+
+  PIG'S HEAD.
+
+Soak in water and clean it well; take all the bones and flesh out; then
+cut the flesh and about one pound of salt pork in strips, which you put
+inside of the head, well mixed with salt, pepper, half a dozen
+middling-sized onions chopped, two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, half
+a saltspoonful of allspice, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, a
+little sage, and the juice of half a lemon; lay it in a crockery vessel
+for from four to six days. Envelop the head in a towel, place it in a
+kettle with eight small onions, two carrots cut in pieces, salt, pepper,
+four sprigs of parsley, four of thyme, four bay-leaves, two cloves, and
+a pint of white wine; cover with water, set on the fire, and simmer from
+six to eight hours; take from the fire and drain, take the towel off
+and drain again till dry and cold. Serve it with sprigs of green parsley
+around.
+
+_Wild-Boar like_.--Prepare, stuff, cook, and allow it to cool as the one
+preceding; then place it on an oval dish, the ears up, with one or two
+skewers to hold them in place, and also two or three decorated skewers
+in the middle of the head and between the eyes--not across, but
+lengthwise. Glaze it with essence of beef, by means of a brush; make
+eyes with meat-jelly, which you cut with a vegetable spoon, and imitate
+the tongue, teeth, and tusks with butter colored with cochineal and
+kneaded with flour. Cover the back part with jelly and skewers
+ornamented with flowers or slices of truffles, or with both. Some jelly,
+chopped, may also be placed all around, and flowers in the ears and on
+the eyes. It is served as an _entrée_, or for supper, lunch, or
+breakfast.
+
+
+  PIG'S KIDNEYS.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve like calf's kidneys.
+
+
+  PIG'S TAIL.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve like pig's ears.
+
+
+  PIG'S TONGUE.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve like beef tongue.
+
+_Head-cheese_.--Soak a pig's head in cold water for two or three hours,
+clean, and then cut the whole of it, ears and tongue included, in strips
+one or two inches long, and then put the whole with about two pounds of
+salt pork, cut in strips also, in a crockery bowl, season with salt,
+pepper, chopped onion, chopped parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and sage,
+chopped also, the juice of a lemon, and leave thus for about two or
+three days, turning it over occasionally. Then put the mixture in a
+mould or wrap it in a towel and boil till done. It must be immersed in
+the water.
+
+Some beet or sheep's tongue, together with the flesh of chicken, may be
+added to the head.
+
+When cooked and cold, if there are any empty places, they may be filled
+with meat-jelly.
+
+It is served at late suppers, or at lunch and breakfast. It is always
+served cold, with parsley around.
+
+
+  SUCKING-PIG.
+
+A sucking-pig, to be good, must be fat.
+
+Then properly cleaned, and hoofs off, clean the inside, leaving the
+kidneys; skewer it, put in it half a pound of butter kneaded with
+chopped parsley and green onions, four or five mushrooms, and two white
+onions with a clove stuck in each; place it on the spit before a good
+fire, baste often with melted butter first, and then with the drippings,
+and when done serve on a _vinaigrette_.
+
+Some truffles may be added to the seasoning, if handy; it gives it a
+good taste.
+
+_Baked_.--Stuff it as the above, place it in a baking-pan with just cold
+water enough to cover the bottom of the pan; put it in a quick oven,
+baste often, and when done serve with a _rémolade_ or _vinaigrette_
+sauce.
+
+When roasted or baked, place it on a dish with slices of truffles,
+mushrooms, and parsley all around. Run some skewers through slices or
+truffles and whole mushrooms, and plant them in it like the one
+represented in the cut on the following page.
+
+A small red apple is placed in the mouth after it is cooked, to make
+room for which a stone is placed in the mouth before cooking it, in
+order to keep the mouth open. It is served as warm as possible.
+
+[Illustration: A, skewer; B, slices of truffles; C, mushrooms]
+
+_Boned_.--A sucking-pig can be boned and filled just the same as a
+turkey, and cooked and served alike also.
+
+
+
+
+  POULTRY.
+
+
+Chickens, ducks, turkeys, and geese must be killed not less than
+twenty-four hours, and not more than three days in summer, nor less than
+two days nor more than six days in winter, before cooking them.
+
+
+  HOW TO PREPARE AND CLEAN.
+
+To transport poultry, _see_ Game.
+
+Poulterers are of the opinion that the best and quickest way of killing
+poultry is by cutting the throat or the tongue. Tie the legs of the
+bird, hang it by the legs, then kill and let bleed. Some cut the head
+off and throw it away on the ground, but the poor things do not die so
+fast, and therefore suffer more.
+
+As soon as the throat or tongue is cut, if the head is held down the
+bird dies sooner, as it allows the blood to run more freely, preventing
+the bird from bending and twisting its neck, and also from swallowing
+its blood.
+
+It is much better to pick the bird dry. By scalding, the skin is
+spoiled, and very often the flesh of a young and tender chicken is
+spoiled also, being blanched. When picked, singe the bird carefully, in
+order not to burn the skin.
+
+Split the skin on the back of the neck, from the body to near the head;
+then detach the skin from the neck by pulling it downward and the neck
+upward; it gives you plenty of room to pull the crop out, which you do.
+Cut the skin off at about the middle of the neck, and the neck close to
+the body; that part of the skin of the neck is left to cover the place
+where the neck was cut off, by turning it on the back of the bird, and
+holding it with twine in trussing.
+
+Make an incision under the rump, lengthwise, and large enough to draw
+the bird easily.
+
+When drawn, wipe the inside of the bird with a towel, but do not wash
+it, except when you have broken the gall-bladder. If that should happen,
+cut the bird in pieces immediately and wash well in lukewarm water;
+never roast or prepare whole a bird that has had the gall-bladder broken
+in it in drawing it. _Sauté_ it or prepare it in fricassee.
+
+If there should be any thing unclean on the outside, wipe it off, if
+possible, or otherwise cut the place off, or wash only the unclean
+place. A washed bird is a very inferior article. If you see that a bird
+cannot be cleansed properly except by washing it, do not buy it.
+
+
+  CHICKEN.
+
+_To select._--Buy a chicken with white flesh and pale-yellow fat. If
+young, the cock has small spurs, the hen has the lower part of the legs
+and feet rather soft and smooth; those parts are rough in old ones.
+
+If the rump is hard and stiff, they are fresh enough; but if soft, it is
+necessary to examine the bird carefully; it might be tainted.
+
+_To truss._--When prepared as directed for poultry, put the bird on the
+table on its back, and with a chopper or with a round stick flatten the
+breast-bone, which you break at a single blow if possible; the bird is
+much more sightly when served. Cut the legs off just above the first
+joint, or cut off only half of the claws and trim off the ends of the
+wings. Place the bird on a table, the breast up and the rump toward you.
+Push the legs under the skin, so that, by holding them perpendicularly
+and pressing on them, the part from the second to the third joint is
+alongside the chicken, or horizontally. Then run a trussing-needle, with
+twine attached to it, just above the bone of the leg, as near the second
+joint as possible, on the side (toward you) of the bone of the leg that
+is perpendicular, through the leg (which leg is the left one of the
+bird), body, and also through the bird, and at the same place, that is,
+as near the second joint as possible. Turn the bird upside down and the
+neck toward you; turn the ends of the wings on the back, as seen in the
+cut (p. 240), turn the skin of the neck on the back also, between or
+under the wings and in order to cover the place where the neck has been
+cut off, then run the needle again through the right wing, the skin of
+the neck and part of the body, and through the other wing. Tie the ends
+of the twine fast together.
+
+As it is, the legs of the bird, when on its back, are pointing upward.
+Bend them gently down till they are perpendicular and as seen in the
+cut, run the trussing-needle through both and also through the body,
+above the bones of the legs and under the end of the breast-bone; run it
+again the other way, but under the bones of the legs, tie the two ends
+of the twine together, and you have a bird trussed exactly like the one
+represented in the cut on next page.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Another way to truss is, to cut only half of the claws, instead of
+cutting the legs at the first joint; but, to truss thus, the first joint
+must be partly cut as represented below. If the nerve were not cut, it
+would contract in cooking, and instead of being straight, the legs would
+point upward.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A bird stuffed is trussed exactly in the same way as above, with the
+exception that the skin of the neck must be sewed up with a
+trussing-needle before commencing to truss the legs, and the incision
+must also be sewed up as soon as filled and before trussing.
+
+The twine used to sew and truss the bird is removed just before dishing
+it.
+
+Some experiments have been made lately, in France, to find out the best
+way to kill chickens and make them tender. Those killed by electricity
+were more tender than any other, but they must be cooked immediately, as
+they become tainted in a very short time.
+
+_To blanch._--When cut in pieces as directed, throw it in boiling water
+to which a little salt has been added; boil two minutes and drain.
+
+_To cut._--To make a chicken _sauté_ or in fricassee, it is generally
+cut into eight pieces; the two legs, the wings, one piece of the
+breast-bone, and three pieces of the back-bone. The ends of the wings,
+the lower part of the legs after being skinned by warming them, the
+neck, gizzard, heart, kidneys, and head, are put in the soup-kettle.
+Generally the bones of the legs above the second joint are removed by
+breaking them with the back of a knife just above the second joint. The
+ends of the small bones of the three pieces of the back-bone are trimmed
+off also.
+
+_To dish and serve._--Dish the pieces in the following order: the neck,
+gizzard, the fore part of the back and the low part of the legs in the
+middle; then one leg on each side of the dish, with one wing beside
+each, then the breast and hind part of the back, and lastly the ends of
+the wings at the top. If cut in eight pieces only, place the breast-bone
+on the middle of the dish, the hind part of the back-bone at one end of
+it and the two others at the other end; the legs and wings on each side.
+
+_Boiled._--A chicken is boiled only when it is an old one, whose
+tenderness is doubtful, and which is not needed to make broth or
+_consommé_.
+
+Clean, prepare, and truss it as directed for poultry. Brown the bird in
+a saucepan with about one ounce of butter, then half cover it with cold
+water; season with a few slices of onion, same of carrot, two cloves,
+two stalks of parsley, salt and pepper. Boil gently about one hour and a
+half, and when done, dish the bird, strain the sauce over it, and serve
+warm.
+
+If the sauce boils away, add a little cold water; and if there is any
+fat on it, skim it off.
+
+An old chicken may be cooked especially to make a salad.
+
+_Boned._--Pick, bone, fill, cook, and serve a boned chicken exactly like
+a boned turkey; the only difference is, that it requires less filling,
+being smaller.
+
+For an extra, legs of large chickens may be boned and filled like the
+chicken, the rest being used for a fricassee.
+
+_Broiled._--Young, or what are called _spring chickens_, are broiled; an
+old one would not be as good.
+
+To broil, a chicken is split in two lengthwise, or the back only is
+split, so as to open it. Salt both sides and butter them slightly, then
+broil on a good but not sharp fire. Serve with a _maître-d'hôtel_,
+_piquante_, or _ravigote_ sauce.
+
+_Broiled hunter-like._--When cleaned and prepared, split the chicken in
+two lengthwise and place it in a crockery dish with the following
+seasonings: a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, a middling-sized
+onion in slices, two cloves, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of sweet-oil,
+and the juice of half a lemon. Half an hour after turn the chicken over,
+and after another half hour place the above seasonings all around the
+chicken, fasten them with paper, tie the paper with twine, and broil
+carefully on a rather slow fire, and turning over two or three times.
+When done, remove the paper in which they are enveloped, scrape off the
+slices without scratching the meat, and serve as warm as possible with a
+_maître-d'hôtel_, _ravigote_, or _Madeira_ sauce.
+
+When an older chicken is prepared hunter-like, it is generally served
+with a _Tartar_ sauce.
+
+_Another way._--Clean and prepare a chicken as directed. Cut the neck
+off, also the legs at the first joint, split the breast in two so as to
+open the chicken, and flatten it with a chopper. Put about two ounces of
+butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire; when melted, add a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, stir for half a minute with a wooden
+spoon, then put the chicken in with salt and pepper; when about half
+fried on one side, turn it over and half fry the other side; then take
+off the chicken, roll it in chopped parsley and bread-crumbs mixed
+together, broil it properly and serve on a _Tartar_ sauce.
+
+A chicken broiled either way above described may also be served on a
+_Béchamel_ or on a _cream_ sauce.
+
+_Croquettes._--The proportions that we give below are for half a
+middling-sized chicken.
+
+A chicken may be cooked especially to make _croquettes_, but it is
+generally made with cold meat.
+
+Chop the meat fine. Chop fine also half a middling-sized onion; fry it
+with one ounce of butter, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir
+for half a minute, then add also the chopped meat and a little over a
+gill of broth, salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, stir for about two
+minutes, take from the fire, mix two yolks of eggs with it, put back on
+the fire for one minute, stirring the while; lastly you add four
+mushrooms chopped, or two truffles, chopped also, or both, according to
+taste; do not put back on the fire, but turn the mixture into a dish,
+spread it and put it away to cool.
+
+When perfectly cold, mix it well, as the upper part is more dry than the
+rest; put it in parts on the paste-board, about a tablespoonful for each
+part. Have bread-crumbs on the paste-board, roll each part of the shape
+you wish; either round like a small sausage, or flat, or of a
+chop-shape; then dip each _croquette_ or part in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs again, and fry in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.)
+
+The best way to shape them, is to roll each part round first with a few
+bread-crumbs, then with a knife smooth both ends, while with the left
+hand you roll them gently, and if wanted flat, strike gently on them
+with the blade of a knife. If wanted of a chop-shape, when flat, shape
+with the hands and strike again to flatten them.
+
+_Croquettes_ are made with any kind of cold meat.
+
+_In Fricassee._--Clean, prepare, and cut as directed. If the flesh is
+not white, blanch it. Put it in a saucepan, cover it with broth or cold
+water (broth is better than water), set it on the fire, and add one
+onion whole, and if covered with water, add also a bunch of seasonings,
+composed of three stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and one
+clove, boil gently till done. Put about two ounces of butter in a
+saucepan with one tablespoonful of flour, set on the fire, stir and mix
+while the butter is melting; then turn the broth or water in which the
+chicken has been cooked into this pan through a strainer, add salt, six
+mushrooms sliced, then the pieces of chicken; give one boil, dish the
+pieces as directed, mix a yolk of egg in the sauce, turn it over the
+chicken, and serve with or without a border of paste.
+
+_Border of Paste._--Knead well together, so as to make a rather thick
+paste, two whites of eggs with flour; spread it with a rolling-pin in a
+long strip about two inches and a half broad and one-fifth of an inch
+thick. Trim the sides if not straight; cut three rows of holes in the
+middle with a fruit-corer, then cut the strip of paste in two,
+lengthwise and in the middle of the middle row of holes. Cut it again
+across in pieces about three or four inches long. Put it in a warm place
+to dry till hard enough to keep in shape and still be pliable; warm the
+dish on which you wish to place it; beat the white of an egg just a
+little with a pinch of sugar, glaze the straight side of the paste with
+it; place it all around and on the border of the dish with the
+dentilated side up. Place the pieces of chicken inside of the border as
+directed above, and serve.
+
+The cut below represents the border. One, _a_, is the border before
+being cut in two, and _b_ when cut.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It may seem difficult to place the border at first, but it will be
+easily done after having tried once or twice, and following the
+directions previously given. It is better to try when not in a hurry and
+before being wanted; that is, before you wish to serve it. The border
+may be made and placed on a dish without a chicken, it will be better
+for an experiment.
+
+_In Fricassée à la chevalière or Parisienne._--While the chicken is
+cooking as directed for _fricassée_, prepare a garniture of
+_chicken-combs_, and, when the chicken is dished, place the garniture
+all around it, and serve warm.
+
+_A la Française._--While the _fricassée_ is being made, prepare a
+_garniture_ of mushrooms or one of truffles, or both.
+
+Dish the chicken as directed, place a garniture of _mushrooms_ or one of
+_truffles_, or both, tastefully all around, and serve warm.
+
+When a _fricassée_ is made for several persons, with two, three, four,
+or more chickens, three garnitures may be placed around the same dish,
+and, when carefully and tastefully arranged, it makes a sightly one.
+
+The three garnitures are, generally, of _chicken-combs_, _mushrooms_,
+and _truffles_; they may be also of _chicken-combs_, _quenelles_ of
+chicken, and _croutons_; or, of _financière_, _truffles_, and
+_chicken-combs_; or a boiled _craw-fish_ here and there, and two of any
+of the above-mentioned garnitures.
+
+Instead of a garniture, it may be served with a border of rice. (_See_
+Rice in Border.)
+
+_A la financière._--This is a _fricassée_ of chicken served with a
+_financière_ garniture.
+
+_Au suprême._--Chicken, or rather chickens, _au suprême_ is a
+_fricassée_ made with the breasts of chickens only. Each side of the
+breast-bone is carefully detached in two long pieces called _fillets_;
+so that, with two chickens, there are eight pieces.
+
+To detach them properly, split the skin right on the breast-bone from
+the neck to the rump, then pull it off on both sides so as to have the
+whole breast skinned. Take hold of one wing with the left hand, and,
+with a sharp knife in the right, split or cut the joint off carefully,
+we mean the third joint of the wing, or that near the body; as soon as
+the joint is cut, by merely raising the back of the knife, leaving the
+edge on the cut joint and pressing gently on the chicken, you easily
+pull off the larger part of the half breast; detach the end of the other
+half with the point of the knife and pull it off also.
+
+Do the same for the other side.
+
+When the breasts or fillets are thus detached, prepare them as chicken
+in _fricassée_, and serve with a border of paste, or with one of rice,
+as directed in the receipts above, and serve warm.
+
+What is left of the chickens is put in the broth-kettle, or used to make
+_consommé_.
+
+_Another suprême._--Detach the breasts of two chickens as above
+directed, then prepare the eight pieces or fillets as directed for
+chicken _sauté_. Ten minutes before taking from the fire, add and mix
+with the whole two or three truffles, weighing at least six ounces, and
+sliced; finish the cooling, and serve.
+
+_To serve._--Dish the pieces tastefully and according to fancy, and put
+the dish away in a warm place, then mix a _suprême_ sauce with what you
+have left in the pan, sauce, truffles, etc., boil the whole till rather
+thick, stirring continually while it is boiling, turn over the pieces of
+chicken, and serve. The _suprême_ sauce used in that case is generally
+made with very rich chicken gravy.
+
+Chickens _au suprême_ is considered a very _recherché_ dish, and it is a
+rather expensive one. For a grand dinner, the breasts of six chickens
+are used, and all the other parts of the chicken are used to make
+chicken gravy with rich broth, and that gravy is, in its turn, used to
+make the _suprême_ sauce that is mixed with the liquor in which the
+chicken has cooked.
+
+The broth used to _sauté_ the chicken is generally rich, and very often
+two pounds of truffles are used with six chickens.
+
+_A la Bourguignonne._--This is a _fricassée_ also, but instead of
+covering the chicken with broth or water, it is covered with white wine.
+
+Proceed, for the rest, and serve as _fricassée_.
+
+_With Carrots._--While you are cooking a chicken in _fricassée_, prepare
+a dish of carrots _au jus_ or _glazed_, for ornamenting the dish; cut
+the carrots with a vegetable spoon before cooking them.
+
+Dish the chicken as directed, place the carrots tastefully all around
+the meat, and serve warm. This dish was devised by a monk, and is often
+called _à la Saint Lambert_.
+
+_A la Royale._--This is nearly the same as _au suprême_; the only
+difference is, that the pieces of breast or fillets are larded with salt
+pork, and then cooked, served and decorated the same as described for
+_au suprême_.
+
+_Marengo._--Clean, prepare, and cut up the chicken as for _fricassée_.
+Put in a stewpan five teaspoonfuls of sweet-oil, and set on a good fire;
+when hot, put the chicken in with salt and pepper; turn over once in a
+while, till every piece is of a golden color, and nearly cooked, then
+add two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and one clove, tied
+together with twine; add also three or four mushrooms cut in slices, and
+if handy three or four truffles also cut in slices; when the whole is
+cooked, dish the pieces of chicken thus: the neck and gizzard, with the
+fore part of the back, and the low part of the legs in the middle, one
+leg on each side of the dish with one wing beside each, then the breast
+and hind part of the back, and the ends of the wings at the top. Have an
+Italian sauce ready, pour it on the chicken, place on the whole the
+pieces of mushrooms and truffles, also some _croutons_ fried in butter,
+and serve.
+
+_With Green Peas._--Clean, prepare, and truss the bird as directed for
+poultry, then cook it whole as a stewed chicken above. When done, dish
+the chicken, place peas _à l'Anglaise_ all around, strain the sauce over
+the whole, and serve.
+
+_Larded with Truffles._--Clean, prepare, and truss a fat chicken. Make
+about two dozen small pegs, with truffles, about half an inch long and
+one-eighth of an inch in diameter. Take a skewer, make a hole in the
+flesh of the breast of the chicken, and put a truffle-peg into it. Put a
+dozen pegs in the same way on each side of the breast-bone, and cook and
+serve the chicken. It is either boiled, stewed, or roasted, and served
+as directed for either.
+
+_With Tarragon._--Proceed as for a stewed chicken, with the exception
+that it is cooked whole after being trussed as directed for poultry, and
+after having stuffed it with two ounces of butter kneaded with half a
+dozen stalks of tarragon chopped fine. Serve with a few stalks of
+tarragon around the dish.
+
+_Roasted._--Clean, prepare, and truss the chicken as directed. Place it
+on the spit slightly salted and buttered all around, or envelop it in
+buttered paper, or merely cover the breast with thin slices of salt pork
+tied with twine. Baste often, at first with melted butter, and then with
+the drippings.
+
+If the bird has been enveloped with paper, the latter must be removed
+about ten minutes before taking the chicken from the fire; do the same
+with the slices of salt pork.
+
+It takes from twenty-five minutes to one hour to roast a chicken, with a
+good fire. The time depends as much on the quality of the bird as on the
+size. With a skewer or a small knife, or merely by pressing on it with
+the fingers, anyone can learn how to tell when done, after having
+roasted only two or three. Even by the look of it, many persons can
+tell.
+
+_With Water-cress._--Dish the chicken when roasted, put fresh
+water-cress all around, remove the fat from the gravy, which you turn
+over the whole; add salt and pepper to taste, a little vinegar or
+lemon-juice, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sauces._--When roasted, serve with the following sauces:
+_soubise_, _tarragon_, _oyster_, _tomato_, and _Provençale_.
+
+_With Garnitures._--Dish the bird when roasted as directed, and place
+one of the following garnitures around, and serve warm: _quenelles_ of
+chicken or of veal, _Macédoine_, and _cauliflowers_.
+
+_With Macaroni._--Spread four ounces of macaroni _au jus_ on a dish,
+place the roasted chicken on it, and serve the whole warm.
+
+_With Butter._--It may be served with its gravy and craw-fish or
+lobster-butter.
+
+_With Chestnuts._--When dished, surround the chicken with chestnuts
+glazed, and serve.
+
+_With Pigeons._--Dish the bird, place four roasted pigeons around, one
+at each end and one on each side; fill the intervals with green peas au
+jus, and serve warm.
+
+All the above may be decorated with skewers. Run the skewer in a
+_chestnut_ and then in a _craw-fish_; or, in a _quenelle_ and then in a
+_chestnut_ or _craw-fish_; or, in a _chicken-comb_, and in a _quenelle_,
+and stick it on the chicken. Two skewers only for a chicken make a fine
+decoration. Slices of _truffles_, of _mushrooms_, and _chicken-combs_,
+make fine as well as delicious decorations.
+
+_Baked._--Put the chicken in a baking-pan, after being cleaned,
+prepared, and trussed. Salt and butter the breast, which must be upward,
+place a piece of buttered paper on it, and a little cold water in the
+bakepan. Set it in a warm, but not too quick oven; baste often with the
+liquor in the pan. If the water and juice are absorbed by the heat, add
+a little cold water, so as to have liquor to baste with. Remove the
+paper about ten minutes before taking from the oven. It takes about
+forty minutes to cook a chicken of middle size.
+
+Serve a baked chicken with _sauces_ and _garnitures_, and _decorated_
+the same as if it were roasted, and as described in the above receipts.
+
+_Sauté._--After being cleaned and prepared as directed, cut the chicken
+in pieces as for _fricassée_. Put it in a saucepan with about an ounce
+of butter; set on the fire, stir now and then till it is of a golden
+color and pour off the fat, if any is in the saucepan. Add a
+tablespoonful of flour and stir half a minute, then add also broth
+enough to nearly cover the meat, half a pint of white wine, a bunch of
+seasonings composed of four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, half a
+bay-leaf, and one clove, the four tied together with twine; add salt,
+and one onion whole. Boil gently till done. Ten minutes before serving,
+add half a dozen mushrooms.
+
+Dish the pieces of chicken as directed for _fricassée_, place the
+mushrooms over them, strain the sauce all over, and serve warm.
+
+If the chicken is done before the sauce is reduced or is rather thick,
+dish the meat and put it away in a warm place, boil the rest slowly till
+reduced, and then turn it over the meat. Serve with or without a border,
+as in a _fricassée_. Truffles may be used instead of mushrooms, if
+handy, or liked. Water may be used instead of broth, but it is inferior.
+
+_Another._--To be good _sauté_, the chicken must be young and tender.
+Clean, prepare, and cut as directed. Put about one ounce and a half of
+butter in a frying-pan, set it on the fire, and when melted put the
+pieces of chicken in, stir now and then till all the pieces have a
+golden hue; add a tablespoonful of flour, stir again for about one
+minute; then add also salt and pepper, half a pint of broth, or one gill
+of broth and one gill of white wine; boil gently for five or six
+minutes. Add again a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, five or six
+mushrooms cut in slices, keep it boiling gently till done, and serve
+warm.
+
+If the sauce is boiling away, or is found too thick, add a little broth.
+Use _Champagne_, _Sauterne_, or _Catawba_ wine. It is much better with
+wine than without.
+
+_Another._--Clean, prepare, and cut the chicken as for _fricassée_. Put
+it in a saucepan with about an ounce of butter, set on the fire, stir
+once in a while till all the pieces are of a fine golden color; then
+pour off the fat that may be in the pan. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of
+flour all over it, and stir for about half a minute, then add three or
+four shallots, or two or three small green onions, chopped fine,
+parsley, and three or four mushrooms, both cut in small pieces, a bunch
+of seasonings composed of four sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, and one clove, salt, and pepper.
+
+Stir often till cooked, and serve with a few drops of lemon-juice
+sprinkled on it when dished.
+
+Dish as directed for _fricassée_.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean, prepare, and cut the chicken in pieces as for
+_fricassée_. Brown them in a saucepan with about one ounce of butter,
+then take the pieces off, add half a tablespoonful of flour to the
+butter, stir for one minute, then add also three or four mushrooms in
+slices, a small onion, and half a dozen sprigs of parsley chopped fine,
+stir for two or three minutes, then cover with half a pint of white wine
+and the same of broth, boil for ten minutes, put the pieces of chicken
+back into the pan, boil gently till done, and serve warm as it is.
+
+The pieces of chicken are dished as directed for _fricassée_.
+
+_Stuffed with Bread._--Soak stale bread in cold water, and then squeeze
+the water out of it. Put one ounce of butter in a saucepan and set it on
+the fire; as soon as melted, add one middling-sized onion chopped fine,
+and stir till it turns rather yellow, then add the bread, stir two
+minutes; add again salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, two or three
+tablespoonfuls of broth; stir again two or three minutes, take from the
+fire, mix in it a yolk of egg, put back on the fire for half a minute,
+stirring the while, take off again, add a teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley, and use. Fill the crop (we mean the place where the crop was)
+and also the body or inside of the bird with the above mixture, truss it
+as directed; roast or bake it, and serve with the gravy.
+
+_Stuffed with Sausage-meat._--Set a saucepan on the fire with about half
+an ounce of butter in it; when melted add an onion chopped fine, stir,
+and, when nearly fried, add also the heart and liver of the bird,
+chopped fine, four, six, or eight ounces of sausage-meat (according to
+the size of the bird), stir for about twelve minutes, take from the
+fire, mix a yolk of egg with it, also four or five mushrooms chopped, or
+one or two truffles, chopped also, put back on the fire for five
+minutes, stirring the while, take from the fire again, fill the prepared
+bird with the mixture, and as above, roast or bake it, and serve it with
+its gravy.
+
+_Stuffed with Chestnuts._--Roast chestnuts and skin them, removing also
+the white envelope that is under the outside skin. Fill the inside of a
+cleaned and prepared chicken till half full, add about one and a half
+ounces of butter, finish the filling; truss, roast or bake as directed,
+and serve the bird with its gravy.
+
+_Stuffed with Truffles._--The truffles, being preserved, do not require
+any preparation, half a pound is enough for a middling-sized chicken; it
+is not necessary to put any where the crop was.
+
+Salt and pepper the inside of the bird, and put in it also about a
+teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, then the truffles; sew the incision
+made to draw it; truss it as directed, and roast or bake.
+
+_The same, stewed._--When stuffed, put four ounces of salt pork cut in
+dice in a saucepan, with slices of onion and carrot, place the chicken
+on them, season with four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf,
+and one clove tied together; half cover it with broth and white wine, of
+equal parts, set on the fire, boil gently till done, turning it over
+several times. Dish the bird, strain the sauce over it, and serve warm.
+
+After being stuffed with truffles, it may be kept two days before
+cooking.
+
+_Cold._--What is left from the previous day's dinner is known under the
+name of cold meat.
+
+For about half a chicken put one ounce of butter in a saucepan, and,
+when melted, turn into it a _financière_ garniture, and half a pint of
+Madeira wine, boil gently about eight minutes, put the cold chicken cut
+in pieces in it; leave just long enough on the fire to warm it, and
+serve.
+
+If not a roasted or broiled chicken, or part of either, you merely warm
+it in the _bain-marie_ if possible, or on the fire, and serve as it is.
+
+If roasted or broiled, it is served in _blanquette_, thus:
+
+Cut up the meat in slices, have in a stewpan and on a good fire a piece
+of butter the size of two walnuts; when melted, sprinkle in it a pinch
+of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon the while; then pour in also,
+little by little, two gills of warm broth, same of boiling water, half a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and two or three small
+onions fried in butter; boil fifteen minutes. After that time subdue the
+fire, place the slices of chicken in the pan, and serve as it is when
+well warmed.
+
+Instead of onions, slices of pickled cucumbers may be used.
+
+_Another way._--Cut up the chicken or part of it as for _fricassée_. Put
+a little butter in a stewpan and set on the fire; when melted, sprinkle
+in it a little flour, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, same of
+chopped mushrooms, stir with a wooden spoon the while, two or three
+minutes after which add two gills of white wine, boil the whole fifteen
+minutes; then subdue the fire, put the pieces of chicken in the pan, and
+serve as it is when warm.
+
+It may also, after it is cut up, be served cold, with an oil,
+_piquante_, or _poivrade_ sauce.
+
+_The same, in Fricassée._--An old chicken that has been used to make
+broth, either alone or with beef, when cool, or the next day, may be
+prepared just as a spring chicken in _fricassée_.
+
+_In Salad._--It is made with cold chicken, roasted or baked, with a
+whole one or part of it.
+
+Cut all the meat in dice and put it in a bowl.
+
+Cut just as much roasted or baked veal in dice also, and put with the
+chicken.
+
+Cut also about as much table celery as chicken, which put with the meat
+also. Season with salt, pepper, vinegar, and very little oil; stir and
+mix the whole well. Add also some lettuce, and mix again gently. Put the
+mixture then on a platter, making a small mound with it; spread a
+Mayonnaise-sauce all over it; decorate with hard-boiled eggs, cut in
+four or eight pieces, lengthwise; also with centre leaves of lettuce,
+capers, boiled beets, and even slices of lemon.
+
+A bard-boiled egg is cut across in two, then with a sharp knife scallop
+each half, invert them and run a small skewer through both, so as to
+leave the smaller end of both halves in the middle and touching; place
+the egg right in the middle of the dish, when the Mayonnaise is spread
+all over; plant the centre leaves of a head of lettuce in the middle of
+the upper half of the egg, with a few capers in it, and serve.
+
+Some use mustard with a chicken salad; it is really wrong, because
+chickens and Mayonnaise-sauce are too delicate to use mustard with them.
+
+
+  CAPON.
+
+A caponed chicken is cleaned, prepared, cooked, and served in the same
+and every way as a common chicken.
+
+A capon is almost always fat, larger than an ordinary chicken, and has a
+more delicate and tender flesh.
+
+_Roasted_ and served in the different ways described for chicken, it
+makes a _recherché_ dish, also when stuffed with chestnuts or truffles,
+as a common chicken.
+
+_Boiled._--Clean and prepare as directed above; rub the fleshy part with
+lemon, envelop it with slices of bacon, place it in a stewpan with one
+sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, one clove, a small carrot,
+two onions, salt, and pepper; cover with half water and half broth, and
+set on a moderate fire. When cooked, take the capon off, place it on a
+dish, and set it in a warm place; then boil the sauce till it is rather
+thick, when strain it on the capon, and serve.
+
+_The same, with Rice._--When cleaned and prepared as above, you place
+the capon in a stewpan, cover it with water, add one glass of broth, a
+bay-leaf, one clove, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a small carrot,
+two onions, salt, and pepper; boil ten minutes, then add also about four
+ounces of rice, soaked in lukewarm water before using it, and let simmer
+for two hours. Take the capon off, and in case the rice should not be
+found to be cooked enough, finish the cooking of it; then take off
+clove, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, carrot and onions, pour the remainder
+on the capon, and serve.
+
+
+  TURKEY.
+
+Tame and wild are prepared and served alike.
+
+The legs of a young hen-turkey are black; the cock has small spurs, and
+also black legs.
+
+The shorter the neck the better and fatter the bird.
+
+An old hen has red and rough legs; the cock also has long spurs.
+
+The fatter they are the better; they cannot be too fat. The broader the
+breast the better; the skin must be white.
+
+It is fresh enough as long as the legs are not stiff.
+
+_Boiled._--Clean and prepare turkey as directed for poultry.
+
+Put in a stewpan, large enough to hold a turkey, a piece of butter the
+size of a duck's egg, also a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, same of
+green onions, and four or five mushrooms; set it on a good fire, and, as
+soon as the butter is hot, lay the turkey in; turn over now and then
+till of a fine golden color, then take it from the pan, cover the breast
+with slices of bacon tied with twine, and put it back in the pan; add a
+pinch of allspice, six small onions, salt, pepper, a glass of white
+wine, and a pint of broth; simmer till cooked, dish it, strain the sauce
+on it, and serve. It takes about two hours to cook a turkey of middling
+size. A little warm broth should be added, in case the sauce boils away
+during the cooking.
+
+_Roasted._--Clean, prepare, and truss a turkey as directed for poultry,
+and, if the turkey is not fat, the breast may be larded with salt pork.
+Place it on the spit before a sharp fire, basting often with melted
+butter at first, and then with the drippings. It may be enveloped in
+buttered paper and tied with twine before placing it on the spit; the
+paper is removed ten or fifteen minutes before taking from the fire;
+serve with the gravy, after having skimmed the fat off.
+
+Some fresh water-cress is placed all around it, and on which you
+sprinkle vinegar or lemon-juice.
+
+A turkey may be served in every way as a roasted chicken--with sauces,
+garnitures, and decorated with skewers.
+
+_Baked._--When cleaned, prepared, and trussed, put the turkey in a
+baking-pan, spread a little butter on it, put a little cold water in the
+pan, the depth of about two-eighths of an inch, sprinkle salt all over,
+place a piece of buttered paper on it, and put in a quick oven. Baste
+often and turn the bird over and round, if necessary. It takes from one
+hour and a half to two hours to cook a turkey, according to size,
+quality, and also according to the degree of heat.
+
+It is served with the gravy only, after having removed the fat, or with
+sauces, garnitures, and decorations, described for roasted chicken.
+
+_Oyster-Sauce._--When roasted or baked as directed, serve warm with an
+oyster-sauce.
+
+_With Currant Jelly._--Roast or bake it, and then serve it with
+currant-jelly.
+
+It is also served with a cranberry-sauce.
+
+_Stewed._--An old turkey is more tender stewed than cooked in any other
+way.
+
+The fleshy parts may be larded with salt pork, if found too lean.
+
+Put in a large stew-kettle half a pound of bacon cut in slices, four
+ounces of knuckle of veal, three sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, six small onions, one carrot, cut in four pieces, three
+cloves, one clove of garlic, salt, pepper, and then the turkey; wet with
+a pint of white wine, same of broth, cover as nearly air-tight as you
+can, place in a moderately heated oven or on a moderate fire, let simmer
+(not boil) about two hours and a half, then turn it over, put back on
+the fire or in the oven for another two hours and a half, after which
+dish the turkey; strain the sauce and put it back on the fire to reduce
+it to a jelly, which you spread on it, and serve.
+
+Many _connoisseurs_ prefer the turkey served thus when cold; it does not
+cost any thing to try it, and it is very handy for a grand dinner, as it
+may be prepared one or two days in advance, and is just as good, if kept
+in a refrigerator.
+
+_Stuffed with Chestnuts._--Roast chestnuts enough to fill the bird.
+Skin them and remove also the white skin under the outer one. Fill the
+turkey with them, after having cleaned and prepared it; when about half
+full, put in it also from four to six ounces of butter; finish the
+filling with chestnuts; sew it up, truss it as directed, and roast or
+bake it. Serve with the gravy only.
+
+_Stuffed with Truffles._--Chop fine about four ounces of truffles, and
+put them in a stewpan with about a pound of salt pork cut in dice; set
+it on a moderate fire; add salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a
+bay-leaf, a pinch of allspice, and a pinch of dried thyme; when hot, add
+also about two pounds of truffles, boil fifteen minutes, tossing now and
+then, and take from the fire. When nearly cool, put the whole in the
+turkey and sew it up; leave it thus, if fresh, four days in winter and
+one or two in summer; if not fresh, leave it a shorter time.
+
+_Roast_ or _bake_ it as directed above, and serve with the gravy, freed
+from the fat part. This dish is considered exquisite by epicures.
+
+_Stuffed with Sausage-meat._--Proceed as for chicken stuffed, in every
+particular.
+
+_With Salt Pork._--Place thin slices of salt pork on the breast of a
+prepared turkey, covering it entirely, and fastening the slices with
+twine; then the turkey is roasted or baked, and served with the gravy.
+The slices may be removed a little before taking from the fire, in order
+to color the meat.
+
+_Boned._--Buy a good turkey, neither too old nor too fat, and picked
+dry. Singe the bird, but do not draw it. Cut the neck off about one inch
+and a half from the body. Cut also the wings off just above the second
+joint, and the legs just above the first joint; the third joint is the
+one nearest the body. Split the skin from the end of the neck to the
+rump; use a small sharp-pointed knife; commence to run the knife between
+the bones and flesh, on one side, till you come to the third joint of
+the wings and legs. By twisting and raising both wings and leg, but one
+at a time, you easily crack the joint, and then separate it from the
+body with the knife. Continue to run the knife between the bones and
+flesh, on the same side, till you come to the breast-bone. Do the same
+on the other side. Pull out the crop and cut off the rump from the body,
+but without touching the skin, as the rump must come off with the skin
+and flesh. Then by taking hold of the bird by the neck with the left
+hand, and pulling the skin gently down with the right, you partly
+uncover the upper part of the breast-bone; then again run the knife
+between that bone and the flesh, on both sides, till you come nearly to
+the end or edge of the bone. Then lay the bird on its back, have
+somebody to take hold of it by the neck, having the breast of the bird
+toward you. All along the edge of the breast-bone there is no flesh
+between the bone and the skin. The bird being held as described above,
+take hold of the skin of the neck with your left hand, pulling gently
+downward, and with the knife detaching the skin carefully from the bone,
+the carcass coming off whole. Place the bird on the table, the inside
+up, pull out the bones of the wings and legs, scraping the flesh an
+around so as to leave it attached to the rest; pull or scrape off all
+the tendons of the legs; push legs and wings inside the bird; see that
+the rump is clean; cut off the ring under it if necessary. We warrant
+that anybody, with an ordinary amount of natural capacity, can bone a
+turkey or other bird by following our directions with care. We recommend
+persons doing it for the first time not to attempt to do it fast. Now
+have at hand about two pounds of sausage-meat seasoned as directed, two
+pounds of boiled ham, half a dozen boiled sheep's tongues or a smoked
+beef tongue (but really the former is better), a pound and a half of
+salt pork, and half a pound of truffles sliced (the latter if handy and
+if liked). Cut the ham, tongues, and salt pork in strips about four
+inches long, one inch broad, and a quarter of an inch thick. Spread the
+bird on the table, the inside up and the rump toward you; salt and
+pepper it; place three or four slices of salt pork here and there on it,
+then a layer of sausage-meat, strips of ham and tongue and salt pork
+alternately on the sausage-meat, slices of truffles if used, again
+sausage-meat, ham, etc., till there is enough to fill the bird well;
+that is, by bringing the two sides of the skin together, giving the bird
+a round form, it is perfectly full. It is impossible to give exact
+proportions; it depends not only on the size of the bird, but also on
+the quality and degree of fatness of the bird. In two of the same
+weight, one may require more than the other to fill it. When filled, and
+when the two sides of the skin are brought together as described above,
+sew up the cut with a trussing-needle and twine. Wrap up the bird
+tightly in a towel, tie the towel with a string, and run the string all
+around the towel to prevent it from opening at all. Take a kettle or
+saucepan of an oval shape and large enough to hold the bird, put enough
+cold water in it to cover the bird, also all the bones of the bird
+(broken in pieces), a small piece of lean beef, say one pound, a few
+stalks of parsley, two of thyme, two cloves, two cloves of garlic, a
+bay-leaf, twelve pepper-corns, a middling-sized carrot sliced, half a
+turnip, and salt. Set on the fire, and at the first boiling put the bird
+in; boil gently for about three hours if it is a turkey of middling
+size, two hours for a middling-sized chicken. When done it partly
+floats; that is, the upper part is above the liquor. Take it from the
+pan, take the towel off and rinse it in cold water; wrap the bird up in
+the towel again and in the same way as before; place it on a large dish,
+with the seam or back under; put another plate or dish over it with a
+weight on it, and leave thus overnight in a cool place. The next morning
+the bird will be perfectly cold and rather flattened; then remove the
+towel, also the twine with which it has been sewed, place it on the dish
+on which it is to be served, the breast upward; glaze it with essence of
+beef or glace; decorate with meat-jelly, and serve.
+
+_How to decorate with Jelly._--When the jelly is congealed and can be
+cut with a knife, chop some of it on a coarse towel and put it all
+around the bird, about half an inch thick; cut some in slices about a
+quarter of an inch in thickness; cut these again with paste-cutters in
+different shapes, according to fancy, and place it over the bird, also
+according to fancy; again cut some of it in slices about one inch broad,
+a quarter of an inch thick and of any length, and cut out of these last
+ones pieces of a triangular shape, which put all around the border of
+the dish, placed so that one point of each piece is turned toward the
+edge of the dish and the two other points touch the other pieces on both
+sides; then you have an indented border of jelly. When the jelly is
+fancifully and tastefully arranged, it makes a sightly dish.
+
+It is always served cold for breakfast, lunch, or supper.
+
+In summer the jelly melts, and cannot be used as a decoration. A boned
+bird is then served without jelly. The bird is cut in slices, and some
+jelly is served with each slice.
+
+_Cold._--A turkey, being a large bird, is seldom entirely eaten the day
+it is served, and very often more than half of it is left for the next
+day. What is left may be prepared in different ways.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Cut the flesh in slices and serve them with a
+_vinaigrette_. It is not understood here for a boned turkey, which is
+always eaten cold, but either a roasted, baked, stewed, or stuffed
+turkey.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Proceed in every particular as for chicken
+_croquettes_.
+
+_In Salad._--A salad of turkey is made also exactly the same as a salad
+of chicken, with cold meat. It is covered with a Mayonnaise-sauce and
+decorated in the same way.
+
+Besides the above ways of preparing cold turkey, it may also be prepared
+as directed for cold chicken in general.
+
+A caponed turkey is prepared as a caponed chicken, boiled or with rice;
+and also like a turkey, as described in the above receipts. They are
+generally larger, fatter, and more tender and juicy than others. They
+are very much appreciated here, and every year more and more are
+supplied, and, as in Europe, the greater the supply the better the
+quality. There is a ready market for caponed turkeys in all the large
+cities of the United States, and they command a high price.
+
+
+  DUCKS.
+
+Ducks and ducklings, tame and wild, are prepared alike. To be good, a
+duck must be fat, be it a _canvasback_, _gadwell_, _black-duck_,
+_garganey_, _poachard_, _wood-duck_, _pintail_, _shoveller_,
+_spirit-duck_, _summer-duck_, _teal_, _widgeon_, _shelldrake_, or any
+other.
+
+_How to select._--A young duck has the lower part of the legs soft, and
+the skin between the claws soft also; you will also know if it is young
+by taking hold of it by the bill (the under bill only), if it breaks or
+bends, the duck is young.
+
+If the breast of the duck is hard and thick, it is fresh enough.
+
+_How to prepare._--A duck is cleaned and prepared as directed for
+poultry.
+
+_Roasted._--Clean, prepare, and truss the duck as a chicken, with the
+exception that the rump is pushed inside; the duck being much longer
+than a chicken, it is more sightly when so trussed.
+
+Place inside of the duck two sage-leaves, two bay-leaves, and two sprigs
+of thyme, and leave it thus in a cool place for two or three hours, and
+then roast it as directed for chicken.
+
+When roasted, serve it with any of the following garnitures: cabbage,
+cauliflower, _Macédoine_, onion, or truffles.
+
+The fatty part of the gravy or drippings must be carefully and totally
+removed before turning it over the duck and garniture. It takes from
+thirty to forty minutes to roast.
+
+_Baked._--When cleaned, prepared, and trussed as directed for turkeys
+and chickens, put the duck in a bakepan, salt and pepper it, cover the
+bottom of the pan with cold water, and place it in a rather quick oven.
+
+A duck, being generally very fat, requires to be turned over and over
+several times and to be basted very often. It is not necessary to cover
+it with buttered paper. In case there is much fat in the pan, remove it
+while it is cooking.
+
+It is served as directed for roast duck, with garnitures.
+
+When roasted or baked, it is also served with apple or cranberry-sauce,
+or with currant-jelly.
+
+_With Peas._--Cut in dice about one ounce of salt pork and put it in a
+saucepan; set it on the fire, and, as soon as the butter is melted,
+brown in it a duck trussed as directed and take from the fire. Put one
+ounce of butter in a saucepan and mix it cold with a tablespoonful of
+flour, set it on the fire, and, when the butter is melted, put the duck
+in with about a quart of green peas, blanched for one or two minutes
+only; add about a pint of water or of broth, a bunch of seasonings
+composed of three or four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf,
+and one clove, salt, and pepper; boil gently till the whole is cooked,
+and serve warm.
+
+Remove all the fat carefully before serving.
+
+If the water should boil away while it is cooking, add a little more.
+
+_With Oranges._--Roast or bake a young duck as directed, and serve it
+with carpels of orange all around; and sprinkle some orange-juice all
+over just before serving it.
+
+_With Olives._--Roast or bake the duck as directed. When done, turn the
+gravy into a small saucepan with about two dozen olives; stir gently,
+and keep on the fire for about five minutes. Dish the duck, place the
+olives all around; turn the gravy over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_Sauté, served with a Border._--When cleaned and cut in eight pieces as
+directed, set it on the fire with one ounce of butter, stir occasionally
+till turning brown, then pour off the fat from the saucepan, add broth
+enough just to cover the pieces of duck; also one onion with a clove
+stuck in it, a bunch of seasonings tied with twine and composed of four
+stalks of parsley, one of thyme, and a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper; boil
+gently till done. Place the pieces of duck inside of a border of rice,
+strain the sauce over the duck only, and serve hot.
+
+The rice must be cooked, moulded, and placed on the dish while the duck
+is cooking, so as to serve the whole warm. (_See_ Rice in Border.)
+
+_To cut._--A duck is generally cut in eight pieces, the two legs and
+wings, the breast in two, and the back-bone in two.
+
+_With Turnips._--Truss the duck as directed for birds. Put one ounce of
+butter in a saucepan, set it on the fire, and, when melted, put the duck
+in, turn over now and then till it is brown on every side. Then add a
+piece of onion chopped fine, stir, and, when turning brown also, add
+water enough to half cover it; also a bunch of seasonings composed of
+three sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove; boil
+gently till done, when add salt to taste.
+
+While the duck is cooking, cut two turnips in dice or in round pieces
+with a fruit-corer, or with a vegetable spoon, set them on the fire with
+cold water and salt, boil till tender, and drain them.
+
+Put them back on the fire with the sauce or gravy from the saucepan in
+which the duck has cooked, give one boil, dish the duck, place the
+turnips around, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Cut the duck in pieces. Set a saucepan on the fire with
+an ounce of butter in it, when melted, add half a tablespoonful of
+flour, stir, and, when turning brown, add half a dozen small turnips or
+two large ones, cut with a vegetable spoon; stir, and, when they are all
+browned, take them off and brown the pieces of duck; then put the
+turnips back in the pan, add broth enough just to cover the whole; also
+two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, salt, and
+pepper; boil gently till cooked; dish the duck and turnips, turn the
+sauce over them through a strainer, and serve warm.
+
+_Cold._--What is left from the preceding day's dinner is prepared in
+_salmis_.
+
+Very often a duck is baked, especially to make a _salmis_ with it.
+(_See_ Salmis.)
+
+_Boned._--Bone, fill, cook, and serve as turkey boned.
+
+Cold duck may also be prepared in _croquettes_ and salad, like chicken.
+
+_Stuffed._--It is stuffed with sausage-meat and chestnuts, also like a
+chicken.
+
+
+  GEESE AND GOSLINGS--TAME OR WILD.
+
+A young goose has much down and soft legs of a yellow color; an old one
+has little down and rough legs of a reddish color. When fresh, the legs
+are soft; and stiff and dry when not fresh.
+
+Geese and goslings are prepared, cooked, and served like ducks, in the
+following ways: roasted and baked, and served with garnitures, with
+cranberry-sauce, currant-jelly, apple-sauce, with a border, olives,
+oranges, peas, or turnips; in _croquettes_ and in _salmis_.
+
+It is boned, cooked, and served, like a boned turkey.
+
+_In Civet._--Clean, prepare, and cut the goose in pieces, removing most
+of the fat, and then cook, and serve it like rabbit in civet.
+
+It takes a little longer than to cook a rabbit, but makes a very good
+dish.
+
+When the civet is properly made, it does not taste like goose.
+
+
+  GUINEA-FOWLS.
+
+A young Guinea-bird is good, but an old one is hardly fit to be eaten.
+
+Guinea-fowls are prepared and served like prairie-hens.
+
+
+  PIGEONS.
+
+The stall-fed or squab is prepared the same as the wild one.
+
+_To select._--If the legs are not red, they are young; and if not stiff,
+they are fresh. When not fresh, the rump is of a bluish color.
+
+Clean and prepare them as directed for fowls.
+
+_Broiled._--Split the backs of the pigeons so as to open them, flatten
+them a little with a chopper. Put two ounces of butter (for six pigeons)
+in a saucepan, and set it on a good fire; when hot, add to it a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, salt, and pepper; then
+the pigeons. When half cooked, take them from the fire, roll them in
+bread-crumbs, place them on the gridiron and set on a moderate fire,
+turn over once or twice, and, when done, serve on a _maître d'hôtel_,
+_piquante_, or _poivrade_ sauce.
+
+_Another way._--When cleaned, prepared, and split open as directed
+above, salt and pepper them, grease them slightly with melted butter, by
+means of a brush; then broil them till underdone, and serve with a
+_maître d'hôtel_ sauce.
+
+_In Chartreuse._--A _chartreuse_ with pigeons is made and served as a
+_chartreuse_ of prairie-hens.
+
+_In Papillotes._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, bake the
+pigeons till about half done, then split them in two, lengthwise, and
+then proceed as for _veal cutlets_ in papillotes.
+
+They may be fried with a little butter, instead of baked.
+
+_With Vegetables._--Clean and prepare as directed for poultry, four
+pigeons. Cut them in four pieces each.
+
+Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter, and set it on the fire; when
+melted, brown the pigeons in it, and then take them from the pan.
+
+The pigeons being taken off, put into the pan, which is kept on the
+fire, half a carrot and two onions sliced, half a turnip, sliced also;
+four or five stalks of parsley, one of thyme, one of celery, a bay-leaf,
+two cloves; the latter five tied together. Cover the whole with broth or
+water; boil gently till about half done, then add the pieces of pigeons,
+and salt and pepper; continue boiling till the whole is done.
+
+Dish the pigeons, throw away the seasonings, mash the carrot, onions,
+and turnips through a colander, which you mix with the sauce. Place the
+mixture around the pieces of pigeons, and serve warm.
+
+_Stuffed._--It is stuffed, cooked, and served like a stuffed chicken.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Put a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a
+stewpan, and set it on a good fire; when hot, add two ounces of bacon
+cut in dice, then place in four pigeons, leave thus till of a fine
+golden color, and then take pigeons and bacon off the pan. Put again in
+the stewpan the same quantity of butter as before; when melted, sprinkle
+in, little by little, a teaspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden
+spoon, and when of a proper thickness, and of a brownish color, put the
+pigeons and bacon back in, add four small onions, two sprigs of parsley,
+one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a pinch of allspice, salt, pepper, half a
+glass of broth, same of claret wine; simmer about an hour, take off
+parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, and send to the table.
+
+_The same, roasted._--Envelop each pigeon in thin slices of bacon tied
+with twine, place them on a spit before a moderate fire, baste often
+with the drippings, and, when cooked, serve them with the gravy, at the
+same time sprinkling a few drops of lemon-juice on them. It takes from
+thirty to thirty-five minutes to roast them.
+
+To roast or bake they are trussed like a chicken, as seen in the cut
+below. To carve pigeons is easy, they are merely split in two,
+lengthwise.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Baked._--Place a thin slice of fat salt pork or bacon on the breast of
+each pigeon, after being cleaned, prepared, and salted; place them in a
+bakepan, on their back; cover the bottom of the pan with cold water and
+put in a hot oven, baste often, and when done serve them with
+water-cress and lemon-juice.
+
+The pigeons are placed on the dish the same as they were in the bakepan;
+place water-cress between each, also all around and in the middle of
+them; sprinkle lemon-juice all over, and serve warm.
+
+_With Green Peas._--When cleaned and prepared, truss the pigeons and put
+them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter for half a dozen,
+stir now and then till turning rather brown all around and take off;
+then put in the saucepan about two ounces of salt pork cut in dice,
+stir, and, when partly fried, take it off also. The pan being still on
+the fire, put into it a good tablespoonful of flour, stir till it turns
+brown, when you add about a quart of broth, stir and mix; put pigeons
+and salt pork back into the pan, season with a bunch of seasonings,
+composed of half a dozen stalks of parsley, one of thyme, two
+bay-leaves, a clove, and one clove of garlic. Boil gently till nearly
+half done, and then add a quart of green peas, blanched previously; boil
+again gently till the whole is done; remove the bunch of seasonings and
+the clove of garlic; dish the pigeons, turn the peas in the same dish,
+but in the middle of the pigeons, which can be tastefully placed all
+around the dish; strain the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Prepare and truss the pigeons the same as for the
+above, and proceed also as for the above in every particular, except
+that you do not put in the saucepan quite as much broth, a pint is
+sufficient, and boil gently till done, but do not add peas.
+
+Ten minutes before taking from the fire, add a dozen mushrooms, whole or
+sliced, and half a gill of claret wine, if handy.
+
+Dish the pigeons, place the mushrooms in the middle of the dish, strain
+the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_Fried._--Take four pigeons, cut each in four pieces, put two ounces of
+butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire; when melted, put the pigeons
+in with two or three sprigs of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, a pinch of allspice, salt, pepper, and half a pint of broth.
+Take the pigeons off when half cooked, and, as soon as they are cool,
+dip each piece in beaten eggs and roll it in bread-crumbs. Strain the
+butter that may be left in the stewpan, and put it in a frying-pan with
+about an ounce more, and fry the birds for about two minutes; serve with
+water-cress or parsley all around.
+
+_In Compote._--Roast six pigeons as directed. Then cut one of them in
+dice, put it in a mortar and pound it. Put half an ounce of butter in a
+saucepan, and, when melted, fry half an onion chopped fine in it; then
+add to the pounded pigeon about a gill of gravy, a gill of good broth,
+salt, pepper, a bunch of seasonings, composed of three stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove; also about a gill of
+Madeira wine or white wine, boil gently till reduced about one-third,
+strain. Put back on the fire, add butter, and when melted stir and set
+it on the corner of the range to keep warm while the rest is prepared.
+Cut the other five pigeons in two, lengthwise. Cut ten pieces of bread
+square, or of an oval shape, and about the size of a half pigeon, fry
+them with a little butter, and place them on a dish. While the bread is
+frying, put the pigeons in an oven to warm them; place half a pigeon on
+each slice of bread, or one lapping over the other; have the slices and
+pigeons so arranged that they fill the dish, leaving only a small space
+in the middle, into which you pour the sauce; serve the whole hot.
+
+_In Crapaudine._--When prepared, split open the backs of the pigeons;
+cut the legs at the first joints and run them through the skin so that
+the ends come out on the inside; dip the bird in beaten eggs, roll them
+in bread-crumbs, and broil them.
+
+While they are broiling, knead butter, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice
+together; spread some on the pigeons when they are dished, and serve
+warm.
+
+
+  GIBLETS.
+
+By giblets are understood the gizzards, heads, legs, livers, necks, and
+ends of the wings of chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, and other birds,
+tame or wild.
+
+You begin by cleaning them well, cut off the bills, take the eyes out,
+warming the legs on live coals, so that you can take off the outer skin
+and spurs; place the giblets in a tureen, turn boiling water and a
+little salt on them, leave them thus five or six minutes, then wash well
+and drain them.
+
+_In Fricassée._--Put a piece of butter in a stewpan (the size to be
+according to the quantity of giblets you have), set it on a good fire;
+when melted, sprinkle in it, little by little, a teaspoonful of flour;
+stir the whole with a wooden spoon; when of a proper thickness, and of a
+brownish color, add half a gill of warm broth, same of warm water, a
+sprig of parsley, a small pinch of grated nutmeg, two small onions,
+salt, and pepper; then the giblets. About half an hour after add also
+two mushrooms, cut in pieces. It takes about two hours to cook them
+properly. Dish the pieces, strain the sauce, mix in it one well-beaten
+yolk of an egg, and a few drops of lemon-juice; pour it on the giblets,
+place the pieces of mushrooms over the whole, and serve.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Put the giblets in a stewpan with butter, and set
+it on a good fire; when they are of a fine yellow color, add one or two
+sprigs of parsley, a clove of garlic, a sprig of thyme, one clove, half
+a bay-leaf, two mushrooms cut in pieces, two small onions, and a pinch
+of flour; wet with broth, let simmer gently for half an hour, and add
+also two parsnips cut in slices, and previously half fried in butter;
+simmer again for about an hour; dish the pieces of meat, strain the
+sauce, put it back on the fire to reduce it a little, pour it on the
+giblets, place the pieces of mushrooms at the top, and serve hot.
+
+_Sauté._--They may also be prepared and served as a _chicken sauté_.
+
+
+  ASPIC OF MEAT.
+
+Cut four middling-sized onions in slices, lay them in a stewpan with a
+quarter of a pound of bacon (not smoked); then add about a quarter of a
+pound of each of the following meats: chicken, game (any kind), mutton,
+and beef, also a calf's foot split in two, two ounces of rind of bacon,
+two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, a clove of garlic, two carrots cut
+in two, one clove, and four small onions; wet with half a pint of water,
+and set on a brisk fire; cover the pan well. When nearly cooked, take
+the grease off with a ladle; add then boiling water enough just to cover
+the whole, and finish the cooking. Strain the juice, skim off the fat,
+if any, and let it cool; if it is not found clear enough when strained,
+beat well two whites of eggs, put them in the stewpan with the juice,
+set it on a sharp fire for about ten minutes, stirring the while, and
+take from the fire; add to it a few drops of lemon-juice, and strain
+again.
+
+Put in a mould some of the above juice, about two-eighths of an inch in
+depth; place the mould on ice, and leave till the juice has turned into
+a jelly. Lay on that jelly some of the following meats, free from bones,
+and not allowing the pieces to touch the sides of the mould: chicken,
+game, tongues of beef, calf, and sheep, of all or of either of them (the
+meats must be cooked beforehand). Cover the whole with the remainder of
+the juice, so as to have about the same thickness at the top as at the
+bottom. Place the mould in a refrigerator to cool, and turn into a
+jelly; then dip the mould in very warm water, turn over on a dish,
+remove the mould, and you have a fine _entrée_.
+
+
+
+
+  GAME.
+
+
+Game, comparatively, is appreciated only by a few.
+
+When the country was first settled, every one was his own provider, and
+of course game was not sent to a market several hundred miles from the
+place where it was shot or caught. But settlement and civilization have
+the same effect on game as they have on barbarians or savages--they
+drive it away.
+
+Our Northeastern cities are now supplied by the Western States with
+game. In winter time, game may be kept for weeks without being spoiled
+or losing its natural flavor and taste, when kept where it is killed;
+but when transported, it is very different. To transport it requires
+packing. As soon as packed, it naturally ferments; and even if packed
+when frozen, the middle of the barrel will ferment and become injured,
+if not entirely rendered unfit for the table.
+
+The packing of game or poultry in barrels is a bad practice. Nothing
+requires more ventilation than game while being transported. Many
+dealers have their game sent to them in wicker-baskets with plenty of
+straw, but the greater part is still sent in barrels; hence the musty
+taste when cooked.
+
+To keep game for some time when fresh, open the animal or bird under the
+rump, just enough to take the inside out, also the crop of birds, being
+very careful about the gall-bladder; if it bursts, it is better not to
+try to preserve the piece, but to clean, wash, and use it as soon as
+possible. Birds must be left in their feathers, and animals in their
+skins. Fill the inside with dry and clean oats, and put the piece in a
+heap or barrel of oats. It will keep thus for many days.
+
+Another way is to envelop the piece well in a towel, and bury it in
+charcoal dust in a cool and dry place.
+
+_How to clean and prepare._--Clean and prepare the birds as directed for
+poultry in general.
+
+After having carefully skinned, take out the inside, and cut the legs
+off at the first joint of animals; wash the inside with lukewarm water,
+and wipe it dry with a clean towel immediately after; wipe also the
+outside, but do not wash it if possible; that is, if you can clean it
+well by wiping only.
+
+_Wild ducks_, _geese_, _pigeons_, and _turkeys_, are prepared, cooked,
+and served like tame ones.
+
+_Bear-meat and Buffalo._--The meat of all large animals is better
+roasted, than dressed in any other way. Prepare, cook, and serve bear
+and buffalo meat like venison, beef _à la mode_, or stewed.
+
+Bear-meat has highly nutritive qualities, and is very warming.
+
+Buffalo-steaks are said to be better broiled on cinders without a
+gridiron, than on or before coals with one; that is, Indian fashion and
+even hunters' fashion.
+
+Indians often use wood-ashes as a substitute for salt, and never use
+salt with buffalo-meat; but their liking or preference comes from their
+habit of invariably broiling buffalo-meat on wood cinders or
+buffalo-chips.
+
+_Bear-hams_, so well appreciated everywhere, are prepared and served
+like common hams. A bear-ham, tastefully decorated, is considered a
+_recherché_ dish at supper for evening parties.
+
+_Blackbird_, _Bobolink_, and _Small Birds_.--The cut below represents
+six small birds on the spit, ready for _roasting_. When the birds are
+prepared, cut off the ends of the wings and the legs above the first
+joint. Instead of cutting the legs above the first joint, the ends of
+the claws only may be cut off, according to taste. Cut thin slices of
+fat salt pork, of a proper size to cover the breast of the bird; place
+the slice on the breast of it, run a skewer through the middle of the
+bird, so that it will run through the two ends of the slice of salt pork
+also, as seen in the cut.
+
+Have a skewer, or merely a piece of wire, long enough to hold six birds;
+fix the skewer on the spit, and roast.
+
+When the six birds are on the skewer, fasten them with twine, to prevent
+them from turning round, as seen in the cut.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Small birds are cleaned and prepared as directed for poultry, but they
+are not trussed, their legs being tied while tying the salt pork. While
+roasting, they are basted often with the drippings. Some water-cress and
+lemon-juice sprinkled upon them may be served with the birds. The twine
+is removed before serving, and they must be served hot; if allowed to
+cool at all, they lose their taste. It takes from ten to fifteen minutes
+to roast.
+
+_Baked._--Prepare them exactly as for roasting: place the wire or skewer
+across a baking-pan, turn them round and baste often; serve also as
+above, with the gravy, and with or without water-cress.
+
+The _bobolink_, _reed-bird_, and _rice-bird_ are the same; they are
+called under these different names at different seasons and in different
+localities; it is the American ortolan, the most delicate of small
+birds; the robin comes next.
+
+_To eat it à la Brillat-Savarin._--Take hold of the bird by the bill;
+open your mouth wide enough to introduce the whole bird into it easily;
+then shut it, at the same time biting off the bill just at its base;
+chew properly and swallow.
+
+While the birds are roasting or baking, place as many small slices of
+bread in the dripping or baking pan, and serve a bird over each slice.
+Cut the slices either square, round, or oval, about one-fourth of an
+inch in thickness, and large enough to hold the bird.
+
+_Hunter-like._--Prepare small birds as described for quails,
+hunter-like; it makes an excellent dish.
+
+_In Salmis._--Roasted or baked small birds can be prepared in _salmis_
+when cold. Many amateurs prefer small birds not drawn; that is, the crop
+only is taken off, but nothing of the inside is disturbed; they pretend
+that they have a better taste when cooked thus; of course, every one to
+his taste.
+
+_High-holders_, _lapwings_, _meadow-larks_, _plovers_, _rails_,
+_robins_, _snipes_, _thrushes_, _woodcocks_, _woodpeckers_, and
+_yellow-birds_ are prepared as above.
+
+Small birds have a better flavor when cooked after being somewhat
+seasoned than when cooked fresh, but they must not be tainted. As long
+as the rump is stiff, they are good; if soft, they must be examined
+carefully, as they might be tainted. When young, there is no stiffness
+in the legs. Small birds are generally put by the half dozen on the
+same skewer, as seen in the cut (p. 278); but when a little larger, like
+the robin or plover, they may be trussed as directed for snipes.
+
+_Grouse or Heathcock._--These are good as long as the legs are flexible;
+if not, examine them carefully, they might be rotten inside.
+
+Lard them well, envelop each in buttered paper, and place on the spit
+before a good fire; baste often, remove the paper after twenty or
+twenty-five minutes; leave two or three minutes more, basting
+continually with the drippings; dish the birds; mix with the drippings a
+few drops of lemon-juice, and a little salt and pepper, and serve with
+the birds.
+
+_Baked._--Lard the bird as for roasting; that is, the fleshy parts only
+are larded with salt pork, then truss them as directed for chicken,
+place them in a baking-pan, cover the bottom of the pan with cold water,
+put a piece of buttered paper on each bird, place in a hot oven, baste
+often till done. Serve with the gravy some water-cress, and lemon-juice,
+or vinegar.
+
+It is also prepared, cooked, and served in the different ways described
+for prairie-hen, either in _chartreuse_, _salmis_, salad, or any other
+way.
+
+_Hare._--No hares have yet been found in the United States, except in
+California. The reported hare of the Western prairies is, as far as
+known, a species of rabbit. That found in the Eastern markets comes from
+Canada and Europe. The Canadian hare is very inferior in quality.
+
+_To select._--When young it has rather soft paws, and not much opened,
+and also soft ears; but if old, the paws are hard and much worn, and the
+ears stiff and hard. If fresh, the body is stiff; it is soft, and the
+flesh is nearly black, if tainted. Save the blood as much as possible;
+it improves the sauce very much.
+
+_In Civet._--When the hare is cleaned as directed for game, cut in
+pieces. Have in a saucepan and on a good fire two ounces of butter and
+one of salt pork cut in dice. Stir, and when the salt pork is fried take
+it off the pan, and put the pieces of hare in it; stir with a wooden
+spoon now and then, till of a fine golden color; then sprinkle on it a
+teaspoonful of flour, add ten small onions, four sprigs of parsley, two
+of thyme, two cloves of garlic, a bay-leaf, salt, pepper, about a pint
+of claret wine, same of broth, three or four mushrooms, and a little
+grated nutmeg; boil gently till done; dish the pieces of hare; throw
+away parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and garlic; mix the blood of the hare, if
+any, in the sauce, boil it about ten minutes longer, turn it on the
+hare, and serve warm.
+
+Many epicures like a civet better when prepared one or two days in
+advance, and only warmed before serving. When the civet is done, and
+ready to serve, place the dish in a cool, dry place, and when you want
+to eat the civet, place the dish in a _bain-marie_, or in an oven, and
+serve when warm.
+
+_The same, roasted._--Lard the hare well; place it on the spit before a
+good fire; baste often with the drippings, and when properly cooked
+serve it with the following sauce: put in a stewpan a piece of butter
+the size of a walnut, and set it on a good fire; when melted, put in it
+the hare's liver well pounded, then the blood, if any, also the
+drippings, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of white wine, same of broth,
+and one teaspoonful of vinegar; when of a proper thickness, serve with
+the hare.
+
+It takes about an hour to roast it well.
+
+In a small family, the hind part is roasted, and the fore part of the
+hare is dressed in civet.
+
+_Baked._--Lard it with salt pork and bake it, basting often: serve in
+the same way as a roasted one.
+
+_The same, next day._--If any is left from the day before, warm it and
+serve, if in civet; cut in slices and serve cold, with an oil-sauce, if
+roasted.
+
+_Leveret._--Cook and serve like a hare.
+
+A leveret may also be _sautéd_ like a chicken.
+
+_Pheasant, to select._--When young, the claws are short and round at the
+end, while they are long and sharp when old. They are not fresh when the
+rump is of a bluish color, but some amateurs like them then; in that
+state, they are said to have a venison taste. Some hang the bird by the
+feathers of the tail and leave it so till it falls; then they prepare
+and eat it. It does not fall until very "high," or rather when tainted.
+They ought not to be cooked when very fresh, as they have not as
+delicate a taste then as when rather "high."
+
+_Pheasants_ are prepared, cooked, and served like _prairie-birds_ in
+every way.
+
+_Crane, Ostrich, Peacock, Pelican, or other Large Birds._--These birds
+are seldom eaten. When old, they are tough, and of a disagreeable taste.
+When young, they are not so bad, and may be prepared like a turkey
+stuffed or stewed.
+
+_Prairie-bird, Prairie-hen, and Partridge._--An old prairie-hen has a
+white bill and bluish legs; when young, the bill is of a rather
+dark-gray color, and the legs are yellowish. As long as the rump does
+not turn bluish, it is fresh enough.
+
+_To prepare._--Clean and prepare a prairie-hen as directed for poultry
+in general.
+
+_Baked._--Clean and prepare the bird as directed, then cut off the claws
+to about half their length. Truss the prairie-hen as directed for
+chicken, and then cover its breast with a thin slice of fat salt pork,
+but do not cover the back of the bird. Tie the salt pork with twine.
+Place the prairie-hen on its back in the baking-pan, with a piece of
+butter the size of a walnut on it; set it in a quick oven (about 400
+deg. Fahr.), baste often, and serve when rather underdone. While the
+bird is baking, prepare some fresh water-cress, place some of it all
+around the bird; mix lemon-juice with the gravy and turn it over the
+bird and water-cress, and serve warm. It may also be served after being
+baked, the same as directed for a roasted one.
+
+_Broiled._--Clean and prepare as directed, then split the back of the
+prairie-hen so as to open it; salt, pepper, and butter it by means of a
+brush; place it on the gridiron over a good fire; turn over three or
+four times; as soon as done, sprinkle on it a little allspice, dish the
+bird, spread a _maître d'hôtel_ sauce on it, and serve warm. It is also
+served with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, or _ravigote sauce_.
+
+_Another way._--Split the prairie-hen in two lengthwise so as to make
+two equal pieces. Put one ounce of butter in a stewpan and set it on a
+good fire; when melted, lay the two halves of the bird in; turn over and
+leave them till a little more than half cooked, when take them off.
+Envelop each piece in buttered paper, place them on the gridiron, and
+set it on a rather brisk fire for about fifteen minutes, turning over
+once only, and serve with the following sauce: Put with the butter in
+the pan in which was the bird, about a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+same of chopped mushrooms, salt, pepper, and a pinch of allspice;
+sprinkle in and stir at the same time a teaspoonful of flour; add a gill
+of white wine, same of broth; boil gently till of a proper thickness,
+and serve the bird with it, either on the same dish or separately. Serve
+as warm as possible.
+
+_With Cabbage._--Clean and truss the prairie-chicken as directed for
+birds; fry it a little with butter, just enough to color it; then place
+a cabbage, previously blanched, cut in four pieces, all around it; also
+about four ounces of lean salt pork, one onion whole; just cover the
+whole with cold water (it requires about one pint of it if the pan is of
+a proper size); when the cabbage is boiled down, baste occasionally with
+the juice, and if it boils away add a little broth or water; keep enough
+to baste till done, then dish the prairie-chicken with the cabbage
+around, also the salt pork if liked; turn the juice all over through a
+strainer. In case it is not salt enough, add salt while basting. The
+flesh of a prairie-chicken is naturally dry, and by being cooked with
+cabbage it is kept moist all the time and is juicy when done. For those
+who have no prejudice against cabbage, it is the best way to prepare a
+prairie-bird.
+
+_Another way._--Lard two prairie-birds as directed for larding, after
+being cleaned and prepared as directed. Put in a stewpan half a pound of
+bacon cut in slices, with four onions, two carrots cut in pieces, a
+small dried or Bologna sausage, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, two
+cloves, a bay-leaf, a little grated nutmeg, and a cabbage cut rather
+fine, and which is to be previously thrown in boiling water and boiled
+ten minutes; then the two partridges or prairie-hens; place over the
+whole four ounces of bacon cut in thin slices, cover with broth, set the
+pan on a sharp fire, and when it has boiled about fifteen minutes,
+subdue the fire, or put the pan in a moderately heated oven, simmer
+about two hours if the partridges are old, and one hour if they are
+young; then take from the fire, place the partridges on a dish with the
+sausage cut in pieces around them, drain the cabbage and put it on
+another dish with the bacon, strain the sauce on both dishes, and serve.
+
+_In Chartreuse._--It is made in a mould for _Charlotte russe_, or in one
+like the cut following. Clean the prairie-hen as directed for birds;
+put it in a baking-pan with one ounce of butter spread on it, also salt
+and pepper, and a gill of cold water in the pan, and bake till
+underdone, when cut it in seven pieces, making three slices in the
+breast, lengthwise. Peel and slice two carrots and two turnips; cut the
+slices about an inch thick; then cut again in small round pieces, with a
+fruit-corer, about half an inch in diameter; set them on the fire with
+cold water and salt, boil gently till done, drain and turn immediately
+in cold water, and they are ready to be used. Put a small head of
+cabbage in a saucepan with half a pound of lean salt pork, just cover it
+with cold water, and boil gently till done. The prairie-hen, carrots,
+and turnips, and the cabbage, may be cooked at the same time, but
+separately, as directed. When the cabbage is done, turn it into a
+colander, cut it rather fine with a spoon, press gently on it to get the
+water out as much as possible without mashing it through the colander,
+and it is ready to be used. Butter the mould well; place slices of
+boiled beets on the bottom; some letters or flowers may be cut in beet,
+the intervals or holes filled with turnips and carrots; when the bottom
+is lined with beets, carrots, and turnips, lay horizontally a row of
+pieces of carrots all around and against the sides of the mould; place a
+similar one of turnips on the carrots, and so on, the last row being as
+high as the top of the mould. Then put a layer of the cabbage on the
+bottom, about half an inch thick--that is, on the carrots, turnips, and
+beets--place a like layer on the sides with a spoon; put the pieces of
+prairie-hen in the middle, cover with a layer of cabbage, and bake about
+fifteen minutes in an oven at about 350 deg. Fahr. The meat must not
+touch the carrots or turnips, but be entirely surrounded with cabbage,
+else it would crumble down in removing the mould. As soon as the mould
+is taken out of the oven, place a dish over it and turn it upside down,
+leave it so about ten minutes to allow the juice to come out, then
+remove the mould carefully, and serve.
+
+The cut below represents a _chartreuse_ made exactly like the one
+described above, with the exception that instead of having a row of
+carrots and a row of turnips, they are mixed, that is, placed
+alternately, the white spots representing pieces of turnips and the
+black spots pieces of carrots--the top being decorated according to
+fancy.
+
+According to the size of the mould, two, three, or more prairie-hens may
+be prepared at one time and in the same mould.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Roasted._--Rub the stomach and legs of the birds with lemon, then
+envelop those parts with slices of bacon tied with twine, or fixed with
+small skewers; after which envelop the whole bird in buttered paper tied
+with twine; place them on a spit before a good fire, take the paper off
+after twenty or thirty minutes, according to the age of the bird; leave
+two or three minutes longer, baste often during the process of roasting,
+with the drippings; dish the birds without removing the slices of bacon;
+mix in the gravy the juice of half a lemon, or half an orange, a little
+salt and pepper, and serve it with the birds. It may also be served
+with water-cress and lemon-juice or vinegar. When roasted or baked and
+dished, place carpels of oranges all around, and serve.
+
+A roasted or baked prairie-hen is also served with the following sauces:
+anchovy, caper, Champagne, cranberry, and _ravigote_ or tomato, and
+currant-jelly.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--When roasted or baked, serve it with a garniture of
+mushrooms. It is also served with a garniture of cauliflowers,
+_financière_, _Macédoine_, and of truffles.
+
+_In Fricassée._--Prepare, cook, and serve it like chicken in
+_fricassée_.
+
+_In Crapaudine._--Proceed as for pigeons in _crapaudine_, the only
+difference being that it takes a little longer to cook. It is also
+prepared and served as a quail, _hunter-like_. It takes longer to cook
+than a quail.
+
+_Sauté._--Clean, prepare, cut, cook, dish, and serve the prairie-bird as
+a chicken sauté.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean, prepare, and truss the bird as directed. Put about one
+ounce of butter and two ounces of fat salt pork, cut in dice, in a
+saucepan, and set it on a quick fire; toss gently, and when the butter
+is melted, put the bird in and brown it all around; then add four small
+onions, half a carrot in slices, salt, and pepper; stir till the onions
+and carrot are partly fried; then add half a pint of broth, same of
+white wine, a bunch of seasonings composed of four or five stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, one bay-leaf, and a clove; boil gently till done;
+dish the bird, turn the sauce over it through a strainer, and serve
+warm. Thus stewed, it may be served with the following _purées_:
+asparagus, beans, lentils, lima beans, mushrooms, and peas.
+
+_Cold._--A whole bird or part of it left from the preceding day's
+dinner, if it has been broiled, baked, or roasted, is prepared and
+served in salad, like a chicken salad; or in _salmis_.
+
+_Boned._--A boned prairie-bird makes an excellent dish and a most
+nutritious and warming one. Persons having a phlegmatic constitution
+ought to partake of it at least twice a week during hunting-time. Always
+select a very fresh and fat bird to bone. Pick, bone, fill, cook, and
+serve it as described for boned turkey. A prairie-hen is more easily
+boned, when fresh, than an ordinary chicken. The addition of truffles
+(about half a pound for one bird) makes it still richer and warmer.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Prepare, cook, and serve as chicken croquettes.
+
+_Quails._--A quail, like a prairie-bird, is old when it has a white bill
+and bluish legs; when young, the bill is of a rather dark-gray color,
+and the legs are yellowish. Quails are just the contrary of pheasants;
+the more fresh they are when cooked, the better.
+
+_To prepare._--When cleaned and prepared as directed for poultry, cut
+off the end of the claws, and then truss it as a chicken, sprinkle salt
+and pepper on the breast. Cut thin slices of fat salt pork, somewhat
+square, and of a proper size to cover the breast of the bird, but not
+the back. Tie it to the bird with two pieces of twine, then roast or
+bake.
+
+_Another way to prepare them._--When cleaned, prepared, and trussed as
+above, envelop the bird with grape-vine leaves, then in thin slices of
+salt-pork, and roast or bake them. They may also be enveloped in
+buttered paper, after being prepared, instead of salt pork or grape-vine
+leaves, or instead of both, but only to roast them; if baked, the
+buttered paper is placed over the birds.
+
+_Baked._--Place the birds on their backs in a baking-pan, with a piece
+of butter the size of a hazel-nut on each, just cover the bottom of the
+pan with cold water, and set in a quick oven (about 400° Fahr.) and
+baste now and then. When about half done, put the liver of the birds,
+well pounded, in the baking-pan, and continue basting till done. While
+the quails are baking, cut as many square slices of stale bread as you
+have quails, about three inches broad and one-fourth of an inch thick;
+fry them in hot fat, place them on the dish, place a quail with the
+breast upward on each slice; remove the twine, turn the gravy over them
+and serve warm. Water-cress may be placed between each bird, as well as
+all around, and in the middle of the dish, with vinegar or lemon-juice
+sprinkled all over. It must also be served warm.
+
+_Hunter-like (au Chasseur)._--Clean and prepare as directed for birds.
+Set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter to melt, then put
+in it four quails trussed as for roasting; turn them round in the pan to
+color every side; add then half a dozen stalks of parsley, salt, pepper,
+and nearly cover them with broth and white wine, half of each; boil
+gently till done. Dish the quails, and put them away in a warm place.
+Strain the sauce and put it back on the fire with a tablespoonful of
+_meunière_, boil rather fast till it commences turning thick, turn over
+the quails and serve warm.
+
+_Roasted._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, envelop the birds in
+grape-vine leaves and salt pork, or in buttered paper, as directed
+above, and place them on the spit before a moderate though good fire.
+Have slices of roasted bread in the dripping-pan, baste often with the
+drippings, and when done remove the twine, or the twine and paper, but
+neither the salt pork nor the grape-vine leaves, and serve warm. The
+slices of bread are placed on the dish, then a quail on each slice.
+Water-cress may also be served as above.
+
+Quails roasted with grape-vine leaves are considered one of the most
+_recherché_ dishes. When about half roasted, the liver of the birds,
+well pounded, is put in the dripping-pan, and the drippings are turned
+over the birds when dished. When pounded, the livers may be spread on
+the slices of bread before placing them in the dripping-pan.
+
+_With Green Peas._--When the quails are roasted or baked, they may be
+served with green peas _au jus_. They may also be served on a _purée_ of
+celery or of mushrooms.
+
+_In Chartreuse._--Proceed exactly as for a _chartreuse_ of prairie-bird.
+Quails may be served in every way like prairie-hens, _stewed_, in
+_salad_, in _salmis_, etc.
+
+_Rabbit--to select._--A rabbit, like almost every other kind of game,
+has a better taste when a little seasoned, but not too much so. As long
+as the body is rather stiff, it is good; but when soft, and when the
+flesh has a black-bluish appearance, it is necessary to examine it
+carefully, as it might be tainted. A young rabbit has soft paws, and are
+not much opened; but an old one has them open, hard, and worn out. The
+ears of a young one are very soft, while those of an old one are stiff
+and comparatively rough. The blood of the rabbit is a great improvement
+when mixed with the sauce or gravy accompanying it when served;
+therefore, we emphatically and earnestly ask of hunters, when they kill
+rabbits, to place them in their game-bags in such a position that the
+place where the shots have penetrated and through which the blood is
+escaping, be upward, and consequently stop the spilling of it.
+
+Tame rabbits, unless they have been kept in a large place, well fed,
+free from any manure or dirt, and having also plenty of room to burrow
+in a dry soil, are very seldom fit to eat.
+
+_To lard._--The fleshy parts of a rabbit are larded with salt pork in
+the same way as described for a fillet of beef.
+
+_Baked._--To bake it, it may be larded or not, according to taste. When
+cleaned and prepared as directed for game, place the rabbit in a
+baking-pan, with a few slices of onion and carrot; salt, pepper, and
+butter it; cover the bottom of the pan with cold water and set it in a
+quick oven. After ten or fifteen minutes, turn the rabbit over, baste
+and cover it with a piece of buttered paper. Continue basting till done.
+When about half done, if the water and juice are boiling away or
+absorbed, add more water or broth, and when done turn the gravy over the
+rabbit through a strainer, and serve with water-cress and a few drops of
+lemon-juice or vinegar.
+
+It is also served with a _cranberry_, _fines herbes_, _mushroom_,
+_piquante_, _ravigote_, _tomato_, and _truffle_ sauce.
+
+_In Chartreuse._--A rabbit is prepared in _chartreuse_ the same as a
+prairie-chicken; the only difference is, that it requires a larger
+mould; the rest of the process is the same.
+
+_In Civet, or stewed._--Cut the rabbit in pieces, and fry them with a
+little butter till turning rather brown, when add half a pound of lean
+salt pork cut in dice; stir and fry two or three minutes, stir in also a
+tablespoonful of flour; one minute after add a half pint of broth, same
+of claret wine, salt, twelve small onions, and a bunch of seasonings,
+composed of three or four sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a
+clove of garlic, one clove. Boil gently till done; throw away the bunch
+of seasonings, and serve warm. In case it is not handy to use claret
+wine, use a gill of Madeira, or Port, or Sherry wine, and one gill of
+water. Without wine at all it makes an inferior dish.
+
+A civet made three or four days in advance, and warmed in a _bain-marie_
+for ten minutes, once every day, is better than if eaten as soon as
+made.
+
+In case the sauce is becoming too thick, after warming the rabbit
+several times, add a little broth, and also a little butter; stir
+gently, and always serve as warm as possible.
+
+_In Crapaudine._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, cook and serve
+the rabbit as described for pigeon in _crapaudine_, with the exception
+that it takes a little longer to cook.
+
+_In Croquettes._--What may be left from the preceding day's dinner of a
+baked, roasted, or stuffed rabbit, may be prepared in _croquettes_, in
+the same way as chicken _croquettes_.
+
+_With Currant-Jelly._--A rabbit served with currant-jelly makes a
+sightly dish, but it requires care and taste. Skin the rabbit carefully,
+leaving the ears unskinned. Cut the legs at the first joint, then dip
+the ears in hot (but not boiling) water, and scrape off the hair
+carefully. Draw it and wash the inside carefully also, putting away the
+liver, heart, and lungs. Chop fine one middling-sized onion, and fry it
+with about one ounce of butter; then add to the onion, and fry them
+also, the heart, liver, and lungs of the rabbit, after being chopped
+fine, when add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg
+grated, and a piece of clove also grated. Stir for about one minute,
+take from the fire, mix with it two yolks of eggs and one ounce of
+butter. Fill the rabbit with the mixture, sew up the incision made to
+draw it, and then truss it in the following way: Put the rabbit on the
+paste-board so that it appears as if it were resting, lying on its
+belly. Skewer the ears so that they seem to be naturally bent on the
+back of the neck. With a trussing-needle fasten the forelegs so that
+they look also as if naturally bent by the animal when at rest. Roast or
+bake it, and serve it with the gravy and _currant_ or _raspberry jelly_.
+
+It is placed on the dish lying on its belly, the skewers and twine are
+removed, and a few sprigs of parsley are placed in its mouth. The
+currant-jelly may be served in a saucer and the gravy in another.
+
+_In Gibelotte._--The only difference between a _gibelotte_ and a civet
+is that the latter is made with claret wine and the former with Sauterne
+or Catawba. Other white wine may be used, but the two kinds above
+mentioned are the best.
+
+_Marengo._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, cut the rabbit in
+pieces; keep the head, neck, and trimmings, to make a potage _au
+chasseur_, and cook and serve the rest as a chicken _à la Marengo_.
+
+_In Papillotes._--The four legs and two pieces cut on both sides of the
+backbone may be prepared, cooked, and served as veal cutlets in
+_papillotes_. The rest is used to make a potage _au chasseur_.
+
+_With Olives._--When baked or roasted, serve it as a duck with olives,
+putting three dozen olives instead of two.
+
+_Roasted._--It may be roasted with only a little butter spread all over
+it, or enveloped in buttered paper; or larded with salt pork; or larded
+and enveloped in buttered paper. It must be basted often, and if
+enveloped with paper, the paper must be removed about fifteen minutes
+before taking the rabbit from the fire. Ascertain when done by means of
+a skewer or a small sharp-pointed knife. It takes about forty-five
+minutes to roast, according to size and fire. When roasted it may be
+served with its gravy or drippings only, or with a _cranberry_, _fines
+herbes_, _mushroom_, _piquante_, _Provençale_, _ravigote_, _Tartar_,
+_tomato_, _or truffle_ sauce.
+
+_With Green Peas._--When baked or roasted, serve it with green peas _au
+jus_.
+
+_Sauté._--When the rabbit is cleaned and prepared as directed, proceed
+as for a chicken _sauté_ in every particular.
+
+_Sportsman-like._--Clean and prepare the rabbit, then cut off the neck,
+head, and the end of the legs, which you keep to make a potage _au
+chasseur_. Put the rest in a crockery vessel with the juice of a lemon,
+salt, and pepper. Leave thus for at least one day, turning it over two
+or three times. Then bake or roast it, and serve with the gravy and
+water-cress.
+
+_Stewed._--When cleaned and prepared, cut the rabbit in pieces. Put in a
+saucepan three ounces of butter and set it on the fire; as soon as
+melted, put the pieces of rabbit in, stir now and then till they are
+turning rather brown, then take them from the pan but keep it on the
+fire. Put in it a rather small carrot and two or three onions, both
+sliced, a few slices of turnip, half a dozen sprigs of parsley, two of
+celery, one of thyme, the last three tied together with twine, and two
+or three cloves, also half a pint of Madeira or Sherry wine, salt, and
+pepper; cover the whole with broth or water; boil gently till half done,
+when add the rabbit, and continue boiling till the whole is done,
+stirring once in a while. Dish the rabbit, mash the onions, carrot, and
+turnip, through a colander, which you put all around the pieces of
+rabbit, strain the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_Cold._--What is left is warmed and served, if from a civet, giblotte,
+stewed, etc., and served with a _vinaigrette_, if from a roasted or
+baked piece. It may also be served with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, or
+_ravigote_ sauce.
+
+_Snipe--to truss._--Prepare as directed for poultry. Cut the wings off
+just above the second joint, as seen in the cut below. The head and legs
+must be cleaned very carefully. By heating the lower part of the legs
+and the claws, the skin can be easily removed, but this is not
+necessary, they may be singed and washed only. Fold the legs and run the
+bill of the bird through the two legs and the body. Put a slice of fat
+salt pork on the breast of the snipe, which you fasten there with twine,
+as seen in the cut below. The cut represents the bird on the spit, ready
+for roasting.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Stewed._--Take four snipes and pound the livers, hearts, and lungs well
+with about the same amount of fat salt pork; then add to them about a
+teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, and the yolk of an egg; divide the
+mixture in four parts and put each part in a bird, which you sew and
+truss as directed. Line the bottom of a stewpan with slices of salt pork
+and lay the snipe on them; set on a slow fire for ten minutes, add about
+half a pint of white wine, same of broth; simmer till done, dish the
+birds, strain the gravy on them, sprinkle a few drops of lemon-juice
+over the whole, and serve warm. Snipes are served in several ways, as
+described for bobolinks and other small birds.
+
+_Salmis._--A salmis is made with tame ducks and any kind of game birds.
+
+Birds may be roasted or baked to make a _salmis_, but most generally it
+is made with cold birds, that is, what is left from the previous day's
+dinner. It is certainly the best way to make use of cold birds. The
+proportions of the different seasonings are according to the proportion
+of meat. We give below the proportions for a whole bird; it will be easy
+to augment or reduce. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it
+on the fire; as soon as melted stir into it a tablespoonful of flour;
+when turning rather yellow add one pint of broth, same of claret wine, a
+bunch of seasonings composed of four or five sprigs of parsley, one of
+thyme, a bay-leaf and a clove, also salt, pepper, and a clove of garlic;
+boil gently about thirty-five minutes. Strain the sauce into a saucepan.
+Cut the bird or part of bird in pieces, the same as they are generally
+carved; put them in the pan with the sauce; place the saucepan in a
+_bain-marie_ till the meat is warm, add some lemon-juice, and serve.
+While the meat is warming, cut some stale bread in _croutons_, fry them
+with a little butter.
+
+_To serve._--A _salmis_ is served in two ways: first, the _croutons_ are
+placed on the dish, a piece of meat is put on each, and then the sauce
+is poured all over; second, dish the meat and sauce, place the
+_croutons_ all around the dish, with a piece of lemon or bitter orange
+between each _crouton_. When the _croutons_ are served under the pieces
+of meat, you must have as many as there are pieces; when served around
+the dish, have enough of them, and of slices of lemon, to surround the
+dish. The _croutons_ and slices of lemon are always placed around the
+meat and on the border of the dish. The lemon or orange is first split
+in two lengthwise, then cut in eight, twelve, or sixteen slices, always
+commencing to cut on the inside and finishing by the rind. Chop fine the
+bones, heart, and liver of the bird, and put them in the saucepan at the
+same time with the broth. Truffles or mushrooms sliced may be added to
+the sauce, if liked, but only when strained.
+
+_Another._--Carve the bird or part of it, and serve cold with the
+following sauce; pound the liver of the bird and put it in a saucer; add
+to it a little vinegar, salt, pepper, and stir and mix the whole; then
+add about three times as much oil as vinegar, mix again, then
+lemon-juice, stir, and serve. It may be made without vinegar at all,
+using lemon-juice instead of vinegar to mix at first.
+
+
+  OPOSSUM, OTTER, RACCOON, SKUNK, FOX, WOODCHUCK, AND OTHER LIKE ANIMALS.
+
+We cannot say that we have had much experience in cooking the above
+animals, but they are all eaten by many persons, in different parts of
+this and other countries. We have tasted of all or them except the
+raccoon, and we must say that we found them palatable. It is well known
+that when our soldiers retook possession of Ship Island, they found
+plenty of raccoons on it, and ate all they could catch. One day we
+happened to meet a sub-officer, who was there at the time, and inquired
+of him about it. He said he had never eaten any raccoons before, and did
+not know that they were eatable; but now he could eat them as readily as
+rabbit, as they were quite as good.
+
+The best time to eat any of the animals enumerated above is from
+Christmas to the 15th of February.
+
+_How to prepare them._--As soon as the animal is killed skin it, take
+the inside out, save the liver and heart, and wash well with lukewarm
+water and a little salt, inside and out; then wipe dry with a towel, put
+inside a few leaves of sage, bay-leaves, mint, and thyme, and sew it up.
+Hang it outside in a place sheltered from the sun, such as the northern
+side of a building; leave it thus five or six days, then take off, and
+cook.
+
+_How to skin a Skunk._--We were hunting one day in New Jersey, northwest
+of Paterson, with a friend and two farmers living there, when one of
+them shot a skunk. We asked him how much he could get for the skin. He
+said it was not worth while to take it to town, but that he would eat
+the animal, as it was very good.
+
+We thought at first that he was joking; but putting his gun and game-bag
+to the ground, he looked at us earnestly, and said, "Gentlemen, you seem
+to doubt; I will show you how it is done." We soon saw that we had been
+mistaken.
+
+We made a fire, took hold of the skunk by the head with one hand, and
+with a stick in the other held the skunk over the fire. He burnt off
+nearly all the hair, taking care to avoid burning the skin, commencing
+at the hind legs; then with his hunting-knife he carefully cut off the
+bag containing the fetid matter, and skinned and cleaned it.
+
+We then examined the skunk, and although it had not been washed, we
+could not find any part of it with a bad smell, and if we had not seen
+the whole operation we certainly would not have thought that it was a
+skunk, the very name of which is repulsive.
+
+The following week we dined with the farmer, ate some of that identical
+skunk, and found it very good.
+
+_How to cook the above-named Animals._--Take out the leaves of sage,
+etc., which you put in the animal before exposing it to the weather.
+Pound well the liver and heart with about the same quantity of bacon,
+then mix that with two or three teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, a pinch
+of grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper; stuff the animal with that mixture,
+and also with six small onions fried in butter, and a bunch of seasoning
+composed of four sprigs of parsley, three of thyme, two cloves, two
+cloves of garlic, and two bay-leaves, and sew it up again. Butter it
+well all over, place it on a spit before a very quick fire; put three or
+four sage-leaves in the dripping-pan, and baste often with the
+drippings. Serve it when cooked with the gravy, throwing away the
+sage-leaves.
+
+It may also be served with a _Mayonnaise_, _ravigote_, or _Tartar_
+sauce.
+
+_Squirrel._--A squirrel is prepared as a rabbit in every particular.
+
+
+  VENISON.
+
+If young, the hoof is not much opened, and the fat is thick and clear;
+when old, the hoofs are wide open. To know if it is fresh enough, run a
+knife or a skewer through the leg or through the shoulder, and if it
+does not smell bad and stale, it is good. It is not as delicate when
+fresh as when it has been killed for five or six days. If fresh when you
+buy it, keep it from three to eight days before cooking it.
+
+_To improve._--Put the piece of venison in a crockery vessel. For about
+six pounds put a pint of vinegar in a saucepan with two bay-leaves, two
+cloves, two cloves of garlic, one onion sliced, two stalks of thyme,
+four of parsley, and twelve pepper-corns; set it on the fire, give one
+boil, and turn over the piece of venison. Turn the piece of meat over
+occasionally for one or two days, and then cook it.
+
+_Another way._--Lard the piece of venison and put it in a crockery
+vessel; spread all over two or three onions and a clove or two of garlic
+(both sliced), half a gill of sweet-oil, same of claret wine, a pinch of
+allspice, four cloves, and two sprigs of thyme; baste twice a day for
+two or three days, and then cook.
+
+_To bake._--Put the venison in a baking-pan with the seasonings in which
+it has improved; spread some butter on it, and bake in a rather quick
+oven; baste now and then, and turn over if necessary. When baked, serve
+with a _ravigote_ sauce, to which you have added the gravy from the pan
+in which it has been baked. Serve it also with a cranberry, _piquante_,
+_Robert_, or _Tartar_ sauce, or with currant-jelly.
+
+_In Civet._--Shoulder, neck, and breast-pieces are cut and prepared in
+civet, in the same way as a civet of rabbit.
+
+It may also be kept three or four days and warmed in a _bain-marie_; it
+improves it as much as that of rabbit.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Any piece of venison, baked or roasted, may be served
+with a garniture of mushrooms.
+
+_Cutlets, broiled._--The cutlets are much better when improved as
+directed. The seasonings are spread all over. They are then wrapped up
+in buttered paper and broiled on a quick fire. They may also be larded
+with salt pork, and then broiled with or without being enveloped in
+paper. When broiled and dished, serve them warm with a _maître d'hôtel_
+or _ravigote_ sauce.
+
+_Sautées._--Put six cutlets in a stewpan, larded or not, with salt,
+pepper, eight small onions, two carrots, four sprigs of parsley, two of
+thyme, two cloves, a bay-leaf, a gill of broth, and same of water; set
+it on a good fire and boil gently till cooked. Dish the cutlets so that
+every small end or bone rests on the larger end of another, and serve
+with the sauce strained on them. If more sauce is desired, add to it any
+of the following: cranberry, _piquante_, _ravigote_, _Robert_, or
+_Tartar_.
+
+_Haunch, roasted._--After being improved, if liked, remove the thin skin
+around it and lard it with salt pork; it may be roasted without larding,
+but it is certainly an improvement, the meat being naturally dry. Place
+it on the spit before a brisk fire and near it; baste with melted butter
+first, and then with the drippings till done. If it is larded, it will
+require less butter. As soon as a kind of crust forms around the meat,
+remove it a little from the fire by degrees. Ascertain with a skewer or
+small knife when done. Venison is generally served rather underdone,
+when roasted or baked.
+
+To make the dish more sightly, the skin and hair of the lower part of
+the leg, together with the hoof, are left untouched. To prevent them
+from burning while it is roasting, envelop these parts with a wet towel,
+which you cover with several sheets of buttered or oiled paper. It may
+be necessary to dip the towel in water two or three times during the
+process of roasting. When roasted, serve with any of the following
+sauces: cranberry, _piquante_, _poivrade_, _ravigote_, _Robert_, or
+_Tartar_; also with currant-jelly. If served with the gravy only, add
+water-cress and lemon-juice or vinegar.
+
+_Baked._--Prepare it as directed for roasting; then place it in a
+bakepan with a little cold water, just enough to cover the bottom of the
+pan; sprinkle salt and pepper all over, spread some butter on the upper
+side and put in a quick oven. Turn over and baste now and then till
+done. If the water is absorbed, add more. When baked, serve with the
+same sauces as if roasted, and also with currant-jelly and water-cress.
+
+_Saddle._--Roast or bake the saddle, and serve it as directed for a
+haunch, with the same sauces, and also with water-cress and
+currant-jelly.
+
+_Shoulder._--Cut the shoulder in fillets and lard them slightly. Put in
+a stewpan four ounces of butter and set it on a brisk fire; when hot,
+lay the fillets in, and when of a golden color add the seasonings in
+which you have improved the saddle, or the same ones if you have not
+done it; then subdue the fire, wet with a little warm broth, simmer till
+cooked, dish the fillets, strain the sauce on them, and serve. It may
+also be dressed entire, with the bones off; but it is more generally
+done in fillets. It is boned like a shoulder of mutton, and roasted or
+baked, and served like a haunch, with the same sauces and with
+currant-jelly or water-cress.
+
+_Stewed._--Cut the meat in square pieces, about two inches in size. Have
+in a stewpan, and on a good fire, a piece of butter the size of a duck's
+egg; when melted, sprinkle in, little by little, a tablespoonful of
+flour, stirring the while with a wooden spoon; when getting rather
+thick, add two ounces of bacon cut in dice, also half a pint of claret
+wine, same of warm water, salt, pepper, a pinch of allspice, two
+shallots chopped fine, or two green onions, four or five mushrooms, two
+cloves of garlic, and six onions; then lay the meat on the whole, and
+boil gently till cooked. Dish the meat, boil the sauce till of a
+brownish color, skim off the fat if there is too much of it, take out
+the cloves of garlic, turn the sauce on the meat, and serve hot.
+
+_With Truffles or Mushrooms._--Any part of venison, baked or roasted,
+may be served with a garniture of mushrooms, or one of truffles.
+
+_Cold._--When you have some left for the next day, warm it before
+serving it, if from a stew; but if from a roasted haunch, cut in slices
+and serve cold with a _vinaigrette_.
+
+
+  SNAILS.
+
+A good many are now imported from Europe.
+
+_How to clean and prepare._--Throw them in boiling water, in which you
+have put some wood-ashes; leave them in till they have thrown their
+cover wide open, which will take about fifteen minutes; then take them
+off, pull them out of the shell by means of a fork, place them in
+lukewarm water, and leave two hours; next, rub them in your hands, and
+then soak in cold water; rub them again in your hands in cold water, two
+or three times, changing the water each time, so as to take away most of
+their sliminess. Wash the shells in lukewarm water with a
+scrubbing-brush, and drain them when clean.
+
+_Broiled._--Knead together and make a paste of a sufficient quantity of
+butter, parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; say about
+two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of parsley, a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and the same of nutmeg (for two dozen). Put a
+piece of the above paste, the size of a kidney bean, in each shell, then
+the snails, and at the top again the same quantity of paste; lay them
+one by one close together, in a crockery or cast-iron kettle, the mouth
+of the snails up, and not one upon another; cover the kettle well; set
+it on a moderate fire, or in a moderately heated oven, and leave thus
+till cooked, which is easily seen by the parsley beginning to turn
+black, or as if fried. Lay them on a dish in the same order, and if
+there is any gravy in the kettle, put a part of it in each shell, and
+serve hot.
+
+In eating them, be careful after having taken off the snail and eaten
+it, to turn down the shell, for there is some juice in the bottom of it
+which is delicious; the best way is to drink it as if from the bottom of
+a glass.
+
+They can be broiled on a gridiron, but they are not as good as in a
+kettle; some of the juice is lost, and also the flavor.
+
+_Stewed._--Put in a stewpan four ounces of butter for fifty snails, and
+set it on a good fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of
+flour, stirring a while; then add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine,
+two sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, a pint of white wine, and then the
+snails, which you have previously put back into their shells; cover the
+whole with warm broth, boil gently till the sauce is reduced and the
+snails are cooked, and serve them mouth upward, and filled with the
+sauce.
+
+
+
+
+  VEGETABLES.
+
+
+Green vegetables must look fresh, and have nothing rotten about them.
+
+_To boil or blanch Green Vegetables._--Whatever they are, spinach, green
+peas, asparagus, etc., put some cold water and a little salt on the
+fire; clean the vegetable, wash it if necessary, then drop it in the
+water at the first boil; keep boiling for a time or till done; drain,
+and immediately drop it in cold water; drain again before using. It is
+impossible to tell how long it takes to boil; it depends entirely on the
+nature of the vegetable: for instance, spinach, as well as peas or any
+other vegetable, according to how tender it is, may take from three to
+twenty minutes to cook properly. Dry vegetables, such as beans, peas,
+lentils, etc., are washed or soaked in cold water, drained, and then set
+on the fire with cold water and no salt. Salt renders beans much harder
+and retards their cooking. Other vegetables that are neither green nor
+dry, such as carrots, turnips, etc., are generally set on the fire with
+cold water and salt. If prepared in other ways, it is explained in the
+receipts.
+
+Potatoes are generally steamed; when they must be boiled, it is
+explained. We recommend to drop the green vegetables in the water at the
+first boil, because, in boiling, water evaporates its gases and alkali,
+and is therefore inferior for cooking purposes. Green vegetables are
+more acid here than in Europe, on account of the newness and richness of
+the soil; so is some fruit.
+
+_Artichokes_.--The artichoke we refer to here is the plant somewhat
+resembling a thistle, having a large, scaly head, like the cone of the
+pine-tree; the lower part of the leaves composing the head, with the
+broad receptacle underneath, is the eatable part. It is a native of
+Sicily, and is an excellent and delicate vegetable. It grows well here,
+and the reason why it is not more generally known is because some
+persons who are used to live on coarse food have underrated it--their
+palates not being fit to appreciate its delicate flavor. We recommend
+gardeners and farmers to cultivate it; they will find a ready market.
+
+_How to eat them raw_.--Quarter them, take off the outer leaves and
+choke, and serve with oil, vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper.
+
+_How to cook_.--Clean them and take off the outer leaves, throw them
+into boiling water, with parsley, salt, and pepper (they are cooked when
+the leaves come off easily), then take from the fire and drain, taking
+care to put them upside down.
+
+_The same, fried_.--When cooked as above, cut the upper part of the
+leaves, and then cut them in eight pieces, take the choke off, dip each
+piece in a thin paste made of flour, sweet-oil, beaten egg, vinegar,
+salt, and pepper, and fry them with a little butter. Serve them with
+sprigs of fried parsley around.
+
+_The same, stewed_.--When cooked as directed above, cut them in four
+pieces, and trim off the upper part of the leaves, take off the choke,
+and lay them in a stewpan; cover them with broth and set on a moderate
+fire; add then one ounce of butter for six artichokes, one sprig of
+parsley, and two mushrooms cut in slices; boil ten minutes, take the
+parsley off, and serve the artichokes with the mushrooms around; pour
+the sauce on the whole.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Cook, and serve with a _vinaigrette_. The Jerusalem
+artichokes are dressed like potatoes.
+
+_Asparagus._--This is thought to be a native of Asia. The white
+asparagus sells dearer than the other kinds, but we cannot say that it
+is on account of its better quality, it is most likely for being more
+sightly when served. If it is kept for some time before boiling it,
+place the bunch in about half an inch deep of cold water, the top
+upward, and keep in a cool place. There are only four ways of preparing
+asparagus without changing or destroying the natural taste of the plant.
+The large ones, or what is called the first cut, is prepared in
+_vinaigrette_, _white sauce_, and _fried_; the small one, or second cut,
+is cooked _en petits pois_--like green peas. It is better and has more
+taste when boiled rather underdone, that is, taken from the water when
+still firm; if boiled till soft, it loses its taste and is not crisp.
+
+_To boil._--Cut off some of the white part, so as to have the whole of
+one length if possible; then scrape the white end a little, soak in cold
+water for a few minutes, and drain. Tie it in small bunches of half a
+dozen or a dozen, according to size, and drop them in boiling water and
+a little salt, at the first boil of the water. Boil till rather
+underdone, take off, drain and drop in cold water immediately. Drain
+again, and it is ready to serve.
+
+_En Petits Pois._--Cut small asparagus in pieces about half an inch
+long, and blanch them for three minutes. Take off and drain; then put
+them in a saucepan on the fire with two or three tablespoonfuls of
+broth, stir now and then for about two minutes, add a teaspoonful of
+flour; stir again, and as soon as mixed with the asparagus add also
+about one ounce of butter, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, stir, and,
+when the butter is melted, serve.
+
+_Fried._--Blanch the asparagus two minutes, drain it; dip each in batter
+and fry in hot fat. Take off with a skimmer when done; and turn into a
+colander, salt it, and serve hot.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Boil it as directed. When cold, serve with a
+_vinaigrette_. (This is also called _à l'huile_.)
+
+_With White Sauce._--While it is boiling, make a white sauce; drain the
+asparagus and serve both, sauce and vegetable, warm. The asparagus is
+not dropped in cold water.
+
+_With Cream Sauce._--It is prepared and served as with a white sauce.
+
+_In Omelet._--Boil the asparagus as directed, and when cool cut it in
+small pieces about half an inch long, and when the omelet is ready to be
+folded in two, a little while before taking from the fire, place the
+asparagus in the middle, then fold and serve the omelet as if there were
+nothing in it.
+
+_Green or String Beans_, _Dwarf or Snap Beans_, _French Haricots_, _Pole
+Beans_, _Kidney Beans_, _etc._--_To prepare them when green and cooked
+with the pods._--Remove the string or thread that is on both sides, by
+partly breaking one end of the pod and pulling lengthwise, repeat the
+same for the other side; cut them in pieces half an inch long, soak them
+in cold water, and throw them into boiling water with a little salt.
+Boil them till cooked, which you will know by pressing one between your
+fingers to see if tender; take them from the fire, throw them into cold
+water to cool, and drain them.
+
+_Au jus._--Cook a quart of beans. Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan
+and set it on the fire; when melted, put the beans in with a teaspoonful
+of chopped parsley; stir five minutes; then add a gill of broth, salt,
+and pepper; simmer twenty minutes, and, just on taking from the fire,
+mix in it two well-beaten yolks of eggs, with the juice of half a lemon,
+and serve.
+
+_Maître d'hôtel._--Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter, and set it on
+a good fire; when melted, put in it a quart of beans cooked in water,
+with a pinch of grated nutmeg, half a pint of milk, salt, pepper, and a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley; keep stirring continually, boil ten
+minutes, take from the fire, mix in it two beaten yolks of eggs, and
+serve.
+
+_The same, with Onions._--Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set
+it on the fire; when hot, put in it two onions cut in slices, and fry
+them. Then add salt, pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a saltspoonful of
+chopped parsley, and a quart of beans cooked in water; also half a pint
+of boiling water; boil ten minutes, stir with a wooden spoon, take from
+the fire, sprinkle in it a few drops of vinegar, and serve.
+
+_The same, in Salad._--Cook the beans in water, as directed above; then
+put a layer of them in a crockery vessel, the layer to be about one inch
+thick; then sprinkle on it salt and pepper; repeat the same process till
+all your beans are in; cover and leave thus three or four hours; then
+throw away the water, or drain if convenient; place the beans in a
+salad-dish, with the sweet-oil, vinegar, and parsley necessary; move
+like a salad, and serve cold.
+
+_Green, shelled, Lima, or other Beans._--Shell the beans, throw them in
+boiling water with a little salt, and when cooked drain them. Put two
+ounces of butter for a quart of beans in a saucepan, and when melted
+put the beans in with salt and pepper; toss gently now and then for
+three or four minutes, then add about a teaspoonful of vinegar, or the
+juice of half a lemon, and half a teaspoonful of parsley chopped. Mix
+and serve warm. They may also be prepared as string-beans, either _au
+jus_, in _maître d'hôtel_, or in _salad_.
+
+_Dry Beans, Lima, White or Colored._--Dry beans must be soaked in water
+for some time. Some require to be soaked twenty-four hours, others only
+five or six hours. Those that require to be soaked long are not from the
+last harvest, but have been kept for two or more years. If you are not
+sure that the beans (especially the white) are from this year's crop,
+soak them for twenty-four hours in cold water, and then drain them.
+
+_To boil._--Put the beans in a saucepan with cold water, and boil gently
+till tender. If the water boils away, fill up with cold water, but never
+put any salt to boil dry beans, it prevents them from cooking. As soon
+as boiled tender, drain them, and they are ready for use.
+
+_Au jus._--When boiled as above, set them on the fire in a stewpan with
+a few tablespoonfuls of gravy or broth, salt, and a little butter, stir
+for two or three minutes, then add a little chopped parsley, and serve
+warm.
+
+_Maître d'hôtel._--When boiled as above, drain and put them in a
+saucepan with about three ounces of butter for a quart of beans, stir
+now and then, and when the butter is melted, add salt, pepper, a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegar; just mix and
+serve.
+
+_With Salt Pork._--Boil a quart of beans as directed above, and drain
+them. Cut in dice about half a pound of bacon and put it in a saucepan
+on the fire; when about half fried add the beans, mix and stir for one
+minute, then put in a warm oven for about twenty minutes, stirring
+occasionally; when done, sprinkle on it some parsley chopped fine,
+pepper and salt to taste, if not salt enough. There are several ways of
+preparing "pork and beans," but the one we give above is the most
+general in New England. The pork must neither be too fat nor too lean.
+It may be done also with ham and fresh pork.
+
+_With Mutton._--Boil as directed about three pints of white beans and
+drain them. When the leg of mutton is about half roasted, put the beans
+in the dripping-pan, and stir occasionally till the meat is done, and
+serve them with it. It makes a very nourishing dish, but it would be
+rather heavy for persons having sedentary avocations. Two quarts of
+beans would not be too much for a good-sized leg of mutton. It may also
+be prepared with any other piece of mutton; shoulder, saddle, etc.
+
+_Boiled with Mutton or Pork._--Prepare a quart of beans as directed, and
+then boil them ten minutes and drain them. Cut in rather large dice
+about two pounds of breast or neck of mutton or the same of pork, and of
+the same pieces, and put meat and beans in a stewpan, cover well with
+cold water; season with a bunch of seasonings composed of five or six
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and two cloves, salt,
+pepper, a little nutmeg grated, a carrot cut in three or four pieces,
+two onions, and a piece of turnip. Boil gently till the whole is
+thoroughly cooked; remove the seasonings, and serve meat and beans
+together. This makes also a nourishing dish and not an expensive one.
+The nutritive qualities of beans are very well known, and very much
+exaggerated too. Even Professor Liebig once said that "four quarts of
+beans and two pounds of corned beef or pork boiled to rags, in fifty
+quarts of water, will furnish a good meal for forty men."
+
+We must say that we have not been able to try the experiment, but we
+should like very much to see what kind and how much work forty men would
+do, and for how long, with such a diet. There are many things that look
+or seem well, and even magnificent in theory, though entirely
+impracticable. It sounds well, especially to those who do not understand
+the meaning of it, to say that we feed mostly on gluten, albumen,
+gelatine, etc., and that we require so many ounces of carbon, oxygen,
+etc., in twenty-four hours. Every thing that we eat may be, with the
+exception of salt, turned into charcoal; but no one has yet been known
+to feed on it.
+
+_Colored Beans, stewed._--Soak, boil five minutes, and drain a quart of
+beans. Put in a stewpan half a pound of bacon and set it on the fire;
+five minutes after, put the beans in, with four small onions, salt, and
+pepper, boil gently till cooked, and drain. Put two ounces of butter in
+a stewpan on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of
+flour, same of chopped parsley, then the beans, without the bacon and
+onions; toss now and then for ten minutes, then add half a pint of
+claret wine, the same of the water in which they were cooked, boil
+gently twenty minutes; then put in it also the bacon and onions, boil
+five minutes longer, and serve the whole on the same dish.
+
+_Beets, stewed._--Clean and wash well, but do not skin them. Put in a
+crockery vessel a layer of rye straw, moisten it slightly, place the
+beets on it, cover the vessel, and place it in a slow oven for five or
+six hours; cool and skin them. When cooked, cut them in thin slices. Put
+butter in a stewpan, and when melted sprinkle in it a pinch of flour, a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, then the beets; simmer
+twenty minutes, add a few drops of vinegar, and serve.
+
+_Cabbages--to boil._--Take off the outer leaves, clean, cut in four
+pieces, free it from stump and stalk, and drop it in boiling water with
+a little salt and a piece of charcoal. Boil slowly till tender, and
+drain. Cabbage contains some sulphur, and evaporates an unpleasant odor
+while boiling, and especially while boiling fast. By putting a piece of
+charcoal in the pot, it does not smell as much.
+
+_With Bacon._--When boiled and drained, put the cabbage in a stewpan
+with bacon, sausage, and a piece of breast of mutton; cover with cold
+water, season with three or four sprigs of parsley, a carrot, a clove, a
+little nutmeg, salt and pepper; boil till the whole is well cooked,
+remove the seasonings and drain; dish the cabbage, put the meat on it,
+and serve warm.
+
+_With Milk, or à la Crème._--Boil and drain the cabbage as directed
+above. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, set it on a good fire,
+and when melted put the cabbage in with salt and pepper. Sprinkle on it
+a teaspoonful of flour, add half a pint of cream or good milk; keep
+stirring with a wooden spoon during the whole process; boil gently till
+the sauce is reduced, and serve warm.
+
+_Stewed._--Boil and drain two large heads of cabbage, and cut them very
+fine. Put about three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
+when melted put the cabbage in and stir for five minutes; then add salt,
+pepper, and a pinch of flour; wet with a pint of broth, boil till cooked
+and the sauce reduced, then serve warm.
+
+_A l'Allemande._--Blanch for ten minutes some white or green cabbage and
+drain it. Put six ounces of salt pork, cut in dice, in a saucepan on the
+fire, and when partly fried put two or three small heads of cabbage in,
+stir, and when done, add a little gravy, and serve warm.
+
+_With Apples._--Blanch for about ten minutes a head of cabbage and
+drain it. Put two or three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire,
+and put the cabbage in when the butter is melted with four or five
+apples peeled, quartered, and cored; also a little salt and a little
+sugar, about half a pint of water or broth, boil gently till done, and
+serve as warm as possible. Generally, cabbages are better when prepared
+at least one day in advance, and then warmed in a _bain-marie_ before
+serving; a little butter may be added while it is warming. Any kind of
+cabbage is prepared as directed in the above ways.
+
+_Red Cabbage in Salad._--Take a hard head of red cabbage, and when all
+the outer leaves are removed, see if it is clean, but do not wash it; if
+a cabbage is not clean, do not use it for salad (as you want a hard one,
+and a hard one is always clean when the outer leaves are taken off).
+Then cut it in four pieces, trim off the stump and coarse ends of the
+leaves; cut it as thin as possible, as in making sour-krout, put it in a
+crockery vessel, with salt, vinegar, and pepper sprinkled on, cover and
+leave thus from four to six hours; then throw away the water or vinegar,
+dress as another salad, with oil and vinegar, and serve.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Blanch the cabbage for about ten minutes and drain
+it; then put it in a saucepan with about an ounce of butter and stir for
+five minutes, when add a little salt, a little sugar, a gill of claret
+wine, and same of broth or water. Boil gently till done, and serve.
+
+_Stuffed._--Remove the outer leaves of either a green, white, or red
+cabbage, see that it be clean, then put it in a bowl, and pour boiling
+water on it. Leave it so till the leaves are soft and pliable, when take
+off and drain. Cut off the stump carefully, place the cabbage on the
+table, the top upward, then open it gently by spreading the leaves all
+around without breaking them; then, commencing with the centre leaves,
+put some sausage-meat between the leaves, finishing with the outer ones
+and raising them; that is, bringing the cabbage to its original shape as
+much as possible, and then tie it all around with twine. Put in a
+saucepan large enough to hold the cabbage easily, but not too large, a
+little salt pork, cut in small dice, rind of salt pork and trimmings of
+butcher's meat that you may have, but if none at all, put a little lean
+salt pork or bacon, and cut in dice also, half a carrot in slices, two
+onions in slices also, and then the cabbage on the whole. Half cover it
+with broth; water may be used instead of broth, but it makes a very
+inferior dish, while with broth it is unquestionably an excellent one
+for those who like cabbages. Simmer for two or three hours, according to
+the size of the cabbage. A piece of sausage may be placed on the cabbage
+also and cooked with it. Then dish the cabbage, remove the twine tying
+it; place the sausage around and also the salt pork if liked, strain the
+sauce on the whole, and serve warm. If the water or broth boils away
+while it is cooking, add more.
+
+_Sour-krout._--Soak in cold water for some time, changing the water
+three or four times; then put it in a stewpan with a pound of bacon, two
+ounces of sausages, and two ounces of lard to every quart of sour-krout,
+salt, and pepper; wet with broth, or with water, boil from five to six
+hours, and serve with the bacon and sausages on it. When cooked as
+above, but with water instead of broth, drain it well, put the bacon and
+sausages away in a warm place; then put the sour-krout in a stewpan with
+about one pint of white wine to a quart of sour-krout, set it on the
+fire and boil gently till the wine is nearly all absorbed or boiled
+away. Serve as above with the bacon and sausages on it. It is almost
+always prepared with wine in many parts of Germany.
+
+_Cardoons._--The white part only is good to eat. Clean well and scrape
+the sides; cut in pieces two inches and a half in length, and throw them
+in boiling water with a little salt; boil them till their sliminess
+comes off easily; then take from the fire, pour cold water in, and by
+means of a towel remove the sliminess; soak in cold water and drain
+them. Lay a few slices of bacon in a stewpan, place the cardoons on
+them, and again lay slices of bacon on; season with two onions, two
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove, salt, pepper,
+and the juice of half a lemon; cover with water and set on a good fire;
+boil till cooked; take from the fire and drain the cardoons only,
+throwing away the seasonings. Put the cardoons back in the stewpan, in
+which you have left the bacon; add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth,
+and two of Espagnole sauce; set on a slow fire, and simmer till the
+sauce is reduced to a proper thickness. Have at the same time in a pan
+on the fire a piece of ox-marrow, and when melted mix it with the sauce
+at the moment you take the cardoons from the fire, and serve hot either
+with or without the bacon.
+
+_Carrots--how to clean and prepare them._--Trim off all the small roots,
+wash them well, scrape them gently, taking care to scrape the skin only;
+then wash well, drain, and cut them either in slices a quarter of an
+inch thick, in fillets or strips, or with a vegetable spoon, according
+to fancy.
+
+_To boil._--When prepared, put them in a saucepan with a little salt,
+more cold water than is necessary to cover them, set on the fire, boil
+gently till tender, and drain. It is impossible to tell how long it
+takes, as it depends how young and tender they are.
+
+_In Béchamel._--Clean, cut, and boil about a quart of carrots as
+directed and drain them. Mix well together in a saucepan, on the table,
+about two ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, add about one
+pint of milk, set on the fire, stir slowly till it comes to a boil, when
+turn the carrots in, stir for about one minute, add also a little salt,
+same of sugar, two yolks of eggs; stir and mix well, give one boil, and
+serve warm.
+
+_A la Crème, or with Cream._--Proceed as for a _Béchamel_ in every
+particular except that you use cream instead of milk.
+
+_In Poulette._--Proceed as in _Béchamel_ with the exception that you use
+broth instead of milk, and add a little parsley, chopped fine, just
+before serving.
+
+_Fines Herbes._--Clean, cut, and boil as directed, about a quart of
+carrots. Set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter in it, and
+when melted fry in it a piece of onion chopped fine. When the onion is
+fried add a pint of broth or water; boil about five minutes, put the
+carrots in with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, give one boil, take
+from the fire, add a few drops of lemon-juice, and serve as warm as
+possible, with salt to taste.
+
+_Au jus._--Proceed as for _fines herbes_, except that you do not use
+onions, and put half a pint of broth or gravy.
+
+_Glazed._--Clean, cut with a vegetable spoon, and boil as directed,
+about a quart of carrots, and drain them. Put three ounces of butter in
+a frying-pan and set it on the fire. As soon as the butter is melted
+turn the carrots in, toss gently for five or six minutes, then add a
+little over a gill of rich gravy, sugar to taste, toss again now and
+then till the gravy is half boiled away, and use. Glazed carrots are
+seldom served alone, but most generally used as garnishing around a
+piece of meat.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean, and cut carrots in slices, and then blanch them for
+about five minutes, and drain them. Set a stewpan on the fire with about
+two ounces of butter in it; as soon as melted put the carrots in with
+salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar, half a pint of broth; boil gently till
+cooked, take from the fire, add and mix with the carrots a little
+chopped parsley, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sugar._--Clean and slice about a quart of carrots, and blanch them
+for five minutes, and then drain them. Put two ounces of butter in a
+stewpan, and set it on a good fire, and when melted lay the carrots in
+with salt, pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and about half a pint of
+broth; sprinkle in it, while stirring with a wooden spoon, about a
+teaspoonful of flour, and boil gently till cooked. Take from the fire,
+mix a good tablespoonful of sugar with two yolks of eggs, and those
+again with the rest, and serve.
+
+_Cauliflowers and Broccoli--how to prepare and cook them in
+water._--Clean and wash them well, throw into boiling water with a
+little salt and a little flour, boil till cooked, and drain them.
+
+_How to serve with Cheese._--Put them on a crockery dish when prepared;
+pour on a white sauce, in which you have mixed a little grated cheese;
+then dust the whole with fine bread-crumbs; after which you take a soft
+brush or a feather, which you dip in lukewarm butter, and put a thin
+coat of it all over the cauliflowers; then place the dish in a quick
+oven for ten minutes, and serve as they are, _i. e._, in the dish in
+which they have been cooked. This is also called _au gratin_.
+
+_In Béchamel._--Boil the cauliflowers till done to your taste, drain
+immediately and place them on the dish, the top upward. While it is
+boiling make a _Béchamel_ sauce and turn it over the cauliflowers as
+soon as dished, and serve as warm as possible. Cauliflower, like
+asparagus, has a better taste when rather underdone; it is more crisp.
+
+_Au Beurre Noir (with Brown Butter)._--When boiled, drained, and dished,
+turn a brown butter over them, and serve warm.
+
+_With a Cream-Sauce._--Clean, prepare, boil, and drain the cauliflowers
+as directed above, then dish them also with the top upward. While they
+are boiling, make a cream-sauce and turn it over the cauliflowers as
+soon as they are dished, and serve warm. As they must be served warm, if
+the sauce is ready before the cauliflowers are cooked, keep it in a
+_bain-marie_; if the cauliflowers are cooked before the sauce is ready,
+keep them in a warm place.
+
+_With a White Sauce._--Proceed as with a cream-sauce in every
+particular, turning a white instead of a cream-sauce over them; serve
+warm.
+
+_Fried._--Clean, prepare, and boil them for about five minutes, that is,
+till they are about half cooked; then dip them in batter for frying
+vegetables, and fry them in hot fat. Take them off with a skimmer, turn
+them into a colander, sprinkle salt all over, and serve as hot as
+possible. They are excellent fried, but they must not be allowed to
+cool.
+
+_With a Tomato-Sauce._--Commence by making a tomato-sauce, as it
+requires longer than preparing the cauliflowers. When the sauce is
+nearly made, boil the cauliflower as directed, dish it, and then turn
+the sauce over it, and serve warm.
+
+_Au jus, or stewed._--Prepare, boil the cauliflowers till half done, and
+drain them. Place them carefully in a stewpan, the top upward, and set
+on the fire with a little fat. The fire must be rather slow. Stir gently
+and very carefully in order not to break them, and, about five minutes
+after they are on the fire, add half a gill of broth for a
+middling-sized cauliflower, salt, and pepper; simmer till done, stirring
+now and then during the process; dish them, turn the sauce all over, and
+serve warm.
+
+_In Salad._--When boiled and drained, leave them in the colander till
+perfectly cold, then put them in the salad-dish with salt, pepper,
+vinegar, and oil, move carefully in order not to break it, and serve. A
+salad of cauliflowers is not served as a salad of greens, but as an
+_entremet_, like other vegetables, and as if prepared in any other way.
+It is an excellent dish for breakfast.
+
+_Celery--stewed._--Cut off the green part or top of about half a dozen
+heads of celery; cleanse and trim them, but leave them whole. Set a
+saucepan of cold water and a little salt on the fire, and at the first
+boil drop the heads of celery in, boil till tender and drain. Put the
+celery back in the pan with about half a pint of broth; boil gently
+about five minutes, when add two or three tablespoonfuls of good
+meat-gravy, a teaspoonful of _meunière_, salt to taste, give one boil,
+and serve warm.
+
+_Fried._--Cut the celery in pieces about two inches long, wash, drain,
+and wipe dry. Dip them in batter for frying vegetables, drop in hot fat,
+and turn them into a colander when fried; sprinkle salt over, and serve
+hot. Soup or turnip-rooted celery, after being cleaned and properly
+scraped, is prepared like table celery as above, either stewed or fried.
+
+_Chiccory._--Chiccory, or succory, or endive, is generally prepared as a
+salad, if it be that with the broad leaves, or the curled endive.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean, wash, and drain it. Blanch it for about one minute,
+and drain again. Then put it in a stewpan with a little broth, and
+simmer till cooked; then add a little gravy, salt and pepper to taste,
+and serve. It makes a good _entremet_. The wild chiccory is prepared in
+the same way.
+
+_With Milk._--Remove the outer leaves and see that it is perfectly
+clean, cut in two or four, wash well in several waters, and throw into
+boiling water with a little salt; boil half an hour, take it out, throw
+into cold water, leave two minutes, and drain; press on it the drainer
+so as to extract all the water from it, after which chop it fine. Put
+about two ounces of butter in a stewpan; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+teaspoonful of flour, also salt and pepper; then put the endive in, say
+three or four heads, stir with a wooden spoon for ten minutes, after
+which time you beat two eggs with milk, and put them in the stewpan;
+keep stirring fifteen minutes longer, and serve.
+
+_Corn--sweet._--The simplest and best way is to boil it, and then eat it
+with butter, salt, and pepper. When boiled with any meat-soup, or with
+_pot-au-feu_, it is delicious to eat, and gives a good taste to the
+broth; it is also eaten with butter, salt, and pepper, as above.
+
+_Stewed._--Shell it and then drop it in boiling water and a little salt,
+boil till nearly done; then drain and put it back on the fire with a
+little broth; boil gently for about ten minutes, add a little gravy,
+salt and pepper to taste, and serve warm.
+
+_In Succotash._--This popular Indian dish, is very simply made by
+boiling corn and green Lima beans together, with salt and pepper. The
+two can be prepared together as stewed corn, but it makes a very
+inferior dish.
+
+_Cucumbers._--Peel them, split them in four, take the seeds out, cut in
+pieces about one inch long, throw them into boiling water, with a little
+salt; boil till cooked, drain, and put them on a towel so as to dry
+them well; then put butter in a frying-pan, and set it on a good fire;
+when hot, put in it some chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, two minutes
+after put the cucumbers in it, fry a few minutes, tossing them now and
+then, and serve.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Cook in boiling water, and dry them as above; then
+put them in a stewpan with a little butter kneaded with flour, add salt,
+pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg; moisten with broth, simmer to
+reduce the sauce; take from the fire, mix the yolks of two eggs in the
+sauce; add to it a few drops of vinegar, and serve them.
+
+_Stuffed._--Soak a piece of bread in cold water and then squeeze the
+water out of it, the size to be according to how many cucumbers are to
+be stuffed, or how large they are. Split large cucumbers in two,
+lengthwise, remove the seeds and some of the fleshy parts inside, by
+means of a small iron spoon. Put a little butter in a saucepan on the
+fire, and when melted fry in it a piece of chopped onion. When the onion
+is fried, put in the pan what you have removed from the inside of the
+cucumbers, and which you have chopped a little, stir for about five
+minutes, and then add the soaked bread, stir and mix well with the rest;
+add also salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg and a little gravy; stir
+again for about one minute, take from the fire; fill the cucumbers, that
+is, each half with the mixture; place them in a pan, the mixture upward;
+dust with bread-crumbs, put a little butter on the top of each, and
+bake. Before serving, a little gravy may be sprinkled all over; serve
+warm.
+
+_In hors-d'oeuvre._--Peel the cucumbers, cut them in slices slantwise,
+and salt them for two or three hours. Drain them, and then season with
+oil, vinegar, pepper, and parsley chopped fine.
+
+Pickled cucumbers are served whole with small onions, also pickled, as a
+_hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+_Dandelion._--Dandelion is a very healthy greens in the spring, either
+cooked or raw. Clean and wash them well several times, as it nearly
+always contains fine sand between the leaves; leave them in cold water
+about two hours, and drain them; throw them into boiling water and salt;
+boil twenty minutes if young, and thirty minutes if full grown; then put
+them in a colander, press on them so as to extract all the water, after
+which chop them fine; put about two ounces of butter in a stewpan, for
+two quarts, and set it on a quick fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+teaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper, then put the dandelion in, stir
+for ten minutes, after which wet it with broth; keep stirring for about
+fifteen minutes longer, and serve.
+
+_Egg-Plant--broiled._--Split the egg-plant in two lengthwise, peel it
+and remove the seed. Put it in a crockery vessel and sprinkle salt on
+it; leave it thus nearly an hour, then take it off, dip it in egg beaten
+with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, then boil it; serve with a
+_maître d'hôtel_ sauce.
+
+_Fried._--Peel and cut in slices, lay the slices in a vessel, sprinkling
+salt over every layer, and leave thus half an hour and drain. Dip the
+slices in batter for frying vegetables, drop them in hot fat, and turn
+them into a colander when fried; sprinkle salt all over, and serve.
+
+_Sauté._--Put the slices with salt half an hour in a vessel as directed
+in the above. Drain them, and then fry them on both sides with a little
+butter in a frying-pan. Serve warm, with salt and pepper to taste.
+
+_Stuffed._--Proceed as for stuffed cucumbers in every particular.
+
+_Hominy._--Hominy is prepared in different ways, some make it in cakes,
+others like mush. The following is, however, the general way of
+preparing it: boil it for about three hours with water or milk, also
+butter, salt, and pepper; then mix with it some well-beaten eggs, fry or
+broil, or even cook it in an oven, and serve for breakfast.
+
+_Leeks._--Clean, wash, and drain; throw them in boiling water with a
+little salt, boil fifteen minutes, and drain; press on them in the
+drainer, so as to extract all the water, then chop them fine. Put two
+ounces of butter in a stewpan; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful
+of flour, salt, and pepper, then add the leeks. Stir with a wooden spoon
+for ten minutes; after that beat two eggs with milk, and put them in a
+stewpan; keep stirring fifteen minutes longer, and serve.
+
+_Lentils._--This excellent vegetable, much superior to beans or peas, is
+not generally known. Most of what we have here comes from Germany; a
+little comes from France and Switzerland. Many persons think them much
+dearer than beans or peas, not knowing that they swell three or four
+times their size when soaked in water before cooking them. They are
+prepared like dry beans in every way. A _purée_ of lentils is excellent
+with almost every kind of meat, and it also makes a good potage. It has
+all the nutritive qualities of the bean.
+
+_Lettuce._--Cos lettuce, cabbage lettuce, butter lettuce, curled
+Silesia, white or green lettuce, etc. Besides being served as salad, all
+the above, when properly dressed, make an excellent _entremet_.
+
+_To prepare._--Take off the outer leaves, that is, all those that are
+too green or too hard, then clean and wash well, but without cutting it
+off, or without detaching the leaves. To stew lettuce, select hard
+heads, so that they can be cleansed without detaching the leaves. When
+cleaned, drop the heads in boiling water and a little salt, boil about
+five or ten minutes, according to how tender the lettuce is, and drain
+dry.
+
+_Stewed._--When cleaned and prepared, sprinkle on the top of each, salt,
+pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; then tie each head with a string.
+Place in a stewpan two or three slices of bacon, put the heads of
+lettuce in, season with two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf,
+and a clove, also salt and pepper; cover with water, and simmer about
+two hours in an oven; then take them from the pan, drain, pressing on
+them to extract all the water, and put them on a dish, the top upward.
+Have butter in a stewpan, and on a good fire; when melted, sprinkle in
+it a teaspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon; subdue the
+fire, add a little milk, and stir and simmer ten minutes longer; take
+from the fire, mix in the beaten yolks of two eggs, pour it on the
+lettuce, which you have kept warm, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--When prepared, chop it fine. Put in a stewpan, for four
+heads of lettuce, three ounces of butter, and set it on the fire; when
+melted, put the lettuce in with a little chopped chervil, stir now and
+then till cooked; then sprinkle in it a pinch of flour, wet with broth,
+boil ten minutes longer, keeping it stirred, and serve. (For a salad of
+lettuce, see Salad.)
+
+_Stuffed._--Proceed as for a stuffed cabbage.
+
+_Mushrooms._--Preserved mushrooms are used for sauces only. The first
+thing to consider very attentively in mushrooms is, not to eat any that
+you do not know to be good to eat. There are so many kinds of good and
+bad ones, that it is necessary to be very careful about even the edible
+ones, or the ones known as such when young; it is better and safer
+never to use them when old; they are considered old when the comb
+underneath is black before picking, while when young it is of a pink
+color.
+
+_How to clean and prepare them._--Cut off the lower part of the stem;
+skin them with a steel knife, commencing at the edge and finishing at
+the top; cut in pieces, put them in cold water, to which you have added
+a few drops of vinegar; leave them in it two hours, moving them
+occasionally; then wash well in two or three waters, and drain.
+
+When cleaned and prepared thus, they are ready to be used in sauces, or
+to cook.
+
+_Broiled._--If you have large mushrooms, clean and prepare as above,
+except that you do not cut them; but when drained, put them upside down
+on a greased gridiron, and on a moderate fire; place a little butter
+around the stem upon the comb, and when done place them on a dish which
+you have warmed in advance, and in the same position they had on the
+gridiron; put again around the stem some butter kneaded with a little
+chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, and serve. They must be served warm.
+
+As an ornament, you may make, with common white note-paper, as many
+little square boxes as you have mushrooms to broil; grease them with
+butter, put the mushrooms in, set them on the gridiron, and on a
+moderate fire, and serve them in the boxes when done.
+
+_The same, stewed._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, and drained,
+throw a quart of them in boiling water, to which you have added a few
+drops of vinegar; boil five minutes, take them out, put them in cold
+water to cool, drain and dry them in a towel. Put two ounces of butter
+in a stewpan and set it on a good fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+pinch of flour, add also a sprig of parsley, two small onions, a little
+piece of carrot, a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper, cover with broth, and
+boil till the onions are cooked; then take from the pan onions, parsley,
+and bay-leaf, and put the mushrooms in instead; boil slowly about twenty
+minutes, take from the fire, add to the sauce the yolks of two eggs well
+beaten with a few drops of vinegar, and serve warm.
+
+_Mushroom Catsup._--Clean and wash them well, stems and all; cut them in
+two or four pieces; then place the pieces in a crockery vessel,
+sprinkling salt on every layer of mushrooms, and leave thus twenty-four
+hours. Take them out and press them well, so as to take all the juice
+out, which you bottle at once, and cork. Put the mushrooms back in the
+vessel, and twenty-four hours after press them again; and again put the
+juice in bottles, and the mushrooms in the vessel, and repeat this
+process again after another twenty-four hours. Then mix well together
+the juice of the three pressings; add to it pepper, allspice, one clove
+(or more, according to the quantity) broken in pieces; boil the whole,
+skim off the scum as long as you see any on the surface, and strain.
+Bottle when cool; put in each bottle two cloves and a pepper-corn, cork
+air-tight, put in a cool and dry place, and it will keep for years.
+
+_Dried._--Dried mushrooms are imported from Italy, they come cheaper
+than the preserved ones in cans, and are as good for brown sauces. Soak
+them in water over night; drain them, and they are ready for use.
+
+_Onions à la Crème.--(With Cream.)_--Only small white onions are
+prepared _à la crème_. Have water and a little salt on the fire, and
+drop two dozen small white onions into it at the first boil. When
+cooked, drain, and wipe them dry carefully, in order not to bruise
+them. Set a saucepan on the fire with about two ounces of butter in it,
+and when melted put the onions in, stirring gently for two or three
+minutes, then turn about a gill of cream in, little by little, stirring
+the while, and as soon as the whole is in take from the fire, salt to
+taste, and serve hot.
+
+_Glazed._--Peel a dozen of middling-sized onions and put them in a
+saucepan with four ounces of butter, and set them on a slow fire; stir
+occasionally till they are about three-quarters done, when add about two
+ounces of powdered sugar, stir now and then and finish the cooking. When
+done and well browned all around, add one or two tablespoonfuls of good
+meat-gravy, keep a few minutes on a rather brisk fire in order to reduce
+the sauce, but keep stirring and use. Onions prepared that way are
+excellent, and generally used to decorate meat.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean a quart of small onions, throw them in boiling water,
+add two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a clove, a bay-leaf, a little
+piece of nutmeg, a clove of garlic, salt, and pepper; boil twenty
+minutes, drain the onions only, and throw away the seasonings. Put two
+ounces of butter in a stewpan on a good fire, and when melted sprinkle
+in it a teaspoonful of flour; then add the onions, cover with half broth
+and half white wine, boil gently till well cooked and the sauce reduced,
+serve warm. It is a very wholesome dish.
+
+_Parsnips.--Sautées._--Scrape, wash, drain, and put about two quarts of
+parsnips in a saucepan with cold water and a little salt, set on the
+fire and boil till done, then drain. Cut the parsnips in slices, put two
+ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and when melted put the sliced turnips
+in, toss gently till they are of a fine golden color, then add salt and
+pepper to taste, turn over a dish, sprinkle chopped parsley all over,
+and serve warm.
+
+_Stewed._--Scrape, clean, wash, boil, and drain as above directed, about
+two quarts of parsnips. Put them immediately into a stewpan with salt,
+pepper, and broth enough to about half cover them, boil gently for
+fifteen minutes, and serve the whole as it is. They may also be prepared
+in _poulette_, the same as turnips.
+
+_Peas with Bacon._--Put in a stewpan on the fire four ounces of bacon
+cut in dice (for one quart of peas), and toss and fry it for about five
+minutes, then add the peas after having blanched them from five to ten
+minutes, according to how tender they are; stir for two minutes and add
+half a pint of broth or water, also a bunch of seasonings composed of
+two or three sprigs of parsley, half a one of thyme, and a piece of
+bay-leaf; stir again and mix, and then add also two or three small
+onions, salt, and pepper; boil half an hour, remove the seasonings, and
+serve peas and salt pork. A small sausage may be added for those who
+like the taste of it.
+
+_Plain boiled._--Put a saucepan on the fire with water and salt in it,
+and at the first boil drop two quarts of peas in it; boil gently till
+done, and then drain. As soon as they are in the colander, just toss
+them a little, turn them over a dish, and put four ounces of butter on
+the top, salt, and pepper, then place the dish in the oven with the door
+open, that is, just to keep them warm and allow the butter to melt, stir
+for one or two minutes, and serve warm.
+
+_With Lettuce._--Blanch a quart of peas for about five minutes, and
+drain them. Blanch a head of lettuce for one minute. Put peas and
+lettuce in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, stir gently on the fire
+for about one minute, and then add a little broth or water, two or three
+sprigs of parsley, salt, and pepper; boil slowly till done, and serve
+warm. The parsley may be served, or removed just before serving,
+according to taste. The lettuce is always served with the peas.
+
+_Au jus._--Boil the peas as directed for _plain boiled_, then put them
+back on the fire with a little butter, stir for one minute, add about
+three tablespoonfuls of gravy to a quart of peas, salt and pepper, give
+one boil, and serve.
+
+_With Ham._--Blanch two quarts of peas and drain them. Put them in a
+saucepan with half a pound of ham, cut in dice, half cover them with
+water, and boil gently till done. If the water boils away, add a little
+more; serve warm.
+
+Canned peas are prepared in the same way as above.
+
+_A l'Anglaise._--If the peas are fresh, blanch them; if they are
+preserved, drain them only. Put the peas in a saucepan with about one
+ounce of butter for a pint, set on the fire, stir gently till thoroughly
+warm, add chopped parsley and a yolk of egg, and serve.
+
+_Au Sucre (with Sugar)._--Set the peas on the fire, the same as above,
+add about one ounce of sugar, stir also till warm; take from the fire,
+stir a yolk of egg in, and serve.
+
+_Dry Peas and Split Peas._--Dry and split peas are prepared and served
+in the same and every way like dry _beans_, with the exception that they
+require to be soaked only for a few hours before cooking them.
+
+_Potatoes.--To select._--As a general rule, the smaller the eye the
+better the potatoes. By cutting off a piece from the larger end you
+ascertain if they are sound; they must be white, reddish, bluish, etc.,
+according to the species. If spotted, they are not sound, and therefore
+very inferior. There are several kinds, and all of them are good when
+sound or coming from a proper soil. Use the kind you prefer, or those
+that are better fit for the way they are intended to be served. To mash
+or to make a _purée_, etc., every kind is good. To serve whole or in
+dice, or in pieces like carpels of oranges, those called _Mercers_ and
+the like, are preferable, because they do not bruise so easily.
+
+_To boil._--Being naturally watery, potatoes should never be cooked by
+boiling except when wanted very white, as for _croquettes_. When boiled
+whole, put them of an even size as much as possible, in order to cook
+them evenly. They are better, more mealy, when steamed or baked, but
+those who have no steamer must, of course, boil them. Cover them with
+cold water, set on the fire and boil till done, then pour off all the
+water, put the pan back on a slow fire for five minutes and well
+covered; then use the potatoes.
+
+_To steam._--Place them above a kettle of boiling water, in a kind of
+drainer made for that purpose, and adapted to the kettle. The drainer
+must be covered tight. They cook as fast as by boiling, the degree of
+heat being the same. When steamed the skin is very easily removed.
+
+_To prepare._--If they are to be boiled, or steamed, or baked, it is
+only necessary to wash them. If wanted peeled, as for frying, etc., then
+commence by cutting off the germs or eyes; if young and tender, take the
+skin off with a scrubbing-brush and drop immediately in cold water to
+keep them white; if old, scrape the skin off with a knife, for the part
+immediately under the skin contains more nutriment than the middle, and
+drop in cold water also. If wanted cut, either in dice, or like carpels
+of oranges, or any other way, cut them above a bowl of cold water, so
+that they drop into it, for if kept exposed to the air they turn reddish
+and lose their nutritive qualities.
+
+_A l'Allemande._--Steam, peel, and slice the potatoes. Cut some bread in
+thin slices, and fry bread and potatoes with a little butter and turn
+the whole in a bowl, dust well with sugar, pour a little milk all over
+and bake for about fifteen minutes; serve warm.
+
+_A l'Anglaise._--Steam or boil about a quart of potatoes and then peel
+and slice them. Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on the fire,
+and put the potatoes in when melted, toss them for about ten minutes,
+add salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and serve hot.
+
+_A la barigoule._--Peel some potatoes and cook them whole in broth; when
+done take them off carefully, so as not to break or bruise them, and
+drain. Have some oil in a frying-pan and on a quick fire, and when hot
+lay the potatoes in; move gently to fry them all around, and then dish
+them, sprinkling salt, pepper, and vinegar, all over; serve warm.
+
+_Béchamel._--Steam or boil and peel some potatoes, then slice them and
+place on a dish; have a _Béchamel_ sauce ready, turn it over the
+potatoes, and serve warm.
+
+_Broiled._--Steam, peel and slice the potatoes. Lay the slices on a
+gridiron, and place it over a rather slow fire; have melted butter, and
+spread some over the slices of potatoes with a brush; as soon as the
+under part is broiled, turn each slice over and spread butter over the
+other side. When done, dish, salt, and serve them hot. A little butter
+may be added when dished, according to taste.
+
+_A la Parisienne._--Chop an onion fine and partly fry it with butter,
+then put in it some potatoes cut in dice, add a little water or broth,
+salt, and pepper; boil gently till done, take from the fire, add chopped
+parsley, and serve.
+
+_Fried._--To be fried, the potatoes are cut either with a vegetable
+spoon, in fillets, in slices, with a scalloped knife, or with an
+ordinary one, or cut in pieces like carpels of oranges, or even in dice.
+When cut, drain and wipe them dry. This must be done quickly, so as not
+to allow the potatoes to turn reddish. Have a coarse towel ready, then
+turn the potatoes into a colander, and immediately turn them in the
+towel, shake them a little, and quickly drop them in hot fat. (_See_
+Frying.) When done, turn them into a colander, sprinkle salt on them,
+and serve hot. Bear in mind that fried potatoes must be eaten as hot as
+possible. Fry only one size at a time, as it takes three times as long
+to fry them when cut in pieces as when sliced or cut in fillets.
+
+_To fry them light, or swelled_.--When fried, turn into the colander,
+and have the fat over a brisk fire; leave the potatoes in the colander
+only about half a minute, then put them back in the very hot fat, stir
+for about one minute and put them again in the colander, salt them, and
+serve hot. If the fat is very hot, when dropped into it for the second
+time they will certainly swell; there is no other way known to do it. It
+is as easily done as it is simple. Potatoes cut in fillets and fried are
+sometimes called _à la Parisienne_; when cut in slices or with a
+vegetable spoon, they are called _à la française_.
+
+Potatoes cut with a vegetable spoon and fried, make a good as well as a
+sightly decoration for a dish of meat or of fish. They may be fried in
+oil also, but it is more expensive than in fat. They may be fried in
+butter also, but it is still more expensive than oil, and is not better
+than fat; no matter what kind of fat is used, be it lard, beef suet, or
+skimmings of sauces and gravy, it cannot be tasted.
+
+_Hollandaise._--Steam or boil the potatoes, and then peel and mash
+them. Season them with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, and
+pepper, add also two tablespoonfuls of gravy to a quart of potatoes,
+then make small balls about the size of a walnut, round or of an
+olive-shape, dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in
+hot fat. Serve hot.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as for the above one in every particular, except
+that you use milk or cream instead of broth, and sugar instead of salt
+and pepper.
+
+_Lyonnaise._--Potatoes _Lyonnaise_ are prepared according to taste, that
+is, as much onion as liked is used, either in slices or chopped. If you
+have not any cold potatoes, steam or boil some, let them cool, and peel
+and slice them. For about a quart of potatoes, put two ounces of butter
+in a frying-pan on the fire, and when melted put as much onion as you
+please, either sliced or chopped, into the pan, and fry it till about
+half done, when add the potatoes and again two ounces of butter; salt,
+pepper, and stir and toss gently till the potatoes are all fried of a
+fine, light-brown color. It may require more butter, as no vegetable
+absorbs more than potatoes. It makes an excellent dish for those who do
+not object to the taste of the onion (the onion can be tasted, not being
+boiled or kept long enough on the fire to evaporate). Serve warm. Oil
+may be used instead of butter.
+
+_Maître d'Hôtel._--Steam or boil about a quart of potatoes, and then
+peel and cut them in slices. Put one ounce and a half of butter in a
+saucepan on the fire, and when melted add a small tablespoonful of
+flour; stir, and when turning yellow add also about a quart of milk,
+salt to taste, give one boil and take from the fire. Then add the
+potatoes, put back on a slow fire, stir for ten minutes, mix in the
+whole a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, also a yolk or two of eggs,
+and serve warm.
+
+_Another Maître d'Hôtel._--Take two quarts of potatoes, prepare and cook
+them by steam, peel carefully, and cut them in thick slices; place them
+on a dish and keep warm. Put four ounces of butter in a stewpan and set
+it on a slow fire; add, when melted, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+the juice of half a lemon, salt, pepper, and a pinch of allspice, stir
+ten minutes; afterward, put for five minutes on a quick fire, keep
+stirring, then pour on the potatoes, and serve.
+
+_Mashed._--Peel and quarter about three pints of potatoes as directed;
+put them in a saucepan with more water than is necessary to cover them,
+and a little salt; set on the fire and boil gently till done, drain, put
+them back in the saucepan, mash them well and mix them with two ounces
+of butter, two yolks of eggs, salt, pepper, and milk enough to make them
+of a proper thickness. Set on the fire for two or three minutes,
+stirring the while, and serve warm. When on the dish, smooth them with
+the back of a knife or scallop them, according to fancy.
+
+_Mashed and baked._--Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on
+the fire; when hot, add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, and a
+little salt; five minutes after, put in it a quart of potatoes,
+prepared, cooked, peeled, and mashed, as directed; then pour on the
+whole, little by little, stirring continually with a wooden spoon, a
+pint of good milk; and when the whole is well mixed, and becoming rather
+thick, take from the fire, place on the dish, then set in a brisk oven
+for five minutes, and serve.
+
+_Polanaise._--Wash well about two quarts of potatoes, put them in a
+saucepan and cover with cold water, season with salt, half a dozen whole
+peppers, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and two or three onions in
+slices; boil gently till done, and drain. Peel the potatoes, cut them
+in two, dish and turn a _caper_ sauce over them. Serve warm.
+
+_Provençale._--Peel and quarter about three pints of potatoes as
+directed. Put in a saucepan about a gill of oil with the potatoes, salt,
+pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, six sprigs of parsley, two cloves of garlic,
+and half the rind of a lemon; the three latter spices well chopped; set
+on a good fire, stir now and then till cooked, dish the whole, sprinkle
+the juice of one or two lemons on, and serve warm.
+
+_Another way._--Put in a stewpan three tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, two cloves of garlic chopped very fine,
+a pinch of grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, salt, and pepper;
+set on a good fire, and when hot put in it a quart of potatoes prepared
+and cooked by steam, and cut in thick slices; subdue the fire, simmer
+about ten minutes, and serve.
+
+_Sautées._--Take a quart of young and tender potatoes, peel them with a
+brush, and cut in slices. Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on a
+quick fire; when hot, put the potatoes in, and fry them till of a golden
+color; place them on a dish without any butter, sprinkle chopped parsley
+and salt on, and serve. They may also be served without parsley,
+according to taste.
+
+_Soufflées._--Steam a quart of potatoes, then peel and mash them in a
+saucepan and mix an ounce of butter with them; set on the fire, pour
+into it, little by little, stirring the while, about half a pint of
+milk, stir a little longer after the milk is in and until they are
+turning rather thick; dish the potatoes, smooth or scallop them with the
+back of a knife, and put them in a quick oven till of a proper color,
+and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Steam three pints of potatoes and peel and mash them in
+a saucepan, then mix with them four ounces of butter, salt to taste,
+half a pint of milk, and eight yolks of eggs; set on the fire for two
+minutes, stirring the while, and take off. Beat six whites of eggs to a
+stiff froth, and mix them gently with the rest. Place the mixture on a
+dish, smooth with the back of a knife or scallop them, according to
+fancy, and put in a quick oven. As soon as the top gets a little dry,
+which will be in two or three minutes after being in the oven, take them
+off and quickly spread some melted butter all over, by means of a brush,
+and put back in the oven for two or three minutes longer, when take off
+again, spread butter over the same as the first time, etc. Repeat the
+same process two or three times, and serve warm.
+
+_Stuffed._--Steam two or three potatoes and peel and mash them in a
+bowl, then chop fine a small green onion or two shallots with two ounces
+of fat salt pork and six or eight sprigs of parsley; mix the whole with
+the potatoes; add also and mix with the rest about two ounces of butter,
+and salt and pepper to taste. If the potatoes are not warm enough to
+melt the butter while mixing, it should be melted first. Clean and wash
+well six potatoes of an even size and split them in two lengthwise; then
+with a small iron spoon remove the middle part of each half, so as to
+leave only a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch. You have then a
+kind of shell, which you fill with the prepared mixture above, filling
+more than full, so that the top is convex, and which you smooth with the
+back of a knife. When the twelve halves are thus prepared, butter the
+bottom of a bakepan, lay the potatoes in with the mixture upward, and
+put in a warm oven. Take from the oven when about half done, and spread
+some melted butter all over by means of a brush; put back in the oven,
+finish the baking, and serve warm.
+
+_In Cakes._--Prepare and cook by steam a quart and a half of potatoes,
+peel and mash them; mix with them the yolks of five eggs, half a
+lemon-rind grated, and four ounces of fine white sugar. Put four ounces
+of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire; when melted, put the
+mixture in, stirring with a wooden spoon continually; as soon as it is
+in the stewpan, add the whites of the five eggs, well beaten; leave on
+the fire only the time necessary to mix the whole well together, and
+take off; when nearly cold, add, if handy, and while stirring, a few
+drops of orange-flower water; it gives a very good flavor; then put the
+whole in a tin mould greased a little with butter; place in a quick oven
+for about thirty-five minutes, and serve.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Peel, quarter, and boil about a quart of potatoes as
+directed. Mash them in a saucepan and mix them with four yolks of eggs,
+two ounces of butter, salt, and about half a gill of milk; set on the
+fire, stir for about two minutes, take off, spread on a dish and leave
+thus for two or three hours, and even over night when for breakfast.
+When left over night, they may be rather too dry to work them; then mix
+with a few drops of milk. No matter how long they have been left on the
+dish, it is necessary to mix them, that is, to mix the top, which is the
+driest part, with the rest. Dust the paste-board slightly with
+bread-crumbs, put the potatoes on it, in parts of about a tablespoonful
+each; then, with the hands and a knife, shape them according to fancy,
+either round, flat, or oval, etc. When shaped round they look like a
+piece of sausage about two inches and a half long. If wished flat, when
+shaped round, just flatten them a little with the blade of a knife. Then
+dip each part in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat.
+(_See_ Frying.) Take them off the fat when done, turn them into a
+colander, and immediately dish, and serve them as warm as possible.
+Potato _croquettes_ are sometimes called potato-balls. When the
+_croquettes_ are shaped flat, they are also called "_à la duchesse_."
+
+_Another Duchesse._--When the potatoes are ready to be spread on the
+dish to cool, put them in the pastry-bag and squeeze them out of it like
+lady's fingers, bake, and serve warm. It makes a sightly dish.
+
+_In Matelote._--Prepare and cook a quart and a half of potatoes, and
+peel and cut them in thick slices. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter
+the size of an egg, and set it on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in it
+a teaspoonful of flour, also the same of chopped parsley, salt, and
+pepper, then the potatoes, wet with half a pint of claret wine, same of
+broth; boil gently till the sauce is reduced, and serve.
+
+_With Butter, or English Fashion._--Put water on the fire with
+considerable salt in it; at the first boil, drop a quart of washed
+potatoes in and boil till done, when take off, peel, and put them whole
+in a saucepan, with butter, salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg; set on a
+rather slow fire, stirring gently now and then till they have absorbed
+all the butter. Serve warm. They absorb a great deal of butter.
+
+_With Bacon or Salt Pork._--Peel and quarter about a quart of potatoes.
+Set a saucepan on the fire with about four ounces of fat salt pork cut
+in dice in it. When fried put the potatoes in. Season with a bunch of
+seasonings composed of two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, and a
+bay-leaf; salt and pepper to taste, and about half a pint of broth or
+water. Boil gently till cooked, remove the bunch of seasonings; skim off
+the fat if any, and serve warm. It is served at breakfast, as well as
+_entremets_ for dinner.
+
+_With Cream or Milk._--Peel and mash a quart of potatoes, when prepared
+and cooked. Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on a good
+fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour, same of
+chopped parsley, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and salt; stir with a wooden
+spoon five minutes; then add the potatoes, and half a pint of milk or
+cream; keep stirring ten minutes longer, take from the fire, sprinkle in
+them half a tablespoonful of sugar, and serve as warm as possible.
+
+_With White Sauce._--Clean, wash, and throw a quart of potatoes in
+boiling water, with a sprig of thyme, two onions, a bay-leaf, two sprigs
+of sweet basil, two cloves, salt, and pepper; when cooked, take the
+potatoes out carefully, peel and cut them in two, place them on a warm
+dish, pour on them a white sauce, and serve warm.
+
+_Sweet Potatoes._--They are prepared in the same and every way like the
+others above.
+
+_Pumpkins and Squashes._--Peel, take out the seed, cut in pieces, and
+throw them in boiling water with a little salt; drain when cooked and
+mash through a colander, put butter in a stewpan on the fire, when
+melted, add chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the pumpkin or squash,
+and simmer ten minutes; after which pour in it half a pint of milk,
+little by little, stirring the while; leave ten minutes longer on the
+fire, and take off; mix well in it two or three yolks of eggs, and serve
+warm. The quantity of milk, butter, eggs, etc., to be according to the
+quantity of squash.
+
+_Purslain._--Clean, wash well, and drop it in boiling water with a
+little salt, boil till cooked, take off and drain. Put butter in a
+stewpan on the fire, and when melted lay the purslain in, stir a little
+and sprinkle on it, little by little, a pinch of flour; season with
+salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, stir and simmer about ten minutes,
+take from the fire, mix in it one or two beaten eggs, and serve.
+Purslain is much more used in Europe than here; there it is cultivated
+as other vegetables, but it does not grow as well as here.
+
+_Rhubarb._--Scrape and cut it in pieces about one inch long, and then
+blanch it for two minutes. Put it in a saucepan with two or three
+tablespoonfuls of cold water and set it on a rather sharp fire, toss or
+stir now and then till done, when sweeten to taste, dish, let cool, and
+serve. Rhubarb is very wholesome, and ought to be partaken of at least
+every other day. When prepared as above, it may be used to make pies.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Radishes._--The cuts below are turnip-rooted red radishes, cut with a
+small knife, put in cold water for about an hour, and served with
+butter, as a _hors-d'oeuvre_. Remove the outer leaves, leaving only four
+or five of the small centre ones, cut off the root close to the radish,
+and wash clean in cold water. Take the radish with the left hand holding
+it by the centre leaves, cut the skin from the top downward to near the
+leaves, in several parts, but without detaching it, and as seen in the
+cuts above; do the same carefully with the body of the radish, and it
+will look more like a rose than like a radish. After having prepared two
+or three, it will be comparatively easy. The centre leaves must be
+eaten, as well as the body of the radish; they contain a substance that
+helps the digestion of the radish itself.
+
+_Salsify, or Oyster-Plant._--Scrape them, and throw one by one as they
+are scraped into cold water, with a few drops of vinegar; when they are
+all scraped, move them a little, take out of the water, and throw them
+in boiling water with a little salt, boil till tender, and drain; place
+them warm on a warm dish, and serve with brown butter, a _maître
+d'hôtel_, or white sauce.
+
+_Fried._--When boiled as above, drain them. Then dip each in batter for
+frying vegetables, drop them in hot fat, and take them off with a
+skimmer when done, turn into a colander, salt them, and serve hot.
+
+_In Béchamel._--While the salsify is boiling as directed above, make a
+_Béchamel_ sauce; drain the salsify when done, and turn it into the
+_Béchamel_ sauce as soon as the latter is finished; keep on the fire for
+about two minutes, stirring the while, and serve warm. They are prepared
+and served in the same way with the following sauces: _cream_,
+_poulette_, and _white_.
+
+_Skirret._--Prepare, cook, and serve in every way like parsnips.
+
+_Sorrel._--Sorrel is found in a wild state nearly everywhere; that is,
+where green plants vegetate. It is an excellent vegetable, good to eat
+all the year round, but especially in the spring and summer. It is very
+healthful, containing the pure oxalic acid as it is formed by Nature.
+Sorrel is the greatest neutralizer of acrid substances. A few leaves
+chewed, take away from the teeth that disagreeable feeling left after
+having eaten a tart apple or other tart, unripe fruit. Cultivated in a
+rich soil, the leaves grow nearly as large as those of the rhubarb. It
+is cut to the ground several times during the spring and summer.
+
+_To boil._--Take a peck of sorrel, separate the stalk from the eatable
+part, by taking hold of it with one hand and tearing off the rest with
+the other, so that only the stalk and fibres attached to it will remain
+after the tearing, and which you throw away. Wash it well, drain and set
+it on the fire in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir
+occasionally, and when nearly done, take off, mash through a colander,
+and it is ready for use.
+
+_Au jus._--Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, set
+it on the fire, and when melted, put the sorrel in after being boiled
+and mashed as above, stir half a minute, add a tablespoonful of flour;
+stir another half minute, add also half a gill of gravy, same of broth,
+salt, stir two minutes, and serve. Hard-boiled eggs, split in four
+pieces, lengthwise, may be placed around the dish, if the sorrel is
+served as an _entremets_.
+
+_To preserve for Winter Use._--When boiled and mashed as above, put it
+in stone or glass jars; when cold, turn melted butter or lard over it;
+cover as tightly as possible with paper, and when perfectly cold, put
+away in a dark, dry, and rather cool place, and it will keep very well
+during the whole winter. The best time to preserve it is at the
+beginning of November, just before the cold weather sets in.
+
+_Purée of._--When prepared as for _au jus_, but without gravy, it is a
+_purée_.
+
+_Spinach--to boil._--When cleaned and washed, throw it in boiling water
+at the first boiling, with a pinch of salt, and boil till done. It will
+take from one to ten minutes to boil, according to how tender it is.
+Turn into a colander; press on it to force the water out, put on the
+paste-board and chop it fine.
+
+_Au jus._--When chopped, set the spinach on the fire in a saucepan with
+a little broth, two or three tablespoonfuls for a small measure; stir,
+add as much gravy, an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of flour, salt,
+stir two minutes, and serve.
+
+_Au jus in Winter._--When prepared as above, put it away in a bowl in a
+cool place, for one day; then set it back on the fire in a pan, add a
+little butter and a little broth, stir and just warm it, when put away
+again; repeat this for four or five days in succession, and you
+certainly will have an excellent dish. Some hard-boiled eggs cut in four
+pieces, lengthwise, may be placed around the spinach when dished, also
+some _croutons_. Spinach is generally served on a flat dish, and
+scalloped all around with a knife.
+
+_With Sugar._--Proceed as for spinach _au jus_ in every particular,
+except that you put very little salt, and one or two teaspoonfuls of
+sugar, according to taste. Lady-fingers or pieces of sponge-cake may be
+placed all around the dish.
+
+_A la Crème._--Boil and chop the spinach as directed. Set it on the fire
+in a saucepan, stir till perfectly dry, but not burnt; add two ounces of
+butter, and stir again for five or six minutes; then add about two
+tablespoonfuls of cream to a small measure of spinach; stir again five
+minutes, take from the fire; add again one ounce of butter, stir two
+minutes, and serve with hard-boiled eggs or _croutons_, or both. Milk
+may be used instead of cream when the latter cannot be had, but it is
+inferior in taste.
+
+_With Anchovy._--Proceed as for the above, using a tablespoonful of
+essence of anchovy instead of cream.
+
+_Spinach au Beurre, or à l'anglaise._--Boil and chop the spinach as
+directed. Put it in a saucepan with butter; set on the fire, stir till
+the butter is melted and mixed with the spinach, salt to taste, and
+serve.
+
+_Sprouts._--Boil, prepare, and serve sprouts the same as spinach.
+
+_Tomatoes_ are, like sorrel and rhubarb, very healthful.
+
+_To blanch._--After they are washed, throw boiling water over them, and
+then take off and remove the skin.
+
+_Stewed, to serve with Meat or Fish._--When blanched as above, put the
+tomatoes in a stewpan with butter, salt, and pepper, set on the fire and
+simmer for about forty-five minutes; serve warm all around the fish or
+piece of meat. Tomatoes may be eaten raw, with or without salt; in no
+matter what way they are partaken of, they are not yet known to have
+indisposed anybody. Although great quantities are consumed in this and
+other countries, still many more ought to be used; they are so easily
+preserved, that every family ought to have a large provision of them for
+the winter and spring consumption.
+
+_Stuffed._--Soak in cold water one-fourth of a ten-cent loaf of bread,
+etc.; when perfectly soaked, squeeze it with the hands. Take six
+tomatoes, as much of an even size as possible, cut the top off; that is,
+the side opposite the stem, and with a small spoon take out the inside
+and put it in a bowl, and then turn into a colander to let the liquid
+part run off. Put about an ounce of butter in a saucepan, and when
+melted add a small onion chopped; stir, and when nearly fried add also
+the part of the tomatoes in the colander also chopped; stir half a
+minute; put in the soaked bread, stir and mix; then salt, pepper, and
+grated nutmeg; give one boil more, and take from the fire. Fill the
+tomatoes with this mixture, dust with bread-crumbs, put a piece of
+butter the size of a hazel-nut on each, and bake. Just before serving,
+wet with a little tomato-sauce, broth, or gravy.
+
+_Turnips--to boil._--Clean, scrape, and wash well, then put them in a
+saucepan, either whole or in slices, or cut with a fruit-corer or with a
+vegetable spoon, add cold water enough to boil them in, a little salt,
+set on the fire and boil gently till tender; then take off, drain, drop
+in cold water, drain again, and use.
+
+_In Béchamel._--While the turnips are boiling as described above, make a
+_Béchamel_ sauce and turn the turnips in as soon as made; boil gently
+about two minutes, stirring the while, and serve warm. Do exactly the
+same with a cream or white sauce.
+
+_Au jus._--Boil and drain them as directed above, then put them in a
+saucepan with a little gravy, set on the fire, stir now and then for
+about ten minutes, add a teaspoonful of _meunière_, stir again for two
+or three minutes, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sugar._--Cut with a fruit-corer or with a vegetable spoon about a
+pint of turnips, and boil them till under done, then drain. Put the
+turnips in a saucepan with two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, set on
+a good fire, toss occasionally for about ten minutes, then add two or
+three tablespoonfuls of sugar, toss again now and then for ten minutes
+longer, and serve. It may take a little longer or less time than
+described above, according to the state of the turnips; if young and
+very tender, keep on the fire five instead of ten minutes, and if old,
+it may take fifteen minutes.
+
+_Glazed._--Cut the turnips with a vegetable spoon, boil them for five
+minutes, and drain them. Put half a gill of broth in a saucepan with
+about one pint of turnips and set on a good fire; toss and stir now and
+then till done, and till the broth is all boiled away. If it boils away
+before the turnips are cooked, add more and finish the cooking. When
+done, sprinkle about three ounces of sugar on them, stir for about one
+minute, dish the turnips, dredge powdered sugar all over, put in the
+oven two minutes, and serve.
+
+_Water-cress._--This contains much sulphur, and is the greatest
+anti-scorbutic known. Besides being eaten with salt or in salad, it may
+also be stewed in the following way: Take only the top and the leaves
+around the stalk; clean and wash it well; throw it in boiling water with
+a little salt, and when cooked drain it well, so as to extract all the
+water from it. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan;
+when melted, put the cress in, sprinkle on it a tablespoonful of flour
+(for three quarts); stir continually with a spoon, boil ten minutes,
+then add salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and half a pint of broth;
+boil ten minutes longer, and serve either alone, or with hard-boiled
+eggs on it; cut the eggs in two or four pieces.
+
+_Salads._--Salads are seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, and
+sometimes with mustard also. The best oil is that made of olives, but
+much is sold for olive-oil which contains more lard than oil. It is
+impossible to tell which is pure by the color. Pure olive-oil is of a
+pale-yellow-greenish color. It is very easy to tell the pure oil by
+tasting, but of course it is necessary to know the real taste of good
+oil.
+
+The best vinegar is wine-vinegar, with _tarragon_ in it (_vinaigre à
+l'estragon_), but it is expensive. Next to it is cider-vinegar. Beer
+makes good vinegar, but inferior to that made with cider. Pyrolignic
+vinegar is very unhealthy. No one can be too careful in selecting
+vinegar. The superiority of the French mustard comes from the compounds
+used, and not from the way it is made, as thought by many. In the French
+mustard, besides _vinaigre à l'estragon_, there is white wine, and more
+sweet-oil than in any other kind. A good deal of mustard is made here,
+and often sold as French, after being carefully labelled.
+
+Salad is made with every species of lettuce; chicory, cultivated and
+wild; cabbages, red and white; cauliflowers, celery, dandelion,
+corn-salad, purslain, water-cress, etc. If it were possible to clean the
+salad by merely wiping the leaves with a towel, it would be better than
+washing; but it must be washed if there is any earth or sand on it. The
+salad should be made by an experienced person, who can judge at a glance
+what quantity of salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar is necessary. The
+quantities cannot be given, as that depends on the quantity of salad.
+Chopped parsley and chives are served on a small plate at the same time
+with the salad, as many persons like those spices.
+
+_Celery._--When the celery is washed and cleaned, wipe it dry, cut the
+white or eatable part (the top or green part is used for soup) in pieces
+about one inch long, put them in the salad-dish with salt, vinegar, and
+mustard, stir a little, leave thus about one hour, then add pepper and
+oil, move again, and serve.
+
+_Lettuce._--Lettuce, and especially Cos or Roman lettuce, must be
+handled very gingerly, in order not to wilt the leaves while cleaning
+and washing. When the head of the lettuce, especially of Roman lettuce,
+is hard, it is not necessary to wash it at all, as when the outer leaves
+are taken off, the rest is perfectly clean. Never use the knife, but
+break the leaves; put them in the salad-dish; spread all over the dish,
+according to taste and fancy, the blossoms and petals (not the leaves)
+of any or all of the following plants: burnet, wild chiccory, rose (any
+kind), pink, sage, lady's-slipper, marsh-mallow, nasturtium, periwinkle.
+Thus decorated, the salad is put on the table at the setting of it, and
+made when the time for eating it comes. Of these decorative flowers, the
+handiest are the rose and pink, as at every season of the year they are
+easily obtained. In spring and summer most of the others can also be had
+easily.
+
+The salad, thus decorated, is placed on the table at the same time with
+the soup. It is made while the roast-piece is carved or eaten; the
+petals of flowers or blossoms are not removed, and, of course, are eaten
+with the lettuce. The salad is seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, and
+oil. The proportions are two tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar for
+a salad for three, four, or five persons. It is generally moved round in
+the dish, so as to impregnate every leaf with the seasoning. It is
+served immediately after the roast-piece.
+
+Cream may be used instead of oil.
+
+_Turnip-rooted Celery (called also Soup Celery._)--Clean, wash well, and
+scrape it carefully; cut it in thin slices, place it in the salad-dish,
+sprinkle salt, pepper, vinegar, and mustard on it, mix well the whole
+together, and leave thus from four to six hours. Then throw away the
+vinegar, or most of it; add very little salt and vinegar, oil, and move
+well. Serve as above, that is, immediately after the roast-piece of the
+dinner.
+
+A salad with cabbage, chiccory, corn-salad, or any kind of greens, after
+being properly cleaned, washed, wiped dry, and cut in pieces if
+necessary, is made and served exactly like a salad of lettuce described
+above.
+
+_Nasturtium._--This is said to be a native of Mexico; it makes a good
+salad in summer-time. Make and serve like a salad of lettuce.
+
+_Chervil and Sorrel._--In Italy, Spain, and the south of France, they
+make salad with these two vegetables, half of each, prepared and served
+like lettuce.
+
+Some persons like a thick sauce with salad; it is made thus: Put a
+hard-boiled yolk of egg in a bowl, mash it, and then mix with it salt
+and a tablespoonful of vinegar; when these three are thoroughly mixed,
+add pepper and oil (about two tablespoonfuls of oil), little by little,
+stirring and mixing well the while; turn the mixture over the salad, and
+move as directed above. The mixture may be prepared in the salad-dish,
+and the salad put in afterward.
+
+Mustard should never be used with lettuce; it is too strong to be eaten
+with such tender vegetables.
+
+_Of Salsify._--In the spring, when the top of the salsify has grown for
+one or two weeks only, and immediately after the frost is out of the
+ground, cut it off, split it in four, wash it well, drain it dry, and
+prepare as a salad of lettuce. The root is prepared as described for
+salsify, and is never made in salad.
+
+_Of Cucumbers._--Peel and slice them, then put them in a vessel, salt
+every layer, and leave thus in a cool place about one hour, drain them
+dry and then dress them with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper; slices of
+onion may be added, if liked.
+
+_Of Beans._--Boil the beans in water with a little salt, drain them dry,
+and then dress them with parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, oil, and
+vinegar.
+
+_Of Beets._--Boil the beets in water only till done, and when cool, peel
+and slice them, and prepare them with pepper, salt, vinegar, and oil.
+The beets may be baked.
+
+_Of Eggs._--Slice hard-boiled eggs, and dress them with chopped parsley,
+salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil.
+
+_Of Lentils._--Proceed as for beans in every particular.
+
+_Of Onions._--Bake the onions, then peel and slice them, and dress them
+with mustard, salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil.
+
+_Of Tomatoes._--Wash, wipe dry, and slice the tomatoes; slice also
+onions and mix with them, the quantity to be according to taste; then
+season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar.
+
+_Of Walnuts._--The European walnut only can be used, and as soon as good
+to eat; that is, before the outer shell dries and opens. Break the nuts
+in two, take out the kernels with a pointed knife, and place them in a
+salad-dish, with some juice of grapes not yet ripe; add salt and pepper,
+leave thus two or three hours, moving now and then, and serve. The
+edible part will be found very good eaten that way. To persons who have
+never eaten any, it may appear a strange dish, but let them try it.
+
+_Of Potatoes._--A potato-salad is the one that requires the most
+seasonings, especially oil and vinegar. They are better served warm than
+cold, although many prefer them in the latter state. When steamed,
+peeled, and sliced, put them in the salad-dish, with salt, pepper,
+vinegar, oil, and parsley, to taste. Mix the whole gently and well, and
+serve. If served very warm, butter may be used instead of oil.
+
+_Another._--Add to the above a few anchovies, or slices of pickled
+cucumbers, or capers, or pickled beets.
+
+_Another._--Add to the first some slices of truffles, previously soaked
+in Madeira wine for ten hours, and also a little of the wine.
+
+_Another._--Put a hard-boiled yolk of egg in the salad-dish, with two
+tablespoonfuls of oil, and mix well so as to make a paste of them; then
+add two anchovies, a piece of tunny the size of a nutmeg, and half a
+dozen sprigs of chervil, the whole chopped fine; mix again with the
+rest; add also a chopped pickled cucumber, mustard to taste, vinegar,
+and then the slices of potatoes (warm or cold), slices of truffles
+previously soaked in Madeira wine, a little of the wine also, salt, and
+pepper; stir and mix again well, and serve.
+
+_Apricots, Oranges, Peaches, Pears, Strawberries, Raspberries,
+Blackberries, Currants, and like Berries, in Salad._--Dust the bottom of
+a dish with white sugar, put a layer of slices of apricots, oranges,
+peaches, or pears, or a layer of the others entire, and dust again;
+repeat the same till the whole is in, then add over the whole a pinch of
+grated nutmeg, with French brandy or rum to suit your taste, and serve
+as a dessert.
+
+_Cocoa-nut._--Peel it carefully and soak it in brandy for twenty-four
+hours. A little sugar may be added; serve as a dessert.
+
+_Salad Macédoine._--This salad ought to be called "compound salad," as
+it is made of a little of every thing that can be served in salad, i. e.,
+fish, meat, green and dry vegetables, &c. When the whole is mixed,
+you add chopped parsley, sweet-oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper; you shake
+it till your arms are sore, and you have a salad _Macédoine_. Every one
+should try it; serve as an _entremets_.
+
+_Salmon and Turbot._--Cut in slices, place them in a salad-dish, with
+hard-boiled eggs cut in two, or with some lettuce, and serve as a
+_hors-d'oeuvre_, with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar.
+
+_Of Pineapple._--Proceed as for that of apricots, etc., in every
+particular.
+
+_Of Anchovy._--Clean and bone the anchovies, and then place them in the
+middle of a dish; chop fine some hard-boiled yolks of eggs and put a
+string of it around the anchovies; do the same with the whites, and then
+put a string of chopped parsley around the whites; season with oil and
+very little vinegar. Serve as a _hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+_Pickles and Preserves._--To pickle the fruit, it must be pickled before
+commencing to ripen, and be sound; the same for vegetables. When the
+fruit or vegetable is clean, and cut in pieces, if necessary, such as
+cabbage, have water on the fire, and drop it in at the first boil. If
+the fruit or vegetable is desired white, add to the water lemon or
+unripe grape juice. It is necessary to be very careful in blanching,
+for, if too much blanched or cooked, it will be soft and tasteless; if
+not enough, it will ferment. As a general rule, it is cooked as soon as
+it floats, but it can be ascertained by running a skewer or a small
+knife through it. By putting some fresh spinach-leaves or fresh
+grape-vine-leaves on the top of the fruit or vegetable, it will keep it
+more green than without. When blanched, take from the fire and drain.
+Drop it immediately in cold water, and drain again. When dry, put the
+fruit or vegetable in jars, cover it with boiling vinegar; season with
+peppers, pepper-corns, cloves, and tarragon, also some rock-salt. When
+perfectly cold, seal the jars air-tight, and keep in a dark, cool, and
+dry closet. Every kind of fruit or vegetables can be pickled in the same
+way; the only difference is in the time of blanching or cooking, which
+is according to the nature of the fruit: _apples_, _string-beans_,
+_beets_, _cabbages_, _cauliflowers_, _cherries_, _cucumbers_, _lemons_,
+_melons_, _mushrooms_, _onions_, _peaches_, _pears_, _plums_,
+_pumpkins_, _quinces_, _radishes_, _walnuts_, etc., may also be
+preserved in salt and water, and in the following way: When cooked as
+above, put them in jars and cover them with very salt water. Seal when
+cool, and then put the jars in a boiler full of cold water, with straw
+or rags to prevent breaking them; set on the fire, boil from twenty to
+thirty minutes, take from the fire, let cool; then take the jars from
+the water and put away as the above.
+
+_Peas_ and _mushrooms_ are almost always preserved in water and salt.
+
+_Asparagus_ is also preserved, but it is so difficult to succeed, that
+even manufacturers of preserves have given it up.
+
+_Tomatoes._--Wash them and then bruise them in a boiler; set on the
+fire, boil half an hour, and strain, to secure all the juice. Put the
+juice on the fire, boil till reduced about one-half, let cool, put in
+jars, seal them, put them in a boiler of cold water, with straw or rags
+to prevent breakage; set the boiler on the fire, boil twenty minutes,
+take off, let cool. When perfectly cold, take the jars off, place in a
+cool, dark cellar, and we warrant that they keep for years. No salt or
+seasonings of any kind are used to preserve them. When you wish to use
+them, season to taste.
+
+_Tomato Catsup._--To make catsup with the above sauce, you have only to
+add to it, when in jars, peppers, pimento, cloves, etc.; but it is
+really not necessary, being too strong for this climate.
+
+_Another way._--Take good and well-ripened tomatoes, clean and wash them
+well, put them in a stewpan and set it on a moderate fire for a while;
+take from the fire, throw away the water coming from them, and then
+strain them into a vessel. Put what there is in the vessel back on the
+fire, and in the same stewpan, and let it reduce about one-half; take
+from the fire, pour in a crockery pot, and leave thus twenty-four hours;
+then put in bottles, cork well, and place them in a cold and dry place.
+
+_Cucumbers_.--The small green ones are the best. Clean them well in cold
+water with a brush, removing the prickles. Put cold water in a vessel
+with rock-salt in it, and shake it to dissolve the salt; soak the
+cucumbers in it for about three days. Take them out and immediately put
+them in pots or jars with small onions, a few cloves of garlic,
+pepper-corns, rock-salt, cloves, and a bunch of seasonings composed of
+bay-leaves, tarragon, and burnet; cover them with boiling vinegar (turn
+the vinegar on them as soon as it boils), cover the pots or jars
+air-tight when perfectly cold. Look at the cucumbers every two or three
+days for the first three weeks, and after that only once in a while.
+According to the quality of the vinegar or of the cucumber itself, the
+whole may turn white after a while; in that case throw away vinegar and
+spices, put new spices in, the same spices as above, except the onions,
+which you keep with the cucumbers; cover again with boiling vinegar, and
+cover when cold as before. If they have not been kept too long in that
+state before changing the vinegar, they will be just as good as if they
+had not turned white.
+
+
+
+
+  EGGS, MACARONI, AND RICE.
+
+
+Eggs are fit to eat as soon as laid, and the sooner they are used the
+better. You ascertain if they are fresh with an oonoscope, or by holding
+them before a light and looking through. There are several ways to
+preserve eggs, but to do which they must be fresh; as soon as perfectly
+cold after being laid, they may be preserved. Dissolve gum in water to
+the consistency of thin mucilage, and with a brush give a coat of it to
+the eggs; lay them in a box of charcoal dust and keep them in a dry,
+dark, and cool place. When wanted, they are soaked in cold water for a
+few minutes, and washed. They are also preserved in hydrate of lime.
+When boiled hard, let them cool and place them in a dry, cool, and dark
+place; they will keep for weeks. If wanted warm after that, put them in
+cold water, set on the fire, and take off when the water is warm.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Cut in strips or fillets four mushrooms, one onion,
+one clove of garlic, and fry them with two ounces of butter, then add a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir for about one minute, add also half a pint
+of broth, same of white wine, boil gently till reduced about one-half,
+when put in the pan eight or ten hard-boiled eggs cut in dice, or cut
+the whites only in dice and put in the yolk whole, boil one minute and
+serve. It makes an excellent dish for breakfast.
+
+_With Cheese and Parsley._--Put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan
+on the fire, and when melted fry in it a tablespoonful of parsley,
+chopped fine; then add a pinch of nutmeg, salt, pepper, about four
+ounces of pineapple or Gruyère cheese, grated, and a gill of white wine;
+stir till the cheese is melted, when you add eight or ten eggs, one
+after another, stirring the whole time and mixing them with the cheese;
+serve when done. More cheese may be used, according to taste.
+
+_In Fricassée._--Put about half a pound of stale bread with one pint of
+milk in a saucepan on the fire and boil for two or three minutes, then
+mash well so as to mix the two together, put back on the fire, stir
+continually till it makes a rather thin paste, then take off, mix with
+it six or eight eggs, grated cheese to taste, salt and pepper, put back
+on the fire, stir, and serve when cooked. Lemon-juice may be sprinkled
+on just before serving.
+
+_A la Lyonnaise._--Chop fine two white onions and fry them with two
+ounces of butter, then add salt, a pinch of nutmeg, half a pint of
+broth; boil gently and stir now and then till it turns rather thick,
+when you add also eight whites of eggs, chopped; give one boil, and
+serve. Place the eight yolks, whole, all around, and between and
+alternately a small cake _feuilleté_, and serve warm.
+
+_A la Béchamel._--Slice the eggs or cut them in four pieces lengthwise,
+put them in _Béchamel_ sauce, set on a slow fire for two minutes, and
+serve warm.
+
+_Fines Herbes._--Mix well together in a saucepan, and cold, two ounces
+of butter with a tablespoonful of flour; set on the fire, stir, and when
+melted thoroughly, add a teaspoonful of parsley and one of chives,
+chopped fine, salt, pepper, and about a gill of white wine; stir, and
+boil gently for about five minutes, and turn over hard-boiled eggs in a
+dish; serve warm. The eggs are served whole, shelled, but not cut.
+
+_Piquante-Sauce._--Dish hard-boiled eggs as for _fines herbes_, and turn
+over them a _piquante sauce_; serve warm. They may be served in the same
+way with any other sauce.
+
+_Stuffed, or à l'Aurore._--Cut six hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise;
+take the yolks off the whites; chop them fine with six or eight sprigs
+of parsley, put both eggs and parsley in a bowl; add salt, pepper, a
+little nutmeg grated, a piece of the soft part of bread soaked in milk
+and squeezed, three ounces of butter, mix the whole well. Then with the
+mixture fill the whites, that is, the place where the yolks were; fill a
+little more than full, so that all the mixture will go into and upon the
+twelve halves. Lay in a saucepan a _purée_ of spinach or of sorrel, or
+of any other vegetable, according to taste; lay the halves of eggs on
+it, the mixture upward; put for ten minutes in the oven, and serve warm.
+
+_In Boxes._--Fold note-paper so as to make a kind of square box without
+a cover; put half an ounce of butter in it with a pinch of chopped
+parsley; lay it on a gridiron and on a slow fire, break an egg in it,
+and when nearly done add salt and bread-crumbs, to taste; serve warm
+when done.
+
+_With Cheese._--Prepare as the above; add grated cheese at the same time
+you add salt and bread-crumbs; finish the cooking, and serve warm.
+
+_Au Gratin._--Chop fine six or eight sprigs of parsley, a shallot if
+handy, or a small onion, half an ounce of the soft part of bread, an
+anchovy, and then mix the whole well with two ounces of butter; mix
+again with two yolks of eggs, place the mixture in a tin dish, place on
+a slow fire, and when getting rather dry break half a dozen eggs over
+it, dust with bread-crumbs, season with salt and pepper, and when nearly
+done spread two yolks of eggs beaten, with a teaspoonful of water over
+the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_With Ham._--Prepare as scrambled eggs with the exception that you put
+in the pan, at the same time you put in the eggs, four ounces of boiled
+ham cut in dice. Serve the same.
+
+_With Milk, Water, or Cream._--These three names are wrongly applied to
+eggs in many cook-books; they are creams, and not eggs.
+
+_Ham and Eggs._--There are several ways of preparing this good dish; the
+ham may be raw or boiled; in slices or in dice; mixed with the eggs, or
+merely served under. Fry the ham slightly, dish it and then turn fried
+eggs over it; or fry both at the same time, the eggs being whole or
+scrambled, according to taste.
+
+_With Asparagus._--Cut in pieces, about a quarter of an inch long, a
+gill of the tender part of asparagus, throw it in boiling water with a
+little salt; boil as directed, and drain. Beat eight eggs just enough to
+mix the yolks with the whites; put them in a stewpan, season with a
+pinch of grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper; add also a tablespoonful of
+warm water, set on a slow fire, stir till they are becoming thick; then
+add four ounces of butter, stir five minutes longer; add the gill of
+asparagus; simmer about five minutes longer, and serve.
+
+_Boiled._--(_See_ Eggs in the Shell.)--Put the eggs in boiling water
+with a little salt, as near as possible at the first boiling; leave from
+five to ten minutes; take out and put them immediately in cold water;
+then shell them without breaking them, and use.
+
+_With Brown Butter._--Break gently in a plate or dish, and without
+breaking the yolks, eight eggs; sprinkle salt and pepper on them. Put
+two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and on a good fire; when turning
+brown subdue the fire. Put also, and at the same time, the same quantity
+of butter in another frying-pan, and on a good fire, and when hot, place
+the eggs in without breaking the yolks; then spread over the eggs the
+brown butter you have in the other; take from the fire when you see the
+whites becoming hard; put them on a dish, pour on them a tablespoonful
+of vinegar which you have warmed in the pan after having used the brown
+butter, and serve.
+
+_Fried._--Put half a pound of lard in a frying-pan, and on a good fire;
+when hot, break gently, one by one (being careful not to break the
+yolk), the quantity of eggs you can put in the pan without allowing them
+to adhere together; turn them upside down once with a spoon or skimmer;
+take from the pan with a skimmer as soon as the white part becomes hard,
+and serve with fried parsley around.
+
+_Scrambled, or Mashed._--Beat six eggs just enough to mix the whites and
+yolks together; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and set on the
+fire; when melted, take from the fire, add salt, pepper, and a pinch of
+grated nutmeg, then the eggs, also a tablespoonful of broth; put back on
+a very slow fire, stir continually till cooked, and serve warm.
+
+_Sur le Plat._--Butter the bottom of a crockery or tin dish with two
+ounces of butter; break into the dish and over the butter, gently and
+without breaking the yolks, six eggs; sprinkle salt, pepper, and grated
+nutmeg all over, put the dish on a slow fire, or on warm cinders, and
+when the white is hard, serve. They must be served in the dish in which
+they are cooked.
+
+_In the Shell._--Bear in mind that some eggs cook quicker than others.
+Put eggs in boiling water for two minutes, if liked soft or underdone;
+and three minutes, if liked more done. They are generally served
+enveloped in a napkin.
+
+_In Matelote._--Put a bottle of claret wine in a stewpan and set it on a
+good fire; add to it two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a clove of
+garlic, a middling-sized onion, a clove, a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper;
+boil fifteen minutes; then take all the seasonings out and have your
+wine boiling gently; break one egg in by letting it fall gently in order
+to have it entire, and then take it out immediately with a skimmer, and
+place it on a dish; do the same with eight eggs; keep them in a warm
+(but not hot) place. After which put in the wine, without taking it from
+the fire, four ounces of butter kneaded with a tablespoonful of flour;
+boil till reduced to a proper thickness, pour it on the eggs, and serve.
+
+_With Onions._--Cut in dice three middling-sized onions and put them in
+a saucepan with four ounces of butter; set it on a moderate fire and
+stir now and then till the onions are turning yellow, then sprinkle on
+them a teaspoonful of flour, salt, and pepper; add a pint of warm water
+and boil gently till rather thick, but not too much so. Put into the
+saucepan half a dozen hard-boiled eggs cut in four pieces each,
+lengthwise, boil gently two or three minutes longer, and serve warm.
+
+_With Green Peas._--Proceed as for eggs with asparagus, except that you
+boil a gill of peas instead of asparagus; prepare and serve in the same
+way.
+
+_With Cauliflowers._--Blanch the cauliflowers and proceed as for the
+above. Eggs are prepared as above, with celery, lettuce, etc.
+
+_A la Tripe._--Proceed exactly the same as for eggs with onions, except
+that you use milk or broth instead of water.
+
+_A la Neige, or Floating Island._--Beat four (or more) whites of eggs to
+a stiff froth. Put in a tin saucepan one pint of milk and one ounce of
+sugar, set on the fire, and as soon as it rises put lumps of the whites
+into it with a skimmer, turn the lumps over after having been in about
+half a minute, leave them in another half minute, take them off with a
+skimmer also, place them on a sieve to allow the milk that may be around
+the lumps to drop. Put in a tin saucepan four yolks of eggs, two ounces
+of sugar, and mix well; add the milk that has been used to cook the
+whites, after having strained it, and mix again. Set on the fire, stir,
+give one boil, take off, add a few drops of essence to flavor; turn into
+a dish; place the lumps of whites gently on the liquor and they will
+float, and serve cold. If the liquor is desired thicker, use only half
+of the milk.
+
+_To poach Eggs._--Set cold water on the fire in a frying-pan, with salt
+and vinegar in it, a tablespoonful of vinegar to a quart of water. As
+soon as it boils, break a fresh egg in the water or in a small plate,
+and slide it gently into the water. Then with a skimmer turn the white
+gently and by degrees over the yolk, so as to envelop the latter in the
+former, giving the eggs an elongated shape. They may be poached hard or
+soft--hard when the yolk is cooked hard; soft when the yolk is still in
+a soft state.
+
+_Fondue of Eggs._--Beat well six eggs, and put them in a stewpan with
+two ounces of _Gruyère_, well grated, and about one ounce of butter; set
+on a brisk fire, and leave till it becomes rather thick, stirring all
+the time with a wooden spoon; take from the fire, add pepper, and stir
+a little; turn over on a warm dish, and serve. This is a very favorite
+dish in Italy, and also in Switzerland, where it originated.
+
+_To beat Whites of Eggs._--Have a convenient basin; break the eggs
+gently; allow the whites to fall in the basin and retain the yolks in
+the shell. This is very easily done by breaking the shell about the
+middle, opening slowly so as to let the white fall, and at the same time
+retain the yolk in one of the halves of the shell; if some white
+remains, turn the yolk from one half into the other, and _vice versa_,
+till the whole of it has fallen. Then add a very small pinch of salt to
+prevent the curdling of the eggs; commence by beating slowly; beat
+faster and faster, till they form a stiff froth. They are well beaten
+when, placing a twenty-five and a ten-cent silver piece on the top, they
+are firm enough to bear them. If the pieces sink, beat again. Always
+beat eggs in a cool place, they will rise better and faster. (_See_
+Egg-beater.)
+
+_Basin._--Pay no attention to the old prejudice and belief that metal is
+not good to beat eggs in. The best and easiest for family use, in which
+one as well as a dozen whites of eggs can be easily whisked, is of
+block-tin, and can be made by any tinsmith. It has the shape of an
+ordinary goblet or tumbler if the foot is cut off, the bottom being
+round. Size: six inches deep from the centre of the bottom to the top;
+eight inches in diameter at the top, and only six inches in diameter
+where the bottom commences (or five inches from the top); the basin
+being broader at the top than at the bottom, and the bottom being one
+inch deeper in the centre than on the sides.
+
+_Omelets--how to beat the Eggs._--Break in a bowl the quantity of eggs
+you want, or as many as there are persons at the table; beat them well
+with salt and pepper, by means of a fork. A little grated nutmeg may be
+added, if liked. The adding of milk to the eggs makes the omelet soft.
+
+_To make it._--Always have a brisk fire to make an omelet; the quicker
+it is made the better, and the less butter it requires. If possible,
+have a frying-pan to make omelets only in; keep it in a clean place and
+never wash it if you can help it; by warming it a little before making
+the omelets and wiping it with a coarse towel, you can keep it as clean
+as can be without washing. To wash it causes the omelet to adhere to it
+while cooking, and injures its appearance. Commence by beating the eggs,
+then put the butter in the frying-pan, about two ounces for eight eggs;
+set on the fire and toss gently to melt the butter as evenly and as
+quickly as possible, else some of it will get black before the whole is
+melted. As soon as melted, turn the beaten eggs in, and stir and move
+continually with a fork or knife, so as to cook the whole as nearly as
+possible at the same time. If some part of the omelet sticks to the pan,
+add a little butter, and raise that part with a knife so as to allow the
+butter to run under it, and prevent it from sticking again. It must be
+done quickly, and without taking the pan from the fire. When cooked
+according to taste, soft or hard, fold, dish, and serve warm.
+
+It is _folded_ in this way: run the knife or fork under one part of the
+omelet, on the side nearest to the handle of the pan, and turn that part
+over the other part of the omelet, so as to double it or nearly so; then
+have an oval dish in your left hand, take hold of the frying-pan with
+the right hand, the thumb upward instead of the fingers, as is generally
+the case in taking hold of a pan, incline the dish by raising the left
+side, place the edge of the pan (the one opposite to the handle) on the
+edge of the dish, turn it upside down--and you have the omelet on the
+dish, doubled up and sightly. Cooks do not succeed in turning out a
+decent omelet generally, because they cook it too much, turn it upside
+down in the pan, or because they do not know how to handle the pan.
+
+In holding the pan as it is generally and naturally held, that is, with
+the palm of the hand resting on the upper side of the handle, it is
+impossible for anybody, cook or other, to dish the omelet properly
+without extraordinary efforts; while by resting the thumb on the upper
+part of the handle, the fingers under it, the little finger being the
+nearest to the pan, it is only necessary to move the right hand from
+right to left, describing a circle and twisting the wrist, so that, when
+the pan is turned upside down, the fingers are up instead of downward,
+as they were when taking hold of the pan.
+
+An omelet is called soft if, when you commence to fold, only about
+two-thirds of the eggs are solidified; and hard, when nearly the whole
+of the eggs are solidified. With a good fire it takes only about four
+minutes to make an omelet.
+
+By following our directions carefully, it will be very easy to make an
+omelet, and make it well and sightly, even the first time, and will be
+child's play to make one after a few days' practice.
+
+_With Apples._--Peel two or three apples, cut them in thin, round
+slices, fry them with a little butter, and take them from the pan; then
+put a little more butter in the pan, and when hot, pour in it six beaten
+eggs, in which you have mixed the slices of apples; cook, dish, and
+serve as directed above.
+
+_With Asparagus._--Cut the eatable part of the asparagus half an inch in
+length, throw them in boiling water with a little salt, drain them when
+cooked, and chop them fine; beat them with eggs and a little milk; have
+hot butter in a frying-pan on a good fire; pour the eggs in, tossing
+continually till done, and serve on a dish as directed.
+
+_With Bacon._--Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan; when melted,
+add two ounces of bacon cut in dice; when turning brown and very hot,
+pour in eight eggs, beaten as directed above; toss the pan nearly all
+the time till done, and serve as directed.
+
+_Au naturel._--Beat five eggs, with salt and pepper, as directed. Put
+about an ounce of butter in a frying-pan on the fire, and when melted,
+turn the eggs in; cook, dish, and serve as directed.
+
+_Aux Fines Herbes._--Proceed as for _au naturel_ in every particular,
+except that you beat with the eggs a tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
+or parsley and chives, when handy; cook, dish, and serve in the same
+way.
+
+_Célestine._--Beat eight eggs as directed. Dip the point of a small
+kitchen knife in water and cut with it little lumps of butter the size
+of a pea and of any shape; about two ounces of it, drop them in the eggs
+and beat a little to mix, then melt butter in a frying-pan and cook,
+dish, and serve as directed.
+
+_In the Oven._--When the omelet _au naturel_ or _Célestine_ is cooked
+enough to commence folding, put the frying-pan in a quick oven for about
+one minute and serve. The omelet swells and does not need folding, but
+if it gains in bulk, it loses in taste.
+
+_Jardinière._--Chop fine, parsley, chives, onions, shallots, a few
+leaves of sorrel, and a few sprigs of chervil; beat and mix the whole
+well with beaten eggs; cook, dish, and serve as directed. It requires a
+little more butter than if made with eggs only.
+
+_With Cheese._--Grate some pine-apple or _Gruyère_ cheese, about two
+ounces to four or five eggs, and mix and beat it with the eggs; then
+make the omelet as directed.
+
+_With Kidney._--_Sauté_ as directed, till about half done, part of a
+beef or calf's kidney, or one sheep's kidney, and mix it with beaten
+eggs. Cook and serve as directed. It makes an excellent dish for
+breakfast. The kidney may be cooked till done, and when the omelet is to
+be folded in the pan, put five or six tablespoonfuls of the kidney on
+the middle of the omelet, fold, dish, and serve as directed. When
+dished, none of the kidney is seen, being under the omelet.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Cut mushrooms in pieces, and mix them, with beaten
+eggs; then cook and serve them as directed. This also makes an excellent
+dish for breakfast, especially if made with fresh mushrooms.
+
+_With Sorrel._--Make an omelet _au naturel_ or _Célestine_, and serve it
+on a _purée_ of sorrel. The same may be served on a _purée_ of tomatoes
+or onions.
+
+_With Lobster._--Cut two ounces of boiled lobster in small dice, mix it
+well with beaten eggs, and cook and serve as directed.
+
+_With Sugar._--Mix well the yolks of eight eggs with two ounces of fine
+white sugar and a pinch of salt, and beat well the whites; then mix well
+yolks, whites, and the rind of half a lemon, having the latter chopped
+very fine. Put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and set it on the
+fire; when melted, pour the eggs in, and toss and stir as directed. Then
+dust a dish with fine white sugar, put the omelet on, then dust again
+the upper side with the same; have ready a red-hot shovel, or any other
+flat piece of iron, pass it over the top of the omelet, so as to color
+it while melting the sugar, and serve warm. The whole process must be
+performed quickly. The sugar may be beaten with the eggs whole; both
+ways are good; it is only a question of taste.
+
+_With Rum._--Make an omelet with sugar as above, and when on the table,
+pour a gill or so of rum on it, set fire to it, and let it burn as long
+as it can, taking slowly but continually with a silver spoon the rum
+from the sides, and pouring it on the middle while it is burning, and
+until it dies out by itself; then eat immediately.
+
+_With Truffles._--Slice four ounces of truffles, beat them with six
+eggs, a little milk, and a little salt and pepper. Put in a frying-pan
+four ounces of butter, and set it on a good fire; when melted, pour the
+eggs in, toss almost continually till done, and serve as directed for
+omelets.
+
+_With Ham._--Cut four ounces of ham in small dice, and set it on the
+fire in a frying-pan with about two ounces of butter; stir, and while
+the ham is frying, beat six eggs and turn them over the ham in the pan
+when the latter is fried; stir with a fork, to cook the eggs as quickly
+as possible; turn the part of the omelet nearest to you over the other
+part by means of a fork, and serve like an omelet _au naturel_.
+
+_With Boiled Ham._--Proceed as for the above in every particular, except
+that you mix the ham with the eggs after the latter are beaten; put the
+mixture in the frying-pan, and finish as the above.
+
+_With Salt Pork (called omelet au Lard)._--Beat half a dozen eggs with a
+fork. Cut four ounces of salt pork in dice, set it on the fire in a
+frying-pan, and when nearly fried turn the eggs in; stir, and finish as
+other omelets. Lean or fat salt pork (according to taste) may be used,
+or both. If it is all lean, use some butter, otherwise it will burn.
+
+_Soufflée._--Put in a bowl four ounces of pulverized sugar with four
+yolks of eggs; then with a wooden spoon mix well and stir for two
+minutes; add a few drops of essence to flavor. Beat the whites of four
+eggs to a stiff froth in another bowl, and when you see that they are
+beaten enough, turn two tablespoonfuls of the yolks and sugar into them,
+and while still beating, but not as fast; then turn the rest of the
+yolks and sugar into the whites, and mix gently with a wooden spoon.
+Butter a tin or silver dish, turn the mixture into it, smooth or scallop
+with the back of a knife, dust with sugar, and bake in an oven at about
+310°. It takes about twelve minutes to bake.
+
+_Another._--Mix well six yolks of eggs with four ounces of sugar; beat
+the six whites to a stiff froth and mix them with the rest, add some
+lemon-rind chopped very fine or grated. Put four ounces of butter in a
+crockery dish, set on a moderate fire, and when the butter is melted
+pour the eggs in; stir with a fork, and as soon as you see some of the
+mixture becoming hard, place the dish in a hot oven for about five
+minutes; take off, dust with sugar, and serve.
+
+_Macédoine, or à la Washington._--Make four omelets of four eggs each,
+one with apples, one with asparagus or sorrel (according to the season),
+a third with _fines herbes_, and the fourth _au naturel_; you serve them
+on the same dish, one lapping over the other. It makes a fine as well as
+a good dish.
+
+This omelet, or rather these omelets, were a favorite dish with the
+Father of his Country; they were very often served on his table when he
+had a grand dinner. It is also served with the four following omelets:
+_au naturel_, with salt pork, _fines herbes_, and with cheese.
+
+_With Oysters._--Blanch a dozen oysters, drain, and beat with the eggs,
+and then proceed as directed.
+
+_With Tunny, or any kind of smoked or salt Fish._--Beat the eggs as
+directed, using little or no salt; then chop the fish fine, mix and beat
+it with the eggs, and cook as directed. It requires a little more butter
+than if there were no fish. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added when
+dished.
+
+_With Sweetmeats._--Make an omelet _au naturel_, and when ready to be
+folded in the pan, place on the middle of it two or three tablespoonfuls
+of any kind of sweetmeats, then fold and serve.
+
+Omelets are served as _entremets_ after the vegetables, and at
+breakfast. All but four are served as _entremets_, and all are served at
+breakfast; the four excepted are: with bacon, ham, salt pork, and
+kidneys. By using different kinds of sweetmeats, an infinite number of
+omelets can be made, and, except the _soufflée_, they are all made
+alike.
+
+_Macaroni._--This excellent article of food is now as well known here as
+in Europe. The harder the wheat the better the macaroni. The
+manufacturers of this country use Michigan flour in preference to any
+other.
+
+_To blanch._--Put about three pints of cold water and a little salt on
+the fire, and at the first boiling drop half a pound of macaroni into
+it; boil gently till tender but not soft. It takes about twenty minutes
+to boil it, according to quality. A little butter, about two ounces, may
+be added in boiling. As soon as tender, turn it into a colander, and it
+is ready for use.
+
+_Au Gratin._--Blanch the macaroni, and when drained put it on a tin or
+silver dish, and mix with it a _Béchamel_ sauce; add salt, pepper, two
+or three ounces of butter, a little nutmeg grated, about four ounces of
+grated cheese, either pine-apple, _Gruyère_, or Parmesan; dust with
+bread-crumbs, put about eight pieces of butter the size of a hazel-nut
+here and there on the top, set in a warm but not quick oven till the top
+turns rather brown, and serve warm as it is, that is, in the dish in
+which it is. If in a tin dish, put it inside of another dish, and serve.
+
+_A l'Italienne._--Blanch half a pound of macaroni and drain it. Put it
+in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, and mix well by stirring the
+butter in the warm macaroni. Then add also three or four tablespoonfuls
+of gravy; mix again half a pint of tomato-sauce and grated cheese, as
+for _au gratin_; set on the fire, stir, add salt to taste; keep on the
+fire for about ten minutes, stirring now and then, and serve warm.
+
+_Napolitaine._--This is the most expensive way of preparing macaroni.
+Wealthy Italians have it prepared with beef à la mode gravy only, or
+gravy made especially for it, with good lean beef cut in dice, and using
+as many as twelve pounds of meat to make gravy for one pound of
+macaroni, the meat being prepared as boiled beef afterward, but it can
+be prepared with ordinary gravy.
+
+Blanch four ounces of macaroni and drain as directed, then put it in a
+saucepan with two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, a little grated
+nutmeg, and set on the fire; stir till the butter is melted, and then
+add grated cheese as directed for _au gratin_, and half a pint of gravy;
+stir and mix for about ten minutes, and serve. Macaroni requires much
+butter; the quantity of cheese is according to taste; some put weight
+for weight of macaroni, butter, and cheese. It is also prepared in a
+mould (_en timbale_) for _chartreuse_; it is macaroni _Napolitaine_,
+when every thing is mixed with it; instead of leaving it ten minutes on
+the fire, put it in the mould, set in the oven for about fifteen
+minutes, turn over a dish, and serve warm. In using much cheese, the
+macaroni will preserve the form of the mould when served.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Proceed as for rice _croquettes_.
+
+_Rice--to boil._--Wash half a pound of rice in water and drain it; put
+it in a saucepan with one quart of broth taken from the top of the
+broth-kettle, and before having skimmed off the fat; set on the fire,
+boil gently for about fifteen minutes, or till rather underdone, and put
+on a very slow fire to finish the cooking. Water and butter may be used
+instead of broth. If the broth is absorbed or boiled away before the
+rice is cooked, add a little more to keep it moist; add salt, pepper,
+and nutmeg to taste, and it is ready for use.
+
+_Another way._--When boiled, place it in a slow oven to dry it, and then
+pour over it, little by little, stirring the while, four ounces of
+melted butter.
+
+_Another._--Wash half a pound of rice in cold water and drain it. Put it
+in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water, salt, and the juice of two
+lemons; boil six minutes, and drain; put it in a saucepan then with
+about six ounces of melted butter; mix, cover the pan well, and put it
+in a slow oven for about half an hour; take off and use.
+
+Rice may be boiled in several different ways, or rather with several
+ingredients. To the above ways, in India or other southern countries,
+they add, besides salt and nutmeg, a teaspoonful of curry-powder to a
+pound of rice. In Italy they add slices of ham, sausage, saffron, and
+even Parmesan cheese. When cooked, chopped truffles may be added at the
+same time with the butter. Oil is sometimes used instead of butter.
+
+_In Border._--When thus prepared, take it with a spoon and place it all
+around the dish, leaving room in the middle to serve a bird, and then
+serve warm.
+
+_Another way._--When prepared as above, put the rice in a mould for
+border; the rice must be rather dry and the mould well buttered. Press
+on it so as to fill the mould well, then put it in an oven at about 350
+deg. Fahr. for ten or twelve minutes. Take off, place a dish on the
+mould, turn it upside down, and remove the mould. The inside of a mould,
+for border, is plain, but the outside and bottom are scalloped; the
+bottom makes the top of the rice when served. There is an empty place in
+the centre to hold a bird.
+
+_Cake._--Butter a mould well and then dust it with sugar. Prepare rice
+as directed for _croquettes_, and instead of spreading it on a dish to
+cool, fill the mould about two-thirds full with it, and bake in a warm
+but not quick oven for about half an hour. Serve on a dish. The mould
+may be prepared with sugar only in this way: put pulverized sugar into
+the mould, set it on a rather slow fire, and when turning rather brown
+turn the mould round and round, so as to have it lined all over with
+sugar; bake as above, turn over a dish, remove the mould, and serve hot
+or cold, with or without a sauce for puddings.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Wash four ounces of rice in cold water and set it on
+the fire with a pint of milk and the rind of half a lemon; when done or
+nearly so, the milk may be boiled away or absorbed by the rice; add a
+little more to keep the rice nearly covered with it. When done, take off
+and mix with it two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two ounces of butter, two
+tablespoonfuls of milk, three yolks of eggs, a little pinch of salt, and
+the same of nutmeg--the latter, if liked. Put back on the fire for one
+minute, stirring the while. Spread the mixture on a dish and let cool.
+If the _croquettes_ are for _breakfast_, the above may be done the
+evening previous. When cold, stir the mixture, so as to mix the upper
+part with the rest that is less dry. Put it in parts on the paste-board,
+about a tablespoonful for each part. Have bread-crumbs on it, roll each
+part of the shape you wish, either round, like a small sausage, or flat,
+or of a chop-shape. Then dip each _croquette_ in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs again, and fry in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.)
+
+To shape them, roll each part round at first, and with a few
+bread-crumbs; then with a knife you smooth both ends, while you roll
+them round with the left hand; the two must be done at the same time.
+When fried and in the colander, dust with sugar, and serve as warm as
+possible. _Croquettes_ are generally served in pyramid. A napkin may be
+spread on the platter, and the _croquettes_ served on it.
+
+_In Fritters._--When a rice-cake is cold, it may be cut in pieces,
+dipped in batter for fritters, fried (_see_ Frying), dusted with sugar,
+and served hot.
+
+_Soufflé._--Prepare rice as directed for _croquettes_, and when ready to
+be spread on a dish, add a few drops of essence to flavor; have five
+whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and mix them gently with it;
+butter a mould well, fill it two-thirds full with the mixture, dust with
+sugar and set in a warm but not quick oven, and serve as soon as brown
+and raised. It takes from fifteen to twenty minutes. If the oven is
+warmer under the cake than on the top, it would be necessary to place
+something under the mould, the cake rises better and is lighter. This
+cake, like every _soufflé_, must be served promptly and before it falls.
+
+_With Fruit._--This dish is excellent, sightly, easily made, and can be
+varied infinitely. The rice is prepared as for _croquettes_, and is
+used when ready to be spread over a dish to cool. The fruit, if it be
+_apples_, _pears_, _plums_, etc., is stewed. One or several kinds may be
+used for the same dish. It is served warm or cold, according to taste.
+Place a layer of stewed fruit on a dish and then a layer of rice over
+it; another layer of the same or of another stewed fruit, and over it a
+layer of rice. Place as many layers as you fancy, imitating a pyramid,
+and you have a fine dish.
+
+_Rice-water._--This being often prescribed by doctors against
+diarrhroea, we will give the receipt for it. See that the rice is clean,
+but do not wash it. Put one pint of rice in a pan with a quart of cold
+water, and boil gently till the rice is quite soft or a little overdone;
+if the water boils away, fill up with cold water so as to have the rice
+always covered by it. When done, mash it through a colander, put back on
+the fire, add water to make it thin or thick, according to prescription;
+as soon as warm, sweeten to taste with sugar or honey, and take cold or
+warm, also according to prescription.
+
+_Nouilles._--Put four tablespoonfuls of flour on the paste-board; make a
+hole in the middle, and break two eggs in it, add a pinch of salt, and
+knead well; then roll down to a thickness of one-twelfth of an inch;
+dust it slightly with flour; cut it in strips about an inch wide; then
+cut these strips across, so as to make fillets one inch long and
+one-eighth of an inch broad. Spread the strips on a sieve for half an
+hour, to dry them a little. Put cold water and a pinch of salt in a
+saucepan, and set it on the fire; at the first boiling throw the
+_nouilles_ in, boil two minutes, stirring occasionally; drain, throw
+them in cold water and it is ready for use. It may be kept in cold water
+half a day. _Nouilles_ are used to make soup, and are prepared in the
+same and every way like macaroni.
+
+
+
+
+  SWEET DISHES.
+
+
+These are served both as _entremets_ and _dessert_. Many are _entremets_
+at a grand dinner, and _dessert_ at a family dinner. As the name
+indicates, sugar is one of the most important of the compounds used to
+prepare them. It is used in syrup, the making of which is generally more
+difficult than the rest of the operation.
+
+The _father of cooks_, the great Careme, divides syrup, or the "cooking
+of sugar," as he calls it, and as every practitioner has called it
+since, into six degrees; each one corresponding to the six different
+states into which the sugar passes, while on the fire, from the time it
+begins to boil to that when it begins to turn _caramel_ or burned.
+
+A copper pan is the best and handiest of all; it can be done in another,
+but it is more difficult; the sugar turns brown before being thoroughly
+cooked or reduced. Always use good loaf sugar. If it be necessary to
+clarify it, do it in the following way: for five pounds of sugar, put
+the white of an egg in a bowl with half a pint of water, and beat well
+with an egg-beater; then turn into it nearly three pints of water, stir,
+put away half a pint of it to be used afterward. Then add to the rest
+five pounds of sugar, in lumps, set on a rather slow fire, and as soon
+as it comes to a boil, mix with it the half pint put away, little by
+little, skimming off carefully the while, and when no more scum gathers
+on the surface, strain through a towel and commence the working. If the
+sugar does not require to be clarified, that is, when it is good white
+sugar, set five pounds of it on the fire, in a copper pan, with nearly
+two quarts of water, and skim off carefully as soon as the scum gathers.
+It may be stirred a little to cause the sugar to melt evenly, but as
+soon as it commences to boil, stop stirring, else it will turn white and
+stringy. It passes from one state or degree to another in a very short
+time, and must be watched closely. It is at the _first_ degree when, by
+dipping a piece of wood into it so as to retain a drop of it at the end,
+and which you touch with another piece of wood--if, by pulling them
+apart, slowly and immediately, instead of separating it at once, it
+forms a thread, but that soon breaks. It marks then 34 at the
+hydrometer. It is at the _second_ degree when, by repeating the same
+process, the kind of thread formed does not break as easily as the
+first. It marks then 36. It is at the _third_ degree when, by dipping a
+skimmer in it, holding it horizontally and striking it on the pan, then
+blowing on it, it forms small bubbles. It marks 39 at the hydrometer. It
+is at the _fourth_ degree by trying again with the skimmer after a short
+time, and when, instead of forming bubbles, it will fly away like
+threads. It marks then 41. The _fifth_ degree is when, by dipping a
+piece of wood in the sugar and quickly dipping it also in a bowl of cold
+water, shaking it at the same time and then biting it; if it breaks
+easily between the teeth, but at the same time is sticky, it has
+attained the fifth degree, and marks 44. A few boilings more and it is
+at the _sixth_ degree, and by trying in the same way as the preceding
+one, it will break under the teeth, but will not stick to them. Above 44
+the mark is uncertain, the syrup being too thick; it passes from that
+state to that of _caramel_; is colored, and would burn immediately. When
+that happens, make burnt sugar with it according to direction.
+
+_Apples au Beurre._--Peel and core the apples with a fruit-corer. Cut
+slices of stale bread about one-quarter of an inch in thickness, and
+then cut them again of a round shape with a paste-cutter and of the size
+of the apples. Spread some butter on each slice and place an apple on
+each also. Butter a bakepan, place the apples and bread in, fill the
+hole made in the middle of the apple to core it with sugar; place on the
+top of the sugar and on each a piece of butter the size of a hazel-nut,
+and set in a warm, but not quick oven. When about half done, fill the
+hole again with sugar and a pinch of cinnamon, place butter on top as
+before, and finish the cooking, serve warm. When done, they may be
+glazed with apple-jelly and put back in the oven for two minutes; the
+dish is more sightly.
+
+_Flambantes._--Lay apples in a saucepan, after being peeled and cored,
+add sugar to taste, and water enough just to cover them, also a stick of
+cinnamon, and set on a rather slow fire, and leave till done. Take them
+from the pan carefully and without breaking them; place them on a tin or
+silver dish, forming a kind of pyramid or mound; turn the juice over
+them, dust with sugar, pour good rum all over, set it on fire, and serve
+immediately and warm. As soon as on fire it is placed on the table, and
+the host must baste with the rum so as to keep it burning till all the
+alcohol is exhausted, then serve.
+
+The following cut represents either a dish of apples _flambantes_ before
+being in flames, or apples with rice.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_In Fritters._--Peel, core, and cut apples in slices, and then proceed
+as directed for fritters. Serve hot.
+
+_With Wine._--Proceed as for apples _flambantes_ in every particular
+except that you slice the apples, and instead of pouring rum over, you
+pour Madeira wine, and do not set it on fire.
+
+_Meringués._--Peel, quarter, and core half a dozen apples; set them on
+the fire in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir
+occasionally till done, then mix with them two or three tablespoonfuls
+of sugar, and when cold put them on a tin or silver dish; arrange them
+as a mound on the middle of the dish. Beat three whites of eggs to a
+stiff froth, and mix three ounces of pulverized sugar with them; spread
+two thirds of that mixture all over and around the apples, smooth it
+with a knife; then put the other third in a paper funnel, and by
+squeezing it out, decorate the dish according to fancy. You may squeeze
+some small heaps of the mixture here and there, over and around the
+dish, or squeeze it out all around, giving it a rope-like shape. Dust
+with sugar, and put in an oven at 250 degrees for twenty to twenty-five
+minutes. Serve warm in the dish in which it has been baked.
+
+_Charlotte._--Peel, quarter, and core six apples; put them in a pan with
+two tablespoonfuls of water, cinnamon, and stew till done, when add
+three or four ounces of sugar, mix gently so as not to mash the apples,
+let cool. Butter a mould well, line it, bottom and sides, with strips of
+stale bread, about one quarter of an inch thick, one inch broad, and of
+a proper length for the mould. Fill till about half full with some of
+the apples, then put a rather thin layer of any kind of sweetmeat on the
+apples; finish the filling up with apples; cover with pieces of stale
+bread, bake in an oven at about 340 degrees for about twenty minutes,
+turn over on a dish, remove the mould, and serve hot.
+
+_With Sweetmeats._--Prepare apples _au beurre_, and when ready to be
+served, fill the hole with any kind of sweetmeats or with currant-jelly.
+Serve warm.
+
+_In Pine-Apple._--Core the apples with a fruit-corer and then peel them
+with the scalloped knife (the peels are used to make syrup or jelly),
+place them tastefully on a dish, so that they will form a pyramid,
+filling the place where the core was with sugar and a little cinnamon;
+then pour a little apple-syrup on the whole, and bake. When done, pour a
+little more syrup over, and serve cold or warm.
+
+_Apple-Syrup._--Peel, quarter, and core four or six apples, of the
+pippin variety; cook them well in about a pint of water, a wine-glass of
+brandy, and a pinch of grated cinnamon; when well cooked, put them in a
+coarse towel, and press the juice out; put it in a stewpan and set it on
+a good fire; add a pound of loaf-sugar, take the foam off with a skimmer
+a little before it boils, and boil about five minutes; take from the
+fire, let cool, bottle it, corking well. It may be kept for months.
+Syrup with pears, pine-apple, etc., is made in the same way.
+
+_Blanc-Mange._--Set on the fire in a block-tin saucepan one quart of
+milk with the rind of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of sugar; stir
+occasionally to melt the sugar. Then mix about six ounces of
+corn-starch with half a pint of milk in a bowl. As soon as the milk
+rises, take it from the fire; take off with a skimmer the rind of lemon,
+and the skin that has formed on the top of the milk; put the milk back
+on the fire; turn the corn-starch into it, stir continually and very
+fast till it is very thick. It will take hardly a minute to get thick.
+Turn into a mould wetted with cold water and put away to cool. When
+perfectly cold, serve with the following sauce: Mix well in a tin
+saucepan two ounces of sugar and two yolks of eggs, then add half a pint
+of milk and mix again; set on the fire; stir continually, give one boil;
+take off; let cool, and serve.
+
+_Blanc-Manger._--Throw in boiling water two ounces of sweet almonds and
+the same of bitter ones, or pour boiling water over them, and then skin
+them as soon as the skin comes off easily. Pound them well with four
+ounces of sugar, lay the whole in a pan with about a pint of water, set
+on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, take off and strain. Put
+in a tin saucepan about a pint of milk, the strained juice, an ounce of
+gelatin, a little rind of lemon, and a little nutmeg, both grated; set
+the whole on a moderate fire; simmer just enough to melt the gelatin and
+mix it with the rest, and then strain. Wet a mould with cold water, put
+the mixture in it, set it on ice, and serve when cool. It may be served
+with a sauce like the above.
+
+_Charlotte Russe._--Wipe a mould well, see that it is dry, and then line
+the bottom and sides with lady's-fingers, or sponge cake cut in pieces
+about the size of a lady's-finger. Commence by lining the bottom,
+placing the pieces so as to form a star or rosette, or plain, according
+to fancy. Then place some of them upright all around, rather tight, and
+even with the top of the mould. Fill with cream, well whipped,
+sweetened, and flavored with essence; place the mould on ice, and when
+ready to serve, place a dish on it, turn upside down, remove the mould,
+and serve as it is, or decorated.
+
+_To decorate._--Make a paper funnel, fill it with cream, or icing (sugar
+and white of egg worked), then spread some all over the top according to
+fancy; it is quickly done and is sightly. The mould may also be filled
+with some other cream; as _crème légère_, _crème cuite_, etc.
+
+_Charlotte à la Chantilly._--It is a _Charlotte_ made exactly as the
+above one, but filled with _crème à la Chantilly_.
+
+_A la Polonaise._--Make a sponge cake, cut it transversely, dip each
+piece in cream (any kind) and then place them back where they were so as
+to give the cake its original form as near as possible. When thus
+re-formed, cover it with cream, dust with sugar, and decorate with any
+kind of sweetmeats. Besides the sweetmeats that are placed here and
+there all around, some currant-jelly may also be used to decorate. Place
+on ice for some time, and serve.
+
+_Italian._--Peel, quarter, and core about a quart of pears and set them
+on a rather slow fire, in a saucepan with half a pint of white wine,
+sugar, cinnamon, and lemon-rind. While they are cooking, line a mould as
+for _Charlotte Russe_, remove the lemon-rind, and fill the mould with
+the pears; place it on ice when cool, turn over on a dish, remove the
+mould, decorate with icing, or cover entirely with apple-jelly, and
+serve. It is also made with _génoise_ cake instead of sponge cake.
+
+_Française._--This is prepared and served like a _Charlotte Russe_, with
+the exception that it is filled with _blanc manger_ or _fromage à la
+crème_ instead of cream.
+
+_Of Fruit._--This is made of cherries or any kind of berries; cherries
+must be stoned carefully. Dip the fruit in wine-jelly as soon as the
+latter is cool, but not firm, and line a mould with it. By having the
+mould on ice it will be more easily done. Fill the mould with cream, as
+for _Charlotte Russe_, place on ice, and serve as soon as congealed.
+When the mould is taken from the ice, dip it in warm water a few
+seconds, place a dish over it, turn upside down, remove it, and serve
+immediately. A _Charlotte_ of fruit is sightly enough without
+decorations; it requires some time to make it, but it is worth the
+trouble, being a handsome as well as a good dish.
+
+_Another._--Line a mould as for the above. Put one ounce of gelatin in a
+bowl with about three tablespoonfuls of water and leave it so for about
+half an hour. Mix well together in a saucepan four yolks of eggs and
+three ounces of pulverized sugar, add about three tablespoonfuls of
+milk, and mix again; set on the fire and stir for about three minutes,
+add the gelatin, stir again, give one boil, and put away to cool a
+little. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, turn the above
+mixture into them, mix gently again; fill the mould with the whole,
+place on ice till perfectly cold. When cold, turn upside down on a dish,
+remove the mould, decorate as the preceding one, and serve cold.
+
+_Cheese with Cream--(Fromage à la Crème_).--This is made in different
+ways; sometimes with soft curds only, or with curds and cream, or with
+cream only when very thick. Gelatin dissolved in a little water may also
+be added. The curds or cream, or both, are beaten with an egg-beater,
+sweetened to taste with sugar, and flavored with essence. To make it
+more sightly, when beaten and flavored, it is moulded, placed on ice to
+make it firm, and then turned over a dish, the mould removed, and then
+served. Any kind of essence may be used to flavor it, such as vanilla,
+_fleur d'oranger_, rose-water, violet, etc.; it may also be made with
+coffee, tea, chocolate, orange, lemon, etc. Put a few drops of very
+strong coffee, or tea, or chocolate at the same time with the sugar and
+essence.
+
+With orange or lemon, rub them on a piece of sugar, which you pound and
+use to sweeten the cheese. Three or more different ones may be made with
+a quart of curds; for instance, flavor one third of it with essence,
+another third with coffee or chocolate, and the other with orange. The
+colors will be different also. It is an excellent and refreshing
+_entremets_ in summer-time. Cheese may also be flavored with pine-apple
+cut in very small dice and mixed with it instead of essence.
+
+_Compotes, or Jams.--How to make syrup for Compotes.--Common
+Syrup._--Put a pound of loaf-sugar in a crockery stewpan, with a pint of
+water, a wine-glass of brandy, and a pinch of well-grated cinnamon; set
+it on a slow fire, boil gently for ten minutes, skimming off the foam;
+then take from the fire and let cool; bottle it; cork it well and keep
+it to use when wanted. It may be kept for months in a cool and dry
+place.
+
+Stewed fruit of any kind is called either _compote_ or jam. They are
+first peeled and cored and then cooked with sugar, water, and sometimes
+cinnamon, or cloves, both in powder and according to taste; also
+lemon-juice or rind to taste. Cinnamon agrees well with any kind of
+apples, but is not liked by every one in every kind of fruit. The fruits
+may be cooked and served whole, in halves, or quarters, or mashed,
+according to fancy and taste. The proportions of water and sugar are
+also according to taste, or according to the nature or state of the
+fruit. Sour apples require more sugar than sweet ones, unripe berries
+require more also than ripe ones. The preparation is very simple; not
+being prepared to keep, they are served as soon as cold. They may be
+served warm, but they are certainly not as good. When there is not syrup
+(juice) enough, pour some of the above over the fruit, or some
+apple-syrup. The peels and cores of the apples may be used to make
+syrup, together with those of pears.
+
+While peeling, coring, or cutting fruit, drop each in cold water, else
+it changes color and is unsightly.
+
+When cold, the _compote_ may be put in a mould; turn over a dish, remove
+the mould, and serve. Several kinds may be served on the same dish as
+well as one; being of different colors, the dish is more sightly, and
+quite as good. Loaf-sugar is the best.
+
+Instead of cooking them with water, etc., as directed above, put some
+syrup on the fire, and as soon as it boils, drop the prepared fruit in
+it, and boil slowly till done.
+
+_Of Apples._--Quarter, peel, core, and put apples in a stewpan with a
+gill of water for two quarts, sugar and cinnamon to taste; when done,
+dish them, pour the juice in the stewpan all over, and serve cold. If
+there is not juice enough, add some apple-syrup.
+
+_Of Apricots or Peaches._--Take two quarts of apricots or peaches and
+cut them in two, remove the stones. Throw them in boiling water for two
+minutes and take off; drop in cold water and take out immediately, then
+skin them. Put about half a pint of water in a crockery pan or in a
+well-lined one, and at the first boil put the peaches in, with sugar to
+taste; boil gently till done, turn the whole over a dish, and serve
+cold. If there is not juice or syrup enough, add a little common syrup.
+
+_Of Blackberries, Currants, Raspberries, Strawberries, and other like
+Berries._--Prepare syrup of sugar, and when at the second, third, or
+fourth state, throw the berries in; boil from one to five minutes,
+according to the kind, take from the fire, and serve when cold.
+
+_Of Cherries._--Cut off the stalks of the cherries about half their
+length, wash well and drain them. Put them in a stewpan in which there
+is just enough syrup at the first degree to cover them; boil slowly till
+cooked, and serve.
+
+_Of Oranges._--Peel four oranges, and divide each carpel without
+breaking it, and then throw them in syrup of sugar at the fourth or
+fifth degree, and boil slowly three or four minutes; take from the fire,
+let cool, and serve.
+
+_Of Pears._--Peel the pears, cut the stem half its length, put them in a
+stewpan with a little sugar, a few drops of lemon-juice, a pinch of
+cinnamon, and a little water. Set on a moderate fire, and at the first
+boiling add two gills of claret wine. Simmer till cooked, then put the
+pears only on a dish; set the stewpan back on the fire, add to the juice
+in it about the same quantity of syrup of pears or of syrup of sugar at
+the third degree, boil fifteen minutes longer, pour the whole on the
+pears, and serve warm or cold.
+
+_Of Lemons._--Peel the lemons, cut them in pieces, remove the seeds, and
+proceed as for that of oranges, boiling a little longer.
+
+_Of Pine-Apple._--Peel and cut in slices, put them in a crockery pan,
+with a little water and sugar, set on a good fire, and finish and serve
+like apricots.
+
+_Of Plums._--Throw the plums in boiling water, and take them out when
+half cooked; put them in a crockery stewpan, with a little water and a
+little sugar; simmer till cooked, place them on a dish, pour some
+common syrup on, and serve when cold.
+
+_Of Quinces._--Quarter, peel, and core the quinces; throw them in
+boiling water for five minutes; take out and drain them; put them in a
+crockery stewpan, with four ounces of sugar for every pound of quinces,
+a few drops of lemon-juice, a little water, and a pinch of grated
+cinnamon; set it on the fire, simmer till cooked, place them on a dish,
+pour some common syrup on them, and serve cold.
+
+_Of Chestnuts._--Roast about one quart of chestnuts, remove the skin and
+pith, lay them in a pan with half a gill of water and four ounces of
+sugar; set on a slow fire, toss now and then till the sugar and water
+are absorbed or evaporated, turn over a dish, dust with sugar, and serve
+warm or cold. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added just before
+dusting with sugar.
+
+_Cold Compote._--Wash strawberries and raspberries in cold water, drain
+dry, and place them on a dish. Pour boiling common syrup or boiling
+currant-jelly all over; let cool, and serve.
+
+_Of Cranberries._--Put one pint of water in a tin saucepan, with six
+ounces of loaf-sugar, the rind of half a lemon, and set it on the fire;
+boil down until, by dipping a spoon in it, it adheres to it. Then throw
+in it about one pint of cranberries; boil about twelve minutes, stirring
+now and then, take off, let cool, and serve.
+
+_Another._--After having boiled ten minutes in the same way as above,
+and with the same proportions of sugar, cranberries, etc., take from the
+fire, mash through a fine colander or sieve, put back on the fire, boil
+gently five minutes, let cool, and serve.
+
+_Creams or Crèmes au Citron_ (_with Lemon_).--Put one pint of milk in a
+tin saucepan with the rind of a lemon; set on the fire, and as soon as
+it rises place an iron spoon in it and boil gently five minutes; take
+from the fire. Mix well in a bowl four ounces of sugar with four yolks
+of eggs, then turn the milk into the bowl, little by little, stirring
+and mixing at the same time. Strain the mixture and put it in small
+cups; put the cups in a pan of boiling water, boil gently for about ten
+minutes, and put in the oven as it is, that is, leaving the cups in the
+water. The cups must not be more than half covered with water, else the
+water will fly into it. It takes from ten to fifteen minutes to finish
+the cooking in the oven, according to the size of the cups. Take them
+from the oven when the _crème_ is rather firm, except a little spot in
+the middle, and which you ascertain by moving the cups.
+
+Anyone with an ordinary amount of intelligence can make creams as well
+as the best cooks, after having tried only two or three times. When you
+know how to make one, you can make fifty, just by using different
+flavorings.
+
+_Au Café (with Coffee_).--The stronger the coffee the better the cream.
+The most economical way of making strong coffee is: when you intend to
+have cream with coffee for dinner, put the first drops that fall, when
+you make the coffee for breakfast, into a glass; put it immediately in
+cold water, and as soon as cool cover it with paper, which you tie
+around it with twine, and use when you make the cream.
+
+Always use good fresh milk and fresh eggs. As soon as the whites of the
+eggs are separated from the yolks, put them, together with the shells,
+on ice, and use the next day to clarify your jellies, or to make icing,
+etc. A little care is a great saving in the kitchen.
+
+Put one quart of milk in a milk-pan on the fire and take off as soon as
+it rises. While the milk is on the fire, mix well together in a bowl
+eight yolks of eggs with half a pound of sugar, and coffee to flavor;
+then turn the milk into the mixture, little by little, stirring the
+while; when the whole is thoroughly mixed, strain it. Put the mixture in
+cream-cups, place the cups in a pan of boiling water--enough water to
+half cover them; boil slowly for about ten minutes, put the pan and cups
+in a moderately-heated oven, and take off when done. It takes from ten
+to fifteen minutes to finish the cooking, according to the size of the
+cups. It is done when the whole is solidified except a little spot in
+the centre, which, by moving the cups, will shake somewhat. Serve cold.
+
+_With Burnt Sugar._--Put two ounces of sugar in a small tin pan, with a
+tablespoonful of water, set on the fire, and boil till burnt and of a
+light-brown color; take off, and put it in a stewpan with a pint of
+milk, four ounces of white sugar, a few drops of rose or orange-flower
+water; boil ten minutes, stirring occasionally; take from the fire, beat
+the yolks of two eggs, and one entire, put in the pan and mix the whole
+well, then strain, after which you put the mixture in small cream-pots
+for that purpose; place them in a hot but not boiling _bain-marie_, and
+as soon as it thickens take them out, dust them with fine white sugar,
+let cool; place them on ice for about fifteen minutes, and then it is
+ready to be served.
+
+_With Chocolate._--Put in a stewpan and on a moderate fire six ounces of
+chocolate, three tablespoonfuls of water, three ounces of white sugar,
+stir now and then with a wooden spoon till melted; then pour in it,
+little by little, a quart of good fresh milk; boil ten minutes, take
+from the fire, and mix in it one egg well beaten with the yolks of five
+others; strain through a fine sieve, put in cream-pots or cups, place
+them in a hot but not boiling _bain-marie_, take off as soon as it
+thickens, dust with fine white sugar, let cool, place on ice for about
+fifteen minutes, and use.
+
+_With Orange._--Use orange-rind, and proceed as for lemon-cream in every
+other particular.
+
+_With Tea._--Proceed with strong tea as for cream _au café_ in every
+other particular.
+
+_With Essence._--Make cream _au café_, with the exception that, instead
+of using coffee to flavor, you use a few drops of vanilla, rose-water,
+orange-flower water, violet, cinnamon, etc.--any kind of essence, to
+taste.
+
+_With Cinnamon._--Beat well together in a bowl about an ounce of
+potato-starch, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, four eggs, four ounces of
+sugar, and milk enough to make a rather liquid batter. Turn the mixture
+into a mould, which put into a pan of boiling water for fifteen minutes,
+then place in the oven till cooked. Serve cold.
+
+_Cuite._--Put two ounces of sugar in a tin pan with two eggs, and mix
+well; then add an ounce of flour, little by little, mixing the while;
+then, in the same way, add also about a pint of boiled milk; set on the
+fire, stir continually till it turns rather thick; take off, flavor with
+essence to taste, let cool, and serve or use for filling.
+
+_Frangipane._--Set one pint of milk on the fire. Mix well together in
+another pan three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of flour, three eggs,
+three macaroons crumbled, and as soon as the milk rises, turn the
+mixture into it, little by little, stirring and mixing the while; keep
+stirring about three minutes; take off, add a few drops of essence to
+flavor; turn into a bowl, let cool, and it is ready for use. It may be
+made without the macaroons.
+
+_With Almonds._--Make as the above, with the exception that you use
+sweet almonds, chopped fine, instead of macaroons.
+
+_With Hazel-nuts._--Proceed as above, using hazel-nuts instead of
+almonds.
+
+_Légère._--Mix well together in a tin saucepan five yolks of eggs and
+five ounces of sugar; add four tablespoonfuls of milk, and mix again.
+Set the pan on the fire, and stir continually till it turns rather
+thick; take off, and add a few drops of essence; turn into a plate or
+dish and let cool. When cold, beat five whites of eggs to a stiff froth;
+have somebody to pour in the whites, and, while you are still beating,
+about two tablespoonfuls of the cold mixture, and stop beating. Then
+turn the rest of the mixture into the whites, and mix the whole together
+gently; do not stir too much, but move round and round with a wooden
+spoon, and it is done. If it is stirred too much, it may become too
+liquid. It makes an excellent and light cream.
+
+_Patissière._--Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and then mix
+about one ounce of pulverized sugar with them. Put four yolks of egg in
+a bowl with half a gill of milk, and beat well till thoroughly mixed.
+Put in a saucepan about two ounces of pulverized sugar, with a
+teaspoonful of potato-starch (_fecula_), and two-thirds of a gill of
+milk, and mix the whole well; then add the eggs and milk, and beat the
+whole well with an egg-beater. Set the pan on a rather slow fire, stir
+continually with a wooden spoon till it turns rather thick, and then
+turn the four whites and sugar into the pan also, little by little,
+stirring the while, and take off when thoroughly mixed. As soon as off
+the fire, add essence to flavor, and about one-quarter of an ounce of
+gelatine, dissolved in tepid water. Serve, or use to fill when cold.
+
+_Renversée._--Make cream with tea, coffee, or chocolate, and instead of
+turning the mixture into cream pots, turn it into a mould lined with
+burnt sugar; place the mould in boiling water for about fifteen minutes,
+place it in the oven to finish the cooking, turn over a dish, remove the
+mould, and serve cold. To line the mould, put two or three
+tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar in it; set it on a slow fire, and
+when the sugar is melted and turning brown, move the mould round and
+round to spread the sugar all over; then put the cream in it.
+
+_Sweet Cream._--We mean here the oily substance which forms a scum on
+milk; also called _whipped cream_. It is used to make Charlotte Russe,
+to fill _meringues_, _choux_, or cream-cakes, etc.
+
+Put a pint of good thick cream in a bowl, and if the weather is warm,
+place the bowl on ice for half an hour, then beat the cream with an
+egg-beater till stiff and thick. If the cream does not become stiff
+after having beaten it fifteen or twenty minutes at the longest, it is
+not good, or it is too warm. Good cream may rise and become stiff in
+five minutes. When beaten, add to it about four ounces of pulverized
+sugar, which you mix gently with it, not stirring too much; add also a
+few drops of essence to flavor. If wanted very stiff, add also, after
+the sugar, half an ounce of gelatin, melted in a little tepid water.
+When beaten and mixed, if not used immediately, it must be put on ice.
+
+_Chantilly._--It is the above cream flavored with _fleur d'orange_
+(orange-flower water), or with essence of violet.
+
+_Ice Cream._--Made with cream it is richer than with milk. With eggs it
+is better and richer than without, and those that advocate it without
+eggs, either have no palate, or do not know how to use them in making
+it.
+
+The addition of starch, fecula, arrow-root, flour, meal, etc., spoils
+it. The proportions are, to a quart of milk or cream: from four to six
+eggs; from eight to fourteen ounces of pulverized sugar; essence, or
+chocolate, or fruit-jelly to flavor and color. Our receipt is for six
+eggs and fourteen ounces of sugar to a quart of milk.
+
+Set the milk on the fire, and when it comes to a boil, mix well half the
+sugar and the essence with six yolks and three whites of eggs; beat the
+three other whites separately to a stiff froth. As soon as the milk
+rises, take it from the fire, put half the sugar in it and stir to melt
+it, then turn the mixture into it also, little by little, beating the
+while with an egg-beater; set on the fire, and take off at the first
+boiling. While on the fire it must be beaten gently, as, if it is
+allowed to boil, the eggs may curdle. As soon as off the fire, mix the
+three whites with the rest, beating with an egg-beater, just enough to
+mix the whole well; put in cold, salt water to cool, and then freeze.
+
+The smaller the ice is broken and mixed with plenty of rock-salt, the
+quicker it freezes.
+
+_Custard._--Put four yolks of eggs in a bowl, then sprinkle flour on
+them, little by little, stirring and mixing well the while with a wooden
+spoon, and when the mixture is rather thick, stop sprinkling flour, but
+sprinkle milk, and mix again in the same way till the mixture is liquid;
+add sugar and essence to taste, beat the four whites to a stiff froth,
+mix them gently with the rest; butter a mould well, fill it about
+two-thirds full with the mixture, and set in a warm but not quick oven.
+Serve as soon as out of the oven. If intended to be served cold, omit
+the whites of eggs.
+
+_Fritters._--These are made with every kind of fruit, when ripe, peeled
+and stoned, or cored when necessary, and according to the kind. The
+fruit is used whole, such as strawberries and the like; or in slices,
+such as apples, pears, etc.; or in halves, like peaches, plums, etc. It
+may be used as soon as prepared; or may be soaked a few hours in a
+mixture of sugar, brandy, or rum, and lemon-rind.
+
+Have _batter for fritters_ made in advance, and while you are preparing
+the fruit heat the fat (_see_ Frying), dip each fruit or each slice in
+batter, drop it in the fat, stir and turn over, and when done, turn into
+a colander, dust well with fine white or pulverized sugar, and serve as
+warm (or rather as hot) as possible. Even the best fritters served cold
+make a very poor dish. Besides fruit, the blossoms of the acacia and
+those of the violet make the most delicate fritters.
+
+_With Bread or Pain perdu._--Set one pint of milk on the fire with two
+ounces of sugar, and the rind of half a lemon, stir now and then, and
+when it rises add a few drops of essence to flavor, then take off and
+soak in it slices of bread, cut with a paste-cutter and about half an
+inch thick. When well soaked, drain; dip them in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs, and fry and serve as fritters.
+
+_Glazed Fruit--Oranges glazed._--Oranges or any other fruit glazed, when
+mounted in a pyramid, is called _croque en bouche_.
+
+Peel the oranges; then divide the carpels and free them from the pith,
+and put them away in a warm place for a few hours; they may be left over
+night. Cut very fine wire in pieces about eight inches long, bend each
+piece at both ends, forming a hook; then run one end or hook through the
+carpel of orange, and hang it on a stick placed on something
+horizontally. In order not to spill any of the juice, hook the orange
+near the edge of that part that was the centre of the orange before
+being divided, and as the other end of the wire forms a hook also, it is
+easy to hang it.
+
+Prepare syrup of sugar, and when at the sixth degree take it from the
+fire, dip each carpel of orange into it and hang it again, and so on for
+the whole. As soon as dry enough to handle them, which takes hardly half
+a minute, pull off the wire and serve when perfectly cold.
+
+To mount them in pyramid is not difficult, but requires time. When they
+are cold, prepare again the same syrup of sugar as above, and take it
+from the fire. While the sugar is on the fire take a tin mould, a plain
+one, larger at the top than at the bottom, and slightly grease it with
+sweet-oil. A convenient size for a family is, seven inches high, six
+inches broad at the top, and only four inches at the bottom.
+
+Place one carpel of orange, resting on the bottom of the mould, along
+the side and the edge upward; as soon as the sugar is out of the fire,
+dip one of the two ends of another carpel into it, the edge only, and
+immediately place it as the first one, and touching it. The syrup being
+hot and liquid, the two pieces will adhere; do the same with others till
+you have one row around the bottom. Commence a second row as you did the
+first, but this time the first carpel you place must be dipped in sugar,
+in order to adhere to the first row, and all the others must also be
+dipped so as to adhere not only to the first piece placed, but also to
+the first row; and so on for each row till the mould is full, or till
+you have as much as you wish. As soon as cold, place a dish on the
+mould, turn upside down, and remove the mould. You have then a sightly
+dish, but not better than when served only glazed.
+
+_Another way to make it._--Grease with oil your marble for pastry, place
+the same mould as above over it but upside down, that is, the broader
+end down; grease the outside also with oil. Then place the rows of
+carpels of oranges all around outside of it, and in the same way as
+described above. The _croque en bouche_ is more easily made this last
+way, but it is more difficult to remove the mould. Mould and fruit must
+be turned upside down carefully, after which the mould is pulled off.
+
+If the syrup gets cold, it hardens, and cannot be used; in that state,
+add a little water and put it back on the fire, but it is difficult to
+rewarm it; generally it colors and is unfit. When that happens, make
+burnt sugar with it, or a _nougat_. It is better and safer to make a
+little of it, just what can be used before it gets cold, and if not
+enough, make some a second and even a third time. While the sugar is
+hot, and while you are dipping the fruit in it, be careful not to touch
+it, as it burns badly. In glazing the fruit first, some syrup falls in
+taking it from the pan to the stick; place your marble board, greased
+with oil, under, so that you can pick it without any trouble and use it.
+
+_Chestnuts, glazed._--Roast the chestnuts, skin them well, then hook,
+dip, and hook again on the stick as directed for pieces of oranges. A
+pyramid also may be made, and a sightly one it makes.
+
+_Cherries._--They must be picked with their stems, and by which you tie
+two together with a piece of twine. See that they are clean and dry, and
+have two sticks instead of one, placed parallel, about two inches apart,
+in order to prevent the two cherries from touching, when hung, as they
+would immediately adhere. Proceed for the rest as described for oranges.
+
+_Pears._--Small, ripe pears are excellent glazed; peel them, but leave
+the stem on, and then proceed as with cherries in every particular.
+
+_Strawberries or any other Berries._--The berries must be picked with
+the stem. Wash them in cold water, drain, dry, or wipe carefully, and
+then proceed as for cherries in every particular. A more delicate dish
+than strawberries or raspberries glazed cannot be made.
+
+_Grapes._--When clean, proceed as described for cherries.
+
+_Plums._--Take plums, well ripened and with the stems on, and proceed as
+with cherries.
+
+_Prunes._--Soak the prunes in tepid water, and when dry, hook them like
+carpels of orange, and finish in the same manner.
+
+_Currants._--When clean and dry, tie two clusters together, and proceed
+as for cherries.
+
+_Pine-Apple._--Cut pine-apple in dice, and proceed as described for
+carpels of orange.
+
+_Iced Fruit._--As a general rule, the more watery the fruit the more
+reduced the syrup of sugar must be. If it is not reduced enough, small
+pieces of ice, formed by the water of the fruit, will be found while
+eating it. The fruit must be ripe. It is done also with preserved fruit.
+It is impossible to tell exactly the degree or state of the fruit and
+syrup without a hydrometer.
+
+The following _preparation_ may be added to the fruit, or to _punch_, as
+soon as it begins to freeze; it is not indispensable, but gives it more
+body: Put one pound of loaf-sugar in a copper pan with two gills of cold
+water, set on the fire, stir now and then till it comes to a boil, then
+boil till it is at the fifth state or 43°, and take off. Beat four
+whites of eggs to a stiff froth, flavor with essence of vanilla, and
+turn the sugar into the eggs, little by little, but do not stop beating
+until the whole is in. Then move the mixture gently round with a spoon
+for about a minute, and it is ready for use.
+
+_With Peaches, Apricots, or Plums._--The following proportions are for
+one pint of juice. Peel and stone the fruit carefully, then mash it
+through a sieve into a bowl. Make one pint of syrup of sugar at 32°, and
+when cold turn it into the bowl and mix it with the pint of juice, add
+the juice of a rather large orange and a little of the rind grated, mix
+again, freeze as directed for ice-cream, and serve.
+
+_With Currants, Lemons, Oranges, Pears, Pine-Apples, Strawberries, and
+other Berries._--Proceed as for peaches in every particular, except that
+you press the juice of the currants and berries through a towel instead
+of mashing them through a sieve, and that you use the syrup at 44° for
+them also; the others are peeled and cored or seeded.
+
+_With Melons._--Proceed as for peaches, except that you add to the
+mixture a little _kirschwasser_.
+
+_With Preserved Fruit._--Use the syrup at 30°, and proceed as for
+peaches in every other particular.
+
+_Iced Coffee._--Make strong coffee, and when cold mix it with the same
+volume of thick cream, sweeten to taste, freeze, and serve.
+
+_Iced Chocolate._--Break in pieces about four ounces of chocolate, and
+set it on a slow fire in a tin pan, with two tablespoonfuls of water;
+when melted take it from the fire, add a gill of warm water, and work it
+with a spoon for five minutes; then mix it with the same volume of syrup
+of sugar at 30°, freeze and serve. The syrup is used when cold.
+
+_Iced Tea_ is made as iced coffee.
+
+_Sweet Jellies--Wine Jelly._--Soak two ounces of gelatin in a gill of
+cold water for about half an hour. Put in a block-tin saucepan three
+eggs and shells, three ounces of sugar, one quart of cold water; beat a
+little with an egg-beater to break the eggs, and mix the whole together;
+add also a few drops of burnt sugar, same of essence, rum, according to
+taste, from half a gill to half a pint, then the gelatin and water in
+which it is; set on a good fire, stirring slowly with an egg-beater, and
+stopping once in a while to see if it comes to a boil, when, stop
+stirring, keep boiling very slowly for two or three minutes, and turn
+into the jelly-bag, which you do as soon as clear; the process requires
+from two to three minutes. While it is boiling take a few drops with a
+spoon, and you will easily see when it is clear. Pass it through the bag
+three or four times, turn into a mould, put on ice, and when firm, put a
+dish on it, turn upside down, remove the mould, and serve.
+
+_Jelly Macédoine._--Make the same jelly as above, and pass it through
+the bag also; put some in a mould, say a thickness of half an inch, have
+the mould on ice; then, as soon as it is firm, place some fruit on that
+layer and according to fancy; and, with a tin ladle, pour more jelly
+into the mould, but carefully and slowly, in order not to upset the
+fruit you have in; continue pouring till you have a thickness of about
+half an inch on the fruit. Repeat this as many times as you please, and
+till the mould is full; vary the fruit at each layer, and especially the
+color of the different kinds. The color of the jelly may also be changed
+at every layer, by mixing in it more burnt sugar, some carmine or
+cochineal, some green spinach, a little in one layer and more in
+another. Any kind of ripe fruit can be used: strawberries, raspberries,
+stoned cherries, grapes, apples cut in fancy shapes; also peaches,
+bananas, etc.
+
+_Cold Wine-Jelly._--Put two ounces of gelatin in a bowl with a piece of
+cinnamon and a pint of cold water, and let stand about an hour. Then
+pour over about a quart of boiling water, and let stand about four
+minutes. After that, add two pounds of sugar, the juice of three lemons,
+a pint of sherry wine, and half a gill of brandy. Stir to dissolve the
+sugar, and turn the mixture into a mould through a strainer; place on
+ice, and serve as the above jellies.
+
+_Soufflés._--Put in a bowl four tablespoonfuls of potato-starch with
+three yolks of eggs, one ounce of butter, and a few drops of essence to
+flavor. Turn into it, little by little, stirring the while, about three
+gills of milk; set on the fire, stir continually, and take off at the
+first boiling. Stir continually but slowly. As soon as cold, beat three
+yolks of eggs with a tablespoonful of cold water, and mix them with the
+rest. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them also
+gently and slowly. Butter a mould well, fill it about two-thirds full,
+and bake in a warm but not quick oven (about 300° Fahr.). Besides being
+flavored with essence, _soufflés_ may be flavored with coffee, lemon,
+orange, etc., according to taste. Generally, _soufflés_ are served under
+the name of the object used to flavor them, such as _soufflé au café_
+(_soufflé_ flavored with strong coffee), etc. They are all made in the
+same way as the above one, with the exception that they are flavored
+with strong coffee as above, and used instead of essence, or strong tea,
+chocolate, etc., or with a little jelly of different fruit, or with
+roasted chestnuts well pounded, instead of potato-starch, etc.
+
+A hundred different kinds of _soufflés_ can be easily made by following
+the above directions.
+
+_Apples, fried._--Peel and cut in small dice, dropping them in cold
+water till the whole is ready. Then fry with a little butter till about
+half cooked, when add a little water and sugar to taste; finish the
+cooking, take from the fire; beat a yolk of egg with a teaspoonful of
+cold water and mix it with the apples; serve warm. Proceed in the same
+way with _pears_.
+
+_Peaches baked._--Cut peaches in two, remove the stone, and with a
+paste-cutter cut some slices of bread, and place them in a buttered
+bakepan with half of a peach on each, the skin downward; dust well with
+sugar, put a piece of butter the size of a kidney-bean on each, place in
+a rather slow oven; dish when cooked, turn the juice over, if any; if
+none, a little syrup of pears, and serve warm.
+
+Do the same with _apricots_, _plums_, and slices of _pine-apples_. The
+slices of pine-apples may be soaked in _kirschwasser_ for twenty-four
+hours before using them.
+
+_Prunes, stewed._--Wash them in cold water if necessary. Soak them in
+tepid water for about two hours, and set the whole on the fire; boil
+gently till half done, when add sugar to taste, a gill of claret wine to
+half a pound of prunes, and serve either warm or cold when done. If the
+water boils away too much, add more.
+
+_Currants, Blackberries, or other Fruit, for Dessert._--Beat well the
+white of an egg with a little water; dip the fruit in, and roll it
+immediately in some fine-crushed sugar; place it on a dish, and leave it
+thus five or six hours, and serve.
+
+A more sightly and exquisite plate of dessert than a plate of currants
+dressed thus, cannot be had.
+
+Besides all our receipts, any kind of fruit may be served for dessert,
+according to the season; also any kind of cheese; also fruits preserved
+in liquor.
+
+_Berries with Milk or Cream._--Nearly every kind of berries, when clean,
+may be served with milk or cream, and sugar to taste.
+
+_With Liquor._--They may also be served with brandy, rum,
+_kirschwasser_, whiskey, etc., and sugar.
+
+_Marmalades, or Preserves of Fruits--Of Apricots or Peaches._--Boil two
+pounds of peaches for a minute, take off and drop them immediately in
+cold water. Drain and skin immediately, cut in two and remove the stone.
+Crack two-thirds of the stones and throw the kernels in boiling water;
+leave them in till the skin comes off easily; skin them well and cut
+them in small pieces, lengthwise. Lay the peaches in a pan, with about a
+pound and a half of sugar, set on the fire, boil about twenty minutes,
+stirring the while with a wooden spoon; a few minutes before taking from
+the fire, put also the kernels in the pan; then turn in pots or jars as
+soon as off the fire. Cover well when cold, and keep in a dry and cool
+(but not cold) closet.
+
+_Of Plums._--Proceed as for the above.
+
+_Of Pears and Quinces._--Quarter, peel, and core the fruit, put it in a
+pan, and proceed for the rest as directed for peaches, except that you
+use sweet almonds instead of kernels.
+
+_Of Blackberries, Cherries, Currants, Raspberries, and other like
+Berries._--Wash the fruit in cold water, drain, dry, and mash it through
+a sieve placed over a saucepan; when the juice and pulp are in the pan
+add the same weight of loaf-sugar as that of juice, which is easily
+ascertained by weighing the pan first; set on the fire, skim it
+carefully; it takes about half an hour to cook; then put in pots and let
+cool; cut a piece of white paper the size of the inside of the pot, dip
+it in brandy, put it over the fruit, cover the pots, and place them in a
+dry and cool closet.
+
+_Of Grapes._--Select well-ripened grapes and pick the berries. Put them
+in a thick towel, and press the juice out, which you put in a copper or
+brass saucepan, set on a good fire, and boil till about half reduced.
+Skim off the scum, and stir now and then while it is on the fire. Then
+add about half a pound of loaf-sugar to a pound of juice, boil again
+fifteen or twenty minutes, take off, put in pots or jars, cover or cork
+well when cold, and put away in a dark and cool closet.
+
+_Candied or Comfited Fruit._--The best state of the fruit to be candied
+is just when commencing to ripen or a little before. It must be picked
+in dry weather, and be sound; the least stain is enough to spoil it soon
+after it is preserved.
+
+_Peaches._--Make a cut on the side of the fruit and remove the stone
+without bruising it; then skin it carefully and drop it in a pan of cold
+water. When they are all in, set on the fire, boil gently till they
+float. There must be much more water than is necessary to cover them, in
+order to see easily when they come to the surface. Then take them off
+carefully, with a skimmer, and drop them in cold water and drain. When
+drained, put them in a pan, cover them with syrup of sugar after it is
+skimmed and clarified. (_See_ Syrup of Sugar.) The syrup must be boiling
+when turned over the fruit. Set on the fire, give one boil only, and
+turn the whole into a bowl, which you cover with paper, and leave thus
+twelve or fifteen hours. After that time, drain, put the syrup on the
+fire, the peaches in the bowl, and at the first boiling of the syrup,
+turn it over the fruit, cover the bowl with paper, and leave about as
+long, that is, twelve or fifteen hours.
+
+Repeat the same process three times more, in all five times. The last
+time the syrup must be at the first state as described for syrup of
+sugar. Inexperienced persons will do well to try at first with a few
+fruits, and go through the whole process, after which it will be
+comparatively easy.
+
+Every one is awkward in doing a thing for the first time, and does not
+do it well, however easy or simple it may be. That is the reason why
+societies of farmers make better preserves than other people; they
+teach one another; and besides, no one is allowed to touch the fruit
+before having seen it done several times.
+
+Candied fruit, as well as preserves, get spoiled by fermentation, if not
+cooked enough; by moisture, if kept in a damp place; or by heat, if kept
+in a warm place.
+
+When the last process has been gone through, leave the fruit in the bowl
+about twenty-four hours; then put it in jars, cover air-tight, and put
+away in a dry and cool closet. It may also be drained, dried on a riddle
+in a warm place, and kept in boxes. A wooden riddle or screen is better
+than a metal one. They may also be put in decanters, covered with brandy
+or other liquor, and corked well. When preserved in brandy, it is not
+necessary to remove the stone; they may be covered with half syrup and
+half brandy.
+
+_Plums._--Pick them just before commencing to ripen, and cut the stem
+half way. When clean, but neither stoned nor skinned, prick them around
+the stem with a fork, drop them in cold water, set on the fire, add a
+gill of vinegar to three quarts of water, and take from the fire as soon
+as they float. Drain, put them in a bowl, pour boiling syrup of sugar
+over them, and proceed as directed for peaches, that is, cover and pour
+the syrup on them five times in all. They are kept like peaches also,
+either in jars, dried, or in brandy.
+
+_Pears._--After being peeled and the stem cut off half way, they may be
+preserved whole or in quarters. In peeling them, they must be dropped in
+cold water with a little lemon-juice to keep them white. They are picked
+just before commencing to ripen. When ready, put cold water and the
+juice of a lemon to every two quarts in a deep pan, and drop the pears
+in, set on the fire and boil gently till well done; take off, drain and
+drop in cold water, which you change two or three times and without
+stopping; then drain again, place them in a large bowl, and then proceed
+as for peaches. They are kept like peaches also.
+
+_Apples._--Proceed as for pears, except that apples are cooked much
+quicker.
+
+_Pine-Apples._--Peel, slice, and drop the fruit in cold water; add a
+little sugar, set on the fire and boil gently till done, when drain and
+drop in cold water and drain again. Put them in a bowl, and proceed as
+for peaches for the rest, with the exception that they are kept in jars
+only, and not dried or put in brandy.
+
+_Chestnuts._--Skin the chestnuts and put them in cold water on the fire,
+and take off when tender; then remove the under skin or white envelope
+or pith. Place them in a bowl, and proceed as for peaches for the rest.
+
+_Oranges._--Drop oranges in boiling water and take off when the rind is
+tender, and when a darning-needle can be run through it easily. Drain
+and drop them in cold water. After two or three hours drain, cut in
+slices, and put them in a bowl; then proceed as for peaches, except that
+they are kept in jars only.
+
+_Quinces._--Peel, quarter, and core quinces just before they commence
+ripening, drop in boiling water; drain them when done, and drop them
+immediately in cold water. As soon as cold, take them off, drain and put
+them in a bowl. For the rest, proceed as for peaches, with the exception
+that they are only kept in jars, but neither dried nor put in brandy.
+
+To Preserve in Brandy.--Besides the dried fruits above described,
+several may be preserved in brandy, without being cooked and soaked in
+syrup of sugar.
+
+_Cherries._--Pick them when fully ripe, see that they are clean, and put
+them in decanters with cloves, pieces of cinnamon, and entirely covered
+with brandy; cover well, but do not cork, and leave thus two weeks, at
+the end of which, place a colander over a vessel and empty the decanters
+into it; pass the liquor through a jelly-bag, mix it with some syrup of
+sugar at the second degree, turn over the fruit which you cover with it,
+and cork the decanters well when perfectly cold. Keep in a dark, cool,
+and dry place.
+
+Do the same with strawberries and other like fruit.
+
+_Fruit Jellies--With Apples or Quinces._--Peel, core, and cut in small
+pieces two quarts of good apples or quinces, lay them in a stewpan with
+a clove well pounded, and the juice of half a lemon; cover with water,
+set on a moderate fire, and boil slowly till well cooked. Turn into a
+jelly-bag, or a thick towel under which you place a vessel to receive
+the juice, and when it is all out, put it in a stewpan with
+three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of juice; boil to a
+jelly.
+
+As soon as done put it in pots or jars, let cool, cut a piece of white
+paper the size of the inside of the pot, dip it in brandy, put it over
+the jelly, cover the pot well, and place in a dry, cool closet, but not
+too cold. What remains in the bag may be used to make a _compote_. Watch
+the process carefully, skimmer in hand, to skim off the scum, and stir
+now and then, lest it should burn.
+
+_With Apricots, Peaches, Plums, etc._--After having taken the stones
+out, cut them in four pieces, and proceed as for apple-jelly above in
+every other particular.
+
+_With Blackberries, Currants, Grapes, Raspberries, or other like
+Berries._--Put the well-ripened berries in a coarse towel and squeeze
+all the juice out of them, which you put into a stewpan with as many
+pounds of loaf-sugar as there are of juice, and finish as directed for
+apple-jelly. A little rum or essence of rose, or any other, according to
+taste, may be added just before taking from the fire.
+
+_Punch._--Put a saltspoonful of black tea in a crockery pot, with one
+clove, a little cinnamon, and the rind of a lemon cut in pieces; pour on
+the whole half a pint of boiling water; let it remain thus five minutes,
+and strain. Put a bottle of rum or brandy in a crockery vessel, with
+twelve ounces of loaf-sugar, set the rum or brandy on fire, and let burn
+till it stops. Then mix tea and rum together, and it is ready for use.
+It is drunk cold or warm, according to taste. When wanted warm, if made
+previously, set it on a moderate fire, in a tin or crockery kettle.
+
+It keeps very well if carefully bottled and corked when cold.
+
+Another way to make it is to mix the rum or brandy with the tea without
+burning it. It is warmed, used, and kept like the above. The quantity of
+water may be reduced or augmented, according to taste, and so also the
+sugar.
+
+_Another._--Grate the rind of a lemon and of two oranges on a piece of
+sugar, the yellow part only, and put it in a bowl with cold water to
+dissolve it; then add two gills of pine-apple syrup, essence of vanilla,
+a pint of claret wine, a pint of Catawba, Sauterne, or Rhine wine, a
+pint of Champagne, and a gill of brandy; sweeten to taste; strain, put
+on ice for some time, and serve.
+
+_Another._--Put a pound of sugar in a bowl with a gill of water to
+dissolve it; then add the juice of three oranges, a little rind grated,
+a bottle of Champagne and one of Catawba or Sauterne wine; strain, place
+on ice for some time, and serve cold.
+
+_Roman Punch._--Make iced lemon with one quart of juice, same of syrup
+as directed, then mix with it the juice of four oranges, some lemon and
+orange rind grated, and about three gills of rum (or according to
+taste); also, if liked, the preparation used for iced fruit. Then put
+the mixture in the freezer, stir while freezing, and serve. It must not
+be frozen hard, as it is better when served rather liquid and frothy. It
+may be made with any other liquor, if preferred.
+
+Punch is served either after the _entrées_ or after the _relevés_ of
+fish, according to taste.
+
+
+
+
+  PASTRY.
+
+
+Of all the branches of the science and art of cooking, pastry, if not
+the most difficult, requires the greatest care. An inferior piece of
+meat makes an inferior dish, but still it can be eaten without danger:
+but inferior pastry can hardly be eaten; or, if eaten, it is
+indigestible. We will recommend our readers to be very careful about
+proportions; it would not make a great difference for some kinds, but
+for others, putting too much or too little of one or more things would
+certainly result in failure. It is very important to have good
+materials. New flour is very inferior for pastry; it must have been
+ground for at least three months. Always keep it in bags, and in a dry
+and well-ventilated place. Sift before using it. Use fresh eggs, good
+butter, and good pulverized sugar.
+
+The most important of all is the oven, for, supposing that you have used
+good materials, have mixed them well, if not properly baked, every thing
+is lost, materials and labor. Supposing that you have a good oven, there
+is still a difficulty--and if the last, not the least--the degree of
+heat. Some require a quick oven, as puff-paste, _choux_, etc.; others a
+warm one, and others a slow oven, as _meringues_ biscuits, etc. By
+putting the hand in the oven you can tell if it is properly heated, but
+it requires experience, and even practitioners are often mistaken;
+therefore, the easiest way is to have a thermometer in the oven. It may
+be placed in the oven of every stove or range; it is only necessary to
+bore a hole on the top of the range or stove, reaching the oven, and
+have a thermometer with the bulb inclosed in a brass sheath, perforated,
+long enough to reach the oven, and of the size of the hole bored--the
+glass tube being above the top of the range.
+
+_Pastes._--There are several kinds of paste. Puff-paste is the most
+important; it can be made very rich, rich, and less so; and several
+hundred different cakes can be made with it. Small cakes are called
+_petits fours_.
+
+The next in importance is the _pâte-à-choux_; then the paste for
+meat-pies, sometimes called _pâte brisée_.
+
+Puff-paste requires care, but is easily made; _pâte-à-choux_ must be
+well worked.
+
+_Puff-paste._--To make good puff-paste, good flour and butter, free from
+salt or sour milk, are indispensable. It must be made in a cool place.
+Take half a pound of good butter and knead it well in a bowl of cold
+water; if fresh and not salt, the kneading will take the sour milk out
+of it; if salty, it will remove the salt, then put it in another bowl of
+cold water and leave it till it is perfectly firm, and then use. When
+the butter is ready, put half a pound of flour on the paste-board or
+marble, make a hole in it, in which you put a pinch of salt, and cold
+water enough to make a rather stiff dough. It requires about half a pint
+of water, knead well, make a kind of ball with the dough, and put it on
+a corner of your marble or paste-board. Take the butter from the water
+and knead it on the board, to press all the water out of it. Give it the
+shape of a large sausage; dredge the board slightly with flour, roll the
+butter over only once, as it must take very little of it, dredge both
+ends of the piece of butter with flour also, then by putting one end on
+the board and pressing on the other end with your hands, you will
+flatten it of a rather round shape, and till of about half an inch in
+thickness. Put it thus on the corner of the board also. Immediately
+after having prepared the butter, take the dough and roll it down, of a
+round form also, and till large enough to envelop the butter in it
+easily. Remember that during the whole operation of folding and rolling
+the paste down, you must dust the marble or paste-board with flour, very
+slightly and often; do the same on the top of the paste. It is done in
+order to prevent the paste from adhering to the board or to the
+rolling-pin. It must be dusted slightly, so that the paste cannot absorb
+much of it, as it would make it tough. Have a slab of marble or slate;
+it is much easier than wood, and cooler.
+
+When the dough is spread, place the butter right on the middle of it.
+Turn one side of the dough over the butter, covering it a little more
+than half way; do the game with the opposite side, the dough lapping
+over that of the first side turned; do the same with the side toward
+you, and also with the side opposite. Dough stretching easily when
+pulled, and contracting easily when let loose after having pulled it,
+you have now still four corners of the dough to bring over the butter
+and in the same way as above, and by doing which, you give to the whole
+a somewhat round form, and also have the butter perfectly enveloped in
+the dough. Place the rolling-pin on the middle of the paste,
+horizontally, and press gently on it so as to make a furrow; do the same
+from place to place, on the whole surface, making furrows about an inch
+apart. Repeat the process again, this time placing the rolling-pin right
+on the top of each elevated line; and again, repeat it a third time,
+also placing the pin on each elevated line. Now do exactly the same
+contrariwise. Then, roll the paste down, gently, evenly, to a thickness
+of about one fourth of an inch, and of a rectangular shape. Fold it in
+three by turning over one-third of its length toward the other end, and
+thus covering another third of it; fold or turn over the remaining
+third, so as to cover the first third turned over. Roll it down again of
+about the same thickness as above, but without making furrows in it;
+give it also the same rectangular shape, taking care to make the length
+of what was the width, _i. e._ extending it the longer way in an
+opposite direction to that of the first time, so that the ends will be
+what the sides were. Fold in three as before, put it on a plate and set
+in a refrigerator for from ten to twenty minutes. Take hold of it again,
+roll down as above, fold in the same way also, and put away for ten
+minutes. You roll down and fold from four to six times, not counting the
+time you envelop the butter in the dough. In cold weather, and when the
+butter is firm, fold and roll only four times; but in rather warm
+weather, fold and roll six times. If it is too warm, it is of no use to
+try with butter.
+
+Puff-paste may be made without stopping; that is, without putting it
+away in a cool place for some time; but it is better to let it rest; it
+is lighter and rises better. When finished, it can be used immediately;
+but it is better also to put it in a plate or dish, cover it with a
+towel, and put it in a refrigerator for from twelve to twenty-four
+hours. Although it must be kept in a cool place, do not put it near
+enough to the ice to freeze. It may be kept thus for two or three days.
+
+_Puff-paste with Beef-Suet_.--Take half a pound of fresh beef suet, the
+nearest the kidney the best; break it in small pieces with the hands,
+at the same time removing the thin skin and fibres as much as possible;
+put it in a bowl of cold water and knead well till it is rather soft;
+take it off, mash and bruise it well on the paste-board with a
+rolling-pin; knead it again like butter; roll it in flour like butter
+also, and proceed as above for the rest, and with the same proportion,
+weight for weight of flour and beef-suet, but it requires more salt.
+Beef-suet being more firm than butter, puff-paste can be made with it
+during summer, but it must be eaten immediately, being very inferior
+after a while.
+
+The proportion of butter and flour may be varied. Weight for weight
+makes the real puff-paste, and very rich. If less butter is used it will
+not rise as much, but is excellent nevertheless, and is more handy to
+make different cakes, such as short-cakes with fruit. Therefore
+puff-paste may be made with the following proportions: to one pound of
+flour, use fourteen, twelve, ten, eight, or even four ounces of butter
+or suet. Another way is to mix one or two eggs in the flour, water, and
+salt before rolling it down. When eggs are used, it requires less water.
+Envelop the butter in it in the same way.
+
+_Allumettes._--Cut strips of puff-paste of any length, about three
+inches wide and about one-fifth of an inch in thickness; mix well
+together, and for about three or four minutes, one ounce of sugar and
+about half the white of an egg; spread this mixture over the strips of
+paste, so as to have a rather thin coat of it; then cut the paste
+across, so as to make small strips about one inch broad and three inches
+long. Bake in an oven at about 400 deg. Fahr.
+
+_Feuillettés._--Roll puff-paste down to a thickness of from one-eighth
+to one-half of an inch in thickness; cut it in pieces of any size and
+shape, according to fancy with a knife or with a paste-cutter; glaze the
+top only with egg, and bake in an oven at about 450 deg. Fahr.
+
+_Feuillettés à la Condé._--Roll and cut the paste exactly as for the
+above; then, instead of baking it, fry it in hot fat (_see_ Frying);
+turn into a colander when fried, dust with sugar, and serve as warm as
+possible.
+
+_Pommées._--Line the bottom of a bakepan with puff-paste, about
+one-eighth of an inch in thickness; spread stewed apples over it of a
+thickness of one-quarter of an inch; cover these with another thickness
+of puff-paste; prick the cover all over with the point of a knife, and
+bake in an oven at about 400 deg. Fahr. When baked, cut it in square
+pieces, dust with sugar, and serve hot or cold, according to taste.
+
+_Porte-manteaux._--Cut strips of puff-paste of any length, about three
+inches broad, and one-eighth of an inch in thickness; spread on the
+middle of the strips, and lengthwise, some frangipane, or stewed apples,
+or any kind of sweetmeats, of the size of the finger. Then turn one side
+of the paste over the frangipane or sweetmeats, glaze the border with
+egg (we mean by "the border," about half an inch in width, measuring
+from the edge); then turn the other side over it so that the glazing
+will cause the two pastes to stick together. Thus it will be only a
+little over an inch broad and about half an inch thick. Cut the strips
+across in small pieces about two inches long, glaze the top with egg,
+and then bake in an oven at 400 deg. Fahr.
+
+_Tartelettes._--Roll some puff-paste down to a thickness of about
+one-sixteenth of an inch; cut it, with a paste-cutter, of the size of
+small tin moulds, and place the pieces in the moulds; put about a
+teaspoonful of frangipane in each; place two narrow strips of paste
+across each, which strips you cut with a truckle; bake in an oven at
+about 380 deg. Fahr.
+
+_Tartelettes (sweet)._--Proceed as for the above in every particular,
+except that you use any kind of sweetmeats or jelly instead of
+frangipane.
+
+_Cake Pithiviers._--Roll some puff-paste down to a thickness of about
+one-eighth of an inch; cut it round and place on a baking-pan; if the
+pan be square or rectangular, cut a round piece that will go in easily;
+cut a strip of paste about one inch broad, glaze with egg the border of
+the paste in the pan, place the strip all around, and then glaze it
+also. Fill the middle with the following mixture: pound four ounces of
+sweet almonds and mix them well with half a pound of sugar, two ounces
+of butter, four yolks of eggs, essence to flavor, and four macaroons
+chopped. Cut another piece of puff-paste round, and of the same size as
+the other; dust it slightly with flour, fold it gently in four; the
+piece then will have two straight sides and a circular one. With a sharp
+knife make three cuts in each of the two straight sides through the four
+thicknesses of the paste, and about half an inch in length. Make another
+cut through the paste also, representing half of the figure 8, right in
+the middle of the piece of paste, commencing half an inch from the
+border of the circular side and in the middle of it, and going toward
+the point, so that when the paste is open there are sixteen cuts in it.
+Place the paste still folded on the paste and mixture in the pan, the
+circular side on the border and the point right in the middle; open it
+gently, and the whole will be covered. Glaze with egg, and put in an
+oven at from 430 to 460 deg. Fahr. The same cake may be filled with a
+frangipane, and prepared as the above for the rest.
+
+_Rissoles (also called Fourrés)._--Cut round pieces of puff-paste about
+three inches in diameter; wet the edge with water, put a teaspoonful of
+compote or any kind of sweetmeat on one side of it, then fold the paste
+in two, so as to cover the sweetmeat; pinch the paste around to cause it
+to adhere, in order to envelop the sweetmeat; you have then a cake of a
+semicircular shape. Glaze with egg, bake in a quick oven, dust with
+sugar, and serve.
+
+_Galette du Gymnase._--Make puff-paste with half a pound of butter to a
+pound of flour, and when done as directed, knead it. Then roll it down
+to the thickness of about one-fourth of an inch, cut it in strips of any
+length and about an inch and a half wide, glaze with egg, bake in a
+quick oven, about 420 deg. Fahr. The two ends of the strips may be
+brought together and joined, forming a crown. The same _galette_ is made
+with trimmings of puff-paste, kneaded and rolled as above.
+
+_Fanchonnettes._--These are made with the same puff-paste as the
+_galette_ above; then cut it in round pieces, place them on small
+moulds, fill them with any kind of sweetmeats and frangipane, with
+almonds, half of each; bake, dust with sugar, and serve. Instead of
+frangipane, spread raisins over the sweetmeats, or almonds, peanuts,
+hazel-nuts, etc., all cut in small strips, lengthwise; you make then an
+infinite number of different small cakes.
+
+_Fans._--Make some puff-paste with equal weight of flour and butter,
+fold and roll it down six times, and put in a cold place. Leave it of a
+thickness of about one-quarter of an inch; cut it with a sharp knife in
+pieces of a rectangular shape, about four inches long and two broad,
+which cut again in two, across and from one corner to the other, so that
+you make two pieces of a right-angled triangle shape. Place the pieces
+on their sides in a bake-pan, on their sides, far apart, and bake in a
+very quick oven. When done, dust with sugar, and serve.
+
+_Vol-au-vent_ and _bouchées_ for the day's use are baked early in the
+morning. They are warmed in a slow oven just before filling them.
+
+_Vol-au-vent._--A _vol-au-vent_ is made with puff-paste and filled with
+oysters, meat, etc., when baked; that is, when the cake is baked and
+emptied, it is warmed in the oven, filled, and served warm. It is made
+of an oval or round shape. When made small it is generally of a round
+shape, but when made rather large it is generally of an oval shape. When
+the puff-paste is ready to be used, roll down to any thickness from
+one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch; cut it with a sharp-pointed
+knife of the size and shape you wish, then with the same knife cut what
+is called the cover, _i. e._, make a cut all around, about half an inch
+from the edge or border, and about one-third through the paste, leaving
+two-thirds of the thickness of the paste uncut. This operation is called
+marking out the cover. Glaze the top of the paste with egg, and bake it
+in a very quick oven, about 500 deg. Fahr. In glazing, be careful not to
+glaze the sides or allow any egg to run on the sides; it would prevent
+the paste from rising. Some drawings may be made on the cover with the
+back of a knife, according to fancy: leaves, for instance, are very
+easily imitated; it is only necessary to run the knife on the paste,
+without cutting it. When in the oven, do not look at it for at least
+seven or eight minutes, for in opening the door of the oven it might
+cause the paste to fall and even after that time open and shut the door
+quickly; take off when properly baked. When the oven is hot enough it
+takes about twelve minutes, and even less time when the _vol-au-vent_ is
+small. Take from the oven when baked, and immediately run the point of
+the knife all around and in the same place as you did before being
+baked, which place is well marked. Thus you cut off the cover and remove
+it, then remove also all the unbaked paste that is inside of the
+_vol-au-vent_, so that you have left what may be called a shell. Keep it
+then till the oysters or meat are ready to put in it. About five minutes
+before the filling is ready, put the shell or baked paste in a slow oven
+to warm it, turn the filling into it, enough to fill it entirely; place
+the cover on the top, and serve warm. The unbaked paste removed from the
+inside is baked, and makes an excellent cake, though not a sightly one.
+
+_Another._--Cut a piece of puff-paste the same as for the above one,
+that is, either round or oval, and of the size you wish. Instead of
+marking a cover, glaze the border with egg. It is understood here by
+"the border," a space about three-quarters of an inch broad and all
+around it, the space being measured from the edge toward the centre.
+Then cut a strip of puff-paste about three-quarters of an inch broad,
+long enough to cover the place or space glazed, which strip you put all
+around the first paste, and you then have a border. The place between
+the two pastes being glazed, they will adhere in baking. Then also glaze
+the upper side of the border carefully with egg. With a knife or fork,
+prick the paste, inside of the border only, in ten, fifteen, or twenty
+places, according to the size of the _vol-au-vent_, and in order to
+prevent that part from rising as much as it would if not pricked. Bake
+in the same oven as the above--a very quick one.
+
+A _vol-au-vent_ thus made is deeper than the first one, having two
+thicknesses of paste. Generally there is little or no paste (unbaked) to
+remove; having pricked the centre, it prevents it from rising and bakes
+it evenly, but if there is any, remove it. A cover may be made by
+cutting a piece of puff-paste of the size of the _vol-au-vent_ and
+baking it separately. It may be decorated with the back of the knife as
+the above one, and made convex on the top by baking it on a piece of
+tin. It is warmed, filled, and served the same as the above.
+
+A _vol-au-vent_ is filled with the following:
+
+_With Oysters._--The quantity is according to the size of the
+_vol-au-vent_. Blanch one quart of oysters. Put two ounces of butter in
+a saucepan, set it on the fire, and when melted add a tablespoonful of
+flour; stir, and when turning rather yellow add also about a pint of
+milk, and the liquor from the oysters; stir, and as soon as it turns
+rather thick put the oysters in, taking care to have them free from
+pieces of the shell. Give one boil, add salt to taste, two yolks of
+eggs, stir again, turn into the warm paste, place the cover on, and
+serve warm.
+
+_With Lobster._--Prepare the lobster as for _bouchées_, fill the shell
+with it, and serve warm.
+
+_With Cod-fish._--Prepare fresh cod-fish _à la Béchamel_, fill the
+_vol-au-vent_ or shell with it, and serve warm.
+
+_With Turbot._--Proceed as for cod-fish in every particular.
+
+_With Eels._--Fill the _vol-au-vent_ with eels, oyster sauce, or in
+_poulette_, and serve warm.
+
+_With Chicken._--Fill with a chicken or part of a chicken in _fricassée_
+or _sauté_.
+
+_With Livers and Combs of Chicken._--Prepare combs and livers of chicken
+in _fricassée_, the same as a chicken, fill the _vol-au-vent_ with them.
+Serve hot.
+
+_With Sweetbreads._--Cook the sweetbreads as directed, and fill the
+_vol-au-vent_ with them. Serve warm.
+
+_With Veal._--Fill the _vol-au-vent_ with veal in _blanquette_, in
+_ragout_, or in _bourgeoise_, and serve. It is generally filled with
+what has been left the day previous, as it requires very little for a
+_vol-au-vent_.
+
+_With Brains._--It may be filled with brains of calf, pig, sheep, or
+veal; prepared in _poulette_, or stewed.
+
+_With Rabbit._--Fill it with part of a rabbit _sauté_.
+
+It may also be filled with any other _meat_ or _fish_, according to
+taste, and being cooked previously.
+
+_With Fruits._--Fill the _vol-au-vent_ with any kind of stewed fruit,
+jelly, sweetmeats, etc. It may be only filled, or the fruit may be
+dressed in pyramid inside of it.
+
+_Bouchées._--_Bouchées_, or _petites bouchées_, as they are sometimes
+called, are small, round _vol-au-vent_, served warm. They are also
+called _bouchées de dames_ and _petites bouchées_. Roll puff-paste down
+to a thickness of about one-quarter of an inch, cut it with a
+paste-cutter of any size, mark the cover, and bake in an oven at about
+450° Fahr. A good size is about three inches in diameter. When cut, take
+another paste-cutter about two inches in diameter, place it on the piece
+of paste; press on it just enough to mark the place where it was, but
+not enough to cut the paste, remove it and then the cover is marked;
+that is, you have a circle on the top of the paste, half an inch from
+the edge all around. Glaze with egg and bake. Make one for each person.
+Immediately on taking them from the oven, cut off the cover with a
+sharp-pointed knife. That is easily done; it is only necessary to follow
+the mark made with the paste-cutter, which is just as visible as before
+baking. Remove the cover and then carefully take out some unbaked paste
+inside of the _bouchée_, fill with lobster prepared as directed below,
+put the cover on, and serve as warm as possible.
+
+_The Filling._--Cut some flesh of boiled lobster in dice. Put two ounces
+of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire; when melted, add a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir for about one minute, and add also broth
+(the quantity must be according to the number of _bouchées_, but we will
+give here the quantity necessary for five or six _bouchées_), about
+three gills, also salt, pepper, then the cut lobster; stir now and then
+for five or six minutes, and use.
+
+_Of Oysters._--Prepare, fill and serve exactly as the above, except that
+you fill with oysters prepared as for _vol-au-vent_, instead of filling
+with lobster.
+
+_Of Cod-fish._--Fill the _bouchées_ with cod-fish, prepared _à la
+Béchamel_, and serve warm.
+
+_Of Eels._--Have some eels prepared either in _poulette_ or
+oyster-sauce, fill the _bouchées_, and serve warm.
+
+_Of Turbot._--It is filled with turbot _à la crème_ or _à la Béchamel_.
+
+It may also be filled with any kind of fish, prepared _à la Béchamel_,
+_à la crème_, in white sauce, oyster-sauce, etc.
+
+_Of Truffles._--Cut the white flesh of a chicken in dice, prepare it as
+a chicken _sauté_, using truffles but no mushrooms, fill the _bouchées_
+with it and serve warm.
+
+_Of Purée of Chicken, or Bouchées de Dames._--It is filled with some
+_purée_ of chicken, and served as warm as possible.
+
+Do the same with a _purée_ of game.
+
+_Of Bobolink._--Prepare and clean twelve bobolinks as directed for
+birds, put a teaspoonful of truffles, cut in small dice, in each bird,
+for stuffing; sew the incision, and bake or roast the birds. Put each
+bird in a _bouchée_, and serve warm. A more delicate dish cannot be
+made.
+
+The same may be done with any kind of _small bird_.
+
+_Bouchées_ are generally served on a napkin and on a dish, in pyramid.
+
+_Pâte à choux._--Weigh four ounces of flour, to which add half a
+teaspoonful of sugar. Put two gills of cold water in a tin saucepan with
+two ounces of butter, and set it on the fire, stir a little with a
+wooden spoon to melt the butter before the water boils. At the first
+boiling of the water, throw into it the four ounces of flour and stir
+very fast with the spoon, holding the pan fast with the left hand. As
+soon as the whole is thoroughly mixed, take from the fire, but continue
+stirring for about fifteen or twenty seconds. It takes hardly half a
+minute from the time the flour is dropped in the pan to that when taken
+from the fire. The quicker it is done, the better. When properly done,
+nothing at all sticks to the pan, and by touching it with the finger it
+feels as soft as velvet, and does not adhere to it at all. Let it stand
+two or three minutes, then mix well with it, by means of a spoon, one
+egg; then another, and so on; in all four. It takes some time and work
+to mix the eggs, especially to mix the first one, the paste being rather
+stiff. They are added one at a time, in order to mix them better. If the
+eggs are small, add half of one or one more. To use only half a one, it
+is necessary to beat it first. Let the paste stand half an hour, stir
+again a little, and use. If it is left standing for some time and is
+found rather dry, add a little egg, which mix, and then use.
+
+_Beignets Soufflés_--(_also called Pets de Nonne_).--Make some _pâte à
+choux_; take a small tablespoonful of it, holding the spoon with the
+left hand, and with the forefinger of the right cause the paste to fall
+in hot fat on the fire (_see_ Frying), turn over and over again till
+fried, then turn into a colander, dust with sugar, and serve hot. In
+frying, the paste will swell four or five times its size, and by
+dropping it carefully and as nearly of a round shape as possible, the
+cakes will be nearly round when done.
+
+_Choux or Cream Cakes._--Make some _pâte à choux_: have a buttered
+bakepan, and drop the paste upon it in the same way as you drop the
+_beignets_ above; glaze with egg, and bake in an oven at about 380°
+Fahr. When baked and cold, make a cut on one side, about two-thirds
+through, the cut to be horizontal, a little above the middle, then, by
+raising the top a little, fill the cake, which is hollow, with one of
+the following creams: _whipped_, _Chantilly_, _cuite_, _frangipane_, or
+_légère_; dust with sugar, and serve.
+
+_The same, with Almonds._--Blanch sweet almonds and cut them in small
+strips, lengthwise; then, when the choux are in the bakepan and glazed
+with egg, spread the almonds all over, bake, fill, and serve as the
+above.
+
+_Saint Honoré._--Make some _pâte à choux_. Then put four tablespoonfuls
+of flour on the paste-board with two of sugar, one egg, one ounce of
+butter, salt, and a pinch of cinnamon; mix and knead the whole well;
+roll the paste down to a thickness of about one quarter of an inch and
+place it in a bakepan. Put a dessert-plate upside down on the paste, and
+cut it all around the plate with a knife; remove what is cut off and
+also the plate. Spread some _pâte à choux_, about a teaspoonful, all
+over the paste left in the bakepan, about one-sixteenth of an inch in
+thickness; put some of it also in the pastry-bag, and by squeezing it
+out, make a border with it about the size of the finger; prick the
+middle of the paste in about a dozen places with a fork and inside of
+the border; glaze the border with egg, and then bake in an oven at about
+400° Fahr. While the above is baking, make very small _choux_ (about the
+size of a macaroon), and bake them also. When both are baked, and while
+they are cooking, make some _crème légère_, fill the inside of the cake
+with it, so as to imitate a sugar-loaf or mound, about four inches in
+height, smooth it or scallop it with a knife. Put two tablespoonfuls of
+sugar and two of water in a saucepan, set it on the fire, toss the pan
+occasionally to boil evenly, and till it becomes like syrup. Do not stir
+too much, else it will turn white and somewhat like molasses-candy. It
+is reduced enough when, by dipping (not stirring) a little stick in it
+and dipping it again immediately in cold water, the syrup-like liquor
+that has adhered to it breaks easily and is very transparent. It must be
+as transparent as glass. As soon as reduced thus, take from the fire and
+use. Dip the top of each small _chou_ in it, holding the _chou_ with a
+small knife stuck in it; place a piece of candy (generally, sugar-plums
+of various colors are used) on the top of each _chou_; place them apart
+and around the _crème légère_, and upon the border of the cake, with one
+a little larger than the others on the top of it; serve cold. This cake
+is as good as it is sightly.
+
+_Eclairs._--_Eclairs_ are also called _petits pains_ or _profiterolles
+au chocolat_.
+
+_Eclairs au Chocolat._--Make some _pâte à choux_ as directed above, and
+put it in the pastry-bag with tube No. 1 at the end of it. Force it out
+of the bag into a baking-pan greased with butter. By closing and holding
+up the larger end of the bag and by pressing it downward, it will come
+out of the tube in a rope-like shape and of the size of the tube. Draw
+the bag toward you while pressing, and stop when you have spread a
+length of about four inches. Repeat this operation till the baking-pan
+is full or till the paste is all out. Leave a space of about two inches
+between each cake, as they swell in baking. Bake in an oven at about 370
+degrees. When baked and cold, slit one side about half through, open
+gently and fill each cake with the following cream, and then close it.
+Cream: put in a block-tin saucepan three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two
+of flour, four yolks of eggs, and mix well with a wooden spoon. Add a
+pint of milk, little by little, and mixing the while; set on the fire,
+stir continually till it becomes rather thick, and take off. Have one
+ounce of chocolate melted on a slow fire in half a gill of milk, and mix
+it with the rest, and use. Put one ounce of chocolate in a tin saucepan
+with a teaspoonful of water, and set on a slow fire; when melted, mix
+with it two tablespoonfuls of sugar, stir for a while; that is, till it
+is just thick enough to spread it over the cakes, and not liquid enough
+to run down the sides. A thickness of about one-sixteenth of an inch is
+sufficient. The cakes may either be dipped in the chocolate or the
+chocolate may be spread over them with a knife. Serve cold.
+
+_Eclairs au Café._--It is made exactly like the above, except that you
+mix with the cream three tablespoonfuls of strong coffee, instead of
+chocolate and milk.
+
+_Eclairs au Thé._--It is made like the preceding one, with the exception
+that strong tea is used instead of strong coffee.
+
+_Eclairs à la Vanille._--Proceed as for the above, but mix a teaspoonful
+of essence of vanilla in the cream instead of tea.
+
+_Eclairs à l'Essence._--The meaning of _éclairs à l'essence_ is, that a
+few drops of any kind of essence are mixed with the cream instead of
+chocolate and milk, and prepared and served like the others.
+
+_Eclairs aux Fraises._--Instead of filling the cakes with cream, fill
+them with strawberry-jelly, and for the rest proceed as for _éclairs au
+chocolat_.
+
+_Eclairs aux Groseilles._--Made like the above, but filled with
+currant-jelly.
+
+Do the same with _apple_, _blackberry_, _cherry_, _grape_, _peach_,
+_pear_, _plum_, _quince_, _raspberry jelly_, etc.
+
+_Petits Pains à la Reine._--_Eclairs_ are so called when filled with
+marmalade of peaches in which sweet almonds chopped fine have been mixed
+previously.
+
+_Petits Pains à la Rose._--Like the above, and by adding a few drops of
+essence of roses to the marmalade.
+
+_Petits Pains à l'Essence._--Like the above, with any kind of essence:
+_pink_, _violet_, _geranium_, etc.
+
+_Biscuits in Boxes._--Make some square boxes with sheets of white paper;
+fill them about two-thirds full with the same mixture as for lady's
+fingers, dust with sugar, and bake in a slow oven; serve cold.
+
+_With Almonds._--Mix well together with a wooden spoon four yolks of
+eggs with four ounces of sugar (pulverized), add three ounces of flour
+and mix well again. Beat the four whites to a stiff froth, and then have
+somebody to turn the mixture into them while you finish beating, and
+then mix the whole gently but well. It must not be stirred too much.
+Have two ounces of bitter almonds well pounded, with a teaspoonful of
+sugar, and mix them with the rest. Butter small moulds, turn the mixture
+into them, filling about two-thirds full, glaze with egg, dust with
+sugar, and bake in an oven at about 300 degrees Fahr.; serve cold.
+
+_With Chocolate._--Make some biscuits like the above, omitting the
+almonds, and flavoring them with a few drops of essence of vanilla. When
+cold, glaze them with chocolate, the same as described for _éclairs_,
+and serve.
+
+_With Essence._--Make biscuits with almonds or without, as the above
+ones, and flavor them with any kind of essence, or with orange and lemon
+rind grated.
+
+_Glazed._--When the biscuits are baked, glaze them with icing, and
+serve cold. These are sometimes called _biscuits à la royale_.
+
+_Of Rheims._--Mix well in a bowl six yolks of eggs with six ounces of
+sugar, with a wooden spoon. Add and mix with the above five ounces of
+flour and lemon-rind grated; beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth,
+and mix them also with the rest. Butter small moulds, turn the mixture
+into them, and bake in a slow oven, about 300 degrees Fahr. These are
+often made of the shape of lady's fingers. They are excellent eaten with
+wine.
+
+_With Filberts._--Put ten or twelve ounces of filberts or peanuts in a
+mortar with a few drops of orange-flower water and about half the white
+of an egg; when reduced to a paste, mix well with it four ounces of
+sifted flour, eight ounces of fine, white sugar, the yolks of two eggs
+well beaten, and the whites of four eggs whisked to a froth; when the
+whole is properly mixed, put it into a well-buttered mould, which place
+in a moderately-heated oven; watch it carefully, take out when cooked,
+which is easily known by the color it assumes.
+
+Biscuits with hazel-nuts, peach, or other kernels, may be made in the
+same way; that is, using them instead of filberts.
+
+_Lady's Fingers._--Mix well together with a wooden spoon four yolks of
+eggs and four ounces of pulverized sugar, then add three ounces of flour
+and mix well again. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth; have
+somebody to turn two tablespoonfuls of the mixture into the whites as
+soon as beaten enough, and which you mix with the egg-beater, then turn
+the rest or the mixture in, mixing gently with the wooden spoon. This
+must be done rather quickly, to prevent the whole from turning liquid.
+Put the mixture in the pastry-bag with tin tube No. 1 at the end of it,
+squeeze it out in sticks about four inches long into a baking-pan
+slightly buttered and dusted with flour, or on a piece of paper placed
+in the bottom of the pan; then dust them with sugar, and bake in a
+rather slow oven. They must not change in the oven, that is, they must
+not spread or swell, showing that the oven is too hot or too slow, or
+that the mixture has not been properly prepared. They must be like small
+sticks, round on the upper side and flat underneath. They are sometimes
+called _biscuits à la cuiller_. They are used to make a _Charlotte
+Russe_, or eaten with wine.
+
+Cakes.--_Almond._--Blanch, skin, and pound well one ounce of sweet
+almonds and the same of bitter ones, which you mix with eight ounces of
+pulverized sugar, six of flour, two eggs, a tablespoonful of brandy or
+rum, and a pinch of sugar. When thoroughly mixed, add five yolks of
+eggs, mix and stir for five minutes, then add also and mix half a pound
+of melted butter. Turn the mixture in small moulds, well buttered, and
+bake in a rather slow oven. Some almonds cut in small pieces may be
+spread over just before baking; or, when baked, some icing may be spread
+over. Serve cold. This is also called _Nantais cake_. Instead of
+almonds, use filberts, hazel-nuts, currants, peanuts, or raisins.
+
+_Fourré._--This is made with puff-paste and cream, or puff-paste and
+different mixtures placed inside of it, such as _Pithiviers cake_ and
+fruit-pies.
+
+_Anchovy._--Knead four ounces of flour with two ounces of butter, a
+little salt, and a little water. Clean four anchovies and put them in
+vinegar for five minutes; then cut them in small pieces, put them in a
+bowl, and cover them with sweet-oil; leave them thus ten minutes. Roll
+the paste thin, then place a little more than half of it on a tart-dish,
+raising it all around with the thumb and forefinger; cover the paste
+with the anchovies, and these with the remainder of the paste, after
+having cut it in square pieces; spread some of the oil in which were the
+anchovies on it, bake in a warm oven, baste now and then with a little
+of the oil, and serve warm.
+
+_Apple._--Stew eight or ten apples and mash them through a sieve. Put
+them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter and eight of sugar,
+set on the fire for five minutes, take off, let cool, and then mix with
+it five or six eggs, one after another. Turn the mixture into a buttered
+mould, which you place in a pan of boiling water, then boil slowly about
+half an hour, turn over a dish, and serve warm or cold.
+
+_Hard._--Put half a pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in
+the middle; put into it three ounces of pulverized sugar, three ounces
+of butter, two eggs, a pinch of cinnamon, a few drops of essence, and
+knead the whole well, dust the board with flour, roll the paste down to
+a thickness of about one-fourth of an inch, cut it in pieces with a
+paste-cutter, of any shape; beat one egg with a teaspoonful of sugar and
+glaze the pieces with it; with a piece of wood draw leaves or flowers on
+each, and bake in an oven at about 360 degrees Fahr. They are eaten cold
+at tea.
+
+_Heavy or Gâteau de Plomb._--Proceed as above with one pound of flour, a
+pinch of salt, one ounce of sugar, four yolks of eggs, one pound of
+butter, half a pint of cream; when rolled down as above, fold in two or
+four, and roll down again; repeat the process four times. Then place it
+in a bakepan and put in a hot oven. Serve cold at tea.
+
+_Milanais._--Put one pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole
+in the middle, in which you put half a pound of butter, same of sugar,
+two eggs, a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a gill of rum. Mix and knead
+to a rather stiff dough with cold water. Spread it and roll it down to a
+thickness of about one-eighth of an inch. Glaze it with egg, dust with
+sugar and bake in a rather quick oven. When cold, cut it in two, spread
+some _compote_ of peaches or of apricots on one half, put the other half
+over it, cut in pieces according to fancy, and serve.
+
+_Rum Cakes._--These are made with sponge cake cut with a paste-cutter,
+some sweetmeats or jelly is placed on the middle, then it is dusted with
+pulverized sugar, watered with rum, and then placed in the oven for
+about two minutes. These cakes have several names, according to the kind
+of sweetmeat used.
+
+_Savarin._--Put one pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in
+the middle; put into it four ounces of sugar, and make a hole again;
+then put in the middle four eggs, twelve ounces of butter, one and a
+half gills of milk; mix and knead the whole well; then mix again in the
+whole four ounces of leaven prepared as directed; butter a mould, dust
+it with sweet almonds chopped; put the mixture in it; put in a warm
+place (about 78 degrees Fahr.) to rise, and bake in an oven at 430
+degrees Fahr. It will take about two and a half hours to rise. The mould
+must not be filled, else it will run over in rising.
+
+_Sauce for Savarin._--Put four ounces of sugar and half a pint of cold
+water in a block-tin saucepan, set it on the fire and boil till reduced
+about one-third; then add from one-half to one gill of rum (according to
+taste), give one more boil, and turn over the cake. Baste the cake with
+the sauce till the whole is absorbed by it. Serve warm or cold.
+
+_Sponge Cake._--Mix well together in a bowl six yolks of eggs with four
+ounces of sugar; add four ounces of flour and mix again, add also a few
+drops of essence, then whisk six whites of eggs to a stiff froth and mix
+them again with the rest. Butter a mould, put the mixture into it, not
+filling it more than two-thirds full, and bake in an oven at about 320
+degrees. Sponge cake may be cut in pieces and used to make a _Charlotte
+Russe_, instead of lady's fingers.
+
+_Apple Dumplings._--Quarter, peel, and core the apples, and cut them in
+pieces, then envelop them in puff-paste with beef-suet, boil till
+thoroughly done, and serve warm with sugar, or with apple or wine sauce.
+It may also be served with sauce for puddings.
+
+_Buckwheat Cakes._--Make a kind of thin dough with tepid water, yeast,
+buckwheat flour, and a little sugar and salt, let rise, and fry with
+butter. Serve hot with sugar, or molasses, or butter.
+
+_Corn Cakes._--Mix well in a bowl two eggs with two ounces of melted
+butter, a pint of corn-meal, salt and sugar to taste. While mixing set
+milk on the fire, and as soon as it rises, turn it into the mixture,
+little by little, stirring and mixing the while, and till it makes a
+kind of thick dough. Butter well a shallow bakepan, put the mixture into
+it, and bake.
+
+_Crullers._--Mix well together and work with a wooden spoon, in a bowl,
+one egg with two ounces of melted butter and half a pound of pulverized
+sugar; then add salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, a few drops of essence, and one
+pound of flour, and mix again; add also milk, little by little, stirring
+and mixing at the same time, enough to make a thick batter. Divide the
+mixture in parts and fry in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.)
+
+_Doughnuts._--Mix well together in a bowl four eggs with half a pound of
+sugar, add two or three ounces of melted butter and mix again, then mix
+with the whole, about one pound of flour and boiled milk enough to make
+a rather thick dough, season and mix well with the whole, nutmeg,
+cinnamon, and a few drops of essence. Cut in fancy pieces with a knife
+or paste-cutter, and fry in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.) Dust with sugar,
+and serve hot.
+
+_Muffins._--Mix well together on the paste-board one pound of flour and
+three eggs, then add and mix again milk enough to make a thin dough, a
+little yeast and salt. Put away to rise; divide in parts and bake.
+
+_Pound Cake._--Take a large bowl and put in it one pound of melted
+butter and one pound of pulverized sugar, and mix the two thoroughly
+together with a wooden spoon; then add and mix well also with them,
+three eggs previously beaten with a saltspoonful of nutmeg and cinnamon,
+half of each. When the eggs are mixed, add also half a pound of flour,
+mix well again; then add six well-beaten eggs, and mix; then another
+half pound of flour, a few drops of essence of rose, half a gill of
+Sherry wine, a liquor-glass of brandy, four ounces of citron, and half a
+pound of comfited fruit, chopped fine. Beat and mix as well as possible.
+Butter a mould, dust it with fine bread-crumbs, turn the mixture into
+it, and bake in a warm but not quick oven. It takes about two and a half
+hours to bake. As soon as cold, serve it. It may be glazed with sugar,
+or sugar and white of egg.
+
+_Short Cake._--Cut puff-paste, made with a pound of flour and six or
+eight ounces of butter, in square or round pieces, bake; when cold,
+spread sweetened strawberries on, then cover with another cake, spread
+strawberries again on it, etc. Strawberry-jelly may be used.
+
+_Plum._--Mix well in a vessel a pound of sugar with a pound of butter,
+and then again with eight eggs, one at a time, also half a pound of
+raisins, half a pound of flour, a little rum, and a little yeast. Line a
+mould with buttered paper, turn the mixture into it, not filling it more
+than two-thirds full, place it in a warm but not quick oven for nearly
+two hours, remove the mould, and serve hot or cold.
+
+_Tea Cake._--Put half a pound of flour on the paste-board, and in the
+middle of it a pinch of salt, half an ounce of sugar, two eggs, four
+ounces of melted butter, and cold water enough to make a rather stiff
+paste. Knead well, roll down to about a quarter of an inch in thickness;
+cut it in pieces with a knife or paste-cutter; moisten the top with
+water by means of a brush, dust with sugar, and bake in an oven at about
+370 degrees Fahr. Serve cold.
+
+_Viennois._--Make some biscuits in boxes, and when cold, cut off a
+little piece on the top, in the centre, which place you fill with
+peaches or apricots in _compote_; put two together; serve cold.
+
+_With Jelly._--Proceed as above in every particular, using currant or
+raspberry jelly instead of _compote_.
+
+
+  MEAT-PIES.
+
+_Pâtés de Viande._--Meat-pies are made in moulds without bottoms and
+which open in two, or are made of two pieces joined and fastened
+together with two pieces of wire. The size of the mould and that of the
+pie are according to taste. A pie may be made and filled with a
+reed-bird, or with a quail, or a partridge, or prairie-chicken, or with
+a dozen of them. We will give the receipt for one prairie-chicken.
+
+_Pâté of Game._--Bone a prairie-chicken as directed for birds, and cut
+it in about half a dozen slices or pieces. Grease the mould with butter
+and put it in a baking-pan. Put one pound of flour on the paste-board
+and make a hole in the middle; place in it six ounces of butter, one
+egg, a pinch of salt, and about one gill and a half of cold water, and
+knead the whole well. Roll it down to a thickness of about one-quarter
+of an inch, and of a rectangular shape; fold in two, and roll down
+again. Repeat this from six to twenty times; that is, till the paste is
+soft. The last time roll it down to a thickness of one-third of an inch,
+and give it as round a shape as possible. Dust the upper side slightly
+with flour, fold in two in this way: turn the side farthest from you on
+the other, so that the side of the paste nearest to you will be somewhat
+round, and the opposite one will be straight. By pulling with the hands
+the two ends of the straight side toward you, it will make it somewhat
+round also; then, take hold of the paste exactly in the places where you
+were pulling; put it in the mould with the side nearest to you on the
+top; open it gently, and with the hands spread it so that the bottom and
+sides of the mould will be perfectly lined with it. With a sharp knife
+cut the paste even with the top of the mould. Line the sides of the
+paste with thin slices of fat salt pork. Mix in a bowl one pound and a
+half of sausage-meat with two eggs, salt, pepper, a pinch of cinnamon
+and one of nutmeg; place a layer of this mixture about half an inch
+thick on the bottom of the paste; then a layer of thin slices of fat
+salt pork; one of slices of prairie-chicken; again a layer of
+sausage-meat, one of salt pork, etc., layer upon layer, till the mould
+is nearly full, finishing with a layer of sausage-meat, and giving to
+the top of the _pâté_ a convex form, but leaving a space of about half
+an inch unfilled all around, so that the top of the _pâté_ will be about
+one inch higher than the sides, and half an inch higher than the sides
+of the mould and paste. The cover of the _pâté_ is made with the same
+paste as the bottom and sides, or with puff-paste.
+
+Roll the paste down to a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch. Glaze
+the sides of the paste in the mould with egg; that is, the space (half
+an inch) left unfilled; put the paste for the cover on the _pâté_; press
+it gently against the other paste with the fingers in order to cause the
+two pastes to adhere; with a sharp knife cut off the paste even with the
+mould. Make a hole in the middle and on the top of the cover about one
+inch in diameter; cut five pieces of paste about three inches square,
+dust them slightly with flour; place them one upon another on your left
+thumb, keeping it erect; then with the right hand take hold of the
+pieces, bringing the edges together so that the top will form a ball;
+with a sharp knife make two cuts across and through the five pieces;
+form a kind of stem as if you were to imitate a mushroom with these
+pieces, and plant the stem in the hole; when baked it looks like a
+flower. Glaze the cover with egg; cut strips of paste in different
+shapes with a knife or paste-cutter, place them on it according to
+fancy, and bake in an oven at about 390 degrees Fahr. The strips of
+paste may also be glazed with egg. It will take about two hours to bake.
+As soon as cold, cut the cover all around and remove it; fill the empty
+places with meat or calf's-foot jelly and put it on the dish. Chop some
+of the same jelly, put some all around it and on the top; cut some of it
+also in fancy shapes with a knife or paste-cutter; place it all around
+the dish and on the top of the _pâté_, and serve.
+
+The cut following represents a plain pie; that is, without any
+decoration, and immediately after having removed the mould.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Another, or Rabbit-Pie._--Chop very fine and separately one pound of
+veal, one of beef, one of lean fresh pork, three of rabbit or hare, and
+three of fat fresh pork. Mix the whole well together and season with
+salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, all grated or in powder.
+Line a mould with paste as directed above, put a layer of the mixture in
+the mould about one inch thick, place on it slices of truffles, if handy
+and liked; then another layer, truffles, etc., till the mould is full.
+If filled without truffles, it is not necessary to put layer after
+layer. Cover also as above, and bake in a moderately heated oven, about
+320 degrees Fahr. It takes from five to six hours to bake.
+
+_Another, or Prairie-chicken Pie._--Skin a prairie-hen (or several) and
+bone it. It is not necessary in boning it for a pie to proceed as
+directed for boned turkey, but merely to remove all the bones in the
+easiest and quickest manner; you cannot spoil the flesh, as it is to be
+chopped. Weigh the flesh when free from bones and skin. Weigh as much
+of each of the following: ham, salt pork, and calf's liver. Grate the
+salt pork and chop the three others very fine, and then pound the whole.
+Season with salt, pepper, cloves and nutmeg, both grated, a pinch of
+cinnamon and chopped parsley; mix with the whole two or three eggs, one
+at a time, in order to mix better. Line a mould with paste as directed
+above; line the paste with thin slices of salt pork, fill it with the
+mixture, and cover, bake, finish, and serve exactly the same as the
+preceding. For two prairie-hens it will require about three hours to
+bake. Slices of truffles may also be used; they are mixed at the same
+time with the eggs and seasonings.
+
+_With Cold Meat._--When the paste is placed in the mould as directed
+above, line it with thin slices of salt pork, then put a very thin layer
+of sausage-meat, prepared also as above, then fill with butcher's meat,
+poultry, and game, having previously removed all the bones, and cut the
+meat in strips; the greater the variety, the better the _pâté_. Put a
+little of each kind of meat used in a mortar, say from one ounce to a
+pound, with parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, salt and pepper; pound the whole
+well and then mix with one egg, half a gill of white wine, or a
+liquor-glass of brandy, to every pound of meat. Fill the hollow places
+with the mixture, to which you may add a little gravy or broth if it is
+not liquid enough. Place thin slices of salt pork on the top, cover with
+paste as described above, cook and serve as above also.
+
+Meat-pies, as seen above, are made with every kind of meat; with one or
+several kinds at the same time, according to taste.
+
+Wines and liquors may be used, it is only a matter of taste. The cover
+may be placed with only a hole in the centre, instead of decorating it.
+
+By using in turn butcher's meat, poultry, and game, an infinite number
+of different _pâtés_ can easily be made.
+
+_Terrines (Terreen, or Tureen)._--A terrine differs from a meat-pie in
+this, that instead of using a tin or brass mould and lining it with
+paste, a _terrine_ (French word for terreen) is used, and is only lined
+with thin slices of salt pork, and closed with its cover. It is filled,
+cooked, and served in the same way as a meat-pie.
+
+_Timbale._--The name _timbale_ is given to a meat-pie when made in a
+straight tin mould, lined as a _terrine_, and covered with a tin cover.
+A _terrine_ or _timbale_ keeps longer in winter than the pie.
+
+_Pains de Gibier (Pains of Game)._--This means, loaves of game. It is a
+_terrine_ made with any kind of game, of one or of several kinds, with
+the exception that birds are boned and filled (_see_ Directions for
+Boning), before placing them in the terreen; also, before covering the
+terreen, place a piece of buttered paper all around, so as to have it as
+nearly air-tight as possible when covered. Bake as above, and as soon as
+out of the oven remove the cover; put a piece of tin, sheet-iron, or
+wood on the top, large enough to cover the meat, but not the border of
+the terreen. Place some weight on it in order to press the meat down,
+and leave thus over night. The weight and piece of tin are removed, the
+terreen is wiped clean, the cover placed on it, and it is then served,
+or served on a dish. It keeps very well in winter time, and many are
+imported from Europe, especially those made like the following:
+
+_Another._--Cut four ounces of boiled beef-tongue and one pound of
+truffles in large dice. Put about two ounces of salt pork in a
+frying-pan on the fire, and when fried, add about six ounces of the
+flesh of prairie-hen, cut in pieces, four prairie-hens' and four chicken
+livers, eight in all; stir, and when turning rather brown, add also
+chopped parsley, salt, and pepper; stir again for two or three minutes,
+and take off. Put in a mortar one pound of flesh of prairie-hen, baked
+and chopped; one pound and a quarter of fat salt pork, and about four
+ounces of _panade_. Pound the whole well and put it in a large bowl.
+Then pound well also the six ounces of prairie-hen flesh and eight
+livers with twelve yolks of eggs and a wine-glass of Madeira wine, and
+put in the bowl also. Add to it the tongue and truffles, and mix the
+whole well, adding game-gravy, or meat-gravy if more handy, about a gill
+of it, season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cloves, grated.
+Bay-leaf and thyme, well pounded, may also be used, if liked. After
+being pounded, the whole may be mashed through a sieve, but it is really
+not necessary. Then place the mixture in one, two, or three _terrines_,
+cook, and serve as above.
+
+_Another_.--Take the flesh of six prairie-hens when cooked, and pound it
+well. Pound also eight livers, fried; four of prairie-hens and four of
+chickens; put flesh and livers in a saucepan with gravy, set on a slow
+fire, and as soon as warm, add to it, little by little, and stirring
+continually, about three-fourths of its volume of good butter. When all
+the butter is in, take from the fire, mix one pound of truffles cut in
+dice with it; put the mixture in one or more terrines; cover, bake, and
+serve as above.
+
+_Terrines_ and _pains_ are sometimes made with poultry, and in the same
+way as those of game.
+
+_Fish-Pies_.--These are made in the same way as meat-pies, using cooked
+fish instead of meat, but putting fish only inside of the paste. When
+done it is filled with _coulis of fish_ instead of jelly. Serve as a
+meat-pie. The fish must be free from bones.
+
+_Fruit-Pies._--Pies are made with paste and fruit or vegetables. The
+under-paste may be made of trimmings of puff-paste, or of the paste
+hereafter described, but the top is always made of puff-paste. The paste
+on the top may cover the fruit entirely, or it may be only strips
+running across, according to taste and fancy. The fruit is used raw or
+cooked previously, according to kind; if it requires longer cooking than
+the paste, or if it requires to be mixed or mashed, it must be cooked
+previously.
+
+_Under-Paste._--Put one pound of flour on the paste-board with six
+ounces of butter in the middle of it; also two ounces of sugar, two
+eggs, and cold water enough to make an ordinary paste, neither too stiff
+nor too soft. Roll the paste down to a thickness of one-eighth of an
+inch, spread it on a tin dish or bakepan, buttered slightly, raise the
+borders a little or place a strip of puff-paste all around it; put the
+fruit in the middle, then cover with a thin piece of puff-paste or place
+strips of it only over the fruit, and bake in a rather quick oven, about
+390 degrees Fahr. The strips of paste are cut with a paste-cutter
+(caster-like) and placed across; one strip may also be placed all
+around. When trimmings of puff-paste are used for the under-paste, when
+placed on the tin or bake-pan, prick it in about a dozen places with a
+fork to prevent it from rising. To place a border around the paste, you
+have only to cut a strip of it about half an inch wide, wet the paste
+with water by means of a brush, that is, the edge or place where you are
+going to put it; then take hold of the strip, place one end of it on the
+paste and run it all around till you meet the end, cut it off and stick
+the two ends together by wetting them also. When the border is placed,
+then put the fruit in the middle; if the fruit is not cooked, it must be
+mixed with sugar and essence, or cinnamon, or nutmeg, according to
+kind, if cooked, that is, stewed, or in _compote_ or in jelly, it is
+sweetened and flavored.
+
+The following are used to make pies: _apples_, _apricots_, _cherries_,
+_currants_, _blackberries_, _cranberries_, _gooseberries_, _grapes_,
+_mulberries_, _oranges_, _peaches_, _pears_, _pine-apples_, _plums_,
+_quinces_, _raspberries_, _lemon_, _rhubarb_, _prunes_,
+_whortleberries_, etc. It is better to stone the fruit before using it.
+Pies are decorated in the three following ways:
+
+1. When you use cooked fruit, put a thin layer of rice (prepared as for
+_croquettes_) on the paste, then a layer of stewed fruit; then the
+strips over, and bake. Two or three layers of each may be used.
+
+2. When baked, spread over the pie some syrup of apples, of pears, or
+syrup for _compotes_.
+
+3. Just before serving, spread some _crème légère_ on the top,
+tastefully and fancifully, by means of a paper funnel, or with the
+pastry-bag.
+
+_Tarts and Tartelettes._--These are small pies. Instead of using a tin
+dish or a bakepan, you use small tin moulds, such as for _madeleines_,
+and proceed exactly as for pies.
+
+_Mince-Pie._--Every thing used to make a mince-pie is chopped fine, and
+the spices are used in powder. Prepare paste as directed for meat-pies,
+and make it either with or without mould. Proportions: to three pounds
+of beef add six pounds of beef-suet, one pound of currants, one of
+prunes, one of raisins, and one of apples, the rind of two lemons, two
+ounces of citron, and one pound of any kind of comfited fruit; nutmeg,
+mace, cinnamon, cloves, and sugar to taste; also wine or brandy, or
+both, to taste. Bake in a moderately heated oven. The fruits may be used
+candied or fresh, the apples fresh or dried, it is a matter of taste.
+Twenty kinds of fruits and meat may be used as well as three or four;
+there are no rules to make a mince-pie, since its compounds are not used
+to be tasted at all separately, but as a whole.
+
+_Pot-Pie._--Make a paste with one pound of flour, two ounces of butter,
+two ounces of beef-suet (the latter prepared as directed for
+puff-paste), a little salt and water, enough to make a rather stiff
+paste; roll it down to a thickness of about a quarter of an inch and
+fold it in three and roll down again; repeat the process half a dozen
+times, the last time leaving it rolled down and of the thickness above
+mentioned. Line the sides of a pot with it, lay slices or strips of salt
+pork on the bottom of the pot, then fill it with strips of meat, any and
+every kind (slices of potatoes may be added, if liked); season with
+salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cinnamon; fill with water or broth; cover with
+some of the same paste; cover the pan and boil gently till done. When
+the cover of paste is laid on, make a hole in the centre to let the
+steam out, and to fill up with water or broth if it boils away. Run a
+sharp-pointed knife or a skewer through, to ascertain when done. Serve
+warm. Proceed as above either for butcher's meat, chicken, and other
+domestic fowls, or game.
+
+Puddings.--Puddings are made of several materials and in a hundred
+different ways. Some are cooked by boiling, others are baked, and some
+are both boiled and baked. Puddings for inhabitants of cities ought to
+be made as light as possible. For persons working outside and at manual
+labor, it does not matter, because their food passes through the system
+in a short time. It is very well known that the poorer class of
+Americans eat too much pudding and pie. Many do it for economy, others
+for convenience. The former are mistaken, and the latter are blamable.
+Puddings and pies cost more in the end than meat properly and carefully
+prepared. We do not mean to do away with them entirely, but we advise
+every one to do with puddings as with every thing else, "use, but do not
+abuse." "Pies, cakes, and sweetmeats, are universally known to be
+poisoning to children, and the mothers who give them are conscious that
+they are purchasing the momentary smile of satisfaction at the risk of
+after-sickness, and perhaps of incurable disease."--Peter Parley.
+
+The above needs no commentary; we only recommend it to the consideration
+of young mothers.
+
+_For Convenience._--We have taken the trouble to put questions about it
+to over three hundred mothers, wives of mechanics or of employés at a
+comparatively small salary, and we are sorry to say, that more than
+ninety per cent. gave us about the same answer--they make and cook cakes
+in one day, enough to feed the whole family for three days, to save the
+trouble of cooking every day. We cannot see where the trouble can be for
+a good wife and mother to prepare her husband and children's dinner.
+
+Pudding-eating is an English custom; but, before following a custom of
+another country, people ought to consider if that custom or fashion
+(whatever it is) has not been introduced into that country by necessity,
+which is the case of pudding-eating in England and in some parts of
+Holland.
+
+In England, where the fog is nearly perpetual, the stomach requires to
+be filled with something heavy, something that will stay there till the
+next meal, and very often longer than that.
+
+It is well known that in England farm hands, or other persons working in
+the open air, eat six times a day, and have pudding at least three
+times; they drink home-brewed beer, which is very heavy, and very rich
+also. Let anyone here, in this pure, clear atmosphere, eat six times a
+day, have pudding three times, with a pint of home-brewed beer every
+time, and see how he will feel in the evening. We beg all, who may doubt
+our observations, to try the experiment.
+
+Pastry in general, no matter how light it may be made, lies heavier on
+the stomach than any other food, and is very difficult of digestion.
+There are thousands of persons that have never had any indigestion but
+of pastry. Children like pastry very much; this is easily understood; as
+their young stomachs digest very rapidly, they crave food oftener than
+grown persons. Pastry being easier to have at any time than any thing
+else, it is given to them; and from habit in youth arises the liking
+when grown up. The stomach, being accustomed to it from infancy, may
+digest it better, but it is always at the expense of the whole system;
+the stomach must work hard, too hard in digesting it; whence come
+dyspepsia, weakness, and finally consumption, or debility, or any other
+sickness of the same kind.
+
+The cut below represents a pudding (any kind), made in a mould,
+scalloped, and hollow in the middle; any kind of mould may be used for
+puddings.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Bread-Pudding._--Soak half a ten-cent loaf in milk for about an hour,
+and squeeze it with the hands; place the bread in a bowl and mix well
+with it a gill of milk, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one ounce of
+citron, cut rather fine, four ounces of raisins, four ounces of melted
+butter, four yolks of eggs. Then beat the four whites of the eggs to a
+stiff froth and mix them with the rest. Grease a mould well with butter,
+dust it with bread-crumbs, turn the mixture into it, and bake. The mould
+must not be more than about two-thirds full. About 400 degrees Fahr. is
+the proper heat for a bread-pudding. It takes about forty minutes to
+bake. Serve with a sauce for pudding, hot or cold, according to taste.
+
+_Cabinet Pudding._--A cabinet pudding is made in any kind of a mould and
+of any size, with sponge-cake or lady's fingers. Butter a mould well; if
+the butter is too firm, warm it so as to grease the mould better. Slice
+some citron and cut it in lozenges or of any other shape, according to
+fancy, and place tastefully on the bottom of the mould; place some
+raisins all around also. It is not necessary to cover the bottom with
+them, but have some here and there, imitating flowers, stars, etc. Then
+put over them a layer of sponge-cake, cut in strips of any length and
+about half an inch thick; on this layer place some citron, some comfited
+(candied) fruit of one or several kinds, and all cut in dice, also some
+raisins; then another layer of cake, some more fruit, and so on, till
+the mould is full. After having placed the citron and raisins on the
+bottom, it is not necessary to put the rest in with care or order, but
+merely fill the mould with them and so that they are all mixed up. Set
+about a pint of milk on the fire and take it off as soon as it rises.
+Mix well in a bowl three ounces of sugar with three yolks of eggs, then
+turn the milk into the bowl, little by little, stirring and mixing the
+while, and pour the mixture over the cake, fruit, etc., into the mould.
+The above quantities of milk, sugar, and eggs are for a middling-sized
+pudding, and it will be very easy to make more or less, according to the
+size of the pudding. The mixture must be poured over in sprinkling, and
+it must nearly cover the whole within about half an inch. It must not be
+poured too slowly, for, the cake absorbing the liquor pretty fast, you
+would have too much of it if you were filling as directed above; we mean
+filling till the mould is nearly full. Place the mould in a pan of cold
+water so that it is about one-third covered by it, set on the fire, and
+as soon as it boils, place the whole, pan and mould, in an oven at about
+380 degrees Fahr., and bake. For a middling-sized one it takes about one
+hour. When done, place a dish over the mould, turn upside down, remove
+the mould, and serve with a sauce for puddings.
+
+_With Vermicelli._--Blanch four ounces of vermicelli, drain and drop it
+in cold water and drain again. While the vermicelli is cooking, put
+about a quart of milk in a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of sugar
+and a piece of lemon-rind, stir now and then to dissolve the sugar, and
+as soon as the milk rises, take it from the fire, remove the lemon, then
+turn the vermicelli into it, put back on the fire, add a tablespoonful
+of butter, stir continually, and when the vermicelli is well cooked,
+take off, mix well with the whole four eggs and sugar to taste. Turn the
+mixture into a well-buttered mould, place it in a pan of boiling water,
+boil slowly for ten minutes, then place as it is, pan and mould, in a
+moderately-heated oven to finish the cooking. It will take from fifteen
+to twenty minutes. Proceed as above with _macaroni_, _tapioca_, etc.
+
+_Plum-Pudding._--Break with the hands, in small pieces, about twelve
+ounces of the soft part of good and well-baked bread, not too fresh, but
+not stale, and grate it. Clean twelve ounces of raisins and currants,
+half of each. Cut in small dice four ounces of citron and four ounces of
+candied orange-rind. Chop fine the rind of a lemon. Butter a towel
+slightly and dust it with flour, slightly also. Take twelve ounces of
+good fresh beef-suet, remove the fibres and skin as well as possible,
+and chop it rather fine with three or four ounces of flour, and which
+put in a large bowl. Mix with it seven eggs and half a pound of sugar.
+It is believed by many that brown sugar is better than white, but it is
+only a belief, if not a prejudice. Add and mix again the bread, the
+raisins, and currants, the citron, and orange-rind. Having the whole
+thoroughly mixed, add half a gill of French brandy or Jamaica rum, a
+little salt, the lemon-rind, half a gill of cream or a little milk, and
+a little grated cinnamon. Place the mixture on the towel, and tie it as
+fast as possible, giving it a round shape. Drop the towel in boiling
+water, and boil for from four to five hours. Some boil a plum-pudding as
+long as seven hours. It may also be boiled in a mould for that purpose,
+but it is easier in a towel and quite as good. When taken from the
+water, remove the towel, cut a little piece of the pudding off to make
+it stand better on the dish. The place cut off is generally where the
+towel was tied, being the less smooth. The cut following shows a
+plum-pudding boiled in a towel.
+
+Serve with a sauce for puddings. The sauce may be served in a boat, or
+spread all over the pudding. When served the second day, or cold for
+supper, it is cut in slices; some Jamaica rum is poured over it, then
+set on fire, basting as long as it burns, and serve. It is generally
+burnt on the table, but the rum may be poured over in the kitchen. The
+cut below represents a whole one with rum around it and on fire.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Biscottes._--Put half a pound of flour on the paste-board and make a
+hole in the middle of it; put in the hole four ounces of sugar, one
+ounce of butter, three yolks of eggs, and a few drops of essence to
+flavor the cakes. Mix and knead the whole well with the hand. When like
+dough, roll it under your hands and bring it to a rope-like form of
+about three-quarters of an inch in diameter; cut it in pieces about two
+inches long; roll again with the hand so as to make a ball of each; then
+roll again with both hands so as to give each piece a round, elongated,
+olive shape; that is, smaller at each end than at the middle. Put them
+in a baking-pan, greased with butter; glaze each piece well with egg and
+a little sugar beaten together, then, with a sharp knife, which you dip
+in flour, make a cut on the top and into each cake, lengthwise, about
+three-quarters through, and bake in an oven at 350 degrees Fahr. Serve
+cold. It is an excellent cake for tea as well as for dessert.
+
+_With Almonds._--Add to the above mixture one ounce of pounded almonds.
+
+_With Filberts or Hazel-nuts._--Add to the mixture for _biscottes_, one
+ounce of filberts or hazel-nuts, pounded well.
+
+_Brioche._--Mix together on the paste-board, one pound of flour, six
+eggs, one pound of butter, four ounces of leaven prepared as directed,
+and tepid water enough to make a rather soft dough, then beat well. The
+longer it is beaten the better, and the lighter the _brioche_ will be.
+By beating we mean--take hold of the dough with the right hand, raise it
+and then throw it with force on the board and in the same place where it
+was; repeat that till it comes off your hand without any of the paste
+sticking to it. Put the mixture in a tin vessel, set it in a warm place
+(about 78° Fahr.) for about two hours to rise, and then put immediately
+on ice to cool. When cold, put it back on the paste-board, cut off about
+one-fourth of it. Make a kind of crown with the larger piece, but not a
+very large one; let the hole in the middle be about three inches in
+diameter. Then give the other piece a rope-like shape, about
+three-quarters of an inch in diameter; place it over the crown, giving
+it the shape of a star, and bake in an oven at 430°. Serve warm, without
+sauce.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Baba._--Mix together and beat as for a _brioche_, one pound of flour,
+ten eggs, one pound and a quarter of butter, four ounces of raisins,
+four ounces of citron, four ounces of leaven, about half a pound of
+different kinds of fruits, preserved in syrup or candied, all cut fine;
+put to rise, let cool, shape, bake and serve as a _brioche_.
+
+A _baba_ may be baked in a mould; the cut on the previous page
+represents one.
+
+_Croquignolles._--Put in a bowl four ounces of flour, a teaspoonful of
+sugar, a pinch of salt, half a pound of butter, four whites of eggs, and
+a few drops of essence; mix the whole well so as to make a very stiff
+paste. Then put the mixture on the paste-board, and roll it in a
+rope-like form about half an inch in diameter; then cut it in pieces
+about half an inch long, glaze with yolk of egg, dust with sugar, and
+bake in a warm but not quick oven. Serve cold at tea.
+
+_Galette._--Knead together half a pound of flour, six ounces of butter,
+two eggs, and a pinch of salt; roll it down to a thickness of a quarter
+of an inch, put in a bake-pan in the oven, and when nearly done, take
+off; mix well together one egg with a gill of cream and an ounce of
+butter, while the _galette_ is in the oven, spread the mixture over it,
+put back in the oven, finish the cooking, and serve cold at tea.
+
+_Génoises._--Put in a large bowl six ounces of flour, eight of sugar,
+two eggs, a liquor-glass of brandy or rum, and a few drops of essence;
+mix and stir the whole well for three minutes, then add two more eggs,
+stir and mix one minute longer, add again four eggs and continue
+stirring one minute longer. Melt half a pound of butter in another bowl,
+and mix with it about two tablespoonfuls of the mixture; when, turn into
+the other bowl and mix the whole well together. Butter a bakepan, spread
+the mixture in it, and bake in a rather slow oven (about 300° Fahr.).
+When the top is well baked, turn it over and finish it. When cold, cut
+the whole in strips about two inches long, then again across so as to
+make pieces of a lozenge-shape, and serve as it is or with a _sauce for
+puddings_.
+
+_The same, with Almonds._--Pound well four or six ounces of sweet
+almonds, place them in the bowl with the rest, and then mix, bake, and
+serve as the above one.
+
+Do the same with _bitter almonds_, _hazel-nuts_, _peanuts_, _filberts_,
+and _raisins_; flavor with any kind of essence.
+
+_With Chocolate._--When the cake is cut in pieces, glaze it as directed
+for _éclair au chocolat_.
+
+_With Sweetmeats._--When the cake is cut in pieces, with a sharp-pointed
+knife, cut off a part of each piece, on the top and right in the centre,
+so as to make a small hole, which you fill with any kind of sweetmeat or
+with any _cream_, and then serve. When thus served, they are called
+under several names.
+
+_Macaroons._--Throw into boiling water for five minutes ten ounces of
+sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones; skin them well; put in a
+mortar, and pound them to a paste, adding a few drops of the white of
+eggs during the process. Grind well also a pound of white sugar, with
+the quarter of a rind of lemon well grated; then mix well together
+almonds, sugar, and the whites of two eggs. Make balls of any size with
+it; put the balls on a piece of paper, beat the yolk of an egg with half
+a gill of water, and glaze the top of the balls with it by means of a
+brush; put them in a slow oven; it will take about fifteen minutes to
+cook them.
+
+_Macaroons with Chocolate._--Melt on a slow fire and in a tin pan three
+ounces of chocolate without sugar (known as Baker's chocolate); then
+work it to a thick paste with one pound of pulverized sugar, and three
+whites of eggs. Roll the mixture down to a thickness of about
+one-quarter of an inch; cut it in small round pieces with a
+paste-cutter, either plain or scalloped; butter a pan slightly and dust
+it with flour and sugar, half of each, place the pieces of paste or
+mixture in and bake in a hot but not quick oven. Serve cold.
+
+_Madeleines._--Mix well together in a bowl three ounces of sugar, three
+of flour, and two eggs, then again one ounce of melted butter and a few
+drops of essence to flavor. Butter slightly small tin moulds, dust them
+slightly also with flour and sugar, half of each, turn the mixture in,
+filling the moulds only two-thirds full, and bake in an oven at about
+340°. Serve cold.
+
+_The same, with Almonds._--Chop rather fine some sweet almonds, and when
+the mixture is in the moulds as described above, spread the almonds over
+them; bake, and serve as above.
+
+Do the same with _hazel-nuts_, _filberts_, _peanuts_, or _raisins_.
+
+_Meringues or Kisses._--Put half a pound of pulverized sugar in a plate,
+beat six whites of eggs to a stiff froth as directed, then have somebody
+to sprinkle the half pound of sugar into the eggs, and while you are
+still beating, which must be done in two seconds; stop beating and mix
+gently with a spoon, not by stirring but by turning the whole upside
+down several times. If it is stirred too much, it may turn too liquid.
+Put the mixture in the pastry-bag, with tin tube No. 2 at the end of it;
+spread the mixture on paper in a baking-pan, in oblong cakes about three
+inches long; dust them with pulverized sugar, and put in an oven at from
+220° to 230° Fahr. It requires some time to dry them, about one hour. As
+soon as taken from the oven, place one in your left hand, the top
+downward; press gently on the under side which is up, with the first
+finger of the right hand, so as to make a hollow; put in that hollow
+twice as much cream as is necessary to fill it; place another cake
+prepared alike over the cream; so that the two will be united and kept
+together by the cream; do the same with the rest; place them tastefully
+on a dish; dust them with sugar, and serve. They are generally filled
+with _whipped cream_, but may be filled with _crème légère_ or _crème
+cuite_. They may also be filled with _crème Chantilly_.
+
+_Swiss Meringue._--Instead of squeezing the mixture out and spreading it
+in oblong cakes, make a crown of it, then another and another, four in
+all, dust and bake in the same way; place them on a dish, one above the
+other, and fill the middle of the dish with cream as above. Serve cold.
+The mixture may also be placed on paper by the spoonful, but they are
+not as sightly as by means of the pastry-bag.
+
+_Zephyrs._--Proceed as for meringues as far as mixing the sugar with the
+whites of eggs, when mix also with both a few drops of cochineal. Put
+the mixture in the pastry-bag, with tin tube No. 1 at the end of it.
+Squeeze the mixture out and spread it on paper in a baking-pan, in
+different shapes: dentilated, convoluted, overlapping, waved, etc.,
+according to fancy, about three inches and a half long. Bake in same
+oven as meringues, and serve when cold, as they are.
+
+_Nougat._--Throw a pound of sweet almonds into boiling water for five
+minutes; skin them well, and when cool cut them in four or five pieces
+lengthwise; then melt a pound of fine white sugar with two spoonfuls of
+water, in a copper or crockery pan, and on a good fire, stirring all
+the time with a wooden spoon; when well melted, put the almonds in;
+keep stirring about five minutes longer, take from the fire, add a
+little of the rind of a lemon well grated, oil the mould, put it on the
+corner of the range in a warm but not too hot place; put the almonds and
+sugar in the mould, and little by little take off when of a brown color,
+turn on a plate, remove the mould, and serve.
+
+_Pancakes._--Make a thin paste with one pound of flour, four eggs, two
+tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, one of French brandy, a little salt, the
+necessary quantity of lukewarm water and milk, about half of each; let
+it remain thus two or three hours at least; then put about an ounce of
+lard, butter, or oil in a frying-pan, and set it on a brisk fire; when
+hot, put some of the paste in it with a ladle, spread the paste so as to
+cover the bottom of the pan; fry on both sides, place it on a dish, dust
+it with fine white sugar on both sides, and serve warm.
+
+Buckwheat and other pancakes are made in the same way.
+
+_Waffles._--Make a thin paste with eight ounces of flour, six ounces of
+pulverized sugar, two eggs, a few drops of essence to flavor, half a
+liquor-glass of brandy or rum, and milk. Warm and butter both sides of
+the mould, put some of the paste into it, close it gently, set it on the
+fire, turn over to heat both sides equally, dust them with sugar when
+done, and serve either warm or cold. It takes hardly a minute for each
+with a good fire.
+
+
+  BREAD.
+
+It is next to an impossibility to bake bread in a small oven; half the
+time the bread is too much or not enough baked. In cities, where good
+baker's bread can be bought, it comes as cheap as it can be made at
+home, if not cheaper, and saves a great deal of time and labor. It is
+not difficult to make good bread with good flour. There are several ways
+of making and of using yeast. Some are better than others; but many,
+though differently manipulated, bring about the same results. The only
+difficulty is the baking of it. Bakers can almost always bake bread
+properly, having large brick ovens. If they do not bake their bread
+enough, which is generally the case, it is not because they cannot, but
+because under-baked bread is heavier, and people, especially the poorer
+class, buy it in preference to the other; judging by the weight, they
+think they have more of it for a certain sum of money. Under-baked bread
+is difficult of digestion. (_See_ Food.)
+
+The best bread is made with the best wheat-flour, all that can be said
+by anybody to the contrary notwithstanding. Rye, corn, and barley bread
+are excellent, and may be partaken of by those whose constitution,
+occupation, etc., allow it. In every thing, bread included, the people,
+or what may be called "the million," are wiser than _soi-disant_
+philosophers; and if oat-meal or Indian-meal were better than
+wheat-flour, they would be dearer. To describe or discuss the
+innumerable methods of making bread would require several volumes. We
+have perused carefully hundreds of them; they nearly all differ
+theoretically, but practically, when practical (which is not always the
+case), they amount to about the same thing. We think that the only
+difficulty, if difficulty there be, is in the use of the yeast, the
+making of the same, and the baking. Chemical processes for rising will
+never equal the processes of nature and time. Many bakers do not use the
+yeast properly, their bread being sour or musty; some sweeten their
+bread, to disguise an inferior quality of flour, or as an antidote to
+sourness or mustiness.
+
+Bread gets dry after a while, and is inferior in quality and taste. The
+lighter the bread the better, although many do not think so. The belief
+may come from the fact that the lighter bread is the more porous, and
+therefore the quicker it evaporates and loses its taste. Warm bread,
+besides being injurious to the teeth, is difficult of digestion. When
+perfectly cold, let it stand in a dry place, neither cold nor warm, for
+one or two hours, and use. We give below the best methods of making
+bread--French bread, or rather good light bread, for we do not see that
+it is more French than Chinese or American, as long as it can be made
+everywhere with good flour; it is certainly the best for inhabitants of
+a large city, and especially for those having a sedentary occupation.
+Let us apply the proverb to bread as well as to every thing else: "Feed
+me with food convenient for me."--_Bible._
+
+Mix well together one gill of good strong yeast with half a pound of
+flour, so that it makes a rather stiff paste. Knead so that you shape it
+like a ball. Make two cuts with a knife on the top, across and about
+one-quarter of an inch deep; then place the paste in a bowl of tepid
+water (milk-warm), the cuts upward. After it has been in the water for a
+few minutes it will float and swell; let it float about two minutes,
+when take off and use. Put six ounces of flour on the paste-board, and
+make a hole in the middle; put into it the yeast prepared as above,
+tepid water enough to make an ordinary dough, and salt to taste. Knead
+well, shape according to fancy, put in a warm place (about 78 deg.
+Fahr.) to rise, and bake. It requires about six hours to rise.
+
+_Another._--Wash and clean thoroughly half a pound of potatoes, and then
+steam them with the skins on. Mash them well with half a pint of flour,
+about half a pint of tepid water, and half an ounce of salt. When
+thoroughly mixed, put away in a warm place (about 78 deg. Fahr.) for one
+hour. Then add and mix with it half a pint of good yeast, and put away
+in the same place for about nine hours. It may take a little longer than
+nine hours or a little less, but it is very easy to know, and in this
+way: after a while it will rise slowly and gradually for some time, and
+then begin to fall; as soon as it begins to fall, mix a little tepid
+water with it and strain through a sieve; throw away potato skins and
+eyes; mix what is strained with two pounds of flour and tepid water
+enough to make an ordinary dough. Put it away again in the same place
+until it cracks on the top, which will take place in about an hour. Then
+put six pounds of flour on the paste-board, and make a hole in the
+middle; put into it a little tepid water and the dough when cracked;
+knead the whole well with water enough to make an ordinary dough, salt
+to taste. To knead it well, it is necessary to raise the dough or part
+of it, and then throw it back on the paste-board with force. The more
+the dough is kneaded, the better and lighter the bread. Then shape the
+loaves, let rise, and bake in a very quick oven.
+
+_To shape._--Divide the dough, as soon as kneaded, in as many parts as
+you wish to make loaves; then knead each part, one after another, so as
+to make a kind of ball; then, by rolling and pulling it, give it an
+elongated, sausage-like shape. A pound loaf can be made a foot and a
+half long, as well as four inches; it will only be narrower and thinner,
+and will have more crust. When the dough is thus elongated, take a round
+stick or a small rolling-pin, place it on the top of the dough, right on
+the middle, lengthwise, and then press on it and roll just a little, to
+and fro, so as to make a kind of furrow in the middle. Have a towel
+well dusted with flour, place the dough on it upside down, that is, the
+furrowed side under; let rise as ordinary bread; turn it into a pan, but
+so that the furrowed side will be up (the side that was down in rising
+must be up in baking); dust the furrow well with rye-flour to prevent
+the paste from closing, so that the top of the loaf will be concave
+instead of convex when baked.
+
+_Another._--Steam half a pound of potatoes and mash them well; then mix
+them immediately and while hot with about a pint of flour, a quart of
+water, and half a pint of good strong yeast. Leave the mixture six hours
+in a rather warm place, then strain through a sieve, pressing the
+potato-skins so as to squeeze all the liquid out of them. Immediately
+add to the strained mixture flour enough to make ordinary dough, which
+you knead a little, and let stand as it is from one to two hours and a
+half, according to temperature. Knead then with it about six pounds of
+flour, salt to taste, and tepid water to make ordinary dough, and leave
+it thus two hours, then shape in the same way as the above; put it to
+rise in the same way also (it will take from one to two hours, according
+to temperature); dust with rye-flour, and bake.
+
+French bread may be shaped like other bread, round or square; it is just
+as good.
+
+Rolls, or rather French rolls as they are generally called, are made,
+shaped, and baked in the same way.
+
+It is a mistake to call _bread_ certain mixtures of flour, soda, and
+milk; or flour, milk, and butter, etc.; it is no more bread than a
+mixture of carbonic acid, water, alcohol, molasses, vitriol, etc., is
+wine. No one can give a name to such a mixture except chemists.
+
+
+
+
+  BILLS OF FARE.
+
+
+_Dinner-Time._--On account of the various occupations of members of the
+same family, this is often the first and only time of the day that sees
+them all assembled. It is the dinner that mostly supplies the waste that
+the system has undergone for twenty-four hours. Being taken after the
+day's work is over, it gives to the stomach time to digest (mind and
+stomach never working at the same time). (_See_ Food, Economy, Coffee,
+and Tea.)
+
+The dinner, being the most substantial meal of the day, requires more
+preparation than any other meal; the bill of fare of it should,
+therefore, be made the day before, or at least early in the morning. It
+should always be made between the mistress or master of the house and
+the cook; written and hung in the kitchen, near the clock. The first
+thing to put down is what may be left from the preceding day, and also
+what may be in the larder; then what is wanted in butcher's meat or
+poultry, or both; the fish or game, or both, and which, with vegetables,
+are according to the market. It is then one of the duties of the cook to
+make a list of what is wanted as accessories; such as flour, eggs,
+sugar, spices, etc.
+
+Besides the above, it is also the duty of the cook to send the dishes to
+the table in their regular order; for, if the whole dinner is sent at
+once, all the dishes have to be eaten at once also, else the last get
+cold and are unpalatable, or, by mixing them, they are rendered
+tasteless, as the flavor of one neutralizes (if it does not destroy) the
+taste of another.
+
+To make models of bills of fare is not difficult, but to follow them is
+nearly impossible; hardly one in a hundred would suit any one.
+
+Bills of fare vary according to the season of the year, and therefore to
+the produce in the market.
+
+We will try to give another, and we think a better way of making them to
+suit everybody, every purse, and at any time.
+
+A dinner, no matter how grand, is composed of three courses, and seven
+kinds of dishes.
+
+The first course comprises dishes of four kinds, viz.: potages,
+_hors-d'oeuvres_, _relevés_, _and entrées_.
+
+The second course comprises dishes of two kinds, viz.: _rôts_ and
+_entremets_.
+
+The third course comprises dishes of one kind, the dessert.
+
+The number of dishes of each kind is generally according to the number
+of guests.
+
+It may also be according to the importance of the occasion for which the
+dinner is given; to the honor the giver or givers wish to show the
+personage or personages invited; to the amount of money they are willing
+to spend, etc.
+
+The following table shows how many dishes of each kind are to be served
+at dinner to a certain number of persons:
+
+  -----+-+-+-+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+---+----------------------------------------
+  For..|2|4|6|10|16|20|30|40|50|60|80|100| Persons.
+  Serve|1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8| Potages.
+    "  |2|2|2| 4| 4| 6| 6|10|10|12|12| 16| Hors-d'oeuvres.
+    "  |1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8| Relevés of fish.
+    "  |1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8|   "     of meat.
+    "  |2|2|2| 4| 4| 4| 8| 8| 8|12|16| 16| Entrées.
+    "  |1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8| Rôts.
+    "  |1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8| Salads of greens.
+    "  |2|2|2| 4| 4| 4| 8| 8| 8|12|16| 16| Entremets.
+    "  | | | |  |  | 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 6|  8| Large side pieces of Relevés & Entrées.
+    "  | | | |  |  |  |  | 2| 2| 4| 4|  6|   "   cakes.
+    "  |4|4|4| 8| 8| 8|16|16|16|24|32| 36| Plates of Dessert.
+  -----+-+-+-+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+---+----------------------------------------
+
+The above table shows the number of dishes, but more than one dish of
+the same kind can be served; for instance, four kinds of potages,
+_relevés_, etc., are served for forty; but two or four dishes of each
+kind can be served.
+
+The size of the _relevés_ and _rôts_ should be according to the number
+of guests.
+
+It is just as easy to select dishes for a small family-dinner as for a
+grand one; two, three, four, or more dishes can be selected; for
+instance, you select a potage, an _entrée_ or _rôt_, or both, one
+vegetable or a sweet dish, or both; and one or as many plates of dessert
+as you please.
+
+Have a bouquet on the middle of the table, if possible, or at least a
+basket of fruit. Flowers during dinner have the same effect as music
+after it; they soften the manners, and gently and sweetly gratify the
+senses.
+
+To simplify and render the making of bills of fare easy, we have divided
+the different dishes into seven parts, each part being in the order the
+dishes of which must be served, and representing the seven kinds of
+dishes composing a dinner. By this means you select the dish or dishes
+which suit you, and which you can procure in any or all of the seven
+parts, and your bill of fare is made, and more to your liking than any
+steward on earth can do.
+
+_Order of dishes._--1. _Potages_. 2. _hors-d'oeuvres_. 3. _Relevés_: of
+fish, and then of meat. 4. _Entrées_: beef, mutton, lamb, veal, fish,
+poultry, and game last. 5. _Rôts_: of meat, and then of fish. 6.
+_Entremets_: salads of greens, vegetables, eggs, macaroni, sweet dishes,
+and cakes. 7. _Dessert_: cheese the first.
+
+_First part_, or _Potages_.--Any kind coming under the head of potages
+or soups.
+
+_Second part_, or _hors-d'oeuvres_.--These are small dishes placed on
+the table as soon as the soup-dish is removed or even before, and which
+are removed just before serving the sweet dishes of the _entremets_.
+They are passed round after every dish, on account of being considered
+more as appetizers, as repairers of the natural waste of animal life.
+Very little of them is partaken of at a time; they are _anchovies_;
+_artichockes_, raw; pickled _beets_; _butter_; _caviare_; _cervelas_;
+raw _cucumbers_; _figs_; every kind of _fish_, salted, smoked, pickled,
+or preserved in oil; every kind of _pickled fruit_; _horse-radish_;
+_horse-radish butter_; _melons_; broiled _mushrooms_; _olives_; raw and
+pickled _oysters_; steamed _potatoes_ served with butter; _radishes_ and
+butter; _sardines_; _saucissons_; _sausages_, salt and smoked, but not
+fresh; salted and smoked _tongue_; _tunny_, _walnuts_ in salad.
+
+_Third part_, or _Relevés_.--_Relevés_ are composed of fish and large
+pieces of meat. A fish served whole is always a _relevé_; in pieces, it
+is an _entrée_. Pieces of _beef_, _mutton_, and _pork_, roasted, are
+always served as _relevés_. At a family dinner the _relevé_ is almost
+always a fish. The other pieces of meat that are served as _relevés_
+are: _bear_, _buffalo_, boiled and corned _beef_, _leg_ and _saddle_ of
+mutton, _quarters_ of lamb, large pieces of _veal_; also all
+_vol-au-vent_ of meat and of fish, _boucheés_ and _fish-pies_.
+
+_Fourth part_, or _Entrées_.--These comprise every dish of meat, except
+poultry and game, when roasted; every dish of _fish_ not served whole;
+also _pâtés de foies gras_, _sour-krout_, _snails_, _meat-pies_,
+_terrines_, _pains_ of game and of poultry. The dishes of _meat_
+mentioned in the _relevés_ may be served as entrées at a family dinner.
+The order of the dishes is described above.
+
+_Fifth part_, or _Rôts_.--_Poultry_, _game_, and _fish_. At a family
+dinner, _lamb_ and _veal_ are often served as roasted pieces, especially
+at seasons when there is no game, and poultry is scarce.
+
+_Sixth part_, or _Entremets_.--The following are served as _entremets_:
+all _salads_ of greens; all dishes of _vegetables_, of _omelets_, except
+four, viz., with bacon, salt pork, ham, and kidneys. Also dishes of
+_macaroni_, of _rice_, _eggs à la neige_, all _sweet dishes_ (sweet
+dishes are also served as _dessert_), and _cakes_; such as _baba_,
+_brioche_, _génoises_, _madeleines_, _savarin_, and sponge-cake.
+
+_Seventh part_, or _Dessert_.--The dessert comprises ripe _fruit_,
+_sweet dishes_ (these are also served as _entremets_, according to
+taste), _pastry_ (except meat-pies, _terrines_, and _pains_), _salads_
+of fruits, and cheese. The latter is always served the first (_see_
+Cheese). After cheese, there is no rule for serving the other plates of
+dessert; it is according to each one's taste.
+
+_Punch_ is served after the _entrées_ or after the _relevés_ of fish,
+according to taste.
+
+_Early Breakfast_.--We are of opinion that everybody ought to eat as
+little meat as possible, and drink no wine, beer, or any other liquor at
+an early breakfast, no matter what the sex or age may be, except when
+prescribed by the physician in case of sickness, debility, etc. The food
+may be selected from the following: _bread_ and _butter_, _eggs_,
+_omelets_, fried _fish_, fried _vegetables_, _sardines_, and _fruit_,
+according to the season.
+
+As for meat, in case it should be eaten, it ought to be cold, such as
+fowl or veal, cooked the day before.
+
+Muffins, and other cakes or pastes, served warm, are very bad for the
+stomach and teeth.
+
+The beverage ought to be either coffee, with milk, chocolate, cocoa,
+choca, or cold water, but do not by any means drink tea at breakfast; it
+is too astringent.
+
+Although cold meat is not by far so injurious as warm meat for
+breakfast, it ought, nevertheless, to be as little partaken of as
+possible, and especially by the young.
+
+_Late Breakfast, Lunch, Tea, and early Supper_.--At these meals the
+following dishes may be served:
+
+Every dish served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, _calf's_ head and feet, bear
+_hams_, _head-cheese_, _eggs_ cooked in any way, _omelets_, _mutton_
+chops, _veal_ cutlets, fried _fish_, ripe _fruit_, boned _birds_, _ham_,
+cold _meat_ of any kind, _oysters_, _pâté de foies gras_, _salads_ of
+chicken, or any other birds, and of lobster, _sandwiches_, _sardines_,
+fried _vegetables_, _sweet dishes_, and _pastry_.
+
+_Late Supper_.--This being the last meal taken before retiring, persons
+should be careful about what they eat then, especially those who take no
+bodily exercise, or retire soon after it. Some are not aware that their
+rest depends nearly, if not entirely, on what they have eaten at supper.
+The lighter the food the better; such as fried _fish_, _sardines_, _lait
+de poule_, _bavaroise_, well-ripened _fruit_, a _cream_, a little _iced
+fruit_, _fruit-jelly_, _prunes_, etc.
+
+The gastronomical or hygienic rule to be observed in eating, it will be
+seen, is therefore, after the soup and _hors-d'oeuvres_, to commence
+with the heaviest or most substantial dishes, and to finish with the
+lightest. The rule is just the opposite for wines. Here we must commence
+with the lightest, and end with those which contain the most alcohol,
+and are consequently the heaviest.
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX.
+
+  Allumettes, 413.
+  Almonds, 44.
+  Anchovy, 144.
+    butter, 99.
+    cake, 428.
+    salad, 353.
+  Anise, 16.
+  Apples, au beurre, 378.
+    charlotte, 379.
+    dumplings, 431.
+    flambantes, 378.
+    fried, 400.
+    meringuées, 379.
+    pie, 440.
+    syrup, 380.
+    in compote, or stewed, 385.
+     " fritters, 379.
+     " jelly, 4.
+    pine-apple, 380.
+    with rice, 374.
+      "  sweetmeats, 380.
+  Apricots, 16.
+    in compote, 385.
+     " jelly 406.
+     " salad, 352.
+    iced, 397.
+  Artichokes, 306.
+    fried, 306.
+    (Jerusalem), 307.
+  Asparagus, 307.
+    fried, 308.
+    en petits pois, 307.
+    in omelet, 308.
+    with cream, 308.
+      "  vinaigrette, 308.
+      "  white sauce, 308.
+  Aspic, 275.
+
+  Baba, 449.
+  Bacon, 16.
+  Bain-marie, 16.
+  Bakepans, 17.
+  Baking, 9.
+  Bananas, 393.
+  Barley, 76.
+    lemonade, 44.
+    sugar, 45.
+  Bass, 132, 135, 136.
+  Batter, 30.
+  Bavaroise, 45.
+  Bay-leaf, 17.
+  Beans (string), 308.
+    au jus, 309.
+    maître d'hôtel, 309.
+    in salad, 309, 350.
+    with onions, 309.
+    pickled, 353.
+    (Lima), 309.
+    au jus, 310.
+    (dry), 310.
+    maître d'hôtel, 310.
+    with ham, 311.
+      "  mutton, 311.
+      "  salt pork, 310.
+    in purée, 120.
+    stewed, 311.
+  Bear-meat, 277.
+    ham, 277.
+  Beef, 162.
+    à la mode, 163.
+    baked, 167.
+    in daube, 164.
+    roasted, 165.
+    with garnitures, 166.
+    decorated, 167.
+    stewed, 164.
+    fillet larded, 168.
+      with mushrooms, 169.
+        "  truffles, 169.
+        "  potatoes, 169.
+        "  tomatoes, 169.
+        "  quenelles, 169.
+        "  Madeira sauce, etc., 169.
+      en bellevue, 170.
+    ribs, 170.
+      with mushrooms, etc., 171.
+    steaks, 171.
+      broiled, 172.
+    steaks with potatoes, 172.
+          "     water-cress, etc., 173.
+          "     mushrooms, 173.
+          "     truffles, 173.
+      sautés, 171.
+      fancy, 173.
+    tenderloin, 168.
+    low cuts, 171.
+    boiled or cold, 174.
+      hashed, 177.
+      in croquettes, 175.
+      "  miroton, 176.
+      "  salad, 177.
+      au gratin, 176.
+      with vegetables, etc., 175.
+    corned, 177.
+    en bellevue, 178.
+    brain, 179.
+    heart, 179.
+    kidneys, 180.
+    liver, 180.
+    tail, 181.
+    tongue, 178.
+      (smoked), 183.
+      with sauces, 183.
+      in hors-d'oeuvre, 183.
+      "  bellevue, 183.
+    tripe, 181.
+      broiled, 182.
+      poulette, 182.
+      stewed, 182.
+      pickled, 183.
+  Beets, 17.
+    boiled, 17.
+    pickled, 353.
+    stewed, 312.
+    in salad, 350.
+  Beignets soufflés, 422.
+  Berries, iced, 398.
+    preserved, 402.
+    with milk, 401.
+      "  liquor, 401.
+    in salad, 352.
+  Bichof, 45.
+  Bills of fare, 459.
+  Birds, 278, 279.
+    preserved, 46.
+  Biscottes, 448.
+  Biscuits, 426.
+    almonds, 426.
+    chocolate, 426.
+    glazed, 426.
+    with filberts, etc., 427.
+    vanilla, 426.
+    of Rheims, 427.
+  Blackberries, 352.
+    in compote, 386.
+    "  jelly, 406.
+    preserved, 402.
+  Black-birds, 278.
+  Black-fish, 132, 135.
+  Blanc-mange, 380.
+  Blanc-manger, 381.
+  Blanch, 305.
+  Blanquette, 205.
+  Blue-fish, 132, 135.
+  Bobolink, 278.
+  Boiling, 9.
+  Boned turkey, 260.
+  Border of paste, 244.
+        "   rice, 373.
+  Bouchées, 420.
+    of fish, 421.
+    "  birds, 421.
+    "  oysters, 421.
+    "  lobster, etc., 421.
+  Boulettes, 117.
+  Bouquet, 461.
+  Brain, 214.
+  Braising, 18.
+  Bread, 454-458.
+    crumbs, 46.
+    farce, 113.
+    pudding, 445.
+  Breakfast, 453.
+  Brioche, 449.
+  Broccoli, 318.
+  Broiling, 10.
+  Broth, 61-70.
+  Brown-butter, 100.
+  Buffalo, 277.
+    steaks, 277.
+  Buckwheat cakes, 431.
+  Bunch of seasonings, 18.
+  Burnt sugar, 47.
+  Butter, 409.
+    anchovy, 99.
+    lobster, etc., 118, 119.
+    melted, 119.
+    scented, 119.
+  Buttered paper, 18.
+
+  Cabbage, 313.
+    à la crème, 313.
+    with apples, 313.
+     "   bacon, 313.
+    garniture, 113.
+    in salad, 348.
+    "  sour-krout, 315.
+    stewed, 313.
+    stuffed, 314.
+    pickled, 353.
+    red, 314.
+  Cabinet pudding, 445.
+  Café au lait, 51.
+    noir, 51.
+  Cake, 428.
+    almond, 428.
+    apple, 429.
+    corn, 431.
+    cream, 423.
+    currant, 428.
+    filbert, 428.
+    fourré, 428.
+    hazel-nut, etc., 428.
+    hard, 429.
+    heavy, 429.
+    Madeleine, 452.
+    Milanais, 429.
+    Nantais, 428.
+    Pithiviers, 415.
+    plum, 433.
+    pound, 432.
+    rice, 373.
+    Saint Honoré, 423.
+    Savarin, 430.
+    short, 432.
+    sponge, 431.
+    tea, 433.
+    Viennois, 433.
+    with jelly, 433.
+  Calf's brain, 214.
+    ears, 215.
+    feet, 215.
+      " jelly, 53.
+    head, 216, 217.
+      en tortue, 218.
+      soup, 86.
+    heart, 218.
+    kidneys, 219.
+    lights, 220.
+    liver, 221.
+    pluck, 222.
+    sweetbreads, 223.
+      in vol-au-vent, 419.
+    tail, 223.
+    tongue, 223.
+  Candied fruit, 403.
+  Capon, 256.
+  Caramel, 47.
+  Cardoon, 316.
+  Carp, 132, 135.
+  Carrots, 316.
+    Béchamel, 316.
+    fines herbes, 317.
+    glazed, 317.
+    au jus, 317.
+    poulette, 317.
+    stewed, 317.
+    with sugar, 318.
+    in purée, 122.
+     " soup, 77.
+  Catsup, 18.
+    mushroom, 327.
+    tomato, 354.
+  Cauliflowers, 318.
+    Béchamel, 318.
+    gratin, 318.
+    white sauce, 319.
+    fried, 319.
+    stewed, 319.
+    in salad, 320.
+    with cream, etc., 319.
+    pickled, 353.
+  Caviare, 18.
+  Celery, 320.
+    fried, 320.
+    in salad, 348, 349.
+     " purée, 122.
+  Cervelas, 19.
+  Charlotte of fruit, 383.
+    Française, 382.
+    Polonaise, 382.
+    Russe, 381.
+    Italienne, 382.
+    à la Chantilly, 382.
+    apple, 379.
+  Chartreuse, 284.
+  Cheese, 19.
+    à la crème, 383.
+  Cherries in brandy, 406.
+    compote, 386.
+    pie, 440.
+    glazed, 396.
+    preserved, 402.
+  Chervil, 19.
+  Chestnuts, 350.
+    candied, 405.
+    glazed, 396.
+    in compote, 387.
+     " purée, 121.
+  Chiccory, 320.
+    in salad, 348.
+    (wild), 348.
+  Chicken, 238.
+    to truss, etc., 238-241.
+    baked, 251.
+    boiled, 241.
+    boned, 242.
+    broiled, 242.
+    with sauce, 242, 243.
+    croquettes, 243.
+    fricassée, 244.
+    suprème, 246, 247.
+    financière, 246.
+    française, etc., 246.
+    Marengo, etc., 248.
+    roasted, 249.
+    with sauce, 250.
+      "  garniture, 250.
+    decorated, 250, 251.
+    sauté, 251, 252.
+    with Champagne, 252.
+    stewed, 253.
+    stuffed, 253, 254.
+    in pie,
+     " purée, 119.
+    vol-au-vent, 419.
+    cold, 254.
+      in salad, 256.
+    preserved, 46.
+    broth, 65.
+  Choca, 52.
+  Chocolate, 51.
+    iced, 398.
+  Choux, 423.
+  Chowder, 159.
+  Clams, 159.
+    baked, 161.
+    chowder, 159.
+    soup, 92.
+  Cochineal, 19.
+  Cocoa, 52.
+  Cocoa-nut, 352.
+  Cod-fish, 136.
+    stuffed, 131.
+    (salt), 145, 146.
+  Coffee, 47.
+    iced, 398.
+  Colander, 19.
+  Cold weather, 22.
+  Colored beans, 310.
+  Compotes, 384.
+    apples, 385.
+    cherries, 386.
+    oranges, 386.
+    berries, 386.
+    peaches, etc., 385.
+    syrup, 384.
+  Contents, 7.
+  Cooking, 9.
+  Corn (sweet), 321.
+   cake, 431.
+  Corn-salad, 348.
+  Corn-starch, 75.
+  Consommé, 64.
+  Caulis of fish, 101.
+    veal, 101.
+  Courses, 460.
+  Crabs, 153.
+  Cranberries, 387.
+    compote, 387.
+    pie, 441.
+  Craw-fish, 153.
+  Cream, 387.
+    sweet, 392.
+    cheese, 383.
+    au café, 388.
+    Chantilly, 392.
+    caramel, 389.
+    chocolate, 389.
+    cuite, 390.
+    essence, 390.
+    frangipane, 390.
+    ice, 392.
+    légère, 391.
+    lemon, 387.
+    orange 390.
+    patissière, 391.
+    renversée, 391.
+    tea, 390.
+    vanilla, 390.
+    whipped, 392.
+    cakes, 423.
+  Croque en bouche, 394.
+  Croquettes of veal, etc., 206.
+    chicken, 243.
+    potato, 338.
+    rice, 373.
+  Croquignolles, 450.
+  Croutons, 114.
+  Crullers, 431.
+  Crumbs, 30, 46.
+    white, 46.
+  Cucumbers, 321.
+    in hors-d'oeuvre, 322.
+    pickled, 355.
+    in salad, 350.
+    stuffed, 322.
+  Currants,
+    compote, 386.
+    glazed, 397.
+    iced, 398.
+    jelly, 406.
+    salad, 352.
+    (dried), 57.
+  Curry, 20.
+  Custard, 393.
+
+  Dandelion, 323.
+    in salad, 348.
+  Dessert, 463.
+  Dining-room, 20.
+  Dinner, 459.
+    directions, 16.
+  Dish, 20.
+  Dishes (order of), 461.
+  Divers receipts, 44.
+  Doughnuts, 432.
+  Draining, 20.
+  Drinking, 21.
+  Duck, 264.
+    apple sauce, 265.
+    cranberry sauce, 265.
+    baked, 265.
+    roasted, 265.
+    with turnips, 267.
+      "  currant-jelly, 265.
+      "  garniture, 265.
+    sauté, 266.
+    with peas, etc., 266.
+    stuffed, 268.
+    boned, 268.
+    preserved, 46.
+    cold in salmis, 268.
+        "   croquettes, 268.
+        "   salad, 268.
+  Duckling, 264.
+  Dust, to, 21.
+
+  Ears, 215.
+  Eclairs, 424.
+    au café, 425.
+     " chocolate, 424.
+     " tea, 425.
+     " vanilla, 425.
+     " currants, 425.
+     " strawberries, 425.
+     " jellies, 426.
+     " essence, 425.
+  Economy, 23.
+  Eels, 136.
+    broiled, 136.
+    fried, 137.
+    roasted, 137.
+    in matelote, 137.
+    stuffed, 137.
+    in vol-au-vent, 419.
+  Eggs, 356.
+    beater, 24.
+    crumbs to fry, 30.
+    whites (to beat), 363.
+    Béchamel, 357.
+    boiled, 359.
+    fried, 360.
+    au gratin, 358.
+    à la tripe, 362.
+     "   neige, 362.
+    poached, 362.
+    scrambled, 360.
+    stuffed, 358.
+    Lyonnaise, 357.
+    sur le plat, etc., 360.
+    in matelote, 361.
+    fricassée, 357.
+    with vegetables, 359, 361.
+      "  cheese, 357, 358.
+      "  ham, etc., 359.
+      "  fines herbes, 357.
+      "  sauces, 358.
+    garniture, 115.
+    in salad, 350.
+    Egg-plant, 323.
+    Endive, 320.
+    in salad, 348.
+  Entrées, 462.
+  Entremets, 463.
+  Epigramme, 199.
+  Errors in cooking, 24.
+  Escalops, 158, 206.
+  Essence of beef, 52.
+    spinach, 52.
+
+  Fanchonnettes, 416.
+  Fans, 416.
+  Farces, 113.
+    bread, 113.
+    cabbage, 113.
+    combs, 113.
+    croutons, 114.
+    duxelle, 114.
+    egg, 115.
+    financière, 115.
+    liver, 115.
+    Macédoine, 115.
+    mushroom, 116.
+    onion, 116.
+    quenelles, 116.
+    salpicon, 117.
+    truffles, 117.
+  Fat (chicken, etc.), 29.
+    to clarify, 29.
+    for frying, 29.
+  Fecula, 76.
+  Fennel, 25.
+  Feuilletés, 413.
+    à la Condé, 414.
+  Figs, 25.
+  Fillet, 168.
+  Fines herbes, 25.
+  Fish, 125.
+    to keep, 33.
+    quality, 35.
+    to select, 125.
+     " clean for boiling, 125.
+     "      "    baking, etc., 125.
+    same species, 125.
+    to know when cooked enough, 126.
+     " improve, 126.
+     " bone, 126.
+     " skin, 126.
+     " decorate, 127.
+    kettle, 127.
+    baked, 128.
+    balls, 128.
+    boiled, 129.
+    broiled, 129.
+    cold, 144.
+    fried, 129.
+    à la Orly, 130.
+    roasted, 130.
+    sauté, 131.
+    stewed, 131.
+    stuffed, 131.
+    à la crème, 136.
+    anchovy butter, 129.
+       "    sauce, 135, 136.
+    Béchamel, 136.
+    Bordelaise, 143.
+    Bretonne, 135.
+    caper-sauce, 130, 135, 136.
+    court-bouillon, 135.
+    cream-sauce, 136.
+    egg-sauce, 136.
+    fines-herbes sauce, 136.
+    genèvoise-sauce, 135.
+    genoise-sauce, 135.
+    gratin-sauce, 132, 135.
+    Hollandaise sauce, 130, 135, 136.
+    Italienne sauce, 135.
+    Maître d'hôtel sauce, 129, 136.
+    matelote sauce, 132, 135.
+    Mayonnaise, 130.
+    piquante, 130.
+    poivrade, 130.
+    rémolade, 130.
+    Tartar, 135.
+    tomato, 130, 135, 136.
+    vinaigrette, 134-136.
+    bass, 130, 132.
+    black-fish, 130, 132.
+    blue-fish, 130, 132.
+    cod, 136.
+     " (salt), 145.
+    eels, 132, 136.
+    flounder, 130, 137.
+    haddock, 136.
+    halibut, 136.
+    herring, 130.
+     " (salt), 147.
+    mackerel, 135.
+     "   (salt), 148.
+    pike, 130, 132, 139.
+    porgy, 130, 132.
+    ray, 139.
+    salmon, 140.
+    shad, 142.
+    sheep's-head, 142.
+    skate, 139.
+    trout, 132, 139.
+    turbot, 143, 144.
+    white-fish, 130.
+    clams, 159.
+    lobster, 149, 153.
+    oysters, 155.
+    floating island, 362.
+      Allemande sauce, 137.
+      baked, 137.
+      Normande, 137.
+       "   another, 138.
+      boned and fried, 139.
+  Flour, 25.
+  Foies-gras, 25.
+  Fondue, 362.
+  Food, 22.
+  Fox, 297.
+  Frangipane, 390.
+  Fricandeau, 211.
+  Fritters, 393.
+  Frogs, 149.
+  Fromage à la crème, 383.
+  Fruit, 406.
+    corer, 26.
+    candied, 403.
+    glazed, 394.
+    iced, 397.
+    for dessert, 401.
+    preserved, 353.
+     "   in liquor, 405.
+  Frying, 11.
+    batter for, 30.
+    fat     " 29.
+    lard    " 28.
+    directions for, 11.
+    eggs and crumbs for, 30.
+
+  Galantine, 26.
+  Galette, 416, 450.
+    du gymnase, 416.
+  Game, 276.
+    pie, 434.
+  Garlic, 25.
+  Garnish, 113.
+  Garnishing, 113.
+  Garnitures, 113.
+  Génoise, 450.
+    with almonds, etc., 451.
+     "   chocolate, etc., 451.
+  Gibelotte, 293.
+  Giblets, 273.
+  Glazing, 26.
+  Godiveau, 117.
+  Goose, 268.
+    apple-sauce, etc., 268.
+  Gooseberries in jelly, 386.
+  Gosling, 268.
+  Grapes, 402.
+    in jelly, 406.
+    glazed, 397.
+  Gravy of meat, 55.
+    fish, 101.
+  Grouse, 280.
+  Guinea-fowl, 268.
+
+  Haddock, 136.
+  Halibut, 136.
+  Ham, 228.
+    boiled, 228.
+    in hors-d'oeuvre, 228.
+    with purée, 229.
+    decorated, 230.
+    roasted, 229.
+    with sauces, 230, 231.
+  Hard cake, 429.
+  Hare, 280-282.
+  Hazel-nut butter, 119.
+  Head-cheese, 234.
+  Herb broth, 91.
+  Herring, 130.
+    salt, 147.
+    red, 148.
+  Highholders, 279.
+  Hominy, 324.
+  Hors-d'oeuvres, 462.
+  Horse-radish, 462.
+  Hot weather, 21.
+
+  Ice-cream, 392.
+  Iced fruit, 397.
+  Icing, 53.
+  Ignorance in cooking, 24.
+  Indigestion, 26.
+  Isinglass, 26.
+  Italian pastes, 26.
+
+  Jam, 384.
+  Jellies, 53, 398.
+    sweet or wine, 398.
+    Macédoine, 399.
+    cold, 399.
+    meat, 53.
+    broth, 53.
+    chicken, 53.
+    turkey, 53.
+    calf's-foot, 53.
+    fruit, 406.
+  Jelly-bag, 27.
+  Juice or jus, 55.
+  Julienne, 73, 74.
+
+  Kid, 201.
+  Kitchen utensils, 27.
+  Kisses, 452.
+
+  Lady's-fingers, 427.
+  Lait de poule, 28.
+  Lamb, 198.
+    épigramme, 199.
+    fore-quarter, 198.
+    hind-quarter, 199.
+    entire, 200.
+    cold, 200.
+    feet, 201.
+    kidneys, 201.
+  Lapwing, 279.
+  Lard, 28.
+  Larding, 31.
+    needle, 31.
+  Leaven, 32.
+  Leeks, 324.
+  Lemon in compote, 386.
+    iced, 398.
+    pie, 441.
+  Lemonade, 44.
+  Lentils, 324.
+    purée, 120.
+    soup, 81.
+  Lettuce, 324.
+    in salad, 348.
+  Lima beans, 309.
+  Liver, 115.
+  Lobster, 149.
+    to boil, 150.
+    bisque, 70.
+    croquettes, 152.
+    butter, 118.
+    fried, 152.
+      another, 152.
+    in bouchées, 420
+     "  vol-au-vent, 419.
+     "  pie, 439.
+     "  salad, 151.
+         another, 151.
+     "  the shell, 150.
+    scalloped, 152.
+  Loin, 213.
+  Lunch, 464.
+
+  Macaroni, 370.
+    croquettes, 372.
+    au gratin, 370.
+    Italienne, 371.
+    Napolitaine, 371.
+    potage, 77.
+  Macaroons, 451.
+    with chocolate, 451.
+  Macédoine jelly, 399.
+    salad, 352.
+    omelet, 369.
+    garniture, 115.
+  Mackerel, 135.
+    salt, 148.
+    Spanish, 135.
+  Madeleines, 452.
+  Marmalades, 401.
+  Matelote, 132-134.
+  Meadow-lark, 279.
+  Meat, 35
+    to cook, 32.
+     " keep, 33.
+    pies, 433.
+    jellies, 53.
+    gravy, 55.
+  Melons, 55.
+    iced, 398.
+    melted butter, 119.
+  Meringues, 452.
+    apple, 379.
+    Chantilly, 453.
+    Swiss, 453.
+  Meunière, 56.
+  Mince-pie, 441.
+  Mint, 56.
+  Miroton, 176.
+  Mixing, 12.
+  Mock-turtle soup, 86.
+  Motto, 43.
+  Moulds, 34.
+  Muffins, 432.
+  Mulberries, 386, 406.
+  Muscles, 153, 154.
+  Mushrooms, 325, 327.
+    broiled, 326.
+    purée, 123.
+    catsup, 337.
+    garniture, 116.
+  Mustard, 348.
+  Mutton, 184.
+    baked, 185.
+    roasted, 184.
+      decorated, 185.
+      with vegetables, 185.
+    haricot, 186.
+    breast broiled, 186.
+      with sauces, 187.
+      on purées, 187.
+    chops, broiled, 187.
+      with vegetables, 188.
+      in papillotes, 188.
+      with sauces, 188.
+      sautées, etc., 187.
+    leg, 190.
+      boiled, 192.
+      decorated, 191.
+      with vegetables, 190.
+        "  currant-jelly, 190.
+        "  sauces, 190, 191.
+      stewed, 191.
+      cold, 192.
+      baked, 190.
+      roasted, 190.
+      with purée, 190.
+    neck, 187.
+    saddle, 193.
+      baked, 193.
+      roasted, etc., 193.
+    shoulder, 192.
+      boiled, 193.
+      boned, 192.
+      stuffed, 192.
+      on purées, 192.
+      roasted, 192.
+      with sauces, 193.
+    cold, in vinaigrette, 193, 194.
+         "   croquettes, 186.
+    brain, etc., 194.
+
+  Nasturtium, 350.
+  Nougat, 453.
+  Nouilles, 375.
+
+  Oil, 347.
+  Oiled paper, 18.
+  Okra, 88.
+  Olives, 34.
+  Omelet, 363, 364.
+    Célestine, 366.
+    Macédoine, 369.
+    soufflée, 369.
+    aux fines herbes, 366.
+    au naturel, 366.
+    with bacon, 366.
+      "  fruit, 365.
+      "  cheese, 367.
+      "  ham, etc., 368.
+      "  kidneys, 367.
+      "  lobster, 367.
+      "  mushrooms, 367.
+      "  oysters and fish, 370.
+      "  rum, 368.
+      "  sorrel, 367.
+      "  sugar, 367.
+      "  sweetmeats, 370.
+      "  vegetables, 366.
+  Onions, 327.
+    glazed, 328.
+    in purée, 123.
+     " garniture, 116.
+     " salad, 351.
+    pickled, 353.
+  Opossum, 297.
+  Orangeade, 44.
+  Oranges, compote, 386.
+    glazed, 394.
+    iced, 398.
+    preserved, 405.
+    salad, 352.
+    pie, 440.
+  Order of dishes, 461.
+  Osmazome, 34.
+  Otter, 297.
+  Oysters, 155.
+    raw, 155.
+    in bouchées, 421.
+     " patties, 421.
+     " vol-au-vent, 419.
+     " poulette, 158.
+    broiled, 157.
+    fried, 156.
+    roasted, 157.
+    stewed, 158.
+    scalloped, 157.
+    à la Washington, 158.
+    pickled, 158.
+    soup, 90.
+  Oyster-plant, 342.
+
+  Pain perdu, 394.
+  Pains of game, 438.
+  Panade, 56.
+  Pancakes, 431, 454.
+  Pap, 56.
+  Paper, buttered, 18.
+    oiled, 18.
+  Papillotes, 210.
+  Parsley, 35.
+  Parsnip, 328.
+    sauté, 328.
+    stewed, 329.
+  Partridge, 282.
+  Paste, 410.
+    puff, 410-413.
+    for meat-pies, 434.
+  Pastry, 408.
+    bag, 36.
+  Pâte à choux, 422.
+  Pâté, 433.
+    de foies-gras, 25.
+  Patties (bouchées), 420.
+  Peacock, 282.
+  Peaches, baked, 401.
+    in compote, 385.
+     " jelly, 406.
+     " pie, 440.
+     " salad, 352.
+     iced, 397.
+     preserved, 401.
+     candied, 403.
+  Pears, in compote, 386.
+        "   salad, 352.
+    candied, 404.
+    glazed, 396.
+    iced, 397.
+    preserved, 402.
+    syrup, 380.
+  Peas (green), 329.
+    boiled, 329.
+    au jus, 330.
+    with ham, etc., 330.
+      "  sugar, 330.
+    in purée, 121.
+    (canned), 330.
+    (dry), 330.
+    (split), 330.
+    in soup, 80.
+    preserved, 354.
+  Pepper, 35.
+  Perch, 132, 135.
+  Petits fours, 410.
+    pains, 426.
+      au chocolat, etc., 424.
+  Pheasant, 282.
+  Pickerel, 139.
+  Pickled cucumber, 355.
+  Pickles, 353.
+  Pies, 433.
+    decorated, 435.
+    fruit, 440.
+    meat, 437.
+    fish, 439.
+    game, 436.
+    mince, 441.
+    pot, 442.
+  Pig's feet, 232.
+    head, 233.
+    kidneys, 234.
+    (sucking), 235, 236.
+    tongue, 234.
+  Pigeons, 269.
+    baked, 271.
+    broiled, 269.
+    fried, 272.
+    roasted, 270.
+    stewed, 270.
+    stuffed, 270.
+    in chartreuse, 269.
+     " compote, 272.
+     " crapaudine, 273.
+    with vegetables, 269.
+    pie, 436.
+  Pike, 139.
+    génoise sauce, 139.
+    with different sauces, 135, 136.
+    in matelote, 132-134.
+    roasted, 130.
+  Pine-apple, 352.
+    glazed, 397.
+    iced, 398.
+    in compote, 386.
+     " fritters, 393.
+    syrup, 380.
+  Pithiviers, 415.
+  Plover, 279.
+  Plums, 402.
+    candied, 404.
+    glazed, 397.
+    iced, 397.
+    in jelly, 406.
+     " marmalade, 386.
+     " pie, 440.
+  Plum-pudding, 447.
+  Poached eggs, 362.
+  Pommées, 414.
+  Porgy, 132, 135.
+  Pork, 226.
+    chine, 226.
+    cutlets, 227.
+    leg, 228.
+    salt, 231.
+    ham, 228.
+    ears, etc., 232.
+  Porte manteau, 414.
+  Potages, 61.
+    broth for, 62.
+    chicken broth, etc., 65.
+    veal, 68.
+    vegetables, 69.
+    fish, 65.
+    made quickly, 70.
+    bisque of lobster, 70.
+          "   crabs, 72.
+          "   craw-fish, 72.
+    bouillabaisse, 72.
+    consommé, 64.
+    Colbert, 73.
+    fancy, 77.
+    Julienne, 73, 74.
+    à la Brunoise, 74.
+       Monaco, 74.
+       régence, 75.
+       royale, 75.
+    au chasseur, 86.
+    Chinese, 83.
+    printanier, 75.
+    velouté, 75.
+    with arrow-root, 75.
+      "  barley, 76.
+      "  bread, 75.
+      "  corn-starch, 75.
+      "  carrots, 77.
+      "  fecula, 76.
+      "  gruel, 76.
+      "  giblets, 76.
+      "  Indian meal, 76.
+      "  Italian pastes, 78.
+      "  macaroni, 77-79.
+      "  mackerel, 77.
+      "  nouilles, 79.
+      "  potatoes, 79.
+      "  quenelles, 80.
+      "  rice, 80.
+      "  sago, 76.
+      "  semoule, 76.
+      "  tapioca, 76.
+      "  turnips, 80.
+      "  vermicelli, 77.
+    purée Chantilly, 81.
+     " à la Condé, 82.
+       "  " Crécy, 82.
+       "  " française, 81.
+       "  " reine, 84-85.
+       " of asparagus, 82.
+       "  " artichokes, 82.
+       "  " beans, 81.
+       "  " cauliflowers, 82.
+       "  " chestnuts, 82.
+       "  " corn 83.
+       "  " lentils, 81.
+       "  " Lima, 81.
+       "  " peas, 80.
+       "  " potatoes, 81.
+       "  " pumpkins, 81.
+       "  " squash, 82.
+       "  " tomatoes, 83, 84.
+       "  " turnips, 82.
+       "  " wheat, 82.
+       "  " fowls, 85.
+    Soup maigre, 85.
+      mock-turtle, 86.
+      sportsman's, 86.
+      turtle, 87.
+      clam, 92.
+      rice, 88.
+      beef and mutton, 86.
+      muscle, 92.
+      okra, 88.
+      ox-cheek, 89.
+       " tail, 89.
+      oyster, 90.
+      pot-au-feu, 61.
+      sheep's-tail, 89.
+      sorrel, 89.
+      with cabbage, 90.
+        "  cauliflower, 91.
+        "  cheese, 91.
+        "  herbs, 91.
+        "  leeks, 92.
+        "  milk, 91.
+        "  onions, 88.
+      Allemande, 92, 93.
+      Indian, 93.
+      Polish, 93.
+      Russian, 94.
+      Spanish, 95, 96.
+  Potatoes, 330.
+    boiled, 331.
+    steamed, 331.
+    Allemande, 332.
+    Anglaise, 332.
+    Barigoule, 332.
+    Béchamel, 332.
+    broiled, 332.
+    duchesse, 339.
+    française, 333.
+    fried, 332.
+    Hollandaise, 333.
+    Lyonnaise, 334.
+    Maître d'hôtel, 334.
+    mashed, 335.
+    Parisienne, 332.
+    Polonaise, 335.
+    sautées, 336.
+    soufflées, 336.
+    stuffed, 337.
+    swelled, 333.
+    in balls, 333, 338.
+     " cakes, 338.
+     " croquettes, 338.
+     " matelote, 339.
+     " provençale, 336.
+     " purée, 121.
+    salad, 351.
+    with bacon, 339.
+      "  butter, 339.
+      "  cream, etc., 340.
+    soup, 81.
+    sweet, 340.
+  Pot-au-feu, 61.
+  Poultry, 237.
+  Pound cake, 432.
+  Prairie hen, 282.
+    baked, 282.
+    boned, 288.
+    broiled, 283.
+    preserved, 46.
+    roasted, 286.
+    sauté, 287.
+    stewed, 287.
+    with sauces, 287.
+      "  vegetables, 283, 284.
+      "  currant-jelly, 287.
+      "  garnitures, 287.
+      "  mushrooms, 287.
+      "  oranges, 287.
+    hunter-like, 287.
+    larded, 284.
+    in chartreuse, 284
+     " crapaudine, 287.
+     " croquettes, 288.
+     " fricassée, 287.
+     " pie, 436.
+     " purée, 119.
+     " salad, 288.
+     " salmis, 288.
+     " terreen, 438.
+  Prawns, 154.
+  Preface, 3.
+  Preserves of berries, 402.
+    of fruits, 401.
+     " meat, 46.
+     " vegetables, 353.
+  Prunes, 401.
+    glazed, 397.
+    pie, 440.
+  Puddings, 442.
+    bread, 445.
+    cabinet, 445.
+    macaroni, 447.
+    plum, 447.
+    tapioca, etc., 447.
+    vermicelli, 446.
+    sauces, 111.
+  Puff-paste, 410-413.
+  Pumpkins, 340.
+  Punch, 407.
+    Roman, 408, 463.
+  Purées, of fruits,
+         "   vegetables, 120-124.
+         "   meat, 119.
+  Purslain, 340.
+
+  Quail, 288.
+    baked, 288.
+    roasted, 289.
+      vegetables, 290.
+    in chartreuse, 290.
+     " pie, 436.
+    hunter-like, 289.
+    preserved, 46.
+    in grape-vine leaves, 290.
+  Quality of fish, 35.
+    of meat, etc., 35.
+  Quenelles, 117.
+  Quinces, preserved, 402.
+    in marmalade, 387.
+     " jelly, 406.
+
+  Rabbit, 200.
+    baked, 291.
+    larded, 291.
+    roasted, 293.
+    sauté, 294.
+    stewed, 294.
+    in chartreuse, 291.
+     " civet, 291.
+     " croquettes, 292.
+     " gibelotte, 293.
+     " Marengo, 293.
+     " pie, 436.
+     " vol-au-vent, 420.
+    with olives, 293.
+      "  peas, 294.
+      "  currant-jelly, 292.
+      "  sauces, 291, 294.
+     sportsman-like, 294.
+     cold, 295.
+  Raccoon, 297.
+  Radishes, 341.
+  Rail, 279.
+  Raisiné, 402.
+  Raisins, 57.
+  Raspberries, compote, 386.
+    jelly, 406.
+  Raw materials, 36.
+  Ray, 139.
+    au beurre noir, 140.
+  Red herring, 148.
+  Reed-bird, 279.
+  Relevés, 462.
+  Rhubarb, 341.
+    pie, 441.
+  Rice, 372.
+    in border, 373.
+    cake, 373.
+    croquettes, 373.
+    fritters, 374.
+    soufflé, 374.
+    soup, 80.
+    water, 375.
+    with fruit, 374.
+  Rice-bird, 279.
+  Rissoles, 416.
+  Roasting, 12.
+  Robins, 279.
+  Rolls, 458.
+  Roman punch, 408.
+  Rôts, 463.
+  Roux, 109.
+  Rum cakes, 430.
+
+  Sage, 35.
+  Sago, 76.
+  Saint-Honoré, 423.
+  Salads, 347.
+    of greens, 348.
+     " fruits, 352.
+    of poultry, 256.
+     " game, 288.
+     " fish, 352.
+  Salmis, 296.
+  Salmon, 140.
+    broiled, 142.
+    in fricandeau, 140.
+     " Genèvoise, 141.
+     " hors-d'oeuvre, 352.
+     " papillotes, 140.
+     " pie, 439.
+     " salad, 141.
+     " scallops, 141.
+    caper-sauce, 136.
+    court bouillon, 140.
+    maître d'hôtel, 140.
+    roasted, 130.
+    salt, 146, 147.
+    smoked, 147.
+  Salpicon, 117.
+  Salsify, 342.
+    Béchamel, etc., 342.
+  Sandwiches, 57.
+  Sardines, 145.
+  Sauce, 97.
+    Allemande, 98.
+    anchovy, 99.
+    apple, 99.
+    Béchamel, 99.
+    blonde, 100.
+    bread, 100.
+    brown, 100.
+    caper, 100.
+    celery, 100.
+    Champagne, 105.
+    Colbert, 100.
+    coulis, 101.
+    cranberry, 99.
+    cream, 102.
+    craw-fish, 105.
+    cucumber, 102.
+    currant, 99.
+    diplomat, 102.
+    egg, 102.
+    Espagnolle 102.
+    essence, 103.
+    fines herbes, 103.
+    fish, 103.
+    Genèvoise, 141.
+    Génoise, 103.
+    gravy, 55.
+    Hollandaise, 104.
+    Indian, 104.
+    Italian, 104.
+    juice, 55.
+    lobster, 105.
+    Madeira, 105.
+    maître d'hôtel, 105.
+    matelote, 132, 133.
+    Mayonnaise, 105.
+    muscle, 111.
+    mushroom, 106.
+    oyster, 111.
+    Parisienne, 106.
+    peach, 99.
+    piquante, 106.
+    poivrade, 107.
+    Polonaise, 107.
+    poulette, 107.
+    prawn, 105.
+    princesse, 108.
+    provençale, 108.
+    ravigote, 108.
+    raspberry, 99.
+    rémolade, 109.
+    Robert, 108.
+    roux, 109.
+    shallot, 109.
+    shrimp, 105.
+    soubise, 109.
+    suprème, 109.
+    tarragon, 118.
+    Tartar, 106.
+    tomato, 110.
+    truffle, 110.
+    velouté, 110.
+    white, 111.
+    vinaigrette, 110.
+    for blanc mange, 381.
+     "  puddings, 111, 112.
+     "  Savarin, 430.
+  Saucissons, 19.
+  Sausages, 19.
+  Sausage-meat, 57.
+  Sautéing, 13.
+  Savarin, 430.
+  Scallops, 158.
+    on the shell, 159.
+    of salmon, 141.
+     " veal, 206.
+  Scalloped-knife, 36.
+  Seasoning, 14.
+  Semoule, 76.
+  Shad, 142.
+    broiled, 142.
+    à la Chambord, 142.
+    au gratin, 142.
+    in provençale, 142.
+    with sorrel, 142.
+    stuffed, 137.
+    roasted, 130.
+  Shallots, 37.
+  Sheep's brain, 194.
+    feet, 194.
+    kidneys, 196.
+    tongue, 197.
+  Sheep's-head fish, 142, 143.
+  Short-cake, 432.
+  Shrimps, 154.
+  Simmering, 14.
+  Skate, 139.
+  Skewers, 37.
+  Skirret, 342.
+  Skunk, 298.
+  Small birds, 278, 279.
+  Small fish, 126.
+  Smelts, 129.
+  Smoked tongue, 183.
+  Snails, 303.
+  Snipe, 279, 295.
+  Sole, 137.
+  Sorrel, 342.
+    au jus, 343.
+    in purée, 343.
+     " salad, 350.
+     " soup, 89.
+    preserved, 343.
+  Soufflés, 400.
+  Soups, 61.
+  Sour-krout, 315.
+  Souse, 58.
+  Spanish mackerel, 135.
+  Sparrow-grass, 307.
+  Spices, 38.
+  Spinach, 343.
+    au beurre, etc., 345.
+     " jus, 344.
+     " sucre, 344.
+    à la crème, 344.
+    essence, 52.
+  Sponge cake, 431.
+  Sportsman's soup, 86.
+  Sprats, 145.
+  Sprouts, 345.
+  Squash, 340.
+  Squirrel, 299.
+  Steaks, 171.
+    turtle, 88.
+  Sterlet, 143.
+  Stewing, 14.
+  Stirring, 39.
+  Straining, 39.
+  Strawberry, glazed, 396.
+    iced, 398.
+    in compote, 386.
+     " fritters, 393.
+     " jelly, 406.
+     " salad, 352.
+     " short-cake, 432.
+  Stuffing of birds, 253.
+    fish, 131.
+  Sturgeon, 140.
+  Succory, 320.
+  Succotash, 321.
+  Sucking-pig, 235.
+    baked, 235.
+    boned, 236.
+    roasted, 235.
+    decorated, 236.
+  Sugar, 39, 376.
+    burnt, 47.
+    cooked, 376.
+    dusted, 21.
+    pulverized, 39.
+    syrup, 376.
+  Sun-fish, 132.
+  Supper, 464.
+  Syrup for compotes, 384.
+    sugar, 376.
+    apple, 380.
+  Sweetbreads, 223.
+  Sweet dishes, 376.
+    potatoes, 340.
+
+  Tapioca, 447.
+  Tarragon, 40.
+  Tarte, 441.
+  Tartelettes, 414.
+  Tasting, 14.
+  Tea, 58.
+    cake, 433.
+    (meal), 464.
+  Tench, 132.
+  Tenderloin, 168.
+  Terrapin, 87.
+  Terreen, 438.
+  Thrush, 279.
+  Thermometer, 410.
+  Thyme, 35.
+  Tin tubes, 40.
+  Toasts, 59.
+  Tomatoes, 345.
+    salad, 351.
+    stuffed, 345.
+    stewed, 345.
+    preserved, 354.
+    catsup, 354.
+  Tongue, 178.
+  Tripe, 181.
+  Trout, 139.
+    génoise sauce, 139.
+    in matelote, 132-134.
+    with sauces, 135, 136.
+  Troutlet, 139.
+  Truffles, 40.
+    garniture, 117.
+  Tunny, 143, 147.
+  Turbot, 143, 144.
+    Bordelaise, 143.
+    in salad, 144.
+     " vol-au-vent, 419.
+     " pie, 439.
+    roasted, 130.
+    cold, 144.
+    in hors-d'oeuvre, 352.
+  Turkey, 257.
+    baked, 258.
+    boiled, 257.
+    boned, 260.
+    preserved, 46.
+    roasted, 258.
+    stewed, 259.
+    stuffed, 259, 260.
+    in croquettes, 264.
+     " pie, 437.
+     " salad, 264.
+    with cranberry-sauce, 259.
+      "  oyster-sauce, 259.
+      "  currant-jelly, 259.
+    cold, 263.
+    caponed, 264.
+  Turnips, 346.
+    Béchamel, etc., 346.
+    glazed, 346.
+    au jus, 346.
+    with sugar, 346.
+  Turtle, 87.
+
+  Vanilla, 41.
+  Veal, 202.
+    baked, 205.
+    blanquette, 205.
+    broiled, 208.
+    broth, 68.
+    croquettes, 206.
+    ragout, 206.
+    roasted, 203.
+    in scallops, 206.
+     " vol-au-vent, 420.
+    with vegetables, 204.
+    decorated, 204.
+    breast, with peas, 207.
+      in matelote, 208.
+      stewed, 207.
+    neck, 206.
+    cold, 214.
+    cutlets, 208.
+      baked, 209.
+      sautées, 209.
+      with sauces, 210.
+        "  garnitures, 209.
+      in papillotes, 210.
+      with mushrooms, 209.
+      en Bellevue, 210.
+    fricandeau, 211.
+      au jus, 211.
+      financière, 211.
+      with peas, etc., 211.
+    loin, or leg, stewed, 213.
+      baked, 205.
+      roasted, 203.
+      decorated, 204.
+    shoulder, on purées, etc., 212.
+      baked, 212.
+      boned, 212.
+      roasted, 212.
+      stuffed, 212.
+      en Bellevue, 213.
+    brain, etc., 214.
+      pie, 437.
+  Vegetables, 305.
+    spoons, 41.
+  Venison, 299.
+    baked, 300.
+    in civet, 300.
+    cutlets, 300.
+      with sauces, 301.
+    haunch, 301.
+    saddle, with currant-jelly, 302.
+    shoulder, 302.
+      stewed, 302.
+      with truffles, etc., 303.
+    cold, 303.
+  Vermicelli, 77, 446.
+  Vinegar, 347.
+  Vol-au-vent, 417.
+    of fish, 419.
+     " oysters, 419.
+     " chicken, 419.
+     " veal, 420.
+     " game, 420.
+     " fruits, 420.
+     " sweatmeats, 420.
+
+  Waffles, 454.
+  Walnuts, 351.
+  Water, 42.
+  Watercress, 347, 349.
+  Weak-fish, 132.
+  Welsh rarebit, 60.
+  White-fish, 140.
+  White pepper, 35.
+  Whortleberry, 386, 440.
+  Wines, 42.
+  Woodchuck, 297.
+  Woodcock, 279.
+    in pie, 436.
+     " salmis, 296.
+  Woodpecker, 279.
+
+  Yellow-birds, 279.
+
+  Zéphyrs, 453.
+
+
+  THE END.
+
+
+
+
+  GASTRONOMY AND HOUSEKEEPING.
+
+       *     *     *     *     *
+
+
+    =Household Hints=: A Book of Home Receipts and Home Suggestions.
+    By Mrs. Emma W. Babcock. Flexible cloth, with illuminated
+    design. 12mo. 60 cents.
+
+Contents: I. Introductory; II. Bread, Tea, and Coffee; III. Meats,
+soups, and Fish; IV. Vegetables, Cereals, and Salads; V. Puddings and
+Pies; VI. Pickles; VII. Cake, Custard, and Candy; VIII. Fruit; IX.
+Miscellaneous Hints; X. Talks upon Various Subjects.
+
+
+    =All Around the House=; or, How to make Homes happy. By Mrs. Henry
+    Ward Beecher. 12mo. Cloth, $1.50.
+
+This volume, as its title implies, consists of papers upon topics
+concerning the ordering and well-being of the household. It contains, in
+addition to a large number of receipts for cooking, and rules for
+marketing, numerous hints for the management of servants and children,
+directions as to furnishing, repairing, cleansing, etc., and information
+on all the innumerable things on which housekeepers need information,
+while, in addition to its usefulness as a guide to practical knowledge
+and economical methods, it is eminently interesting and suggestive, in
+its various essays on home topics, to every one concerned in the welfare
+and happiness of the household.
+
+
+    =Hand-book of Practical Cookery=, for Ladies and Professional
+    Cooks. Containing the whole Science and Art of preparing Human
+    Food. By P. BLOT. 12mo, cloth, $1.75.
+
+
+    =Breakfast, Dinner, and Tea=; viewed Classically, Poetically, and
+    Practically. A new edition. Square 12mo, cloth, $1.50.
+
+
+    =Half-Tints=: Table d'Hôte and Drawing-room. 12mo, cloth, 75
+    cents.
+
+
+    =Lessons in Cookery=: Hand-book of the National Training-School
+    for Cookery, South Kensington, London; to which is added the
+    Principles of Diet in Health and Disease, by Thomas K. Chambers,
+    M. D. Edited by Eliza A. Youmans. 12mo, cloth, $1.50.
+
+The novelty and merit of the work are in the method by which it secures
+_successful_ practice. Its lessons, the plainest, easiest, and fullest,
+anywhere to be found, have grown out of a long and painstaking
+experience, in finding out the best plan of teaching beginners and
+ignorant persons how to cook well. They were perfected through the
+stupidities, blunders, mistakes, questionings, and difficulties, of
+hundreds of pupils, of all ages, grades, and capacities, under the
+careful direction of intelligent, practical teachers.
+
+
+    =Hand-book of Dining=; or, Corpulency and Leanness Scientifically
+    Considered. By Brillat Savarin. Translated by L. F. Simpson.
+    12mo, $1.00.
+
+
+    =Social Etiquette of New York=. New and enlarged edition.
+    Containing two additional chapters--"Extended Visits," and
+    "Customs and Costumes at Theatres, Concerts, and Operas"--with
+    the chapter on "Etiquette of Weddings" rewritten in accordance
+    with the latest fashionable usage. 18mo, cloth, gilt, $1.00.
+
+
+    =Hand-book of Household Science=. By Professor E. L. Youmans.
+    12mo, cloth, $1.75.
+
+This work has been prepared to meet a long-acknowledged want in our
+homes and schools. There is a strong and growing demand for that kind of
+knowledge which can be made available in the daily operations of
+familiar life. Various books have been prepared which cross the field of
+domestic science at different points, but this is the first work that
+traverses and occupies the whole ground. Hardly a page can be opened
+that does not convey information interesting and valuable to every
+person who dwells in a house. The work will be found not only of high
+practical utility, but captivating to the student, and unequaled in the
+interest of its recitations.
+
+       *     *     *     *     *
+
+New York: D. APPLETON & CO., 1, 3, & 5 Bond Street.
+
+
+
+
+  BOOKS FOR EVERY HOUSEHOLD.
+
+       *     *     *     *     *
+
+
+    =Cooley's Cyclopædia of Practical Receipts=, And Collateral
+    Information in the Arts, Manufactures, Professions, and Trades,
+    including Medicine, Pharmacy, and Domestic Economy. Designed as
+    a Comprehensive Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia, and General
+    Book of Reference for the Manufacturer, Tradesman, Amateur, and
+    Heads of Families. _Sixth edition_. Revised and partly rewritten
+    by Richard V. Tuson, Professor of Chemistry and Toxicology in
+    the Royal Veterinary College. Complete in two volumes, 8vo,
+    1,796 pages. With Illustrations. Price, $9.00.
+
+"The great characteristic of this work is its general usefulness. In
+covering such diverse subjects, the very best and most recent research
+seems to have been sought for, and the work is remarkable for
+intelligent industry. This very complete work can, then, be highly
+recommended as fulfilling to the letter what it purports to be--a
+cyclopædia of practical receipts."--_New York Times_.
+
+"It is a well-edited special work, compiled with excellent judgment for
+special purposes, which are kept constantly in mind. If it is more
+comprehensive than its title suggests, that is only because it is
+impossible to define the limits of its purpose with exactitude, or to
+describe its contents upon a title-page. Illustrations of the text are
+freely used, and the mechanical execution of the work is
+excellent."--_New York Evening Post._
+
+
+  The Chemistry of Common Life.
+
+    By the late Professor James F. W. Johnston. A new edition,
+    revised and enlarged, and brought down to the Present Time, by
+    Arthur Herbert Church, M. A., Oxon., author of "Food: its
+    Sources, Constituents, and Uses." Illustrated with Maps and
+    numerous Engravings on Wood. In one vol., 12mo, 592 pages.
+    Cloth. Price, $2.00.
+
+Summary of Contents.--The Air we Breathe; the Water we Drink; the Soil
+we Cultivate; the Plant we Rear; the Bread we Eat; the Beef we Cook; the
+Beverages we Infuse; the Sweets we Extract; the Liquors we Ferment; the
+Narcotics we Indulge in; the Poisons we Select; the Odors we Enjoy; the
+Smells we Dislike; the Colors we Admire; What we Breathe and Breathe
+for; What, How, and Why we Digest; the Body we Cherish; the Circulation
+of Matter.
+
+In the number and variety of striking illustrations, in the simplicity
+of its style, and in the closeness and cogency of its arguments,
+Professor Johnston's "Chemistry of Common Life" has as yet found no
+equal among the many books of a similar character which its success
+originated, and it steadily maintains its preëminence in the popular
+scientific literature of the day. In preparing this edition for the
+press, the editor had the opportunity of consulting Professor Johnston's
+private and corrected copy of "The Chemistry of Common Life," who had,
+before his death, gleaned very many fresh details, so that he was able
+not only to incorporate with his revision some really valuable matter,
+but to learn the kind of addition which the author contemplated.
+
+       *     *     *     *     *
+
+  _D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers_, 1, 3, & 5 _Bond St., New York_
+
+
+  =Transcriber's Notes:=
+  hyphenation, spelling and grammar have been preserved as in the original
+  Page 28, kept a ong time ==> kept a long time
+  Page 29, to bake game ==> to bake game.
+  Page 47, when proper y made ==> when properly made
+  Page 53, with good beef ==> with good beef.
+  Page 68, stalks of chewil ==> stalks of chervil
+  Page 78, place a ayer ==> place a layer
+  Page 83, when mash gently ==> then mash gently
+  Page 86, but ess nourishing ==> but less nourishing
+  Page 116, fresh mushroons and ==> fresh mushrooms and
+  Page 116, cooked, when add ==> cooked, then add
+  Page 157, excellent dish ==> excellent dish.
+  Page 205, hrow them in ==> throw them in
+  Page 218, with once ounce ==> with one ounce
+  Page 248, cooked, when add ==> cooked, then add
+  Page 253, yellow, when add ==> yellow, then add
+  Page 284, done, when dish ==> done, then dish
+  Page 297, following sauce pound ==> following sauce; pound
+  Page 334, and scolloped all ==> and scalloped all
+  Page 346, fifteen minutes ==> fifteen minutes.
+  Page 361, Procced as for eggs ==> Proceed as for eggs
+  Page 379, by squeezeing it ==> by squeezing it
+  Page 394, an inck thick. ==> an inch thick.
+  Page 400, tea, choco late, etc. ==> tea, chocolate, etc.
+  Page 404, one another; and ==> one an other; and
+  Page 416, with trim mings of ==> with trimmings of
+  Page 418/419, the cen tre, it ==> the centre, it
+  Page 443, atter are blamable ==> latter are blamable
+  Page 460, rots and entremets ==> rôts and entremets
+  Page 460, to spend. etc. ==> to spend, etc.
+  Page 461, Hôrs-d'oeuvres ==> hors-d'oeuvres
+  Page 474, sauteés, 336. ==> sautées, 336.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hand-Book of Practical Cookery for
+Ladies and Professional Cooks, by Pierre Blot
+
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hand-Book of Practical Cookery for Ladies
+and Professional Cooks, by Pierre Blot
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Hand-Book of Practical Cookery for Ladies and Professional Cooks
+
+Author: Pierre Blot
+
+Release Date: March 21, 2011 [EBook #35646]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKERY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Marcia Brooks, Ross Cooling and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Canada Team at
+http://www.pgdpcanada.net (This file was produced from
+images generously made available by The Internet
+Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+<h2>HAND-BOOK</h2>
+
+<h4>OF</h4>
+
+<h1>PRACTICAL COOKERY,</h1>
+
+<h4>FOR</h4>
+
+<h2>LADIES AND PROFESSIONAL COOKS.</h2>
+
+<h4>CONTAINING</h4>
+
+<h3><i>THE WHOLE SCIENCE AND ART OF PREPARING HUMAN FOOD.</i></h3>
+
+<br />
+<h4>BY</h4>
+
+<h2>PIERRE BLOT,</h2>
+
+<h4>PROFESSOR OF GASTRONOMY, AND FOUNDER OF THE NEW YORK COOKING ACADEMY.</h4>
+
+<br />
+<h4>"If ye be willing and obedient, ye shall eat the good of the land."</h4>
+<br />
+
+<h3>NEW YORK:<br />
+D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,<br />
+1, 3, <span class="smcap">and</span> 5 BOND STREET.<br />
+1884.</h3>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<h4><span class="smcap">Entered</span>, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by</h4>
+<h3>D. APPLETON &amp; CO.,</h3>
+<h4>In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
+Southern District of New York.</h4>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span>
+<h2>PREFACE.</h2>
+
+<p>Food is the most important of our wants; we cannot exist without it. The
+man who does not use his brain to select and prepare his food, is not
+above the brutes that take it in its raw state. It is to the physique
+what education is to the mind, coarse or refined. Good and well-prepared
+food beautifies the physique the same as a good and well-directed
+education beautifies the mind. A cook-book is like a book on chemistry,
+it cannot be used to any advantage if theory is not blended with
+practice. It must also be written according to the natural products and
+climate of the country in which it is to be used, and with a perfect
+knowledge of the properties of the different articles of food and
+condiments.</p>
+
+<p>Like many other books, it is not the size that makes it practical; we
+could have made this one twice as large as it is, without having added a
+single receipt to it, by only having given separate ones for pieces of
+meat, birds, fishes, etc., that are of the same kind and prepared
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>
+alike. All cook-books written by mere compilers, besides giving the same
+receipt several times, recommend the most absurd mixtures as being the
+best and of the "latest French style."</p>
+
+<p>Although cookery has made more progress within two or three years, in
+this country as well as in Europe, than it had since 1830, and although
+all our receipts are complete, practical, wholesome, and in accordance
+with progress, still they are simple. Our aim has been to enable every
+housekeeper and professional cook, no matter how inexperienced they may
+be, to prepare any kind of food in the best and most wholesome way, with
+economy, celerity, and taste; and also to serve a dinner in as orderly a
+manner as any steward can do.</p>
+
+<p>We did not intend to make a book, such as that of <span class="smcap">CAR&Egrave;ME</span>, which cannot
+be used at all except by cooks of very wealthy families, and with which
+one cannot make a dinner costing less than twenty dollars a head. Such a
+book is to housekeepers or plain cooks what a Latin dictionary is to a
+person of merely elementary education.</p>
+
+<p>If we give so many different ways of preparing the same article of food,
+it is not with a view to complicate cookery, but people's taste is in
+food as in dress, differing not only in the selection of colors, but
+also in shape; therefore, by our variety of dishes and our different
+styles of decorating them; by the ease that they can be prepared in the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>
+cheapest as well as in the most costly way, we think we have met all
+wants and all tastes. The wealthy, as well as those in limited
+circumstances, can use our receipts with the same advantage.</p>
+
+<p>Our division of cookery and the system of arranging <i>bills of fare</i>,
+contained in these pages, solve that great and perplexing question,
+especially for ladies, how to arrange a bill of fare for every season,
+to suit any number of guests, at a greater or less expense, as they may
+desire. Every one knows that money alone cannot make good dishes;
+however good the raw materials may be, they require proper preparations
+before being palatable and wholesome.</p>
+
+
+<h3>TO HOUSEKEEPERS AND COOKS.</h3>
+
+<p>A cook-book cannot be used like a dictionary; a receipt is like a rule
+of grammar: to comprehend it thoroughly, it is indispensable to
+understand others. The author, therefore, earnestly recommends to his
+readers to begin by perusing carefully the directions, etc., at the
+beginning of the book, and also the explanations given on and heading
+the different articles of food, before attempting the preparation of a
+dish for the first time. They will thus soon be able to prepare any dish
+by merely reading the receipt. If all the explanations necessary were
+given at every receipt, this work would have filled more than ten
+volumes like the present.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>
+<p>We are aware that the study of cookery is as uninviting and dry as the
+study of grammar at first; so is the study of every science and even
+art; but it becomes comparatively easy and interesting after a while.
+Mere flourish in a receipt would have the same effect as in a rule of
+grammar.</p>
+
+
+<h3>TO COOKS.</h3>
+
+<p>We think the following friendly recommendations will not be out of place
+here. They are in the interest of both the housekeeper and the cook:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Make use of every thing good.</p>
+
+<p>Waste nothing, however little it may be.</p>
+
+<p>Have no prejudices.</p>
+
+<p>Be careful, clean, and punctual.</p>
+
+<p>Always bear in mind that routine is the greatest enemy of
+progress, and that you have agreed to faithfully perform your
+daily duties for a certain consideration.</p>
+
+<p style="margin-left: 60%;">PIERRE BLOT.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">New York</span>, <i>August</i>, 1867.</p></div>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<table summary="CONTENTS" width="50%">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+<td class="tdr">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#COOKING">COOKING,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">9</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#DIRECTIONS">DIRECTIONS, EXPLANATIONS, ETC.,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#DIVERS_RECEIPTS">DIVERS RECEIPTS,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">44</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#POTAGES">POTAGES OR SOUPS,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">61</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#SAUCES">SAUCES,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">97</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#FARCES">FARCES AND GARNITURES,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">113</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#FISH">FISH,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">125</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#BEEF">BEEF,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">162</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#MUTTON">MUTTON,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">184</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#VEAL">VEAL,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">202</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#PORK">PORK,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">226</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#POULTRY">POULTRY,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">237</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#GAME">GAME,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">276</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#VEGETABLES">VEGETABLES,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">305</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#EGGS">EGGS, MACARONI, AND RICE,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">356</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#SWEET_DISHES">SWEET DISHES,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">376</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#PASTRY">PASTRY,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">409</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#BILLS">BILLS OF FARE,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">459</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"><a href="#INDEX">INDEX,</a></td>
+<td class="tdr">465</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="COOKING" id="COOKING"></a>COOKING.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The science and art of cooking may be divided into ten principal parts;
+the rest is all fancy. These ten parts are: <span class="smcap">Baking</span>, <span class="smcap">Boiling</span>, <span class="smcap">Broiling</span>,
+<span class="smcap">Frying</span>, <span class="smcap">Mixing</span>, <span class="smcap">Roasting</span>, <span class="smcap">Saut&eacute;ing</span>, <span class="smcap">Seasoning</span>, <span class="smcap">Simmering</span>, and <span class="smcap">Stewing</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Tasting is an adjunct to all.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baking.</i>&mdash;In baking, see that the furnace or oven be properly heated;
+some dishes require more heat than others. Look at the object in process
+of baking from time to time, and especially at the beginning, turn it
+round if necessary, in case it be heated more on one side than on the
+other, to prevent burning.</p>
+
+<p>In baking meat and fish, besides keeping the bottom of the pan covered
+with broth or water, place a piece of buttered paper over the object in
+the pan; it not only prevents it from burning, but acts as a
+self-basting operation, and keeps the top moist and juicy.</p>
+
+<p>If the top of cakes bake faster than the rest, place a piece of paper on
+it.</p>
+
+<p>In most of our receipts, we give the degree of heat necessary to bake
+the different objects; it will, no doubt, be found valuable information.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boiling.</i>&mdash;This is the most abused branch in cooking; we know that many
+good-meaning housewives and professional cooks boil things that ought
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>
+to be prepared otherwise, with a view to economy; but a great many do it
+through laziness. Boiling requires as much care as any other branch, but
+they do not think so, and therefore indulge in it.</p>
+
+<p>Another abuse is to boil fast instead of slowly. Set a small ocean of
+water on a brisk fire and boil something in it as fast as you can, you
+make much steam but do not cook faster; the degree of heat being the
+same as if you were boiling slowly.</p>
+
+<p>If the object you boil, and especially boil fast, contains any flavor,
+you evaporate it, and cannot bring it back.</p>
+
+<p>Many things are spoiled or partly destroyed by boiling, such as meat,
+coffee, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Water that has been boiled is inferior for cooking purposes, its gases
+and alkali being evaporated.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiling.</i>&mdash;Whatever you broil, grease the bars of the gridiron first.</p>
+
+<p>Broiling and roasting is the same thing; the object in process of
+cooking by either must be exposed to the heat on one side, and the other
+side to the air.</p>
+
+<p>Bear in mind that no one can broil or roast in an oven, whatever be its
+construction, its process of heating, or its kind of heat. An object
+cooked in an oven is baked.</p>
+
+<p>It is better to broil before than over the fire. In broiling before the
+fire, all the juice can be saved.</p>
+
+<p>In broiling by gas, there is a great advantage. The meat is placed under
+the heat, and as the heat draws the juice of the meat, the consequence
+is, that the juice being attracted upward, it is retained in the meat.</p>
+
+<p>A gas broiler is a square, flat drum, perforated on one side and placed
+over a frame.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>
+<p>Broiling on live coals or on cinders without a gridiron is certainly not
+better than with one, as believed by many; on the contrary, besides not
+being very clean, it burns or chars part of the meat.</p>
+
+<p>That belief comes from the fact that when they partook of meat prepared
+that way, it was with a sauce that generally accompanies hunters,
+fishermen, etc.,&mdash;<i>hunger</i>&mdash;the most savory of all savory sauces.</p>
+
+<p><i>Frying.</i>&mdash;That part of cooking is not as difficult as it is generally
+believed, and properly fried objects are good and do not taste greasy.</p>
+
+<p>To fry requires care, and nothing fried will taste greasy if it has been
+dropped in fat properly heated and in enough of it to immerse the
+object.</p>
+
+<p>When an object tastes greasy, it is not because it has been fried in
+grease, but because there was not enough of it, or because it was not
+properly heated; for, if heated enough it closes the pores of the object
+and carbonizes the exterior, so that it cannot absorb any.</p>
+
+<p><i>Directions for Frying.</i>&mdash;Prepare what you intend to fry according to
+the directions given in the different receipts.</p>
+
+<p>Have fat, lard, or oil in a pan, enough to immerse the object or objects
+intended to be fried.</p>
+
+<p>When the fat is hot enough (see below), place the object in a kind of
+wire basket made for that purpose, which drop in the fat and take off
+when the object is fried. It is handy, and there is no danger of
+breaking the object in taking it off.</p>
+
+<p>There are objects that require to be stirred or turned over while
+frying.</p>
+
+<p>Every time you fry any thing, take the fat from the fire, let it stand
+in a cool place for about five minutes, then turn it gently into a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>
+stone jar or pot through a strainer; let cool and put away. In turning
+the fat, lard, or oil into the jar, pour so that the dregs will be kept
+in the pan.</p>
+
+<p>To ascertain with accuracy when the fat, lard, or oil is hot enough to
+lay the things in the pan, dip a fork in cold water, the prongs only; so
+as to retain but one or two drops of water, which drops you let fall in
+the fat, and if it crackles, it is hot enough.</p>
+
+<p>Another way is, when jets of smoke come out of the fat.</p>
+
+<p>There are objects that require more heat than others, some that are more
+sightly when brown, and others when of a pale-yellow hue.</p>
+
+<p>If the object is desired brown, leave the pan on a brisk fire while it
+is frying; if otherwise, remove it to a slow or less brisk fire.</p>
+
+<p>Fat is not like water, which, no matter how fast you boil it, you cannot
+augment the degree of heat, while you can that of fat. If water, by
+boiling it fast, could be heated as much as fat, it would be used to fry
+in its stead, being cheaper.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mixing.</i>&mdash;In mixing, pay due attention to the quantities we give in the
+receipts; but as everybody has not the same taste, it is very easy to
+augment or diminish the quantity of salt, pepper, sugar, butter, etc.,
+so as to suit one's own taste.</p>
+
+<p>When the quantity is left to the judgment or taste of the cook, that is,
+when the expression <i>about so much</i> is made use of, it is not necessary
+then to have the exact quantity; a little more or a little less cannot
+spoil or partly destroy the dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasting.</i>&mdash;When an object is placed on the spit according to
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>
+directions, remember that it cannot be basted too often.</p>
+
+<p>The time necessary for roasting a piece of meat or any thing else,
+depends as much upon the fire as upon the nature of the meat. Meat
+especially requires to be placed very near the fire at first, and then
+put back by degrees.</p>
+
+<p>There is nearly as much difference between roasted and baked meat as
+there is between broiled and fried meat.</p>
+
+<p>It is generally admitted here, that English roast-beef is so superior to
+American roast-beef that it cannot be compared to it. It is not in the
+quality of the meat that the difference lies, but in the process of
+cooking.</p>
+
+<p>Meat cannot be roasted in an oven, be it in an ordinary or in a patented
+one.</p>
+
+<p>That peculiar flavor in roasted meat is produced by the air coming
+constantly in contact with the heated meat while revolving on the spit.</p>
+
+<p>Cold roasted meat, when desired to be served warm, is enveloped in
+buttered paper and placed on the spit just long enough to warm it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;ing.</i>&mdash;There is no word, that we know, in the English language,
+corresponding to the French word <i>saut&eacute;</i>. It differs from frying in
+this: that to fry any object requires fat enough to immerse that object;
+while to <i>saut&eacute;</i> it, requires just enough to prevent it from scorching.</p>
+
+<p>Vegetables, omelets, etc., are <i>saut&eacute;d</i>, and not fried.</p>
+
+<p>Meat or fish cooked in a frying-pan with a little butter or fat, is
+<i>saut&eacute;d</i>, and not fried; but the term fried is most generally used, the
+other being only known to practitioners.</p>
+
+<p>To <i>saut&eacute;</i> requires a brisk fire; the quicker an object is cooked by
+<i>saut&eacute;ing</i> the better.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>
+<p><i>Seasoning.</i>&mdash;This is the most difficult part in the science of cooking.
+To season is not difficult, but to season properly is quite another
+thing.</p>
+
+<p>It is not only necessary to know well how to stew or roast a peace of
+meat or any thing else, but to know how to season it, to be able to
+judge what quantity and what kind of spices can be used to season such
+or such a dish, to what extent all the spices used agree together, and
+what taste and flavor they will give to the object with which they are
+cooked; for, if not properly used, they may just as likely destroy the
+taste and flavor of the object as improve it.</p>
+
+<p>Some dishes require high and much seasoning, others just the contrary.
+With a good fire and a good spit, it is not necessary to be a thorough
+cook to roast a piece well, but the cook is indispensable to mix the
+gravy or sauce with the proper seasonings.</p>
+
+<p><i>Simmering.</i>&mdash;Simmering differs from boiling only in the amount of heat
+allowed under the boiler, kettle, or pan. To simmer, is to boil as
+gently and slowly as possible.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewing.</i>&mdash;To stew properly it is necessary to have a moderate fire and
+as even as possible. A brisk fire would cause much steam to evaporate,
+which steam is the flavor of the object stewed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tasting.</i>&mdash;This is the most difficult, and at the same time the most
+delicate, part of seasoning; it is by tasting that we ascertain if we
+have seasoned properly.</p>
+
+<p>In this only two of the senses are engaged, and one of those much more
+than the other.</p>
+
+<p>A person may have good feeling, hearing, and sight, and for all that
+would not be fit for preparing the simplest dish; the senses of smelling
+and tasting are the ones most required, and without which no one can
+cook properly.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>
+<p>For these reasons we will take the liberty to recommend to housekeepers,
+when they have new cooks, to instruct them on their taste, and always
+let them know when they have seasoned too much or too little. To the
+cooks we will say, do not season according to your own taste, if the
+persons for whom you cook do not like it.</p>
+
+<p>If the housekeeper would give his or her candid and frank opinion of the
+dishes to the cook, and if the latter be not stubborn, the best results
+might be obtained and both would be benefited by it. That ought to be
+done every day while making the bill of fare.</p>
+
+<p>To taste a sauce, as well as to know if a thing is good to eat, we
+cannot trust either our eyes, fingers, or ears; we then have recourse,
+first to our smelling, and then to our tasting: so do most animals.</p>
+
+<p>We always commence by smelling, and when that sense is satisfied as far
+as it is concerned, we then apply our tasting qualities; and if that
+last one is, in its turn, satisfied also, we proceed, that is, we
+masticate, if mastication is necessary, and then swallow.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="DIRECTIONS" id="DIRECTIONS"></a>DIRECTIONS, EXPLANATIONS, ETC.</h2>
+
+
+<h4>ANISE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Anise</span> comes from Egypt, and is used as a spice.</p>
+
+
+<h4>APRICOT.</h4>
+
+<p>This is a native of Armenia. It is served like plums and peaches; in
+salad, compote, etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BACON.</h4>
+
+<p>Never use smoked bacon or ham, except when especially directed. The
+smoky taste would spoil the dish.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BAIN-MARIE.</h4>
+
+<p>A bain-marie is a large vessel of hot or boiling water, in which
+saucepans, kettles, moulds, etc., are placed to prepare or warm food. It
+is also used to keep any kind of food warm, when something is ready to
+serve, and the time has not come; the utensil containing it is placed in
+hot water, and it not only keeps it warm, but there is almost no
+evaporation while in it. It does not boil away either.</p>
+
+<p>There are things that are much more delicate when prepared or warmed in
+hot water.</p>
+
+<p>One utensil made for that purpose, and of brass, with compartments, is
+more handy, but a large saucepan may be used in its stead.</p>
+
+<p>When any thing is in the bain-marie, the water should not be allowed to
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>
+boil fast enough either to upset the pans or get into them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BAKE-PANS.</h4>
+
+<p>A bake-pan for baking meat, fish, or any other object that requires
+liquor of any kind, must have borders in order to hold that liquor; but
+a bake-pan for cakes or any other object that does not require any
+liquor, or that does not turn liquid in baking, is better without
+borders&mdash;that is, a simple piece of sheet iron of a size to go easily in
+the oven.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BAY-LEAF.</h4>
+
+<p>This is known also under its French name laurier.</p>
+
+<p>It is used as a spice; it is exceedingly cheap and is excellent to
+flavor sauces, gravies, etc.</p>
+
+<p>It comes especially from Italy, where it is used to pack figs, oil, and
+different fruits.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BEETS.</h4>
+
+<p>The red beet is much used to decorate different dishes.</p>
+
+<p>It is boiled, then pickled, cut in fancy shapes, either with a knife or
+with paste-cutters, and tastefully placed on or around the object it is
+used to decorate.</p>
+
+<p>It is served as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, pickled, and cut in slices.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;Set it on a good fire in a pan, covered with cold water, and
+boil gently till done.</p>
+
+<p>The beet must not be touched at all with any thing rough, for if the
+skin or root is cut or broken, all the color goes away in boiling, it is
+not fit to decorate, and loses much of its quality.</p>
+
+<p>When you buy beets, see that they are not bruised, and that the root is
+not broken.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>
+<h4>BRAISING.</h4>
+
+<p>Braising, in cookery, means to cook any thing with fire under and upon
+the pan, kettle, or other utensil.</p>
+
+<p>A good oven is by far more easy, and answers perfectly the purpose. An
+oven not only warms the under and upper parts of the utensil, but all
+around it also.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BUNCH OF SEASONINGS.</h4>
+
+<p>It is composed of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and cloves, and sometimes a
+clove of garlic is added. Place the sprigs of parsley in the left hand,
+rather spread, lay the others on and in the middle of the parsley, and
+envelop them in it as well as possible, then tie the whole with twine.</p>
+
+<p>As all these seasonings are never served except when chopped, they are
+more easily taken out than if they were not tied together.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BUTTERED PAPER.</h4>
+
+<p>Dip in lukewarm butter a piece of white paper of the size you want, and
+envelop the piece to broil or roast with it. Tie the paper around with
+twine or coarse thread.</p>
+
+
+<h4>OILED PAPER.</h4>
+
+<p>The only difference between oiled and buttered paper is, that it is
+dipped in sweet or olive oil instead of butter.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CATSUP.</h4>
+
+<p>Beware of what is sold under the name of catsups and pickles; many cases
+of dyspepsia, debility, and consumption come from using such stuff.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CAVIARE.</h4>
+
+<p>It is made with the roes, hard and soft, of the sterlet. It is imported
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>
+from Russia, and is served as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, with slices of lemon
+and toast.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CERVELAS, SAUCISSONS, ETC.</h4>
+
+<p>Cervelas, saucissons, as well as smoked sausages, are pork-butchers'
+preparations, cut slantwise in very thin slices, and served as
+<i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, with parsley in the middle of the dish.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CHEESE.</h4>
+
+<p>Cheese is the first plate of <i>dessert</i> to be partaken of. "A dinner
+without cheese is like a handsome lady with but one
+eye."&mdash;<i>Brillat-Savarin</i>.</p>
+
+<p>"Cheese takes away all the taste that might be left from preceding
+dishes, and by that means prepares the palate for the appreciation of
+the good things, the delicate flavors of the dessert and wines."</p>
+
+
+<h4>COCHINEAL.</h4>
+
+<p>Cochineal, or carmine. Buy the cochineal in powder, prepared for cooking
+purposes, mix some (say the size of half a split pea) with a few drops
+of cold water and mix that again with what you wish to color. The
+quantity of cochineal is according to the quantity of mixture and also
+according to how deep the color is desired.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CHERVIL.</h4>
+
+<p>This comes from Italy, and is used in salad and as a spice.</p>
+
+
+<h4>COLANDER.</h4>
+
+<p>Besides the ordinary colander, it is necessary to have a fine one. We
+mean, by a fine colander, one with holes half the size of the ordinary
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>
+ones, that is, just between the colander and strainer. A colander
+should not have holes on the sides; it is handier and more clean with
+holes at the bottom only.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CURRY.</h4>
+
+<p>We think that curry is very good and necessary on the borders of the
+Ganges River, and for that very reason we think also that it ought to be
+eschewed on the borders of the Hudson, Delaware, Ohio, and thereabouts.</p>
+
+<p>We cannot describe curry better than by giving here the answer
+(<i>verbatim et literatim</i>) of a gentleman who has lived a few years in
+Java, to a question on the properties and qualities of curry. He said
+that he thought it good and even necessary to use some there on account
+of the climate, but every time he had eaten it he thought he was
+swallowing boiling alcohol or live coals.</p>
+
+
+<h4>DINING-ROOM.</h4>
+
+<p>It must be well ventilated and lighted. The best degree of temperature
+is about 66 degrees Fahr.</p>
+
+
+<h4>DISH.</h4>
+
+<p>A dish ought to be charming to the eye, flattering to the smell, and
+delicious to the taste.</p>
+
+
+<h4>DRAINING.</h4>
+
+<p>To drain, is to put in a colander any thing that has been soaked,
+washed, or boiled, etc., in water or any other liquid, in order to dry
+it, or at least to let drop from it the water or other liquid that may
+be in it.</p>
+
+<p>Salads of greens, as a general thing, are drained after being washed,
+before putting them in the salad-dish; they must be drained as dry as
+possible, but without pressing on them, as it would wilt the leaves, and
+give the salad an unsightly appearance.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>
+<h4>DUSTING.</h4>
+
+<p>A pan, after being buttered or greased, is dusted with flour, sugar, or
+even bread-crumbs, to prevent the mixture that is put in it from
+sticking. Sugar, etc., may also be sprinkled over dishes with a dredger.</p>
+
+
+<h4>DRINKING.</h4>
+
+<p>When weary, or cold, or warm, or exhausted, we drink in preference to
+eating, because we feel the effect instantaneously; while after eating
+even the most substantial food, we do not feel the effect for some time.</p>
+
+<p>When exhausted and when immediate relief is necessary, the best drinks
+are broth, chocolate, milk, or water sweetened with sugar. It is more
+than a mistake to drink wines or liquors at such a time; it is really
+committing slow suicide.</p>
+
+<p>When only thirsty, without exhaustion, we ought to drink cold water with
+a teaspoon. When thirsty and heated, the first thing to do is to dip the
+hands in cold water deep enough just to cover the wrists; then dip a
+towel in the water, lay it on the forehead, and then drink cold water
+with a teaspoon.</p>
+
+<p>A few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice may be added to the water. If
+exceedingly hot, keep your hands in cold water and the towel on your
+forehead at least one minute before drinking.</p>
+
+
+<h4>HOT WEATHER.</h4>
+
+<p>A remark or two on eating and drinking in hot weather are always in
+season. Green vegetables, properly cooked, are certainly healthful in
+warm weather; but it is a mistake to think that meat should be excluded
+from summer diet. The hotter the weather, the more the system wastes,
+and therefore the more we must supply.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>
+<p>In order to keep the body in a healthful condition, meat ought to be
+eaten at least once a day in summer-time. It would be well to vary this
+programme by taking one meal of fish on every other day.</p>
+
+<p>Fat should be disused as much as possible. A very little good butter
+with your fresh radishes at breakfast is as much fat as is necessary.</p>
+
+
+<h4>COLD WEATHER.</h4>
+
+<p>Fat meat is good in winter and is relished; so are dry vegetables and
+saccharine substances.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FOOD.</h4>
+
+<p>Nature has provided man with a mind, in order that he should study what
+kind of food suits his constitution; he who does not do it, is not above
+the lower animals.</p>
+
+<p>"Good things have been made by the Creator for good people, flowers have
+certainly not been made for brutes, either quadruped or
+biped."&mdash;<i>Jefferson.</i></p>
+
+<p>"It is from good things that, in a human point of view, we derive the
+strength necessary to our limbs, let us partake of the same and be
+thankful."&mdash;<i>Rev.</i>&mdash;&mdash;<i>Chadband.</i></p>
+
+<p>Have your food selected and prepared according to constitution,
+occupation, climate, age, and sex.</p>
+
+<p>Waste in females is greater than in males.</p>
+
+<p>Animals, generally, are very careful in selecting their food.</p>
+
+<p>A temporary bloatedness may be obtained, especially with the young, by
+eating much farinaceous food, such as pancakes, etc., but it does not
+last, and is sure to bring on disease or sickness, or both.</p>
+
+<p>Man is omnivorous, and must be fed accordingly.</p>
+
+<p>Extreme leanness comes from want of proper food, either in youth or old
+age.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>
+<p>It is not the amount that is eaten which nourishes, but the amount that
+is digested; an excess of food is as bad as a lack of it.</p>
+
+<p>Good and well-baked bread is nutritious and healthful, while unbaked
+bread is heavy and difficult of digestion.</p>
+
+<p>Take at least half an hour's rest after a hearty meal, for mind and
+stomach cannot work at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>Never eat when angry, or tired, or when heated; but be as cool and as
+gay as possible, for food being exposed to a heat of about 100 degrees
+Fahr, in the stomach, would ferment instead of digesting.</p>
+
+<p>Take a hearty but by no means heavy dinner.</p>
+
+<p>Eat slowly, at regular hours, and masticate well, but do not bolt your
+food, or eat any thing that does not taste good.</p>
+
+<p>Drink slowly, moderately, and always taste before swallowing.</p>
+
+<p>Vary your food as much as possible.</p>
+
+<p>Always have at least one dish of vegetables for dinner, besides meat,
+and also ripe fruit.</p>
+
+<p>See that every thing you eat or drink is of a good quality, wholesome
+and properly prepared.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ECONOMY.</h4>
+
+<p>There is not a word so much misused in cooking as the word economy.</p>
+
+<p>Prejudice comes for a large share in the use of it.</p>
+
+<p>How many things are thrown away, or wasted by mere prejudice or
+ignorance!</p>
+
+<p>It is often from economy that a woman washes meat, because some part of
+it does not look clean. Instead of washing it, do not buy it; or, if
+bought, cut off a thin slice and throw it away: it is more economical
+than washing the whole piece, which you partly destroy by the process.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>
+<p>It is with a view to economy, that an old, bad custom prevails of
+boiling coffee. What an economy of sending the best part of the coffee
+(the aroma) to the attic, and the rest to the dining-room. A bad drink
+can be made cheaper with many things than with coffee.</p>
+
+<p>Tea is also boiled with an eye to economy.</p>
+
+
+<h4>EGG-BEATER.</h4>
+
+<p>We have tried five different kinds in Boston, before a large audience
+and on the demand of an inventor of one, but none could beat eggs as
+well as a common hand-beater. The whites of the eggs could not be raised
+with any of the others much more than half as much as with the common
+one; and besides, could not be beaten stiff.</p>
+
+<p>Many persons do not succeed in making cakes of different preparations in
+which whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth are used, because the eggs
+are not properly beaten.</p>
+
+<p>Any tinsmith can make an egg-beater. It is generally made with tin-wire,
+but may be made with brass-wire.</p>
+
+<p>With the cut below, as a model, it can be easily made.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0024.jpg" width="545" height="118" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The handle <i>a</i> is of tin, into which the tin wires <i>b</i> are fastened and
+soldered.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ERRORS IN COOKING.</h4>
+
+<p>Ignorance produces abuse or error, or both. Blissful ignorance may be a
+fine thing in some cases, but either in preparing or partaking of food,
+it is certainly more than an abuse, it is a dangerous error.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>
+<p>It is by ignorance or disease that man abuses wine or any other liquor.</p>
+
+<p>It is by ignorance or prejudice that many eschew the best and most
+healthful of condiments, such as garlics, onions, etc. They dislike them
+on account of their pungent taste when raw, not knowing that when cooked
+it is all evaporated. Their pungent taste comes from the volatile oil
+they contain, and which evaporates in cooking; it cannot be retained,
+but their sugar is retained, and gives such a good flavor to gravies and
+sauces.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FENNEL.</h4>
+
+<p>This is said to be a native of the Canary Islands; it has a very strong
+taste, and is used as a spice, especially in blood pudding. The Romans
+used a great deal of it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FIG.</h4>
+
+<p>The fig-tree comes from Mesopotamia. Figs are generally served as
+<i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, or used in puddings, etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FINES HERBES.</h4>
+
+<p>Parsley and cives chopped fine, and used for omelets, or with cold meat,
+sauces, etc., are called thus.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FLOUR.</h4>
+
+<p>In cooking, new flour is not as good as old; it does not thicken as well
+and as fast.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FOIES GRAS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Foies</i>, or <i>p&acirc;t&eacute;s de foies gras</i> are made with geese-livers, fresh fat
+pork, truffles, ham, <i>fines herbes</i>, and spices.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>
+<p>They are always served cold as a <i>relev&eacute;</i> or <i>entr&eacute;e</i>, but most
+generally they are used for lunch or supper.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FRUIT-CORER.</h4>
+
+<p>There are many sizes in the set, to core from a pineapple to a cherry.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0026.jpg" width="438" height="102" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<h4>GALANTINE.</h4>
+
+<p>The word galantine means a <i>boned bird</i>, or a boned shoulder of veal.</p>
+
+
+<h4>GLAZING.</h4>
+
+<p>Glazing is generally done by means of a brush or with feathers. A beaten
+egg, or syrup, or jelly, or egg and sugar, etc., are used to glaze
+cakes, etc. It is done by dipping the brush into the egg or jelly, and
+by spreading it on the cake or other object before baking or before
+serving, as directed in the different receipts. It is also done by
+sifting powdered sugar on cakes which are put back in the oven for a
+short time&mdash;that is, the time necessary to melt the sugar.</p>
+
+
+<h4>INDIGESTION.</h4>
+
+<p>A cup of tea and camomile, half of each, with a few drops of
+orange-flower water, and the whole well sweetened and taken warm, is
+very good after having eaten something difficult to digest.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ITALIAN PASTES.</h4>
+
+<p>Macaroni, vermicelli, and the like dry pastes, are called Italian
+pastes, whatever the shape&mdash;round, oval, or star-like.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ISINGLASS.</h4>
+
+<p>It is sometimes used instead of gelatine to make jellies.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>
+<h4>JELLY-BAG.</h4>
+
+<p>Make a conical bag of good white flannel, about twenty inches long,
+fifteen inches broad at one end when spread on a flat surface, or about
+thirty inches in circumference, the other end being the point. Sew to it
+four pieces of white tape at the large end, and at equal distances, so
+that two sticks may be run into them. The sticks are placed on chairs or
+something else, in order to have the point of the bag about one foot
+from the floor. It is then ready to pass the jellies through it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0027.jpg" width="86" height="219" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<h4>KITCHEN UTENSILS.</h4>
+
+<p>Gastronomists use, in preference to any thing else, crockery or earthen
+pans; or, for want of these, block-tin pans.</p>
+
+<p>Copper is, in the end, the cheapest of all; but American cooks do not
+like them because they require too much care and must be examined every
+day; to prevent any accident, it is necessary to keep the inside
+properly lined.</p>
+
+<p>Many indispositions are caused by food prepared in copper not properly
+lined; even food allowed to cool in a well-lined pan would be dangerous.</p>
+
+<p>Pans lined with porcelain are excellent, but the trouble with them is,
+that they crack, and after that cannot be cleaned; something will
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>
+always remain between the lining and the iron, and spoil every thing
+cooked in them.</p>
+
+<p>The tin-lined are preferable, on account of being easily cleaned by
+means of a small birch-broom, washing-soda, and boiling water.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LAIT DE POULE.</h4>
+
+<p>Mix well in a tumbler a yolk of egg and a teaspoonful of sugar; then add
+a few drops of orange-flower water (<i>eau de fleur d'oranger</i>); pour
+boiling water on the whole, little by little, stirring the while, and
+drink warm.</p>
+
+<p>The quantity of water is according to taste.</p>
+
+<p>A gill of water to a yolk of egg makes it thick enough.</p>
+
+<p>It makes an excellent drink, to be taken just before retiring, for
+persons with cough.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LARD.</h4>
+
+<p>Never buy lard ready made if you can help it, but take hog's fat, the
+part enveloping the kidneys, or leaf lard, and chop it fine, put it in a
+cast-iron or crockery kettle with a bay-leaf and a stalk of thyme to
+every two pounds of fat; set on a moderate fire, and as soon as it
+begins to melt, take the melted part out with a ladle, and put it in a
+stone jar or pot; be careful not to take any pieces of fat not yet
+melted. Continue that process till it is all melted.</p>
+
+<p>The dry or hard part that remains at the bottom of the kettle when done
+is no good.</p>
+
+<p>Lard made thus is as white as snow, and may be kept a long time.</p>
+
+<p>When there is water in lard, it flies all over the fire; in that case,
+boil it a few minutes with a cover on the pan, and then use.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>
+<h4>FAT FOR FRYING.</h4>
+
+<p>Take beef suet, the part around the kidneys, or any kind of fat, raw or
+cooked; remove as much as possible fibres, nerves, thin skin, or bones;
+chop it fine, put it in a cast-iron or crockery kettle; add to it the
+fat you may have skimmed from the top of broth, sauces or, gravies. Set
+the pan on a moderate fire; boil gently for about fifteen minutes, skim
+it well during the process; take from the fire, let it stand about five
+minutes, and then strain.</p>
+
+<p>Put it in a stone jar or pot, and keep it in a dry and cool place. Cover
+the jar when perfectly cold.</p>
+
+<p>It is as good as lard and more handy; it does not fly over the pan like
+lard.</p>
+
+<p>A careful cook seldom buys fat; generally there is enough coming from
+skimming of broth, sauces, and gravies, for every purpose.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TO CLARIFY FAT.</h4>
+
+<p>Set the fat on a moderate fire in a pan, and as soon as it commences to
+boil, place a slice of bread dried in the oven in it, boil gently for
+about half an hour; take from the fire, let it settle for a few minutes;
+remove the bread, turn gently into a jar or pot, leaving the dregs in
+the pan.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chicken</i>, <i>Turkey</i>, <i>and Goose Fat.</i>&mdash;The fat of the above birds is
+never used to fry, but to <i>saut&eacute;</i> instead of butter. To make omelets it
+is excellent; an omelet is whiter and more sightly made with chicken-fat
+than when made with butter. It is clarified as directed above.</p>
+
+
+<h4>GAME-FAT.</h4>
+
+<p>Game-fat can be used instead of other fat and also instead of butter, to
+<i>saut&eacute;</i>, or what is generally called partly fry, game; it may also be
+used, instead of butter to bake game.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>
+<p>It must be clarified longer than other fat, but in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>The boiling of fat with water, as indicated in some cook-books, is only
+a fancy and extra work, it has no effect whatever on the fat. It is the
+same by keeping it for hours in a <i>bain-marie</i>; it does not change it in
+the least.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BATTER FOR FRYING.</h4>
+
+<p><i>For frying Vegetables.</i>&mdash;Put three tablespoonfuls of flour in a bowl
+with two yolks of eggs, and cold water enough to make a kind of thin
+paste, then add salt and half a teaspoonful of sweet oil; mix well. Beat
+the two whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and mix them with the rest.
+Put the batter away in a cold place for at least two hours, and use.</p>
+
+<p>It must not be put away longer than for half a day.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above in every particular, except that you use
+milk instead of water.</p>
+
+<p><i>For frying Fish.</i>&mdash;Make it exactly as the above, except that you do not
+use any oil.</p>
+
+<p><i>For frying Fritters.</i>&mdash;Mix well together in a bowl three tablespoonfuls
+of flour with two yolks of eggs and cold water enough to make a thin
+paste; add a pinch of sugar, rum or brandy, or any other liquor,
+according to taste, from one to three or four tablespoonfuls, mix well
+again, and put away for at least two or three hours, but not longer than
+twelve hours.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eggs and Crumbs for frying.</i>&mdash;The eggs are beaten as for omelets, with
+a little salt. The objects to be fried are dipped in the eggs first,
+then rolled in bread-crumbs and fried.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;When rolled in bread-crumbs as above; dip again in the eggs,
+roll again in bread-crumbs and fry.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Dip the object in melted butter, then in eggs, and roll in
+bread-crumbs; fry.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LARDING.</h4>
+
+<p>All pork-butchers sell salt pork for larding. Cut it in slices and then
+by cutting the slices across it makes square strips or fillets.</p>
+
+<p>The strips must be of a proper size to be easily inserted into the
+larding-needle, and are about two inches and a half long.</p>
+
+<p>When the needle is run half way through the meat, insert the salt pork
+into it, pull the needle off and leave the salt pork inside of the meat,
+both ends of it sticking out.</p>
+
+<p>If it were running through, that is, if the salt pork were pulled off
+with the needle, most likely the strips are too small; then pull slowly,
+and when the salt pork is far enough into the meat, press on it with the
+finger and pull the needle, it will then stay in its proper place. It is
+better to cut a few strips first and try if they are of a proper size.</p>
+
+<p>If, in pulling off the needle, the salt pork does not enter the meat,
+the strips are too large.</p>
+
+<p>If the strips are of a proper size and break while pulling the needle
+off, then the pork is not good.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fricandeau</i>, sweetbreads, birds, etc., are larded in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>For beef <i>&agrave; la mode</i>, it is described in the receipt.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LARDING-NEEDLE.</h4>
+
+<p>The best are made of brass. Those that are sold for steel are generally
+of iron, and break easily.</p>
+
+<p>Those for beef <i>&agrave; la mode</i> are of steel, and must be flat near the
+point, in order to cut the meat.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>
+<h4>LEAVEN.</h4>
+
+<p>Knead four ounces of flour with baker's yeast, enough to make a rather
+thick dough; give it the shape of a rather flat apple; with a sharp
+knife make two cuts on the top and across, and through about one-third
+of the paste; put the paste in a pan of lukewarm water. In a few minutes
+it will float; take it off and use then after it has floated about two
+minutes.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MEAT.</h4>
+
+<p>The time it takes to cook meat depends as much on the quality of the
+meat as on the fire. Some persons like meat more done than others; in
+many cases you must consult your own taste or that of your guests.</p>
+
+<p>Beef, lamb, mutton, and game, may be eaten rather underdone, according
+to taste; domestic fowls must be properly cooked; but pork and veal must
+always be overdone, or else it is very unwholesome, if not dangerous.</p>
+
+<p>The following table may be used as a guide:</p>
+
+<table summary="Meat32" width="60%">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Bear and Buffalo,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a five-pound piece,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 5 to 7 hrs.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Wild Boar and Woodchuck,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Do.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 3 to 4 hrs.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Beef,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Do.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hr. 30 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a ten pound piece,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 2 hrs. 30 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Capon,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a large one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hour.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Chicken,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a middling-sized one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">45 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Duck,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a large one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">45 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a small one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">30 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Goose,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a large one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 2 hours.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a small one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hr. 30 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Grouse, Heathcock, Snipe, and W'dcock,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a fat one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">30 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; do.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; do.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a lean one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">20 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Guinea Fowl,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a middling-sized one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hour.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Hare,</td>
+<td class="tdl">an old one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hr. 30 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a young one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">about 1 hr.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Lamb and Kid,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a large quarter,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hour.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a small one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">45 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Mutton,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a four-pound piece,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hour.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a six&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; "&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hr. 30 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Partridge, Pheasant, and Prairie-Hen,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a middling-sized one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">30 to 45 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Pigeon,</td>
+<td class="tdl">one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">30 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Pork,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a two-pound piece,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hr. 15 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a four&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; "&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 2 hours.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Quail,</td>
+<td class="tdl">one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">20 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Sucking-Pig,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a large one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 2 hrs. 30 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a small one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 2 hours.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Rabbit,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a middling-sized one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">30 to 45 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Robin, Blackbird, Fig-pecker, High-holder,<br />
+Lapwing, Meadow Lark, Plover, Reed-bird,<br />
+Thrush, Yellow-bird, and other small birds,</td>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+<td class="tdl">15 to 20 min.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Turkey,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a large one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hr. 30 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; Do.</td>
+<td class="tdl">a small one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">about 1 hour.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Veal,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a two-pound piece,</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 1 hr. 15 m.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Venison,</td>
+<td class="tdl">a four&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; "&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">about 1 hour.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>
+<p>The following table may be used as a guide to know how long meat may be
+kept, in a cool, dry, and dark place; and protected from flies or other
+insects:</p>
+
+<table summary="Meat33" width="60%">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl"></td>
+<td class="tdl">In Summer.</td>
+<td class="tdl">In Winter.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Bear and Buffalo,</td>
+<td class="tdl">3 to 4 days.</td>
+<td class="tdl">10 to 15 days.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Wild Boar and Woodchuck,</td>
+<td class="tdl">3 to 4&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 8 to 10&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Beef and Pork,</td>
+<td class="tdl">2 to 4&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 6 to 10&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Capon,</td>
+<td class="tdl">2 to 3&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 4 to &nbsp; 8&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Chicken, old one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">3 to 4&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 4 to 10&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; Do.&nbsp; &nbsp; young one,</td>
+<td class="tdl">1 to 2&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 2 to &nbsp; 6&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Deer, Partridge, Pheasant, Prairie-Hen, Quail, Guinea-Fowl, and Turkey,</td>
+<td class="tdl">2 to 3&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 6 to 10&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Duck and Goose,</td>
+<td class="tdl">3 to 4&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 4 to &nbsp; 8&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Hare and Rabbit,</td>
+<td class="tdl">2 to 3&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 4 to &nbsp; 8&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Grouse, Heathcock, Snipe, and Woodcock,</td>
+<td class="tdl">3 to 4&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 8 to 15&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Lamb, Kid, Sucking Pig, and Veal,</td>
+<td class="tdl">2 to 3&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 3 to &nbsp; 6&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Mutton</td>
+<td class="tdl">2 to 3&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 6 to 10&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Pigeons, Blackbirds, Fig-peckers, High-holders,<br />
+Lapwings, Meadow Larks, Yellow-birds, and other small birds,</td>
+<td class="tdl">2 to 3&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; 6 to 10&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>The time must be reduced one-half in summer, in stormy or damp weather,
+and one-third in winter, in thawing or rainy weather.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fish.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared as directed, place it in a crockery
+stewpan, cover it with cold water, add a little salt, two or three
+sprigs of thyme, and one or two bay-leaves. It will keep thus for some
+time.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>
+<h4>MOULDS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Mould for Meat Pies.</i>&mdash;A mould for meat pies may be round or oval; it
+must be in two pieces, fastened together by a kind of hinge. When the
+pie is baked, the wire pin holding the mould is pulled, and the mould
+removed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0034a.jpg" width="381" height="141" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Mould for Pies</i>, <i>Jellies</i>, <i>etc.</i>&mdash;This mould may be used for any
+thing that requires a mould; it may also be round, oval, or of any other
+shape.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0034b.jpg" width="284" height="184" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<h4>OLIVES.</h4>
+
+<p>Fresh and ripe they are served as dessert with other fruit. Preserved,
+they are served as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, and used to flavor and decorate
+different dishes.</p>
+
+<p>Olives as well as sardines are healthful and considered one of the best
+<i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>OSMAZOME.</h4>
+
+<p>Osmazome is found in beef, mutton, full-grown domestic fowls, venison,
+and game; in the latter, when the bird or animal is adult.</p>
+
+<p>In meat soup, the osmazome is the soluble part of the meat that
+dissolves in boiling, and makes nutritious broth.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>
+<p>In broiled or roasted pieces, it is that part which makes a kind of
+brown crust on the surface of the meat, and also the brownish part of
+the gravy.</p>
+
+<p>Chicken, lamb, sucking-pig, veal, etc., do not contain any osmazome.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PARSLEY, CHERVIL, THYME, CELERY, SAGE, ETC.,&mdash;FOR WINTER USE.</h4>
+
+<p>Hang in the shade, under a shed, or in a garret, and in a clean and dry
+place, some small bunches of parsley, chervil, celery, etc., the roots
+upward; leave them thus till perfectly dry, then place them in your
+spice-box for winter use.</p>
+
+<p>The best time for drying them is at the end of October or the beginning
+of November; dig them up in fine and dry weather, so as to have them
+clean without washing.</p>
+
+<p>Soak in cold water half an hour before using.</p>
+
+
+<h4>WHITE PEPPER.</h4>
+
+<p>This is black pepper decorticated.</p>
+
+<p>Put peppercorns in a bowl, cover with cold water, and leave thus till
+the skin is tender; then drain. Take the skin off, let it dry, grind it;
+place with your other spices, and use where directed. It takes many days
+for the skin to become tender.</p>
+
+
+<h4>QUALITY OF MEAT, FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUIT, ETC.</h4>
+
+<p>The quality of meat depends entirely on the quality of food with which
+the animal has been fed.</p>
+
+<p>For fish, the taste or quality is according to the kind of water in
+which they have lived; fish from a muddy pond smell of mud, while fish
+from a clear brook are delicious.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span>
+<p>The same difference exists in vegetables and fruit; their quality is
+according to the quality or nature of the ground in which they have been
+grown.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PASTRY-BAG.</h4>
+
+<p>A bag for pastry is made with thick, strong linen; of a conical shape,
+about one foot long, eight inches broad at one end when spread on a flat
+surface, and which makes about sixteen inches in circumference, and only
+one inch and a quarter at the other end, and in which latter end a tin
+tube is placed, so that the smaller end of the tin tube will come out of
+the smaller end of the bag. Putting then some mixture into the bag and
+by pressing from the upper end downward, the mixture will come out of
+the tin tube.</p>
+
+
+<h4>RAW MATERIALS.</h4>
+
+<p>If American cookery is inferior to any other generally, it is not on
+account of a want of the first two requisites&mdash;raw materials and money
+to buy them; so there is no excuse for it, both are given to the cooks.</p>
+
+<p>Here, where markets rival the best markets of Europe and even surpass
+them in abundance, it is really a pity to live as many do live.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SCALLOPED KNIFE.</h4>
+
+<p>This knife is used to cut beets, carrots, turnip-rooted celery,
+potatoes, radishes, and turnips; in slices, round, oblong, or of any
+other shape; either to decorate dishes, or to be served alone or with
+something else, or to be fried.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0036.jpg" width="463" height="43" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The annexed cuts will give an idea of what can be done with it. It is
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>
+understood that the vegetables are peeled first.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0037a.jpg" width="410" height="179" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<h4>SHALLOTS.</h4>
+
+<p>Shallots come from Syria. Shallot is stronger than garlic and onion; a
+real Tartar sauce cannot be made without shallot. The small, green onion
+is a good substitute for it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SKEWERS.</h4>
+
+<p>The cuts below are skewers. The common ones are used to fasten pieces of
+meat together; to roast or bake small birds, liver in <i>brochette</i>, etc.,
+etc.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0037b.jpg" width="224" height="236" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Those to decorate are only used with different flowers or vegetables,
+and stuck inside of different pieces of meat as a decoration. They are
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>
+removed just before carving.</p>
+
+<p>The use of them is explained in the different receipts. They may be
+different from those seen in the cuts.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SPICES.</h4>
+
+<p>The cooks of this country generally have a queer idea of what they call
+French cookery and French spices.</p>
+
+<p>Some honestly believe that to make a French dish a great deal of pepper
+and other strong seasonings must be put in.</p>
+
+<p>Many other persons, who have not been in Europe, really believe also,
+that French cookery is what is called highly-seasoned. There never was a
+greater mistake.</p>
+
+<p>If French cooks use several kinds of spices, and may-be more than
+American cooks, they are not the same; or if some are the same, such as
+pepper, they use them in much smaller proportions.</p>
+
+<p>They generally use thyme, parsley, bay-leaf, chervil, tarragon, etc.,
+which are aromatic; but never use (in this climate) ginger, curry,
+cayenne pepper, pimento, catsups, variegated colored pickles made with
+pyroligneous acids, etc., and which are very exciting and irritating.</p>
+
+<p>Some of our readers may naturally ask: How is it that French cookery is
+believed by many to be the contrary of what it really is?</p>
+
+<p>Because every eating-house, of no matter what size, pretends to be a
+first-rate one or a fashionable one&mdash;and to be first-rate or fashionable
+must, as a matter of course, have French cooks, or at least cook French
+dishes.</p>
+
+<p>You enter the place, ask for a French dish; or, ask if you can have such
+a dish, <i>&agrave; la Fran&ccedil;aise</i>?</p>
+
+<p>You are politely and emphatically answered in the affirmative; and very
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>
+often the polite waiter says that a French cook presides in the kitchen.</p>
+
+<p>Result!&mdash;the cook, be he from the Green Isle or of African descent,
+receiving the order to prepare a French dish, puts a handful of pepper
+in the already too much peppered, old-fashioned prepared dish, and sends
+it to the confident customer as a genuine French dish.</p>
+
+<p>Said customer never asks a second time for a French dish, and pronounces
+French cookery to be&mdash;abominable!</p>
+
+
+<h4>STIRRING.</h4>
+
+<p>Never use any spoon but a wooden one to stir any thing on the fire or in
+a warm state.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STRAINING.</h4>
+
+<p>To strain, is to pass a sauce or any thing else through a sieve, a
+strainer, or a piece of cloth, in order to have it freed from particles
+of every kind.</p>
+
+<p>Broth is strained to make soup, so as to remove the small pieces of
+bones that may be in it, etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SUGAR.</h4>
+
+<p>Sugar plays a very important part in cooking. It is added to cereals,
+vegetables, and fruit, many of which would almost be unpalatable without
+it, and which are rendered not only palatable but wholesome by its
+action.</p>
+
+<p>It is the sugar of the carrot and that of the onion, or of the garlic,
+that gives such a peculiar and delicious flavor to gravies and sauces,
+to <i>beef &agrave; la mode</i>, <i>fricandeau</i>, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pulverized.</i>&mdash;When pulverized or powdered sugar can be had pure, it
+saves the trouble to do it; but often there are foreign matters in it
+and therefore it is better to make it; you know then what you have.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>
+<p>Break loaf sugar into small lumps, pound it and sift it. With a fine
+sieve, you can make it as fine as you please.</p>
+
+<p>It was not used in Europe until about the middle of the seventeenth
+century.</p>
+
+<p>For the cooking of sugar, see <span class="smcap">Preserves</span>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TARRAGON.</h4>
+
+<p>The French name of tarragon is <i>estragon</i>. It is excellent in vinegar
+and in many fish sauces. It is aromatic, sudorific, and stomachic, and
+grows very well in this country. It grows at least twice as large here
+as in Europe.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TIN TUBES.</h4>
+
+<p>These tubes are put in the pastry-bag, at the smaller end of it, to make
+<i>meringues</i>, ladies' fingers, etc.; they are of tin, and can be made by
+any tinsmith.</p>
+
+<p>They have the shape of a trapezoid or frustum. Two are enough for any
+purpose.</p>
+
+<p>No. 1. One inch and a half long; one inch and three-eighths in diameter
+at one end, and nine-sixteenths of an inch at the other end.</p>
+
+<p>No. 2. One inch and a half long; one inch and a half in diameter at one
+end, and six-eighths of an inch at the other.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TRUFFLES.</h4>
+
+<p>Truffles are found in Europe and Africa, where they were first
+discovered.</p>
+
+<p>The truffle is neither an animal nor a vegetable, although it has been
+classed among the fungi, which has root, and the truffle has neither
+root nor stem.</p>
+
+<p>The truffle is used for stuffing and flavoring only otherwise it is not
+of much value. On account of their scarcity, and the difficulty in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>
+finding them, they are rather costly.</p>
+
+<p>We think truffles may be compared to lace&mdash;both are dear, and neither
+has an intrinsic value.</p>
+
+
+<h4>VANILLA.</h4>
+
+<p>Is a native of America, extensively used for seasoning creams, pastry,
+etc., to which it gives a delicious flavor.</p>
+
+<p>Although a native of America, all the extracts of vanilla, as well as
+others, were formerly imported; but within a few years Americans have
+found out that they are able to distil also, and "Burnett's Extract of
+Vanilla" is better known to-day all over the country than any other.</p>
+
+
+<h4>VEGETABLE SPOONS.</h4>
+
+<p>Vegetable spoons are used to cut potatoes, carrots, and turnips; there
+are different shapes, round, oval, carrot-shape, plain, and scalloped.
+We give here only two, being sufficient to explain their use.</p>
+
+<p>The first (<i>a</i>) is of an oval shape, and makes the cut <i>c</i>; the second
+(<i>b</i>) is round, and makes the cut <i>d</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0041.jpg" width="544" height="136" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>When the vegetable is peeled, place the spoon on it, the convex side up;
+holding the vegetable in your left hand, press on the spoon with your
+left thumb, and in order to cause it to cut the vegetable while turning
+it with the right hand, first half way or rather when the half of it is
+inside of the vegetable, stop, turn it the other way, causing it to cut
+the vegetable also, then raise it up without turning at all and you
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>
+have in the spoon a piece of vegetable of the shape of the spoon, and as
+seen in the cuts.</p>
+
+
+<h4>WATER.</h4>
+
+<p>Rain-water is for cooking purposes, as for other purposes, the best, but
+is seldom used, especially in large cities, where it is difficult to
+procure it. Another difficulty is, when procured it soon gets foul.</p>
+
+<p>The next best is river-water, or water from lakes.</p>
+
+<p>By boiling, water evaporates its gases and alkali, and is inferior
+afterward for cooking purposes, especially for boiling vegetables;
+therefore, we earnestly recommend to use the water at the first boiling.</p>
+
+<p>When foul water has to be used for want of other, if no filter,
+charcoal, sand, or paper can be had to filter it, it will improve by
+boiling it and then exposing it to the air for some time.</p>
+
+
+<h4>WINES.</h4>
+
+<p>Native wines, when pure, are just as good as any other for cooking
+purposes.</p>
+
+<p>It is wrong and a great mistake to underrate native wines; they have a
+little more acerbity than foreign wines, but are not inferior. It cannot
+be otherwise, being grown in a virgin soil, or nearly so. The richer the
+soil or the younger the vineyard, the more acid the wine.</p>
+
+<p>Cold nights during the ripening of the fruit make the wine more acid,
+not ripening so perfectly.</p>
+
+<p>Wine is a healthy drink, and many invalids would recover much quicker by
+a judicious use of it.</p>
+
+<p>Different wines are used in cooking, and we give the names of the best
+ones in the different receipts.</p>
+
+<p>A little vinegar may be used as a substitute for wine, but it is very
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>
+inferior, and in many dishes it cannot be used at all.</p>
+
+<p>A few dollars spent during the year in wine for cooking purposes, makes
+much better and more wholesome dishes.</p>
+
+<p>White wine contains little tannin; it retains nitrogenous matters, and
+is free from essential oils; hence the superior flavor and quality of
+brandy made with white wines.</p>
+
+<p>It is more aperient and less nutritive than red wine.</p>
+
+<p>Essential oils pass in red wine while it is fermenting.</p>
+
+<p>Wine and sugar with certain fruits are excellent, and are known to
+neutralize the crudity of the fruit, such as straw-berries, pears,
+peaches, currants, etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MOTTO.</h4>
+
+<p>The motto of the New York Cooking Academy is&mdash;</p>
+
+<p><i>Since we must eat to live, let us prepare our food in such a manner,
+that our physical, intellectual, and moral capacities may be extended as
+far as is designed by our CREATOR.</i></p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="DIVERS_RECEIPTS" id="DIVERS_RECEIPTS"></a>DIVERS RECEIPTS.</h2>
+
+
+<h4>ALMONDS.</h4>
+
+<p>Two kinds are used in cooking, the sweet and the bitter.</p>
+
+<p>They are shelled first, then by pouring boiling water on them and
+leaving them in it for two or three minutes, they are easily skinned.</p>
+
+<p>They are sometimes used as soon as skinned, and sometimes dried after
+being skinned and just before using.</p>
+
+<p>When wanted dried, place them in a pan in a slow oven with the door
+open, and turn them occasionally.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LEMONADE OR ORANGEADE.</h4>
+
+<p>Put two ounces of loaf sugar in a quart of water, also the rind of an
+orange or one of lemon. Half an hour after strain the whole, and press
+into it the juice of the orange, and a few drops of lemon-juice. If
+found too strong, add water and sugar. It is a very good drink in
+summer, or for evening parties. A little currant jelly may be added to
+make a variety.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LEMONADE WITH BARLEY.</h4>
+
+<p>To the above lemonade or orangeade you add, instead of water and sugar,
+some barley-water and sugar; it is very good and very refreshing.</p>
+
+<p>Barley-water is made by soaking in lukewarm water a pint of barley,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span>
+drain it two or three minutes after; put the barley in a crockery pan,
+cover it with cold water (about three quarts), set it on the fire, and
+boil till the barley is perfectly cooked; skim off the scum during the
+cooking, drain, let cool, and use the water.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BARLEY SUGAR FOR CHILDREN.</h4>
+
+<p>Soak a quart of barley in lukewarm water for two or three minutes, and
+drain. Put the barley in a crockery stewpan, with four or five quarts of
+water, and set it on a good fire, boil till the barley is overdone, and
+then take from the fire, mash it as well as possible and strain,
+throwing away what there is in the strainer, and if the remainder does
+not make a kind of jelly when cool, the barley has not been boiled
+enough.</p>
+
+<p>Mix that jelly with sugar and fry it; it is better than any other candy,
+barley being refreshing, and the principal substance of it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BAVAROISE WITH CHOCOLATE.</h4>
+
+<p>Put in a tin pan a pint of milk, with one ounce of chocolate, and two of
+sugar; set it over the fire, but do not allow it to boil; stir well with
+a wooden spoon during the process, and when the whole is well mixed,
+serve warm in cups.</p>
+
+<p>It is an excellent and wholesome drink in the evening.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same with Coffee or Tea.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above in every particular,
+except that you put in the pan a small cup of coffee or tea instead of
+chocolate, and a little more sugar.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BICHOF.</h4>
+
+<p>Put in a crockery tureen two bottles of white wine, with an orange and a
+lemon, both cut in slices; cover, and place it in a warm place for about
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>
+ten hours; then strain into a vessel, and mix well with the liquor
+about a pound of loaf sugar, and a little grated cinnamon.</p>
+
+<p>It may be served warm or cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Melt a pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of cold water,
+and then mix with it two bottles of white wine, a pinch of grated
+cinnamon, the juice of an orange, and that of a lemon, and use. It takes
+only a few minutes to make it.</p>
+
+<p>If found too strong, add water and sugar.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TO PRESERVE BIRDS.</h4>
+
+<p>Broil or roast, according to our directions, chickens, ducks, geese,
+turkeys, partridges, pheasants, prairie hens, quails, etc.; then carve
+them; take the bones out of the pieces, place them in a crockery pot,
+which you fill with melted butter or lard, and cover well when cold.
+Place the pot in a cool and dry place, and they will keep for months.</p>
+
+<p>When you wish to eat them, take out the quantity you want, and place it
+in a frying-pan, with the butter or lard that is around; fry till warm,
+and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BREAD-CRUMBS.</h4>
+
+<p>Put slices of stale bread in a slow oven till they are perfectly dried
+up. Break them in pieces and reduce them to coarse powder with a rolling
+pin; sift them, and they are ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>Bread-crumbs are better than cracker-crumbs; the latter, when reduced to
+powder, are too floury, and besides, there is always stale bread enough
+in a kitchen to make crumbs.</p>
+
+<p>The above crumbs are rather brown.</p>
+
+<p><i>White crumbs.</i>&mdash;Cut in rather large dice the soft part of stale bread,
+put the pieces in a new and coarse towel, rub between the hands so as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>
+to reduce the pieces of bread to crumbs; pass through a colander or
+through a sieve, according to need, coarse or fine, and use.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BURNT SUGAR.</h4>
+
+<p>Take an old tin ladle and place it over a sharp fire, with two ounces of
+loaf sugar in it; stir with a stick or skewer till it is thoroughly
+black and burnt. Then add, little by little, about one gill of water;
+stir a little, boil about four minutes, but not fast, lest it should
+boil over the ladle; strain, and it is made.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as cold, bottle it and use when wanted.</p>
+
+<p>It keeps any length of time.</p>
+
+<p>It is used to color broth, sauces, gravies, etc.</p>
+
+<p>It is called <i>caramel</i> in French.</p>
+
+
+<h4>COFFEE.</h4>
+
+<p>It is simple to make coffee. Of course, when properly made, with good
+berries, the liquor is good.</p>
+
+<p>When good roasted coffee can be bought, it saves the trouble of roasting
+it, and is, or rather ought to be, cheaper than it can be done in a
+family.</p>
+
+<p>If coffee is roasted a long time before being used it loses much of its
+aroma, therefore a family ought not to roast more than it can use in
+about a week, while twenty or twenty-five pounds can be roasted at one
+time and by one person.</p>
+
+<p>Three or four different kinds, roasted separately, and properly mixed,
+make better coffee than one kind alone.</p>
+
+<p>A good proportion is: to one pound of Java add about four ounces of
+Mocha, and four ounces of one or two other kinds.</p>
+
+<p>Good coffee, as well as tea, is said to possess exhilarating
+properties.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>
+<p>Its use was not known in Europe before 1650. Neither was the use of
+sugar, tobacco, and brandy.</p>
+
+<p>Good coffee cannot be made but by leaching.</p>
+
+<p>The easiest utensil is what is called a filter, or coffee-pot, or
+biggin, according to locality, with a top to diffuse the water.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0048a.jpg" width="96" height="203" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The coffee-pot called "the French balance" makes the best-flavored
+coffee, but it is an expensive one.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0048b.jpg" width="132" height="178" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>There are several good filters, but the great majority or the people
+find them too complicated for daily use.</p>
+
+<p>The bottom of the filter should be of silvered brass-gauze instead of
+perforated tin, as it is generally.</p>
+
+<p>Gauze-holes being much smaller than those of perforated tin, the coffee
+can be ground much finer, and therefore, all the strength and aroma can
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>
+be had; while if ground coarse, it is utterly impossible.</p>
+
+<p>Good coffee cannot be made in a utensil often but wrongly called a
+<i>coffee-pot</i>, which is nothing but a pot, and something like a tea-pot.</p>
+
+<p>With such a utensil, the grounds must be boiled; and as no liquor can be
+boiled without allowing the steam to escape (the steam made by boiling
+coffee being its aroma), therefore the best part of the coffee is
+evaporated before it is served.</p>
+
+<p>Never grind your coffee until ready to make it.</p>
+
+<p>No matter how air-tight you keep it, the aroma evaporates or is
+absorbed.</p>
+
+<p>Coffee can be ground and made as soon as cool; but it is better to let
+it stand for about twenty-four hours after being roasted.</p>
+
+<p>If kept as air-tight as possible in a tin-box, it will keep very well
+for about a week.</p>
+
+<p>Never buy ground coffee except when you cannot help it.</p>
+
+<p>By taking a pinch of ground coffee and rolling it between wetted
+fingers, it will remain in grains, if pure; and will form in a ball if
+foreign matters are mixed with it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TO ROAST.</h4>
+
+<p>In roasting, good coffee swells about thirty-three per cent., and loses
+about sixteen per cent. in weight.</p>
+
+<p>Roast once a week or oftener.</p>
+
+<p>Put coffee in the apparatus (cylinder, or drum, or roaster), the
+quantity to be according to the size of the roaster, or according to how
+much is needed. Have a rather slow fire at first; when the coffee has
+swollen, augment the fire, turning, shaking, tossing the roaster,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>
+sometimes fast, sometimes slowly, and take from the fire a little
+before it is roasted enough; the roasting will be finished before the
+coffee gets cold and before taking it from the roaster, which you
+continue turning and shaking as if it were yet on the fire.</p>
+
+<p>A charcoal fire is the handiest, and more easily regulated.</p>
+
+<p>It is well roasted when it evaporates a pleasing odor and when of a
+brownish color.</p>
+
+<p>Then take it from the roaster, spread it on a matting or on a piece of
+cloth, and put it in a tin-box as soon as cold.</p>
+
+<p>It is exceedingly difficult, if not utterly impossible, to roast coffee
+properly by machinery, and for two reasons: in the first place, there is
+too much of it in the cylinder to roast evenly, some berries are burned,
+others not roasted enough; the other is, that being turned by machinery,
+the cylinder is turned regularly and is neither shaken nor tossed; and
+even if there were not too much coffee in it, some berries would be much
+more roasted than others.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TO MAKE.</h4>
+
+<p>Set a kettle of cold water on the fire. Place the ground coffee in the
+filter, and as soon as the water begins to boil, pour just enough of it
+over the coffee to wet it. Put the kettle back on the fire, and again,
+at the first boiling, pour it over the coffee rather slowly, and till
+you have poured enough water to furnish the quantity of coffee required.</p>
+
+<p>If the water does not pass through fast enough, just stop pouring for a
+few seconds, that is, long enough to put the kettle back on the fire and
+start the boiling again. As soon as the water has passed through, the
+coffee is made. The quantity of coffee must be according to the strength
+you wish it, and the quantity wanted, or according to age and
+constitution.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>
+<p>Four teaspoonfuls make a quart of very good coffee for breakfast. It
+would be rather strong for children, but can be diluted to a proper
+state with milk.</p>
+
+<p>No matter what quantity of coffee is put in the filter, the liquor must
+be clear; the more is used, the blacker the substance is, but it must
+never be muddy. If muddy at all, be sure you have not used good coffee.</p>
+
+<p>One pound of good coffee to a quart of water, should make black but
+clear coffee.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CAF&Eacute; AU LAIT.</h4>
+
+<p>This is coffee and milk for breakfast. The milk is set on the fire in a
+tin saucepan, and taken off when it rises; then mixed with the coffee,
+either in the cup or any kind of vessel. The proportions are pint for
+pint.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CAF&Eacute; NOIR.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Caf&eacute; noir</i> is the name given to the coffee taken after dinner. It is
+generally made rather strong. Gentlemen sometimes put liquor in it&mdash;a
+glass of brandy, or rum, or kirschwasser; and ladies, a little cold
+milk.</p>
+
+<p>Taken fifteen or twenty minutes after dinner, it helps digestion. It
+excites the faculties of the mind, and gives what physiologists call
+"agreeable sensations."</p>
+
+<p>Coffee is nutritious, and to a certain extent prevents waste of the
+system.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CHOCOLATE.</h4>
+
+<p>The quantity of chocolate for a certain quantity of milk is according to
+taste. Two ounces of chocolate make a good cup of it, and rather thick.</p>
+
+<p>Break the chocolate in pieces, put it in a tin saucepan with a
+tablespoonful of water to an ounce of chocolate, and set it on a rather
+slow fire. Stir now and then till thoroughly melted.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>
+<p>While the chocolate is melting, set the quantity of milk desired in
+another tin saucepan on the fire, and as soon as it rises and when the
+chocolate is melted, as directed above, turn the milk into the
+chocolate, little by little, beating well at the same time with an
+egg-beater. Keep beating and boiling after being mixed, for three or
+four minutes; take off and serve.</p>
+
+<p>If both chocolate and milk are good, it will be frothy; and no better or
+more nutritious drink can be had.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CHOCA.</h4>
+
+<p>Choca is nothing more nor less than one cup of coffee and milk mixed
+with a cup of chocolate, and for breakfast.</p>
+
+
+<h4>COCOA.</h4>
+
+<p>Put in a tea or coffee cup one or two tablespoonfuls of ground cocoa,
+pour boiling water or boiling milk on it, little by little, stirring
+with a spoon the while; sweeten it to taste. A few drops of essence of
+vanilla may be added, according to taste.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ESSENCE OF SPINACH, OR GREEN ESSENCE.</h4>
+
+<p>Put two handfuls of very green and fresh spinach in a mortar and pound
+it well. Then put it in a saucepan, set on a rather slow fire, and when
+on the point of boiling take it off, pass it through a sieve and use. It
+may be kept for some time with a little sugar.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ESSENCE OF BEEF.</h4>
+
+<p>The essence of beef of commerce is well known.</p>
+
+<p>To make essence of beef used in cooking and called <i>glace</i> in French,
+set three or four quarts of broth on a slow fire, in a saucepan and
+reduce it to jelly. Keep it simmering all the time; it may take twenty
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span>
+hours to reduce. When properly reduced, it is of a very dark-brown
+color and has a very pleasant odor.</p>
+
+<p>When cold, it must be rather hard.</p>
+
+<p>When essence of beef tastes like glue and has an unpleasant odor, it is
+not made properly, or with good beef.</p>
+
+<p>If properly made, it will keep any length of time.</p>
+
+<p>It is used to thicken sauces, to decorate boned birds, etc.; when in a
+hurry, it may be used to make soup, but, like every thing preserved, is
+of course inferior to fresh broth.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ICING.</h4>
+
+<p>Put about three tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar in a bowl with the
+white of a small egg; and then mix and work well for at least five
+minutes with a piece of wood. When done it is perfectly white and rather
+thick.</p>
+
+<p>Make a kind of funnel with thick, white paper; put the mixture in it,
+and by squeezing it out, you make decorations according to fancy, on
+cakes, charlotte russe, etc. You make the decorations of the size you
+please, by cutting the smaller end of the paper-funnel of the size you
+wish.</p>
+
+<p>The mixture may also be spread on cakes with a knife, according to what
+kind of decoration is desired.</p>
+
+<p>A charlotte russe may be decorated in the same way, with the same cream
+as that used to fill it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MEAT JELLIES.</h4>
+
+<p>Put in a saucepan two ounces of gelatine with three eggs and shells, a
+tablespoonful of salt, the rind of half a lemon, a liquor-glass of rum
+or brandy, or a wine-glass of sherry, port, or madeira wine; mix well
+the whole. Add one quart of broth, twelve pepper-corns; beat the whole
+well with an egg-beater and set on a good fire; stir gently till it
+comes to a boil; then move it on a rather slow fire; boil slowly for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>
+about eight minutes and turn into the jelly-bag. Have two bowls at hand
+to be used alternately; have one under the bag before turning the jelly
+into it; and when it has passed through the bag once, turn it into the
+bag again, putting the other bowl under; repeat this three or four
+times, and it will be perfectly clear. Just before turning into the bag
+the first time, a few drops of burnt sugar are added to give the jelly
+an amber color. Use the jelly immediately if wanted in liquid form, as
+to fill a meat-pie, etc., or put it on ice to congeal.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boned-turkey Jelly.</i>&mdash;As soon as the water in which you have boiled a
+boned turkey is cold, skim off the fat and strain it. Then proceed
+exactly as for meat jelly, except that you take one quart of the above
+instead of one quart of beef broth.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boned-chicken Jelly.</i>&mdash;Prepare the water in which the boned chicken has
+been cooked, the same as above; take a quart of it and proceed as for
+meat jelly for the rest.</p>
+
+<p>For jelly to decorate any boned bird, the water in which it has been
+cooked may be used, as described above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Calves'-feet Jelly.</i>&mdash;Scald well four calves' feet, and split each in
+two lengthwise. Put them in a saucepan with about three pints of water,
+two onions, two cloves, two cloves of garlic, six sprigs of parsley, one
+of thyme, a stalk of celery if handy, salt, and half a dozen
+pepper-corns. Set on the fire, boil gently till well cooked. Serve the
+feet with a <i>poulette</i> or <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Strain the liquor; put in it two eggs with their shells, salt, rum or
+wine, as in meat jelly; beat the whole well with an egg-beater; set on a
+good fire, and finish like meat jelly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Calf's-head Jelly.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above in every particular,
+except that you use four eggs, having about twice as much liquor,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>
+therefore making twice as much jelly. A little gelatine may be added, if
+not found firm enough.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MEAT GRAVY.</h4>
+
+<p>When you are short of gravy, cut a little piece of veal, say half a
+pound of the breast or neck piece, or trimmings of veal-cutlets; set on
+the fire with about an ounce of butter, and half of a rather small
+carrot cut in slices; stir, and when the meat is turning rather brown,
+add two or three onions in slices also; stir again till the onions are
+nearly fried; when covered with broth or water, add salt, a dozen whole
+peppers, a bay-leaf, and two stalks of thyme; boil gently for two or
+three hours, and strain.</p>
+
+<p>If it is boiling away, add water to fill up.</p>
+
+<p>Trimmings of mutton, lamb, beef, chicken, or turkey, may be added to the
+veal.</p>
+
+<p>In case of hurry, it may be done quickly and by boiling rather fast, but
+it is not as good, and there is less of it with the same quantity of
+meat.</p>
+
+<p>For a grand dinner, the gravy may be made one or two and even three days
+in advance; then simmer it for five or six hours.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MELONS.</h4>
+
+<p>Musk-melons are always served as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, but must be eaten
+immediately after soup, or the first thing of all if no soup is served.</p>
+
+<p>It is a great mistake to serve melons as a dessert.</p>
+
+<p>Water-melons, though eaten abundantly, are considered very unwholesome
+by the great majority of doctors, chemists, and physiologists.</p>
+
+<p>Musk-melons are served in slices with sugar, or with salt and pepper,
+according to taste.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span>
+<h4>MEUNI&Egrave;RE.</h4>
+
+<p>Mix well together in a cup one teaspoonful of flour with a tablespoonful
+of cold water.</p>
+
+<p>It is used to thicken sauces and different dishes.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MINT.</h4>
+
+<p>Put four sprigs of mint into a quart of brandy, cork well, or cover
+air-tight if in a pot, and leave thus forty-eight hours; then strain
+through a cloth. Put half a pound of loaf sugar in a stewpan with a pint
+of water, set it on the fire, and, at the first boiling, pour it into
+the quart of brandy; cover with a cloth, let it cool, and again strain
+the whole through a fine cloth. Bottle and cork carefully, and use when
+wanted.</p>
+
+<p>A small liquor-glass of it is very good for stomach-ache; it is also
+useful after having eaten any thing difficult of digestion.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PANADE.</h4>
+
+<p>Break in pieces the soft part of a small stale loaf of bread; put it in
+a tin saucepan, cover it with cold water, and leave thus about an hour;
+then mash it well, set it on the fire, add salt, butter, and sugar, to
+taste; simmer about an hour, then add again two yolks of eggs beaten
+with two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk; mix the whole well together,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p>It makes an excellent food for infants.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PAP.</h4>
+
+<p>Put an ounce of butter in a tin saucepan, set it on the fire, and when
+melted, turn into it two tablespoonfuls of flour, thoroughly mixed with
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span>
+half a pint of milk; stir with a wooden spoon, boil gently for about
+twelve minutes, stirring the while; take off, turn into a bowl, add salt
+and sugar to taste, and use.</p>
+
+<p>If wanted richer, an egg may be mixed with the flour and milk, or a yolk
+of egg may be added as soon as taken from the fire.</p>
+
+
+<h4>RAISINS.</h4>
+
+<p>When the stems of raisins or of currants are removed, put them in a
+bowl, dust them well with flour, move them round a little, then turn
+them into a sieve and shake them well. This process will remove the sand
+as well as washing them, and will not take away the sweetness.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SANDWICHES.</h4>
+
+<p>These are too well known to require any direction.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SAUSAGE-MEAT.</h4>
+
+<p>Butchers generally, with an eye to economy, make sausage-meat of bad or
+tainted pork.</p>
+
+<p>We recommend our readers, as far as possible, never to buy sausage-meat
+ready made, but to make it themselves, or have it made according to
+their directions.</p>
+
+<p>A chopping-machine costs very little, and saves a great deal of work,
+besides chopping much better than can be done by hand.</p>
+
+<p>The proportions are: one pound of lean pork and one pound of lean veal,
+chopped very fine, well mixed, and both very fresh. Season with salt,
+pepper, nutmeg and clove grated, and with cinnamon, if liked.</p>
+
+<p>A yolk of egg may be added to a pound of meat.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be made with one pound of veal and half a pound or less of
+pork, or with veal only or pork only, according to taste.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span>
+<h4>SOUSE.</h4>
+
+<p>Put three ounces of butter in a saucepan, and set it on the fire; when
+melted, add two carrots and two onions sliced, stir now and then till
+they begin to turn brown; then add about three pints of warm water, half
+a pint of vinegar, one clove of garlic, four sprigs of parsley, one of
+thyme, a clove, a bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, a little grated nutmeg,
+and salt. Simmer about an hour, strain, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Put two quarts of vinegar and about ten quarts of water in a
+stone or crockery vessel, with four cloves of garlic, a handful of
+parsley, six cloves, four stalks of thyme, four bay-leaves, half a
+nutmeg grated, three or four carrots, and three or four onions sliced, a
+little salt, and two dozen pepper-corns. Stir and mix the whole well,
+and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>Pieces of mutton, beef, pork, venison, and bear-meat, may be soaked in
+one of the above preparations from four to six days before cooking them.
+A piece of tough meat will be more tender and juicy after being soaked.</p>
+
+<p>More or less may be made, according to the size of the piece of meat.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TEA.</h4>
+
+<p>There are many ways of making tea; we might say that every one makes it
+in his own way; but, after many experiments and much information, we
+have found the following to be the best:</p>
+
+<p>Warm the teapot either by pouring boiling water in it and emptying it,
+or by placing it on a corner of the range.</p>
+
+<p>Then put good tea in it (the quantity to be according to the strength
+and also to the quantity you want), and pour boiling water on the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span>
+leaves, just enough to wet them; leave thus about one minute, then pour
+on all the water you want.</p>
+
+<p>Let it steep no longer than about six minutes, and not less than four
+minutes, before drawing it.</p>
+
+<p>If allowed to steep longer than six minutes, all the astringency of the
+tea is extracted, and it acts and has a bad effect on the nervous
+system, besides losing most of its aroma.</p>
+
+<p>Chemists and physiologists generally recommend black tea, as not
+affecting the nervous system as much as green tea.</p>
+
+<p>Tea being naturally very astringent, should never be served at
+breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>Taken after dinner, instead of <i>caf&eacute; noir</i>, it has the same effect, and
+brandy may be mixed with it as in coffee.</p>
+
+<p>Tea is excellent in damp climates and marshy countries, but it must be
+taken after a substantial meal.</p>
+
+<p>Drinking warm tea while eating causes the food to pass through the
+system without nourishing it, or supplying its waste.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TOAST.</h4>
+
+<p>Cut several slices of bread of even size, and spread some anchovy-butter
+on them; cut anchovies in small strips, lengthwise, lay them on the
+bread also, and then spread over some hard-boiled egg chopped fine, and
+on it some parsley also chopped fine, finish with capers here and there.</p>
+
+<p>Place the toast or slices of bread on a dish, tastefully arranged all
+around, a few sprigs of parsley in the middle, and you have a fine
+<i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Sardines, Dutch herrings, or red herrings may be used the same as
+anchovies.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span>
+<h4>WELSH RAREBIT.</h4>
+
+<p>This dish is not generally understood. It is thought by many to be Welsh
+rabbit, that is, a rabbit prepared <i>Welsh fashion</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is not a rabbit, but Welsh cheese (a certain kind only, and prepared
+for that purpose), melted to a certain degree, and then spread on toast
+of Welsh bread.</p>
+
+<p>Grate some Gloucester or Gruy&egrave;re cheese and pepper it with Cayenne
+pepper. Fry some slices of bread with a little butter, but on one side
+only, until perfectly yellow, then spread a thick coat of grated cheese
+on the fried side of the bread, place the slices in a baking-pan, put
+them in a pretty warm oven, take off when it begins to melt, and serve
+warm.</p>
+
+<p>Then you have as good a Welsh rarebit as can be made here. The receipt
+was given to us by an English lady.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="POTAGES" id="POTAGES"></a>POTAGES OR SOUPS.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Potage is the modern word for soup, and is used in bills of fare
+everywhere.</p>
+
+<p>Three kinds of liquor are used to make potages: broth, milk, and water.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the liquor, meat, fish, and vegetables are used.</p>
+
+<p>The richest potages are made with <i>consomm&eacute;</i> and some other compounds;
+such as bread, Italian pastes, vegetables, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Consomm&eacute;</i> means rich broth; literally, it means consumed, perfect, that
+is, properly reduced and partly consumed, as it is the case in making
+it. <i>Consomm&eacute;</i> is broth reduced to a certain point, according to want or
+taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broth.</i>&mdash;Broth is to good cooking what wheat is to bread. Dishes (with
+some exceptions) prepared without broth are, to those prepared with it,
+what rye or corn bread is to wheat bread. Broth, and especially
+<i>consomm&eacute;</i>, are to old age what milk is to the infant. Broth is called
+<i>bouillon</i> in France, and <i>stock</i> in England. The word <i>pot-au-feu</i>
+means the meat, vegetables, seasonings, spices, and the "pot" or
+soup-kettle itself, <i>i. e.</i>, every thing made use of in making broth.
+The popular meaning of the term in France is, the soup and the beef and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span>
+vegetables served as <i>relev&eacute;s</i>; and, with the working-classes, the only
+thing (with bread, wine, and fruit) composing the family dinner. The
+French army is fed on this <i>pot-au-feu</i> three hundred and sixty days in
+the year.</p>
+
+<p>It is a great mistake to believe that bones or veal make good broth; by
+boiling or simmering bones or veal, you obtain a gelatinous liquid, but
+not a rich broth with a pleasant flavor. When properly made, broth is
+clear. If milky, it has been made with bones, veal, or very inferior
+beef.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broth for Potages.</i>&mdash;Take three pounds of good, lean, fresh beef, from
+any part except the shin. There must not be more than two ounces of bone
+to a pound of meat, and the less bone the better. Place the meat in a
+soup-kettle or iron saucepan lined with tin, with three quarts of cold
+water and salt, and set it on a good fire. After about thirty minutes,
+the scum or albumen of the meat will gather on the surface, and the
+water will commence boiling. Now place the kettle on a more moderate
+fire, add one gill of cold water, and begin to skim off the scum, which
+will take only a few minutes. Then add one middle-sized carrot, half as
+much turnip, one middle-sized leek, a stalk of celery, one of parsley, a
+bay-leaf, one onion with two cloves stuck in it, and two cloves of
+garlic. Keep the kettle between simmering and boiling heat for about
+five hours. Dish the meat with carrot, turnip, and leek around it, and
+serve it as a <i>relev&eacute;</i>. Strain the broth, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>If the broth is required to be richer, use more beef and less water, but
+follow the same process; if weaker, use more water and less beef, but
+still follow the same process.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broth for Sauces and Gravies.</i>&mdash;Place in a soup-kettle or saucepan
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span>
+fresh bones of beef, mutton, lamb, veal, or poultry&mdash;of either, or of
+all; also, bones of the same meats from roasted pieces; also trimmings
+of the same, if very fresh, with one quart of cold water to every pound
+of bones or meat; skim it like the preceding, add the same vegetables
+and seasonings, and simmer for at least six hours. Then skim off very
+carefully all the fat on the surface, pass the remainder through a
+strainer or a sieve, and it is ready for use. This broth is certainly
+very inferior to the preceding one, but it is excellent for sauces and
+gravies, and is very cheaply made. It may be used for potages also; but,
+as we have said above, it is very gelatinous, and cannot be compared
+with the highly nutritious beef-broth.</p>
+
+<p>Broth that is not to be used immediately must be cooled quickly after
+being strained, as the quicker it is cooled the longer it keeps. As soon
+as cold, put it in a stone jar or crockery vessel, and place it in a
+cool, dry, and dark place. It will keep three or four days in winter,
+but only one day in summer. If the weather is stormy, it will not keep
+even for twelve hours; it turns sour very quickly.</p>
+
+<p>I do not put parsnips or thyme in broth, the taste of these two
+vegetables being too strong. They really neutralize the fine aroma of
+broth. Even in this nineteenth century there are some pretty good cooks
+who put thyme and parsnip in broth, but they do it by routine. Routine
+is in every thing the greatest enemy of progress. Ancient cookery used
+to put in the <i>pot</i> (old name for soup-kettle) a burnt onion to give an
+amber color to the broth. This has exactly the same effect as thyme and
+parsnip, giving it a bad taste, and neutralizing the flavor given to the
+broth by the osmazome of the meat. When broth of an amber color is
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span>
+desired, add to it a few drops of burnt sugar, the receipt for making
+which will be found elsewhere.</p>
+
+<p><i>Consomm&eacute;.</i>&mdash;There are two ways of making <i>consomm&eacute;</i>: one is to make
+broth as above, with the exception that five pounds of lean beef,
+instead of three, are used with three quarts of water, and simmered from
+seven to eight hours, instead of five, the vegetables and seasonings
+being the same; or by boiling broth gently till properly reduced.</p>
+
+<p>The other way is to roast, until they are only one-third done, one, two,
+or three fowls, not under two years old; then place them in a
+soup-kettle with three pounds of lean beef; wet with three quarts of
+cold water; skim off as above directed; add the same vegetables and
+seasonings as for broth for potages. After having simmered the whole for
+three hours, the fowl or fowls must be taken out of the kettle, and the
+rest is to be simmered for about three hours longer. The meat,
+vegetables, and seasonings are then taken from the kettle or saucepan;
+the liquor is strained, and that liquor is the best <i>consomm&eacute;</i> that can
+be made; or by boiling the same, gently, in three quarts of good broth,
+you make <i>consomm&eacute;</i> also.</p>
+
+<p>The reason for directing to use one, two, or three fowls is, that the
+more fowls used, the better and richer the broth. The fowls after having
+been thus used may be prepared in salad, and make a very excellent dish.</p>
+
+<p>One pound of beef is enough to make broth for a potage for three or four
+persons.</p>
+
+<p>Always use fresh meat; meat with a venison taste or tainted would spoil
+if not entirely destroy the broth.</p>
+
+<p><i>To clarify Broth.</i>&mdash;If not as clear as wanted, beat the white of an egg
+with a gill of cold broth, and turn into the broth; boil gently about
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span>
+ten minutes, and strain through a cloth or towel.</p>
+
+<p>Any kind of potage made with broth may be made with <i>consomm&eacute;</i>. It may
+also be made with water, adding butter. With <i>consomm&eacute;</i> it is richer,
+and with water much inferior, than with broth.</p>
+
+<p>When a rump-piece is used to make broth, it is better to bone it first,
+and take it from the soup-kettle after three or four hours; it is served
+as a <i>relev&eacute;</i>, or prepared as cold beef. The broth is finished as
+directed; the bones and vegetables being kept on the fire longer than
+the meat.</p>
+
+<p>Chicken and turkey broth are often called <i>potage de sant&eacute;</i> (potage of
+health).</p>
+
+<p><i>Chicken.</i>&mdash;Roast or bake till turning yellow, a chicken over two years
+old. Put it in a soup-kettle with three pints of water, and set it on a
+rather slow fire; skim off the scum, add a middling-sized onion, a leek,
+a few stalks of chervil if handy, a middling-sized head of lettuce, and
+salt; simmer about three hours. Take out the chicken and vegetables,
+skim off the fat, strain, and use. This broth is excellent for a weak
+stomach, and is easy of digestion. The chicken is served in salad.</p>
+
+<p><i>Turkey.</i>&mdash;Procure a rather old turkey and roast or bake it till about
+one-third done; put it in a soup-kettle with about a pint of water to a
+pound of meat, and set it on a rather slow fire. As soon as the scum
+comes on the surface, skim it off carefully; then add two onions, two
+leeks, two or three heads of lettuce, a small handful of chervil if
+handy, and salt. Simmer about five hours.</p>
+
+<p>Use the broth as chicken-broth above, and serve the turkey in salad.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fish</i> (also called <i>&agrave; la Lucullus</i>).&mdash;Slice three middling-sized
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span>
+onions and fry them with one ounce of butter till turning yellow; add
+three or four pounds of fish (bass, pike, trout, salmon, and the like),
+any fish having a firm and compact flesh, of one or several kinds; add
+also two carrots, two onions, and one leek, all sliced; four stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, one clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, one clove, six
+pepper-corns, salt; cover the whole with cold water, set on a good but
+not brisk fire, boil gently for about two hours. If the water is boiling
+away, add some more; then strain, and use.</p>
+
+<p>This broth may be used for <i>bisque</i> and fish sauces, instead of
+beef-broth.</p>
+
+<p>It may be made rich; for instance, instead of three pounds of fish, use
+six, seven, eight pounds, or more, and seasonings in proportion.</p>
+
+<p>Louis XV. was on a visit to the monastery of Saint Denis one day during
+Lent; after having walked all over the grounds and gardens, he was
+offered a cup of broth by the superior.</p>
+
+<p>Being a little fatigued, he took the cup and drank the whole at one
+draught.</p>
+
+<p>In going back to Versailles, one of his suite, who did not like the
+monk-superior, adroitly alluded to the cup of broth, and managed to
+persuade the king that the monk had done it on purpose; that is, had
+made the king partake of meat-broth, when it was forbidden by the
+Church.</p>
+
+<p>The next day the monk-superior was sent for and brought before the king.
+On hearing the object of the summons, he asked the king if the broth had
+indisposed him. Being answered in the negative, he begged to be allowed
+to prepare the same broth before the king himself, which he did, and
+from that time till his death the king used to send several hundred
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>
+pounds of fish during Lent to the monks of Saint-Denis.</p>
+
+<p><i>Frog.</i>&mdash;Skin and put the hind-legs of two dozen of frogs in cold water
+for an hour; drain and put them in a saucepan, and set it on a slow
+fire; stir now and then till they are turning yellow, then take them off
+and chop the flesh rather fine; put back in the pan with a carrot
+sliced, a stalk of celery and one leek, both chopped, a little salt, and
+cover the whole with water. Simmer for about two hours; mash the whole
+through a colander, add butter which you stir and mix in, and it is
+ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>This broth, taken warm before retiring, is excellent for persons having
+a cough or cold.</p>
+
+<p>It is also excellent for consumptive persons, and is only second to
+snail-broth.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Take the hind-legs of fifty well-skinned green frogs, put
+them in cold water and a little salt for half an hour&mdash;drain them; then
+put them in a crockery kettle, with a leek, half a carrot, two stalks of
+celery, a middling-sized parsnip, a turnip, two onions, one clove of
+garlic, two ounces of fat bacon, a little salt, and white pepper; cover
+the whole well with cold water, set on the fire, simmer gently about
+four hours; strain, pour on <i>croutons</i>, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>The hind-legs of the frogs are taken from the strainer, placed on a
+dish, and served at breakfast the next day, with a white sauce, or in
+fricassee, as a chicken.</p>
+
+<p><i>Game.</i>&mdash;Roast or bake, till about one-third done, two prairie-hens, and
+put them in a soup-kettle with about one pound of lean beef, salt, and
+five pints of water. Set the kettle on a rather slow fire, skim off the
+scum when it gathers on the surface, and then add half a carrot, two
+stalks of parsley, one of celery, one onion with a clove stuck in it, a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span>
+bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, and two cloves of garlic. Simmer about three
+hours, and take the birds out of the kettle; simmer then two hours
+longer; strain, and the broth is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>Game-broth is warming and stimulating; it may be taken alone, or
+prepared with <i>croutons</i>, rice, vermicelli, or other Italian pastes, the
+same as beef-broth.</p>
+
+<p>The prairie-hens are served in <i>salmis</i>, and the beef is served as
+boiled beef.</p>
+
+<p><i>Snail.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare twenty-five snails as directed. Put them in
+a saucepan, with a carrot, an onion, and a head of lettuce, all chopped,
+a small handful of chervil, a few leaves of sorrel, and a little salt;
+cover the whole with three pints of cold water. Boil slowly for about
+three hours, strain the broth, add a little butter to it, and it is
+ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>A tumblerful of this broth, taken warm before retiring, is certainly the
+best thing for a consumptive person.</p>
+
+<p>It is also excellent for a cough.</p>
+
+<p>Just salt the snails to taste, and eat them as they are, warm or cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Veal.</i>&mdash;Procure two pounds of veal, from the neck or breast piece. Put
+the meat in a soup-kettle with two quarts of cold water and a little
+salt; set it on a good fire, and skim off the scum as soon as it gathers
+on the surface. When skimmed, add a head of lettuce, a leek (and a few
+stalks of chervil if handy); simmer for about three hours; strain, and
+use.</p>
+
+<p>This broth, as well as chicken and turkey broth, is excellent for
+convalescent persons.</p>
+
+<p>It may be made richer by putting a little more meat, according to taste;
+but generally the physician gives directions.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span>
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Soak a calf's liver in cold water for two hours, clean and
+wash it well; put it in a soup-kettle with about three pints of cold
+water, salt, boil gently for an hour and a half, and then add a handful
+of water-cresses; simmer fifteen minutes longer, strain and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above in every particular, except that you use a
+handful of chervil instead of water-cresses.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Use three or four leeks instead of water-cresses, and
+proceed as above for every other particular.</p>
+
+<p>The last three especially make a very refreshing drink, and are a great
+relief in some cases of fever.</p>
+
+<p><i>Vegetable Broth</i> (called also <i>Bouillon Maigre</i>).&mdash;Scrape, clean, and
+slice three carrots and three turnips, peel three onions; fry the whole
+with a little butter till it turns rather yellow; and then add two
+plants of celery cut in pieces, three or four leeks, also cut in pieces;
+stir and fry the whole for about six minutes. When fried, add also one
+clove of garlic, salt, pepper, two cloves, two stalks of parsley, a
+little nutmeg grated; cover with about three quarts of water. Keep on a
+rather slow fire, skim off the scum carefully, and then simmer for about
+three hours. Strain, and use.</p>
+
+<p>This liquor is called vegetable broth, and is used instead of broth in
+time of Lent by persons who do not want to use beef-broth.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above, and with the same vegetables till they are
+fried. Then add salt, pepper, two cloves of garlic, four stalks of
+parsley, three cloves, a little nutmeg grated, two quarts of white beans
+previously soaked in cold water for twenty-four hours, and five or six
+quarts of water. Skim it as above; simmer for about four hours; strain,
+and use.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span>
+<p>The beans, carrots, turnips, and leeks may be mashed through a colander
+and served in <i>pur&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above in every particular, with the exception
+that instead of using beans, you use peas, lentils, chestnuts, or samp.
+Peas and lentils are soaked in water only for four or five hours.
+Chestnuts must be shelled. Some other vegetables may be added, according
+to taste, and also according to the nature of the vegetables.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Clean and put in a bowl a head of lettuce, a handful of
+sorrel, same of chervil, same of purslane, and all chopped fine; pour
+over nearly a quart of boiling water, add two ounces of butter, cover
+the bowl with a wet towel; leave thus half an hour, and strain.</p>
+
+<p>When cold it makes a very refreshing drink, and is taken morning and
+evening with salt, to taste.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be taken warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Minute, or made quickly.</i>&mdash;Cut four ounces of fat salt pork in
+dice and set it on the fire in a saucepan; stir, and when it is turning
+rather brown add one onion chopped, and half a middling-sized carrot,
+sliced; stir, and when they are partly fried, add also two pounds of
+lean beef cut in small dice; stir and fry for five minutes. Then pour in
+it about three pints of boiling water, salt, boil gently about forty
+minutes. Strain, and use.</p>
+
+<p>The beef may be served with the broth, or separately as an <i>entr&eacute;e</i>,
+with a <i>piquante</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, or Robert sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bisque of Lobster.</i>&mdash;Boil one or several lobsters as directed, and when
+cold split the tail in two, lengthwise, take the flesh out of the shell,
+remove the black vein that is on the back, take out the meat of the two
+large claws, and keep the flesh of the claws and tail for the following
+day's breakfast.</p>
+
+<p>For a <i>bisque</i>, nothing is thrown away but the head, stomach, and black
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span>
+vein. The head is the part immediately under the eyes; the stomach is a
+small, round pouch immediately behind the head; and the vein runs from
+the stomach to the end of the tail.</p>
+
+<p>Put all the rest, shell, small claws, all the matter found in the large
+shell (green, white, or yellow), in a mortar and pound well. Then put a
+tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, set it on the fire, and when the
+butter is melted, put what is in the mortar in, stir with a wooden spoon
+for about ten minutes, then add one pint of warm broth, stir for about
+twenty minutes, and strain. Put the liquor back on the fire with about
+four ounces of toasted bread, boil five minutes, and mash through a
+colander. Put the liquor back again on the fire, add one quart of broth,
+boil gently ten minutes, and turn into the soup-dish.</p>
+
+<p>While it is boiling, chop fine the coral-piece of the lobster or
+lobsters, knead it with a piece of butter of about the same bulk, then
+rub both through a wire sieve; put them in the soup-dish with <i>croutons</i>
+and about two or three ounces of the flesh of the lobster cut in very
+small dice. Turn the broth into the soup-dish also, and as directed
+above, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>When there is no coral in the lobster or lobsters, knead a hard-boiled
+yolk of egg with butter in its stead.</p>
+
+<p>Use one, two, three, or more lobsters, according to how much soup is
+wanted. It is not costly, because the flesh, or most of it, is kept to
+make a salad the next day, for breakfast or lunch.</p>
+
+<p>The salad might be served the same day at dinner, but lobster is a
+rather heavy food, and it is more prudent not to eat any late in the
+day.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bisque of Lobster &agrave; la Colbert.</i>&mdash;Make a <i>bisque</i> as above, and while
+it is on the fire, poach as directed as many eggs as there will be
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span>
+persons at dinner; put them in the soup-dish instead of <i>croutons</i>, and
+serve as above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Crabs.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for a bisque of lobster in every particular,
+except that you use hard-shell crabs instead of lobster.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same &agrave; la Colbert.</i>&mdash;Add to the above as many poached eggs as you
+have guests.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Craw-fish (Bisque d'Ecrevisses).</i>&mdash;Our readers who have been in
+Europe will certainly remember the name of one of the best soups that
+can be made. It is made of craw-fish the same as with lobster, and is
+certainly more delicate than a <i>bisque</i> of lobster or of crabs. (See
+<span class="smcap">Craw-fish</span> for other particulars.)</p>
+
+<p>A <i>bisque</i> of craw-fish may also be served <i>&agrave; la Colbert</i> the same as a
+<i>bisque</i> of lobster.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bouillabaisse.</i>&mdash;The real <i>bouillabaisse</i> is made in Marseilles; they
+make an imitation of it in Bordeaux, and in many other parts of France
+and the Continent; but, like a Welsh rarebit prepared out of Wales, it
+is very inferior to the real one. However, we will give the receipt to
+make it here, and as good as possible with the fish that can be
+procured.</p>
+
+<p>Put a gill of sweet-oil in a tin saucepan and set it on a sharp fire;
+when hot, add two onions and two cloves of garlic sliced; stir so as to
+partly fry them, and then take from the fire. Put also in the pan three
+pounds of fish, such as haddock, halibut, turbot, white-fish&mdash;of all if
+possible, but at least of two kinds; also a dozen muscles, just blanched
+and taken from the shell (some put them whole, properly cleaned). The
+fish is cut in pieces about two inches long. Then add one gill of
+Catawba or Sauterne wine, a bay-leaf, two cloves, two slices of lemon,
+the juice of a tomato, salt, pepper, a pinch of saffron, cover with
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span>
+cold water, and set the pan back on a brisk fire. After about thirty
+minutes add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; boil ten minutes longer,
+and it is done.</p>
+
+<p>The pieces of fish are then placed on a dish and served.</p>
+
+<p>Put in a deep dish, and to be served at the same time, some slices of
+bread, over which you turn the sauce through a strainer.</p>
+
+<p>One slice of bread and one piece of fish is served to each person, also
+some sauce.</p>
+
+<p>It is put in two different dishes, to avoid breaking the pieces of fish.</p>
+
+<p>There are over a hundred ways of making a <i>bouillabaisse</i>; the above is
+one of the best.</p>
+
+<p>There are also about as many ways of spelling the same.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>bouillabaisse</i> is served as a soup.</p>
+
+
+<h4>POTAGES.</h4>
+
+<p><i>A la Colbert.</i>&mdash;Scrape carrots and turnips and cut them in small dice
+or with a vegetable spoon; add green peas and string-beans, if handy,
+the beans cut in pieces; set them on the fire in a pan with cold water
+and salt; boil gently till done, and drain. Put them back on the fire,
+covered with warm broth, salt to taste, boil gently about two or three
+minutes, and turn into the soup-dish, in which you have put as many
+poached eggs as there are or will be persons at table. A poached egg
+with soup is served to every person. Proportions of broth and vegetables
+according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Julienne.</i>&mdash;Scrape two carrots and two turnips and cut them in pieces
+about an inch and a half long; cut slices lengthwise about one-eighth of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span>
+an inch thick, then cut again across, so as to make square strips. Put
+them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter, three tablespoonfuls
+of cabbage chopped fine, and half a middling-sized onion, also chopped;
+set on the fire and stir till about half fried. Add broth to make it as
+you wish, thin or thick; boil gently till done; salt to taste, skim off
+the fat, and serve. It takes about two hours.</p>
+
+<p><i>Julienne with Rice.</i>&mdash;Boil two ounces of rice in water and a little
+salt, till about three-quarters done; drain and put in the julienne
+after having added the broth; finish as above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Julienne with Barley.</i>&mdash;Boil barley till done; add it to the <i>julienne</i>
+at the same time the broth is added, and serve as the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Julienne aux Croutons.</i>&mdash;Put some <i>croutons</i> in the soup-dish, and when
+the <i>julienne</i> is done, pour it over them, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brunoise.</i>&mdash;Put an ounce of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when
+melted, add one carrot, one turnip, a little celery, all cut in dice;
+stir till they turn yellow, then add about a quart of broth, a
+middling-sized leek cut in pieces, a few leaves of lettuce and of
+sorrel, if handy, and a pinch of sugar. Simmer about two hours; skim off
+the fat; add a few drops of burnt sugar to color.</p>
+
+<p>Have <i>croutons</i> in the soup-dish, turn the potage over them, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brunoise with Rice.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above, except that you add from two to
+four ounces of boiled rice to the potage ten minutes before taking from
+the fire. Serve without croutons.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Use boiled barley instead of boiled rice.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Monaco.</i>&mdash;Put some thin slices of stale bread in the soup-dish,
+sprinkle pulverized sugar and orange-rind grated all over. Pour boiling
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span>
+milk over; cover the dish for five minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la R&eacute;gence.</i>&mdash;Put about two dozen <i>quenelles</i> made with chicken into
+the soup-dish with half a pint of boiled green peas; turn boiling
+<i>consomm&eacute;</i> over, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Royale.</i>&mdash;Make a custard with a dozen yolks of eggs, about the
+same volume of good cream, season with sugar, salt, and a little nutmeg;
+cook, and when perfectly cold, cut it in slices and again cut in fancy
+shapes with paste-cutters or with a knife; place it in the soup-dish,
+pour boiling consomm&eacute; gently over, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Potage Printanier</i> (called also <i>Jardini&egrave;re</i> and <i>&agrave; la Paysanne</i>).&mdash;It
+is a potage <i>julienne</i>, to which is added the top or eatable part of six
+asparagus, six turnip-rooted red radishes, and two or three
+tablespoonfuls of green peas. They are fried, boiled, and served with
+the other vegetables.</p>
+
+<p><i>Velout&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Put yolks of eggs in the soup-dish and beat them a little
+with cold or lukewarm broth; then pour boiling broth over them, little
+by little, stirring the while, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>It is made thin or thick, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Arrow-root.</i>&mdash;Set broth in a saucepan on the fire, and as soon as
+it boils, sprinkle some arrow-root into it, stirring the while with a
+wooden spoon; boil gently for about half an hour, stirring now and then
+the while, and serve warm, adding salt to taste.</p>
+
+<p>Milk or <i>consomm&eacute;</i> may be used instead of broth.</p>
+
+<p>If you use milk, add a very little salt and sugar, to taste.</p>
+
+<p>The proportion of arrow-root to a certain quantity of broth is according
+to taste; it can be made thick or thin.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Corn-starch.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for arrow-root.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Bread.</i>&mdash;This is the simplest of all. Dry some slices of bread,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span>
+either stale or fresh, in the oven, place them in the soup-dish, pour
+boiling broth over them, cover the dish for two or three minutes, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Fecula.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for arrow-root. Being finer, it does not
+require more than about twelve or fifteen minutes.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Barley.</i>&mdash;Wash the barley in cold water, then drop it in boiling
+broth, little by little, stirring the while; when in, keep simmering
+till perfectly done, which you ascertain easily by tasting; add then
+salt to taste, a pinch of sugar, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>It must be stirred occasionally while on the fire.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Gruel</i> (<i>French Gruau</i>).&mdash;It is made as with arrow-root.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Indian Meal.</i>&mdash;Proceed as with arrow-root.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sago.</i>&mdash;Sago must be boiled gently about an hour; but for the
+rest, proceed as with arrow-root in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Semoule.</i>&mdash;With <i>semoule</i> it is the same as with arrow-root,
+except that it is boiled only about fifteen minutes.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Tapioca.</i>&mdash;Tapioca is prepared like arrow-root, but must be boiled
+about forty-five minutes.</p>
+
+<p>All the above, like arrow-root, may be prepared with <i>consomm&eacute;</i>, or with
+milk, as well as with broth.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Giblets.</i>&mdash;Throw the giblets in boiling water and a little salt,
+boil for ten minutes, take off and drain. Drop them in broth, boil
+gently till done, and turn the whole into the soup dish, in which you
+have some leeks, boiled and cut in pieces. Serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>Some <i>croutons</i> may be added, and chervil chopped fine, just before
+turning into the soup-dish; or they may be placed in the soup-dish
+before pouring in the broth.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Mackerel.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and cut in pieces about one inch and a
+half long, a mackerel weighing about one pound and a half; fry it with
+two ounces of butter till it turns rather brown, then cover with nearly
+a quart of water; add a few slices of carrot, same of turnip, a small
+onion, two or three stalks of parsley, salt, pepper, a clove of garlic,
+and a stalk of celery if handy; boil slowly for about an hour; mash
+gently through a colander, put what has passed through the colander back
+on the fire, add a little butter, give one more boil, turn into the soup
+dish over <i>croutons</i>, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With new Carrots.</i>&mdash;Take small, young carrots, clean and wash them,
+then blanch them for about five minutes. Set them on the fire, cover
+with broth or <i>consomm&eacute;</i>; boil gently till done, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;With carrots and peas. Proceed as above till the carrots are
+half done, then add blanched green peas; finish the cooking, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Make as the above, but using one or two heads of
+cabbage-lettuce, blanched for two minutes, instead of green peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fancy Potage.</i>&mdash;Take twelve very small rolls; cut off one end and
+remove all the soft part of it; fill them with <i>quenelles</i> of chicken;
+replace the piece cut off as well as possible; place them in the
+soup-dish; pour boiling <i>consomm&eacute;</i> or good broth over them; cover the
+dish for ten minutes, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Vermicelli.</i>&mdash;Drop the vermicelli in boiling water, and in which
+you have put a little salt; boil ten minutes, drain, drop again in cold
+water, drain again and put it in boiling broth; boil ten minutes; add
+salt to taste, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Macaroni.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for vermicelli in every particular, except
+that it takes twice as long to cook.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Macaroni and Cheese.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above, and when done,
+put grated cheese in the soup-dish, turn the macaroni over it, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Italian Pastes.</i>&mdash;No matter of what shape are the pastes, proceed
+as for vermicelli; the only difference is in the time of cooking, which
+depends on the size.</p>
+
+<p><i>Consomm&eacute;</i> may be used instead of broth. If milk is used, sugar must be
+added.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Macaroni &agrave; la Corinne.</i>&mdash;Set two quarts of cold water on the fire,
+with an ounce of salt, and two ounces of butter; at the first boil, drop
+into it four ounces of macaroni; boil five minutes, and drain.
+Immediately drop the macaroni in boiling <i>consomm&eacute;</i>, and boil gently
+till done. Drain it again and place a layer of it in the soup-dish, over
+the macaroni; place a thin layer of Parmesan cheese grated; then a layer
+of <i>mac&eacute;doine</i> of vegetables; then again, a layer of macaroni, one of
+cheese, etc.; pour <i>consomm&eacute;</i> to taste on the whole, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Macaroni &agrave; la M&eacute;dici</i> (also called <i>&agrave; la Napolitaine</i>).&mdash;Proceed
+as for macaroni <i>&agrave; la Corinne</i> in every particular, with the exception
+that you put also in the soup-dish a layer of <i>quenelles</i> of chicken
+over that of <i>mac&eacute;doine</i> of vegetables, and serve in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>quenelles</i> are boiled till done, in broth in which you put a few
+sprigs of mignonette.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Add to the above about a gill of thick tomato-sauce, just
+before pouring the <i>consomm&eacute;</i> over the macaroni, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Macaroni &agrave; la Romulus.</i>&mdash;Prepare eight ounces of macaroni as directed
+for macaroni <i>&agrave; la Corinne</i>; place a layer of it in the soup-dish; then
+over it a layer of <i>quenelles</i> of chicken; over the <i>quenelles</i>, a thin
+layer of grated Parmesan cheese; then a layer of thin slices of salt
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>
+beef tongue, boiled and skimmed; over the latter a layer of sweetbreads
+boiled in broth and cut in thin slices also; and lastly a layer of thin
+slices of boiled flounders. Several layers of each of the above may be
+placed in the soup dish, in the same order; then boiling <i>consomm&eacute;</i> is
+poured over the whole; the dish is covered, put in a warm place for ten
+minutes, and served.</p>
+
+<p>Although this dish is a regular potage, and served as such, still many
+Italians make a meal of it.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Macaroni &agrave; La Rossini.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for macaroni <i>&agrave; la Corinne</i>
+above, with two exceptions: first, that you add a layer of <i>quenelles</i>
+of partridge; and second, that you use <i>consomm&eacute;</i> of partridge.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Macaroni &agrave; la St. Pierre.</i>&mdash;Proceed also as for potage macaroni <i>&agrave;
+la Corinne</i> as far as placing a layer of macaroni in the soup-dish; then
+put over it a layer of boiled soft roe of fish; over which put a thin
+layer of grated Parmesan cheese; then a layer of <i>quenelles</i> of fish;
+another layer of macaroni; over it, a layer of boiled thin slices of
+salmon; macaroni again, etc. Pour boiling <i>consomm&eacute;</i> over the whole, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p>Although bearing the name of Saint Pierre (St. Peter), the above dish
+has not been devised by the saint; but, like all the above, save that <i>&agrave;
+la Corinne</i>, it has been invented by monks.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Nouilles.</i>&mdash;Set broth on the fire in a saucepan, and at the first
+boiling take the <i>nouilles</i> from the water with a skimmer and put in the
+broth, stir occasionally and boil gently till done. The proportions are
+according to taste. The more broth used for a certain quantity of
+<i>nouilles</i> the thinner the soup will be, and <i>vice versa</i>. Salt to
+taste, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Potatoes.</i>&mdash;Cut about half a pint of potatoes with a vegetable
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span>
+spoon (it is understood half a pint when cut, the rest being used to
+make mashed potatoes), and blanch them for three minutes, drain and put
+them in boiling broth; boil gently till about half done, add then two or
+three tablespoonfuls of green peas; finish the cooking; and just before
+serving add a pinch of sugar, salt to taste, turn into the soup-dish,
+and serve with or without croutons.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Quenelles.</i>&mdash;Drop <i>quenelles</i> in broth; boil gently till done, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p>The proportion according to taste. Half a dozen <i>quenelles</i> for each
+person, and about half a pint of broth, make a good proportion.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Rice.</i>&mdash;Put boiled rice in the soup-dish, turn boiling broth over
+it, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Turnips.</i>&mdash;When clean, cut the turnips in slices, drop them in
+boiling water, add a little salt, boil for five minutes, and drain. Set
+them on the fire in a saucepan, cover them with milk, and boil gently
+till done. Mash them through a colander, put them back on the fire with
+milk, butter, a little sugar and salt; stir and boil gently a few
+minutes; then add a yolk of egg for two turnips, stir in also two or
+three tablespoonfuls of cream; stir, but do not boil; put some
+<i>croutons</i> in the soup-dish, turn the turnips over, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pur&eacute;e of Split Peas.</i>&mdash;The proportions vary according to taste; the
+more peas that are used with a certain quantity of broth, the thicker
+the potage will be, and <i>vice versa</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Soak one pint of split peas in cold water over night and drain. Put them
+in a saucepan with a few slices of carrot, same of turnip, same of onion
+and salt. Cover with cold water, set on the fire and boil till done.
+Drain, and then mash through a colander. Put back on the fire with warm
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span>
+broth to taste&mdash;that is, to make the potage thin or thick, season with
+salt or pepper; boil gently for five minutes, stirring the while; turn
+into the soup-dish over <i>croutons</i>, and serve warm. It may be served
+without <i>croutons</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pur&eacute;e of Green Peas.</i>&mdash;It is sometimes called <i>&agrave; la Chantilly</i>, or <i>&agrave;
+la Fran&ccedil;aise</i>. Put cold water and a little salt on the fire, and at the
+first boiling throw the peas in; if they are very tender, leave them in
+only a few seconds; if large and rather hard, boil one or two minutes;
+drain, mash them through a colander, and finish as the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pur&eacute;e of Dry Beans.</i>&mdash;White and dry beans have several names, but no
+matter what kind, they are prepared alike. If you are not sure that the
+beans are new, soak them in cold water for about twenty-four hours, and
+drain. Cook, mash, and serve them the same as split peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pur&eacute;e of Lentils.</i>&mdash;Wash the lentils in cold water and proceed as for
+split peas for the rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pur&eacute;e of Peas.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for split peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Lima Beans.</i>&mdash;Proceed as with green peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Potatoes.</i>&mdash;Steam potatoes, then peel and mash them through a
+colander. Put them back on the fire with broth, butter, and salt to
+taste; stir, boil a few minutes, and serve with <i>croutons</i>. Water or
+milk may be used instead of broth.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Pumpkins.</i>&mdash;Peel, take away the seed and cut the pumpkin in small
+pieces; put them in a stewpan with water just enough to cover them, a
+little salt and white pepper, set on the fire and take off when cooked;
+throw away the water, mash and strain the pumpkin, put it back in the
+stewpan, cover with milk, add a little sugar, set it again on the fire,
+and take off at the first boiling; pour a little of it on <i>croutons</i> in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>
+the soup-dish, and keep covered in a warm place for ten minutes; then
+pour also the remainder in, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Prepare as above, throw the pieces in boiling water with a
+little salt for five minutes, mash and drain; put butter in a stewpan,
+set it on the fire; when melted put the pumpkin in, stir about five
+minutes; have ready in your soup-dish some slices of bread fried in
+butter, and dusted with sugar, pour on them some boiling milk, keep
+covered in a warm place two or three minutes; then turn the pumpkin on,
+at the same time mixing the whole gently, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Squash.</i>&mdash;It is made as with pumpkin.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Asparagus.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for green peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Jerusalem Artichokes.</i>&mdash;It is made like that of potatoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Carrots.</i>&mdash;When made with young carrots, it is called potage
+<i>pur&eacute;e Cr&eacute;cy</i>, or <i>&agrave; la Cr&eacute;cy</i>. Add broth to taste to a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of
+carrots, turn into the soup-dish over <i>croutons</i>, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With colored Beans.</i>&mdash;When made with colored beans, it is called <i>&agrave; la
+Cond&eacute;</i>. Proceed as with beans.</p>
+
+<p>The Prince of Cond&eacute; devised this potage, and besides cooking the beans
+in broth, he used to put in one or two partridges also, to give, as he
+used to say, "a good taste to the beans."</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cauliflowers.</i>&mdash;Make a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of cauliflowers, to which you add
+broth to taste, and serve with <i>croutons</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Chestnuts.</i>&mdash;Add broth and <i>croutons</i> to a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of chestnuts,
+and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Turnips.</i>&mdash;It is made as with carrots.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Wheat.</i>&mdash;Cut ears of wheat when full, but not ripe, and put them
+away to dry. Shell the wheat; wash it in cold water, put it in a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span>
+saucepan, cover it with broth and boil gently till done. Mash through a
+colander, put back on the fire with a little butter; add broth if too
+thick, stir now and then for about fifteen minutes; take from the fire,
+add two or three yolks of eggs beaten with a little cream and a pinch of
+sugar; mix them well with the rest, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sweet Corn.</i>&mdash;Proceed as with wheat in every particular. It makes
+a healthy and excellent potage.</p>
+
+<p>Water may be used instead of broth, but it is not as nutritive.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Swallows' Nests, or Chinese Soup.</i>&mdash;The nests are made a
+mucilaginous substance of, and built by the species of swallows called
+<i>Hirundo esculenta</i>; it would require several pages to describe them,
+together with their compound material, and would be out of place in a
+receipt book. Suffice it to say, that they sell for $100 a pound in
+London and Paris (gold of course), and the cheapest potage for one
+person costs about three dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Soak about four ounces of it in cold water for ten hours, drain and
+clean. Put it in a saucepan, cover well with chicken-broth, place the
+saucepan in boiling water for about two hours, add salt to taste, and
+then drain again. Place the nests in the soup-dish, pour boiling
+<i>consomm&eacute;</i> over them, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese are said to use very rich <i>consomm&eacute;</i> of chicken to prepare
+them.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Tomatoes and Rice.</i>&mdash;Blanch half a dozen tomatoes, and skin them.
+Put them in a saucepan with a quart of broth, season with an onion
+sliced, three or four sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, half a dozen
+pepper-corns, a bay-leaf, two cloves, two cloves of garlic; salt and
+pepper. Boil gently till reduced to about two-thirds, then mash gently
+through a colander. It is understood by mashing gently, to mash so that
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span>
+all the liquid part shall pass through the colander, and the seeds and
+spices shall be retained in it and thrown away.</p>
+
+<p>While the tomatoes are on the fire boiling, set four ounces of rice on
+the fire with cold water and salt, and boil it till tender. Drain the
+rice, put it in a saucepan with the tomato-juice after being mashed, set
+the saucepan on the fire, add one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of
+sugar, both according to taste; to make the potage thin or thick, boil
+gently fifteen minutes, turn into the soup-dish, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>The same may be done with canned tomatoes; in that case, set a can of
+tomatoes on the fire with the same seasonings, and proceed exactly as
+for the above in every other particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same with Croutons.</i>&mdash;Fry some <i>croutons</i> with a little butter, put
+them in the soup-dish; turn the potage, or rather the same mixture as
+above, over them; cover the soup-dish for two or three minutes, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Tomatoes and Croutons only.</i>&mdash;Fry the <i>croutons</i> and put them in
+the soup-dish; turn the tomatoes only over them, after being prepared as
+above; cover the soup-dish for two or three minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pur&eacute;e &agrave; la Reine.</i>&mdash;Procure a rather old chicken and cut it in pieces
+as for fricassee; set it on the fire in a saucepan with about a quart of
+cold water, salt, and boil gently about one hour. Then add about four
+ounces of rice, washed in cold water, continue boiling until the chicken
+is overdone and tender. Take the pieces of chicken from the pan, scrape
+the flesh off the bones; cut the white flesh (the flesh that is on both
+sides of the breast-bone) in dice, and put it in the soup-dish; chop
+fine all the other flesh, and then mash it through a sieve or strainer,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span>
+together with the rice. If it be rather too thick to mash through,
+moisten it with broth. A large iron spoon is the best utensil to mash
+through with. Then set the rice and flesh back on the fire in a saucepan
+with broth to taste, stir and add immediately from two to four ounces of
+butter, a gill of cream, or, if not handy, a gill of milk. Keep stirring
+on a slow fire for five or six minutes; salt to taste, turn into the
+soup-dish, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>There is no danger of curdling if kept on a slow fire and not allowed to
+boil.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same with Broth.</i>&mdash;To make the potage richer, cook the chicken and
+rice in broth instead of water, and proceed as above for the rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same with consomm&eacute;.</i>&mdash;The chicken and rice may also be cooked in
+<i>consomm&eacute;</i>, and when mashed through the sieve, add <i>consomm&eacute;</i> also
+instead of broth, and you have an exceedingly rich soup. This is
+excellent for persons having throat diseases; it is easily swallowed,
+and very nutritious.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same &agrave; la Fran&ccedil;aise.</i>&mdash;The potage <i>pur&eacute;e &agrave; la fran&ccedil;aise</i> is the
+same as that &agrave; la reine, with the addition of <i>quenelles</i> of chicken.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same &agrave; la Princesse.</i>&mdash;Add to that <i>&agrave; la reine</i>, the white flesh of
+a roasted chicken, cut in dice, and put in the soup-dish.</p>
+
+<p>Pur&eacute;e of Game.&mdash;Proceed as for potage <i>pur&eacute;e &agrave; la reine</i>, with the
+exception that you use prairie-hen, instead of chicken.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SOUPS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Maigre, or Vegetable Soup.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for <i>julienne</i> in every
+particular, except that water is used instead of broth. Four ounces of
+butter may be used instead or two.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span>
+<p><i>Beef and Mutton Soup.</i>&mdash;Take three pounds of beef and two pounds of
+breast of mutton; put both pieces in a crockery kettle with four quarts
+of cold water, salt, and pepper, set on a slow fire; skim carefully,
+then add half a carrot, two turnips, two onions with one clove stuck in
+each, two stalks of celery, two leeks, one sprig of parsley, and one
+clove of garlic. Simmer four or five hours; dish the meat with carrots,
+turnips, and leeks around, to be served after the soup if you choose;
+strain the broth, skim the fat off, put back on the fire, give one boil;
+have <i>croutons</i> in the soup-dish, pour over them, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mock Turtle.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the
+fire, when melted, add a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when turning
+brown, add three pints of broth (either beef-broth or broth made by
+boiling a calf's head, according to taste); boil five minutes then add a
+liquor glass of brandy or rum, from one to three glasses of Madeira,
+Port, or Sherry wine, about four ounces of calf's-head (the skin only)
+cut in dice, mushrooms or truffles, or both, also cut in dice; boil five
+minutes. While it is boiling, cut two hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon
+in dice and put them in the soup-dish; turn the broth over, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Made with beef broth it is certainly richer than when made with
+calf's-head broth, the latter is gelatinous but less nourishing than the
+former.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mock Turtle with consomm&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Use <i>consomm&eacute;</i> instead of broth, and you
+have as rich a soup as can be made.</p>
+
+<p>Mock turtle is an English soup, very rich and very good.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Chasseur (Hunter's or Sportsman's Soup).</i>&mdash;A potage <i>au chasseur</i> is
+always made with game, such as rabbit, prairie-hen, grouse, venison,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span>
+wild turkey, wild pigeon, etc., but never with aquatic birds. It might
+be made with quail, but that bird is really too delicate to make soup
+with. A whole bird or animal is never used, but the bones and trimmings
+only. After having cut off the fleshy parts, the bones are cracked and
+used to make the potage.</p>
+
+<p>Take the bones of two prairie-hens after having cut off the flesh on
+both sides of the breast-bone, also the legs; cut the bones in pieces
+about half an inch long and set them on the fire with half an ounce of
+butter, stir for two or three minutes, cover with broth, or game broth,
+and boil gently till well cooked, or about two hours.</p>
+
+<p>Put in another pan, and set it on the fire at the same time as the
+above, half a head of cabbage, one carrot, one turnip, and one onion,
+all cut fine; about half a pound of lean salt pork; cover with cold
+water, and boil gently for about two hours also.</p>
+
+<p>In case the water or broth should boil away, add a little more.</p>
+
+<p>After having boiled both vegetables and bones about two hours, take off
+the salt pork from the pan in which the vegetables are, and turn what
+you have in the other pan over the vegetables, through a strainer; add
+some broth if it is too thick; boil ten minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Proceed as above with the bones and trimmings of other birds.</p>
+
+<p><i>Turtle or Terrapin.</i>&mdash;Cut the turtle in dice, throw it in boiling water
+for two or three minutes, and drain; put it in a stewpan with onions and
+ham, also cut in dice; season with thyme, parsley, bay-leaf, salt,
+pepper, and a wine-glass of Madeira wine or of good brandy; wet with
+<i>Espagnole</i> sauce or with <i>consomm&eacute;</i>, set on a good fire, boil about
+half an hour. Ten minutes before taking from the fire, chop the eggs of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span>
+the turtle, after having boiled them, and put them in a stewpan; if the
+turtle has none, chop and use hard-boiled eggs instead. When done, throw
+away parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, turn into bowls, add a little chopped
+chervil, and a quarter of a rind of lemon, also chopped; the latter is
+enough for six persons. Serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>It may be strained before putting it in bowls, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p>Turtle-steaks are prepared like beef-steaks.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Rice and Milk.</i>&mdash;Wash half a pound of rice in cold water. Set it
+on the fire with about one pint of milk, boil gently till done, filling
+with more milk, so as to keep the rice always covered. When cooked, add
+a little butter, milk according to taste, sugar or salt, or both, and
+serve. It will not take more than two quarts of milk.</p>
+
+<p>The French name for the above is <i>riz au lait</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Okra.</i>&mdash;Okra or gumbo is little known here; yet it is good in
+pickles, used like cucumbers. It is much used for soup in the Southern
+States and in the West Indies.</p>
+
+<p>When green and tender, cut it very fine, cook it in broth, add a few
+tomatoes or tomato-sauce, according to taste; season with salt, pepper,
+and a pinch of sugar. When the tomatoes are cooked, serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>If dry, make a potage like that of tapioca, to which you add a little
+tomato-sauce and pepper.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Onions.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and when melted
+add a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when turning rather yellow add
+also four or five onions sliced, stir till fried, when you add broth to
+taste (about one quart); boil gently about fifteen minutes; mash through
+a colander, put back on the fire; give one boil, salt and pepper to
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span>
+taste; turn into the soup-dish, in which you have some <i>croutons</i>, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p>More or less onions may be used, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ox-Tail.</i>&mdash;Chop the ox-tail in pieces about one inch long, set them on
+the fire, with about one ounce of butter, stir till it turns rather
+brown, and turn the fat off. Then add broth to taste, boil slowly till
+the pieces of tail are well done; add salt, pepper, and when handy add
+also three or four tomatoes whole; boil gently about fifteen minutes
+longer, turn into the soup-dish, and serve meat and all.</p>
+
+<p>Some add wine and liquor, the same as to the mock-turtle soup, but this
+is according to taste. The soup is excellent served without wine or
+liquor.</p>
+
+<p>When no tomatoes are used, it is not necessary to boil fifteen minutes
+longer, serve as soon as done.</p>
+
+<p><i>Simple.</i>&mdash;Use water instead of broth; season with carrot, turnip,
+parsley, leek, onions, cloves, salt, and pepper. Serve as the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ox-cheek.</i>&mdash;An ox-cheek soup is made the same as an ox-tail soup. The
+broth is made with ox-cheek instead of with other parts of the beef, and
+the potage or soup made with the broth. A little wine&mdash;Madeira, Port, or
+Sherry&mdash;is sometimes added, as for mock-turtle.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sheep's-tail.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for ox-tail in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sheep's-neck.</i>&mdash;Made the same as ox-cheek soup.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sorrel.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, set it on the fire,
+and as soon as melted, put a good handful of sorrel in, stir for about
+one minute; then add a pint and a half of water, salt; boil two or three
+minutes; add again a little butter, give one boil and turn into the
+soup-dish in which you have <i>croutons</i>.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as taken from the fire, two, three, or four yolks of eggs,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>
+beaten with a tablespoonful of water, may be added.</p>
+
+<p>Broth may be used instead of water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oyster.</i>&mdash;Put one quart of oysters with their liquor in a saucepan,
+with one pint of cold water, and set it on a good fire. Take from the
+fire at the first boil, and skim off the scum. Take the oysters from the
+pan with a skimmer and put them in the soup-dish. By keeping the
+soup-dish in a warm but not hot place, the oysters will not harden. Add
+to the juice in the saucepan a gill of white wine; give one boil, and
+take from the fire. Mix two ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of
+flour in a bowl; turn the juice and wine into the bowl also, and mix the
+whole well; put the mixture back in the saucepan, and set it on the
+fire, adding about half a dozen mushrooms, two or three stalks of
+parsley, and pepper to taste. Boil two minutes, turn over the oysters
+through a strainer, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>The mushrooms may also be turned into the soup-dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cabbage.</i>&mdash;Put in a kettle with two quarts and a half of water a pound
+of salted pork, same of breast of mutton; also, if handy, the remains of
+a roasted piece; set on a slow fire; skim before it boils, and then boil
+for about an hour and a half; strain, to remove the small bones, if any;
+put back in the kettle broth and meat, also one middling-sized cabbage,
+which you must have previously thrown in boiling water and boiled ten
+minutes; add then two carrots, one turnip, two leeks, half a head of
+celery, one onion with a clove stuck in it, a little salt and pepper,
+and about half a pound of sausage (not smoked); then boil gently about
+two hours, strain the broth, pour it on <i>croutons</i> in the soup-dish, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p>The pork, mutton, and sausage, with the cabbage around, may be served
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>
+on a dish after the soup at a family dinner, or kept for breakfast the
+next day.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cauliflower.</i>&mdash;Clean and cut in small pieces three middling-sized
+cauliflowers. Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter, and set it on a
+moderate fire; when hot put the cauliflowers in; stir now and then till
+it turns brown, then add a sprig of thyme, same of parsley, a bay-leaf,
+one onion with a clove stuck in it, salt, and white pepper; simmer
+gently till the whole is well cooked, throw away the onion, clove,
+thyme, and bay-leaf; mash well the cauliflowers, strain and put back on
+the fire with the broth; give one boil, pour on <i>croutons</i>, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cheese.</i>&mdash;Put four ounces of butter in a soup-kettle, with an onion
+chopped fine; set on a brisk fire, stir now and then till it has a
+yellow color, then sprinkle on it half a tablespoonful of flour, keep
+stirring till it turns brown; then add two quarts of water, salt, and
+pepper; boil about five minutes. Have prepared in the soup-dish the
+following: a thin layer of grated cheese, Gruy&egrave;re or pine-apple cheese;
+on it a layer of thin slices of bread, then another of cheese, again
+another of bread, etc., three or four of each; strain, and pour the
+liquor in the kettle on the whole; keep in a warm place five minutes,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Milk.</i>&mdash;Put a quart of milk in a tin saucepan and set it on the fire;
+when it begins to rise, sweeten it to taste; give one boil, pour on
+toasted bread, or on <i>croutons</i>, or on two ounces of boiled rice, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p>Yolks of eggs may be stirred in, just before turning the milk into the
+soup-dish, and when taken from the fire.</p>
+
+<p><i>Maigre</i> (called <i>Soup aux Herbes</i>, <i>Herb-Broth</i>, etc.).&mdash;Wash, drain,
+and chop fine a handful of sorrel, a dozen sprigs of chervil, and half a
+head of lettuce; put an ounce of butter in a stewpan, set it on a good
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span>
+fire; when melted, put the sorrel, chervil, and lettuce in, add salt
+and pepper, stir till the whole is cooked; then cover with lukewarm
+water; boil three minutes, beat well three yolks of eggs with a
+tablespoonful of water, take from the fire and put the eggs in while
+stirring; pour immediately on <i>croutons</i>, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Leeks.</i>&mdash;Clean six leeks; cut them in pieces about half an inch
+long, then fry them with a little butter till turning rather yellow; add
+then about a pint and a half of water, boil gently till the leeks are
+perfectly cooked, salt to taste, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>This broth may be taken warm or cold.</p>
+
+<p>It is a demulcent, and at the same time the most refreshing drink that
+can be taken.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Clams.</i>&mdash;Wash and clean the clams well. Then put them in a
+saucepan with half a pint of water (say one quart of clams), set on the
+fire, and at the first boil, take off and drain. Put the pan back on the
+fire with two ounces of butter in it; when melted, fry a chopped onion
+in the butter, add then the liquor drained, a pint of water, salt,
+pepper, parsley chopped fine, and the clams; boil two minutes, add also
+a little butter, and when melted and mixed, turn over some <i>croutons</i> in
+the soup-dish, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Muscles.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for clams in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Allemande, or German Soup.</i>&mdash;Soak four ounces of pearl-barley in tepid
+water for eight or ten hours, and strain. Put it in a saucepan with one
+quart of broth, a piece of leek, one of celery, and boil gently about
+one hour and a half. While it is boiling, mix well together in a bowl
+one tablespoonful of flour and half a gill of broth, which turn into the
+saucepan, also grated nutmeg and sugar to taste; boil ten minutes
+longer, and serve.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span>
+<p><i>Another, called &agrave; la Maria Theresa.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above, except
+that you mix in a bowl six yolks of eggs with half a gill of broth, and
+no flour; and finish as in the preceding.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Instead of using pearl-barley, use flour that you have
+dried in a bakepan till it turns yellow.</p>
+
+<p><i>Indian, or Curry.</i>&mdash;Put in a saucepan one ounce of butter and set it on
+the fire; when melted, fry in it two large onions, one carrot, and half
+a turnip, all sliced; also one leek, a stalk of celery, and four of
+parsley, all cut fine. When the whole is fried, cover with about one
+quart of broth, season with two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful
+of cayenne pepper, same of pimento, two stalks of thyme; boil gently
+about one hour and a quarter, and drain. Put the liquor back in the
+saucepan and add four ounces of boiled rice, a little saffron to color,
+simmer about fifteen minutes longer, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>This soup is good and healthy for southern countries, but is too highly
+spiced for this climate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Polish, or Barscz.</i>&mdash;Peel and clean fifteen or twenty red beets, split
+them in two or four lengthwise, and put them in an earthen vessel with a
+pail of water and about a pound of rye bread; cover the vessel as
+air-tight as possible, and set it in a warm place (about 80 degrees
+Fahr.) for about eight days. After that time the liquor is rather sour,
+then drain.</p>
+
+<p>Put in a saucepan four pounds of lean beef, one pound of smoked pork,
+half a pound of ham, four onions, two leeks, and about four quarts of
+the liquor made as above. Simmer till the whole is done; skim off the
+scum that may gather on the surface, and then strain.</p>
+
+<p>Roast till half done, three chickens, or one chicken and one rabbit, or
+one chicken and one duck; put them on the fire in a saucepan with the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span>
+liquor strained from the beef, pork, etc., as described above. Boil
+gently about half an hour, strain the liquor again. Then cut the beef,
+smoked pork, and ham, in small dice, put the whole in the soup-dish,
+with the strained liquor, and serve warm, as soup.</p>
+
+<p>The chicken, or chicken and rabbit, or chicken and duck, are generally
+served separately, with some of the beets used to make the liquor, and
+with the addition of mushrooms, parsley, celery, onions, and sausages,
+raw or cooked, according to taste; and salt, pepper, and spices,
+according to taste also.</p>
+
+<p>The poorer classes make this soup with water instead of beet-juice, and
+very often with mutton instead of beef; but proceed as described above
+in every other particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Russian, or Uka.</i>&mdash;The <i>uka</i> is made in Russia with sterlets. It may be
+made here with the sturgeon of the lakes, or with salmon or trout.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the fish in pieces about two inches long, and put them in salt water
+for one hour, and drain. Cut in small pieces two roots of parsley and
+two of celery, throw them into boiling water five minutes and drain
+them. Then fry them with a little butter till they turn yellow, when add
+a gill of broth, and boil gently till it becomes rather thick. Put the
+pieces of fish in also, add salt and pepper, to taste, cover the whole
+with fish-broth, boil gently till the fish is cooked, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>Some <i>caviare</i> may be added just before serving.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another, or Tstchy.</i>&mdash;Put four pounds of beef in a soup-kettle (the
+poorer classes always use mutton), with a chicken or a duck, half a
+pound of smoked pork, same of smoked sausages, four carrots, four
+cloves, twelve pepper-corns, salt, two leeks, two onions, four stalks of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>
+parsley, and one of celery; cover the whole with fish-broth, and set on
+a good fire. Skim off the scum carefully, and boil gently till the whole
+is done. As soon as either the chicken or duck, etc., is done, take it
+from the kettle. When the whole is cooked, drain.</p>
+
+<p>Put the liquor back in the kettle with a middling-sized head of cabbage
+cut in four, or about the same quantity of sour-krout, slices of carrots
+and onions, pearl-barley, <i>semoule</i>, or gruel; simmer about three hours,
+and it is done.</p>
+
+<p>It is served in two ways: first, all the meat and vegetables are cut in
+small pieces and served with the broth as soup; second, the broth is
+served with the vegetables cut up, and the meat is served after and
+separately, as a <i>relev&eacute;</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing is thrown away but the pepper-corns and cloves.</p>
+
+<p><i>Spanish, or Olla Podrida.</i>&mdash;Put four ounces of lean and fat salt pork
+into a saucepan and set it on a good fire; when partly fried, add half a
+pound of beef, same of mutton, same of veal (occasionally a chicken or
+partridge is added also), and four ounces of ham. Just cover the whole
+with cold water, and skim carefully as soon as the scum comes on the
+surface. When skimmed, add a gill of dry peas, previously soaked in
+water for an hour, half a small head of cabbage, pimento to taste, one
+carrot, one turnip, two leeks, three or four stalks of celery, same of
+parsley, two of thyme, two cloves, two onions, two cloves of garlic, ten
+pepper-corns, and some mace; fill up with water so that the whole is
+just covered, and simmer for about five hours.</p>
+
+<p>In case the water should simmer away too much, add a little more.</p>
+
+<p>When done, dish the pork, beef, mutton, veal, ham, and chicken. Put the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span>
+peas, cabbage, carrots, turnips, leeks, celery, and onions on another
+dish.</p>
+
+<p>Strain the liquor, pour it on <i>croutons</i> in the soup-dish, and serve the
+three dishes at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>The Spanish peasantry and the lower classes in cities, serve the whole
+in the same dish, and generally omit the beef and veal. The better class
+serve the soup first, and then the meat and vegetables afterward.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Chop very fine two onions, one cucumber peeled and seeded, a
+little pimento, two cloves of garlic, four sprigs of parsley, same of
+chervil, and mix the whole in a bowl with the juice of four tomatoes,
+and to which add two or three tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs. Then
+season with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard, and water to taste, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p>The Spanish call it a cool and refreshing soup.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="SAUCES" id="SAUCES"></a>SAUCES.</h2>
+
+
+<p>There is no good cooking possible without good sauces. Many excellent
+pieces of meat, etc., are spoiled by being served with a poor sauce.</p>
+
+<p>Let every one bear in mind that water is no substitute for broth; that
+vinegar or water is no substitute for wine, etc.</p>
+
+<p>There is no place where the old proverb can be better applied than in
+the kitchen, "Waste not, spare not."</p>
+
+<p>The <i>French</i>, <i>Italians</i>, <i>Spaniards</i>, and <i>Germans</i>, use broth and wine
+in their cooking, and do not spend as much as the <i>Americans</i> for their
+food; they could not afford it; but they waste not, neither do they lose
+any thing good through carelessness or prejudice.</p>
+
+<p>Good sauces are not as difficult to make as is generally believed.</p>
+
+<p>This general belief comes from the fact that many, after having partaken
+of a certain dish somewhere, and liking it much, ask of their own cook
+to prepare the same.</p>
+
+<p>The cook, most probably, has never heard of it, but nevertheless
+prepares a dish which is hardly eatable, and is to the other what a
+crab-apple is to a raspberry.</p>
+
+<p>The most important thing in making a sauce is for the cook to put his or
+her whole attention and care to it.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>
+<p>Most sauces must be stirred continually while on the fire, and
+especially white sauces, such as <i>B&eacute;chamel</i>, <i>B&eacute;chamel</i> with cream or
+cream sauce, and white sauce.</p>
+
+<p>It is necessary to stir all sauces now and then, to prevent the forming
+of a kind of skin on the surface.</p>
+
+<p>The onions, shallots, garlics, and vinegar, used in sharp sauces, may be
+prepared as described for <i>piquante</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p>Sauces can always be made to suit the taste. A thousand can be made as
+well as a hundred, by merely adding or subtracting one or more of the
+compounds, or by proceeding differently. An idea of what can be done in
+that line can be formed by reading our directions for <span class="smcap">Supreme Sauce</span>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>HOW TO MAKE A SAUCE THICKER WHEN IT IS TOO THIN, AND THINNER WHEN TOO
+THICK.</h4>
+
+<p>Take two fresh eggs, break them gently, and separate the white part from
+the yolk; be careful to have the yolk free from any white (there is in
+every yolk a little white spot, which you cannot detach without using a
+fork, knife, or spoon); mix well the two yolks with two or three
+tablespoonfuls of the sauce that is too thin, and a piece of butter the
+size of a pigeon's egg; then take the sauce from the fire, pour the
+mixture in it, little by little, stirring all the time; when the whole
+is in, put back on the fire for three or four minutes, but do not allow
+it to boil; take away and use. When too thick, add broth.</p>
+
+<p><i>Allemande.</i>&mdash;Chop fine and fry in butter four or five mushrooms; then
+add a little flour, and four or five tablespoonfuls of broth; reduce it
+to a sauce; put a piece of butter the size of an egg in it, also a sprig
+of white parsley chopped fine, one of thyme, a clove, a bay-leaf, a
+clove of garlic, a little nutmeg grated fine, the juice of a quarter of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>
+a lemon, and three well-beaten yolks of eggs, boil two or three minutes,
+and use. If found too thick, add a little broth.</p>
+
+<p><i>Anchovy Butter.</i>&mdash;Strain essence of anchovy through a fine sieve, and
+knead it with fresh butter, or salt butter that you have kneaded in cold
+water previously, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Anchovy Sauce.</i>&mdash;Use butter without salt; if salty, work it in cold
+water. Set three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and melt it
+slowly; then add about two teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovy; stir a
+few seconds, and it is done. More anchovy may be used if liked. It is
+served in a boat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apple.</i>&mdash;Peel, quarter, and core four or six apples, and set them on
+the fire in a small saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir now
+and then till done; when done, mash through a fine colander; add a
+little sugar, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>If found too thin, keep on the fire for some time. If too thick, add a
+little water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cranberry.</i>&mdash;Put a quart of cranberries in a saucepan and set it on a
+rather slow fire; stir occasionally till done; mash gently through a
+fine colander, or through a strainer; add a little sugar, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Currant.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for a cranberry-sauce in every particular, except
+that it must be mashed through a strainer or through a towel.</p>
+
+<p><i>Peach.</i>&mdash;Stone about a quart of peaches, and proceed as for apple-sauce
+for the rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>Raspberry.</i>&mdash;Made the same as currant-sauce.</p>
+
+<p>The five sauces above are served with roasted game.</p>
+
+<p><i>B&eacute;chamel.</i>&mdash;Mix cold, and well together, in a tin saucepan, two ounces
+of butter and a tablespoonful of flour; then add a pint of milk, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>
+set on the fire; stir continually, and when turning rather thick, take
+off; beat a yolk of egg in a cup with a teaspoonful of water; turn it
+into the sauce, and mix well again; salt and white pepper to taste, and
+it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Blonde.</i>&mdash;Proceed exactly as for white sauce, using broth instead of
+water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bread.</i>&mdash;Take the soft part of half a ten-cent loaf of bread; break it
+in pieces, which put in a saucepan with a quart of good fresh milk, six
+pepper-corns chopped fine, and a little salt; set on the fire and boil
+five or six minutes, stirring the while; take off, mash through a
+strainer or a sieve, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>A bread-sauce is really a very poor sauce. Its insipidity is concealed
+by the great amount of pepper that it contains.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brown Butter, or Beurre Noir.</i>&mdash;This is butter set on the fire in a
+frying-pan and left till it turns perfectly brown, then a few sprigs of
+parsley are dropped in it, fried half a minute, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>It is sometimes used with vinegar, but in that case it is described in
+the receipts.</p>
+
+<p><i>Caper.</i>&mdash;Mix well together, cold, in a small saucepan, two ounces of
+butter and a tablespoonful of flour; then add a pint of broth, set on
+the fire, stir, and when thickening, add capers to taste, whole or
+chopped; give another boil, take from the fire, add salt, the yolk of an
+egg beaten with a teaspoonful of water, mix and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Celery.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for a caper-sauce in every particular except that
+you add three or four stalks of celery chopped fine, and then boil ten
+or twelve minutes, and strain it before using.</p>
+
+<p><i>Colbert.</i>&mdash;Set half a pint of meat gravy on the fire, in a small
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>
+saucepan with half a dozen mushrooms and one or two truffles chopped
+fine (the latter, if handy), boil gently five minutes, add one ounce of
+butter, stir, and when the butter is melted and mixed with the rest, it
+is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Coulis of Fish</i>, <i>or Fish Gravy</i>, is one and the same thing.</p>
+
+<p>Boil hard four eggs, and put the yolks in a mortar. Take a pike weighing
+about two pounds, clean, prepare, and broil it as directed; split it
+open, take all the bones and skin off, put the flesh in the mortar with
+the yolks, and pound the whole, and knead it with a little butter. Place
+a little butter, of the size of a walnut, in a stewpan, and set it on a
+good fire; when melted, fry in it till of a golden color, two carrots
+and two onions cut in slices; after that add also a piece of bay-leaf,
+two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a little isinglass, the eggs and
+fish, and cover with water; simmer gently about one hour and a half, and
+strain.</p>
+
+<p>If found too thin after it is strained, set it back on the fire, add a
+little more isinglass, and simmer fifteen minutes longer.</p>
+
+<p><i>Coulis of Veal.</i>&mdash;Place in a stewpan about one pound of veal, fillet or
+knuckle, with four ounces of bacon, not smoked, and cut fine; also a
+carrot cut fine, a little pepper, and grated nutmeg; set on a slow fire,
+cover well; half an hour after augment the fire, and as soon as you see
+the meat sticking to the pan, subdue it, leave it so ten minutes, then
+take from the fire, put the bacon, veal, and carrot on a dish; put
+butter about the size of an egg in the pan; when melted, sprinkle in it
+a teaspoonful of flour, stir with a wooden spoon, then put the meat back
+into it. Cover with warm broth and set on a slow fire for about two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span>
+hours; take off, throw in it a few drops of cold water, skim off the
+fat, strain, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cream.</i>&mdash;A cream-sauce is a <i>B&eacute;chamel</i> made with cream instead of milk.</p>
+
+<p>It is often called <i>&agrave; la cr&egrave;me</i>, its French name.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cucumber.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for caper-sauce, using pickled cucumbers,
+chopped fine, instead of capers.</p>
+
+<p><i>Egg.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for caper-sauce in every particular, except that you
+use two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, instead of capers.</p>
+
+<p><i>Diplomat.</i>&mdash;Make a cream-sauce with one pint of cream. When made, put
+in it nearly half a pound of lobster butter, stir, and when the whole is
+well mixed, add also about a tablespoonful of essence of anchovy and mix
+again; pepper to taste, and use.</p>
+
+<p>It is a rich sauce, used with boiled fish and baked or roasted meat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Espagnole.</i>&mdash;This sauce is very seldom made in the kitchen of a family,
+except of a large and wealthy family, being a rather expensive one. In
+the kitchen of a family, gravy or even broth is used in its stead; but,
+when preparing an extra dinner, it should be made, and a little of it
+used in all the brown sauces, either for meat, fish, or vegetables.</p>
+
+<p>Spread about half a pound of butter in the bottom of a stewpan, lay in
+it lean ham and veal, partridge, wild rabbit, pheasant, or fowl of any
+kind, about four ounces of each, a small carrot cut in dice, one onion
+with a clove stuck in it, half a turnip, and a sprig of thyme; cover the
+pan and set it on the fire; let it simmer till reduced to a jelly, then
+mix in it two tablespoonfuls of flour, a wine-glass of white wine, cover
+with broth, add salt, pepper, a clove of garlic, a sprig of parsley, one
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span>
+clove, a bay-leaf, and two mushrooms cut in pieces; simmer from three
+to four hours, skim off the scum as soon as it comes on the surface;
+when done, take it from the fire, throw a few drops of cold water in,
+and skim off the fat, then strain and use.</p>
+
+<p>It will keep for some time if kept air-tight in a pot or bottle, and in
+a cool, dry place.</p>
+
+<p><i>Essence of Spinage, or Spinach.</i>&mdash;Soak in water, drain, dry, and pound
+well two or three handfuls of spinach, put them in a coarse towel and
+press the juice out, put it in a pan on a moderate fire, and when nearly
+boiling, take it off, strain, and add to it a little fine-crushed sugar,
+stir a little, and bottle when cold; it may be kept for months; use it
+where directed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sauce for every kind of Fish, boiled, baked, or roasted</i>.&mdash;Boil hard
+two eggs, take the yolks and pound them well, and place them in a bowl.
+Have boiling water on the fire, and put in it cives, burnet, chervil,
+tarragon, and parsley, four or five sprigs of each; boil five minutes,
+take off, drain and pound them well, then strain them on the eggs, add
+two tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar, two of French mustard, salt,
+pepper, and four tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, which you pour in, little
+by little, at the same time mixing the whole well with a boxwood spoon,
+and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fines Herbes.</i>&mdash;Chop very fine a small handful of parsley, shallots,
+and chives; and proceed as for making a caper-sauce, except that you use
+the chopped spices instead of capers.</p>
+
+<p><i>G&eacute;noise.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a small saucepan, set it on the
+fire, and when melted, mix in it a tablespoonful of flour; stir for one
+minute, add one-fourth of a carrot, sliced, stir now and then, and when
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>
+nearly fried, add also a pint of broth, half a pint of claret wine, a
+small onion, and a clove of garlic, chopped; two cloves, a bay-leaf, two
+stalks of parsley, one of thyme, salt, and pepper; boil gently about one
+hour and forty minutes, and strain. If it boils away, add a little
+broth. Put it back on the fire with about half an ounce of butter, boil
+gently for about ten minutes, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>This sauce is excellent with any kind of boiled fish, but especially
+with trout, pike, and pickerel.</p>
+
+<p>A trout served with a <i>g&eacute;noise</i> sauce is considered a <i>recherch&eacute;</i> dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hollandaise.</i>&mdash;Set one ounce of butter on the fire in a saucepan, and
+when melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when turning
+rather yellow, add half a pint of broth, stir for one minute; add also
+four sprigs of parsley and four mushrooms chopped fine (one truffle
+sliced, if handy, would be excellent), a liquor-glass of Madeira, Port,
+or Sherry wine; boil gently ten minutes, stirring the while, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Indian.</i>&mdash;This sauce may be used with fish, in summer and in southern
+places.</p>
+
+<p>Have a stewpan on a moderate fire, with two ounces of butter in it; when
+melted, add a teaspoonful of pimento, salt, a pinch of saffron, and one
+of grated nutmeg, also one and a half tablespoonfuls of flour&mdash;the
+latter you sprinkle in, little by little, stirring the while; cover with
+broth, boil twelve minutes and strain; afterward add two ounces of
+butter, stir a little, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Italian.</i>&mdash;Tie together two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, and a
+bay-leaf; put them in a stewpan with two or three mushrooms cut fine,
+one shallot, a small onion with a clove stuck in it, a piece of butter
+the size of a walnut, and half a pint of white wine; set on a gentle
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>
+fire, and reduce it half; then add about one tablespoonful of olive-oil
+and half a pint of broth, simmer forty minutes, strain, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lobster.</i>&mdash;Chop very fine or pound some of the flesh of a boiled
+lobster. Take a white or blonde sauce, and instead of taking it from the
+fire when done, turn the chopped flesh into it with a little piece of
+butter; stir, give one boil, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Craw-fish, prawn, shrimp,</i> and <i>crab</i> sauces are made the same as
+<i>lobster</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Madeira.</i>&mdash;Mix cold in a saucepan two ounces of butter with a
+tablespoonful of flour, set on the fire and stir till it turns rather
+brown; when add nearly a pint of gravy, stir till it is becoming thick;
+then add half a pint of Madeira wine, little by little, stirring the
+while, give one boil only, salt to taste, and then strain and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Champagne</i> sauce is made in the same way, except that it must be poured
+in faster and used immediately.</p>
+
+<p>All wine sauces may be made in the same way. We mean wine sauces for
+meat or fish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ma&icirc;tre d'Hotel.</i>&mdash;This sauce is sometimes called <i>butter</i> <i>ma&icirc;tre
+d'hotel</i>. Mix and knead well together in a bowl, two ounces of butter, a
+tablespoonful of chopped parsley and the juice of a half lemon; salt to
+taste and use.</p>
+
+<p>Pepper, grated nutmeg, and chopped chives, may be added if liked. Using
+vinegar instead of lemon-juice makes an inferior sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mayonnaise.</i>&mdash;In warm weather it is necessary to put the bowl on ice
+while making it. Put one or two yolks of fresh eggs in a bowl with a
+small pinch of salt; commence stirring with a box-wood spoon, or, what
+is still better, a stone or marble pestle. Stir without interruption,
+always in the same way and describing a circle. It is more easily done
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>
+if the bowl is held steady. After having stirred about half a minute,
+commence pouring the oil in, drop by drop, and as soon as you see that
+it is thickening pretty well, add also a few drops of vinegar and same
+of lemon-juice; then continue with the oil in the same way. Every time
+that it becomes too thick, add a little vinegar, but continue stirring.
+You put as much oil as you please; two bottles of oil might be used and
+it would still be thick. Spread it on chicken salad, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tartar.</i>&mdash;Chop some capers and shallots very fine, mix them well with a
+<i>mayonnaise</i> when made, and you have a Tartar sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mushroom.</i>&mdash;Proceed exactly as for caper-sauce, using chopped mushrooms
+instead of capers.</p>
+
+<p><i>Piquante.</i>&mdash;Take a small saucepan and set it on the fire with two
+ounces of butter in it, and when melted add a small onion chopped; stir,
+and when nearly fried add a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when
+turning rather brown, add half a pint of broth, salt, pepper, a pickled
+cucumber chopped, four stalks of parsley, also chopped, and mustard;
+boil gently about ten minutes, add a teaspoonful of vinegar; give one
+boil, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Set the chopped onion on the fire with one gill of
+vinegar, and boil gently till the vinegar is entirely absorbed, or
+boiled away. Make the same sauce as above in another pan, omitting the
+onion and vinegar, and when done mix the two together, and it is ready
+for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Add three shallots, chopped fine, to the chopped onion, and
+proceed as above for the rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>Parisienne.</i>&mdash;Make a bunch of seasonings with six sprigs of parsley,
+one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and two cloves; put it in a saucepan with half
+a pint of chopped truffles, and about a pint of white wine; set on the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span>
+fire and boil gently till about half reduced, strain, put back on the
+fire, turn into it, little by little, stirring the while, nearly a pint
+of gravy or <i>consomm&eacute;</i>; continue stirring now and then till it begins to
+turn rather thick, add pepper to taste, strain, and use with fish and
+game.</p>
+
+<p><i>Poivrade.</i>&mdash;Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan, and
+set it on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in it, little by little, about
+a tablespoonful of flour, stirring the while; when of a proper
+thickness, and of a brownish color, take from the fire, add a
+tablespoonful of vinegar, a wine-glass of claret wine, a glass of broth,
+a shallot cut in two, a middling-sized onion, also cut in two, with a
+clove stuck in each piece, a sprig of thyme, one of parsley, a bay-leaf,
+a clove of garlic, a little salt, and two pepper-corns; boil about
+twenty minutes, strain and use.</p>
+
+<p>The vinegar, shallot, and onion may be boiled separately as for a
+<i>piquante</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Polonaise.</i>&mdash;Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
+when melted add two or three tablespoonfuls of the soft part of bread,
+bruised in a coarse towel; stir for about one minute, salt to taste, and
+use.</p>
+
+<p>Like the <i>Parisienne</i>, it is used with game.</p>
+
+<p><i>Poulette.</i>&mdash;Set a stewpan on the fire with a piece of butter the size
+of an egg in it; when melted, sprinkle in it a tablespoonful of flour,
+stirring the while; pour gently in it also, and little by little, a
+glass of warm water, and a wine-glass of white wine, or broth instead of
+both, salt, pepper, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a
+chopped shallot, a little nutmeg, four small white onions, and two or
+three mushrooms (the latter cut fine and fried in butter before using
+them); simmer till the whole is well cooked, strain and use.</p>
+
+<p>In case it should be found too light, add when done, and before taking
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span>
+from the fire, two or three yolks of eggs, and the juice of a lemon.</p>
+
+<p><i>Princesse.</i>&mdash;Make a cream-sauce with one pint of cream and set it on a
+moderate fire; immediately turn into it, stirring the while, about half
+a pint of reduced, good meat gravy; when thoroughly mixed, add two or
+three ounces of butter, stir for a couple of minutes longer, strain and
+use immediately.</p>
+
+<p>It is a very rich sauce, used with boiled fish and roasted or baked
+meat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Proven&ccedil;ale.</i>&mdash;Chop fine two or three mushrooms, and two shallots; put
+the whole in a stewpan with a clove of garlic, and two tablespoonfuls of
+olive-oil; set on a moderate fire, and leave till half fried; then
+sprinkle in it half a teaspoonful of flour, stirring the while; add also
+half a pint of white wine, and as much broth, and two small onions, two
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, half a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper;
+simmer about half an hour, take from the fire, and a few minutes after
+skim off the fat; take out the garlic, onions, parsley, thyme, and
+bay-leaf, and it is then ready for immediate use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ravigote.</i>&mdash;Chop fine, and in equal proportion, two tablespoonfuls of
+chervil, tarragon, and pepper-grass, also, in equal proportion, one
+teaspoonful of burnet and table celery; place the whole in a stewpan
+with salt and pepper, cover with broth, set on the fire, and boil twenty
+minutes; after which take from the fire, and strain. Mix two ounces of
+butter with flour enough to make a paste, put it with the sauce on the
+fire, add a tablespoonful of cider vinegar; simmer till of a proper
+thickness, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Robert.</i>&mdash;Put about four ounces of butter in a stewpan, set it on a
+moderate fire; when melted, sprinkle in it about a tablespoonful of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>
+flour, stirring the while; when of a brownish color, add three small
+onions chopped fine, salt, and pepper; stir, and leave on the fire till
+the whole is turning brown, then add a glass of broth, boil about thirty
+minutes, and strain; mix well in a cup one teaspoonful of vinegar, one
+of sugar, and one of mustard, which mix again with the sauce, and it is
+ready to be used.</p>
+
+<p><i>R&eacute;molade.</i>&mdash;Chop very fine a small handful of chervil, tarragon, and
+burnet, in equal proportion, and put them in a saucer or boat; add salt,
+pepper, nutmeg grated, and mustard, to taste; also one or two
+hard-boiled eggs cut in dice; mix the whole gently and well; then add
+the vinegar, and lastly the oil. The two latter ones are put in little
+by little, stirring gently the while. Serve as it is.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above, except that you chop fine with the
+chervil, etc., some parsley, shallot, and garlic; the five spices in
+equal proportion.</p>
+
+<p>When finished, add also a pinch of sugar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roux.</i>&mdash;Set a small saucepan on a moderate fire, with two ounces of
+butter in it; sprinkle into it, when melted, a tablespoonful of flour;
+stir, and when turning brown, use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Shallot.</i>&mdash;Chop the shallots, and proceed as for caper-sauce, using
+them instead of capers.</p>
+
+<p><i>Soubise.</i>&mdash;Put about half a pint of good meat gravy in a saucepan; set
+it on the fire, and when boiling add half a gill of Madeira wine; when
+well mixed, add also two or three tablespoonfuls of <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of white
+onions, salt, and pepper; boil five minutes, stirring now and then, and
+it is made.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>soubise</i> is an excellent sauce for baked or boiled fish, also for
+roasted meat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Supreme.</i>&mdash;This sauce is made in several ways. We will give here the
+three principal ones:</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span>
+<p>1. Make an <i>Allemande</i> sauce; and when done, add to it two ounces of
+butter and half a gill of <i>consomm&eacute;</i>; stir and mix, and place on a brisk
+fire to start it boiling at once; take it from the fire as soon as it
+becomes thick; then add a few drops of lemon-juice, and use.</p>
+
+<p>2. Make a <i>roux</i>; add to it about half a pint of chicken gravy; stir or
+boil five or six minutes; then add two ounces of butter, the juice of a
+lemon, a pinch of parsley chopped fine; give one boil, and use.</p>
+
+<p>3. This is made like No. 2, except that you use an <i>Allemande</i> sauce
+instead of a <i>roux</i>, and besides the pint of chicken gravy, etc., you
+add also half a gill of white wine.</p>
+
+<p>It is used especially with roasted chicken and game.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tomato.</i>&mdash;If you use fresh tomatoes, blanch them first; if preserved,
+use them as they are in the can. Put one pint of tomatoes in a saucepan
+with a small onion and a clove of garlic sliced; also two stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, one clove, six pepper-corns, and
+salt; boil gently till reduced about one-third, when mash gently through
+a strainer or sieve; all the tomato-seed and seasonings must remain in
+the strainer; put back on the fire, with a little piece of butter; give
+one boil, and it is done.</p>
+
+<p><i>Truffle.</i>&mdash;This sauce is made like a caper-sauce, using chopped or
+sliced truffles instead of capers.</p>
+
+<p><i>Velout&eacute;.</i>&mdash;This and gravy is nearly the same thing. It is gravy made as
+directed for gravy, with the addition of a dozen mushrooms chopped fine;
+and is used for sauces, like gravy, to make sauces richer than with
+broth.</p>
+
+<p><i>Vinaigrette.</i>&mdash;Put salt and pepper in a saucer (and mustard, if it is
+to be used with butcher's meat; but with fish, chicken, or birds, it is
+really too strong; it neutralizes the delicate flavor of the object),
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span>
+and pour vinegar over, little by little, beating with a fork at the
+same time; then pour the oil, also little by little, and while beating;
+a little chopped parsley is also added; and serve with cold meat, fish,
+or vegetables.</p>
+
+<p>It is quickly made, is good, and makes an excellent dish for breakfast,
+served as we said above.</p>
+
+<p><i>White.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a small saucepan and set it on the
+fire, stir a little, and as soon as melted, remove on a rather slow
+fire; add a tablespoonful of flour, stir continually till thoroughly
+mixed (two or three minutes); then add again about a pint of boiling
+water, pouring gently, and stirring the while, take off when it begins
+to turn thick; add a yolk of egg beaten with a teaspoonful of cold
+water, mix it well with the rest, and it is ready for use; after having
+mixed, also salt and white pepper to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oyster.</i>&mdash;Add to a white sauce some oysters blanched; then stir and mix
+with the whole the juice of half a lemon.</p>
+
+<p><i>Muscle.</i>&mdash;Boil the muscles about one minute and make as oyster-sauce.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Milk.</i>&mdash;Put in a block-tin saucepan four tablespoonfuls of sugar, one
+of flour, four yolks of eggs, one pint of milk; essence to flavor, and
+mix the whole well; set on a good but not sharp fire, stir continually
+till it begins to become rather thick; take off, turn over the pudding,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Madeira.</i>&mdash;Set a saucepan on the fire with one ounce of butter in it;
+as soon as melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir till it turns
+rather yellow, and add also one pint of water, four ounces of sugar, and
+a few drops of burnt sugar; boil gently, about twenty-five minutes; add
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>
+nearly a gill of Madeira wine, boil again ten minutes, and serve in a
+boat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rum.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for Madeira-sauce, except you use half a gill of rum
+instead of Madeira.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brandy.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for rum-sauce, using the same proportion of
+brandy.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="FARCES" id="FARCES"></a>FARCES AND GARNITURES,</h2>
+
+<h4>CALLED ALSO GARNISH AND GARNISHING, USED TO DECORATE OR ORNAMENT DISHES.</h4>
+
+
+<p><i>With Bread.</i>&mdash;Put in a tureen about a pound of the soft part of bread,
+and cover with broth; when it has absorbed the broth, place it in a
+stewpan, set it on a slow fire, and leave till it becomes a thick paste;
+stir now and then, then mix well with it three yolks of eggs, and it is
+ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cabbage.</i>&mdash;Throw into boiling water a little salt and a
+middling-sized cabbage; boil it half an hour, take it from the kettle
+with a skimmer, throw it in cold water, and drain it, pressing it a
+little in the drainer to force the water out; cut off the stump, and
+chop the cabbage fine. Have in a stewpan on the fire, three or four
+ounces of fresh butter; put the cabbage in when the butter is half
+melted, sprinkling on while stirring a teaspoonful of flour; pour on it,
+little by little, some broth, stirring the while, and when it has a fine
+brownish color, wet with broth enough to boil it; season with salt, a
+little grated nutmeg, and four pepper-corns; boil gently till the sauce
+is thick enough, take away the pepper-corns, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Combs of Chicken.</i>&mdash;Soak the combs over night in cold water, and
+then clean them well by wiping roughly with a coarse towel, wetted and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span>
+salted; wash and drain them; put a dozen of them in a saucepan with two
+sweetbreads blanched, cover the whole with broth, and boil till done;
+then add salt, pepper, a few drops of lemon-juice, and it is ready for
+use.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cauliflowers.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for cabbage in every particular, except
+that it does not require as long doing.</p>
+
+<p>With <i>Croutons.</i>&mdash;Cut pieces of soft part of stale bread in different
+shapes, and fry them on both sides in butter or fat.</p>
+
+<p>For potage, they are cut in dice, but for decorating dishes, they are
+cut either round, square, oblong, or of a heart, star-like, half moon,
+butterfly, or flower shape, and about one-quarter of an inch thick. Take
+them off with a skimmer, and turn into a colander to drain.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0114.jpg" width="247" height="183" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The cut <i>d</i> is used for potage, and <i>a</i>, <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, etc., are used to
+decorate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Duxelle.</i>&mdash;Make a <i>fines-herbes</i> sauce, and when ready to be used, add
+half a gill of gravy, and give one boil; add also two or three yolks of
+eggs, simmer one minute, and use warm.</p>
+
+<p>Mushrooms, whole or in slices, may be added at the same time the yolks
+of eggs are added.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Eggs.</i>&mdash;Mash and mix well together six hard-boiled yolks of eggs
+with three yolks not cooked, salt and pepper. Put the mixture in parts
+on the paste-board, which must be previously dusted with flour; roll
+each part and give it the shape of a small egg (a pigeon's egg or a
+little larger). When the whole is thus prepared, drop in boiling water,
+boil till cooked, and use to decorate meat or fish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Financi&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;A garniture <i>financi&egrave;re</i> is the same as a garniture with
+combs of chicken, to which are added some mushrooms and truffles, both
+cut in slices.</p>
+
+<p>It is generally served with a roast chicken.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Livers.</i>&mdash;Geese livers are the best, being the fattest. Drop two
+geese livers in boiling water and a little salt, boil three minutes and
+drain. Put in a saucepan one gill of broth, same of white wine, Sauterne
+or Catawba, a tablespoonful of gravy, six pepper-corns, two or three
+stalks of parsley, salt, and the livers; set on the fire and boil gently
+for about twenty-five minutes. Take off the livers, boil a few minutes
+longer to thicken the sauce, turn it over the livers through a strainer,
+and it is ready.</p>
+
+<p>The same may be done with the livers of poultry or any other kind of
+birds; the seasonings are the same, and the proportion is according to
+the size or to the number of livers.</p>
+
+<p>Besides being used as garnishing, it may be served as a breakfast dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mac&eacute;doine.</i>&mdash;Blanch a dozen of Brussels cabbages. Blanch also half a
+dozen asparagus cut in pieces about an inch long. Put four ounces of
+butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when melted put it into a gill of
+carrots, same of turnips, both cut with a vegetable spoon, also a dozen
+small onions; stir now and then till the whole is about half done, when
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>
+add a little over a pint of broth and the Brussels cabbages; boil about
+ten minutes. Then add again the blanched asparagus, half a dozen
+mushrooms, broth just enough to cover the whole, simmer till every thing
+is done, salt and pepper to taste, a pinch of sugar and it is ready for
+use.</p>
+
+<p>Water may be used instead of broth, but is inferior.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>mac&eacute;doine</i> may be served with any meat&mdash;roasted, baked, or broiled.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Chop fine half a pint of fresh mushrooms and two
+tablespoonfuls of parsley. Set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of
+fat grated salt pork in it, as much butter, and as soon as the butter is
+melted put the mushrooms and parsley in; season with salt, pepper, a
+little grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pint of white wine; let boil
+gently till reduced to a jelly, and use.</p>
+
+<p>When done, three or four yolks of eggs may be mixed with it.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Onions.</i>&mdash;Put a dozen onions in a crockery saucepan and half cover
+them with broth. Cover the pan as well as possible, simmer till cooked,
+then add a teaspoonful of sugar, salt, simmer again for about ten
+minutes, basting now and then, and serve warm with beef, mutton, or
+venison.</p>
+
+<p><i>Quenelles.</i>&mdash;Chop fine one pound of fresh veal, half lean and half
+fat&mdash;the fat nearest the kidney is the best; then pound it well and mash
+it through a sieve. Mix two yolks of eggs with it, and season to taste
+with salt, pepper, nutmeg grated, and powdered cinnamon. Spread flour on
+the paste-board, put a teaspoonful of meat here and there; roll gently
+each part into small balls, using as little flour as possible. They may
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span>
+also be rolled of an olive shape. Throw the balls into boiling broth or
+boiling water at the first boiling, boil five minutes and drain. As soon
+as cold they are ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boulettes</i>, <i>fricadelles</i>, <i>godiveau</i>, and <i>quenelles</i> are one and the
+same thing.</p>
+
+<p>Whole eggs may be used instead of the yolks only, add also a few
+bread-crumbs. To the seasonings above some parsley chopped fine may be
+added.</p>
+
+<p>Make <i>quenelles</i> with any kind of meat&mdash;butcher's meat, poultry, and
+game, also with fish well boned.</p>
+
+<p>To the lean meat add the same weight of fat veal, as above directed, or,
+in its stead, beef suet.</p>
+
+<p>Truffles or mushrooms, or both, may be added to the mixture, either of
+meat or of fish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Quenelles</i> are used for garnitures, etc. They may be fried instead of
+boiled.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salpicon.</i>&mdash;Cut in dice an equal quantity of each, and to weigh
+altogether about one pound and a half, calf sweetbreads, livers, or
+flesh of fowls, and ham&mdash;three kinds in all; also two mushrooms and two
+truffles; all must be nearly cooked in water beforehand. Put them in a
+stewpan, season with salt, pepper, a bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, an
+onion, a sprig of parsley, and one of thyme; cover with half a pint of
+broth, and as much of white wine; set on a slow fire; it must not boil,
+but simmer gently; stir now and then till the whole is well cooked; take
+out the bay-leaf, onion, garlic, parsley, and thyme. In case the sauce
+should not be thick enough, add a little fecula, stir, and leave awhile
+longer on the fire, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Truffles.</i>&mdash;Slice the truffles and put them in a saucepan with a
+pinch of sugar, broth and claret wine enough to cover them, half of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span>
+each, simmer for about twenty minutes, add a little potato starch, boil
+gently till it begins to thicken, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lobster Butter.</i>&mdash;Put the flesh of the two large claws of a boiled
+lobster with a little of the inside, about a tablespoonful, in a mortar
+and pound well. Add about the same volume of good butter and pound again
+till the whole is well mixed. It is then mashed through a fine sieve,
+and is ready for use. When the lobster has coral, it is pounded with the
+rest, and gives a fine color to the butter.</p>
+
+<p>If the lobster has no coral, a piece of the reddest part of the shell is
+pounded with the rest, when the butter is to be colored.</p>
+
+<p>This butter may be used instead of ordinary butter for fish-sauces, or
+for making a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> for boiled fish, or for garnishing the
+same.</p>
+
+<p>To clarify it, just put the butter into a bowl when made, put the bowl
+in a boiling <i>bain-marie</i> for about half an hour, take off and
+immediately turn it through a cloth into a bowl half full of cold water.
+The cloth must be rather twisted, to cause the butter to run through.
+When it is in the bowl, stir it till rather hard; work it in a ball, and
+wipe it dry.</p>
+
+<p>Thus clarified it is finer than when used merely mixed.</p>
+
+<p>The same butter may be made, and in the same way, with <i>craw-fish</i>,
+<i>prawns</i>, and <i>shrimps</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Horse-radish Butter.</i>&mdash;Grate some horse-radish and mix it well with
+about the same volume of butter, mash through a sieve, and it is ready
+for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tarragon</i> and <i>garlic</i> butter are made as the above.</p>
+
+<p>If the butter be found too strong, use more butter and less of garlic,
+etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ravigote Butter</i> (called also <i>Beurre de Montpellier</i>).&mdash;Blanch the
+following spices: parsley, tarragon, chives, chervil&mdash;parsley and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>
+chervil in equal proportion and about half as much of the two others,
+about two handfuls altogether&mdash;drain dry and put them in a mortar with
+two anchovies boned, one shallot chopped and bruised in a coarse towel,
+half a dozen capers, a rather small piece of pickled cucumber, four
+ounces of butter, two hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and the juice of half a
+lemon. Pound the whole well together, then add a tablespoonful of
+essence of spinach, mix well, mash through a sieve, and use.</p>
+
+<p>This butter is excellent to decorate and to eat with cold fish. It is
+sometimes used with cold birds.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hazel-nut Butter.</i>&mdash;Pound some hazel-nuts or filberts and then mix
+throughly with good butter, mash through a sieve, and use as ordinary
+butter. The proportion according to taste. It is easily prepared, and is
+delicious.</p>
+
+<p>Do the same with <i>pea-nuts</i>, or any other nut.</p>
+
+<p><i>Melted Butter.</i>&mdash;Put butter in a crockery vessel and place it above a
+pan of water or some other liquid, heated but not boiling, so that the
+butter will melt slowly and gradually. Sometimes the butter may be
+wanted soft only, or what is called melted soft, or thoroughly melted.
+It is easy to obtain those different states above with heated liquor,
+and the butter, though melted, is more firm than when melted on the
+fire.</p>
+
+<p><i>Scented Butter.</i>&mdash;Whenever a certain flavor is desired with butter, put
+a piece of firm and good butter in a bowl with a few drops of essence,
+knead well, and then mash through a sieve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PUR&Eacute;ES.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Pur&eacute;es</i> are made with vegetables, but when the flesh or poultry or
+other birds is mashed through a sieve after being cooked, it is
+sometimes called a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> also.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span>
+<p>The bones of a ham, after the flesh is disposed of, is the most
+excellent thing you can put with the vegetables to boil them in order to
+make <i>pur&eacute;es</i>.</p>
+
+<p>One-third of the bones of a middling-sized ham is enough for about a
+quart of vegetables.</p>
+
+<p>When you have no ham bones, use four ounces of good salt pork, as lean
+as possible; but never use smoked pork, it gives a disagreeable taste to
+the pur&eacute;e.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Dry Beans, white or colored, Kidney, Lima, or any other kind.</i>&mdash;Dry
+beans must be soaked in cold water, or even in lukewarm water, when in a
+hurry. According to the nature of the beans, they must be soaked for
+from six to twenty-four hours.</p>
+
+<p>Soak a quart of beans as directed above; drain and put them in a
+saucepan with one-third of the bones of a ham, or about four ounces of
+salt pork; cover with cold water, season with a bay-leaf, a sprig of
+thyme, two of parsley, two middling-sized onions, with two cloves stuck
+in them, and a carrot cut in pieces; when the whole is well cooked,
+throw away thyme, bay-leaf, onions, and cloves; mash well through a
+colander all the rest except the bacon.</p>
+
+<p>While mashing them through the colander, wet them with some of the water
+in which they have boiled, else it would be difficult and long.</p>
+
+<p>When mashed, put them in a saucepan with a little broth or water, salt,
+and two ounces of butter; stir now and then till the butter is melted
+and thoroughly mixed with the rest, and it is ready for use. The
+quantity of broth or water is according to how thick or thin they are
+wanted. The salt pork is good to eat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Lentils.</i>&mdash;It is made in the same way as that of beans, except that
+they do not require to be soaked more than five or six hours in cold
+water.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span>
+<p><i>Of Peas (dry or split).</i>&mdash;Proceed as for lentils in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Chestnuts.</i>&mdash;Remove the skin of a quart of chestnuts and drop them
+in boiling water, with a little salt. As soon as the under skin comes
+off easily, take them from the fire, drain, drop them in cold water, and
+then remove the under or white skin; put them in a saucepan with about
+one quart of broth, set on the fire and boil gently till well done, and
+mash through a colander.</p>
+
+<p>Then put the chestnuts, and what is left of the broth, in a saucepan,
+set on the fire, stir, add a pinch of sugar and an ounce of butter; give
+one boil, and it is made.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Green Peas.</i>&mdash;Wash a quart of green peas in cold water, and drain;
+put two quarts of cold water on the fire in a saucepan, with a little
+salt, and at the first boil throw the peas in, season with three or four
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, two onions, and two cloves, a carrot in
+slices, salt, and pepper; boil till tender. It may take only two
+minutes, or it may require half an hour, according to how tender the
+peas are.</p>
+
+<p>Mash through a colander, and finish like pur&eacute;e of beans, using either
+broth or water. With broth it is richer and better.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Lima Beans.</i>&mdash;Proceed for green Limas as for green peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Sweet Corn.</i>&mdash;It is made like that of green peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Asparagus.</i>&mdash;Cut the eatable part of the asparagus in pieces, and
+proceed as for <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of green peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Potatoes.</i>&mdash;Steam a quart of potatoes, and then mash them well; put
+them in a saucepan with half a pint of milk, two ounces of butter, and
+salt; set on the fire, stir now and then, take off and use. It takes
+about fifteen minutes after being set back on the fire.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span>
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above, using broth or water instead of milk.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Jerusalem Artichokes.</i>&mdash;Prepared as potatoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Carrots.</i>&mdash;Clean well, and cut in slices, a dozen middling-sized
+carrots; put them in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and set on
+the fire; when about half fried, cover with broth or water; season with
+half a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, one of parsley, a small onion,
+and a clove stuck in it; when the whole is well cooked, throw away
+onion, clove, bay-leaf, and thyme, mash the rest through a colander;
+then put back on the fire, with a little butter; simmer for about two
+hours, stirring occasionally, and it is made.</p>
+
+<p>In case it should turn too thick, add broth or water.</p>
+
+<p>The longer they are simmered, the better the taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Turnips.</i>&mdash;Proceed as with carrots in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Celery.</i>&mdash;It is always made with turnip-rooted celery. Clean the
+celery well, wash and cut it in pieces, and prepare as <i>pur&eacute;e of
+carrots</i>, adding a teaspoonful of sugar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Cauliflowers.</i>&mdash;Separate the branches, and throw them in boiling
+water and salt; boil two minutes and drain. Put them on the fire with
+broth or water, enough just to cover them, two or three stalks of
+parsley, and salt to season.</p>
+
+<p>Boil gently till tender; remove the parsley; mash through a colander;
+put back on the fire with a little butter and white pepper, simmer about
+ten minutes, stirring now and then the while, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of butter, some cream may be added.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Pumpkin.</i>&mdash;Made exactly the same as that of cauliflowers, after the
+pumpkin is peeled and cut in pieces.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span>
+<p><i>Of Squash.</i>&mdash;Same as pumpkin.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Spinach.</i>&mdash;Clean the spinach, and cut off the stem; the leaf only is
+good; wash and drain it; put cold water and a little salt on the fire,
+and throw the spinach in at the first boil. When tender, drain and drop
+immediately in cold water; drain again, and then chop it very fine.
+After being chopped, it may be mashed through a sieve, to have it finer;
+put it back on the fire without any water at all, and when it gets
+rather dry, add a little flour; stir and mix; add again a little gravy
+or good broth; stir, then salt to taste, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>If the spinach is young and tender, it takes only two or three minutes
+boiling before chopping it.</p>
+
+<p>From the time it is put back on the fire, it takes about five or six
+minutes to finish it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Sorrel.</i>&mdash;Proceed as with spinach in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Clean well and cut in pieces a quart of fresh
+mushrooms; soak them in cold water, in which you have put the juice of a
+lemon; drain, and chop them fine. Put a stewpan on the fire, with a
+piece of butter the size of a duck's egg; when melted, put your
+mushrooms in; when half fried, add the juice of a lemon, finish frying,
+then cover with some roux-sauce; let simmer till it becomes rather
+thick, strain and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Onions.</i>&mdash;Peel, quarter, and blanch for eight minutes, a dozen
+onions. Drain and put them in a saucepan with four or six ounces of
+butter, according to the size of the onions; set on a slow fire, stir
+now and then till well done; then season with salt, a little flour, stir
+for two minutes to cook the flour, and mix it thoroughly with the rest;
+take from the fire; add cream, little by little, stirring the while. It
+does not require much cream to make the <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of a proper thickness.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span>
+Mash through a sieve or fine colander, add a pinch of sugar, and it is
+ready for use.</p>
+
+<p>It makes an excellent <i>pur&eacute;e</i>, and is good served with nearly every kind
+of meat.</p>
+
+<p>Made with white onions, and properly mashed through a sieve, it looks
+like cream, and is almost as white as snow.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="FISH" id="FISH"></a>FISH.</h2>
+
+
+<p>The Indians bleed the fish as soon as caught, because the flesh is
+firmer when cooked.</p>
+
+<p>The Dutch and the French bleed the cod, which accounts for the better
+quality and whiteness of their cod-fish.</p>
+
+<p><i>To select.</i>&mdash;To be good, fish must be fresh. It is fresh when the eyes
+are clear, the fins stiff, the gills red, hard to open, and without bad
+odor.</p>
+
+<p><i>To clean and prepare for boiling.</i>&mdash;The sooner fish is cleaned the
+better. Cut the belly open, take the inside out, wash well and wipe dry
+immediately with a clean towel, inside and out. Place the eggs or soft
+roes inside, and tie with twine. It is then ready to be boiled.</p>
+
+<p>If not cooked as soon as cleaned and prepared, keep it on ice.</p>
+
+<p><i>To clean and prepare for baking, frying, roasting, and to cut in
+pieces, etc.</i>&mdash;Scale the fish well, holding it by the head or tail; cut
+the belly open and take the inside out; trim off the fins, gills, and
+tail; wash well inside and out, and wipe dry immediately.</p>
+
+<p>Keep it on ice if not used immediately.</p>
+
+<p><i>Same Family, or Kind.</i>&mdash;We give only one receipt for all the fishes of
+the same family, or having the same kind of flesh, as they are cooked
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>
+alike, and require the same spices.</p>
+
+<p>Almost every kind of fish is boiled, broiled, fried, or stewed. Some are
+better boiled than broiled, others better fried than stewed, etc. With
+few exceptions, any eatable fish may be cooked in these four ways. Few
+are roasted.</p>
+
+<p><i>To know when cooked enough.</i>&mdash;It is very difficult, if not entirely
+impossible, to tell how long it takes to cook fish, as it depends as
+much on the size, kind, or quality of the fish as on the fire; but as
+soon as the flesh comes off the bones easily, the fish is cooked; this
+is very easy to be ascertained with a knife.</p>
+
+<p><i>To improve.</i>&mdash;Clean the fish as for baking, etc., and lay it in a
+crockery vessel with the following seasonings under and upon it: parsley
+and onions chopped fine, salt, pepper, thyme, bay-leaves, and vinegar or
+oil; turn it over occasionally, and leave thus for two or three hours.</p>
+
+<p><i>To bone.</i>&mdash;Slit the fish on one side of the backbone and fins, from
+head to tail; then run the knife between the bones and the flesh so as
+to detach the whole side from the rest; do the same for the other side.</p>
+
+<p>For a flounder, or any other flat fish, slit right in the middle of both
+sides of the fish so as to make four instead of two pieces.</p>
+
+<p>The head, bones, and fins are not used at all, and are left in one
+piece.</p>
+
+<p><i>To serve, when boiled.</i>&mdash;The fish is placed on a napkin and on a dish
+or platter, surrounded with parsley, and the sauce served in a saucer.</p>
+
+<p><i>To skin.</i>&mdash;Take hold of the piece of fish by the smaller end, and with
+the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; run the knife between the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span>
+flesh and skin, moving the knife to and fro as if you were sawing.
+Throw away the skin, and the fish is ready for cooking.</p>
+
+<p>If the skin were breaking, as it happens sometimes, take hold of it
+again, and proceed as before.</p>
+
+<p><i>To decorate.</i>&mdash;Fish may be decorated with jelly, but it is easier and
+more sightly with craw-fish. The skewers are stuck in the fish as they
+are in a <i>fillet of beef</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The craw-fish when boiled are red like the lobster, and, besides using
+them with skewers, some may be placed all around the fish; it is
+delicate eating as well as sightly. Skewers are never used with fish in
+<i>vinaigrette</i>, or when the fish is cut in pieces. The craw-fish has only
+to be boiled before using it for decorating fish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Shrimps</i> and <i>prawns</i> are used the same as craw-fish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oysters</i> are also used, raw or blanched; run the skewer through a large
+oyster or craw-fish, then through a slice of truffle; again through an
+oyster, truffle, etc.; through two, three, or more of each, according to
+the size of the skewer or of the fish.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0127.jpg" width="306" height="193" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Fish-kettle.</i>&mdash;A fish-kettle must have a double bottom. It is more
+handy to take the fish off without breaking it, and there is no danger
+of having it spoiled while cooking. Fish-kettles are found in every
+house-furnishing store.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span>
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare the fish, as directed for baking; put it in
+a baking-pan with salt, pepper, and butter spread all over it; just
+cover the bottom of the pan with water or broth; place a piece of
+buttered paper over it and bake. Baste two or three times; take off when
+done, and serve warm with a sauce.</p>
+
+<p>While the fish is baking you prepare the sauce, put it in a boat, and
+serve warm with the fish.</p>
+
+<p>A baked fish may be served with its gravy only, adding a few drops of
+lemon-juice or vinegar, or with any kind of sauce, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Balls.</i>&mdash;Fish-balls are often called <i>fish-cakes</i> or <i>fish-croquettes</i>.
+They are generally made with cold fish, but it may be cooked especially
+to make balls.</p>
+
+<p>Fish, full of bones, like shad, is not fit to make balls; cod is the
+easiest.</p>
+
+<p>Commence by chopping the flesh very fine, then chop fine also a small
+piece of onion and fry it with butter (half a middling-sized onion with
+two ounces of butter are enough for half a pound of fish); when fried
+stir in it a tablespoonful of flour, and about half a minute after turn
+the fish in with about a gill of broth or water, salt, pepper, and a
+pinch of nutmeg; stir till it turns rather thick, which will take two or
+three minutes; take from the fire, mix two yolks of eggs with it; put
+back on the fire for about one minute, stirring the while; then add two
+or three mushrooms or one truffle, or both, chopped fine. Turn the
+mixture into a dish, spread it, and put it away to cool for two or three
+hours, or over night.</p>
+
+<p>Before cooking, mix the whole well, the upper part being more dry than
+that which is under; put it in parts on the paste-board, roll each part
+to the shape you wish, either round, oval, or flat; the paste-board must
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span>
+be dusted with bread-crumbs or flour to help in handling the mixture,
+then boil or fry, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be baked in cakes.</p>
+
+<p>When fried, they may be dipped in beaten egg, rolled in bread-crumbs,
+and then fried in hot fat. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Boiled.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare the fish as directed, and put it in a
+fish-kettle; cover it with cold water (sea-water is the best); add the
+following seasonings to a pound of fish: two stalks of parsley, one of
+tarragon if handy, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and half a
+middling-sized onion sliced; salt if boiled in fresh water. Set on the
+fire, and, for a fish weighing two pounds or under, take off at the
+first boiling&mdash;it is done enough. For a fish weighing five pounds, boil
+five minutes, etc., that is, about one minute for each pound. If it were
+a thick slice of fish instead of a whole one, weighing two or three
+pounds, it should be boiled two or three minutes longer, etc., according
+to thickness.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Slit the fish on the back and clean it; salt and pepper it;
+have a little melted butter and spread it all over the fish, on both
+sides, with a brush, and broil it. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Broiling</span>.)</p>
+
+<p>While the fish is broiling, prepare a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'hotel</i> sauce, spread it
+on the fish as soon as dished, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be served with anchovy butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Any small fish of the size of a smelt, or smaller, is better
+fried than prepared in any other way.</p>
+
+<p>Clean and prepare the fish as directed, wipe it dry. Dip it in milk,
+place in a colander for five minutes, then roll in flour, and fry. It
+may also be fried just rolled in flour.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When wiped dry, dip in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs,
+and fry.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;When wiped dry, dip the fish in butter, and fry. Then the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span>
+fish is dropped in hot fat (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>), turned into a colander,
+salted, and served hot, with fried parsley around or in the middle,
+according to how the fish is arranged in the dish.</p>
+
+<p>Fry the following as above: <i>carp</i>, <i>tench</i>, <i>frost</i>, <i>bass</i>, <i>perch</i>,
+<i>black and blue fish</i>, <i>gold</i>, <i>loach</i>, <i>mullet</i>, <i>porgy</i>, <i>weak</i>,
+<i>flounder</i>, <i>pike</i>, <i>pickerel</i>, <i>smelt</i>, <i>sun</i>, <i>herring</i>, and
+<i>white-fish of the lakes</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Orly.</i>&mdash;If it is small fish, like the smelt, it is prepared whole;
+if the fish is larger, it must be boned and skinned, and cut in pieces
+about two inches long. Roll the fish, or pieces of fish, slightly in
+flour; dip it in beaten egg, and roll it again in bread-crumbs; then fry
+it in hot fat as above.</p>
+
+<p>When fried, serve it with a tomato-sauce.</p>
+
+<p>The fish may be served on a napkin in a dish, and the sauce in a boat or
+saucer.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;The following fishes only are roasted: <i>eel</i>, <i>salmon</i>,
+<i>shad</i>, <i>pike</i>, <i>turbot</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Clean and prepare as directed, and then tie with twine. Spread salt,
+pepper, and melted butter (with a brush) all over the fish, and then
+envelop it in buttered paper; set on the spit and roast. Baste with a
+little melted butter, and remove the paper about five minutes before it
+is done.</p>
+
+<p>When on the dish the twine is cut off and removed, and it is served as
+hot as possible with the following sauces, to which tarragon is added in
+making them, if handy: <i>caper</i>, <i>Hollandaise</i>, <i>Mayonnaise</i>, <i>piquante</i>,
+<i>poivrade</i>, and <i>r&eacute;molade</i>. A roast fish is served after roast meat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Clean, and cut in slices half an inch thick, or leave
+entire, as it suits you; skin it well; lay it in a crockery vessel,
+spread over it some chopped parsley, grated nutmeg, salt, pepper, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span>
+two gills of white wine (this is for about three pounds), leave thus
+two hours; then take the fish only, envelop it in buttered paper, fix it
+on the spit before a good fire, baste with the wine and seasonings from
+the crockery dish, and when nearly done take the paper off; finish the
+cooking, basting the while, and serve with the drippings, to which you
+may add a little vinegar, sweet-oil, and mustard.</p>
+
+<p>If there is any left, you can serve it cold the next day with an
+oil-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Scale, clean, and prepare the fish as directed. For one pound
+of fish put about one ounce of butter in a frying-pan on the fire, and
+when melted put the fish in; fry it on both sides, and serve it with a
+<i>ma&icirc;tre d'hotel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare as directed three pounds of fish, cut it in
+pieces about two inches long. Put in a fish-kettle four ounces of
+butter, kneaded with a teaspoonful of flour, and the same of chopped
+parsley, add two or three mushrooms cut in pieces, salt and pepper, then
+the fish and a glass of claret wine, or a wine-glass of vinegar; cover
+with water, set on a good fire, boil gently till cooked; dish the pieces
+of fish, strain the sauce on them, spread the pieces of mushrooms over,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;When cleansed, cut out the backbone from the head to within
+two inches of the tail, and fill its place with the following mixture:
+soak stale bread in cold water and then squeeze the water out; put one
+ounce of butter into a saucepan and set it on the fire; as soon as
+melted, fry in it one middle-sized onion, chopped fine; then add the
+bread; stir for two minutes, add also salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg,
+two or three tablespoonfuls of broth; stir again two or three minutes;
+take the pan from the fire, add a yolk of egg, put back on the fire for
+half a minute, stirring the while, take off again, add a teaspoonful of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span>
+chopped parsley, and use. When full, tie the fish with twine; place it
+in a baking-pan, salt and pepper it; spread a little butter on it also;
+cover the bottom of the pan with cold water, bake and serve with its
+gravy.</p>
+
+<p>If there is not gravy enough, or if it has dried away, add a little
+broth a few minutes before taking from the oven.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fish au Gratin.</i>&mdash;Bone and skin the fish as directed. For a fish
+weighing about two pounds, spread one ounce of butter on a tin plate or
+baking-pan, spread over it half an onion, chopped; place the pieces of
+fish on them; add salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar or a
+wine-glass of white wine, and half an ounce of butter; spread over and
+bake.</p>
+
+<p>While it is baking, put in a small saucepan one ounce of butter, and set
+it on the fire; when melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir,
+and, when it is turning yellow, add also about one gill of broth, two
+tablespoonfuls of meat-gravy, the juice of the fish when baked (if the
+fish be not done when the time comes to put the juice in the pan, keep
+the pan in a warm place, and wait), salt, and pepper; boil gently about
+five minutes, stirring occasionally. Place the fish in a tin or silver
+dish, spread three or four mushrooms sliced over it; turn the sauce
+gently over the whole, dust with bread-crumbs; put half an ounce of
+butter, in four or five pieces, on the whole; bake ten or twelve
+minutes, and serve in the dish in which it is.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Matelote.</i>&mdash;Every kind of fish is good in <i>matelote</i>, but the
+following are the best: <i>bass</i>, <i>black-fish</i>, <i>blue-fish</i>, <i>carp</i>,
+<i>eel</i>, <i>perch</i>, <i>pickerel</i>, <i>pike</i>, <i>porgy</i>, <i>tench</i>, <i>trout</i>, and
+<i>craw-fish</i>.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>matelote</i> may be made of eels alone, but it is better with eels and
+one, two, or three other kinds of fish.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span>
+<p>Eels tasting of mud are not good. There is a sure way of taking away the
+muddy taste, but it is a rather expensive one. Boil them a few minutes
+in claret wine and a little salt, before using them.</p>
+
+<p>Clean, and prepare as directed, one pound of eels, one pound of pike,
+and one pound of trout, or one pound of any of the fishes named
+above&mdash;in all, three pounds. Cut the fish in pieces about two inches
+long, fry it slightly with a little butter, and put it away for awhile.</p>
+
+<p>Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire; when
+melted, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir, and, when the flour is
+turning rather brown, add also about a quart of broth, a pint of claret,
+a bunch of seasonings, composed of half a dozen stalks of parsley, two
+of thyme, two bay-leaves, and two cloves, also salt, pepper, two cloves
+of garlic, and six button onions; boil gently for about half an hour.
+Then put the fish in with from six to twelve mushrooms, broth enough to
+cover the whole, if the broth and wine already in do not cover it; boil
+gently for about half an hour, or till the fish is cooked, tossing the
+saucepan now and then; dish the fish; place the mushrooms and onions all
+over; sprinkle the sauce over it through a strainer, and serve warm.
+<i>Croutons</i> may be served around.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another, or Marini&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;Prepare and cut the fish as for the above, but
+instead of frying it put it in a saucepan, into which you have put
+previously about half a dozen sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two
+bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, twelve small onions, two cloves, salt,
+and pepper; when the fish is placed over the above seasonings, cover
+entirely with claret wine. Set the saucepan on a sharp fire, and, as
+soon as it boils, throw into it a glass of French brandy, set it on
+fire, and let it burn. It will not burn very long, but enough to give a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span>
+good taste to it. As soon as it stops burning, knead four ounces of
+butter with a tablespoonful of flour, and put it in the pan; toss the
+pan gently now and then till done. It takes about forty minutes with a
+good fire.</p>
+
+<p>When done, dish the fish carefully, place the mushrooms all over it, the
+onions all around, strain the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Croutons</i> may also be served with the rest; put around the fish one
+<i>crouton</i>, then an onion, and so on, all around.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above, in every particular, except that
+you cover the fish and seasonings with broth and white wine, half of
+each, instead of claret. Serve in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>matelote</i> may be made three or four days in advance, and then warmed
+in boiling water (<i>bain-marie</i>) just before serving it.</p>
+
+<p>Many prefer a <i>matelote</i> made four days before eating it, and prepared
+in the following way: When made, put it away to cool as quickly as
+possible; twenty-four hours after that, warm it in boiling water; cool,
+and warm again in the same way once a day. If the sauce becomes thick,
+add a little broth. Serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Vinaigrette</i>.&mdash;Boil a fish as directed, take it from the kettle and let
+cool; then dish it. Chop fine the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs; do the
+same with the two whites; chop also a handful of parsley. Put a string
+of the yolks on both sides of the fish, then along that a string of the
+whites, and along these a string of the parsley; along the parsley, and
+about half an inch apart, a string of capers. Cut a lemon in sixteen
+slices, and in the following way: first split the lemon in two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span>
+lengthwise, then split again each half in two and lengthwise also; by
+splitting four times, you have sixteen pieces, resembling somewhat the
+carpels of oranges. After the first splitting, hold the piece of lemon
+with the nail of the left thumb, the rind downward, and always split
+lengthwise and in the middle. Place eight pieces on each side of the
+dish and along the capers, and serve cold, with stalks of parsley on top
+of the fish, and also two or three in its mouth.</p>
+
+<p>Serve with it a vinaigrette, in a saucer or boat.</p>
+
+<p>The following fishes, <i>bass</i>, <i>black and blue fish</i>, <i>carp</i>, <i>cat</i>,
+<i>dory</i>, <i>drum</i>, <i>gar</i>, <i>gurnard</i>, <i>herring</i>, <i>king</i>, <i>lump</i>, <i>mackerel</i>,
+<i>parr</i>, <i>perch</i>, <i>pickerel</i>, <i>pike</i>, <i>pilot</i>, <i>porgy</i>, <i>roach</i>, <i>rock</i>,
+<i>scup</i>, <i>sucker</i>, <i>sword</i>, <i>tautog</i>, <i>tench</i>, <i>trout</i>, <i>troutlet</i>,
+<i>weak</i>, and <i>weaver</i>, after being baked or boiled as directed, may be
+served with the following sauces: <i>anchovy</i>, <i>caper</i>, <i>g&eacute;nevoise</i>,
+<i>g&eacute;noise</i>, <i>au gratin</i>, <i>Hollandaise</i>, <i>Italienne</i>, <i>matelote</i>,
+<i>tomato</i>, <i>Tartar</i>, and <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It would be perfectly useless to have a receipt for each fish, since the
+preparation is the same.</p>
+
+<p>The same fishes are also prepared <i>au court bouillon</i>. Clean and prepare
+about three pounds of fish, as directed for baking, etc. It may be one
+fish or several, according to size. Place the fish in a fish-kettle,
+just cover it with cold water and a gill of vinegar, or with half water
+and half white wine; season with three or four sprigs of parsley, one of
+thyme, a bay-leaf, one clove, one onion, half a carrot (in slices), two
+cloves of garlic, salt, pepper, and a little tarragon, if handy. Set on
+the fire, and boil gently till done. Dish the fish, and serve it warm
+with a caper or anchovy sauce in a boat, or with currant jelly.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same&mdash;&agrave; la Bretonne.</i>&mdash;Slit the fish on the back, as for broiling,
+and clean it. When wiped dry, lay it in a bake-pan in which there is a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span>
+little melted butter, the inside of the fish under; place thus on a
+good fire, turn over when done on one side, and, when cooked, spread
+some <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> on it, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same&mdash;aux fines herbes.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare as for baking, etc.,
+and also improve it as directed. Envelop the fish in buttered paper, and
+also the seasonings in which it has been improved, except the thyme and
+bay-leaves, broil it, and serve with <i>piquante</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cod-fish</i>, <i>cusk</i>, <i>haddock</i>, <i>hake</i>, <i>halibut</i>, <i>pollack</i>, and
+<i>torsk</i>, after being baked or boiled as directed, are served with the
+following sauces:</p>
+
+<p><i>Anchovy</i>, <i>B&eacute;chamel</i>, <i>caper</i>, <i>cream</i>, <i>egg</i>, <i>Hollandaise</i>, <i>ma&icirc;tre
+d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, <i>tomato</i>, <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>EEL, CONGER, AND LAMPREY.</h4>
+
+<p><i>To clean.</i>&mdash;When skinned, clean, head, and tail them. Then throw them
+in boiling water, in which you have put a little salt and a teaspoonful
+of vinegar; leave them in it about five minutes, take out, and drain.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Clean and cut two pounds of eel, or of either of the others,
+in pieces about three inches long. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter
+the size of an egg, and set it on the fire; when hot, lay the eels in,
+fry about three minutes, turning them over the while; then turn the
+whole into a crockery vessel, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and
+onions, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of sweet-oil, salt,
+and pepper; set on the fire and simmer two hours; take off, roll the
+pieces in fine bread-crumbs, place them on a gridiron, and on a good
+fire, and serve when done with <i>piquante</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p>From the nature of their flesh, eels require to be prepared thus; and,
+when properly done, make really a very good dish.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span>
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;Prepare the eels as for broiling, and, instead of placing on
+the gridiron, envelop them in oiled paper and roast before a sharp fire.
+Serve with <i>piquante</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, or Tartar sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Prepare as for broiling as far as rolling in bread-crumbs,
+then dip in beaten-egg, roll in bread-crumbs again, and fry. (<i>See</i>
+<span class="smcap">Frying</span>.) Serve with tomato-sauce, or just as it is.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel.</i>&mdash;Clean as directed, but boil twenty minutes instead
+of five. Serve with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce and steamed potatoes, or
+with muscle, oyster, shrimp, or Tartar sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Matelote.</i>&mdash;(<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Fish in Matelote</span>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;Clean as directed; stuff it with currant jelly, bake or
+roast, and serve with currant jelly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Flounder</i> (wrongly called <i>sole</i>; the flounder is as good as the
+sole&mdash;the soles that may be found here are imported from Europe or from
+Newfoundland), <i>dab-fish</i>, and <i>plaice</i>, after being baked or boiled,
+may be served with the following sauces:</p>
+
+<p><i>Allemande</i>, <i>anchovy</i>, <i>anchovy-butter</i>, <i>Mayonnaise</i>, <i>tomato</i>, and
+<i>au gratin</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Clean three pounds of the above fish. Put in a crockery dish
+four ounces of butter, set it on a good fire, and when melted sprinkle
+in it a teaspoonful of flour, stirring the while; also, a pinch of
+grated nutmeg, salt, pepper, a saltspoonful of chopped parsley, two or
+three mushrooms, also chopped, then the fish; pour on it a glass of
+white wine, and a liquor-glass of French brandy; cover the dish, take it
+from the fire, and put it in a moderately heated oven, and serve when
+done just as it is, and in the crockery dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Normande</i>.&mdash;Bone and skin the fish as directed. For a fish
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span>
+weighing four pounds, spread two ounces of butter on the bottom of a
+baking-pan; spread one onion, chopped fine, over the butter, and as much
+carrot, cut in small dice. Place the fish over the whole, the pieces as
+they are, or cut according to the size of the pan, salt and pepper, and
+bake. Take from the oven when done and dish the fish, leaving the juice
+in the pan; cut the stems of about a dozen mushrooms; place the heads on
+the middle of the fish, and the stems around it.</p>
+
+<p>Mix cold a tablespoonful of flour and the same of butter in a saucepan,
+turn into it a pint of broth, set on the fire and stir continually; when
+thoroughly mixed, turn into it also, and through a strainer, the juice
+from the pan in which the fish has baked; stir again two or three
+minutes; turn gently over the fish, put in the oven for about ten
+minutes, and serve hot. <i>Croutons</i> may be placed around the dish as a
+decoration.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another Normande.</i>&mdash;Bone and skin the fish as directed; butter well the
+dish on which the fish is to be served, spread some chopped onion all
+over, then place the fish over it; sprinkle salt, pepper, and white wine
+or vinegar (a tablespoonful to a pound of fish), all over the fish, and
+bake it. It takes about fifteen minutes for a fish weighing two or three
+pounds. Wine is better than vinegar.</p>
+
+<p>While the fish is baking, set a saucepan on the fire with an ounce of
+butter in it, and when melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour; stir,
+and when turning yellow, add also half a pint of broth or water, salt,
+then the juice from the fish when baked, stir, give one boil, and turn
+over the fish.</p>
+
+<p>Blanch a dozen or so of oysters, place them all over the fish also.</p>
+
+<p>Have ready two or three potatoes, cut with a round vegetable spoon;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span>
+boil till done; place them around the fish as a border for it; dust then
+the whole with bread-crumbs, put in a warm oven for about fifteen
+minutes, take off, place half a dozen <i>croutons</i> all around the dish
+also, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>croutons</i> are generally cut of a heart-shape. It will be easily
+done if the directions are followed properly and carefully.</p>
+
+<p>Commence by cutting the bread, then cut the potatoes, and set them on
+the fire with cold water and salt; while they are cooking, prepare the
+fish and set it in the oven; while this is baking, make the sauce, fry
+the <i>croutons</i>, and blanch the oysters. If the fish is baked before the
+rest are ready, take it off and keep warm till wanted. It makes a
+sightly and excellent dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same fried.</i>&mdash;Small flounders are fried like other small fish, and
+served either with or without a tomato-sauce or <i>&agrave; la Orly</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, boned and fried.</i>&mdash;Bone and skin small flounders as directed;
+mix together a tablespoonful of oil, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+the juice of half a lemon, and salt; dip the pieces of fish in the
+mixture, dust them slightly with flour, and fry. Serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pike, Pickerel, and Trout or Troutlet.</i>&mdash;Those three fish, besides
+being prepared as directed for bass, etc., and in all its different
+ways, they are boiled as directed and served warm, with a <i>g&eacute;noise</i>
+sauce.</p>
+
+<p>A more delicious dish of fish can hardly be prepared.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ray, Skate, and Angel or Monk fish.</i>&mdash;Ray, though excellent, is very
+little known; there is only one place at which it can be
+bought&mdash;Washington Market, New York.</p>
+
+<p>It is unquestionably an excellent dish, prepared <i>au beurre noir</i>. When
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span>
+clean, boil the fish as directed, and dish it, sprinkling salt and
+pepper on it.</p>
+
+<p>While it is boiling, put about two ounces of butter to a pound of fish
+in a frying-pan, set it on a sharp fire, stir now and then, and when
+brown, throw into it about six sprigs of parsley, which you take off
+immediately with a skimmer. As soon as the parsley is taken off, pour
+the butter over the fish, quickly put two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in
+the frying-pan and over the fire, give one boil, and pour also over the
+fish. Frying the parsley and boiling the vinegar cannot be done too
+fast, as the fish must be served very warm. The warmer it is served, the
+better it is.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salmon</i>, <i>sturgeon</i>, and <i>white-fish</i>, after being baked or boiled, may
+be served with a caper, and also with a <i>Mayonnaise</i> sauce. They may
+also be served in <i>court bouillon</i>, like bass. They are broiled whole,
+or in slices, and served with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> or a caper sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same in Fricandeau.</i>&mdash;Cut the fish in slices about half an inch
+thick, and place them in a saucepan with slices of fat salt pork,
+carrots and onions under them; set on a good fire; ten minutes after,
+add a little broth, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan; after
+about five minutes, turn the slices over; finish the cooking and serve
+with the gravy strained over the fish, or with a tomato-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same in Papillotes.</i>&mdash;Fry slices of salmon with a little butter,
+and until of a golden color; take them from the fire. While they are
+frying, mix well together parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, melted
+butter, grated nutmeg, and a little lemon-juice; spread some of the
+mixture on both sides of the slices of fish, envelop them in buttered or
+oiled paper; broil, and serve them hot.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>
+<p>Some mushrooms or truffles, or both, and chopped, may be added to the
+mixture.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same &agrave; la G&eacute;nevoise.</i>&mdash;Put in a saucepan a thick slice of
+salmon&mdash;from five to six pounds; just cover it with broth and claret
+wine&mdash;half of each; season with a bunch of seasonings composed of six or
+eight sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, two cloves, and
+two cloves of garlic, salt, a few slices of carrot, and a small green
+onion, or a shallot, if handy. Boil gently till nearly done, when add
+about a dozen mushrooms, and keep boiling till done; dish the fish, and
+put it in a warm but not hot place; mix cold, in a saucepan, four ounces
+of butter with about two ounces of flour; turn over it, through a
+strainer, the liquor in which the fish has been cooked, and set on a
+sharp fire; after about three minutes, during which you have stirred
+with a wooden spoon, add the mushrooms; stir again for about two
+minutes, turn over the fish, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same in Salad.</i>&mdash;Boil, as directed for fish, some thin slices of
+salmon, drain, and serve cold, on a napkin and on a dish.</p>
+
+<p>Serve with it, and in a boat, the following: half a teaspoonful of salt,
+a pinch of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, four of sweet oil, a
+pickled cucumber chopped fine, two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine also,
+two or three anchovies, and a tablespoonful of capers; the anchovies may
+be chopped fine or pounded. Beat the whole well and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same in Scallops.</i>&mdash;Cut it in round slices, about one-eighth of an
+inch in thickness; fry them with butter, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>The pieces should be tastefully arranged on a dish, imitating a flight
+of stairs.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span>
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Cut it in rather thin slices, butter both sides with a
+brush; broil, and serve with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Shad</i> and <i>sheep's-head</i>, after being baked or boiled, are served with
+an anchovy, caper, or tomato sauce. They are also served cold, <i>&agrave; la
+vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared, salt, pepper, and butter it;
+broil and serve it with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It may be <i>stuffed</i> as directed for fish.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Proven&ccedil;ale.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and cut the fish in pieces about two
+inches long; put about three pounds of it in a saucepan, with a pint of
+claret; six stalks of parsley, a small onion, a clove of garlic, and six
+mushrooms, all chopped fine; boil till done, when add four ounces of
+butter, and two of flour, well kneaded together; boil three minutes
+longer, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way, or &agrave; la Chambord.</i>&mdash;Stuff the fish with sausage-meat,
+envelop it in a towel, boil, and serve it with a tomato-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same with Sorrel.</i>&mdash;Broil the fish, and serve it on a pur&eacute;e of
+sorrel or of spinach.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be prepared <i>au court bouillon</i>, <i>&agrave; la Bretonne</i>, and <i>aux
+fines herbes</i>, like bass, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sheep's-head</i> may also be prepared like turbot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Gratin.</i>&mdash;The shad, after being cleaned, but not split on the back
+(as is too often the case, to the shame of the fishmongers who begin by
+spoiling the fish under the pretence of cleaning it), is placed in a
+bake-pan, having butter, chopped parsley, mushroom, salt, and pepper,
+both under and above the fish. For a fish weighing three pounds, add one
+gill of broth and half as much of white wine; dust the fish with
+bread-crumbs, and set in a pretty quick oven.</p>
+
+<p>Fifteen minutes afterward, examine it. When done, the fish is dished, a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span>
+little broth is put in the pan, which is placed on a sharp fire; stir
+with a spoon or fork so as to detach the bread, etc., that may stick to
+the pan, then pour this over the fish, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>The gravy must be reduced to two or three tablespoonfuls only, for a
+fish weighing about two pounds.</p>
+
+<p>The fish must be dished carefully in order not to break it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sterlet.</i>&mdash;This is a fish of the sturgeon family, very plentiful in the
+Caspian Sea and in many Russian rivers, principally in the Neva and in
+Lake Ladoga.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tunny</i> and <i>bonito</i>, after being boiled, are served cold in
+<i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Turbot and Whiff.</i>&mdash;Turbot is among fishes what pheasant is among
+birds. Rub it with lemon before cooking it.</p>
+
+<p>After being boiled or baked, as directed, it is served with the
+following sauces: <i>B&eacute;chamel</i>, <i>cream</i>, <i>caper</i>, <i>Hollandaise</i>,
+<i>Mayonnaise</i>, <i>tomato</i>, and in <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is also served <i>au court-bouillon</i> and <i>aux fines herbes</i> like bass.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Gratin.</i>&mdash;It is prepared and served like shad au gratin.</p>
+
+<p>It is also broiled and served with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bordelaise.</i>&mdash;Bone and skin the fish as directed; dip each piece in
+melted butter, then in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs and broil. While
+it is broiling on a rather slow fire, turn it over several times and
+keep basting with melted butter; the more butter it absorbs the better
+the fish.</p>
+
+<p>When broiled, serve the slices on a dish and place some boiled craw-fish
+all around and in the middle. A dish of steamed potatoes is served with
+it.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span>
+<p>The following sauce is also served at the same time: Chop fine and fry
+till half done, with a little butter, two small green onions or four
+shallots. Put half a pint of good meat-gravy in a small saucepan; set on
+the fire, and as soon as it commences to boil, pour into it, little by
+little, stirring the while with a wooden spoon, about a gill of Bordeaux
+wine, then the onions or shallots, and also a piece of beef marrow
+chopped fine; give one boil, and serve in a saucer.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Salad.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for salmon in salad.</p>
+
+<p>When <i>boiled</i>, serve the turbot with anchovy-butter, lobster-butter,
+lobster-sauce, or muscle-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;Any cold piece of turbot is served with a <i>Mayonnaise</i> sauce,
+or in <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold Fish.</i>&mdash;If the fish is with sauce, that is, if the sauce is in the
+same dish with the fish, warm it in the <i>bain-marie</i>, and serve warm.
+Any other piece of cold fish, baked, boiled, broiled, or roasted, is
+served with a <i>Mayonnaise</i> sauce, or with a <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Any kind of cold fish may be prepared in salad. Slice the fish or cut it
+in pieces and put it in the salad-dish with hard-boiled egg sliced,
+onion and parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil. Mix the
+whole gently and well, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Anchovy.</i>&mdash;It is imported preserved. It is used as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>,
+to decorate or season.</p>
+
+<p>The essence of anchovy is used for sauce.</p>
+
+<p>The smallest are considered the best.</p>
+
+<p>To serve as a <i>hors d'oeuvre</i>, wash, wipe dry, and remove the backbone,
+serve with tarragon or parsley, chopped fine, vinegar, and oil.</p>
+
+<p>They may also be served with hard-boiled eggs, chopped or quartered.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span>
+<p><i>Sprats.</i>&mdash;There are none in or near American waters; they are imported
+under their French name, sardines. Fresh sprats are very good boiled
+without any grease, and without being cleaned and prepared like other
+fish; but when on the plate, skin them, which is easily done, as then
+the flesh is so easily detached from the bones that the inside need not
+be touched at all; they are eaten with salt and pepper only.</p>
+
+<p>Sardines are served as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, with oil and lemon-juice, and
+properly scaled. They are arranged on the dish according to fancy,
+together with lemon in slices.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salt Cod&mdash;to prepare.</i>&mdash;Soak it in cold water for two days, changing
+the water two or three times; then scale it well and clean. Lay it in a
+fish-kettle, cover with cold water, set on a rather slow fire, skim off
+the scum, let it boil about one minute, take the kettle from the fire,
+cover it well, and leave thus ten minutes; then take off the cod, and
+drain it.</p>
+
+<p><i>In B&eacute;chamel.</i>&mdash;Prepare it as above, and serve with a b&eacute;chamel sauce,
+and as warm as possible.</p>
+
+<p><i>With a Cream-Sauce.</i>&mdash;Prepare as above, and serve either warm or cold
+with a cream-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Brown Butter.</i>&mdash;When prepared as above, place it on a dish, and keep
+it in a warm place. Put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and on a
+good fire; when turning brown, add three sprigs of parsley, fry about
+two minutes, pour the whole on the fish, and serve. You may also pour on
+it a hot caper-sauce, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Croutons.</i>&mdash;Prepare and cook as directed, three pounds of cod;
+take the bones out, break in small pieces, and mash with the hand as
+much as possible; put it then in a stewpan, beat three yolks of eggs
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span>
+with two tablespoonfuls of cream, and mix with the cod; set on a slow
+fire, and immediately pour in, little by little, stirring the while,
+about one gill of sweet oil; simmer ten or twelve minutes, and serve
+with <i>croutons</i> around.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Ma&icirc;tre d'H&ocirc;tel.</i>&mdash;Lay three pounds of cod on a dish, after being
+cooked as directed; keep it warm, spread a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce on it,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Potatoes.</i>&mdash;Prepare about three pounds of cod as directed above.
+Lay the fish on a dish; have a <i>piquante</i> sauce ready, turn it over it,
+and serve with steamed potatoes all around the dish. The potatoes may
+also be served separately.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Vinaigrette.</i>&mdash;Prepare as directed, and when cold, serve with a
+vinaigrette.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cheese.</i>&mdash;Prepare the cod as directed, then dip it in lukewarm
+butter, roll it in grated cheese, lay it in a baking-pan, dust slightly
+with bread-crumbs; bake, and serve warm. Two or three minutes in a quick
+oven will be sufficient.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Gratin.</i>&mdash;When soaked only and wiped dry, but not boiled, prepare it
+as directed for fish au gratin.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Caper-Sauce.</i>&mdash;Prepare it as directed, and serve warm with
+caper-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salt Salmon.</i>&mdash;Soak it in cold water for some time, the length of time
+to be according to the saltness of the fish; scale and clean it well,
+lay it in a fish-kettle, cover it with cold water, and set it on a
+moderate fire. Boil gently about two minutes, skim off the scum, take
+from the kettle and drain it. Put butter in a frying-pan and set it on
+the fire; when it turns rather brown, put a few sprigs of parsley in it,
+and immediately pour it over the fish in the dish; add a few drops of
+lemon-juice all over, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span>
+<p>It may also be served with a caper or <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce; or, when
+cold, serve <i>&agrave; la vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Salt salmon is also served like salt cod-fish.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be served on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of celery or of onion.</p>
+
+<p><i>Smoked Salmon.</i>&mdash;Cut it in thin slices; have very hot butter or oil in
+a frying-pan, and lay the slices in only long enough to warm them; then
+take out, drain them, and serve with a few drops of lemon-juice or
+vinegar sprinkled on them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tunny.</i>&mdash;This is not a good fish fresh; it is generally preserved, and
+served as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>. It comes from Holland, Italy, and the south
+of France.</p>
+
+<p>Fresh, it is prepared like sturgeon. That prepared in Holland is the
+best. The Dutch cure fish better than any other nation.</p>
+
+<p>When you serve tunny, take it out of the bottle or jar and serve it on a
+small plate, or on a dessert-plate. A very small piece is served,
+generally like every other <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salt Herring.</i>&mdash;Soak in cold or tepid water; if soaked in tepid water,
+it does not require as long; the time must be according to the quality
+or saltness of the fish. Wipe dry, broil, and serve like salt mackerel.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Salt herring may also be soaked in half water and half
+milk, or in milk only; drain and wipe dry. Bone and skin, cut off the
+head, tail, and fins, and serve with oil, vinegar, and pickled
+cucumbers.</p>
+
+<p>They are also served with slices of sour apples, or slices of onions,
+after being soaked and wiped dry.</p>
+
+<p>They may also be broiled slightly and served with oil only, after being
+soaked, or served with sour grape-juice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salt Pike.</i>&mdash;It is prepared and served the same as salt herring; so is
+pickled trout.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>
+<p><i>Red Herring.</i>&mdash;Wipe or skin them, they are not as good when washed; cut
+off the head and tail, split the back open, lay them on a warm and
+well-greased gridiron, set on a slow fire; spread some butter or oil on
+them, turn over, do the same on the other side; broil very little, and
+serve with a <i>vinaigrette</i> and mustard to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Clean and split them as above, soak them in lukewarm
+water for two hours; take out, drain, and wipe dry. Mix two or three
+yolks of eggs with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a
+little melted butter; put some of the mixture around every herring, then
+roll them in fine bread-crumbs, place them on a gridiron on a slow fire:
+and when lightly broiled, serve as the preceding one.</p>
+
+<p>Red herring may also be broiled with bread-crumbs like salt herring.</p>
+
+<p>It is also served as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, cut in slices.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salt Mackerel broiled.</i>&mdash;If the fish be too salt, soak it for a while
+in lukewarm water, take off and wipe dry. Have a little melted fat or
+lard, dip a brush in it and grease slightly both sides of the fish;
+place on or inside of the gridiron, the bars of which must also be
+greased; set on, or before, or under a pretty sharp fire; broil both
+sides; dish the fish, the skin under; spread butter on it; also parsley
+chopped fine, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Lemon-juice may be added if liked, or a few drops of vinegar.</p>
+
+<p>When broiled and dished, spread a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> on it, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When soaked and wiped dry, dip in melted butter, again
+in beaten eggs, and roll in bread-crumbs. Broil and serve with parsley
+and lemon-juice, or with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span>
+<h4>FROGS.</h4>
+
+<p>The hind-legs of frogs only are used as food; formerly they were eaten
+by the French only, but now, frog-eating has become general, and the
+Americans are not behind any others in relishing that kind of food.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Skin well, and throw into boiling water with a little salt,
+for five minutes, the hind-legs only; take out and throw them in cold
+water to cool, and drain. Have hot fat in a pan on the fire (<i>see</i>
+<span class="smcap">Directions for Frying</span>); lay the frogs in, and serve when done with fried
+parsley around.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Skin, boil five minutes, throw in cold water, and drain as
+above. Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter (for two dozen frogs); set
+it on the fire, and when melted, lay the legs in, fry two minutes,
+tossing now and then; then sprinkle on them a teaspoonful of flour, stir
+with a wooden spoon, add two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, one of garlic, salt, white pepper, and half a pint
+of white wine; boil gently till done, dish the legs, reduce the sauce on
+the fire, strain it, mix in it two yolks of eggs, pour on the legs, and
+serve them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LOBSTER.</h4>
+
+<p>Never buy a dead lobster.</p>
+
+<p>Large lobsters are not as good as small ones. From about one to two
+pounds and a half in weight are the best. The heavier the better.</p>
+
+<p>Lobsters are better at some seasons of the year than at others. They are
+inferior when full of eggs.</p>
+
+<p>It is from mere prejudice that the liver (also called <i>tomalley</i>) is
+eschewed. This prejudice may come from its turning green on boiling the
+lobster.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span>
+<p>Use every thing but the stomach and the black of bluish vein running
+along its back and tail.</p>
+
+<p>Boil your lobsters yourself; because, if you buy them already boiled,
+you do not know if they were alive when put in the kettle.</p>
+
+<p>A lobster boiled after being dead is watery, soft, and not full; besides
+being very unhealthy, if not dangerous.</p>
+
+<p>A lobster suffers less by being put in cold than in boiling water, and
+the flesh is firmer when done. In putting it in boiling water it is
+killed by the heat; in cold water it is dead as soon as the water gets
+warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>.&mdash;Lay it in a fish-kettle; just cover it with cold water,
+cover the kettle, and set it on a sharp fire.</p>
+
+<p>It takes from fifteen to twenty-five minutes' boiling, according to the
+size of the lobster.</p>
+
+<p>When boiled, take it from the kettle, break it in two, that is, separate
+the body from the tail, and place it in a colander to let the water
+drain.</p>
+
+<p><i>In the shell.</i>&mdash;When the lobster is boiled, divide it in two, taking
+care not to break the body and large claws. The tail is then split in
+two, lengthwise, the flesh taken off, cut in small dice, and mixed with
+the inside of the lobster.</p>
+
+<p>The vein found immediately under the shell, all along the flesh of the
+lobster, is removed as soon as it is split. The stomach, found near the
+head, is removed also and thrown away; all the rest is good, including
+the liver.</p>
+
+<p>When the flesh and inside are properly mixed, season with salt, pepper,
+vinegar, oil, mustard, and chopped parsley.</p>
+
+<p>Place the body of the lobster on the middle of a dish, the head up, the
+two large claws stretched out, and the two feelers stretched out also
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span>
+and fastened between the claws. A sprig of parsley is put in each claw,
+at the end of it, in the small claws as well as in the two large ones.
+Then the two empty halves of the tail-piece are put around the body of
+the lobster, the prepared flesh placed around them; hard-boiled eggs cut
+in eight pieces each are placed around the dish, tastefully arranged;
+some slices of red, pickled beets and cut with paste-cutters, are placed
+between each piece of egg, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>It makes a simple, good, and very sightly dish.</p>
+
+<p>Half a dozen boiled craw-fish may be placed around the dish also; it
+will add to the decoration.</p>
+
+<p>Two middling-sized lobsters prepared thus will fill a very large dish.
+They should be placed back to back, with only a few craw-fish between,
+and the rest arranged as the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Salad.</i>&mdash;Boil the lobster as directed; break and drain it as
+directed also. Slice the flesh of the tail, place it tastefully on a
+dish; also the flesh from the two large claws, which may be sliced or
+served whole. Lettuce, or hard-boiled eggs, or both, may be arranged on
+the dish also, and served with the following sauce:</p>
+
+<p>Put in a boat or saucer all the inside save the stomach, with salt,
+pepper, vinegar, oil, mustard, and chopped parsley, to taste; beat and
+mix the whole well together, and serve. In case there are eggs, these
+are also to be mixed with the rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Boil and drain as directed; cut all the flesh in dice, and
+put it in a bowl with the inside, some lettuce cut rather fine, salt,
+pepper, vinegar, mustard, and very little oil; mix well, and then put
+the mixture on a dish, placing it like a mound on the middle of the
+dish; spread a <i>Mayonnaise</i> sauce over it; decorate with the centre
+leaves of the lettuce, some hard-boiled eggs cut in slices or in fancy
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span>
+shapes, capers, boiled or pickled red beets, cut also in fancy shapes,
+slices of lemon, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Anchovies, olives, pickled cucumbers, or any other pickled fruit or
+vegetable may also be added.</p>
+
+<p>A rose, or two or three pinks, may be placed right on the top, as a
+decoration. Just before commencing to serve, the rose may be put on a
+dessert plate and offered to a lady.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Coquilles, or Scalloped.</i>&mdash;It is boiled and then finished like
+oysters scalloped.</p>
+
+<p>It may be served thus on scallop-shells, on silver shells, or on its own
+shell; that is, on the shell of the tail, split in two lengthwise, and
+trimmed according to fancy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Croquettes.</i>&mdash;Lobster croquettes are made exactly like <i>fish-balls</i>,
+and then fried according to directions for frying.</p>
+
+<p>They are served warm. It is an excellent dish for <i>breakfast</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;To be fried, the lobster must be bled; separate the body from
+the tail, then cut the tail in pieces, making as many pieces as there
+are joints. Put these pieces in a frying-pan with two or three ounces of
+butter, and one onion, chopped fine; set on a sharp fire, stir now and
+then tin the whole is fried, then add a bunch of seasoning composed of
+three sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove; salt,
+pepper, and three gills of Madeira wine; boil gently till reduced about
+half; dish the pieces of lobster according to fancy; add two or three
+tablespoonfuls of gravy to the sauce, stir it, give one boil, and turn
+it over the lobster through a strainer; serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above in every particular, except that you
+use Sauterne or Catawba wine instead of Madeira, and, besides the
+seasonings, add half a dozen mushrooms, or two truffles, or both.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span>
+<p>Dish the mushrooms and truffles with the lobster, then finish and serve
+as the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Craw-fish.</i>&mdash;These are found in most of the lakes, brooks, and rivers.</p>
+
+<p>In some places they are called <i>river-crabs</i>, or freshwater crabs.</p>
+
+<p>They resemble the lobster, and are often taken for young lobsters.</p>
+
+<p>Besides being a beautiful ornament and much used to decorate dishes,
+they are excellent to eat and very light.</p>
+
+<p>They are dressed and served like lobsters and crabs.</p>
+
+<p>Fishermen are sure to find a ready market for them, though they are, as
+yet, very little known.</p>
+
+<p><i>Crabs.</i>&mdash;Crabs are boiled like lobsters, and may be served like
+lobster, <i>in salad</i>. They are often eaten, only boiled, without any
+seasonings.</p>
+
+<p>Like lobsters also, to be good, crabs must be put in the water alive.</p>
+
+<p>When well washed and clean, they may be prepared in the following way:
+Put them in a saucepan with slices of onions, same of carrots, parsley,
+chives if handy, thyme, bay-leaves, cloves, salt, and pepper-corns; half
+cover them with white wine, add butter, set on a good fire, and boil
+till done. Serve with parsley only.</p>
+
+<p>The sauce may be used a second time by adding a little wine.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>soft-shell crab</i> is blanched five minutes, and <i>fried</i> like fish.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be <i>saut&eacute;</i> with a little butter, and served with a <i>ma&icirc;tre
+d'h&ocirc;tel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broil</i> it also, and serve it with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Muscles.</i>&mdash;These are unwholesome between April and September. They
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span>
+must be heavy, fresh, and of a middling size. The very large ones are
+really inferior.</p>
+
+<p>Soak them in water and wash well several times, then drain.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Poulette.</i>&mdash;Put them in a saucepan with a little parsley chopped
+fine, and set them on a pretty good fire; as soon as they are opened,
+remove the shell to which they are not attached, and keep them in a warm
+place.</p>
+
+<p>For two quarts of muscles, put two ounces of butter in the saucepan in
+which they have been cooked and in which you have left their liquor; set
+on the fire, stir, and as soon as the butter is melted, add and stir
+into it a tablespoonful of flour; when turning a little yellow, add also
+half a dozen pepper-corns, then the muscles; boil gently about ten
+minutes, stirring occasionally; take from the fire, mix one or two yolks
+of eggs with it, a little lemon-juice, parsley chopped fine, and serve
+warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When clean, put them in a saucepan with a few slices of
+carrot, same of onion, two or three stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, six pepper-corns, and salt. Set on the fire, and
+take the muscles from the pan as soon as they open, then remove one
+shell; put them back in the pan, with as much white wine as there is
+liquor from the muscles; boil gently about ten minutes, add the yolk of
+an egg, a little lemon-juice, and dish the muscles; drain the sauce over
+them, add a little chopped parsley, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Fry, and serve the muscles like fried oysters. They may also
+be served like scalloped oysters.</p>
+
+<p><i>Prawns and Shrimps.</i>&mdash;Wash, boil in water and salt, and serve. They may
+be used, like craw-fish, to decorate fish after being boiled.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Wash well, and put two quarts of them in a saucepan
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span>
+with four onions in slices, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, salt, pepper, half a pint of white wine, and two
+ounces of butter, just cover with water and set on a good fire; when
+properly cooked, drain, and serve warm with green parsley all around.
+The liquor may be used a second time.</p>
+
+
+<h4>OYSTERS.</h4>
+
+<p>The American oyster is unquestionably the best that can be found. It
+varies in taste according to how it is treated, either after being
+dredged or while embedded; and also according to the nature of the soil
+and water in which they have lived. It is very wrong to wash oysters. We
+mean by washing oysters, the abominable habit of throwing oysters in
+cold water, as soon as opened, and then sold by the measure. It is more
+than a pity to thus spoil such an excellent and delicate article of
+food.</p>
+
+<p>Oysters, like lobsters, are not good when dead. To ascertain if they are
+alive, as soon as opened and when one of the shells is removed, touch
+gently the edge of the oyster, and, if alive, it will contract.</p>
+
+<p><i>Raw.</i>&mdash;When well washed, open them, detaching the upper shell, then
+detach them from the under shell, but leave them on it; place on a dish,
+and leave the upper shell on every oyster, and serve thus.</p>
+
+<p>To eat them, you remove the upper shell, sprinkle salt, pepper, and
+lemon-juice on, and eat.</p>
+
+<p>When raw oysters are served on a table, at which there are gentlemen
+only, some shallots, chopped fine and gently bruised in a coarse towel,
+are served with them, on a separate dish. The taste of the shallot
+agrees very well with that of the oyster.</p>
+
+<p>A Tartar sauce may be served instead of shallots.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span>
+<p><i>To blanch.</i>&mdash;Set the oysters and a little water on the fire in a
+saucepan, take them off at the first boil, skim off the scum from the
+top, strain them, and drop them in cold water.</p>
+
+<p>The skimming, straining, and dropping in cold water must be done
+quickly&mdash;the quicker the better. If allowed to stay in the warm water,
+or out of water, they get tough.</p>
+
+<p>In dropping them in cold water, see that they are free from pieces of
+shell; take them with a fork if necessary.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as in cold water they are ready for use, but they must always be
+drained again before using them.</p>
+
+<p>When the water used to blanch is employed in preparing them, it is
+explained in the different receipts.</p>
+
+<p>White wine may be used, instead of water, to blanch them, according to
+taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Open the oysters, and put them in a colander for about half an
+hour. They must be as well drained as possible. Then dip them in egg and
+roll in bread-crumbs in the following way: Beat one or two, or three,
+eggs (according to the quantity of oysters to be fried), as for an
+omelet, turn the oysters into the eggs and stir gently; then take one
+after another, roll in bread-crumbs; place each one on your left hand,
+in taking them from the crumbs, and with the other hand press gently on
+it. Put them away in a cool place for about half an hour, and then dip
+again in egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and press in the hand as before. It
+is not indispensable to dip in egg and roll in crumbs a second time; but
+the oysters are better, and you are well repaid for the little extra
+work it requires. While you are preparing them, set some fat on the fire
+in a pan, and when hot enough (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>) drop the oysters in, stir
+gently, take off with a skimmer when fried, turn into a colander, add
+salt, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span>
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;Place the oysters on a hot stove or range, or on coals, and
+as soon as they open take off, remove one shell; turn a little melted
+butter on each, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>There are several other ways.</p>
+
+<p>When blanched, they are served on toast, a little gravy is added, the
+toast placed on a dessert-plate, and served thus.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled</i> and roasted as above is the same thing.</p>
+
+<p>Oysters scalloped on their own shell, and placed on the range instead of
+in the oven, are also called broiled.</p>
+
+<p><i>Scalloped.</i>&mdash;Place the oysters when thoroughly washed on a hot stove,
+and as soon as they open remove one shell, the flatter one of the two,
+and take them from the fire. Sprinkle salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and
+bread-crumbs on them; place on each a piece of butter the size of a
+hazel-nut; put in the oven about ten minutes, and when done add a few
+drops of meat-gravy, to each, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Put a quart of oysters and their liquor in a saucepan, set
+it on the fire, take off at the first boil, and drain. Set a saucepan on
+the fire with two ounces of butter in it; as soon as melted, add a
+teaspoonful of flour, stir, and, when turning rather brown, add the
+juice of the oysters, about a gill of gravy, salt, and pepper; boil
+gently for about ten minutes, stirring now and then. While it is
+boiling, place the oysters on scallop-shells, or on silver shells made
+for that purpose, two or three oysters on each, turn some of the above
+sauce on each, after it has boiled; dust with bread-crumbs, put a little
+piece of butter on each shell, and bake for about twelve minutes in a
+warm oven.</p>
+
+<p>A dozen silver shells served thus make a sightly and excellent dish.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span>
+<p>Some truffles, chopped fine, may be added to the sauce, two minutes
+before taking it from the fire.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Procure two quarts of good and fresh oysters. Set them on a
+sharp fire, with their liquor and a little water, and blanch as
+directed. Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, set on the fire, and
+when melted stir into it a small tablespoonful of flour; as soon as
+mixed, add also a teaspoonful of parsley, chopped fine, and about half a
+pint of broth; boil gently about ten minutes, then add the oysters, salt
+and pepper, boil again about one minute, dish the whole, sprinkle
+lemon-juice on, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>An oyster soup is often called a stew.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Poulette.</i>&mdash;In adding chopped mushrooms to the stewed oysters, at
+the same time that the oysters are put in the pan, you make them in
+<i>poulette</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Washington.</i>&mdash;Fried oysters are called <i>&agrave; la Washington</i>, when
+two, three, or four very large oysters are put together (they adhere
+very easily), dipped in egg, rolled in bread-crumbs, and fried, as
+directed above. It is necessary to have a deep pan, and much fat, to
+immerse them completely.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pickled</i> oysters are always served as a <i>hors d'oeuvre</i>. Place around
+the oysters some hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, and serve with oil and
+vinegar.</p>
+
+<p>Serve them in the same way, with slices of truffles instead of
+hard-boiled eggs.</p>
+
+<p>They may also be served with lemon-juice only.</p>
+
+<p>Or with shallots chopped fine, and then bruised in a coarse towel. This
+last one is considered of too strong a taste for ladies.</p>
+
+<p>They are also served with a Tartar sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Scallops.</i>&mdash;Blanch the scallops for three minutes, drain them. Put
+butter on the fire in a frying-pan, and when melted turn the scallops
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span>
+in; stir now and then, take from the fire when fried, add parsley
+chopped fine, salt, pepper, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>On the Shell.</i>&mdash;Chop fine a middling-sized onion, and fry it with one
+ounce of butter. While the onion is frying, chop fine also one quart of
+scallops and put them with the onion; stir for two or three minutes, or
+till about half fried, when turn the juice off, put back on the fire,
+and add one ounce of butter, one gill of white wine, stir for two or
+three minutes, and if too thick add the juice you have turned off; take
+from the fire, and mix a yolk of egg with it, add salt, pepper, nutmeg
+grated, and parsley chopped fine.</p>
+
+<p>Have the scallop shells properly cleaned, or silver shells, spread the
+mixture on the shells; dust with bread-crumbs, put a piece of butter
+about the size of a hazel-nut on each, and put in an oven, at about 320
+deg. Fahr., for from ten to fifteen minutes.</p>
+
+<p>This is a dish for <i>breakfast</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Scallop, scollop, or escalop, are one and the same fish.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CLAMS.</h4>
+
+<p>Wash clean with a scrubbing-brush and put them in a kettle; set on a
+good fire, and leave till they are wide open; then take from the kettle,
+cut each in two or three pieces, put them in a stewpan with all the
+water they have disgorged in the kettle, and about four ounces of butter
+for fifty clams; boil slowly about an hour, take from the fire, and mix
+with the whole two beaten eggs, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>Clams are also eaten raw with vinegar, salt, and pepper.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chowder.</i>&mdash;This popular dish is made in a hundred different ways, but
+the result is about the same.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span>
+<p>It is generally admitted that boatmen prepare it better than others, and
+the receipts we give below came from the most experienced chowder-men of
+the Harlem River.</p>
+
+<p>Potatoes and crackers are used in different proportions, the more used,
+the thicker the chowder will be.</p>
+
+<p>Put in a <i>pot</i> (technical name) some small slices of fat salt pork,
+enough to line the bottom of it; on that, a layer of potatoes, cut in
+small pieces; on the potatoes, a layer of chopped onions; on the onions,
+a layer of tomatoes, in slices, or canned tomatoes; on the latter a
+layer of clams, whole or chopped (they are generally chopped), then a
+layer of crackers.</p>
+
+<p>Then repeat the process, that is, another layer of potatoes on that of
+the clams; on this, one of onions, etc., till the pot is nearly full.
+Every layer is seasoned with salt and pepper. Other spices are sometimes
+added according to taste; such as thyme, cloves, bay-leaves, and
+tarragon.</p>
+
+<p>When the whole is in, cover with water, set on a slow fire, and when
+nearly done, stir gently, finish cooking, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>As we remarked above, the more potatoes that are used, the thicker it
+will be.</p>
+
+<p>When done, if found too thin, boil a little longer; if found too thick,
+add a little water, give one boil, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above in every particular, except that you
+omit the clams and crackers, and when the rest is nearly cooked, then
+add the chopped clams and broken crackers, boil fast about twenty-five
+minutes longer, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>If found too thick or too thin, proceed exactly as for the one above.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span>
+<p><i>Fish Chowder.</i>&mdash;This is made exactly as clam chowder, using fish
+instead of clams.</p>
+
+<p><i>Clam Bake.</i>&mdash;This is how it is made by the Harlem River clam-baker, <span class="smcap">Tom
+Riley</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Lay the clams on a rock, edge downward, and forming a circle, cover them
+with fine brush; cover the brush with dry sage; cover the sage with
+larger brush; set the whole on fire, and when a little more than half
+burnt (brush and sage), look at the clams by pulling some out, and if
+done enough, brush the fire, cinders, etc., off; mix some tomato or
+cauliflower sauce, or catsup, with the clams (minus their shells); add
+butter and spices to taste, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Done on sand, the clams, in opening, naturally allow the sand to get in,
+and it is anything but pleasant for the teeth while eating them.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="BEEF" id="BEEF"></a>BEEF.</h2>
+
+
+<h4>HOW TO SELECT.</h4>
+
+<p>See if the meat is fine, of a clear red color, with yellowish-white fat.</p>
+
+
+<h4>COW BEEF.</h4>
+
+<p>Cow beef must also be of a clear red color, but more pale than other
+beef; the fat is white.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BULL BEEF.</h4>
+
+<p>Bull beef is never good; you recognize it when you see hard and yellow
+fat; the lean part is of a dirty-reddish color.</p>
+
+<p>The rump piece is generally prepared <i>&agrave; la mode</i>. For steaks, the
+tenderloin and the piece called the porter-house steak, are the best;
+rump steaks are seldom tender.</p>
+
+<p>The roasting or baking pieces are the tenderloin, the fillet, and some
+cuts of the ribs.</p>
+
+<p>For soup, every piece is good; to make rich broth, take pieces of the
+rump, sucket, round, etc., but every piece makes excellent broth, and
+therefore excellent soup. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Broth</span>.)</p>
+
+<p>A good piece of rib, prepared like a fillet or tenderloin, makes an
+excellent dish, the bones and meat around them being used to make
+broth.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span>
+<h4>A LA MODE.</h4>
+
+<p>Take from six to twelve pounds of rump and lard it. To lard it you take
+a steel needle made for that purpose, flat near the pointed end and much
+larger than an ordinary larding-needle. It must be flat near the point
+in order to cut the meat so as to make room for the larger part of the
+needle to pass, and also for the salt pork. This needle is only used for
+beef <i>&agrave; la mode</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the salt pork in square strips to fit the needle, (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Larding</span>),
+and proceed.</p>
+
+<p>Examine the piece of beef, lard with the grain of the meat, so that when
+it is carved the salt pork shall be cut across.</p>
+
+<p>If the piece is too thick to run the strip of pork through, so that both
+ends stick out, lard one side first then the other. We mean by one side
+first, this: to be easily handled, the salt pork cannot be cut longer
+than about four inches; as half an inch of it must stick out of the
+meat, it leaves only three inches inside, and if the piece of meat be
+six inches or more thick, of course it would be impossible to have the
+strip of pork stick out on both sides; therefore, you lard one side
+first; that is, you run the needle through the meat, leaving the salt
+pork stick out on the side you commence, and when that side is larded,
+do the same for the other. You have then the salt pork sticking out on
+both sides of the meat and looking just as if the strips were running
+through the whole piece.</p>
+
+<p>Some like more salt pork than others in the beef; the strips may be run
+thickly or thinly.</p>
+
+<p>Thirty strips may be run into three pounds of meat as well as half a
+dozen; but about half a pound of salt pork to five pounds of beef is a
+pretty good proportion.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span>
+<p>Then take a saucepan of a proper size for the piece of meat; it must not
+be too large or too small, but large enough to hold the meat without
+being obliged to bend or fold it; a crockery pan is certainly the best
+for that purpose, and one that will go easily in the oven.</p>
+
+<p>Put in the saucepan, for six pounds of beef, half a calf's foot, or a
+veal-bone if more handy, two ounces of butter, half a handful of parsley
+(cives, if handy), two bay-leaves, a clove of garlic, a sprig of thyme,
+two onions, with a clove stuck in each, salt, pepper, half a carrot cut
+in slices, the rind of the salt pork you have used, and what you may
+have left of strips; the whole well spread on the bottom of the pan,
+then the piece of meat over, cover the pan, set on a rather sharp fire
+and after about ten minutes add half a gill of water; keep the pan
+covered to the end.</p>
+
+<p>After another ten or fifteen minutes, add about one pint of cold water,
+turn the meat over, and after about ten minutes more, place the pan in
+the oven, a rather slow oven (a little above 220 degrees Fahr.), for
+five or six hours. Dish the meat, skim off the fat on the top of the
+gravy, give one boil and turn it over the meat and carrots through a
+strainer.</p>
+
+<p>When the meat is dished; put some carrots <i>au jus</i> all around; serve
+warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;Serve it whole or in slices, with meat jelly, or with a sharp
+sauce; such as <i>piquante, ravigote</i>, etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STEWED.</h4>
+
+<p>Stewed beef is called also <i>daube</i> or <i>braised</i> beef, but it is the
+same.</p>
+
+<p>It may be larded as beef <i>&agrave; la mode</i>, or not; it may be put whole in the
+pan or in large dice, according to taste.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span>
+<p>The following is for five or six pounds of rump or even a piece of ribs:</p>
+
+<p>Put in a saucepan two ounces of salt pork cut in dice, four sprigs of
+parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, a clove of garlic, a sprig of
+sweet basil, two cloves, three carrots cut in pieces, salt, and pepper;
+put the piece of beef on the whole, wet with a glass of broth, and one
+of white wine (a liquor-glass of French brandy may also be added);
+season with six or eight small onions; place in a moderately heated
+oven, put paste around the cover to keep it air-tight; simmer about six
+hours; dish the meat with the onions and carrots around it, strain the
+gravy on the whole, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Almost any piece of beef may be cooked in the same way, and will be
+found good, wholesome, and economical.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ROASTED.</h4>
+
+<p><i>How to improve it.</i>&mdash;Put the meat in a tureen, with four tablespoonfuls
+of sweet-oil, salt, pepper, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, four
+onions cut in slices, two bay-leaves, and the juice of half a lemon; put
+half of all the above under the meat, and half on it; cover, and leave
+thus two days in winter, and about eighteen hours in summer.</p>
+
+<p>It certainly improves the meat and makes it more tender. The tenderloin
+may be improved as well as any other piece.</p>
+
+<p>Then place the meat on the spit before and near a very sharp fire. Baste
+often with the seasonings, if you have improved the meat; or with a
+little melted butter, if you have not. Continue basting with what is in
+the dripping-pan.</p>
+
+<p>Beef must be placed as near the fire as possible, without burning it,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span>
+however; and then, as soon as a coating or crust is formed all around,
+remove it by degrees. Remember that the quicker the crust is formed, the
+more juicy and tender the meat.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing at all is added to form that kind of crust. It is formed by the
+osmazome of the meat, attracted by the heat, and coming in contact with
+the air while revolving.</p>
+
+<p>Beef is more juicy when rather underdone; if good, when cut, it has a
+pinky color inside.</p>
+
+<p>Roast beef may be served with the drippings only, after being strained
+and the fat removed.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be served in the following ways:</p>
+
+<p><i>With Potatoes.</i>&mdash;Fried potatoes may be served all around the meat, or
+on a separate dish. Also, potato croquettes.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Horse-radish.</i>&mdash;Grate horse-radish, mix it with the drippings, and
+serve in a boat.</p>
+
+<p><i>With a Garniture.</i>&mdash;Mix a liver garniture with the gravy, add
+lemon-juice, place all around the meat, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Truffles.</i>&mdash;Place the garniture of truffles on and around the
+meat, turn the drippings on the whole, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Tomatoes.</i>&mdash;Surround the meat with stuffed tomatoes, strain the
+gravy on the whole, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>On Pur&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;Spread either of the following <i>pur&eacute;es</i> on the dish, place
+the meat over it, strain the drippings on the whole; and serve:</p>
+
+<p><i>Pur&eacute;es</i> of <i>asparagus</i>, <i>beans</i>, <i>cauliflowers</i>, <i>celery</i>, <i>Lima
+beans</i>, <i>onions</i>, <i>green peas</i>, <i>potatoes</i>, and <i>mushrooms</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cabbage.</i>&mdash;Surround the meat with Brussels cabbages, prepared <i>au
+jus</i>; strain the drippings on the whole, and serve.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Quenelles.</i>&mdash;Place twelve quenelles of chicken around the meat,
+and serve with the drippings.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TO DECORATE.</h4>
+
+<p>When served in any way as described above, one or two or more skewers
+may be run through craw-fish and a slice of truffle, and stuck in the
+meat, or through sweetbreads <i>au jus</i>, and slices of truffles. It makes
+a beautiful and good decoration.</p>
+
+<p>The skewers may also be run through chicken-combs, prepared as for
+<i>farce</i>; first through a comb, then through a slice of truffle, through
+a sweetbread, again through a slice of truffle, then through a
+craw-fish, and lastly a slice of truffle, or the reverse, according to
+fancy.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Rice.</i>&mdash;It is surrounded with rice croquettes, the drippings
+strained over the whole.</p>
+
+<p>We could put down some twenty or more other ways, but any one with an
+ordinary amount of natural capacity can do it, by varying the
+<i>garnitures</i>, <i>pur&eacute;es</i>, <i>decorations</i>, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Cold roast-beef is prepared like boiled beef.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BAKED.</h4>
+
+<p>Place the meat in a bake-pan, with cold water about a quarter of an inch
+deep; spread salt, pepper, and a little butter on the meat, cover it
+with a piece of buttered paper; baste often over the paper, lest it
+should burn; keep the bottom of the pan covered with juice; if the water
+and juice are absorbed, add a little cold water and continue basting;
+turn over two or three times, but keep the paper on the top; if it is
+burnt, put on another piece. The paper keeps the top of the meat moist,
+and prevents it from burning or drying.</p>
+
+<p>When done, it is served like roasted beef.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span>
+<h4>FILLET.</h4>
+
+<p>The tenderloin and even the sirloin are sometimes called, or rather
+known, under the name of fillet, when cooked. It comes from the French
+<i>filet</i>&mdash;tenderloin.</p>
+
+<p>Sirloin means surloin; like stock and several others, sirloin is purely
+English. The surloin is the upper part of the loin, as its prefix
+indicates; it is <i>surlonge</i> in French.</p>
+
+<p>A fillet is generally larded with salt pork by means of a small brass
+larding-needle; the salt pork cut in strips to fit the needle (<i>see</i>
+<span class="smcap">Larding</span>).</p>
+
+<p>If you use a tenderloin, trim off the fat. If it is a piece of ribs,
+prepared fillet-like, shape it like a fillet as near as possible; the
+rest is used as directed above.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of ribs is certainly cheaper, and can be had at any time, while
+the other is as difficult to procure as it is dear.</p>
+
+<p><i>To lard it.</i>&mdash;Have a towel in your left hand and place the meat over
+it, the most flat and smooth side up, holding it so that the upper part
+will present a somewhat convex surface, and commence larding at either
+end and finishing at the other, in this way:</p>
+
+<p>Run the needle through the upper part of the convex surface, commencing
+at about a quarter of an inch from the edge of one side, running through
+the meat a distance of about one inch and a half, about half an inch in
+depth at the middle, and the strip of salt pork sticking out at both
+ends; that is, where the needle was introduced into the meat, and where
+it came out of it. Repeat this till you have a row of strips across the
+meat, the strips being about one-third of an inch apart.</p>
+
+<p>Lard row after row in the same way, and till the whole flat side is
+covered; the ends of the strips of pork sticking out of each row being
+intermingled.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[169]</a></span>
+<p><i>To cook it.</i>&mdash;It may be roasted or baked exactly in the same way as
+directed above for roast and baked beef. It may also be improved in the
+same way.</p>
+
+<p>When cooked in either of the two above ways, it is served with its gravy
+only, or&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>
+With fried potatoes.<br />
+With potato coquettes.<br />
+With truffles.<br />
+With tomatoes.<br />
+With quenelles.<br />
+With Madeira-sauce.<br />
+With green peas.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The same as roast or baked beef above. It may also be decorated in the
+same way.</p>
+
+<p>A fillet is also cooked exactly like beef <i>&agrave; la mode</i>, with the
+exception that it does not require as long; for a large one, it requires
+only about three hours.</p>
+
+<p>When cooked thus, it is served with its gravy strained, and decorated
+with skewers, as above.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Macaroni.</i>&mdash;While the fillet is cooking, prepare a pound of
+macaroni au jus, and serve the fillet on the macaroni spread on a dish;
+the gravy of the fillet being mixed with the macaroni when both are
+done.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fillet &agrave; la Brillat-Savarin.</i>&mdash;Cook it in a pan as above, and serve it
+decorated with sweetbreads and slices of truffles, as described for
+roast-beef, and with a Champagne-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Chateaubriand.</i>&mdash;This is prepared and served like the preceding
+one, with a <i>Madeira</i> instead of a <i>Champagne</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;When cooked in a pan as directed above, cook mushrooms about
+ten minutes in the gravy, and serve mushrooms and gravy all around the
+meat.</p>
+
+<p>A fillet <i>saut&eacute;</i> is always made with a tenderloin.</p>
+
+<p>As is seen by the above receipts, all the good pieces of beef may be
+prepared in the ways described, ribs as well as other pieces, and from
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[170]</a></span>
+the plainest to the most <i>recherch&eacute;</i> way, from the cheapest to the most
+costly manner.</p>
+
+<p>Several names are given to the different ways we have described, such as
+fillet <i>financi&egrave;re</i> (fillet served with a ragout of chicken-combs),
+fillet Richelieu (fillet with half a dozen skewers), etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>En Bellevue.</i>&mdash;This is the best way to serve it cold. It may be served
+whole, or part of it, that is, what is left from the preceding dinner.
+For a supper or lunch, it is the most handy dish, as it can be prepared
+in advance. Make some meat jelly or calf's-foot jelly, put a thickness
+of about three-quarters of an inch of it in a tin dish or mould, large
+enough to hold the fillet; then place on ice to cool, and when congealed
+and firm enough, place the fillet on it, the larded side downward; fill
+now with jelly till the fillet is covered, and have a thickness of about
+three-quarters of an inch above it.</p>
+
+<p>The fillet must not touch the sides of the mould, but be perfectly
+enveloped in jelly. If the thickness of jelly is even on both sides and
+all around, it is much more sightly. When the jelly is perfectly
+congealed and firm, place a dish over the mould, turn upside down, and
+remove it. Serve as it is.</p>
+
+<p>As a tenderloin is very expensive and rather difficult to get, buy a
+fine piece of ribs, cut the fleshy part of the shape of a tenderloin,
+and prepare it as directed above; it makes an excellent and sightly
+dish. The bony part with the rest of the flesh is used to make broth.</p>
+
+
+<h4>RIBS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>With Vinegar.</i>&mdash;Put two tablespoonfuls of fat in a saucepan, and set it
+on the fire; when melted, put the beef in; say a piece of three pounds,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[171]</a></span>
+from the round, rump, or rib-piece; brown it on every side; add one gill
+of vinegar, salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper, cover the pan, and keep
+on a rather sharp fire for fifteen minutes; then add one carrot and one
+onion, both sliced, a stalk of thyme, three cloves, two bay-leaves, and
+six pepper-corns, a pint of broth, and same of water; boil gently till
+done; dish the meat, strain the sauce over it, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Ribs may also be broiled like steaks, and served either with a <i>ma&icirc;tre
+d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, mushrooms, potatoes, or water-cress. The low cuts of beef are
+generally used to make broth, or stewed.</p>
+
+
+<h4>STEAKS.</h4>
+
+<p>The best piece of beef for a steak is the tenderloin.</p>
+
+<p>What is called a porter-house steak is the tenderloin, sirloin, and
+other surrounding parts cut in slices.</p>
+
+<p>A steak should never be less than three-quarters of an inch in
+thickness.</p>
+
+<p>It should always be broiled; it is inferior in taste and flavor when
+cooked in a pan (<i>saut&eacute;</i>), or other utensil, but many persons cook it
+so, not having the necessary fire or utensil to broil; broiled or
+<i>saut&eacute;</i>, it is served alike.</p>
+
+<p>The same rules are applied to steaks of venison, pork, etc.;
+turtle-steaks are also prepared like beef-steaks.</p>
+
+<p>A good steak does not need any pounding; the object of pounding a steak
+is to break its fibres. A pounded steak may appear or taste more tender
+to a person not knowing or never having tasted a good steak, but an
+experienced palate cannot be deceived.</p>
+
+<p>It is better to broil before than over the fire. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Broiling</span>.)</p>
+
+<p>To cook a steak in an oven or drum, or any other badly-invented machine
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[172]</a></span>
+or contrivance, is not to broil it, but to spoil it.</p>
+
+<p><i>To make tender.</i>&mdash;When cut, trimmed, salted, and peppered, put them in
+a bowl, and sprinkle some sweet-oil or melted butter over them; turn
+them over in the bowl every two or three hours for from six to twelve
+hours.</p>
+
+<p><i>To cut and prepare.</i>&mdash;Cut the meat in round or oval slices, as even as
+possible, of any size, about one inch in thickness, and trim off the
+fibres and thin skin that may be around. Do not cut off the fat, but
+flatten a little each slice with a chopper.</p>
+
+<p><i>To broil.</i>&mdash;when the steaks are cut and prepared as directed, they are
+slightly greased on both sides with lard or butter (if they have not
+been in a bowl with oil or butter before cooking them), placed on a
+warmed gridiron, set before or on a sharp fire, turned over once or
+twice, and taken off when rather underdone. Salt and pepper them, dish,
+spread a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> over them, and serve very warm.</p>
+
+<p>Cooks and epicures differ about the turning over of steaks; also about
+broiling them with or without salt; some say that they must not be
+turned over twice, others are of opinion that they must be turned over
+two or three, and even more times; some say that they must be salted and
+peppered before broiling, others say they must not; we have tried the
+two ways many times, and did not find any difference; if there is any
+difference at all, it is in the quality of the meat, or in the person's
+taste, or in the cook's care.</p>
+
+<p>When the steak is served as above, place some fried potatoes all around,
+and serve hot. Instead of fried potatoes, put some water-cress all
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[173]</a></span>
+around, add a few drops of vinegar, and serve. The water-cress is to be
+put on raw and cold.</p>
+
+<p>When the steak is dished, spread some anchovy-butter on it instead of a
+<i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, and serve warm also. It may also be served with
+lobster-butter instead of a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>. Steaks are also served
+with horse-radish butter, and surrounded with fried or <i>souffl&eacute;</i>
+potatoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>With a Tomato-Sauce.</i>&mdash;Broil and serve the steak as directed above, and
+serve it with a tomato-sauce instead of a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With a Poivrade or Piquante Sauce.</i>&mdash;Broil and serve with a <i>poivrade</i>
+or <i>piquante</i> sauce, instead of a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Egg.</i>&mdash;When the steaks are cut and prepared as directed, dip them
+in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, then broil, and serve them
+with either a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> or tomato-sauce, or with potatoes, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Truffles.</i>&mdash;Set a saucepan on the fire with one ounce of butter in
+it; as soon as melted add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and, when
+turning brown, add also about a gill of broth; stir again for five or
+six minutes, when mix three or four tablespoonfuls of good gravy with
+the rest; boil gently ten minutes, take from the fire; slice two or
+three truffles, mix them with the rest; add salt and pepper to taste;
+give one boil, turn over the steak which you have broiled as directed,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for truffles in every particular, except
+that you use mushrooms.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fancy Steak.</i>&mdash;Cut the steak two or three inches thick, butter slightly
+both sides, lay it on a gridiron well greased and warmed; set it on a
+moderate fire and broil it well; to cook it through it must be turned
+over many times, on account of its thickness. Serve like another steak,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[174]</a></span>
+with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, potatoes, or water-cress, etc.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BOILED BEEF.</h4>
+
+<p>This is understood to be beef that has been used to make broth&mdash;a
+rump-piece or a rib-piece, boned and tied with twine before cooking it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0174.jpg" width="579" height="362" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+<h4><i>a,</i> skewer; <i>b,</i> carrot; <i>c,</i> turnip; <i>d,</i> beef; <i>e,</i> carrots and turnips.</h4>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[175]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Carrots and Turnips.</i>&mdash;Remove the twine, and place the piece of
+beef on the middle of a dish, with carrots and turnips, cut with a
+fruit-corer, prepared <i>au jus</i> or glazed, and arranged all around it;
+also, some skewers run through pieces of carrot and turnip, and then
+stuck in the piece of beef. (See cut p. <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.) Serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Brussels Cabbage, or Sprouts.</i>&mdash;Serve the beef as above,
+surrounded with sprouts <i>au jus</i>, and also ornamented with skewers run
+through sprouts, with a piece of turnip between each.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Bourgeoise.</i>&mdash;Serve the piece of beef warm, decorated if handy, and
+surrounded with fried potatoes cut with a vegetable spoon or in fillets,
+and gravy spread over the whole.</p>
+
+<p>If not decorated, a few sprigs of parsley may be spread on the beef.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Onions.</i>&mdash;Serve the beef as above, and surround it with glazed
+onions.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Celery.</i>&mdash;When served as above, the meat is surrounded with a
+<i>pur&eacute;e</i> of celery.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cauliflowers.</i>&mdash;Serve warm, with a garniture of cauliflowers all
+around. It may be decorated with skewers.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Chestnuts.</i>&mdash;Glaze chestnuts as for dessert; run the skewers
+through a chestnut first, then through a fried potato, and then through
+a slice of carrot, and stick one at each end of the piece of beef; put
+chestnuts all around, spread some gravy over the whole, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Croquettes.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for <i>croquettes</i> of chicken.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hollandaise.</i>&mdash;Cut the meat in fillets and put it in a saucepan, with
+about two ounces of fat or butter to a pound of meat; set on the fire
+and stir for ten minutes. Then add a tablespoonful of flour and stir
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[176]</a></span>
+about one minute, with warm water enough to half cover the meat, and
+boil about five minutes, stirring now and then.</p>
+
+<p>Mix together in a bowl two yolks of eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and
+two or three tablespoonfuls of the sauce from the saucepan in which the
+beef is; turn the mixture into the saucepan, stir and mix, add salt and
+pepper to taste, give one boil, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Cut the meat in slices about one inch in thickness, broil,
+and serve like steaks.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Gratin.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
+when melted sprinkle into it two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, two or
+three mushrooms chopped, a teaspoonful of chopped onions, same of
+parsley, a pinch of allspice, salt, and pepper; stir for about two
+minutes, add a little broth to make the whole rather liquid. Cut one
+pound of boiled beef in slices, place them in a tin or silver dish, turn
+the mixture over them, dust with bread-crumbs; put half a dozen pieces
+of butter here and there on the top, and bake for about fifteen minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Take from the oven when done, add a few drops of lemon juice all over,
+and serve warm in the dish in which it was baked.</p>
+
+<p>With a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, <i>piquante</i>, <i>Mayonnaise</i>, <i>Robert</i>, <i>ravigote</i>,
+<i>Tartar</i>, or <i>tomato</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p>Cut it in slices, place them on a dish, spread on them some chopped
+parsley and slices of pickled cucumbers, and send thus to the table,
+with either of the above sauces in a saucer to be used with it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>IN MIROTON.</h4>
+
+<p>Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan (this is for about
+two pounds), and set it on the fire; when melted, put in it four
+middling-sized onions, cut in slices when nearly cooked, sprinkle on
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[177]</a></span>
+them a pinch of flour, and stir till it takes a golden color; then add
+half a glass of white wine, and as much of broth, also salt, pepper, and
+a little grated nutmeg; boil until well cooked, and till the sauce is
+reduced; then add the boiled beef, cut in slices, and leave it fifteen
+minutes; dish it, pour on a few drops of vinegar, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hushed.</i>&mdash;Proceed exactly as for <i>miroton</i>, except that the beef is cut
+in strips or chopped, and that no wine is used.</p>
+
+
+<h4>IN SALAD.</h4>
+
+<p>Cut it in very thin and short slices, and place them on a dish with
+chopped parsley; put in a saucer sweet-oil and vinegar, according to the
+quantity of beef you have, two tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar,
+salt, pepper, and some mustard; beat the whole a little, pour on the
+slices, and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CORNED BEEF.</h4>
+
+<p>Corned beef is generally boiled. Soak the corned beef in cold water for
+some time, according to how salt it is.</p>
+
+<p>Set it on the fire, covered with cold water, and boil gently till done.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cabbage.</i>&mdash;Blanch the cabbage for about five minutes, and drain.
+Then put it to cook with the corned beef when the latter is about half
+done; serve both on the same dish, or separately, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p>Corned beef, when boiled as above, without cabbage, can be served and
+decorated, in every way, like boiled beef. It certainly makes sightly as
+well as good dishes for a family dinner.</p>
+
+<p>A piece of corned beef, surrounded with a garniture as we have
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[178]</a></span>
+described above, decorated with skewers, is very often served as a
+<i>relev&eacute;</i> at an extra dinner.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold Corned Beef.</i>&mdash;A whole piece, or part of it, may be served <i>en
+Bellevue</i>, the same as a <i>fillet en Bellevue</i>; it is also excellent.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TONGUE.</h4>
+
+<p>Clean and blanch it for about ten minutes&mdash;till the white skin can be
+easily removed. After ten minutes boiling, try if it comes off; if not,
+boil a little longer, then skin it well.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;When skinned, put it in your soup-kettle with the beef,
+etc., to make broth, and leave it till done. When boiled, the tongue may
+be served and decorated exactly the same as boiled beef, in every way.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Cut square fillets of bacon, which dredge in a mixture of
+chopped parsley, cives, salt, pepper, and a little allspice; lard the
+tongue with the fillets. Put in a crockery stewpan two ounces of bacon
+cut in dice, four sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, one of sweet basil,
+two bay-leaves, a clove of garlic, two cloves, two carrots cut in
+pieces, four small onions, salt, and pepper; lay the tongue on the
+whole, wet with half a glass of white wine and a glass of broth; set on
+a moderate fire, and simmer about five hours&mdash;keep it well covered; then
+put the tongue on a dish, strain the sauce on it, and serve. It is a
+delicious dish.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be served with vegetables around, or with tomato-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When prepared as above directed, put it on the fire with
+the same seasonings as the preceding one; simmer four hours and take
+from the fire; put the tongue on a dish and let it cool, then place it
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[179]</a></span>
+on the spit before a good fire, and finish the cooking; serve it warm
+with an oil, or <i>piquante</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p>If any is left of either of the two, put in a pan the next day, wet with
+a little broth, set on the fire, and when warm serve it on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i>; do
+not allow it to boil.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BRAIN.</h4>
+
+<p>Soak it in lukewarm water and clean well, so as to have it free from
+blood, fibres, and thin skin; then soak it again in cold water for
+twelve hours in winter and six in summer. Put in a crockery stewpan one
+ounce of bacon cut in slices, one carrot cut in pieces, two sprigs of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, four small onions cut in
+slices, a teaspoonful of chopped cives, salt, pepper, a pint of white
+wine, as much of broth, and then the brain; set on a moderate fire for
+half an hour and take it off; dish the brain and place it in a warm
+place; then strain the sauce, put it back on the fire with the brain in
+it, add two or three mushrooms cut in pieces, leave on the fire from ten
+to fifteen minutes, and serve it, parted in two, with fried parsley
+around.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When the brain is cleaned and prepared as above, cut it
+in eight pieces. Mix well together a little flour, chopped parsley and
+cives, also a pinch of allspice; roll the pieces of brain in it, so as
+to allow the mixture to adhere to them; have some butter in a frying-pan
+on the fire, and when hot put the pieces of brain in it; fry gently, and
+serve with fried parsley around.</p>
+
+
+<h4>HEART.</h4>
+
+<p>Soak it in lukewarm water for two hours, free it from blood and skin,
+drain and wipe dry; then stuff it with sausage-meat, to which you have
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[180]</a></span>
+added three or four onions chopped fine, put it in a rather quick oven,
+or on the spit before a good fire (if on the spit, envelop it with
+buttered paper), basting from time to time; it takes about an hour and a
+half to cook a middling-sized one; serve it with a <i>vinaigrette</i>,
+<i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, or <i>ravigote</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be fried with butter, and cut in slices, but it is not as
+good as in the above way; it generally becomes hard in frying.</p>
+
+
+<h4>KIDNEYS.</h4>
+
+<p>First split the kidneys in four pieces, trim off as carefully as
+possible the sinews and fat that are inside, then cut in small pieces.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;The quicker this is done the better the kidney. For a whole
+one put about two ounces of butter in a frying-pan and set it on a very
+sharp fire, toss it round so as to melt the butter as fast as possible,
+but without allowing it to blacken; as soon as melted, turn the cut
+kidney in, stir now and then with a wooden spoon for about three
+minutes, then add a tablespoonful of flour, stir again the same as
+before for about one minute, when add a gill of white wine and about one
+of broth; stir again now and then till the kidney is rather underdone,
+and serve immediately.</p>
+
+<p>If the kidney is allowed to boil till perfectly done, it will very
+seldom be tender.</p>
+
+<p>It may be done with water instead of wine and broth; in that case, add a
+few drops of lemon-juice just before serving it.</p>
+
+<p>Prepare and serve it also as calf's-kidney, in every way as directed for
+the same.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LIVER.</h4>
+
+<p>Cut the liver in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, sprinkle on
+them salt and pepper, place them on a gridiron, and set on a sharp
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[181]</a></span>
+fire; turn over only once, and serve rather underdone, with butter and
+chopped parsley, kneaded together and spread between the slices.</p>
+
+<p>A few drops of lemon-juice may be added.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When the liver is cut in slices, as above, put a piece
+of butter in a frying-pan on the fire, and when melted, lay the slices
+in; turn over only once, then serve, with salt, pepper, vinegar, and
+chopped parsley.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TAIL.</h4>
+
+<p>Cut the tail at the joint, so as to make as many pieces as there are
+joints; throw the pieces in boiling water for fifteen minutes, and drain
+them. When cold and dry, put them in a saucepan with a bay-leaf, two
+onions, with a clove stuck in each, two sprigs of parsley, and one of
+thyme, a clove of garlic, salt, pepper, half a wine-glass of white wine,
+and a few thin slices of salt pork; cover with broth or water, and set
+on a moderate fire for two hours. Dish the pieces, strain the sauce on
+them, and serve with a garniture of cabbage, or with any <i>pur&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TRIPE.</h4>
+
+<p><i>How to clean and prepare.</i>&mdash;Scrape and wash it well several times in
+boiling water, changing the water every time, then put in very cold
+water for about twelve hours, changing the water two or three times;
+place it in a pan, cover it with cold water; season with parsley, cives,
+onions, one or two cloves of garlic, cloves, salt, and pepper; boil
+gently five hours, take out and drain.</p>
+
+<p>In case the water should boil away, add more.</p>
+
+<p>You may save all the trouble of cleaning and preparing, by buying it
+ready prepared, as it is generally sold in cities.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[182]</a></span>
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;When prepared, dip it in lukewarm butter, roll in
+bread-crumbs, place on a gridiron, and set it on a moderate fire; turn
+over as many times as is necessary to broil it well, and serve with a
+<i>vinaigrette</i>, <i>piquante</i>, or Tartar sauce; also with a tomato-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Put in a stewpan two ounces of salt pork, cut in dice, three
+carrots cut in slices, eight small onions, four cloves, two bay-leaves,
+two cloves of garlic, a piece of nutmeg, four sprigs of parsley, two of
+thyme, a dozen stalks of cives, six pepper-corns, the fourth part of an
+ox-foot cut in four pieces, salt, pepper, about two ounces of ham cut in
+dice, then three pounds of double tripe on the whole; spread two ounces
+of fat bacon cut in thin slices on the top; wet with half white wine and
+half water, or water only if you choose; put the cover on, and if not
+air-tight, put some paste around; set in a slow oven for six hours, then
+take the tripe out, strain the sauce, skim off the fat when cool, then
+put the sauce and tripe again in your pan, warm well, and serve in
+crockery plates or bowls placed on chafing-dishes, as it is necessary to
+keep it warm while eating. It is good with water only, but better with
+half wine. This is also called <i>&agrave; la mode de Caen</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Poulette.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared as directed, cut one pound of
+tripe in strips about one and a half inches broad, then cut again
+contrariwise, so as to make small fillets. Put one ounce of butter in a
+saucepan with half a tablespoonful of flour, and mix cold; add two gills
+of water, mix again, set on the fire, stir now and then, give one boil,
+put the tripe in, salt and pepper to taste; boil two minutes and dish
+the whole; put a teaspoonful of chopped parsley all over, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Aux Fines Herbes.</i>&mdash;Broil the tripe, and serve it with sauce <i>fines
+herbes</i>.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[183]</a></span>
+<p>Tripe may be bought pickled; it is then served at breakfast and lunch.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SMOKED BEEF'S TONGUE.</h4>
+
+<p>Soak the smoked tongue in cold water for at least three hours, change
+the water once or twice during the process. Then take off the thin skin
+or strip around if there is any; put the tongue in a saucepan with two
+sprigs of thyme, two of parsley, a bay-leaf, two cloves, six small
+onions, and a clove of garlic; fill the pan with cold water, and let
+simmer about six hours. If the water is boiling away, add more. Take
+from the fire, let cool as it is, then take it out of the water; clean
+it, let dry, and serve it when cold.</p>
+
+<p>Cut the tongue, when prepared as above, either in slices or in strips,
+and use for sandwiches, or serve it whole, with a cucumber, <i>piquante</i>,
+<i>poivrade</i>, or tomato sauce, at breakfast or lunch. It may also be
+served in <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p>When prepared as directed above, serve it as a fillet of beef <i>en
+Bellevue</i>, for supper, lunch, or breakfast. It makes a fine and
+delicious dish.</p>
+
+<p>It is used also to stuff boned turkeys and other birds, as directed in
+those receipts; always boil it as directed above, before using it.</p>
+
+<p>When served with any of the above sauces, it may be decorated with
+skewers the same as boiled beef.</p>
+
+<p><i>Larded.</i>&mdash;When boiled, lard it with salt pork, and bake it for about
+one hour in a moderately heated oven, and serve it with the same sauces
+as above.</p>
+
+<p>Cut in slices and served with parsley, it is a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[184]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="MUTTON" id="MUTTON"></a>MUTTON.</h2>
+
+<h4>HOW TO SELECT.</h4>
+
+
+<p>You may be sure that mutton is good when the flesh is rather black, and
+the fat white; if the fat breaks easily, it is young.</p>
+
+<p>The wether is much superior to the ewe.</p>
+
+<p>You will know if a leg of mutton comes from a wether, if there is a
+large and hard piece of fat on one side at the larger and upper end; if
+from a ewe, that part is merely a kind of skin, with a little fat on it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ROASTED.</h4>
+
+<p>A piece of mutton to roast must not be too fresh, it is much more tender
+when the meat is rather seasoned, but not tainted, or what is sometimes
+called "high." When on the spit, place it near the fire, baste
+immediately with a little melted butter, and then with the drippings. As
+soon as you notice that a kind of crust or coating has formed around the
+piece of meat, remove it a little from the fire by degrees; and continue
+basting till done. The quicker the crust is formed, though without
+burning the meat, the more juicy and tender it will be.</p>
+
+<p>Roast mutton, like roast beef, is better served rather underdone, but
+should be a little more done than beef. When properly roasted, the meat,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[185]</a></span>
+whatever piece it may be, either a loin or saddle, a leg, shoulder, or
+a breast, may be served with its gravy only; that is, with what is in
+the dripping-pan after having removed all the fat, also on a <i>soubise</i>
+or on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of sorrel. The above pieces may also be served in the
+following ways:</p>
+
+<p><i>With Potatoes.</i>&mdash;When dished, surround the meat with potatoes, either
+fried, mashed, or in <i>croquettes</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Quenelles.</i>&mdash;Dish the meat, place half a dozen <i>quenelles</i> around
+it, and decorate it with skewers which you have run through a <i>quenelle</i>
+and then through a craw-fish and stuck in the meat.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Carrots.</i>&mdash;When dished, put all around the meat carrots <i>au jus</i>,
+or glazed and cut with a vegetable spoon.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Spinach.</i>&mdash;Spinach <i>au jus</i> when done is spread on the dish, the
+meat is put on it, and served warm. Do the same with a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of
+cauliflowers.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BAKED.</h4>
+
+<p>All the above pieces are baked as well as roasted; and when done, served
+exactly in the same and every way as when roasted.</p>
+
+<p>Put the meat in a baking-pan with a little butter spread over it; cover
+the bottom of the pan with cold water, then put in a quick oven. After
+it has been in the oven for about fifteen minutes, baste and place a
+piece of buttered paper on the top of the meat. If the bottom of the pan
+is getting dry, add a little more water, but it is seldom the case
+except with inferior meat. When you see rather too much fat in the pan,
+take from the oven, turn the fat off, put cold water instead, and put
+back in the oven to finish the cooking. If the paper burns, put on
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[186]</a></span>
+another piece; but by basting often over the paper, it will remain
+pretty long before burning.</p>
+
+<p>With a small knife or a skewer you ascertain when done enough or to your
+liking; never cook by guess or by hearsay; the oven may be quicker one
+day than another, or slower; the meat may be more tender, or more hard;
+remember that if you cook by guess (we mean, to put down, as a matter of
+course, that it takes so many hours, or so many minutes, to bake this or
+that), and stick to it, you will fail nine times out of ten. When done,
+serve as directed above.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Croquettes.</i>&mdash;Make and serve as chicken <i>croquettes</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Haricot or Ragout.</i>&mdash;Take a neck or breast piece of mutton, which
+cut in pieces about two inches long and one broad. Put them in a
+saucepan (say three pounds) with two ounces of butter, set on the fire
+and stir occasionally till turning rather brown, then add a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir for one minute, cover with cold water, add
+one onion whole, salt, a bunch of seasonings composed of four sprigs of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove, one clove of garlic,
+chopped fine. Boil gently till about two-thirds done, stirring now and
+then; add potatoes, peeled, quartered, and cut, as far as possible, of
+the shape of a carpel of orange. The proportion is, about as many pieces
+of potatoes as of meat. Boil again gently till done, place the pieces of
+meat in the middle of the dish, the potatoes around, the juice or sauce
+over the whole, and serve. Skim off the fat, if any, before turning the
+sauce over the rest.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BREAST BOILED.</h4>
+
+<p>Put the breast entire in a saucepan, with a sprig of thyme, two of
+parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, salt, and pepper, cover with water, set
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[187]</a></span>
+on the fire, boil gently till cooked, and then drain. Put in a
+frying-pan three tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley, salt, and pepper; when hot lay the breast in and fry it all
+around for five minutes; then take it off, roll it in bread-crumbs,
+place it on a gridiron, and set on a good fire for five minutes; turn it
+over once only, then serve it with a <i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, or tomato
+sauce. It may also be served on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of sorrel.</p>
+
+
+<h4>NECK BROILED.</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare and serve exactly the same as a breast broiled.</p>
+
+<p>A breast or a neck piece broiled may be served on a <i>soubise</i>. It may
+also be served with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> or mushroom sauce, also with a
+<i>piquante</i> or any other sharp sauce.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CHOPS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Trim and flatten the chops with a chopper, sprinkle salt and
+pepper on both sides, dip them in melted butter, place them on a
+gridiron, and set on a sharp fire, turn over two or three times to broil
+properly, and when done, serve them around a dish, one lapping over the
+other, etc., and serve with the gravy. It takes about twelve minutes to
+cook with a good fire.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When trimmed and flattened, dip them in beaten egg, roll
+them in bread-crumbs and broil, either as they are, or enveloped in
+buttered paper, and serve them with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;When trimmed and flattened, fry them with a little butter on
+both sides; then take the chops from the pan and put them in a warm
+place. Leave in the pan only a tablespoonful of fat, add to it three
+times as much broth, a teaspoonful of parsley and green onions, two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[188]</a></span>
+shallots, two pickled cucumbers, all chopped fine, and a pinch of
+allspice; give one boil, pour the whole on the chops, also the juice of
+half a lemon, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, with Vegetables.</i>&mdash;Put in a frying-pan a piece of butter the
+size of two walnuts for four chops, set on a good fire, and when hot lay
+the chops in, after having flattened them with a chopper, and having
+sprinkled salt and pepper on both sides; add a clove, and a teaspoonful
+of chopped parsley and green onions; leave thus five minutes, turn over
+once or twice; then add also half a wine-glass of broth, same of white
+wine, and finish the cooking. Take the chops off the pan and put them in
+a warm place. Boil the sauce in the pan ten minutes, turn it on the
+chops, put a garniture of vegetables around, and serve. Throw away the
+clove just before serving.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Have a piece of butter the size of an egg for eight
+chops in a crockery vessel, and set it on a good fire; when melted take
+from the fire, lay the chops in, after having flattened them; then cover
+them with a sheet of buttered paper; place the vessel in a rather hot
+oven, and when cooked serve them on a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, <i>proven&ccedil;ale</i>, or
+tomato sauce. They may also be served on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of sorrel, or one of
+potatoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, in Papillote.</i>&mdash;Cut the chops rather thin, beat them gently
+and flatten them; then proceed as for veal cutlets in <i>papillotes</i> in
+every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Financi&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;Broil the chops, either with or without egg and crumbs,
+and serve them with a <i>financi&egrave;re</i> garniture.</p>
+
+<p><i>Soubise.</i>&mdash;The chops are either broiled or fried; either broiled only
+dipped in lukewarm butter or in beaten egg and crumbs and then served on
+a <i>soubise</i>. A little lemon-juice may be added when they are on the
+dish.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[189]</a></span>
+<p><i>Jardini&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;Cut two carrots and two turnips with a vegetable spoon
+and set on the fire with cold water and salt; boil gently till tender,
+and drain. Boil also in the same way, in another pan and till tender,
+two tablespoonfuls of green peas, or string-beans cut in pieces, and
+drain also. Then put carrots, turnips, peas, or beans, back on the fire,
+in the same pan with a little gravy and broth, enough to cover them,
+salt, and pepper; boil gently five minutes; then put the chops in after
+being fried as directed below; boil another five minutes; take from the
+fire, place the chops around the dish, one lapping over the other, and
+so that an empty place is left in the middle; turn the carrots, turnips,
+and peas, with the sauce in that empty place, and serve. Salt and pepper
+the chops on both sides; fry them in a little butter till about
+three-quarters done; then take off and put with the vegetables as
+directed above. They may be broiled instead of fried, which is better.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Princesse.</i>&mdash;Trim the chops as usual and salt and pepper both
+sides. Chop very fine a piece of lean veal about half a pound for six or
+eight chops, according to size, then pound it and mix it with half a
+teaspoonful of flour, a pinch of nutmeg, salt, pepper, a yolk of egg,
+two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs and one ounce of butter. If too firm
+the butter must be melted so as to mix better. Put the mixture in a
+saucepan, set on a good fire, stir for ten minutes, and take off. Then
+grease the paste-board slightly with butter, put a teaspoonful of the
+mixture here and there on it, roll and make small balls of it, drop them
+in boiling broth or water, boiling about fifteen minutes, and take off
+with a skimmer. Dip the chops in melted butter, then in beaten eggs, and
+roll in bread-crumbs; fry them with a little butter. Fry the balls also.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[190]</a></span>
+Place the chops on the dish, the bones toward the edge, and the balls
+between the chops; serve warm. A few balls may be placed in the middle.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Broil and serve them with a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of mushrooms, or
+with a mushroom garniture.</p>
+
+<p>Mutton chops, broiled, may be served with every kind of butter, every
+garniture, and every sauce, according to taste; they may also be served
+with every <i>pur&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p>A French cook once said he could serve mutton <i>chops</i> in three hundred
+ways, <i>apples</i> in two hundred ways, and <i>eggs</i> in four hundred ways. The
+culinary science and art is advanced enough to-day to double the above
+figures, and have plenty to spare.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LEG.</h4>
+
+<p>Besides being prepared as directed for roast mutton, a leg of mutton,
+roasted or baked, may be served in the following ways:</p>
+
+<p>Boil white beans and drain them as directed, then put them on the fire
+with the drippings of the leg of mutton for ten minutes, stirring now
+and then, and serve them with it. They may also be kept in the
+dripping-pan for ten minutes, when boiled and drained, before the leg is
+done. If the leg of mutton is baked, set them on the fire for about ten
+minutes, with the gravy, stirring occasionally. Serve either on the same
+or on a separate dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Currant Jelly.</i>&mdash;Roast or bake the leg of mutton, and serve it
+with currant jelly or with a <i>pur&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Proven&ccedil;ale.</i>&mdash;With a sharp-pointed knife, make a small cut in the leg
+of mutton here and there, and large enough to stick into the cut a clove
+of garlic. Make as many cuts as you please, from six to twenty,
+according to taste, and in each cut stick a clove of garlic. When
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[191]</a></span>
+prepared thus, roast or bake, and serve it with either of the following
+sauces: <i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, <i>r&eacute;molade</i>, Robert, shallot,
+Tartar, tomato, and in <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Decorated.</i>&mdash;A leg of mutton may be decorated the same as a fillet of
+beef.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Take the large bone out, leaving the bone at the smaller end
+as a handle; cut off also the bone below the knuckle, and fix it with
+skewers; then put it in a stewpan with a pinch of allspice, four onions,
+two cloves, two carrots cut in four pieces each, a small bunch of
+parsley, two bay-leaves, three sprigs of thyme, salt, pepper, two ounces
+of bacon cut in slices, a quarter of a pint of broth, and water enough
+just to cover it; set on a good fire, and after one hour of boiling add
+a liquor-glass of French brandy. Let simmer then for about five hours,
+in all about six hours; then dish it, strain the sauce on it, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>We would advise those who have never tasted of a leg of mutton cooked as
+above, to try it.</p>
+
+<p>It may be served also with white beans cooked in water and fried in
+butter, or on fried potatoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>The next day.</i>&mdash;If you have a piece left for the next day, cut it in
+thin slices after dinner, place the slices on a dish, with parsley
+under, in the middle, and above, and keep in a cold place.</p>
+
+<p>A while before dinner you put in a stewpan a piece of butter (the
+quantity to be according to the quantity of meat), and set it on a good
+fire; when melted, sprinkle in, gradually, a little flour, stirring with
+a wooden spoon; when of a proper thickness, and of a brownish color, add
+a glass of broth, salt, pepper, a few pickled cucumbers cut in slices,
+and two or three mushrooms; boil ten minutes; lay the slices of meat in,
+subdue the fire, simmer twenty minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[192]</a></span>
+<p><i>The same, in another way.</i>&mdash;Chop fine the slices of leg of mutton, put
+a piece of butter in a stewpan, and set it on the fire; when melted,
+place the chopped meat in, keep stirring with a wooden spoon for about
+ten minutes; then add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, salt,
+pepper, and a pinch of allspice; simmer fifteen minutes, and serve with
+fried eggs all around the dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boiled.</i>&mdash;Set a saucepan on the fire with cold water enough to cover
+the leg of mutton, add salt; at the first boil put the leg of mutton in,
+wrapped up in a towel. Boil gently till done. For a middling-sized one,
+it takes about two hours. Remove the towel, dish the leg of mutton,
+spread a caper-sauce over it, and serve hot. The sauce may also be
+served in a boat or saucer.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;What is left of it may be prepared like cold mutton in
+vinaigrette.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SHOULDER.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Shoulder boned.</i>&mdash;Split the shoulder just in the middle, on the inside,
+lengthwise and following the middle of the bones; remove the flat bone
+at the larger end first. This is easily done by scraping the meat off
+the bone on both sides, and then pulling it off. Do the same with the
+remaining bone. Spread the shoulder open on the table, the inside up,
+salt and pepper it, then spread on it the same stuffing as for a chicken
+stuffed with sausage-meat. Roll the shoulder round, tie it with twine,
+and roast or bake it. When roasted or baked, serve with the gravy.</p>
+
+<p><i>On a Pur&eacute;e.</i>&mdash;Bone and roll the shoulder as above directed, but do not
+stuff it; roast or bake it, and serve it on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of potatoes,
+beans, peas, lentils, or any other vegetable; place the shoulder in the
+middle of a dish, cut it in slices, and place them all around the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[193]</a></span>
+<i>pur&eacute;e</i>, one lapping over the other; turn the gravy over the whole
+through a strainer, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>With a Sauce.</i>&mdash;When baked or roasted as above, with or without
+stuffing, serve it with a <i>piquante</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, or <i>Robert</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boiled.</i>&mdash;Boil, and serve it with a caper-sauce, the same as the leg.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SADDLE.</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare, cook, and serve the saddle in the same way as the leg&mdash;roasted
+or baked, warm or cold.</p>
+
+
+<h4>COLD MUTTON.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Served cold, &agrave; la Vinaigrette.</i>&mdash;A shoulder of mutton, roasted or
+baked, after being boned, makes a handsome dish served cold. Cut any
+piece of cold mutton that you may have, in thin slices, as evenly as
+possible. Place a paste-cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, in
+the middle of an oval dish; then place the slices of meat all around the
+dish, one slice lapping over another; the dish being oval, the slices of
+meat will touch the paste-cutter on two sides, but there will be two
+empty places on the two other sides, which you fill with hard-boiled
+white of egg chopped fine, and hard-boiled yolk of egg chopped fine
+also; they must not be mixed, and the yolk must be farther from the
+paste-cutter, the white touching it. Put a string of chopped yolk of egg
+all around the meat, and outside of it one of chopped white of egg
+around the yolk, and one of chopped parsley around the white. Remove the
+paste-cutter, and put a rose, or two or three pinks, in its place, or a
+small bunch of violets. Place one or three capers on each small heap of
+yolk of egg that is on the middle of the dish, and also some capers here
+and there on the string of white of egg.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[194]</a></span>
+<p>Place a rose at each end of the dish, as indicated in the cut opposite;
+six radishes around the dish, also as indicated in the cut, and you have
+a dish as sightly as can be made, and an excellent one, too. Serve with
+the following sauce in a boat or saucer: Put in a bowl half a
+teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt; then pour one or two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar on, little by little, beating with a fork at
+the same time; again, three or four tablespoonfuls of oil, and in the
+same way; and when the whole is well mixed, serve.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 765px;">
+<img src="images/0194.jpg" width="765" height="320" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+<h4>A, two roses, one at each end; B, six radishes around; C,
+slices of meat; D, eggs; E, yolks of eggs; F, parsley.</h4>
+
+
+<h4>SHEEP'S BRAIN.</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare, cook, and serve as calf's brain.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FEET.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Throw them in boiling water for ten minutes, clean and
+scrape off the hair and take out the large bone. Put in a saucepan a
+bay-leaf, one clove, a tablespoonful of vinegar, a clove of garlic, two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[195]</a></span>
+sprigs of parsley, two green onions, salt, pepper, a piece of butter the
+size of two walnuts, half a pint of broth, then a dozen feet on the
+whole; set on a slow fire, simmer one hour, stir now and then, take from
+the fire and let cool. Then dip each foot in beaten egg, and roll it in
+bread-crumbs; place them on a gridiron; turn over to broil both sides
+properly, and serve them with the sauce in which they have been cooked,
+after having strained it. They may also be served on a <i>piquante</i>,
+<i>poivrade</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, or <i>Robert</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Poulette.</i>&mdash;Prepare and clean them as directed above. Put in a
+saucepan four ounces of salt pork cut in dice, two ounces of lard, salt,
+and white pepper; when warm, add three sprigs of parsley, two of thyme,
+a bay-leaf, one clove, four onions, and one carrot, cut in slices, a
+quarter of a lemon, also cut in slices, free from rind and seed, two
+tablespoonfuls of flour; this last must be added by sprinkling it little
+by little, stirring the while with a wooden spoon; five minutes after,
+place the feet in, cover the whole with warm water, and let simmer
+gently for five or six hours. After that time see if the meat can be
+easily detached from the bones, and if so, they are cooked; if not,
+leave them a little longer, and take from the fire as soon as it is
+easily detached, but do not detach it. Put in a stewpan a piece of
+butter the size of two walnuts; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir with a wooden spoon, then put the feet in,
+add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, a little piece of
+nutmeg, salt, pepper, and two or three mushrooms cut in slices or
+pieces; wet with broth; simmer half an hour, take from the fire, and
+throw away the piece of nutmeg; mix with the whole two yolks of eggs
+well beaten and a tablespoonful of vinegar, and serve.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[196]</a></span>
+<h4>SHEEP'S KIDNEYS, BROILED.</h4>
+
+<p>Split them in two, and put them in cold water for five minutes; trim off
+the pellicle or thin skin, run a skewer through, sprinkle salt and
+pepper on, place them on the gridiron, and set on a good fire; turn
+over, and when broiled, serve them with a piece of butter and chopped
+parsley kneaded together, and placed on each kidney; add also a few
+drops of lemon-juice.</p>
+
+<p>You may also, when broiled, serve them on a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, in Brochette.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above in every particular, except
+that you place the kidneys on the spit instead of on the gridiron. Serve
+them in the same way.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, with Champagne.</i>&mdash;Cut the kidneys in slices, each in ten or
+twelve pieces. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of two
+walnuts, and set it on the fire; when melted, add a teaspoonful of
+chopped parsley, same of mushrooms, a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt,
+pepper, and the kidneys; keep tossing till they become stiff, then
+sprinkle on them a saltspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon
+the while; add also a wine-glass of Champagne, or of good white wine;
+subdue the fire, and let simmer till cooked; take from the fire, add
+about one ounce of fresh butter, and the juice of half a lemon, and
+serve. This is a very delicate dish.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SHEEP'S TAILS.</h4>
+
+<p>Put in a stewpan two ounces of bacon cut in slices, with a bay-leaf, two
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, one clove, six small onions, one carrot
+cut in four pieces, then about six tails; cover the whole with broth and
+white wine, half of each; add salt and pepper. Place the pan in a
+moderately heated oven; it will take about four hours to cook them.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[197]</a></span>
+After that time, take the tails from the pan, and put them in a warm
+place, then strain the sauce in which they have cooked, skim off the fat
+if too much of it, put the sauce back in the pan, and set on the fire;
+let it reduce till rather thick, place the tails on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i>, turn the
+sauce on them, and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SHEEP'S TONGUES.</h4>
+
+<p>Soak the tongues in cold water for two hours in winter, and one in
+summer, and drain. Throw them in boiling water, and leave till you can
+easily take the skin off; then skin and clean well, split in two
+lengthwise, and let cool. Put in a stewpan two ounces of bacon cut in
+thin slices, a bay-leaf, two sprigs of thyme, four of parsley, two
+cloves, three green onions and six small red or white ones, one carrot
+cut in four pieces, salt and pepper, then the tongues; add also half a
+pint of broth, same of water, same of white wine; set in a moderately
+heated oven, and simmer about four hours; have the stewpan covered as
+nearly air-tight as possible. Then take the tongues from the pan and
+drain them; knead well together two ounces of fresh butter, with two
+teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little salt and allspice; spread some
+on each of the tongues as soon as they are cold; envelop each in oiled
+paper, broil them gently on a slow fire, and serve with the paper.</p>
+
+<p>You may also when prepared and cooked as above directed, and instead of
+broiling them, place a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> on a dish, and serve them on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i>,
+pouring on the whole the sauce in which they have cooked, and straining
+it at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>They are really more delicate when broiled.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[198]</a></span>
+<h4>LAMB.</h4>
+
+<p><i>To select.</i>&mdash;The flesh must be like that of mutton, rather black, and
+the fat white.</p>
+
+<p>There is no difference in the wether and ewe. The shorter the quarters
+are the better the meat, and the fore as well as the hind quarter. With
+the exception that the breast-piece is prepared also in <i>&eacute;pigramme</i>, and
+that it is cut in quarters instead of dividing it like mutton, lamb may
+be prepared in the same and every way like mutton. The quarters may be
+prepared like shoulder, leg, and saddle of mutton.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chops</i> may be cut and prepared the same as mutton-chops.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fore-Quarter.</i>&mdash;According to the opinion of a great many epicures, the
+fore-quarter is the best part of the lamb; but, as we have previously
+said, every one to his liking.</p>
+
+<p>Lard it slightly, and envelop it with buttered paper, place it upon the
+spit before a good fire; when done take from the fire, and take the
+paper off, sprinkle on it salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; put back on
+the spit before a sharp fire, just long enough to allow it to take a
+fine color; then take off, run a knife under the shoulder to make a
+small hole, pour <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce in it, and serve either as it
+is, with its gravy, or on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of sorrel.</p>
+
+<p><i>To bake it.</i>&mdash;Put it in a baking-pan, spread a little salt, pepper, and
+butter over it; cover it with a piece of buttered paper; have the bottom
+of the pan covered with cold water and put in a warm oven, baste often
+till done. If the paper burns, put on another piece. Run a small knife
+or a skewer into the meat, to ascertain when properly done.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[199]</a></span>
+<p>It may be served with the gravy only, after having removed the fat, or
+with a <i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, or <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p>It is also served with a garniture of mushrooms or onions, or with a
+<i>mac&eacute;doine</i>, or on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of spinach, or of sorrel.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hind-Quarter.</i>&mdash;Throw it in boiling water for five minutes, and drain.
+Put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg, and set on the
+fire; when melted, mix in it a tablespoonful of flour; after which, pour
+in, little by little, a pint and a half of boiling water, stirring with
+a wooden spoon all the time; then put the meat in the pan, add four
+onions, a bay-leaf, two cloves, three sprigs of parsley, two of thyme,
+salt, and pepper; about fifteen minutes before it is done, add two or
+three mushrooms cut in slices, take from the fire when cooked, place the
+meat on a dish with the mushrooms and onions around, or if preferred,
+without either; strain the sauce on the meat, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>If the sauce is not thick enough, mix the yolk of an egg in it just
+before serving.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;Roast and serve the hind-quarter in the same way as directed
+for the fore-quarter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Bake and serve it also in the same and every way like the
+fore-quarter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Epigramme.</i>&mdash;Put a breast of lamb in a saucepan, cover it with cold
+water, season with a small onion and one clove stuck in it, two stalks
+of parsley, a piece of carrot, one of turnip, and salt. Boil gently till
+you can pull off the bones easily. It may also be boiled in the
+soup-kettle while making broth. When the bones come off easily, take
+from the fire, pull out all the small bones and cut out the large one.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[200]</a></span>
+Place the breast in a large bakepan, with some weight over so as to
+flatten it, and leave it so till perfectly cold. Then cut it in pieces
+of rhombic shape about four inches long and two inches broad; salt and
+pepper each piece on both sides; dip them in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs and fry them with a little butter, and serve on a tomato,
+<i>piquante</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, or <i>soubise</i> sauce, or on any <i>pur&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p>When the sauce is spread on the dish, place the pieces of lamb all
+around it, one lapping over the other, and forming a kind of oblong
+string, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;When the <i>&eacute;pigramme</i> is prepared as above and ready to be
+served, have as many mutton-chops as you have pieces of meat from the
+breast; dish in the same way, except that you put one piece of the
+breast and then a mutton-chop fried in the same way as the pieces of
+meat; the chops lapping over the pieces of breast, and <i>vice versa</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;The same may be broiled instead of fried, and served in the
+same way.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasted entire.</i>&mdash;Skewer a lamb properly on the spit, envelop it with
+buttered paper, place before a good fire, baste often with melted butter
+first, and then with the drippings; when nearly done take the paper off,
+let the lamb take a fine color around, and serve it with the gravy. It
+may be served with a garniture around and decorated with skewers, the
+same as directed for fillet of beef; it then makes a sightly as well as
+a delicious dish.</p>
+
+<p>Served with a garniture and decorated as directed for a fillet of beef,
+it is served as a <i>relev&eacute;</i> at a grand dinner, and as an <i>entr&eacute;e</i> at a
+family dinner.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;Cold lamb is served in every way like cold mutton. A part left
+from a roasted piece may be enveloped in buttered paper, put on the spit
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[201]</a></span>
+just long enough to warm it, and served just in the same way as roast
+lamb.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lamb's head</i>, <i>feet</i>, <i>kidneys</i>, etc., are prepared and served like the
+same parts of the sheep, and as directed in the different receipts.</p>
+
+
+<h4>KID.</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare, cook, and serve kid the same as lamb.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[202]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="VEAL" id="VEAL"></a>VEAL.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Never buy too young veal. It is very easy to know it; when too young,
+the bones are very tender; they are more like nerves than bones; the
+meat is gluish, and has little or no taste. Epicures say that if a calf
+is killed before it is two months old, or at least six weeks, it is not
+fit for eating. We are of that opinion, although, perhaps, very few are
+allowed so long a life. We will therefore recommend our readers to
+beware buying too young veal; many diseases, especially in children,
+come from eating it.</p>
+
+<p>When you broil or roast a piece of veal, baste often. Veal is better
+when a little overdone; it is not good, and operates like physic, if
+underdone.</p>
+
+<p>The best veal is that of a greenish color and very fat. It is fresh when
+the eyes are full and smooth, and when the meat is firm. If the meat is
+yellowish or contains yellowish spots, it is not fresh. The veins must
+be red.</p>
+
+<p><i>To improve.</i>&mdash;Chop fine a tablespoonful of parsley, a teaspoonful of
+shallots, same of green onions, a bay-leaf, two sprigs of thyme, two or
+three mushrooms, add to them, salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg;
+cover the bottom of a tureen with half of each, put on it the piece of
+veal you wish to improve, cover with the other half of the seasonings;
+then pour gently on the whole two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil; leave
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[203]</a></span>
+the veal thus about four or five hours in winter and about two in
+summer.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ROASTED.</h4>
+
+<p>The pieces of veal that are roasted are the <i>loin</i>, <i>leg</i>, and
+<i>shoulder</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It may be improved as directed above or not, according to taste; but we
+earnestly recommend it as not a little improvement, but as a marked one,
+as everybody can try it and judge, veal being naturally tasteless.</p>
+
+<p>There are three ways of roasting veal. We will describe them, so that it
+can be done according to taste.</p>
+
+<p>1. Spread a thin coat of butter around the piece of veal after being
+salted all around, put on the spit before a good but not very sharp
+fire; near it, but not too much so: veal being more tender than beef, it
+would also burn much quicker. Baste often with melted butter first, and
+then with the drippings, and from the beginning to the end. When done,
+that is, when overdone, as veal must always be, serve with the gravy
+only, or in the different ways described below.</p>
+
+<p>2. Lard all the fleshy parts of the piece of veal with a larding-needle
+and strips of salt pork, the same as a fillet of beef, but which strips
+you roll in a mixture of parsley chopped, salt and pepper, before
+running them into the meat, and proceed as above for the rest. Serve
+also like the above.</p>
+
+<p>3. After the piece of veal is improved as directed, spread the
+seasonings in which it has been improved all around it, then envelop the
+whole in buttered paper, which you fasten with twine, put it on the
+spit, and baste often with melted butter. It must be basted often to
+prevent the paper from burning. About fifteen minutes before it is
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[204]</a></span>
+done, remove the paper, put the meat a little nearer the fire so as to
+give it a fine yellow or golden color, finish the cooking till overdone,
+and serve also like the first, or No. 1.</p>
+
+<p>No matter which of these three ways the piece of veal is roasted, it is
+served in the same manner.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Asparagus.</i>&mdash;When the roasted piece of veal is dished, put a
+<i>pur&eacute;e</i> of asparagus all around, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Peas.</i>&mdash;Spread one pint or one quart (according to the size of the
+piece of meat) of green peas <i>au jus</i>, on a dish; place the meat on the
+peas, spread the gravy over the whole, and serve as warm as possible.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Quenelles.</i>&mdash;Dish the roasted piece, place around it six or eight
+<i>quenelles</i> of chicken or of veal, strain the gravy on the whole, and
+serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Vegetables.</i>&mdash;When roasted and dished, put any kind of vegetables,
+prepared <i>au jus</i>, all around the piece of meat, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sweetbreads.</i>&mdash;Roast the piece of veal as directed, and when
+dished, place six sweetbreads, prepared <i>au jus</i>, tastefully around the
+meat; strain the gravy over, and serve very warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Decorated.</i>&mdash;Every piece of roasted veal may be decorated with skewers,
+either served <i>au jus</i> or in any of the above ways. The skewers are
+first run through either of the following and then stuck into the piece
+of meat: slices of truffles; chicken-combs, prepared as for garniture;
+slices of sweetbreads or whole ones, prepared <i>au jus</i>; <i>quenelles</i> of
+chicken or of veal; slices of carrots, turnips, beets, all prepared <i>au
+jus</i>; and mushrooms. One, two, three, or more to every skewer; for
+instance: one slice of truffle, then one of turnip, a chicken-comb, then
+a slice of sweetbread or a whole one, and then stick in the meat. From
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[205]</a></span>
+two to six skewers may be used. On a large piece never put less than
+two, and no matter how many you use, always have even numbers of them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BAKED.</h4>
+
+<p>All the parts of veal that are roasted, that is, the loin, leg, and
+shoulder, can be baked. They may be improved in the same way as to roast
+them. Put the piece of veal in a bakepan; spread salt, pepper, and
+butter on it; cover the bottom of the pan with cold water, about a
+quarter of an inch in depth; place a piece of buttered paper on the
+meat, and put in a warm oven. If the meat has been improved, the
+seasonings are spread over it before placing the buttered paper. Baste
+often with the water and juice in the pan and over the paper, which you
+need not remove till about ten minutes before taking from the oven, or
+in case it should burn; then you must replace it by another. It keeps
+the top of the meat moist, and it is more juicy when done.</p>
+
+<p>When properly baked (overdone, as every piece of veal must be), serve
+either <i>au jus</i>, or with the same garnitures, the same decorations, as
+directed for roasted veal.</p>
+
+<p>The gravy in the bakepan is strained, the fat skimmed off, and then it
+is turned over the meat and garnitures when dished, the same as the
+drippings or gravy of roast meat. In case the water in the bakepan, or
+the juice, or both, should boil away or be absorbed, put more cold water
+in it, so as to be able to baste.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BLANQUETTE.&mdash;(<i>Also called Poulette.</i>)</h4>
+
+<p>Take about two pounds of neck, breast, shoulder, or any other piece,
+which cut in pieces, two inches square, throw them in boiling water,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[206]</a></span>
+with a little salt, for five minutes, and drain them. Put in a stewpan
+a piece of butter the size of an egg, set it on a good fire, and when
+melted mix in a tablespoonful of flour, stirring all the time, and when
+turning yellow pour gently and slowly in the pan a pint of boiling
+water; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, salt,
+pepper, six small white or red onions, two or three mushrooms, and then
+the meat; boil gently about three hours, and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CROQUETTES.</h4>
+
+<p>Proceed as for chicken croquettes in every particular, except that you
+use cold veal instead of cold chicken.</p>
+
+
+<h4>RAGOUT.</h4>
+
+<p>The neck and breast pieces are generally used to make a <i>ragout</i>, but
+any other piece may be used. Take about three pounds of veal, which cut
+in pieces about two inches square. Put two ounces of butter in a
+saucepan, set it on the fire, and as soon as the butter is melted, lay
+the meat in, stir now and then till of a golden color, and then take the
+meat from the pan. Leave the pan on the fire, and put in it a
+tablespoonful of flour, little by little, keep stirring about five
+minutes; add also half a pint of broth, same of warm water, one onion
+with a clove stuck in it, a bay leaf, two sprigs of thyme, two of
+parsley, a clove of garlic, a small carrot cut in two or three pieces,
+salt and pepper, then the meat, and cover the pan. Half an hour after
+your meat is in, fry in butter in a frying-pan six small onions, which
+you also put in the stewpan as soon as fried. When the whole is cooked,
+place the meat on a dish, strain the sauce on it, surround the whole
+with the six small onions, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Scallops.</i>&mdash;Take a piece from the loin or leg of veal, cut it in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[207]</a></span>
+pieces about three inches long, two inches broad, and one-third of an
+inch thick, as evenly as possible, and flatten them with a chopper. Salt
+and pepper them on both sides, and fry them with a little butter till
+about half done, on both sides alike. Add a little broth and chopped
+parsley, and boil gently till done. Place the pieces of veal all around
+the platter, one lapping over another, turn the sauce in the middle of
+them, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Cut the veal in pieces as for the above; beat one or two
+eggs in a plate with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; dip each piece
+into it and then roll in bread-crumbs; butter a bakepan, place the veal
+in with a small lump of butter on each piece, and bake; turn over to
+bake evenly. Serve as the above, with a <i>piquante</i> or tomato sauce in
+the middle.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BREAST, STEWED.</h4>
+
+<p>Cut in dice two ounces of bacon, put it in a stewpan and set on a good
+fire; add two ounces of butter, and two onions cut in slices; when
+melted, lay the breast in, turn it over and leave till of a golden color
+on both sides; add then two small carrots cut in pieces, one teaspoonful
+of chopped green onions, three sprigs of parsley, half a turnip, salt,
+and pepper; moisten with half a pint of warm water; leave thus about
+three hours on a moderate fire. Strain the juice in a dish, put the meat
+on it, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>The pieces of carrots and of bacon may be served with the meat, if you
+choose.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, with Green Peas.</i>&mdash;Cut the breast in square pieces about two
+inches in size. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg,
+and set it on the fire; when melted, mix in it a teaspoonful of flour,
+then lay the meat in, and wet with half a glass of broth, same of warm
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[208]</a></span>
+water, also two sprigs of parsley, salt, and pepper; stir now and then.
+One hour after add green peas, and leave on the fire till the whole is
+cooked, when skim off the fat on the surface, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Matelote.</i>&mdash;To make a <i>matelote</i> of veal any piece can be used, but
+most generally it is made with a breast or neck piece. Cut the veal in
+square pieces about two inches in size; have in a stewpan and on a good
+fire a piece of butter about the size of an egg; when melted, put the
+meat in, stir now and then till of a golden color; then take the meat
+from the stewpan, which you leave on the fire, and in which you put half
+a pint of warm water, same of claret wine, same of broth, a bay-leaf,
+two cloves, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a clove of garlic,
+salt, and pepper; when turning brown, put the meat back in the pan, and
+fifteen minutes before it is cooked add also ten small onions fried in
+butter beforehand and four or five mushrooms, then have a brisk fire to
+finish the cooking; place the meat on a dish, strain the sauce on the
+meat, put the ten small onions around it, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Salt and pepper both sides of the breast of veal, grease it
+all over with melted butter, by means of a brush, and broil till
+overdone. Serve with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, <i>piquante</i>, or <i>poivrade</i>
+sauce.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CUTLETS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;When properly trimmed, they may be improved as directed for
+veal. Salt and pepper both sides; spread a little melted butter on both
+sides also by means of a brush; place them on, before, or under the fire
+(<i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Broiling</span>); baste now and then with melted butter; turn over one,
+two, or three times, and when rather overdone serve with a <i>ma&icirc;tre
+d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce spread all over.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[209]</a></span>
+<p>The above way of serving them is sometimes called <i>au naturel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Crumbs.</i>&mdash;When trimmed, dip them in egg beaten with salt, pepper,
+and chopped parsley, roll them in bread-crumbs, and then broil and serve
+them as the above, with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fines Herbes.</i>&mdash;Broil the chops as above, either with or without
+crumbs, and serve them with sauce <i>aux fines herbes</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>A l'Italienne.</i>&mdash;When broiled as above, serve them on a layer of
+<i>macaroni Italienne</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;When broiled and dished, surround them with a
+garniture of mushrooms, and serve warm. When there are several cutlets
+on the dish, and placed all around overlapping, the garniture may be put
+in the middle of the chops.</p>
+
+<p>Do the same with the following garnitures: chicken-combs, <i>croutons</i>,
+<i>duxelle</i>, <i>financi&egrave;re</i>, <i>Mac&eacute;doine</i>, and onion. They may also be served
+on any <i>pur&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Trim six cutlets. Mix well half a pound of sausage-meat with
+two eggs. Put a piece of buttered paper large enough to cover the bottom
+of a bakepan in which the six cutlets may be laid easily. Spread half
+the sausage-meat on the paper in the pan, then lay the cutlets in it;
+put the other half of the sausage-meat over the cutlets, and place the
+whole in a rather quick oven. Baste every five minutes with melted
+butter and broth, using them alternately, and serve warm with the gravy
+when done. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added to them when on the
+dish, if liked.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;Trim, and fry them with a little butter. When done on both
+sides, add a little broth, salt, pepper, and mushrooms and parsley
+chopped fine; chopped truffles may be added, if handy; boil gently for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[210]</a></span>
+about ten minutes. Place the cutlets around the dish, one lapping over
+the other, turn the sauce in the middle, sprinkle some lemon-juice over
+the whole, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sauce.</i>&mdash;When broiled, baked, or <i>saut&eacute;d</i>, they may be dished and
+served with either of the following sauces: <i>fines herbes</i>, <i>ma&icirc;tre
+d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, <i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, <i>tarragon</i>, tomato, or
+truffle.</p>
+
+<p><i>En Bellevue.</i>&mdash;Proceed the same as for fillet of beef <i>en Bellevue</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Papillotes.</i>&mdash;Trim six veal-chops, spread salt and pepper on them,
+and fry them with a little butter till about half done. Take from the
+fire, and cut a small hole in the middle with a paste-cutter. While they
+are frying, fry with a little butter one onion chopped fine; as soon as
+fried, add half a pound of sausage-meat; stir now and then for about
+five minutes; add also a pinch of cinnamon, same of nutmeg; take off and
+mix with the whole one yolk of egg, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
+salt, and pepper. Cut six pieces of white paper of a heart-like shape,
+and large enough to envelop a chop; grease them slightly with butter or
+sweet-oil; place some sausage-meat on one side of the paper (say half a
+tablespoonful), place a chop on it; put some sausage-meat on the chop
+and in the hole; fold the paper in two; then, by folding all around the
+border, the chop and seasonings are perfectly enveloped in the paper;
+put the chops in a baking-pan, spread a few drops of oil all over, and
+bake for about fifteen minutes in an oven at about 250 deg. Fahr.
+Instead of baking them, broil them carefully turning them over often and
+basting them to prevent the paper from burning, and serve with the paper
+on. They may be served on a <i>duxelle</i> garniture, or with a <i>pur&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[211]</a></span>
+<p><i>Fricandeau.</i>&mdash;Take a piece of veal of any size, from the leg, loin, or
+cutlet piece, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, lard one
+side with salt pork, the same as a fillet of beef. Put in a saucepan
+(for two pounds of meat) one ounce of butter, half a middling-sized
+onion, and as much carrot in slices, two or three stalks of parsley, one
+of thyme, a bay-leaf, six or eight pepper-corns, and rind of the pork
+you have used; spread all these seasonings on the bottom of the
+saucepan, put the piece of veal on them, the larded side up, set on a
+good fire for about fifteen minutes; after which you look if the under
+side of the meat is well browned; if so, add a gill of broth, put in the
+oven and baste often, if not, leave a little longer on the fire. Add a
+little broth once in a while, to keep the bottom of the pan wet, and to
+have enough to baste till a little overdone, and serve with the gravy
+strained all over it. It is then called <i>au jus</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Spinach.</i>&mdash;Prepare and cook the <i>fricandeau</i> as above; and when
+done, put some broth in the pan after having taken off the meat; give
+one boil; turn in the spinach <i>au jus</i>; stir on the fire one minute;
+dish the spinach; place the <i>fricandeau</i> on it, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sorrel.</i>&mdash;Proceed as with spinach in every particular, except that
+you serve on sorrel <i>au jus</i> instead of spinach. It makes a more
+delicate dish with sorrel, although excellent with spinach.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be served with green peas <i>au jus</i> or <i>&agrave; l'anglaise</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Financi&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;When prepared, cooked, and dished as directed, surround
+it with a <i>financi&egrave;re</i> garniture, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Jardini&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;After being cooked and dished, put a <i>Mac&eacute;doine</i>
+garniture around it, and serve warm.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[212]</a></span>
+<h4>SHOULDER.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Boned.</i>&mdash;Lay the shoulder on the table, the inside up, split it just in
+the middle, lengthwise, and following the middle of the bones; remove
+the flat bone at the larger end first. Do the same for the remaining
+bone. Then spread the shoulder open, and salt and pepper it. Fill the
+inside with sausage-meat; roll it of a round shape, and when properly
+tied with twine, roast or bake it, as directed for roasted or baked
+veal. It is then dished, decorated, and served in the same and every way
+as directed for roasted pieces of veal.</p>
+
+<p>It is an excellent dish served on either of the following pur&eacute;es:
+<i>beans</i>, <i>celery</i>, <i>lentils</i>, <i>peas</i>, <i>potatoes</i>, <i>sorrel</i>, <i>spinach</i>,
+or <i>tomatoes</i>.</p>
+
+<p>When served on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i>, it may be decorated with skewers, the same as
+when served with a garniture.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be served with a <i>piquante</i> or <i>poivrade</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;Bone the shoulder as directed above; spread it open, and
+salt and pepper it, also as directed. Spread a coat of sausage-meat on
+it, about one-third of an inch in thickness, then put a layer of salt
+pork on the sausage-meat; then a layer of boiled ham; again a layer of
+sausage-meat; on this a layer of beef or sheep's tongue, boiled. The ham
+and tongue are cut in square fillets, about one-fourth of an inch broad
+and about two inches long. The tongues may be fresh or salted, according
+to taste. When filled, roll it so as to give it a round shape; wrap it
+up in a towel and drop it in boiling water, to which you have added
+salt. Boil gently for about four hours, take the kettle from the fire
+and let cool. When cold take the shoulder off, wipe it dry and serve
+with meat jelly. The jelly is chopped, or cut in fancy shapes, or both.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[213]</a></span>
+Some chopped jelly may be placed all around the meat, and some cut in
+fancy shapes with a paste-cutter or with a knife, and placed over it.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be decorated with skewers, as directed for roasted pieces of
+veal.</p>
+
+<p><i>En Bellevue.</i>&mdash;When boiled and cold, prepare it like a fillet of <i>beef
+en Bellevue</i>, and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LOIN OR LEG STEWED.</h4>
+
+<p>Have in a stewpan and on a slow fire three or four tablespoonfuls of
+sweet-oil; when hot put the loin in, turn it over till of a yellow color
+all around, then add a bay-leaf, salt, pepper, and a pint of warm water;
+simmer four hours, and serve with the following sauce, which you must
+have prepared at the same time: Fry in butter till of a golden color ten
+middling-sized onions, then add to them half a glass of claret wine, two
+tablespoonfuls of broth, and two of the juice of the loin, ten mushrooms
+(if handy); simmer till cooked, and strain. Mix the sauce with the juice
+of the loin, and put it on a dish, place the loin upon it, and serve
+with the onions and mushrooms around the meat.</p>
+
+<p>In case the juice of the loin should be found too fat, throw in it (and
+before mixing it with the sauce) a few drops of cold water, and skim off
+the fat.</p>
+
+<p>The only thing to throw away before mixing is the bay-leaf.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way, or prepared with a Garniture of Cabbages.</i>&mdash;Put in a
+stewpan and set on a good fire a piece of butter the size of an egg;
+when melted, add four onions and two small carrots, cut in slices; fry
+them two or three minutes, then put the loin in, with half a bay-leaf,
+wet with warm broth; then subdue the fire, let simmer about two hours
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[214]</a></span>
+and a half; strain the sauce on a dish, place the meat on it, and serve
+with a garniture of cabbages around.</p>
+
+
+<h4>COLD VEAL.</h4>
+
+<p>Cut the meat in slices and serve them on a dish, arranged according to
+fancy, and serve with a <i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, <i>Mayonnaise</i>,
+<i>Proven&ccedil;ale</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, or <i>r&eacute;molade</i> sauce. It may also be decorated
+and served like cold mutton, in <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan
+and set on a good fire, mix in when melted two teaspoonfuls of flour,
+stir till of a brownish color, when add a saltspoonful of chopped
+parsley, four leaves of tarragon, salt, pepper, and half a pint of broth
+(more or less of the above according to the quantity of meat you have
+left), boil the whole fifteen minutes; then, if what you have left is
+from an entire piece, cut it in slices, lay them in the pan, and serve
+when warm enough, as it is.</p>
+
+<p>If what you have left is in pieces or slices, you merely place them in
+the pan and serve with the sauce when warm.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BRAIN.</h4>
+
+<p><i>To prepare.</i>&mdash;Put the brain in a bowl of cold water and a tablespoonful
+of vinegar and leave it in from one to two or three hours, that is, till
+you are ready to use it, but do not leave it more than five or six hours
+and not less than one hour. Take it off, remove the thin skin and
+blood-vessels that are all around.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;When prepared, put the brain in a small saucepan, cover it
+with cold water; add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half an onion
+sliced, three stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, six
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[215]</a></span>
+pepper-corns, one clove, salt, boil about five minutes and take off the
+fire. Cut each half of the brain in two, from side to side; place the
+four pieces on a dish, the part cut upward.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Beurre Noir.</i>&mdash;When dished as above directed, put two ounces of
+butter in a frying-pan and when melted turn into it two tablespoonfuls
+of vinegar, boil two or three minutes, then throw into it half a dozen
+stalks of parsley, take them off immediately with a skimmer, turn the
+butter and vinegar over the brain; spread the parsley around, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed, or in Matelote.</i>&mdash;When prepared as directed, put it in a small
+saucepan and cover it with claret wine; add half an onion sliced, one
+clove of garlic, one clove, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, salt, a
+bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, and boil gently for about fifteen minutes.
+Cut and dish it as directed above; turn the sauce over it through a
+strainer and serve&mdash;it is understood, the sauce in which it has been
+cooked.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Prepare as directed, cut in about six slices, dip them in
+batter, and fry in hot fat. (<i>See direction for</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>In Poulette.</i>&mdash;Prepare and boil it as directed, split each half of the
+brain in two or four pieces, place them tastefully on a dish, spread a
+<i>poulette</i> sauce all over, and serve warm. It may also be prepared and
+served with a <i>piquante</i> sauce. When the <i>piquante</i> sauce is made, put
+the brain or brains in, boil ten minutes, and serve as it is.</p>
+
+
+<h4>EARS.</h4>
+
+<p>They are prepared in every way like calf's head.</p>
+
+
+<h4>FEET.</h4>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;Throw them in boiling water for five minutes, split them in
+the middle and lengthwise after having taken off the large bone and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[216]</a></span>
+hair, and tie them with a string. Put a piece of butter the size of two
+walnuts in a stewpan and set it on the fire, when melted add a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, half of each, a quarter
+of a lemon cut in slices, salt, and pepper, then the feet; wet with a
+glass of warm water; boil gently two or three hours, take from the fire
+and when nearly cold dip them in bread-crumbs, place them on a gridiron
+and set on a good fire, baste slightly with the juice in which they have
+cooked, and serve with fried parsley around.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, in Poulette.</i>&mdash;Prepare and cook them as above. When you take
+them from the fire, instead of dipping them in bread-crumbs, put them in
+a <i>poulette</i> sauce, simmer ten minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;When boiled and drained dry, dip them in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs, fry in hot fat, and serve with green parsley all around.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Vinaigrette.</i>&mdash;Boil them as directed and drain them dry. When
+perfectly cold, serve them with a <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CALF'S HEAD.</h4>
+
+<p><i>How to prepare.</i>&mdash;When the hair is off and the whole head well cleaned
+(this is generally done by butchers; but if not, throw the head in
+boiling water for five minutes and scrape the hair off with a knife
+immediately after taking it from the water), put it then in cold water
+for twenty-four hours in winter and ten in summer, changing the water
+two or three times.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;It may be boiled whole or after it is boned. If boiled
+whole, cut a hole on the top of the head and take off the brain without
+breaking it; put it in cold water immediately and as directed. Then set
+the head on the fire in a saucepan, covered with cold water, salt, one
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[217]</a></span>
+onion sliced, half a lemon, four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, two cloves of garlic, ten pepper-corns, and two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar; boil gently till done. Bone it before using
+it.</p>
+
+<p>When boiled after being boned, the brain is taken off in the same way as
+above and put in cold water also; then the tongue is cut out and boiled
+with the skin of the head, etc., with the same seasonings as when boiled
+whole. It is then ready for use, but leave it in the water till wanted;
+it would become tough if exposed to the air.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Poulette.</i>&mdash;Put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan, set it on
+the fire, when melted turn in one tablespoonful of flour; stir, and as
+soon as it commences to turn yellow add half a pint of broth, stir
+again, and when thickening, add the calf's head cut in rather large
+dice, give one boil, take from the fire, add the yolk of an egg and
+about a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, stir, give another boil, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Vinaigrette.</i>&mdash;Leave it in the water till perfectly cold; or, if
+wanted immediately, as soon as boiled, take it off and put in cold water
+to cool, and use. Cut the head in large dice and serve it with oil,
+vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard, and parsley chopped.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Prepare and boil the calf's head as directed. As soon as
+cool, cut it in about half a dozen pieces, dip them in beaten eggs, roll
+them in bread-crumbs, and broil both sides till turning of a golden
+color; serve warm with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce, or with anchovy or
+horse-radish butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Calf's head may be fried as soon as prepared and boiled; but
+most generally, it is only what has been left from the day before that
+is fried. Cut it in small pieces about two inches square, dip them in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[218]</a></span>
+melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat.
+Serve hot, adding lemon-juice when the pieces of calf's head are on the
+dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>En Tortue, or Turtle-like.</i>&mdash;There are two ways of preparing calf's
+head en tortue:</p>
+
+<p>1. When it is prepared and boiled as directed above, drain it dry, cut
+it in pieces as for frying it; put them in a saucepan with one ounce of
+butter, set on the fire, stir for two minutes, add nearly a pint of
+Madeira wine, simmer gently for about half an hour; dish the meat, add a
+little lemon-juice all over, and serve warm. Some <i>quenelles</i> of chicken
+may be placed all around, as a decoration; or a garniture of mushrooms.</p>
+
+<p>2. Prepare and boil the calf's head; drain it dry and cut it in pieces
+about two inches square. Dish the pieces either mound-like, or around
+the dish, one lapping over the other, and turn the following over it,
+and serve warm: Put a <i>financi&egrave;re</i> garniture in a saucepan with a pint
+of Madeira wine, set on the fire and boil gently for about twenty
+minutes; take from the fire, spread over the pieces of calf's head, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p>Some hard-boiled eggs cut in four or eight pieces, lengthwise, may be
+placed all around the dish; or some pickled cucumbers, cut in fancy
+pieces, or some quenelles of veal or chicken.</p>
+
+
+<h4>HEART.</h4>
+
+<p><i>To prepare.</i>&mdash;Soak it in lukewarm water for about three hours, trim it
+and free it from skin, blood, and small fibres; then drain and wipe it
+dry. Stuff or fill it with sausage-meat, to which you add previously two
+or three onions chopped fine.</p>
+
+<p><i>To cook.</i>&mdash;When thus prepared, envelop it in buttered paper, set on
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[219]</a></span>
+the spit before a good fire, baste often, remove the paper a few minutes
+before taking it from the fire, then serve warm with a <i>piquante</i>,
+<i>poivrade</i>, or <i>ravigote</i> sauce. It may also be served with a
+<i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>To bake.</i>&mdash;When prepared as directed above, put it in a baking-pan;
+spread a little butter over, put a little water in the bakepan and set
+in a quick oven, baste and turn over two or three times, and when done,
+serve with the gravy and the same sauces as if it were roasted.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Gratin.</i>&mdash;Soak, drain and wipe it dry as directed.</p>
+
+<p>Cut it in slices and put them in a crockery or other pan; turn a white
+sauce all over, then sprinkle on half a gill of vinegar or the juice of
+a lemon, dust with bread-crumbs, put half a dozen lumps of butter, each
+about the size of a hazelnut, all over; bake in a rather quick oven.</p>
+
+
+<h4>KIDNEYS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;When prepared as directed below, cut it in pieces as directed
+for kidney in <i>brochettes</i>. Then put a piece of butter the size of half
+an egg in a frying-pan and set it on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in
+a teaspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon the while, add half
+a wine-glass of white wine, a tablespoonful of broth, a pinch of chopped
+parsley, salt and pepper, boil ten minutes and lay the fillets in; have
+a quick fire, and as soon as cooked dish them, spread the sauce over,
+sprinkle on a few drops of lemon-juice, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>To prepare.</i>&mdash;Never cook a kidney except it be very fresh. Prepare in
+the following way, a beef, sheep, or calf's kidney. Pig's kidneys are
+excellent if they have no disagreeable taste, but it is very often the
+case. The bad taste may be partly taken away by blanching the kidney,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[220]</a></span>
+but it makes it tough and tasteless; it is better to throw it away.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Brochettes.</i>&mdash;Split the kidney in four lengthwise, and then cut it
+in rather small pieces. Cut fat salt pork in pieces of the same size as
+the pieces of kidney&mdash;the fatty part of the kidney must not be
+used&mdash;then salt and pepper the pieces of kidney; take a common skewer
+and run it through a piece of kidney, then through a piece of salt pork;
+repeat this till the skewer is full. Fill as many skewers as are
+necessary till the whole kidney is used; and then roast before a good
+fire, basting often with melted butter. Serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Prepare as above, and instead of roasting, put the
+skewers in a bake-pan, spread a little butter over the kidney and salt
+pork, cover the bottom of the pan only with cold water, and bake. While
+in the oven, turn over and baste occasionally.</p>
+
+<p>Serve as the above, with its gravy, and warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Skewer the kidney, or rather pieces of kidney and salt pork
+as above; dip them in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry
+them in hot fat. Serve warm, but without gravy.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LIGHTS.</h4>
+
+<p>Cut them in four pieces, soak and wash them three or four times in
+lukewarm water, changing the water each time; press them with the hands
+to extract all the blood. Place the lights in a stewpan, cover them with
+cold water, and set on a good fire; boil two minutes, take them off,
+throw them in cold water, and drain them; cut the lights in dice. Have
+butter in a stewpan on the fire, and when melted, lay the lights in, fry
+five minutes, keeping them tossed the while, then sprinkle on a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[221]</a></span>
+tablespoonful of flour, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon; pour
+on, little by little, about a pint of warm broth, also a saltspoonful of
+chopped parsley, a pinch of allspice, salt, pepper, a bay-leaf, and
+sprig of thyme; have a brisk fire, and when about half done, add four or
+five mushrooms, and eight small onions. When the whole is cooked, take
+off bay-leaf and thyme, then take from the fire, beat two yolks of eggs
+with a tablespoonful of vinegar, and mix with the whole, turn on a dish,
+and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CALF'S LIVER.</h4>
+
+<p><i>How to prepare.</i>&mdash;Have water, with a little salt, on the fire, and at
+the first boiling, throw the liver in for about five minutes, and drain
+it.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to improve the Liver before cooking it.</i>&mdash;Put in a tureen two
+tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a bay-leaf broken in four pieces, two
+sprigs of thyme, four of parsley chopped fine, a green onion also
+chopped fine, salt, and pepper; lay the liver on the whole, and leave it
+from four to six hours, turning it over two or three times.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to cook, roasted.</i>&mdash;Envelop the liver with buttered paper, place it
+on the spit before a good fire, baste often with the oil from the
+tureen, after having taken off bay-leaf and thyme. A few minutes before
+it is done, take the paper off, baste continually with the drippings
+till well cooked, and serve it with the gravy.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be served with a <i>piquante</i> or <i>poivrade</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p>It takes from thirty-five to forty-five minutes to roast it.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and set it
+on a sharp fire; when melted, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[222]</a></span>
+green onions, then the liver cut in slices (after having been prepared
+as above); sprinkle on a saltspoonful of flour, then half a wine-glass
+of warm broth, same of claret wine, salt, pepper, and a pinch of
+allspice; serve when done.</p>
+
+<p>It takes only from ten to twelve minutes for the whole process.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, in the Oven.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on a
+sharp fire; when hot, put the liver in (after having been boiled as
+directed above, and after having cut it in pieces); fry it five minutes,
+turning over once only; then take from the fire, salt both sides of the
+slices, place them on a warm dish, putting on each slice a little butter
+kneaded with chopped parsley, salt, and pepper; put two or three minutes
+in a warm oven, take off, sprinkle on the whole the juice of half a
+lemon, and serve in the dish in which it has cooked.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, stewed.</i>&mdash;Boil the liver as directed above, and when drained
+and cold, lard it well. Have butter in a frying-pan on a brisk fire;
+when hot, put the liver in for about five minutes, turning it over on
+every side. Have in a stewpan four ounces of bacon cut in dice; set it
+on a good fire, and when hot, lay the liver in; then add a glass of warm
+broth, same of white wine, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, two of parsley,
+a clove of garlic, two cloves, and a small carrot cut in two; cover the
+stewpan, subdue the fire, and let simmer three hours; stir now and then,
+place the liver on a dish, strain the sauce on it, and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CALF'S PLUCK.</h4>
+
+<p>Put the pluck in cold water for twelve hours in winter and four in
+summer; change the water once, drain, and throw it in boiling water for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[223]</a></span>
+ten or fifteen minutes; take off and throw in cold water to cool, and
+drain it. Cut the pluck in pieces, and cook it like calf's head, and
+serve with the same sauce.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CALF'S TAIL.</h4>
+
+<p>Take two tails, cut each in two, throw them in boiling water for three
+minutes, and drain. Cut a cabbage in two, trim off the stump, throw the
+two halves in boiling water, with a little salt, for fifteen minutes,
+and drain it. Put in a tureen the tails, cabbage, six ounces of lean
+bacon, two sprigs of parsley chopped fine, same quantity of green
+onions, two cloves, a little piece of nutmeg, a clove of garlic, salt,
+and pepper; cover the whole with half broth and half water, and boil
+gently till cooked. Then take off cloves, nutmeg, and garlic, turn the
+remainder on a dish, and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TONGUE.</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare, cook, and serve a calf's tongue, in the same and every way like
+a fresh beef's tongue. The only difference is, that, being smaller, it
+is seldom decorated.</p>
+
+<p>It may be split in two, lengthwise and nearly through, opened and served
+thus, with slices of pickled cucumbers.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SWEETBREADS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>To prepare.</i>&mdash;Soak them in cold water for about an hour. Take off and
+remove the skin and bloody vessels that are all around. For two
+sweetbreads set about one pint of water on the fire in a small saucepan
+with salt, a tablespoonful of vinegar, a few slices of onion, six
+pepper-corns, a clove of garlic, two cloves, six sprigs of parsley, one
+of thyme, and a bay-leaf; boil two minutes, drop the sweetbreads in,
+boil one minute and take them off. Drop them immediately in cold water
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[224]</a></span>
+and leave them in for from two minutes to an hour. Put them on a flat
+surface with a board over, and leave them thus till they are perfectly
+cold and rather flattened.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Jus.</i>&mdash;Trim them a little, so as to give them a better appearance.
+Lard the top or smooth side, then butter the bottom of a pan, spread a
+few slices of onion on the butter; add a bay-leaf, a clove, two stalks
+of parsley; place the sweetbreads on the whole, the larded side up,
+cover the pan and set on a good fire, or in a rather warm oven; about
+ten minutes after, add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, baste now
+and then till done. If the broth is absorbed before the sweetbreads are
+done, add some more. Dish the sweetbreads, turn the gravy over them
+through a strainer, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Prepare as above directed; then, instead of larding it,
+you knead well together two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of shallots
+and parsley well chopped, half a clove of garlic, salt, and pepper;
+place the whole in a stewpan, with the sweetbreads on it, and thin
+slices of bacon on the sweetbreads; set the pan on a good fire, and add
+then half a glass of broth, same of white wine; simmer till cooked; dish
+the sweetbreads, throw a few drops of cold water in the sauce, skim off
+the fat, strain the sauce on the sweetbreads, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>When the sweetbreads <i>au jus</i> are dished as directed, place tastefully,
+all around, either of the following garnitures: <i>cauliflower</i>,
+<i>chicken-combs</i>, <i>duxelle</i>, <i>financi&egrave;re</i>, <i>mushrooms</i>, <i>liver</i>,
+<i>Mac&eacute;doine</i>, <i>quenelles</i>, and <i>truffles</i>. Besides these garnitures, the
+sweetbreads may be decorated with small skewers, run through a boiled
+<i>craw-fish</i> and a small <i>quenelle</i> of chicken or of veal. One or two
+skewers may be stuck in each sweetbread.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[225]</a></span>
+<p>The sweetbreads, when several are served at a time, may be placed on the
+dish, either around it, forming a kind of crown, or forming a pyramid,
+or in any other way, according to fancy. They may also be served with a
+sauce <i>fines herbes</i>.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[226]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="PORK" id="PORK"></a>PORK.</h2>
+
+<h4>TO SELECT.</h4>
+
+
+<p>When the rind is tender and thin, the pork is young; when thick and
+hard, it is old.</p>
+
+<p>To be good, the meat must be soft, and have a fresh and good appearance.</p>
+
+<p>We do not think it necessary to indicate here how to make black
+puddings, chitterlings, Bologna, and other sausages. It is nearly, if
+not quite impossible, for a person having no practice in it, to make
+them edible; it is better to buy them ready made at pork-butchers'
+shops, or to hire an experienced person to make them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CHINE AND FILLET.</h4>
+
+<p>Take a good chine of pork, place it on the spit before a sharp fire,
+baste often with a little melted butter first, and then with the
+drippings; when properly cooked, serve it with a <i>vinaigrette</i>,
+<i>Robert</i>, <i>piquante</i>, or <i>poivrade</i> sauce. It will take from two to
+three or four hours to roast, according to the size of the chine.</p>
+
+
+<h4>HOW TO IMPROVE THE CHINE OF PORK.</h4>
+
+<p>Place it in a crockery vessel, pour on it two tablespoonfuls of
+sweet-oil, then sprinkle on two teaspoonfuls or chopped parsley, also
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[227]</a></span>
+salt and pepper, two onions chopped fine, four cloves, and two
+bay-leaves; leave thus twenty-four hours in winter, and ten in summer,
+turning over two or three times. The taste of the meat is much improved
+by that process. The oil may be used for basting instead of butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Put the chine in a bakepan, sprinkle salt over it, coyer the
+bottom of the pan with cold water, and put in a rather quick oven, baste
+often, and in case there should be much fat in the pan, take it off and
+add a little cold water.</p>
+
+<p>When overdone, serve with any of the following <i>pur&eacute;es</i>: beans, lentils,
+Lima beans, onions, peas, potatoes, sorrel, or spinach.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be served with the following sauces: <i>fines herbes</i>,
+<i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, <i>Proven&ccedil;ale</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, <i>r&eacute;molade</i>, <i>Robert</i>,
+<i>tarragon</i>, <i>Tartar</i>, and <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is served also with a tomato-sauce. Make more sauce for pork than for
+other dishes, and make the tomato-sauce rather thick by boiling it
+gently for some time; it tastes better so with pork.</p>
+
+<p>Always use mustard with pork, if you like it. Horse-radish, also, is
+good with it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CUTLETS.</h4>
+
+<p>Flatten the cutlets with a chopper (they may be improved in the same way
+as the chine), place them on the gridiron and set on a sharp fire; turn
+over two or three times, and when properly done, serve them with a
+<i>piquante</i>, <i>Robert</i>, or tomato-sauce, adding to them some slices of
+pickled cucumbers just before serving.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, saut&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;Instead of broiling them, when prepared as above,
+place them in a frying-pan with a little butter, turn over two or three
+times during the cooking, and serve as the above, or on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of
+sorrel.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[228]</a></span>
+<h4>LEG, ROASTED.</h4>
+
+<p><i>How to improve it.</i>&mdash;Take the skin or rind gently off, put the leg in a
+crockery vessel, pour on it the following mixture: a pint of white wine,
+two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a bunch of sage, salt, pepper, and a
+pinch of grated nutmeg. Leave it thus two days in winter and one in
+summer, turning it over two or three times during the process.</p>
+
+<p>Place the leg on the spit and put before a very sharp fire, baste often
+with the mixture from the crockery vessel, or with melted butter, and
+serve when cooked, with the gravy strained. It will take about two or
+two and a half hours to roast it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Bake and serve the leg in the same and every way as the chine,
+with <i>pur&eacute;es</i> and sauces. Any part of pork is prepared like chine.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ham in hors-d'oeuvre.</i>&mdash;Cut the ham in small and thin slices, place the
+slices tastefully on a dish, either overlapping or in pyramid, or in any
+other fancy way, and serve with parsley in the middle or around. Slices
+of lemon may also be served with it, either with the parsley or without
+it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>HAM.</h4>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;Sugar-cured are preferred to others.</p>
+
+<p>Scrape off the outside gently, soak in cold water for from six to
+twenty-four hours, take off and wipe dry.</p>
+
+<p>Envelop it in a towel and tie it. Place it in a kettle large enough to
+hold it without bending it; cover with cold water; season with six small
+onions, two carrots, four cloves, two bay-leaves, a handful or two
+plants of parsley, two or three stalks of thyme, two of celery, two
+cloves of garlic (a handful of hay and half a bottle of white wine, if
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[229]</a></span>
+handy would improve the taste); boil gently for four or five hours,
+according to the size (four hours for a ten-pound one, five for a
+fifteen-pound one). Pay no attention to the old saying that "it takes
+half an hour to every pound."</p>
+
+<p>Take from the fire, remove the towel, break off and remove the small
+bone at the larger end of it, and without tearing the meat. Remove the
+rind also, leaving only about two inches of it near the smaller end,
+cutting it so that it will be dentilated.</p>
+
+<p><i>To decorate.</i>&mdash;It is decorated in several ways, according to taste and
+fancy. If the fat is not white after having removed the rind, spread a
+very thin coat of lard over it, place the ham on a dish, the fatty side
+up. Cut carrots, turnips, and beets, boiled tender, in fancy shapes,
+with paste-cutters or with a knife; place them tastefully all over the
+ham; place also all over it some parsley, capers, and olives. Chop some
+meat-jelly and put it all around the dish, and serve. In carving it,
+scrape back the lard and vegetables, slice, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;When boiled, trimmed, and the rind removed, put it in the
+oven for about twenty minutes, basting the while with a Madeira sauce.
+Serve with the sauce. Any kind of <i>pur&eacute;e</i> may be served with it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;When trimmed and soaked in water as directed, boil it with
+half wine and half water: the same seasonings as when boiled in water.
+Use either Catawba, Sauterne, or Rhine wine. It makes it more expensive,
+but it is excellent. It is served as when boiled in water.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Boil it in claret wine, and when trimmed and decorated,
+serve it with a mushroom or a <i>truffle</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Boil, trim, and cut off the rind as described in the above
+cases; place the frill, and serve with <i>spinach au beurre.</i></p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[230]</a></span>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0230.jpg" width="643" height="317" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+<h4>A, skewers; B, carrot; C, truffle or mushroom; D, jelly; E, frill.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Boil and trim the ham as above, cut the rind in the same
+way. What is left of the rind is cut as seen in the cut opposite: that
+is, some small square pieces are cut off, from place to place, so that
+it resembles a checkerboard; stick two or more skewers in it, glaze it
+with essence of beef or with sugar, and serve either on a tomato-sauce
+or on <i>peas &agrave; l'Anglaise</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ham English fashion.</i>&mdash;Soak it in water and trim it as directed. Make
+some paste with water and flour only; spread a coat of this paste all
+over the ham, and then envelop it in buttered or oiled paper. Put it on
+the spit and baste with fat while it is roasting. Roast it for three or
+three and a half hours, according to size; remove the paper about two
+hours after it has been taken from the fire; cut a hole in the paste
+about an inch in diameter and on the lean side; pour into it, little by
+little, half a pint of good Madeira wine, cover the hole with some
+paste, placing a band of paper on it to prevent it from falling; put
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[231]</a></span>
+the ham back on the spit for about twenty minutes, and serve whole with
+Madeira sauce. We mean, by serving whole, with the paste around it, but
+not the paper.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the sauce, some green vegetables, boiled only, are served on
+separate dishes, but eaten with the ham.</p>
+
+<p>It is also served like game, with currant-jelly, apple-sauce, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Champagne Sauce.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above in every particular, except
+that you use Champagne instead of Madeira wine, and when done serve it
+with a Champagne sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;It may be boiled as directed above, and served with a
+Champagne sauce also.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;When soaked and dry, put it in a crockery vessel; put on and
+all around it four onions chopped fine, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of
+thyme, a piece of nutmeg, and pour on the whole a bottle of white wine;
+cover the vessel as nearly air-tight as possible, leave it thus for
+about twenty-four hours, turning it over two or three times, so as to
+let every side take the seasonings. Place the ham on the spit before a
+good fire, baste often with the seasonings from the crockery vessel, and
+when done take it off, dust it with fine raspings of bread, place it
+fifteen minutes in a slow oven, strain the drippings, boil them till
+reduced to a proper thickness, dish the ham, pour the drippings on it,
+and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SALTED PORK.</h4>
+
+<p>The best and only proper way to cook salted pork, is, to put it in a
+kettle, entirely cover it with cold water, boil gently till cooked, and
+serve it with a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> or with a garniture of cabbage. Any thing else
+that you might put with it would rather spoil than better it.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[232]</a></span>
+<h4>PIG'S EARS.</h4>
+
+<p><i>How to prepare.</i>&mdash;Soak them in warm water for a few minutes, then wash
+and clean them well, and scrape the hair off, if any.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boiled.</i>&mdash;When prepared, you throw them in boiling water for two
+minutes and take from the fire; add four onions for four ears, one
+carrot, salt and pepper; leave just water enough to cover the whole, and
+when cooked, drain. Serve them on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of beans or of lentils.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, broiled.</i>&mdash;When cleaned, prepared, and cooked as above, just
+dip them in beaten eggs, roll them in bread-crumbs, place on the
+gridiron and on the fire, broil for about two or three minutes; then
+serve them with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PIG'S FEET.</h4>
+
+<p><i>Broiled, or &agrave; la Sainte Menehould.</i>&mdash;Split six feet in two, lengthwise,
+and soak them in tepid water for ten minutes, then envelop each in a
+piece of linen well tied or sewed; place them in a kettle or stewpan
+with four small onions, four sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two of
+sweet basil, two bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, two cloves, two small
+carrots cut in pieces, salt, pepper, and half a pint of white wine;
+cover with cold water, simmer about six hours, skim them properly, fill
+with boiling water so as to have them covered all the time; take from
+the fire when cooked, and when nearly cool take the feet from the
+kettle, untie them, throw away the linen, and let them cool. Dip each in
+melted butter or in sweet-oil, roll in bread-crumbs, and place on a
+gridiron and on a good fire; serve them as they are, when properly
+broiled.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;Prepare the feet and cook them as above. When perfectly
+cold, remove the long bone of each half, fill the place with
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[233]</a></span>
+sausage-meat; dip each in melted butter and yolk of egg, mixed and
+seasoned with salt and pepper, roll in bread-crumbs, and broil. While
+they are broiling, baste them with melted butter. Serve as they are, or
+with meat-jelly, or gravy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed with Truffles.</i>&mdash;Proceed as with the above in every particular,
+so far as removing the long bone of each half, so as to be ready for
+stuffing them.</p>
+
+<p>Cut truffles in small dice, enough to half fill the feet, and put them
+on the fire in a small saucepan, just covered with Madeira wine; toss
+and stir till the wine is absorbed and nearly boiled away, then add a
+little gravy, stir half a minute, take from the fire and let cool. When
+cold, fill each half foot till half full, and finish with sausage-meat;
+then dip in butter and egg, roll in crumbs, broil and serve as the
+above.</p>
+
+<p>They may be filled with truffles only, and served with meat-jelly.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PIG'S HEAD.</h4>
+
+<p>Soak in water and clean it well; take all the bones and flesh out; then
+cut the flesh and about one pound of salt pork in strips, which you put
+inside of the head, well mixed with salt, pepper, half a dozen
+middling-sized onions chopped, two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, half
+a saltspoonful of allspice, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, a
+little sage, and the juice of half a lemon; lay it in a crockery vessel
+for from four to six days. Envelop the head in a towel, place it in a
+kettle with eight small onions, two carrots cut in pieces, salt, pepper,
+four sprigs of parsley, four of thyme, four bay-leaves, two cloves, and
+a pint of white wine; cover with water, set on the fire, and simmer from
+six to eight hours; take from the fire and drain, take the towel off
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[234]</a></span>
+and drain again till dry and cold. Serve it with sprigs of green parsley
+around.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wild-Boar like</i>.&mdash;Prepare, stuff, cook, and allow it to cool as the one
+preceding; then place it on an oval dish, the ears up, with one or two
+skewers to hold them in place, and also two or three decorated skewers
+in the middle of the head and between the eyes&mdash;not across, but
+lengthwise. Glaze it with essence of beef, by means of a brush; make
+eyes with meat-jelly, which you cut with a vegetable spoon, and imitate
+the tongue, teeth, and tusks with butter colored with cochineal and
+kneaded with flour. Cover the back part with jelly and skewers
+ornamented with flowers or slices of truffles, or with both. Some jelly,
+chopped, may also be placed all around, and flowers in the ears and on
+the eyes. It is served as an <i>entr&eacute;e</i>, or for supper, lunch, or
+breakfast.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PIG'S KIDNEYS.</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare, cook, and serve like calf's kidneys.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PIG'S TAIL.</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare, cook, and serve like pig's ears.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PIG'S TONGUE.</h4>
+
+<p>Prepare, cook, and serve like beef tongue.</p>
+
+<p><i>Head-cheese</i>.&mdash;Soak a pig's head in cold water for two or three hours,
+clean, and then cut the whole of it, ears and tongue included, in strips
+one or two inches long, and then put the whole with about two pounds of
+salt pork, cut in strips also, in a crockery bowl, season with salt,
+pepper, chopped onion, chopped parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and sage,
+chopped also, the juice of a lemon, and leave thus for about two or
+three days, turning it over occasionally. Then put the mixture in a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[235]</a></span>
+mould or wrap it in a towel and boil till done. It must be immersed in
+the water.</p>
+
+<p>Some beet or sheep's tongue, together with the flesh of chicken, may be
+added to the head.</p>
+
+<p>When cooked and cold, if there are any empty places, they may be filled
+with meat-jelly.</p>
+
+<p>It is served at late suppers, or at lunch and breakfast. It is always
+served cold, with parsley around.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SUCKING-PIG.</h4>
+
+<p>A sucking-pig, to be good, must be fat.</p>
+
+<p>Then properly cleaned, and hoofs off, clean the inside, leaving the
+kidneys; skewer it, put in it half a pound of butter kneaded with
+chopped parsley and green onions, four or five mushrooms, and two white
+onions with a clove stuck in each; place it on the spit before a good
+fire, baste often with melted butter first, and then with the drippings,
+and when done serve on a <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Some truffles may be added to the seasoning, if handy; it gives it a
+good taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked</i>.&mdash;Stuff it as the above, place it in a baking-pan with just cold
+water enough to cover the bottom of the pan; put it in a quick oven,
+baste often, and when done serve with a <i>r&eacute;molade</i> or <i>vinaigrette</i>
+sauce.</p>
+
+<p>When roasted or baked, place it on a dish with slices of truffles,
+mushrooms, and parsley all around. Run some skewers through slices or
+truffles and whole mushrooms, and plant them in it like the one
+represented in the cut on the following page.</p>
+
+<p>A small red apple is placed in the mouth after it is cooked, to make
+room for which a stone is placed in the mouth before cooking it, in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[236]</a></span>
+order to keep the mouth open. It is served as warm as possible.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0236.jpg" width="547" height="301" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+<h4>A, skewer; B, slices of truffles; C, mushrooms</h4>
+
+<p><i>Boned</i>.&mdash;A sucking-pig can be boned and filled just the same as a
+turkey, and cooked and served alike also.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[237]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="POULTRY" id="POULTRY"></a>POULTRY.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Chickens, ducks, turkeys, and geese must be killed not less than
+twenty-four hours, and not more than three days in summer, nor less than
+two days nor more than six days in winter, before cooking them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>HOW TO PREPARE AND CLEAN.</h4>
+
+<p>To transport poultry, <i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Game</span>.</p>
+
+<p>Poulterers are of the opinion that the best and quickest way of killing
+poultry is by cutting the throat or the tongue. Tie the legs of the
+bird, hang it by the legs, then kill and let bleed. Some cut the head
+off and throw it away on the ground, but the poor things do not die so
+fast, and therefore suffer more.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the throat or tongue is cut, if the head is held down the
+bird dies sooner, as it allows the blood to run more freely, preventing
+the bird from bending and twisting its neck, and also from swallowing
+its blood.</p>
+
+<p>It is much better to pick the bird dry. By scalding, the skin is
+spoiled, and very often the flesh of a young and tender chicken is
+spoiled also, being blanched. When picked, singe the bird carefully, in
+order not to burn the skin.</p>
+
+<p>Split the skin on the back of the neck, from the body to near the head;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[238]</a></span>
+then detach the skin from the neck by pulling it downward and the neck
+upward; it gives you plenty of room to pull the crop out, which you do.
+Cut the skin off at about the middle of the neck, and the neck close to
+the body; that part of the skin of the neck is left to cover the place
+where the neck was cut off, by turning it on the back of the bird, and
+holding it with twine in trussing.</p>
+
+<p>Make an incision under the rump, lengthwise, and large enough to draw
+the bird easily.</p>
+
+<p>When drawn, wipe the inside of the bird with a towel, but do not wash
+it, except when you have broken the gall-bladder. If that should happen,
+cut the bird in pieces immediately and wash well in lukewarm water;
+never roast or prepare whole a bird that has had the gall-bladder broken
+in it in drawing it. <i>Saut&eacute;</i> it or prepare it in fricassee.</p>
+
+<p>If there should be any thing unclean on the outside, wipe it off, if
+possible, or otherwise cut the place off, or wash only the unclean
+place. A washed bird is a very inferior article. If you see that a bird
+cannot be cleansed properly except by washing it, do not buy it.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CHICKEN.</h4>
+
+<p><i>To select.</i>&mdash;Buy a chicken with white flesh and pale-yellow fat. If
+young, the cock has small spurs, the hen has the lower part of the legs
+and feet rather soft and smooth; those parts are rough in old ones.</p>
+
+<p>If the rump is hard and stiff, they are fresh enough; but if soft, it is
+necessary to examine the bird carefully; it might be tainted.</p>
+
+<p><i>To truss.</i>&mdash;When prepared as directed for poultry, put the bird on the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[239]</a></span>
+table on its back, and with a chopper or with a round stick flatten the
+breast-bone, which you break at a single blow if possible; the bird is
+much more sightly when served. Cut the legs off just above the first
+joint, or cut off only half of the claws and trim off the ends of the
+wings. Place the bird on a table, the breast up and the rump toward you.
+Push the legs under the skin, so that, by holding them perpendicularly
+and pressing on them, the part from the second to the third joint is
+alongside the chicken, or horizontally. Then run a trussing-needle, with
+twine attached to it, just above the bone of the leg, as near the second
+joint as possible, on the side (toward you) of the bone of the leg that
+is perpendicular, through the leg (which leg is the left one of the
+bird), body, and also through the bird, and at the same place, that is,
+as near the second joint as possible. Turn the bird upside down and the
+neck toward you; turn the ends of the wings on the back, as seen in the
+cut (p. <a href="#Page_240">240</a>), turn the skin of the neck on the back also, between or
+under the wings and in order to cover the place where the neck has been
+cut off, then run the needle again through the right wing, the skin of
+the neck and part of the body, and through the other wing. Tie the ends
+of the twine fast together.</p>
+
+<p>As it is, the legs of the bird, when on its back, are pointing upward.
+Bend them gently down till they are perpendicular and as seen in the
+cut, run the trussing-needle through both and also through the body,
+above the bones of the legs and under the end of the breast-bone; run it
+again the other way, but under the bones of the legs, tie the two ends
+of the twine together, and you have a bird trussed exactly like the one
+represented in the cut on next page.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[240]</a></span>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 736px;">
+<img src="images/0240a.jpg" width="736" height="260" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Another way to truss is, to cut only half of the claws, instead of
+cutting the legs at the first joint; but, to truss thus, the first joint
+must be partly cut as represented below. If the nerve were not cut, it
+would contract in cooking, and instead of being straight, the legs would
+point upward.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0240b.jpg" width="520" height="259" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>A bird stuffed is trussed exactly in the same way as above, with the
+exception that the skin of the neck must be sewed up with a
+trussing-needle before commencing to truss the legs, and the incision
+must also be sewed up as soon as filled and before trussing.</p>
+
+<p>The twine used to sew and truss the bird is removed just before dishing
+it.</p>
+
+<p>Some experiments have been made lately, in France, to find out the best
+way to kill chickens and make them tender. Those killed by electricity
+were more tender than any other, but they must be cooked immediately, as
+they become tainted in a very short time.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[241]</a></span>
+<p><i>To blanch.</i>&mdash;When cut in pieces as directed, throw it in boiling water
+to which a little salt has been added; boil two minutes and drain.</p>
+
+<p><i>To cut.</i>&mdash;To make a chicken <i>saut&eacute;</i> or in fricassee, it is generally
+cut into eight pieces; the two legs, the wings, one piece of the
+breast-bone, and three pieces of the back-bone. The ends of the wings,
+the lower part of the legs after being skinned by warming them, the
+neck, gizzard, heart, kidneys, and head, are put in the soup-kettle.
+Generally the bones of the legs above the second joint are removed by
+breaking them with the back of a knife just above the second joint. The
+ends of the small bones of the three pieces of the back-bone are trimmed
+off also.</p>
+
+<p><i>To dish and serve.</i>&mdash;Dish the pieces in the following order: the neck,
+gizzard, the fore part of the back and the low part of the legs in the
+middle; then one leg on each side of the dish, with one wing beside
+each, then the breast and hind part of the back, and lastly the ends of
+the wings at the top. If cut in eight pieces only, place the breast-bone
+on the middle of the dish, the hind part of the back-bone at one end of
+it and the two others at the other end; the legs and wings on each side.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boiled.</i>&mdash;A chicken is boiled only when it is an old one, whose
+tenderness is doubtful, and which is not needed to make broth or
+<i>consomm&eacute;</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Clean, prepare, and truss it as directed for poultry. Brown the bird in
+a saucepan with about one ounce of butter, then half cover it with cold
+water; season with a few slices of onion, same of carrot, two cloves,
+two stalks of parsley, salt and pepper. Boil gently about one hour and a
+half, and when done, dish the bird, strain the sauce over it, and serve
+warm.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[242]</a></span>
+<p>If the sauce boils away, add a little cold water; and if there is any
+fat on it, skim it off.</p>
+
+<p>An old chicken may be cooked especially to make a salad.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boned.</i>&mdash;Pick, bone, fill, cook, and serve a boned chicken exactly like
+a boned turkey; the only difference is, that it requires less filling,
+being smaller.</p>
+
+<p>For an extra, legs of large chickens may be boned and filled like the
+chicken, the rest being used for a fricassee.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Young, or what are called <i>spring chickens</i>, are broiled; an
+old one would not be as good.</p>
+
+<p>To broil, a chicken is split in two lengthwise, or the back only is
+split, so as to open it. Salt both sides and butter them slightly, then
+broil on a good but not sharp fire. Serve with a <i>ma&icirc;tre-d'h&ocirc;tel</i>,
+<i>piquante</i>, or <i>ravigote</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled hunter-like.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared, split the chicken in
+two lengthwise and place it in a crockery dish with the following
+seasonings: a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, a middling-sized
+onion in slices, two cloves, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of sweet-oil,
+and the juice of half a lemon. Half an hour after turn the chicken over,
+and after another half hour place the above seasonings all around the
+chicken, fasten them with paper, tie the paper with twine, and broil
+carefully on a rather slow fire, and turning over two or three times.
+When done, remove the paper in which they are enveloped, scrape off the
+slices without scratching the meat, and serve as warm as possible with a
+<i>ma&icirc;tre-d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, or <i>Madeira</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p>When an older chicken is prepared hunter-like, it is generally served
+with a <i>Tartar</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare a chicken as directed. Cut the neck
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[243]</a></span>
+off, also the legs at the first joint, split the breast in two so as to
+open the chicken, and flatten it with a chopper. Put about two ounces of
+butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire; when melted, add a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, stir for half a minute with a wooden
+spoon, then put the chicken in with salt and pepper; when about half
+fried on one side, turn it over and half fry the other side; then take
+off the chicken, roll it in chopped parsley and bread-crumbs mixed
+together, broil it properly and serve on a <i>Tartar</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p>A chicken broiled either way above described may also be served on a
+<i>B&eacute;chamel</i> or on a <i>cream</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Croquettes.</i>&mdash;The proportions that we give below are for half a
+middling-sized chicken.</p>
+
+<p>A chicken may be cooked especially to make <i>croquettes</i>, but it is
+generally made with cold meat.</p>
+
+<p>Chop the meat fine. Chop fine also half a middling-sized onion; fry it
+with one ounce of butter, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir
+for half a minute, then add also the chopped meat and a little over a
+gill of broth, salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, stir for about two
+minutes, take from the fire, mix two yolks of eggs with it, put back on
+the fire for one minute, stirring the while; lastly you add four
+mushrooms chopped, or two truffles, chopped also, or both, according to
+taste; do not put back on the fire, but turn the mixture into a dish,
+spread it and put it away to cool.</p>
+
+<p>When perfectly cold, mix it well, as the upper part is more dry than the
+rest; put it in parts on the paste-board, about a tablespoonful for each
+part. Have bread-crumbs on the paste-board, roll each part of the shape
+you wish; either round like a small sausage, or flat, or of a
+chop-shape; then dip each <i>croquette</i> or part in beaten egg, roll in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[244]</a></span>
+bread-crumbs again, and fry in hot fat. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>.)</p>
+
+<p>The best way to shape them, is to roll each part round first with a few
+bread-crumbs, then with a knife smooth both ends, while with the left
+hand you roll them gently, and if wanted flat, strike gently on them
+with the blade of a knife. If wanted of a chop-shape, when flat, shape
+with the hands and strike again to flatten them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Croquettes</i> are made with any kind of cold meat.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Fricassee.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and cut as directed. If the flesh is
+not white, blanch it. Put it in a saucepan, cover it with broth or cold
+water (broth is better than water), set it on the fire, and add one
+onion whole, and if covered with water, add also a bunch of seasonings,
+composed of three stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and one
+clove, boil gently till done. Put about two ounces of butter in a
+saucepan with one tablespoonful of flour, set on the fire, stir and mix
+while the butter is melting; then turn the broth or water in which the
+chicken has been cooked into this pan through a strainer, add salt, six
+mushrooms sliced, then the pieces of chicken; give one boil, dish the
+pieces as directed, mix a yolk of egg in the sauce, turn it over the
+chicken, and serve with or without a border of paste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Border of Paste.</i>&mdash;Knead well together, so as to make a rather thick
+paste, two whites of eggs with flour; spread it with a rolling-pin in a
+long strip about two inches and a half broad and one-fifth of an inch
+thick. Trim the sides if not straight; cut three rows of holes in the
+middle with a fruit-corer, then cut the strip of paste in two,
+lengthwise and in the middle of the middle row of holes. Cut it again
+across in pieces about three or four inches long. Put it in a warm place
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[245]</a></span>
+to dry till hard enough to keep in shape and still be pliable; warm the
+dish on which you wish to place it; beat the white of an egg just a
+little with a pinch of sugar, glaze the straight side of the paste with
+it; place it all around and on the border of the dish with the
+dentilated side up. Place the pieces of chicken inside of the border as
+directed above, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>The cut below represents the border. One, <i>a</i>, is the border before
+being cut in two, and <i>b</i> when cut.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0245.jpg" width="359" height="234" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>It may seem difficult to place the border at first, but it will be
+easily done after having tried once or twice, and following the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[246]</a></span>
+directions previously given. It is better to try when not in a hurry and
+before being wanted; that is, before you wish to serve it. The border
+may be made and placed on a dish without a chicken, it will be better
+for an experiment.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Fricass&eacute;e &agrave; la chevali&egrave;re or Parisienne.</i>&mdash;While the chicken is
+cooking as directed for <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>, prepare a garniture of
+<i>chicken-combs</i>, and, when the chicken is dished, place the garniture
+all around it, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Fran&ccedil;aise.</i>&mdash;While the <i>fricass&eacute;e</i> is being made, prepare a
+<i>garniture</i> of mushrooms or one of truffles, or both.</p>
+
+<p>Dish the chicken as directed, place a garniture of <i>mushrooms</i> or one of
+<i>truffles</i>, or both, tastefully all around, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>When a <i>fricass&eacute;e</i> is made for several persons, with two, three, four,
+or more chickens, three garnitures may be placed around the same dish,
+and, when carefully and tastefully arranged, it makes a sightly one.</p>
+
+<p>The three garnitures are, generally, of <i>chicken-combs</i>, <i>mushrooms</i>,
+and <i>truffles</i>; they may be also of <i>chicken-combs</i>, <i>quenelles</i> of
+chicken, and <i>croutons</i>; or, of <i>financi&egrave;re</i>, <i>truffles</i>, and
+<i>chicken-combs</i>; or a boiled <i>craw-fish</i> here and there, and two of any
+of the above-mentioned garnitures.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of a garniture, it may be served with a border of rice. (<i>See</i>
+<span class="smcap">Rice in Border</span>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>A la financi&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;This is a <i>fricass&eacute;e</i> of chicken served with a
+<i>financi&egrave;re</i> garniture.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au supr&ecirc;me.</i>&mdash;Chicken, or rather chickens, <i>au supr&ecirc;me</i> is a
+<i>fricass&eacute;e</i> made with the breasts of chickens only. Each side of the
+breast-bone is carefully detached in two long pieces called <i>fillets</i>;
+so that, with two chickens, there are eight pieces.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[247]</a></span>
+<p>To detach them properly, split the skin right on the breast-bone from
+the neck to the rump, then pull it off on both sides so as to have the
+whole breast skinned. Take hold of one wing with the left hand, and,
+with a sharp knife in the right, split or cut the joint off carefully,
+we mean the third joint of the wing, or that near the body; as soon as
+the joint is cut, by merely raising the back of the knife, leaving the
+edge on the cut joint and pressing gently on the chicken, you easily
+pull off the larger part of the half breast; detach the end of the other
+half with the point of the knife and pull it off also.</p>
+
+<p>Do the same for the other side.</p>
+
+<p>When the breasts or fillets are thus detached, prepare them as chicken
+in <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>, and serve with a border of paste, or with one of rice,
+as directed in the receipts above, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>What is left of the chickens is put in the broth-kettle, or used to make
+<i>consomm&eacute;</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another supr&ecirc;me.</i>&mdash;Detach the breasts of two chickens as above
+directed, then prepare the eight pieces or fillets as directed for
+chicken <i>saut&eacute;</i>. Ten minutes before taking from the fire, add and mix
+with the whole two or three truffles, weighing at least six ounces, and
+sliced; finish the cooling, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>To serve.</i>&mdash;Dish the pieces tastefully and according to fancy, and put
+the dish away in a warm place, then mix a <i>supr&ecirc;me</i> sauce with what you
+have left in the pan, sauce, truffles, etc., boil the whole till rather
+thick, stirring continually while it is boiling, turn over the pieces of
+chicken, and serve. The <i>supr&ecirc;me</i> sauce used in that case is generally
+made with very rich chicken gravy.</p>
+
+<p>Chickens <i>au supr&ecirc;me</i> is considered a very <i>recherch&eacute;</i> dish, and it is a
+rather expensive one. For a grand dinner, the breasts of six chickens
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[248]</a></span>
+are used, and all the other parts of the chicken are used to make
+chicken gravy with rich broth, and that gravy is, in its turn, used to
+make the <i>supr&ecirc;me</i> sauce that is mixed with the liquor in which the
+chicken has cooked.</p>
+
+<p>The broth used to <i>saut&eacute;</i> the chicken is generally rich, and very often
+two pounds of truffles are used with six chickens.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Bourguignonne.</i>&mdash;This is a <i>fricass&eacute;e</i> also, but instead of
+covering the chicken with broth or water, it is covered with white wine.</p>
+
+<p>Proceed, for the rest, and serve as <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Carrots.</i>&mdash;While you are cooking a chicken in <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>, prepare
+a dish of carrots <i>au jus</i> or <i>glazed</i>, for ornamenting the dish; cut
+the carrots with a vegetable spoon before cooking them.</p>
+
+<p>Dish the chicken as directed, place the carrots tastefully all around
+the meat, and serve warm. This dish was devised by a monk, and is often
+called <i>&agrave; la Saint Lambert</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Royale.</i>&mdash;This is nearly the same as <i>au supr&ecirc;me</i>; the only
+difference is, that the pieces of breast or fillets are larded with salt
+pork, and then cooked, served and decorated the same as described for
+<i>au supr&ecirc;me</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Marengo.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and cut up the chicken as for <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>.
+Put in a stewpan five teaspoonfuls of sweet-oil, and set on a good fire;
+when hot, put the chicken in with salt and pepper; turn over once in a
+while, till every piece is of a golden color, and nearly cooked, then
+add two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and one clove, tied
+together with twine; add also three or four mushrooms cut in slices, and
+if handy three or four truffles also cut in slices; when the whole is
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[249]</a></span>
+cooked, dish the pieces of chicken thus: the neck and gizzard, with the
+fore part of the back, and the low part of the legs in the middle, one
+leg on each side of the dish with one wing beside each, then the breast
+and hind part of the back, and the ends of the wings at the top. Have an
+Italian sauce ready, pour it on the chicken, place on the whole the
+pieces of mushrooms and truffles, also some <i>croutons</i> fried in butter,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Green Peas.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and truss the bird as directed for
+poultry, then cook it whole as a stewed chicken above. When done, dish
+the chicken, place peas <i>&agrave; l'Anglaise</i> all around, strain the sauce over
+the whole, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Larded with Truffles.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and truss a fat chicken. Make
+about two dozen small pegs, with truffles, about half an inch long and
+one-eighth of an inch in diameter. Take a skewer, make a hole in the
+flesh of the breast of the chicken, and put a truffle-peg into it. Put a
+dozen pegs in the same way on each side of the breast-bone, and cook and
+serve the chicken. It is either boiled, stewed, or roasted, and served
+as directed for either.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Tarragon.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for a stewed chicken, with the exception
+that it is cooked whole after being trussed as directed for poultry, and
+after having stuffed it with two ounces of butter kneaded with half a
+dozen stalks of tarragon chopped fine. Serve with a few stalks of
+tarragon around the dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and truss the chicken as directed. Place it
+on the spit slightly salted and buttered all around, or envelop it in
+buttered paper, or merely cover the breast with thin slices of salt pork
+tied with twine. Baste often, at first with melted butter, and then with
+the drippings.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[250]</a></span>
+<p>If the bird has been enveloped with paper, the latter must be removed
+about ten minutes before taking the chicken from the fire; do the same
+with the slices of salt pork.</p>
+
+<p>It takes from twenty-five minutes to one hour to roast a chicken, with a
+good fire. The time depends as much on the quality of the bird as on the
+size. With a skewer or a small knife, or merely by pressing on it with
+the fingers, anyone can learn how to tell when done, after having
+roasted only two or three. Even by the look of it, many persons can
+tell.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Water-cress.</i>&mdash;Dish the chicken when roasted, put fresh
+water-cress all around, remove the fat from the gravy, which you turn
+over the whole; add salt and pepper to taste, a little vinegar or
+lemon-juice, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sauces.</i>&mdash;When roasted, serve with the following sauces:
+<i>soubise</i>, <i>tarragon</i>, <i>oyster</i>, <i>tomato</i>, and <i>Proven&ccedil;ale</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Garnitures.</i>&mdash;Dish the bird when roasted as directed, and place
+one of the following garnitures around, and serve warm: <i>quenelles</i> of
+chicken or of veal, <i>Mac&eacute;doine</i>, and <i>cauliflowers</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Macaroni.</i>&mdash;Spread four ounces of macaroni <i>au jus</i> on a dish,
+place the roasted chicken on it, and serve the whole warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Butter.</i>&mdash;It may be served with its gravy and craw-fish or
+lobster-butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Chestnuts.</i>&mdash;When dished, surround the chicken with chestnuts
+glazed, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Pigeons.</i>&mdash;Dish the bird, place four roasted pigeons around, one
+at each end and one on each side; fill the intervals with green peas au
+jus, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>All the above may be decorated with skewers. Run the skewer in a
+<i>chestnut</i> and then in a <i>craw-fish</i>; or, in a <i>quenelle</i> and then in a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[251]</a></span>
+<i>chestnut</i> or <i>craw-fish</i>; or, in a <i>chicken-comb</i>, and in a <i>quenelle</i>,
+and stick it on the chicken. Two skewers only for a chicken make a fine
+decoration. Slices of <i>truffles</i>, of <i>mushrooms</i>, and <i>chicken-combs</i>,
+make fine as well as delicious decorations.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Put the chicken in a baking-pan, after being cleaned,
+prepared, and trussed. Salt and butter the breast, which must be upward,
+place a piece of buttered paper on it, and a little cold water in the
+bakepan. Set it in a warm, but not too quick oven; baste often with the
+liquor in the pan. If the water and juice are absorbed by the heat, add
+a little cold water, so as to have liquor to baste with. Remove the
+paper about ten minutes before taking from the oven. It takes about
+forty minutes to cook a chicken of middle size.</p>
+
+<p>Serve a baked chicken with <i>sauces</i> and <i>garnitures</i>, and <i>decorated</i>
+the same as if it were roasted, and as described in the above receipts.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;After being cleaned and prepared as directed, cut the chicken
+in pieces as for <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>. Put it in a saucepan with about an ounce
+of butter; set on the fire, stir now and then till it is of a golden
+color and pour off the fat, if any is in the saucepan. Add a
+tablespoonful of flour and stir half a minute, then add also broth
+enough to nearly cover the meat, half a pint of white wine, a bunch of
+seasonings composed of four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, half a
+bay-leaf, and one clove, the four tied together with twine; add salt,
+and one onion whole. Boil gently till done. Ten minutes before serving,
+add half a dozen mushrooms.</p>
+
+<p>Dish the pieces of chicken as directed for <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>, place the
+mushrooms over them, strain the sauce all over, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[252]</a></span>
+<p>If the chicken is done before the sauce is reduced or is rather thick,
+dish the meat and put it away in a warm place, boil the rest slowly till
+reduced, and then turn it over the meat. Serve with or without a border,
+as in a <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>. Truffles may be used instead of mushrooms, if
+handy, or liked. Water may be used instead of broth, but it is inferior.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;To be good <i>saut&eacute;</i>, the chicken must be young and tender.
+Clean, prepare, and cut as directed. Put about one ounce and a half of
+butter in a frying-pan, set it on the fire, and when melted put the
+pieces of chicken in, stir now and then till all the pieces have a
+golden hue; add a tablespoonful of flour, stir again for about one
+minute; then add also salt and pepper, half a pint of broth, or one gill
+of broth and one gill of white wine; boil gently for five or six
+minutes. Add again a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, five or six
+mushrooms cut in slices, keep it boiling gently till done, and serve
+warm.</p>
+
+<p>If the sauce is boiling away, or is found too thick, add a little broth.
+Use <i>Champagne</i>, <i>Sauterne</i>, or <i>Catawba</i> wine. It is much better with
+wine than without.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and cut the chicken as for <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>. Put
+it in a saucepan with about an ounce of butter, set on the fire, stir
+once in a while till all the pieces are of a fine golden color; then
+pour off the fat that may be in the pan. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of
+flour all over it, and stir for about half a minute, then add three or
+four shallots, or two or three small green onions, chopped fine,
+parsley, and three or four mushrooms, both cut in small pieces, a bunch
+of seasonings composed of four sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, and one clove, salt, and pepper.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[253]</a></span>
+<p>Stir often till cooked, and serve with a few drops of lemon-juice
+sprinkled on it when dished.</p>
+
+<p>Dish as directed for <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and cut the chicken in pieces as for
+<i>fricass&eacute;e</i>. Brown them in a saucepan with about one ounce of butter,
+then take the pieces off, add half a tablespoonful of flour to the
+butter, stir for one minute, then add also three or four mushrooms in
+slices, a small onion, and half a dozen sprigs of parsley chopped fine,
+stir for two or three minutes, then cover with half a pint of white wine
+and the same of broth, boil for ten minutes, put the pieces of chicken
+back into the pan, boil gently till done, and serve warm as it is.</p>
+
+<p>The pieces of chicken are dished as directed for <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed with Bread.</i>&mdash;Soak stale bread in cold water, and then squeeze
+the water out of it. Put one ounce of butter in a saucepan and set it on
+the fire; as soon as melted, add one middling-sized onion chopped fine,
+and stir till it turns rather yellow, then add the bread, stir two
+minutes; add again salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, two or three
+tablespoonfuls of broth; stir again two or three minutes, take from the
+fire, mix in it a yolk of egg, put back on the fire for half a minute,
+stirring the while, take off again, add a teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley, and use. Fill the crop (we mean the place where the crop was)
+and also the body or inside of the bird with the above mixture, truss it
+as directed; roast or bake it, and serve with the gravy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed with Sausage-meat.</i>&mdash;Set a saucepan on the fire with about half
+an ounce of butter in it; when melted add an onion chopped fine, stir,
+and, when nearly fried, add also the heart and liver of the bird,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[254]</a></span>
+chopped fine, four, six, or eight ounces of sausage-meat (according to
+the size of the bird), stir for about twelve minutes, take from the
+fire, mix a yolk of egg with it, also four or five mushrooms chopped, or
+one or two truffles, chopped also, put back on the fire for five
+minutes, stirring the while, take from the fire again, fill the prepared
+bird with the mixture, and as above, roast or bake it, and serve it with
+its gravy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed with Chestnuts.</i>&mdash;Roast chestnuts and skin them, removing also
+the white envelope that is under the outside skin. Fill the inside of a
+cleaned and prepared chicken till half full, add about one and a half
+ounces of butter, finish the filling; truss, roast or bake as directed,
+and serve the bird with its gravy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed with Truffles.</i>&mdash;The truffles, being preserved, do not require
+any preparation, half a pound is enough for a middling-sized chicken; it
+is not necessary to put any where the crop was.</p>
+
+<p>Salt and pepper the inside of the bird, and put in it also about a
+teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, then the truffles; sew the incision
+made to draw it; truss it as directed, and roast or bake.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, stewed.</i>&mdash;When stuffed, put four ounces of salt pork cut in
+dice in a saucepan, with slices of onion and carrot, place the chicken
+on them, season with four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf,
+and one clove tied together; half cover it with broth and white wine, of
+equal parts, set on the fire, boil gently till done, turning it over
+several times. Dish the bird, strain the sauce over it, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>After being stuffed with truffles, it may be kept two days before
+cooking.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;What is left from the previous day's dinner is known under the
+name of cold meat.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[255]</a></span>
+<p>For about half a chicken put one ounce of butter in a saucepan, and,
+when melted, turn into it a <i>financi&egrave;re</i> garniture, and half a pint of
+Madeira wine, boil gently about eight minutes, put the cold chicken cut
+in pieces in it; leave just long enough on the fire to warm it, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p>If not a roasted or broiled chicken, or part of either, you merely warm
+it in the <i>bain-marie</i> if possible, or on the fire, and serve as it is.</p>
+
+<p>If roasted or broiled, it is served in <i>blanquette</i>, thus:</p>
+
+<p>Cut up the meat in slices, have in a stewpan and on a good fire a piece
+of butter the size of two walnuts; when melted, sprinkle in it a pinch
+of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon the while; then pour in also,
+little by little, two gills of warm broth, same of boiling water, half a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and two or three small
+onions fried in butter; boil fifteen minutes. After that time subdue the
+fire, place the slices of chicken in the pan, and serve as it is when
+well warmed.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of onions, slices of pickled cucumbers may be used.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Cut up the chicken or part of it as for <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>. Put
+a little butter in a stewpan and set on the fire; when melted, sprinkle
+in it a little flour, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, same of
+chopped mushrooms, stir with a wooden spoon the while, two or three
+minutes after which add two gills of white wine, boil the whole fifteen
+minutes; then subdue the fire, put the pieces of chicken in the pan, and
+serve as it is when warm.</p>
+
+<p>It may also, after it is cut up, be served cold, with an oil,
+<i>piquante</i>, or <i>poivrade</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, in Fricass&eacute;e.</i>&mdash;An old chicken that has been used to make
+broth, either alone or with beef, when cool, or the next day, may be
+prepared just as a spring chicken in <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[256]</a></span>
+<p><i>In Salad.</i>&mdash;It is made with cold chicken, roasted or baked, with a
+whole one or part of it.</p>
+
+<p>Cut all the meat in dice and put it in a bowl.</p>
+
+<p>Cut just as much roasted or baked veal in dice also, and put with the
+chicken.</p>
+
+<p>Cut also about as much table celery as chicken, which put with the meat
+also. Season with salt, pepper, vinegar, and very little oil; stir and
+mix the whole well. Add also some lettuce, and mix again gently. Put the
+mixture then on a platter, making a small mound with it; spread a
+Mayonnaise-sauce all over it; decorate with hard-boiled eggs, cut in
+four or eight pieces, lengthwise; also with centre leaves of lettuce,
+capers, boiled beets, and even slices of lemon.</p>
+
+<p>A bard-boiled egg is cut across in two, then with a sharp knife scallop
+each half, invert them and run a small skewer through both, so as to
+leave the smaller end of both halves in the middle and touching; place
+the egg right in the middle of the dish, when the Mayonnaise is spread
+all over; plant the centre leaves of a head of lettuce in the middle of
+the upper half of the egg, with a few capers in it, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Some use mustard with a chicken salad; it is really wrong, because
+chickens and Mayonnaise-sauce are too delicate to use mustard with them.</p>
+
+
+<h4>CAPON.</h4>
+
+<p>A caponed chicken is cleaned, prepared, cooked, and served in the same
+and every way as a common chicken.</p>
+
+<p>A capon is almost always fat, larger than an ordinary chicken, and has a
+more delicate and tender flesh.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasted</i> and served in the different ways described for chicken, it
+makes a <i>recherch&eacute;</i> dish, also when stuffed with chestnuts or truffles,
+as a common chicken.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[257]</a></span>
+<p><i>Boiled.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare as directed above; rub the fleshy part with
+lemon, envelop it with slices of bacon, place it in a stewpan with one
+sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, one clove, a small carrot,
+two onions, salt, and pepper; cover with half water and half broth, and
+set on a moderate fire. When cooked, take the capon off, place it on a
+dish, and set it in a warm place; then boil the sauce till it is rather
+thick, when strain it on the capon, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, with Rice.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared as above, you place
+the capon in a stewpan, cover it with water, add one glass of broth, a
+bay-leaf, one clove, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a small carrot,
+two onions, salt, and pepper; boil ten minutes, then add also about four
+ounces of rice, soaked in lukewarm water before using it, and let simmer
+for two hours. Take the capon off, and in case the rice should not be
+found to be cooked enough, finish the cooking of it; then take off
+clove, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, carrot and onions, pour the remainder
+on the capon, and serve.</p>
+
+
+<h4>TURKEY.</h4>
+
+<p>Tame and wild are prepared and served alike.</p>
+
+<p>The legs of a young hen-turkey are black; the cock has small spurs, and
+also black legs.</p>
+
+<p>The shorter the neck the better and fatter the bird.</p>
+
+<p>An old hen has red and rough legs; the cock also has long spurs.</p>
+
+<p>The fatter they are the better; they cannot be too fat. The broader the
+breast the better; the skin must be white.</p>
+
+<p>It is fresh enough as long as the legs are not stiff.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boiled.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare turkey as directed for poultry.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[258]</a></span>
+<p>Put in a stewpan, large enough to hold a turkey, a piece of butter the
+size of a duck's egg, also a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, same of
+green onions, and four or five mushrooms; set it on a good fire, and, as
+soon as the butter is hot, lay the turkey in; turn over now and then
+till of a fine golden color, then take it from the pan, cover the breast
+with slices of bacon tied with twine, and put it back in the pan; add a
+pinch of allspice, six small onions, salt, pepper, a glass of white
+wine, and a pint of broth; simmer till cooked, dish it, strain the sauce
+on it, and serve. It takes about two hours to cook a turkey of middling
+size. A little warm broth should be added, in case the sauce boils away
+during the cooking.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and truss a turkey as directed for poultry,
+and, if the turkey is not fat, the breast may be larded with salt pork.
+Place it on the spit before a sharp fire, basting often with melted
+butter at first, and then with the drippings. It may be enveloped in
+buttered paper and tied with twine before placing it on the spit; the
+paper is removed ten or fifteen minutes before taking from the fire;
+serve with the gravy, after having skimmed the fat off.</p>
+
+<p>Some fresh water-cress is placed all around it, and on which you
+sprinkle vinegar or lemon-juice.</p>
+
+<p>A turkey may be served in every way as a roasted chicken&mdash;with sauces,
+garnitures, and decorated with skewers.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;When cleaned, prepared, and trussed, put the turkey in a
+baking-pan, spread a little butter on it, put a little cold water in the
+pan, the depth of about two-eighths of an inch, sprinkle salt all over,
+place a piece of buttered paper on it, and put in a quick oven. Baste
+often and turn the bird over and round, if necessary. It takes from one
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[259]</a></span>
+hour and a half to two hours to cook a turkey, according to size,
+quality, and also according to the degree of heat.</p>
+
+<p>It is served with the gravy only, after having removed the fat, or with
+sauces, garnitures, and decorations, described for roasted chicken.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oyster-Sauce.</i>&mdash;When roasted or baked as directed, serve warm with an
+oyster-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Currant Jelly.</i>&mdash;Roast or bake it, and then serve it with
+currant-jelly.</p>
+
+<p>It is also served with a cranberry-sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;An old turkey is more tender stewed than cooked in any other
+way.</p>
+
+<p>The fleshy parts may be larded with salt pork, if found too lean.</p>
+
+<p>Put in a large stew-kettle half a pound of bacon cut in slices, four
+ounces of knuckle of veal, three sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, six small onions, one carrot, cut in four pieces, three
+cloves, one clove of garlic, salt, pepper, and then the turkey; wet with
+a pint of white wine, same of broth, cover as nearly air-tight as you
+can, place in a moderately heated oven or on a moderate fire, let simmer
+(not boil) about two hours and a half, then turn it over, put back on
+the fire or in the oven for another two hours and a half, after which
+dish the turkey; strain the sauce and put it back on the fire to reduce
+it to a jelly, which you spread on it, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Many <i>connoisseurs</i> prefer the turkey served thus when cold; it does not
+cost any thing to try it, and it is very handy for a grand dinner, as it
+may be prepared one or two days in advance, and is just as good, if kept
+in a refrigerator.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed with Chestnuts.</i>&mdash;Roast chestnuts enough to fill the bird.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[260]</a></span>
+Skin them and remove also the white skin under the outer one. Fill the
+turkey with them, after having cleaned and prepared it; when about half
+full, put in it also from four to six ounces of butter; finish the
+filling with chestnuts; sew it up, truss it as directed, and roast or
+bake it. Serve with the gravy only.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed with Truffles.</i>&mdash;Chop fine about four ounces of truffles, and
+put them in a stewpan with about a pound of salt pork cut in dice; set
+it on a moderate fire; add salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a
+bay-leaf, a pinch of allspice, and a pinch of dried thyme; when hot, add
+also about two pounds of truffles, boil fifteen minutes, tossing now and
+then, and take from the fire. When nearly cool, put the whole in the
+turkey and sew it up; leave it thus, if fresh, four days in winter and
+one or two in summer; if not fresh, leave it a shorter time.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roast</i> or <i>bake</i> it as directed above, and serve with the gravy, freed
+from the fat part. This dish is considered exquisite by epicures.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed with Sausage-meat.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for chicken stuffed, in every
+particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Salt Pork.</i>&mdash;Place thin slices of salt pork on the breast of a
+prepared turkey, covering it entirely, and fastening the slices with
+twine; then the turkey is roasted or baked, and served with the gravy.
+The slices may be removed a little before taking from the fire, in order
+to color the meat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boned.</i>&mdash;Buy a good turkey, neither too old nor too fat, and picked
+dry. Singe the bird, but do not draw it. Cut the neck off about one inch
+and a half from the body. Cut also the wings off just above the second
+joint, and the legs just above the first joint; the third joint is the
+one nearest the body. Split the skin from the end of the neck to the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[261]</a></span>
+rump; use a small sharp-pointed knife; commence to run the knife between
+the bones and flesh, on one side, till you come to the third joint of
+the wings and legs. By twisting and raising both wings and leg, but one
+at a time, you easily crack the joint, and then separate it from the
+body with the knife. Continue to run the knife between the bones and
+flesh, on the same side, till you come to the breast-bone. Do the same
+on the other side. Pull out the crop and cut off the rump from the body,
+but without touching the skin, as the rump must come off with the skin
+and flesh. Then by taking hold of the bird by the neck with the left
+hand, and pulling the skin gently down with the right, you partly
+uncover the upper part of the breast-bone; then again run the knife
+between that bone and the flesh, on both sides, till you come nearly to
+the end or edge of the bone. Then lay the bird on its back, have
+somebody to take hold of it by the neck, having the breast of the bird
+toward you. All along the edge of the breast-bone there is no flesh
+between the bone and the skin. The bird being held as described above,
+take hold of the skin of the neck with your left hand, pulling gently
+downward, and with the knife detaching the skin carefully from the bone,
+the carcass coming off whole. Place the bird on the table, the inside
+up, pull out the bones of the wings and legs, scraping the flesh an
+around so as to leave it attached to the rest; pull or scrape off all
+the tendons of the legs; push legs and wings inside the bird; see that
+the rump is clean; cut off the ring under it if necessary. We warrant
+that anybody, with an ordinary amount of natural capacity, can bone a
+turkey or other bird by following our directions with care. We recommend
+persons doing it for the first time not to attempt to do it fast. Now
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[262]</a></span>
+have at hand about two pounds of sausage-meat seasoned as directed, two
+pounds of boiled ham, half a dozen boiled sheep's tongues or a smoked
+beef tongue (but really the former is better), a pound and a half of
+salt pork, and half a pound of truffles sliced (the latter if handy and
+if liked). Cut the ham, tongues, and salt pork in strips about four
+inches long, one inch broad, and a quarter of an inch thick. Spread the
+bird on the table, the inside up and the rump toward you; salt and
+pepper it; place three or four slices of salt pork here and there on it,
+then a layer of sausage-meat, strips of ham and tongue and salt pork
+alternately on the sausage-meat, slices of truffles if used, again
+sausage-meat, ham, etc., till there is enough to fill the bird well;
+that is, by bringing the two sides of the skin together, giving the bird
+a round form, it is perfectly full. It is impossible to give exact
+proportions; it depends not only on the size of the bird, but also on
+the quality and degree of fatness of the bird. In two of the same
+weight, one may require more than the other to fill it. When filled, and
+when the two sides of the skin are brought together as described above,
+sew up the cut with a trussing-needle and twine. Wrap up the bird
+tightly in a towel, tie the towel with a string, and run the string all
+around the towel to prevent it from opening at all. Take a kettle or
+saucepan of an oval shape and large enough to hold the bird, put enough
+cold water in it to cover the bird, also all the bones of the bird
+(broken in pieces), a small piece of lean beef, say one pound, a few
+stalks of parsley, two of thyme, two cloves, two cloves of garlic, a
+bay-leaf, twelve pepper-corns, a middling-sized carrot sliced, half a
+turnip, and salt. Set on the fire, and at the first boiling put the bird
+in; boil gently for about three hours if it is a turkey of middling
+size, two hours for a middling-sized chicken. When done it partly
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[263]</a></span>
+floats; that is, the upper part is above the liquor. Take it from the
+pan, take the towel off and rinse it in cold water; wrap the bird up in
+the towel again and in the same way as before; place it on a large dish,
+with the seam or back under; put another plate or dish over it with a
+weight on it, and leave thus overnight in a cool place. The next morning
+the bird will be perfectly cold and rather flattened; then remove the
+towel, also the twine with which it has been sewed, place it on the dish
+on which it is to be served, the breast upward; glaze it with essence of
+beef or glace; decorate with meat-jelly, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to decorate with Jelly.</i>&mdash;When the jelly is congealed and can be
+cut with a knife, chop some of it on a coarse towel and put it all
+around the bird, about half an inch thick; cut some in slices about a
+quarter of an inch in thickness; cut these again with paste-cutters in
+different shapes, according to fancy, and place it over the bird, also
+according to fancy; again cut some of it in slices about one inch broad,
+a quarter of an inch thick and of any length, and cut out of these last
+ones pieces of a triangular shape, which put all around the border of
+the dish, placed so that one point of each piece is turned toward the
+edge of the dish and the two other points touch the other pieces on both
+sides; then you have an indented border of jelly. When the jelly is
+fancifully and tastefully arranged, it makes a sightly dish.</p>
+
+<p>It is always served cold for breakfast, lunch, or supper.</p>
+
+<p>In summer the jelly melts, and cannot be used as a decoration. A boned
+bird is then served without jelly. The bird is cut in slices, and some
+jelly is served with each slice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;A turkey, being a large bird, is seldom entirely eaten the day
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[264]</a></span>
+it is served, and very often more than half of it is left for the next
+day. What is left may be prepared in different ways.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Vinaigrette.</i>&mdash;Cut the flesh in slices and serve them with a
+<i>vinaigrette</i>. It is not understood here for a boned turkey, which is
+always eaten cold, but either a roasted, baked, stewed, or stuffed
+turkey.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Croquettes.</i>&mdash;Proceed in every particular as for chicken
+<i>croquettes</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Salad.</i>&mdash;A salad of turkey is made also exactly the same as a salad
+of chicken, with cold meat. It is covered with a Mayonnaise-sauce and
+decorated in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the above ways of preparing cold turkey, it may also be prepared
+as directed for cold chicken in general.</p>
+
+<p>A caponed turkey is prepared as a caponed chicken, boiled or with rice;
+and also like a turkey, as described in the above receipts. They are
+generally larger, fatter, and more tender and juicy than others. They
+are very much appreciated here, and every year more and more are
+supplied, and, as in Europe, the greater the supply the better the
+quality. There is a ready market for caponed turkeys in all the large
+cities of the United States, and they command a high price.</p>
+
+
+<h4>DUCKS.</h4>
+
+<p>Ducks and ducklings, tame and wild, are prepared alike. To be good, a
+duck must be fat, be it a <i>canvasback</i>, <i>gadwell</i>, <i>black-duck</i>,
+<i>garganey</i>, <i>poachard</i>, <i>wood-duck</i>, <i>pintail</i>, <i>shoveller</i>,
+<i>spirit-duck</i>, <i>summer-duck</i>, <i>teal</i>, <i>widgeon</i>, <i>shelldrake</i>, or any
+other.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to select.</i>&mdash;A young duck has the lower part of the legs soft, and
+the skin between the claws soft also; you will also know if it is young
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[265]</a></span>
+by taking hold of it by the bill (the under bill only), if it breaks or
+bends, the duck is young.</p>
+
+<p>If the breast of the duck is hard and thick, it is fresh enough.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to prepare.</i>&mdash;A duck is cleaned and prepared as directed for
+poultry.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and truss the duck as a chicken, with the
+exception that the rump is pushed inside; the duck being much longer
+than a chicken, it is more sightly when so trussed.</p>
+
+<p>Place inside of the duck two sage-leaves, two bay-leaves, and two sprigs
+of thyme, and leave it thus in a cool place for two or three hours, and
+then roast it as directed for chicken.</p>
+
+<p>When roasted, serve it with any of the following garnitures: cabbage,
+cauliflower, <i>Mac&eacute;doine</i>, onion, or truffles.</p>
+
+<p>The fatty part of the gravy or drippings must be carefully and totally
+removed before turning it over the duck and garniture. It takes from
+thirty to forty minutes to roast.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;When cleaned, prepared, and trussed as directed for turkeys
+and chickens, put the duck in a bakepan, salt and pepper it, cover the
+bottom of the pan with cold water, and place it in a rather quick oven.</p>
+
+<p>A duck, being generally very fat, requires to be turned over and over
+several times and to be basted very often. It is not necessary to cover
+it with buttered paper. In case there is much fat in the pan, remove it
+while it is cooking.</p>
+
+<p>It is served as directed for roast duck, with garnitures.</p>
+
+<p>When roasted or baked, it is also served with apple or cranberry-sauce,
+or with currant-jelly.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[266]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Peas.</i>&mdash;Cut in dice about one ounce of salt pork and put it in a
+saucepan; set it on the fire, and, as soon as the butter is melted,
+brown in it a duck trussed as directed and take from the fire. Put one
+ounce of butter in a saucepan and mix it cold with a tablespoonful of
+flour, set it on the fire, and, when the butter is melted, put the duck
+in with about a quart of green peas, blanched for one or two minutes
+only; add about a pint of water or of broth, a bunch of seasonings
+composed of three or four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf,
+and one clove, salt, and pepper; boil gently till the whole is cooked,
+and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>Remove all the fat carefully before serving.</p>
+
+<p>If the water should boil away while it is cooking, add a little more.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Oranges.</i>&mdash;Roast or bake a young duck as directed, and serve it
+with carpels of orange all around; and sprinkle some orange-juice all
+over just before serving it.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Olives.</i>&mdash;Roast or bake the duck as directed. When done, turn the
+gravy into a small saucepan with about two dozen olives; stir gently,
+and keep on the fire for about five minutes. Dish the duck, place the
+olives all around; turn the gravy over the whole, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;, served with a Border.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and cut in eight pieces as
+directed, set it on the fire with one ounce of butter, stir occasionally
+till turning brown, then pour off the fat from the saucepan, add broth
+enough just to cover the pieces of duck; also one onion with a clove
+stuck in it, a bunch of seasonings tied with twine and composed of four
+stalks of parsley, one of thyme, and a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper; boil
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[267]</a></span>
+gently till done. Place the pieces of duck inside of a border of rice,
+strain the sauce over the duck only, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p>The rice must be cooked, moulded, and placed on the dish while the duck
+is cooking, so as to serve the whole warm. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Rice in Border</span>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>To cut.</i>&mdash;A duck is generally cut in eight pieces, the two legs and
+wings, the breast in two, and the back-bone in two.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Turnips.</i>&mdash;Truss the duck as directed for birds. Put one ounce of
+butter in a saucepan, set it on the fire, and, when melted, put the duck
+in, turn over now and then till it is brown on every side. Then add a
+piece of onion chopped fine, stir, and, when turning brown also, add
+water enough to half cover it; also a bunch of seasonings composed of
+three sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove; boil
+gently till done, when add salt to taste.</p>
+
+<p>While the duck is cooking, cut two turnips in dice or in round pieces
+with a fruit-corer, or with a vegetable spoon, set them on the fire with
+cold water and salt, boil till tender, and drain them.</p>
+
+<p>Put them back on the fire with the sauce or gravy from the saucepan in
+which the duck has cooked, give one boil, dish the duck, place the
+turnips around, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Cut the duck in pieces. Set a saucepan on the fire with
+an ounce of butter in it, when melted, add half a tablespoonful of
+flour, stir, and, when turning brown, add half a dozen small turnips or
+two large ones, cut with a vegetable spoon; stir, and, when they are all
+browned, take them off and brown the pieces of duck; then put the
+turnips back in the pan, add broth enough just to cover the whole; also
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[268]</a></span>
+two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, salt, and
+pepper; boil gently till cooked; dish the duck and turnips, turn the
+sauce over them through a strainer, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;What is left from the preceding day's dinner is prepared in
+<i>salmis</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Very often a duck is baked, especially to make a <i>salmis</i> with it.
+(<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Salmis</span>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Boned.</i>&mdash;Bone, fill, cook, and serve as turkey boned.</p>
+
+<p>Cold duck may also be prepared in <i>croquettes</i> and salad, like chicken.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;It is stuffed with sausage-meat and chestnuts, also like a
+chicken.</p>
+
+
+<h4>GEESE AND GOSLINGS&mdash;TAME OR WILD.</h4>
+
+<p>A young goose has much down and soft legs of a yellow color; an old one
+has little down and rough legs of a reddish color. When fresh, the legs
+are soft; and stiff and dry when not fresh.</p>
+
+<p>Geese and goslings are prepared, cooked, and served like ducks, in the
+following ways: roasted and baked, and served with garnitures, with
+cranberry-sauce, currant-jelly, apple-sauce, with a border, olives,
+oranges, peas, or turnips; in <i>croquettes</i> and in <i>salmis</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is boned, cooked, and served, like a boned turkey.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Civet.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and cut the goose in pieces, removing most
+of the fat, and then cook, and serve it like rabbit in civet.</p>
+
+<p>It takes a little longer than to cook a rabbit, but makes a very good
+dish.</p>
+
+<p>When the civet is properly made, it does not taste like goose.</p>
+
+
+<h4>GUINEA-FOWLS.</h4>
+
+<p>A young Guinea-bird is good, but an old one is hardly fit to be eaten.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[269]</a></span>
+<p>Guinea-fowls are prepared and served like prairie-hens.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PIGEONS.</h4>
+
+<p>The stall-fed or squab is prepared the same as the wild one.</p>
+
+<p><i>To select.</i>&mdash;If the legs are not red, they are young; and if not stiff,
+they are fresh. When not fresh, the rump is of a bluish color.</p>
+
+<p>Clean and prepare them as directed for fowls.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Split the backs of the pigeons so as to open them, flatten
+them a little with a chopper. Put two ounces of butter (for six pigeons)
+in a saucepan, and set it on a good fire; when hot, add to it a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, salt, and pepper; then
+the pigeons. When half cooked, take them from the fire, roll them in
+bread-crumbs, place them on the gridiron and set on a moderate fire,
+turn over once or twice, and, when done, serve on a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>,
+<i>piquante</i>, or <i>poivrade</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When cleaned, prepared, and split open as directed
+above, salt and pepper them, grease them slightly with melted butter, by
+means of a brush; then broil them till underdone, and serve with a
+<i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Chartreuse.</i>&mdash;A <i>chartreuse</i> with pigeons is made and served as a
+<i>chartreuse</i> of prairie-hens.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Papillotes.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared as directed, bake the
+pigeons till about half done, then split them in two, lengthwise, and
+then proceed as for <i>veal cutlets</i> in papillotes.</p>
+
+<p>They may be fried with a little butter, instead of baked.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Vegetables.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare as directed for poultry, four
+pigeons. Cut them in four pieces each.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[270]</a></span>
+<p>Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter, and set it on the fire; when
+melted, brown the pigeons in it, and then take them from the pan.</p>
+
+<p>The pigeons being taken off, put into the pan, which is kept on the
+fire, half a carrot and two onions sliced, half a turnip, sliced also;
+four or five stalks of parsley, one of thyme, one of celery, a bay-leaf,
+two cloves; the latter five tied together. Cover the whole with broth or
+water; boil gently till about half done, then add the pieces of pigeons,
+and salt and pepper; continue boiling till the whole is done.</p>
+
+<p>Dish the pigeons, throw away the seasonings, mash the carrot, onions,
+and turnips through a colander, which you mix with the sauce. Place the
+mixture around the pieces of pigeons, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;It is stuffed, cooked, and served like a stuffed chicken.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, stewed.</i>&mdash;Put a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a
+stewpan, and set it on a good fire; when hot, add two ounces of bacon
+cut in dice, then place in four pigeons, leave thus till of a fine
+golden color, and then take pigeons and bacon off the pan. Put again in
+the stewpan the same quantity of butter as before; when melted, sprinkle
+in, little by little, a teaspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden
+spoon, and when of a proper thickness, and of a brownish color, put the
+pigeons and bacon back in, add four small onions, two sprigs of parsley,
+one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a pinch of allspice, salt, pepper, half a
+glass of broth, same of claret wine; simmer about an hour, take off
+parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, and send to the table.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, roasted.</i>&mdash;Envelop each pigeon in thin slices of bacon tied
+with twine, place them on a spit before a moderate fire, baste often
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[271]</a></span>
+with the drippings, and, when cooked, serve them with the gravy, at the
+same time sprinkling a few drops of lemon-juice on them. It takes from
+thirty to thirty-five minutes to roast them.</p>
+
+<p>To roast or bake they are trussed like a chicken, as seen in the cut
+below. To carve pigeons is easy, they are merely split in two,
+lengthwise.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0271.jpg" width="270" height="197" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Place a thin slice of fat salt pork or bacon on the breast of
+each pigeon, after being cleaned, prepared, and salted; place them in a
+bakepan, on their back; cover the bottom of the pan with cold water and
+put in a hot oven, baste often, and when done serve them with
+water-cress and lemon-juice.</p>
+
+<p>The pigeons are placed on the dish the same as they were in the bakepan;
+place water-cress between each, also all around and in the middle of
+them; sprinkle lemon-juice all over, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Green Peas.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared, truss the pigeons and put
+them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter for half a dozen,
+stir now and then till turning rather brown all around and take off;
+then put in the saucepan about two ounces of salt pork cut in dice,
+stir, and, when partly fried, take it off also. The pan being still on
+the fire, put into it a good tablespoonful of flour, stir till it turns
+brown, when you add about a quart of broth, stir and mix; put pigeons
+and salt pork back into the pan, season with a bunch of seasonings,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[272]</a></span>
+composed of half a dozen stalks of parsley, one of thyme, two
+bay-leaves, a clove, and one clove of garlic. Boil gently till nearly
+half done, and then add a quart of green peas, blanched previously; boil
+again gently till the whole is done; remove the bunch of seasonings and
+the clove of garlic; dish the pigeons, turn the peas in the same dish,
+but in the middle of the pigeons, which can be tastefully placed all
+around the dish; strain the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Prepare and truss the pigeons the same as for the
+above, and proceed also as for the above in every particular, except
+that you do not put in the saucepan quite as much broth, a pint is
+sufficient, and boil gently till done, but do not add peas.</p>
+
+<p>Ten minutes before taking from the fire, add a dozen mushrooms, whole or
+sliced, and half a gill of claret wine, if handy.</p>
+
+<p>Dish the pigeons, place the mushrooms in the middle of the dish, strain
+the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Take four pigeons, cut each in four pieces, put two ounces of
+butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire; when melted, put the pigeons
+in with two or three sprigs of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, a pinch of allspice, salt, pepper, and half a pint of broth.
+Take the pigeons off when half cooked, and, as soon as they are cool,
+dip each piece in beaten eggs and roll it in bread-crumbs. Strain the
+butter that may be left in the stewpan, and put it in a frying-pan with
+about an ounce more, and fry the birds for about two minutes; serve with
+water-cress or parsley all around.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Compote.</i>&mdash;Roast six pigeons as directed. Then cut one of them in
+dice, put it in a mortar and pound it. Put half an ounce of butter in a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[273]</a></span>
+saucepan, and, when melted, fry half an onion chopped fine in it; then
+add to the pounded pigeon about a gill of gravy, a gill of good broth,
+salt, pepper, a bunch of seasonings, composed of three stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove; also about a gill of
+Madeira wine or white wine, boil gently till reduced about one-third,
+strain. Put back on the fire, add butter, and when melted stir and set
+it on the corner of the range to keep warm while the rest is prepared.
+Cut the other five pigeons in two, lengthwise. Cut ten pieces of bread
+square, or of an oval shape, and about the size of a half pigeon, fry
+them with a little butter, and place them on a dish. While the bread is
+frying, put the pigeons in an oven to warm them; place half a pigeon on
+each slice of bread, or one lapping over the other; have the slices and
+pigeons so arranged that they fill the dish, leaving only a small space
+in the middle, into which you pour the sauce; serve the whole hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Crapaudine.</i>&mdash;When prepared, split open the backs of the pigeons;
+cut the legs at the first joints and run them through the skin so that
+the ends come out on the inside; dip the bird in beaten eggs, roll them
+in bread-crumbs, and broil them.</p>
+
+<p>While they are broiling, knead butter, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice
+together; spread some on the pigeons when they are dished, and serve
+warm.</p>
+
+
+<h4>GIBLETS.</h4>
+
+<p>By giblets are understood the gizzards, heads, legs, livers, necks, and
+ends of the wings of chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, and other birds,
+tame or wild.</p>
+
+<p>You begin by cleaning them well, cut off the bills, take the eyes out,
+warming the legs on live coals, so that you can take off the outer skin
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[274]</a></span>
+and spurs; place the giblets in a tureen, turn boiling water and a
+little salt on them, leave them thus five or six minutes, then wash well
+and drain them.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Fricass&eacute;e.</i>&mdash;Put a piece of butter in a stewpan (the size to be
+according to the quantity of giblets you have), set it on a good fire;
+when melted, sprinkle in it, little by little, a teaspoonful of flour;
+stir the whole with a wooden spoon; when of a proper thickness, and of a
+brownish color, add half a gill of warm broth, same of warm water, a
+sprig of parsley, a small pinch of grated nutmeg, two small onions,
+salt, and pepper; then the giblets. About half an hour after add also
+two mushrooms, cut in pieces. It takes about two hours to cook them
+properly. Dish the pieces, strain the sauce, mix in it one well-beaten
+yolk of an egg, and a few drops of lemon-juice; pour it on the giblets,
+place the pieces of mushrooms over the whole, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, stewed.</i>&mdash;Put the giblets in a stewpan with butter, and set
+it on a good fire; when they are of a fine yellow color, add one or two
+sprigs of parsley, a clove of garlic, a sprig of thyme, one clove, half
+a bay-leaf, two mushrooms cut in pieces, two small onions, and a pinch
+of flour; wet with broth, let simmer gently for half an hour, and add
+also two parsnips cut in slices, and previously half fried in butter;
+simmer again for about an hour; dish the pieces of meat, strain the
+sauce, put it back on the fire to reduce it a little, pour it on the
+giblets, place the pieces of mushrooms at the top, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;They may also be prepared and served as a <i>chicken saut&eacute;</i>.</p>
+
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[275]</a></span>
+<h4>ASPIC OF MEAT.</h4>
+
+<p>Cut four middling-sized onions in slices, lay them in a stewpan with a
+quarter of a pound of bacon (not smoked); then add about a quarter of a
+pound of each of the following meats: chicken, game (any kind), mutton,
+and beef, also a calf's foot split in two, two ounces of rind of bacon,
+two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, a clove of garlic, two carrots cut
+in two, one clove, and four small onions; wet with half a pint of water,
+and set on a brisk fire; cover the pan well. When nearly cooked, take
+the grease off with a ladle; add then boiling water enough just to cover
+the whole, and finish the cooking. Strain the juice, skim off the fat,
+if any, and let it cool; if it is not found clear enough when strained,
+beat well two whites of eggs, put them in the stewpan with the juice,
+set it on a sharp fire for about ten minutes, stirring the while, and
+take from the fire; add to it a few drops of lemon-juice, and strain
+again.</p>
+
+<p>Put in a mould some of the above juice, about two-eighths of an inch in
+depth; place the mould on ice, and leave till the juice has turned into
+a jelly. Lay on that jelly some of the following meats, free from bones,
+and not allowing the pieces to touch the sides of the mould: chicken,
+game, tongues of beef, calf, and sheep, of all or of either of them (the
+meats must be cooked beforehand). Cover the whole with the remainder of
+the juice, so as to have about the same thickness at the top as at the
+bottom. Place the mould in a refrigerator to cool, and turn into a
+jelly; then dip the mould in very warm water, turn over on a dish,
+remove the mould, and you have a fine <i>entr&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[276]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="GAME" id="GAME"></a>GAME.</h2>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Game</span>, comparatively, is appreciated only by a few.</p>
+
+<p>When the country was first settled, every one was his own provider, and
+of course game was not sent to a market several hundred miles from the
+place where it was shot or caught. But settlement and civilization have
+the same effect on game as they have on barbarians or savages&mdash;they
+drive it away.</p>
+
+<p>Our Northeastern cities are now supplied by the Western States with
+game. In winter time, game may be kept for weeks without being spoiled
+or losing its natural flavor and taste, when kept where it is killed;
+but when transported, it is very different. To transport it requires
+packing. As soon as packed, it naturally ferments; and even if packed
+when frozen, the middle of the barrel will ferment and become injured,
+if not entirely rendered unfit for the table.</p>
+
+<p>The packing of game or poultry in barrels is a bad practice. Nothing
+requires more ventilation than game while being transported. Many
+dealers have their game sent to them in wicker-baskets with plenty of
+straw, but the greater part is still sent in barrels; hence the musty
+taste when cooked.</p>
+
+<p>To keep game for some time when fresh, open the animal or bird under the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[277]</a></span>
+rump, just enough to take the inside out, also the crop of birds, being
+very careful about the gall-bladder; if it bursts, it is better not to
+try to preserve the piece, but to clean, wash, and use it as soon as
+possible. Birds must be left in their feathers, and animals in their
+skins. Fill the inside with dry and clean oats, and put the piece in a
+heap or barrel of oats. It will keep thus for many days.</p>
+
+<p>Another way is to envelop the piece well in a towel, and bury it in
+charcoal dust in a cool and dry place.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to clean and prepare.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare the birds as directed for
+poultry in general.</p>
+
+<p>After having carefully skinned, take out the inside, and cut the legs
+off at the first joint of animals; wash the inside with lukewarm water,
+and wipe it dry with a clean towel immediately after; wipe also the
+outside, but do not wash it if possible; that is, if you can clean it
+well by wiping only.</p>
+
+<p><i>Wild ducks</i>, <i>geese</i>, <i>pigeons</i>, and <i>turkeys</i>, are prepared, cooked,
+and served like tame ones.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bear-meat and Buffalo.</i>&mdash;The meat of all large animals is better
+roasted, than dressed in any other way. Prepare, cook, and serve bear
+and buffalo meat like venison, beef <i>&agrave; la mode</i>, or stewed.</p>
+
+<p>Bear-meat has highly nutritive qualities, and is very warming.</p>
+
+<p>Buffalo-steaks are said to be better broiled on cinders without a
+gridiron, than on or before coals with one; that is, Indian fashion and
+even hunters' fashion.</p>
+
+<p>Indians often use wood-ashes as a substitute for salt, and never use
+salt with buffalo-meat; but their liking or preference comes from their
+habit of invariably broiling buffalo-meat on wood cinders or
+buffalo-chips.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bear-hams</i>, so well appreciated everywhere, are prepared and served
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[278]</a></span>
+like common hams. A bear-ham, tastefully decorated, is considered a
+<i>recherch&eacute;</i> dish at supper for evening parties.</p>
+
+<p><i>Blackbird</i>, <i>Bobolink</i>, and <i>Small Birds</i>.&mdash;The cut below represents
+six small birds on the spit, ready for <i>roasting</i>. When the birds are
+prepared, cut off the ends of the wings and the legs above the first
+joint. Instead of cutting the legs above the first joint, the ends of
+the claws only may be cut off, according to taste. Cut thin slices of
+fat salt pork, of a proper size to cover the breast of the bird; place
+the slice on the breast of it, run a skewer through the middle of the
+bird, so that it will run through the two ends of the slice of salt pork
+also, as seen in the cut.</p>
+
+<p>Have a skewer, or merely a piece of wire, long enough to hold six birds;
+fix the skewer on the spit, and roast.</p>
+
+<p>When the six birds are on the skewer, fasten them with twine, to prevent
+them from turning round, as seen in the cut.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0278.jpg" width="495" height="119" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Small birds are cleaned and prepared as directed for poultry, but they
+are not trussed, their legs being tied while tying the salt pork. While
+roasting, they are basted often with the drippings. Some water-cress and
+lemon-juice sprinkled upon them may be served with the birds. The twine
+is removed before serving, and they must be served hot; if allowed to
+cool at all, they lose their taste. It takes from ten to fifteen minutes
+to roast.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Prepare them exactly as for roasting: place the wire or skewer
+across a baking-pan, turn them round and baste often; serve also as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[279]</a></span>
+above, with the gravy, and with or without water-cress.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>bobolink</i>, <i>reed-bird</i>, and <i>rice-bird</i> are the same; they are
+called under these different names at different seasons and in different
+localities; it is the American ortolan, the most delicate of small
+birds; the robin comes next.</p>
+
+<p><i>To eat it &agrave; la Brillat-Savarin.</i>&mdash;Take hold of the bird by the bill;
+open your mouth wide enough to introduce the whole bird into it easily;
+then shut it, at the same time biting off the bill just at its base;
+chew properly and swallow.</p>
+
+<p>While the birds are roasting or baking, place as many small slices of
+bread in the dripping or baking pan, and serve a bird over each slice.
+Cut the slices either square, round, or oval, about one-fourth of an
+inch in thickness, and large enough to hold the bird.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hunter-like.</i>&mdash;Prepare small birds as described for quails,
+hunter-like; it makes an excellent dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Salmis.</i>&mdash;Roasted or baked small birds can be prepared in <i>salmis</i>
+when cold. Many amateurs prefer small birds not drawn; that is, the crop
+only is taken off, but nothing of the inside is disturbed; they pretend
+that they have a better taste when cooked thus; of course, every one to
+his taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>High-holders</i>, <i>lapwings</i>, <i>meadow-larks</i>, <i>plovers</i>, <i>rails</i>,
+<i>robins</i>, <i>snipes</i>, <i>thrushes</i>, <i>woodcocks</i>, <i>woodpeckers</i>, and
+<i>yellow-birds</i> are prepared as above.</p>
+
+<p>Small birds have a better flavor when cooked after being somewhat
+seasoned than when cooked fresh, but they must not be tainted. As long
+as the rump is stiff, they are good; if soft, they must be examined
+carefully, as they might be tainted. When young, there is no stiffness
+in the legs. Small birds are generally put by the half dozen on the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[280]</a></span>
+same skewer, as seen in the cut (p. <a href="#Page_278">278</a>); but when a little larger, like
+the robin or plover, they may be trussed as directed for snipes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Grouse or Heathcock.</i>&mdash;These are good as long as the legs are flexible;
+if not, examine them carefully, they might be rotten inside.</p>
+
+<p>Lard them well, envelop each in buttered paper, and place on the spit
+before a good fire; baste often, remove the paper after twenty or
+twenty-five minutes; leave two or three minutes more, basting
+continually with the drippings; dish the birds; mix with the drippings a
+few drops of lemon-juice, and a little salt and pepper, and serve with
+the birds.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Lard the bird as for roasting; that is, the fleshy parts only
+are larded with salt pork, then truss them as directed for chicken,
+place them in a baking-pan, cover the bottom of the pan with cold water,
+put a piece of buttered paper on each bird, place in a hot oven, baste
+often till done. Serve with the gravy some water-cress, and lemon-juice,
+or vinegar.</p>
+
+<p>It is also prepared, cooked, and served in the different ways described
+for prairie-hen, either in <i>chartreuse</i>, <i>salmis</i>, salad, or any other
+way.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hare.</i>&mdash;No hares have yet been found in the United States, except in
+California. The reported hare of the Western prairies is, as far as
+known, a species of rabbit. That found in the Eastern markets comes from
+Canada and Europe. The Canadian hare is very inferior in quality.</p>
+
+<p><i>To select.</i>&mdash;When young it has rather soft paws, and not much opened,
+and also soft ears; but if old, the paws are hard and much worn, and the
+ears stiff and hard. If fresh, the body is stiff; it is soft, and the
+flesh is nearly black, if tainted. Save the blood as much as possible;
+it improves the sauce very much.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[281]</a></span>
+<p><i>In Civet.</i>&mdash;When the hare is cleaned as directed for game, cut in
+pieces. Have in a saucepan and on a good fire two ounces of butter and
+one of salt pork cut in dice. Stir, and when the salt pork is fried take
+it off the pan, and put the pieces of hare in it; stir with a wooden
+spoon now and then, till of a fine golden color; then sprinkle on it a
+teaspoonful of flour, add ten small onions, four sprigs of parsley, two
+of thyme, two cloves of garlic, a bay-leaf, salt, pepper, about a pint
+of claret wine, same of broth, three or four mushrooms, and a little
+grated nutmeg; boil gently till done; dish the pieces of hare; throw
+away parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and garlic; mix the blood of the hare, if
+any, in the sauce, boil it about ten minutes longer, turn it on the
+hare, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>Many epicures like a civet better when prepared one or two days in
+advance, and only warmed before serving. When the civet is done, and
+ready to serve, place the dish in a cool, dry place, and when you want
+to eat the civet, place the dish in a <i>bain-marie</i>, or in an oven, and
+serve when warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, roasted.</i>&mdash;Lard the hare well; place it on the spit before a
+good fire; baste often with the drippings, and when properly cooked
+serve it with the following sauce: put in a stewpan a piece of butter
+the size of a walnut, and set it on a good fire; when melted, put in it
+the hare's liver well pounded, then the blood, if any, also the
+drippings, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of white wine, same of broth,
+and one teaspoonful of vinegar; when of a proper thickness, serve with
+the hare.</p>
+
+<p>It takes about an hour to roast it well.</p>
+
+<p>In a small family, the hind part is roasted, and the fore part of the
+hare is dressed in civet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Lard it with salt pork and bake it, basting often: serve in
+the same way as a roasted one.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[282]</a></span>
+<p><i>The same, next day.</i>&mdash;If any is left from the day before, warm it and
+serve, if in civet; cut in slices and serve cold, with an oil-sauce, if
+roasted.</p>
+
+<p><i>Leveret.</i>&mdash;Cook and serve like a hare.</p>
+
+<p>A leveret may also be <i>saut&eacute;d</i> like a chicken.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pheasant, to select.</i>&mdash;When young, the claws are short and round at the
+end, while they are long and sharp when old. They are not fresh when the
+rump is of a bluish color, but some amateurs like them then; in that
+state, they are said to have a venison taste. Some hang the bird by the
+feathers of the tail and leave it so till it falls; then they prepare
+and eat it. It does not fall until very "high," or rather when tainted.
+They ought not to be cooked when very fresh, as they have not as
+delicate a taste then as when rather "high."</p>
+
+<p><i>Pheasants</i> are prepared, cooked, and served like <i>prairie-birds</i> in
+every way.</p>
+
+<p><i>Crane, Ostrich, Peacock, Pelican, or other Large Birds.</i>&mdash;These birds
+are seldom eaten. When old, they are tough, and of a disagreeable taste.
+When young, they are not so bad, and may be prepared like a turkey
+stuffed or stewed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Prairie-bird, Prairie-hen, and Partridge.</i>&mdash;An old prairie-hen has a
+white bill and bluish legs; when young, the bill is of a rather
+dark-gray color, and the legs are yellowish. As long as the rump does
+not turn bluish, it is fresh enough.</p>
+
+<p><i>To prepare.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare a prairie-hen as directed for poultry
+in general.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare the bird as directed, then cut off the claws
+to about half their length. Truss the prairie-hen as directed for
+chicken, and then cover its breast with a thin slice of fat salt pork,
+but do not cover the back of the bird. Tie the salt pork with twine.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[283]</a></span>
+Place the prairie-hen on its back in the baking-pan, with a piece of
+butter the size of a walnut on it; set it in a quick oven (about 400
+deg. Fahr.), baste often, and serve when rather underdone. While the
+bird is baking, prepare some fresh water-cress, place some of it all
+around the bird; mix lemon-juice with the gravy and turn it over the
+bird and water-cress, and serve warm. It may also be served after being
+baked, the same as directed for a roasted one.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare as directed, then split the back of the
+prairie-hen so as to open it; salt, pepper, and butter it by means of a
+brush; place it on the gridiron over a good fire; turn over three or
+four times; as soon as done, sprinkle on it a little allspice, dish the
+bird, spread a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce on it, and serve warm. It is also
+served with a <i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, or <i>ravigote sauce</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Split the prairie-hen in two lengthwise so as to make
+two equal pieces. Put one ounce of butter in a stewpan and set it on a
+good fire; when melted, lay the two halves of the bird in; turn over and
+leave them till a little more than half cooked, when take them off.
+Envelop each piece in buttered paper, place them on the gridiron, and
+set it on a rather brisk fire for about fifteen minutes, turning over
+once only, and serve with the following sauce: Put with the butter in
+the pan in which was the bird, about a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+same of chopped mushrooms, salt, pepper, and a pinch of allspice;
+sprinkle in and stir at the same time a teaspoonful of flour; add a gill
+of white wine, same of broth; boil gently till of a proper thickness,
+and serve the bird with it, either on the same dish or separately. Serve
+as warm as possible.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cabbage.</i>&mdash;Clean and truss the prairie-chicken as directed for
+birds; fry it a little with butter, just enough to color it; then place
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[284]</a></span>
+a cabbage, previously blanched, cut in four pieces, all around it; also
+about four ounces of lean salt pork, one onion whole; just cover the
+whole with cold water (it requires about one pint of it if the pan is of
+a proper size); when the cabbage is boiled down, baste occasionally with
+the juice, and if it boils away add a little broth or water; keep enough
+to baste till done, then dish the prairie-chicken with the cabbage
+around, also the salt pork if liked; turn the juice all over through a
+strainer. In case it is not salt enough, add salt while basting. The
+flesh of a prairie-chicken is naturally dry, and by being cooked with
+cabbage it is kept moist all the time and is juicy when done. For those
+who have no prejudice against cabbage, it is the best way to prepare a
+prairie-bird.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Lard two prairie-birds as directed for larding, after
+being cleaned and prepared as directed. Put in a stewpan half a pound of
+bacon cut in slices, with four onions, two carrots cut in pieces, a
+small dried or Bologna sausage, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, two
+cloves, a bay-leaf, a little grated nutmeg, and a cabbage cut rather
+fine, and which is to be previously thrown in boiling water and boiled
+ten minutes; then the two partridges or prairie-hens; place over the
+whole four ounces of bacon cut in thin slices, cover with broth, set the
+pan on a sharp fire, and when it has boiled about fifteen minutes,
+subdue the fire, or put the pan in a moderately heated oven, simmer
+about two hours if the partridges are old, and one hour if they are
+young; then take from the fire, place the partridges on a dish with the
+sausage cut in pieces around them, drain the cabbage and put it on
+another dish with the bacon, strain the sauce on both dishes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Chartreuse.</i>&mdash;It is made in a mould for <i>Charlotte russe</i>, or in one
+like the cut following. Clean the prairie-hen as directed for birds;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[285]</a></span>
+put it in a baking-pan with one ounce of butter spread on it, also salt
+and pepper, and a gill of cold water in the pan, and bake till
+underdone, when cut it in seven pieces, making three slices in the
+breast, lengthwise. Peel and slice two carrots and two turnips; cut the
+slices about an inch thick; then cut again in small round pieces, with a
+fruit-corer, about half an inch in diameter; set them on the fire with
+cold water and salt, boil gently till done, drain and turn immediately
+in cold water, and they are ready to be used. Put a small head of
+cabbage in a saucepan with half a pound of lean salt pork, just cover it
+with cold water, and boil gently till done. The prairie-hen, carrots,
+and turnips, and the cabbage, may be cooked at the same time, but
+separately, as directed. When the cabbage is done, turn it into a
+colander, cut it rather fine with a spoon, press gently on it to get the
+water out as much as possible without mashing it through the colander,
+and it is ready to be used. Butter the mould well; place slices of
+boiled beets on the bottom; some letters or flowers may be cut in beet,
+the intervals or holes filled with turnips and carrots; when the bottom
+is lined with beets, carrots, and turnips, lay horizontally a row of
+pieces of carrots all around and against the sides of the mould; place a
+similar one of turnips on the carrots, and so on, the last row being as
+high as the top of the mould. Then put a layer of the cabbage on the
+bottom, about half an inch thick&mdash;that is, on the carrots, turnips, and
+beets&mdash;place a like layer on the sides with a spoon; put the pieces of
+prairie-hen in the middle, cover with a layer of cabbage, and bake about
+fifteen minutes in an oven at about 350 deg. Fahr. The meat must not
+touch the carrots or turnips, but be entirely surrounded with cabbage,
+else it would crumble down in removing the mould. As soon as the mould
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[286]</a></span>
+is taken out of the oven, place a dish over it and turn it upside down,
+leave it so about ten minutes to allow the juice to come out, then
+remove the mould carefully, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>The cut below represents a <i>chartreuse</i> made exactly like the one
+described above, with the exception that instead of having a row of
+carrots and a row of turnips, they are mixed, that is, placed
+alternately, the white spots representing pieces of turnips and the
+black spots pieces of carrots&mdash;the top being decorated according to
+fancy.</p>
+
+<p>According to the size of the mould, two, three, or more prairie-hens may
+be prepared at one time and in the same mould.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0286.jpg" width="420" height="192" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;Rub the stomach and legs of the birds with lemon, then
+envelop those parts with slices of bacon tied with twine, or fixed with
+small skewers; after which envelop the whole bird in buttered paper tied
+with twine; place them on a spit before a good fire, take the paper off
+after twenty or thirty minutes, according to the age of the bird; leave
+two or three minutes longer, baste often during the process of roasting,
+with the drippings; dish the birds without removing the slices of bacon;
+mix in the gravy the juice of half a lemon, or half an orange, a little
+salt and pepper, and serve it with the birds. It may also be served
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[287]</a></span>
+with water-cress and lemon-juice or vinegar. When roasted or baked and
+dished, place carpels of oranges all around, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>A roasted or baked prairie-hen is also served with the following sauces:
+anchovy, caper, Champagne, cranberry, and <i>ravigote</i> or tomato, and
+currant-jelly.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;When roasted or baked, serve it with a garniture of
+mushrooms. It is also served with a garniture of cauliflowers,
+<i>financi&egrave;re</i>, <i>Mac&eacute;doine</i>, and of truffles.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Fricass&eacute;e.</i>&mdash;Prepare, cook, and serve it like chicken in
+<i>fricass&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Crapaudine.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for pigeons in <i>crapaudine</i>, the only
+difference being that it takes a little longer to cook. It is also
+prepared and served as a quail, <i>hunter-like</i>. It takes longer to cook
+than a quail.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, cut, cook, dish, and serve the prairie-bird as
+a chicken saut&eacute;.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and truss the bird as directed. Put about one
+ounce of butter and two ounces of fat salt pork, cut in dice, in a
+saucepan, and set it on a quick fire; toss gently, and when the butter
+is melted, put the bird in and brown it all around; then add four small
+onions, half a carrot in slices, salt, and pepper; stir till the onions
+and carrot are partly fried; then add half a pint of broth, same of
+white wine, a bunch of seasonings composed of four or five stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, one bay-leaf, and a clove; boil gently till done;
+dish the bird, turn the sauce over it through a strainer, and serve
+warm. Thus stewed, it may be served with the following <i>pur&eacute;es</i>:
+asparagus, beans, lentils, lima beans, mushrooms, and peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;A whole bird or part of it left from the preceding day's
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[288]</a></span>
+dinner, if it has been broiled, baked, or roasted, is prepared and
+served in salad, like a chicken salad; or in <i>salmis</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boned.</i>&mdash;A boned prairie-bird makes an excellent dish and a most
+nutritious and warming one. Persons having a phlegmatic constitution
+ought to partake of it at least twice a week during hunting-time. Always
+select a very fresh and fat bird to bone. Pick, bone, fill, cook, and
+serve it as described for boned turkey. A prairie-hen is more easily
+boned, when fresh, than an ordinary chicken. The addition of truffles
+(about half a pound for one bird) makes it still richer and warmer.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Croquettes.</i>&mdash;Prepare, cook, and serve as chicken croquettes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Quails.</i>&mdash;A quail, like a prairie-bird, is old when it has a white bill
+and bluish legs; when young, the bill is of a rather dark-gray color,
+and the legs are yellowish. Quails are just the contrary of pheasants;
+the more fresh they are when cooked, the better.</p>
+
+<p><i>To prepare.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared as directed for poultry, cut
+off the end of the claws, and then truss it as a chicken, sprinkle salt
+and pepper on the breast. Cut thin slices of fat salt pork, somewhat
+square, and of a proper size to cover the breast of the bird, but not
+the back. Tie it to the bird with two pieces of twine, then roast or
+bake.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way to prepare them.</i>&mdash;When cleaned, prepared, and trussed as
+above, envelop the bird with grape-vine leaves, then in thin slices of
+salt-pork, and roast or bake them. They may also be enveloped in
+buttered paper, after being prepared, instead of salt pork or grape-vine
+leaves, or instead of both, but only to roast them; if baked, the
+buttered paper is placed over the birds.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Place the birds on their backs in a baking-pan, with a piece
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[289]</a></span>
+of butter the size of a hazel-nut on each, just cover the bottom of the
+pan with cold water, and set in a quick oven (about 400&ordm; Fahr.) and
+baste now and then. When about half done, put the liver of the birds,
+well pounded, in the baking-pan, and continue basting till done. While
+the quails are baking, cut as many square slices of stale bread as you
+have quails, about three inches broad and one-fourth of an inch thick;
+fry them in hot fat, place them on the dish, place a quail with the
+breast upward on each slice; remove the twine, turn the gravy over them
+and serve warm. Water-cress may be placed between each bird, as well as
+all around, and in the middle of the dish, with vinegar or lemon-juice
+sprinkled all over. It must also be served warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hunter-like (au Chasseur).</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare as directed for birds.
+Set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter to melt, then put
+in it four quails trussed as for roasting; turn them round in the pan to
+color every side; add then half a dozen stalks of parsley, salt, pepper,
+and nearly cover them with broth and white wine, half of each; boil
+gently till done. Dish the quails, and put them away in a warm place.
+Strain the sauce and put it back on the fire with a tablespoonful of
+<i>meuni&egrave;re</i>, boil rather fast till it commences turning thick, turn over
+the quails and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared as directed, envelop the birds in
+grape-vine leaves and salt pork, or in buttered paper, as directed
+above, and place them on the spit before a moderate though good fire.
+Have slices of roasted bread in the dripping-pan, baste often with the
+drippings, and when done remove the twine, or the twine and paper, but
+neither the salt pork nor the grape-vine leaves, and serve warm. The
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[290]</a></span>
+slices of bread are placed on the dish, then a quail on each slice.
+Water-cress may also be served as above.</p>
+
+<p>Quails roasted with grape-vine leaves are considered one of the most
+<i>recherch&eacute;</i> dishes. When about half roasted, the liver of the birds,
+well pounded, is put in the dripping-pan, and the drippings are turned
+over the birds when dished. When pounded, the livers may be spread on
+the slices of bread before placing them in the dripping-pan.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Green Peas.</i>&mdash;When the quails are roasted or baked, they may be
+served with green peas <i>au jus</i>. They may also be served on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of
+celery or of mushrooms.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Chartreuse.</i>&mdash;Proceed exactly as for a <i>chartreuse</i> of prairie-bird.
+Quails may be served in every way like prairie-hens, <i>stewed</i>, in
+<i>salad</i>, in <i>salmis</i>, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rabbit&mdash;to select.</i>&mdash;A rabbit, like almost every other kind of game,
+has a better taste when a little seasoned, but not too much so. As long
+as the body is rather stiff, it is good; but when soft, and when the
+flesh has a black-bluish appearance, it is necessary to examine it
+carefully, as it might be tainted. A young rabbit has soft paws, and are
+not much opened; but an old one has them open, hard, and worn out. The
+ears of a young one are very soft, while those of an old one are stiff
+and comparatively rough. The blood of the rabbit is a great improvement
+when mixed with the sauce or gravy accompanying it when served;
+therefore, we emphatically and earnestly ask of hunters, when they kill
+rabbits, to place them in their game-bags in such a position that the
+place where the shots have penetrated and through which the blood is
+escaping, be upward, and consequently stop the spilling of it.</p>
+
+<p>Tame rabbits, unless they have been kept in a large place, well fed,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[291]</a></span>
+free from any manure or dirt, and having also plenty of room to burrow
+in a dry soil, are very seldom fit to eat.</p>
+
+<p><i>To lard.</i>&mdash;The fleshy parts of a rabbit are larded with salt pork in
+the same way as described for a fillet of beef.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;To bake it, it may be larded or not, according to taste. When
+cleaned and prepared as directed for game, place the rabbit in a
+baking-pan, with a few slices of onion and carrot; salt, pepper, and
+butter it; cover the bottom of the pan with cold water and set it in a
+quick oven. After ten or fifteen minutes, turn the rabbit over, baste
+and cover it with a piece of buttered paper. Continue basting till done.
+When about half done, if the water and juice are boiling away or
+absorbed, add more water or broth, and when done turn the gravy over the
+rabbit through a strainer, and serve with water-cress and a few drops of
+lemon-juice or vinegar.</p>
+
+<p>It is also served with a <i>cranberry</i>, <i>fines herbes</i>, <i>mushroom</i>,
+<i>piquante</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, <i>tomato</i>, and <i>truffle</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Chartreuse.</i>&mdash;A rabbit is prepared in <i>chartreuse</i> the same as a
+prairie-chicken; the only difference is, that it requires a larger
+mould; the rest of the process is the same.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Civet, or stewed.</i>&mdash;Cut the rabbit in pieces, and fry them with a
+little butter till turning rather brown, when add half a pound of lean
+salt pork cut in dice; stir and fry two or three minutes, stir in also a
+tablespoonful of flour; one minute after add a half pint of broth, same
+of claret wine, salt, twelve small onions, and a bunch of seasonings,
+composed of three or four sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a
+clove of garlic, one clove. Boil gently till done; throw away the bunch
+of seasonings, and serve warm. In case it is not handy to use claret
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[292]</a></span>
+wine, use a gill of Madeira, or Port, or Sherry wine, and one gill of
+water. Without wine at all it makes an inferior dish.</p>
+
+<p>A civet made three or four days in advance, and warmed in a <i>bain-marie</i>
+for ten minutes, once every day, is better than if eaten as soon as
+made.</p>
+
+<p>In case the sauce is becoming too thick, after warming the rabbit
+several times, add a little broth, and also a little butter; stir
+gently, and always serve as warm as possible.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Crapaudine.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared as directed, cook and serve
+the rabbit as described for pigeon in <i>crapaudine</i>, with the exception
+that it takes a little longer to cook.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Croquettes.</i>&mdash;What may be left from the preceding day's dinner of a
+baked, roasted, or stuffed rabbit, may be prepared in <i>croquettes</i>, in
+the same way as chicken <i>croquettes</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Currant-Jelly.</i>&mdash;A rabbit served with currant-jelly makes a
+sightly dish, but it requires care and taste. Skin the rabbit carefully,
+leaving the ears unskinned. Cut the legs at the first joint, then dip
+the ears in hot (but not boiling) water, and scrape off the hair
+carefully. Draw it and wash the inside carefully also, putting away the
+liver, heart, and lungs. Chop fine one middling-sized onion, and fry it
+with about one ounce of butter; then add to the onion, and fry them
+also, the heart, liver, and lungs of the rabbit, after being chopped
+fine, when add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg
+grated, and a piece of clove also grated. Stir for about one minute,
+take from the fire, mix with it two yolks of eggs and one ounce of
+butter. Fill the rabbit with the mixture, sew up the incision made to
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[293]</a></span>
+draw it, and then truss it in the following way: Put the rabbit on the
+paste-board so that it appears as if it were resting, lying on its
+belly. Skewer the ears so that they seem to be naturally bent on the
+back of the neck. With a trussing-needle fasten the forelegs so that
+they look also as if naturally bent by the animal when at rest. Roast or
+bake it, and serve it with the gravy and <i>currant</i> or <i>raspberry jelly</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is placed on the dish lying on its belly, the skewers and twine are
+removed, and a few sprigs of parsley are placed in its mouth. The
+currant-jelly may be served in a saucer and the gravy in another.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Gibelotte.</i>&mdash;The only difference between a <i>gibelotte</i> and a civet
+is that the latter is made with claret wine and the former with Sauterne
+or Catawba. Other white wine may be used, but the two kinds above
+mentioned are the best.</p>
+
+<p><i>Marengo.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared as directed, cut the rabbit in
+pieces; keep the head, neck, and trimmings, to make a potage <i>au
+chasseur</i>, and cook and serve the rest as a chicken <i>&agrave; la Marengo</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Papillotes.</i>&mdash;The four legs and two pieces cut on both sides of the
+backbone may be prepared, cooked, and served as veal cutlets in
+<i>papillotes</i>. The rest is used to make a potage <i>au chasseur</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Olives.</i>&mdash;When baked or roasted, serve it as a duck with olives,
+putting three dozen olives instead of two.</p>
+
+<p><i>Roasted.</i>&mdash;It may be roasted with only a little butter spread all over
+it, or enveloped in buttered paper; or larded with salt pork; or larded
+and enveloped in buttered paper. It must be basted often, and if
+enveloped with paper, the paper must be removed about fifteen minutes
+before taking the rabbit from the fire. Ascertain when done by means of
+a skewer or a small sharp-pointed knife. It takes about forty-five
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[294]</a></span>
+minutes to roast, according to size and fire. When roasted it may be
+served with its gravy or drippings only, or with a <i>cranberry</i>, <i>fines
+herbes</i>, <i>mushroom</i>, <i>piquante</i>, <i>Proven&ccedil;ale</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, <i>Tartar</i>,
+<i>tomato</i>, <i>or truffle</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Green Peas.</i>&mdash;When baked or roasted, serve it with green peas <i>au
+jus</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;When the rabbit is cleaned and prepared as directed, proceed
+as for a chicken <i>saut&eacute;</i> in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sportsman-like.</i>&mdash;Clean and prepare the rabbit, then cut off the neck,
+head, and the end of the legs, which you keep to make a potage <i>au
+chasseur</i>. Put the rest in a crockery vessel with the juice of a lemon,
+salt, and pepper. Leave thus for at least one day, turning it over two
+or three times. Then bake or roast it, and serve with the gravy and
+water-cress.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared, cut the rabbit in pieces. Put in a
+saucepan three ounces of butter and set it on the fire; as soon as
+melted, put the pieces of rabbit in, stir now and then till they are
+turning rather brown, then take them from the pan but keep it on the
+fire. Put in it a rather small carrot and two or three onions, both
+sliced, a few slices of turnip, half a dozen sprigs of parsley, two of
+celery, one of thyme, the last three tied together with twine, and two
+or three cloves, also half a pint of Madeira or Sherry wine, salt, and
+pepper; cover the whole with broth or water; boil gently till half done,
+when add the rabbit, and continue boiling till the whole is done,
+stirring once in a while. Dish the rabbit, mash the onions, carrot, and
+turnip, through a colander, which you put all around the pieces of
+rabbit, strain the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[295]</a></span>
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;What is left is warmed and served, if from a civet, giblotte,
+stewed, etc., and served with a <i>vinaigrette</i>, if from a roasted or
+baked piece. It may also be served with a <i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, or
+<i>ravigote</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Snipe&mdash;to truss.</i>&mdash;Prepare as directed for poultry. Cut the wings off
+just above the second joint, as seen in the cut below. The head and legs
+must be cleaned very carefully. By heating the lower part of the legs
+and the claws, the skin can be easily removed, but this is not
+necessary, they may be singed and washed only. Fold the legs and run the
+bill of the bird through the two legs and the body. Put a slice of fat
+salt pork on the breast of the snipe, which you fasten there with twine,
+as seen in the cut below. The cut represents the bird on the spit, ready
+for roasting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0295.jpg" width="228" height="137" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Take four snipes and pound the livers, hearts, and lungs well
+with about the same amount of fat salt pork; then add to them about a
+teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, and the yolk of an egg; divide the
+mixture in four parts and put each part in a bird, which you sew and
+truss as directed. Line the bottom of a stewpan with slices of salt pork
+and lay the snipe on them; set on a slow fire for ten minutes, add about
+half a pint of white wine, same of broth; simmer till done, dish the
+birds, strain the gravy on them, sprinkle a few drops of lemon-juice
+over the whole, and serve warm. Snipes are served in several ways, as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[296]</a></span>
+described for bobolinks and other small birds.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salmis.</i>&mdash;A salmis is made with tame ducks and any kind of game birds.</p>
+
+<p>Birds may be roasted or baked to make a <i>salmis</i>, but most generally it
+is made with cold birds, that is, what is left from the previous day's
+dinner. It is certainly the best way to make use of cold birds. The
+proportions of the different seasonings are according to the proportion
+of meat. We give below the proportions for a whole bird; it will be easy
+to augment or reduce. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it
+on the fire; as soon as melted stir into it a tablespoonful of flour;
+when turning rather yellow add one pint of broth, same of claret wine, a
+bunch of seasonings composed of four or five sprigs of parsley, one of
+thyme, a bay-leaf and a clove, also salt, pepper, and a clove of garlic;
+boil gently about thirty-five minutes. Strain the sauce into a saucepan.
+Cut the bird or part of bird in pieces, the same as they are generally
+carved; put them in the pan with the sauce; place the saucepan in a
+<i>bain-marie</i> till the meat is warm, add some lemon-juice, and serve.
+While the meat is warming, cut some stale bread in <i>croutons</i>, fry them
+with a little butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>To serve.</i>&mdash;A <i>salmis</i> is served in two ways: first, the <i>croutons</i> are
+placed on the dish, a piece of meat is put on each, and then the sauce
+is poured all over; second, dish the meat and sauce, place the
+<i>croutons</i> all around the dish, with a piece of lemon or bitter orange
+between each <i>crouton</i>. When the <i>croutons</i> are served under the pieces
+of meat, you must have as many as there are pieces; when served around
+the dish, have enough of them, and of slices of lemon, to surround the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[297]</a></span>
+dish. The <i>croutons</i> and slices of lemon are always placed around the
+meat and on the border of the dish. The lemon or orange is first split
+in two lengthwise, then cut in eight, twelve, or sixteen slices, always
+commencing to cut on the inside and finishing by the rind. Chop fine the
+bones, heart, and liver of the bird, and put them in the saucepan at the
+same time with the broth. Truffles or mushrooms sliced may be added to
+the sauce, if liked, but only when strained.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Carve the bird or part of it, and serve cold with the
+following sauce; pound the liver of the bird and put it in a saucer; add
+to it a little vinegar, salt, pepper, and stir and mix the whole; then
+add about three times as much oil as vinegar, mix again, then
+lemon-juice, stir, and serve. It may be made without vinegar at all,
+using lemon-juice instead of vinegar to mix at first.</p>
+
+
+<h4>OPOSSUM, OTTER, RACCOON, SKUNK, FOX, WOODCHUCK, AND OTHER LIKE ANIMALS.</h4>
+
+<p>We cannot say that we have had much experience in cooking the above
+animals, but they are all eaten by many persons, in different parts of
+this and other countries. We have tasted of all or them except the
+raccoon, and we must say that we found them palatable. It is well known
+that when our soldiers retook possession of Ship Island, they found
+plenty of raccoons on it, and ate all they could catch. One day we
+happened to meet a sub-officer, who was there at the time, and inquired
+of him about it. He said he had never eaten any raccoons before, and did
+not know that they were eatable; but now he could eat them as readily as
+rabbit, as they were quite as good.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[298]</a></span>
+<p>The best time to eat any of the animals enumerated above is from
+Christmas to the 15th of February.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to prepare them.</i>&mdash;As soon as the animal is killed skin it, take
+the inside out, save the liver and heart, and wash well with lukewarm
+water and a little salt, inside and out; then wipe dry with a towel, put
+inside a few leaves of sage, bay-leaves, mint, and thyme, and sew it up.
+Hang it outside in a place sheltered from the sun, such as the northern
+side of a building; leave it thus five or six days, then take off, and
+cook.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to skin a Skunk.</i>&mdash;We were hunting one day in New Jersey, northwest
+of Paterson, with a friend and two farmers living there, when one of
+them shot a skunk. We asked him how much he could get for the skin. He
+said it was not worth while to take it to town, but that he would eat
+the animal, as it was very good.</p>
+
+<p>We thought at first that he was joking; but putting his gun and game-bag
+to the ground, he looked at us earnestly, and said, "Gentlemen, you seem
+to doubt; I will show you how it is done." We soon saw that we had been
+mistaken.</p>
+
+<p>We made a fire, took hold of the skunk by the head with one hand, and
+with a stick in the other held the skunk over the fire. He burnt off
+nearly all the hair, taking care to avoid burning the skin, commencing
+at the hind legs; then with his hunting-knife he carefully cut off the
+bag containing the fetid matter, and skinned and cleaned it.</p>
+
+<p>We then examined the skunk, and although it had not been washed, we
+could not find any part of it with a bad smell, and if we had not seen
+the whole operation we certainly would not have thought that it was a
+skunk, the very name of which is repulsive.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[299]</a></span>
+<p>The following week we dined with the farmer, ate some of that identical
+skunk, and found it very good.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to cook the above-named Animals.</i>&mdash;Take out the leaves of sage,
+etc., which you put in the animal before exposing it to the weather.
+Pound well the liver and heart with about the same quantity of bacon,
+then mix that with two or three teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, a pinch
+of grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper; stuff the animal with that mixture,
+and also with six small onions fried in butter, and a bunch of seasoning
+composed of four sprigs of parsley, three of thyme, two cloves, two
+cloves of garlic, and two bay-leaves, and sew it up again. Butter it
+well all over, place it on a spit before a very quick fire; put three or
+four sage-leaves in the dripping-pan, and baste often with the
+drippings. Serve it when cooked with the gravy, throwing away the
+sage-leaves.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be served with a <i>Mayonnaise</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, or <i>Tartar</i>
+sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Squirrel.</i>&mdash;A squirrel is prepared as a rabbit in every particular.</p>
+
+
+<h4>VENISON.</h4>
+
+<p>If young, the hoof is not much opened, and the fat is thick and clear;
+when old, the hoofs are wide open. To know if it is fresh enough, run a
+knife or a skewer through the leg or through the shoulder, and if it
+does not smell bad and stale, it is good. It is not as delicate when
+fresh as when it has been killed for five or six days. If fresh when you
+buy it, keep it from three to eight days before cooking it.</p>
+
+<p><i>To improve.</i>&mdash;Put the piece of venison in a crockery vessel. For about
+six pounds put a pint of vinegar in a saucepan with two bay-leaves, two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[300]</a></span>
+cloves, two cloves of garlic, one onion sliced, two stalks of thyme,
+four of parsley, and twelve pepper-corns; set it on the fire, give one
+boil, and turn over the piece of venison. Turn the piece of meat over
+occasionally for one or two days, and then cook it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Lard the piece of venison and put it in a crockery
+vessel; spread all over two or three onions and a clove or two of garlic
+(both sliced), half a gill of sweet-oil, same of claret wine, a pinch of
+allspice, four cloves, and two sprigs of thyme; baste twice a day for
+two or three days, and then cook.</p>
+
+<p><i>To bake.</i>&mdash;Put the venison in a baking-pan with the seasonings in which
+it has improved; spread some butter on it, and bake in a rather quick
+oven; baste now and then, and turn over if necessary. When baked, serve
+with a <i>ravigote</i> sauce, to which you have added the gravy from the pan
+in which it has been baked. Serve it also with a cranberry, <i>piquante</i>,
+<i>Robert</i>, or <i>Tartar</i> sauce, or with currant-jelly.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Civet.</i>&mdash;Shoulder, neck, and breast-pieces are cut and prepared in
+civet, in the same way as a civet of rabbit.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be kept three or four days and warmed in a <i>bain-marie</i>; it
+improves it as much as that of rabbit.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Any piece of venison, baked or roasted, may be served
+with a garniture of mushrooms.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cutlets, broiled.</i>&mdash;The cutlets are much better when improved as
+directed. The seasonings are spread all over. They are then wrapped up
+in buttered paper and broiled on a quick fire. They may also be larded
+with salt pork, and then broiled with or without being enveloped in
+paper. When broiled and dished, serve them warm with a <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>
+or <i>ravigote</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;Put six cutlets in a stewpan, larded or not, with salt,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[301]</a></span>
+pepper, eight small onions, two carrots, four sprigs of parsley, two of
+thyme, two cloves, a bay-leaf, a gill of broth, and same of water; set
+it on a good fire and boil gently till cooked. Dish the cutlets so that
+every small end or bone rests on the larger end of another, and serve
+with the sauce strained on them. If more sauce is desired, add to it any
+of the following: cranberry, <i>piquante</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, <i>Robert</i>, or
+<i>Tartar</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Haunch, roasted.</i>&mdash;After being improved, if liked, remove the thin skin
+around it and lard it with salt pork; it may be roasted without larding,
+but it is certainly an improvement, the meat being naturally dry. Place
+it on the spit before a brisk fire and near it; baste with melted butter
+first, and then with the drippings till done. If it is larded, it will
+require less butter. As soon as a kind of crust forms around the meat,
+remove it a little from the fire by degrees. Ascertain with a skewer or
+small knife when done. Venison is generally served rather underdone,
+when roasted or baked.</p>
+
+<p>To make the dish more sightly, the skin and hair of the lower part of
+the leg, together with the hoof, are left untouched. To prevent them
+from burning while it is roasting, envelop these parts with a wet towel,
+which you cover with several sheets of buttered or oiled paper. It may
+be necessary to dip the towel in water two or three times during the
+process of roasting. When roasted, serve with any of the following
+sauces: cranberry, <i>piquante</i>, <i>poivrade</i>, <i>ravigote</i>, <i>Robert</i>, or
+<i>Tartar</i>; also with currant-jelly. If served with the gravy only, add
+water-cress and lemon-juice or vinegar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Baked.</i>&mdash;Prepare it as directed for roasting; then place it in a
+bakepan with a little cold water, just enough to cover the bottom of the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[302]</a></span>
+pan; sprinkle salt and pepper all over, spread some butter on the upper
+side and put in a quick oven. Turn over and baste now and then till
+done. If the water is absorbed, add more. When baked, serve with the
+same sauces as if roasted, and also with currant-jelly and water-cress.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saddle.</i>&mdash;Roast or bake the saddle, and serve it as directed for a
+haunch, with the same sauces, and also with water-cress and
+currant-jelly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Shoulder.</i>&mdash;Cut the shoulder in fillets and lard them slightly. Put in
+a stewpan four ounces of butter and set it on a brisk fire; when hot,
+lay the fillets in, and when of a golden color add the seasonings in
+which you have improved the saddle, or the same ones if you have not
+done it; then subdue the fire, wet with a little warm broth, simmer till
+cooked, dish the fillets, strain the sauce on them, and serve. It may
+also be dressed entire, with the bones off; but it is more generally
+done in fillets. It is boned like a shoulder of mutton, and roasted or
+baked, and served like a haunch, with the same sauces and with
+currant-jelly or water-cress.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Cut the meat in square pieces, about two inches in size. Have
+in a stewpan, and on a good fire, a piece of butter the size of a duck's
+egg; when melted, sprinkle in, little by little, a tablespoonful of
+flour, stirring the while with a wooden spoon; when getting rather
+thick, add two ounces of bacon cut in dice, also half a pint of claret
+wine, same of warm water, salt, pepper, a pinch of allspice, two
+shallots chopped fine, or two green onions, four or five mushrooms, two
+cloves of garlic, and six onions; then lay the meat on the whole, and
+boil gently till cooked. Dish the meat, boil the sauce till of a
+brownish color, skim off the fat if there is too much of it, take out
+the cloves of garlic, turn the sauce on the meat, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[303]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Truffles or Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Any part of venison, baked or roasted,
+may be served with a garniture of mushrooms, or one of truffles.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold.</i>&mdash;When you have some left for the next day, warm it before
+serving it, if from a stew; but if from a roasted haunch, cut in slices
+and serve cold with a <i>vinaigrette</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SNAILS.</h4>
+
+<p>A good many are now imported from Europe.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to clean and prepare.</i>&mdash;Throw them in boiling water, in which you
+have put some wood-ashes; leave them in till they have thrown their
+cover wide open, which will take about fifteen minutes; then take them
+off, pull them out of the shell by means of a fork, place them in
+lukewarm water, and leave two hours; next, rub them in your hands, and
+then soak in cold water; rub them again in your hands in cold water, two
+or three times, changing the water each time, so as to take away most of
+their sliminess. Wash the shells in lukewarm water with a
+scrubbing-brush, and drain them when clean.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Knead together and make a paste of a sufficient quantity of
+butter, parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; say about
+two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of parsley, a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and the same of nutmeg (for two dozen). Put a
+piece of the above paste, the size of a kidney bean, in each shell, then
+the snails, and at the top again the same quantity of paste; lay them
+one by one close together, in a crockery or cast-iron kettle, the mouth
+of the snails up, and not one upon another; cover the kettle well; set
+it on a moderate fire, or in a moderately heated oven, and leave thus
+till cooked, which is easily seen by the parsley beginning to turn
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[304]</a></span>
+black, or as if fried. Lay them on a dish in the same order, and if
+there is any gravy in the kettle, put a part of it in each shell, and
+serve hot.</p>
+
+<p>In eating them, be careful after having taken off the snail and eaten
+it, to turn down the shell, for there is some juice in the bottom of it
+which is delicious; the best way is to drink it as if from the bottom of
+a glass.</p>
+
+<p>They can be broiled on a gridiron, but they are not as good as in a
+kettle; some of the juice is lost, and also the flavor.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Put in a stewpan four ounces of butter for fifty snails, and
+set it on a good fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of
+flour, stirring a while; then add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine,
+two sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, a pint of white wine, and then the
+snails, which you have previously put back into their shells; cover the
+whole with warm broth, boil gently till the sauce is reduced and the
+snails are cooked, and serve them mouth upward, and filled with the
+sauce.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[305]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="VEGETABLES" id="VEGETABLES"></a>VEGETABLES.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Green vegetables must look fresh, and have nothing rotten about them.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil or blanch Green Vegetables.</i>&mdash;Whatever they are, spinach, green
+peas, asparagus, etc., put some cold water and a little salt on the
+fire; clean the vegetable, wash it if necessary, then drop it in the
+water at the first boil; keep boiling for a time or till done; drain,
+and immediately drop it in cold water; drain again before using. It is
+impossible to tell how long it takes to boil; it depends entirely on the
+nature of the vegetable: for instance, spinach, as well as peas or any
+other vegetable, according to how tender it is, may take from three to
+twenty minutes to cook properly. Dry vegetables, such as beans, peas,
+lentils, etc., are washed or soaked in cold water, drained, and then set
+on the fire with cold water and no salt. Salt renders beans much harder
+and retards their cooking. Other vegetables that are neither green nor
+dry, such as carrots, turnips, etc., are generally set on the fire with
+cold water and salt. If prepared in other ways, it is explained in the
+receipts.</p>
+
+<p>Potatoes are generally steamed; when they must be boiled, it is
+explained. We recommend to drop the green vegetables in the water at the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[306]</a></span>
+first boil, because, in boiling, water evaporates its gases and alkali,
+and is therefore inferior for cooking purposes. Green vegetables are
+more acid here than in Europe, on account of the newness and richness of
+the soil; so is some fruit.</p>
+
+<p><i>Artichokes</i>.&mdash;The artichoke we refer to here is the plant somewhat
+resembling a thistle, having a large, scaly head, like the cone of the
+pine-tree; the lower part of the leaves composing the head, with the
+broad receptacle underneath, is the eatable part. It is a native of
+Sicily, and is an excellent and delicate vegetable. It grows well here,
+and the reason why it is not more generally known is because some
+persons who are used to live on coarse food have underrated it&mdash;their
+palates not being fit to appreciate its delicate flavor. We recommend
+gardeners and farmers to cultivate it; they will find a ready market.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to eat them raw</i>.&mdash;Quarter them, take off the outer leaves and
+choke, and serve with oil, vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to cook</i>.&mdash;Clean them and take off the outer leaves, throw them
+into boiling water, with parsley, salt, and pepper (they are cooked when
+the leaves come off easily), then take from the fire and drain, taking
+care to put them upside down.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, fried</i>.&mdash;When cooked as above, cut the upper part of the
+leaves, and then cut them in eight pieces, take the choke off, dip each
+piece in a thin paste made of flour, sweet-oil, beaten egg, vinegar,
+salt, and pepper, and fry them with a little butter. Serve them with
+sprigs of fried parsley around.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, stewed</i>.&mdash;When cooked as directed above, cut them in four
+pieces, and trim off the upper part of the leaves, take off the choke,
+and lay them in a stewpan; cover them with broth and set on a moderate
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[307]</a></span>
+fire; add then one ounce of butter for six artichokes, one sprig of
+parsley, and two mushrooms cut in slices; boil ten minutes, take the
+parsley off, and serve the artichokes with the mushrooms around; pour
+the sauce on the whole.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Vinaigrette.</i>&mdash;Cook, and serve with a <i>vinaigrette</i>. The Jerusalem
+artichokes are dressed like potatoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Asparagus.</i>&mdash;This is thought to be a native of Asia. The white
+asparagus sells dearer than the other kinds, but we cannot say that it
+is on account of its better quality, it is most likely for being more
+sightly when served. If it is kept for some time before boiling it,
+place the bunch in about half an inch deep of cold water, the top
+upward, and keep in a cool place. There are only four ways of preparing
+asparagus without changing or destroying the natural taste of the plant.
+The large ones, or what is called the first cut, is prepared in
+<i>vinaigrette</i>, <i>white sauce</i>, and <i>fried</i>; the small one, or second cut,
+is cooked <i>en petits pois</i>&mdash;like green peas. It is better and has more
+taste when boiled rather underdone, that is, taken from the water when
+still firm; if boiled till soft, it loses its taste and is not crisp.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;Cut off some of the white part, so as to have the whole of
+one length if possible; then scrape the white end a little, soak in cold
+water for a few minutes, and drain. Tie it in small bunches of half a
+dozen or a dozen, according to size, and drop them in boiling water and
+a little salt, at the first boil of the water. Boil till rather
+underdone, take off, drain and drop in cold water immediately. Drain
+again, and it is ready to serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>En Petits Pois.</i>&mdash;Cut small asparagus in pieces about half an inch
+long, and blanch them for three minutes. Take off and drain; then put
+them in a saucepan on the fire with two or three tablespoonfuls of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[308]</a></span>
+broth, stir now and then for about two minutes, add a teaspoonful of
+flour; stir again, and as soon as mixed with the asparagus add also
+about one ounce of butter, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, stir, and,
+when the butter is melted, serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Blanch the asparagus two minutes, drain it; dip each in batter
+and fry in hot fat. Take off with a skimmer when done; and turn into a
+colander, salt it, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Vinaigrette.</i>&mdash;Boil it as directed. When cold, serve with a
+<i>vinaigrette</i>. (This is also called <i>&agrave; l'huile</i>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>With White Sauce.</i>&mdash;While it is boiling, make a white sauce; drain the
+asparagus and serve both, sauce and vegetable, warm. The asparagus is
+not dropped in cold water.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cream Sauce.</i>&mdash;It is prepared and served as with a white sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Omelet.</i>&mdash;Boil the asparagus as directed, and when cool cut it in
+small pieces about half an inch long, and when the omelet is ready to be
+folded in two, a little while before taking from the fire, place the
+asparagus in the middle, then fold and serve the omelet as if there were
+nothing in it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Green or String Beans</i>, <i>Dwarf or Snap Beans</i>, <i>French Haricots</i>, <i>Pole
+Beans</i>, <i>Kidney Beans</i>, <i>etc.</i>&mdash;<i>To prepare them when green and cooked
+with the pods.</i>&mdash;Remove the string or thread that is on both sides, by
+partly breaking one end of the pod and pulling lengthwise, repeat the
+same for the other side; cut them in pieces half an inch long, soak them
+in cold water, and throw them into boiling water with a little salt.
+Boil them till cooked, which you will know by pressing one between your
+fingers to see if tender; take them from the fire, throw them into cold
+water to cool, and drain them.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[309]</a></span>
+<p><i>Au jus.</i>&mdash;Cook a quart of beans. Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan
+and set it on the fire; when melted, put the beans in with a teaspoonful
+of chopped parsley; stir five minutes; then add a gill of broth, salt,
+and pepper; simmer twenty minutes, and, just on taking from the fire,
+mix in it two well-beaten yolks of eggs, with the juice of half a lemon,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel.</i>&mdash;Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter, and set it on
+a good fire; when melted, put in it a quart of beans cooked in water,
+with a pinch of grated nutmeg, half a pint of milk, salt, pepper, and a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley; keep stirring continually, boil ten
+minutes, take from the fire, mix in it two beaten yolks of eggs, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, with Onions.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set
+it on the fire; when hot, put in it two onions cut in slices, and fry
+them. Then add salt, pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a saltspoonful of
+chopped parsley, and a quart of beans cooked in water; also half a pint
+of boiling water; boil ten minutes, stir with a wooden spoon, take from
+the fire, sprinkle in it a few drops of vinegar, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, in Salad.</i>&mdash;Cook the beans in water, as directed above; then
+put a layer of them in a crockery vessel, the layer to be about one inch
+thick; then sprinkle on it salt and pepper; repeat the same process till
+all your beans are in; cover and leave thus three or four hours; then
+throw away the water, or drain if convenient; place the beans in a
+salad-dish, with the sweet-oil, vinegar, and parsley necessary; move
+like a salad, and serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Green, shelled, Lima, or other Beans.</i>&mdash;Shell the beans, throw them in
+boiling water with a little salt, and when cooked drain them. Put two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[310]</a></span>
+ounces of butter for a quart of beans in a saucepan, and when melted
+put the beans in with salt and pepper; toss gently now and then for
+three or four minutes, then add about a teaspoonful of vinegar, or the
+juice of half a lemon, and half a teaspoonful of parsley chopped. Mix
+and serve warm. They may also be prepared as string-beans, either <i>au
+jus</i>, in <i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, or in <i>salad</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dry Beans, Lima, White or Colored.</i>&mdash;Dry beans must be soaked in water
+for some time. Some require to be soaked twenty-four hours, others only
+five or six hours. Those that require to be soaked long are not from the
+last harvest, but have been kept for two or more years. If you are not
+sure that the beans (especially the white) are from this year's crop,
+soak them for twenty-four hours in cold water, and then drain them.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;Put the beans in a saucepan with cold water, and boil gently
+till tender. If the water boils away, fill up with cold water, but never
+put any salt to boil dry beans, it prevents them from cooking. As soon
+as boiled tender, drain them, and they are ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au jus.</i>&mdash;When boiled as above, set them on the fire in a stewpan with
+a few tablespoonfuls of gravy or broth, salt, and a little butter, stir
+for two or three minutes, then add a little chopped parsley, and serve
+warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel.</i>&mdash;When boiled as above, drain and put them in a
+saucepan with about three ounces of butter for a quart of beans, stir
+now and then, and when the butter is melted, add salt, pepper, a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegar; just mix and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Salt Pork.</i>&mdash;Boil a quart of beans as directed above, and drain
+them. Cut in dice about half a pound of bacon and put it in a saucepan
+on the fire; when about half fried add the beans, mix and stir for one
+minute, then put in a warm oven for about twenty minutes, stirring
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[311]</a></span>
+occasionally; when done, sprinkle on it some parsley chopped fine,
+pepper and salt to taste, if not salt enough. There are several ways of
+preparing "pork and beans," but the one we give above is the most
+general in New England. The pork must neither be too fat nor too lean.
+It may be done also with ham and fresh pork.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mutton.</i>&mdash;Boil as directed about three pints of white beans and
+drain them. When the leg of mutton is about half roasted, put the beans
+in the dripping-pan, and stir occasionally till the meat is done, and
+serve them with it. It makes a very nourishing dish, but it would be
+rather heavy for persons having sedentary avocations. Two quarts of
+beans would not be too much for a good-sized leg of mutton. It may also
+be prepared with any other piece of mutton; shoulder, saddle, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boiled with Mutton or Pork.</i>&mdash;Prepare a quart of beans as directed, and
+then boil them ten minutes and drain them. Cut in rather large dice
+about two pounds of breast or neck of mutton or the same of pork, and of
+the same pieces, and put meat and beans in a stewpan, cover well with
+cold water; season with a bunch of seasonings composed of five or six
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and two cloves, salt,
+pepper, a little nutmeg grated, a carrot cut in three or four pieces,
+two onions, and a piece of turnip. Boil gently till the whole is
+thoroughly cooked; remove the seasonings, and serve meat and beans
+together. This makes also a nourishing dish and not an expensive one.
+The nutritive qualities of beans are very well known, and very much
+exaggerated too. Even Professor Liebig once said that "four quarts of
+beans and two pounds of corned beef or pork boiled to rags, in fifty
+quarts of water, will furnish a good meal for forty men."</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[312]</a></span>
+<p>We must say that we have not been able to try the experiment, but we
+should like very much to see what kind and how much work forty men would
+do, and for how long, with such a diet. There are many things that look
+or seem well, and even magnificent in theory, though entirely
+impracticable. It sounds well, especially to those who do not understand
+the meaning of it, to say that we feed mostly on gluten, albumen,
+gelatine, etc., and that we require so many ounces of carbon, oxygen,
+etc., in twenty-four hours. Every thing that we eat may be, with the
+exception of salt, turned into charcoal; but no one has yet been known
+to feed on it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Colored Beans, stewed.</i>&mdash;Soak, boil five minutes, and drain a quart of
+beans. Put in a stewpan half a pound of bacon and set it on the fire;
+five minutes after, put the beans in, with four small onions, salt, and
+pepper, boil gently till cooked, and drain. Put two ounces of butter in
+a stewpan on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of
+flour, same of chopped parsley, then the beans, without the bacon and
+onions; toss now and then for ten minutes, then add half a pint of
+claret wine, the same of the water in which they were cooked, boil
+gently twenty minutes; then put in it also the bacon and onions, boil
+five minutes longer, and serve the whole on the same dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Beets, stewed.</i>&mdash;Clean and wash well, but do not skin them. Put in a
+crockery vessel a layer of rye straw, moisten it slightly, place the
+beets on it, cover the vessel, and place it in a slow oven for five or
+six hours; cool and skin them. When cooked, cut them in thin slices. Put
+butter in a stewpan, and when melted sprinkle in it a pinch of flour, a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, then the beets; simmer
+twenty minutes, add a few drops of vinegar, and serve.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[313]</a></span>
+<p><i>Cabbages&mdash;to boil.</i>&mdash;Take off the outer leaves, clean, cut in four
+pieces, free it from stump and stalk, and drop it in boiling water with
+a little salt and a piece of charcoal. Boil slowly till tender, and
+drain. Cabbage contains some sulphur, and evaporates an unpleasant odor
+while boiling, and especially while boiling fast. By putting a piece of
+charcoal in the pot, it does not smell as much.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Bacon.</i>&mdash;When boiled and drained, put the cabbage in a stewpan
+with bacon, sausage, and a piece of breast of mutton; cover with cold
+water, season with three or four sprigs of parsley, a carrot, a clove, a
+little nutmeg, salt and pepper; boil till the whole is well cooked,
+remove the seasonings and drain; dish the cabbage, put the meat on it,
+and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Milk, or &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me.</i>&mdash;Boil and drain the cabbage as directed
+above. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, set it on a good fire,
+and when melted put the cabbage in with salt and pepper. Sprinkle on it
+a teaspoonful of flour, add half a pint of cream or good milk; keep
+stirring with a wooden spoon during the whole process; boil gently till
+the sauce is reduced, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Boil and drain two large heads of cabbage, and cut them very
+fine. Put about three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
+when melted put the cabbage in and stir for five minutes; then add salt,
+pepper, and a pinch of flour; wet with a pint of broth, boil till cooked
+and the sauce reduced, then serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>A l'Allemande.</i>&mdash;Blanch for ten minutes some white or green cabbage and
+drain it. Put six ounces of salt pork, cut in dice, in a saucepan on the
+fire, and when partly fried put two or three small heads of cabbage in,
+stir, and when done, add a little gravy, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Apples.</i>&mdash;Blanch for about ten minutes a head of cabbage and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[314]</a></span>
+drain it. Put two or three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire,
+and put the cabbage in when the butter is melted with four or five
+apples peeled, quartered, and cored; also a little salt and a little
+sugar, about half a pint of water or broth, boil gently till done, and
+serve as warm as possible. Generally, cabbages are better when prepared
+at least one day in advance, and then warmed in a <i>bain-marie</i> before
+serving; a little butter may be added while it is warming. Any kind of
+cabbage is prepared as directed in the above ways.</p>
+
+<p><i>Red Cabbage in Salad.</i>&mdash;Take a hard head of red cabbage, and when all
+the outer leaves are removed, see if it is clean, but do not wash it; if
+a cabbage is not clean, do not use it for salad (as you want a hard one,
+and a hard one is always clean when the outer leaves are taken off).
+Then cut it in four pieces, trim off the stump and coarse ends of the
+leaves; cut it as thin as possible, as in making sour-krout, put it in a
+crockery vessel, with salt, vinegar, and pepper sprinkled on, cover and
+leave thus from four to six hours; then throw away the water or vinegar,
+dress as another salad, with oil and vinegar, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, stewed.</i>&mdash;Blanch the cabbage for about ten minutes and drain
+it; then put it in a saucepan with about an ounce of butter and stir for
+five minutes, when add a little salt, a little sugar, a gill of claret
+wine, and same of broth or water. Boil gently till done, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;Remove the outer leaves of either a green, white, or red
+cabbage, see that it be clean, then put it in a bowl, and pour boiling
+water on it. Leave it so till the leaves are soft and pliable, when take
+off and drain. Cut off the stump carefully, place the cabbage on the
+table, the top upward, then open it gently by spreading the leaves all
+around without breaking them; then, commencing with the centre leaves,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[315]</a></span>
+put some sausage-meat between the leaves, finishing with the outer ones
+and raising them; that is, bringing the cabbage to its original shape as
+much as possible, and then tie it all around with twine. Put in a
+saucepan large enough to hold the cabbage easily, but not too large, a
+little salt pork, cut in small dice, rind of salt pork and trimmings of
+butcher's meat that you may have, but if none at all, put a little lean
+salt pork or bacon, and cut in dice also, half a carrot in slices, two
+onions in slices also, and then the cabbage on the whole. Half cover it
+with broth; water may be used instead of broth, but it makes a very
+inferior dish, while with broth it is unquestionably an excellent one
+for those who like cabbages. Simmer for two or three hours, according to
+the size of the cabbage. A piece of sausage may be placed on the cabbage
+also and cooked with it. Then dish the cabbage, remove the twine tying
+it; place the sausage around and also the salt pork if liked, strain the
+sauce on the whole, and serve warm. If the water or broth boils away
+while it is cooking, add more.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sour-krout.</i>&mdash;Soak in cold water for some time, changing the water
+three or four times; then put it in a stewpan with a pound of bacon, two
+ounces of sausages, and two ounces of lard to every quart of sour-krout,
+salt, and pepper; wet with broth, or with water, boil from five to six
+hours, and serve with the bacon and sausages on it. When cooked as
+above, but with water instead of broth, drain it well, put the bacon and
+sausages away in a warm place; then put the sour-krout in a stewpan with
+about one pint of white wine to a quart of sour-krout, set it on the
+fire and boil gently till the wine is nearly all absorbed or boiled
+away. Serve as above with the bacon and sausages on it. It is almost
+always prepared with wine in many parts of Germany.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[316]</a></span>
+<p><i>Cardoons.</i>&mdash;The white part only is good to eat. Clean well and scrape
+the sides; cut in pieces two inches and a half in length, and throw them
+in boiling water with a little salt; boil them till their sliminess
+comes off easily; then take from the fire, pour cold water in, and by
+means of a towel remove the sliminess; soak in cold water and drain
+them. Lay a few slices of bacon in a stewpan, place the cardoons on
+them, and again lay slices of bacon on; season with two onions, two
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove, salt, pepper,
+and the juice of half a lemon; cover with water and set on a good fire;
+boil till cooked; take from the fire and drain the cardoons only,
+throwing away the seasonings. Put the cardoons back in the stewpan, in
+which you have left the bacon; add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth,
+and two of Espagnole sauce; set on a slow fire, and simmer till the
+sauce is reduced to a proper thickness. Have at the same time in a pan
+on the fire a piece of ox-marrow, and when melted mix it with the sauce
+at the moment you take the cardoons from the fire, and serve hot either
+with or without the bacon.</p>
+
+<p><i>Carrots&mdash;how to clean and prepare them.</i>&mdash;Trim off all the small roots,
+wash them well, scrape them gently, taking care to scrape the skin only;
+then wash well, drain, and cut them either in slices a quarter of an
+inch thick, in fillets or strips, or with a vegetable spoon, according
+to fancy.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;When prepared, put them in a saucepan with a little salt,
+more cold water than is necessary to cover them, set on the fire, boil
+gently till tender, and drain. It is impossible to tell how long it
+takes, as it depends how young and tender they are.</p>
+
+<p><i>In B&eacute;chamel.</i>&mdash;Clean, cut, and boil about a quart of carrots as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[317]</a></span>
+directed and drain them. Mix well together in a saucepan, on the table,
+about two ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, add about one
+pint of milk, set on the fire, stir slowly till it comes to a boil, when
+turn the carrots in, stir for about one minute, add also a little salt,
+same of sugar, two yolks of eggs; stir and mix well, give one boil, and
+serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Cr&egrave;me, or with Cream.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for a <i>B&eacute;chamel</i> in every
+particular except that you use cream instead of milk.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Poulette.</i>&mdash;Proceed as in <i>B&eacute;chamel</i> with the exception that you use
+broth instead of milk, and add a little parsley, chopped fine, just
+before serving.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fines Herbes.</i>&mdash;Clean, cut, and boil as directed, about a quart of
+carrots. Set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter in it, and
+when melted fry in it a piece of onion chopped fine. When the onion is
+fried add a pint of broth or water; boil about five minutes, put the
+carrots in with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, give one boil, take
+from the fire, add a few drops of lemon-juice, and serve as warm as
+possible, with salt to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au jus.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for <i>fines herbes</i>, except that you do not use
+onions, and put half a pint of broth or gravy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Glazed.</i>&mdash;Clean, cut with a vegetable spoon, and boil as directed,
+about a quart of carrots, and drain them. Put three ounces of butter in
+a frying-pan and set it on the fire. As soon as the butter is melted
+turn the carrots in, toss gently for five or six minutes, then add a
+little over a gill of rich gravy, sugar to taste, toss again now and
+then till the gravy is half boiled away, and use. Glazed carrots are
+seldom served alone, but most generally used as garnishing around a
+piece of meat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Clean, and cut carrots in slices, and then blanch them for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[318]</a></span>
+about five minutes, and drain them. Set a stewpan on the fire with about
+two ounces of butter in it; as soon as melted put the carrots in with
+salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar, half a pint of broth; boil gently till
+cooked, take from the fire, add and mix with the carrots a little
+chopped parsley, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sugar.</i>&mdash;Clean and slice about a quart of carrots, and blanch them
+for five minutes, and then drain them. Put two ounces of butter in a
+stewpan, and set it on a good fire, and when melted lay the carrots in
+with salt, pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and about half a pint of
+broth; sprinkle in it, while stirring with a wooden spoon, about a
+teaspoonful of flour, and boil gently till cooked. Take from the fire,
+mix a good tablespoonful of sugar with two yolks of eggs, and those
+again with the rest, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cauliflowers and Broccoli&mdash;how to prepare and cook them in
+water.</i>&mdash;Clean and wash them well, throw into boiling water with a
+little salt and a little flour, boil till cooked, and drain them.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to serve with Cheese.</i>&mdash;Put them on a crockery dish when prepared;
+pour on a white sauce, in which you have mixed a little grated cheese;
+then dust the whole with fine bread-crumbs; after which you take a soft
+brush or a feather, which you dip in lukewarm butter, and put a thin
+coat of it all over the cauliflowers; then place the dish in a quick
+oven for ten minutes, and serve as they are, <i>i. e.</i>, in the dish in
+which they have been cooked. This is also called <i>au gratin</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>In B&eacute;chamel.</i>&mdash;Boil the cauliflowers till done to your taste, drain
+immediately and place them on the dish, the top upward. While it is
+boiling make a <i>B&eacute;chamel</i> sauce and turn it over the cauliflowers as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[319]</a></span>
+soon as dished, and serve as warm as possible. Cauliflower, like
+asparagus, has a better taste when rather underdone; it is more crisp.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Beurre Noir (with Brown Butter).</i>&mdash;When boiled, drained, and dished,
+turn a brown butter over them, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With a Cream-Sauce.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, boil, and drain the cauliflowers
+as directed above, then dish them also with the top upward. While they
+are boiling, make a cream-sauce and turn it over the cauliflowers as
+soon as they are dished, and serve warm. As they must be served warm, if
+the sauce is ready before the cauliflowers are cooked, keep it in a
+<i>bain-marie</i>; if the cauliflowers are cooked before the sauce is ready,
+keep them in a warm place.</p>
+
+<p><i>With a White Sauce.</i>&mdash;Proceed as with a cream-sauce in every
+particular, turning a white instead of a cream-sauce over them; serve
+warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Clean, prepare, and boil them for about five minutes, that is,
+till they are about half cooked; then dip them in batter for frying
+vegetables, and fry them in hot fat. Take them off with a skimmer, turn
+them into a colander, sprinkle salt all over, and serve as hot as
+possible. They are excellent fried, but they must not be allowed to
+cool.</p>
+
+<p><i>With a Tomato-Sauce.</i>&mdash;Commence by making a tomato-sauce, as it
+requires longer than preparing the cauliflowers. When the sauce is
+nearly made, boil the cauliflower as directed, dish it, and then turn
+the sauce over it, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au jus, or stewed.</i>&mdash;Prepare, boil the cauliflowers till half done, and
+drain them. Place them carefully in a stewpan, the top upward, and set
+on the fire with a little fat. The fire must be rather slow. Stir gently
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[320]</a></span>
+and very carefully in order not to break them, and, about five minutes
+after they are on the fire, add half a gill of broth for a
+middling-sized cauliflower, salt, and pepper; simmer till done, stirring
+now and then during the process; dish them, turn the sauce all over, and
+serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Salad.</i>&mdash;When boiled and drained, leave them in the colander till
+perfectly cold, then put them in the salad-dish with salt, pepper,
+vinegar, and oil, move carefully in order not to break it, and serve. A
+salad of cauliflowers is not served as a salad of greens, but as an
+<i>entremet</i>, like other vegetables, and as if prepared in any other way.
+It is an excellent dish for breakfast.</p>
+
+<p><i>Celery&mdash;stewed.</i>&mdash;Cut off the green part or top of about half a dozen
+heads of celery; cleanse and trim them, but leave them whole. Set a
+saucepan of cold water and a little salt on the fire, and at the first
+boil drop the heads of celery in, boil till tender and drain. Put the
+celery back in the pan with about half a pint of broth; boil gently
+about five minutes, when add two or three tablespoonfuls of good
+meat-gravy, a teaspoonful of <i>meuni&egrave;re</i>, salt to taste, give one boil,
+and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Cut the celery in pieces about two inches long, wash, drain,
+and wipe dry. Dip them in batter for frying vegetables, drop in hot fat,
+and turn them into a colander when fried; sprinkle salt over, and serve
+hot. Soup or turnip-rooted celery, after being cleaned and properly
+scraped, is prepared like table celery as above, either stewed or fried.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chiccory.</i>&mdash;Chiccory, or succory, or endive, is generally prepared as a
+salad, if it be that with the broad leaves, or the curled endive.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Clean, wash, and drain it. Blanch it for about one minute,
+and drain again. Then put it in a stewpan with a little broth, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[321]</a></span>
+simmer till cooked; then add a little gravy, salt and pepper to taste,
+and serve. It makes a good <i>entremet</i>. The wild chiccory is prepared in
+the same way.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Milk.</i>&mdash;Remove the outer leaves and see that it is perfectly
+clean, cut in two or four, wash well in several waters, and throw into
+boiling water with a little salt; boil half an hour, take it out, throw
+into cold water, leave two minutes, and drain; press on it the drainer
+so as to extract all the water from it, after which chop it fine. Put
+about two ounces of butter in a stewpan; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+teaspoonful of flour, also salt and pepper; then put the endive in, say
+three or four heads, stir with a wooden spoon for ten minutes, after
+which time you beat two eggs with milk, and put them in the stewpan;
+keep stirring fifteen minutes longer, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Corn&mdash;sweet.</i>&mdash;The simplest and best way is to boil it, and then eat it
+with butter, salt, and pepper. When boiled with any meat-soup, or with
+<i>pot-au-feu</i>, it is delicious to eat, and gives a good taste to the
+broth; it is also eaten with butter, salt, and pepper, as above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Shell it and then drop it in boiling water and a little salt,
+boil till nearly done; then drain and put it back on the fire with a
+little broth; boil gently for about ten minutes, add a little gravy,
+salt and pepper to taste, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Succotash.</i>&mdash;This popular Indian dish, is very simply made by
+boiling corn and green Lima beans together, with salt and pepper. The
+two can be prepared together as stewed corn, but it makes a very
+inferior dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cucumbers.</i>&mdash;Peel them, split them in four, take the seeds out, cut in
+pieces about one inch long, throw them into boiling water, with a little
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[322]</a></span>
+salt; boil till cooked, drain, and put them on a towel so as to dry
+them well; then put butter in a frying-pan, and set it on a good fire;
+when hot, put in it some chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, two minutes
+after put the cucumbers in it, fry a few minutes, tossing them now and
+then, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, stewed.</i>&mdash;Cook in boiling water, and dry them as above; then
+put them in a stewpan with a little butter kneaded with flour, add salt,
+pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg; moisten with broth, simmer to
+reduce the sauce; take from the fire, mix the yolks of two eggs in the
+sauce; add to it a few drops of vinegar, and serve them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;Soak a piece of bread in cold water and then squeeze the
+water out of it, the size to be according to how many cucumbers are to
+be stuffed, or how large they are. Split large cucumbers in two,
+lengthwise, remove the seeds and some of the fleshy parts inside, by
+means of a small iron spoon. Put a little butter in a saucepan on the
+fire, and when melted fry in it a piece of chopped onion. When the onion
+is fried, put in the pan what you have removed from the inside of the
+cucumbers, and which you have chopped a little, stir for about five
+minutes, and then add the soaked bread, stir and mix well with the rest;
+add also salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg and a little gravy; stir
+again for about one minute, take from the fire; fill the cucumbers, that
+is, each half with the mixture; place them in a pan, the mixture upward;
+dust with bread-crumbs, put a little butter on the top of each, and
+bake. Before serving, a little gravy may be sprinkled all over; serve
+warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>In hors-d'oeuvre.</i>&mdash;Peel the cucumbers, cut them in slices slantwise,
+and salt them for two or three hours. Drain them, and then season with
+oil, vinegar, pepper, and parsley chopped fine.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[323]</a></span>
+<p>Pickled cucumbers are served whole with small onions, also pickled, as a
+<i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dandelion.</i>&mdash;Dandelion is a very healthy greens in the spring, either
+cooked or raw. Clean and wash them well several times, as it nearly
+always contains fine sand between the leaves; leave them in cold water
+about two hours, and drain them; throw them into boiling water and salt;
+boil twenty minutes if young, and thirty minutes if full grown; then put
+them in a colander, press on them so as to extract all the water, after
+which chop them fine; put about two ounces of butter in a stewpan, for
+two quarts, and set it on a quick fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+teaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper, then put the dandelion in, stir
+for ten minutes, after which wet it with broth; keep stirring for about
+fifteen minutes longer, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Egg-Plant&mdash;broiled.</i>&mdash;Split the egg-plant in two lengthwise, peel it
+and remove the seed. Put it in a crockery vessel and sprinkle salt on
+it; leave it thus nearly an hour, then take it off, dip it in egg beaten
+with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, then boil it; serve with a
+<i>ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel</i> sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Peel and cut in slices, lay the slices in a vessel, sprinkling
+salt over every layer, and leave thus half an hour and drain. Dip the
+slices in batter for frying vegetables, drop them in hot fat, and turn
+them into a colander when fried; sprinkle salt all over, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Put the slices with salt half an hour in a vessel as directed
+in the above. Drain them, and then fry them on both sides with a little
+butter in a frying-pan. Serve warm, with salt and pepper to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for stuffed cucumbers in every particular.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[324]</a></span>
+<p><i>Hominy.</i>&mdash;Hominy is prepared in different ways, some make it in cakes,
+others like mush. The following is, however, the general way of
+preparing it: boil it for about three hours with water or milk, also
+butter, salt, and pepper; then mix with it some well-beaten eggs, fry or
+broil, or even cook it in an oven, and serve for breakfast.</p>
+
+<p><i>Leeks.</i>&mdash;Clean, wash, and drain; throw them in boiling water with a
+little salt, boil fifteen minutes, and drain; press on them in the
+drainer, so as to extract all the water, then chop them fine. Put two
+ounces of butter in a stewpan; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful
+of flour, salt, and pepper, then add the leeks. Stir with a wooden spoon
+for ten minutes; after that beat two eggs with milk, and put them in a
+stewpan; keep stirring fifteen minutes longer, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lentils.</i>&mdash;This excellent vegetable, much superior to beans or peas, is
+not generally known. Most of what we have here comes from Germany; a
+little comes from France and Switzerland. Many persons think them much
+dearer than beans or peas, not knowing that they swell three or four
+times their size when soaked in water before cooking them. They are
+prepared like dry beans in every way. A <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of lentils is excellent
+with almost every kind of meat, and it also makes a good potage. It has
+all the nutritive qualities of the bean.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lettuce.</i>&mdash;Cos lettuce, cabbage lettuce, butter lettuce, curled
+Silesia, white or green lettuce, etc. Besides being served as salad, all
+the above, when properly dressed, make an excellent <i>entremet</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>To prepare.</i>&mdash;Take off the outer leaves, that is, all those that are
+too green or too hard, then clean and wash well, but without cutting it
+off, or without detaching the leaves. To stew lettuce, select hard
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[325]</a></span>
+heads, so that they can be cleansed without detaching the leaves. When
+cleaned, drop the heads in boiling water and a little salt, boil about
+five or ten minutes, according to how tender the lettuce is, and drain
+dry.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared, sprinkle on the top of each, salt,
+pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; then tie each head with a string.
+Place in a stewpan two or three slices of bacon, put the heads of
+lettuce in, season with two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf,
+and a clove, also salt and pepper; cover with water, and simmer about
+two hours in an oven; then take them from the pan, drain, pressing on
+them to extract all the water, and put them on a dish, the top upward.
+Have butter in a stewpan, and on a good fire; when melted, sprinkle in
+it a teaspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon; subdue the
+fire, add a little milk, and stir and simmer ten minutes longer; take
+from the fire, mix in the beaten yolks of two eggs, pour it on the
+lettuce, which you have kept warm, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When prepared, chop it fine. Put in a stewpan, for four
+heads of lettuce, three ounces of butter, and set it on the fire; when
+melted, put the lettuce in with a little chopped chervil, stir now and
+then till cooked; then sprinkle in it a pinch of flour, wet with broth,
+boil ten minutes longer, keeping it stirred, and serve. (For a salad of
+lettuce, see <span class="smcap">Salad</span>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for a stuffed cabbage.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Preserved mushrooms are used for sauces only. The first
+thing to consider very attentively in mushrooms is, not to eat any that
+you do not know to be good to eat. There are so many kinds of good and
+bad ones, that it is necessary to be very careful about even the edible
+ones, or the ones known as such when young; it is better and safer
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[326]</a></span>
+never to use them when old; they are considered old when the comb
+underneath is black before picking, while when young it is of a pink
+color.</p>
+
+<p><i>How to clean and prepare them.</i>&mdash;Cut off the lower part of the stem;
+skin them with a steel knife, commencing at the edge and finishing at
+the top; cut in pieces, put them in cold water, to which you have added
+a few drops of vinegar; leave them in it two hours, moving them
+occasionally; then wash well in two or three waters, and drain.</p>
+
+<p>When cleaned and prepared thus, they are ready to be used in sauces, or
+to cook.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;If you have large mushrooms, clean and prepare as above,
+except that you do not cut them; but when drained, put them upside down
+on a greased gridiron, and on a moderate fire; place a little butter
+around the stem upon the comb, and when done place them on a dish which
+you have warmed in advance, and in the same position they had on the
+gridiron; put again around the stem some butter kneaded with a little
+chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, and serve. They must be served warm.</p>
+
+<p>As an ornament, you may make, with common white note-paper, as many
+little square boxes as you have mushrooms to broil; grease them with
+butter, put the mushrooms in, set them on the gridiron, and on a
+moderate fire, and serve them in the boxes when done.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, stewed.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and prepared as directed, and drained,
+throw a quart of them in boiling water, to which you have added a few
+drops of vinegar; boil five minutes, take them out, put them in cold
+water to cool, drain and dry them in a towel. Put two ounces of butter
+in a stewpan and set it on a good fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[327]</a></span>
+pinch of flour, add also a sprig of parsley, two small onions, a little
+piece of carrot, a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper, cover with broth, and
+boil till the onions are cooked; then take from the pan onions, parsley,
+and bay-leaf, and put the mushrooms in instead; boil slowly about twenty
+minutes, take from the fire, add to the sauce the yolks of two eggs well
+beaten with a few drops of vinegar, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mushroom Catsup.</i>&mdash;Clean and wash them well, stems and all; cut them in
+two or four pieces; then place the pieces in a crockery vessel,
+sprinkling salt on every layer of mushrooms, and leave thus twenty-four
+hours. Take them out and press them well, so as to take all the juice
+out, which you bottle at once, and cork. Put the mushrooms back in the
+vessel, and twenty-four hours after press them again; and again put the
+juice in bottles, and the mushrooms in the vessel, and repeat this
+process again after another twenty-four hours. Then mix well together
+the juice of the three pressings; add to it pepper, allspice, one clove
+(or more, according to the quantity) broken in pieces; boil the whole,
+skim off the scum as long as you see any on the surface, and strain.
+Bottle when cool; put in each bottle two cloves and a pepper-corn, cork
+air-tight, put in a cool and dry place, and it will keep for years.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dried.</i>&mdash;Dried mushrooms are imported from Italy, they come cheaper
+than the preserved ones in cans, and are as good for brown sauces. Soak
+them in water over night; drain them, and they are ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Onions &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me.&mdash;(With Cream.)</i>&mdash;Only small white onions are
+prepared <i>&agrave; la cr&egrave;me</i>. Have water and a little salt on the fire, and
+drop two dozen small white onions into it at the first boil. When
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[328]</a></span>
+cooked, drain, and wipe them dry carefully, in order not to bruise
+them. Set a saucepan on the fire with about two ounces of butter in it,
+and when melted put the onions in, stirring gently for two or three
+minutes, then turn about a gill of cream in, little by little, stirring
+the while, and as soon as the whole is in take from the fire, salt to
+taste, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Glazed.</i>&mdash;Peel a dozen of middling-sized onions and put them in a
+saucepan with four ounces of butter, and set them on a slow fire; stir
+occasionally till they are about three-quarters done, when add about two
+ounces of powdered sugar, stir now and then and finish the cooking. When
+done and well browned all around, add one or two tablespoonfuls of good
+meat-gravy, keep a few minutes on a rather brisk fire in order to reduce
+the sauce, but keep stirring and use. Onions prepared that way are
+excellent, and generally used to decorate meat.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Clean a quart of small onions, throw them in boiling water,
+add two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a clove, a bay-leaf, a little
+piece of nutmeg, a clove of garlic, salt, and pepper; boil twenty
+minutes, drain the onions only, and throw away the seasonings. Put two
+ounces of butter in a stewpan on a good fire, and when melted sprinkle
+in it a teaspoonful of flour; then add the onions, cover with half broth
+and half white wine, boil gently till well cooked and the sauce reduced,
+serve warm. It is a very wholesome dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Parsnips.&mdash;Saut&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;Scrape, wash, drain, and put about two quarts of
+parsnips in a saucepan with cold water and a little salt, set on the
+fire and boil till done, then drain. Cut the parsnips in slices, put two
+ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and when melted put the sliced turnips
+in, toss gently till they are of a fine golden color, then add salt and
+pepper to taste, turn over a dish, sprinkle chopped parsley all over,
+and serve warm.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[329]</a></span>
+<p><i>Stewed.</i>&mdash;Scrape, clean, wash, boil, and drain as above directed, about
+two quarts of parsnips. Put them immediately into a stewpan with salt,
+pepper, and broth enough to about half cover them, boil gently for
+fifteen minutes, and serve the whole as it is. They may also be prepared
+in <i>poulette</i>, the same as turnips.</p>
+
+<p><i>Peas with Bacon.</i>&mdash;Put in a stewpan on the fire four ounces of bacon
+cut in dice (for one quart of peas), and toss and fry it for about five
+minutes, then add the peas after having blanched them from five to ten
+minutes, according to how tender they are; stir for two minutes and add
+half a pint of broth or water, also a bunch of seasonings composed of
+two or three sprigs of parsley, half a one of thyme, and a piece of
+bay-leaf; stir again and mix, and then add also two or three small
+onions, salt, and pepper; boil half an hour, remove the seasonings, and
+serve peas and salt pork. A small sausage may be added for those who
+like the taste of it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Plain boiled.</i>&mdash;Put a saucepan on the fire with water and salt in it,
+and at the first boil drop two quarts of peas in it; boil gently till
+done, and then drain. As soon as they are in the colander, just toss
+them a little, turn them over a dish, and put four ounces of butter on
+the top, salt, and pepper, then place the dish in the oven with the door
+open, that is, just to keep them warm and allow the butter to melt, stir
+for one or two minutes, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Lettuce.</i>&mdash;Blanch a quart of peas for about five minutes, and
+drain them. Blanch a head of lettuce for one minute. Put peas and
+lettuce in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, stir gently on the fire
+for about one minute, and then add a little broth or water, two or three
+sprigs of parsley, salt, and pepper; boil slowly till done, and serve
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[330]</a></span>
+warm. The parsley may be served, or removed just before serving,
+according to taste. The lettuce is always served with the peas.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au jus.</i>&mdash;Boil the peas as directed for <i>plain boiled</i>, then put them
+back on the fire with a little butter, stir for one minute, add about
+three tablespoonfuls of gravy to a quart of peas, salt and pepper, give
+one boil, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Ham.</i>&mdash;Blanch two quarts of peas and drain them. Put them in a
+saucepan with half a pound of ham, cut in dice, half cover them with
+water, and boil gently till done. If the water boils away, add a little
+more; serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>Canned peas are prepared in the same way as above.</p>
+
+<p><i>A l'Anglaise.</i>&mdash;If the peas are fresh, blanch them; if they are
+preserved, drain them only. Put the peas in a saucepan with about one
+ounce of butter for a pint, set on the fire, stir gently till thoroughly
+warm, add chopped parsley and a yolk of egg, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Sucre (with Sugar).</i>&mdash;Set the peas on the fire, the same as above,
+add about one ounce of sugar, stir also till warm; take from the fire,
+stir a yolk of egg in, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Dry Peas and Split Peas.</i>&mdash;Dry and split peas are prepared and served
+in the same and every way like dry <i>beans</i>, with the exception that they
+require to be soaked only for a few hours before cooking them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Potatoes.&mdash;To select.</i>&mdash;As a general rule, the smaller the eye the
+better the potatoes. By cutting off a piece from the larger end you
+ascertain if they are sound; they must be white, reddish, bluish, etc.,
+according to the species. If spotted, they are not sound, and therefore
+very inferior. There are several kinds, and all of them are good when
+sound or coming from a proper soil. Use the kind you prefer, or those
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[331]</a></span>
+that are better fit for the way they are intended to be served. To mash
+or to make a <i>pur&eacute;e</i>, etc., every kind is good. To serve whole or in
+dice, or in pieces like carpels of oranges, those called <i>Mercers</i> and
+the like, are preferable, because they do not bruise so easily.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;Being naturally watery, potatoes should never be cooked by
+boiling except when wanted very white, as for <i>croquettes</i>. When boiled
+whole, put them of an even size as much as possible, in order to cook
+them evenly. They are better, more mealy, when steamed or baked, but
+those who have no steamer must, of course, boil them. Cover them with
+cold water, set on the fire and boil till done, then pour off all the
+water, put the pan back on a slow fire for five minutes and well
+covered; then use the potatoes.</p>
+
+<p><i>To steam.</i>&mdash;Place them above a kettle of boiling water, in a kind of
+drainer made for that purpose, and adapted to the kettle. The drainer
+must be covered tight. They cook as fast as by boiling, the degree of
+heat being the same. When steamed the skin is very easily removed.</p>
+
+<p><i>To prepare.</i>&mdash;If they are to be boiled, or steamed, or baked, it is
+only necessary to wash them. If wanted peeled, as for frying, etc., then
+commence by cutting off the germs or eyes; if young and tender, take the
+skin off with a scrubbing-brush and drop immediately in cold water to
+keep them white; if old, scrape the skin off with a knife, for the part
+immediately under the skin contains more nutriment than the middle, and
+drop in cold water also. If wanted cut, either in dice, or like carpels
+of oranges, or any other way, cut them above a bowl of cold water, so
+that they drop into it, for if kept exposed to the air they turn reddish
+and lose their nutritive qualities.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[332]</a></span>
+<p><i>A l'Allemande.</i>&mdash;Steam, peel, and slice the potatoes. Cut some bread in
+thin slices, and fry bread and potatoes with a little butter and turn
+the whole in a bowl, dust well with sugar, pour a little milk all over
+and bake for about fifteen minutes; serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>A l'Anglaise.</i>&mdash;Steam or boil about a quart of potatoes and then peel
+and slice them. Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on the fire,
+and put the potatoes in when melted, toss them for about ten minutes,
+add salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la barigoule.</i>&mdash;Peel some potatoes and cook them whole in broth; when
+done take them off carefully, so as not to break or bruise them, and
+drain. Have some oil in a frying-pan and on a quick fire, and when hot
+lay the potatoes in; move gently to fry them all around, and then dish
+them, sprinkling salt, pepper, and vinegar, all over; serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>B&eacute;chamel.</i>&mdash;Steam or boil and peel some potatoes, then slice them and
+place on a dish; have a <i>B&eacute;chamel</i> sauce ready, turn it over the
+potatoes, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Broiled.</i>&mdash;Steam, peel and slice the potatoes. Lay the slices on a
+gridiron, and place it over a rather slow fire; have melted butter, and
+spread some over the slices of potatoes with a brush; as soon as the
+under part is broiled, turn each slice over and spread butter over the
+other side. When done, dish, salt, and serve them hot. A little butter
+may be added when dished, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Parisienne.</i>&mdash;Chop an onion fine and partly fry it with butter,
+then put in it some potatoes cut in dice, add a little water or broth,
+salt, and pepper; boil gently till done, take from the fire, add chopped
+parsley, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;To be fried, the potatoes are cut either with a vegetable
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[333]</a></span>
+spoon, in fillets, in slices, with a scalloped knife, or with an
+ordinary one, or cut in pieces like carpels of oranges, or even in dice.
+When cut, drain and wipe them dry. This must be done quickly, so as not
+to allow the potatoes to turn reddish. Have a coarse towel ready, then
+turn the potatoes into a colander, and immediately turn them in the
+towel, shake them a little, and quickly drop them in hot fat. (<i>See</i>
+<span class="smcap">Frying</span>.) When done, turn them into a colander, sprinkle salt on them,
+and serve hot. Bear in mind that fried potatoes must be eaten as hot as
+possible. Fry only one size at a time, as it takes three times as long
+to fry them when cut in pieces as when sliced or cut in fillets.</p>
+
+<p><i>To fry them light, or swelled</i>.&mdash;When fried, turn into the colander,
+and have the fat over a brisk fire; leave the potatoes in the colander
+only about half a minute, then put them back in the very hot fat, stir
+for about one minute and put them again in the colander, salt them, and
+serve hot. If the fat is very hot, when dropped into it for the second
+time they will certainly swell; there is no other way known to do it. It
+is as easily done as it is simple. Potatoes cut in fillets and fried are
+sometimes called <i>&agrave; la Parisienne</i>; when cut in slices or with a
+vegetable spoon, they are called <i>&agrave; la fran&ccedil;aise</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Potatoes cut with a vegetable spoon and fried, make a good as well as a
+sightly decoration for a dish of meat or of fish. They may be fried in
+oil also, but it is more expensive than in fat. They may be fried in
+butter also, but it is still more expensive than oil, and is not better
+than fat; no matter what kind of fat is used, be it lard, beef suet, or
+skimmings of sauces and gravy, it cannot be tasted.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hollandaise.</i>&mdash;Steam or boil the potatoes, and then peel and mash
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[334]</a></span>
+them. Season them with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, and
+pepper, add also two tablespoonfuls of gravy to a quart of potatoes,
+then make small balls about the size of a walnut, round or of an
+olive-shape, dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in
+hot fat. Serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above one in every particular, except
+that you use milk or cream instead of broth, and sugar instead of salt
+and pepper.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lyonnaise.</i>&mdash;Potatoes <i>Lyonnaise</i> are prepared according to taste, that
+is, as much onion as liked is used, either in slices or chopped. If you
+have not any cold potatoes, steam or boil some, let them cool, and peel
+and slice them. For about a quart of potatoes, put two ounces of butter
+in a frying-pan on the fire, and when melted put as much onion as you
+please, either sliced or chopped, into the pan, and fry it till about
+half done, when add the potatoes and again two ounces of butter; salt,
+pepper, and stir and toss gently till the potatoes are all fried of a
+fine, light-brown color. It may require more butter, as no vegetable
+absorbs more than potatoes. It makes an excellent dish for those who do
+not object to the taste of the onion (the onion can be tasted, not being
+boiled or kept long enough on the fire to evaporate). Serve warm. Oil
+may be used instead of butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ma&icirc;tre d'H&ocirc;tel.</i>&mdash;Steam or boil about a quart of potatoes, and then
+peel and cut them in slices. Put one ounce and a half of butter in a
+saucepan on the fire, and when melted add a small tablespoonful of
+flour; stir, and when turning yellow add also about a quart of milk,
+salt to taste, give one boil and take from the fire. Then add the
+potatoes, put back on a slow fire, stir for ten minutes, mix in the
+whole a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, also a yolk or two of eggs,
+and serve warm.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[335]</a></span>
+<p><i>Another Ma&icirc;tre d'H&ocirc;tel.</i>&mdash;Take two quarts of potatoes, prepare and cook
+them by steam, peel carefully, and cut them in thick slices; place them
+on a dish and keep warm. Put four ounces of butter in a stewpan and set
+it on a slow fire; add, when melted, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+the juice of half a lemon, salt, pepper, and a pinch of allspice, stir
+ten minutes; afterward, put for five minutes on a quick fire, keep
+stirring, then pour on the potatoes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mashed.</i>&mdash;Peel and quarter about three pints of potatoes as directed;
+put them in a saucepan with more water than is necessary to cover them,
+and a little salt; set on the fire and boil gently till done, drain, put
+them back in the saucepan, mash them well and mix them with two ounces
+of butter, two yolks of eggs, salt, pepper, and milk enough to make them
+of a proper thickness. Set on the fire for two or three minutes,
+stirring the while, and serve warm. When on the dish, smooth them with
+the back of a knife or scallop them, according to fancy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mashed and baked.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on
+the fire; when hot, add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, and a
+little salt; five minutes after, put in it a quart of potatoes,
+prepared, cooked, peeled, and mashed, as directed; then pour on the
+whole, little by little, stirring continually with a wooden spoon, a
+pint of good milk; and when the whole is well mixed, and becoming rather
+thick, take from the fire, place on the dish, then set in a brisk oven
+for five minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Polanaise.</i>&mdash;Wash well about two quarts of potatoes, put them in a
+saucepan and cover with cold water, season with salt, half a dozen whole
+peppers, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and two or three onions in
+slices; boil gently till done, and drain. Peel the potatoes, cut them
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[336]</a></span>
+in two, dish and turn a <i>caper</i> sauce over them. Serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Proven&ccedil;ale.</i>&mdash;Peel and quarter about three pints of potatoes as
+directed. Put in a saucepan about a gill of oil with the potatoes, salt,
+pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, six sprigs of parsley, two cloves of garlic,
+and half the rind of a lemon; the three latter spices well chopped; set
+on a good fire, stir now and then till cooked, dish the whole, sprinkle
+the juice of one or two lemons on, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Put in a stewpan three tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, two cloves of garlic chopped very fine,
+a pinch of grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, salt, and pepper;
+set on a good fire, and when hot put in it a quart of potatoes prepared
+and cooked by steam, and cut in thick slices; subdue the fire, simmer
+about ten minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saut&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;Take a quart of young and tender potatoes, peel them with a
+brush, and cut in slices. Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on a
+quick fire; when hot, put the potatoes in, and fry them till of a golden
+color; place them on a dish without any butter, sprinkle chopped parsley
+and salt on, and serve. They may also be served without parsley,
+according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Souffl&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;Steam a quart of potatoes, then peel and mash them in a
+saucepan and mix an ounce of butter with them; set on the fire, pour
+into it, little by little, stirring the while, about half a pint of
+milk, stir a little longer after the milk is in and until they are
+turning rather thick; dish the potatoes, smooth or scallop them with the
+back of a knife, and put them in a quick oven till of a proper color,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Steam three pints of potatoes and peel and mash them in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_337" id="Page_337">[337]</a></span>
+a saucepan, then mix with them four ounces of butter, salt to taste,
+half a pint of milk, and eight yolks of eggs; set on the fire for two
+minutes, stirring the while, and take off. Beat six whites of eggs to a
+stiff froth, and mix them gently with the rest. Place the mixture on a
+dish, smooth with the back of a knife or scallop them, according to
+fancy, and put in a quick oven. As soon as the top gets a little dry,
+which will be in two or three minutes after being in the oven, take them
+off and quickly spread some melted butter all over, by means of a brush,
+and put back in the oven for two or three minutes longer, when take off
+again, spread butter over the same as the first time, etc. Repeat the
+same process two or three times, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;Steam two or three potatoes and peel and mash them in a
+bowl, then chop fine a small green onion or two shallots with two ounces
+of fat salt pork and six or eight sprigs of parsley; mix the whole with
+the potatoes; add also and mix with the rest about two ounces of butter,
+and salt and pepper to taste. If the potatoes are not warm enough to
+melt the butter while mixing, it should be melted first. Clean and wash
+well six potatoes of an even size and split them in two lengthwise; then
+with a small iron spoon remove the middle part of each half, so as to
+leave only a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch. You have then a
+kind of shell, which you fill with the prepared mixture above, filling
+more than full, so that the top is convex, and which you smooth with the
+back of a knife. When the twelve halves are thus prepared, butter the
+bottom of a bakepan, lay the potatoes in with the mixture upward, and
+put in a warm oven. Take from the oven when about half done, and spread
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[338]</a></span>
+some melted butter all over by means of a brush; put back in the oven,
+finish the baking, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Cakes.</i>&mdash;Prepare and cook by steam a quart and a half of potatoes,
+peel and mash them; mix with them the yolks of five eggs, half a
+lemon-rind grated, and four ounces of fine white sugar. Put four ounces
+of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire; when melted, put the
+mixture in, stirring with a wooden spoon continually; as soon as it is
+in the stewpan, add the whites of the five eggs, well beaten; leave on
+the fire only the time necessary to mix the whole well together, and
+take off; when nearly cold, add, if handy, and while stirring, a few
+drops of orange-flower water; it gives a very good flavor; then put the
+whole in a tin mould greased a little with butter; place in a quick oven
+for about thirty-five minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Croquettes.</i>&mdash;Peel, quarter, and boil about a quart of potatoes as
+directed. Mash them in a saucepan and mix them with four yolks of eggs,
+two ounces of butter, salt, and about half a gill of milk; set on the
+fire, stir for about two minutes, take off, spread on a dish and leave
+thus for two or three hours, and even over night when for breakfast.
+When left over night, they may be rather too dry to work them; then mix
+with a few drops of milk. No matter how long they have been left on the
+dish, it is necessary to mix them, that is, to mix the top, which is the
+driest part, with the rest. Dust the paste-board slightly with
+bread-crumbs, put the potatoes on it, in parts of about a tablespoonful
+each; then, with the hands and a knife, shape them according to fancy,
+either round, flat, or oval, etc. When shaped round they look like a
+piece of sausage about two inches and a half long. If wished flat, when
+shaped round, just flatten them a little with the blade of a knife. Then
+dip each part in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[339]</a></span>
+(<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>.) Take them off the fat when done, turn them into a
+colander, and immediately dish, and serve them as warm as possible.
+Potato <i>croquettes</i> are sometimes called potato-balls. When the
+<i>croquettes</i> are shaped flat, they are also called "<i>&agrave; la duchesse</i>."</p>
+
+<p><i>Another Duchesse.</i>&mdash;When the potatoes are ready to be spread on the
+dish to cool, put them in the pastry-bag and squeeze them out of it like
+lady's fingers, bake, and serve warm. It makes a sightly dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Matelote.</i>&mdash;Prepare and cook a quart and a half of potatoes, and
+peel and cut them in thick slices. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter
+the size of an egg, and set it on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in it
+a teaspoonful of flour, also the same of chopped parsley, salt, and
+pepper, then the potatoes, wet with half a pint of claret wine, same of
+broth; boil gently till the sauce is reduced, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Butter, or English Fashion.</i>&mdash;Put water on the fire with
+considerable salt in it; at the first boil, drop a quart of washed
+potatoes in and boil till done, when take off, peel, and put them whole
+in a saucepan, with butter, salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg; set on a
+rather slow fire, stirring gently now and then till they have absorbed
+all the butter. Serve warm. They absorb a great deal of butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Bacon or Salt Pork.</i>&mdash;Peel and quarter about a quart of potatoes.
+Set a saucepan on the fire with about four ounces of fat salt pork cut
+in dice in it. When fried put the potatoes in. Season with a bunch of
+seasonings composed of two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, and a
+bay-leaf; salt and pepper to taste, and about half a pint of broth or
+water. Boil gently till cooked, remove the bunch of seasonings; skim off
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[340]</a></span>
+the fat if any, and serve warm. It is served at breakfast, as well as
+<i>entremets</i> for dinner.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cream or Milk.</i>&mdash;Peel and mash a quart of potatoes, when prepared
+and cooked. Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on a good
+fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour, same of
+chopped parsley, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and salt; stir with a wooden
+spoon five minutes; then add the potatoes, and half a pint of milk or
+cream; keep stirring ten minutes longer, take from the fire, sprinkle in
+them half a tablespoonful of sugar, and serve as warm as possible.</p>
+
+<p><i>With White Sauce.</i>&mdash;Clean, wash, and throw a quart of potatoes in
+boiling water, with a sprig of thyme, two onions, a bay-leaf, two sprigs
+of sweet basil, two cloves, salt, and pepper; when cooked, take the
+potatoes out carefully, peel and cut them in two, place them on a warm
+dish, pour on them a white sauce, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sweet Potatoes.</i>&mdash;They are prepared in the same and every way like the
+others above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pumpkins and Squashes.</i>&mdash;Peel, take out the seed, cut in pieces, and
+throw them in boiling water with a little salt; drain when cooked and
+mash through a colander, put butter in a stewpan on the fire, when
+melted, add chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the pumpkin or squash,
+and simmer ten minutes; after which pour in it half a pint of milk,
+little by little, stirring the while; leave ten minutes longer on the
+fire, and take off; mix well in it two or three yolks of eggs, and serve
+warm. The quantity of milk, butter, eggs, etc., to be according to the
+quantity of squash.</p>
+
+<p><i>Purslain.</i>&mdash;Clean, wash well, and drop it in boiling water with a
+little salt, boil till cooked, take off and drain. Put butter in a
+stewpan on the fire, and when melted lay the purslain in, stir a little
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[341]</a></span>
+and sprinkle on it, little by little, a pinch of flour; season with
+salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, stir and simmer about ten minutes,
+take from the fire, mix in it one or two beaten eggs, and serve.
+Purslain is much more used in Europe than here; there it is cultivated
+as other vegetables, but it does not grow as well as here.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rhubarb.</i>&mdash;Scrape and cut it in pieces about one inch long, and then
+blanch it for two minutes. Put it in a saucepan with two or three
+tablespoonfuls of cold water and set it on a rather sharp fire, toss or
+stir now and then till done, when sweeten to taste, dish, let cool, and
+serve. Rhubarb is very wholesome, and ought to be partaken of at least
+every other day. When prepared as above, it may be used to make pies.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0341.jpg" width="269" height="143" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Radishes.</i>&mdash;The cuts below are turnip-rooted red radishes, cut with a
+small knife, put in cold water for about an hour, and served with
+butter, as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>. Remove the outer leaves, leaving only four
+or five of the small centre ones, cut off the root close to the radish,
+and wash clean in cold water. Take the radish with the left hand holding
+it by the centre leaves, cut the skin from the top downward to near the
+leaves, in several parts, but without detaching it, and as seen in the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[342]</a></span>
+cuts above; do the same carefully with the body of the radish, and it
+will look more like a rose than like a radish. After having prepared two
+or three, it will be comparatively easy. The centre leaves must be
+eaten, as well as the body of the radish; they contain a substance that
+helps the digestion of the radish itself.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salsify, or Oyster-Plant.</i>&mdash;Scrape them, and throw one by one as they
+are scraped into cold water, with a few drops of vinegar; when they are
+all scraped, move them a little, take out of the water, and throw them
+in boiling water with a little salt, boil till tender, and drain; place
+them warm on a warm dish, and serve with brown butter, a <i>ma&icirc;tre
+d'h&ocirc;tel</i>, or white sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;When boiled as above, drain them. Then dip each in batter for
+frying vegetables, drop them in hot fat, and take them off with a
+skimmer when done, turn into a colander, salt them, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>In B&eacute;chamel.</i>&mdash;While the salsify is boiling as directed above, make a
+<i>B&eacute;chamel</i> sauce; drain the salsify when done, and turn it into the
+<i>B&eacute;chamel</i> sauce as soon as the latter is finished; keep on the fire for
+about two minutes, stirring the while, and serve warm. They are prepared
+and served in the same way with the following sauces: <i>cream</i>,
+<i>poulette</i>, and <i>white</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Skirret.</i>&mdash;Prepare, cook, and serve in every way like parsnips.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sorrel.</i>&mdash;Sorrel is found in a wild state nearly everywhere; that is,
+where green plants vegetate. It is an excellent vegetable, good to eat
+all the year round, but especially in the spring and summer. It is very
+healthful, containing the pure oxalic acid as it is formed by Nature.
+Sorrel is the greatest neutralizer of acrid substances. A few leaves
+chewed, take away from the teeth that disagreeable feeling left after
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[343]</a></span>
+having eaten a tart apple or other tart, unripe fruit. Cultivated in a
+rich soil, the leaves grow nearly as large as those of the rhubarb. It
+is cut to the ground several times during the spring and summer.</p>
+
+<p><i>To boil.</i>&mdash;Take a peck of sorrel, separate the stalk from the eatable
+part, by taking hold of it with one hand and tearing off the rest with
+the other, so that only the stalk and fibres attached to it will remain
+after the tearing, and which you throw away. Wash it well, drain and set
+it on the fire in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir
+occasionally, and when nearly done, take off, mash through a colander,
+and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au jus.</i>&mdash;Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, set
+it on the fire, and when melted, put the sorrel in after being boiled
+and mashed as above, stir half a minute, add a tablespoonful of flour;
+stir another half minute, add also half a gill of gravy, same of broth,
+salt, stir two minutes, and serve. Hard-boiled eggs, split in four
+pieces, lengthwise, may be placed around the dish, if the sorrel is
+served as an <i>entremets</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>To preserve for Winter Use.</i>&mdash;When boiled and mashed as above, put it
+in stone or glass jars; when cold, turn melted butter or lard over it;
+cover as tightly as possible with paper, and when perfectly cold, put
+away in a dark, dry, and rather cool place, and it will keep very well
+during the whole winter. The best time to preserve it is at the
+beginning of November, just before the cold weather sets in.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pur&eacute;e of.</i>&mdash;When prepared as for <i>au jus</i>, but without gravy, it is a
+<i>pur&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Spinach&mdash;to boil.</i>&mdash;When cleaned and washed, throw it in boiling water
+at the first boiling, with a pinch of salt, and boil till done. It will
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[344]</a></span>
+take from one to ten minutes to boil, according to how tender it is.
+Turn into a colander; press on it to force the water out, put on the
+paste-board and chop it fine.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au jus.</i>&mdash;When chopped, set the spinach on the fire in a saucepan with
+a little broth, two or three tablespoonfuls for a small measure; stir,
+add as much gravy, an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of flour, salt,
+stir two minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au jus in Winter.</i>&mdash;When prepared as above, put it away in a bowl in a
+cool place, for one day; then set it back on the fire in a pan, add a
+little butter and a little broth, stir and just warm it, when put away
+again; repeat this for four or five days in succession, and you
+certainly will have an excellent dish. Some hard-boiled eggs cut in four
+pieces, lengthwise, may be placed around the spinach when dished, also
+some <i>croutons</i>. Spinach is generally served on a flat dish, and
+scalloped all around with a knife.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sugar.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for spinach <i>au jus</i> in every particular,
+except that you put very little salt, and one or two teaspoonfuls of
+sugar, according to taste. Lady-fingers or pieces of sponge-cake may be
+placed all around the dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Cr&egrave;me.</i>&mdash;Boil and chop the spinach as directed. Set it on the fire
+in a saucepan, stir till perfectly dry, but not burnt; add two ounces of
+butter, and stir again for five or six minutes; then add about two
+tablespoonfuls of cream to a small measure of spinach; stir again five
+minutes, take from the fire; add again one ounce of butter, stir two
+minutes, and serve with hard-boiled eggs or <i>croutons</i>, or both. Milk
+may be used instead of cream when the latter cannot be had, but it is
+inferior in taste.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[345]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Anchovy.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above, using a tablespoonful of
+essence of anchovy instead of cream.</p>
+
+<p><i>Spinach au Beurre, or &agrave; l'anglaise.</i>&mdash;Boil and chop the spinach as
+directed. Put it in a saucepan with butter; set on the fire, stir till
+the butter is melted and mixed with the spinach, salt to taste, and
+serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sprouts.</i>&mdash;Boil, prepare, and serve sprouts the same as spinach.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tomatoes</i> are, like sorrel and rhubarb, very healthful.</p>
+
+<p><i>To blanch.</i>&mdash;After they are washed, throw boiling water over them, and
+then take off and remove the skin.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stewed, to serve with Meat or Fish.</i>&mdash;When blanched as above, put the
+tomatoes in a stewpan with butter, salt, and pepper, set on the fire and
+simmer for about forty-five minutes; serve warm all around the fish or
+piece of meat. Tomatoes may be eaten raw, with or without salt; in no
+matter what way they are partaken of, they are not yet known to have
+indisposed anybody. Although great quantities are consumed in this and
+other countries, still many more ought to be used; they are so easily
+preserved, that every family ought to have a large provision of them for
+the winter and spring consumption.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed.</i>&mdash;Soak in cold water one-fourth of a ten-cent loaf of bread,
+etc.; when perfectly soaked, squeeze it with the hands. Take six
+tomatoes, as much of an even size as possible, cut the top off; that is,
+the side opposite the stem, and with a small spoon take out the inside
+and put it in a bowl, and then turn into a colander to let the liquid
+part run off. Put about an ounce of butter in a saucepan, and when
+melted add a small onion chopped; stir, and when nearly fried add also
+the part of the tomatoes in the colander also chopped; stir half a
+minute; put in the soaked bread, stir and mix; then salt, pepper, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[346]</a></span>
+grated nutmeg; give one boil more, and take from the fire. Fill the
+tomatoes with this mixture, dust with bread-crumbs, put a piece of
+butter the size of a hazel-nut on each, and bake. Just before serving,
+wet with a little tomato-sauce, broth, or gravy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Turnips&mdash;to boil.</i>&mdash;Clean, scrape, and wash well, then put them in a
+saucepan, either whole or in slices, or cut with a fruit-corer or with a
+vegetable spoon, add cold water enough to boil them in, a little salt,
+set on the fire and boil gently till tender; then take off, drain, drop
+in cold water, drain again, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>In B&eacute;chamel.</i>&mdash;While the turnips are boiling as described above, make a
+<i>B&eacute;chamel</i> sauce and turn the turnips in as soon as made; boil gently
+about two minutes, stirring the while, and serve warm. Do exactly the
+same with a cream or white sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au jus.</i>&mdash;Boil and drain them as directed above, then put them in a
+saucepan with a little gravy, set on the fire, stir now and then for
+about ten minutes, add a teaspoonful of <i>meuni&egrave;re</i>, stir again for two
+or three minutes, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sugar.</i>&mdash;Cut with a fruit-corer or with a vegetable spoon about a
+pint of turnips, and boil them till under done, then drain. Put the
+turnips in a saucepan with two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, set on
+a good fire, toss occasionally for about ten minutes, then add two or
+three tablespoonfuls of sugar, toss again now and then for ten minutes
+longer, and serve. It may take a little longer or less time than
+described above, according to the state of the turnips; if young and
+very tender, keep on the fire five instead of ten minutes, and if old,
+it may take fifteen minutes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Glazed.</i>&mdash;Cut the turnips with a vegetable spoon, boil them for five
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[347]</a></span>
+minutes, and drain them. Put half a gill of broth in a saucepan with
+about one pint of turnips and set on a good fire; toss and stir now and
+then till done, and till the broth is all boiled away. If it boils away
+before the turnips are cooked, add more and finish the cooking. When
+done, sprinkle about three ounces of sugar on them, stir for about one
+minute, dish the turnips, dredge powdered sugar all over, put in the
+oven two minutes, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Water-cress.</i>&mdash;This contains much sulphur, and is the greatest
+anti-scorbutic known. Besides being eaten with salt or in salad, it may
+also be stewed in the following way: Take only the top and the leaves
+around the stalk; clean and wash it well; throw it in boiling water with
+a little salt, and when cooked drain it well, so as to extract all the
+water from it. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan;
+when melted, put the cress in, sprinkle on it a tablespoonful of flour
+(for three quarts); stir continually with a spoon, boil ten minutes,
+then add salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and half a pint of broth;
+boil ten minutes longer, and serve either alone, or with hard-boiled
+eggs on it; cut the eggs in two or four pieces.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salads.</i>&mdash;Salads are seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, and
+sometimes with mustard also. The best oil is that made of olives, but
+much is sold for olive-oil which contains more lard than oil. It is
+impossible to tell which is pure by the color. Pure olive-oil is of a
+pale-yellow-greenish color. It is very easy to tell the pure oil by
+tasting, but of course it is necessary to know the real taste of good
+oil.</p>
+
+<p>The best vinegar is wine-vinegar, with <i>tarragon</i> in it (<i>vinaigre &agrave;
+l'estragon</i>), but it is expensive. Next to it is cider-vinegar. Beer
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[348]</a></span>
+makes good vinegar, but inferior to that made with cider. Pyrolignic
+vinegar is very unhealthy. No one can be too careful in selecting
+vinegar. The superiority of the French mustard comes from the compounds
+used, and not from the way it is made, as thought by many. In the French
+mustard, besides <i>vinaigre &agrave; l'estragon</i>, there is white wine, and more
+sweet-oil than in any other kind. A good deal of mustard is made here,
+and often sold as French, after being carefully labelled.</p>
+
+<p>Salad is made with every species of lettuce; chicory, cultivated and
+wild; cabbages, red and white; cauliflowers, celery, dandelion,
+corn-salad, purslain, water-cress, etc. If it were possible to clean the
+salad by merely wiping the leaves with a towel, it would be better than
+washing; but it must be washed if there is any earth or sand on it. The
+salad should be made by an experienced person, who can judge at a glance
+what quantity of salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar is necessary. The
+quantities cannot be given, as that depends on the quantity of salad.
+Chopped parsley and chives are served on a small plate at the same time
+with the salad, as many persons like those spices.</p>
+
+<p><i>Celery.</i>&mdash;When the celery is washed and cleaned, wipe it dry, cut the
+white or eatable part (the top or green part is used for soup) in pieces
+about one inch long, put them in the salad-dish with salt, vinegar, and
+mustard, stir a little, leave thus about one hour, then add pepper and
+oil, move again, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lettuce.</i>&mdash;Lettuce, and especially Cos or Roman lettuce, must be
+handled very gingerly, in order not to wilt the leaves while cleaning
+and washing. When the head of the lettuce, especially of Roman lettuce,
+is hard, it is not necessary to wash it at all, as when the outer leaves
+are taken off, the rest is perfectly clean. Never use the knife, but
+break the leaves; put them in the salad-dish; spread all over the dish,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[349]</a></span>
+according to taste and fancy, the blossoms and petals (not the leaves)
+of any or all of the following plants: burnet, wild chiccory, rose (any
+kind), pink, sage, lady's-slipper, marsh-mallow, nasturtium, periwinkle.
+Thus decorated, the salad is put on the table at the setting of it, and
+made when the time for eating it comes. Of these decorative flowers, the
+handiest are the rose and pink, as at every season of the year they are
+easily obtained. In spring and summer most of the others can also be had
+easily.</p>
+
+<p>The salad, thus decorated, is placed on the table at the same time with
+the soup. It is made while the roast-piece is carved or eaten; the
+petals of flowers or blossoms are not removed, and, of course, are eaten
+with the lettuce. The salad is seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, and
+oil. The proportions are two tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar for
+a salad for three, four, or five persons. It is generally moved round in
+the dish, so as to impregnate every leaf with the seasoning. It is
+served immediately after the roast-piece.</p>
+
+<p>Cream may be used instead of oil.</p>
+
+<p><i>Turnip-rooted Celery (called also Soup Celery.</i>)&mdash;Clean, wash well, and
+scrape it carefully; cut it in thin slices, place it in the salad-dish,
+sprinkle salt, pepper, vinegar, and mustard on it, mix well the whole
+together, and leave thus from four to six hours. Then throw away the
+vinegar, or most of it; add very little salt and vinegar, oil, and move
+well. Serve as above, that is, immediately after the roast-piece of the
+dinner.</p>
+
+<p>A salad with cabbage, chiccory, corn-salad, or any kind of greens, after
+being properly cleaned, washed, wiped dry, and cut in pieces if
+necessary, is made and served exactly like a salad of lettuce described
+above.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[350]</a></span>
+<p><i>Nasturtium.</i>&mdash;This is said to be a native of Mexico; it makes a good
+salad in summer-time. Make and serve like a salad of lettuce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chervil and Sorrel.</i>&mdash;In Italy, Spain, and the south of France, they
+make salad with these two vegetables, half of each, prepared and served
+like lettuce.</p>
+
+<p>Some persons like a thick sauce with salad; it is made thus: Put a
+hard-boiled yolk of egg in a bowl, mash it, and then mix with it salt
+and a tablespoonful of vinegar; when these three are thoroughly mixed,
+add pepper and oil (about two tablespoonfuls of oil), little by little,
+stirring and mixing well the while; turn the mixture over the salad, and
+move as directed above. The mixture may be prepared in the salad-dish,
+and the salad put in afterward.</p>
+
+<p>Mustard should never be used with lettuce; it is too strong to be eaten
+with such tender vegetables.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Salsify.</i>&mdash;In the spring, when the top of the salsify has grown for
+one or two weeks only, and immediately after the frost is out of the
+ground, cut it off, split it in four, wash it well, drain it dry, and
+prepare as a salad of lettuce. The root is prepared as described for
+salsify, and is never made in salad.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Cucumbers.</i>&mdash;Peel and slice them, then put them in a vessel, salt
+every layer, and leave thus in a cool place about one hour, drain them
+dry and then dress them with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper; slices of
+onion may be added, if liked.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Beans.</i>&mdash;Boil the beans in water with a little salt, drain them dry,
+and then dress them with parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, oil, and
+vinegar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Beets.</i>&mdash;Boil the beets in water only till done, and when cool, peel
+and slice them, and prepare them with pepper, salt, vinegar, and oil.
+The beets may be baked.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[351]</a></span>
+<p><i>Of Eggs.</i>&mdash;Slice hard-boiled eggs, and dress them with chopped parsley,
+salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Lentils.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for beans in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Onions.</i>&mdash;Bake the onions, then peel and slice them, and dress them
+with mustard, salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Tomatoes.</i>&mdash;Wash, wipe dry, and slice the tomatoes; slice also
+onions and mix with them, the quantity to be according to taste; then
+season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Walnuts.</i>&mdash;The European walnut only can be used, and as soon as good
+to eat; that is, before the outer shell dries and opens. Break the nuts
+in two, take out the kernels with a pointed knife, and place them in a
+salad-dish, with some juice of grapes not yet ripe; add salt and pepper,
+leave thus two or three hours, moving now and then, and serve. The
+edible part will be found very good eaten that way. To persons who have
+never eaten any, it may appear a strange dish, but let them try it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Potatoes.</i>&mdash;A potato-salad is the one that requires the most
+seasonings, especially oil and vinegar. They are better served warm than
+cold, although many prefer them in the latter state. When steamed,
+peeled, and sliced, put them in the salad-dish, with salt, pepper,
+vinegar, oil, and parsley, to taste. Mix the whole gently and well, and
+serve. If served very warm, butter may be used instead of oil.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Add to the above a few anchovies, or slices of pickled
+cucumbers, or capers, or pickled beets.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Add to the first some slices of truffles, previously soaked
+in Madeira wine for ten hours, and also a little of the wine.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Put a hard-boiled yolk of egg in the salad-dish, with two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[352]</a></span>
+tablespoonfuls of oil, and mix well so as to make a paste of them; then
+add two anchovies, a piece of tunny the size of a nutmeg, and half a
+dozen sprigs of chervil, the whole chopped fine; mix again with the
+rest; add also a chopped pickled cucumber, mustard to taste, vinegar,
+and then the slices of potatoes (warm or cold), slices of truffles
+previously soaked in Madeira wine, a little of the wine also, salt, and
+pepper; stir and mix again well, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apricots, Oranges, Peaches, Pears, Strawberries, Raspberries,
+Blackberries, Currants, and like Berries, in Salad.</i>&mdash;Dust the bottom of
+a dish with white sugar, put a layer of slices of apricots, oranges,
+peaches, or pears, or a layer of the others entire, and dust again;
+repeat the same till the whole is in, then add over the whole a pinch of
+grated nutmeg, with French brandy or rum to suit your taste, and serve
+as a dessert.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cocoa-nut.</i>&mdash;Peel it carefully and soak it in brandy for twenty-four
+hours. A little sugar may be added; serve as a dessert.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salad Mac&eacute;doine.</i>&mdash;This salad ought to be called "compound salad," as
+it is made of a little of every thing that can be served in salad, i.
+e., fish, meat, green and dry vegetables, &amp;c. When the whole is mixed,
+you add chopped parsley, sweet-oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper; you shake
+it till your arms are sore, and you have a salad <i>Mac&eacute;doine</i>. Every one
+should try it; serve as an <i>entremets</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Salmon and Turbot.</i>&mdash;Cut in slices, place them in a salad-dish, with
+hard-boiled eggs cut in two, or with some lettuce, and serve as a
+<i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Pineapple.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for that of apricots, etc., in every
+particular.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[353]</a></span>
+<p><i>Of Anchovy.</i>&mdash;Clean and bone the anchovies, and then place them in the
+middle of a dish; chop fine some hard-boiled yolks of eggs and put a
+string of it around the anchovies; do the same with the whites, and then
+put a string of chopped parsley around the whites; season with oil and
+very little vinegar. Serve as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pickles and Preserves.</i>&mdash;To pickle the fruit, it must be pickled before
+commencing to ripen, and be sound; the same for vegetables. When the
+fruit or vegetable is clean, and cut in pieces, if necessary, such as
+cabbage, have water on the fire, and drop it in at the first boil. If
+the fruit or vegetable is desired white, add to the water lemon or
+unripe grape juice. It is necessary to be very careful in blanching,
+for, if too much blanched or cooked, it will be soft and tasteless; if
+not enough, it will ferment. As a general rule, it is cooked as soon as
+it floats, but it can be ascertained by running a skewer or a small
+knife through it. By putting some fresh spinach-leaves or fresh
+grape-vine-leaves on the top of the fruit or vegetable, it will keep it
+more green than without. When blanched, take from the fire and drain.
+Drop it immediately in cold water, and drain again. When dry, put the
+fruit or vegetable in jars, cover it with boiling vinegar; season with
+peppers, pepper-corns, cloves, and tarragon, also some rock-salt. When
+perfectly cold, seal the jars air-tight, and keep in a dark, cool, and
+dry closet. Every kind of fruit or vegetables can be pickled in the same
+way; the only difference is in the time of blanching or cooking, which
+is according to the nature of the fruit: <i>apples</i>, <i>string-beans</i>,
+<i>beets</i>, <i>cabbages</i>, <i>cauliflowers</i>, <i>cherries</i>, <i>cucumbers</i>, <i>lemons</i>,
+<i>melons</i>, <i>mushrooms</i>, <i>onions</i>, <i>peaches</i>, <i>pears</i>, <i>plums</i>,
+<i>pumpkins</i>, <i>quinces</i>, <i>radishes</i>, <i>walnuts</i>, etc., may also be
+preserved in salt and water, and in the following way: When cooked as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[354]</a></span>
+above, put them in jars and cover them with very salt water. Seal when
+cool, and then put the jars in a boiler full of cold water, with straw
+or rags to prevent breaking them; set on the fire, boil from twenty to
+thirty minutes, take from the fire, let cool; then take the jars from
+the water and put away as the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Peas</i> and <i>mushrooms</i> are almost always preserved in water and salt.</p>
+
+<p><i>Asparagus</i> is also preserved, but it is so difficult to succeed, that
+even manufacturers of preserves have given it up.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tomatoes.</i>&mdash;Wash them and then bruise them in a boiler; set on the
+fire, boil half an hour, and strain, to secure all the juice. Put the
+juice on the fire, boil till reduced about one-half, let cool, put in
+jars, seal them, put them in a boiler of cold water, with straw or rags
+to prevent breakage; set the boiler on the fire, boil twenty minutes,
+take off, let cool. When perfectly cold, take the jars off, place in a
+cool, dark cellar, and we warrant that they keep for years. No salt or
+seasonings of any kind are used to preserve them. When you wish to use
+them, season to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tomato Catsup.</i>&mdash;To make catsup with the above sauce, you have only to
+add to it, when in jars, peppers, pimento, cloves, etc.; but it is
+really not necessary, being too strong for this climate.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;Take good and well-ripened tomatoes, clean and wash them
+well, put them in a stewpan and set it on a moderate fire for a while;
+take from the fire, throw away the water coming from them, and then
+strain them into a vessel. Put what there is in the vessel back on the
+fire, and in the same stewpan, and let it reduce about one-half; take
+from the fire, pour in a crockery pot, and leave thus twenty-four hours;
+then put in bottles, cork well, and place them in a cold and dry place.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[355]</a></span>
+<p><i>Cucumbers</i>.&mdash;The small green ones are the best. Clean them well in cold
+water with a brush, removing the prickles. Put cold water in a vessel
+with rock-salt in it, and shake it to dissolve the salt; soak the
+cucumbers in it for about three days. Take them out and immediately put
+them in pots or jars with small onions, a few cloves of garlic,
+pepper-corns, rock-salt, cloves, and a bunch of seasonings composed of
+bay-leaves, tarragon, and burnet; cover them with boiling vinegar (turn
+the vinegar on them as soon as it boils), cover the pots or jars
+air-tight when perfectly cold. Look at the cucumbers every two or three
+days for the first three weeks, and after that only once in a while.
+According to the quality of the vinegar or of the cucumber itself, the
+whole may turn white after a while; in that case throw away vinegar and
+spices, put new spices in, the same spices as above, except the onions,
+which you keep with the cucumbers; cover again with boiling vinegar, and
+cover when cold as before. If they have not been kept too long in that
+state before changing the vinegar, they will be just as good as if they
+had not turned white.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[356]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="EGGS" id="EGGS"></a>EGGS, MACARONI, AND RICE.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Eggs are fit to eat as soon as laid, and the sooner they are used the
+better. You ascertain if they are fresh with an oonoscope, or by holding
+them before a light and looking through. There are several ways to
+preserve eggs, but to do which they must be fresh; as soon as perfectly
+cold after being laid, they may be preserved. Dissolve gum in water to
+the consistency of thin mucilage, and with a brush give a coat of it to
+the eggs; lay them in a box of charcoal dust and keep them in a dry,
+dark, and cool place. When wanted, they are soaked in cold water for a
+few minutes, and washed. They are also preserved in hydrate of lime.
+When boiled hard, let them cool and place them in a dry, cool, and dark
+place; they will keep for weeks. If wanted warm after that, put them in
+cold water, set on the fire, and take off when the water is warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Cut in strips or fillets four mushrooms, one onion,
+one clove of garlic, and fry them with two ounces of butter, then add a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir for about one minute, add also half a pint
+of broth, same of white wine, boil gently till reduced about one-half,
+when put in the pan eight or ten hard-boiled eggs cut in dice, or cut
+the whites only in dice and put in the yolk whole, boil one minute and
+serve. It makes an excellent dish for breakfast.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[357]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Cheese and Parsley.</i>&mdash;Put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan
+on the fire, and when melted fry in it a tablespoonful of parsley,
+chopped fine; then add a pinch of nutmeg, salt, pepper, about four
+ounces of pineapple or Gruy&egrave;re cheese, grated, and a gill of white wine;
+stir till the cheese is melted, when you add eight or ten eggs, one
+after another, stirring the whole time and mixing them with the cheese;
+serve when done. More cheese may be used, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Fricass&eacute;e.</i>&mdash;Put about half a pound of stale bread with one pint of
+milk in a saucepan on the fire and boil for two or three minutes, then
+mash well so as to mix the two together, put back on the fire, stir
+continually till it makes a rather thin paste, then take off, mix with
+it six or eight eggs, grated cheese to taste, salt and pepper, put back
+on the fire, stir, and serve when cooked. Lemon-juice may be sprinkled
+on just before serving.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Lyonnaise.</i>&mdash;Chop fine two white onions and fry them with two
+ounces of butter, then add salt, a pinch of nutmeg, half a pint of
+broth; boil gently and stir now and then till it turns rather thick,
+when you add also eight whites of eggs, chopped; give one boil, and
+serve. Place the eight yolks, whole, all around, and between and
+alternately a small cake <i>feuillet&eacute;</i>, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la B&eacute;chamel.</i>&mdash;Slice the eggs or cut them in four pieces lengthwise,
+put them in <i>B&eacute;chamel</i> sauce, set on a slow fire for two minutes, and
+serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fines Herbes.</i>&mdash;Mix well together in a saucepan, and cold, two ounces
+of butter with a tablespoonful of flour; set on the fire, stir, and when
+melted thoroughly, add a teaspoonful of parsley and one of chives,
+chopped fine, salt, pepper, and about a gill of white wine; stir, and
+boil gently for about five minutes, and turn over hard-boiled eggs in a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[358]</a></span>
+dish; serve warm. The eggs are served whole, shelled, but not cut.</p>
+
+<p><i>Piquante-Sauce.</i>&mdash;Dish hard-boiled eggs as for <i>fines herbes</i>, and turn
+over them a <i>piquante sauce</i>; serve warm. They may be served in the same
+way with any other sauce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Stuffed, or &agrave; l'Aurore.</i>&mdash;Cut six hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise;
+take the yolks off the whites; chop them fine with six or eight sprigs
+of parsley, put both eggs and parsley in a bowl; add salt, pepper, a
+little nutmeg grated, a piece of the soft part of bread soaked in milk
+and squeezed, three ounces of butter, mix the whole well. Then with the
+mixture fill the whites, that is, the place where the yolks were; fill a
+little more than full, so that all the mixture will go into and upon the
+twelve halves. Lay in a saucepan a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of spinach or of sorrel, or
+of any other vegetable, according to taste; lay the halves of eggs on
+it, the mixture upward; put for ten minutes in the oven, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Boxes.</i>&mdash;Fold note-paper so as to make a kind of square box without
+a cover; put half an ounce of butter in it with a pinch of chopped
+parsley; lay it on a gridiron and on a slow fire, break an egg in it,
+and when nearly done add salt and bread-crumbs, to taste; serve warm
+when done.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cheese.</i>&mdash;Prepare as the above; add grated cheese at the same time
+you add salt and bread-crumbs; finish the cooking, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Gratin.</i>&mdash;Chop fine six or eight sprigs of parsley, a shallot if
+handy, or a small onion, half an ounce of the soft part of bread, an
+anchovy, and then mix the whole well with two ounces of butter; mix
+again with two yolks of eggs, place the mixture in a tin dish, place on
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[359]</a></span>
+a slow fire, and when getting rather dry break half a dozen eggs over
+it, dust with bread-crumbs, season with salt and pepper, and when nearly
+done spread two yolks of eggs beaten, with a teaspoonful of water over
+the whole, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Ham.</i>&mdash;Prepare as scrambled eggs with the exception that you put
+in the pan, at the same time you put in the eggs, four ounces of boiled
+ham cut in dice. Serve the same.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Milk, Water, or Cream.</i>&mdash;These three names are wrongly applied to
+eggs in many cook-books; they are creams, and not eggs.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ham and Eggs.</i>&mdash;There are several ways of preparing this good dish; the
+ham may be raw or boiled; in slices or in dice; mixed with the eggs, or
+merely served under. Fry the ham slightly, dish it and then turn fried
+eggs over it; or fry both at the same time, the eggs being whole or
+scrambled, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Asparagus.</i>&mdash;Cut in pieces, about a quarter of an inch long, a
+gill of the tender part of asparagus, throw it in boiling water with a
+little salt; boil as directed, and drain. Beat eight eggs just enough to
+mix the yolks with the whites; put them in a stewpan, season with a
+pinch of grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper; add also a tablespoonful of
+warm water, set on a slow fire, stir till they are becoming thick; then
+add four ounces of butter, stir five minutes longer; add the gill of
+asparagus; simmer about five minutes longer, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Boiled.</i>&mdash;(<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Eggs in the Shell</span>.)&mdash;Put the eggs in boiling water
+with a little salt, as near as possible at the first boiling; leave from
+five to ten minutes; take out and put them immediately in cold water;
+then shell them without breaking them, and use.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[360]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Brown Butter.</i>&mdash;Break gently in a plate or dish, and without
+breaking the yolks, eight eggs; sprinkle salt and pepper on them. Put
+two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and on a good fire; when turning
+brown subdue the fire. Put also, and at the same time, the same quantity
+of butter in another frying-pan, and on a good fire, and when hot, place
+the eggs in without breaking the yolks; then spread over the eggs the
+brown butter you have in the other; take from the fire when you see the
+whites becoming hard; put them on a dish, pour on them a tablespoonful
+of vinegar which you have warmed in the pan after having used the brown
+butter, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fried.</i>&mdash;Put half a pound of lard in a frying-pan, and on a good fire;
+when hot, break gently, one by one (being careful not to break the
+yolk), the quantity of eggs you can put in the pan without allowing them
+to adhere together; turn them upside down once with a spoon or skimmer;
+take from the pan with a skimmer as soon as the white part becomes hard,
+and serve with fried parsley around.</p>
+
+<p><i>Scrambled, or Mashed.</i>&mdash;Beat six eggs just enough to mix the whites and
+yolks together; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and set on the
+fire; when melted, take from the fire, add salt, pepper, and a pinch of
+grated nutmeg, then the eggs, also a tablespoonful of broth; put back on
+a very slow fire, stir continually till cooked, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sur le Plat.</i>&mdash;Butter the bottom of a crockery or tin dish with two
+ounces of butter; break into the dish and over the butter, gently and
+without breaking the yolks, six eggs; sprinkle salt, pepper, and grated
+nutmeg all over, put the dish on a slow fire, or on warm cinders, and
+when the white is hard, serve. They must be served in the dish in which
+they are cooked.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_361" id="Page_361">[361]</a></span>
+<p><i>In the Shell.</i>&mdash;Bear in mind that some eggs cook quicker than others.
+Put eggs in boiling water for two minutes, if liked soft or underdone;
+and three minutes, if liked more done. They are generally served
+enveloped in a napkin.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Matelote.</i>&mdash;Put a bottle of claret wine in a stewpan and set it on a
+good fire; add to it two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a clove of
+garlic, a middling-sized onion, a clove, a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper;
+boil fifteen minutes; then take all the seasonings out and have your
+wine boiling gently; break one egg in by letting it fall gently in order
+to have it entire, and then take it out immediately with a skimmer, and
+place it on a dish; do the same with eight eggs; keep them in a warm
+(but not hot) place. After which put in the wine, without taking it from
+the fire, four ounces of butter kneaded with a tablespoonful of flour;
+boil till reduced to a proper thickness, pour it on the eggs, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Onions.</i>&mdash;Cut in dice three middling-sized onions and put them in
+a saucepan with four ounces of butter; set it on a moderate fire and
+stir now and then till the onions are turning yellow, then sprinkle on
+them a teaspoonful of flour, salt, and pepper; add a pint of warm water
+and boil gently till rather thick, but not too much so. Put into the
+saucepan half a dozen hard-boiled eggs cut in four pieces each,
+lengthwise, boil gently two or three minutes longer, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Green Peas.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for eggs with asparagus, except that you
+boil a gill of peas instead of asparagus; prepare and serve in the same
+way.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cauliflowers.</i>&mdash;Blanch the cauliflowers and proceed as for the
+above. Eggs are prepared as above, with celery, lettuce, etc.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[362]</a></span>
+<p><i>A la Tripe.</i>&mdash;Proceed exactly the same as for eggs with onions, except
+that you use milk or broth instead of water.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Neige, or Floating Island.</i>&mdash;Beat four (or more) whites of eggs to
+a stiff froth. Put in a tin saucepan one pint of milk and one ounce of
+sugar, set on the fire, and as soon as it rises put lumps of the whites
+into it with a skimmer, turn the lumps over after having been in about
+half a minute, leave them in another half minute, take them off with a
+skimmer also, place them on a sieve to allow the milk that may be around
+the lumps to drop. Put in a tin saucepan four yolks of eggs, two ounces
+of sugar, and mix well; add the milk that has been used to cook the
+whites, after having strained it, and mix again. Set on the fire, stir,
+give one boil, take off, add a few drops of essence to flavor; turn into
+a dish; place the lumps of whites gently on the liquor and they will
+float, and serve cold. If the liquor is desired thicker, use only half
+of the milk.</p>
+
+<p><i>To poach Eggs.</i>&mdash;Set cold water on the fire in a frying-pan, with salt
+and vinegar in it, a tablespoonful of vinegar to a quart of water. As
+soon as it boils, break a fresh egg in the water or in a small plate,
+and slide it gently into the water. Then with a skimmer turn the white
+gently and by degrees over the yolk, so as to envelop the latter in the
+former, giving the eggs an elongated shape. They may be poached hard or
+soft&mdash;hard when the yolk is cooked hard; soft when the yolk is still in
+a soft state.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fondue of Eggs.</i>&mdash;Beat well six eggs, and put them in a stewpan with
+two ounces of <i>Gruy&egrave;re</i>, well grated, and about one ounce of butter; set
+on a brisk fire, and leave till it becomes rather thick, stirring all
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[363]</a></span>
+the time with a wooden spoon; take from the fire, add pepper, and stir
+a little; turn over on a warm dish, and serve. This is a very favorite
+dish in Italy, and also in Switzerland, where it originated.</p>
+
+<p><i>To beat Whites of Eggs.</i>&mdash;Have a convenient basin; break the eggs
+gently; allow the whites to fall in the basin and retain the yolks in
+the shell. This is very easily done by breaking the shell about the
+middle, opening slowly so as to let the white fall, and at the same time
+retain the yolk in one of the halves of the shell; if some white
+remains, turn the yolk from one half into the other, and <i>vice versa</i>,
+till the whole of it has fallen. Then add a very small pinch of salt to
+prevent the curdling of the eggs; commence by beating slowly; beat
+faster and faster, till they form a stiff froth. They are well beaten
+when, placing a twenty-five and a ten-cent silver piece on the top, they
+are firm enough to bear them. If the pieces sink, beat again. Always
+beat eggs in a cool place, they will rise better and faster. (<i>See</i>
+<span class="smcap">Egg-beater</span>.)</p>
+
+<p><i>Basin.</i>&mdash;Pay no attention to the old prejudice and belief that metal is
+not good to beat eggs in. The best and easiest for family use, in which
+one as well as a dozen whites of eggs can be easily whisked, is of
+block-tin, and can be made by any tinsmith. It has the shape of an
+ordinary goblet or tumbler if the foot is cut off, the bottom being
+round. Size: six inches deep from the centre of the bottom to the top;
+eight inches in diameter at the top, and only six inches in diameter
+where the bottom commences (or five inches from the top); the basin
+being broader at the top than at the bottom, and the bottom being one
+inch deeper in the centre than on the sides.</p>
+
+<p><i>Omelets&mdash;how to beat the Eggs.</i>&mdash;Break in a bowl the quantity of eggs
+you want, or as many as there are persons at the table; beat them well
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[364]</a></span>
+with salt and pepper, by means of a fork. A little grated nutmeg may be
+added, if liked. The adding of milk to the eggs makes the omelet soft.</p>
+
+<p><i>To make it.</i>&mdash;Always have a brisk fire to make an omelet; the quicker
+it is made the better, and the less butter it requires. If possible,
+have a frying-pan to make omelets only in; keep it in a clean place and
+never wash it if you can help it; by warming it a little before making
+the omelets and wiping it with a coarse towel, you can keep it as clean
+as can be without washing. To wash it causes the omelet to adhere to it
+while cooking, and injures its appearance. Commence by beating the eggs,
+then put the butter in the frying-pan, about two ounces for eight eggs;
+set on the fire and toss gently to melt the butter as evenly and as
+quickly as possible, else some of it will get black before the whole is
+melted. As soon as melted, turn the beaten eggs in, and stir and move
+continually with a fork or knife, so as to cook the whole as nearly as
+possible at the same time. If some part of the omelet sticks to the pan,
+add a little butter, and raise that part with a knife so as to allow the
+butter to run under it, and prevent it from sticking again. It must be
+done quickly, and without taking the pan from the fire. When cooked
+according to taste, soft or hard, fold, dish, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>It is <i>folded</i> in this way: run the knife or fork under one part of the
+omelet, on the side nearest to the handle of the pan, and turn that part
+over the other part of the omelet, so as to double it or nearly so; then
+have an oval dish in your left hand, take hold of the frying-pan with
+the right hand, the thumb upward instead of the fingers, as is generally
+the case in taking hold of a pan, incline the dish by raising the left
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[365]</a></span>
+side, place the edge of the pan (the one opposite to the handle) on the
+edge of the dish, turn it upside down&mdash;and you have the omelet on the
+dish, doubled up and sightly. Cooks do not succeed in turning out a
+decent omelet generally, because they cook it too much, turn it upside
+down in the pan, or because they do not know how to handle the pan.</p>
+
+<p>In holding the pan as it is generally and naturally held, that is, with
+the palm of the hand resting on the upper side of the handle, it is
+impossible for anybody, cook or other, to dish the omelet properly
+without extraordinary efforts; while by resting the thumb on the upper
+part of the handle, the fingers under it, the little finger being the
+nearest to the pan, it is only necessary to move the right hand from
+right to left, describing a circle and twisting the wrist, so that, when
+the pan is turned upside down, the fingers are up instead of downward,
+as they were when taking hold of the pan.</p>
+
+<p>An omelet is called soft if, when you commence to fold, only about
+two-thirds of the eggs are solidified; and hard, when nearly the whole
+of the eggs are solidified. With a good fire it takes only about four
+minutes to make an omelet.</p>
+
+<p>By following our directions carefully, it will be very easy to make an
+omelet, and make it well and sightly, even the first time, and will be
+child's play to make one after a few days' practice.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Apples.</i>&mdash;Peel two or three apples, cut them in thin, round
+slices, fry them with a little butter, and take them from the pan; then
+put a little more butter in the pan, and when hot, pour in it six beaten
+eggs, in which you have mixed the slices of apples; cook, dish, and
+serve as directed above.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[366]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Asparagus.</i>&mdash;Cut the eatable part of the asparagus half an inch in
+length, throw them in boiling water with a little salt, drain them when
+cooked, and chop them fine; beat them with eggs and a little milk; have
+hot butter in a frying-pan on a good fire; pour the eggs in, tossing
+continually till done, and serve on a dish as directed.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Bacon.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan; when melted,
+add two ounces of bacon cut in dice; when turning brown and very hot,
+pour in eight eggs, beaten as directed above; toss the pan nearly all
+the time till done, and serve as directed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au naturel.</i>&mdash;Beat five eggs, with salt and pepper, as directed. Put
+about an ounce of butter in a frying-pan on the fire, and when melted,
+turn the eggs in; cook, dish, and serve as directed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Aux Fines Herbes.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for <i>au naturel</i> in every particular,
+except that you beat with the eggs a tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
+or parsley and chives, when handy; cook, dish, and serve in the same
+way.</p>
+
+<p><i>C&eacute;lestine.</i>&mdash;Beat eight eggs as directed. Dip the point of a small
+kitchen knife in water and cut with it little lumps of butter the size
+of a pea and of any shape; about two ounces of it, drop them in the eggs
+and beat a little to mix, then melt butter in a frying-pan and cook,
+dish, and serve as directed.</p>
+
+<p><i>In the Oven.</i>&mdash;When the omelet <i>au naturel</i> or <i>C&eacute;lestine</i> is cooked
+enough to commence folding, put the frying-pan in a quick oven for about
+one minute and serve. The omelet swells and does not need folding, but
+if it gains in bulk, it loses in taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Jardini&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;Chop fine, parsley, chives, onions, shallots, a few
+leaves of sorrel, and a few sprigs of chervil; beat and mix the whole
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_367" id="Page_367">[367]</a></span>
+well with beaten eggs; cook, dish, and serve as directed. It requires a
+little more butter than if made with eggs only.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cheese.</i>&mdash;Grate some pine-apple or <i>Gruy&egrave;re</i> cheese, about two
+ounces to four or five eggs, and mix and beat it with the eggs; then
+make the omelet as directed.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Kidney.</i>&mdash;<i>Saut&eacute;</i> as directed, till about half done, part of a
+beef or calf's kidney, or one sheep's kidney, and mix it with beaten
+eggs. Cook and serve as directed. It makes an excellent dish for
+breakfast. The kidney may be cooked till done, and when the omelet is to
+be folded in the pan, put five or six tablespoonfuls of the kidney on
+the middle of the omelet, fold, dish, and serve as directed. When
+dished, none of the kidney is seen, being under the omelet.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Mushrooms.</i>&mdash;Cut mushrooms in pieces, and mix them, with beaten
+eggs; then cook and serve them as directed. This also makes an excellent
+dish for breakfast, especially if made with fresh mushrooms.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sorrel.</i>&mdash;Make an omelet <i>au naturel</i> or <i>C&eacute;lestine</i>, and serve it
+on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of sorrel. The same may be served on a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of tomatoes
+or onions.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Lobster.</i>&mdash;Cut two ounces of boiled lobster in small dice, mix it
+well with beaten eggs, and cook and serve as directed.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sugar.</i>&mdash;Mix well the yolks of eight eggs with two ounces of fine
+white sugar and a pinch of salt, and beat well the whites; then mix well
+yolks, whites, and the rind of half a lemon, having the latter chopped
+very fine. Put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and set it on the
+fire; when melted, pour the eggs in, and toss and stir as directed. Then
+dust a dish with fine white sugar, put the omelet on, then dust again
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[368]</a></span>
+the upper side with the same; have ready a red-hot shovel, or any other
+flat piece of iron, pass it over the top of the omelet, so as to color
+it while melting the sugar, and serve warm. The whole process must be
+performed quickly. The sugar may be beaten with the eggs whole; both
+ways are good; it is only a question of taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Rum.</i>&mdash;Make an omelet with sugar as above, and when on the table,
+pour a gill or so of rum on it, set fire to it, and let it burn as long
+as it can, taking slowly but continually with a silver spoon the rum
+from the sides, and pouring it on the middle while it is burning, and
+until it dies out by itself; then eat immediately.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Truffles.</i>&mdash;Slice four ounces of truffles, beat them with six
+eggs, a little milk, and a little salt and pepper. Put in a frying-pan
+four ounces of butter, and set it on a good fire; when melted, pour the
+eggs in, toss almost continually till done, and serve as directed for
+omelets.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Ham.</i>&mdash;Cut four ounces of ham in small dice, and set it on the
+fire in a frying-pan with about two ounces of butter; stir, and while
+the ham is frying, beat six eggs and turn them over the ham in the pan
+when the latter is fried; stir with a fork, to cook the eggs as quickly
+as possible; turn the part of the omelet nearest to you over the other
+part by means of a fork, and serve like an omelet <i>au naturel</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Boiled Ham.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above in every particular, except
+that you mix the ham with the eggs after the latter are beaten; put the
+mixture in the frying-pan, and finish as the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Salt Pork (called omelet au Lard).</i>&mdash;Beat half a dozen eggs with a
+fork. Cut four ounces of salt pork in dice, set it on the fire in a
+frying-pan, and when nearly fried turn the eggs in; stir, and finish as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[369]</a></span>
+other omelets. Lean or fat salt pork (according to taste) may be used,
+or both. If it is all lean, use some butter, otherwise it will burn.</p>
+
+<p><i>Souffl&eacute;e.</i>&mdash;Put in a bowl four ounces of pulverized sugar with four
+yolks of eggs; then with a wooden spoon mix well and stir for two
+minutes; add a few drops of essence to flavor. Beat the whites of four
+eggs to a stiff froth in another bowl, and when you see that they are
+beaten enough, turn two tablespoonfuls of the yolks and sugar into them,
+and while still beating, but not as fast; then turn the rest of the
+yolks and sugar into the whites, and mix gently with a wooden spoon.
+Butter a tin or silver dish, turn the mixture into it, smooth or scallop
+with the back of a knife, dust with sugar, and bake in an oven at about
+310&deg;. It takes about twelve minutes to bake.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Mix well six yolks of eggs with four ounces of sugar; beat
+the six whites to a stiff froth and mix them with the rest, add some
+lemon-rind chopped very fine or grated. Put four ounces of butter in a
+crockery dish, set on a moderate fire, and when the butter is melted
+pour the eggs in; stir with a fork, and as soon as you see some of the
+mixture becoming hard, place the dish in a hot oven for about five
+minutes; take off, dust with sugar, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mac&eacute;doine, or &agrave; la Washington.</i>&mdash;Make four omelets of four eggs each,
+one with apples, one with asparagus or sorrel (according to the season),
+a third with <i>fines herbes</i>, and the fourth <i>au naturel</i>; you serve them
+on the same dish, one lapping over the other. It makes a fine as well as
+a good dish.</p>
+
+<p>This omelet, or rather these omelets, were a favorite dish with the
+Father of his Country; they were very often served on his table when he
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[370]</a></span>
+had a grand dinner. It is also served with the four following omelets:
+<i>au naturel</i>, with salt pork, <i>fines herbes</i>, and with cheese.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Oysters.</i>&mdash;Blanch a dozen oysters, drain, and beat with the eggs,
+and then proceed as directed.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Tunny, or any kind of smoked or salt Fish.</i>&mdash;Beat the eggs as
+directed, using little or no salt; then chop the fish fine, mix and beat
+it with the eggs, and cook as directed. It requires a little more butter
+than if there were no fish. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added when
+dished.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sweetmeats.</i>&mdash;Make an omelet <i>au naturel</i>, and when ready to be
+folded in the pan, place on the middle of it two or three tablespoonfuls
+of any kind of sweetmeats, then fold and serve.</p>
+
+<p>Omelets are served as <i>entremets</i> after the vegetables, and at
+breakfast. All but four are served as <i>entremets</i>, and all are served at
+breakfast; the four excepted are: with bacon, ham, salt pork, and
+kidneys. By using different kinds of sweetmeats, an infinite number of
+omelets can be made, and, except the <i>souffl&eacute;e</i>, they are all made
+alike.</p>
+
+<p><i>Macaroni.</i>&mdash;This excellent article of food is now as well known here as
+in Europe. The harder the wheat the better the macaroni. The
+manufacturers of this country use Michigan flour in preference to any
+other.</p>
+
+<p><i>To blanch.</i>&mdash;Put about three pints of cold water and a little salt on
+the fire, and at the first boiling drop half a pound of macaroni into
+it; boil gently till tender but not soft. It takes about twenty minutes
+to boil it, according to quality. A little butter, about two ounces, may
+be added in boiling. As soon as tender, turn it into a colander, and it
+is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Gratin.</i>&mdash;Blanch the macaroni, and when drained put it on a tin or
+silver dish, and mix with it a <i>B&eacute;chamel</i> sauce; add salt, pepper, two
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[371]</a></span>
+or three ounces of butter, a little nutmeg grated, about four ounces of
+grated cheese, either pine-apple, <i>Gruy&egrave;re</i>, or Parmesan; dust with
+bread-crumbs, put about eight pieces of butter the size of a hazel-nut
+here and there on the top, set in a warm but not quick oven till the top
+turns rather brown, and serve warm as it is, that is, in the dish in
+which it is. If in a tin dish, put it inside of another dish, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>A l'Italienne.</i>&mdash;Blanch half a pound of macaroni and drain it. Put it
+in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, and mix well by stirring the
+butter in the warm macaroni. Then add also three or four tablespoonfuls
+of gravy; mix again half a pint of tomato-sauce and grated cheese, as
+for <i>au gratin</i>; set on the fire, stir, add salt to taste; keep on the
+fire for about ten minutes, stirring now and then, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Napolitaine.</i>&mdash;This is the most expensive way of preparing macaroni.
+Wealthy Italians have it prepared with beef &agrave; la mode gravy only, or
+gravy made especially for it, with good lean beef cut in dice, and using
+as many as twelve pounds of meat to make gravy for one pound of
+macaroni, the meat being prepared as boiled beef afterward, but it can
+be prepared with ordinary gravy.</p>
+
+<p>Blanch four ounces of macaroni and drain as directed, then put it in a
+saucepan with two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, a little grated
+nutmeg, and set on the fire; stir till the butter is melted, and then
+add grated cheese as directed for <i>au gratin</i>, and half a pint of gravy;
+stir and mix for about ten minutes, and serve. Macaroni requires much
+butter; the quantity of cheese is according to taste; some put weight
+for weight of macaroni, butter, and cheese. It is also prepared in a
+mould (<i>en timbale</i>) for <i>chartreuse</i>; it is macaroni <i>Napolitaine</i>,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[372]</a></span>
+when every thing is mixed with it; instead of leaving it ten minutes on
+the fire, put it in the mould, set in the oven for about fifteen
+minutes, turn over a dish, and serve warm. In using much cheese, the
+macaroni will preserve the form of the mould when served.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Croquettes.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for rice <i>croquettes</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rice&mdash;to boil.</i>&mdash;Wash half a pound of rice in water and drain it; put
+it in a saucepan with one quart of broth taken from the top of the
+broth-kettle, and before having skimmed off the fat; set on the fire,
+boil gently for about fifteen minutes, or till rather underdone, and put
+on a very slow fire to finish the cooking. Water and butter may be used
+instead of broth. If the broth is absorbed or boiled away before the
+rice is cooked, add a little more to keep it moist; add salt, pepper,
+and nutmeg to taste, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When boiled, place it in a slow oven to dry it, and then
+pour over it, little by little, stirring the while, four ounces of
+melted butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Wash half a pound of rice in cold water and drain it. Put it
+in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water, salt, and the juice of two
+lemons; boil six minutes, and drain; put it in a saucepan then with
+about six ounces of melted butter; mix, cover the pan well, and put it
+in a slow oven for about half an hour; take off and use.</p>
+
+<p>Rice may be boiled in several different ways, or rather with several
+ingredients. To the above ways, in India or other southern countries,
+they add, besides salt and nutmeg, a teaspoonful of curry-powder to a
+pound of rice. In Italy they add slices of ham, sausage, saffron, and
+even Parmesan cheese. When cooked, chopped truffles may be added at the
+same time with the butter. Oil is sometimes used instead of butter.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[373]</a></span>
+<p><i>In Border.</i>&mdash;When thus prepared, take it with a spoon and place it all
+around the dish, leaving room in the middle to serve a bird, and then
+serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way.</i>&mdash;When prepared as above, put the rice in a mould for
+border; the rice must be rather dry and the mould well buttered. Press
+on it so as to fill the mould well, then put it in an oven at about 350
+deg. Fahr. for ten or twelve minutes. Take off, place a dish on the
+mould, turn it upside down, and remove the mould. The inside of a mould,
+for border, is plain, but the outside and bottom are scalloped; the
+bottom makes the top of the rice when served. There is an empty place in
+the centre to hold a bird.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cake.</i>&mdash;Butter a mould well and then dust it with sugar. Prepare rice
+as directed for <i>croquettes</i>, and instead of spreading it on a dish to
+cool, fill the mould about two-thirds full with it, and bake in a warm
+but not quick oven for about half an hour. Serve on a dish. The mould
+may be prepared with sugar only in this way: put pulverized sugar into
+the mould, set it on a rather slow fire, and when turning rather brown
+turn the mould round and round, so as to have it lined all over with
+sugar; bake as above, turn over a dish, remove the mould, and serve hot
+or cold, with or without a sauce for puddings.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Croquettes.</i>&mdash;Wash four ounces of rice in cold water and set it on
+the fire with a pint of milk and the rind of half a lemon; when done or
+nearly so, the milk may be boiled away or absorbed by the rice; add a
+little more to keep the rice nearly covered with it. When done, take off
+and mix with it two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two ounces of butter, two
+tablespoonfuls of milk, three yolks of eggs, a little pinch of salt, and
+the same of nutmeg&mdash;the latter, if liked. Put back on the fire for one
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[374]</a></span>
+minute, stirring the while. Spread the mixture on a dish and let cool.
+If the <i>croquettes</i> are for <i>breakfast</i>, the above may be done the
+evening previous. When cold, stir the mixture, so as to mix the upper
+part with the rest that is less dry. Put it in parts on the paste-board,
+about a tablespoonful for each part. Have bread-crumbs on it, roll each
+part of the shape you wish, either round, like a small sausage, or flat,
+or of a chop-shape. Then dip each <i>croquette</i> in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs again, and fry in hot fat. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>.)</p>
+
+<p>To shape them, roll each part round at first, and with a few
+bread-crumbs; then with a knife you smooth both ends, while you roll
+them round with the left hand; the two must be done at the same time.
+When fried and in the colander, dust with sugar, and serve as warm as
+possible. <i>Croquettes</i> are generally served in pyramid. A napkin may be
+spread on the platter, and the <i>croquettes</i> served on it.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Fritters.</i>&mdash;When a rice-cake is cold, it may be cut in pieces,
+dipped in batter for fritters, fried (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>), dusted with sugar,
+and served hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Souffl&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Prepare rice as directed for <i>croquettes</i>, and when ready to
+be spread on a dish, add a few drops of essence to flavor; have five
+whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and mix them gently with it;
+butter a mould well, fill it two-thirds full with the mixture, dust with
+sugar and set in a warm but not quick oven, and serve as soon as brown
+and raised. It takes from fifteen to twenty minutes. If the oven is
+warmer under the cake than on the top, it would be necessary to place
+something under the mould, the cake rises better and is lighter. This
+cake, like every <i>souffl&eacute;</i>, must be served promptly and before it falls.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Fruit.</i>&mdash;This dish is excellent, sightly, easily made, and can be
+varied infinitely. The rice is prepared as for <i>croquettes</i>, and is
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_375" id="Page_375">[375]</a></span>
+used when ready to be spread over a dish to cool. The fruit, if it be
+<i>apples</i>, <i>pears</i>, <i>plums</i>, etc., is stewed. One or several kinds may be
+used for the same dish. It is served warm or cold, according to taste.
+Place a layer of stewed fruit on a dish and then a layer of rice over
+it; another layer of the same or of another stewed fruit, and over it a
+layer of rice. Place as many layers as you fancy, imitating a pyramid,
+and you have a fine dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rice-water.</i>&mdash;This being often prescribed by doctors against
+diarrhroea, we will give the receipt for it. See that the rice is clean,
+but do not wash it. Put one pint of rice in a pan with a quart of cold
+water, and boil gently till the rice is quite soft or a little overdone;
+if the water boils away, fill up with cold water so as to have the rice
+always covered by it. When done, mash it through a colander, put back on
+the fire, add water to make it thin or thick, according to prescription;
+as soon as warm, sweeten to taste with sugar or honey, and take cold or
+warm, also according to prescription.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nouilles.</i>&mdash;Put four tablespoonfuls of flour on the paste-board; make a
+hole in the middle, and break two eggs in it, add a pinch of salt, and
+knead well; then roll down to a thickness of one-twelfth of an inch;
+dust it slightly with flour; cut it in strips about an inch wide; then
+cut these strips across, so as to make fillets one inch long and
+one-eighth of an inch broad. Spread the strips on a sieve for half an
+hour, to dry them a little. Put cold water and a pinch of salt in a
+saucepan, and set it on the fire; at the first boiling throw the
+<i>nouilles</i> in, boil two minutes, stirring occasionally; drain, throw
+them in cold water and it is ready for use. It may be kept in cold water
+half a day. <i>Nouilles</i> are used to make soup, and are prepared in the
+same and every way like macaroni.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[376]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="SWEET_DISHES" id="SWEET_DISHES"></a>SWEET DISHES.</h2>
+
+
+<p>These are served both as <i>entremets</i> and <i>dessert</i>. Many are <i>entremets</i>
+at a grand dinner, and <i>dessert</i> at a family dinner. As the name
+indicates, sugar is one of the most important of the compounds used to
+prepare them. It is used in syrup, the making of which is generally more
+difficult than the rest of the operation.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>father of cooks</i>, the great <span class="smcap">Careme</span>, divides syrup, or the "cooking
+of sugar," as he calls it, and as every practitioner has called it
+since, into six degrees; each one corresponding to the six different
+states into which the sugar passes, while on the fire, from the time it
+begins to boil to that when it begins to turn <i>caramel</i> or burned.</p>
+
+<p>A copper pan is the best and handiest of all; it can be done in another,
+but it is more difficult; the sugar turns brown before being thoroughly
+cooked or reduced. Always use good loaf sugar. If it be necessary to
+clarify it, do it in the following way: for five pounds of sugar, put
+the white of an egg in a bowl with half a pint of water, and beat well
+with an egg-beater; then turn into it nearly three pints of water, stir,
+put away half a pint of it to be used afterward. Then add to the rest
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[377]</a></span>
+five pounds of sugar, in lumps, set on a rather slow fire, and as soon
+as it comes to a boil, mix with it the half pint put away, little by
+little, skimming off carefully the while, and when no more scum gathers
+on the surface, strain through a towel and commence the working. If the
+sugar does not require to be clarified, that is, when it is good white
+sugar, set five pounds of it on the fire, in a copper pan, with nearly
+two quarts of water, and skim off carefully as soon as the scum gathers.
+It may be stirred a little to cause the sugar to melt evenly, but as
+soon as it commences to boil, stop stirring, else it will turn white and
+stringy. It passes from one state or degree to another in a very short
+time, and must be watched closely. It is at the <i>first</i> degree when, by
+dipping a piece of wood into it so as to retain a drop of it at the end,
+and which you touch with another piece of wood&mdash;if, by pulling them
+apart, slowly and immediately, instead of separating it at once, it
+forms a thread, but that soon breaks. It marks then 34 at the
+hydrometer. It is at the <i>second</i> degree when, by repeating the same
+process, the kind of thread formed does not break as easily as the
+first. It marks then 36. It is at the <i>third</i> degree when, by dipping a
+skimmer in it, holding it horizontally and striking it on the pan, then
+blowing on it, it forms small bubbles. It marks 39 at the hydrometer. It
+is at the <i>fourth</i> degree by trying again with the skimmer after a short
+time, and when, instead of forming bubbles, it will fly away like
+threads. It marks then 41. The <i>fifth</i> degree is when, by dipping a
+piece of wood in the sugar and quickly dipping it also in a bowl of cold
+water, shaking it at the same time and then biting it; if it breaks
+easily between the teeth, but at the same time is sticky, it has
+attained the fifth degree, and marks 44. A few boilings more and it is
+at the <i>sixth</i> degree, and by trying in the same way as the preceding
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[378]</a></span>
+one, it will break under the teeth, but will not stick to them. Above 44
+the mark is uncertain, the syrup being too thick; it passes from that
+state to that of <i>caramel</i>; is colored, and would burn immediately. When
+that happens, make burnt sugar with it according to direction.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apples au Beurre.</i>&mdash;Peel and core the apples with a fruit-corer. Cut
+slices of stale bread about one-quarter of an inch in thickness, and
+then cut them again of a round shape with a paste-cutter and of the size
+of the apples. Spread some butter on each slice and place an apple on
+each also. Butter a bakepan, place the apples and bread in, fill the
+hole made in the middle of the apple to core it with sugar; place on the
+top of the sugar and on each a piece of butter the size of a hazel-nut,
+and set in a warm, but not quick oven. When about half done, fill the
+hole again with sugar and a pinch of cinnamon, place butter on top as
+before, and finish the cooking, serve warm. When done, they may be
+glazed with apple-jelly and put back in the oven for two minutes; the
+dish is more sightly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Flambantes.</i>&mdash;Lay apples in a saucepan, after being peeled and cored,
+add sugar to taste, and water enough just to cover them, also a stick of
+cinnamon, and set on a rather slow fire, and leave till done. Take them
+from the pan carefully and without breaking them; place them on a tin or
+silver dish, forming a kind of pyramid or mound; turn the juice over
+them, dust with sugar, pour good rum all over, set it on fire, and serve
+immediately and warm. As soon as on fire it is placed on the table, and
+the host must baste with the rum so as to keep it burning till all the
+alcohol is exhausted, then serve.</p>
+
+<p>The following cut represents either a dish of apples <i>flambantes</i> before
+being in flames, or apples with rice.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[379]</a></span>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0379.jpg" width="418" height="167" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>In Fritters.</i>&mdash;Peel, core, and cut apples in slices, and then proceed
+as directed for fritters. Serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Wine.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for apples <i>flambantes</i> in every particular
+except that you slice the apples, and instead of pouring rum over, you
+pour Madeira wine, and do not set it on fire.</p>
+
+<p><i>Meringu&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;Peel, quarter, and core half a dozen apples; set them on
+the fire in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir
+occasionally till done, then mix with them two or three tablespoonfuls
+of sugar, and when cold put them on a tin or silver dish; arrange them
+as a mound on the middle of the dish. Beat three whites of eggs to a
+stiff froth, and mix three ounces of pulverized sugar with them; spread
+two thirds of that mixture all over and around the apples, smooth it
+with a knife; then put the other third in a paper funnel, and by
+squeezing it out, decorate the dish according to fancy. You may squeeze
+some small heaps of the mixture here and there, over and around the
+dish, or squeeze it out all around, giving it a rope-like shape. Dust
+with sugar, and put in an oven at 250 degrees for twenty to twenty-five
+minutes. Serve warm in the dish in which it has been baked.</p>
+
+<p><i>Charlotte.</i>&mdash;Peel, quarter, and core six apples; put them in a pan with
+two tablespoonfuls of water, cinnamon, and stew till done, when add
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[380]</a></span>
+three or four ounces of sugar, mix gently so as not to mash the apples,
+let cool. Butter a mould well, line it, bottom and sides, with strips of
+stale bread, about one quarter of an inch thick, one inch broad, and of
+a proper length for the mould. Fill till about half full with some of
+the apples, then put a rather thin layer of any kind of sweetmeat on the
+apples; finish the filling up with apples; cover with pieces of stale
+bread, bake in an oven at about 340 degrees for about twenty minutes,
+turn over on a dish, remove the mould, and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sweetmeats.</i>&mdash;Prepare apples <i>au beurre</i>, and when ready to be
+served, fill the hole with any kind of sweetmeats or with currant-jelly.
+Serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>In Pine-Apple.</i>&mdash;Core the apples with a fruit-corer and then peel them
+with the scalloped knife (the peels are used to make syrup or jelly),
+place them tastefully on a dish, so that they will form a pyramid,
+filling the place where the core was with sugar and a little cinnamon;
+then pour a little apple-syrup on the whole, and bake. When done, pour a
+little more syrup over, and serve cold or warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apple-Syrup.</i>&mdash;Peel, quarter, and core four or six apples, of the
+pippin variety; cook them well in about a pint of water, a wine-glass of
+brandy, and a pinch of grated cinnamon; when well cooked, put them in a
+coarse towel, and press the juice out; put it in a stewpan and set it on
+a good fire; add a pound of loaf-sugar, take the foam off with a skimmer
+a little before it boils, and boil about five minutes; take from the
+fire, let cool, bottle it, corking well. It may be kept for months.
+Syrup with pears, pine-apple, etc., is made in the same way.</p>
+
+<p><i>Blanc-Mange.</i>&mdash;Set on the fire in a block-tin saucepan one quart of
+milk with the rind of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of sugar; stir
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[381]</a></span>
+occasionally to melt the sugar. Then mix about six ounces of
+corn-starch with half a pint of milk in a bowl. As soon as the milk
+rises, take it from the fire; take off with a skimmer the rind of lemon,
+and the skin that has formed on the top of the milk; put the milk back
+on the fire; turn the corn-starch into it, stir continually and very
+fast till it is very thick. It will take hardly a minute to get thick.
+Turn into a mould wetted with cold water and put away to cool. When
+perfectly cold, serve with the following sauce: Mix well in a tin
+saucepan two ounces of sugar and two yolks of eggs, then add half a pint
+of milk and mix again; set on the fire; stir continually, give one boil;
+take off; let cool, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Blanc-Manger.</i>&mdash;Throw in boiling water two ounces of sweet almonds and
+the same of bitter ones, or pour boiling water over them, and then skin
+them as soon as the skin comes off easily. Pound them well with four
+ounces of sugar, lay the whole in a pan with about a pint of water, set
+on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, take off and strain. Put
+in a tin saucepan about a pint of milk, the strained juice, an ounce of
+gelatin, a little rind of lemon, and a little nutmeg, both grated; set
+the whole on a moderate fire; simmer just enough to melt the gelatin and
+mix it with the rest, and then strain. Wet a mould with cold water, put
+the mixture in it, set it on ice, and serve when cool. It may be served
+with a sauce like the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Charlotte Russe.</i>&mdash;Wipe a mould well, see that it is dry, and then line
+the bottom and sides with lady's-fingers, or sponge cake cut in pieces
+about the size of a lady's-finger. Commence by lining the bottom,
+placing the pieces so as to form a star or rosette, or plain, according
+to fancy. Then place some of them upright all around, rather tight, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[382]</a></span>
+even with the top of the mould. Fill with cream, well whipped,
+sweetened, and flavored with essence; place the mould on ice, and when
+ready to serve, place a dish on it, turn upside down, remove the mould,
+and serve as it is, or decorated.</p>
+
+<p><i>To decorate.</i>&mdash;Make a paper funnel, fill it with cream, or icing (sugar
+and white of egg worked), then spread some all over the top according to
+fancy; it is quickly done and is sightly. The mould may also be filled
+with some other cream; as <i>cr&egrave;me l&eacute;g&egrave;re</i>, <i>cr&egrave;me cuite</i>, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Charlotte &agrave; la Chantilly.</i>&mdash;It is a <i>Charlotte</i> made exactly as the
+above one, but filled with <i>cr&egrave;me &agrave; la Chantilly</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>A la Polonaise.</i>&mdash;Make a sponge cake, cut it transversely, dip each
+piece in cream (any kind) and then place them back where they were so as
+to give the cake its original form as near as possible. When thus
+re-formed, cover it with cream, dust with sugar, and decorate with any
+kind of sweetmeats. Besides the sweetmeats that are placed here and
+there all around, some currant-jelly may also be used to decorate. Place
+on ice for some time, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Italian.</i>&mdash;Peel, quarter, and core about a quart of pears and set them
+on a rather slow fire, in a saucepan with half a pint of white wine,
+sugar, cinnamon, and lemon-rind. While they are cooking, line a mould as
+for <i>Charlotte Russe</i>, remove the lemon-rind, and fill the mould with
+the pears; place it on ice when cool, turn over on a dish, remove the
+mould, decorate with icing, or cover entirely with apple-jelly, and
+serve. It is also made with <i>g&eacute;noise</i> cake instead of sponge cake.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fran&ccedil;aise.</i>&mdash;This is prepared and served like a <i>Charlotte Russe</i>, with
+the exception that it is filled with <i>blanc manger</i> or <i>fromage &agrave; la
+cr&egrave;me</i> instead of cream.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_383" id="Page_383">[383]</a></span>
+<p><i>Of Fruit.</i>&mdash;This is made of cherries or any kind of berries; cherries
+must be stoned carefully. Dip the fruit in wine-jelly as soon as the
+latter is cool, but not firm, and line a mould with it. By having the
+mould on ice it will be more easily done. Fill the mould with cream, as
+for <i>Charlotte Russe</i>, place on ice, and serve as soon as congealed.
+When the mould is taken from the ice, dip it in warm water a few
+seconds, place a dish over it, turn upside down, remove it, and serve
+immediately. A <i>Charlotte</i> of fruit is sightly enough without
+decorations; it requires some time to make it, but it is worth the
+trouble, being a handsome as well as a good dish.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Line a mould as for the above. Put one ounce of gelatin in a
+bowl with about three tablespoonfuls of water and leave it so for about
+half an hour. Mix well together in a saucepan four yolks of eggs and
+three ounces of pulverized sugar, add about three tablespoonfuls of
+milk, and mix again; set on the fire and stir for about three minutes,
+add the gelatin, stir again, give one boil, and put away to cool a
+little. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, turn the above
+mixture into them, mix gently again; fill the mould with the whole,
+place on ice till perfectly cold. When cold, turn upside down on a dish,
+remove the mould, decorate as the preceding one, and serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cheese with Cream&mdash;(Fromage &agrave; la Cr&egrave;me</i>).&mdash;This is made in different
+ways; sometimes with soft curds only, or with curds and cream, or with
+cream only when very thick. Gelatin dissolved in a little water may also
+be added. The curds or cream, or both, are beaten with an egg-beater,
+sweetened to taste with sugar, and flavored with essence. To make it
+more sightly, when beaten and flavored, it is moulded, placed on ice to
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[384]</a></span>
+make it firm, and then turned over a dish, the mould removed, and then
+served. Any kind of essence may be used to flavor it, such as vanilla,
+<i>fleur d'oranger</i>, rose-water, violet, etc.; it may also be made with
+coffee, tea, chocolate, orange, lemon, etc. Put a few drops of very
+strong coffee, or tea, or chocolate at the same time with the sugar and
+essence.</p>
+
+<p>With orange or lemon, rub them on a piece of sugar, which you pound and
+use to sweeten the cheese. Three or more different ones may be made with
+a quart of curds; for instance, flavor one third of it with essence,
+another third with coffee or chocolate, and the other with orange. The
+colors will be different also. It is an excellent and refreshing
+<i>entremets</i> in summer-time. Cheese may also be flavored with pine-apple
+cut in very small dice and mixed with it instead of essence.</p>
+
+<p><i>Compotes, or Jams.&mdash;How to make syrup for Compotes.&mdash;Common
+Syrup.</i>&mdash;Put a pound of loaf-sugar in a crockery stewpan, with a pint of
+water, a wine-glass of brandy, and a pinch of well-grated cinnamon; set
+it on a slow fire, boil gently for ten minutes, skimming off the foam;
+then take from the fire and let cool; bottle it; cork it well and keep
+it to use when wanted. It may be kept for months in a cool and dry
+place.</p>
+
+<p>Stewed fruit of any kind is called either <i>compote</i> or jam. They are
+first peeled and cored and then cooked with sugar, water, and sometimes
+cinnamon, or cloves, both in powder and according to taste; also
+lemon-juice or rind to taste. Cinnamon agrees well with any kind of
+apples, but is not liked by every one in every kind of fruit. The fruits
+may be cooked and served whole, in halves, or quarters, or mashed,
+according to fancy and taste. The proportions of water and sugar are
+also according to taste, or according to the nature or state of the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[385]</a></span>
+fruit. Sour apples require more sugar than sweet ones, unripe berries
+require more also than ripe ones. The preparation is very simple; not
+being prepared to keep, they are served as soon as cold. They may be
+served warm, but they are certainly not as good. When there is not syrup
+(juice) enough, pour some of the above over the fruit, or some
+apple-syrup. The peels and cores of the apples may be used to make
+syrup, together with those of pears.</p>
+
+<p>While peeling, coring, or cutting fruit, drop each in cold water, else
+it changes color and is unsightly.</p>
+
+<p>When cold, the <i>compote</i> may be put in a mould; turn over a dish, remove
+the mould, and serve. Several kinds may be served on the same dish as
+well as one; being of different colors, the dish is more sightly, and
+quite as good. Loaf-sugar is the best.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of cooking them with water, etc., as directed above, put some
+syrup on the fire, and as soon as it boils, drop the prepared fruit in
+it, and boil slowly till done.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Apples.</i>&mdash;Quarter, peel, core, and put apples in a stewpan with a
+gill of water for two quarts, sugar and cinnamon to taste; when done,
+dish them, pour the juice in the stewpan all over, and serve cold. If
+there is not juice enough, add some apple-syrup.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Apricots or Peaches.</i>&mdash;Take two quarts of apricots or peaches and
+cut them in two, remove the stones. Throw them in boiling water for two
+minutes and take off; drop in cold water and take out immediately, then
+skin them. Put about half a pint of water in a crockery pan or in a
+well-lined one, and at the first boil put the peaches in, with sugar to
+taste; boil gently till done, turn the whole over a dish, and serve
+cold. If there is not juice or syrup enough, add a little common syrup.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[386]</a></span>
+<p><i>Of Blackberries, Currants, Raspberries, Strawberries, and other like
+Berries.</i>&mdash;Prepare syrup of sugar, and when at the second, third, or
+fourth state, throw the berries in; boil from one to five minutes,
+according to the kind, take from the fire, and serve when cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Cherries.</i>&mdash;Cut off the stalks of the cherries about half their
+length, wash well and drain them. Put them in a stewpan in which there
+is just enough syrup at the first degree to cover them; boil slowly till
+cooked, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Oranges.</i>&mdash;Peel four oranges, and divide each carpel without
+breaking it, and then throw them in syrup of sugar at the fourth or
+fifth degree, and boil slowly three or four minutes; take from the fire,
+let cool, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Pears.</i>&mdash;Peel the pears, cut the stem half its length, put them in a
+stewpan with a little sugar, a few drops of lemon-juice, a pinch of
+cinnamon, and a little water. Set on a moderate fire, and at the first
+boiling add two gills of claret wine. Simmer till cooked, then put the
+pears only on a dish; set the stewpan back on the fire, add to the juice
+in it about the same quantity of syrup of pears or of syrup of sugar at
+the third degree, boil fifteen minutes longer, pour the whole on the
+pears, and serve warm or cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Lemons.</i>&mdash;Peel the lemons, cut them in pieces, remove the seeds, and
+proceed as for that of oranges, boiling a little longer.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Pine-Apple.</i>&mdash;Peel and cut in slices, put them in a crockery pan,
+with a little water and sugar, set on a good fire, and finish and serve
+like apricots.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Plums.</i>&mdash;Throw the plums in boiling water, and take them out when
+half cooked; put them in a crockery stewpan, with a little water and a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[387]</a></span>
+little sugar; simmer till cooked, place them on a dish, pour some
+common syrup on, and serve when cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Quinces.</i>&mdash;Quarter, peel, and core the quinces; throw them in
+boiling water for five minutes; take out and drain them; put them in a
+crockery stewpan, with four ounces of sugar for every pound of quinces,
+a few drops of lemon-juice, a little water, and a pinch of grated
+cinnamon; set it on the fire, simmer till cooked, place them on a dish,
+pour some common syrup on them, and serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Chestnuts.</i>&mdash;Roast about one quart of chestnuts, remove the skin and
+pith, lay them in a pan with half a gill of water and four ounces of
+sugar; set on a slow fire, toss now and then till the sugar and water
+are absorbed or evaporated, turn over a dish, dust with sugar, and serve
+warm or cold. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added just before
+dusting with sugar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold Compote.</i>&mdash;Wash strawberries and raspberries in cold water, drain
+dry, and place them on a dish. Pour boiling common syrup or boiling
+currant-jelly all over; let cool, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Cranberries.</i>&mdash;Put one pint of water in a tin saucepan, with six
+ounces of loaf-sugar, the rind of half a lemon, and set it on the fire;
+boil down until, by dipping a spoon in it, it adheres to it. Then throw
+in it about one pint of cranberries; boil about twelve minutes, stirring
+now and then, take off, let cool, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;After having boiled ten minutes in the same way as above,
+and with the same proportions of sugar, cranberries, etc., take from the
+fire, mash through a fine colander or sieve, put back on the fire, boil
+gently five minutes, let cool, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Creams or Cr&egrave;mes au Citron</i> (<i>with Lemon</i>).&mdash;Put one pint of milk in a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[388]</a></span>
+tin saucepan with the rind of a lemon; set on the fire, and as soon as
+it rises place an iron spoon in it and boil gently five minutes; take
+from the fire. Mix well in a bowl four ounces of sugar with four yolks
+of eggs, then turn the milk into the bowl, little by little, stirring
+and mixing at the same time. Strain the mixture and put it in small
+cups; put the cups in a pan of boiling water, boil gently for about ten
+minutes, and put in the oven as it is, that is, leaving the cups in the
+water. The cups must not be more than half covered with water, else the
+water will fly into it. It takes from ten to fifteen minutes to finish
+the cooking in the oven, according to the size of the cups. Take them
+from the oven when the <i>cr&egrave;me</i> is rather firm, except a little spot in
+the middle, and which you ascertain by moving the cups.</p>
+
+<p>Anyone with an ordinary amount of intelligence can make creams as well
+as the best cooks, after having tried only two or three times. When you
+know how to make one, you can make fifty, just by using different
+flavorings.</p>
+
+<p><i>Au Caf&eacute; (with Coffee</i>).&mdash;The stronger the coffee the better the cream.
+The most economical way of making strong coffee is: when you intend to
+have cream with coffee for dinner, put the first drops that fall, when
+you make the coffee for breakfast, into a glass; put it immediately in
+cold water, and as soon as cool cover it with paper, which you tie
+around it with twine, and use when you make the cream.</p>
+
+<p>Always use good fresh milk and fresh eggs. As soon as the whites of the
+eggs are separated from the yolks, put them, together with the shells,
+on ice, and use the next day to clarify your jellies, or to make icing,
+etc. A little care is a great saving in the kitchen.</p>
+
+<p>Put one quart of milk in a milk-pan on the fire and take off as soon as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[389]</a></span>
+it rises. While the milk is on the fire, mix well together in a bowl
+eight yolks of eggs with half a pound of sugar, and coffee to flavor;
+then turn the milk into the mixture, little by little, stirring the
+while; when the whole is thoroughly mixed, strain it. Put the mixture in
+cream-cups, place the cups in a pan of boiling water&mdash;enough water to
+half cover them; boil slowly for about ten minutes, put the pan and cups
+in a moderately-heated oven, and take off when done. It takes from ten
+to fifteen minutes to finish the cooking, according to the size of the
+cups. It is done when the whole is solidified except a little spot in
+the centre, which, by moving the cups, will shake somewhat. Serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Burnt Sugar.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of sugar in a small tin pan, with a
+tablespoonful of water, set on the fire, and boil till burnt and of a
+light-brown color; take off, and put it in a stewpan with a pint of
+milk, four ounces of white sugar, a few drops of rose or orange-flower
+water; boil ten minutes, stirring occasionally; take from the fire, beat
+the yolks of two eggs, and one entire, put in the pan and mix the whole
+well, then strain, after which you put the mixture in small cream-pots
+for that purpose; place them in a hot but not boiling <i>bain-marie</i>, and
+as soon as it thickens take them out, dust them with fine white sugar,
+let cool; place them on ice for about fifteen minutes, and then it is
+ready to be served.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Chocolate.</i>&mdash;Put in a stewpan and on a moderate fire six ounces of
+chocolate, three tablespoonfuls of water, three ounces of white sugar,
+stir now and then with a wooden spoon till melted; then pour in it,
+little by little, a quart of good fresh milk; boil ten minutes, take
+from the fire, and mix in it one egg well beaten with the yolks of five
+others; strain through a fine sieve, put in cream-pots or cups, place
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[390]</a></span>
+them in a hot but not boiling <i>bain-marie</i>, take off as soon as it
+thickens, dust with fine white sugar, let cool, place on ice for about
+fifteen minutes, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Orange.</i>&mdash;Use orange-rind, and proceed as for lemon-cream in every
+other particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Tea.</i>&mdash;Proceed with strong tea as for cream <i>au caf&eacute;</i> in every
+other particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Essence.</i>&mdash;Make cream <i>au caf&eacute;</i>, with the exception that, instead
+of using coffee to flavor, you use a few drops of vanilla, rose-water,
+orange-flower water, violet, cinnamon, etc.&mdash;any kind of essence, to
+taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cinnamon.</i>&mdash;Beat well together in a bowl about an ounce of
+potato-starch, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, four eggs, four ounces of
+sugar, and milk enough to make a rather liquid batter. Turn the mixture
+into a mould, which put into a pan of boiling water for fifteen minutes,
+then place in the oven till cooked. Serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cuite.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of sugar in a tin pan with two eggs, and mix
+well; then add an ounce of flour, little by little, mixing the while;
+then, in the same way, add also about a pint of boiled milk; set on the
+fire, stir continually till it turns rather thick; take off, flavor with
+essence to taste, let cool, and serve or use for filling.</p>
+
+<p><i>Frangipane.</i>&mdash;Set one pint of milk on the fire. Mix well together in
+another pan three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of flour, three eggs,
+three macaroons crumbled, and as soon as the milk rises, turn the
+mixture into it, little by little, stirring and mixing the while; keep
+stirring about three minutes; take off, add a few drops of essence to
+flavor; turn into a bowl, let cool, and it is ready for use. It may be
+made without the macaroons.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Almonds.</i>&mdash;Make as the above, with the exception that you use
+sweet almonds, chopped fine, instead of macaroons.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_391" id="Page_391">[391]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Hazel-nuts.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above, using hazel-nuts instead of
+almonds.</p>
+
+<p><i>L&eacute;g&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;Mix well together in a tin saucepan five yolks of eggs and
+five ounces of sugar; add four tablespoonfuls of milk, and mix again.
+Set the pan on the fire, and stir continually till it turns rather
+thick; take off, and add a few drops of essence; turn into a plate or
+dish and let cool. When cold, beat five whites of eggs to a stiff froth;
+have somebody to pour in the whites, and, while you are still beating,
+about two tablespoonfuls of the cold mixture, and stop beating. Then
+turn the rest of the mixture into the whites, and mix the whole together
+gently; do not stir too much, but move round and round with a wooden
+spoon, and it is done. If it is stirred too much, it may become too
+liquid. It makes an excellent and light cream.</p>
+
+<p><i>Patissi&egrave;re.</i>&mdash;Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and then mix
+about one ounce of pulverized sugar with them. Put four yolks of egg in
+a bowl with half a gill of milk, and beat well till thoroughly mixed.
+Put in a saucepan about two ounces of pulverized sugar, with a
+teaspoonful of potato-starch (<i>fecula</i>), and two-thirds of a gill of
+milk, and mix the whole well; then add the eggs and milk, and beat the
+whole well with an egg-beater. Set the pan on a rather slow fire, stir
+continually with a wooden spoon till it turns rather thick, and then
+turn the four whites and sugar into the pan also, little by little,
+stirring the while, and take off when thoroughly mixed. As soon as off
+the fire, add essence to flavor, and about one-quarter of an ounce of
+gelatine, dissolved in tepid water. Serve, or use to fill when cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Renvers&eacute;e.</i>&mdash;Make cream with tea, coffee, or chocolate, and instead of
+turning the mixture into cream pots, turn it into a mould lined with
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[392]</a></span>
+burnt sugar; place the mould in boiling water for about fifteen minutes,
+place it in the oven to finish the cooking, turn over a dish, remove the
+mould, and serve cold. To line the mould, put two or three
+tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar in it; set it on a slow fire, and
+when the sugar is melted and turning brown, move the mould round and
+round to spread the sugar all over; then put the cream in it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sweet Cream.</i>&mdash;We mean here the oily substance which forms a scum on
+milk; also called <i>whipped cream</i>. It is used to make Charlotte Russe,
+to fill <i>meringues</i>, <i>choux</i>, or cream-cakes, etc.</p>
+
+<p>Put a pint of good thick cream in a bowl, and if the weather is warm,
+place the bowl on ice for half an hour, then beat the cream with an
+egg-beater till stiff and thick. If the cream does not become stiff
+after having beaten it fifteen or twenty minutes at the longest, it is
+not good, or it is too warm. Good cream may rise and become stiff in
+five minutes. When beaten, add to it about four ounces of pulverized
+sugar, which you mix gently with it, not stirring too much; add also a
+few drops of essence to flavor. If wanted very stiff, add also, after
+the sugar, half an ounce of gelatin, melted in a little tepid water.
+When beaten and mixed, if not used immediately, it must be put on ice.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chantilly.</i>&mdash;It is the above cream flavored with <i>fleur d'orange</i>
+(orange-flower water), or with essence of violet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ice Cream.</i>&mdash;Made with cream it is richer than with milk. With eggs it
+is better and richer than without, and those that advocate it without
+eggs, either have no palate, or do not know how to use them in making
+it.</p>
+
+<p>The addition of starch, fecula, arrow-root, flour, meal, etc., spoils
+it. The proportions are, to a quart of milk or cream: from four to six
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_393" id="Page_393">[393]</a></span>
+eggs; from eight to fourteen ounces of pulverized sugar; essence, or
+chocolate, or fruit-jelly to flavor and color. Our receipt is for six
+eggs and fourteen ounces of sugar to a quart of milk.</p>
+
+<p>Set the milk on the fire, and when it comes to a boil, mix well half the
+sugar and the essence with six yolks and three whites of eggs; beat the
+three other whites separately to a stiff froth. As soon as the milk
+rises, take it from the fire, put half the sugar in it and stir to melt
+it, then turn the mixture into it also, little by little, beating the
+while with an egg-beater; set on the fire, and take off at the first
+boiling. While on the fire it must be beaten gently, as, if it is
+allowed to boil, the eggs may curdle. As soon as off the fire, mix the
+three whites with the rest, beating with an egg-beater, just enough to
+mix the whole well; put in cold, salt water to cool, and then freeze.</p>
+
+<p>The smaller the ice is broken and mixed with plenty of rock-salt, the
+quicker it freezes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Custard.</i>&mdash;Put four yolks of eggs in a bowl, then sprinkle flour on
+them, little by little, stirring and mixing well the while with a wooden
+spoon, and when the mixture is rather thick, stop sprinkling flour, but
+sprinkle milk, and mix again in the same way till the mixture is liquid;
+add sugar and essence to taste, beat the four whites to a stiff froth,
+mix them gently with the rest; butter a mould well, fill it about
+two-thirds full with the mixture, and set in a warm but not quick oven.
+Serve as soon as out of the oven. If intended to be served cold, omit
+the whites of eggs.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fritters.</i>&mdash;These are made with every kind of fruit, when ripe, peeled
+and stoned, or cored when necessary, and according to the kind. The
+fruit is used whole, such as strawberries and the like; or in slices,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_394" id="Page_394">[394]</a></span>
+such as apples, pears, etc.; or in halves, like peaches, plums, etc. It
+may be used as soon as prepared; or may be soaked a few hours in a
+mixture of sugar, brandy, or rum, and lemon-rind.</p>
+
+<p>Have <i>batter for fritters</i> made in advance, and while you are preparing
+the fruit heat the fat (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>), dip each fruit or each slice in
+batter, drop it in the fat, stir and turn over, and when done, turn into
+a colander, dust well with fine white or pulverized sugar, and serve as
+warm (or rather as hot) as possible. Even the best fritters served cold
+make a very poor dish. Besides fruit, the blossoms of the acacia and
+those of the violet make the most delicate fritters.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Bread or Pain perdu.</i>&mdash;Set one pint of milk on the fire with two
+ounces of sugar, and the rind of half a lemon, stir now and then, and
+when it rises add a few drops of essence to flavor, then take off and
+soak in it slices of bread, cut with a paste-cutter and about half an
+inch thick. When well soaked, drain; dip them in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs, and fry and serve as fritters.</p>
+
+<p><i>Glazed Fruit&mdash;Oranges glazed.</i>&mdash;Oranges or any other fruit glazed, when
+mounted in a pyramid, is called <i>croque en bouche</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Peel the oranges; then divide the carpels and free them from the pith,
+and put them away in a warm place for a few hours; they may be left over
+night. Cut very fine wire in pieces about eight inches long, bend each
+piece at both ends, forming a hook; then run one end or hook through the
+carpel of orange, and hang it on a stick placed on something
+horizontally. In order not to spill any of the juice, hook the orange
+near the edge of that part that was the centre of the orange before
+being divided, and as the other end of the wire forms a hook also, it is
+easy to hang it.</p>
+
+<p>Prepare syrup of sugar, and when at the sixth degree take it from the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_395" id="Page_395">[395]</a></span>
+fire, dip each carpel of orange into it and hang it again, and so on for
+the whole. As soon as dry enough to handle them, which takes hardly half
+a minute, pull off the wire and serve when perfectly cold.</p>
+
+<p>To mount them in pyramid is not difficult, but requires time. When they
+are cold, prepare again the same syrup of sugar as above, and take it
+from the fire. While the sugar is on the fire take a tin mould, a plain
+one, larger at the top than at the bottom, and slightly grease it with
+sweet-oil. A convenient size for a family is, seven inches high, six
+inches broad at the top, and only four inches at the bottom.</p>
+
+<p>Place one carpel of orange, resting on the bottom of the mould, along
+the side and the edge upward; as soon as the sugar is out of the fire,
+dip one of the two ends of another carpel into it, the edge only, and
+immediately place it as the first one, and touching it. The syrup being
+hot and liquid, the two pieces will adhere; do the same with others till
+you have one row around the bottom. Commence a second row as you did the
+first, but this time the first carpel you place must be dipped in sugar,
+in order to adhere to the first row, and all the others must also be
+dipped so as to adhere not only to the first piece placed, but also to
+the first row; and so on for each row till the mould is full, or till
+you have as much as you wish. As soon as cold, place a dish on the
+mould, turn upside down, and remove the mould. You have then a sightly
+dish, but not better than when served only glazed.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another way to make it.</i>&mdash;Grease with oil your marble for pastry, place
+the same mould as above over it but upside down, that is, the broader
+end down; grease the outside also with oil. Then place the rows of
+carpels of oranges all around outside of it, and in the same way as
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_396" id="Page_396">[396]</a></span>
+described above. The <i>croque en bouche</i> is more easily made this last
+way, but it is more difficult to remove the mould. Mould and fruit must
+be turned upside down carefully, after which the mould is pulled off.</p>
+
+<p>If the syrup gets cold, it hardens, and cannot be used; in that state,
+add a little water and put it back on the fire, but it is difficult to
+rewarm it; generally it colors and is unfit. When that happens, make
+burnt sugar with it, or a <i>nougat</i>. It is better and safer to make a
+little of it, just what can be used before it gets cold, and if not
+enough, make some a second and even a third time. While the sugar is
+hot, and while you are dipping the fruit in it, be careful not to touch
+it, as it burns badly. In glazing the fruit first, some syrup falls in
+taking it from the pan to the stick; place your marble board, greased
+with oil, under, so that you can pick it without any trouble and use it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chestnuts, glazed.</i>&mdash;Roast the chestnuts, skin them well, then hook,
+dip, and hook again on the stick as directed for pieces of oranges. A
+pyramid also may be made, and a sightly one it makes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cherries.</i>&mdash;They must be picked with their stems, and by which you tie
+two together with a piece of twine. See that they are clean and dry, and
+have two sticks instead of one, placed parallel, about two inches apart,
+in order to prevent the two cherries from touching, when hung, as they
+would immediately adhere. Proceed for the rest as described for oranges.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pears.</i>&mdash;Small, ripe pears are excellent glazed; peel them, but leave
+the stem on, and then proceed as with cherries in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Strawberries or any other Berries.</i>&mdash;The berries must be picked with
+the stem. Wash them in cold water, drain, dry, or wipe carefully, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_397" id="Page_397">[397]</a></span>
+then proceed as for cherries in every particular. A more delicate dish
+than strawberries or raspberries glazed cannot be made.</p>
+
+<p><i>Grapes.</i>&mdash;When clean, proceed as described for cherries.</p>
+
+<p><i>Plums.</i>&mdash;Take plums, well ripened and with the stems on, and proceed as
+with cherries.</p>
+
+<p><i>Prunes.</i>&mdash;Soak the prunes in tepid water, and when dry, hook them like
+carpels of orange, and finish in the same manner.</p>
+
+<p><i>Currants.</i>&mdash;When clean and dry, tie two clusters together, and proceed
+as for cherries.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pine-Apple.</i>&mdash;Cut pine-apple in dice, and proceed as described for
+carpels of orange.</p>
+
+<p><i>Iced Fruit.</i>&mdash;As a general rule, the more watery the fruit the more
+reduced the syrup of sugar must be. If it is not reduced enough, small
+pieces of ice, formed by the water of the fruit, will be found while
+eating it. The fruit must be ripe. It is done also with preserved fruit.
+It is impossible to tell exactly the degree or state of the fruit and
+syrup without a hydrometer.</p>
+
+<p>The following <i>preparation</i> may be added to the fruit, or to <i>punch</i>, as
+soon as it begins to freeze; it is not indispensable, but gives it more
+body: Put one pound of loaf-sugar in a copper pan with two gills of cold
+water, set on the fire, stir now and then till it comes to a boil, then
+boil till it is at the fifth state or 43&deg;, and take off. Beat four
+whites of eggs to a stiff froth, flavor with essence of vanilla, and
+turn the sugar into the eggs, little by little, but do not stop beating
+until the whole is in. Then move the mixture gently round with a spoon
+for about a minute, and it is ready for use.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Peaches, Apricots, or Plums.</i>&mdash;The following proportions are for
+one pint of juice. Peel and stone the fruit carefully, then mash it
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_398" id="Page_398">[398]</a></span>
+through a sieve into a bowl. Make one pint of syrup of sugar at 32&deg;, and
+when cold turn it into the bowl and mix it with the pint of juice, add
+the juice of a rather large orange and a little of the rind grated, mix
+again, freeze as directed for ice-cream, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Currants, Lemons, Oranges, Pears, Pine-Apples, Strawberries, and
+other Berries.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for peaches in every particular, except that
+you press the juice of the currants and berries through a towel instead
+of mashing them through a sieve, and that you use the syrup at 44&deg; for
+them also; the others are peeled and cored or seeded.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Melons.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for peaches, except that you add to the
+mixture a little <i>kirschwasser</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Preserved Fruit.</i>&mdash;Use the syrup at 30&deg;, and proceed as for
+peaches in every other particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>Iced Coffee.</i>&mdash;Make strong coffee, and when cold mix it with the same
+volume of thick cream, sweeten to taste, freeze, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Iced Chocolate.</i>&mdash;Break in pieces about four ounces of chocolate, and
+set it on a slow fire in a tin pan, with two tablespoonfuls of water;
+when melted take it from the fire, add a gill of warm water, and work it
+with a spoon for five minutes; then mix it with the same volume of syrup
+of sugar at 30&deg;, freeze and serve. The syrup is used when cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Iced Tea</i> is made as iced coffee.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sweet Jellies&mdash;Wine Jelly.</i>&mdash;Soak two ounces of gelatin in a gill of
+cold water for about half an hour. Put in a block-tin saucepan three
+eggs and shells, three ounces of sugar, one quart of cold water; beat a
+little with an egg-beater to break the eggs, and mix the whole together;
+add also a few drops of burnt sugar, same of essence, rum, according to
+taste, from half a gill to half a pint, then the gelatin and water in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_399" id="Page_399">[399]</a></span>
+which it is; set on a good fire, stirring slowly with an egg-beater, and
+stopping once in a while to see if it comes to a boil, when, stop
+stirring, keep boiling very slowly for two or three minutes, and turn
+into the jelly-bag, which you do as soon as clear; the process requires
+from two to three minutes. While it is boiling take a few drops with a
+spoon, and you will easily see when it is clear. Pass it through the bag
+three or four times, turn into a mould, put on ice, and when firm, put a
+dish on it, turn upside down, remove the mould, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Jelly Mac&eacute;doine.</i>&mdash;Make the same jelly as above, and pass it through
+the bag also; put some in a mould, say a thickness of half an inch, have
+the mould on ice; then, as soon as it is firm, place some fruit on that
+layer and according to fancy; and, with a tin ladle, pour more jelly
+into the mould, but carefully and slowly, in order not to upset the
+fruit you have in; continue pouring till you have a thickness of about
+half an inch on the fruit. Repeat this as many times as you please, and
+till the mould is full; vary the fruit at each layer, and especially the
+color of the different kinds. The color of the jelly may also be changed
+at every layer, by mixing in it more burnt sugar, some carmine or
+cochineal, some green spinach, a little in one layer and more in
+another. Any kind of ripe fruit can be used: strawberries, raspberries,
+stoned cherries, grapes, apples cut in fancy shapes; also peaches,
+bananas, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cold Wine-Jelly.</i>&mdash;Put two ounces of gelatin in a bowl with a piece of
+cinnamon and a pint of cold water, and let stand about an hour. Then
+pour over about a quart of boiling water, and let stand about four
+minutes. After that, add two pounds of sugar, the juice of three lemons,
+a pint of sherry wine, and half a gill of brandy. Stir to dissolve the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_400" id="Page_400">[400]</a></span>
+sugar, and turn the mixture into a mould through a strainer; place on
+ice, and serve as the above jellies.</p>
+
+<p><i>Souffl&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;Put in a bowl four tablespoonfuls of potato-starch with
+three yolks of eggs, one ounce of butter, and a few drops of essence to
+flavor. Turn into it, little by little, stirring the while, about three
+gills of milk; set on the fire, stir continually, and take off at the
+first boiling. Stir continually but slowly. As soon as cold, beat three
+yolks of eggs with a tablespoonful of cold water, and mix them with the
+rest. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them also
+gently and slowly. Butter a mould well, fill it about two-thirds full,
+and bake in a warm but not quick oven (about 300&deg; Fahr.). Besides being
+flavored with essence, <i>souffl&eacute;s</i> may be flavored with coffee, lemon,
+orange, etc., according to taste. Generally, <i>souffl&eacute;s</i> are served under
+the name of the object used to flavor them, such as <i>souffl&eacute; au caf&eacute;</i>
+(<i>souffl&eacute;</i> flavored with strong coffee), etc. They are all made in the
+same way as the above one, with the exception that they are flavored
+with strong coffee as above, and used instead of essence, or strong tea,
+chocolate, etc., or with a little jelly of different fruit, or with
+roasted chestnuts well pounded, instead of potato-starch, etc.</p>
+
+<p>A hundred different kinds of <i>souffl&eacute;s</i> can be easily made by following
+the above directions.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apples, fried.</i>&mdash;Peel and cut in small dice, dropping them in cold
+water till the whole is ready. Then fry with a little butter till about
+half cooked, when add a little water and sugar to taste; finish the
+cooking, take from the fire; beat a yolk of egg with a teaspoonful of
+cold water and mix it with the apples; serve warm. Proceed in the same
+way with <i>pears</i>.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_401" id="Page_401">[401]</a></span>
+<p><i>Peaches baked.</i>&mdash;Cut peaches in two, remove the stone, and with a
+paste-cutter cut some slices of bread, and place them in a buttered
+bakepan with half of a peach on each, the skin downward; dust well with
+sugar, put a piece of butter the size of a kidney-bean on each, place in
+a rather slow oven; dish when cooked, turn the juice over, if any; if
+none, a little syrup of pears, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>Do the same with <i>apricots</i>, <i>plums</i>, and slices of <i>pine-apples</i>. The
+slices of pine-apples may be soaked in <i>kirschwasser</i> for twenty-four
+hours before using them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Prunes, stewed.</i>&mdash;Wash them in cold water if necessary. Soak them in
+tepid water for about two hours, and set the whole on the fire; boil
+gently till half done, when add sugar to taste, a gill of claret wine to
+half a pound of prunes, and serve either warm or cold when done. If the
+water boils away too much, add more.</p>
+
+<p><i>Currants, Blackberries, or other Fruit, for Dessert.</i>&mdash;Beat well the
+white of an egg with a little water; dip the fruit in, and roll it
+immediately in some fine-crushed sugar; place it on a dish, and leave it
+thus five or six hours, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>A more sightly and exquisite plate of dessert than a plate of currants
+dressed thus, cannot be had.</p>
+
+<p>Besides all our receipts, any kind of fruit may be served for dessert,
+according to the season; also any kind of cheese; also fruits preserved
+in liquor.</p>
+
+<p><i>Berries with Milk or Cream.</i>&mdash;Nearly every kind of berries, when clean,
+may be served with milk or cream, and sugar to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Liquor.</i>&mdash;They may also be served with brandy, rum,
+<i>kirschwasser</i>, whiskey, etc., and sugar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Marmalades, or Preserves of Fruits&mdash;Of Apricots or Peaches.</i>&mdash;Boil two
+pounds of peaches for a minute, take off and drop them immediately in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_402" id="Page_402">[402]</a></span>
+cold water. Drain and skin immediately, cut in two and remove the stone.
+Crack two-thirds of the stones and throw the kernels in boiling water;
+leave them in till the skin comes off easily; skin them well and cut
+them in small pieces, lengthwise. Lay the peaches in a pan, with about a
+pound and a half of sugar, set on the fire, boil about twenty minutes,
+stirring the while with a wooden spoon; a few minutes before taking from
+the fire, put also the kernels in the pan; then turn in pots or jars as
+soon as off the fire. Cover well when cold, and keep in a dry and cool
+(but not cold) closet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Plums.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Pears and Quinces.</i>&mdash;Quarter, peel, and core the fruit, put it in a
+pan, and proceed for the rest as directed for peaches, except that you
+use sweet almonds instead of kernels.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Blackberries, Cherries, Currants, Raspberries, and other like
+Berries.</i>&mdash;Wash the fruit in cold water, drain, dry, and mash it through
+a sieve placed over a saucepan; when the juice and pulp are in the pan
+add the same weight of loaf-sugar as that of juice, which is easily
+ascertained by weighing the pan first; set on the fire, skim it
+carefully; it takes about half an hour to cook; then put in pots and let
+cool; cut a piece of white paper the size of the inside of the pot, dip
+it in brandy, put it over the fruit, cover the pots, and place them in a
+dry and cool closet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Grapes.</i>&mdash;Select well-ripened grapes and pick the berries. Put them
+in a thick towel, and press the juice out, which you put in a copper or
+brass saucepan, set on a good fire, and boil till about half reduced.
+Skim off the scum, and stir now and then while it is on the fire. Then
+add about half a pound of loaf-sugar to a pound of juice, boil again
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_403" id="Page_403">[403]</a></span>
+fifteen or twenty minutes, take off, put in pots or jars, cover or cork
+well when cold, and put away in a dark and cool closet.</p>
+
+<p><i>Candied or Comfited Fruit.</i>&mdash;The best state of the fruit to be candied
+is just when commencing to ripen or a little before. It must be picked
+in dry weather, and be sound; the least stain is enough to spoil it soon
+after it is preserved.</p>
+
+<p><i>Peaches.</i>&mdash;Make a cut on the side of the fruit and remove the stone
+without bruising it; then skin it carefully and drop it in a pan of cold
+water. When they are all in, set on the fire, boil gently till they
+float. There must be much more water than is necessary to cover them, in
+order to see easily when they come to the surface. Then take them off
+carefully, with a skimmer, and drop them in cold water and drain. When
+drained, put them in a pan, cover them with syrup of sugar after it is
+skimmed and clarified. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Syrup of Sugar</span>.) The syrup must be boiling
+when turned over the fruit. Set on the fire, give one boil only, and
+turn the whole into a bowl, which you cover with paper, and leave thus
+twelve or fifteen hours. After that time, drain, put the syrup on the
+fire, the peaches in the bowl, and at the first boiling of the syrup,
+turn it over the fruit, cover the bowl with paper, and leave about as
+long, that is, twelve or fifteen hours.</p>
+
+<p>Repeat the same process three times more, in all five times. The last
+time the syrup must be at the first state as described for syrup of
+sugar. Inexperienced persons will do well to try at first with a few
+fruits, and go through the whole process, after which it will be
+comparatively easy.</p>
+
+<p>Every one is awkward in doing a thing for the first time, and does not
+do it well, however easy or simple it may be. That is the reason why
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_404" id="Page_404">[404]</a></span>
+societies of farmers make better preserves than other people; they
+teach one another; and besides, no one is allowed to touch the fruit
+before having seen it done several times.</p>
+
+<p>Candied fruit, as well as preserves, get spoiled by fermentation, if not
+cooked enough; by moisture, if kept in a damp place; or by heat, if kept
+in a warm place.</p>
+
+<p>When the last process has been gone through, leave the fruit in the bowl
+about twenty-four hours; then put it in jars, cover air-tight, and put
+away in a dry and cool closet. It may also be drained, dried on a riddle
+in a warm place, and kept in boxes. A wooden riddle or screen is better
+than a metal one. They may also be put in decanters, covered with brandy
+or other liquor, and corked well. When preserved in brandy, it is not
+necessary to remove the stone; they may be covered with half syrup and
+half brandy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Plums.</i>&mdash;Pick them just before commencing to ripen, and cut the stem
+half way. When clean, but neither stoned nor skinned, prick them around
+the stem with a fork, drop them in cold water, set on the fire, add a
+gill of vinegar to three quarts of water, and take from the fire as soon
+as they float. Drain, put them in a bowl, pour boiling syrup of sugar
+over them, and proceed as directed for peaches, that is, cover and pour
+the syrup on them five times in all. They are kept like peaches also,
+either in jars, dried, or in brandy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pears.</i>&mdash;After being peeled and the stem cut off half way, they may be
+preserved whole or in quarters. In peeling them, they must be dropped in
+cold water with a little lemon-juice to keep them white. They are picked
+just before commencing to ripen. When ready, put cold water and the
+juice of a lemon to every two quarts in a deep pan, and drop the pears
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_405" id="Page_405">[405]</a></span>
+in, set on the fire and boil gently till well done; take off, drain and
+drop in cold water, which you change two or three times and without
+stopping; then drain again, place them in a large bowl, and then proceed
+as for peaches. They are kept like peaches also.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apples.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for pears, except that apples are cooked much
+quicker.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pine-Apples.</i>&mdash;Peel, slice, and drop the fruit in cold water; add a
+little sugar, set on the fire and boil gently till done, when drain and
+drop in cold water and drain again. Put them in a bowl, and proceed as
+for peaches for the rest, with the exception that they are kept in jars
+only, and not dried or put in brandy.</p>
+
+<p><i>Chestnuts.</i>&mdash;Skin the chestnuts and put them in cold water on the fire,
+and take off when tender; then remove the under skin or white envelope
+or pith. Place them in a bowl, and proceed as for peaches for the rest.</p>
+
+<p><i>Oranges.</i>&mdash;Drop oranges in boiling water and take off when the rind is
+tender, and when a darning-needle can be run through it easily. Drain
+and drop them in cold water. After two or three hours drain, cut in
+slices, and put them in a bowl; then proceed as for peaches, except that
+they are kept in jars only.</p>
+
+<p><i>Quinces.</i>&mdash;Peel, quarter, and core quinces just before they commence
+ripening, drop in boiling water; drain them when done, and drop them
+immediately in cold water. As soon as cold, take them off, drain and put
+them in a bowl. For the rest, proceed as for peaches, with the exception
+that they are only kept in jars, but neither dried nor put in brandy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">To Preserve in Brandy</span>.&mdash;Besides the dried fruits above described,
+several may be preserved in brandy, without being cooked and soaked in
+syrup of sugar.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_406" id="Page_406">[406]</a></span>
+<p><i>Cherries.</i>&mdash;Pick them when fully ripe, see that they are clean, and put
+them in decanters with cloves, pieces of cinnamon, and entirely covered
+with brandy; cover well, but do not cork, and leave thus two weeks, at
+the end of which, place a colander over a vessel and empty the decanters
+into it; pass the liquor through a jelly-bag, mix it with some syrup of
+sugar at the second degree, turn over the fruit which you cover with it,
+and cork the decanters well when perfectly cold. Keep in a dark, cool,
+and dry place.</p>
+
+<p>Do the same with strawberries and other like fruit.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fruit Jellies&mdash;With Apples or Quinces.</i>&mdash;Peel, core, and cut in small
+pieces two quarts of good apples or quinces, lay them in a stewpan with
+a clove well pounded, and the juice of half a lemon; cover with water,
+set on a moderate fire, and boil slowly till well cooked. Turn into a
+jelly-bag, or a thick towel under which you place a vessel to receive
+the juice, and when it is all out, put it in a stewpan with
+three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of juice; boil to a
+jelly.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as done put it in pots or jars, let cool, cut a piece of white
+paper the size of the inside of the pot, dip it in brandy, put it over
+the jelly, cover the pot well, and place in a dry, cool closet, but not
+too cold. What remains in the bag may be used to make a <i>compote</i>. Watch
+the process carefully, skimmer in hand, to skim off the scum, and stir
+now and then, lest it should burn.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Apricots, Peaches, Plums, etc.</i>&mdash;After having taken the stones
+out, cut them in four pieces, and proceed as for apple-jelly above in
+every other particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Blackberries, Currants, Grapes, Raspberries, or other like
+Berries.</i>&mdash;Put the well-ripened berries in a coarse towel and squeeze
+all the juice out of them, which you put into a stewpan with as many
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_407" id="Page_407">[407]</a></span>
+pounds of loaf-sugar as there are of juice, and finish as directed for
+apple-jelly. A little rum or essence of rose, or any other, according to
+taste, may be added just before taking from the fire.</p>
+
+<p><i>Punch.</i>&mdash;Put a saltspoonful of black tea in a crockery pot, with one
+clove, a little cinnamon, and the rind of a lemon cut in pieces; pour on
+the whole half a pint of boiling water; let it remain thus five minutes,
+and strain. Put a bottle of rum or brandy in a crockery vessel, with
+twelve ounces of loaf-sugar, set the rum or brandy on fire, and let burn
+till it stops. Then mix tea and rum together, and it is ready for use.
+It is drunk cold or warm, according to taste. When wanted warm, if made
+previously, set it on a moderate fire, in a tin or crockery kettle.</p>
+
+<p>It keeps very well if carefully bottled and corked when cold.</p>
+
+<p>Another way to make it is to mix the rum or brandy with the tea without
+burning it. It is warmed, used, and kept like the above. The quantity of
+water may be reduced or augmented, according to taste, and so also the
+sugar.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Grate the rind of a lemon and of two oranges on a piece of
+sugar, the yellow part only, and put it in a bowl with cold water to
+dissolve it; then add two gills of pine-apple syrup, essence of vanilla,
+a pint of claret wine, a pint of Catawba, Sauterne, or Rhine wine, a
+pint of Champagne, and a gill of brandy; sweeten to taste; strain, put
+on ice for some time, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Put a pound of sugar in a bowl with a gill of water to
+dissolve it; then add the juice of three oranges, a little rind grated,
+a bottle of Champagne and one of Catawba or Sauterne wine; strain, place
+on ice for some time, and serve cold.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_408" id="Page_408">[408]</a></span>
+<p><i>Roman Punch.</i>&mdash;Make iced lemon with one quart of juice, same of syrup
+as directed, then mix with it the juice of four oranges, some lemon and
+orange rind grated, and about three gills of rum (or according to
+taste); also, if liked, the preparation used for iced fruit. Then put
+the mixture in the freezer, stir while freezing, and serve. It must not
+be frozen hard, as it is better when served rather liquid and frothy. It
+may be made with any other liquor, if preferred.</p>
+
+<p>Punch is served either after the <i>entr&eacute;es</i> or after the <i>relev&eacute;s</i> of
+fish, according to taste.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_409" id="Page_409">[409]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="PASTRY" id="PASTRY"></a>PASTRY.</h2>
+
+
+<p>Of all the branches of the science and art of cooking, pastry, if not
+the most difficult, requires the greatest care. An inferior piece of
+meat makes an inferior dish, but still it can be eaten without danger:
+but inferior pastry can hardly be eaten; or, if eaten, it is
+indigestible. We will recommend our readers to be very careful about
+proportions; it would not make a great difference for some kinds, but
+for others, putting too much or too little of one or more things would
+certainly result in failure. It is very important to have good
+materials. New flour is very inferior for pastry; it must have been
+ground for at least three months. Always keep it in bags, and in a dry
+and well-ventilated place. Sift before using it. Use fresh eggs, good
+butter, and good pulverized sugar.</p>
+
+<p>The most important of all is the oven, for, supposing that you have used
+good materials, have mixed them well, if not properly baked, every thing
+is lost, materials and labor. Supposing that you have a good oven, there
+is still a difficulty&mdash;and if the last, not the least&mdash;the degree of
+heat. Some require a quick oven, as puff-paste, <i>choux</i>, etc.; others a
+warm one, and others a slow oven, as <i>meringues</i> biscuits, etc. By
+putting the hand in the oven you can tell if it is properly heated, but
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_410" id="Page_410">[410]</a></span>
+it requires experience, and even practitioners are often mistaken;
+therefore, the easiest way is to have a thermometer in the oven. It may
+be placed in the oven of every stove or range; it is only necessary to
+bore a hole on the top of the range or stove, reaching the oven, and
+have a thermometer with the bulb inclosed in a brass sheath, perforated,
+long enough to reach the oven, and of the size of the hole bored&mdash;the
+glass tube being above the top of the range.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pastes.</i>&mdash;There are several kinds of paste. Puff-paste is the most
+important; it can be made very rich, rich, and less so; and several
+hundred different cakes can be made with it. Small cakes are called
+<i>petits fours</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The next in importance is the <i>p&acirc;te-&agrave;-choux</i>; then the paste for
+meat-pies, sometimes called <i>p&acirc;te bris&eacute;e</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Puff-paste requires care, but is easily made; <i>p&acirc;te-&agrave;-choux</i> must be
+well worked.</p>
+
+<p><i>Puff-paste.</i>&mdash;To make good puff-paste, good flour and butter, free from
+salt or sour milk, are indispensable. It must be made in a cool place.
+Take half a pound of good butter and knead it well in a bowl of cold
+water; if fresh and not salt, the kneading will take the sour milk out
+of it; if salty, it will remove the salt, then put it in another bowl of
+cold water and leave it till it is perfectly firm, and then use. When
+the butter is ready, put half a pound of flour on the paste-board or
+marble, make a hole in it, in which you put a pinch of salt, and cold
+water enough to make a rather stiff dough. It requires about half a pint
+of water, knead well, make a kind of ball with the dough, and put it on
+a corner of your marble or paste-board. Take the butter from the water
+and knead it on the board, to press all the water out of it. Give it the
+shape of a large sausage; dredge the board slightly with flour, roll the
+butter over only once, as it must take very little of it, dredge both
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_411" id="Page_411">[411]</a></span>
+ends of the piece of butter with flour also, then by putting one end on
+the board and pressing on the other end with your hands, you will
+flatten it of a rather round shape, and till of about half an inch in
+thickness. Put it thus on the corner of the board also. Immediately
+after having prepared the butter, take the dough and roll it down, of a
+round form also, and till large enough to envelop the butter in it
+easily. Remember that during the whole operation of folding and rolling
+the paste down, you must dust the marble or paste-board with flour, very
+slightly and often; do the same on the top of the paste. It is done in
+order to prevent the paste from adhering to the board or to the
+rolling-pin. It must be dusted slightly, so that the paste cannot absorb
+much of it, as it would make it tough. Have a slab of marble or slate;
+it is much easier than wood, and cooler.</p>
+
+<p>When the dough is spread, place the butter right on the middle of it.
+Turn one side of the dough over the butter, covering it a little more
+than half way; do the game with the opposite side, the dough lapping
+over that of the first side turned; do the same with the side toward
+you, and also with the side opposite. Dough stretching easily when
+pulled, and contracting easily when let loose after having pulled it,
+you have now still four corners of the dough to bring over the butter
+and in the same way as above, and by doing which, you give to the whole
+a somewhat round form, and also have the butter perfectly enveloped in
+the dough. Place the rolling-pin on the middle of the paste,
+horizontally, and press gently on it so as to make a furrow; do the same
+from place to place, on the whole surface, making furrows about an inch
+apart. Repeat the process again, this time placing the rolling-pin right
+on the top of each elevated line; and again, repeat it a third time,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_412" id="Page_412">[412]</a></span>
+also placing the pin on each elevated line. Now do exactly the same
+contrariwise. Then, roll the paste down, gently, evenly, to a thickness
+of about one fourth of an inch, and of a rectangular shape. Fold it in
+three by turning over one-third of its length toward the other end, and
+thus covering another third of it; fold or turn over the remaining
+third, so as to cover the first third turned over. Roll it down again of
+about the same thickness as above, but without making furrows in it;
+give it also the same rectangular shape, taking care to make the length
+of what was the width, <i>i. e.</i> extending it the longer way in an
+opposite direction to that of the first time, so that the ends will be
+what the sides were. Fold in three as before, put it on a plate and set
+in a refrigerator for from ten to twenty minutes. Take hold of it again,
+roll down as above, fold in the same way also, and put away for ten
+minutes. You roll down and fold from four to six times, not counting the
+time you envelop the butter in the dough. In cold weather, and when the
+butter is firm, fold and roll only four times; but in rather warm
+weather, fold and roll six times. If it is too warm, it is of no use to
+try with butter.</p>
+
+<p>Puff-paste may be made without stopping; that is, without putting it
+away in a cool place for some time; but it is better to let it rest; it
+is lighter and rises better. When finished, it can be used immediately;
+but it is better also to put it in a plate or dish, cover it with a
+towel, and put it in a refrigerator for from twelve to twenty-four
+hours. Although it must be kept in a cool place, do not put it near
+enough to the ice to freeze. It may be kept thus for two or three days.</p>
+
+<p><i>Puff-paste with Beef-Suet</i>.&mdash;Take half a pound of fresh beef suet, the
+nearest the kidney the best; break it in small pieces with the hands,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_413" id="Page_413">[413]</a></span>
+at the same time removing the thin skin and fibres as much as possible;
+put it in a bowl of cold water and knead well till it is rather soft;
+take it off, mash and bruise it well on the paste-board with a
+rolling-pin; knead it again like butter; roll it in flour like butter
+also, and proceed as above for the rest, and with the same proportion,
+weight for weight of flour and beef-suet, but it requires more salt.
+Beef-suet being more firm than butter, puff-paste can be made with it
+during summer, but it must be eaten immediately, being very inferior
+after a while.</p>
+
+<p>The proportion of butter and flour may be varied. Weight for weight
+makes the real puff-paste, and very rich. If less butter is used it will
+not rise as much, but is excellent nevertheless, and is more handy to
+make different cakes, such as short-cakes with fruit. Therefore
+puff-paste may be made with the following proportions: to one pound of
+flour, use fourteen, twelve, ten, eight, or even four ounces of butter
+or suet. Another way is to mix one or two eggs in the flour, water, and
+salt before rolling it down. When eggs are used, it requires less water.
+Envelop the butter in it in the same way.</p>
+
+<p><i>Allumettes.</i>&mdash;Cut strips of puff-paste of any length, about three
+inches wide and about one-fifth of an inch in thickness; mix well
+together, and for about three or four minutes, one ounce of sugar and
+about half the white of an egg; spread this mixture over the strips of
+paste, so as to have a rather thin coat of it; then cut the paste
+across, so as to make small strips about one inch broad and three inches
+long. Bake in an oven at about 400 deg. Fahr.</p>
+
+<p><i>Feuillett&eacute;s.</i>&mdash;Roll puff-paste down to a thickness of from one-eighth
+to one-half of an inch in thickness; cut it in pieces of any size and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_414" id="Page_414">[414]</a></span>
+shape, according to fancy with a knife or with a paste-cutter; glaze the
+top only with egg, and bake in an oven at about 450 deg. Fahr.</p>
+
+<p><i>Feuillett&eacute;s &agrave; la Cond&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Roll and cut the paste exactly as for the
+above; then, instead of baking it, fry it in hot fat (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>);
+turn into a colander when fried, dust with sugar, and serve as warm as
+possible.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pomm&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;Line the bottom of a bakepan with puff-paste, about
+one-eighth of an inch in thickness; spread stewed apples over it of a
+thickness of one-quarter of an inch; cover these with another thickness
+of puff-paste; prick the cover all over with the point of a knife, and
+bake in an oven at about 400 deg. Fahr. When baked, cut it in square
+pieces, dust with sugar, and serve hot or cold, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Porte-manteaux.</i>&mdash;Cut strips of puff-paste of any length, about three
+inches broad, and one-eighth of an inch in thickness; spread on the
+middle of the strips, and lengthwise, some frangipane, or stewed apples,
+or any kind of sweetmeats, of the size of the finger. Then turn one side
+of the paste over the frangipane or sweetmeats, glaze the border with
+egg (we mean by "the border," about half an inch in width, measuring
+from the edge); then turn the other side over it so that the glazing
+will cause the two pastes to stick together. Thus it will be only a
+little over an inch broad and about half an inch thick. Cut the strips
+across in small pieces about two inches long, glaze the top with egg,
+and then bake in an oven at 400 deg. Fahr.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tartelettes.</i>&mdash;Roll some puff-paste down to a thickness of about
+one-sixteenth of an inch; cut it, with a paste-cutter, of the size of
+small tin moulds, and place the pieces in the moulds; put about a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_415" id="Page_415">[415]</a></span>
+teaspoonful of frangipane in each; place two narrow strips of paste
+across each, which strips you cut with a truckle; bake in an oven at
+about 380 deg. Fahr.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tartelettes (sweet).</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above in every particular,
+except that you use any kind of sweetmeats or jelly instead of
+frangipane.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cake Pithiviers.</i>&mdash;Roll some puff-paste down to a thickness of about
+one-eighth of an inch; cut it round and place on a baking-pan; if the
+pan be square or rectangular, cut a round piece that will go in easily;
+cut a strip of paste about one inch broad, glaze with egg the border of
+the paste in the pan, place the strip all around, and then glaze it
+also. Fill the middle with the following mixture: pound four ounces of
+sweet almonds and mix them well with half a pound of sugar, two ounces
+of butter, four yolks of eggs, essence to flavor, and four macaroons
+chopped. Cut another piece of puff-paste round, and of the same size as
+the other; dust it slightly with flour, fold it gently in four; the
+piece then will have two straight sides and a circular one. With a sharp
+knife make three cuts in each of the two straight sides through the four
+thicknesses of the paste, and about half an inch in length. Make another
+cut through the paste also, representing half of the figure 8, right in
+the middle of the piece of paste, commencing half an inch from the
+border of the circular side and in the middle of it, and going toward
+the point, so that when the paste is open there are sixteen cuts in it.
+Place the paste still folded on the paste and mixture in the pan, the
+circular side on the border and the point right in the middle; open it
+gently, and the whole will be covered. Glaze with egg, and put in an
+oven at from 430 to 460 deg. Fahr. The same cake may be filled with a
+frangipane, and prepared as the above for the rest.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_416" id="Page_416">[416]</a></span>
+<p><i>Rissoles (also called Fourr&eacute;s).</i>&mdash;Cut round pieces of puff-paste about
+three inches in diameter; wet the edge with water, put a teaspoonful of
+compote or any kind of sweetmeat on one side of it, then fold the paste
+in two, so as to cover the sweetmeat; pinch the paste around to cause it
+to adhere, in order to envelop the sweetmeat; you have then a cake of a
+semicircular shape. Glaze with egg, bake in a quick oven, dust with
+sugar, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Galette du Gymnase.</i>&mdash;Make puff-paste with half a pound of butter to a
+pound of flour, and when done as directed, knead it. Then roll it down
+to the thickness of about one-fourth of an inch, cut it in strips of any
+length and about an inch and a half wide, glaze with egg, bake in a
+quick oven, about 420 deg. Fahr. The two ends of the strips may be
+brought together and joined, forming a crown. The same <i>galette</i> is made
+with trimmings of puff-paste, kneaded and rolled as above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fanchonnettes.</i>&mdash;These are made with the same puff-paste as the
+<i>galette</i> above; then cut it in round pieces, place them on small
+moulds, fill them with any kind of sweetmeats and frangipane, with
+almonds, half of each; bake, dust with sugar, and serve. Instead of
+frangipane, spread raisins over the sweetmeats, or almonds, peanuts,
+hazel-nuts, etc., all cut in small strips, lengthwise; you make then an
+infinite number of different small cakes.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fans.</i>&mdash;Make some puff-paste with equal weight of flour and butter,
+fold and roll it down six times, and put in a cold place. Leave it of a
+thickness of about one-quarter of an inch; cut it with a sharp knife in
+pieces of a rectangular shape, about four inches long and two broad,
+which cut again in two, across and from one corner to the other, so that
+you make two pieces of a right-angled triangle shape. Place the pieces
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_417" id="Page_417">[417]</a></span>
+on their sides in a bake-pan, on their sides, far apart, and bake in a
+very quick oven. When done, dust with sugar, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Vol-au-vent</i> and <i>bouch&eacute;es</i> for the day's use are baked early in the
+morning. They are warmed in a slow oven just before filling them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Vol-au-vent.</i>&mdash;A <i>vol-au-vent</i> is made with puff-paste and filled with
+oysters, meat, etc., when baked; that is, when the cake is baked and
+emptied, it is warmed in the oven, filled, and served warm. It is made
+of an oval or round shape. When made small it is generally of a round
+shape, but when made rather large it is generally of an oval shape. When
+the puff-paste is ready to be used, roll down to any thickness from
+one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch; cut it with a sharp-pointed
+knife of the size and shape you wish, then with the same knife cut what
+is called the cover, <i>i. e.</i>, make a cut all around, about half an inch
+from the edge or border, and about one-third through the paste, leaving
+two-thirds of the thickness of the paste uncut. This operation is called
+marking out the cover. Glaze the top of the paste with egg, and bake it
+in a very quick oven, about 500 deg. Fahr. In glazing, be careful not to
+glaze the sides or allow any egg to run on the sides; it would prevent
+the paste from rising. Some drawings may be made on the cover with the
+back of a knife, according to fancy: leaves, for instance, are very
+easily imitated; it is only necessary to run the knife on the paste,
+without cutting it. When in the oven, do not look at it for at least
+seven or eight minutes, for in opening the door of the oven it might
+cause the paste to fall and even after that time open and shut the door
+quickly; take off when properly baked. When the oven is hot enough it
+takes about twelve minutes, and even less time when the <i>vol-au-vent</i> is
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_418" id="Page_418">[418]</a></span>
+small. Take from the oven when baked, and immediately run the point of
+the knife all around and in the same place as you did before being
+baked, which place is well marked. Thus you cut off the cover and remove
+it, then remove also all the unbaked paste that is inside of the
+<i>vol-au-vent</i>, so that you have left what may be called a shell. Keep it
+then till the oysters or meat are ready to put in it. About five minutes
+before the filling is ready, put the shell or baked paste in a slow oven
+to warm it, turn the filling into it, enough to fill it entirely; place
+the cover on the top, and serve warm. The unbaked paste removed from the
+inside is baked, and makes an excellent cake, though not a sightly one.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Cut a piece of puff-paste the same as for the above one,
+that is, either round or oval, and of the size you wish. Instead of
+marking a cover, glaze the border with egg. It is understood here by
+"the border," a space about three-quarters of an inch broad and all
+around it, the space being measured from the edge toward the centre.
+Then cut a strip of puff-paste about three-quarters of an inch broad,
+long enough to cover the place or space glazed, which strip you put all
+around the first paste, and you then have a border. The place between
+the two pastes being glazed, they will adhere in baking. Then also glaze
+the upper side of the border carefully with egg. With a knife or fork,
+prick the paste, inside of the border only, in ten, fifteen, or twenty
+places, according to the size of the <i>vol-au-vent</i>, and in order to
+prevent that part from rising as much as it would if not pricked. Bake
+in the same oven as the above&mdash;a very quick one.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>vol-au-vent</i> thus made is deeper than the first one, having two
+thicknesses of paste. Generally there is little or no paste (unbaked) to
+remove; having pricked the centre, it prevents it from rising and bakes
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_419" id="Page_419">[419]</a></span>
+it evenly, but if there is any, remove it. A cover may be made by
+cutting a piece of puff-paste of the size of the <i>vol-au-vent</i> and
+baking it separately. It may be decorated with the back of the knife as
+the above one, and made convex on the top by baking it on a piece of
+tin. It is warmed, filled, and served the same as the above.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>vol-au-vent</i> is filled with the following:</p>
+
+<p><i>With Oysters.</i>&mdash;The quantity is according to the size of the
+<i>vol-au-vent</i>. Blanch one quart of oysters. Put two ounces of butter in
+a saucepan, set it on the fire, and when melted add a tablespoonful of
+flour; stir, and when turning rather yellow add also about a pint of
+milk, and the liquor from the oysters; stir, and as soon as it turns
+rather thick put the oysters in, taking care to have them free from
+pieces of the shell. Give one boil, add salt to taste, two yolks of
+eggs, stir again, turn into the warm paste, place the cover on, and
+serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Lobster.</i>&mdash;Prepare the lobster as for <i>bouch&eacute;es</i>, fill the shell
+with it, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cod-fish.</i>&mdash;Prepare fresh cod-fish <i>&agrave; la B&eacute;chamel</i>, fill the
+<i>vol-au-vent</i> or shell with it, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Turbot.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for cod-fish in every particular.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Eels.</i>&mdash;Fill the <i>vol-au-vent</i> with eels, oyster sauce, or in
+<i>poulette</i>, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Chicken.</i>&mdash;Fill with a chicken or part of a chicken in <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>
+or <i>saut&eacute;</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Livers and Combs of Chicken.</i>&mdash;Prepare combs and livers of chicken
+in <i>fricass&eacute;e</i>, the same as a chicken, fill the <i>vol-au-vent</i> with them.
+Serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sweetbreads.</i>&mdash;Cook the sweetbreads as directed, and fill the
+<i>vol-au-vent</i> with them. Serve warm.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_420" id="Page_420">[420]</a></span>
+<p><i>With Veal.</i>&mdash;Fill the <i>vol-au-vent</i> with veal in <i>blanquette</i>, in
+<i>ragout</i>, or in <i>bourgeoise</i>, and serve. It is generally filled with
+what has been left the day previous, as it requires very little for a
+<i>vol-au-vent</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Brains.</i>&mdash;It may be filled with brains of calf, pig, sheep, or
+veal; prepared in <i>poulette</i>, or stewed.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Rabbit.</i>&mdash;Fill it with part of a rabbit <i>saut&eacute;</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be filled with any other <i>meat</i> or <i>fish</i>, according to
+taste, and being cooked previously.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Fruits.</i>&mdash;Fill the <i>vol-au-vent</i> with any kind of stewed fruit,
+jelly, sweetmeats, etc. It may be only filled, or the fruit may be
+dressed in pyramid inside of it.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bouch&eacute;es.</i>&mdash;<i>Bouch&eacute;es</i>, or <i>petites bouch&eacute;es</i>, as they are sometimes
+called, are small, round <i>vol-au-vent</i>, served warm. They are also
+called <i>bouch&eacute;es de dames</i> and <i>petites bouch&eacute;es</i>. Roll puff-paste down
+to a thickness of about one-quarter of an inch, cut it with a
+paste-cutter of any size, mark the cover, and bake in an oven at about
+450&deg; Fahr. A good size is about three inches in diameter. When cut, take
+another paste-cutter about two inches in diameter, place it on the piece
+of paste; press on it just enough to mark the place where it was, but
+not enough to cut the paste, remove it and then the cover is marked;
+that is, you have a circle on the top of the paste, half an inch from
+the edge all around. Glaze with egg and bake. Make one for each person.
+Immediately on taking them from the oven, cut off the cover with a
+sharp-pointed knife. That is easily done; it is only necessary to follow
+the mark made with the paste-cutter, which is just as visible as before
+baking. Remove the cover and then carefully take out some unbaked paste
+inside of the <i>bouch&eacute;e</i>, fill with lobster prepared as directed below,
+put the cover on, and serve as warm as possible.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_421" id="Page_421">[421]</a></span>
+<p><i>The Filling.</i>&mdash;Cut some flesh of boiled lobster in dice. Put two ounces
+of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire; when melted, add a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir for about one minute, and add also broth
+(the quantity must be according to the number of <i>bouch&eacute;es</i>, but we will
+give here the quantity necessary for five or six <i>bouch&eacute;es</i>), about
+three gills, also salt, pepper, then the cut lobster; stir now and then
+for five or six minutes, and use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Oysters.</i>&mdash;Prepare, fill and serve exactly as the above, except that
+you fill with oysters prepared as for <i>vol-au-vent</i>, instead of filling
+with lobster.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Cod-fish.</i>&mdash;Fill the <i>bouch&eacute;es</i> with cod-fish, prepared <i>&agrave; la
+B&eacute;chamel</i>, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Eels.</i>&mdash;Have some eels prepared either in <i>poulette</i> or
+oyster-sauce, fill the <i>bouch&eacute;es</i>, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Turbot.</i>&mdash;It is filled with turbot <i>&agrave; la cr&egrave;me</i> or <i>&agrave; la B&eacute;chamel</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be filled with any kind of fish, prepared <i>&agrave; la B&eacute;chamel</i>,
+<i>&agrave; la cr&egrave;me</i>, in white sauce, oyster-sauce, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Truffles.</i>&mdash;Cut the white flesh of a chicken in dice, prepare it as
+a chicken <i>saut&eacute;</i>, using truffles but no mushrooms, fill the <i>bouch&eacute;es</i>
+with it and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Pur&eacute;e of Chicken, or Bouch&eacute;es de Dames.</i>&mdash;It is filled with some
+<i>pur&eacute;e</i> of chicken, and served as warm as possible.</p>
+
+<p>Do the same with a <i>pur&eacute;e</i> of game.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Bobolink.</i>&mdash;Prepare and clean twelve bobolinks as directed for
+birds, put a teaspoonful of truffles, cut in small dice, in each bird,
+for stuffing; sew the incision, and bake or roast the birds. Put each
+bird in a <i>bouch&eacute;e</i>, and serve warm. A more delicate dish cannot be
+made.</p>
+
+<p>The same may be done with any kind of <i>small bird</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bouch&eacute;es</i> are generally served on a napkin and on a dish, in pyramid.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_422" id="Page_422">[422]</a></span>
+<p><i>P&acirc;te &agrave; choux.</i>&mdash;Weigh four ounces of flour, to which add half a
+teaspoonful of sugar. Put two gills of cold water in a tin saucepan with
+two ounces of butter, and set it on the fire, stir a little with a
+wooden spoon to melt the butter before the water boils. At the first
+boiling of the water, throw into it the four ounces of flour and stir
+very fast with the spoon, holding the pan fast with the left hand. As
+soon as the whole is thoroughly mixed, take from the fire, but continue
+stirring for about fifteen or twenty seconds. It takes hardly half a
+minute from the time the flour is dropped in the pan to that when taken
+from the fire. The quicker it is done, the better. When properly done,
+nothing at all sticks to the pan, and by touching it with the finger it
+feels as soft as velvet, and does not adhere to it at all. Let it stand
+two or three minutes, then mix well with it, by means of a spoon, one
+egg; then another, and so on; in all four. It takes some time and work
+to mix the eggs, especially to mix the first one, the paste being rather
+stiff. They are added one at a time, in order to mix them better. If the
+eggs are small, add half of one or one more. To use only half a one, it
+is necessary to beat it first. Let the paste stand half an hour, stir
+again a little, and use. If it is left standing for some time and is
+found rather dry, add a little egg, which mix, and then use.</p>
+
+<p><i>Beignets Souffl&eacute;s</i>&mdash;(<i>also called Pets de Nonne</i>).&mdash;Make some <i>p&acirc;te &agrave;
+choux</i>; take a small tablespoonful of it, holding the spoon with the
+left hand, and with the forefinger of the right cause the paste to fall
+in hot fat on the fire (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>), turn over and over again till
+fried, then turn into a colander, dust with sugar, and serve hot. In
+frying, the paste will swell four or five times its size, and by
+dropping it carefully and as nearly of a round shape as possible, the
+cakes will be nearly round when done.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_423" id="Page_423">[423]</a></span>
+<p><i>Choux or Cream Cakes.</i>&mdash;Make some <i>p&acirc;te &agrave; choux</i>: have a buttered
+bakepan, and drop the paste upon it in the same way as you drop the
+<i>beignets</i> above; glaze with egg, and bake in an oven at about 380&deg;
+Fahr. When baked and cold, make a cut on one side, about two-thirds
+through, the cut to be horizontal, a little above the middle, then, by
+raising the top a little, fill the cake, which is hollow, with one of
+the following creams: <i>whipped</i>, <i>Chantilly</i>, <i>cuite</i>, <i>frangipane</i>, or
+<i>l&eacute;g&egrave;re</i>; dust with sugar, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, with Almonds.</i>&mdash;Blanch sweet almonds and cut them in small
+strips, lengthwise; then, when the choux are in the bakepan and glazed
+with egg, spread the almonds all over, bake, fill, and serve as the
+above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Saint Honor&eacute;.</i>&mdash;Make some <i>p&acirc;te &agrave; choux</i>. Then put four tablespoonfuls
+of flour on the paste-board with two of sugar, one egg, one ounce of
+butter, salt, and a pinch of cinnamon; mix and knead the whole well;
+roll the paste down to a thickness of about one quarter of an inch and
+place it in a bakepan. Put a dessert-plate upside down on the paste, and
+cut it all around the plate with a knife; remove what is cut off and
+also the plate. Spread some <i>p&acirc;te &agrave; choux</i>, about a teaspoonful, all
+over the paste left in the bakepan, about one-sixteenth of an inch in
+thickness; put some of it also in the pastry-bag, and by squeezing it
+out, make a border with it about the size of the finger; prick the
+middle of the paste in about a dozen places with a fork and inside of
+the border; glaze the border with egg, and then bake in an oven at about
+400&deg; Fahr. While the above is baking, make very small <i>choux</i> (about the
+size of a macaroon), and bake them also. When both are baked, and while
+they are cooking, make some <i>cr&egrave;me l&eacute;g&egrave;re</i>, fill the inside of the cake
+with it, so as to imitate a sugar-loaf or mound, about four inches in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_424" id="Page_424">[424]</a></span>
+height, smooth it or scallop it with a knife. Put two tablespoonfuls of
+sugar and two of water in a saucepan, set it on the fire, toss the pan
+occasionally to boil evenly, and till it becomes like syrup. Do not stir
+too much, else it will turn white and somewhat like molasses-candy. It
+is reduced enough when, by dipping (not stirring) a little stick in it
+and dipping it again immediately in cold water, the syrup-like liquor
+that has adhered to it breaks easily and is very transparent. It must be
+as transparent as glass. As soon as reduced thus, take from the fire and
+use. Dip the top of each small <i>chou</i> in it, holding the <i>chou</i> with a
+small knife stuck in it; place a piece of candy (generally, sugar-plums
+of various colors are used) on the top of each <i>chou</i>; place them apart
+and around the <i>cr&egrave;me l&eacute;g&egrave;re</i>, and upon the border of the cake, with one
+a little larger than the others on the top of it; serve cold. This cake
+is as good as it is sightly.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eclairs.</i>&mdash;<i>Eclairs</i> are also called <i>petits pains</i> or <i>profiterolles
+au chocolat</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eclairs au Chocolat.</i>&mdash;Make some <i>p&acirc;te &agrave; choux</i> as directed above, and
+put it in the pastry-bag with tube No. 1 at the end of it. Force it out
+of the bag into a baking-pan greased with butter. By closing and holding
+up the larger end of the bag and by pressing it downward, it will come
+out of the tube in a rope-like shape and of the size of the tube. Draw
+the bag toward you while pressing, and stop when you have spread a
+length of about four inches. Repeat this operation till the baking-pan
+is full or till the paste is all out. Leave a space of about two inches
+between each cake, as they swell in baking. Bake in an oven at about 370
+degrees. When baked and cold, slit one side about half through, open
+gently and fill each cake with the following cream, and then close it.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_425" id="Page_425">[425]</a></span>
+Cream: put in a block-tin saucepan three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two
+of flour, four yolks of eggs, and mix well with a wooden spoon. Add a
+pint of milk, little by little, and mixing the while; set on the fire,
+stir continually till it becomes rather thick, and take off. Have one
+ounce of chocolate melted on a slow fire in half a gill of milk, and mix
+it with the rest, and use. Put one ounce of chocolate in a tin saucepan
+with a teaspoonful of water, and set on a slow fire; when melted, mix
+with it two tablespoonfuls of sugar, stir for a while; that is, till it
+is just thick enough to spread it over the cakes, and not liquid enough
+to run down the sides. A thickness of about one-sixteenth of an inch is
+sufficient. The cakes may either be dipped in the chocolate or the
+chocolate may be spread over them with a knife. Serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eclairs au Caf&eacute;.</i>&mdash;It is made exactly like the above, except that you
+mix with the cream three tablespoonfuls of strong coffee, instead of
+chocolate and milk.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eclairs au Th&eacute;.</i>&mdash;It is made like the preceding one, with the exception
+that strong tea is used instead of strong coffee.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eclairs &agrave; la Vanille.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for the above, but mix a teaspoonful
+of essence of vanilla in the cream instead of tea.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eclairs &agrave; l'Essence.</i>&mdash;The meaning of <i>&eacute;clairs &agrave; l'essence</i> is, that a
+few drops of any kind of essence are mixed with the cream instead of
+chocolate and milk, and prepared and served like the others.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eclairs aux Fraises.</i>&mdash;Instead of filling the cakes with cream, fill
+them with strawberry-jelly, and for the rest proceed as for <i>&eacute;clairs au
+chocolat</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Eclairs aux Groseilles.</i>&mdash;Made like the above, but filled with
+currant-jelly.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_426" id="Page_426">[426]</a></span>
+<p>Do the same with <i>apple</i>, <i>blackberry</i>, <i>cherry</i>, <i>grape</i>, <i>peach</i>,
+<i>pear</i>, <i>plum</i>, <i>quince</i>, <i>raspberry jelly</i>, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Petits Pains &agrave; la Reine.</i>&mdash;<i>Eclairs</i> are so called when filled with
+marmalade of peaches in which sweet almonds chopped fine have been mixed
+previously.</p>
+
+<p><i>Petits Pains &agrave; la Rose.</i>&mdash;Like the above, and by adding a few drops of
+essence of roses to the marmalade.</p>
+
+<p><i>Petits Pains &agrave; l'Essence.</i>&mdash;Like the above, with any kind of essence:
+<i>pink</i>, <i>violet</i>, <i>geranium</i>, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Biscuits in Boxes.</i>&mdash;Make some square boxes with sheets of white paper;
+fill them about two-thirds full with the same mixture as for lady's
+fingers, dust with sugar, and bake in a slow oven; serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Almonds.</i>&mdash;Mix well together with a wooden spoon four yolks of
+eggs with four ounces of sugar (pulverized), add three ounces of flour
+and mix well again. Beat the four whites to a stiff froth, and then have
+somebody to turn the mixture into them while you finish beating, and
+then mix the whole gently but well. It must not be stirred too much.
+Have two ounces of bitter almonds well pounded, with a teaspoonful of
+sugar, and mix them with the rest. Butter small moulds, turn the mixture
+into them, filling about two-thirds full, glaze with egg, dust with
+sugar, and bake in an oven at about 300 degrees Fahr.; serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Chocolate.</i>&mdash;Make some biscuits like the above, omitting the
+almonds, and flavoring them with a few drops of essence of vanilla. When
+cold, glaze them with chocolate, the same as described for <i>&eacute;clairs</i>,
+and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Essence.</i>&mdash;Make biscuits with almonds or without, as the above
+ones, and flavor them with any kind of essence, or with orange and lemon
+rind grated.</p>
+
+<p><i>Glazed.</i>&mdash;When the biscuits are baked, glaze them with icing, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_427" id="Page_427">[427]</a></span>
+serve cold. These are sometimes called <i>biscuits &agrave; la royale</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Of Rheims.</i>&mdash;Mix well in a bowl six yolks of eggs with six ounces of
+sugar, with a wooden spoon. Add and mix with the above five ounces of
+flour and lemon-rind grated; beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth,
+and mix them also with the rest. Butter small moulds, turn the mixture
+into them, and bake in a slow oven, about 300 degrees Fahr. These are
+often made of the shape of lady's fingers. They are excellent eaten with
+wine.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Filberts.</i>&mdash;Put ten or twelve ounces of filberts or peanuts in a
+mortar with a few drops of orange-flower water and about half the white
+of an egg; when reduced to a paste, mix well with it four ounces of
+sifted flour, eight ounces of fine, white sugar, the yolks of two eggs
+well beaten, and the whites of four eggs whisked to a froth; when the
+whole is properly mixed, put it into a well-buttered mould, which place
+in a moderately-heated oven; watch it carefully, take out when cooked,
+which is easily known by the color it assumes.</p>
+
+<p>Biscuits with hazel-nuts, peach, or other kernels, may be made in the
+same way; that is, using them instead of filberts.</p>
+
+<p><i>Lady's Fingers.</i>&mdash;Mix well together with a wooden spoon four yolks of
+eggs and four ounces of pulverized sugar, then add three ounces of flour
+and mix well again. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth; have
+somebody to turn two tablespoonfuls of the mixture into the whites as
+soon as beaten enough, and which you mix with the egg-beater, then turn
+the rest or the mixture in, mixing gently with the wooden spoon. This
+must be done rather quickly, to prevent the whole from turning liquid.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_428" id="Page_428">[428]</a></span>
+Put the mixture in the pastry-bag with tin tube No. 1 at the end of it,
+squeeze it out in sticks about four inches long into a baking-pan
+slightly buttered and dusted with flour, or on a piece of paper placed
+in the bottom of the pan; then dust them with sugar, and bake in a
+rather slow oven. They must not change in the oven, that is, they must
+not spread or swell, showing that the oven is too hot or too slow, or
+that the mixture has not been properly prepared. They must be like small
+sticks, round on the upper side and flat underneath. They are sometimes
+called <i>biscuits &agrave; la cuiller</i>. They are used to make a <i>Charlotte
+Russe</i>, or eaten with wine.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cakes.</span>&mdash;<i>Almond.</i>&mdash;Blanch, skin, and pound well one ounce of sweet
+almonds and the same of bitter ones, which you mix with eight ounces of
+pulverized sugar, six of flour, two eggs, a tablespoonful of brandy or
+rum, and a pinch of sugar. When thoroughly mixed, add five yolks of
+eggs, mix and stir for five minutes, then add also and mix half a pound
+of melted butter. Turn the mixture in small moulds, well buttered, and
+bake in a rather slow oven. Some almonds cut in small pieces may be
+spread over just before baking; or, when baked, some icing may be spread
+over. Serve cold. This is also called <i>Nantais cake</i>. Instead of
+almonds, use filberts, hazel-nuts, currants, peanuts, or raisins.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fourr&eacute;.</i>&mdash;This is made with puff-paste and cream, or puff-paste and
+different mixtures placed inside of it, such as <i>Pithiviers cake</i> and
+fruit-pies.</p>
+
+<p><i>Anchovy.</i>&mdash;Knead four ounces of flour with two ounces of butter, a
+little salt, and a little water. Clean four anchovies and put them in
+vinegar for five minutes; then cut them in small pieces, put them in a
+bowl, and cover them with sweet-oil; leave them thus ten minutes. Roll
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_429" id="Page_429">[429]</a></span>
+the paste thin, then place a little more than half of it on a tart-dish,
+raising it all around with the thumb and forefinger; cover the paste
+with the anchovies, and these with the remainder of the paste, after
+having cut it in square pieces; spread some of the oil in which were the
+anchovies on it, bake in a warm oven, baste now and then with a little
+of the oil, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apple.</i>&mdash;Stew eight or ten apples and mash them through a sieve. Put
+them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter and eight of sugar,
+set on the fire for five minutes, take off, let cool, and then mix with
+it five or six eggs, one after another. Turn the mixture into a buttered
+mould, which you place in a pan of boiling water, then boil slowly about
+half an hour, turn over a dish, and serve warm or cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hard.</i>&mdash;Put half a pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in
+the middle; put into it three ounces of pulverized sugar, three ounces
+of butter, two eggs, a pinch of cinnamon, a few drops of essence, and
+knead the whole well, dust the board with flour, roll the paste down to
+a thickness of about one-fourth of an inch, cut it in pieces with a
+paste-cutter, of any shape; beat one egg with a teaspoonful of sugar and
+glaze the pieces with it; with a piece of wood draw leaves or flowers on
+each, and bake in an oven at about 360 degrees Fahr. They are eaten cold
+at tea.</p>
+
+<p><i>Heavy or G&acirc;teau de Plomb.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above with one pound of flour, a
+pinch of salt, one ounce of sugar, four yolks of eggs, one pound of
+butter, half a pint of cream; when rolled down as above, fold in two or
+four, and roll down again; repeat the process four times. Then place it
+in a bakepan and put in a hot oven. Serve cold at tea.</p>
+
+<p><i>Milanais.</i>&mdash;Put one pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_430" id="Page_430">[430]</a></span>
+in the middle, in which you put half a pound of butter, same of sugar,
+two eggs, a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a gill of rum. Mix and knead
+to a rather stiff dough with cold water. Spread it and roll it down to a
+thickness of about one-eighth of an inch. Glaze it with egg, dust with
+sugar and bake in a rather quick oven. When cold, cut it in two, spread
+some <i>compote</i> of peaches or of apricots on one half, put the other half
+over it, cut in pieces according to fancy, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Rum Cakes.</i>&mdash;These are made with sponge cake cut with a paste-cutter,
+some sweetmeats or jelly is placed on the middle, then it is dusted with
+pulverized sugar, watered with rum, and then placed in the oven for
+about two minutes. These cakes have several names, according to the kind
+of sweetmeat used.</p>
+
+<p><i>Savarin.</i>&mdash;Put one pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in
+the middle; put into it four ounces of sugar, and make a hole again;
+then put in the middle four eggs, twelve ounces of butter, one and a
+half gills of milk; mix and knead the whole well; then mix again in the
+whole four ounces of leaven prepared as directed; butter a mould, dust
+it with sweet almonds chopped; put the mixture in it; put in a warm
+place (about 78 degrees Fahr.) to rise, and bake in an oven at 430
+degrees Fahr. It will take about two and a half hours to rise. The mould
+must not be filled, else it will run over in rising.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sauce for Savarin.</i>&mdash;Put four ounces of sugar and half a pint of cold
+water in a block-tin saucepan, set it on the fire and boil till reduced
+about one-third; then add from one-half to one gill of rum (according to
+taste), give one more boil, and turn over the cake. Baste the cake with
+the sauce till the whole is absorbed by it. Serve warm or cold.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_431" id="Page_431">[431]</a></span>
+<p><i>Sponge Cake.</i>&mdash;Mix well together in a bowl six yolks of eggs with four
+ounces of sugar; add four ounces of flour and mix again, add also a few
+drops of essence, then whisk six whites of eggs to a stiff froth and mix
+them again with the rest. Butter a mould, put the mixture into it, not
+filling it more than two-thirds full, and bake in an oven at about 320
+degrees. Sponge cake may be cut in pieces and used to make a <i>Charlotte
+Russe</i>, instead of lady's fingers.</p>
+
+<p><i>Apple Dumplings.</i>&mdash;Quarter, peel, and core the apples, and cut them in
+pieces, then envelop them in puff-paste with beef-suet, boil till
+thoroughly done, and serve warm with sugar, or with apple or wine sauce.
+It may also be served with sauce for puddings.</p>
+
+<p><i>Buckwheat Cakes.</i>&mdash;Make a kind of thin dough with tepid water, yeast,
+buckwheat flour, and a little sugar and salt, let rise, and fry with
+butter. Serve hot with sugar, or molasses, or butter.</p>
+
+<p><i>Corn Cakes.</i>&mdash;Mix well in a bowl two eggs with two ounces of melted
+butter, a pint of corn-meal, salt and sugar to taste. While mixing set
+milk on the fire, and as soon as it rises, turn it into the mixture,
+little by little, stirring and mixing the while, and till it makes a
+kind of thick dough. Butter well a shallow bakepan, put the mixture into
+it, and bake.</p>
+
+<p><i>Crullers.</i>&mdash;Mix well together and work with a wooden spoon, in a bowl,
+one egg with two ounces of melted butter and half a pound of pulverized
+sugar; then add salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, a few drops of essence, and one
+pound of flour, and mix again; add also milk, little by little, stirring
+and mixing at the same time, enough to make a thick batter. Divide the
+mixture in parts and fry in hot fat. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>.)</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_432" id="Page_432">[432]</a></span>
+<p><i>Doughnuts.</i>&mdash;Mix well together in a bowl four eggs with half a pound of
+sugar, add two or three ounces of melted butter and mix again, then mix
+with the whole, about one pound of flour and boiled milk enough to make
+a rather thick dough, season and mix well with the whole, nutmeg,
+cinnamon, and a few drops of essence. Cut in fancy pieces with a knife
+or paste-cutter, and fry in hot fat. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Frying</span>.) Dust with sugar,
+and serve hot.</p>
+
+<p><i>Muffins.</i>&mdash;Mix well together on the paste-board one pound of flour and
+three eggs, then add and mix again milk enough to make a thin dough, a
+little yeast and salt. Put away to rise; divide in parts and bake.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pound Cake.</i>&mdash;Take a large bowl and put in it one pound of melted
+butter and one pound of pulverized sugar, and mix the two thoroughly
+together with a wooden spoon; then add and mix well also with them,
+three eggs previously beaten with a saltspoonful of nutmeg and cinnamon,
+half of each. When the eggs are mixed, add also half a pound of flour,
+mix well again; then add six well-beaten eggs, and mix; then another
+half pound of flour, a few drops of essence of rose, half a gill of
+Sherry wine, a liquor-glass of brandy, four ounces of citron, and half a
+pound of comfited fruit, chopped fine. Beat and mix as well as possible.
+Butter a mould, dust it with fine bread-crumbs, turn the mixture into
+it, and bake in a warm but not quick oven. It takes about two and a half
+hours to bake. As soon as cold, serve it. It may be glazed with sugar,
+or sugar and white of egg.</p>
+
+<p><i>Short Cake.</i>&mdash;Cut puff-paste, made with a pound of flour and six or
+eight ounces of butter, in square or round pieces, bake; when cold,
+spread sweetened strawberries on, then cover with another cake, spread
+strawberries again on it, etc. Strawberry-jelly may be used.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_433" id="Page_433">[433]</a></span>
+<p><i>Plum.</i>&mdash;Mix well in a vessel a pound of sugar with a pound of butter,
+and then again with eight eggs, one at a time, also half a pound of
+raisins, half a pound of flour, a little rum, and a little yeast. Line a
+mould with buttered paper, turn the mixture into it, not filling it more
+than two-thirds full, place it in a warm but not quick oven for nearly
+two hours, remove the mould, and serve hot or cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tea Cake.</i>&mdash;Put half a pound of flour on the paste-board, and in the
+middle of it a pinch of salt, half an ounce of sugar, two eggs, four
+ounces of melted butter, and cold water enough to make a rather stiff
+paste. Knead well, roll down to about a quarter of an inch in thickness;
+cut it in pieces with a knife or paste-cutter; moisten the top with
+water by means of a brush, dust with sugar, and bake in an oven at about
+370 degrees Fahr. Serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Viennois.</i>&mdash;Make some biscuits in boxes, and when cold, cut off a
+little piece on the top, in the centre, which place you fill with
+peaches or apricots in <i>compote</i>; put two together; serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Jelly.</i>&mdash;Proceed as above in every particular, using currant or
+raspberry jelly instead of <i>compote</i>.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MEAT-PIES.</h4>
+
+<p><i>P&acirc;t&eacute;s de Viande.</i>&mdash;Meat-pies are made in moulds without bottoms and
+which open in two, or are made of two pieces joined and fastened
+together with two pieces of wire. The size of the mould and that of the
+pie are according to taste. A pie may be made and filled with a
+reed-bird, or with a quail, or a partridge, or prairie-chicken, or with
+a dozen of them. We will give the receipt for one prairie-chicken.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_434" id="Page_434">[434]</a></span>
+<p><i>P&acirc;t&eacute; of Game.</i>&mdash;Bone a prairie-chicken as directed for birds, and cut
+it in about half a dozen slices or pieces. Grease the mould with butter
+and put it in a baking-pan. Put one pound of flour on the paste-board
+and make a hole in the middle; place in it six ounces of butter, one
+egg, a pinch of salt, and about one gill and a half of cold water, and
+knead the whole well. Roll it down to a thickness of about one-quarter
+of an inch, and of a rectangular shape; fold in two, and roll down
+again. Repeat this from six to twenty times; that is, till the paste is
+soft. The last time roll it down to a thickness of one-third of an inch,
+and give it as round a shape as possible. Dust the upper side slightly
+with flour, fold in two in this way: turn the side farthest from you on
+the other, so that the side of the paste nearest to you will be somewhat
+round, and the opposite one will be straight. By pulling with the hands
+the two ends of the straight side toward you, it will make it somewhat
+round also; then, take hold of the paste exactly in the places where you
+were pulling; put it in the mould with the side nearest to you on the
+top; open it gently, and with the hands spread it so that the bottom and
+sides of the mould will be perfectly lined with it. With a sharp knife
+cut the paste even with the top of the mould. Line the sides of the
+paste with thin slices of fat salt pork. Mix in a bowl one pound and a
+half of sausage-meat with two eggs, salt, pepper, a pinch of cinnamon
+and one of nutmeg; place a layer of this mixture about half an inch
+thick on the bottom of the paste; then a layer of thin slices of fat
+salt pork; one of slices of prairie-chicken; again a layer of
+sausage-meat, one of salt pork, etc., layer upon layer, till the mould
+is nearly full, finishing with a layer of sausage-meat, and giving to
+the top of the <i>p&acirc;t&eacute;</i> a convex form, but leaving a space of about half
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_435" id="Page_435">[435]</a></span>
+an inch unfilled all around, so that the top of the <i>p&acirc;t&eacute;</i> will be about
+one inch higher than the sides, and half an inch higher than the sides
+of the mould and paste. The cover of the <i>p&acirc;t&eacute;</i> is made with the same
+paste as the bottom and sides, or with puff-paste.</p>
+
+<p>Roll the paste down to a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch. Glaze
+the sides of the paste in the mould with egg; that is, the space (half
+an inch) left unfilled; put the paste for the cover on the <i>p&acirc;t&eacute;</i>; press
+it gently against the other paste with the fingers in order to cause the
+two pastes to adhere; with a sharp knife cut off the paste even with the
+mould. Make a hole in the middle and on the top of the cover about one
+inch in diameter; cut five pieces of paste about three inches square,
+dust them slightly with flour; place them one upon another on your left
+thumb, keeping it erect; then with the right hand take hold of the
+pieces, bringing the edges together so that the top will form a ball;
+with a sharp knife make two cuts across and through the five pieces;
+form a kind of stem as if you were to imitate a mushroom with these
+pieces, and plant the stem in the hole; when baked it looks like a
+flower. Glaze the cover with egg; cut strips of paste in different
+shapes with a knife or paste-cutter, place them on it according to
+fancy, and bake in an oven at about 390 degrees Fahr. The strips of
+paste may also be glazed with egg. It will take about two hours to bake.
+As soon as cold, cut the cover all around and remove it; fill the empty
+places with meat or calf's-foot jelly and put it on the dish. Chop some
+of the same jelly, put some all around it and on the top; cut some of it
+also in fancy shapes with a knife or paste-cutter; place it all around
+the dish and on the top of the <i>p&acirc;t&eacute;</i>, and serve.</p>
+
+<p>The cut following represents a plain pie; that is, without any
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_436" id="Page_436">[436]</a></span>
+decoration, and immediately after having removed the mould.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0436.jpg" width="514" height="257" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Another, or Rabbit-Pie.</i>&mdash;Chop very fine and separately one pound of
+veal, one of beef, one of lean fresh pork, three of rabbit or hare, and
+three of fat fresh pork. Mix the whole well together and season with
+salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, all grated or in powder.
+Line a mould with paste as directed above, put a layer of the mixture in
+the mould about one inch thick, place on it slices of truffles, if handy
+and liked; then another layer, truffles, etc., till the mould is full.
+If filled without truffles, it is not necessary to put layer after
+layer. Cover also as above, and bake in a moderately heated oven, about
+320 degrees Fahr. It takes from five to six hours to bake.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another, or Prairie-chicken Pie.</i>&mdash;Skin a prairie-hen (or several) and
+bone it. It is not necessary in boning it for a pie to proceed as
+directed for boned turkey, but merely to remove all the bones in the
+easiest and quickest manner; you cannot spoil the flesh, as it is to be
+chopped. Weigh the flesh when free from bones and skin. Weigh as much
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_437" id="Page_437">[437]</a></span>
+of each of the following: ham, salt pork, and calf's liver. Grate the
+salt pork and chop the three others very fine, and then pound the whole.
+Season with salt, pepper, cloves and nutmeg, both grated, a pinch of
+cinnamon and chopped parsley; mix with the whole two or three eggs, one
+at a time, in order to mix better. Line a mould with paste as directed
+above; line the paste with thin slices of salt pork, fill it with the
+mixture, and cover, bake, finish, and serve exactly the same as the
+preceding. For two prairie-hens it will require about three hours to
+bake. Slices of truffles may also be used; they are mixed at the same
+time with the eggs and seasonings.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Cold Meat.</i>&mdash;When the paste is placed in the mould as directed
+above, line it with thin slices of salt pork, then put a very thin layer
+of sausage-meat, prepared also as above, then fill with butcher's meat,
+poultry, and game, having previously removed all the bones, and cut the
+meat in strips; the greater the variety, the better the <i>p&acirc;t&eacute;</i>. Put a
+little of each kind of meat used in a mortar, say from one ounce to a
+pound, with parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, salt and pepper; pound the whole
+well and then mix with one egg, half a gill of white wine, or a
+liquor-glass of brandy, to every pound of meat. Fill the hollow places
+with the mixture, to which you may add a little gravy or broth if it is
+not liquid enough. Place thin slices of salt pork on the top, cover with
+paste as described above, cook and serve as above also.</p>
+
+<p>Meat-pies, as seen above, are made with every kind of meat; with one or
+several kinds at the same time, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p>Wines and liquors may be used, it is only a matter of taste. The cover
+may be placed with only a hole in the centre, instead of decorating it.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_438" id="Page_438">[438]</a></span>
+<p>By using in turn butcher's meat, poultry, and game, an infinite number
+of different <i>p&acirc;t&eacute;s</i> can easily be made.</p>
+
+<p><i>Terrines (Terreen, or Tureen).</i>&mdash;A terrine differs from a meat-pie in
+this, that instead of using a tin or brass mould and lining it with
+paste, a <i>terrine</i> (French word for terreen) is used, and is only lined
+with thin slices of salt pork, and closed with its cover. It is filled,
+cooked, and served in the same way as a meat-pie.</p>
+
+<p><i>Timbale.</i>&mdash;The name <i>timbale</i> is given to a meat-pie when made in a
+straight tin mould, lined as a <i>terrine</i>, and covered with a tin cover.
+A <i>terrine</i> or <i>timbale</i> keeps longer in winter than the pie.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pains de Gibier (Pains of Game).</i>&mdash;This means, loaves of game. It is a
+<i>terrine</i> made with any kind of game, of one or of several kinds, with
+the exception that birds are boned and filled (<i>see</i> <span class="smcap">Directions for
+Boning</span>), before placing them in the terreen; also, before covering the
+terreen, place a piece of buttered paper all around, so as to have it as
+nearly air-tight as possible when covered. Bake as above, and as soon as
+out of the oven remove the cover; put a piece of tin, sheet-iron, or
+wood on the top, large enough to cover the meat, but not the border of
+the terreen. Place some weight on it in order to press the meat down,
+and leave thus over night. The weight and piece of tin are removed, the
+terreen is wiped clean, the cover placed on it, and it is then served,
+or served on a dish. It keeps very well in winter time, and many are
+imported from Europe, especially those made like the following:</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Cut four ounces of boiled beef-tongue and one pound of
+truffles in large dice. Put about two ounces of salt pork in a
+frying-pan on the fire, and when fried, add about six ounces of the
+flesh of prairie-hen, cut in pieces, four prairie-hens' and four chicken
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_439" id="Page_439">[439]</a></span>
+livers, eight in all; stir, and when turning rather brown, add also
+chopped parsley, salt, and pepper; stir again for two or three minutes,
+and take off. Put in a mortar one pound of flesh of prairie-hen, baked
+and chopped; one pound and a quarter of fat salt pork, and about four
+ounces of <i>panade</i>. Pound the whole well and put it in a large bowl.
+Then pound well also the six ounces of prairie-hen flesh and eight
+livers with twelve yolks of eggs and a wine-glass of Madeira wine, and
+put in the bowl also. Add to it the tongue and truffles, and mix the
+whole well, adding game-gravy, or meat-gravy if more handy, about a gill
+of it, season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cloves, grated.
+Bay-leaf and thyme, well pounded, may also be used, if liked. After
+being pounded, the whole may be mashed through a sieve, but it is really
+not necessary. Then place the mixture in one, two, or three <i>terrines</i>,
+cook, and serve as above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another</i>.&mdash;Take the flesh of six prairie-hens when cooked, and pound it
+well. Pound also eight livers, fried; four of prairie-hens and four of
+chickens; put flesh and livers in a saucepan with gravy, set on a slow
+fire, and as soon as warm, add to it, little by little, and stirring
+continually, about three-fourths of its volume of good butter. When all
+the butter is in, take from the fire, mix one pound of truffles cut in
+dice with it; put the mixture in one or more terrines; cover, bake, and
+serve as above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Terrines</i> and <i>pains</i> are sometimes made with poultry, and in the same
+way as those of game.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fish-Pies</i>.&mdash;These are made in the same way as meat-pies, using cooked
+fish instead of meat, but putting fish only inside of the paste. When
+done it is filled with <i>coulis of fish</i> instead of jelly. Serve as a
+meat-pie. The fish must be free from bones.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_440" id="Page_440">[440]</a></span>
+<p><i>Fruit-Pies.</i>&mdash;Pies are made with paste and fruit or vegetables. The
+under-paste may be made of trimmings of puff-paste, or of the paste
+hereafter described, but the top is always made of puff-paste. The paste
+on the top may cover the fruit entirely, or it may be only strips
+running across, according to taste and fancy. The fruit is used raw or
+cooked previously, according to kind; if it requires longer cooking than
+the paste, or if it requires to be mixed or mashed, it must be cooked
+previously.</p>
+
+<p><i>Under-Paste.</i>&mdash;Put one pound of flour on the paste-board with six
+ounces of butter in the middle of it; also two ounces of sugar, two
+eggs, and cold water enough to make an ordinary paste, neither too stiff
+nor too soft. Roll the paste down to a thickness of one-eighth of an
+inch, spread it on a tin dish or bakepan, buttered slightly, raise the
+borders a little or place a strip of puff-paste all around it; put the
+fruit in the middle, then cover with a thin piece of puff-paste or place
+strips of it only over the fruit, and bake in a rather quick oven, about
+390 degrees Fahr. The strips of paste are cut with a paste-cutter
+(caster-like) and placed across; one strip may also be placed all
+around. When trimmings of puff-paste are used for the under-paste, when
+placed on the tin or bake-pan, prick it in about a dozen places with a
+fork to prevent it from rising. To place a border around the paste, you
+have only to cut a strip of it about half an inch wide, wet the paste
+with water by means of a brush, that is, the edge or place where you are
+going to put it; then take hold of the strip, place one end of it on the
+paste and run it all around till you meet the end, cut it off and stick
+the two ends together by wetting them also. When the border is placed,
+then put the fruit in the middle; if the fruit is not cooked, it must be
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_441" id="Page_441">[441]</a></span>
+mixed with sugar and essence, or cinnamon, or nutmeg, according to
+kind, if cooked, that is, stewed, or in <i>compote</i> or in jelly, it is
+sweetened and flavored.</p>
+
+<p>The following are used to make pies: <i>apples</i>, <i>apricots</i>, <i>cherries</i>,
+<i>currants</i>, <i>blackberries</i>, <i>cranberries</i>, <i>gooseberries</i>, <i>grapes</i>,
+<i>mulberries</i>, <i>oranges</i>, <i>peaches</i>, <i>pears</i>, <i>pine-apples</i>, <i>plums</i>,
+<i>quinces</i>, <i>raspberries</i>, <i>lemon</i>, <i>rhubarb</i>, <i>prunes</i>,
+<i>whortleberries</i>, etc. It is better to stone the fruit before using it.
+Pies are decorated in the three following ways:</p>
+
+<p>1. When you use cooked fruit, put a thin layer of rice (prepared as for
+<i>croquettes</i>) on the paste, then a layer of stewed fruit; then the
+strips over, and bake. Two or three layers of each may be used.</p>
+
+<p>2. When baked, spread over the pie some syrup of apples, of pears, or
+syrup for <i>compotes</i>.</p>
+
+<p>3. Just before serving, spread some <i>cr&egrave;me l&eacute;g&egrave;re</i> on the top,
+tastefully and fancifully, by means of a paper funnel, or with the
+pastry-bag.</p>
+
+<p><i>Tarts and Tartelettes.</i>&mdash;These are small pies. Instead of using a tin
+dish or a bakepan, you use small tin moulds, such as for <i>madeleines</i>,
+and proceed exactly as for pies.</p>
+
+<p><i>Mince-Pie.</i>&mdash;Every thing used to make a mince-pie is chopped fine, and
+the spices are used in powder. Prepare paste as directed for meat-pies,
+and make it either with or without mould. Proportions: to three pounds
+of beef add six pounds of beef-suet, one pound of currants, one of
+prunes, one of raisins, and one of apples, the rind of two lemons, two
+ounces of citron, and one pound of any kind of comfited fruit; nutmeg,
+mace, cinnamon, cloves, and sugar to taste; also wine or brandy, or
+both, to taste. Bake in a moderately heated oven. The fruits may be used
+candied or fresh, the apples fresh or dried, it is a matter of taste.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_442" id="Page_442">[442]</a></span>
+Twenty kinds of fruits and meat may be used as well as three or four;
+there are no rules to make a mince-pie, since its compounds are not used
+to be tasted at all separately, but as a whole.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pot-Pie.</i>&mdash;Make a paste with one pound of flour, two ounces of butter,
+two ounces of beef-suet (the latter prepared as directed for
+puff-paste), a little salt and water, enough to make a rather stiff
+paste; roll it down to a thickness of about a quarter of an inch and
+fold it in three and roll down again; repeat the process half a dozen
+times, the last time leaving it rolled down and of the thickness above
+mentioned. Line the sides of a pot with it, lay slices or strips of salt
+pork on the bottom of the pot, then fill it with strips of meat, any and
+every kind (slices of potatoes may be added, if liked); season with
+salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cinnamon; fill with water or broth; cover with
+some of the same paste; cover the pan and boil gently till done. When
+the cover of paste is laid on, make a hole in the centre to let the
+steam out, and to fill up with water or broth if it boils away. Run a
+sharp-pointed knife or a skewer through, to ascertain when done. Serve
+warm. Proceed as above either for butcher's meat, chicken, and other
+domestic fowls, or game.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Puddings</span>.&mdash;Puddings are made of several materials and in a hundred
+different ways. Some are cooked by boiling, others are baked, and some
+are both boiled and baked. Puddings for inhabitants of cities ought to
+be made as light as possible. For persons working outside and at manual
+labor, it does not matter, because their food passes through the system
+in a short time. It is very well known that the poorer class of
+Americans eat too much pudding and pie. Many do it for economy, others
+for convenience. The former are mistaken, and the latter are blamable.
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_443" id="Page_443">[443]</a></span>
+Puddings and pies cost more in the end than meat properly and carefully
+prepared. We do not mean to do away with them entirely, but we advise
+every one to do with puddings as with every thing else, "use, but do not
+abuse." "Pies, cakes, and sweetmeats, are universally known to be
+poisoning to children, and the mothers who give them are conscious that
+they are purchasing the momentary smile of satisfaction at the risk of
+after-sickness, and perhaps of incurable disease."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Peter Parley</span>.</p>
+
+<p>The above needs no commentary; we only recommend it to the consideration
+of young mothers.</p>
+
+<p><i>For Convenience.</i>&mdash;We have taken the trouble to put questions about it
+to over three hundred mothers, wives of mechanics or of employ&eacute;s at a
+comparatively small salary, and we are sorry to say, that more than
+ninety per cent. gave us about the same answer&mdash;they make and cook cakes
+in one day, enough to feed the whole family for three days, to save the
+trouble of cooking every day. We cannot see where the trouble can be for
+a good wife and mother to prepare her husband and children's dinner.</p>
+
+<p>Pudding-eating is an English custom; but, before following a custom of
+another country, people ought to consider if that custom or fashion
+(whatever it is) has not been introduced into that country by necessity,
+which is the case of pudding-eating in England and in some parts of
+Holland.</p>
+
+<p>In England, where the fog is nearly perpetual, the stomach requires to
+be filled with something heavy, something that will stay there till the
+next meal, and very often longer than that.</p>
+
+<p>It is well known that in England farm hands, or other persons working in
+the open air, eat six times a day, and have pudding at least three
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_444" id="Page_444">[444]</a></span>
+times; they drink home-brewed beer, which is very heavy, and very rich
+also. Let anyone here, in this pure, clear atmosphere, eat six times a
+day, have pudding three times, with a pint of home-brewed beer every
+time, and see how he will feel in the evening. We beg all, who may doubt
+our observations, to try the experiment.</p>
+
+<p>Pastry in general, no matter how light it may be made, lies heavier on
+the stomach than any other food, and is very difficult of digestion.
+There are thousands of persons that have never had any indigestion but
+of pastry. Children like pastry very much; this is easily understood; as
+their young stomachs digest very rapidly, they crave food oftener than
+grown persons. Pastry being easier to have at any time than any thing
+else, it is given to them; and from habit in youth arises the liking
+when grown up. The stomach, being accustomed to it from infancy, may
+digest it better, but it is always at the expense of the whole system;
+the stomach must work hard, too hard in digesting it; whence come
+dyspepsia, weakness, and finally consumption, or debility, or any other
+sickness of the same kind.</p>
+
+<p>The cut below represents a pudding (any kind), made in a mould,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_445" id="Page_445">[445]</a></span>
+scalloped, and hollow in the middle; any kind of mould may be used for
+puddings.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0444.jpg" width="420" height="192" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Bread-Pudding.</i>&mdash;Soak half a ten-cent loaf in milk for about an hour,
+and squeeze it with the hands; place the bread in a bowl and mix well
+with it a gill of milk, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one ounce of
+citron, cut rather fine, four ounces of raisins, four ounces of melted
+butter, four yolks of eggs. Then beat the four whites of the eggs to a
+stiff froth and mix them with the rest. Grease a mould well with butter,
+dust it with bread-crumbs, turn the mixture into it, and bake. The mould
+must not be more than about two-thirds full. About 400 degrees Fahr. is
+the proper heat for a bread-pudding. It takes about forty minutes to
+bake. Serve with a sauce for pudding, hot or cold, according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cabinet Pudding.</i>&mdash;A cabinet pudding is made in any kind of a mould and
+of any size, with sponge-cake or lady's fingers. Butter a mould well; if
+the butter is too firm, warm it so as to grease the mould better. Slice
+some citron and cut it in lozenges or of any other shape, according to
+fancy, and place tastefully on the bottom of the mould; place some
+raisins all around also. It is not necessary to cover the bottom with
+them, but have some here and there, imitating flowers, stars, etc. Then
+put over them a layer of sponge-cake, cut in strips of any length and
+about half an inch thick; on this layer place some citron, some comfited
+(candied) fruit of one or several kinds, and all cut in dice, also some
+raisins; then another layer of cake, some more fruit, and so on, till
+the mould is full. After having placed the citron and raisins on the
+bottom, it is not necessary to put the rest in with care or order, but
+merely fill the mould with them and so that they are all mixed up. Set
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_446" id="Page_446">[446]</a></span>
+about a pint of milk on the fire and take it off as soon as it rises.
+Mix well in a bowl three ounces of sugar with three yolks of eggs, then
+turn the milk into the bowl, little by little, stirring and mixing the
+while, and pour the mixture over the cake, fruit, etc., into the mould.
+The above quantities of milk, sugar, and eggs are for a middling-sized
+pudding, and it will be very easy to make more or less, according to the
+size of the pudding. The mixture must be poured over in sprinkling, and
+it must nearly cover the whole within about half an inch. It must not be
+poured too slowly, for, the cake absorbing the liquor pretty fast, you
+would have too much of it if you were filling as directed above; we mean
+filling till the mould is nearly full. Place the mould in a pan of cold
+water so that it is about one-third covered by it, set on the fire, and
+as soon as it boils, place the whole, pan and mould, in an oven at about
+380 degrees Fahr., and bake. For a middling-sized one it takes about one
+hour. When done, place a dish over the mould, turn upside down, remove
+the mould, and serve with a sauce for puddings.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Vermicelli.</i>&mdash;Blanch four ounces of vermicelli, drain and drop it
+in cold water and drain again. While the vermicelli is cooking, put
+about a quart of milk in a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of sugar
+and a piece of lemon-rind, stir now and then to dissolve the sugar, and
+as soon as the milk rises, take it from the fire, remove the lemon, then
+turn the vermicelli into it, put back on the fire, add a tablespoonful
+of butter, stir continually, and when the vermicelli is well cooked,
+take off, mix well with the whole four eggs and sugar to taste. Turn the
+mixture into a well-buttered mould, place it in a pan of boiling water,
+boil slowly for ten minutes, then place as it is, pan and mould, in a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_447" id="Page_447">[447]</a></span>
+moderately-heated oven to finish the cooking. It will take from fifteen
+to twenty minutes. Proceed as above with <i>macaroni</i>, <i>tapioca</i>, etc.</p>
+
+<p><i>Plum-Pudding.</i>&mdash;Break with the hands, in small pieces, about twelve
+ounces of the soft part of good and well-baked bread, not too fresh, but
+not stale, and grate it. Clean twelve ounces of raisins and currants,
+half of each. Cut in small dice four ounces of citron and four ounces of
+candied orange-rind. Chop fine the rind of a lemon. Butter a towel
+slightly and dust it with flour, slightly also. Take twelve ounces of
+good fresh beef-suet, remove the fibres and skin as well as possible,
+and chop it rather fine with three or four ounces of flour, and which
+put in a large bowl. Mix with it seven eggs and half a pound of sugar.
+It is believed by many that brown sugar is better than white, but it is
+only a belief, if not a prejudice. Add and mix again the bread, the
+raisins, and currants, the citron, and orange-rind. Having the whole
+thoroughly mixed, add half a gill of French brandy or Jamaica rum, a
+little salt, the lemon-rind, half a gill of cream or a little milk, and
+a little grated cinnamon. Place the mixture on the towel, and tie it as
+fast as possible, giving it a round shape. Drop the towel in boiling
+water, and boil for from four to five hours. Some boil a plum-pudding as
+long as seven hours. It may also be boiled in a mould for that purpose,
+but it is easier in a towel and quite as good. When taken from the
+water, remove the towel, cut a little piece of the pudding off to make
+it stand better on the dish. The place cut off is generally where the
+towel was tied, being the less smooth. The cut following shows a
+plum-pudding boiled in a towel.</p>
+
+<p>Serve with a sauce for puddings. The sauce may be served in a boat, or
+spread all over the pudding. When served the second day, or cold for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_448" id="Page_448">[448]</a></span>
+supper, it is cut in slices; some Jamaica rum is poured over it, then
+set on fire, basting as long as it burns, and serve. It is generally
+burnt on the table, but the rum may be poured over in the kitchen. The
+cut below represents a whole one with rum around it and on fire.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0448.jpg" width="413" height="158" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Biscottes.</i>&mdash;Put half a pound of flour on the paste-board and make a
+hole in the middle of it; put in the hole four ounces of sugar, one
+ounce of butter, three yolks of eggs, and a few drops of essence to
+flavor the cakes. Mix and knead the whole well with the hand. When like
+dough, roll it under your hands and bring it to a rope-like form of
+about three-quarters of an inch in diameter; cut it in pieces about two
+inches long; roll again with the hand so as to make a ball of each; then
+roll again with both hands so as to give each piece a round, elongated,
+olive shape; that is, smaller at each end than at the middle. Put them
+in a baking-pan, greased with butter; glaze each piece well with egg and
+a little sugar beaten together, then, with a sharp knife, which you dip
+in flour, make a cut on the top and into each cake, lengthwise, about
+three-quarters through, and bake in an oven at 350 degrees Fahr. Serve
+cold. It is an excellent cake for tea as well as for dessert.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Almonds.</i>&mdash;Add to the above mixture one ounce of pounded almonds.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Filberts or Hazel-nuts.</i>&mdash;Add to the mixture for <i>biscottes</i>, one
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_449" id="Page_449">[449]</a></span>
+ounce of filberts or hazel-nuts, pounded well.</p>
+
+<p><i>Brioche.</i>&mdash;Mix together on the paste-board, one pound of flour, six
+eggs, one pound of butter, four ounces of leaven prepared as directed,
+and tepid water enough to make a rather soft dough, then beat well. The
+longer it is beaten the better, and the lighter the <i>brioche</i> will be.
+By beating we mean&mdash;take hold of the dough with the right hand, raise it
+and then throw it with force on the board and in the same place where it
+was; repeat that till it comes off your hand without any of the paste
+sticking to it. Put the mixture in a tin vessel, set it in a warm place
+(about 78&deg; Fahr.) for about two hours to rise, and then put immediately
+on ice to cool. When cold, put it back on the paste-board, cut off about
+one-fourth of it. Make a kind of crown with the larger piece, but not a
+very large one; let the hole in the middle be about three inches in
+diameter. Then give the other piece a rope-like shape, about
+three-quarters of an inch in diameter; place it over the crown, giving
+it the shape of a star, and bake in an oven at 430&deg;. Serve warm, without
+sauce.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 80%;">
+<img src="images/0449.jpg" width="306" height="197" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p><i>Baba.</i>&mdash;Mix together and beat as for a <i>brioche</i>, one pound of flour,
+ten eggs, one pound and a quarter of butter, four ounces of raisins,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_450" id="Page_450">[450]</a></span>
+four ounces of citron, four ounces of leaven, about half a pound of
+different kinds of fruits, preserved in syrup or candied, all cut fine;
+put to rise, let cool, shape, bake and serve as a <i>brioche</i>.</p>
+
+<p>A <i>baba</i> may be baked in a mould; the cut on the previous page
+represents one.</p>
+
+<p><i>Croquignolles.</i>&mdash;Put in a bowl four ounces of flour, a teaspoonful of
+sugar, a pinch of salt, half a pound of butter, four whites of eggs, and
+a few drops of essence; mix the whole well so as to make a very stiff
+paste. Then put the mixture on the paste-board, and roll it in a
+rope-like form about half an inch in diameter; then cut it in pieces
+about half an inch long, glaze with yolk of egg, dust with sugar, and
+bake in a warm but not quick oven. Serve cold at tea.</p>
+
+<p><i>Galette.</i>&mdash;Knead together half a pound of flour, six ounces of butter,
+two eggs, and a pinch of salt; roll it down to a thickness of a quarter
+of an inch, put in a bake-pan in the oven, and when nearly done, take
+off; mix well together one egg with a gill of cream and an ounce of
+butter, while the <i>galette</i> is in the oven, spread the mixture over it,
+put back in the oven, finish the cooking, and serve cold at tea.</p>
+
+<p><i>G&eacute;noises.</i>&mdash;Put in a large bowl six ounces of flour, eight of sugar,
+two eggs, a liquor-glass of brandy or rum, and a few drops of essence;
+mix and stir the whole well for three minutes, then add two more eggs,
+stir and mix one minute longer, add again four eggs and continue
+stirring one minute longer. Melt half a pound of butter in another bowl,
+and mix with it about two tablespoonfuls of the mixture; when, turn into
+the other bowl and mix the whole well together. Butter a bakepan, spread
+the mixture in it, and bake in a rather slow oven (about 300&deg; Fahr.).
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_451" id="Page_451">[451]</a></span>
+When the top is well baked, turn it over and finish it. When cold, cut
+the whole in strips about two inches long, then again across so as to
+make pieces of a lozenge-shape, and serve as it is or with a <i>sauce for
+puddings</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, with Almonds.</i>&mdash;Pound well four or six ounces of sweet
+almonds, place them in the bowl with the rest, and then mix, bake, and
+serve as the above one.</p>
+
+<p>Do the same with <i>bitter almonds</i>, <i>hazel-nuts</i>, <i>peanuts</i>, <i>filberts</i>,
+and <i>raisins</i>; flavor with any kind of essence.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Chocolate.</i>&mdash;When the cake is cut in pieces, glaze it as directed
+for <i>&eacute;clair au chocolat</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>With Sweetmeats.</i>&mdash;When the cake is cut in pieces, with a sharp-pointed
+knife, cut off a part of each piece, on the top and right in the centre,
+so as to make a small hole, which you fill with any kind of sweetmeat or
+with any <i>cream</i>, and then serve. When thus served, they are called
+under several names.</p>
+
+<p><i>Macaroons.</i>&mdash;Throw into boiling water for five minutes ten ounces of
+sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones; skin them well; put in a
+mortar, and pound them to a paste, adding a few drops of the white of
+eggs during the process. Grind well also a pound of white sugar, with
+the quarter of a rind of lemon well grated; then mix well together
+almonds, sugar, and the whites of two eggs. Make balls of any size with
+it; put the balls on a piece of paper, beat the yolk of an egg with half
+a gill of water, and glaze the top of the balls with it by means of a
+brush; put them in a slow oven; it will take about fifteen minutes to
+cook them.</p>
+
+<p><i>Macaroons with Chocolate.</i>&mdash;Melt on a slow fire and in a tin pan three
+ounces of chocolate without sugar (known as Baker's chocolate); then
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_452" id="Page_452">[452]</a></span>
+work it to a thick paste with one pound of pulverized sugar, and three
+whites of eggs. Roll the mixture down to a thickness of about
+one-quarter of an inch; cut it in small round pieces with a
+paste-cutter, either plain or scalloped; butter a pan slightly and dust
+it with flour and sugar, half of each, place the pieces of paste or
+mixture in and bake in a hot but not quick oven. Serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>Madeleines.</i>&mdash;Mix well together in a bowl three ounces of sugar, three
+of flour, and two eggs, then again one ounce of melted butter and a few
+drops of essence to flavor. Butter slightly small tin moulds, dust them
+slightly also with flour and sugar, half of each, turn the mixture in,
+filling the moulds only two-thirds full, and bake in an oven at about
+340&deg;. Serve cold.</p>
+
+<p><i>The same, with Almonds.</i>&mdash;Chop rather fine some sweet almonds, and when
+the mixture is in the moulds as described above, spread the almonds over
+them; bake, and serve as above.</p>
+
+<p>Do the same with <i>hazel-nuts</i>, <i>filberts</i>, <i>peanuts</i>, or <i>raisins</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Meringues or Kisses.</i>&mdash;Put half a pound of pulverized sugar in a plate,
+beat six whites of eggs to a stiff froth as directed, then have somebody
+to sprinkle the half pound of sugar into the eggs, and while you are
+still beating, which must be done in two seconds; stop beating and mix
+gently with a spoon, not by stirring but by turning the whole upside
+down several times. If it is stirred too much, it may turn too liquid.
+Put the mixture in the pastry-bag, with tin tube No. 2 at the end of it;
+spread the mixture on paper in a baking-pan, in oblong cakes about three
+inches long; dust them with pulverized sugar, and put in an oven at from
+220&deg; to 230&deg; Fahr. It requires some time to dry them, about one hour. As
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_453" id="Page_453">[453]</a></span>
+soon as taken from the oven, place one in your left hand, the top
+downward; press gently on the under side which is up, with the first
+finger of the right hand, so as to make a hollow; put in that hollow
+twice as much cream as is necessary to fill it; place another cake
+prepared alike over the cream; so that the two will be united and kept
+together by the cream; do the same with the rest; place them tastefully
+on a dish; dust them with sugar, and serve. They are generally filled
+with <i>whipped cream</i>, but may be filled with <i>cr&egrave;me l&eacute;g&egrave;re</i> or <i>cr&egrave;me
+cuite</i>. They may also be filled with <i>cr&egrave;me Chantilly</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Swiss Meringue.</i>&mdash;Instead of squeezing the mixture out and spreading it
+in oblong cakes, make a crown of it, then another and another, four in
+all, dust and bake in the same way; place them on a dish, one above the
+other, and fill the middle of the dish with cream as above. Serve cold.
+The mixture may also be placed on paper by the spoonful, but they are
+not as sightly as by means of the pastry-bag.</p>
+
+<p><i>Zephyrs.</i>&mdash;Proceed as for meringues as far as mixing the sugar with the
+whites of eggs, when mix also with both a few drops of cochineal. Put
+the mixture in the pastry-bag, with tin tube No. 1 at the end of it.
+Squeeze the mixture out and spread it on paper in a baking-pan, in
+different shapes: dentilated, convoluted, overlapping, waved, etc.,
+according to fancy, about three inches and a half long. Bake in same
+oven as meringues, and serve when cold, as they are.</p>
+
+<p><i>Nougat.</i>&mdash;Throw a pound of sweet almonds into boiling water for five
+minutes; skin them well, and when cool cut them in four or five pieces
+lengthwise; then melt a pound of fine white sugar with two spoonfuls of
+water, in a copper or crockery pan, and on a good fire, stirring all
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_454" id="Page_454">[454]</a></span>
+the time with a wooden spoon; when well melted, put the almonds in;
+keep stirring about five minutes longer, take from the fire, add a
+little of the rind of a lemon well grated, oil the mould, put it on the
+corner of the range in a warm but not too hot place; put the almonds and
+sugar in the mould, and little by little take off when of a brown color,
+turn on a plate, remove the mould, and serve.</p>
+
+<p><i>Pancakes.</i>&mdash;Make a thin paste with one pound of flour, four eggs, two
+tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, one of French brandy, a little salt, the
+necessary quantity of lukewarm water and milk, about half of each; let
+it remain thus two or three hours at least; then put about an ounce of
+lard, butter, or oil in a frying-pan, and set it on a brisk fire; when
+hot, put some of the paste in it with a ladle, spread the paste so as to
+cover the bottom of the pan; fry on both sides, place it on a dish, dust
+it with fine white sugar on both sides, and serve warm.</p>
+
+<p>Buckwheat and other pancakes are made in the same way.</p>
+
+<p><i>Waffles.</i>&mdash;Make a thin paste with eight ounces of flour, six ounces of
+pulverized sugar, two eggs, a few drops of essence to flavor, half a
+liquor-glass of brandy or rum, and milk. Warm and butter both sides of
+the mould, put some of the paste into it, close it gently, set it on the
+fire, turn over to heat both sides equally, dust them with sugar when
+done, and serve either warm or cold. It takes hardly a minute for each
+with a good fire.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BREAD.</h4>
+
+<p>It is next to an impossibility to bake bread in a small oven; half the
+time the bread is too much or not enough baked. In cities, where good
+baker's bread can be bought, it comes as cheap as it can be made at
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_455" id="Page_455">[455]</a></span>
+home, if not cheaper, and saves a great deal of time and labor. It is
+not difficult to make good bread with good flour. There are several ways
+of making and of using yeast. Some are better than others; but many,
+though differently manipulated, bring about the same results. The only
+difficulty is the baking of it. Bakers can almost always bake bread
+properly, having large brick ovens. If they do not bake their bread
+enough, which is generally the case, it is not because they cannot, but
+because under-baked bread is heavier, and people, especially the poorer
+class, buy it in preference to the other; judging by the weight, they
+think they have more of it for a certain sum of money. Under-baked bread
+is difficult of digestion. (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Food</span>.)</p>
+
+<p>The best bread is made with the best wheat-flour, all that can be said
+by anybody to the contrary notwithstanding. Rye, corn, and barley bread
+are excellent, and may be partaken of by those whose constitution,
+occupation, etc., allow it. In every thing, bread included, the people,
+or what may be called "the million," are wiser than <i>soi-disant</i>
+philosophers; and if oat-meal or Indian-meal were better than
+wheat-flour, they would be dearer. To describe or discuss the
+innumerable methods of making bread would require several volumes. We
+have perused carefully hundreds of them; they nearly all differ
+theoretically, but practically, when practical (which is not always the
+case), they amount to about the same thing. We think that the only
+difficulty, if difficulty there be, is in the use of the yeast, the
+making of the same, and the baking. Chemical processes for rising will
+never equal the processes of nature and time. Many bakers do not use the
+yeast properly, their bread being sour or musty; some sweeten their
+bread, to disguise an inferior quality of flour, or as an antidote to
+sourness or mustiness.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_456" id="Page_456">[456]</a></span>
+<p>Bread gets dry after a while, and is inferior in quality and taste. The
+lighter the bread the better, although many do not think so. The belief
+may come from the fact that the lighter bread is the more porous, and
+therefore the quicker it evaporates and loses its taste. Warm bread,
+besides being injurious to the teeth, is difficult of digestion. When
+perfectly cold, let it stand in a dry place, neither cold nor warm, for
+one or two hours, and use. We give below the best methods of making
+bread&mdash;French bread, or rather good light bread, for we do not see that
+it is more French than Chinese or American, as long as it can be made
+everywhere with good flour; it is certainly the best for inhabitants of
+a large city, and especially for those having a sedentary occupation.
+Let us apply the proverb to bread as well as to every thing else: "Feed
+me with food convenient for me."&mdash;<i>Bible.</i></p>
+
+<p>Mix well together one gill of good strong yeast with half a pound of
+flour, so that it makes a rather stiff paste. Knead so that you shape it
+like a ball. Make two cuts with a knife on the top, across and about
+one-quarter of an inch deep; then place the paste in a bowl of tepid
+water (milk-warm), the cuts upward. After it has been in the water for a
+few minutes it will float and swell; let it float about two minutes,
+when take off and use. Put six ounces of flour on the paste-board, and
+make a hole in the middle; put into it the yeast prepared as above,
+tepid water enough to make an ordinary dough, and salt to taste. Knead
+well, shape according to fancy, put in a warm place (about 78 deg.
+Fahr.) to rise, and bake. It requires about six hours to rise.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Wash and clean thoroughly half a pound of potatoes, and then
+steam them with the skins on. Mash them well with half a pint of flour,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_457" id="Page_457">[457]</a></span>
+about half a pint of tepid water, and half an ounce of salt. When
+thoroughly mixed, put away in a warm place (about 78 deg. Fahr.) for one
+hour. Then add and mix with it half a pint of good yeast, and put away
+in the same place for about nine hours. It may take a little longer than
+nine hours or a little less, but it is very easy to know, and in this
+way: after a while it will rise slowly and gradually for some time, and
+then begin to fall; as soon as it begins to fall, mix a little tepid
+water with it and strain through a sieve; throw away potato skins and
+eyes; mix what is strained with two pounds of flour and tepid water
+enough to make an ordinary dough. Put it away again in the same place
+until it cracks on the top, which will take place in about an hour. Then
+put six pounds of flour on the paste-board, and make a hole in the
+middle; put into it a little tepid water and the dough when cracked;
+knead the whole well with water enough to make an ordinary dough, salt
+to taste. To knead it well, it is necessary to raise the dough or part
+of it, and then throw it back on the paste-board with force. The more
+the dough is kneaded, the better and lighter the bread. Then shape the
+loaves, let rise, and bake in a very quick oven.</p>
+
+<p><i>To shape.</i>&mdash;Divide the dough, as soon as kneaded, in as many parts as
+you wish to make loaves; then knead each part, one after another, so as
+to make a kind of ball; then, by rolling and pulling it, give it an
+elongated, sausage-like shape. A pound loaf can be made a foot and a
+half long, as well as four inches; it will only be narrower and thinner,
+and will have more crust. When the dough is thus elongated, take a round
+stick or a small rolling-pin, place it on the top of the dough, right on
+the middle, lengthwise, and then press on it and roll just a little, to
+and fro, so as to make a kind of furrow in the middle. Have a towel
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_458" id="Page_458">[458]</a></span>
+well dusted with flour, place the dough on it upside down, that is, the
+furrowed side under; let rise as ordinary bread; turn it into a pan, but
+so that the furrowed side will be up (the side that was down in rising
+must be up in baking); dust the furrow well with rye-flour to prevent
+the paste from closing, so that the top of the loaf will be concave
+instead of convex when baked.</p>
+
+<p><i>Another.</i>&mdash;Steam half a pound of potatoes and mash them well; then mix
+them immediately and while hot with about a pint of flour, a quart of
+water, and half a pint of good strong yeast. Leave the mixture six hours
+in a rather warm place, then strain through a sieve, pressing the
+potato-skins so as to squeeze all the liquid out of them. Immediately
+add to the strained mixture flour enough to make ordinary dough, which
+you knead a little, and let stand as it is from one to two hours and a
+half, according to temperature. Knead then with it about six pounds of
+flour, salt to taste, and tepid water to make ordinary dough, and leave
+it thus two hours, then shape in the same way as the above; put it to
+rise in the same way also (it will take from one to two hours, according
+to temperature); dust with rye-flour, and bake.</p>
+
+<p>French bread may be shaped like other bread, round or square; it is just
+as good.</p>
+
+<p>Rolls, or rather French rolls as they are generally called, are made,
+shaped, and baked in the same way.</p>
+
+<p>It is a mistake to call <i>bread</i> certain mixtures of flour, soda, and
+milk; or flour, milk, and butter, etc.; it is no more bread than a
+mixture of carbonic acid, water, alcohol, molasses, vitriol, etc., is
+wine. No one can give a name to such a mixture except chemists.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_459" id="Page_459">[459]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="BILLS" id="BILLS"></a>BILLS OF FARE.</h2>
+
+
+<p><i>Dinner-Time.</i>&mdash;On account of the various occupations of members of the
+same family, this is often the first and only time of the day that sees
+them all assembled. It is the dinner that mostly supplies the waste that
+the system has undergone for twenty-four hours. Being taken after the
+day's work is over, it gives to the stomach time to digest (mind and
+stomach never working at the same time). (<i>See</i> <span class="smcap">Food, Economy, Coffee,
+and Tea</span>.)</p>
+
+<p>The dinner, being the most substantial meal of the day, requires more
+preparation than any other meal; the bill of fare of it should,
+therefore, be made the day before, or at least early in the morning. It
+should always be made between the mistress or master of the house and
+the cook; written and hung in the kitchen, near the clock. The first
+thing to put down is what may be left from the preceding day, and also
+what may be in the larder; then what is wanted in butcher's meat or
+poultry, or both; the fish or game, or both, and which, with vegetables,
+are according to the market. It is then one of the duties of the cook to
+make a list of what is wanted as accessories; such as flour, eggs,
+sugar, spices, etc.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_460" id="Page_460">[460]</a></span>
+<p>Besides the above, it is also the duty of the cook to send the dishes to
+the table in their regular order; for, if the whole dinner is sent at
+once, all the dishes have to be eaten at once also, else the last get
+cold and are unpalatable, or, by mixing them, they are rendered
+tasteless, as the flavor of one neutralizes (if it does not destroy) the
+taste of another.</p>
+
+<p>To make models of bills of fare is not difficult, but to follow them is
+nearly impossible; hardly one in a hundred would suit any one.</p>
+
+<p>Bills of fare vary according to the season of the year, and therefore to
+the produce in the market.</p>
+
+<p>We will try to give another, and we think a better way of making them to
+suit everybody, every purse, and at any time.</p>
+
+<p>A dinner, no matter how grand, is composed of three courses, and seven
+kinds of dishes.</p>
+
+<p>The first course comprises dishes of four kinds, viz.: potages,
+<i>hors-d'oeuvres</i>, <i>relev&eacute;s</i>, <i>and entr&eacute;es</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The second course comprises dishes of two kinds, viz.: <i>r&ocirc;ts</i> and
+<i>entremets</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The third course comprises dishes of one kind, the dessert.</p>
+
+<p>The number of dishes of each kind is generally according to the number
+of guests.</p>
+
+<p>It may also be according to the importance of the occasion for which the
+dinner is given; to the honor the giver or givers wish to show the
+personage or personages invited; to the amount of money they are willing
+to spend, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The following table shows how many dishes of each kind are to be served
+at dinner to a certain number of persons:</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_461" id="Page_461">[461]</a></span>
+<table summary="Bill_Fare" width="100%">
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">For..</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+<td class="tdr">20</td>
+<td class="tdr">30</td>
+<td class="tdr">40</td>
+<td class="tdr">50</td>
+<td class="tdr">60</td>
+<td class="tdr">80</td>
+<td class="tdr">100</td>
+<td class="tdl">Persons.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">Serve</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdl">Potages.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+<td class="tdr">10</td>
+<td class="tdr">12</td>
+<td class="tdr">12</td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+<td class="tdl">Hors-d'oeuvres.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdl">Relev&eacute;s of fish.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; "&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; of meat.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">12</td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+<td class="tdl">Entr&eacute;es.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdl">R&ocirc;ts.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">1</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdl">Salads of greens.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">12</td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+<td class="tdl">Entremets.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdl">Large side pieces of Relev&eacute;s &amp; Entr&eacute;es.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr"></td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">2</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">6</td>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; cakes.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="tdl">&nbsp; &nbsp; "</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">4</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">8</td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+<td class="tdr">16</td>
+<td class="tdr">24</td>
+<td class="tdr">32</td>
+<td class="tdr">36</td>
+<td class="tdl">Plates of Dessert.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>
+The above table shows the number of dishes, but more than one dish of
+the same kind can be served; for instance, four kinds of potages,
+<i>relev&eacute;s</i>, etc., are served for forty; but two or four dishes of each
+kind can be served.</p>
+
+<p>The size of the <i>relev&eacute;s</i> and <i>r&ocirc;ts</i> should be according to the number
+of guests.</p>
+
+<p>It is just as easy to select dishes for a small family-dinner as for a
+grand one; two, three, four, or more dishes can be selected; for
+instance, you select a potage, an <i>entr&eacute;e</i> or <i>r&ocirc;t</i>, or both, one
+vegetable or a sweet dish, or both; and one or as many plates of dessert
+as you please.</p>
+
+<p>Have a bouquet on the middle of the table, if possible, or at least a
+basket of fruit. Flowers during dinner have the same effect as music
+after it; they soften the manners, and gently and sweetly gratify the
+senses.</p>
+
+<p>To simplify and render the making of bills of fare easy, we have divided
+the different dishes into seven parts, each part being in the order the
+dishes of which must be served, and representing the seven kinds of
+dishes composing a dinner. By this means you select the dish or dishes
+which suit you, and which you can procure in any or all of the seven
+parts, and your bill of fare is made, and more to your liking than any
+steward on earth can do.</p>
+
+<p><i>Order of dishes.</i>&mdash;1. <i>Potages</i>. 2. <i>hors-d'oeuvres</i>. 3. <i>Relev&eacute;s</i>: of
+fish, and then of meat. 4. <i>Entr&eacute;es</i>: beef, mutton, lamb, veal, fish,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_462" id="Page_462">[462]</a></span>
+poultry, and game last. 5. <i>R&ocirc;ts</i>: of meat, and then of fish. 6.
+<i>Entremets</i>: salads of greens, vegetables, eggs, macaroni, sweet dishes,
+and cakes. 7. <i>Dessert</i>: cheese the first.</p>
+
+<p><i>First part</i>, or <i>Potages</i>.&mdash;Any kind coming under the head of potages
+or soups.</p>
+
+<p><i>Second part</i>, or <i>hors-d'oeuvres</i>.&mdash;These are small dishes placed on
+the table as soon as the soup-dish is removed or even before, and which
+are removed just before serving the sweet dishes of the <i>entremets</i>.
+They are passed round after every dish, on account of being considered
+more as appetizers, as repairers of the natural waste of animal life.
+Very little of them is partaken of at a time; they are <i>anchovies</i>;
+<i>artichockes</i>, raw; pickled <i>beets</i>; <i>butter</i>; <i>caviare</i>; <i>cervelas</i>;
+raw <i>cucumbers</i>; <i>figs</i>; every kind of <i>fish</i>, salted, smoked, pickled,
+or preserved in oil; every kind of <i>pickled fruit</i>; <i>horse-radish</i>;
+<i>horse-radish butter</i>; <i>melons</i>; broiled <i>mushrooms</i>; <i>olives</i>; raw and
+pickled <i>oysters</i>; steamed <i>potatoes</i> served with butter; <i>radishes</i> and
+butter; <i>sardines</i>; <i>saucissons</i>; <i>sausages</i>, salt and smoked, but not
+fresh; salted and smoked <i>tongue</i>; <i>tunny</i>, <i>walnuts</i> in salad.</p>
+
+<p><i>Third part</i>, or <i>Relev&eacute;s</i>.&mdash;<i>Relev&eacute;s</i> are composed of fish and large
+pieces of meat. A fish served whole is always a <i>relev&eacute;</i>; in pieces, it
+is an <i>entr&eacute;e</i>. Pieces of <i>beef</i>, <i>mutton</i>, and <i>pork</i>, roasted, are
+always served as <i>relev&eacute;s</i>. At a family dinner the <i>relev&eacute;</i> is almost
+always a fish. The other pieces of meat that are served as <i>relev&eacute;s</i>
+are: <i>bear</i>, <i>buffalo</i>, boiled and corned <i>beef</i>, <i>leg</i> and <i>saddle</i> of
+mutton, <i>quarters</i> of lamb, large pieces of <i>veal</i>; also all
+<i>vol-au-vent</i> of meat and of fish, <i>bouche&eacute;s</i> and <i>fish-pies</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fourth part</i>, or <i>Entr&eacute;es</i>.&mdash;These comprise every dish of meat, except
+poultry and game, when roasted; every dish of <i>fish</i> not served whole;
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_463" id="Page_463">[463]</a></span>
+also <i>p&acirc;t&eacute;s de foies gras</i>, <i>sour-krout</i>, <i>snails</i>, <i>meat-pies</i>,
+<i>terrines</i>, <i>pains</i> of game and of poultry. The dishes of <i>meat</i>
+mentioned in the <i>relev&eacute;s</i> may be served as entr&eacute;es at a family dinner.
+The order of the dishes is described above.</p>
+
+<p><i>Fifth part</i>, or <i>R&ocirc;ts</i>.&mdash;<i>Poultry</i>, <i>game</i>, and <i>fish</i>. At a family
+dinner, <i>lamb</i> and <i>veal</i> are often served as roasted pieces, especially
+at seasons when there is no game, and poultry is scarce.</p>
+
+<p><i>Sixth part</i>, or <i>Entremets</i>.&mdash;The following are served as <i>entremets</i>:
+all <i>salads</i> of greens; all dishes of <i>vegetables</i>, of <i>omelets</i>, except
+four, viz., with bacon, salt pork, ham, and kidneys. Also dishes of
+<i>macaroni</i>, of <i>rice</i>, <i>eggs &agrave; la neige</i>, all <i>sweet dishes</i> (sweet
+dishes are also served as <i>dessert</i>), and <i>cakes</i>; such as <i>baba</i>,
+<i>brioche</i>, <i>g&eacute;noises</i>, <i>madeleines</i>, <i>savarin</i>, and sponge-cake.</p>
+
+<p><i>Seventh part</i>, or <i>Dessert</i>.&mdash;The dessert comprises ripe <i>fruit</i>,
+<i>sweet dishes</i> (these are also served as <i>entremets</i>, according to
+taste), <i>pastry</i> (except meat-pies, <i>terrines</i>, and <i>pains</i>), <i>salads</i>
+of fruits, and cheese. The latter is always served the first (<i>see</i>
+<span class="smcap">Cheese</span>). After cheese, there is no rule for serving the other plates of
+dessert; it is according to each one's taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Punch</i> is served after the <i>entr&eacute;es</i> or after the <i>relev&eacute;s</i> of fish,
+according to taste.</p>
+
+<p><i>Early Breakfast</i>.&mdash;We are of opinion that everybody ought to eat as
+little meat as possible, and drink no wine, beer, or any other liquor at
+an early breakfast, no matter what the sex or age may be, except when
+prescribed by the physician in case of sickness, debility, etc. The food
+may be selected from the following: <i>bread</i> and <i>butter</i>, <i>eggs</i>,
+<i>omelets</i>, fried <i>fish</i>, fried <i>vegetables</i>, <i>sardines</i>, and <i>fruit</i>,
+according to the season.</p>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_464" id="Page_464">[464]</a></span>
+<p>As for meat, in case it should be eaten, it ought to be cold, such as
+fowl or veal, cooked the day before.</p>
+
+<p>Muffins, and other cakes or pastes, served warm, are very bad for the
+stomach and teeth.</p>
+
+<p>The beverage ought to be either coffee, with milk, chocolate, cocoa,
+choca, or cold water, but do not by any means drink tea at breakfast; it
+is too astringent.</p>
+
+<p>Although cold meat is not by far so injurious as warm meat for
+breakfast, it ought, nevertheless, to be as little partaken of as
+possible, and especially by the young.</p>
+
+<p><i>Late Breakfast, Lunch, Tea, and early Supper</i>.&mdash;At these meals the
+following dishes may be served:</p>
+
+<p>Every dish served as a <i>hors-d'oeuvre</i>, <i>calf's</i> head and feet, bear
+<i>hams</i>, <i>head-cheese</i>, <i>eggs</i> cooked in any way, <i>omelets</i>, <i>mutton</i>
+chops, <i>veal</i> cutlets, fried <i>fish</i>, ripe <i>fruit</i>, boned <i>birds</i>, <i>ham</i>,
+cold <i>meat</i> of any kind, <i>oysters</i>, <i>p&acirc;t&eacute; de foies gras</i>, <i>salads</i> of
+chicken, or any other birds, and of lobster, <i>sandwiches</i>, <i>sardines</i>,
+fried <i>vegetables</i>, <i>sweet dishes</i>, and <i>pastry</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>Late Supper</i>.&mdash;This being the last meal taken before retiring, persons
+should be careful about what they eat then, especially those who take no
+bodily exercise, or retire soon after it. Some are not aware that their
+rest depends nearly, if not entirely, on what they have eaten at supper.
+The lighter the food the better; such as fried <i>fish</i>, <i>sardines</i>, <i>lait
+de poule</i>, <i>bavaroise</i>, well-ripened <i>fruit</i>, a <i>cream</i>, a little <i>iced
+fruit</i>, <i>fruit-jelly</i>, <i>prunes</i>, etc.</p>
+
+<p>The gastronomical or hygienic rule to be observed in eating, it will be
+seen, is therefore, after the soup and <i>hors-d'oeuvres</i>, to commence
+with the heaviest or most substantial dishes, and to finish with the
+lightest. The rule is just the opposite for wines. Here we must commence
+with the lightest, and end with those which contain the most alcohol,
+and are consequently the heaviest.</p>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_465" id="Page_465">[465]</a></span>
+<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2>
+
+<p>
+Allumettes, <a href="#Page_413">413</a>.<br />
+Almonds, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.<br />
+Anchovy, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">butter, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cake, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salad, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</span><br />
+Anise, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.<br />
+Apples, au beurre, <a href="#Page_378">378</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">charlotte, <a href="#Page_379">379</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dumplings, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flambantes, <a href="#Page_378">378</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_400">400</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meringu&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_379">379</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">syrup, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in compote, or stewed, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;" &nbsp;fritters, <a href="#Page_379">379</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;" &nbsp;jelly, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pine-apple, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with rice, <a href="#Page_374">374</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;sweetmeats, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</span><br />
+Apricots, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in compote, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;" &nbsp;jelly 406.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;" &nbsp;salad, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+Artichokes, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Jerusalem), <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</span><br />
+Asparagus, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">en petits pois, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in omelet, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with cream, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;vinaigrette, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;white sauce, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.</span><br />
+Aspic, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Baba, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.<br />
+Bacon, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.<br />
+Bain-marie, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.<br />
+Bakepans, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.<br />
+Baking, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.<br />
+Bananas, <a href="#Page_393">393</a>.<br />
+Barley, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lemonade, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sugar, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.</span><br />
+Bass, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.<br />
+Batter, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.<br />
+Bavaroise, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.<br />
+Bay-leaf, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.<br />
+Beans (string), <a href="#Page_308">308</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au jus, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with onions, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pickled, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(Lima), <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au jus, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(dry), <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with ham, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;mutton, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;salt pork, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>.</span><br />
+Bear-meat, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ham, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</span><br />
+Beef, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la mode, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in daube, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with garnitures, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">decorated, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fillet larded, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with mushrooms, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;truffles, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;potatoes, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;tomatoes, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;quenelles, <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp;Madeira sauce, etc., <a href="#Page_169">169</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">en bellevue, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ribs, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with mushrooms, etc., <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steaks, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steaks with potatoes, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; water-cress, etc., <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; mushrooms, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; truffles, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">saut&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">fancy, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tenderloin, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">low cuts, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled or cold, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">hashed, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">in croquettes, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&nbsp;"&nbsp; miroton, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&nbsp;"&nbsp; salad, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">au gratin, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with vegetables, etc., <a href="#Page_175">175</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">corned, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">en bellevue, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brain, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">heart, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">kidneys, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">liver, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tail, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tongue, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">(smoked), <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with sauces, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">in hors-d'oeuvre, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&nbsp;"&nbsp; bellevue, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tripe, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">poulette, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">pickled, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.</span><br />
+Beets, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pickled, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</span><br />
+Beignets souffl&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_422">422</a>.<br />
+Berries, iced, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with milk, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp; liquor, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+Bichof, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>.<br />
+Bills of fare, <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.<br />
+Birds, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</span><br />
+Biscottes, <a href="#Page_448">448</a>.<br />
+Biscuits, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">almonds, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chocolate, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with filberts, etc., <a href="#Page_427">427</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vanilla, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of Rheims, <a href="#Page_427">427</a>.</span><br />
+Blackberries, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in compote, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"&nbsp; jelly, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>.</span><br />
+Black-birds, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.<br />
+Black-fish, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br />
+Blanc-mange, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.<br />
+Blanc-manger, <a href="#Page_381">381</a>.<br />
+Blanch, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>.<br />
+Blanquette, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.<br />
+Blue-fish, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br />
+Bobolink, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>.<br />
+Boiling, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.<br />
+Boned turkey, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.<br />
+Border of paste, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; rice, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>.</span><br />
+Bouch&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of fish, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;"&nbsp; birds, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;"&nbsp; oysters, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;"&nbsp; lobster, etc., <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.</span><br />
+Boulettes, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.<br />
+Bouquet, <a href="#Page_461">461</a>.<br />
+Brain, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.<br />
+Braising, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.<br />
+Bread, <a href="#Page_454">454-458</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crumbs, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">farce, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pudding, <a href="#Page_445">445</a>.</span><br />
+Breakfast, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.<br />
+Brioche, <a href="#Page_449">449</a>.<br />
+Broccoli, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.<br />
+Broiling, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.<br />
+Broth, <a href="#Page_61">61-70</a>.<br />
+Brown-butter, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.<br />
+Buffalo, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steaks, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>.</span><br />
+Buckwheat cakes, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.<br />
+Bunch of seasonings, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.<br />
+Burnt sugar, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.<br />
+Butter, <a href="#Page_409">409</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">anchovy, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lobster, etc., <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">melted, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scented, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</span><br />
+Buttered paper, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Cabbage, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la cr&egrave;me, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with apples, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp; "&nbsp;  bacon, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">garniture, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"&nbsp; sour-krout, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pickled, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">red, <a href="#Page_314">314</a>.</span><br />
+Cabinet pudding, <a href="#Page_445">445</a>.<br />
+Caf&eacute; au lait, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">noir, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.</span><br />
+Cake, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">almond, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apple, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">corn, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cream, <a href="#Page_423">423</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">currant, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">filbert, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fourr&eacute;, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hazel-nut, etc., <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hard, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">heavy, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Madeleine, <a href="#Page_452">452</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Milanais, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Nantais, <a href="#Page_428">428</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pithiviers, <a href="#Page_415">415</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plum, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pound, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rice, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saint Honor&eacute;, <a href="#Page_423">423</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Savarin, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">short, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sponge, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tea, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Viennois, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with jelly, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</span><br />
+Calf's brain, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ears, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">feet, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" jelly, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">head, <a href="#Page_216">216</a>, <a href="#Page_217">217</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">en tortue, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">soup, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">heart, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">kidneys, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lights, <a href="#Page_220">220</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">liver, <a href="#Page_221">221</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pluck, <a href="#Page_222">222</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sweetbreads, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">in vol-au-vent, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tail, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tongue, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.</span><br />
+Candied fruit, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.<br />
+Capon, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.<br />
+Caramel, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.<br />
+Cardoon, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.<br />
+Carp, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br />
+Carrots, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">B&eacute;chamel, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fines herbes, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au jus, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">poulette, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with sugar, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;" soup, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</span><br />
+Catsup, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mushroom, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomato, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.</span><br />
+Cauliflowers, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">B&eacute;chamel, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gratin, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">white sauce, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with cream, etc., <a href="#Page_319">319</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pickled, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</span><br />
+Caviare, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.<br />
+Celery, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;" pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>.</span><br />
+Cervelas, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.<br />
+Charlotte of fruit, <a href="#Page_383">383</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fran&ccedil;aise, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Polonaise, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Russe, <a href="#Page_381">381</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Italienne, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la Chantilly, <a href="#Page_382">382</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apple, <a href="#Page_379">379</a>.</span><br />
+Chartreuse, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.<br />
+Cheese, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la cr&egrave;me, <a href="#Page_383">383</a>.</span><br />
+Cherries in brandy, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">compote, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_396">396</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>.</span><br />
+Chervil, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.<br />
+Chestnuts, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">candied, <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_396">396</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in compote, <a href="#Page_387">387</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;" pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</span><br />
+Chiccory, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(wild), <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</span><br />
+Chicken, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to truss, etc., <a href="#Page_238">238-241</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boned, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with sauce, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">croquettes, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fricass&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">supr&egrave;me, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">financi&egrave;re, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fran&ccedil;aise, etc., <a href="#Page_246">246</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Marengo, etc., <a href="#Page_248">248</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with sauce, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp;garniture, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">decorated, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">saut&eacute;, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with Champagne, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in pie,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp;" pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vol-au-vent, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broth, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</span><br />
+Choca, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.<br />
+Chocolate, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</span><br />
+Choux, <a href="#Page_423">423</a>.<br />
+Chowder, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.<br />
+Clams, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chowder, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">soup, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</span><br />
+Cochineal, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.<br />
+Cocoa, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.<br />
+Cocoa-nut, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.<br />
+Cod-fish, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(salt), <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>.</span><br />
+Coffee, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</span><br />
+Colander, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.<br />
+Cold weather, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>.<br />
+Colored beans, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>.<br />
+Compotes, <a href="#Page_384">384</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apples, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cherries, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">oranges, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">berries, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">peaches, etc., <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">syrup, <a href="#Page_384">384</a>.</span><br />
+Contents, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>.<br />
+Cooking, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>.<br />
+Corn (sweet), <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">cake, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.</span><br />
+Corn-salad, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.<br />
+Corn-starch, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.<br />
+Consomm&eacute;, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.<br />
+Caulis of fish, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">veal, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</span><br />
+Courses, <a href="#Page_460">460</a>.<br />
+Crabs, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.<br />
+Cranberries, <a href="#Page_387">387</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">compote, <a href="#Page_387">387</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.</span><br />
+Craw-fish, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.<br />
+Cream, <a href="#Page_387">387</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sweet, <a href="#Page_392">392</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cheese, <a href="#Page_383">383</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au caf&eacute;, <a href="#Page_388">388</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chantilly, <a href="#Page_392">392</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">caramel, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chocolate, <a href="#Page_389">389</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cuite, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">essence, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">frangipane, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ice, <a href="#Page_392">392</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">l&eacute;g&egrave;re, <a href="#Page_391">391</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lemon, <a href="#Page_387">387</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">orange 390.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">patissi&egrave;re, <a href="#Page_391">391</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">renvers&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_391">391</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tea, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vanilla, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">whipped, <a href="#Page_392">392</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cakes, <a href="#Page_423">423</a>.</span><br />
+Croque en bouche, <a href="#Page_394">394</a>.<br />
+Croquettes of veal, etc., <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chicken, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">potato, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rice, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>.</span><br />
+Croquignolles, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>.<br />
+Croutons, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.<br />
+Crullers, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.<br />
+Crumbs, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">white, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</span><br />
+Cucumbers, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in hors-d'oeuvre, <a href="#Page_322">322</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pickled, <a href="#Page_355">355</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_322">322</a>.</span><br />
+Currants,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">compote, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">jelly, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salad, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(dried), <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.</span><br />
+Curry, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.<br />
+Custard, <a href="#Page_393">393</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Dandelion, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</span><br />
+Dessert, <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.<br />
+Dining-room, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.<br />
+Dinner, <a href="#Page_459">459</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">directions, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>.</span><br />
+Dish, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.<br />
+Dishes (order of), <a href="#Page_461">461</a>.<br />
+Divers receipts, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.<br />
+Doughnuts, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.<br />
+Draining, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>.<br />
+Drinking, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.<br />
+Duck, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apple sauce, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cranberry sauce, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with turnips, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"&nbsp; &nbsp;  currant-jelly, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"&nbsp; &nbsp;  garniture, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">saut&eacute;, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with peas, etc., <a href="#Page_266">266</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boned, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold in salmis, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">&nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp;croquettes, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">&nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp;salad, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</span><br />
+Duckling, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.<br />
+Dust, to, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Ears, <a href="#Page_215">215</a>.<br />
+Eclairs, <a href="#Page_424">424</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au caf&eacute;, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" chocolate, <a href="#Page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" tea, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" vanilla, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" currants, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" strawberries, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" jellies, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" essence, <a href="#Page_425">425</a>.</span><br />
+Economy, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>.<br />
+Eels, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in matelote, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in vol-au-vent, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</span><br />
+Eggs, <a href="#Page_356">356</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beater, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crumbs to fry, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">whites (to beat), <a href="#Page_363">363</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">B&eacute;chamel, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au gratin, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la tripe, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"&nbsp; &nbsp;neige, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">poached, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scrambled, <a href="#Page_360">360</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lyonnaise, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sur le plat, etc., <a href="#Page_360">360</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in matelote, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fricass&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with vegetables, <a href="#Page_359">359</a>, <a href="#Page_361">361</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; cheese, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; ham, etc., <a href="#Page_359">359</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; fines herbes, <a href="#Page_357">357</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; sauces, <a href="#Page_358">358</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">garniture, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Egg-plant, <a href="#Page_323">323</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Endive, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</span><br />
+Entr&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_462">462</a>.<br />
+Entremets, <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.<br />
+Epigramme, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.<br />
+Errors in cooking, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.<br />
+Escalops, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.<br />
+Essence of beef, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spinach, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Fanchonnettes, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>.<br />
+Fans, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>.<br />
+Farces, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bread, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cabbage, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">combs, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">croutons, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">duxelle, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">egg, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">financi&egrave;re, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">liver, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mac&eacute;doine, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mushroom, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">onion, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">quenelles, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salpicon, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">truffles, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</span><br />
+Fat (chicken, etc.), <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to clarify, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for frying, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</span><br />
+Fecula, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.<br />
+Fennel, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.<br />
+Feuillet&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_413">413</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la Cond&eacute;, <a href="#Page_414">414</a>.</span><br />
+Figs, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.<br />
+Fillet, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.<br />
+Fines herbes, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.<br />
+Fish, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to keep, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">quality, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to select, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" clean for boiling, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;baking, etc., <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">same species, <a href="#Page_125">125</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to know when cooked enough, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" improve, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" bone, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" skin, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" decorate, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">kettle, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">balls, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la Orly, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">saut&eacute;, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la cr&egrave;me, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">anchovy butter, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; sauce, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">B&eacute;chamel, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bordelaise, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bretonne, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">caper-sauce, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">court-bouillon, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cream-sauce, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">egg-sauce, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fines-herbes sauce, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gen&egrave;voise-sauce, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">genoise-sauce, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gratin-sauce, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hollandaise sauce, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Italienne sauce, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel sauce, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">matelote sauce, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">piquante, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">poivrade, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">r&eacute;molade, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tartar, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomato, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vinaigrette, <a href="#Page_134">134-136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bass, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">black-fish, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blue-fish, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cod, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" (salt), <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">eels, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flounder, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">haddock, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">halibut, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">herring, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" (salt), <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mackerel, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"  (salt), <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pike, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">porgy, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ray, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salmon, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">shad, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sheep's-head, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">skate, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trout, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">turbot, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">white-fish, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">clams, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lobster, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">oysters, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">floating island, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Allemande sauce, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">baked, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Normande, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" another, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">boned and fried, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br />
+Flour, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.<br />
+Foies-gras, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.<br />
+Fondue, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.<br />
+Food, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>.<br />
+Fox, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br />
+Frangipane, <a href="#Page_390">390</a>.<br />
+Fricandeau, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.<br />
+Fritters, <a href="#Page_393">393</a>.<br />
+Frogs, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.<br />
+Fromage &agrave; la cr&egrave;me, <a href="#Page_383">383</a>.<br />
+Fruit, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">corer, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">candied, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_394">394</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for dessert, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" in liquor, <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</span><br />
+Frying, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">batter for, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fat &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp;<a href="#Page_29">29</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lard &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp;<a href="#Page_28">28</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">directions for, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">eggs and crumbs for, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Galantine, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.<br />
+Galette, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">du gymnase, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>.</span><br />
+Game, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>.</span><br />
+Garlic, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.<br />
+Garnish, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.<br />
+Garnishing, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.<br />
+Garnitures, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>.<br />
+G&eacute;noise, <a href="#Page_450">450</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with almonds, etc., <a href="#Page_451">451</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">&nbsp;" &nbsp; chocolate, etc., <a href="#Page_451">451</a>.</span><br />
+Gibelotte, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.<br />
+Giblets, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.<br />
+Glazing, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.<br />
+Godiveau, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.<br />
+Goose, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apple-sauce, etc., <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</span><br />
+Gooseberries in jelly, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.<br />
+Gosling, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.<br />
+Grapes, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in jelly, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+Gravy of meat, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fish, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</span><br />
+Grouse, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.<br />
+Guinea-fowl, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Haddock, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.<br />
+Halibut, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.<br />
+Ham, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in hors-d'oeuvre, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">decorated, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with sauces, <a href="#Page_230">230</a>, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</span><br />
+Hard cake, <a href="#Page_429">429</a>.<br />
+Hare, <a href="#Page_280">280-282</a>.<br />
+Hazel-nut butter, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.<br />
+Head-cheese, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.<br />
+Herb broth, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.<br />
+Herring, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salt, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">red, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</span><br />
+Highholders, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Hominy, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.<br />
+Hors-d'oeuvres, <a href="#Page_462">462</a>.<br />
+Horse-radish, <a href="#Page_462">462</a>.<br />
+Hot weather, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Ice-cream, <a href="#Page_392">392</a>.<br />
+Iced fruit, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.<br />
+Icing, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.<br />
+Ignorance in cooking, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>.<br />
+Indigestion, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.<br />
+Isinglass, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.<br />
+Italian pastes, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Jam, <a href="#Page_384">384</a>.<br />
+Jellies, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sweet or wine, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mac&eacute;doine, <a href="#Page_399">399</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold, <a href="#Page_399">399</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meat, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broth, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chicken, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">turkey, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">calf's-foot, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fruit, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</span><br />
+Jelly-bag, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.<br />
+Juice or jus, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.<br />
+Julienne, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Kid, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.<br />
+Kitchen utensils, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>.<br />
+Kisses, <a href="#Page_452">452</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Lady's-fingers, <a href="#Page_427">427</a>.<br />
+Lait de poule, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.<br />
+Lamb, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&eacute;pigramme, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fore-quarter, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hind-quarter, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">entire, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">feet, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">kidneys, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>.</span><br />
+Lapwing, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Lard, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>.<br />
+Larding, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">needle, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>.</span><br />
+Leaven, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.<br />
+Leeks, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.<br />
+Lemon in compote, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.</span><br />
+Lemonade, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.<br />
+Lentils, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">soup, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</span><br />
+Lettuce, <a href="#Page_324">324</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</span><br />
+Lima beans, <a href="#Page_309">309</a>.<br />
+Liver, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.<br />
+Lobster, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to boil, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bisque, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">croquettes, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">butter, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">another, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in bouch&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_420">420</a></span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"&nbsp; vol-au-vent, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"&nbsp; pie, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"&nbsp; salad, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">another, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"&nbsp; the shell, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scalloped, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>.</span><br />
+Loin, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.<br />
+Lunch, <a href="#Page_464">464</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Macaroni, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">croquettes, <a href="#Page_372">372</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au gratin, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Italienne, <a href="#Page_371">371</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Napolitaine, <a href="#Page_371">371</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">potage, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</span><br />
+Macaroons, <a href="#Page_451">451</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with chocolate, <a href="#Page_451">451</a>.</span><br />
+Mac&eacute;doine jelly, <a href="#Page_399">399</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salad, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">omelet, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">garniture, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>.</span><br />
+Mackerel, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salt, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Spanish, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.</span><br />
+Madeleines, <a href="#Page_452">452</a>.<br />
+Marmalades, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.<br />
+Matelote, <a href="#Page_132">132-134</a>.<br />
+Meadow-lark, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Meat, <a href="#Page_35">35</a><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">to cook, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" keep, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pies, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">jellies, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gravy, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</span><br />
+Melons, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">melted butter, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</span><br />
+Meringues, <a href="#Page_452">452</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apple, <a href="#Page_379">379</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chantilly, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Swiss, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.</span><br />
+Meuni&egrave;re, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br />
+Mince-pie, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.<br />
+Mint, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br />
+Miroton, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>.<br />
+Mixing, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.<br />
+Mock-turtle soup, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.<br />
+Motto, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>.<br />
+Moulds, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.<br />
+Muffins, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.<br />
+Mulberries, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.<br />
+Muscles, <a href="#Page_153">153</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.<br />
+Mushrooms, <a href="#Page_325">325</a>, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_326">326</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">catsup, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">garniture, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</span><br />
+Mustard, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.<br />
+Mutton, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">decorated, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with vegetables, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">haricot, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">breast broiled, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with sauces, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">on pur&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chops, broiled, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with vegetables, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">in papillotes, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with sauces, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">saut&eacute;es, etc., <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leg, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">decorated, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with vegetables, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; currant-jelly, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; sauces, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">cold, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">baked, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">neck, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">saddle, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">baked, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">roasted, etc., <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">shoulder, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">boned, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">on pur&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with sauces, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold, in vinaigrette, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">&nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; croquettes, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brain, etc., <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Nasturtium, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.<br />
+Nougat, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.<br />
+Nouilles, <a href="#Page_375">375</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Oil, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.<br />
+Oiled paper, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.<br />
+Okra, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.<br />
+Olives, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.<br />
+Omelet, <a href="#Page_363">363</a>, <a href="#Page_364">364</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">C&eacute;lestine, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mac&eacute;doine, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">souffl&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_369">369</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">aux fines herbes, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au naturel, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with bacon, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; fruit, <a href="#Page_365">365</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; cheese, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; ham, etc., <a href="#Page_368">368</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; kidneys, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; lobster, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; mushrooms, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; oysters and fish, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; rum, <a href="#Page_368">368</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; sorrel, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; sugar, <a href="#Page_367">367</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; sweetmeats, <a href="#Page_370">370</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; vegetables, <a href="#Page_366">366</a>.</span><br />
+Onions, <a href="#Page_327">327</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" garniture, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" salad, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pickled, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</span><br />
+Opossum, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br />
+Orangeade, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>.<br />
+Oranges, compote, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_394">394</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_405">405</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salad, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</span><br />
+Order of dishes, <a href="#Page_461">461</a>.<br />
+Osmazome, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>.<br />
+Otter, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br />
+Oysters, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raw, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in bouch&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" patties, <a href="#Page_421">421</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" vol-au-vent, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" poulette, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_156">156</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scalloped, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la Washington, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pickled, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">soup, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</span><br />
+Oyster-plant, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Pain perdu, <a href="#Page_394">394</a>.<br />
+Pains of game, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.<br />
+Panade, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br />
+Pancakes, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>, <a href="#Page_454">454</a>.<br />
+Pap, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>.<br />
+Paper, buttered, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">oiled, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>.</span><br />
+Papillotes, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.<br />
+Parsley, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.<br />
+Parsnip, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">saut&eacute;, <a href="#Page_328">328</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</span><br />
+Partridge, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.<br />
+Paste, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">puff, <a href="#Page_410">410-413</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for meat-pies, <a href="#Page_434">434</a>.</span><br />
+Pastry, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bag, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.</span><br />
+P&acirc;te &agrave; choux, <a href="#Page_422">422</a>.<br />
+P&acirc;t&eacute;, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">de foies-gras, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>.</span><br />
+Patties (bouch&eacute;es), <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.<br />
+Peacock, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.<br />
+Peaches, baked, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in compote, <a href="#Page_385">385</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" jelly, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pie, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" salad, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">iced, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">candied, <a href="#Page_403">403</a>.</span><br />
+Pears, in compote, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; salad, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">candied, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_396">396</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">syrup, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</span><br />
+Peas (green), <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_329">329</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au jus, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with ham, etc., <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;sugar, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(canned), <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(dry), <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(split), <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in soup, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.</span><br />
+Pepper, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.<br />
+Perch, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br />
+Petits fours, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pains, <a href="#Page_426">426</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">au chocolat, etc., <a href="#Page_424">424</a>.</span><br />
+Pheasant, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.<br />
+Pickerel, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.<br />
+Pickled cucumber, <a href="#Page_355">355</a>.<br />
+Pickles, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.<br />
+Pies, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">decorated, <a href="#Page_435">435</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fruit, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meat, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fish, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">game, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mince, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pot, <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.</span><br />
+Pig's feet, <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">head, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">kidneys, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(sucking), <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tongue, <a href="#Page_234">234</a>.</span><br />
+Pigeons, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in chartreuse, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" compote, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" crapaudine, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with vegetables, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</span><br />
+Pike, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">g&eacute;noise sauce, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with different sauces, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in matelote, <a href="#Page_132">132-134</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+Pine-apple, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in compote, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" fritters, <a href="#Page_393">393</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">syrup, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</span><br />
+Pithiviers, <a href="#Page_415">415</a>.<br />
+Plover, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Plums, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">candied, <a href="#Page_404">404</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in jelly, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" marmalade, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pie, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</span><br />
+Plum-pudding, <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.<br />
+Poached eggs, <a href="#Page_362">362</a>.<br />
+Pomm&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_414">414</a>.<br />
+Porgy, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br />
+Pork, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chine, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cutlets, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leg, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salt, <a href="#Page_231">231</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ham, <a href="#Page_228">228</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ears, etc., <a href="#Page_232">232</a>.</span><br />
+Porte manteau, <a href="#Page_414">414</a>.<br />
+Potages, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broth for, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">chicken broth, etc., <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">veal, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vegetables, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fish, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">made quickly, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bisque of lobster, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;crabs, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;craw-fish, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bouillabaisse, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">consomm&eacute;, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Colbert, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fancy, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Julienne, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la Brunoise, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Monaco, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">r&eacute;gence, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">royale, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au chasseur, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chinese, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">printanier, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">velout&eacute;, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with arrow-root, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; barley, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; bread, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; corn-starch, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; carrots, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; fecula, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; gruel, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; giblets, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; Indian meal, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; Italian pastes, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; macaroni, <a href="#Page_77">77-79</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; mackerel, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; nouilles, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; potatoes, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; quenelles, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; rice, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; sago, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; semoule, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; tapioca, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; turnips, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">" &nbsp; vermicelli, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pur&eacute;e Chantilly, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &agrave; la Cond&eacute;, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " Cr&eacute;cy, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " fran&ccedil;aise, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " reine, <a href="#Page_84">84-85</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" of asparagus, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " artichokes, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " beans, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " cauliflowers, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " chestnuts, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " corn, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " lentils, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " Lima, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " peas, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " potatoes, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " pumpkins, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " squash, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " tomatoes, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " turnips, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " wheat, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" " fowls, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Soup maigre, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">mock-turtle, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">sportsman's, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">turtle, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">clam, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">rice, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">beef and mutton, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">muscle, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">okra, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">ox-cheek, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" tail, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">oyster, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">pot-au-feu, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">sheep's-tail, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">sorrel, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with cabbage, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;cauliflower, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;cheese, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;herbs, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;leeks, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;milk, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;onions, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Allemande, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Indian, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Polish, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Russian, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">Spanish, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>.</span><br />
+Potatoes, <a href="#Page_330">330</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">steamed, <a href="#Page_331">331</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Allemande, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Anglaise, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Barigoule, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">B&eacute;chamel, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">duchesse, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fran&ccedil;aise, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fried, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hollandaise, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lyonnaise, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel, <a href="#Page_334">334</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mashed, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parisienne, <a href="#Page_332">332</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Polonaise, <a href="#Page_335">335</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">saut&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">souffl&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_337">337</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">swelled, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in balls, <a href="#Page_333">333</a>, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" cakes, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" croquettes, <a href="#Page_338">338</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" matelote, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" proven&ccedil;ale, <a href="#Page_336">336</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salad, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with bacon, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;butter, <a href="#Page_339">339</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;cream, etc., <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">soup, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sweet, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.</span><br />
+Pot-au-feu, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.<br />
+Poultry, <a href="#Page_237">237</a>.<br />
+Pound cake, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.<br />
+Prairie hen, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boned, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_286">286</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">saut&eacute;, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with sauces, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;vegetables, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;currant-jelly, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;garnitures, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;mushrooms, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;oranges, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunter-like, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">larded, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in chartreuse, <a href="#Page_284">284</a></span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" crapaudine, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" croquettes, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" fricass&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_287">287</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pie, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" salad, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" salmis, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" terreen, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.</span><br />
+Prawns, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.<br />
+Preface, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>.<br />
+Preserves of berries, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of fruits, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" meat, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" vegetables, <a href="#Page_353">353</a>.</span><br />
+Prunes, <a href="#Page_401">401</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_397">397</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.</span><br />
+Puddings, <a href="#Page_442">442</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bread, <a href="#Page_445">445</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cabinet, <a href="#Page_445">445</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">macaroni, <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">plum, <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tapioca, etc., <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vermicelli, <a href="#Page_446">446</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sauces, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</span><br />
+Puff-paste, <a href="#Page_410">410-413</a>.<br />
+Pumpkins, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.<br />
+Punch, <a href="#Page_407">407</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Roman, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>, <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.</span><br />
+Pur&eacute;es, of fruits,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;" &nbsp; &nbsp;vegetables, <a href="#Page_120">120-124</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;" &nbsp; &nbsp;meat, <a href="#Page_119">119</a>.</span><br />
+Purslain, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Quail, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">vegetables, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in chartreuse, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pie, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunter-like, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in grape-vine leaves, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>.</span><br />
+Quality of fish, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of meat, etc., <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.</span><br />
+Quenelles, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.<br />
+Quinces, preserved, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in marmalade, <a href="#Page_387">387</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">"&nbsp; jelly, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Rabbit, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">larded, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">saut&eacute;, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in chartreuse, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" civet, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" croquettes, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" gibelotte, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Marengo, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pie, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" vol-au-vent, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with olives, <a href="#Page_293">293</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;peas, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;currant-jelly, <a href="#Page_292">292</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;sauces, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">sportsman-like, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">cold, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.</span><br />
+Raccoon, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br />
+Radishes, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.<br />
+Rail, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Raisin&eacute;, <a href="#Page_402">402</a>.<br />
+Raisins, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.<br />
+Raspberries, compote, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">jelly, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</span><br />
+Raw materials, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.<br />
+Ray, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au beurre noir, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</span><br />
+Red herring, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>.<br />
+Reed-bird, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Relev&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_462">462</a>.<br />
+Rhubarb, <a href="#Page_341">341</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pie, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.</span><br />
+Rice, <a href="#Page_372">372</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in border, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cake, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">croquettes, <a href="#Page_373">373</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fritters, <a href="#Page_374">374</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">souffl&eacute;, <a href="#Page_374">374</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">soup, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water, <a href="#Page_375">375</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with fruit, <a href="#Page_374">374</a>.</span><br />
+Rice-bird, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Rissoles, <a href="#Page_416">416</a>.<br />
+Roasting, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>.<br />
+Robins, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Rolls, <a href="#Page_458">458</a>.<br />
+Roman punch, <a href="#Page_408">408</a>.<br />
+R&ocirc;ts, <a href="#Page_463">463</a>.<br />
+Roux, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.<br />
+Rum cakes, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Sage, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.<br />
+Sago, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.<br />
+Saint-Honor&eacute;, <a href="#Page_423">423</a>.<br />
+Salads, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of greens, <a href="#Page_348">348</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" fruits, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of poultry, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" game, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" fish, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+Salmis, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.<br />
+Salmon, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in fricandeau, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" Gen&egrave;voise, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" hors-d'oeuvre, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" papillotes, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pie, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" salad, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" scallops, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">caper-sauce, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">court bouillon, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salt, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">smoked, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.</span><br />
+Salpicon, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.<br />
+Salsify, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">B&eacute;chamel, etc., <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.</span><br />
+Sandwiches, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.<br />
+Sardines, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.<br />
+Sauce, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Allemande, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">anchovy, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apple, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">B&eacute;chamel, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blonde, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bread, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brown, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">caper, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">celery, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Champagne, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Colbert, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">coulis, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cranberry, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cream, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">craw-fish, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cucumber, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">currant, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">diplomat, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">egg, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Espagnolle, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">essence, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fines herbes, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fish, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Gen&egrave;voise, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">G&eacute;noise, <a href="#Page_103">103</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">gravy, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hollandaise, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Indian, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Italian, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">juice, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lobster, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Madeira, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ma&icirc;tre d'h&ocirc;tel, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">matelote, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_133">133</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mayonnaise, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">muscle, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mushroom, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">oyster, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Parisienne, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">peach, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">piquante, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">poivrade, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Polonaise, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">poulette, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">prawn, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">princesse, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">proven&ccedil;ale, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ravigote, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">raspberry, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">r&eacute;molade, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Robert, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roux, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">shallot, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">shrimp, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">soubise, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">supr&egrave;me, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tarragon, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tartar, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tomato, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">truffle, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">velout&eacute;, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">white, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vinaigrette, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">for blanc mange, <a href="#Page_381">381</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; puddings, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; Savarin, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>.</span><br />
+Saucissons, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.<br />
+Sausages, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>.<br />
+Sausage-meat, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>.<br />
+Saut&eacute;ing, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>.<br />
+Savarin, <a href="#Page_430">430</a>.<br />
+Scallops, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">on the shell, <a href="#Page_159">159</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of salmon, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" veal, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</span><br />
+Scalloped-knife, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>.<br />
+Seasoning, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.<br />
+Semoule, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>.<br />
+Shad, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la Chambord, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au gratin, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in proven&ccedil;ale, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with sorrel, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+Shallots, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.<br />
+Sheep's brain, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">feet, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">kidneys, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tongue, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>.</span><br />
+Sheep's-head fish, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.<br />
+Short-cake, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.<br />
+Shrimps, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>.<br />
+Simmering, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.<br />
+Skate, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.<br />
+Skewers, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>.<br />
+Skirret, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.<br />
+Skunk, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>.<br />
+Small birds, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Small fish, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>.<br />
+Smelts, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>.<br />
+Smoked tongue, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>.<br />
+Snails, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.<br />
+Snipe, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>.<br />
+Sole, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>.<br />
+Sorrel, <a href="#Page_342">342</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au jus, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in pur&eacute;e, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" salad, <a href="#Page_350">350</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" soup, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>.</span><br />
+Souffl&eacute;s, <a href="#Page_400">400</a>.<br />
+Soups, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>.<br />
+Sour-krout, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>.<br />
+Souse, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.<br />
+Spanish mackerel, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>.<br />
+Sparrow-grass, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>.<br />
+Spices, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>.<br />
+Spinach, <a href="#Page_343">343</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au beurre, etc., <a href="#Page_345">345</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" jus, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" sucre, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">&agrave; la cr&egrave;me, <a href="#Page_344">344</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">essence, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>.</span><br />
+Sponge cake, <a href="#Page_431">431</a>.<br />
+Sportsman's soup, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>.<br />
+Sprats, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>.<br />
+Sprouts, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>.<br />
+Squash, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.<br />
+Squirrel, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.<br />
+Steaks, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">turtle, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>.</span><br />
+Sterlet, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.<br />
+Stewing, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.<br />
+Stirring, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.<br />
+Straining, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.<br />
+Strawberry, glazed, <a href="#Page_396">396</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">iced, <a href="#Page_398">398</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in compote, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" fritters, <a href="#Page_393">393</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" jelly, <a href="#Page_406">406</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" salad, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" short-cake, <a href="#Page_432">432</a>.</span><br />
+Stuffing of birds, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fish, <a href="#Page_131">131</a>.</span><br />
+Sturgeon, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.<br />
+Succory, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>.<br />
+Succotash, <a href="#Page_321">321</a>.<br />
+Sucking-pig, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boned, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">decorated, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>.</span><br />
+Sugar, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">burnt, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cooked, <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dusted, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pulverized, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">syrup, <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.</span><br />
+Sun-fish, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.<br />
+Supper, <a href="#Page_464">464</a>.<br />
+Syrup for compotes, <a href="#Page_384">384</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">sugar, <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">apple, <a href="#Page_380">380</a>.</span><br />
+Sweetbreads, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>.<br />
+Sweet dishes, <a href="#Page_376">376</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">potatoes, <a href="#Page_340">340</a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Tapioca, <a href="#Page_447">447</a>.<br />
+Tarragon, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.<br />
+Tarte, <a href="#Page_441">441</a>.<br />
+Tartelettes, <a href="#Page_414">414</a>.<br />
+Tasting, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>.<br />
+Tea, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cake, <a href="#Page_433">433</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">(meal), <a href="#Page_464">464</a>.</span><br />
+Tench, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.<br />
+Tenderloin, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>.<br />
+Terrapin, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.<br />
+Terreen, <a href="#Page_438">438</a>.<br />
+Thrush, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+Thermometer, <a href="#Page_410">410</a>.<br />
+Thyme, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.<br />
+Tin tubes, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.<br />
+Toasts, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>.<br />
+Tomatoes, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">salad, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_345">345</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">catsup, <a href="#Page_354">354</a>.</span><br />
+Tongue, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>.<br />
+Tripe, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>.<br />
+Trout, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">g&eacute;noise sauce, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in matelote, <a href="#Page_132">132-134</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with sauces, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>.</span><br />
+Troutlet, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>.<br />
+Truffles, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">garniture, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>.</span><br />
+Tunny, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a>.<br />
+Turbot, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bordelaise, <a href="#Page_143">143</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in salad, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" vol-au-vent, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pie, <a href="#Page_439">439</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in hors-d'oeuvre, <a href="#Page_352">352</a>.</span><br />
+Turkey, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boiled, <a href="#Page_257">257</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boned, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preserved, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in croquettes, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" pie, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" salad, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with cranberry-sauce, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;oyster-sauce, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;currant-jelly, <a href="#Page_259">259</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold, <a href="#Page_263">263</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">caponed, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>.</span><br />
+Turnips, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">B&eacute;chamel, etc., <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">glazed, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">au jus, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with sugar, <a href="#Page_346">346</a>.</span><br />
+Turtle, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Vanilla, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.<br />
+Veal, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blanquette, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broiled, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">broth, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">croquettes, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ragout, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in scallops, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" vol-au-vent, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">with vegetables, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">decorated, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">breast, with peas, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">in matelote, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">neck, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cutlets, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">baked, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">saut&eacute;es, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with sauces, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">" &nbsp; &nbsp;garnitures, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">in papillotes, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with mushrooms, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">en Bellevue, <a href="#Page_210">210</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fricandeau, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">au jus, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">financi&egrave;re, <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with peas, etc., <a href="#Page_211">211</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">loin, or leg, stewed, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">baked, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">decorated, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">shoulder, on pur&eacute;es, etc., <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">baked, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">boned, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">roasted, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">stuffed, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">en Bellevue, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brain, etc., <a href="#Page_214">214</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">pie, <a href="#Page_437">437</a>.</span><br />
+Vegetables, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">spoons, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>.</span><br />
+Venison, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">baked, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in civet, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cutlets, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with sauces, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">haunch, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">saddle, with currant-jelly, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">shoulder, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">stewed, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">with truffles, etc., <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">cold, <a href="#Page_303">303</a>.</span><br />
+Vermicelli, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_446">446</a>.<br />
+Vinegar, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>.<br />
+Vol-au-vent, <a href="#Page_417">417</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">of fish, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" oysters, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" chicken, <a href="#Page_419">419</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" veal, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" game, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" fruits, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" sweatmeats, <a href="#Page_420">420</a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Waffles, <a href="#Page_454">454</a>.<br />
+Walnuts, <a href="#Page_351">351</a>.<br />
+Water, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.<br />
+Watercress, <a href="#Page_347">347</a>, <a href="#Page_349">349</a>.<br />
+Weak-fish, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>.<br />
+Welsh rarebit, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>.<br />
+White-fish, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>.<br />
+White pepper, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>.<br />
+Whortleberry, <a href="#Page_386">386</a>, <a href="#Page_440">440</a>.<br />
+Wines, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>.<br />
+Woodchuck, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>.<br />
+Woodcock, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">in pie, <a href="#Page_436">436</a>.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">" salmis, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>.</span><br />
+Woodpecker, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Yellow-birds, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>.<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+Z&eacute;phyrs, <a href="#Page_453">453</a>.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+<br /><br />
+<h4>THE END.</h4>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<h2>GASTRONOMY AND HOUSEKEEPING.</h2>
+
+<hr style='width: 25%;' />
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>Household Hints</b>: A Book of Home Receipts and Home Suggestions.
+By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Emma W. Babcock</span>. Flexible cloth, with illuminated
+design. 12mo. 60 cents.</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Contents</span>: I. Introductory; II. Bread, Tea, and Coffee; III. Meats,
+soups, and Fish; IV. Vegetables, Cereals, and Salads; V. Puddings and
+Pies; VI. Pickles; VII. Cake, Custard, and Candy; VIII. Fruit; IX.
+Miscellaneous Hints; X. Talks upon Various Subjects.</p>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>All Around the House</b>; or, How to make Homes happy. By Mrs. <span class="smcap">Henry
+Ward Beecher</span>. 12mo. Cloth, $1.50.</p></div>
+
+<p>This volume, as its title implies, consists of papers upon topics
+concerning the ordering and well-being of the household. It contains, in
+addition to a large number of receipts for cooking, and rules for
+marketing, numerous hints for the management of servants and children,
+directions as to furnishing, repairing, cleansing, etc., and information
+on all the innumerable things on which housekeepers need information,
+while, in addition to its usefulness as a guide to practical knowledge
+and economical methods, it is eminently interesting and suggestive, in
+its various essays on home topics, to every one concerned in the welfare
+and happiness of the household.</p>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>Hand-book of Practical Cookery</b>, for Ladies and Professional
+Cooks. Containing the whole Science and Art of preparing Human
+Food. By P. BLOT. 12mo, cloth, $1.75.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>Breakfast, Dinner, and Tea</b>; viewed Classically, Poetically, and
+Practically. A new edition. Square 12mo, cloth, $1.50.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>Half-Tints</b>: Table d'H&ocirc;te and Drawing-room. 12mo, cloth, 75
+cents.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>Lessons in Cookery</b>: Hand-book of the National Training-School
+for Cookery, South Kensington, London; to which is added the
+Principles of Diet in Health and Disease, by Thomas K. Chambers,
+M. D. Edited by <span class="smcap">Eliza A. Youmans</span>. 12mo, cloth, $1.50.</p></div>
+
+<p>The novelty and merit of the work are in the method by which it secures
+<i>successful</i> practice. Its lessons, the plainest, easiest, and fullest,
+anywhere to be found, have grown out of a long and painstaking
+experience, in finding out the best plan of teaching beginners and
+ignorant persons how to cook well. They were perfected through the
+stupidities, blunders, mistakes, questionings, and difficulties, of
+hundreds of pupils, of all ages, grades, and capacities, under the
+careful direction of intelligent, practical teachers.</p>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>Hand-book of Dining</b>; or, Corpulency and Leanness Scientifically
+Considered. By <span class="smcap">Brillat Savarin</span>. Translated by L. F. Simpson.
+12mo, $1.00.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>Social Etiquette of New York</b>. New and enlarged edition.
+Containing two additional chapters&mdash;"Extended Visits," and
+"Customs and Costumes at Theatres, Concerts, and Operas"&mdash;with
+the chapter on "Etiquette of Weddings" rewritten in accordance
+with the latest fashionable usage. 18mo, cloth, gilt, $1.00.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>Hand-book of Household Science</b>. By Professor <span class="smcap">E. L. Youmans</span>.
+12mo, cloth, $1.75.</p></div>
+
+<p>This work has been prepared to meet a long-acknowledged want in our
+homes and schools. There is a strong and growing demand for that kind of
+knowledge which can be made available in the daily operations of
+familiar life. Various books have been prepared which cross the field of
+domestic science at different points, but this is the first work that
+traverses and occupies the whole ground. Hardly a page can be opened
+that does not convey information interesting and valuable to every
+person who dwells in a house. The work will be found not only of high
+practical utility, but captivating to the student, and unequaled in the
+interest of its recitations.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 25%;' />
+
+<h4>New York: D. APPLETON &amp; CO., 1, 3, &amp; 5 Bond Street.</h4>
+
+
+<br /><br /><br /><br />
+<h3>BOOKS FOR EVERY HOUSEHOLD.</h3>
+
+<h4>Cooley's Cyclop&aelig;dia of Practical Receipts</h4>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>And Collateral
+Information in the Arts, Manufactures, Professions, and Trades,
+including Medicine, Pharmacy, and Domestic Economy. Designed as
+a Comprehensive Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia, and General
+Book of Reference for the Manufacturer, Tradesman, Amateur, and
+Heads of Families. <i>Sixth edition</i>. Revised and partly rewritten
+by <span class="smcap">Richard V. Tuson</span>, Professor of Chemistry and Toxicology in
+the Royal Veterinary College. Complete in two volumes, 8vo,
+1,796 pages. With Illustrations. Price, $9.00.</p></div>
+
+<p>"The great characteristic of this work is its general usefulness. In
+covering such diverse subjects, the very best and most recent research
+seems to have been sought for, and the work is remarkable for
+intelligent industry. This very complete work can, then, be highly
+recommended as fulfilling to the letter what it purports to be&mdash;a
+cyclop&aelig;dia of practical receipts."&mdash;<i>New York Times</i>.</p>
+
+<p>"It is a well-edited special work, compiled with excellent judgment for
+special purposes, which are kept constantly in mind. If it is more
+comprehensive than its title suggests, that is only because it is
+impossible to define the limits of its purpose with exactitude, or to
+describe its contents upon a title-page. Illustrations of the text are
+freely used, and the mechanical execution of the work is
+excellent."&mdash;<i>New York Evening Post.</i></p>
+
+
+<h3>The Chemistry of Common Life.</h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>By the late Professor <span class="smcap">James F. W. Johnston</span>. A new edition,
+revised and enlarged, and brought down to the Present Time, by
+<span class="smcap">Arthur Herbert Church</span>, M. A., Oxon., author of "Food: its
+Sources, Constituents, and Uses." Illustrated with Maps and
+numerous Engravings on Wood. In one vol., 12mo, 592 pages.
+Cloth. Price, $2.00.</p></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Summary of Contents.</span>&mdash;The Air we Breathe; the Water we Drink; the Soil
+we Cultivate; the Plant we Rear; the Bread we Eat; the Beef we Cook; the
+Beverages we Infuse; the Sweets we Extract; the Liquors we Ferment; the
+Narcotics we Indulge in; the Poisons we Select; the Odors we Enjoy; the
+Smells we Dislike; the Colors we Admire; What we Breathe and Breathe
+for; What, How, and Why we Digest; the Body we Cherish; the Circulation
+of Matter.</p>
+
+<p>In the number and variety of striking illustrations, in the simplicity
+of its style, and in the closeness and cogency of its arguments,
+Professor Johnston's "Chemistry of Common Life" has as yet found no
+equal among the many books of a similar character which its success
+originated, and it steadily maintains its pre&euml;minence in the popular
+scientific literature of the day. In preparing this edition for the
+press, the editor had the opportunity of consulting Professor Johnston's
+private and corrected copy of "The Chemistry of Common Life," who had,
+before his death, gleaned very many fresh details, so that he was able
+not only to incorporate with his revision some really valuable matter,
+but to learn the kind of addition which the author contemplated.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 25%;' />
+
+<h4><i>D. APPLETON &amp; CO., Publishers</i>, 1, 3, &amp; 5 <i>Bond St., New York</i></h4>
+
+
+<br /><br />
+<b>Transcriber's Notes:</b><br />
+hyphenation, spelling and grammar have been preserved as in the original<br />
+Page 28, kept a ong time ==> kept a long time<br />
+Page 29, to bake game ==> to bake game.<br />
+Page 47, when proper y made ==> when properly made<br />
+Page 53, with good beef ==> with good beef.<br />
+Page 68, stalks of chewil ==> stalks of chervil<br />
+Page 78, place a ayer ==> place a layer<br />
+Page 83, when mash gently ==> then mash gently<br />
+Page 86, but ess nourishing ==> but less nourishing<br />
+Page 116, fresh mushroons and ==> fresh mushrooms and<br />
+Page 116, cooked, when add ==> cooked, then add<br />
+Page 157, excellent dish ==> excellent dish.<br />
+Page 205, hrow them in ==> throw them in<br />
+Page 218, with once ounce ==> with one ounce<br />
+Page 248, cooked, when add ==> cooked, then add<br />
+Page 253, yellow, when add ==> yellow, then add<br />
+Page 284, done, when dish ==> done, then dish<br />
+Page 297, following sauce pound ==> following sauce; pound<br />
+Page 334, and scolloped all ==> and scalloped all<br />
+Page 346, fifteen minutes ==> fifteen minutes.<br />
+Page 361, Procced as for eggs ==> Proceed as for eggs<br />
+Page 379, by squeezeing it ==> by squeezing it<br />
+Page 394, an inck thick. ==> an inch thick.<br />
+Page 400, tea, choco late, etc. ==> tea, chocolate, etc.<br />
+Page 404, one another; and ==> one an other; and<br />
+Page 416, with trim mings of ==> with trimmings of<br />
+Page 418/419, the cen tre, it ==> the centre, it<br />
+Page 443, atter are blamable ==> latter are blamable<br />
+Page 460, rots and entremets ==> r&ocirc;ts and entremets<br />
+Page 460, to spend. etc. ==> to spend, etc.<br />
+Page 461, H&ocirc;rs-d'oeuvres ==> hors-d'oeuvres<br />
+Page 474, saute&eacute;s, 336. ==> saut&eacute;es, 336.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hand-Book of Practical Cookery for
+Ladies and Professional Cooks, by Pierre Blot
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+</pre>
+
+  </body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hand-Book of Practical Cookery for Ladies
+and Professional Cooks, by Pierre Blot
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Hand-Book of Practical Cookery for Ladies and Professional Cooks
+
+Author: Pierre Blot
+
+Release Date: March 21, 2011 [EBook #35646]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKERY ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Marcia Brooks, Ross Cooling and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Canada Team at
+http://www.pgdpcanada.net (This file was produced from
+images generously made available by The Internet
+Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+  HAND-BOOK
+
+  OF
+
+  PRACTICAL COOKERY,
+
+  FOR
+
+  LADIES AND PROFESSIONAL COOKS.
+
+  CONTAINING
+
+  _THE WHOLE SCIENCE AND ART OF PREPARING HUMAN FOOD._
+
+
+  BY
+
+  PIERRE BLOT,
+
+  PROFESSOR OF GASTRONOMY, AND FOUNDER OF THE NEW YORK COOKING ACADEMY.
+
+
+  "If ye be willing and obedient, ye shall eat the good of the land."
+
+
+  NEW YORK:
+  D. APPLETON AND COMPANY,
+  1, 3, and 5 BOND STREET.
+  1884.
+
+
+
+
+  Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1867, by
+
+  D. APPLETON & CO.,
+
+  In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the
+  Southern District of New York.
+
+
+
+
+  PREFACE.
+
+Food is the most important of our wants; we cannot exist without it. The
+man who does not use his brain to select and prepare his food, is not
+above the brutes that take it in its raw state. It is to the physique
+what education is to the mind, coarse or refined. Good and well-prepared
+food beautifies the physique the same as a good and well-directed
+education beautifies the mind. A cook-book is like a book on chemistry,
+it cannot be used to any advantage if theory is not blended with
+practice. It must also be written according to the natural products and
+climate of the country in which it is to be used, and with a perfect
+knowledge of the properties of the different articles of food and
+condiments.
+
+Like many other books, it is not the size that makes it practical; we
+could have made this one twice as large as it is, without having added a
+single receipt to it, by only having given separate ones for pieces of
+meat, birds, fishes, etc., that are of the same kind and prepared
+alike. All cook-books written by mere compilers, besides giving the same
+receipt several times, recommend the most absurd mixtures as being the
+best and of the "latest French style."
+
+Although cookery has made more progress within two or three years, in
+this country as well as in Europe, than it had since 1830, and although
+all our receipts are complete, practical, wholesome, and in accordance
+with progress, still they are simple. Our aim has been to enable every
+housekeeper and professional cook, no matter how inexperienced they may
+be, to prepare any kind of food in the best and most wholesome way, with
+economy, celerity, and taste; and also to serve a dinner in as orderly a
+manner as any steward can do.
+
+We did not intend to make a book, such as that of CAREME, which cannot
+be used at all except by cooks of very wealthy families, and with which
+one cannot make a dinner costing less than twenty dollars a head. Such a
+book is to housekeepers or plain cooks what a Latin dictionary is to a
+person of merely elementary education.
+
+If we give so many different ways of preparing the same article of food,
+it is not with a view to complicate cookery, but people's taste is in
+food as in dress, differing not only in the selection of colors, but
+also in shape; therefore, by our variety of dishes and our different
+styles of decorating them; by the ease that they can be prepared in the
+cheapest as well as in the most costly way, we think we have met all
+wants and all tastes. The wealthy, as well as those in limited
+circumstances, can use our receipts with the same advantage.
+
+Our division of cookery and the system of arranging _bills of fare_,
+contained in these pages, solve that great and perplexing question,
+especially for ladies, how to arrange a bill of fare for every season,
+to suit any number of guests, at a greater or less expense, as they may
+desire. Every one knows that money alone cannot make good dishes;
+however good the raw materials may be, they require proper preparations
+before being palatable and wholesome.
+
+
+  TO HOUSEKEEPERS AND COOKS.
+
+A cook-book cannot be used like a dictionary; a receipt is like a rule
+of grammar: to comprehend it thoroughly, it is indispensable to
+understand others. The author, therefore, earnestly recommends to his
+readers to begin by perusing carefully the directions, etc., at the
+beginning of the book, and also the explanations given on and heading
+the different articles of food, before attempting the preparation of a
+dish for the first time. They will thus soon be able to prepare any dish
+by merely reading the receipt. If all the explanations necessary were
+given at every receipt, this work would have filled more than ten
+volumes like the present.
+
+We are aware that the study of cookery is as uninviting and dry as the
+study of grammar at first; so is the study of every science and even
+art; but it becomes comparatively easy and interesting after a while.
+Mere flourish in a receipt would have the same effect as in a rule of
+grammar.
+
+
+  TO COOKS.
+
+We think the following friendly recommendations will not be out of place
+here. They are in the interest of both the housekeeper and the cook:
+
+    Make use of every thing good.
+
+    Waste nothing, however little it may be.
+
+    Have no prejudices.
+
+    Be careful, clean, and punctual.
+
+    Always bear in mind that routine is the greatest enemy of
+    progress, and that you have agreed to faithfully perform your
+    daily duties for a certain consideration.
+
+        PIERRE BLOT.
+
+    New York, _August_, 1867.
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS.
+
+                                     PAGE
+  COOKING,                              9
+  DIRECTIONS, EXPLANATIONS, ETC.,      16
+  DIVERS RECEIPTS,                     44
+  POTAGES OR SOUPS,                    61
+  SAUCES,                              97
+  FARCES AND GARNITURES,              113
+  FISH,                               125
+  BEEF,                               162
+  MUTTON,                             184
+  VEAL,                               202
+  PORK,                               226
+  POULTRY,                            237
+  GAME,                               276
+  VEGETABLES,                         305
+  EGGS, MACARONI, AND RICE,           356
+  SWEET DISHES,                       376
+  PASTRY,                             409
+  BILLS OF FARE,                      459
+  INDEX,                              465
+
+
+
+
+  COOKING.
+
+
+The science and art of cooking may be divided into ten principal parts;
+the rest is all fancy. These ten parts are: Baking, Boiling, Broiling,
+Frying, Mixing, Roasting, Sauteing, Seasoning, Simmering, and Stewing.
+
+Tasting is an adjunct to all.
+
+_Baking._--In baking, see that the furnace or oven be properly heated;
+some dishes require more heat than others. Look at the object in process
+of baking from time to time, and especially at the beginning, turn it
+round if necessary, in case it be heated more on one side than on the
+other, to prevent burning.
+
+In baking meat and fish, besides keeping the bottom of the pan covered
+with broth or water, place a piece of buttered paper over the object in
+the pan; it not only prevents it from burning, but acts as a
+self-basting operation, and keeps the top moist and juicy.
+
+If the top of cakes bake faster than the rest, place a piece of paper on
+it.
+
+In most of our receipts, we give the degree of heat necessary to bake
+the different objects; it will, no doubt, be found valuable information.
+
+_Boiling._--This is the most abused branch in cooking; we know that many
+good-meaning housewives and professional cooks boil things that ought
+to be prepared otherwise, with a view to economy; but a great many do it
+through laziness. Boiling requires as much care as any other branch, but
+they do not think so, and therefore indulge in it.
+
+Another abuse is to boil fast instead of slowly. Set a small ocean of
+water on a brisk fire and boil something in it as fast as you can, you
+make much steam but do not cook faster; the degree of heat being the
+same as if you were boiling slowly.
+
+If the object you boil, and especially boil fast, contains any flavor,
+you evaporate it, and cannot bring it back.
+
+Many things are spoiled or partly destroyed by boiling, such as meat,
+coffee, etc.
+
+Water that has been boiled is inferior for cooking purposes, its gases
+and alkali being evaporated.
+
+_Broiling._--Whatever you broil, grease the bars of the gridiron first.
+
+Broiling and roasting is the same thing; the object in process of
+cooking by either must be exposed to the heat on one side, and the other
+side to the air.
+
+Bear in mind that no one can broil or roast in an oven, whatever be its
+construction, its process of heating, or its kind of heat. An object
+cooked in an oven is baked.
+
+It is better to broil before than over the fire. In broiling before the
+fire, all the juice can be saved.
+
+In broiling by gas, there is a great advantage. The meat is placed under
+the heat, and as the heat draws the juice of the meat, the consequence
+is, that the juice being attracted upward, it is retained in the meat.
+
+A gas broiler is a square, flat drum, perforated on one side and placed
+over a frame.
+
+Broiling on live coals or on cinders without a gridiron is certainly not
+better than with one, as believed by many; on the contrary, besides not
+being very clean, it burns or chars part of the meat.
+
+That belief comes from the fact that when they partook of meat prepared
+that way, it was with a sauce that generally accompanies hunters,
+fishermen, etc.,--_hunger_--the most savory of all savory sauces.
+
+_Frying._--That part of cooking is not as difficult as it is generally
+believed, and properly fried objects are good and do not taste greasy.
+
+To fry requires care, and nothing fried will taste greasy if it has been
+dropped in fat properly heated and in enough of it to immerse the
+object.
+
+When an object tastes greasy, it is not because it has been fried in
+grease, but because there was not enough of it, or because it was not
+properly heated; for, if heated enough it closes the pores of the object
+and carbonizes the exterior, so that it cannot absorb any.
+
+_Directions for Frying._--Prepare what you intend to fry according to
+the directions given in the different receipts.
+
+Have fat, lard, or oil in a pan, enough to immerse the object or objects
+intended to be fried.
+
+When the fat is hot enough (see below), place the object in a kind of
+wire basket made for that purpose, which drop in the fat and take off
+when the object is fried. It is handy, and there is no danger of
+breaking the object in taking it off.
+
+There are objects that require to be stirred or turned over while
+frying.
+
+Every time you fry any thing, take the fat from the fire, let it stand
+in a cool place for about five minutes, then turn it gently into a
+stone jar or pot through a strainer; let cool and put away. In turning
+the fat, lard, or oil into the jar, pour so that the dregs will be kept
+in the pan.
+
+To ascertain with accuracy when the fat, lard, or oil is hot enough to
+lay the things in the pan, dip a fork in cold water, the prongs only; so
+as to retain but one or two drops of water, which drops you let fall in
+the fat, and if it crackles, it is hot enough.
+
+Another way is, when jets of smoke come out of the fat.
+
+There are objects that require more heat than others, some that are more
+sightly when brown, and others when of a pale-yellow hue.
+
+If the object is desired brown, leave the pan on a brisk fire while it
+is frying; if otherwise, remove it to a slow or less brisk fire.
+
+Fat is not like water, which, no matter how fast you boil it, you cannot
+augment the degree of heat, while you can that of fat. If water, by
+boiling it fast, could be heated as much as fat, it would be used to fry
+in its stead, being cheaper.
+
+_Mixing._--In mixing, pay due attention to the quantities we give in the
+receipts; but as everybody has not the same taste, it is very easy to
+augment or diminish the quantity of salt, pepper, sugar, butter, etc.,
+so as to suit one's own taste.
+
+When the quantity is left to the judgment or taste of the cook, that is,
+when the expression _about so much_ is made use of, it is not necessary
+then to have the exact quantity; a little more or a little less cannot
+spoil or partly destroy the dish.
+
+_Roasting._--When an object is placed on the spit according to
+directions, remember that it cannot be basted too often.
+
+The time necessary for roasting a piece of meat or any thing else,
+depends as much upon the fire as upon the nature of the meat. Meat
+especially requires to be placed very near the fire at first, and then
+put back by degrees.
+
+There is nearly as much difference between roasted and baked meat as
+there is between broiled and fried meat.
+
+It is generally admitted here, that English roast-beef is so superior to
+American roast-beef that it cannot be compared to it. It is not in the
+quality of the meat that the difference lies, but in the process of
+cooking.
+
+Meat cannot be roasted in an oven, be it in an ordinary or in a patented
+one.
+
+That peculiar flavor in roasted meat is produced by the air coming
+constantly in contact with the heated meat while revolving on the spit.
+
+Cold roasted meat, when desired to be served warm, is enveloped in
+buttered paper and placed on the spit just long enough to warm it.
+
+_Sauteing._--There is no word, that we know, in the English language,
+corresponding to the French word _saute_. It differs from frying in
+this: that to fry any object requires fat enough to immerse that object;
+while to _saute_ it, requires just enough to prevent it from scorching.
+
+Vegetables, omelets, etc., are _sauted_, and not fried.
+
+Meat or fish cooked in a frying-pan with a little butter or fat, is
+_sauted_, and not fried; but the term fried is most generally used, the
+other being only known to practitioners.
+
+To _saute_ requires a brisk fire; the quicker an object is cooked by
+_sauteing_ the better.
+
+_Seasoning._--This is the most difficult part in the science of cooking.
+To season is not difficult, but to season properly is quite another
+thing.
+
+It is not only necessary to know well how to stew or roast a peace of
+meat or any thing else, but to know how to season it, to be able to
+judge what quantity and what kind of spices can be used to season such
+or such a dish, to what extent all the spices used agree together, and
+what taste and flavor they will give to the object with which they are
+cooked; for, if not properly used, they may just as likely destroy the
+taste and flavor of the object as improve it.
+
+Some dishes require high and much seasoning, others just the contrary.
+With a good fire and a good spit, it is not necessary to be a thorough
+cook to roast a piece well, but the cook is indispensable to mix the
+gravy or sauce with the proper seasonings.
+
+_Simmering._--Simmering differs from boiling only in the amount of heat
+allowed under the boiler, kettle, or pan. To simmer, is to boil as
+gently and slowly as possible.
+
+_Stewing._--To stew properly it is necessary to have a moderate fire and
+as even as possible. A brisk fire would cause much steam to evaporate,
+which steam is the flavor of the object stewed.
+
+_Tasting._--This is the most difficult, and at the same time the most
+delicate, part of seasoning; it is by tasting that we ascertain if we
+have seasoned properly.
+
+In this only two of the senses are engaged, and one of those much more
+than the other.
+
+A person may have good feeling, hearing, and sight, and for all that
+would not be fit for preparing the simplest dish; the senses of smelling
+and tasting are the ones most required, and without which no one can
+cook properly.
+
+For these reasons we will take the liberty to recommend to housekeepers,
+when they have new cooks, to instruct them on their taste, and always
+let them know when they have seasoned too much or too little. To the
+cooks we will say, do not season according to your own taste, if the
+persons for whom you cook do not like it.
+
+If the housekeeper would give his or her candid and frank opinion of the
+dishes to the cook, and if the latter be not stubborn, the best results
+might be obtained and both would be benefited by it. That ought to be
+done every day while making the bill of fare.
+
+To taste a sauce, as well as to know if a thing is good to eat, we
+cannot trust either our eyes, fingers, or ears; we then have recourse,
+first to our smelling, and then to our tasting: so do most animals.
+
+We always commence by smelling, and when that sense is satisfied as far
+as it is concerned, we then apply our tasting qualities; and if that
+last one is, in its turn, satisfied also, we proceed, that is, we
+masticate, if mastication is necessary, and then swallow.
+
+
+
+
+  DIRECTIONS, EXPLANATIONS, ETC.
+
+
+  ANISE.
+
+Anise comes from Egypt, and is used as a spice.
+
+
+  APRICOT.
+
+This is a native of Armenia. It is served like plums and peaches; in
+salad, compote, etc.
+
+
+  BACON.
+
+Never use smoked bacon or ham, except when especially directed. The
+smoky taste would spoil the dish.
+
+
+  BAIN-MARIE.
+
+A bain-marie is a large vessel of hot or boiling water, in which
+saucepans, kettles, moulds, etc., are placed to prepare or warm food. It
+is also used to keep any kind of food warm, when something is ready to
+serve, and the time has not come; the utensil containing it is placed in
+hot water, and it not only keeps it warm, but there is almost no
+evaporation while in it. It does not boil away either.
+
+There are things that are much more delicate when prepared or warmed in
+hot water.
+
+One utensil made for that purpose, and of brass, with compartments, is
+more handy, but a large saucepan may be used in its stead.
+
+When any thing is in the bain-marie, the water should not be allowed to
+boil fast enough either to upset the pans or get into them.
+
+
+  BAKE-PANS.
+
+A bake-pan for baking meat, fish, or any other object that requires
+liquor of any kind, must have borders in order to hold that liquor; but
+a bake-pan for cakes or any other object that does not require any
+liquor, or that does not turn liquid in baking, is better without
+borders--that is, a simple piece of sheet iron of a size to go easily in
+the oven.
+
+
+  BAY-LEAF.
+
+This is known also under its French name laurier.
+
+It is used as a spice; it is exceedingly cheap and is excellent to
+flavor sauces, gravies, etc.
+
+It comes especially from Italy, where it is used to pack figs, oil, and
+different fruits.
+
+
+  BEETS.
+
+The red beet is much used to decorate different dishes.
+
+It is boiled, then pickled, cut in fancy shapes, either with a knife or
+with paste-cutters, and tastefully placed on or around the object it is
+used to decorate.
+
+It is served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, pickled, and cut in slices.
+
+_To boil._--Set it on a good fire in a pan, covered with cold water, and
+boil gently till done.
+
+The beet must not be touched at all with any thing rough, for if the
+skin or root is cut or broken, all the color goes away in boiling, it is
+not fit to decorate, and loses much of its quality.
+
+When you buy beets, see that they are not bruised, and that the root is
+not broken.
+
+
+  BRAISING.
+
+Braising, in cookery, means to cook any thing with fire under and upon
+the pan, kettle, or other utensil.
+
+A good oven is by far more easy, and answers perfectly the purpose. An
+oven not only warms the under and upper parts of the utensil, but all
+around it also.
+
+
+  BUNCH OF SEASONINGS.
+
+It is composed of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and cloves, and sometimes a
+clove of garlic is added. Place the sprigs of parsley in the left hand,
+rather spread, lay the others on and in the middle of the parsley, and
+envelop them in it as well as possible, then tie the whole with twine.
+
+As all these seasonings are never served except when chopped, they are
+more easily taken out than if they were not tied together.
+
+
+  BUTTERED PAPER.
+
+Dip in lukewarm butter a piece of white paper of the size you want, and
+envelop the piece to broil or roast with it. Tie the paper around with
+twine or coarse thread.
+
+
+  OILED PAPER.
+
+The only difference between oiled and buttered paper is, that it is
+dipped in sweet or olive oil instead of butter.
+
+
+  CATSUP.
+
+Beware of what is sold under the name of catsups and pickles; many cases
+of dyspepsia, debility, and consumption come from using such stuff.
+
+
+  CAVIARE.
+
+It is made with the roes, hard and soft, of the sterlet. It is imported
+from Russia, and is served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, with slices of lemon
+and toast.
+
+
+  CERVELAS, SAUCISSONS, ETC.
+
+Cervelas, saucissons, as well as smoked sausages, are pork-butchers'
+preparations, cut slantwise in very thin slices, and served as
+_hors-d'oeuvre_, with parsley in the middle of the dish.
+
+
+  CHEESE.
+
+Cheese is the first plate of _dessert_ to be partaken of. "A dinner
+without cheese is like a handsome lady with but one
+eye."--_Brillat-Savarin_.
+
+"Cheese takes away all the taste that might be left from preceding
+dishes, and by that means prepares the palate for the appreciation of
+the good things, the delicate flavors of the dessert and wines."
+
+
+  COCHINEAL.
+
+Cochineal, or carmine. Buy the cochineal in powder, prepared for cooking
+purposes, mix some (say the size of half a split pea) with a few drops
+of cold water and mix that again with what you wish to color. The
+quantity of cochineal is according to the quantity of mixture and also
+according to how deep the color is desired.
+
+
+  CHERVIL.
+
+This comes from Italy, and is used in salad and as a spice.
+
+
+  COLANDER.
+
+Besides the ordinary colander, it is necessary to have a fine one. We
+mean, by a fine colander, one with holes half the size of the ordinary
+ones, that is, just between the colander and strainer. A colander
+should not have holes on the sides; it is handier and more clean with
+holes at the bottom only.
+
+
+  CURRY.
+
+We think that curry is very good and necessary on the borders of the
+Ganges River, and for that very reason we think also that it ought to be
+eschewed on the borders of the Hudson, Delaware, Ohio, and thereabouts.
+
+We cannot describe curry better than by giving here the answer
+(_verbatim et literatim_) of a gentleman who has lived a few years in
+Java, to a question on the properties and qualities of curry. He said
+that he thought it good and even necessary to use some there on account
+of the climate, but every time he had eaten it he thought he was
+swallowing boiling alcohol or live coals.
+
+
+  DINING-ROOM.
+
+It must be well ventilated and lighted. The best degree of temperature
+is about 66 degrees Fahr.
+
+
+  DISH.
+
+A dish ought to be charming to the eye, flattering to the smell, and
+delicious to the taste.
+
+
+  DRAINING.
+
+To drain, is to put in a colander any thing that has been soaked,
+washed, or boiled, etc., in water or any other liquid, in order to dry
+it, or at least to let drop from it the water or other liquid that may
+be in it.
+
+Salads of greens, as a general thing, are drained after being washed,
+before putting them in the salad-dish; they must be drained as dry as
+possible, but without pressing on them, as it would wilt the leaves, and
+give the salad an unsightly appearance.
+
+
+  DUSTING.
+
+A pan, after being buttered or greased, is dusted with flour, sugar, or
+even bread-crumbs, to prevent the mixture that is put in it from
+sticking. Sugar, etc., may also be sprinkled over dishes with a dredger.
+
+
+  DRINKING.
+
+When weary, or cold, or warm, or exhausted, we drink in preference to
+eating, because we feel the effect instantaneously; while after eating
+even the most substantial food, we do not feel the effect for some time.
+
+When exhausted and when immediate relief is necessary, the best drinks
+are broth, chocolate, milk, or water sweetened with sugar. It is more
+than a mistake to drink wines or liquors at such a time; it is really
+committing slow suicide.
+
+When only thirsty, without exhaustion, we ought to drink cold water with
+a teaspoon. When thirsty and heated, the first thing to do is to dip the
+hands in cold water deep enough just to cover the wrists; then dip a
+towel in the water, lay it on the forehead, and then drink cold water
+with a teaspoon.
+
+A few drops of vinegar or lemon-juice may be added to the water. If
+exceedingly hot, keep your hands in cold water and the towel on your
+forehead at least one minute before drinking.
+
+
+  HOT WEATHER.
+
+A remark or two on eating and drinking in hot weather are always in
+season. Green vegetables, properly cooked, are certainly healthful in
+warm weather; but it is a mistake to think that meat should be excluded
+from summer diet. The hotter the weather, the more the system wastes,
+and therefore the more we must supply.
+
+In order to keep the body in a healthful condition, meat ought to be
+eaten at least once a day in summer-time. It would be well to vary this
+programme by taking one meal of fish on every other day.
+
+Fat should be disused as much as possible. A very little good butter
+with your fresh radishes at breakfast is as much fat as is necessary.
+
+
+  COLD WEATHER.
+
+Fat meat is good in winter and is relished; so are dry vegetables and
+saccharine substances.
+
+
+  FOOD.
+
+Nature has provided man with a mind, in order that he should study what
+kind of food suits his constitution; he who does not do it, is not above
+the lower animals.
+
+"Good things have been made by the Creator for good people, flowers have
+certainly not been made for brutes, either quadruped or
+biped."--_Jefferson._
+
+"It is from good things that, in a human point of view, we derive the
+strength necessary to our limbs, let us partake of the same and be
+thankful."--_Rev._----_Chadband._
+
+Have your food selected and prepared according to constitution,
+occupation, climate, age, and sex.
+
+Waste in females is greater than in males.
+
+Animals, generally, are very careful in selecting their food.
+
+A temporary bloatedness may be obtained, especially with the young, by
+eating much farinaceous food, such as pancakes, etc., but it does not
+last, and is sure to bring on disease or sickness, or both.
+
+Man is omnivorous, and must be fed accordingly.
+
+Extreme leanness comes from want of proper food, either in youth or old
+age.
+
+It is not the amount that is eaten which nourishes, but the amount that
+is digested; an excess of food is as bad as a lack of it.
+
+Good and well-baked bread is nutritious and healthful, while unbaked
+bread is heavy and difficult of digestion.
+
+Take at least half an hour's rest after a hearty meal, for mind and
+stomach cannot work at the same time.
+
+Never eat when angry, or tired, or when heated; but be as cool and as
+gay as possible, for food being exposed to a heat of about 100 degrees
+Fahr, in the stomach, would ferment instead of digesting.
+
+Take a hearty but by no means heavy dinner.
+
+Eat slowly, at regular hours, and masticate well, but do not bolt your
+food, or eat any thing that does not taste good.
+
+Drink slowly, moderately, and always taste before swallowing.
+
+Vary your food as much as possible.
+
+Always have at least one dish of vegetables for dinner, besides meat,
+and also ripe fruit.
+
+See that every thing you eat or drink is of a good quality, wholesome
+and properly prepared.
+
+
+  ECONOMY.
+
+There is not a word so much misused in cooking as the word economy.
+
+Prejudice comes for a large share in the use of it.
+
+How many things are thrown away, or wasted by mere prejudice or
+ignorance!
+
+It is often from economy that a woman washes meat, because some part of
+it does not look clean. Instead of washing it, do not buy it; or, if
+bought, cut off a thin slice and throw it away: it is more economical
+than washing the whole piece, which you partly destroy by the process.
+
+It is with a view to economy, that an old, bad custom prevails of
+boiling coffee. What an economy of sending the best part of the coffee
+(the aroma) to the attic, and the rest to the dining-room. A bad drink
+can be made cheaper with many things than with coffee.
+
+Tea is also boiled with an eye to economy.
+
+
+  EGG-BEATER.
+
+We have tried five different kinds in Boston, before a large audience
+and on the demand of an inventor of one, but none could beat eggs as
+well as a common hand-beater. The whites of the eggs could not be raised
+with any of the others much more than half as much as with the common
+one; and besides, could not be beaten stiff.
+
+Many persons do not succeed in making cakes of different preparations in
+which whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth are used, because the eggs
+are not properly beaten.
+
+Any tinsmith can make an egg-beater. It is generally made with tin-wire,
+but may be made with brass-wire.
+
+With the cut below, as a model, it can be easily made.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The handle _a_ is of tin, into which the tin wires _b_ are fastened and
+soldered.
+
+
+  ERRORS IN COOKING.
+
+Ignorance produces abuse or error, or both. Blissful ignorance may be a
+fine thing in some cases, but either in preparing or partaking of food,
+it is certainly more than an abuse, it is a dangerous error.
+
+It is by ignorance or disease that man abuses wine or any other liquor.
+
+It is by ignorance or prejudice that many eschew the best and most
+healthful of condiments, such as garlics, onions, etc. They dislike them
+on account of their pungent taste when raw, not knowing that when cooked
+it is all evaporated. Their pungent taste comes from the volatile oil
+they contain, and which evaporates in cooking; it cannot be retained,
+but their sugar is retained, and gives such a good flavor to gravies and
+sauces.
+
+
+  FENNEL.
+
+This is said to be a native of the Canary Islands; it has a very strong
+taste, and is used as a spice, especially in blood pudding. The Romans
+used a great deal of it.
+
+
+  FIG.
+
+The fig-tree comes from Mesopotamia. Figs are generally served as
+_hors-d'oeuvre_, or used in puddings, etc.
+
+
+  FINES HERBES.
+
+Parsley and cives chopped fine, and used for omelets, or with cold meat,
+sauces, etc., are called thus.
+
+
+  FLOUR.
+
+In cooking, new flour is not as good as old; it does not thicken as well
+and as fast.
+
+
+  FOIES GRAS.
+
+_Foies_, or _pates de foies gras_ are made with geese-livers, fresh fat
+pork, truffles, ham, _fines herbes_, and spices.
+
+They are always served cold as a _releve_ or _entree_, but most
+generally they are used for lunch or supper.
+
+
+  FRUIT-CORER.
+
+There are many sizes in the set, to core from a pineapple to a cherry.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+  GALANTINE.
+
+The word galantine means a _boned bird_, or a boned shoulder of veal.
+
+
+  GLAZING.
+
+Glazing is generally done by means of a brush or with feathers. A beaten
+egg, or syrup, or jelly, or egg and sugar, etc., are used to glaze
+cakes, etc. It is done by dipping the brush into the egg or jelly, and
+by spreading it on the cake or other object before baking or before
+serving, as directed in the different receipts. It is also done by
+sifting powdered sugar on cakes which are put back in the oven for a
+short time--that is, the time necessary to melt the sugar.
+
+
+  INDIGESTION.
+
+A cup of tea and camomile, half of each, with a few drops of
+orange-flower water, and the whole well sweetened and taken warm, is
+very good after having eaten something difficult to digest.
+
+
+  ITALIAN PASTES.
+
+Macaroni, vermicelli, and the like dry pastes, are called Italian
+pastes, whatever the shape--round, oval, or star-like.
+
+
+  ISINGLASS.
+
+It is sometimes used instead of gelatine to make jellies.
+
+
+  JELLY-BAG.
+
+Make a conical bag of good white flannel, about twenty inches long,
+fifteen inches broad at one end when spread on a flat surface, or about
+thirty inches in circumference, the other end being the point. Sew to it
+four pieces of white tape at the large end, and at equal distances, so
+that two sticks may be run into them. The sticks are placed on chairs or
+something else, in order to have the point of the bag about one foot
+from the floor. It is then ready to pass the jellies through it.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+  KITCHEN UTENSILS.
+
+Gastronomists use, in preference to any thing else, crockery or earthen
+pans; or, for want of these, block-tin pans.
+
+Copper is, in the end, the cheapest of all; but American cooks do not
+like them because they require too much care and must be examined every
+day; to prevent any accident, it is necessary to keep the inside
+properly lined.
+
+Many indispositions are caused by food prepared in copper not properly
+lined; even food allowed to cool in a well-lined pan would be dangerous.
+
+Pans lined with porcelain are excellent, but the trouble with them is,
+that they crack, and after that cannot be cleaned; something will
+always remain between the lining and the iron, and spoil every thing
+cooked in them.
+
+The tin-lined are preferable, on account of being easily cleaned by
+means of a small birch-broom, washing-soda, and boiling water.
+
+
+  LAIT DE POULE.
+
+Mix well in a tumbler a yolk of egg and a teaspoonful of sugar; then add
+a few drops of orange-flower water (_eau de fleur d'oranger_); pour
+boiling water on the whole, little by little, stirring the while, and
+drink warm.
+
+The quantity of water is according to taste.
+
+A gill of water to a yolk of egg makes it thick enough.
+
+It makes an excellent drink, to be taken just before retiring, for
+persons with cough.
+
+
+  LARD.
+
+Never buy lard ready made if you can help it, but take hog's fat, the
+part enveloping the kidneys, or leaf lard, and chop it fine, put it in a
+cast-iron or crockery kettle with a bay-leaf and a stalk of thyme to
+every two pounds of fat; set on a moderate fire, and as soon as it
+begins to melt, take the melted part out with a ladle, and put it in a
+stone jar or pot; be careful not to take any pieces of fat not yet
+melted. Continue that process till it is all melted.
+
+The dry or hard part that remains at the bottom of the kettle when done
+is no good.
+
+Lard made thus is as white as snow, and may be kept a long time.
+
+When there is water in lard, it flies all over the fire; in that case,
+boil it a few minutes with a cover on the pan, and then use.
+
+
+  FAT FOR FRYING.
+
+Take beef suet, the part around the kidneys, or any kind of fat, raw or
+cooked; remove as much as possible fibres, nerves, thin skin, or bones;
+chop it fine, put it in a cast-iron or crockery kettle; add to it the
+fat you may have skimmed from the top of broth, sauces or, gravies. Set
+the pan on a moderate fire; boil gently for about fifteen minutes, skim
+it well during the process; take from the fire, let it stand about five
+minutes, and then strain.
+
+Put it in a stone jar or pot, and keep it in a dry and cool place. Cover
+the jar when perfectly cold.
+
+It is as good as lard and more handy; it does not fly over the pan like
+lard.
+
+A careful cook seldom buys fat; generally there is enough coming from
+skimming of broth, sauces, and gravies, for every purpose.
+
+
+  TO CLARIFY FAT.
+
+Set the fat on a moderate fire in a pan, and as soon as it commences to
+boil, place a slice of bread dried in the oven in it, boil gently for
+about half an hour; take from the fire, let it settle for a few minutes;
+remove the bread, turn gently into a jar or pot, leaving the dregs in
+the pan.
+
+_Chicken_, _Turkey_, _and Goose Fat._--The fat of the above birds is
+never used to fry, but to _saute_ instead of butter. To make omelets it
+is excellent; an omelet is whiter and more sightly made with chicken-fat
+than when made with butter. It is clarified as directed above.
+
+
+  GAME-FAT.
+
+Game-fat can be used instead of other fat and also instead of butter, to
+_saute_, or what is generally called partly fry, game; it may also be
+used, instead of butter to bake game.
+
+It must be clarified longer than other fat, but in the same way.
+
+The boiling of fat with water, as indicated in some cook-books, is only
+a fancy and extra work, it has no effect whatever on the fat. It is the
+same by keeping it for hours in a _bain-marie_; it does not change it in
+the least.
+
+
+  BATTER FOR FRYING.
+
+_For frying Vegetables._--Put three tablespoonfuls of flour in a bowl
+with two yolks of eggs, and cold water enough to make a kind of thin
+paste, then add salt and half a teaspoonful of sweet oil; mix well. Beat
+the two whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and mix them with the rest.
+Put the batter away in a cold place for at least two hours, and use.
+
+It must not be put away longer than for half a day.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as above in every particular, except that you use
+milk instead of water.
+
+_For frying Fish._--Make it exactly as the above, except that you do not
+use any oil.
+
+_For frying Fritters._--Mix well together in a bowl three tablespoonfuls
+of flour with two yolks of eggs and cold water enough to make a thin
+paste; add a pinch of sugar, rum or brandy, or any other liquor,
+according to taste, from one to three or four tablespoonfuls, mix well
+again, and put away for at least two or three hours, but not longer than
+twelve hours.
+
+_Eggs and Crumbs for frying._--The eggs are beaten as for omelets, with
+a little salt. The objects to be fried are dipped in the eggs first,
+then rolled in bread-crumbs and fried.
+
+_Another._--When rolled in bread-crumbs as above; dip again in the eggs,
+roll again in bread-crumbs and fry.
+
+_Another._--Dip the object in melted butter, then in eggs, and roll in
+bread-crumbs; fry.
+
+
+  LARDING.
+
+All pork-butchers sell salt pork for larding. Cut it in slices and then
+by cutting the slices across it makes square strips or fillets.
+
+The strips must be of a proper size to be easily inserted into the
+larding-needle, and are about two inches and a half long.
+
+When the needle is run half way through the meat, insert the salt pork
+into it, pull the needle off and leave the salt pork inside of the meat,
+both ends of it sticking out.
+
+If it were running through, that is, if the salt pork were pulled off
+with the needle, most likely the strips are too small; then pull slowly,
+and when the salt pork is far enough into the meat, press on it with the
+finger and pull the needle, it will then stay in its proper place. It is
+better to cut a few strips first and try if they are of a proper size.
+
+If, in pulling off the needle, the salt pork does not enter the meat,
+the strips are too large.
+
+If the strips are of a proper size and break while pulling the needle
+off, then the pork is not good.
+
+_Fricandeau_, sweetbreads, birds, etc., are larded in the same way.
+
+For beef _a la mode_, it is described in the receipt.
+
+
+  LARDING-NEEDLE.
+
+The best are made of brass. Those that are sold for steel are generally
+of iron, and break easily.
+
+Those for beef _a la mode_ are of steel, and must be flat near the
+point, in order to cut the meat.
+
+
+  LEAVEN.
+
+Knead four ounces of flour with baker's yeast, enough to make a rather
+thick dough; give it the shape of a rather flat apple; with a sharp
+knife make two cuts on the top and across, and through about one-third
+of the paste; put the paste in a pan of lukewarm water. In a few minutes
+it will float; take it off and use then after it has floated about two
+minutes.
+
+
+  MEAT.
+
+The time it takes to cook meat depends as much on the quality of the
+meat as on the fire. Some persons like meat more done than others; in
+many cases you must consult your own taste or that of your guests.
+
+Beef, lamb, mutton, and game, may be eaten rather underdone, according
+to taste; domestic fowls must be properly cooked; but pork and veal must
+always be overdone, or else it is very unwholesome, if not dangerous.
+
+The following table may be used as a guide:
+
+  Bear and Buffalo,                      a five-pound piece,    5 to 7 hrs.
+  Wild Boar and Woodchuck,                     Do.    do.       3 to 4 hrs.
+  Beef,                                        Do.    do.       1 hr. 30 m.
+   Do.                                   a ten pound piece,     2 hrs. 30 m.
+  Capon,                                 a large one,           1 hour.
+  Chicken,                               a middling-sized one, 45 min.
+  Duck,                                  a large one,          45 min.
+   Do.                                   a small one,          30 min.
+  Goose,                                 a large one,           2 hours.
+   Do.                                   a small one,           1 hr. 30 m.
+  Grouse, Heathcock, Snipe, and W'dcock, a fat one,            30 min.
+   Do.         do.    do.         do.    a lean one,           20 min.
+  Guinea Fowl,                           a middling-sized one,  1 hour.
+  Hare,                                  an old one,            1 hr. 30 m.
+   Do.                                   a young one,           about 1 hr.
+  Lamb and Kid,                          a large quarter,       1 hour.
+   Do.    do.                            a small one,          45 min.
+  Mutton,                                a four-pound piece,    1 hour.
+   Do.                                   a six    "     "       1 hr. 30 m.
+  Partridge, Pheasant, and Prairie-Hen,  a middling-sized one, 30 to 45 m.
+  Pigeon,                                one,                  30 min.
+  Pork,                                  a two-pound piece,     1 hr. 15 m.
+   Do.                                   a four    "    "       2 hours.
+  Quail,                                 one,                  20 min.
+  Sucking-Pig,                           a large one,           2 hrs. 30 m.
+   Do.    do.                            a small one,           2 hours.
+  Rabbit,                                a middling-sized one, 30 to 45 min.
+  Robin, Blackbird, Fig-pecker,
+  High-holder, Lapwing, Meadow Lark,
+  Plover, Reed-bird, Thrush,
+  Yellow-bird, and other small birds,                          15 to 20 min.
+  Turkey,                                a large one,           1 hr. 30 m.
+   Do.                                   a small one,           about 1 hour.
+  Veal,                                  a two-pound piece,     1 hr. 15 m.
+  Venison,                               a four    "    "       about 1 hour.
+
+The following table may be used as a guide to know how long meat may be
+kept, in a cool, dry, and dark place; and protected from flies or other
+insects:
+
+                                                In Summer.    In Winter.
+
+  Bear and Buffalo,                             3 to 4 days.    10 to 15 days.
+  Wild Boar and Woodchuck,                      3 to 4    "      8 to 10    "
+  Beef and Pork,                                2 to 4    "      6 to 10    "
+  Capon,                                        2 to 3    "      4 to  8    "
+  Chicken, old one,                             3 to 4    "      4 to 10    "
+  Do.    young one,                             1 to 2    "      2 to  6    "
+  Deer, Partridge, Pheasant, Prairie-Hen, Quail,
+  Guinea-Fowl, and Turkey,                      2 to 3    "      6 to 10    "
+  Duck and Goose,                               3 to 4    "      4 to  8    "
+  Hare and Rabbit,                              2 to 3    "      4 to  8    "
+  Grouse, Heathcock, Snipe, and Woodcock,       3 to 4    "      8 to 15    "
+  Lamb, Kid, Sucking Pig, and Veal,             2 to 3    "      3 to  6    "
+  Mutton,                                       2 to 3    "      6 to 10    "
+  Pigeons, Blackbirds, Fig-peckers, High-holders,
+  Lapwings, Meadow Larks,
+  Plovers, Reed-birds, Robins, Thrushes,
+  Yellow-birds, and other small birds,          2 to 3    "      6 to 10    "
+
+The time must be reduced one-half in summer, in stormy or damp weather,
+and one-third in winter, in thawing or rainy weather.
+
+_Fish._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, place it in a crockery
+stewpan, cover it with cold water, add a little salt, two or three
+sprigs of thyme, and one or two bay-leaves. It will keep thus for some
+time.
+
+
+  MOULDS.
+
+_Mould for Meat Pies._--A mould for meat pies may be round or oval; it
+must be in two pieces, fastened together by a kind of hinge. When the
+pie is baked, the wire pin holding the mould is pulled, and the mould
+removed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Mould for Pies_, _Jellies_, _etc._--This mould may be used for any
+thing that requires a mould; it may also be round, oval, or of any other
+shape.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+  OLIVES.
+
+Fresh and ripe they are served as dessert with other fruit. Preserved,
+they are served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, and used to flavor and decorate
+different dishes.
+
+Olives as well as sardines are healthful and considered one of the best
+_hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+
+  OSMAZOME.
+
+Osmazome is found in beef, mutton, full-grown domestic fowls, venison,
+and game; in the latter, when the bird or animal is adult.
+
+In meat soup, the osmazome is the soluble part of the meat that
+dissolves in boiling, and makes nutritious broth.
+
+In broiled or roasted pieces, it is that part which makes a kind of
+brown crust on the surface of the meat, and also the brownish part of
+the gravy.
+
+Chicken, lamb, sucking-pig, veal, etc., do not contain any osmazome.
+
+
+  PARSLEY, CHERVIL, THYME, CELERY, SAGE, ETC.,--FOR WINTER USE.
+
+Hang in the shade, under a shed, or in a garret, and in a clean and dry
+place, some small bunches of parsley, chervil, celery, etc., the roots
+upward; leave them thus till perfectly dry, then place them in your
+spice-box for winter use.
+
+The best time for drying them is at the end of October or the beginning
+of November; dig them up in fine and dry weather, so as to have them
+clean without washing.
+
+Soak in cold water half an hour before using.
+
+
+  WHITE PEPPER.
+
+This is black pepper decorticated.
+
+Put peppercorns in a bowl, cover with cold water, and leave thus till
+the skin is tender; then drain. Take the skin off, let it dry, grind it;
+place with your other spices, and use where directed. It takes many days
+for the skin to become tender.
+
+
+  QUALITY OF MEAT, FISH, VEGETABLES, FRUIT, ETC.
+
+The quality of meat depends entirely on the quality of food with which
+the animal has been fed.
+
+For fish, the taste or quality is according to the kind of water in
+which they have lived; fish from a muddy pond smell of mud, while fish
+from a clear brook are delicious.
+
+The same difference exists in vegetables and fruit; their quality is
+according to the quality or nature of the ground in which they have been
+grown.
+
+
+  PASTRY-BAG.
+
+A bag for pastry is made with thick, strong linen; of a conical shape,
+about one foot long, eight inches broad at one end when spread on a flat
+surface, and which makes about sixteen inches in circumference, and only
+one inch and a quarter at the other end, and in which latter end a tin
+tube is placed, so that the smaller end of the tin tube will come out of
+the smaller end of the bag. Putting then some mixture into the bag and
+by pressing from the upper end downward, the mixture will come out of
+the tin tube.
+
+
+  RAW MATERIALS.
+
+If American cookery is inferior to any other generally, it is not on
+account of a want of the first two requisites--raw materials and money
+to buy them; so there is no excuse for it, both are given to the cooks.
+
+Here, where markets rival the best markets of Europe and even surpass
+them in abundance, it is really a pity to live as many do live.
+
+
+  SCALLOPED KNIFE.
+
+This knife is used to cut beets, carrots, turnip-rooted celery,
+potatoes, radishes, and turnips; in slices, round, oblong, or of any
+other shape; either to decorate dishes, or to be served alone or with
+something else, or to be fried.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The annexed cuts will give an idea of what can be done with it. It is
+understood that the vegetables are peeled first.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+  SHALLOTS.
+
+Shallots come from Syria. Shallot is stronger than garlic and onion; a
+real Tartar sauce cannot be made without shallot. The small, green onion
+is a good substitute for it.
+
+
+  SKEWERS.
+
+The cuts below are skewers. The common ones are used to fasten pieces of
+meat together; to roast or bake small birds, liver in _brochette_, etc.,
+etc.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Those to decorate are only used with different flowers or vegetables,
+and stuck inside of different pieces of meat as a decoration. They are
+removed just before carving.
+
+The use of them is explained in the different receipts. They may be
+different from those seen in the cuts.
+
+
+  SPICES.
+
+The cooks of this country generally have a queer idea of what they call
+French cookery and French spices.
+
+Some honestly believe that to make a French dish a great deal of pepper
+and other strong seasonings must be put in.
+
+Many other persons, who have not been in Europe, really believe also,
+that French cookery is what is called highly-seasoned. There never was a
+greater mistake.
+
+If French cooks use several kinds of spices, and may-be more than
+American cooks, they are not the same; or if some are the same, such as
+pepper, they use them in much smaller proportions.
+
+They generally use thyme, parsley, bay-leaf, chervil, tarragon, etc.,
+which are aromatic; but never use (in this climate) ginger, curry,
+cayenne pepper, pimento, catsups, variegated colored pickles made with
+pyroligneous acids, etc., and which are very exciting and irritating.
+
+Some of our readers may naturally ask: How is it that French cookery is
+believed by many to be the contrary of what it really is?
+
+Because every eating-house, of no matter what size, pretends to be a
+first-rate one or a fashionable one--and to be first-rate or fashionable
+must, as a matter of course, have French cooks, or at least cook French
+dishes.
+
+You enter the place, ask for a French dish; or, ask if you can have such
+a dish, _a la Francaise_?
+
+You are politely and emphatically answered in the affirmative; and very
+often the polite waiter says that a French cook presides in the kitchen.
+
+Result!--the cook, be he from the Green Isle or of African descent,
+receiving the order to prepare a French dish, puts a handful of pepper
+in the already too much peppered, old-fashioned prepared dish, and sends
+it to the confident customer as a genuine French dish.
+
+Said customer never asks a second time for a French dish, and pronounces
+French cookery to be--abominable!
+
+
+  STIRRING.
+
+Never use any spoon but a wooden one to stir any thing on the fire or in
+a warm state.
+
+
+  STRAINING.
+
+To strain, is to pass a sauce or any thing else through a sieve, a
+strainer, or a piece of cloth, in order to have it freed from particles
+of every kind.
+
+Broth is strained to make soup, so as to remove the small pieces of
+bones that may be in it, etc.
+
+
+  SUGAR.
+
+Sugar plays a very important part in cooking. It is added to cereals,
+vegetables, and fruit, many of which would almost be unpalatable without
+it, and which are rendered not only palatable but wholesome by its
+action.
+
+It is the sugar of the carrot and that of the onion, or of the garlic,
+that gives such a peculiar and delicious flavor to gravies and sauces,
+to _beef a la mode_, _fricandeau_, etc.
+
+_Pulverized._--When pulverized or powdered sugar can be had pure, it
+saves the trouble to do it; but often there are foreign matters in it
+and therefore it is better to make it; you know then what you have.
+
+Break loaf sugar into small lumps, pound it and sift it. With a fine
+sieve, you can make it as fine as you please.
+
+It was not used in Europe until about the middle of the seventeenth
+century.
+
+For the cooking of sugar, see Preserves.
+
+
+  TARRAGON.
+
+The French name of tarragon is _estragon_. It is excellent in vinegar
+and in many fish sauces. It is aromatic, sudorific, and stomachic, and
+grows very well in this country. It grows at least twice as large here
+as in Europe.
+
+
+  TIN TUBES.
+
+These tubes are put in the pastry-bag, at the smaller end of it, to make
+_meringues_, ladies' fingers, etc.; they are of tin, and can be made by
+any tinsmith.
+
+They have the shape of a trapezoid or frustum. Two are enough for any
+purpose.
+
+No. 1. One inch and a half long; one inch and three-eighths in diameter
+at one end, and nine-sixteenths of an inch at the other end.
+
+No. 2. One inch and a half long; one inch and a half in diameter at one
+end, and six-eighths of an inch at the other.
+
+
+  TRUFFLES.
+
+Truffles are found in Europe and Africa, where they were first
+discovered.
+
+The truffle is neither an animal nor a vegetable, although it has been
+classed among the fungi, which has root, and the truffle has neither
+root nor stem.
+
+The truffle is used for stuffing and flavoring only otherwise it is not
+of much value. On account of their scarcity, and the difficulty in
+finding them, they are rather costly.
+
+We think truffles may be compared to lace--both are dear, and neither
+has an intrinsic value.
+
+
+  VANILLA.
+
+Is a native of America, extensively used for seasoning creams, pastry,
+etc., to which it gives a delicious flavor.
+
+Although a native of America, all the extracts of vanilla, as well as
+others, were formerly imported; but within a few years Americans have
+found out that they are able to distil also, and "Burnett's Extract of
+Vanilla" is better known to-day all over the country than any other.
+
+
+  VEGETABLE SPOONS.
+
+Vegetable spoons are used to cut potatoes, carrots, and turnips; there
+are different shapes, round, oval, carrot-shape, plain, and scalloped.
+We give here only two, being sufficient to explain their use.
+
+The first (_a_) is of an oval shape, and makes the cut _c_; the second
+(_b_) is round, and makes the cut _d_.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+When the vegetable is peeled, place the spoon on it, the convex side up;
+holding the vegetable in your left hand, press on the spoon with your
+left thumb, and in order to cause it to cut the vegetable while turning
+it with the right hand, first half way or rather when the half of it is
+inside of the vegetable, stop, turn it the other way, causing it to cut
+the vegetable also, then raise it up without turning at all and you
+have in the spoon a piece of vegetable of the shape of the spoon, and as
+seen in the cuts.
+
+
+  WATER.
+
+Rain-water is for cooking purposes, as for other purposes, the best, but
+is seldom used, especially in large cities, where it is difficult to
+procure it. Another difficulty is, when procured it soon gets foul.
+
+The next best is river-water, or water from lakes.
+
+By boiling, water evaporates its gases and alkali, and is inferior
+afterward for cooking purposes, especially for boiling vegetables;
+therefore, we earnestly recommend to use the water at the first boiling.
+
+When foul water has to be used for want of other, if no filter,
+charcoal, sand, or paper can be had to filter it, it will improve by
+boiling it and then exposing it to the air for some time.
+
+
+  WINES.
+
+Native wines, when pure, are just as good as any other for cooking
+purposes.
+
+It is wrong and a great mistake to underrate native wines; they have a
+little more acerbity than foreign wines, but are not inferior. It cannot
+be otherwise, being grown in a virgin soil, or nearly so. The richer the
+soil or the younger the vineyard, the more acid the wine.
+
+Cold nights during the ripening of the fruit make the wine more acid,
+not ripening so perfectly.
+
+Wine is a healthy drink, and many invalids would recover much quicker by
+a judicious use of it.
+
+Different wines are used in cooking, and we give the names of the best
+ones in the different receipts.
+
+A little vinegar may be used as a substitute for wine, but it is very
+inferior, and in many dishes it cannot be used at all.
+
+A few dollars spent during the year in wine for cooking purposes, makes
+much better and more wholesome dishes.
+
+White wine contains little tannin; it retains nitrogenous matters, and
+is free from essential oils; hence the superior flavor and quality of
+brandy made with white wines.
+
+It is more aperient and less nutritive than red wine.
+
+Essential oils pass in red wine while it is fermenting.
+
+Wine and sugar with certain fruits are excellent, and are known to
+neutralize the crudity of the fruit, such as straw-berries, pears,
+peaches, currants, etc.
+
+
+  MOTTO.
+
+The motto of the New York Cooking Academy is--
+
+_Since we must eat to live, let us prepare our food in such a manner,
+that our physical, intellectual, and moral capacities may be extended as
+far as is designed by our CREATOR._
+
+
+
+
+  DIVERS RECEIPTS.
+
+
+  ALMONDS.
+
+Two kinds are used in cooking, the sweet and the bitter.
+
+They are shelled first, then by pouring boiling water on them and
+leaving them in it for two or three minutes, they are easily skinned.
+
+They are sometimes used as soon as skinned, and sometimes dried after
+being skinned and just before using.
+
+When wanted dried, place them in a pan in a slow oven with the door
+open, and turn them occasionally.
+
+
+  LEMONADE OR ORANGEADE.
+
+Put two ounces of loaf sugar in a quart of water, also the rind of an
+orange or one of lemon. Half an hour after strain the whole, and press
+into it the juice of the orange, and a few drops of lemon-juice. If
+found too strong, add water and sugar. It is a very good drink in
+summer, or for evening parties. A little currant jelly may be added to
+make a variety.
+
+
+  LEMONADE WITH BARLEY.
+
+To the above lemonade or orangeade you add, instead of water and sugar,
+some barley-water and sugar; it is very good and very refreshing.
+
+Barley-water is made by soaking in lukewarm water a pint of barley,
+drain it two or three minutes after; put the barley in a crockery pan,
+cover it with cold water (about three quarts), set it on the fire, and
+boil till the barley is perfectly cooked; skim off the scum during the
+cooking, drain, let cool, and use the water.
+
+
+  BARLEY SUGAR FOR CHILDREN.
+
+Soak a quart of barley in lukewarm water for two or three minutes, and
+drain. Put the barley in a crockery stewpan, with four or five quarts of
+water, and set it on a good fire, boil till the barley is overdone, and
+then take from the fire, mash it as well as possible and strain,
+throwing away what there is in the strainer, and if the remainder does
+not make a kind of jelly when cool, the barley has not been boiled
+enough.
+
+Mix that jelly with sugar and fry it; it is better than any other candy,
+barley being refreshing, and the principal substance of it.
+
+
+  BAVAROISE WITH CHOCOLATE.
+
+Put in a tin pan a pint of milk, with one ounce of chocolate, and two of
+sugar; set it over the fire, but do not allow it to boil; stir well with
+a wooden spoon during the process, and when the whole is well mixed,
+serve warm in cups.
+
+It is an excellent and wholesome drink in the evening.
+
+_The same with Coffee or Tea._--Proceed as above in every particular,
+except that you put in the pan a small cup of coffee or tea instead of
+chocolate, and a little more sugar.
+
+
+  BICHOF.
+
+Put in a crockery tureen two bottles of white wine, with an orange and a
+lemon, both cut in slices; cover, and place it in a warm place for about
+ten hours; then strain into a vessel, and mix well with the liquor
+about a pound of loaf sugar, and a little grated cinnamon.
+
+It may be served warm or cold.
+
+_Another way._--Melt a pound of loaf sugar in half a pint of cold water,
+and then mix with it two bottles of white wine, a pinch of grated
+cinnamon, the juice of an orange, and that of a lemon, and use. It takes
+only a few minutes to make it.
+
+If found too strong, add water and sugar.
+
+
+  TO PRESERVE BIRDS.
+
+Broil or roast, according to our directions, chickens, ducks, geese,
+turkeys, partridges, pheasants, prairie hens, quails, etc.; then carve
+them; take the bones out of the pieces, place them in a crockery pot,
+which you fill with melted butter or lard, and cover well when cold.
+Place the pot in a cool and dry place, and they will keep for months.
+
+When you wish to eat them, take out the quantity you want, and place it
+in a frying-pan, with the butter or lard that is around; fry till warm,
+and serve.
+
+
+  BREAD-CRUMBS.
+
+Put slices of stale bread in a slow oven till they are perfectly dried
+up. Break them in pieces and reduce them to coarse powder with a rolling
+pin; sift them, and they are ready for use.
+
+Bread-crumbs are better than cracker-crumbs; the latter, when reduced to
+powder, are too floury, and besides, there is always stale bread enough
+in a kitchen to make crumbs.
+
+The above crumbs are rather brown.
+
+_White crumbs._--Cut in rather large dice the soft part of stale bread,
+put the pieces in a new and coarse towel, rub between the hands so as
+to reduce the pieces of bread to crumbs; pass through a colander or
+through a sieve, according to need, coarse or fine, and use.
+
+
+  BURNT SUGAR.
+
+Take an old tin ladle and place it over a sharp fire, with two ounces of
+loaf sugar in it; stir with a stick or skewer till it is thoroughly
+black and burnt. Then add, little by little, about one gill of water;
+stir a little, boil about four minutes, but not fast, lest it should
+boil over the ladle; strain, and it is made.
+
+As soon as cold, bottle it and use when wanted.
+
+It keeps any length of time.
+
+It is used to color broth, sauces, gravies, etc.
+
+It is called _caramel_ in French.
+
+
+  COFFEE.
+
+It is simple to make coffee. Of course, when properly made, with good
+berries, the liquor is good.
+
+When good roasted coffee can be bought, it saves the trouble of roasting
+it, and is, or rather ought to be, cheaper than it can be done in a
+family.
+
+If coffee is roasted a long time before being used it loses much of its
+aroma, therefore a family ought not to roast more than it can use in
+about a week, while twenty or twenty-five pounds can be roasted at one
+time and by one person.
+
+Three or four different kinds, roasted separately, and properly mixed,
+make better coffee than one kind alone.
+
+A good proportion is: to one pound of Java add about four ounces of
+Mocha, and four ounces of one or two other kinds.
+
+Good coffee, as well as tea, is said to possess exhilarating
+properties.
+
+Its use was not known in Europe before 1650. Neither was the use of
+sugar, tobacco, and brandy.
+
+Good coffee cannot be made but by leaching.
+
+The easiest utensil is what is called a filter, or coffee-pot, or
+biggin, according to locality, with a top to diffuse the water.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The coffee-pot called "the French balance" makes the best-flavored
+coffee, but it is an expensive one.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There are several good filters, but the great majority or the people
+find them too complicated for daily use.
+
+The bottom of the filter should be of silvered brass-gauze instead of
+perforated tin, as it is generally.
+
+Gauze-holes being much smaller than those of perforated tin, the coffee
+can be ground much finer, and therefore, all the strength and aroma can
+be had; while if ground coarse, it is utterly impossible.
+
+Good coffee cannot be made in a utensil often but wrongly called a
+_coffee-pot_, which is nothing but a pot, and something like a tea-pot.
+
+With such a utensil, the grounds must be boiled; and as no liquor can be
+boiled without allowing the steam to escape (the steam made by boiling
+coffee being its aroma), therefore the best part of the coffee is
+evaporated before it is served.
+
+Never grind your coffee until ready to make it.
+
+No matter how air-tight you keep it, the aroma evaporates or is
+absorbed.
+
+Coffee can be ground and made as soon as cool; but it is better to let
+it stand for about twenty-four hours after being roasted.
+
+If kept as air-tight as possible in a tin-box, it will keep very well
+for about a week.
+
+Never buy ground coffee except when you cannot help it.
+
+By taking a pinch of ground coffee and rolling it between wetted
+fingers, it will remain in grains, if pure; and will form in a ball if
+foreign matters are mixed with it.
+
+
+  TO ROAST.
+
+In roasting, good coffee swells about thirty-three per cent., and loses
+about sixteen per cent. in weight.
+
+Roast once a week or oftener.
+
+Put coffee in the apparatus (cylinder, or drum, or roaster), the
+quantity to be according to the size of the roaster, or according to how
+much is needed. Have a rather slow fire at first; when the coffee has
+swollen, augment the fire, turning, shaking, tossing the roaster,
+sometimes fast, sometimes slowly, and take from the fire a little
+before it is roasted enough; the roasting will be finished before the
+coffee gets cold and before taking it from the roaster, which you
+continue turning and shaking as if it were yet on the fire.
+
+A charcoal fire is the handiest, and more easily regulated.
+
+It is well roasted when it evaporates a pleasing odor and when of a
+brownish color.
+
+Then take it from the roaster, spread it on a matting or on a piece of
+cloth, and put it in a tin-box as soon as cold.
+
+It is exceedingly difficult, if not utterly impossible, to roast coffee
+properly by machinery, and for two reasons: in the first place, there is
+too much of it in the cylinder to roast evenly, some berries are burned,
+others not roasted enough; the other is, that being turned by machinery,
+the cylinder is turned regularly and is neither shaken nor tossed; and
+even if there were not too much coffee in it, some berries would be much
+more roasted than others.
+
+
+  TO MAKE.
+
+Set a kettle of cold water on the fire. Place the ground coffee in the
+filter, and as soon as the water begins to boil, pour just enough of it
+over the coffee to wet it. Put the kettle back on the fire, and again,
+at the first boiling, pour it over the coffee rather slowly, and till
+you have poured enough water to furnish the quantity of coffee required.
+
+If the water does not pass through fast enough, just stop pouring for a
+few seconds, that is, long enough to put the kettle back on the fire and
+start the boiling again. As soon as the water has passed through, the
+coffee is made. The quantity of coffee must be according to the strength
+you wish it, and the quantity wanted, or according to age and
+constitution.
+
+Four teaspoonfuls make a quart of very good coffee for breakfast. It
+would be rather strong for children, but can be diluted to a proper
+state with milk.
+
+No matter what quantity of coffee is put in the filter, the liquor must
+be clear; the more is used, the blacker the substance is, but it must
+never be muddy. If muddy at all, be sure you have not used good coffee.
+
+One pound of good coffee to a quart of water, should make black but
+clear coffee.
+
+
+  CAFE AU LAIT.
+
+This is coffee and milk for breakfast. The milk is set on the fire in a
+tin saucepan, and taken off when it rises; then mixed with the coffee,
+either in the cup or any kind of vessel. The proportions are pint for
+pint.
+
+
+  CAFE NOIR.
+
+_Cafe noir_ is the name given to the coffee taken after dinner. It is
+generally made rather strong. Gentlemen sometimes put liquor in it--a
+glass of brandy, or rum, or kirschwasser; and ladies, a little cold
+milk.
+
+Taken fifteen or twenty minutes after dinner, it helps digestion. It
+excites the faculties of the mind, and gives what physiologists call
+"agreeable sensations."
+
+Coffee is nutritious, and to a certain extent prevents waste of the
+system.
+
+
+  CHOCOLATE.
+
+The quantity of chocolate for a certain quantity of milk is according to
+taste. Two ounces of chocolate make a good cup of it, and rather thick.
+
+Break the chocolate in pieces, put it in a tin saucepan with a
+tablespoonful of water to an ounce of chocolate, and set it on a rather
+slow fire. Stir now and then till thoroughly melted.
+
+While the chocolate is melting, set the quantity of milk desired in
+another tin saucepan on the fire, and as soon as it rises and when the
+chocolate is melted, as directed above, turn the milk into the
+chocolate, little by little, beating well at the same time with an
+egg-beater. Keep beating and boiling after being mixed, for three or
+four minutes; take off and serve.
+
+If both chocolate and milk are good, it will be frothy; and no better or
+more nutritious drink can be had.
+
+
+  CHOCA.
+
+Choca is nothing more nor less than one cup of coffee and milk mixed
+with a cup of chocolate, and for breakfast.
+
+
+  COCOA.
+
+Put in a tea or coffee cup one or two tablespoonfuls of ground cocoa,
+pour boiling water or boiling milk on it, little by little, stirring
+with a spoon the while; sweeten it to taste. A few drops of essence of
+vanilla may be added, according to taste.
+
+
+  ESSENCE OF SPINACH, OR GREEN ESSENCE.
+
+Put two handfuls of very green and fresh spinach in a mortar and pound
+it well. Then put it in a saucepan, set on a rather slow fire, and when
+on the point of boiling take it off, pass it through a sieve and use. It
+may be kept for some time with a little sugar.
+
+
+  ESSENCE OF BEEF.
+
+The essence of beef of commerce is well known.
+
+To make essence of beef used in cooking and called _glace_ in French,
+set three or four quarts of broth on a slow fire, in a saucepan and
+reduce it to jelly. Keep it simmering all the time; it may take twenty
+hours to reduce. When properly reduced, it is of a very dark-brown
+color and has a very pleasant odor.
+
+When cold, it must be rather hard.
+
+When essence of beef tastes like glue and has an unpleasant odor, it is
+not made properly, or with good beef.
+
+If properly made, it will keep any length of time.
+
+It is used to thicken sauces, to decorate boned birds, etc.; when in a
+hurry, it may be used to make soup, but, like every thing preserved, is
+of course inferior to fresh broth.
+
+
+  ICING.
+
+Put about three tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar in a bowl with the
+white of a small egg; and then mix and work well for at least five
+minutes with a piece of wood. When done it is perfectly white and rather
+thick.
+
+Make a kind of funnel with thick, white paper; put the mixture in it,
+and by squeezing it out, you make decorations according to fancy, on
+cakes, charlotte russe, etc. You make the decorations of the size you
+please, by cutting the smaller end of the paper-funnel of the size you
+wish.
+
+The mixture may also be spread on cakes with a knife, according to what
+kind of decoration is desired.
+
+A charlotte russe may be decorated in the same way, with the same cream
+as that used to fill it.
+
+
+  MEAT JELLIES.
+
+Put in a saucepan two ounces of gelatine with three eggs and shells, a
+tablespoonful of salt, the rind of half a lemon, a liquor-glass of rum
+or brandy, or a wine-glass of sherry, port, or madeira wine; mix well
+the whole. Add one quart of broth, twelve pepper-corns; beat the whole
+well with an egg-beater and set on a good fire; stir gently till it
+comes to a boil; then move it on a rather slow fire; boil slowly for
+about eight minutes and turn into the jelly-bag. Have two bowls at hand
+to be used alternately; have one under the bag before turning the jelly
+into it; and when it has passed through the bag once, turn it into the
+bag again, putting the other bowl under; repeat this three or four
+times, and it will be perfectly clear. Just before turning into the bag
+the first time, a few drops of burnt sugar are added to give the jelly
+an amber color. Use the jelly immediately if wanted in liquid form, as
+to fill a meat-pie, etc., or put it on ice to congeal.
+
+_Boned-turkey Jelly._--As soon as the water in which you have boiled a
+boned turkey is cold, skim off the fat and strain it. Then proceed
+exactly as for meat jelly, except that you take one quart of the above
+instead of one quart of beef broth.
+
+_Boned-chicken Jelly._--Prepare the water in which the boned chicken has
+been cooked, the same as above; take a quart of it and proceed as for
+meat jelly for the rest.
+
+For jelly to decorate any boned bird, the water in which it has been
+cooked may be used, as described above.
+
+_Calves'-feet Jelly._--Scald well four calves' feet, and split each in
+two lengthwise. Put them in a saucepan with about three pints of water,
+two onions, two cloves, two cloves of garlic, six sprigs of parsley, one
+of thyme, a stalk of celery if handy, salt, and half a dozen
+pepper-corns. Set on the fire, boil gently till well cooked. Serve the
+feet with a _poulette_ or _vinaigrette_.
+
+Strain the liquor; put in it two eggs with their shells, salt, rum or
+wine, as in meat jelly; beat the whole well with an egg-beater; set on a
+good fire, and finish like meat jelly.
+
+_Calf's-head Jelly._--Proceed as for the above in every particular,
+except that you use four eggs, having about twice as much liquor,
+therefore making twice as much jelly. A little gelatine may be added, if
+not found firm enough.
+
+
+  MEAT GRAVY.
+
+When you are short of gravy, cut a little piece of veal, say half a
+pound of the breast or neck piece, or trimmings of veal-cutlets; set on
+the fire with about an ounce of butter, and half of a rather small
+carrot cut in slices; stir, and when the meat is turning rather brown,
+add two or three onions in slices also; stir again till the onions are
+nearly fried; when covered with broth or water, add salt, a dozen whole
+peppers, a bay-leaf, and two stalks of thyme; boil gently for two or
+three hours, and strain.
+
+If it is boiling away, add water to fill up.
+
+Trimmings of mutton, lamb, beef, chicken, or turkey, may be added to the
+veal.
+
+In case of hurry, it may be done quickly and by boiling rather fast, but
+it is not as good, and there is less of it with the same quantity of
+meat.
+
+For a grand dinner, the gravy may be made one or two and even three days
+in advance; then simmer it for five or six hours.
+
+
+  MELONS.
+
+Musk-melons are always served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, but must be eaten
+immediately after soup, or the first thing of all if no soup is served.
+
+It is a great mistake to serve melons as a dessert.
+
+Water-melons, though eaten abundantly, are considered very unwholesome
+by the great majority of doctors, chemists, and physiologists.
+
+Musk-melons are served in slices with sugar, or with salt and pepper,
+according to taste.
+
+
+  MEUNIERE.
+
+Mix well together in a cup one teaspoonful of flour with a tablespoonful
+of cold water.
+
+It is used to thicken sauces and different dishes.
+
+
+  MINT.
+
+Put four sprigs of mint into a quart of brandy, cork well, or cover
+air-tight if in a pot, and leave thus forty-eight hours; then strain
+through a cloth. Put half a pound of loaf sugar in a stewpan with a pint
+of water, set it on the fire, and, at the first boiling, pour it into
+the quart of brandy; cover with a cloth, let it cool, and again strain
+the whole through a fine cloth. Bottle and cork carefully, and use when
+wanted.
+
+A small liquor-glass of it is very good for stomach-ache; it is also
+useful after having eaten any thing difficult of digestion.
+
+
+  PANADE.
+
+Break in pieces the soft part of a small stale loaf of bread; put it in
+a tin saucepan, cover it with cold water, and leave thus about an hour;
+then mash it well, set it on the fire, add salt, butter, and sugar, to
+taste; simmer about an hour, then add again two yolks of eggs beaten
+with two tablespoonfuls of cream or milk; mix the whole well together,
+and serve.
+
+It makes an excellent food for infants.
+
+
+  PAP.
+
+Put an ounce of butter in a tin saucepan, set it on the fire, and when
+melted, turn into it two tablespoonfuls of flour, thoroughly mixed with
+half a pint of milk; stir with a wooden spoon, boil gently for about
+twelve minutes, stirring the while; take off, turn into a bowl, add salt
+and sugar to taste, and use.
+
+If wanted richer, an egg may be mixed with the flour and milk, or a yolk
+of egg may be added as soon as taken from the fire.
+
+
+  RAISINS.
+
+When the stems of raisins or of currants are removed, put them in a
+bowl, dust them well with flour, move them round a little, then turn
+them into a sieve and shake them well. This process will remove the sand
+as well as washing them, and will not take away the sweetness.
+
+
+  SANDWICHES.
+
+These are too well known to require any direction.
+
+
+  SAUSAGE-MEAT.
+
+Butchers generally, with an eye to economy, make sausage-meat of bad or
+tainted pork.
+
+We recommend our readers, as far as possible, never to buy sausage-meat
+ready made, but to make it themselves, or have it made according to
+their directions.
+
+A chopping-machine costs very little, and saves a great deal of work,
+besides chopping much better than can be done by hand.
+
+The proportions are: one pound of lean pork and one pound of lean veal,
+chopped very fine, well mixed, and both very fresh. Season with salt,
+pepper, nutmeg and clove grated, and with cinnamon, if liked.
+
+A yolk of egg may be added to a pound of meat.
+
+It may also be made with one pound of veal and half a pound or less of
+pork, or with veal only or pork only, according to taste.
+
+
+  SOUSE.
+
+Put three ounces of butter in a saucepan, and set it on the fire; when
+melted, add two carrots and two onions sliced, stir now and then till
+they begin to turn brown; then add about three pints of warm water, half
+a pint of vinegar, one clove of garlic, four sprigs of parsley, one of
+thyme, a clove, a bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, a little grated nutmeg,
+and salt. Simmer about an hour, strain, and it is ready for use.
+
+_Another._--Put two quarts of vinegar and about ten quarts of water in a
+stone or crockery vessel, with four cloves of garlic, a handful of
+parsley, six cloves, four stalks of thyme, four bay-leaves, half a
+nutmeg grated, three or four carrots, and three or four onions sliced, a
+little salt, and two dozen pepper-corns. Stir and mix the whole well,
+and it is ready for use.
+
+Pieces of mutton, beef, pork, venison, and bear-meat, may be soaked in
+one of the above preparations from four to six days before cooking them.
+A piece of tough meat will be more tender and juicy after being soaked.
+
+More or less may be made, according to the size of the piece of meat.
+
+
+  TEA.
+
+There are many ways of making tea; we might say that every one makes it
+in his own way; but, after many experiments and much information, we
+have found the following to be the best:
+
+Warm the teapot either by pouring boiling water in it and emptying it,
+or by placing it on a corner of the range.
+
+Then put good tea in it (the quantity to be according to the strength
+and also to the quantity you want), and pour boiling water on the
+leaves, just enough to wet them; leave thus about one minute, then pour
+on all the water you want.
+
+Let it steep no longer than about six minutes, and not less than four
+minutes, before drawing it.
+
+If allowed to steep longer than six minutes, all the astringency of the
+tea is extracted, and it acts and has a bad effect on the nervous
+system, besides losing most of its aroma.
+
+Chemists and physiologists generally recommend black tea, as not
+affecting the nervous system as much as green tea.
+
+Tea being naturally very astringent, should never be served at
+breakfast.
+
+Taken after dinner, instead of _cafe noir_, it has the same effect, and
+brandy may be mixed with it as in coffee.
+
+Tea is excellent in damp climates and marshy countries, but it must be
+taken after a substantial meal.
+
+Drinking warm tea while eating causes the food to pass through the
+system without nourishing it, or supplying its waste.
+
+
+  TOAST.
+
+Cut several slices of bread of even size, and spread some anchovy-butter
+on them; cut anchovies in small strips, lengthwise, lay them on the
+bread also, and then spread over some hard-boiled egg chopped fine, and
+on it some parsley also chopped fine, finish with capers here and there.
+
+Place the toast or slices of bread on a dish, tastefully arranged all
+around, a few sprigs of parsley in the middle, and you have a fine
+_hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+Sardines, Dutch herrings, or red herrings may be used the same as
+anchovies.
+
+
+  WELSH RAREBIT.
+
+This dish is not generally understood. It is thought by many to be Welsh
+rabbit, that is, a rabbit prepared _Welsh fashion_.
+
+It is not a rabbit, but Welsh cheese (a certain kind only, and prepared
+for that purpose), melted to a certain degree, and then spread on toast
+of Welsh bread.
+
+Grate some Gloucester or Gruyere cheese and pepper it with Cayenne
+pepper. Fry some slices of bread with a little butter, but on one side
+only, until perfectly yellow, then spread a thick coat of grated cheese
+on the fried side of the bread, place the slices in a baking-pan, put
+them in a pretty warm oven, take off when it begins to melt, and serve
+warm.
+
+Then you have as good a Welsh rarebit as can be made here. The receipt
+was given to us by an English lady.
+
+
+
+
+  POTAGES OR SOUPS.
+
+
+Potage is the modern word for soup, and is used in bills of fare
+everywhere.
+
+Three kinds of liquor are used to make potages: broth, milk, and water.
+
+Besides the liquor, meat, fish, and vegetables are used.
+
+The richest potages are made with _consomme_ and some other compounds;
+such as bread, Italian pastes, vegetables, etc.
+
+_Consomme_ means rich broth; literally, it means consumed, perfect, that
+is, properly reduced and partly consumed, as it is the case in making
+it. _Consomme_ is broth reduced to a certain point, according to want or
+taste.
+
+_Broth._--Broth is to good cooking what wheat is to bread. Dishes (with
+some exceptions) prepared without broth are, to those prepared with it,
+what rye or corn bread is to wheat bread. Broth, and especially
+_consomme_, are to old age what milk is to the infant. Broth is called
+_bouillon_ in France, and _stock_ in England. The word _pot-au-feu_
+means the meat, vegetables, seasonings, spices, and the "pot" or
+soup-kettle itself, _i. e._, every thing made use of in making broth.
+The popular meaning of the term in France is, the soup and the beef and
+vegetables served as _releves_; and, with the working-classes, the only
+thing (with bread, wine, and fruit) composing the family dinner. The
+French army is fed on this _pot-au-feu_ three hundred and sixty days in
+the year.
+
+It is a great mistake to believe that bones or veal make good broth; by
+boiling or simmering bones or veal, you obtain a gelatinous liquid, but
+not a rich broth with a pleasant flavor. When properly made, broth is
+clear. If milky, it has been made with bones, veal, or very inferior
+beef.
+
+_Broth for Potages._--Take three pounds of good, lean, fresh beef, from
+any part except the shin. There must not be more than two ounces of bone
+to a pound of meat, and the less bone the better. Place the meat in a
+soup-kettle or iron saucepan lined with tin, with three quarts of cold
+water and salt, and set it on a good fire. After about thirty minutes,
+the scum or albumen of the meat will gather on the surface, and the
+water will commence boiling. Now place the kettle on a more moderate
+fire, add one gill of cold water, and begin to skim off the scum, which
+will take only a few minutes. Then add one middle-sized carrot, half as
+much turnip, one middle-sized leek, a stalk of celery, one of parsley, a
+bay-leaf, one onion with two cloves stuck in it, and two cloves of
+garlic. Keep the kettle between simmering and boiling heat for about
+five hours. Dish the meat with carrot, turnip, and leek around it, and
+serve it as a _releve_. Strain the broth, and it is ready for use.
+
+If the broth is required to be richer, use more beef and less water, but
+follow the same process; if weaker, use more water and less beef, but
+still follow the same process.
+
+_Broth for Sauces and Gravies._--Place in a soup-kettle or saucepan
+fresh bones of beef, mutton, lamb, veal, or poultry--of either, or of
+all; also, bones of the same meats from roasted pieces; also trimmings
+of the same, if very fresh, with one quart of cold water to every pound
+of bones or meat; skim it like the preceding, add the same vegetables
+and seasonings, and simmer for at least six hours. Then skim off very
+carefully all the fat on the surface, pass the remainder through a
+strainer or a sieve, and it is ready for use. This broth is certainly
+very inferior to the preceding one, but it is excellent for sauces and
+gravies, and is very cheaply made. It may be used for potages also; but,
+as we have said above, it is very gelatinous, and cannot be compared
+with the highly nutritious beef-broth.
+
+Broth that is not to be used immediately must be cooled quickly after
+being strained, as the quicker it is cooled the longer it keeps. As soon
+as cold, put it in a stone jar or crockery vessel, and place it in a
+cool, dry, and dark place. It will keep three or four days in winter,
+but only one day in summer. If the weather is stormy, it will not keep
+even for twelve hours; it turns sour very quickly.
+
+I do not put parsnips or thyme in broth, the taste of these two
+vegetables being too strong. They really neutralize the fine aroma of
+broth. Even in this nineteenth century there are some pretty good cooks
+who put thyme and parsnip in broth, but they do it by routine. Routine
+is in every thing the greatest enemy of progress. Ancient cookery used
+to put in the _pot_ (old name for soup-kettle) a burnt onion to give an
+amber color to the broth. This has exactly the same effect as thyme and
+parsnip, giving it a bad taste, and neutralizing the flavor given to the
+broth by the osmazome of the meat. When broth of an amber color is
+desired, add to it a few drops of burnt sugar, the receipt for making
+which will be found elsewhere.
+
+_Consomme._--There are two ways of making _consomme_: one is to make
+broth as above, with the exception that five pounds of lean beef,
+instead of three, are used with three quarts of water, and simmered from
+seven to eight hours, instead of five, the vegetables and seasonings
+being the same; or by boiling broth gently till properly reduced.
+
+The other way is to roast, until they are only one-third done, one, two,
+or three fowls, not under two years old; then place them in a
+soup-kettle with three pounds of lean beef; wet with three quarts of
+cold water; skim off as above directed; add the same vegetables and
+seasonings as for broth for potages. After having simmered the whole for
+three hours, the fowl or fowls must be taken out of the kettle, and the
+rest is to be simmered for about three hours longer. The meat,
+vegetables, and seasonings are then taken from the kettle or saucepan;
+the liquor is strained, and that liquor is the best _consomme_ that can
+be made; or by boiling the same, gently, in three quarts of good broth,
+you make _consomme_ also.
+
+The reason for directing to use one, two, or three fowls is, that the
+more fowls used, the better and richer the broth. The fowls after having
+been thus used may be prepared in salad, and make a very excellent dish.
+
+One pound of beef is enough to make broth for a potage for three or four
+persons.
+
+Always use fresh meat; meat with a venison taste or tainted would spoil
+if not entirely destroy the broth.
+
+_To clarify Broth._--If not as clear as wanted, beat the white of an egg
+with a gill of cold broth, and turn into the broth; boil gently about
+ten minutes, and strain through a cloth or towel.
+
+Any kind of potage made with broth may be made with _consomme_. It may
+also be made with water, adding butter. With _consomme_ it is richer,
+and with water much inferior, than with broth.
+
+When a rump-piece is used to make broth, it is better to bone it first,
+and take it from the soup-kettle after three or four hours; it is served
+as a _releve_, or prepared as cold beef. The broth is finished as
+directed; the bones and vegetables being kept on the fire longer than
+the meat.
+
+Chicken and turkey broth are often called _potage de sante_ (potage of
+health).
+
+_Chicken._--Roast or bake till turning yellow, a chicken over two years
+old. Put it in a soup-kettle with three pints of water, and set it on a
+rather slow fire; skim off the scum, add a middling-sized onion, a leek,
+a few stalks of chervil if handy, a middling-sized head of lettuce, and
+salt; simmer about three hours. Take out the chicken and vegetables,
+skim off the fat, strain, and use. This broth is excellent for a weak
+stomach, and is easy of digestion. The chicken is served in salad.
+
+_Turkey._--Procure a rather old turkey and roast or bake it till about
+one-third done; put it in a soup-kettle with about a pint of water to a
+pound of meat, and set it on a rather slow fire. As soon as the scum
+comes on the surface, skim it off carefully; then add two onions, two
+leeks, two or three heads of lettuce, a small handful of chervil if
+handy, and salt. Simmer about five hours.
+
+Use the broth as chicken-broth above, and serve the turkey in salad.
+
+_Fish_ (also called _a la Lucullus_).--Slice three middling-sized
+onions and fry them with one ounce of butter till turning yellow; add
+three or four pounds of fish (bass, pike, trout, salmon, and the like),
+any fish having a firm and compact flesh, of one or several kinds; add
+also two carrots, two onions, and one leek, all sliced; four stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, one clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, one clove, six
+pepper-corns, salt; cover the whole with cold water, set on a good but
+not brisk fire, boil gently for about two hours. If the water is boiling
+away, add some more; then strain, and use.
+
+This broth may be used for _bisque_ and fish sauces, instead of
+beef-broth.
+
+It may be made rich; for instance, instead of three pounds of fish, use
+six, seven, eight pounds, or more, and seasonings in proportion.
+
+Louis XV. was on a visit to the monastery of Saint Denis one day during
+Lent; after having walked all over the grounds and gardens, he was
+offered a cup of broth by the superior.
+
+Being a little fatigued, he took the cup and drank the whole at one
+draught.
+
+In going back to Versailles, one of his suite, who did not like the
+monk-superior, adroitly alluded to the cup of broth, and managed to
+persuade the king that the monk had done it on purpose; that is, had
+made the king partake of meat-broth, when it was forbidden by the
+Church.
+
+The next day the monk-superior was sent for and brought before the king.
+On hearing the object of the summons, he asked the king if the broth had
+indisposed him. Being answered in the negative, he begged to be allowed
+to prepare the same broth before the king himself, which he did, and
+from that time till his death the king used to send several hundred
+pounds of fish during Lent to the monks of Saint-Denis.
+
+_Frog._--Skin and put the hind-legs of two dozen of frogs in cold water
+for an hour; drain and put them in a saucepan, and set it on a slow
+fire; stir now and then till they are turning yellow, then take them off
+and chop the flesh rather fine; put back in the pan with a carrot
+sliced, a stalk of celery and one leek, both chopped, a little salt, and
+cover the whole with water. Simmer for about two hours; mash the whole
+through a colander, add butter which you stir and mix in, and it is
+ready for use.
+
+This broth, taken warm before retiring, is excellent for persons having
+a cough or cold.
+
+It is also excellent for consumptive persons, and is only second to
+snail-broth.
+
+_Another._--Take the hind-legs of fifty well-skinned green frogs, put
+them in cold water and a little salt for half an hour--drain them; then
+put them in a crockery kettle, with a leek, half a carrot, two stalks of
+celery, a middling-sized parsnip, a turnip, two onions, one clove of
+garlic, two ounces of fat bacon, a little salt, and white pepper; cover
+the whole well with cold water, set on the fire, simmer gently about
+four hours; strain, pour on _croutons_, and serve.
+
+The hind-legs of the frogs are taken from the strainer, placed on a
+dish, and served at breakfast the next day, with a white sauce, or in
+fricassee, as a chicken.
+
+_Game._--Roast or bake, till about one-third done, two prairie-hens, and
+put them in a soup-kettle with about one pound of lean beef, salt, and
+five pints of water. Set the kettle on a rather slow fire, skim off the
+scum when it gathers on the surface, and then add half a carrot, two
+stalks of parsley, one of celery, one onion with a clove stuck in it, a
+bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, and two cloves of garlic. Simmer about three
+hours, and take the birds out of the kettle; simmer then two hours
+longer; strain, and the broth is ready for use.
+
+Game-broth is warming and stimulating; it may be taken alone, or
+prepared with _croutons_, rice, vermicelli, or other Italian pastes, the
+same as beef-broth.
+
+The prairie-hens are served in _salmis_, and the beef is served as
+boiled beef.
+
+_Snail._--Clean and prepare twenty-five snails as directed. Put them in
+a saucepan, with a carrot, an onion, and a head of lettuce, all chopped,
+a small handful of chervil, a few leaves of sorrel, and a little salt;
+cover the whole with three pints of cold water. Boil slowly for about
+three hours, strain the broth, add a little butter to it, and it is
+ready for use.
+
+A tumblerful of this broth, taken warm before retiring, is certainly the
+best thing for a consumptive person.
+
+It is also excellent for a cough.
+
+Just salt the snails to taste, and eat them as they are, warm or cold.
+
+_Veal._--Procure two pounds of veal, from the neck or breast piece. Put
+the meat in a soup-kettle with two quarts of cold water and a little
+salt; set it on a good fire, and skim off the scum as soon as it gathers
+on the surface. When skimmed, add a head of lettuce, a leek (and a few
+stalks of chervil if handy); simmer for about three hours; strain, and
+use.
+
+This broth, as well as chicken and turkey broth, is excellent for
+convalescent persons.
+
+It may be made richer by putting a little more meat, according to taste;
+but generally the physician gives directions.
+
+_Another._--Soak a calf's liver in cold water for two hours, clean and
+wash it well; put it in a soup-kettle with about three pints of cold
+water, salt, boil gently for an hour and a half, and then add a handful
+of water-cresses; simmer fifteen minutes longer, strain and use.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as above in every particular, except that you use a
+handful of chervil instead of water-cresses.
+
+_Another._--Use three or four leeks instead of water-cresses, and
+proceed as above for every other particular.
+
+The last three especially make a very refreshing drink, and are a great
+relief in some cases of fever.
+
+_Vegetable Broth_ (called also _Bouillon Maigre_).--Scrape, clean, and
+slice three carrots and three turnips, peel three onions; fry the whole
+with a little butter till it turns rather yellow; and then add two
+plants of celery cut in pieces, three or four leeks, also cut in pieces;
+stir and fry the whole for about six minutes. When fried, add also one
+clove of garlic, salt, pepper, two cloves, two stalks of parsley, a
+little nutmeg grated; cover with about three quarts of water. Keep on a
+rather slow fire, skim off the scum carefully, and then simmer for about
+three hours. Strain, and use.
+
+This liquor is called vegetable broth, and is used instead of broth in
+time of Lent by persons who do not want to use beef-broth.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as above, and with the same vegetables till they are
+fried. Then add salt, pepper, two cloves of garlic, four stalks of
+parsley, three cloves, a little nutmeg grated, two quarts of white beans
+previously soaked in cold water for twenty-four hours, and five or six
+quarts of water. Skim it as above; simmer for about four hours; strain,
+and use.
+
+The beans, carrots, turnips, and leeks may be mashed through a colander
+and served in _puree_.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as above in every particular, with the exception
+that instead of using beans, you use peas, lentils, chestnuts, or samp.
+Peas and lentils are soaked in water only for four or five hours.
+Chestnuts must be shelled. Some other vegetables may be added, according
+to taste, and also according to the nature of the vegetables.
+
+_Another._--Clean and put in a bowl a head of lettuce, a handful of
+sorrel, same of chervil, same of purslane, and all chopped fine; pour
+over nearly a quart of boiling water, add two ounces of butter, cover
+the bowl with a wet towel; leave thus half an hour, and strain.
+
+When cold it makes a very refreshing drink, and is taken morning and
+evening with salt, to taste.
+
+It may also be taken warm.
+
+_A la Minute, or made quickly._--Cut four ounces of fat salt pork in
+dice and set it on the fire in a saucepan; stir, and when it is turning
+rather brown add one onion chopped, and half a middling-sized carrot,
+sliced; stir, and when they are partly fried, add also two pounds of
+lean beef cut in small dice; stir and fry for five minutes. Then pour in
+it about three pints of boiling water, salt, boil gently about forty
+minutes. Strain, and use.
+
+The beef may be served with the broth, or separately as an _entree_,
+with a _piquante_, _ravigote_, or Robert sauce.
+
+_Bisque of Lobster._--Boil one or several lobsters as directed, and when
+cold split the tail in two, lengthwise, take the flesh out of the shell,
+remove the black vein that is on the back, take out the meat of the two
+large claws, and keep the flesh of the claws and tail for the following
+day's breakfast.
+
+For a _bisque_, nothing is thrown away but the head, stomach, and black
+vein. The head is the part immediately under the eyes; the stomach is a
+small, round pouch immediately behind the head; and the vein runs from
+the stomach to the end of the tail.
+
+Put all the rest, shell, small claws, all the matter found in the large
+shell (green, white, or yellow), in a mortar and pound well. Then put a
+tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, set it on the fire, and when the
+butter is melted, put what is in the mortar in, stir with a wooden spoon
+for about ten minutes, then add one pint of warm broth, stir for about
+twenty minutes, and strain. Put the liquor back on the fire with about
+four ounces of toasted bread, boil five minutes, and mash through a
+colander. Put the liquor back again on the fire, add one quart of broth,
+boil gently ten minutes, and turn into the soup-dish.
+
+While it is boiling, chop fine the coral-piece of the lobster or
+lobsters, knead it with a piece of butter of about the same bulk, then
+rub both through a wire sieve; put them in the soup-dish with _croutons_
+and about two or three ounces of the flesh of the lobster cut in very
+small dice. Turn the broth into the soup-dish also, and as directed
+above, and serve warm.
+
+When there is no coral in the lobster or lobsters, knead a hard-boiled
+yolk of egg with butter in its stead.
+
+Use one, two, three, or more lobsters, according to how much soup is
+wanted. It is not costly, because the flesh, or most of it, is kept to
+make a salad the next day, for breakfast or lunch.
+
+The salad might be served the same day at dinner, but lobster is a
+rather heavy food, and it is more prudent not to eat any late in the
+day.
+
+_Bisque of Lobster a la Colbert._--Make a _bisque_ as above, and while
+it is on the fire, poach as directed as many eggs as there will be
+persons at dinner; put them in the soup-dish instead of _croutons_, and
+serve as above.
+
+_Of Crabs._--Proceed as for a bisque of lobster in every particular,
+except that you use hard-shell crabs instead of lobster.
+
+_The same a la Colbert._--Add to the above as many poached eggs as you
+have guests.
+
+_Of Craw-fish (Bisque d'Ecrevisses)._--Our readers who have been in
+Europe will certainly remember the name of one of the best soups that
+can be made. It is made of craw-fish the same as with lobster, and is
+certainly more delicate than a _bisque_ of lobster or of crabs. (See
+Craw-fish for other particulars.)
+
+A _bisque_ of craw-fish may also be served _a la Colbert_ the same as a
+_bisque_ of lobster.
+
+_Bouillabaisse._--The real _bouillabaisse_ is made in Marseilles; they
+make an imitation of it in Bordeaux, and in many other parts of France
+and the Continent; but, like a Welsh rarebit prepared out of Wales, it
+is very inferior to the real one. However, we will give the receipt to
+make it here, and as good as possible with the fish that can be
+procured.
+
+Put a gill of sweet-oil in a tin saucepan and set it on a sharp fire;
+when hot, add two onions and two cloves of garlic sliced; stir so as to
+partly fry them, and then take from the fire. Put also in the pan three
+pounds of fish, such as haddock, halibut, turbot, white-fish--of all if
+possible, but at least of two kinds; also a dozen muscles, just blanched
+and taken from the shell (some put them whole, properly cleaned). The
+fish is cut in pieces about two inches long. Then add one gill of
+Catawba or Sauterne wine, a bay-leaf, two cloves, two slices of lemon,
+the juice of a tomato, salt, pepper, a pinch of saffron, cover with
+cold water, and set the pan back on a brisk fire. After about thirty
+minutes add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; boil ten minutes longer,
+and it is done.
+
+The pieces of fish are then placed on a dish and served.
+
+Put in a deep dish, and to be served at the same time, some slices of
+bread, over which you turn the sauce through a strainer.
+
+One slice of bread and one piece of fish is served to each person, also
+some sauce.
+
+It is put in two different dishes, to avoid breaking the pieces of fish.
+
+There are over a hundred ways of making a _bouillabaisse_; the above is
+one of the best.
+
+There are also about as many ways of spelling the same.
+
+A _bouillabaisse_ is served as a soup.
+
+
+  POTAGES.
+
+_A la Colbert._--Scrape carrots and turnips and cut them in small dice
+or with a vegetable spoon; add green peas and string-beans, if handy,
+the beans cut in pieces; set them on the fire in a pan with cold water
+and salt; boil gently till done, and drain. Put them back on the fire,
+covered with warm broth, salt to taste, boil gently about two or three
+minutes, and turn into the soup-dish, in which you have put as many
+poached eggs as there are or will be persons at table. A poached egg
+with soup is served to every person. Proportions of broth and vegetables
+according to taste.
+
+_Julienne._--Scrape two carrots and two turnips and cut them in pieces
+about an inch and a half long; cut slices lengthwise about one-eighth of
+an inch thick, then cut again across, so as to make square strips. Put
+them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter, three tablespoonfuls
+of cabbage chopped fine, and half a middling-sized onion, also chopped;
+set on the fire and stir till about half fried. Add broth to make it as
+you wish, thin or thick; boil gently till done; salt to taste, skim off
+the fat, and serve. It takes about two hours.
+
+_Julienne with Rice._--Boil two ounces of rice in water and a little
+salt, till about three-quarters done; drain and put in the julienne
+after having added the broth; finish as above.
+
+_Julienne with Barley._--Boil barley till done; add it to the _julienne_
+at the same time the broth is added, and serve as the above.
+
+_Julienne aux Croutons._--Put some _croutons_ in the soup-dish, and when
+the _julienne_ is done, pour it over them, and serve.
+
+_Brunoise._--Put an ounce of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when
+melted, add one carrot, one turnip, a little celery, all cut in dice;
+stir till they turn yellow, then add about a quart of broth, a
+middling-sized leek cut in pieces, a few leaves of lettuce and of
+sorrel, if handy, and a pinch of sugar. Simmer about two hours; skim off
+the fat; add a few drops of burnt sugar to color.
+
+Have _croutons_ in the soup-dish, turn the potage over them, and serve.
+
+_Brunoise with Rice._--Proceed as above, except that you add from two to
+four ounces of boiled rice to the potage ten minutes before taking from
+the fire. Serve without croutons.
+
+_Another._--Use boiled barley instead of boiled rice.
+
+_A la Monaco._--Put some thin slices of stale bread in the soup-dish,
+sprinkle pulverized sugar and orange-rind grated all over. Pour boiling
+milk over; cover the dish for five minutes, and serve.
+
+_A la Regence._--Put about two dozen _quenelles_ made with chicken into
+the soup-dish with half a pint of boiled green peas; turn boiling
+_consomme_ over, and serve warm.
+
+_A la Royale._--Make a custard with a dozen yolks of eggs, about the
+same volume of good cream, season with sugar, salt, and a little nutmeg;
+cook, and when perfectly cold, cut it in slices and again cut in fancy
+shapes with paste-cutters or with a knife; place it in the soup-dish,
+pour boiling consomme gently over, and serve warm.
+
+_Potage Printanier_ (called also _Jardiniere_ and _a la Paysanne_).--It
+is a potage _julienne_, to which is added the top or eatable part of six
+asparagus, six turnip-rooted red radishes, and two or three
+tablespoonfuls of green peas. They are fried, boiled, and served with
+the other vegetables.
+
+_Veloute._--Put yolks of eggs in the soup-dish and beat them a little
+with cold or lukewarm broth; then pour boiling broth over them, little
+by little, stirring the while, and serve warm.
+
+It is made thin or thick, according to taste.
+
+_With Arrow-root._--Set broth in a saucepan on the fire, and as soon as
+it boils, sprinkle some arrow-root into it, stirring the while with a
+wooden spoon; boil gently for about half an hour, stirring now and then
+the while, and serve warm, adding salt to taste.
+
+Milk or _consomme_ may be used instead of broth.
+
+If you use milk, add a very little salt and sugar, to taste.
+
+The proportion of arrow-root to a certain quantity of broth is according
+to taste; it can be made thick or thin.
+
+_With Corn-starch._--Proceed as for arrow-root.
+
+_With Bread._--This is the simplest of all. Dry some slices of bread,
+either stale or fresh, in the oven, place them in the soup-dish, pour
+boiling broth over them, cover the dish for two or three minutes, and
+serve.
+
+_With Fecula._--Proceed as for arrow-root. Being finer, it does not
+require more than about twelve or fifteen minutes.
+
+_With Barley._--Wash the barley in cold water, then drop it in boiling
+broth, little by little, stirring the while; when in, keep simmering
+till perfectly done, which you ascertain easily by tasting; add then
+salt to taste, a pinch of sugar, and serve warm.
+
+It must be stirred occasionally while on the fire.
+
+_With Gruel_ (_French Gruau_).--It is made as with arrow-root.
+
+_With Indian Meal._--Proceed as with arrow-root.
+
+_With Sago._--Sago must be boiled gently about an hour; but for the
+rest, proceed as with arrow-root in every particular.
+
+_With Semoule._--With _semoule_ it is the same as with arrow-root,
+except that it is boiled only about fifteen minutes.
+
+_With Tapioca._--Tapioca is prepared like arrow-root, but must be boiled
+about forty-five minutes.
+
+All the above, like arrow-root, may be prepared with _consomme_, or with
+milk, as well as with broth.
+
+_With Giblets._--Throw the giblets in boiling water and a little salt,
+boil for ten minutes, take off and drain. Drop them in broth, boil
+gently till done, and turn the whole into the soup dish, in which you
+have some leeks, boiled and cut in pieces. Serve warm.
+
+Some _croutons_ may be added, and chervil chopped fine, just before
+turning into the soup-dish; or they may be placed in the soup-dish
+before pouring in the broth.
+
+_With Mackerel._--Clean, prepare, and cut in pieces about one inch and a
+half long, a mackerel weighing about one pound and a half; fry it with
+two ounces of butter till it turns rather brown, then cover with nearly
+a quart of water; add a few slices of carrot, same of turnip, a small
+onion, two or three stalks of parsley, salt, pepper, a clove of garlic,
+and a stalk of celery if handy; boil slowly for about an hour; mash
+gently through a colander, put what has passed through the colander back
+on the fire, add a little butter, give one more boil, turn into the soup
+dish over _croutons_, and serve.
+
+_With new Carrots._--Take small, young carrots, clean and wash them,
+then blanch them for about five minutes. Set them on the fire, cover
+with broth or _consomme_; boil gently till done, and serve.
+
+_Another._--With carrots and peas. Proceed as above till the carrots are
+half done, then add blanched green peas; finish the cooking, and serve.
+
+_Another._--Make as the above, but using one or two heads of
+cabbage-lettuce, blanched for two minutes, instead of green peas.
+
+_Fancy Potage._--Take twelve very small rolls; cut off one end and
+remove all the soft part of it; fill them with _quenelles_ of chicken;
+replace the piece cut off as well as possible; place them in the
+soup-dish; pour boiling _consomme_ or good broth over them; cover the
+dish for ten minutes, and serve warm.
+
+_With Vermicelli._--Drop the vermicelli in boiling water, and in which
+you have put a little salt; boil ten minutes, drain, drop again in cold
+water, drain again and put it in boiling broth; boil ten minutes; add
+salt to taste, and serve.
+
+_With Macaroni._--Proceed as for vermicelli in every particular, except
+that it takes twice as long to cook.
+
+_With Macaroni and Cheese._--Proceed as for the above, and when done,
+put grated cheese in the soup-dish, turn the macaroni over it, and
+serve.
+
+_With Italian Pastes._--No matter of what shape are the pastes, proceed
+as for vermicelli; the only difference is in the time of cooking, which
+depends on the size.
+
+_Consomme_ may be used instead of broth. If milk is used, sugar must be
+added.
+
+_With Macaroni a la Corinne._--Set two quarts of cold water on the fire,
+with an ounce of salt, and two ounces of butter; at the first boil, drop
+into it four ounces of macaroni; boil five minutes, and drain.
+Immediately drop the macaroni in boiling _consomme_, and boil gently
+till done. Drain it again and place a layer of it in the soup-dish, over
+the macaroni; place a thin layer of Parmesan cheese grated; then a layer
+of _macedoine_ of vegetables; then again, a layer of macaroni, one of
+cheese, etc.; pour _consomme_ to taste on the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_With Macaroni a la Medici_ (also called _a la Napolitaine_).--Proceed
+as for macaroni _a la Corinne_ in every particular, with the exception
+that you put also in the soup-dish a layer of _quenelles_ of chicken
+over that of _macedoine_ of vegetables, and serve in the same way.
+
+The _quenelles_ are boiled till done, in broth in which you put a few
+sprigs of mignonette.
+
+_Another._--Add to the above about a gill of thick tomato-sauce, just
+before pouring the _consomme_ over the macaroni, etc.
+
+_Macaroni a la Romulus._--Prepare eight ounces of macaroni as directed
+for macaroni _a la Corinne_; place a layer of it in the soup-dish; then
+over it a layer of _quenelles_ of chicken; over the _quenelles_, a thin
+layer of grated Parmesan cheese; then a layer of thin slices of salt
+beef tongue, boiled and skimmed; over the latter a layer of sweetbreads
+boiled in broth and cut in thin slices also; and lastly a layer of thin
+slices of boiled flounders. Several layers of each of the above may be
+placed in the soup dish, in the same order; then boiling _consomme_ is
+poured over the whole; the dish is covered, put in a warm place for ten
+minutes, and served.
+
+Although this dish is a regular potage, and served as such, still many
+Italians make a meal of it.
+
+_With Macaroni a La Rossini._--Proceed as for macaroni _a la Corinne_
+above, with two exceptions: first, that you add a layer of _quenelles_
+of partridge; and second, that you use _consomme_ of partridge.
+
+_With Macaroni a la St. Pierre._--Proceed also as for potage macaroni _a
+la Corinne_ as far as placing a layer of macaroni in the soup-dish; then
+put over it a layer of boiled soft roe of fish; over which put a thin
+layer of grated Parmesan cheese; then a layer of _quenelles_ of fish;
+another layer of macaroni; over it, a layer of boiled thin slices of
+salmon; macaroni again, etc. Pour boiling _consomme_ over the whole, and
+serve.
+
+Although bearing the name of Saint Pierre (St. Peter), the above dish
+has not been devised by the saint; but, like all the above, save that _a
+la Corinne_, it has been invented by monks.
+
+_With Nouilles._--Set broth on the fire in a saucepan, and at the first
+boiling take the _nouilles_ from the water with a skimmer and put in the
+broth, stir occasionally and boil gently till done. The proportions are
+according to taste. The more broth used for a certain quantity of
+_nouilles_ the thinner the soup will be, and _vice versa_. Salt to
+taste, and serve.
+
+_With Potatoes._--Cut about half a pint of potatoes with a vegetable
+spoon (it is understood half a pint when cut, the rest being used to
+make mashed potatoes), and blanch them for three minutes, drain and put
+them in boiling broth; boil gently till about half done, add then two or
+three tablespoonfuls of green peas; finish the cooking; and just before
+serving add a pinch of sugar, salt to taste, turn into the soup-dish,
+and serve with or without croutons.
+
+_With Quenelles._--Drop _quenelles_ in broth; boil gently till done, and
+serve.
+
+The proportion according to taste. Half a dozen _quenelles_ for each
+person, and about half a pint of broth, make a good proportion.
+
+_With Rice._--Put boiled rice in the soup-dish, turn boiling broth over
+it, and serve warm.
+
+_With Turnips._--When clean, cut the turnips in slices, drop them in
+boiling water, add a little salt, boil for five minutes, and drain. Set
+them on the fire in a saucepan, cover them with milk, and boil gently
+till done. Mash them through a colander, put them back on the fire with
+milk, butter, a little sugar and salt; stir and boil gently a few
+minutes; then add a yolk of egg for two turnips, stir in also two or
+three tablespoonfuls of cream; stir, but do not boil; put some
+_croutons_ in the soup-dish, turn the turnips over, and serve.
+
+_Puree of Split Peas._--The proportions vary according to taste; the
+more peas that are used with a certain quantity of broth, the thicker
+the potage will be, and _vice versa_.
+
+Soak one pint of split peas in cold water over night and drain. Put them
+in a saucepan with a few slices of carrot, same of turnip, same of onion
+and salt. Cover with cold water, set on the fire and boil till done.
+Drain, and then mash through a colander. Put back on the fire with warm
+broth to taste--that is, to make the potage thin or thick, season with
+salt or pepper; boil gently for five minutes, stirring the while; turn
+into the soup-dish over _croutons_, and serve warm. It may be served
+without _croutons_.
+
+_Puree of Green Peas._--It is sometimes called _a la Chantilly_, or _a
+la Francaise_. Put cold water and a little salt on the fire, and at the
+first boiling throw the peas in; if they are very tender, leave them in
+only a few seconds; if large and rather hard, boil one or two minutes;
+drain, mash them through a colander, and finish as the above.
+
+_Puree of Dry Beans._--White and dry beans have several names, but no
+matter what kind, they are prepared alike. If you are not sure that the
+beans are new, soak them in cold water for about twenty-four hours, and
+drain. Cook, mash, and serve them the same as split peas.
+
+_Puree of Lentils._--Wash the lentils in cold water and proceed as for
+split peas for the rest.
+
+_Puree of Peas._--Proceed as for split peas.
+
+_With Lima Beans._--Proceed as with green peas.
+
+_With Potatoes._--Steam potatoes, then peel and mash them through a
+colander. Put them back on the fire with broth, butter, and salt to
+taste; stir, boil a few minutes, and serve with _croutons_. Water or
+milk may be used instead of broth.
+
+_With Pumpkins._--Peel, take away the seed and cut the pumpkin in small
+pieces; put them in a stewpan with water just enough to cover them, a
+little salt and white pepper, set on the fire and take off when cooked;
+throw away the water, mash and strain the pumpkin, put it back in the
+stewpan, cover with milk, add a little sugar, set it again on the fire,
+and take off at the first boiling; pour a little of it on _croutons_ in
+the soup-dish, and keep covered in a warm place for ten minutes; then
+pour also the remainder in, and serve.
+
+_Another._--Prepare as above, throw the pieces in boiling water with a
+little salt for five minutes, mash and drain; put butter in a stewpan,
+set it on the fire; when melted put the pumpkin in, stir about five
+minutes; have ready in your soup-dish some slices of bread fried in
+butter, and dusted with sugar, pour on them some boiling milk, keep
+covered in a warm place two or three minutes; then turn the pumpkin on,
+at the same time mixing the whole gently, and serve.
+
+_With Squash._--It is made as with pumpkin.
+
+_With Asparagus._--Proceed as for green peas.
+
+_With Jerusalem Artichokes._--It is made like that of potatoes.
+
+_With Carrots._--When made with young carrots, it is called potage
+_puree Crecy_, or _a la Crecy_. Add broth to taste to a _puree_ of
+carrots, turn into the soup-dish over _croutons_, and serve.
+
+_With colored Beans._--When made with colored beans, it is called _a la
+Conde_. Proceed as with beans.
+
+The Prince of Conde devised this potage, and besides cooking the beans
+in broth, he used to put in one or two partridges also, to give, as he
+used to say, "a good taste to the beans."
+
+_With Cauliflowers._--Make a _puree_ of cauliflowers, to which you add
+broth to taste, and serve with _croutons_.
+
+_With Chestnuts._--Add broth and _croutons_ to a _puree_ of chestnuts,
+and serve warm.
+
+_With Turnips._--It is made as with carrots.
+
+_With Wheat._--Cut ears of wheat when full, but not ripe, and put them
+away to dry. Shell the wheat; wash it in cold water, put it in a
+saucepan, cover it with broth and boil gently till done. Mash through a
+colander, put back on the fire with a little butter; add broth if too
+thick, stir now and then for about fifteen minutes; take from the fire,
+add two or three yolks of eggs beaten with a little cream and a pinch of
+sugar; mix them well with the rest, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sweet Corn._--Proceed as with wheat in every particular. It makes
+a healthy and excellent potage.
+
+Water may be used instead of broth, but it is not as nutritive.
+
+_With Swallows' Nests, or Chinese Soup._--The nests are made a
+mucilaginous substance of, and built by the species of swallows called
+_Hirundo esculenta_; it would require several pages to describe them,
+together with their compound material, and would be out of place in a
+receipt book. Suffice it to say, that they sell for $100 a pound in
+London and Paris (gold of course), and the cheapest potage for one
+person costs about three dollars.
+
+Soak about four ounces of it in cold water for ten hours, drain and
+clean. Put it in a saucepan, cover well with chicken-broth, place the
+saucepan in boiling water for about two hours, add salt to taste, and
+then drain again. Place the nests in the soup-dish, pour boiling
+_consomme_ over them, and serve warm.
+
+The Chinese are said to use very rich _consomme_ of chicken to prepare
+them.
+
+_With Tomatoes and Rice._--Blanch half a dozen tomatoes, and skin them.
+Put them in a saucepan with a quart of broth, season with an onion
+sliced, three or four sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, half a dozen
+pepper-corns, a bay-leaf, two cloves, two cloves of garlic; salt and
+pepper. Boil gently till reduced to about two-thirds, then mash gently
+through a colander. It is understood by mashing gently, to mash so that
+all the liquid part shall pass through the colander, and the seeds and
+spices shall be retained in it and thrown away.
+
+While the tomatoes are on the fire boiling, set four ounces of rice on
+the fire with cold water and salt, and boil it till tender. Drain the
+rice, put it in a saucepan with the tomato-juice after being mashed, set
+the saucepan on the fire, add one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of
+sugar, both according to taste; to make the potage thin or thick, boil
+gently fifteen minutes, turn into the soup-dish, and serve warm.
+
+The same may be done with canned tomatoes; in that case, set a can of
+tomatoes on the fire with the same seasonings, and proceed exactly as
+for the above in every other particular.
+
+_The same with Croutons._--Fry some _croutons_ with a little butter, put
+them in the soup-dish; turn the potage, or rather the same mixture as
+above, over them; cover the soup-dish for two or three minutes, and
+serve.
+
+_With Tomatoes and Croutons only._--Fry the _croutons_ and put them in
+the soup-dish; turn the tomatoes only over them, after being prepared as
+above; cover the soup-dish for two or three minutes, and serve.
+
+_Puree a la Reine._--Procure a rather old chicken and cut it in pieces
+as for fricassee; set it on the fire in a saucepan with about a quart of
+cold water, salt, and boil gently about one hour. Then add about four
+ounces of rice, washed in cold water, continue boiling until the chicken
+is overdone and tender. Take the pieces of chicken from the pan, scrape
+the flesh off the bones; cut the white flesh (the flesh that is on both
+sides of the breast-bone) in dice, and put it in the soup-dish; chop
+fine all the other flesh, and then mash it through a sieve or strainer,
+together with the rice. If it be rather too thick to mash through,
+moisten it with broth. A large iron spoon is the best utensil to mash
+through with. Then set the rice and flesh back on the fire in a saucepan
+with broth to taste, stir and add immediately from two to four ounces of
+butter, a gill of cream, or, if not handy, a gill of milk. Keep stirring
+on a slow fire for five or six minutes; salt to taste, turn into the
+soup-dish, and serve.
+
+There is no danger of curdling if kept on a slow fire and not allowed to
+boil.
+
+_The same with Broth._--To make the potage richer, cook the chicken and
+rice in broth instead of water, and proceed as above for the rest.
+
+_The same with consomme._--The chicken and rice may also be cooked in
+_consomme_, and when mashed through the sieve, add _consomme_ also
+instead of broth, and you have an exceedingly rich soup. This is
+excellent for persons having throat diseases; it is easily swallowed,
+and very nutritious.
+
+_The same a la Francaise._--The potage _puree a la francaise_ is the
+same as that a la reine, with the addition of _quenelles_ of chicken.
+
+_The same a la Princesse._--Add to that _a la reine_, the white flesh of
+a roasted chicken, cut in dice, and put in the soup-dish.
+
+Puree of Game.--Proceed as for potage _puree a la reine_, with the
+exception that you use prairie-hen, instead of chicken.
+
+
+  SOUPS.
+
+_Maigre, or Vegetable Soup._--Proceed as for _julienne_ in every
+particular, except that water is used instead of broth. Four ounces of
+butter may be used instead or two.
+
+_Beef and Mutton Soup._--Take three pounds of beef and two pounds of
+breast of mutton; put both pieces in a crockery kettle with four quarts
+of cold water, salt, and pepper, set on a slow fire; skim carefully,
+then add half a carrot, two turnips, two onions with one clove stuck in
+each, two stalks of celery, two leeks, one sprig of parsley, and one
+clove of garlic. Simmer four or five hours; dish the meat with carrots,
+turnips, and leeks around, to be served after the soup if you choose;
+strain the broth, skim the fat off, put back on the fire, give one boil;
+have _croutons_ in the soup-dish, pour over them, and serve.
+
+_Mock Turtle._--Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the
+fire, when melted, add a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when turning
+brown, add three pints of broth (either beef-broth or broth made by
+boiling a calf's head, according to taste); boil five minutes then add a
+liquor glass of brandy or rum, from one to three glasses of Madeira,
+Port, or Sherry wine, about four ounces of calf's-head (the skin only)
+cut in dice, mushrooms or truffles, or both, also cut in dice; boil five
+minutes. While it is boiling, cut two hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon
+in dice and put them in the soup-dish; turn the broth over, and serve.
+
+Made with beef broth it is certainly richer than when made with
+calf's-head broth, the latter is gelatinous but less nourishing than the
+former.
+
+_Mock Turtle with consomme._--Use _consomme_ instead of broth, and you
+have as rich a soup as can be made.
+
+Mock turtle is an English soup, very rich and very good.
+
+_Au Chasseur (Hunter's or Sportsman's Soup)._--A potage _au chasseur_ is
+always made with game, such as rabbit, prairie-hen, grouse, venison,
+wild turkey, wild pigeon, etc., but never with aquatic birds. It might
+be made with quail, but that bird is really too delicate to make soup
+with. A whole bird or animal is never used, but the bones and trimmings
+only. After having cut off the fleshy parts, the bones are cracked and
+used to make the potage.
+
+Take the bones of two prairie-hens after having cut off the flesh on
+both sides of the breast-bone, also the legs; cut the bones in pieces
+about half an inch long and set them on the fire with half an ounce of
+butter, stir for two or three minutes, cover with broth, or game broth,
+and boil gently till well cooked, or about two hours.
+
+Put in another pan, and set it on the fire at the same time as the
+above, half a head of cabbage, one carrot, one turnip, and one onion,
+all cut fine; about half a pound of lean salt pork; cover with cold
+water, and boil gently for about two hours also.
+
+In case the water or broth should boil away, add a little more.
+
+After having boiled both vegetables and bones about two hours, take off
+the salt pork from the pan in which the vegetables are, and turn what
+you have in the other pan over the vegetables, through a strainer; add
+some broth if it is too thick; boil ten minutes, and serve.
+
+Proceed as above with the bones and trimmings of other birds.
+
+_Turtle or Terrapin._--Cut the turtle in dice, throw it in boiling water
+for two or three minutes, and drain; put it in a stewpan with onions and
+ham, also cut in dice; season with thyme, parsley, bay-leaf, salt,
+pepper, and a wine-glass of Madeira wine or of good brandy; wet with
+_Espagnole_ sauce or with _consomme_, set on a good fire, boil about
+half an hour. Ten minutes before taking from the fire, chop the eggs of
+the turtle, after having boiled them, and put them in a stewpan; if the
+turtle has none, chop and use hard-boiled eggs instead. When done, throw
+away parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, turn into bowls, add a little chopped
+chervil, and a quarter of a rind of lemon, also chopped; the latter is
+enough for six persons. Serve warm.
+
+It may be strained before putting it in bowls, according to taste.
+
+Turtle-steaks are prepared like beef-steaks.
+
+_With Rice and Milk._--Wash half a pound of rice in cold water. Set it
+on the fire with about one pint of milk, boil gently till done, filling
+with more milk, so as to keep the rice always covered. When cooked, add
+a little butter, milk according to taste, sugar or salt, or both, and
+serve. It will not take more than two quarts of milk.
+
+The French name for the above is _riz au lait_.
+
+_With Okra._--Okra or gumbo is little known here; yet it is good in
+pickles, used like cucumbers. It is much used for soup in the Southern
+States and in the West Indies.
+
+When green and tender, cut it very fine, cook it in broth, add a few
+tomatoes or tomato-sauce, according to taste; season with salt, pepper,
+and a pinch of sugar. When the tomatoes are cooked, serve warm.
+
+If dry, make a potage like that of tapioca, to which you add a little
+tomato-sauce and pepper.
+
+_With Onions._--Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, and when melted
+add a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when turning rather yellow add
+also four or five onions sliced, stir till fried, when you add broth to
+taste (about one quart); boil gently about fifteen minutes; mash through
+a colander, put back on the fire; give one boil, salt and pepper to
+taste; turn into the soup-dish, in which you have some _croutons_, and
+serve.
+
+More or less onions may be used, according to taste.
+
+_Ox-Tail._--Chop the ox-tail in pieces about one inch long, set them on
+the fire, with about one ounce of butter, stir till it turns rather
+brown, and turn the fat off. Then add broth to taste, boil slowly till
+the pieces of tail are well done; add salt, pepper, and when handy add
+also three or four tomatoes whole; boil gently about fifteen minutes
+longer, turn into the soup-dish, and serve meat and all.
+
+Some add wine and liquor, the same as to the mock-turtle soup, but this
+is according to taste. The soup is excellent served without wine or
+liquor.
+
+When no tomatoes are used, it is not necessary to boil fifteen minutes
+longer, serve as soon as done.
+
+_Simple._--Use water instead of broth; season with carrot, turnip,
+parsley, leek, onions, cloves, salt, and pepper. Serve as the above.
+
+_Ox-cheek._--An ox-cheek soup is made the same as an ox-tail soup. The
+broth is made with ox-cheek instead of with other parts of the beef, and
+the potage or soup made with the broth. A little wine--Madeira, Port, or
+Sherry--is sometimes added, as for mock-turtle.
+
+_Sheep's-tail._--Proceed as for ox-tail in every particular.
+
+_Sheep's-neck._--Made the same as ox-cheek soup.
+
+_Sorrel._--Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, set it on the fire,
+and as soon as melted, put a good handful of sorrel in, stir for about
+one minute; then add a pint and a half of water, salt; boil two or three
+minutes; add again a little butter, give one boil and turn into the
+soup-dish in which you have _croutons_.
+
+As soon as taken from the fire, two, three, or four yolks of eggs,
+beaten with a tablespoonful of water, may be added.
+
+Broth may be used instead of water.
+
+_Oyster._--Put one quart of oysters with their liquor in a saucepan,
+with one pint of cold water, and set it on a good fire. Take from the
+fire at the first boil, and skim off the scum. Take the oysters from the
+pan with a skimmer and put them in the soup-dish. By keeping the
+soup-dish in a warm but not hot place, the oysters will not harden. Add
+to the juice in the saucepan a gill of white wine; give one boil, and
+take from the fire. Mix two ounces of butter with two tablespoonfuls of
+flour in a bowl; turn the juice and wine into the bowl also, and mix the
+whole well; put the mixture back in the saucepan, and set it on the
+fire, adding about half a dozen mushrooms, two or three stalks of
+parsley, and pepper to taste. Boil two minutes, turn over the oysters
+through a strainer, and serve.
+
+The mushrooms may also be turned into the soup-dish.
+
+_Cabbage._--Put in a kettle with two quarts and a half of water a pound
+of salted pork, same of breast of mutton; also, if handy, the remains of
+a roasted piece; set on a slow fire; skim before it boils, and then boil
+for about an hour and a half; strain, to remove the small bones, if any;
+put back in the kettle broth and meat, also one middling-sized cabbage,
+which you must have previously thrown in boiling water and boiled ten
+minutes; add then two carrots, one turnip, two leeks, half a head of
+celery, one onion with a clove stuck in it, a little salt and pepper,
+and about half a pound of sausage (not smoked); then boil gently about
+two hours, strain the broth, pour it on _croutons_ in the soup-dish, and
+serve.
+
+The pork, mutton, and sausage, with the cabbage around, may be served
+on a dish after the soup at a family dinner, or kept for breakfast the
+next day.
+
+_Cauliflower._--Clean and cut in small pieces three middling-sized
+cauliflowers. Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter, and set it on a
+moderate fire; when hot put the cauliflowers in; stir now and then till
+it turns brown, then add a sprig of thyme, same of parsley, a bay-leaf,
+one onion with a clove stuck in it, salt, and white pepper; simmer
+gently till the whole is well cooked, throw away the onion, clove,
+thyme, and bay-leaf; mash well the cauliflowers, strain and put back on
+the fire with the broth; give one boil, pour on _croutons_, and serve.
+
+_Cheese._--Put four ounces of butter in a soup-kettle, with an onion
+chopped fine; set on a brisk fire, stir now and then till it has a
+yellow color, then sprinkle on it half a tablespoonful of flour, keep
+stirring till it turns brown; then add two quarts of water, salt, and
+pepper; boil about five minutes. Have prepared in the soup-dish the
+following: a thin layer of grated cheese, Gruyere or pine-apple cheese;
+on it a layer of thin slices of bread, then another of cheese, again
+another of bread, etc., three or four of each; strain, and pour the
+liquor in the kettle on the whole; keep in a warm place five minutes,
+and serve.
+
+_Milk._--Put a quart of milk in a tin saucepan and set it on the fire;
+when it begins to rise, sweeten it to taste; give one boil, pour on
+toasted bread, or on _croutons_, or on two ounces of boiled rice, and
+serve.
+
+Yolks of eggs may be stirred in, just before turning the milk into the
+soup-dish, and when taken from the fire.
+
+_Maigre_ (called _Soup aux Herbes_, _Herb-Broth_, etc.).--Wash, drain,
+and chop fine a handful of sorrel, a dozen sprigs of chervil, and half a
+head of lettuce; put an ounce of butter in a stewpan, set it on a good
+fire; when melted, put the sorrel, chervil, and lettuce in, add salt
+and pepper, stir till the whole is cooked; then cover with lukewarm
+water; boil three minutes, beat well three yolks of eggs with a
+tablespoonful of water, take from the fire and put the eggs in while
+stirring; pour immediately on _croutons_, and serve.
+
+_With Leeks._--Clean six leeks; cut them in pieces about half an inch
+long, then fry them with a little butter till turning rather yellow; add
+then about a pint and a half of water, boil gently till the leeks are
+perfectly cooked, salt to taste, and it is ready for use.
+
+This broth may be taken warm or cold.
+
+It is a demulcent, and at the same time the most refreshing drink that
+can be taken.
+
+_With Clams._--Wash and clean the clams well. Then put them in a
+saucepan with half a pint of water (say one quart of clams), set on the
+fire, and at the first boil, take off and drain. Put the pan back on the
+fire with two ounces of butter in it; when melted, fry a chopped onion
+in the butter, add then the liquor drained, a pint of water, salt,
+pepper, parsley chopped fine, and the clams; boil two minutes, add also
+a little butter, and when melted and mixed, turn over some _croutons_ in
+the soup-dish, and serve warm.
+
+_With Muscles._--Proceed as for clams in every particular.
+
+_Allemande, or German Soup._--Soak four ounces of pearl-barley in tepid
+water for eight or ten hours, and strain. Put it in a saucepan with one
+quart of broth, a piece of leek, one of celery, and boil gently about
+one hour and a half. While it is boiling, mix well together in a bowl
+one tablespoonful of flour and half a gill of broth, which turn into the
+saucepan, also grated nutmeg and sugar to taste; boil ten minutes
+longer, and serve.
+
+_Another, called a la Maria Theresa._--Proceed as for the above, except
+that you mix in a bowl six yolks of eggs with half a gill of broth, and
+no flour; and finish as in the preceding.
+
+_Another way._--Instead of using pearl-barley, use flour that you have
+dried in a bakepan till it turns yellow.
+
+_Indian, or Curry._--Put in a saucepan one ounce of butter and set it on
+the fire; when melted, fry in it two large onions, one carrot, and half
+a turnip, all sliced; also one leek, a stalk of celery, and four of
+parsley, all cut fine. When the whole is fried, cover with about one
+quart of broth, season with two cloves, a bay-leaf, half a teaspoonful
+of cayenne pepper, same of pimento, two stalks of thyme; boil gently
+about one hour and a quarter, and drain. Put the liquor back in the
+saucepan and add four ounces of boiled rice, a little saffron to color,
+simmer about fifteen minutes longer, and serve.
+
+This soup is good and healthy for southern countries, but is too highly
+spiced for this climate.
+
+_Polish, or Barscz._--Peel and clean fifteen or twenty red beets, split
+them in two or four lengthwise, and put them in an earthen vessel with a
+pail of water and about a pound of rye bread; cover the vessel as
+air-tight as possible, and set it in a warm place (about 80 degrees
+Fahr.) for about eight days. After that time the liquor is rather sour,
+then drain.
+
+Put in a saucepan four pounds of lean beef, one pound of smoked pork,
+half a pound of ham, four onions, two leeks, and about four quarts of
+the liquor made as above. Simmer till the whole is done; skim off the
+scum that may gather on the surface, and then strain.
+
+Roast till half done, three chickens, or one chicken and one rabbit, or
+one chicken and one duck; put them on the fire in a saucepan with the
+liquor strained from the beef, pork, etc., as described above. Boil
+gently about half an hour, strain the liquor again. Then cut the beef,
+smoked pork, and ham, in small dice, put the whole in the soup-dish,
+with the strained liquor, and serve warm, as soup.
+
+The chicken, or chicken and rabbit, or chicken and duck, are generally
+served separately, with some of the beets used to make the liquor, and
+with the addition of mushrooms, parsley, celery, onions, and sausages,
+raw or cooked, according to taste; and salt, pepper, and spices,
+according to taste also.
+
+The poorer classes make this soup with water instead of beet-juice, and
+very often with mutton instead of beef; but proceed as described above
+in every other particular.
+
+_Russian, or Uka._--The _uka_ is made in Russia with sterlets. It may be
+made here with the sturgeon of the lakes, or with salmon or trout.
+
+Cut the fish in pieces about two inches long, and put them in salt water
+for one hour, and drain. Cut in small pieces two roots of parsley and
+two of celery, throw them into boiling water five minutes and drain
+them. Then fry them with a little butter till they turn yellow, when add
+a gill of broth, and boil gently till it becomes rather thick. Put the
+pieces of fish in also, add salt and pepper, to taste, cover the whole
+with fish-broth, boil gently till the fish is cooked, and serve warm.
+
+Some _caviare_ may be added just before serving.
+
+_Another, or Tstchy._--Put four pounds of beef in a soup-kettle (the
+poorer classes always use mutton), with a chicken or a duck, half a
+pound of smoked pork, same of smoked sausages, four carrots, four
+cloves, twelve pepper-corns, salt, two leeks, two onions, four stalks of
+parsley, and one of celery; cover the whole with fish-broth, and set on
+a good fire. Skim off the scum carefully, and boil gently till the whole
+is done. As soon as either the chicken or duck, etc., is done, take it
+from the kettle. When the whole is cooked, drain.
+
+Put the liquor back in the kettle with a middling-sized head of cabbage
+cut in four, or about the same quantity of sour-krout, slices of carrots
+and onions, pearl-barley, _semoule_, or gruel; simmer about three hours,
+and it is done.
+
+It is served in two ways: first, all the meat and vegetables are cut in
+small pieces and served with the broth as soup; second, the broth is
+served with the vegetables cut up, and the meat is served after and
+separately, as a _releve_.
+
+Nothing is thrown away but the pepper-corns and cloves.
+
+_Spanish, or Olla Podrida._--Put four ounces of lean and fat salt pork
+into a saucepan and set it on a good fire; when partly fried, add half a
+pound of beef, same of mutton, same of veal (occasionally a chicken or
+partridge is added also), and four ounces of ham. Just cover the whole
+with cold water, and skim carefully as soon as the scum comes on the
+surface. When skimmed, add a gill of dry peas, previously soaked in
+water for an hour, half a small head of cabbage, pimento to taste, one
+carrot, one turnip, two leeks, three or four stalks of celery, same of
+parsley, two of thyme, two cloves, two onions, two cloves of garlic, ten
+pepper-corns, and some mace; fill up with water so that the whole is
+just covered, and simmer for about five hours.
+
+In case the water should simmer away too much, add a little more.
+
+When done, dish the pork, beef, mutton, veal, ham, and chicken. Put the
+peas, cabbage, carrots, turnips, leeks, celery, and onions on another
+dish.
+
+Strain the liquor, pour it on _croutons_ in the soup-dish, and serve the
+three dishes at the same time.
+
+The Spanish peasantry and the lower classes in cities, serve the whole
+in the same dish, and generally omit the beef and veal. The better class
+serve the soup first, and then the meat and vegetables afterward.
+
+_Another._--Chop very fine two onions, one cucumber peeled and seeded, a
+little pimento, two cloves of garlic, four sprigs of parsley, same of
+chervil, and mix the whole in a bowl with the juice of four tomatoes,
+and to which add two or three tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs. Then
+season with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard, and water to taste, and
+serve.
+
+The Spanish call it a cool and refreshing soup.
+
+
+
+
+  SAUCES.
+
+
+There is no good cooking possible without good sauces. Many excellent
+pieces of meat, etc., are spoiled by being served with a poor sauce.
+
+Let every one bear in mind that water is no substitute for broth; that
+vinegar or water is no substitute for wine, etc.
+
+There is no place where the old proverb can be better applied than in
+the kitchen, "Waste not, spare not."
+
+The _French_, _Italians_, _Spaniards_, and _Germans_, use broth and wine
+in their cooking, and do not spend as much as the _Americans_ for their
+food; they could not afford it; but they waste not, neither do they lose
+any thing good through carelessness or prejudice.
+
+Good sauces are not as difficult to make as is generally believed.
+
+This general belief comes from the fact that many, after having partaken
+of a certain dish somewhere, and liking it much, ask of their own cook
+to prepare the same.
+
+The cook, most probably, has never heard of it, but nevertheless
+prepares a dish which is hardly eatable, and is to the other what a
+crab-apple is to a raspberry.
+
+The most important thing in making a sauce is for the cook to put his or
+her whole attention and care to it.
+
+Most sauces must be stirred continually while on the fire, and
+especially white sauces, such as _Bechamel_, _Bechamel_ with cream or
+cream sauce, and white sauce.
+
+It is necessary to stir all sauces now and then, to prevent the forming
+of a kind of skin on the surface.
+
+The onions, shallots, garlics, and vinegar, used in sharp sauces, may be
+prepared as described for _piquante_ sauce.
+
+Sauces can always be made to suit the taste. A thousand can be made as
+well as a hundred, by merely adding or subtracting one or more of the
+compounds, or by proceeding differently. An idea of what can be done in
+that line can be formed by reading our directions for Supreme Sauce.
+
+
+  HOW TO MAKE A SAUCE THICKER WHEN IT IS TOO THIN, AND THINNER WHEN TOO
+    THICK.
+
+Take two fresh eggs, break them gently, and separate the white part from
+the yolk; be careful to have the yolk free from any white (there is in
+every yolk a little white spot, which you cannot detach without using a
+fork, knife, or spoon); mix well the two yolks with two or three
+tablespoonfuls of the sauce that is too thin, and a piece of butter the
+size of a pigeon's egg; then take the sauce from the fire, pour the
+mixture in it, little by little, stirring all the time; when the whole
+is in, put back on the fire for three or four minutes, but do not allow
+it to boil; take away and use. When too thick, add broth.
+
+_Allemande._--Chop fine and fry in butter four or five mushrooms; then
+add a little flour, and four or five tablespoonfuls of broth; reduce it
+to a sauce; put a piece of butter the size of an egg in it, also a sprig
+of white parsley chopped fine, one of thyme, a clove, a bay-leaf, a
+clove of garlic, a little nutmeg grated fine, the juice of a quarter of
+a lemon, and three well-beaten yolks of eggs, boil two or three minutes,
+and use. If found too thick, add a little broth.
+
+_Anchovy Butter._--Strain essence of anchovy through a fine sieve, and
+knead it with fresh butter, or salt butter that you have kneaded in cold
+water previously, and it is ready for use.
+
+_Anchovy Sauce._--Use butter without salt; if salty, work it in cold
+water. Set three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and melt it
+slowly; then add about two teaspoonfuls of essence of anchovy; stir a
+few seconds, and it is done. More anchovy may be used if liked. It is
+served in a boat.
+
+_Apple._--Peel, quarter, and core four or six apples, and set them on
+the fire in a small saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir now
+and then till done; when done, mash through a fine colander; add a
+little sugar, and it is ready for use.
+
+If found too thin, keep on the fire for some time. If too thick, add a
+little water.
+
+_Cranberry._--Put a quart of cranberries in a saucepan and set it on a
+rather slow fire; stir occasionally till done; mash gently through a
+fine colander, or through a strainer; add a little sugar, and use.
+
+_Currant._--Proceed as for a cranberry-sauce in every particular, except
+that it must be mashed through a strainer or through a towel.
+
+_Peach._--Stone about a quart of peaches, and proceed as for apple-sauce
+for the rest.
+
+_Raspberry._--Made the same as currant-sauce.
+
+The five sauces above are served with roasted game.
+
+_Bechamel._--Mix cold, and well together, in a tin saucepan, two ounces
+of butter and a tablespoonful of flour; then add a pint of milk, and
+set on the fire; stir continually, and when turning rather thick, take
+off; beat a yolk of egg in a cup with a teaspoonful of water; turn it
+into the sauce, and mix well again; salt and white pepper to taste, and
+it is ready for use.
+
+_Blonde._--Proceed exactly as for white sauce, using broth instead of
+water.
+
+_Bread._--Take the soft part of half a ten-cent loaf of bread; break it
+in pieces, which put in a saucepan with a quart of good fresh milk, six
+pepper-corns chopped fine, and a little salt; set on the fire and boil
+five or six minutes, stirring the while; take off, mash through a
+strainer or a sieve, and it is ready for use.
+
+A bread-sauce is really a very poor sauce. Its insipidity is concealed
+by the great amount of pepper that it contains.
+
+_Brown Butter, or Beurre Noir._--This is butter set on the fire in a
+frying-pan and left till it turns perfectly brown, then a few sprigs of
+parsley are dropped in it, fried half a minute, and it is ready for use.
+
+It is sometimes used with vinegar, but in that case it is described in
+the receipts.
+
+_Caper._--Mix well together, cold, in a small saucepan, two ounces of
+butter and a tablespoonful of flour; then add a pint of broth, set on
+the fire, stir, and when thickening, add capers to taste, whole or
+chopped; give another boil, take from the fire, add salt, the yolk of an
+egg beaten with a teaspoonful of water, mix and serve.
+
+_Celery._--Proceed as for a caper-sauce in every particular except that
+you add three or four stalks of celery chopped fine, and then boil ten
+or twelve minutes, and strain it before using.
+
+_Colbert._--Set half a pint of meat gravy on the fire, in a small
+saucepan with half a dozen mushrooms and one or two truffles chopped
+fine (the latter, if handy), boil gently five minutes, add one ounce of
+butter, stir, and when the butter is melted and mixed with the rest, it
+is ready for use.
+
+_Coulis of Fish_, _or Fish Gravy_, is one and the same thing.
+
+Boil hard four eggs, and put the yolks in a mortar. Take a pike weighing
+about two pounds, clean, prepare, and broil it as directed; split it
+open, take all the bones and skin off, put the flesh in the mortar with
+the yolks, and pound the whole, and knead it with a little butter. Place
+a little butter, of the size of a walnut, in a stewpan, and set it on a
+good fire; when melted, fry in it till of a golden color, two carrots
+and two onions cut in slices; after that add also a piece of bay-leaf,
+two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a little isinglass, the eggs and
+fish, and cover with water; simmer gently about one hour and a half, and
+strain.
+
+If found too thin after it is strained, set it back on the fire, add a
+little more isinglass, and simmer fifteen minutes longer.
+
+_Coulis of Veal._--Place in a stewpan about one pound of veal, fillet or
+knuckle, with four ounces of bacon, not smoked, and cut fine; also a
+carrot cut fine, a little pepper, and grated nutmeg; set on a slow fire,
+cover well; half an hour after augment the fire, and as soon as you see
+the meat sticking to the pan, subdue it, leave it so ten minutes, then
+take from the fire, put the bacon, veal, and carrot on a dish; put
+butter about the size of an egg in the pan; when melted, sprinkle in it
+a teaspoonful of flour, stir with a wooden spoon, then put the meat back
+into it. Cover with warm broth and set on a slow fire for about two
+hours; take off, throw in it a few drops of cold water, skim off the
+fat, strain, and use.
+
+_Cream._--A cream-sauce is a _Bechamel_ made with cream instead of milk.
+
+It is often called _a la creme_, its French name.
+
+_Cucumber._--Proceed as for caper-sauce, using pickled cucumbers,
+chopped fine, instead of capers.
+
+_Egg._--Proceed as for caper-sauce in every particular, except that you
+use two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, instead of capers.
+
+_Diplomat._--Make a cream-sauce with one pint of cream. When made, put
+in it nearly half a pound of lobster butter, stir, and when the whole is
+well mixed, add also about a tablespoonful of essence of anchovy and mix
+again; pepper to taste, and use.
+
+It is a rich sauce, used with boiled fish and baked or roasted meat.
+
+_Espagnole._--This sauce is very seldom made in the kitchen of a family,
+except of a large and wealthy family, being a rather expensive one. In
+the kitchen of a family, gravy or even broth is used in its stead; but,
+when preparing an extra dinner, it should be made, and a little of it
+used in all the brown sauces, either for meat, fish, or vegetables.
+
+Spread about half a pound of butter in the bottom of a stewpan, lay in
+it lean ham and veal, partridge, wild rabbit, pheasant, or fowl of any
+kind, about four ounces of each, a small carrot cut in dice, one onion
+with a clove stuck in it, half a turnip, and a sprig of thyme; cover the
+pan and set it on the fire; let it simmer till reduced to a jelly, then
+mix in it two tablespoonfuls of flour, a wine-glass of white wine, cover
+with broth, add salt, pepper, a clove of garlic, a sprig of parsley, one
+clove, a bay-leaf, and two mushrooms cut in pieces; simmer from three
+to four hours, skim off the scum as soon as it comes on the surface;
+when done, take it from the fire, throw a few drops of cold water in,
+and skim off the fat, then strain and use.
+
+It will keep for some time if kept air-tight in a pot or bottle, and in
+a cool, dry place.
+
+_Essence of Spinage, or Spinach._--Soak in water, drain, dry, and pound
+well two or three handfuls of spinach, put them in a coarse towel and
+press the juice out, put it in a pan on a moderate fire, and when nearly
+boiling, take it off, strain, and add to it a little fine-crushed sugar,
+stir a little, and bottle when cold; it may be kept for months; use it
+where directed.
+
+_Sauce for every kind of Fish, boiled, baked, or roasted_.--Boil hard
+two eggs, take the yolks and pound them well, and place them in a bowl.
+Have boiling water on the fire, and put in it cives, burnet, chervil,
+tarragon, and parsley, four or five sprigs of each; boil five minutes,
+take off, drain and pound them well, then strain them on the eggs, add
+two tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar, two of French mustard, salt,
+pepper, and four tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, which you pour in, little
+by little, at the same time mixing the whole well with a boxwood spoon,
+and it is ready for use.
+
+_Fines Herbes._--Chop very fine a small handful of parsley, shallots,
+and chives; and proceed as for making a caper-sauce, except that you use
+the chopped spices instead of capers.
+
+_Genoise._--Put two ounces of butter in a small saucepan, set it on the
+fire, and when melted, mix in it a tablespoonful of flour; stir for one
+minute, add one-fourth of a carrot, sliced, stir now and then, and when
+nearly fried, add also a pint of broth, half a pint of claret wine, a
+small onion, and a clove of garlic, chopped; two cloves, a bay-leaf, two
+stalks of parsley, one of thyme, salt, and pepper; boil gently about one
+hour and forty minutes, and strain. If it boils away, add a little
+broth. Put it back on the fire with about half an ounce of butter, boil
+gently for about ten minutes, and it is ready for use.
+
+This sauce is excellent with any kind of boiled fish, but especially
+with trout, pike, and pickerel.
+
+A trout served with a _genoise_ sauce is considered a _recherche_ dish.
+
+_Hollandaise._--Set one ounce of butter on the fire in a saucepan, and
+when melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when turning
+rather yellow, add half a pint of broth, stir for one minute; add also
+four sprigs of parsley and four mushrooms chopped fine (one truffle
+sliced, if handy, would be excellent), a liquor-glass of Madeira, Port,
+or Sherry wine; boil gently ten minutes, stirring the while, and serve.
+
+_Indian._--This sauce may be used with fish, in summer and in southern
+places.
+
+Have a stewpan on a moderate fire, with two ounces of butter in it; when
+melted, add a teaspoonful of pimento, salt, a pinch of saffron, and one
+of grated nutmeg, also one and a half tablespoonfuls of flour--the
+latter you sprinkle in, little by little, stirring the while; cover with
+broth, boil twelve minutes and strain; afterward add two ounces of
+butter, stir a little, and use.
+
+_Italian._--Tie together two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, and a
+bay-leaf; put them in a stewpan with two or three mushrooms cut fine,
+one shallot, a small onion with a clove stuck in it, a piece of butter
+the size of a walnut, and half a pint of white wine; set on a gentle
+fire, and reduce it half; then add about one tablespoonful of olive-oil
+and half a pint of broth, simmer forty minutes, strain, and use.
+
+_Lobster._--Chop very fine or pound some of the flesh of a boiled
+lobster. Take a white or blonde sauce, and instead of taking it from the
+fire when done, turn the chopped flesh into it with a little piece of
+butter; stir, give one boil, and it is ready for use.
+
+_Craw-fish, prawn, shrimp,_ and _crab_ sauces are made the same as
+_lobster_ sauce.
+
+_Madeira._--Mix cold in a saucepan two ounces of butter with a
+tablespoonful of flour, set on the fire and stir till it turns rather
+brown; when add nearly a pint of gravy, stir till it is becoming thick;
+then add half a pint of Madeira wine, little by little, stirring the
+while, give one boil only, salt to taste, and then strain and use.
+
+_Champagne_ sauce is made in the same way, except that it must be poured
+in faster and used immediately.
+
+All wine sauces may be made in the same way. We mean wine sauces for
+meat or fish.
+
+_Maitre d'Hotel._--This sauce is sometimes called _butter_ _maitre
+d'hotel_. Mix and knead well together in a bowl, two ounces of butter, a
+tablespoonful of chopped parsley and the juice of a half lemon; salt to
+taste and use.
+
+Pepper, grated nutmeg, and chopped chives, may be added if liked. Using
+vinegar instead of lemon-juice makes an inferior sauce.
+
+_Mayonnaise._--In warm weather it is necessary to put the bowl on ice
+while making it. Put one or two yolks of fresh eggs in a bowl with a
+small pinch of salt; commence stirring with a box-wood spoon, or, what
+is still better, a stone or marble pestle. Stir without interruption,
+always in the same way and describing a circle. It is more easily done
+if the bowl is held steady. After having stirred about half a minute,
+commence pouring the oil in, drop by drop, and as soon as you see that
+it is thickening pretty well, add also a few drops of vinegar and same
+of lemon-juice; then continue with the oil in the same way. Every time
+that it becomes too thick, add a little vinegar, but continue stirring.
+You put as much oil as you please; two bottles of oil might be used and
+it would still be thick. Spread it on chicken salad, etc.
+
+_Tartar._--Chop some capers and shallots very fine, mix them well with a
+_mayonnaise_ when made, and you have a Tartar sauce.
+
+_Mushroom._--Proceed exactly as for caper-sauce, using chopped mushrooms
+instead of capers.
+
+_Piquante._--Take a small saucepan and set it on the fire with two
+ounces of butter in it, and when melted add a small onion chopped; stir,
+and when nearly fried add a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and when
+turning rather brown, add half a pint of broth, salt, pepper, a pickled
+cucumber chopped, four stalks of parsley, also chopped, and mustard;
+boil gently about ten minutes, add a teaspoonful of vinegar; give one
+boil, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Set the chopped onion on the fire with one gill of
+vinegar, and boil gently till the vinegar is entirely absorbed, or
+boiled away. Make the same sauce as above in another pan, omitting the
+onion and vinegar, and when done mix the two together, and it is ready
+for use.
+
+_Another._--Add three shallots, chopped fine, to the chopped onion, and
+proceed as above for the rest.
+
+_Parisienne._--Make a bunch of seasonings with six sprigs of parsley,
+one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and two cloves; put it in a saucepan with half
+a pint of chopped truffles, and about a pint of white wine; set on the
+fire and boil gently till about half reduced, strain, put back on the
+fire, turn into it, little by little, stirring the while, nearly a pint
+of gravy or _consomme_; continue stirring now and then till it begins to
+turn rather thick, add pepper to taste, strain, and use with fish and
+game.
+
+_Poivrade._--Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan, and
+set it on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in it, little by little, about
+a tablespoonful of flour, stirring the while; when of a proper
+thickness, and of a brownish color, take from the fire, add a
+tablespoonful of vinegar, a wine-glass of claret wine, a glass of broth,
+a shallot cut in two, a middling-sized onion, also cut in two, with a
+clove stuck in each piece, a sprig of thyme, one of parsley, a bay-leaf,
+a clove of garlic, a little salt, and two pepper-corns; boil about
+twenty minutes, strain and use.
+
+The vinegar, shallot, and onion may be boiled separately as for a
+_piquante_ sauce.
+
+_Polonaise._--Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
+when melted add two or three tablespoonfuls of the soft part of bread,
+bruised in a coarse towel; stir for about one minute, salt to taste, and
+use.
+
+Like the _Parisienne_, it is used with game.
+
+_Poulette._--Set a stewpan on the fire with a piece of butter the size
+of an egg in it; when melted, sprinkle in it a tablespoonful of flour,
+stirring the while; pour gently in it also, and little by little, a
+glass of warm water, and a wine-glass of white wine, or broth instead of
+both, salt, pepper, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a
+chopped shallot, a little nutmeg, four small white onions, and two or
+three mushrooms (the latter cut fine and fried in butter before using
+them); simmer till the whole is well cooked, strain and use.
+
+In case it should be found too light, add when done, and before taking
+from the fire, two or three yolks of eggs, and the juice of a lemon.
+
+_Princesse._--Make a cream-sauce with one pint of cream and set it on a
+moderate fire; immediately turn into it, stirring the while, about half
+a pint of reduced, good meat gravy; when thoroughly mixed, add two or
+three ounces of butter, stir for a couple of minutes longer, strain and
+use immediately.
+
+It is a very rich sauce, used with boiled fish and roasted or baked
+meat.
+
+_Provencale._--Chop fine two or three mushrooms, and two shallots; put
+the whole in a stewpan with a clove of garlic, and two tablespoonfuls of
+olive-oil; set on a moderate fire, and leave till half fried; then
+sprinkle in it half a teaspoonful of flour, stirring the while; add also
+half a pint of white wine, and as much broth, and two small onions, two
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, half a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper;
+simmer about half an hour, take from the fire, and a few minutes after
+skim off the fat; take out the garlic, onions, parsley, thyme, and
+bay-leaf, and it is then ready for immediate use.
+
+_Ravigote._--Chop fine, and in equal proportion, two tablespoonfuls of
+chervil, tarragon, and pepper-grass, also, in equal proportion, one
+teaspoonful of burnet and table celery; place the whole in a stewpan
+with salt and pepper, cover with broth, set on the fire, and boil twenty
+minutes; after which take from the fire, and strain. Mix two ounces of
+butter with flour enough to make a paste, put it with the sauce on the
+fire, add a tablespoonful of cider vinegar; simmer till of a proper
+thickness, and use.
+
+_Robert._--Put about four ounces of butter in a stewpan, set it on a
+moderate fire; when melted, sprinkle in it about a tablespoonful of
+flour, stirring the while; when of a brownish color, add three small
+onions chopped fine, salt, and pepper; stir, and leave on the fire till
+the whole is turning brown, then add a glass of broth, boil about thirty
+minutes, and strain; mix well in a cup one teaspoonful of vinegar, one
+of sugar, and one of mustard, which mix again with the sauce, and it is
+ready to be used.
+
+_Remolade._--Chop very fine a small handful of chervil, tarragon, and
+burnet, in equal proportion, and put them in a saucer or boat; add salt,
+pepper, nutmeg grated, and mustard, to taste; also one or two
+hard-boiled eggs cut in dice; mix the whole gently and well; then add
+the vinegar, and lastly the oil. The two latter ones are put in little
+by little, stirring gently the while. Serve as it is.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as for the above, except that you chop fine with the
+chervil, etc., some parsley, shallot, and garlic; the five spices in
+equal proportion.
+
+When finished, add also a pinch of sugar.
+
+_Roux._--Set a small saucepan on a moderate fire, with two ounces of
+butter in it; sprinkle into it, when melted, a tablespoonful of flour;
+stir, and when turning brown, use.
+
+_Shallot._--Chop the shallots, and proceed as for caper-sauce, using
+them instead of capers.
+
+_Soubise._--Put about half a pint of good meat gravy in a saucepan; set
+it on the fire, and when boiling add half a gill of Madeira wine; when
+well mixed, add also two or three tablespoonfuls of _puree_ of white
+onions, salt, and pepper; boil five minutes, stirring now and then, and
+it is made.
+
+A _soubise_ is an excellent sauce for baked or boiled fish, also for
+roasted meat.
+
+_Supreme._--This sauce is made in several ways. We will give here the
+three principal ones:
+
+1. Make an _Allemande_ sauce; and when done, add to it two ounces of
+butter and half a gill of _consomme_; stir and mix, and place on a brisk
+fire to start it boiling at once; take it from the fire as soon as it
+becomes thick; then add a few drops of lemon-juice, and use.
+
+2. Make a _roux_; add to it about half a pint of chicken gravy; stir or
+boil five or six minutes; then add two ounces of butter, the juice of a
+lemon, a pinch of parsley chopped fine; give one boil, and use.
+
+3. This is made like No. 2, except that you use an _Allemande_ sauce
+instead of a _roux_, and besides the pint of chicken gravy, etc., you
+add also half a gill of white wine.
+
+It is used especially with roasted chicken and game.
+
+_Tomato._--If you use fresh tomatoes, blanch them first; if preserved,
+use them as they are in the can. Put one pint of tomatoes in a saucepan
+with a small onion and a clove of garlic sliced; also two stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, one clove, six pepper-corns, and
+salt; boil gently till reduced about one-third, when mash gently through
+a strainer or sieve; all the tomato-seed and seasonings must remain in
+the strainer; put back on the fire, with a little piece of butter; give
+one boil, and it is done.
+
+_Truffle._--This sauce is made like a caper-sauce, using chopped or
+sliced truffles instead of capers.
+
+_Veloute._--This and gravy is nearly the same thing. It is gravy made as
+directed for gravy, with the addition of a dozen mushrooms chopped fine;
+and is used for sauces, like gravy, to make sauces richer than with
+broth.
+
+_Vinaigrette._--Put salt and pepper in a saucer (and mustard, if it is
+to be used with butcher's meat; but with fish, chicken, or birds, it is
+really too strong; it neutralizes the delicate flavor of the object),
+and pour vinegar over, little by little, beating with a fork at the
+same time; then pour the oil, also little by little, and while beating;
+a little chopped parsley is also added; and serve with cold meat, fish,
+or vegetables.
+
+It is quickly made, is good, and makes an excellent dish for breakfast,
+served as we said above.
+
+_White._--Put two ounces of butter in a small saucepan and set it on the
+fire, stir a little, and as soon as melted, remove on a rather slow
+fire; add a tablespoonful of flour, stir continually till thoroughly
+mixed (two or three minutes); then add again about a pint of boiling
+water, pouring gently, and stirring the while, take off when it begins
+to turn thick; add a yolk of egg beaten with a teaspoonful of cold
+water, mix it well with the rest, and it is ready for use; after having
+mixed, also salt and white pepper to taste.
+
+_Oyster._--Add to a white sauce some oysters blanched; then stir and mix
+with the whole the juice of half a lemon.
+
+_Muscle._--Boil the muscles about one minute and make as oyster-sauce.
+
+
+  SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS.
+
+_Milk._--Put in a block-tin saucepan four tablespoonfuls of sugar, one
+of flour, four yolks of eggs, one pint of milk; essence to flavor, and
+mix the whole well; set on a good but not sharp fire, stir continually
+till it begins to become rather thick; take off, turn over the pudding,
+and serve.
+
+_Madeira._--Set a saucepan on the fire with one ounce of butter in it;
+as soon as melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir till it turns
+rather yellow, and add also one pint of water, four ounces of sugar, and
+a few drops of burnt sugar; boil gently, about twenty-five minutes; add
+nearly a gill of Madeira wine, boil again ten minutes, and serve in a
+boat.
+
+_Rum._--Proceed as for Madeira-sauce, except you use half a gill of rum
+instead of Madeira.
+
+_Brandy._--Proceed as for rum-sauce, using the same proportion of
+brandy.
+
+
+
+
+  FARCES AND GARNITURES,
+
+  CALLED ALSO GARNISH AND GARNISHING, USED TO DECORATE OR ORNAMENT DISHES.
+
+
+_With Bread._--Put in a tureen about a pound of the soft part of bread,
+and cover with broth; when it has absorbed the broth, place it in a
+stewpan, set it on a slow fire, and leave till it becomes a thick paste;
+stir now and then, then mix well with it three yolks of eggs, and it is
+ready for use.
+
+_With Cabbage._--Throw into boiling water a little salt and a
+middling-sized cabbage; boil it half an hour, take it from the kettle
+with a skimmer, throw it in cold water, and drain it, pressing it a
+little in the drainer to force the water out; cut off the stump, and
+chop the cabbage fine. Have in a stewpan on the fire, three or four
+ounces of fresh butter; put the cabbage in when the butter is half
+melted, sprinkling on while stirring a teaspoonful of flour; pour on it,
+little by little, some broth, stirring the while, and when it has a fine
+brownish color, wet with broth enough to boil it; season with salt, a
+little grated nutmeg, and four pepper-corns; boil gently till the sauce
+is thick enough, take away the pepper-corns, and use.
+
+_With Combs of Chicken._--Soak the combs over night in cold water, and
+then clean them well by wiping roughly with a coarse towel, wetted and
+salted; wash and drain them; put a dozen of them in a saucepan with two
+sweetbreads blanched, cover the whole with broth, and boil till done;
+then add salt, pepper, a few drops of lemon-juice, and it is ready for
+use.
+
+_With Cauliflowers._--Proceed as for cabbage in every particular, except
+that it does not require as long doing.
+
+With _Croutons._--Cut pieces of soft part of stale bread in different
+shapes, and fry them on both sides in butter or fat.
+
+For potage, they are cut in dice, but for decorating dishes, they are
+cut either round, square, oblong, or of a heart, star-like, half moon,
+butterfly, or flower shape, and about one-quarter of an inch thick. Take
+them off with a skimmer, and turn into a colander to drain.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The cut _d_ is used for potage, and _a_, _b_, _c_, etc., are used to
+decorate.
+
+_Duxelle._--Make a _fines-herbes_ sauce, and when ready to be used, add
+half a gill of gravy, and give one boil; add also two or three yolks of
+eggs, simmer one minute, and use warm.
+
+Mushrooms, whole or in slices, may be added at the same time the yolks
+of eggs are added.
+
+_With Eggs._--Mash and mix well together six hard-boiled yolks of eggs
+with three yolks not cooked, salt and pepper. Put the mixture in parts
+on the paste-board, which must be previously dusted with flour; roll
+each part and give it the shape of a small egg (a pigeon's egg or a
+little larger). When the whole is thus prepared, drop in boiling water,
+boil till cooked, and use to decorate meat or fish.
+
+_Financiere._--A garniture _financiere_ is the same as a garniture with
+combs of chicken, to which are added some mushrooms and truffles, both
+cut in slices.
+
+It is generally served with a roast chicken.
+
+_With Livers._--Geese livers are the best, being the fattest. Drop two
+geese livers in boiling water and a little salt, boil three minutes and
+drain. Put in a saucepan one gill of broth, same of white wine, Sauterne
+or Catawba, a tablespoonful of gravy, six pepper-corns, two or three
+stalks of parsley, salt, and the livers; set on the fire and boil gently
+for about twenty-five minutes. Take off the livers, boil a few minutes
+longer to thicken the sauce, turn it over the livers through a strainer,
+and it is ready.
+
+The same may be done with the livers of poultry or any other kind of
+birds; the seasonings are the same, and the proportion is according to
+the size or to the number of livers.
+
+Besides being used as garnishing, it may be served as a breakfast dish.
+
+_Macedoine._--Blanch a dozen of Brussels cabbages. Blanch also half a
+dozen asparagus cut in pieces about an inch long. Put four ounces of
+butter in a saucepan on the fire, and when melted put it into a gill of
+carrots, same of turnips, both cut with a vegetable spoon, also a dozen
+small onions; stir now and then till the whole is about half done, when
+add a little over a pint of broth and the Brussels cabbages; boil about
+ten minutes. Then add again the blanched asparagus, half a dozen
+mushrooms, broth just enough to cover the whole, simmer till every thing
+is done, salt and pepper to taste, a pinch of sugar and it is ready for
+use.
+
+Water may be used instead of broth, but is inferior.
+
+A _macedoine_ may be served with any meat--roasted, baked, or broiled.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Chop fine half a pint of fresh mushrooms and two
+tablespoonfuls of parsley. Set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of
+fat grated salt pork in it, as much butter, and as soon as the butter is
+melted put the mushrooms and parsley in; season with salt, pepper, a
+little grated nutmeg, and a quarter of a pint of white wine; let boil
+gently till reduced to a jelly, and use.
+
+When done, three or four yolks of eggs may be mixed with it.
+
+_With Onions._--Put a dozen onions in a crockery saucepan and half cover
+them with broth. Cover the pan as well as possible, simmer till cooked,
+then add a teaspoonful of sugar, salt, simmer again for about ten
+minutes, basting now and then, and serve warm with beef, mutton, or
+venison.
+
+_Quenelles._--Chop fine one pound of fresh veal, half lean and half
+fat--the fat nearest the kidney is the best; then pound it well and mash
+it through a sieve. Mix two yolks of eggs with it, and season to taste
+with salt, pepper, nutmeg grated, and powdered cinnamon. Spread flour on
+the paste-board, put a teaspoonful of meat here and there; roll gently
+each part into small balls, using as little flour as possible. They may
+also be rolled of an olive shape. Throw the balls into boiling broth or
+boiling water at the first boiling, boil five minutes and drain. As soon
+as cold they are ready for use.
+
+_Boulettes_, _fricadelles_, _godiveau_, and _quenelles_ are one and the
+same thing.
+
+Whole eggs may be used instead of the yolks only, add also a few
+bread-crumbs. To the seasonings above some parsley chopped fine may be
+added.
+
+Make _quenelles_ with any kind of meat--butcher's meat, poultry, and
+game, also with fish well boned.
+
+To the lean meat add the same weight of fat veal, as above directed, or,
+in its stead, beef suet.
+
+Truffles or mushrooms, or both, may be added to the mixture, either of
+meat or of fish.
+
+_Quenelles_ are used for garnitures, etc. They may be fried instead of
+boiled.
+
+_Salpicon._--Cut in dice an equal quantity of each, and to weigh
+altogether about one pound and a half, calf sweetbreads, livers, or
+flesh of fowls, and ham--three kinds in all; also two mushrooms and two
+truffles; all must be nearly cooked in water beforehand. Put them in a
+stewpan, season with salt, pepper, a bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, an
+onion, a sprig of parsley, and one of thyme; cover with half a pint of
+broth, and as much of white wine; set on a slow fire; it must not boil,
+but simmer gently; stir now and then till the whole is well cooked; take
+out the bay-leaf, onion, garlic, parsley, and thyme. In case the sauce
+should not be thick enough, add a little fecula, stir, and leave awhile
+longer on the fire, and it is ready for use.
+
+_With Truffles._--Slice the truffles and put them in a saucepan with a
+pinch of sugar, broth and claret wine enough to cover them, half of
+each, simmer for about twenty minutes, add a little potato starch, boil
+gently till it begins to thicken, and use.
+
+_Lobster Butter._--Put the flesh of the two large claws of a boiled
+lobster with a little of the inside, about a tablespoonful, in a mortar
+and pound well. Add about the same volume of good butter and pound again
+till the whole is well mixed. It is then mashed through a fine sieve,
+and is ready for use. When the lobster has coral, it is pounded with the
+rest, and gives a fine color to the butter.
+
+If the lobster has no coral, a piece of the reddest part of the shell is
+pounded with the rest, when the butter is to be colored.
+
+This butter may be used instead of ordinary butter for fish-sauces, or
+for making a _maitre d'hotel_ for boiled fish, or for garnishing the
+same.
+
+To clarify it, just put the butter into a bowl when made, put the bowl
+in a boiling _bain-marie_ for about half an hour, take off and
+immediately turn it through a cloth into a bowl half full of cold water.
+The cloth must be rather twisted, to cause the butter to run through.
+When it is in the bowl, stir it till rather hard; work it in a ball, and
+wipe it dry.
+
+Thus clarified it is finer than when used merely mixed.
+
+The same butter may be made, and in the same way, with _craw-fish_,
+_prawns_, and _shrimps_.
+
+_Horse-radish Butter._--Grate some horse-radish and mix it well with
+about the same volume of butter, mash through a sieve, and it is ready
+for use.
+
+_Tarragon_ and _garlic_ butter are made as the above.
+
+If the butter be found too strong, use more butter and less of garlic,
+etc.
+
+_Ravigote Butter_ (called also _Beurre de Montpellier_).--Blanch the
+following spices: parsley, tarragon, chives, chervil--parsley and
+chervil in equal proportion and about half as much of the two others,
+about two handfuls altogether--drain dry and put them in a mortar with
+two anchovies boned, one shallot chopped and bruised in a coarse towel,
+half a dozen capers, a rather small piece of pickled cucumber, four
+ounces of butter, two hard-boiled yolks of eggs, and the juice of half a
+lemon. Pound the whole well together, then add a tablespoonful of
+essence of spinach, mix well, mash through a sieve, and use.
+
+This butter is excellent to decorate and to eat with cold fish. It is
+sometimes used with cold birds.
+
+_Hazel-nut Butter._--Pound some hazel-nuts or filberts and then mix
+throughly with good butter, mash through a sieve, and use as ordinary
+butter. The proportion according to taste. It is easily prepared, and is
+delicious.
+
+Do the same with _pea-nuts_, or any other nut.
+
+_Melted Butter._--Put butter in a crockery vessel and place it above a
+pan of water or some other liquid, heated but not boiling, so that the
+butter will melt slowly and gradually. Sometimes the butter may be
+wanted soft only, or what is called melted soft, or thoroughly melted.
+It is easy to obtain those different states above with heated liquor,
+and the butter, though melted, is more firm than when melted on the
+fire.
+
+_Scented Butter._--Whenever a certain flavor is desired with butter, put
+a piece of firm and good butter in a bowl with a few drops of essence,
+knead well, and then mash through a sieve.
+
+
+  PUREES.
+
+_Purees_ are made with vegetables, but when the flesh or poultry or
+other birds is mashed through a sieve after being cooked, it is
+sometimes called a _puree_ also.
+
+The bones of a ham, after the flesh is disposed of, is the most
+excellent thing you can put with the vegetables to boil them in order to
+make _purees_.
+
+One-third of the bones of a middling-sized ham is enough for about a
+quart of vegetables.
+
+When you have no ham bones, use four ounces of good salt pork, as lean
+as possible; but never use smoked pork, it gives a disagreeable taste to
+the puree.
+
+_Of Dry Beans, white or colored, Kidney, Lima, or any other kind._--Dry
+beans must be soaked in cold water, or even in lukewarm water, when in a
+hurry. According to the nature of the beans, they must be soaked for
+from six to twenty-four hours.
+
+Soak a quart of beans as directed above; drain and put them in a
+saucepan with one-third of the bones of a ham, or about four ounces of
+salt pork; cover with cold water, season with a bay-leaf, a sprig of
+thyme, two of parsley, two middling-sized onions, with two cloves stuck
+in them, and a carrot cut in pieces; when the whole is well cooked,
+throw away thyme, bay-leaf, onions, and cloves; mash well through a
+colander all the rest except the bacon.
+
+While mashing them through the colander, wet them with some of the water
+in which they have boiled, else it would be difficult and long.
+
+When mashed, put them in a saucepan with a little broth or water, salt,
+and two ounces of butter; stir now and then till the butter is melted
+and thoroughly mixed with the rest, and it is ready for use. The
+quantity of broth or water is according to how thick or thin they are
+wanted. The salt pork is good to eat.
+
+_Of Lentils._--It is made in the same way as that of beans, except that
+they do not require to be soaked more than five or six hours in cold
+water.
+
+_Of Peas (dry or split)._--Proceed as for lentils in every particular.
+
+_Of Chestnuts._--Remove the skin of a quart of chestnuts and drop them
+in boiling water, with a little salt. As soon as the under skin comes
+off easily, take them from the fire, drain, drop them in cold water, and
+then remove the under or white skin; put them in a saucepan with about
+one quart of broth, set on the fire and boil gently till well done, and
+mash through a colander.
+
+Then put the chestnuts, and what is left of the broth, in a saucepan,
+set on the fire, stir, add a pinch of sugar and an ounce of butter; give
+one boil, and it is made.
+
+_Of Green Peas._--Wash a quart of green peas in cold water, and drain;
+put two quarts of cold water on the fire in a saucepan, with a little
+salt, and at the first boil throw the peas in, season with three or four
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, two onions, and two cloves, a carrot in
+slices, salt, and pepper; boil till tender. It may take only two
+minutes, or it may require half an hour, according to how tender the
+peas are.
+
+Mash through a colander, and finish like puree of beans, using either
+broth or water. With broth it is richer and better.
+
+_Of Lima Beans._--Proceed for green Limas as for green peas.
+
+_Of Sweet Corn._--It is made like that of green peas.
+
+_Of Asparagus._--Cut the eatable part of the asparagus in pieces, and
+proceed as for _puree_ of green peas.
+
+_Of Potatoes._--Steam a quart of potatoes, and then mash them well; put
+them in a saucepan with half a pint of milk, two ounces of butter, and
+salt; set on the fire, stir now and then, take off and use. It takes
+about fifteen minutes after being set back on the fire.
+
+_Another way._--Proceed as above, using broth or water instead of milk.
+
+_Of Jerusalem Artichokes._--Prepared as potatoes.
+
+_Of Carrots._--Clean well, and cut in slices, a dozen middling-sized
+carrots; put them in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, and set on
+the fire; when about half fried, cover with broth or water; season with
+half a bay-leaf, a small sprig of thyme, one of parsley, a small onion,
+and a clove stuck in it; when the whole is well cooked, throw away
+onion, clove, bay-leaf, and thyme, mash the rest through a colander;
+then put back on the fire, with a little butter; simmer for about two
+hours, stirring occasionally, and it is made.
+
+In case it should turn too thick, add broth or water.
+
+The longer they are simmered, the better the taste.
+
+_Of Turnips._--Proceed as with carrots in every particular.
+
+_Of Celery._--It is always made with turnip-rooted celery. Clean the
+celery well, wash and cut it in pieces, and prepare as _puree of
+carrots_, adding a teaspoonful of sugar.
+
+_Of Cauliflowers._--Separate the branches, and throw them in boiling
+water and salt; boil two minutes and drain. Put them on the fire with
+broth or water, enough just to cover them, two or three stalks of
+parsley, and salt to season.
+
+Boil gently till tender; remove the parsley; mash through a colander;
+put back on the fire with a little butter and white pepper, simmer about
+ten minutes, stirring now and then the while, and it is ready for use.
+
+Instead of butter, some cream may be added.
+
+_Of Pumpkin._--Made exactly the same as that of cauliflowers, after the
+pumpkin is peeled and cut in pieces.
+
+_Of Squash._--Same as pumpkin.
+
+_Of Spinach._--Clean the spinach, and cut off the stem; the leaf only is
+good; wash and drain it; put cold water and a little salt on the fire,
+and throw the spinach in at the first boil. When tender, drain and drop
+immediately in cold water; drain again, and then chop it very fine.
+After being chopped, it may be mashed through a sieve, to have it finer;
+put it back on the fire without any water at all, and when it gets
+rather dry, add a little flour; stir and mix; add again a little gravy
+or good broth; stir, then salt to taste, and it is ready for use.
+
+If the spinach is young and tender, it takes only two or three minutes
+boiling before chopping it.
+
+From the time it is put back on the fire, it takes about five or six
+minutes to finish it.
+
+_Of Sorrel._--Proceed as with spinach in every particular.
+
+_Of Mushrooms._--Clean well and cut in pieces a quart of fresh
+mushrooms; soak them in cold water, in which you have put the juice of a
+lemon; drain, and chop them fine. Put a stewpan on the fire, with a
+piece of butter the size of a duck's egg; when melted, put your
+mushrooms in; when half fried, add the juice of a lemon, finish frying,
+then cover with some roux-sauce; let simmer till it becomes rather
+thick, strain and use.
+
+_Of Onions._--Peel, quarter, and blanch for eight minutes, a dozen
+onions. Drain and put them in a saucepan with four or six ounces of
+butter, according to the size of the onions; set on a slow fire, stir
+now and then till well done; then season with salt, a little flour, stir
+for two minutes to cook the flour, and mix it thoroughly with the rest;
+take from the fire; add cream, little by little, stirring the while. It
+does not require much cream to make the _puree_ of a proper thickness.
+Mash through a sieve or fine colander, add a pinch of sugar, and it is
+ready for use.
+
+It makes an excellent _puree_, and is good served with nearly every kind
+of meat.
+
+Made with white onions, and properly mashed through a sieve, it looks
+like cream, and is almost as white as snow.
+
+
+
+
+  FISH.
+
+
+The Indians bleed the fish as soon as caught, because the flesh is
+firmer when cooked.
+
+The Dutch and the French bleed the cod, which accounts for the better
+quality and whiteness of their cod-fish.
+
+_To select._--To be good, fish must be fresh. It is fresh when the eyes
+are clear, the fins stiff, the gills red, hard to open, and without bad
+odor.
+
+_To clean and prepare for boiling._--The sooner fish is cleaned the
+better. Cut the belly open, take the inside out, wash well and wipe dry
+immediately with a clean towel, inside and out. Place the eggs or soft
+roes inside, and tie with twine. It is then ready to be boiled.
+
+If not cooked as soon as cleaned and prepared, keep it on ice.
+
+_To clean and prepare for baking, frying, roasting, and to cut in
+pieces, etc._--Scale the fish well, holding it by the head or tail; cut
+the belly open and take the inside out; trim off the fins, gills, and
+tail; wash well inside and out, and wipe dry immediately.
+
+Keep it on ice if not used immediately.
+
+_Same Family, or Kind._--We give only one receipt for all the fishes of
+the same family, or having the same kind of flesh, as they are cooked
+alike, and require the same spices.
+
+Almost every kind of fish is boiled, broiled, fried, or stewed. Some are
+better boiled than broiled, others better fried than stewed, etc. With
+few exceptions, any eatable fish may be cooked in these four ways. Few
+are roasted.
+
+_To know when cooked enough._--It is very difficult, if not entirely
+impossible, to tell how long it takes to cook fish, as it depends as
+much on the size, kind, or quality of the fish as on the fire; but as
+soon as the flesh comes off the bones easily, the fish is cooked; this
+is very easy to be ascertained with a knife.
+
+_To improve._--Clean the fish as for baking, etc., and lay it in a
+crockery vessel with the following seasonings under and upon it: parsley
+and onions chopped fine, salt, pepper, thyme, bay-leaves, and vinegar or
+oil; turn it over occasionally, and leave thus for two or three hours.
+
+_To bone._--Slit the fish on one side of the backbone and fins, from
+head to tail; then run the knife between the bones and the flesh so as
+to detach the whole side from the rest; do the same for the other side.
+
+For a flounder, or any other flat fish, slit right in the middle of both
+sides of the fish so as to make four instead of two pieces.
+
+The head, bones, and fins are not used at all, and are left in one
+piece.
+
+_To serve, when boiled._--The fish is placed on a napkin and on a dish
+or platter, surrounded with parsley, and the sauce served in a saucer.
+
+_To skin._--Take hold of the piece of fish by the smaller end, and with
+the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; run the knife between the
+flesh and skin, moving the knife to and fro as if you were sawing.
+Throw away the skin, and the fish is ready for cooking.
+
+If the skin were breaking, as it happens sometimes, take hold of it
+again, and proceed as before.
+
+_To decorate._--Fish may be decorated with jelly, but it is easier and
+more sightly with craw-fish. The skewers are stuck in the fish as they
+are in a _fillet of beef_.
+
+The craw-fish when boiled are red like the lobster, and, besides using
+them with skewers, some may be placed all around the fish; it is
+delicate eating as well as sightly. Skewers are never used with fish in
+_vinaigrette_, or when the fish is cut in pieces. The craw-fish has only
+to be boiled before using it for decorating fish.
+
+_Shrimps_ and _prawns_ are used the same as craw-fish.
+
+_Oysters_ are also used, raw or blanched; run the skewer through a large
+oyster or craw-fish, then through a slice of truffle; again through an
+oyster, truffle, etc.; through two, three, or more of each, according to
+the size of the skewer or of the fish.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Fish-kettle._--A fish-kettle must have a double bottom. It is more
+handy to take the fish off without breaking it, and there is no danger
+of having it spoiled while cooking. Fish-kettles are found in every
+house-furnishing store.
+
+_Baked._--Clean and prepare the fish, as directed for baking; put it in
+a baking-pan with salt, pepper, and butter spread all over it; just
+cover the bottom of the pan with water or broth; place a piece of
+buttered paper over it and bake. Baste two or three times; take off when
+done, and serve warm with a sauce.
+
+While the fish is baking you prepare the sauce, put it in a boat, and
+serve warm with the fish.
+
+A baked fish may be served with its gravy only, adding a few drops of
+lemon-juice or vinegar, or with any kind of sauce, according to taste.
+
+_Balls._--Fish-balls are often called _fish-cakes_ or _fish-croquettes_.
+They are generally made with cold fish, but it may be cooked especially
+to make balls.
+
+Fish, full of bones, like shad, is not fit to make balls; cod is the
+easiest.
+
+Commence by chopping the flesh very fine, then chop fine also a small
+piece of onion and fry it with butter (half a middling-sized onion with
+two ounces of butter are enough for half a pound of fish); when fried
+stir in it a tablespoonful of flour, and about half a minute after turn
+the fish in with about a gill of broth or water, salt, pepper, and a
+pinch of nutmeg; stir till it turns rather thick, which will take two or
+three minutes; take from the fire, mix two yolks of eggs with it; put
+back on the fire for about one minute, stirring the while; then add two
+or three mushrooms or one truffle, or both, chopped fine. Turn the
+mixture into a dish, spread it, and put it away to cool for two or three
+hours, or over night.
+
+Before cooking, mix the whole well, the upper part being more dry than
+that which is under; put it in parts on the paste-board, roll each part
+to the shape you wish, either round, oval, or flat; the paste-board must
+be dusted with bread-crumbs or flour to help in handling the mixture,
+then boil or fry, according to taste.
+
+It may also be baked in cakes.
+
+When fried, they may be dipped in beaten egg, rolled in bread-crumbs,
+and then fried in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.)
+
+_Boiled._--Clean and prepare the fish as directed, and put it in a
+fish-kettle; cover it with cold water (sea-water is the best); add the
+following seasonings to a pound of fish: two stalks of parsley, one of
+tarragon if handy, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and half a
+middling-sized onion sliced; salt if boiled in fresh water. Set on the
+fire, and, for a fish weighing two pounds or under, take off at the
+first boiling--it is done enough. For a fish weighing five pounds, boil
+five minutes, etc., that is, about one minute for each pound. If it were
+a thick slice of fish instead of a whole one, weighing two or three
+pounds, it should be boiled two or three minutes longer, etc., according
+to thickness.
+
+_Broiled._--Slit the fish on the back and clean it; salt and pepper it;
+have a little melted butter and spread it all over the fish, on both
+sides, with a brush, and broil it. (_See_ Broiling.)
+
+While the fish is broiling, prepare a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce, spread it
+on the fish as soon as dished, and serve.
+
+It may also be served with anchovy butter.
+
+_Fried._--Any small fish of the size of a smelt, or smaller, is better
+fried than prepared in any other way.
+
+Clean and prepare the fish as directed, wipe it dry. Dip it in milk,
+place in a colander for five minutes, then roll in flour, and fry. It
+may also be fried just rolled in flour.
+
+_Another way._--When wiped dry, dip in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs,
+and fry.
+
+_Another._--When wiped dry, dip the fish in butter, and fry. Then the
+fish is dropped in hot fat (_see_ Frying), turned into a colander,
+salted, and served hot, with fried parsley around or in the middle,
+according to how the fish is arranged in the dish.
+
+Fry the following as above: _carp_, _tench_, _frost_, _bass_, _perch_,
+_black and blue fish_, _gold_, _loach_, _mullet_, _porgy_, _weak_,
+_flounder_, _pike_, _pickerel_, _smelt_, _sun_, _herring_, and
+_white-fish of the lakes_.
+
+_A la Orly._--If it is small fish, like the smelt, it is prepared whole;
+if the fish is larger, it must be boned and skinned, and cut in pieces
+about two inches long. Roll the fish, or pieces of fish, slightly in
+flour; dip it in beaten egg, and roll it again in bread-crumbs; then fry
+it in hot fat as above.
+
+When fried, serve it with a tomato-sauce.
+
+The fish may be served on a napkin in a dish, and the sauce in a boat or
+saucer.
+
+_Roasted._--The following fishes only are roasted: _eel_, _salmon_,
+_shad_, _pike_, _turbot_.
+
+Clean and prepare as directed, and then tie with twine. Spread salt,
+pepper, and melted butter (with a brush) all over the fish, and then
+envelop it in buttered paper; set on the spit and roast. Baste with a
+little melted butter, and remove the paper about five minutes before it
+is done.
+
+When on the dish the twine is cut off and removed, and it is served as
+hot as possible with the following sauces, to which tarragon is added in
+making them, if handy: _caper_, _Hollandaise_, _Mayonnaise_, _piquante_,
+_poivrade_, and _remolade_. A roast fish is served after roast meat.
+
+_Another way._--Clean, and cut in slices half an inch thick, or leave
+entire, as it suits you; skin it well; lay it in a crockery vessel,
+spread over it some chopped parsley, grated nutmeg, salt, pepper, and
+two gills of white wine (this is for about three pounds), leave thus
+two hours; then take the fish only, envelop it in buttered paper, fix it
+on the spit before a good fire, baste with the wine and seasonings from
+the crockery dish, and when nearly done take the paper off; finish the
+cooking, basting the while, and serve with the drippings, to which you
+may add a little vinegar, sweet-oil, and mustard.
+
+If there is any left, you can serve it cold the next day with an
+oil-sauce.
+
+_Saute._--Scale, clean, and prepare the fish as directed. For one pound
+of fish put about one ounce of butter in a frying-pan on the fire, and
+when melted put the fish in; fry it on both sides, and serve it with a
+_maitre d'hotel_.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean and prepare as directed three pounds of fish, cut it in
+pieces about two inches long. Put in a fish-kettle four ounces of
+butter, kneaded with a teaspoonful of flour, and the same of chopped
+parsley, add two or three mushrooms cut in pieces, salt and pepper, then
+the fish and a glass of claret wine, or a wine-glass of vinegar; cover
+with water, set on a good fire, boil gently till cooked; dish the pieces
+of fish, strain the sauce on them, spread the pieces of mushrooms over,
+and serve.
+
+_Stuffed._--When cleansed, cut out the backbone from the head to within
+two inches of the tail, and fill its place with the following mixture:
+soak stale bread in cold water and then squeeze the water out; put one
+ounce of butter into a saucepan and set it on the fire; as soon as
+melted, fry in it one middle-sized onion, chopped fine; then add the
+bread; stir for two minutes, add also salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg,
+two or three tablespoonfuls of broth; stir again two or three minutes;
+take the pan from the fire, add a yolk of egg, put back on the fire for
+half a minute, stirring the while, take off again, add a teaspoonful of
+chopped parsley, and use. When full, tie the fish with twine; place it
+in a baking-pan, salt and pepper it; spread a little butter on it also;
+cover the bottom of the pan with cold water, bake and serve with its
+gravy.
+
+If there is not gravy enough, or if it has dried away, add a little
+broth a few minutes before taking from the oven.
+
+_Fish au Gratin._--Bone and skin the fish as directed. For a fish
+weighing about two pounds, spread one ounce of butter on a tin plate or
+baking-pan, spread over it half an onion, chopped; place the pieces of
+fish on them; add salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of vinegar or a
+wine-glass of white wine, and half an ounce of butter; spread over and
+bake.
+
+While it is baking, put in a small saucepan one ounce of butter, and set
+it on the fire; when melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir,
+and, when it is turning yellow, add also about one gill of broth, two
+tablespoonfuls of meat-gravy, the juice of the fish when baked (if the
+fish be not done when the time comes to put the juice in the pan, keep
+the pan in a warm place, and wait), salt, and pepper; boil gently about
+five minutes, stirring occasionally. Place the fish in a tin or silver
+dish, spread three or four mushrooms sliced over it; turn the sauce
+gently over the whole, dust with bread-crumbs; put half an ounce of
+butter, in four or five pieces, on the whole; bake ten or twelve
+minutes, and serve in the dish in which it is.
+
+_In Matelote._--Every kind of fish is good in _matelote_, but the
+following are the best: _bass_, _black-fish_, _blue-fish_, _carp_,
+_eel_, _perch_, _pickerel_, _pike_, _porgy_, _tench_, _trout_, and
+_craw-fish_.
+
+A _matelote_ may be made of eels alone, but it is better with eels and
+one, two, or three other kinds of fish.
+
+Eels tasting of mud are not good. There is a sure way of taking away the
+muddy taste, but it is a rather expensive one. Boil them a few minutes
+in claret wine and a little salt, before using them.
+
+Clean, and prepare as directed, one pound of eels, one pound of pike,
+and one pound of trout, or one pound of any of the fishes named
+above--in all, three pounds. Cut the fish in pieces about two inches
+long, fry it slightly with a little butter, and put it away for awhile.
+
+Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire; when
+melted, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir, and, when the flour is
+turning rather brown, add also about a quart of broth, a pint of claret,
+a bunch of seasonings, composed of half a dozen stalks of parsley, two
+of thyme, two bay-leaves, and two cloves, also salt, pepper, two cloves
+of garlic, and six button onions; boil gently for about half an hour.
+Then put the fish in with from six to twelve mushrooms, broth enough to
+cover the whole, if the broth and wine already in do not cover it; boil
+gently for about half an hour, or till the fish is cooked, tossing the
+saucepan now and then; dish the fish; place the mushrooms and onions all
+over; sprinkle the sauce over it through a strainer, and serve warm.
+_Croutons_ may be served around.
+
+_Another, or Mariniere._--Prepare and cut the fish as for the above, but
+instead of frying it put it in a saucepan, into which you have put
+previously about half a dozen sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two
+bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, twelve small onions, two cloves, salt,
+and pepper; when the fish is placed over the above seasonings, cover
+entirely with claret wine. Set the saucepan on a sharp fire, and, as
+soon as it boils, throw into it a glass of French brandy, set it on
+fire, and let it burn. It will not burn very long, but enough to give a
+good taste to it. As soon as it stops burning, knead four ounces of
+butter with a tablespoonful of flour, and put it in the pan; toss the
+pan gently now and then till done. It takes about forty minutes with a
+good fire.
+
+When done, dish the fish carefully, place the mushrooms all over it, the
+onions all around, strain the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_Croutons_ may also be served with the rest; put around the fish one
+_crouton_, then an onion, and so on, all around.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as for the above, in every particular, except that
+you cover the fish and seasonings with broth and white wine, half of
+each, instead of claret. Serve in the same way.
+
+A _matelote_ may be made three or four days in advance, and then warmed
+in boiling water (_bain-marie_) just before serving it.
+
+Many prefer a _matelote_ made four days before eating it, and prepared
+in the following way: When made, put it away to cool as quickly as
+possible; twenty-four hours after that, warm it in boiling water; cool,
+and warm again in the same way once a day. If the sauce becomes thick,
+add a little broth. Serve warm.
+
+_Vinaigrette_.--Boil a fish as directed, take it from the kettle and let
+cool; then dish it. Chop fine the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs; do the
+same with the two whites; chop also a handful of parsley. Put a string
+of the yolks on both sides of the fish, then along that a string of the
+whites, and along these a string of the parsley; along the parsley, and
+about half an inch apart, a string of capers. Cut a lemon in sixteen
+slices, and in the following way: first split the lemon in two
+lengthwise, then split again each half in two and lengthwise also; by
+splitting four times, you have sixteen pieces, resembling somewhat the
+carpels of oranges. After the first splitting, hold the piece of lemon
+with the nail of the left thumb, the rind downward, and always split
+lengthwise and in the middle. Place eight pieces on each side of the
+dish and along the capers, and serve cold, with stalks of parsley on top
+of the fish, and also two or three in its mouth.
+
+Serve with it a vinaigrette, in a saucer or boat.
+
+The following fishes, _bass_, _black and blue fish_, _carp_, _cat_,
+_dory_, _drum_, _gar_, _gurnard_, _herring_, _king_, _lump_, _mackerel_,
+_parr_, _perch_, _pickerel_, _pike_, _pilot_, _porgy_, _roach_, _rock_,
+_scup_, _sucker_, _sword_, _tautog_, _tench_, _trout_, _troutlet_,
+_weak_, and _weaver_, after being baked or boiled as directed, may be
+served with the following sauces: _anchovy_, _caper_, _genevoise_,
+_genoise_, _au gratin_, _Hollandaise_, _Italienne_, _matelote_,
+_tomato_, _Tartar_, and _vinaigrette_.
+
+It would be perfectly useless to have a receipt for each fish, since the
+preparation is the same.
+
+The same fishes are also prepared _au court bouillon_. Clean and prepare
+about three pounds of fish, as directed for baking, etc. It may be one
+fish or several, according to size. Place the fish in a fish-kettle,
+just cover it with cold water and a gill of vinegar, or with half water
+and half white wine; season with three or four sprigs of parsley, one of
+thyme, a bay-leaf, one clove, one onion, half a carrot (in slices), two
+cloves of garlic, salt, pepper, and a little tarragon, if handy. Set on
+the fire, and boil gently till done. Dish the fish, and serve it warm
+with a caper or anchovy sauce in a boat, or with currant jelly.
+
+_The same--a la Bretonne._--Slit the fish on the back, as for broiling,
+and clean it. When wiped dry, lay it in a bake-pan in which there is a
+little melted butter, the inside of the fish under; place thus on a
+good fire, turn over when done on one side, and, when cooked, spread
+some _maitre d'hotel_ on it, and serve warm.
+
+_The same--aux fines herbes._--Clean and prepare as for baking, etc.,
+and also improve it as directed. Envelop the fish in buttered paper, and
+also the seasonings in which it has been improved, except the thyme and
+bay-leaves, broil it, and serve with _piquante_ sauce.
+
+_Cod-fish_, _cusk_, _haddock_, _hake_, _halibut_, _pollack_, and
+_torsk_, after being baked or boiled as directed, are served with the
+following sauces:
+
+_Anchovy_, _Bechamel_, _caper_, _cream_, _egg_, _Hollandaise_, _maitre
+d'hotel_, _tomato_, _vinaigrette_.
+
+
+EEL, CONGER, AND LAMPREY.
+
+_To clean._--When skinned, clean, head, and tail them. Then throw them
+in boiling water, in which you have put a little salt and a teaspoonful
+of vinegar; leave them in it about five minutes, take out, and drain.
+
+_Broiled._--Clean and cut two pounds of eel, or of either of the others,
+in pieces about three inches long. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter
+the size of an egg, and set it on the fire; when hot, lay the eels in,
+fry about three minutes, turning them over the while; then turn the
+whole into a crockery vessel, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and
+onions, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of sweet-oil, salt,
+and pepper; set on the fire and simmer two hours; take off, roll the
+pieces in fine bread-crumbs, place them on a gridiron, and on a good
+fire, and serve when done with _piquante_ sauce.
+
+From the nature of their flesh, eels require to be prepared thus; and,
+when properly done, make really a very good dish.
+
+_Roasted._--Prepare the eels as for broiling, and, instead of placing on
+the gridiron, envelop them in oiled paper and roast before a sharp fire.
+Serve with _piquante_, _ravigote_, or Tartar sauce.
+
+_Fried._--Prepare as for broiling as far as rolling in bread-crumbs,
+then dip in beaten-egg, roll in bread-crumbs again, and fry. (_See_
+Frying.) Serve with tomato-sauce, or just as it is.
+
+_In Maitre d'hotel._--Clean as directed, but boil twenty minutes instead
+of five. Serve with a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce and steamed potatoes, or
+with muscle, oyster, shrimp, or Tartar sauce.
+
+_In Matelote._--(_See_ Fish in Matelote.)
+
+_Stuffed._--Clean as directed; stuff it with currant jelly, bake or
+roast, and serve with currant jelly.
+
+_Flounder_ (wrongly called _sole_; the flounder is as good as the
+sole--the soles that may be found here are imported from Europe or from
+Newfoundland), _dab-fish_, and _plaice_, after being baked or boiled,
+may be served with the following sauces:
+
+_Allemande_, _anchovy_, _anchovy-butter_, _Mayonnaise_, _tomato_, and
+_au gratin_.
+
+_Baked._--Clean three pounds of the above fish. Put in a crockery dish
+four ounces of butter, set it on a good fire, and when melted sprinkle
+in it a teaspoonful of flour, stirring the while; also, a pinch of
+grated nutmeg, salt, pepper, a saltspoonful of chopped parsley, two or
+three mushrooms, also chopped, then the fish; pour on it a glass of
+white wine, and a liquor-glass of French brandy; cover the dish, take it
+from the fire, and put it in a moderately heated oven, and serve when
+done just as it is, and in the crockery dish.
+
+_A la Normande_.--Bone and skin the fish as directed. For a fish
+weighing four pounds, spread two ounces of butter on the bottom of a
+baking-pan; spread one onion, chopped fine, over the butter, and as much
+carrot, cut in small dice. Place the fish over the whole, the pieces as
+they are, or cut according to the size of the pan, salt and pepper, and
+bake. Take from the oven when done and dish the fish, leaving the juice
+in the pan; cut the stems of about a dozen mushrooms; place the heads on
+the middle of the fish, and the stems around it.
+
+Mix cold a tablespoonful of flour and the same of butter in a saucepan,
+turn into it a pint of broth, set on the fire and stir continually; when
+thoroughly mixed, turn into it also, and through a strainer, the juice
+from the pan in which the fish has baked; stir again two or three
+minutes; turn gently over the fish, put in the oven for about ten
+minutes, and serve hot. _Croutons_ may be placed around the dish as a
+decoration.
+
+_Another Normande._--Bone and skin the fish as directed; butter well the
+dish on which the fish is to be served, spread some chopped onion all
+over, then place the fish over it; sprinkle salt, pepper, and white wine
+or vinegar (a tablespoonful to a pound of fish), all over the fish, and
+bake it. It takes about fifteen minutes for a fish weighing two or three
+pounds. Wine is better than vinegar.
+
+While the fish is baking, set a saucepan on the fire with an ounce of
+butter in it, and when melted, add half a tablespoonful of flour; stir,
+and when turning yellow, add also half a pint of broth or water, salt,
+then the juice from the fish when baked, stir, give one boil, and turn
+over the fish.
+
+Blanch a dozen or so of oysters, place them all over the fish also.
+
+Have ready two or three potatoes, cut with a round vegetable spoon;
+boil till done; place them around the fish as a border for it; dust then
+the whole with bread-crumbs, put in a warm oven for about fifteen
+minutes, take off, place half a dozen _croutons_ all around the dish
+also, and serve.
+
+The _croutons_ are generally cut of a heart-shape. It will be easily
+done if the directions are followed properly and carefully.
+
+Commence by cutting the bread, then cut the potatoes, and set them on
+the fire with cold water and salt; while they are cooking, prepare the
+fish and set it in the oven; while this is baking, make the sauce, fry
+the _croutons_, and blanch the oysters. If the fish is baked before the
+rest are ready, take it off and keep warm till wanted. It makes a
+sightly and excellent dish.
+
+_The same fried._--Small flounders are fried like other small fish, and
+served either with or without a tomato-sauce or _a la Orly_.
+
+_The same, boned and fried._--Bone and skin small flounders as directed;
+mix together a tablespoonful of oil, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+the juice of half a lemon, and salt; dip the pieces of fish in the
+mixture, dust them slightly with flour, and fry. Serve hot.
+
+_Pike, Pickerel, and Trout or Troutlet._--Those three fish, besides
+being prepared as directed for bass, etc., and in all its different
+ways, they are boiled as directed and served warm, with a _genoise_
+sauce.
+
+A more delicious dish of fish can hardly be prepared.
+
+_Ray, Skate, and Angel or Monk fish._--Ray, though excellent, is very
+little known; there is only one place at which it can be
+bought--Washington Market, New York.
+
+It is unquestionably an excellent dish, prepared _au beurre noir_. When
+clean, boil the fish as directed, and dish it, sprinkling salt and
+pepper on it.
+
+While it is boiling, put about two ounces of butter to a pound of fish
+in a frying-pan, set it on a sharp fire, stir now and then, and when
+brown, throw into it about six sprigs of parsley, which you take off
+immediately with a skimmer. As soon as the parsley is taken off, pour
+the butter over the fish, quickly put two tablespoonfuls of vinegar in
+the frying-pan and over the fire, give one boil, and pour also over the
+fish. Frying the parsley and boiling the vinegar cannot be done too
+fast, as the fish must be served very warm. The warmer it is served, the
+better it is.
+
+_Salmon_, _sturgeon_, and _white-fish_, after being baked or boiled, may
+be served with a caper, and also with a _Mayonnaise_ sauce. They may
+also be served in _court bouillon_, like bass. They are broiled whole,
+or in slices, and served with a _maitre d'hotel_ or a caper sauce.
+
+_The same in Fricandeau._--Cut the fish in slices about half an inch
+thick, and place them in a saucepan with slices of fat salt pork,
+carrots and onions under them; set on a good fire; ten minutes after,
+add a little broth, just enough to cover the bottom of the pan; after
+about five minutes, turn the slices over; finish the cooking and serve
+with the gravy strained over the fish, or with a tomato-sauce.
+
+_The same in Papillotes._--Fry slices of salmon with a little butter,
+and until of a golden color; take them from the fire. While they are
+frying, mix well together parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, melted
+butter, grated nutmeg, and a little lemon-juice; spread some of the
+mixture on both sides of the slices of fish, envelop them in buttered or
+oiled paper; broil, and serve them hot.
+
+Some mushrooms or truffles, or both, and chopped, may be added to the
+mixture.
+
+_The same a la Genevoise._--Put in a saucepan a thick slice of
+salmon--from five to six pounds; just cover it with broth and claret
+wine--half of each; season with a bunch of seasonings composed of six or
+eight sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, two cloves, and
+two cloves of garlic, salt, a few slices of carrot, and a small green
+onion, or a shallot, if handy. Boil gently till nearly done, when add
+about a dozen mushrooms, and keep boiling till done; dish the fish, and
+put it in a warm but not hot place; mix cold, in a saucepan, four ounces
+of butter with about two ounces of flour; turn over it, through a
+strainer, the liquor in which the fish has been cooked, and set on a
+sharp fire; after about three minutes, during which you have stirred
+with a wooden spoon, add the mushrooms; stir again for about two
+minutes, turn over the fish, and serve warm.
+
+_The same in Salad._--Boil, as directed for fish, some thin slices of
+salmon, drain, and serve cold, on a napkin and on a dish.
+
+Serve with it, and in a boat, the following: half a teaspoonful of salt,
+a pinch of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, four of sweet oil, a
+pickled cucumber chopped fine, two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine also,
+two or three anchovies, and a tablespoonful of capers; the anchovies may
+be chopped fine or pounded. Beat the whole well and serve.
+
+_The same in Scallops._--Cut it in round slices, about one-eighth of an
+inch in thickness; fry them with butter, and serve.
+
+The pieces should be tastefully arranged on a dish, imitating a flight
+of stairs.
+
+_Broiled._--Cut it in rather thin slices, butter both sides with a
+brush; broil, and serve with a _maitre d'hotel_.
+
+_Shad_ and _sheep's-head_, after being baked or boiled, are served with
+an anchovy, caper, or tomato sauce. They are also served cold, _a la
+vinaigrette_.
+
+_Broiled._--When cleaned and prepared, salt, pepper, and butter it;
+broil and serve it with a _maitre d'hotel_.
+
+It may be _stuffed_ as directed for fish.
+
+_In Provencale._--Clean, prepare, and cut the fish in pieces about two
+inches long; put about three pounds of it in a saucepan, with a pint of
+claret; six stalks of parsley, a small onion, a clove of garlic, and six
+mushrooms, all chopped fine; boil till done, when add four ounces of
+butter, and two of flour, well kneaded together; boil three minutes
+longer, and serve warm.
+
+_Another way, or a la Chambord._--Stuff the fish with sausage-meat,
+envelop it in a towel, boil, and serve it with a tomato-sauce.
+
+_The same with Sorrel._--Broil the fish, and serve it on a puree of
+sorrel or of spinach.
+
+It may also be prepared _au court bouillon_, _a la Bretonne_, and _aux
+fines herbes_, like bass, etc.
+
+_Sheep's-head_ may also be prepared like turbot.
+
+_Au Gratin._--The shad, after being cleaned, but not split on the back
+(as is too often the case, to the shame of the fishmongers who begin by
+spoiling the fish under the pretence of cleaning it), is placed in a
+bake-pan, having butter, chopped parsley, mushroom, salt, and pepper,
+both under and above the fish. For a fish weighing three pounds, add one
+gill of broth and half as much of white wine; dust the fish with
+bread-crumbs, and set in a pretty quick oven.
+
+Fifteen minutes afterward, examine it. When done, the fish is dished, a
+little broth is put in the pan, which is placed on a sharp fire; stir
+with a spoon or fork so as to detach the bread, etc., that may stick to
+the pan, then pour this over the fish, and serve warm.
+
+The gravy must be reduced to two or three tablespoonfuls only, for a
+fish weighing about two pounds.
+
+The fish must be dished carefully in order not to break it.
+
+_Sterlet._--This is a fish of the sturgeon family, very plentiful in the
+Caspian Sea and in many Russian rivers, principally in the Neva and in
+Lake Ladoga.
+
+_Tunny_ and _bonito_, after being boiled, are served cold in
+_vinaigrette_.
+
+_Turbot and Whiff._--Turbot is among fishes what pheasant is among
+birds. Rub it with lemon before cooking it.
+
+After being boiled or baked, as directed, it is served with the
+following sauces: _Bechamel_, _cream_, _caper_, _Hollandaise_,
+_Mayonnaise_, _tomato_, and in _vinaigrette_.
+
+It is also served _au court-bouillon_ and _aux fines herbes_ like bass.
+
+_Au Gratin._--It is prepared and served like shad au gratin.
+
+It is also broiled and served with a _maitre d'hotel_.
+
+_Bordelaise._--Bone and skin the fish as directed; dip each piece in
+melted butter, then in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs and broil. While
+it is broiling on a rather slow fire, turn it over several times and
+keep basting with melted butter; the more butter it absorbs the better
+the fish.
+
+When broiled, serve the slices on a dish and place some boiled craw-fish
+all around and in the middle. A dish of steamed potatoes is served with
+it.
+
+The following sauce is also served at the same time: Chop fine and fry
+till half done, with a little butter, two small green onions or four
+shallots. Put half a pint of good meat-gravy in a small saucepan; set on
+the fire, and as soon as it commences to boil, pour into it, little by
+little, stirring the while with a wooden spoon, about a gill of Bordeaux
+wine, then the onions or shallots, and also a piece of beef marrow
+chopped fine; give one boil, and serve in a saucer.
+
+_In Salad._--Proceed as for salmon in salad.
+
+When _boiled_, serve the turbot with anchovy-butter, lobster-butter,
+lobster-sauce, or muscle-sauce.
+
+_Cold._--Any cold piece of turbot is served with a _Mayonnaise_ sauce,
+or in _vinaigrette_.
+
+_Cold Fish._--If the fish is with sauce, that is, if the sauce is in the
+same dish with the fish, warm it in the _bain-marie_, and serve warm.
+Any other piece of cold fish, baked, boiled, broiled, or roasted, is
+served with a _Mayonnaise_ sauce, or with a _vinaigrette_.
+
+Any kind of cold fish may be prepared in salad. Slice the fish or cut it
+in pieces and put it in the salad-dish with hard-boiled egg sliced,
+onion and parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil. Mix the
+whole gently and well, and serve.
+
+_Anchovy._--It is imported preserved. It is used as a _hors-d'oeuvre_,
+to decorate or season.
+
+The essence of anchovy is used for sauce.
+
+The smallest are considered the best.
+
+To serve as a _hors d'oeuvre_, wash, wipe dry, and remove the backbone,
+serve with tarragon or parsley, chopped fine, vinegar, and oil.
+
+They may also be served with hard-boiled eggs, chopped or quartered.
+
+_Sprats._--There are none in or near American waters; they are imported
+under their French name, sardines. Fresh sprats are very good boiled
+without any grease, and without being cleaned and prepared like other
+fish; but when on the plate, skin them, which is easily done, as then
+the flesh is so easily detached from the bones that the inside need not
+be touched at all; they are eaten with salt and pepper only.
+
+Sardines are served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, with oil and lemon-juice, and
+properly scaled. They are arranged on the dish according to fancy,
+together with lemon in slices.
+
+_Salt Cod--to prepare._--Soak it in cold water for two days, changing
+the water two or three times; then scale it well and clean. Lay it in a
+fish-kettle, cover with cold water, set on a rather slow fire, skim off
+the scum, let it boil about one minute, take the kettle from the fire,
+cover it well, and leave thus ten minutes; then take off the cod, and
+drain it.
+
+_In Bechamel._--Prepare it as above, and serve with a bechamel sauce,
+and as warm as possible.
+
+_With a Cream-Sauce._--Prepare as above, and serve either warm or cold
+with a cream-sauce.
+
+_In Brown Butter._--When prepared as above, place it on a dish, and keep
+it in a warm place. Put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and on a
+good fire; when turning brown, add three sprigs of parsley, fry about
+two minutes, pour the whole on the fish, and serve. You may also pour on
+it a hot caper-sauce, and serve.
+
+_With Croutons._--Prepare and cook as directed, three pounds of cod;
+take the bones out, break in small pieces, and mash with the hand as
+much as possible; put it then in a stewpan, beat three yolks of eggs
+with two tablespoonfuls of cream, and mix with the cod; set on a slow
+fire, and immediately pour in, little by little, stirring the while,
+about one gill of sweet oil; simmer ten or twelve minutes, and serve
+with _croutons_ around.
+
+_In Maitre d'Hotel._--Lay three pounds of cod on a dish, after being
+cooked as directed; keep it warm, spread a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce on it,
+and serve.
+
+_With Potatoes._--Prepare about three pounds of cod as directed above.
+Lay the fish on a dish; have a _piquante_ sauce ready, turn it over it,
+and serve with steamed potatoes all around the dish. The potatoes may
+also be served separately.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Prepare as directed, and when cold, serve with a
+vinaigrette.
+
+_With Cheese._--Prepare the cod as directed, then dip it in lukewarm
+butter, roll it in grated cheese, lay it in a baking-pan, dust slightly
+with bread-crumbs; bake, and serve warm. Two or three minutes in a quick
+oven will be sufficient.
+
+_Au Gratin._--When soaked only and wiped dry, but not boiled, prepare it
+as directed for fish au gratin.
+
+_With Caper-Sauce._--Prepare it as directed, and serve warm with
+caper-sauce.
+
+_Salt Salmon._--Soak it in cold water for some time, the length of time
+to be according to the saltness of the fish; scale and clean it well,
+lay it in a fish-kettle, cover it with cold water, and set it on a
+moderate fire. Boil gently about two minutes, skim off the scum, take
+from the kettle and drain it. Put butter in a frying-pan and set it on
+the fire; when it turns rather brown, put a few sprigs of parsley in it,
+and immediately pour it over the fish in the dish; add a few drops of
+lemon-juice all over, and serve warm.
+
+It may also be served with a caper or _maitre d'hotel_ sauce; or, when
+cold, serve _a la vinaigrette_.
+
+Salt salmon is also served like salt cod-fish.
+
+It may also be served on a _puree_ of celery or of onion.
+
+_Smoked Salmon._--Cut it in thin slices; have very hot butter or oil in
+a frying-pan, and lay the slices in only long enough to warm them; then
+take out, drain them, and serve with a few drops of lemon-juice or
+vinegar sprinkled on them.
+
+_Tunny._--This is not a good fish fresh; it is generally preserved, and
+served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_. It comes from Holland, Italy, and the south
+of France.
+
+Fresh, it is prepared like sturgeon. That prepared in Holland is the
+best. The Dutch cure fish better than any other nation.
+
+When you serve tunny, take it out of the bottle or jar and serve it on a
+small plate, or on a dessert-plate. A very small piece is served,
+generally like every other _hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+_Salt Herring._--Soak in cold or tepid water; if soaked in tepid water,
+it does not require as long; the time must be according to the quality
+or saltness of the fish. Wipe dry, broil, and serve like salt mackerel.
+
+_Another way._--Salt herring may also be soaked in half water and half
+milk, or in milk only; drain and wipe dry. Bone and skin, cut off the
+head, tail, and fins, and serve with oil, vinegar, and pickled
+cucumbers.
+
+They are also served with slices of sour apples, or slices of onions,
+after being soaked and wiped dry.
+
+They may also be broiled slightly and served with oil only, after being
+soaked, or served with sour grape-juice.
+
+_Salt Pike._--It is prepared and served the same as salt herring; so is
+pickled trout.
+
+_Red Herring._--Wipe or skin them, they are not as good when washed; cut
+off the head and tail, split the back open, lay them on a warm and
+well-greased gridiron, set on a slow fire; spread some butter or oil on
+them, turn over, do the same on the other side; broil very little, and
+serve with a _vinaigrette_ and mustard to taste.
+
+_Another way._--Clean and split them as above, soak them in lukewarm
+water for two hours; take out, drain, and wipe dry. Mix two or three
+yolks of eggs with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and a
+little melted butter; put some of the mixture around every herring, then
+roll them in fine bread-crumbs, place them on a gridiron on a slow fire:
+and when lightly broiled, serve as the preceding one.
+
+Red herring may also be broiled with bread-crumbs like salt herring.
+
+It is also served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, cut in slices.
+
+_Salt Mackerel broiled._--If the fish be too salt, soak it for a while
+in lukewarm water, take off and wipe dry. Have a little melted fat or
+lard, dip a brush in it and grease slightly both sides of the fish;
+place on or inside of the gridiron, the bars of which must also be
+greased; set on, or before, or under a pretty sharp fire; broil both
+sides; dish the fish, the skin under; spread butter on it; also parsley
+chopped fine, and serve.
+
+Lemon-juice may be added if liked, or a few drops of vinegar.
+
+When broiled and dished, spread a _maitre d'hotel_ on it, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--When soaked and wiped dry, dip in melted butter, again
+in beaten eggs, and roll in bread-crumbs. Broil and serve with parsley
+and lemon-juice, or with a _maitre d'hotel_.
+
+
+  FROGS.
+
+The hind-legs of frogs only are used as food; formerly they were eaten
+by the French only, but now, frog-eating has become general, and the
+Americans are not behind any others in relishing that kind of food.
+
+_Fried._--Skin well, and throw into boiling water with a little salt,
+for five minutes, the hind-legs only; take out and throw them in cold
+water to cool, and drain. Have hot fat in a pan on the fire (_see_
+Directions for Frying); lay the frogs in, and serve when done with fried
+parsley around.
+
+_Stewed._--Skin, boil five minutes, throw in cold water, and drain as
+above. Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter (for two dozen frogs); set
+it on the fire, and when melted, lay the legs in, fry two minutes,
+tossing now and then; then sprinkle on them a teaspoonful of flour, stir
+with a wooden spoon, add two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, one of garlic, salt, white pepper, and half a pint
+of white wine; boil gently till done, dish the legs, reduce the sauce on
+the fire, strain it, mix in it two yolks of eggs, pour on the legs, and
+serve them.
+
+
+  LOBSTER.
+
+Never buy a dead lobster.
+
+Large lobsters are not as good as small ones. From about one to two
+pounds and a half in weight are the best. The heavier the better.
+
+Lobsters are better at some seasons of the year than at others. They are
+inferior when full of eggs.
+
+It is from mere prejudice that the liver (also called _tomalley_) is
+eschewed. This prejudice may come from its turning green on boiling the
+lobster.
+
+Use every thing but the stomach and the black of bluish vein running
+along its back and tail.
+
+Boil your lobsters yourself; because, if you buy them already boiled,
+you do not know if they were alive when put in the kettle.
+
+A lobster boiled after being dead is watery, soft, and not full; besides
+being very unhealthy, if not dangerous.
+
+A lobster suffers less by being put in cold than in boiling water, and
+the flesh is firmer when done. In putting it in boiling water it is
+killed by the heat; in cold water it is dead as soon as the water gets
+warm.
+
+_To boil._.--Lay it in a fish-kettle; just cover it with cold water,
+cover the kettle, and set it on a sharp fire.
+
+It takes from fifteen to twenty-five minutes' boiling, according to the
+size of the lobster.
+
+When boiled, take it from the kettle, break it in two, that is, separate
+the body from the tail, and place it in a colander to let the water
+drain.
+
+_In the shell._--When the lobster is boiled, divide it in two, taking
+care not to break the body and large claws. The tail is then split in
+two, lengthwise, the flesh taken off, cut in small dice, and mixed with
+the inside of the lobster.
+
+The vein found immediately under the shell, all along the flesh of the
+lobster, is removed as soon as it is split. The stomach, found near the
+head, is removed also and thrown away; all the rest is good, including
+the liver.
+
+When the flesh and inside are properly mixed, season with salt, pepper,
+vinegar, oil, mustard, and chopped parsley.
+
+Place the body of the lobster on the middle of a dish, the head up, the
+two large claws stretched out, and the two feelers stretched out also
+and fastened between the claws. A sprig of parsley is put in each claw,
+at the end of it, in the small claws as well as in the two large ones.
+Then the two empty halves of the tail-piece are put around the body of
+the lobster, the prepared flesh placed around them; hard-boiled eggs cut
+in eight pieces each are placed around the dish, tastefully arranged;
+some slices of red, pickled beets and cut with paste-cutters, are placed
+between each piece of egg, and serve.
+
+It makes a simple, good, and very sightly dish.
+
+Half a dozen boiled craw-fish may be placed around the dish also; it
+will add to the decoration.
+
+Two middling-sized lobsters prepared thus will fill a very large dish.
+They should be placed back to back, with only a few craw-fish between,
+and the rest arranged as the above.
+
+_In Salad._--Boil the lobster as directed; break and drain it as
+directed also. Slice the flesh of the tail, place it tastefully on a
+dish; also the flesh from the two large claws, which may be sliced or
+served whole. Lettuce, or hard-boiled eggs, or both, may be arranged on
+the dish also, and served with the following sauce:
+
+Put in a boat or saucer all the inside save the stomach, with salt,
+pepper, vinegar, oil, mustard, and chopped parsley, to taste; beat and
+mix the whole well together, and serve. In case there are eggs, these
+are also to be mixed with the rest.
+
+_Another._--Boil and drain as directed; cut all the flesh in dice, and
+put it in a bowl with the inside, some lettuce cut rather fine, salt,
+pepper, vinegar, mustard, and very little oil; mix well, and then put
+the mixture on a dish, placing it like a mound on the middle of the
+dish; spread a _Mayonnaise_ sauce over it; decorate with the centre
+leaves of the lettuce, some hard-boiled eggs cut in slices or in fancy
+shapes, capers, boiled or pickled red beets, cut also in fancy shapes,
+slices of lemon, and serve.
+
+Anchovies, olives, pickled cucumbers, or any other pickled fruit or
+vegetable may also be added.
+
+A rose, or two or three pinks, may be placed right on the top, as a
+decoration. Just before commencing to serve, the rose may be put on a
+dessert plate and offered to a lady.
+
+_In Coquilles, or Scalloped._--It is boiled and then finished like
+oysters scalloped.
+
+It may be served thus on scallop-shells, on silver shells, or on its own
+shell; that is, on the shell of the tail, split in two lengthwise, and
+trimmed according to fancy.
+
+_Croquettes._--Lobster croquettes are made exactly like _fish-balls_,
+and then fried according to directions for frying.
+
+They are served warm. It is an excellent dish for _breakfast_.
+
+_Fried._--To be fried, the lobster must be bled; separate the body from
+the tail, then cut the tail in pieces, making as many pieces as there
+are joints. Put these pieces in a frying-pan with two or three ounces of
+butter, and one onion, chopped fine; set on a sharp fire, stir now and
+then tin the whole is fried, then add a bunch of seasoning composed of
+three sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove; salt,
+pepper, and three gills of Madeira wine; boil gently till reduced about
+half; dish the pieces of lobster according to fancy; add two or three
+tablespoonfuls of gravy to the sauce, stir it, give one boil, and turn
+it over the lobster through a strainer; serve warm.
+
+_Another way._--Proceed as above in every particular, except that you
+use Sauterne or Catawba wine instead of Madeira, and, besides the
+seasonings, add half a dozen mushrooms, or two truffles, or both.
+
+Dish the mushrooms and truffles with the lobster, then finish and serve
+as the above.
+
+_Craw-fish._--These are found in most of the lakes, brooks, and rivers.
+
+In some places they are called _river-crabs_, or freshwater crabs.
+
+They resemble the lobster, and are often taken for young lobsters.
+
+Besides being a beautiful ornament and much used to decorate dishes,
+they are excellent to eat and very light.
+
+They are dressed and served like lobsters and crabs.
+
+Fishermen are sure to find a ready market for them, though they are, as
+yet, very little known.
+
+_Crabs._--Crabs are boiled like lobsters, and may be served like
+lobster, _in salad_. They are often eaten, only boiled, without any
+seasonings.
+
+Like lobsters also, to be good, crabs must be put in the water alive.
+
+When well washed and clean, they may be prepared in the following way:
+Put them in a saucepan with slices of onions, same of carrots, parsley,
+chives if handy, thyme, bay-leaves, cloves, salt, and pepper-corns; half
+cover them with white wine, add butter, set on a good fire, and boil
+till done. Serve with parsley only.
+
+The sauce may be used a second time by adding a little wine.
+
+The _soft-shell crab_ is blanched five minutes, and _fried_ like fish.
+
+It may also be _saute_ with a little butter, and served with a _maitre
+d'hotel_.
+
+_Broil_ it also, and serve it with a _maitre d'hotel_.
+
+_Muscles._--These are unwholesome between April and September. They
+must be heavy, fresh, and of a middling size. The very large ones are
+really inferior.
+
+Soak them in water and wash well several times, then drain.
+
+_In Poulette._--Put them in a saucepan with a little parsley chopped
+fine, and set them on a pretty good fire; as soon as they are opened,
+remove the shell to which they are not attached, and keep them in a warm
+place.
+
+For two quarts of muscles, put two ounces of butter in the saucepan in
+which they have been cooked and in which you have left their liquor; set
+on the fire, stir, and as soon as the butter is melted, add and stir
+into it a tablespoonful of flour; when turning a little yellow, add also
+half a dozen pepper-corns, then the muscles; boil gently about ten
+minutes, stirring occasionally; take from the fire, mix one or two yolks
+of eggs with it, a little lemon-juice, parsley chopped fine, and serve
+warm.
+
+_Another way._--When clean, put them in a saucepan with a few slices of
+carrot, same of onion, two or three stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, six pepper-corns, and salt. Set on the fire, and
+take the muscles from the pan as soon as they open, then remove one
+shell; put them back in the pan, with as much white wine as there is
+liquor from the muscles; boil gently about ten minutes, add the yolk of
+an egg, a little lemon-juice, and dish the muscles; drain the sauce over
+them, add a little chopped parsley, and serve warm.
+
+_Fried._--Fry, and serve the muscles like fried oysters. They may also
+be served like scalloped oysters.
+
+_Prawns and Shrimps._--Wash, boil in water and salt, and serve. They may
+be used, like craw-fish, to decorate fish after being boiled.
+
+_Another way._--Wash well, and put two quarts of them in a saucepan
+with four onions in slices, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, salt, pepper, half a pint of white wine, and two
+ounces of butter, just cover with water and set on a good fire; when
+properly cooked, drain, and serve warm with green parsley all around.
+The liquor may be used a second time.
+
+
+  OYSTERS.
+
+The American oyster is unquestionably the best that can be found. It
+varies in taste according to how it is treated, either after being
+dredged or while embedded; and also according to the nature of the soil
+and water in which they have lived. It is very wrong to wash oysters. We
+mean by washing oysters, the abominable habit of throwing oysters in
+cold water, as soon as opened, and then sold by the measure. It is more
+than a pity to thus spoil such an excellent and delicate article of
+food.
+
+Oysters, like lobsters, are not good when dead. To ascertain if they are
+alive, as soon as opened and when one of the shells is removed, touch
+gently the edge of the oyster, and, if alive, it will contract.
+
+_Raw._--When well washed, open them, detaching the upper shell, then
+detach them from the under shell, but leave them on it; place on a dish,
+and leave the upper shell on every oyster, and serve thus.
+
+To eat them, you remove the upper shell, sprinkle salt, pepper, and
+lemon-juice on, and eat.
+
+When raw oysters are served on a table, at which there are gentlemen
+only, some shallots, chopped fine and gently bruised in a coarse towel,
+are served with them, on a separate dish. The taste of the shallot
+agrees very well with that of the oyster.
+
+A Tartar sauce may be served instead of shallots.
+
+_To blanch._--Set the oysters and a little water on the fire in a
+saucepan, take them off at the first boil, skim off the scum from the
+top, strain them, and drop them in cold water.
+
+The skimming, straining, and dropping in cold water must be done
+quickly--the quicker the better. If allowed to stay in the warm water,
+or out of water, they get tough.
+
+In dropping them in cold water, see that they are free from pieces of
+shell; take them with a fork if necessary.
+
+As soon as in cold water they are ready for use, but they must always be
+drained again before using them.
+
+When the water used to blanch is employed in preparing them, it is
+explained in the different receipts.
+
+White wine may be used, instead of water, to blanch them, according to
+taste.
+
+_Fried._--Open the oysters, and put them in a colander for about half an
+hour. They must be as well drained as possible. Then dip them in egg and
+roll in bread-crumbs in the following way: Beat one or two, or three,
+eggs (according to the quantity of oysters to be fried), as for an
+omelet, turn the oysters into the eggs and stir gently; then take one
+after another, roll in bread-crumbs; place each one on your left hand,
+in taking them from the crumbs, and with the other hand press gently on
+it. Put them away in a cool place for about half an hour, and then dip
+again in egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and press in the hand as before. It
+is not indispensable to dip in egg and roll in crumbs a second time; but
+the oysters are better, and you are well repaid for the little extra
+work it requires. While you are preparing them, set some fat on the fire
+in a pan, and when hot enough (_see_ Frying) drop the oysters in, stir
+gently, take off with a skimmer when fried, turn into a colander, add
+salt, and serve hot.
+
+_Roasted._--Place the oysters on a hot stove or range, or on coals, and
+as soon as they open take off, remove one shell; turn a little melted
+butter on each, and serve.
+
+There are several other ways.
+
+When blanched, they are served on toast, a little gravy is added, the
+toast placed on a dessert-plate, and served thus.
+
+_Broiled_ and roasted as above is the same thing.
+
+Oysters scalloped on their own shell, and placed on the range instead of
+in the oven, are also called broiled.
+
+_Scalloped._--Place the oysters when thoroughly washed on a hot stove,
+and as soon as they open remove one shell, the flatter one of the two,
+and take them from the fire. Sprinkle salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and
+bread-crumbs on them; place on each a piece of butter the size of a
+hazel-nut; put in the oven about ten minutes, and when done add a few
+drops of meat-gravy, to each, and serve hot.
+
+_Another._--Put a quart of oysters and their liquor in a saucepan, set
+it on the fire, take off at the first boil, and drain. Set a saucepan on
+the fire with two ounces of butter in it; as soon as melted, add a
+teaspoonful of flour, stir, and, when turning rather brown, add the
+juice of the oysters, about a gill of gravy, salt, and pepper; boil
+gently for about ten minutes, stirring now and then. While it is
+boiling, place the oysters on scallop-shells, or on silver shells made
+for that purpose, two or three oysters on each, turn some of the above
+sauce on each, after it has boiled; dust with bread-crumbs, put a little
+piece of butter on each shell, and bake for about twelve minutes in a
+warm oven.
+
+A dozen silver shells served thus make a sightly and excellent dish.
+
+Some truffles, chopped fine, may be added to the sauce, two minutes
+before taking it from the fire.
+
+_Stewed._--Procure two quarts of good and fresh oysters. Set them on a
+sharp fire, with their liquor and a little water, and blanch as
+directed. Put four ounces of butter in a saucepan, set on the fire, and
+when melted stir into it a small tablespoonful of flour; as soon as
+mixed, add also a teaspoonful of parsley, chopped fine, and about half a
+pint of broth; boil gently about ten minutes, then add the oysters, salt
+and pepper, boil again about one minute, dish the whole, sprinkle
+lemon-juice on, and serve.
+
+An oyster soup is often called a stew.
+
+_In Poulette._--In adding chopped mushrooms to the stewed oysters, at
+the same time that the oysters are put in the pan, you make them in
+_poulette_.
+
+_A la Washington._--Fried oysters are called _a la Washington_, when
+two, three, or four very large oysters are put together (they adhere
+very easily), dipped in egg, rolled in bread-crumbs, and fried, as
+directed above. It is necessary to have a deep pan, and much fat, to
+immerse them completely.
+
+_Pickled_ oysters are always served as a _hors d'oeuvre_. Place around
+the oysters some hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, and serve with oil and
+vinegar.
+
+Serve them in the same way, with slices of truffles instead of
+hard-boiled eggs.
+
+They may also be served with lemon-juice only.
+
+Or with shallots chopped fine, and then bruised in a coarse towel. This
+last one is considered of too strong a taste for ladies.
+
+They are also served with a Tartar sauce.
+
+_Scallops._--Blanch the scallops for three minutes, drain them. Put
+butter on the fire in a frying-pan, and when melted turn the scallops
+in; stir now and then, take from the fire when fried, add parsley
+chopped fine, salt, pepper, and serve warm.
+
+_On the Shell._--Chop fine a middling-sized onion, and fry it with one
+ounce of butter. While the onion is frying, chop fine also one quart of
+scallops and put them with the onion; stir for two or three minutes, or
+till about half fried, when turn the juice off, put back on the fire,
+and add one ounce of butter, one gill of white wine, stir for two or
+three minutes, and if too thick add the juice you have turned off; take
+from the fire, and mix a yolk of egg with it, add salt, pepper, nutmeg
+grated, and parsley chopped fine.
+
+Have the scallop shells properly cleaned, or silver shells, spread the
+mixture on the shells; dust with bread-crumbs, put a piece of butter
+about the size of a hazel-nut on each, and put in an oven, at about 320
+deg. Fahr., for from ten to fifteen minutes.
+
+This is a dish for _breakfast_.
+
+Scallop, scollop, or escalop, are one and the same fish.
+
+
+  CLAMS.
+
+Wash clean with a scrubbing-brush and put them in a kettle; set on a
+good fire, and leave till they are wide open; then take from the kettle,
+cut each in two or three pieces, put them in a stewpan with all the
+water they have disgorged in the kettle, and about four ounces of butter
+for fifty clams; boil slowly about an hour, take from the fire, and mix
+with the whole two beaten eggs, and serve warm.
+
+Clams are also eaten raw with vinegar, salt, and pepper.
+
+_Chowder._--This popular dish is made in a hundred different ways, but
+the result is about the same.
+
+It is generally admitted that boatmen prepare it better than others, and
+the receipts we give below came from the most experienced chowder-men of
+the Harlem River.
+
+Potatoes and crackers are used in different proportions, the more used,
+the thicker the chowder will be.
+
+Put in a _pot_ (technical name) some small slices of fat salt pork,
+enough to line the bottom of it; on that, a layer of potatoes, cut in
+small pieces; on the potatoes, a layer of chopped onions; on the onions,
+a layer of tomatoes, in slices, or canned tomatoes; on the latter a
+layer of clams, whole or chopped (they are generally chopped), then a
+layer of crackers.
+
+Then repeat the process, that is, another layer of potatoes on that of
+the clams; on this, one of onions, etc., till the pot is nearly full.
+Every layer is seasoned with salt and pepper. Other spices are sometimes
+added according to taste; such as thyme, cloves, bay-leaves, and
+tarragon.
+
+When the whole is in, cover with water, set on a slow fire, and when
+nearly done, stir gently, finish cooking, and serve.
+
+As we remarked above, the more potatoes that are used, the thicker it
+will be.
+
+When done, if found too thin, boil a little longer; if found too thick,
+add a little water, give one boil, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Proceed as above in every particular, except that you
+omit the clams and crackers, and when the rest is nearly cooked, then
+add the chopped clams and broken crackers, boil fast about twenty-five
+minutes longer, and serve.
+
+If found too thick or too thin, proceed exactly as for the one above.
+
+_Fish Chowder._--This is made exactly as clam chowder, using fish
+instead of clams.
+
+_Clam Bake._--This is how it is made by the Harlem River clam-baker, Tom
+Riley.
+
+Lay the clams on a rock, edge downward, and forming a circle, cover them
+with fine brush; cover the brush with dry sage; cover the sage with
+larger brush; set the whole on fire, and when a little more than half
+burnt (brush and sage), look at the clams by pulling some out, and if
+done enough, brush the fire, cinders, etc., off; mix some tomato or
+cauliflower sauce, or catsup, with the clams (minus their shells); add
+butter and spices to taste, and serve.
+
+Done on sand, the clams, in opening, naturally allow the sand to get in,
+and it is anything but pleasant for the teeth while eating them.
+
+
+
+
+  BEEF.
+
+
+  HOW TO SELECT.
+
+See if the meat is fine, of a clear red color, with yellowish-white fat.
+
+
+  COW BEEF.
+
+Cow beef must also be of a clear red color, but more pale than other
+beef; the fat is white.
+
+
+  BULL BEEF.
+
+Bull beef is never good; you recognize it when you see hard and yellow
+fat; the lean part is of a dirty-reddish color.
+
+The rump piece is generally prepared _a la mode_. For steaks, the
+tenderloin and the piece called the porter-house steak, are the best;
+rump steaks are seldom tender.
+
+The roasting or baking pieces are the tenderloin, the fillet, and some
+cuts of the ribs.
+
+For soup, every piece is good; to make rich broth, take pieces of the
+rump, sucket, round, etc., but every piece makes excellent broth, and
+therefore excellent soup. (_See_ Broth.)
+
+A good piece of rib, prepared like a fillet or tenderloin, makes an
+excellent dish, the bones and meat around them being used to make
+broth.
+
+
+  A LA MODE.
+
+Take from six to twelve pounds of rump and lard it. To lard it you take
+a steel needle made for that purpose, flat near the pointed end and much
+larger than an ordinary larding-needle. It must be flat near the point
+in order to cut the meat so as to make room for the larger part of the
+needle to pass, and also for the salt pork. This needle is only used for
+beef _a la mode_.
+
+Cut the salt pork in square strips to fit the needle, (_see_ Larding),
+and proceed.
+
+Examine the piece of beef, lard with the grain of the meat, so that when
+it is carved the salt pork shall be cut across.
+
+If the piece is too thick to run the strip of pork through, so that both
+ends stick out, lard one side first then the other. We mean by one side
+first, this: to be easily handled, the salt pork cannot be cut longer
+than about four inches; as half an inch of it must stick out of the
+meat, it leaves only three inches inside, and if the piece of meat be
+six inches or more thick, of course it would be impossible to have the
+strip of pork stick out on both sides; therefore, you lard one side
+first; that is, you run the needle through the meat, leaving the salt
+pork stick out on the side you commence, and when that side is larded,
+do the same for the other. You have then the salt pork sticking out on
+both sides of the meat and looking just as if the strips were running
+through the whole piece.
+
+Some like more salt pork than others in the beef; the strips may be run
+thickly or thinly.
+
+Thirty strips may be run into three pounds of meat as well as half a
+dozen; but about half a pound of salt pork to five pounds of beef is a
+pretty good proportion.
+
+Then take a saucepan of a proper size for the piece of meat; it must not
+be too large or too small, but large enough to hold the meat without
+being obliged to bend or fold it; a crockery pan is certainly the best
+for that purpose, and one that will go easily in the oven.
+
+Put in the saucepan, for six pounds of beef, half a calf's foot, or a
+veal-bone if more handy, two ounces of butter, half a handful of parsley
+(cives, if handy), two bay-leaves, a clove of garlic, a sprig of thyme,
+two onions, with a clove stuck in each, salt, pepper, half a carrot cut
+in slices, the rind of the salt pork you have used, and what you may
+have left of strips; the whole well spread on the bottom of the pan,
+then the piece of meat over, cover the pan, set on a rather sharp fire
+and after about ten minutes add half a gill of water; keep the pan
+covered to the end.
+
+After another ten or fifteen minutes, add about one pint of cold water,
+turn the meat over, and after about ten minutes more, place the pan in
+the oven, a rather slow oven (a little above 220 degrees Fahr.), for
+five or six hours. Dish the meat, skim off the fat on the top of the
+gravy, give one boil and turn it over the meat and carrots through a
+strainer.
+
+When the meat is dished; put some carrots _au jus_ all around; serve
+warm.
+
+_Cold._--Serve it whole or in slices, with meat jelly, or with a sharp
+sauce; such as _piquante, ravigote_, etc.
+
+
+  STEWED.
+
+Stewed beef is called also _daube_ or _braised_ beef, but it is the
+same.
+
+It may be larded as beef _a la mode_, or not; it may be put whole in the
+pan or in large dice, according to taste.
+
+The following is for five or six pounds of rump or even a piece of ribs:
+
+Put in a saucepan two ounces of salt pork cut in dice, four sprigs of
+parsley, two of thyme, two bay-leaves, a clove of garlic, a sprig of
+sweet basil, two cloves, three carrots cut in pieces, salt, and pepper;
+put the piece of beef on the whole, wet with a glass of broth, and one
+of white wine (a liquor-glass of French brandy may also be added);
+season with six or eight small onions; place in a moderately heated
+oven, put paste around the cover to keep it air-tight; simmer about six
+hours; dish the meat with the onions and carrots around it, strain the
+gravy on the whole, and serve.
+
+Almost any piece of beef may be cooked in the same way, and will be
+found good, wholesome, and economical.
+
+
+  ROASTED.
+
+_How to improve it._--Put the meat in a tureen, with four tablespoonfuls
+of sweet-oil, salt, pepper, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, four
+onions cut in slices, two bay-leaves, and the juice of half a lemon; put
+half of all the above under the meat, and half on it; cover, and leave
+thus two days in winter, and about eighteen hours in summer.
+
+It certainly improves the meat and makes it more tender. The tenderloin
+may be improved as well as any other piece.
+
+Then place the meat on the spit before and near a very sharp fire. Baste
+often with the seasonings, if you have improved the meat; or with a
+little melted butter, if you have not. Continue basting with what is in
+the dripping-pan.
+
+Beef must be placed as near the fire as possible, without burning it,
+however; and then, as soon as a coating or crust is formed all around,
+remove it by degrees. Remember that the quicker the crust is formed, the
+more juicy and tender the meat.
+
+Nothing at all is added to form that kind of crust. It is formed by the
+osmazome of the meat, attracted by the heat, and coming in contact with
+the air while revolving.
+
+Beef is more juicy when rather underdone; if good, when cut, it has a
+pinky color inside.
+
+Roast beef may be served with the drippings only, after being strained
+and the fat removed.
+
+It may also be served in the following ways:
+
+_With Potatoes._--Fried potatoes may be served all around the meat, or
+on a separate dish. Also, potato croquettes.
+
+_With Horse-radish._--Grate horse-radish, mix it with the drippings, and
+serve in a boat.
+
+_With a Garniture._--Mix a liver garniture with the gravy, add
+lemon-juice, place all around the meat, and serve.
+
+_With Truffles._--Place the garniture of truffles on and around the
+meat, turn the drippings on the whole, and serve.
+
+_With Tomatoes._--Surround the meat with stuffed tomatoes, strain the
+gravy on the whole, and serve.
+
+_On Purees._--Spread either of the following _purees_ on the dish, place
+the meat over it, strain the drippings on the whole; and serve:
+
+_Purees_ of _asparagus_, _beans_, _cauliflowers_, _celery_, _Lima
+beans_, _onions_, _green peas_, _potatoes_, and _mushrooms_.
+
+_With Cabbage._--Surround the meat with Brussels cabbages, prepared _au
+jus_; strain the drippings on the whole, and serve.
+
+_With Quenelles._--Place twelve quenelles of chicken around the meat,
+and serve with the drippings.
+
+
+  TO DECORATE.
+
+When served in any way as described above, one or two or more skewers
+may be run through craw-fish and a slice of truffle, and stuck in the
+meat, or through sweetbreads _au jus_, and slices of truffles. It makes
+a beautiful and good decoration.
+
+The skewers may also be run through chicken-combs, prepared as for
+_farce_; first through a comb, then through a slice of truffle, through
+a sweetbread, again through a slice of truffle, then through a
+craw-fish, and lastly a slice of truffle, or the reverse, according to
+fancy.
+
+_With Rice._--It is surrounded with rice croquettes, the drippings
+strained over the whole.
+
+We could put down some twenty or more other ways, but any one with an
+ordinary amount of natural capacity can do it, by varying the
+_garnitures_, _purees_, _decorations_, etc.
+
+Cold roast-beef is prepared like boiled beef.
+
+
+  BAKED.
+
+Place the meat in a bake-pan, with cold water about a quarter of an inch
+deep; spread salt, pepper, and a little butter on the meat, cover it
+with a piece of buttered paper; baste often over the paper, lest it
+should burn; keep the bottom of the pan covered with juice; if the water
+and juice are absorbed, add a little cold water and continue basting;
+turn over two or three times, but keep the paper on the top; if it is
+burnt, put on another piece. The paper keeps the top of the meat moist,
+and prevents it from burning or drying.
+
+When done, it is served like roasted beef.
+
+
+  FILLET.
+
+The tenderloin and even the sirloin are sometimes called, or rather
+known, under the name of fillet, when cooked. It comes from the French
+_filet_--tenderloin.
+
+Sirloin means surloin; like stock and several others, sirloin is purely
+English. The surloin is the upper part of the loin, as its prefix
+indicates; it is _surlonge_ in French.
+
+A fillet is generally larded with salt pork by means of a small brass
+larding-needle; the salt pork cut in strips to fit the needle (_see_
+Larding).
+
+If you use a tenderloin, trim off the fat. If it is a piece of ribs,
+prepared fillet-like, shape it like a fillet as near as possible; the
+rest is used as directed above.
+
+A piece of ribs is certainly cheaper, and can be had at any time, while
+the other is as difficult to procure as it is dear.
+
+_To lard it._--Have a towel in your left hand and place the meat over
+it, the most flat and smooth side up, holding it so that the upper part
+will present a somewhat convex surface, and commence larding at either
+end and finishing at the other, in this way:
+
+Run the needle through the upper part of the convex surface, commencing
+at about a quarter of an inch from the edge of one side, running through
+the meat a distance of about one inch and a half, about half an inch in
+depth at the middle, and the strip of salt pork sticking out at both
+ends; that is, where the needle was introduced into the meat, and where
+it came out of it. Repeat this till you have a row of strips across the
+meat, the strips being about one-third of an inch apart.
+
+Lard row after row in the same way, and till the whole flat side is
+covered; the ends of the strips of pork sticking out of each row being
+intermingled.
+
+_To cook it._--It may be roasted or baked exactly in the same way as
+directed above for roast and baked beef. It may also be improved in the
+same way.
+
+When cooked in either of the two above ways, it is served with its gravy
+only, or--
+  With fried potatoes.
+  With potato coquettes.
+  With truffles.
+  With tomatoes.
+  With quenelles.
+  With Madeira-sauce.
+  With green peas.
+
+The same as roast or baked beef above. It may also be decorated in the
+same way.
+
+A fillet is also cooked exactly like beef _a la mode_, with the
+exception that it does not require as long; for a large one, it requires
+only about three hours.
+
+When cooked thus, it is served with its gravy strained, and decorated
+with skewers, as above.
+
+_With Macaroni._--While the fillet is cooking, prepare a pound of
+macaroni au jus, and serve the fillet on the macaroni spread on a dish;
+the gravy of the fillet being mixed with the macaroni when both are
+done.
+
+_Fillet a la Brillat-Savarin._--Cook it in a pan as above, and serve it
+decorated with sweetbreads and slices of truffles, as described for
+roast-beef, and with a Champagne-sauce.
+
+_A la Chateaubriand._--This is prepared and served like the preceding
+one, with a _Madeira_ instead of a _Champagne_ sauce.
+
+_Saute._--When cooked in a pan as directed above, cook mushrooms about
+ten minutes in the gravy, and serve mushrooms and gravy all around the
+meat.
+
+A fillet _saute_ is always made with a tenderloin.
+
+As is seen by the above receipts, all the good pieces of beef may be
+prepared in the ways described, ribs as well as other pieces, and from
+the plainest to the most _recherche_ way, from the cheapest to the most
+costly manner.
+
+Several names are given to the different ways we have described, such as
+fillet _financiere_ (fillet served with a ragout of chicken-combs),
+fillet Richelieu (fillet with half a dozen skewers), etc.
+
+_En Bellevue._--This is the best way to serve it cold. It may be served
+whole, or part of it, that is, what is left from the preceding dinner.
+For a supper or lunch, it is the most handy dish, as it can be prepared
+in advance. Make some meat jelly or calf's-foot jelly, put a thickness
+of about three-quarters of an inch of it in a tin dish or mould, large
+enough to hold the fillet; then place on ice to cool, and when congealed
+and firm enough, place the fillet on it, the larded side downward; fill
+now with jelly till the fillet is covered, and have a thickness of about
+three-quarters of an inch above it.
+
+The fillet must not touch the sides of the mould, but be perfectly
+enveloped in jelly. If the thickness of jelly is even on both sides and
+all around, it is much more sightly. When the jelly is perfectly
+congealed and firm, place a dish over the mould, turn upside down, and
+remove it. Serve as it is.
+
+As a tenderloin is very expensive and rather difficult to get, buy a
+fine piece of ribs, cut the fleshy part of the shape of a tenderloin,
+and prepare it as directed above; it makes an excellent and sightly
+dish. The bony part with the rest of the flesh is used to make broth.
+
+
+  RIBS.
+
+_With Vinegar._--Put two tablespoonfuls of fat in a saucepan, and set it
+on the fire; when melted, put the beef in; say a piece of three pounds,
+from the round, rump, or rib-piece; brown it on every side; add one gill
+of vinegar, salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper, cover the pan, and keep
+on a rather sharp fire for fifteen minutes; then add one carrot and one
+onion, both sliced, a stalk of thyme, three cloves, two bay-leaves, and
+six pepper-corns, a pint of broth, and same of water; boil gently till
+done; dish the meat, strain the sauce over it, and serve.
+
+Ribs may also be broiled like steaks, and served either with a _maitre
+d'hotel_, mushrooms, potatoes, or water-cress. The low cuts of beef are
+generally used to make broth, or stewed.
+
+
+  STEAKS.
+
+The best piece of beef for a steak is the tenderloin.
+
+What is called a porter-house steak is the tenderloin, sirloin, and
+other surrounding parts cut in slices.
+
+A steak should never be less than three-quarters of an inch in
+thickness.
+
+It should always be broiled; it is inferior in taste and flavor when
+cooked in a pan (_saute_), or other utensil, but many persons cook it
+so, not having the necessary fire or utensil to broil; broiled or
+_saute_, it is served alike.
+
+The same rules are applied to steaks of venison, pork, etc.;
+turtle-steaks are also prepared like beef-steaks.
+
+A good steak does not need any pounding; the object of pounding a steak
+is to break its fibres. A pounded steak may appear or taste more tender
+to a person not knowing or never having tasted a good steak, but an
+experienced palate cannot be deceived.
+
+It is better to broil before than over the fire. (_See_ Broiling.)
+
+To cook a steak in an oven or drum, or any other badly-invented machine
+or contrivance, is not to broil it, but to spoil it.
+
+_To make tender._--When cut, trimmed, salted, and peppered, put them in
+a bowl, and sprinkle some sweet-oil or melted butter over them; turn
+them over in the bowl every two or three hours for from six to twelve
+hours.
+
+_To cut and prepare._--Cut the meat in round or oval slices, as even as
+possible, of any size, about one inch in thickness, and trim off the
+fibres and thin skin that may be around. Do not cut off the fat, but
+flatten a little each slice with a chopper.
+
+_To broil._--when the steaks are cut and prepared as directed, they are
+slightly greased on both sides with lard or butter (if they have not
+been in a bowl with oil or butter before cooking them), placed on a
+warmed gridiron, set before or on a sharp fire, turned over once or
+twice, and taken off when rather underdone. Salt and pepper them, dish,
+spread a _maitre d'hotel_ over them, and serve very warm.
+
+Cooks and epicures differ about the turning over of steaks; also about
+broiling them with or without salt; some say that they must not be
+turned over twice, others are of opinion that they must be turned over
+two or three, and even more times; some say that they must be salted and
+peppered before broiling, others say they must not; we have tried the
+two ways many times, and did not find any difference; if there is any
+difference at all, it is in the quality of the meat, or in the person's
+taste, or in the cook's care.
+
+When the steak is served as above, place some fried potatoes all around,
+and serve hot. Instead of fried potatoes, put some water-cress all
+around, add a few drops of vinegar, and serve. The water-cress is to be
+put on raw and cold.
+
+When the steak is dished, spread some anchovy-butter on it instead of a
+_maitre d'hotel_, and serve warm also. It may also be served with
+lobster-butter instead of a _maitre d'hotel_. Steaks are also served
+with horse-radish butter, and surrounded with fried or _souffle_
+potatoes.
+
+_With a Tomato-Sauce._--Broil and serve the steak as directed above, and
+serve it with a tomato-sauce instead of a _maitre d'hotel_.
+
+_With a Poivrade or Piquante Sauce._--Broil and serve with a _poivrade_
+or _piquante_ sauce, instead of a _maitre d'hotel_.
+
+_With Egg._--When the steaks are cut and prepared as directed, dip them
+in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, then broil, and serve them
+with either a _maitre d'hotel_ or tomato-sauce, or with potatoes, etc.
+
+_With Truffles._--Set a saucepan on the fire with one ounce of butter in
+it; as soon as melted add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir, and, when
+turning brown, add also about a gill of broth; stir again for five or
+six minutes, when mix three or four tablespoonfuls of good gravy with
+the rest; boil gently ten minutes, take from the fire; slice two or
+three truffles, mix them with the rest; add salt and pepper to taste;
+give one boil, turn over the steak which you have broiled as directed,
+and serve.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Proceed as for truffles in every particular, except
+that you use mushrooms.
+
+_Fancy Steak._--Cut the steak two or three inches thick, butter slightly
+both sides, lay it on a gridiron well greased and warmed; set it on a
+moderate fire and broil it well; to cook it through it must be turned
+over many times, on account of its thickness. Serve like another steak,
+with a _maitre d'hotel_, _poivrade_, potatoes, or water-cress, etc.
+
+
+  BOILED BEEF.
+
+This is understood to be beef that has been used to make broth--a
+rump-piece or a rib-piece, boned and tied with twine before cooking it.
+
+[Illustration: _a,_ skewer; _b,_ carrot; _c,_ turnip; _d,_ beef; _e,_
+carrots and turnips.]
+
+_With Carrots and Turnips._--Remove the twine, and place the piece of
+beef on the middle of a dish, with carrots and turnips, cut with a
+fruit-corer, prepared _au jus_ or glazed, and arranged all around it;
+also, some skewers run through pieces of carrot and turnip, and then
+stuck in the piece of beef. (See cut p. 174.) Serve warm.
+
+_With Brussels Cabbage, or Sprouts._--Serve the beef as above,
+surrounded with sprouts _au jus_, and also ornamented with skewers run
+through sprouts, with a piece of turnip between each.
+
+_In Bourgeoise._--Serve the piece of beef warm, decorated if handy, and
+surrounded with fried potatoes cut with a vegetable spoon or in fillets,
+and gravy spread over the whole.
+
+If not decorated, a few sprigs of parsley may be spread on the beef.
+
+_With Onions._--Serve the beef as above, and surround it with glazed
+onions.
+
+_With Celery._--When served as above, the meat is surrounded with a
+_puree_ of celery.
+
+_With Cauliflowers._--Serve warm, with a garniture of cauliflowers all
+around. It may be decorated with skewers.
+
+_With Chestnuts._--Glaze chestnuts as for dessert; run the skewers
+through a chestnut first, then through a fried potato, and then through
+a slice of carrot, and stick one at each end of the piece of beef; put
+chestnuts all around, spread some gravy over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Proceed as for _croquettes_ of chicken.
+
+_Hollandaise._--Cut the meat in fillets and put it in a saucepan, with
+about two ounces of fat or butter to a pound of meat; set on the fire
+and stir for ten minutes. Then add a tablespoonful of flour and stir
+about one minute, with warm water enough to half cover the meat, and
+boil about five minutes, stirring now and then.
+
+Mix together in a bowl two yolks of eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and
+two or three tablespoonfuls of the sauce from the saucepan in which the
+beef is; turn the mixture into the saucepan, stir and mix, add salt and
+pepper to taste, give one boil, and serve warm.
+
+_Broiled._--Cut the meat in slices about one inch in thickness, broil,
+and serve like steaks.
+
+_Au Gratin._--Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
+when melted sprinkle into it two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, two or
+three mushrooms chopped, a teaspoonful of chopped onions, same of
+parsley, a pinch of allspice, salt, and pepper; stir for about two
+minutes, add a little broth to make the whole rather liquid. Cut one
+pound of boiled beef in slices, place them in a tin or silver dish, turn
+the mixture over them, dust with bread-crumbs; put half a dozen pieces
+of butter here and there on the top, and bake for about fifteen minutes.
+
+Take from the oven when done, add a few drops of lemon juice all over,
+and serve warm in the dish in which it was baked.
+
+With a _maitre d'hotel_, _piquante_, _Mayonnaise_, _Robert_, _ravigote_,
+_Tartar_, or _tomato_ sauce.
+
+Cut it in slices, place them on a dish, spread on them some chopped
+parsley and slices of pickled cucumbers, and send thus to the table,
+with either of the above sauces in a saucer to be used with it.
+
+
+  IN MIROTON.
+
+Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan (this is for about
+two pounds), and set it on the fire; when melted, put in it four
+middling-sized onions, cut in slices when nearly cooked, sprinkle on
+them a pinch of flour, and stir till it takes a golden color; then add
+half a glass of white wine, and as much of broth, also salt, pepper, and
+a little grated nutmeg; boil until well cooked, and till the sauce is
+reduced; then add the boiled beef, cut in slices, and leave it fifteen
+minutes; dish it, pour on a few drops of vinegar, and serve.
+
+_Hushed._--Proceed exactly as for _miroton_, except that the beef is cut
+in strips or chopped, and that no wine is used.
+
+
+  IN SALAD.
+
+Cut it in very thin and short slices, and place them on a dish with
+chopped parsley; put in a saucer sweet-oil and vinegar, according to the
+quantity of beef you have, two tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar,
+salt, pepper, and some mustard; beat the whole a little, pour on the
+slices, and serve.
+
+
+  CORNED BEEF.
+
+Corned beef is generally boiled. Soak the corned beef in cold water for
+some time, according to how salt it is.
+
+Set it on the fire, covered with cold water, and boil gently till done.
+
+_With Cabbage._--Blanch the cabbage for about five minutes, and drain.
+Then put it to cook with the corned beef when the latter is about half
+done; serve both on the same dish, or separately, according to taste.
+
+Corned beef, when boiled as above, without cabbage, can be served and
+decorated, in every way, like boiled beef. It certainly makes sightly as
+well as good dishes for a family dinner.
+
+A piece of corned beef, surrounded with a garniture as we have
+described above, decorated with skewers, is very often served as a
+_releve_ at an extra dinner.
+
+_Cold Corned Beef._--A whole piece, or part of it, may be served _en
+Bellevue_, the same as a _fillet en Bellevue_; it is also excellent.
+
+
+  TONGUE.
+
+Clean and blanch it for about ten minutes--till the white skin can be
+easily removed. After ten minutes boiling, try if it comes off; if not,
+boil a little longer, then skin it well.
+
+_To boil._--When skinned, put it in your soup-kettle with the beef,
+etc., to make broth, and leave it till done. When boiled, the tongue may
+be served and decorated exactly the same as boiled beef, in every way.
+
+_Stewed._--Cut square fillets of bacon, which dredge in a mixture of
+chopped parsley, cives, salt, pepper, and a little allspice; lard the
+tongue with the fillets. Put in a crockery stewpan two ounces of bacon
+cut in dice, four sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, one of sweet basil,
+two bay-leaves, a clove of garlic, two cloves, two carrots cut in
+pieces, four small onions, salt, and pepper; lay the tongue on the
+whole, wet with half a glass of white wine and a glass of broth; set on
+a moderate fire, and simmer about five hours--keep it well covered; then
+put the tongue on a dish, strain the sauce on it, and serve. It is a
+delicious dish.
+
+It may also be served with vegetables around, or with tomato-sauce.
+
+_Another way._--When prepared as above directed, put it on the fire with
+the same seasonings as the preceding one; simmer four hours and take
+from the fire; put the tongue on a dish and let it cool, then place it
+on the spit before a good fire, and finish the cooking; serve it warm
+with an oil, or _piquante_ sauce.
+
+If any is left of either of the two, put in a pan the next day, wet with
+a little broth, set on the fire, and when warm serve it on a _puree_; do
+not allow it to boil.
+
+
+  BRAIN.
+
+Soak it in lukewarm water and clean well, so as to have it free from
+blood, fibres, and thin skin; then soak it again in cold water for
+twelve hours in winter and six in summer. Put in a crockery stewpan one
+ounce of bacon cut in slices, one carrot cut in pieces, two sprigs of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, four small onions cut in
+slices, a teaspoonful of chopped cives, salt, pepper, a pint of white
+wine, as much of broth, and then the brain; set on a moderate fire for
+half an hour and take it off; dish the brain and place it in a warm
+place; then strain the sauce, put it back on the fire with the brain in
+it, add two or three mushrooms cut in pieces, leave on the fire from ten
+to fifteen minutes, and serve it, parted in two, with fried parsley
+around.
+
+_Another way._--When the brain is cleaned and prepared as above, cut it
+in eight pieces. Mix well together a little flour, chopped parsley and
+cives, also a pinch of allspice; roll the pieces of brain in it, so as
+to allow the mixture to adhere to them; have some butter in a frying-pan
+on the fire, and when hot put the pieces of brain in it; fry gently, and
+serve with fried parsley around.
+
+
+  HEART.
+
+Soak it in lukewarm water for two hours, free it from blood and skin,
+drain and wipe dry; then stuff it with sausage-meat, to which you have
+added three or four onions chopped fine, put it in a rather quick oven,
+or on the spit before a good fire (if on the spit, envelop it with
+buttered paper), basting from time to time; it takes about an hour and a
+half to cook a middling-sized one; serve it with a _vinaigrette_,
+_piquante_, _poivrade_, or _ravigote_ sauce.
+
+It may also be fried with butter, and cut in slices, but it is not as
+good as in the above way; it generally becomes hard in frying.
+
+
+  KIDNEYS.
+
+First split the kidneys in four pieces, trim off as carefully as
+possible the sinews and fat that are inside, then cut in small pieces.
+
+_Saute._--The quicker this is done the better the kidney. For a whole
+one put about two ounces of butter in a frying-pan and set it on a very
+sharp fire, toss it round so as to melt the butter as fast as possible,
+but without allowing it to blacken; as soon as melted, turn the cut
+kidney in, stir now and then with a wooden spoon for about three
+minutes, then add a tablespoonful of flour, stir again the same as
+before for about one minute, when add a gill of white wine and about one
+of broth; stir again now and then till the kidney is rather underdone,
+and serve immediately.
+
+If the kidney is allowed to boil till perfectly done, it will very
+seldom be tender.
+
+It may be done with water instead of wine and broth; in that case, add a
+few drops of lemon-juice just before serving it.
+
+Prepare and serve it also as calf's-kidney, in every way as directed for
+the same.
+
+
+  LIVER.
+
+Cut the liver in slices a quarter of an inch in thickness, sprinkle on
+them salt and pepper, place them on a gridiron, and set on a sharp
+fire; turn over only once, and serve rather underdone, with butter and
+chopped parsley, kneaded together and spread between the slices.
+
+A few drops of lemon-juice may be added.
+
+_Another way._--When the liver is cut in slices, as above, put a piece
+of butter in a frying-pan on the fire, and when melted, lay the slices
+in; turn over only once, then serve, with salt, pepper, vinegar, and
+chopped parsley.
+
+
+  TAIL.
+
+Cut the tail at the joint, so as to make as many pieces as there are
+joints; throw the pieces in boiling water for fifteen minutes, and drain
+them. When cold and dry, put them in a saucepan with a bay-leaf, two
+onions, with a clove stuck in each, two sprigs of parsley, and one of
+thyme, a clove of garlic, salt, pepper, half a wine-glass of white wine,
+and a few thin slices of salt pork; cover with broth or water, and set
+on a moderate fire for two hours. Dish the pieces, strain the sauce on
+them, and serve with a garniture of cabbage, or with any _puree_.
+
+
+  TRIPE.
+
+_How to clean and prepare._--Scrape and wash it well several times in
+boiling water, changing the water every time, then put in very cold
+water for about twelve hours, changing the water two or three times;
+place it in a pan, cover it with cold water; season with parsley, cives,
+onions, one or two cloves of garlic, cloves, salt, and pepper; boil
+gently five hours, take out and drain.
+
+In case the water should boil away, add more.
+
+You may save all the trouble of cleaning and preparing, by buying it
+ready prepared, as it is generally sold in cities.
+
+_Broiled._--When prepared, dip it in lukewarm butter, roll in
+bread-crumbs, place on a gridiron, and set it on a moderate fire; turn
+over as many times as is necessary to broil it well, and serve with a
+_vinaigrette_, _piquante_, or Tartar sauce; also with a tomato-sauce.
+
+_Stewed._--Put in a stewpan two ounces of salt pork, cut in dice, three
+carrots cut in slices, eight small onions, four cloves, two bay-leaves,
+two cloves of garlic, a piece of nutmeg, four sprigs of parsley, two of
+thyme, a dozen stalks of cives, six pepper-corns, the fourth part of an
+ox-foot cut in four pieces, salt, pepper, about two ounces of ham cut in
+dice, then three pounds of double tripe on the whole; spread two ounces
+of fat bacon cut in thin slices on the top; wet with half white wine and
+half water, or water only if you choose; put the cover on, and if not
+air-tight, put some paste around; set in a slow oven for six hours, then
+take the tripe out, strain the sauce, skim off the fat when cool, then
+put the sauce and tripe again in your pan, warm well, and serve in
+crockery plates or bowls placed on chafing-dishes, as it is necessary to
+keep it warm while eating. It is good with water only, but better with
+half wine. This is also called _a la mode de Caen_.
+
+_In Poulette._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, cut one pound of
+tripe in strips about one and a half inches broad, then cut again
+contrariwise, so as to make small fillets. Put one ounce of butter in a
+saucepan with half a tablespoonful of flour, and mix cold; add two gills
+of water, mix again, set on the fire, stir now and then, give one boil,
+put the tripe in, salt and pepper to taste; boil two minutes and dish
+the whole; put a teaspoonful of chopped parsley all over, and serve hot.
+
+_Aux Fines Herbes._--Broil the tripe, and serve it with sauce _fines
+herbes_.
+
+Tripe may be bought pickled; it is then served at breakfast and lunch.
+
+
+  SMOKED BEEF'S TONGUE.
+
+Soak the smoked tongue in cold water for at least three hours, change
+the water once or twice during the process. Then take off the thin skin
+or strip around if there is any; put the tongue in a saucepan with two
+sprigs of thyme, two of parsley, a bay-leaf, two cloves, six small
+onions, and a clove of garlic; fill the pan with cold water, and let
+simmer about six hours. If the water is boiling away, add more. Take
+from the fire, let cool as it is, then take it out of the water; clean
+it, let dry, and serve it when cold.
+
+Cut the tongue, when prepared as above, either in slices or in strips,
+and use for sandwiches, or serve it whole, with a cucumber, _piquante_,
+_poivrade_, or tomato sauce, at breakfast or lunch. It may also be
+served in _vinaigrette_.
+
+When prepared as directed above, serve it as a fillet of beef _en
+Bellevue_, for supper, lunch, or breakfast. It makes a fine and
+delicious dish.
+
+It is used also to stuff boned turkeys and other birds, as directed in
+those receipts; always boil it as directed above, before using it.
+
+When served with any of the above sauces, it may be decorated with
+skewers the same as boiled beef.
+
+_Larded._--When boiled, lard it with salt pork, and bake it for about
+one hour in a moderately heated oven, and serve it with the same sauces
+as above.
+
+Cut in slices and served with parsley, it is a _hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+
+
+
+  MUTTON.
+
+  HOW TO SELECT.
+
+
+You may be sure that mutton is good when the flesh is rather black, and
+the fat white; if the fat breaks easily, it is young.
+
+The wether is much superior to the ewe.
+
+You will know if a leg of mutton comes from a wether, if there is a
+large and hard piece of fat on one side at the larger and upper end; if
+from a ewe, that part is merely a kind of skin, with a little fat on it.
+
+
+  ROASTED.
+
+A piece of mutton to roast must not be too fresh, it is much more tender
+when the meat is rather seasoned, but not tainted, or what is sometimes
+called "high." When on the spit, place it near the fire, baste
+immediately with a little melted butter, and then with the drippings. As
+soon as you notice that a kind of crust or coating has formed around the
+piece of meat, remove it a little from the fire by degrees; and continue
+basting till done. The quicker the crust is formed, though without
+burning the meat, the more juicy and tender it will be.
+
+Roast mutton, like roast beef, is better served rather underdone, but
+should be a little more done than beef. When properly roasted, the meat,
+whatever piece it may be, either a loin or saddle, a leg, shoulder, or
+a breast, may be served with its gravy only; that is, with what is in
+the dripping-pan after having removed all the fat, also on a _soubise_
+or on a _puree_ of sorrel. The above pieces may also be served in the
+following ways:
+
+_With Potatoes._--When dished, surround the meat with potatoes, either
+fried, mashed, or in _croquettes_.
+
+_With Quenelles._--Dish the meat, place half a dozen _quenelles_ around
+it, and decorate it with skewers which you have run through a _quenelle_
+and then through a craw-fish and stuck in the meat.
+
+_With Carrots._--When dished, put all around the meat carrots _au jus_,
+or glazed and cut with a vegetable spoon.
+
+_With Spinach._--Spinach _au jus_ when done is spread on the dish, the
+meat is put on it, and served warm. Do the same with a _puree_ of
+cauliflowers.
+
+
+  BAKED.
+
+All the above pieces are baked as well as roasted; and when done, served
+exactly in the same and every way as when roasted.
+
+Put the meat in a baking-pan with a little butter spread over it; cover
+the bottom of the pan with cold water, then put in a quick oven. After
+it has been in the oven for about fifteen minutes, baste and place a
+piece of buttered paper on the top of the meat. If the bottom of the pan
+is getting dry, add a little more water, but it is seldom the case
+except with inferior meat. When you see rather too much fat in the pan,
+take from the oven, turn the fat off, put cold water instead, and put
+back in the oven to finish the cooking. If the paper burns, put on
+another piece; but by basting often over the paper, it will remain
+pretty long before burning.
+
+With a small knife or a skewer you ascertain when done enough or to your
+liking; never cook by guess or by hearsay; the oven may be quicker one
+day than another, or slower; the meat may be more tender, or more hard;
+remember that if you cook by guess (we mean, to put down, as a matter of
+course, that it takes so many hours, or so many minutes, to bake this or
+that), and stick to it, you will fail nine times out of ten. When done,
+serve as directed above.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Make and serve as chicken _croquettes_.
+
+_In Haricot or Ragout._--Take a neck or breast piece of mutton, which
+cut in pieces about two inches long and one broad. Put them in a
+saucepan (say three pounds) with two ounces of butter, set on the fire
+and stir occasionally till turning rather brown, then add a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir for one minute, cover with cold water, add
+one onion whole, salt, a bunch of seasonings composed of four sprigs of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove, one clove of garlic,
+chopped fine. Boil gently till about two-thirds done, stirring now and
+then; add potatoes, peeled, quartered, and cut, as far as possible, of
+the shape of a carpel of orange. The proportion is, about as many pieces
+of potatoes as of meat. Boil again gently till done, place the pieces of
+meat in the middle of the dish, the potatoes around, the juice or sauce
+over the whole, and serve. Skim off the fat, if any, before turning the
+sauce over the rest.
+
+
+  BREAST BOILED.
+
+Put the breast entire in a saucepan, with a sprig of thyme, two of
+parsley, a bay-leaf, a clove, salt, and pepper, cover with water, set
+on the fire, boil gently till cooked, and then drain. Put in a
+frying-pan three tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley, salt, and pepper; when hot lay the breast in and fry it all
+around for five minutes; then take it off, roll it in bread-crumbs,
+place it on a gridiron, and set on a good fire for five minutes; turn it
+over once only, then serve it with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, or tomato
+sauce. It may also be served on a _puree_ of sorrel.
+
+
+  NECK BROILED.
+
+Prepare and serve exactly the same as a breast broiled.
+
+A breast or a neck piece broiled may be served on a _soubise_. It may
+also be served with a _maitre d'hotel_ or mushroom sauce, also with a
+_piquante_ or any other sharp sauce.
+
+
+  CHOPS.
+
+_Broiled._--Trim and flatten the chops with a chopper, sprinkle salt and
+pepper on both sides, dip them in melted butter, place them on a
+gridiron, and set on a sharp fire, turn over two or three times to broil
+properly, and when done, serve them around a dish, one lapping over the
+other, etc., and serve with the gravy. It takes about twelve minutes to
+cook with a good fire.
+
+_Another way._--When trimmed and flattened, dip them in beaten egg, roll
+them in bread-crumbs and broil, either as they are, or enveloped in
+buttered paper, and serve them with a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce.
+
+_Sautes._--When trimmed and flattened, fry them with a little butter on
+both sides; then take the chops from the pan and put them in a warm
+place. Leave in the pan only a tablespoonful of fat, add to it three
+times as much broth, a teaspoonful of parsley and green onions, two
+shallots, two pickled cucumbers, all chopped fine, and a pinch of
+allspice; give one boil, pour the whole on the chops, also the juice of
+half a lemon, and serve.
+
+_The same, with Vegetables._--Put in a frying-pan a piece of butter the
+size of two walnuts for four chops, set on a good fire, and when hot lay
+the chops in, after having flattened them with a chopper, and having
+sprinkled salt and pepper on both sides; add a clove, and a teaspoonful
+of chopped parsley and green onions; leave thus five minutes, turn over
+once or twice; then add also half a wine-glass of broth, same of white
+wine, and finish the cooking. Take the chops off the pan and put them in
+a warm place. Boil the sauce in the pan ten minutes, turn it on the
+chops, put a garniture of vegetables around, and serve. Throw away the
+clove just before serving.
+
+_Another way._--Have a piece of butter the size of an egg for eight
+chops in a crockery vessel, and set it on a good fire; when melted take
+from the fire, lay the chops in, after having flattened them; then cover
+them with a sheet of buttered paper; place the vessel in a rather hot
+oven, and when cooked serve them on a _maitre d'hotel_, _provencale_, or
+tomato sauce. They may also be served on a _puree_ of sorrel, or one of
+potatoes.
+
+_The same, in Papillote._--Cut the chops rather thin, beat them gently
+and flatten them; then proceed as for veal cutlets in _papillotes_ in
+every particular.
+
+_Financiere._--Broil the chops, either with or without egg and crumbs,
+and serve them with a _financiere_ garniture.
+
+_Soubise._--The chops are either broiled or fried; either broiled only
+dipped in lukewarm butter or in beaten egg and crumbs and then served on
+a _soubise_. A little lemon-juice may be added when they are on the
+dish.
+
+_Jardiniere._--Cut two carrots and two turnips with a vegetable spoon
+and set on the fire with cold water and salt; boil gently till tender,
+and drain. Boil also in the same way, in another pan and till tender,
+two tablespoonfuls of green peas, or string-beans cut in pieces, and
+drain also. Then put carrots, turnips, peas, or beans, back on the fire,
+in the same pan with a little gravy and broth, enough to cover them,
+salt, and pepper; boil gently five minutes; then put the chops in after
+being fried as directed below; boil another five minutes; take from the
+fire, place the chops around the dish, one lapping over the other, and
+so that an empty place is left in the middle; turn the carrots, turnips,
+and peas, with the sauce in that empty place, and serve. Salt and pepper
+the chops on both sides; fry them in a little butter till about
+three-quarters done; then take off and put with the vegetables as
+directed above. They may be broiled instead of fried, which is better.
+
+_A la Princesse._--Trim the chops as usual and salt and pepper both
+sides. Chop very fine a piece of lean veal about half a pound for six or
+eight chops, according to size, then pound it and mix it with half a
+teaspoonful of flour, a pinch of nutmeg, salt, pepper, a yolk of egg,
+two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs and one ounce of butter. If too firm
+the butter must be melted so as to mix better. Put the mixture in a
+saucepan, set on a good fire, stir for ten minutes, and take off. Then
+grease the paste-board slightly with butter, put a teaspoonful of the
+mixture here and there on it, roll and make small balls of it, drop them
+in boiling broth or water, boiling about fifteen minutes, and take off
+with a skimmer. Dip the chops in melted butter, then in beaten eggs, and
+roll in bread-crumbs; fry them with a little butter. Fry the balls also.
+Place the chops on the dish, the bones toward the edge, and the balls
+between the chops; serve warm. A few balls may be placed in the middle.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Broil and serve them with a _puree_ of mushrooms, or
+with a mushroom garniture.
+
+Mutton chops, broiled, may be served with every kind of butter, every
+garniture, and every sauce, according to taste; they may also be served
+with every _puree_.
+
+A French cook once said he could serve mutton _chops_ in three hundred
+ways, _apples_ in two hundred ways, and _eggs_ in four hundred ways. The
+culinary science and art is advanced enough to-day to double the above
+figures, and have plenty to spare.
+
+
+  LEG.
+
+Besides being prepared as directed for roast mutton, a leg of mutton,
+roasted or baked, may be served in the following ways:
+
+Boil white beans and drain them as directed, then put them on the fire
+with the drippings of the leg of mutton for ten minutes, stirring now
+and then, and serve them with it. They may also be kept in the
+dripping-pan for ten minutes, when boiled and drained, before the leg is
+done. If the leg of mutton is baked, set them on the fire for about ten
+minutes, with the gravy, stirring occasionally. Serve either on the same
+or on a separate dish.
+
+_With Currant Jelly._--Roast or bake the leg of mutton, and serve it
+with currant jelly or with a _puree_.
+
+_Provencale._--With a sharp-pointed knife, make a small cut in the leg
+of mutton here and there, and large enough to stick into the cut a clove
+of garlic. Make as many cuts as you please, from six to twenty,
+according to taste, and in each cut stick a clove of garlic. When
+prepared thus, roast or bake, and serve it with either of the following
+sauces: _piquante_, _poivrade_, _ravigote_, _remolade_, Robert, shallot,
+Tartar, tomato, and in _vinaigrette_.
+
+_Decorated._--A leg of mutton may be decorated the same as a fillet of
+beef.
+
+_Stewed._--Take the large bone out, leaving the bone at the smaller end
+as a handle; cut off also the bone below the knuckle, and fix it with
+skewers; then put it in a stewpan with a pinch of allspice, four onions,
+two cloves, two carrots cut in four pieces each, a small bunch of
+parsley, two bay-leaves, three sprigs of thyme, salt, pepper, two ounces
+of bacon cut in slices, a quarter of a pint of broth, and water enough
+just to cover it; set on a good fire, and after one hour of boiling add
+a liquor-glass of French brandy. Let simmer then for about five hours,
+in all about six hours; then dish it, strain the sauce on it, and serve.
+
+We would advise those who have never tasted of a leg of mutton cooked as
+above, to try it.
+
+It may be served also with white beans cooked in water and fried in
+butter, or on fried potatoes.
+
+_The next day._--If you have a piece left for the next day, cut it in
+thin slices after dinner, place the slices on a dish, with parsley
+under, in the middle, and above, and keep in a cold place.
+
+A while before dinner you put in a stewpan a piece of butter (the
+quantity to be according to the quantity of meat), and set it on a good
+fire; when melted, sprinkle in, gradually, a little flour, stirring with
+a wooden spoon; when of a proper thickness, and of a brownish color, add
+a glass of broth, salt, pepper, a few pickled cucumbers cut in slices,
+and two or three mushrooms; boil ten minutes; lay the slices of meat in,
+subdue the fire, simmer twenty minutes, and serve.
+
+_The same, in another way._--Chop fine the slices of leg of mutton, put
+a piece of butter in a stewpan, and set it on the fire; when melted,
+place the chopped meat in, keep stirring with a wooden spoon for about
+ten minutes; then add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, salt,
+pepper, and a pinch of allspice; simmer fifteen minutes, and serve with
+fried eggs all around the dish.
+
+_Boiled._--Set a saucepan on the fire with cold water enough to cover
+the leg of mutton, add salt; at the first boil put the leg of mutton in,
+wrapped up in a towel. Boil gently till done. For a middling-sized one,
+it takes about two hours. Remove the towel, dish the leg of mutton,
+spread a caper-sauce over it, and serve hot. The sauce may also be
+served in a boat or saucer.
+
+_Cold._--What is left of it may be prepared like cold mutton in
+vinaigrette.
+
+
+  SHOULDER.
+
+_Shoulder boned._--Split the shoulder just in the middle, on the inside,
+lengthwise and following the middle of the bones; remove the flat bone
+at the larger end first. This is easily done by scraping the meat off
+the bone on both sides, and then pulling it off. Do the same with the
+remaining bone. Spread the shoulder open on the table, the inside up,
+salt and pepper it, then spread on it the same stuffing as for a chicken
+stuffed with sausage-meat. Roll the shoulder round, tie it with twine,
+and roast or bake it. When roasted or baked, serve with the gravy.
+
+_On a Puree._--Bone and roll the shoulder as above directed, but do not
+stuff it; roast or bake it, and serve it on a _puree_ of potatoes,
+beans, peas, lentils, or any other vegetable; place the shoulder in the
+middle of a dish, cut it in slices, and place them all around the
+_puree_, one lapping over the other; turn the gravy over the whole
+through a strainer, and serve hot.
+
+_With a Sauce._--When baked or roasted as above, with or without
+stuffing, serve it with a _piquante_, _ravigote_, or _Robert_ sauce.
+
+_Boiled._--Boil, and serve it with a caper-sauce, the same as the leg.
+
+
+  SADDLE.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve the saddle in the same way as the leg--roasted
+or baked, warm or cold.
+
+
+  COLD MUTTON.
+
+_Served cold, a la Vinaigrette._--A shoulder of mutton, roasted or
+baked, after being boned, makes a handsome dish served cold. Cut any
+piece of cold mutton that you may have, in thin slices, as evenly as
+possible. Place a paste-cutter, about an inch and a half in diameter, in
+the middle of an oval dish; then place the slices of meat all around the
+dish, one slice lapping over another; the dish being oval, the slices of
+meat will touch the paste-cutter on two sides, but there will be two
+empty places on the two other sides, which you fill with hard-boiled
+white of egg chopped fine, and hard-boiled yolk of egg chopped fine
+also; they must not be mixed, and the yolk must be farther from the
+paste-cutter, the white touching it. Put a string of chopped yolk of egg
+all around the meat, and outside of it one of chopped white of egg
+around the yolk, and one of chopped parsley around the white. Remove the
+paste-cutter, and put a rose, or two or three pinks, in its place, or a
+small bunch of violets. Place one or three capers on each small heap of
+yolk of egg that is on the middle of the dish, and also some capers here
+and there on the string of white of egg.
+
+Place a rose at each end of the dish, as indicated in the cut opposite;
+six radishes around the dish, also as indicated in the cut, and you have
+a dish as sightly as can be made, and an excellent one, too. Serve with
+the following sauce in a boat or saucer: Put in a bowl half a
+teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper and salt; then pour one or two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar on, little by little, beating with a fork at
+the same time; again, three or four tablespoonfuls of oil, and in the
+same way; and when the whole is well mixed, serve.
+
+[Illustration: A, two roses, one at each end; B, six radishes around; C,
+slices of meat; D, eggs; E, yolks of eggs; F, parsley.]
+
+
+  SHEEP'S BRAIN.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve as calf's brain.
+
+
+  FEET.
+
+_Broiled._--Throw them in boiling water for ten minutes, clean and
+scrape off the hair and take out the large bone. Put in a saucepan a
+bay-leaf, one clove, a tablespoonful of vinegar, a clove of garlic, two
+sprigs of parsley, two green onions, salt, pepper, a piece of butter the
+size of two walnuts, half a pint of broth, then a dozen feet on the
+whole; set on a slow fire, simmer one hour, stir now and then, take from
+the fire and let cool. Then dip each foot in beaten egg, and roll it in
+bread-crumbs; place them on a gridiron; turn over to broil both sides
+properly, and serve them with the sauce in which they have been cooked,
+after having strained it. They may also be served on a _piquante_,
+_poivrade_, _ravigote_, or _Robert_ sauce.
+
+_In Poulette._--Prepare and clean them as directed above. Put in a
+saucepan four ounces of salt pork cut in dice, two ounces of lard, salt,
+and white pepper; when warm, add three sprigs of parsley, two of thyme,
+a bay-leaf, one clove, four onions, and one carrot, cut in slices, a
+quarter of a lemon, also cut in slices, free from rind and seed, two
+tablespoonfuls of flour; this last must be added by sprinkling it little
+by little, stirring the while with a wooden spoon; five minutes after,
+place the feet in, cover the whole with warm water, and let simmer
+gently for five or six hours. After that time see if the meat can be
+easily detached from the bones, and if so, they are cooked; if not,
+leave them a little longer, and take from the fire as soon as it is
+easily detached, but do not detach it. Put in a stewpan a piece of
+butter the size of two walnuts; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir with a wooden spoon, then put the feet in,
+add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, a little piece of
+nutmeg, salt, pepper, and two or three mushrooms cut in slices or
+pieces; wet with broth; simmer half an hour, take from the fire, and
+throw away the piece of nutmeg; mix with the whole two yolks of eggs
+well beaten and a tablespoonful of vinegar, and serve.
+
+
+  SHEEP'S KIDNEYS, BROILED.
+
+Split them in two, and put them in cold water for five minutes; trim off
+the pellicle or thin skin, run a skewer through, sprinkle salt and
+pepper on, place them on the gridiron, and set on a good fire; turn
+over, and when broiled, serve them with a piece of butter and chopped
+parsley kneaded together, and placed on each kidney; add also a few
+drops of lemon-juice.
+
+You may also, when broiled, serve them on a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce.
+
+_The same, in Brochette._--Proceed as above in every particular, except
+that you place the kidneys on the spit instead of on the gridiron. Serve
+them in the same way.
+
+_The same, with Champagne._--Cut the kidneys in slices, each in ten or
+twelve pieces. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of two
+walnuts, and set it on the fire; when melted, add a teaspoonful of
+chopped parsley, same of mushrooms, a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt,
+pepper, and the kidneys; keep tossing till they become stiff, then
+sprinkle on them a saltspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon
+the while; add also a wine-glass of Champagne, or of good white wine;
+subdue the fire, and let simmer till cooked; take from the fire, add
+about one ounce of fresh butter, and the juice of half a lemon, and
+serve. This is a very delicate dish.
+
+
+  SHEEP'S TAILS.
+
+Put in a stewpan two ounces of bacon cut in slices, with a bay-leaf, two
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, one clove, six small onions, one carrot
+cut in four pieces, then about six tails; cover the whole with broth and
+white wine, half of each; add salt and pepper. Place the pan in a
+moderately heated oven; it will take about four hours to cook them.
+After that time, take the tails from the pan, and put them in a warm
+place, then strain the sauce in which they have cooked, skim off the fat
+if too much of it, put the sauce back in the pan, and set on the fire;
+let it reduce till rather thick, place the tails on a _puree_, turn the
+sauce on them, and serve.
+
+
+  SHEEP'S TONGUES.
+
+Soak the tongues in cold water for two hours in winter, and one in
+summer, and drain. Throw them in boiling water, and leave till you can
+easily take the skin off; then skin and clean well, split in two
+lengthwise, and let cool. Put in a stewpan two ounces of bacon cut in
+thin slices, a bay-leaf, two sprigs of thyme, four of parsley, two
+cloves, three green onions and six small red or white ones, one carrot
+cut in four pieces, salt and pepper, then the tongues; add also half a
+pint of broth, same of water, same of white wine; set in a moderately
+heated oven, and simmer about four hours; have the stewpan covered as
+nearly air-tight as possible. Then take the tongues from the pan and
+drain them; knead well together two ounces of fresh butter, with two
+teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, a little salt and allspice; spread some
+on each of the tongues as soon as they are cold; envelop each in oiled
+paper, broil them gently on a slow fire, and serve with the paper.
+
+You may also when prepared and cooked as above directed, and instead of
+broiling them, place a _puree_ on a dish, and serve them on a _puree_,
+pouring on the whole the sauce in which they have cooked, and straining
+it at the same time.
+
+They are really more delicate when broiled.
+
+
+  LAMB.
+
+_To select._--The flesh must be like that of mutton, rather black, and
+the fat white.
+
+There is no difference in the wether and ewe. The shorter the quarters
+are the better the meat, and the fore as well as the hind quarter. With
+the exception that the breast-piece is prepared also in _epigramme_, and
+that it is cut in quarters instead of dividing it like mutton, lamb may
+be prepared in the same and every way like mutton. The quarters may be
+prepared like shoulder, leg, and saddle of mutton.
+
+_Chops_ may be cut and prepared the same as mutton-chops.
+
+_Fore-Quarter._--According to the opinion of a great many epicures, the
+fore-quarter is the best part of the lamb; but, as we have previously
+said, every one to his liking.
+
+Lard it slightly, and envelop it with buttered paper, place it upon the
+spit before a good fire; when done take from the fire, and take the
+paper off, sprinkle on it salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; put back on
+the spit before a sharp fire, just long enough to allow it to take a
+fine color; then take off, run a knife under the shoulder to make a
+small hole, pour _maitre d'hotel_ sauce in it, and serve either as it
+is, with its gravy, or on a _puree_ of sorrel.
+
+_To bake it._--Put it in a baking-pan, spread a little salt, pepper, and
+butter over it; cover it with a piece of buttered paper; have the bottom
+of the pan covered with cold water and put in a warm oven, baste often
+till done. If the paper burns, put on another piece. Run a small knife
+or a skewer into the meat, to ascertain when properly done.
+
+It may be served with the gravy only, after having removed the fat, or
+with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, or _maitre d'hotel_ sauce.
+
+It is also served with a garniture of mushrooms or onions, or with a
+_macedoine_, or on a _puree_ of spinach, or of sorrel.
+
+_Hind-Quarter._--Throw it in boiling water for five minutes, and drain.
+Put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg, and set on the
+fire; when melted, mix in it a tablespoonful of flour; after which, pour
+in, little by little, a pint and a half of boiling water, stirring with
+a wooden spoon all the time; then put the meat in the pan, add four
+onions, a bay-leaf, two cloves, three sprigs of parsley, two of thyme,
+salt, and pepper; about fifteen minutes before it is done, add two or
+three mushrooms cut in slices, take from the fire when cooked, place the
+meat on a dish with the mushrooms and onions around, or if preferred,
+without either; strain the sauce on the meat, and serve.
+
+If the sauce is not thick enough, mix the yolk of an egg in it just
+before serving.
+
+_Roasted._--Roast and serve the hind-quarter in the same way as directed
+for the fore-quarter.
+
+_Baked._--Bake and serve it also in the same and every way like the
+fore-quarter.
+
+_Epigramme._--Put a breast of lamb in a saucepan, cover it with cold
+water, season with a small onion and one clove stuck in it, two stalks
+of parsley, a piece of carrot, one of turnip, and salt. Boil gently till
+you can pull off the bones easily. It may also be boiled in the
+soup-kettle while making broth. When the bones come off easily, take
+from the fire, pull out all the small bones and cut out the large one.
+Place the breast in a large bakepan, with some weight over so as to
+flatten it, and leave it so till perfectly cold. Then cut it in pieces
+of rhombic shape about four inches long and two inches broad; salt and
+pepper each piece on both sides; dip them in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs and fry them with a little butter, and serve on a tomato,
+_piquante_, _ravigote_, or _soubise_ sauce, or on any _puree_.
+
+When the sauce is spread on the dish, place the pieces of lamb all
+around it, one lapping over the other, and forming a kind of oblong
+string, and serve warm.
+
+_Another._--When the _epigramme_ is prepared as above and ready to be
+served, have as many mutton-chops as you have pieces of meat from the
+breast; dish in the same way, except that you put one piece of the
+breast and then a mutton-chop fried in the same way as the pieces of
+meat; the chops lapping over the pieces of breast, and _vice versa_.
+
+_Broiled._--The same may be broiled instead of fried, and served in the
+same way.
+
+_Roasted entire._--Skewer a lamb properly on the spit, envelop it with
+buttered paper, place before a good fire, baste often with melted butter
+first, and then with the drippings; when nearly done take the paper off,
+let the lamb take a fine color around, and serve it with the gravy. It
+may be served with a garniture around and decorated with skewers, the
+same as directed for fillet of beef; it then makes a sightly as well as
+a delicious dish.
+
+Served with a garniture and decorated as directed for a fillet of beef,
+it is served as a _releve_ at a grand dinner, and as an _entree_ at a
+family dinner.
+
+_Cold._--Cold lamb is served in every way like cold mutton. A part left
+from a roasted piece may be enveloped in buttered paper, put on the spit
+just long enough to warm it, and served just in the same way as roast
+lamb.
+
+_Lamb's head_, _feet_, _kidneys_, etc., are prepared and served like the
+same parts of the sheep, and as directed in the different receipts.
+
+
+  KID.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve kid the same as lamb.
+
+
+
+
+  VEAL.
+
+
+Never buy too young veal. It is very easy to know it; when too young,
+the bones are very tender; they are more like nerves than bones; the
+meat is gluish, and has little or no taste. Epicures say that if a calf
+is killed before it is two months old, or at least six weeks, it is not
+fit for eating. We are of that opinion, although, perhaps, very few are
+allowed so long a life. We will therefore recommend our readers to
+beware buying too young veal; many diseases, especially in children,
+come from eating it.
+
+When you broil or roast a piece of veal, baste often. Veal is better
+when a little overdone; it is not good, and operates like physic, if
+underdone.
+
+The best veal is that of a greenish color and very fat. It is fresh when
+the eyes are full and smooth, and when the meat is firm. If the meat is
+yellowish or contains yellowish spots, it is not fresh. The veins must
+be red.
+
+_To improve._--Chop fine a tablespoonful of parsley, a teaspoonful of
+shallots, same of green onions, a bay-leaf, two sprigs of thyme, two or
+three mushrooms, add to them, salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg;
+cover the bottom of a tureen with half of each, put on it the piece of
+veal you wish to improve, cover with the other half of the seasonings;
+then pour gently on the whole two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil; leave
+the veal thus about four or five hours in winter and about two in
+summer.
+
+
+  ROASTED.
+
+The pieces of veal that are roasted are the _loin_, _leg_, and
+_shoulder_.
+
+It may be improved as directed above or not, according to taste; but we
+earnestly recommend it as not a little improvement, but as a marked one,
+as everybody can try it and judge, veal being naturally tasteless.
+
+There are three ways of roasting veal. We will describe them, so that it
+can be done according to taste.
+
+1. Spread a thin coat of butter around the piece of veal after being
+salted all around, put on the spit before a good but not very sharp
+fire; near it, but not too much so: veal being more tender than beef, it
+would also burn much quicker. Baste often with melted butter first, and
+then with the drippings, and from the beginning to the end. When done,
+that is, when overdone, as veal must always be, serve with the gravy
+only, or in the different ways described below.
+
+2. Lard all the fleshy parts of the piece of veal with a larding-needle
+and strips of salt pork, the same as a fillet of beef, but which strips
+you roll in a mixture of parsley chopped, salt and pepper, before
+running them into the meat, and proceed as above for the rest. Serve
+also like the above.
+
+3. After the piece of veal is improved as directed, spread the
+seasonings in which it has been improved all around it, then envelop the
+whole in buttered paper, which you fasten with twine, put it on the
+spit, and baste often with melted butter. It must be basted often to
+prevent the paper from burning. About fifteen minutes before it is
+done, remove the paper, put the meat a little nearer the fire so as to
+give it a fine yellow or golden color, finish the cooking till overdone,
+and serve also like the first, or No. 1.
+
+No matter which of these three ways the piece of veal is roasted, it is
+served in the same manner.
+
+_With Asparagus._--When the roasted piece of veal is dished, put a
+_puree_ of asparagus all around, and serve warm.
+
+_With Peas._--Spread one pint or one quart (according to the size of the
+piece of meat) of green peas _au jus_, on a dish; place the meat on the
+peas, spread the gravy over the whole, and serve as warm as possible.
+
+_With Quenelles._--Dish the roasted piece, place around it six or eight
+_quenelles_ of chicken or of veal, strain the gravy on the whole, and
+serve warm.
+
+_With Vegetables._--When roasted and dished, put any kind of vegetables,
+prepared _au jus_, all around the piece of meat, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sweetbreads._--Roast the piece of veal as directed, and when
+dished, place six sweetbreads, prepared _au jus_, tastefully around the
+meat; strain the gravy over, and serve very warm.
+
+_Decorated._--Every piece of roasted veal may be decorated with skewers,
+either served _au jus_ or in any of the above ways. The skewers are
+first run through either of the following and then stuck into the piece
+of meat: slices of truffles; chicken-combs, prepared as for garniture;
+slices of sweetbreads or whole ones, prepared _au jus_; _quenelles_ of
+chicken or of veal; slices of carrots, turnips, beets, all prepared _au
+jus_; and mushrooms. One, two, three, or more to every skewer; for
+instance: one slice of truffle, then one of turnip, a chicken-comb, then
+a slice of sweetbread or a whole one, and then stick in the meat. From
+two to six skewers may be used. On a large piece never put less than
+two, and no matter how many you use, always have even numbers of them.
+
+
+  BAKED.
+
+All the parts of veal that are roasted, that is, the loin, leg, and
+shoulder, can be baked. They may be improved in the same way as to roast
+them. Put the piece of veal in a bakepan; spread salt, pepper, and
+butter on it; cover the bottom of the pan with cold water, about a
+quarter of an inch in depth; place a piece of buttered paper on the
+meat, and put in a warm oven. If the meat has been improved, the
+seasonings are spread over it before placing the buttered paper. Baste
+often with the water and juice in the pan and over the paper, which you
+need not remove till about ten minutes before taking from the oven, or
+in case it should burn; then you must replace it by another. It keeps
+the top of the meat moist, and it is more juicy when done.
+
+When properly baked (overdone, as every piece of veal must be), serve
+either _au jus_, or with the same garnitures, the same decorations, as
+directed for roasted veal.
+
+The gravy in the bakepan is strained, the fat skimmed off, and then it
+is turned over the meat and garnitures when dished, the same as the
+drippings or gravy of roast meat. In case the water in the bakepan, or
+the juice, or both, should boil away or be absorbed, put more cold water
+in it, so as to be able to baste.
+
+
+  BLANQUETTE.--(_Also called Poulette._)
+
+Take about two pounds of neck, breast, shoulder, or any other piece,
+which cut in pieces, two inches square, throw them in boiling water,
+with a little salt, for five minutes, and drain them. Put in a stewpan
+a piece of butter the size of an egg, set it on a good fire, and when
+melted mix in a tablespoonful of flour, stirring all the time, and when
+turning yellow pour gently and slowly in the pan a pint of boiling
+water; add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, salt,
+pepper, six small white or red onions, two or three mushrooms, and then
+the meat; boil gently about three hours, and serve.
+
+
+  CROQUETTES.
+
+Proceed as for chicken croquettes in every particular, except that you
+use cold veal instead of cold chicken.
+
+
+  RAGOUT.
+
+The neck and breast pieces are generally used to make a _ragout_, but
+any other piece may be used. Take about three pounds of veal, which cut
+in pieces about two inches square. Put two ounces of butter in a
+saucepan, set it on the fire, and as soon as the butter is melted, lay
+the meat in, stir now and then till of a golden color, and then take the
+meat from the pan. Leave the pan on the fire, and put in it a
+tablespoonful of flour, little by little, keep stirring about five
+minutes; add also half a pint of broth, same of warm water, one onion
+with a clove stuck in it, a bay leaf, two sprigs of thyme, two of
+parsley, a clove of garlic, a small carrot cut in two or three pieces,
+salt and pepper, then the meat, and cover the pan. Half an hour after
+your meat is in, fry in butter in a frying-pan six small onions, which
+you also put in the stewpan as soon as fried. When the whole is cooked,
+place the meat on a dish, strain the sauce on it, surround the whole
+with the six small onions, and serve warm.
+
+_In Scallops._--Take a piece from the loin or leg of veal, cut it in
+pieces about three inches long, two inches broad, and one-third of an
+inch thick, as evenly as possible, and flatten them with a chopper. Salt
+and pepper them on both sides, and fry them with a little butter till
+about half done, on both sides alike. Add a little broth and chopped
+parsley, and boil gently till done. Place the pieces of veal all around
+the platter, one lapping over another, turn the sauce in the middle of
+them, and serve.
+
+_Another._--Cut the veal in pieces as for the above; beat one or two
+eggs in a plate with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley; dip each piece
+into it and then roll in bread-crumbs; butter a bakepan, place the veal
+in with a small lump of butter on each piece, and bake; turn over to
+bake evenly. Serve as the above, with a _piquante_ or tomato sauce in
+the middle.
+
+
+  BREAST, STEWED.
+
+Cut in dice two ounces of bacon, put it in a stewpan and set on a good
+fire; add two ounces of butter, and two onions cut in slices; when
+melted, lay the breast in, turn it over and leave till of a golden color
+on both sides; add then two small carrots cut in pieces, one teaspoonful
+of chopped green onions, three sprigs of parsley, half a turnip, salt,
+and pepper; moisten with half a pint of warm water; leave thus about
+three hours on a moderate fire. Strain the juice in a dish, put the meat
+on it, and serve.
+
+The pieces of carrots and of bacon may be served with the meat, if you
+choose.
+
+_The same, with Green Peas._--Cut the breast in square pieces about two
+inches in size. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter the size of an egg,
+and set it on the fire; when melted, mix in it a teaspoonful of flour,
+then lay the meat in, and wet with half a glass of broth, same of warm
+water, also two sprigs of parsley, salt, and pepper; stir now and then.
+One hour after add green peas, and leave on the fire till the whole is
+cooked, when skim off the fat on the surface, and serve.
+
+_In Matelote._--To make a _matelote_ of veal any piece can be used, but
+most generally it is made with a breast or neck piece. Cut the veal in
+square pieces about two inches in size; have in a stewpan and on a good
+fire a piece of butter about the size of an egg; when melted, put the
+meat in, stir now and then till of a golden color; then take the meat
+from the stewpan, which you leave on the fire, and in which you put half
+a pint of warm water, same of claret wine, same of broth, a bay-leaf,
+two cloves, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a clove of garlic,
+salt, and pepper; when turning brown, put the meat back in the pan, and
+fifteen minutes before it is cooked add also ten small onions fried in
+butter beforehand and four or five mushrooms, then have a brisk fire to
+finish the cooking; place the meat on a dish, strain the sauce on the
+meat, put the ten small onions around it, and serve.
+
+_Broiled._--Salt and pepper both sides of the breast of veal, grease it
+all over with melted butter, by means of a brush, and broil till
+overdone. Serve with a _maitre d'hotel_, _piquante_, or _poivrade_
+sauce.
+
+
+  CUTLETS.
+
+_Broiled._--When properly trimmed, they may be improved as directed for
+veal. Salt and pepper both sides; spread a little melted butter on both
+sides also by means of a brush; place them on, before, or under the fire
+(_see_ Broiling); baste now and then with melted butter; turn over one,
+two, or three times, and when rather overdone serve with a _maitre
+d'hotel_ sauce spread all over.
+
+The above way of serving them is sometimes called _au naturel_.
+
+_With Crumbs._--When trimmed, dip them in egg beaten with salt, pepper,
+and chopped parsley, roll them in bread-crumbs, and then broil and serve
+them as the above, with a _maitre d'hotel_.
+
+_Fines Herbes._--Broil the chops as above, either with or without
+crumbs, and serve them with sauce _aux fines herbes_.
+
+_A l'Italienne._--When broiled as above, serve them on a layer of
+_macaroni Italienne_.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--When broiled and dished, surround them with a
+garniture of mushrooms, and serve warm. When there are several cutlets
+on the dish, and placed all around overlapping, the garniture may be put
+in the middle of the chops.
+
+Do the same with the following garnitures: chicken-combs, _croutons_,
+_duxelle_, _financiere_, _Macedoine_, and onion. They may also be served
+on any _puree_.
+
+_Baked._--Trim six cutlets. Mix well half a pound of sausage-meat with
+two eggs. Put a piece of buttered paper large enough to cover the bottom
+of a bakepan in which the six cutlets may be laid easily. Spread half
+the sausage-meat on the paper in the pan, then lay the cutlets in it;
+put the other half of the sausage-meat over the cutlets, and place the
+whole in a rather quick oven. Baste every five minutes with melted
+butter and broth, using them alternately, and serve warm with the gravy
+when done. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added to them when on the
+dish, if liked.
+
+_Sautees._--Trim, and fry them with a little butter. When done on both
+sides, add a little broth, salt, pepper, and mushrooms and parsley
+chopped fine; chopped truffles may be added, if handy; boil gently for
+about ten minutes. Place the cutlets around the dish, one lapping over
+the other, turn the sauce in the middle, sprinkle some lemon-juice over
+the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sauce._--When broiled, baked, or _sauted_, they may be dished and
+served with either of the following sauces: _fines herbes_, _maitre
+d'hotel_, _piquante_, _poivrade_, _ravigote_, _tarragon_, tomato, or
+truffle.
+
+_En Bellevue._--Proceed the same as for fillet of beef _en Bellevue_.
+
+_In Papillotes._--Trim six veal-chops, spread salt and pepper on them,
+and fry them with a little butter till about half done. Take from the
+fire, and cut a small hole in the middle with a paste-cutter. While they
+are frying, fry with a little butter one onion chopped fine; as soon as
+fried, add half a pound of sausage-meat; stir now and then for about
+five minutes; add also a pinch of cinnamon, same of nutmeg; take off and
+mix with the whole one yolk of egg, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
+salt, and pepper. Cut six pieces of white paper of a heart-like shape,
+and large enough to envelop a chop; grease them slightly with butter or
+sweet-oil; place some sausage-meat on one side of the paper (say half a
+tablespoonful), place a chop on it; put some sausage-meat on the chop
+and in the hole; fold the paper in two; then, by folding all around the
+border, the chop and seasonings are perfectly enveloped in the paper;
+put the chops in a baking-pan, spread a few drops of oil all over, and
+bake for about fifteen minutes in an oven at about 250 deg. Fahr.
+Instead of baking them, broil them carefully turning them over often and
+basting them to prevent the paper from burning, and serve with the paper
+on. They may be served on a _duxelle_ garniture, or with a _puree_.
+
+_Fricandeau._--Take a piece of veal of any size, from the leg, loin, or
+cutlet piece, about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, lard one
+side with salt pork, the same as a fillet of beef. Put in a saucepan
+(for two pounds of meat) one ounce of butter, half a middling-sized
+onion, and as much carrot in slices, two or three stalks of parsley, one
+of thyme, a bay-leaf, six or eight pepper-corns, and rind of the pork
+you have used; spread all these seasonings on the bottom of the
+saucepan, put the piece of veal on them, the larded side up, set on a
+good fire for about fifteen minutes; after which you look if the under
+side of the meat is well browned; if so, add a gill of broth, put in the
+oven and baste often, if not, leave a little longer on the fire. Add a
+little broth once in a while, to keep the bottom of the pan wet, and to
+have enough to baste till a little overdone, and serve with the gravy
+strained all over it. It is then called _au jus_.
+
+_With Spinach._--Prepare and cook the _fricandeau_ as above; and when
+done, put some broth in the pan after having taken off the meat; give
+one boil; turn in the spinach _au jus_; stir on the fire one minute;
+dish the spinach; place the _fricandeau_ on it, and serve.
+
+_With Sorrel._--Proceed as with spinach in every particular, except that
+you serve on sorrel _au jus_ instead of spinach. It makes a more
+delicate dish with sorrel, although excellent with spinach.
+
+It may also be served with green peas _au jus_ or _a l'anglaise_.
+
+_Financiere._--When prepared, cooked, and dished as directed, surround
+it with a _financiere_ garniture, and serve warm.
+
+_Jardiniere._--After being cooked and dished, put a _Macedoine_
+garniture around it, and serve warm.
+
+
+  SHOULDER.
+
+_Boned._--Lay the shoulder on the table, the inside up, split it just in
+the middle, lengthwise, and following the middle of the bones; remove
+the flat bone at the larger end first. Do the same for the remaining
+bone. Then spread the shoulder open, and salt and pepper it. Fill the
+inside with sausage-meat; roll it of a round shape, and when properly
+tied with twine, roast or bake it, as directed for roasted or baked
+veal. It is then dished, decorated, and served in the same and every way
+as directed for roasted pieces of veal.
+
+It is an excellent dish served on either of the following purees:
+_beans_, _celery_, _lentils_, _peas_, _potatoes_, _sorrel_, _spinach_,
+or _tomatoes_.
+
+When served on a _puree_, it may be decorated with skewers, the same as
+when served with a garniture.
+
+It may also be served with a _piquante_ or _poivrade_ sauce.
+
+_Stuffed._--Bone the shoulder as directed above; spread it open, and
+salt and pepper it, also as directed. Spread a coat of sausage-meat on
+it, about one-third of an inch in thickness, then put a layer of salt
+pork on the sausage-meat; then a layer of boiled ham; again a layer of
+sausage-meat; on this a layer of beef or sheep's tongue, boiled. The ham
+and tongue are cut in square fillets, about one-fourth of an inch broad
+and about two inches long. The tongues may be fresh or salted, according
+to taste. When filled, roll it so as to give it a round shape; wrap it
+up in a towel and drop it in boiling water, to which you have added
+salt. Boil gently for about four hours, take the kettle from the fire
+and let cool. When cold take the shoulder off, wipe it dry and serve
+with meat jelly. The jelly is chopped, or cut in fancy shapes, or both.
+Some chopped jelly may be placed all around the meat, and some cut in
+fancy shapes with a paste-cutter or with a knife, and placed over it.
+
+It may also be decorated with skewers, as directed for roasted pieces of
+veal.
+
+_En Bellevue._--When boiled and cold, prepare it like a fillet of _beef
+en Bellevue_, and serve.
+
+
+  LOIN OR LEG STEWED.
+
+Have in a stewpan and on a slow fire three or four tablespoonfuls of
+sweet-oil; when hot put the loin in, turn it over till of a yellow color
+all around, then add a bay-leaf, salt, pepper, and a pint of warm water;
+simmer four hours, and serve with the following sauce, which you must
+have prepared at the same time: Fry in butter till of a golden color ten
+middling-sized onions, then add to them half a glass of claret wine, two
+tablespoonfuls of broth, and two of the juice of the loin, ten mushrooms
+(if handy); simmer till cooked, and strain. Mix the sauce with the juice
+of the loin, and put it on a dish, place the loin upon it, and serve
+with the onions and mushrooms around the meat.
+
+In case the juice of the loin should be found too fat, throw in it (and
+before mixing it with the sauce) a few drops of cold water, and skim off
+the fat.
+
+The only thing to throw away before mixing is the bay-leaf.
+
+_Another way, or prepared with a Garniture of Cabbages._--Put in a
+stewpan and set on a good fire a piece of butter the size of an egg;
+when melted, add four onions and two small carrots, cut in slices; fry
+them two or three minutes, then put the loin in, with half a bay-leaf,
+wet with warm broth; then subdue the fire, let simmer about two hours
+and a half; strain the sauce on a dish, place the meat on it, and serve
+with a garniture of cabbages around.
+
+
+  COLD VEAL.
+
+Cut the meat in slices and serve them on a dish, arranged according to
+fancy, and serve with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, _Mayonnaise_,
+_Provencale_, _ravigote_, or _remolade_ sauce. It may also be decorated
+and served like cold mutton, in _vinaigrette_.
+
+_Another way._--Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan
+and set on a good fire, mix in when melted two teaspoonfuls of flour,
+stir till of a brownish color, when add a saltspoonful of chopped
+parsley, four leaves of tarragon, salt, pepper, and half a pint of broth
+(more or less of the above according to the quantity of meat you have
+left), boil the whole fifteen minutes; then, if what you have left is
+from an entire piece, cut it in slices, lay them in the pan, and serve
+when warm enough, as it is.
+
+If what you have left is in pieces or slices, you merely place them in
+the pan and serve with the sauce when warm.
+
+
+  BRAIN.
+
+_To prepare._--Put the brain in a bowl of cold water and a tablespoonful
+of vinegar and leave it in from one to two or three hours, that is, till
+you are ready to use it, but do not leave it more than five or six hours
+and not less than one hour. Take it off, remove the thin skin and
+blood-vessels that are all around.
+
+_To boil._--When prepared, put the brain in a small saucepan, cover it
+with cold water; add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half an onion
+sliced, three stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, six
+pepper-corns, one clove, salt, boil about five minutes and take off the
+fire. Cut each half of the brain in two, from side to side; place the
+four pieces on a dish, the part cut upward.
+
+_Au Beurre Noir._--When dished as above directed, put two ounces of
+butter in a frying-pan and when melted turn into it two tablespoonfuls
+of vinegar, boil two or three minutes, then throw into it half a dozen
+stalks of parsley, take them off immediately with a skimmer, turn the
+butter and vinegar over the brain; spread the parsley around, and serve.
+
+_Stewed, or in Matelote._--When prepared as directed, put it in a small
+saucepan and cover it with claret wine; add half an onion sliced, one
+clove of garlic, one clove, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, salt, a
+bay-leaf, six pepper-corns, and boil gently for about fifteen minutes.
+Cut and dish it as directed above; turn the sauce over it through a
+strainer and serve--it is understood, the sauce in which it has been
+cooked.
+
+_Fried._--Prepare as directed, cut in about six slices, dip them in
+batter, and fry in hot fat. (_See direction for_ Frying.)
+
+_In Poulette._--Prepare and boil it as directed, split each half of the
+brain in two or four pieces, place them tastefully on a dish, spread a
+_poulette_ sauce all over, and serve warm. It may also be prepared and
+served with a _piquante_ sauce. When the _piquante_ sauce is made, put
+the brain or brains in, boil ten minutes, and serve as it is.
+
+
+  EARS.
+
+They are prepared in every way like calf's head.
+
+
+  FEET.
+
+_To boil._--Throw them in boiling water for five minutes, split them in
+the middle and lengthwise after having taken off the large bone and
+hair, and tie them with a string. Put a piece of butter the size of two
+walnuts in a stewpan and set it on the fire, when melted add a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, half of each, a quarter
+of a lemon cut in slices, salt, and pepper, then the feet; wet with a
+glass of warm water; boil gently two or three hours, take from the fire
+and when nearly cold dip them in bread-crumbs, place them on a gridiron
+and set on a good fire, baste slightly with the juice in which they have
+cooked, and serve with fried parsley around.
+
+_The same, in Poulette._--Prepare and cook them as above. When you take
+them from the fire, instead of dipping them in bread-crumbs, put them in
+a _poulette_ sauce, simmer ten minutes, and serve.
+
+_Fried._--When boiled and drained dry, dip them in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs, fry in hot fat, and serve with green parsley all around.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Boil them as directed and drain them dry. When
+perfectly cold, serve them with a _vinaigrette_.
+
+
+  CALF'S HEAD.
+
+_How to prepare._--When the hair is off and the whole head well cleaned
+(this is generally done by butchers; but if not, throw the head in
+boiling water for five minutes and scrape the hair off with a knife
+immediately after taking it from the water), put it then in cold water
+for twenty-four hours in winter and ten in summer, changing the water
+two or three times.
+
+_To boil._--It may be boiled whole or after it is boned. If boiled
+whole, cut a hole on the top of the head and take off the brain without
+breaking it; put it in cold water immediately and as directed. Then set
+the head on the fire in a saucepan, covered with cold water, salt, one
+onion sliced, half a lemon, four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, two cloves, two cloves of garlic, ten pepper-corns, and two
+tablespoonfuls of vinegar; boil gently till done. Bone it before using
+it.
+
+When boiled after being boned, the brain is taken off in the same way as
+above and put in cold water also; then the tongue is cut out and boiled
+with the skin of the head, etc., with the same seasonings as when boiled
+whole. It is then ready for use, but leave it in the water till wanted;
+it would become tough if exposed to the air.
+
+_In Poulette._--Put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan, set it on
+the fire, when melted turn in one tablespoonful of flour; stir, and as
+soon as it commences to turn yellow add half a pint of broth, stir
+again, and when thickening, add the calf's head cut in rather large
+dice, give one boil, take from the fire, add the yolk of an egg and
+about a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, stir, give another boil, and
+serve.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Leave it in the water till perfectly cold; or, if
+wanted immediately, as soon as boiled, take it off and put in cold water
+to cool, and use. Cut the head in large dice and serve it with oil,
+vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard, and parsley chopped.
+
+_Broiled._--Prepare and boil the calf's head as directed. As soon as
+cool, cut it in about half a dozen pieces, dip them in beaten eggs, roll
+them in bread-crumbs, and broil both sides till turning of a golden
+color; serve warm with a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce, or with anchovy or
+horse-radish butter.
+
+_Fried._--Calf's head may be fried as soon as prepared and boiled; but
+most generally, it is only what has been left from the day before that
+is fried. Cut it in small pieces about two inches square, dip them in
+melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat.
+Serve hot, adding lemon-juice when the pieces of calf's head are on the
+dish.
+
+_En Tortue, or Turtle-like._--There are two ways of preparing calf's
+head en tortue:
+
+1. When it is prepared and boiled as directed above, drain it dry, cut
+it in pieces as for frying it; put them in a saucepan with one ounce of
+butter, set on the fire, stir for two minutes, add nearly a pint of
+Madeira wine, simmer gently for about half an hour; dish the meat, add a
+little lemon-juice all over, and serve warm. Some _quenelles_ of chicken
+may be placed all around, as a decoration; or a garniture of mushrooms.
+
+2. Prepare and boil the calf's head; drain it dry and cut it in pieces
+about two inches square. Dish the pieces either mound-like, or around
+the dish, one lapping over the other, and turn the following over it,
+and serve warm: Put a _financiere_ garniture in a saucepan with a pint
+of Madeira wine, set on the fire and boil gently for about twenty
+minutes; take from the fire, spread over the pieces of calf's head, and
+serve.
+
+Some hard-boiled eggs cut in four or eight pieces, lengthwise, may be
+placed all around the dish; or some pickled cucumbers, cut in fancy
+pieces, or some quenelles of veal or chicken.
+
+
+  HEART.
+
+_To prepare._--Soak it in lukewarm water for about three hours, trim it
+and free it from skin, blood, and small fibres; then drain and wipe it
+dry. Stuff or fill it with sausage-meat, to which you add previously two
+or three onions chopped fine.
+
+_To cook._--When thus prepared, envelop it in buttered paper, set on
+the spit before a good fire, baste often, remove the paper a few minutes
+before taking it from the fire, then serve warm with a _piquante_,
+_poivrade_, or _ravigote_ sauce. It may also be served with a
+_vinaigrette_.
+
+_To bake._--When prepared as directed above, put it in a baking-pan;
+spread a little butter over, put a little water in the bakepan and set
+in a quick oven, baste and turn over two or three times, and when done,
+serve with the gravy and the same sauces as if it were roasted.
+
+_In Gratin._--Soak, drain and wipe it dry as directed.
+
+Cut it in slices and put them in a crockery or other pan; turn a white
+sauce all over, then sprinkle on half a gill of vinegar or the juice of
+a lemon, dust with bread-crumbs, put half a dozen lumps of butter, each
+about the size of a hazelnut, all over; bake in a rather quick oven.
+
+
+  KIDNEYS.
+
+_Saute._--When prepared as directed below, cut it in pieces as directed
+for kidney in _brochettes_. Then put a piece of butter the size of half
+an egg in a frying-pan and set it on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in
+a teaspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon the while, add half
+a wine-glass of white wine, a tablespoonful of broth, a pinch of chopped
+parsley, salt and pepper, boil ten minutes and lay the fillets in; have
+a quick fire, and as soon as cooked dish them, spread the sauce over,
+sprinkle on a few drops of lemon-juice, and serve.
+
+_To prepare._--Never cook a kidney except it be very fresh. Prepare in
+the following way, a beef, sheep, or calf's kidney. Pig's kidneys are
+excellent if they have no disagreeable taste, but it is very often the
+case. The bad taste may be partly taken away by blanching the kidney,
+but it makes it tough and tasteless; it is better to throw it away.
+
+_In Brochettes._--Split the kidney in four lengthwise, and then cut it
+in rather small pieces. Cut fat salt pork in pieces of the same size as
+the pieces of kidney--the fatty part of the kidney must not be
+used--then salt and pepper the pieces of kidney; take a common skewer
+and run it through a piece of kidney, then through a piece of salt pork;
+repeat this till the skewer is full. Fill as many skewers as are
+necessary till the whole kidney is used; and then roast before a good
+fire, basting often with melted butter. Serve warm.
+
+_Another way._--Prepare as above, and instead of roasting, put the
+skewers in a bake-pan, spread a little butter over the kidney and salt
+pork, cover the bottom of the pan only with cold water, and bake. While
+in the oven, turn over and baste occasionally.
+
+Serve as the above, with its gravy, and warm.
+
+_Another._--Skewer the kidney, or rather pieces of kidney and salt pork
+as above; dip them in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry
+them in hot fat. Serve warm, but without gravy.
+
+
+  LIGHTS.
+
+Cut them in four pieces, soak and wash them three or four times in
+lukewarm water, changing the water each time; press them with the hands
+to extract all the blood. Place the lights in a stewpan, cover them with
+cold water, and set on a good fire; boil two minutes, take them off,
+throw them in cold water, and drain them; cut the lights in dice. Have
+butter in a stewpan on the fire, and when melted, lay the lights in, fry
+five minutes, keeping them tossed the while, then sprinkle on a
+tablespoonful of flour, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon; pour
+on, little by little, about a pint of warm broth, also a saltspoonful of
+chopped parsley, a pinch of allspice, salt, pepper, a bay-leaf, and
+sprig of thyme; have a brisk fire, and when about half done, add four or
+five mushrooms, and eight small onions. When the whole is cooked, take
+off bay-leaf and thyme, then take from the fire, beat two yolks of eggs
+with a tablespoonful of vinegar, and mix with the whole, turn on a dish,
+and serve.
+
+
+  CALF'S LIVER.
+
+_How to prepare._--Have water, with a little salt, on the fire, and at
+the first boiling, throw the liver in for about five minutes, and drain
+it.
+
+_How to improve the Liver before cooking it._--Put in a tureen two
+tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a bay-leaf broken in four pieces, two
+sprigs of thyme, four of parsley chopped fine, a green onion also
+chopped fine, salt, and pepper; lay the liver on the whole, and leave it
+from four to six hours, turning it over two or three times.
+
+_How to cook, roasted._--Envelop the liver with buttered paper, place it
+on the spit before a good fire, baste often with the oil from the
+tureen, after having taken off bay-leaf and thyme. A few minutes before
+it is done, take the paper off, baste continually with the drippings
+till well cooked, and serve it with the gravy.
+
+It may also be served with a _piquante_ or _poivrade_ sauce.
+
+It takes from thirty-five to forty-five minutes to roast it.
+
+_The same, saute._--Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and set it
+on a sharp fire; when melted, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and
+green onions, then the liver cut in slices (after having been prepared
+as above); sprinkle on a saltspoonful of flour, then half a wine-glass
+of warm broth, same of claret wine, salt, pepper, and a pinch of
+allspice; serve when done.
+
+It takes only from ten to twelve minutes for the whole process.
+
+_The same, in the Oven._--Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on a
+sharp fire; when hot, put the liver in (after having been boiled as
+directed above, and after having cut it in pieces); fry it five minutes,
+turning over once only; then take from the fire, salt both sides of the
+slices, place them on a warm dish, putting on each slice a little butter
+kneaded with chopped parsley, salt, and pepper; put two or three minutes
+in a warm oven, take off, sprinkle on the whole the juice of half a
+lemon, and serve in the dish in which it has cooked.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Boil the liver as directed above, and when drained
+and cold, lard it well. Have butter in a frying-pan on a brisk fire;
+when hot, put the liver in for about five minutes, turning it over on
+every side. Have in a stewpan four ounces of bacon cut in dice; set it
+on a good fire, and when hot, lay the liver in; then add a glass of warm
+broth, same of white wine, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, two of parsley,
+a clove of garlic, two cloves, and a small carrot cut in two; cover the
+stewpan, subdue the fire, and let simmer three hours; stir now and then,
+place the liver on a dish, strain the sauce on it, and serve.
+
+
+  CALF'S PLUCK.
+
+Put the pluck in cold water for twelve hours in winter and four in
+summer; change the water once, drain, and throw it in boiling water for
+ten or fifteen minutes; take off and throw in cold water to cool, and
+drain it. Cut the pluck in pieces, and cook it like calf's head, and
+serve with the same sauce.
+
+
+  CALF'S TAIL.
+
+Take two tails, cut each in two, throw them in boiling water for three
+minutes, and drain. Cut a cabbage in two, trim off the stump, throw the
+two halves in boiling water, with a little salt, for fifteen minutes,
+and drain it. Put in a tureen the tails, cabbage, six ounces of lean
+bacon, two sprigs of parsley chopped fine, same quantity of green
+onions, two cloves, a little piece of nutmeg, a clove of garlic, salt,
+and pepper; cover the whole with half broth and half water, and boil
+gently till cooked. Then take off cloves, nutmeg, and garlic, turn the
+remainder on a dish, and serve.
+
+
+  TONGUE.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve a calf's tongue, in the same and every way like
+a fresh beef's tongue. The only difference is, that, being smaller, it
+is seldom decorated.
+
+It may be split in two, lengthwise and nearly through, opened and served
+thus, with slices of pickled cucumbers.
+
+
+  SWEETBREADS.
+
+_To prepare._--Soak them in cold water for about an hour. Take off and
+remove the skin and bloody vessels that are all around. For two
+sweetbreads set about one pint of water on the fire in a small saucepan
+with salt, a tablespoonful of vinegar, a few slices of onion, six
+pepper-corns, a clove of garlic, two cloves, six sprigs of parsley, one
+of thyme, and a bay-leaf; boil two minutes, drop the sweetbreads in,
+boil one minute and take them off. Drop them immediately in cold water
+and leave them in for from two minutes to an hour. Put them on a flat
+surface with a board over, and leave them thus till they are perfectly
+cold and rather flattened.
+
+_Au Jus._--Trim them a little, so as to give them a better appearance.
+Lard the top or smooth side, then butter the bottom of a pan, spread a
+few slices of onion on the butter; add a bay-leaf, a clove, two stalks
+of parsley; place the sweetbreads on the whole, the larded side up,
+cover the pan and set on a good fire, or in a rather warm oven; about
+ten minutes after, add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, baste now
+and then till done. If the broth is absorbed before the sweetbreads are
+done, add some more. Dish the sweetbreads, turn the gravy over them
+through a strainer, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Prepare as above directed; then, instead of larding it,
+you knead well together two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of shallots
+and parsley well chopped, half a clove of garlic, salt, and pepper;
+place the whole in a stewpan, with the sweetbreads on it, and thin
+slices of bacon on the sweetbreads; set the pan on a good fire, and add
+then half a glass of broth, same of white wine; simmer till cooked; dish
+the sweetbreads, throw a few drops of cold water in the sauce, skim off
+the fat, strain the sauce on the sweetbreads, and serve.
+
+When the sweetbreads _au jus_ are dished as directed, place tastefully,
+all around, either of the following garnitures: _cauliflower_,
+_chicken-combs_, _duxelle_, _financiere_, _mushrooms_, _liver_,
+_Macedoine_, _quenelles_, and _truffles_. Besides these garnitures, the
+sweetbreads may be decorated with small skewers, run through a boiled
+_craw-fish_ and a small _quenelle_ of chicken or of veal. One or two
+skewers may be stuck in each sweetbread.
+
+The sweetbreads, when several are served at a time, may be placed on the
+dish, either around it, forming a kind of crown, or forming a pyramid,
+or in any other way, according to fancy. They may also be served with a
+sauce _fines herbes_.
+
+
+
+
+  PORK.
+
+  TO SELECT.
+
+
+When the rind is tender and thin, the pork is young; when thick and
+hard, it is old.
+
+To be good, the meat must be soft, and have a fresh and good appearance.
+
+We do not think it necessary to indicate here how to make black
+puddings, chitterlings, Bologna, and other sausages. It is nearly, if
+not quite impossible, for a person having no practice in it, to make
+them edible; it is better to buy them ready made at pork-butchers'
+shops, or to hire an experienced person to make them.
+
+
+  CHINE AND FILLET.
+
+Take a good chine of pork, place it on the spit before a sharp fire,
+baste often with a little melted butter first, and then with the
+drippings; when properly cooked, serve it with a _vinaigrette_,
+_Robert_, _piquante_, or _poivrade_ sauce. It will take from two to
+three or four hours to roast, according to the size of the chine.
+
+
+  HOW TO IMPROVE THE CHINE OF PORK.
+
+Place it in a crockery vessel, pour on it two tablespoonfuls of
+sweet-oil, then sprinkle on two teaspoonfuls or chopped parsley, also
+salt and pepper, two onions chopped fine, four cloves, and two
+bay-leaves; leave thus twenty-four hours in winter, and ten in summer,
+turning over two or three times. The taste of the meat is much improved
+by that process. The oil may be used for basting instead of butter.
+
+_Baked._--Put the chine in a bakepan, sprinkle salt over it, coyer the
+bottom of the pan with cold water, and put in a rather quick oven, baste
+often, and in case there should be much fat in the pan, take it off and
+add a little cold water.
+
+When overdone, serve with any of the following _purees_: beans, lentils,
+Lima beans, onions, peas, potatoes, sorrel, or spinach.
+
+It may also be served with the following sauces: _fines herbes_,
+_piquante_, _poivrade_, _Provencale_, _ravigote_, _remolade_, _Robert_,
+_tarragon_, _Tartar_, and _vinaigrette_.
+
+It is served also with a tomato-sauce. Make more sauce for pork than for
+other dishes, and make the tomato-sauce rather thick by boiling it
+gently for some time; it tastes better so with pork.
+
+Always use mustard with pork, if you like it. Horse-radish, also, is
+good with it.
+
+
+  CUTLETS.
+
+Flatten the cutlets with a chopper (they may be improved in the same way
+as the chine), place them on the gridiron and set on a sharp fire; turn
+over two or three times, and when properly done, serve them with a
+_piquante_, _Robert_, or tomato-sauce, adding to them some slices of
+pickled cucumbers just before serving.
+
+_The same, sautees._--Instead of broiling them, when prepared as above,
+place them in a frying-pan with a little butter, turn over two or three
+times during the cooking, and serve as the above, or on a _puree_ of
+sorrel.
+
+
+  LEG, ROASTED.
+
+_How to improve it._--Take the skin or rind gently off, put the leg in a
+crockery vessel, pour on it the following mixture: a pint of white wine,
+two tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a bunch of sage, salt, pepper, and a
+pinch of grated nutmeg. Leave it thus two days in winter and one in
+summer, turning it over two or three times during the process.
+
+Place the leg on the spit and put before a very sharp fire, baste often
+with the mixture from the crockery vessel, or with melted butter, and
+serve when cooked, with the gravy strained. It will take about two or
+two and a half hours to roast it.
+
+_Baked._--Bake and serve the leg in the same and every way as the chine,
+with _purees_ and sauces. Any part of pork is prepared like chine.
+
+_Ham in hors-d'oeuvre._--Cut the ham in small and thin slices, place the
+slices tastefully on a dish, either overlapping or in pyramid, or in any
+other fancy way, and serve with parsley in the middle or around. Slices
+of lemon may also be served with it, either with the parsley or without
+it.
+
+
+  HAM.
+
+_To boil._--Sugar-cured are preferred to others.
+
+Scrape off the outside gently, soak in cold water for from six to
+twenty-four hours, take off and wipe dry.
+
+Envelop it in a towel and tie it. Place it in a kettle large enough to
+hold it without bending it; cover with cold water; season with six small
+onions, two carrots, four cloves, two bay-leaves, a handful or two
+plants of parsley, two or three stalks of thyme, two of celery, two
+cloves of garlic (a handful of hay and half a bottle of white wine, if
+handy would improve the taste); boil gently for four or five hours,
+according to the size (four hours for a ten-pound one, five for a
+fifteen-pound one). Pay no attention to the old saying that "it takes
+half an hour to every pound."
+
+Take from the fire, remove the towel, break off and remove the small
+bone at the larger end of it, and without tearing the meat. Remove the
+rind also, leaving only about two inches of it near the smaller end,
+cutting it so that it will be dentilated.
+
+_To decorate._--It is decorated in several ways, according to taste and
+fancy. If the fat is not white after having removed the rind, spread a
+very thin coat of lard over it, place the ham on a dish, the fatty side
+up. Cut carrots, turnips, and beets, boiled tender, in fancy shapes,
+with paste-cutters or with a knife; place them tastefully all over the
+ham; place also all over it some parsley, capers, and olives. Chop some
+meat-jelly and put it all around the dish, and serve. In carving it,
+scrape back the lard and vegetables, slice, and serve.
+
+_Another._--When boiled, trimmed, and the rind removed, put it in the
+oven for about twenty minutes, basting the while with a Madeira sauce.
+Serve with the sauce. Any kind of _puree_ may be served with it.
+
+_Another._--When trimmed and soaked in water as directed, boil it with
+half wine and half water: the same seasonings as when boiled in water.
+Use either Catawba, Sauterne, or Rhine wine. It makes it more expensive,
+but it is excellent. It is served as when boiled in water.
+
+_Another._--Boil it in claret wine, and when trimmed and decorated,
+serve it with a mushroom or a _truffle_ sauce.
+
+_Another._--Boil, trim, and cut off the rind as described in the above
+cases; place the frill, and serve with _spinach au beurre._
+
+[Illustration: A, skewers; B, carrot; C, truffle or mushroom; D, jelly;
+E, frill.]
+
+_Another._--Boil and trim the ham as above, cut the rind in the same
+way. What is left of the rind is cut as seen in the cut opposite: that
+is, some small square pieces are cut off, from place to place, so that
+it resembles a checkerboard; stick two or more skewers in it, glaze it
+with essence of beef or with sugar, and serve either on a tomato-sauce
+or on _peas a l'Anglaise_.
+
+_Ham English fashion._--Soak it in water and trim it as directed. Make
+some paste with water and flour only; spread a coat of this paste all
+over the ham, and then envelop it in buttered or oiled paper. Put it on
+the spit and baste with fat while it is roasting. Roast it for three or
+three and a half hours, according to size; remove the paper about two
+hours after it has been taken from the fire; cut a hole in the paste
+about an inch in diameter and on the lean side; pour into it, little by
+little, half a pint of good Madeira wine, cover the hole with some
+paste, placing a band of paper on it to prevent it from falling; put
+the ham back on the spit for about twenty minutes, and serve whole with
+Madeira sauce. We mean, by serving whole, with the paste around it, but
+not the paper.
+
+Besides the sauce, some green vegetables, boiled only, are served on
+separate dishes, but eaten with the ham.
+
+It is also served like game, with currant-jelly, apple-sauce, etc.
+
+_Champagne Sauce._--Proceed as for the above in every particular, except
+that you use Champagne instead of Madeira wine, and when done serve it
+with a Champagne sauce.
+
+_Another._--It may be boiled as directed above, and served with a
+Champagne sauce also.
+
+_Another._--When soaked and dry, put it in a crockery vessel; put on and
+all around it four onions chopped fine, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of
+thyme, a piece of nutmeg, and pour on the whole a bottle of white wine;
+cover the vessel as nearly air-tight as possible, leave it thus for
+about twenty-four hours, turning it over two or three times, so as to
+let every side take the seasonings. Place the ham on the spit before a
+good fire, baste often with the seasonings from the crockery vessel, and
+when done take it off, dust it with fine raspings of bread, place it
+fifteen minutes in a slow oven, strain the drippings, boil them till
+reduced to a proper thickness, dish the ham, pour the drippings on it,
+and serve.
+
+
+  SALTED PORK.
+
+The best and only proper way to cook salted pork, is, to put it in a
+kettle, entirely cover it with cold water, boil gently till cooked, and
+serve it with a _puree_ or with a garniture of cabbage. Any thing else
+that you might put with it would rather spoil than better it.
+
+
+  PIG'S EARS.
+
+_How to prepare._--Soak them in warm water for a few minutes, then wash
+and clean them well, and scrape the hair off, if any.
+
+_Boiled._--When prepared, you throw them in boiling water for two
+minutes and take from the fire; add four onions for four ears, one
+carrot, salt and pepper; leave just water enough to cover the whole, and
+when cooked, drain. Serve them on a _puree_ of beans or of lentils.
+
+_The same, broiled._--When cleaned, prepared, and cooked as above, just
+dip them in beaten eggs, roll them in bread-crumbs, place on the
+gridiron and on the fire, broil for about two or three minutes; then
+serve them with a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce.
+
+
+  PIG'S FEET.
+
+_Broiled, or a la Sainte Menehould._--Split six feet in two, lengthwise,
+and soak them in tepid water for ten minutes, then envelop each in a
+piece of linen well tied or sewed; place them in a kettle or stewpan
+with four small onions, four sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, two of
+sweet basil, two bay-leaves, two cloves of garlic, two cloves, two small
+carrots cut in pieces, salt, pepper, and half a pint of white wine;
+cover with cold water, simmer about six hours, skim them properly, fill
+with boiling water so as to have them covered all the time; take from
+the fire when cooked, and when nearly cool take the feet from the
+kettle, untie them, throw away the linen, and let them cool. Dip each in
+melted butter or in sweet-oil, roll in bread-crumbs, and place on a
+gridiron and on a good fire; serve them as they are, when properly
+broiled.
+
+_Stuffed._--Prepare the feet and cook them as above. When perfectly
+cold, remove the long bone of each half, fill the place with
+sausage-meat; dip each in melted butter and yolk of egg, mixed and
+seasoned with salt and pepper, roll in bread-crumbs, and broil. While
+they are broiling, baste them with melted butter. Serve as they are, or
+with meat-jelly, or gravy.
+
+_Stuffed with Truffles._--Proceed as with the above in every particular,
+so far as removing the long bone of each half, so as to be ready for
+stuffing them.
+
+Cut truffles in small dice, enough to half fill the feet, and put them
+on the fire in a small saucepan, just covered with Madeira wine; toss
+and stir till the wine is absorbed and nearly boiled away, then add a
+little gravy, stir half a minute, take from the fire and let cool. When
+cold, fill each half foot till half full, and finish with sausage-meat;
+then dip in butter and egg, roll in crumbs, broil and serve as the
+above.
+
+They may be filled with truffles only, and served with meat-jelly.
+
+
+  PIG'S HEAD.
+
+Soak in water and clean it well; take all the bones and flesh out; then
+cut the flesh and about one pound of salt pork in strips, which you put
+inside of the head, well mixed with salt, pepper, half a dozen
+middling-sized onions chopped, two teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, half
+a saltspoonful of allspice, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, a
+little sage, and the juice of half a lemon; lay it in a crockery vessel
+for from four to six days. Envelop the head in a towel, place it in a
+kettle with eight small onions, two carrots cut in pieces, salt, pepper,
+four sprigs of parsley, four of thyme, four bay-leaves, two cloves, and
+a pint of white wine; cover with water, set on the fire, and simmer from
+six to eight hours; take from the fire and drain, take the towel off
+and drain again till dry and cold. Serve it with sprigs of green parsley
+around.
+
+_Wild-Boar like_.--Prepare, stuff, cook, and allow it to cool as the one
+preceding; then place it on an oval dish, the ears up, with one or two
+skewers to hold them in place, and also two or three decorated skewers
+in the middle of the head and between the eyes--not across, but
+lengthwise. Glaze it with essence of beef, by means of a brush; make
+eyes with meat-jelly, which you cut with a vegetable spoon, and imitate
+the tongue, teeth, and tusks with butter colored with cochineal and
+kneaded with flour. Cover the back part with jelly and skewers
+ornamented with flowers or slices of truffles, or with both. Some jelly,
+chopped, may also be placed all around, and flowers in the ears and on
+the eyes. It is served as an _entree_, or for supper, lunch, or
+breakfast.
+
+
+  PIG'S KIDNEYS.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve like calf's kidneys.
+
+
+  PIG'S TAIL.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve like pig's ears.
+
+
+  PIG'S TONGUE.
+
+Prepare, cook, and serve like beef tongue.
+
+_Head-cheese_.--Soak a pig's head in cold water for two or three hours,
+clean, and then cut the whole of it, ears and tongue included, in strips
+one or two inches long, and then put the whole with about two pounds of
+salt pork, cut in strips also, in a crockery bowl, season with salt,
+pepper, chopped onion, chopped parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and sage,
+chopped also, the juice of a lemon, and leave thus for about two or
+three days, turning it over occasionally. Then put the mixture in a
+mould or wrap it in a towel and boil till done. It must be immersed in
+the water.
+
+Some beet or sheep's tongue, together with the flesh of chicken, may be
+added to the head.
+
+When cooked and cold, if there are any empty places, they may be filled
+with meat-jelly.
+
+It is served at late suppers, or at lunch and breakfast. It is always
+served cold, with parsley around.
+
+
+  SUCKING-PIG.
+
+A sucking-pig, to be good, must be fat.
+
+Then properly cleaned, and hoofs off, clean the inside, leaving the
+kidneys; skewer it, put in it half a pound of butter kneaded with
+chopped parsley and green onions, four or five mushrooms, and two white
+onions with a clove stuck in each; place it on the spit before a good
+fire, baste often with melted butter first, and then with the drippings,
+and when done serve on a _vinaigrette_.
+
+Some truffles may be added to the seasoning, if handy; it gives it a
+good taste.
+
+_Baked_.--Stuff it as the above, place it in a baking-pan with just cold
+water enough to cover the bottom of the pan; put it in a quick oven,
+baste often, and when done serve with a _remolade_ or _vinaigrette_
+sauce.
+
+When roasted or baked, place it on a dish with slices of truffles,
+mushrooms, and parsley all around. Run some skewers through slices or
+truffles and whole mushrooms, and plant them in it like the one
+represented in the cut on the following page.
+
+A small red apple is placed in the mouth after it is cooked, to make
+room for which a stone is placed in the mouth before cooking it, in
+order to keep the mouth open. It is served as warm as possible.
+
+[Illustration: A, skewer; B, slices of truffles; C, mushrooms]
+
+_Boned_.--A sucking-pig can be boned and filled just the same as a
+turkey, and cooked and served alike also.
+
+
+
+
+  POULTRY.
+
+
+Chickens, ducks, turkeys, and geese must be killed not less than
+twenty-four hours, and not more than three days in summer, nor less than
+two days nor more than six days in winter, before cooking them.
+
+
+  HOW TO PREPARE AND CLEAN.
+
+To transport poultry, _see_ Game.
+
+Poulterers are of the opinion that the best and quickest way of killing
+poultry is by cutting the throat or the tongue. Tie the legs of the
+bird, hang it by the legs, then kill and let bleed. Some cut the head
+off and throw it away on the ground, but the poor things do not die so
+fast, and therefore suffer more.
+
+As soon as the throat or tongue is cut, if the head is held down the
+bird dies sooner, as it allows the blood to run more freely, preventing
+the bird from bending and twisting its neck, and also from swallowing
+its blood.
+
+It is much better to pick the bird dry. By scalding, the skin is
+spoiled, and very often the flesh of a young and tender chicken is
+spoiled also, being blanched. When picked, singe the bird carefully, in
+order not to burn the skin.
+
+Split the skin on the back of the neck, from the body to near the head;
+then detach the skin from the neck by pulling it downward and the neck
+upward; it gives you plenty of room to pull the crop out, which you do.
+Cut the skin off at about the middle of the neck, and the neck close to
+the body; that part of the skin of the neck is left to cover the place
+where the neck was cut off, by turning it on the back of the bird, and
+holding it with twine in trussing.
+
+Make an incision under the rump, lengthwise, and large enough to draw
+the bird easily.
+
+When drawn, wipe the inside of the bird with a towel, but do not wash
+it, except when you have broken the gall-bladder. If that should happen,
+cut the bird in pieces immediately and wash well in lukewarm water;
+never roast or prepare whole a bird that has had the gall-bladder broken
+in it in drawing it. _Saute_ it or prepare it in fricassee.
+
+If there should be any thing unclean on the outside, wipe it off, if
+possible, or otherwise cut the place off, or wash only the unclean
+place. A washed bird is a very inferior article. If you see that a bird
+cannot be cleansed properly except by washing it, do not buy it.
+
+
+  CHICKEN.
+
+_To select._--Buy a chicken with white flesh and pale-yellow fat. If
+young, the cock has small spurs, the hen has the lower part of the legs
+and feet rather soft and smooth; those parts are rough in old ones.
+
+If the rump is hard and stiff, they are fresh enough; but if soft, it is
+necessary to examine the bird carefully; it might be tainted.
+
+_To truss._--When prepared as directed for poultry, put the bird on the
+table on its back, and with a chopper or with a round stick flatten the
+breast-bone, which you break at a single blow if possible; the bird is
+much more sightly when served. Cut the legs off just above the first
+joint, or cut off only half of the claws and trim off the ends of the
+wings. Place the bird on a table, the breast up and the rump toward you.
+Push the legs under the skin, so that, by holding them perpendicularly
+and pressing on them, the part from the second to the third joint is
+alongside the chicken, or horizontally. Then run a trussing-needle, with
+twine attached to it, just above the bone of the leg, as near the second
+joint as possible, on the side (toward you) of the bone of the leg that
+is perpendicular, through the leg (which leg is the left one of the
+bird), body, and also through the bird, and at the same place, that is,
+as near the second joint as possible. Turn the bird upside down and the
+neck toward you; turn the ends of the wings on the back, as seen in the
+cut (p. 240), turn the skin of the neck on the back also, between or
+under the wings and in order to cover the place where the neck has been
+cut off, then run the needle again through the right wing, the skin of
+the neck and part of the body, and through the other wing. Tie the ends
+of the twine fast together.
+
+As it is, the legs of the bird, when on its back, are pointing upward.
+Bend them gently down till they are perpendicular and as seen in the
+cut, run the trussing-needle through both and also through the body,
+above the bones of the legs and under the end of the breast-bone; run it
+again the other way, but under the bones of the legs, tie the two ends
+of the twine together, and you have a bird trussed exactly like the one
+represented in the cut on next page.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Another way to truss is, to cut only half of the claws, instead of
+cutting the legs at the first joint; but, to truss thus, the first joint
+must be partly cut as represented below. If the nerve were not cut, it
+would contract in cooking, and instead of being straight, the legs would
+point upward.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+A bird stuffed is trussed exactly in the same way as above, with the
+exception that the skin of the neck must be sewed up with a
+trussing-needle before commencing to truss the legs, and the incision
+must also be sewed up as soon as filled and before trussing.
+
+The twine used to sew and truss the bird is removed just before dishing
+it.
+
+Some experiments have been made lately, in France, to find out the best
+way to kill chickens and make them tender. Those killed by electricity
+were more tender than any other, but they must be cooked immediately, as
+they become tainted in a very short time.
+
+_To blanch._--When cut in pieces as directed, throw it in boiling water
+to which a little salt has been added; boil two minutes and drain.
+
+_To cut._--To make a chicken _saute_ or in fricassee, it is generally
+cut into eight pieces; the two legs, the wings, one piece of the
+breast-bone, and three pieces of the back-bone. The ends of the wings,
+the lower part of the legs after being skinned by warming them, the
+neck, gizzard, heart, kidneys, and head, are put in the soup-kettle.
+Generally the bones of the legs above the second joint are removed by
+breaking them with the back of a knife just above the second joint. The
+ends of the small bones of the three pieces of the back-bone are trimmed
+off also.
+
+_To dish and serve._--Dish the pieces in the following order: the neck,
+gizzard, the fore part of the back and the low part of the legs in the
+middle; then one leg on each side of the dish, with one wing beside
+each, then the breast and hind part of the back, and lastly the ends of
+the wings at the top. If cut in eight pieces only, place the breast-bone
+on the middle of the dish, the hind part of the back-bone at one end of
+it and the two others at the other end; the legs and wings on each side.
+
+_Boiled._--A chicken is boiled only when it is an old one, whose
+tenderness is doubtful, and which is not needed to make broth or
+_consomme_.
+
+Clean, prepare, and truss it as directed for poultry. Brown the bird in
+a saucepan with about one ounce of butter, then half cover it with cold
+water; season with a few slices of onion, same of carrot, two cloves,
+two stalks of parsley, salt and pepper. Boil gently about one hour and a
+half, and when done, dish the bird, strain the sauce over it, and serve
+warm.
+
+If the sauce boils away, add a little cold water; and if there is any
+fat on it, skim it off.
+
+An old chicken may be cooked especially to make a salad.
+
+_Boned._--Pick, bone, fill, cook, and serve a boned chicken exactly like
+a boned turkey; the only difference is, that it requires less filling,
+being smaller.
+
+For an extra, legs of large chickens may be boned and filled like the
+chicken, the rest being used for a fricassee.
+
+_Broiled._--Young, or what are called _spring chickens_, are broiled; an
+old one would not be as good.
+
+To broil, a chicken is split in two lengthwise, or the back only is
+split, so as to open it. Salt both sides and butter them slightly, then
+broil on a good but not sharp fire. Serve with a _maitre-d'hotel_,
+_piquante_, or _ravigote_ sauce.
+
+_Broiled hunter-like._--When cleaned and prepared, split the chicken in
+two lengthwise and place it in a crockery dish with the following
+seasonings: a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, a middling-sized
+onion in slices, two cloves, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of sweet-oil,
+and the juice of half a lemon. Half an hour after turn the chicken over,
+and after another half hour place the above seasonings all around the
+chicken, fasten them with paper, tie the paper with twine, and broil
+carefully on a rather slow fire, and turning over two or three times.
+When done, remove the paper in which they are enveloped, scrape off the
+slices without scratching the meat, and serve as warm as possible with a
+_maitre-d'hotel_, _ravigote_, or _Madeira_ sauce.
+
+When an older chicken is prepared hunter-like, it is generally served
+with a _Tartar_ sauce.
+
+_Another way._--Clean and prepare a chicken as directed. Cut the neck
+off, also the legs at the first joint, split the breast in two so as to
+open the chicken, and flatten it with a chopper. Put about two ounces of
+butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire; when melted, add a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, stir for half a minute with a wooden
+spoon, then put the chicken in with salt and pepper; when about half
+fried on one side, turn it over and half fry the other side; then take
+off the chicken, roll it in chopped parsley and bread-crumbs mixed
+together, broil it properly and serve on a _Tartar_ sauce.
+
+A chicken broiled either way above described may also be served on a
+_Bechamel_ or on a _cream_ sauce.
+
+_Croquettes._--The proportions that we give below are for half a
+middling-sized chicken.
+
+A chicken may be cooked especially to make _croquettes_, but it is
+generally made with cold meat.
+
+Chop the meat fine. Chop fine also half a middling-sized onion; fry it
+with one ounce of butter, then add half a tablespoonful of flour, stir
+for half a minute, then add also the chopped meat and a little over a
+gill of broth, salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, stir for about two
+minutes, take from the fire, mix two yolks of eggs with it, put back on
+the fire for one minute, stirring the while; lastly you add four
+mushrooms chopped, or two truffles, chopped also, or both, according to
+taste; do not put back on the fire, but turn the mixture into a dish,
+spread it and put it away to cool.
+
+When perfectly cold, mix it well, as the upper part is more dry than the
+rest; put it in parts on the paste-board, about a tablespoonful for each
+part. Have bread-crumbs on the paste-board, roll each part of the shape
+you wish; either round like a small sausage, or flat, or of a
+chop-shape; then dip each _croquette_ or part in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs again, and fry in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.)
+
+The best way to shape them, is to roll each part round first with a few
+bread-crumbs, then with a knife smooth both ends, while with the left
+hand you roll them gently, and if wanted flat, strike gently on them
+with the blade of a knife. If wanted of a chop-shape, when flat, shape
+with the hands and strike again to flatten them.
+
+_Croquettes_ are made with any kind of cold meat.
+
+_In Fricassee._--Clean, prepare, and cut as directed. If the flesh is
+not white, blanch it. Put it in a saucepan, cover it with broth or cold
+water (broth is better than water), set it on the fire, and add one
+onion whole, and if covered with water, add also a bunch of seasonings,
+composed of three stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and one
+clove, boil gently till done. Put about two ounces of butter in a
+saucepan with one tablespoonful of flour, set on the fire, stir and mix
+while the butter is melting; then turn the broth or water in which the
+chicken has been cooked into this pan through a strainer, add salt, six
+mushrooms sliced, then the pieces of chicken; give one boil, dish the
+pieces as directed, mix a yolk of egg in the sauce, turn it over the
+chicken, and serve with or without a border of paste.
+
+_Border of Paste._--Knead well together, so as to make a rather thick
+paste, two whites of eggs with flour; spread it with a rolling-pin in a
+long strip about two inches and a half broad and one-fifth of an inch
+thick. Trim the sides if not straight; cut three rows of holes in the
+middle with a fruit-corer, then cut the strip of paste in two,
+lengthwise and in the middle of the middle row of holes. Cut it again
+across in pieces about three or four inches long. Put it in a warm place
+to dry till hard enough to keep in shape and still be pliable; warm the
+dish on which you wish to place it; beat the white of an egg just a
+little with a pinch of sugar, glaze the straight side of the paste with
+it; place it all around and on the border of the dish with the
+dentilated side up. Place the pieces of chicken inside of the border as
+directed above, and serve.
+
+The cut below represents the border. One, _a_, is the border before
+being cut in two, and _b_ when cut.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+It may seem difficult to place the border at first, but it will be
+easily done after having tried once or twice, and following the
+directions previously given. It is better to try when not in a hurry and
+before being wanted; that is, before you wish to serve it. The border
+may be made and placed on a dish without a chicken, it will be better
+for an experiment.
+
+_In Fricassee a la chevaliere or Parisienne._--While the chicken is
+cooking as directed for _fricassee_, prepare a garniture of
+_chicken-combs_, and, when the chicken is dished, place the garniture
+all around it, and serve warm.
+
+_A la Francaise._--While the _fricassee_ is being made, prepare a
+_garniture_ of mushrooms or one of truffles, or both.
+
+Dish the chicken as directed, place a garniture of _mushrooms_ or one of
+_truffles_, or both, tastefully all around, and serve warm.
+
+When a _fricassee_ is made for several persons, with two, three, four,
+or more chickens, three garnitures may be placed around the same dish,
+and, when carefully and tastefully arranged, it makes a sightly one.
+
+The three garnitures are, generally, of _chicken-combs_, _mushrooms_,
+and _truffles_; they may be also of _chicken-combs_, _quenelles_ of
+chicken, and _croutons_; or, of _financiere_, _truffles_, and
+_chicken-combs_; or a boiled _craw-fish_ here and there, and two of any
+of the above-mentioned garnitures.
+
+Instead of a garniture, it may be served with a border of rice. (_See_
+Rice in Border.)
+
+_A la financiere._--This is a _fricassee_ of chicken served with a
+_financiere_ garniture.
+
+_Au supreme._--Chicken, or rather chickens, _au supreme_ is a
+_fricassee_ made with the breasts of chickens only. Each side of the
+breast-bone is carefully detached in two long pieces called _fillets_;
+so that, with two chickens, there are eight pieces.
+
+To detach them properly, split the skin right on the breast-bone from
+the neck to the rump, then pull it off on both sides so as to have the
+whole breast skinned. Take hold of one wing with the left hand, and,
+with a sharp knife in the right, split or cut the joint off carefully,
+we mean the third joint of the wing, or that near the body; as soon as
+the joint is cut, by merely raising the back of the knife, leaving the
+edge on the cut joint and pressing gently on the chicken, you easily
+pull off the larger part of the half breast; detach the end of the other
+half with the point of the knife and pull it off also.
+
+Do the same for the other side.
+
+When the breasts or fillets are thus detached, prepare them as chicken
+in _fricassee_, and serve with a border of paste, or with one of rice,
+as directed in the receipts above, and serve warm.
+
+What is left of the chickens is put in the broth-kettle, or used to make
+_consomme_.
+
+_Another supreme._--Detach the breasts of two chickens as above
+directed, then prepare the eight pieces or fillets as directed for
+chicken _saute_. Ten minutes before taking from the fire, add and mix
+with the whole two or three truffles, weighing at least six ounces, and
+sliced; finish the cooling, and serve.
+
+_To serve._--Dish the pieces tastefully and according to fancy, and put
+the dish away in a warm place, then mix a _supreme_ sauce with what you
+have left in the pan, sauce, truffles, etc., boil the whole till rather
+thick, stirring continually while it is boiling, turn over the pieces of
+chicken, and serve. The _supreme_ sauce used in that case is generally
+made with very rich chicken gravy.
+
+Chickens _au supreme_ is considered a very _recherche_ dish, and it is a
+rather expensive one. For a grand dinner, the breasts of six chickens
+are used, and all the other parts of the chicken are used to make
+chicken gravy with rich broth, and that gravy is, in its turn, used to
+make the _supreme_ sauce that is mixed with the liquor in which the
+chicken has cooked.
+
+The broth used to _saute_ the chicken is generally rich, and very often
+two pounds of truffles are used with six chickens.
+
+_A la Bourguignonne._--This is a _fricassee_ also, but instead of
+covering the chicken with broth or water, it is covered with white wine.
+
+Proceed, for the rest, and serve as _fricassee_.
+
+_With Carrots._--While you are cooking a chicken in _fricassee_, prepare
+a dish of carrots _au jus_ or _glazed_, for ornamenting the dish; cut
+the carrots with a vegetable spoon before cooking them.
+
+Dish the chicken as directed, place the carrots tastefully all around
+the meat, and serve warm. This dish was devised by a monk, and is often
+called _a la Saint Lambert_.
+
+_A la Royale._--This is nearly the same as _au supreme_; the only
+difference is, that the pieces of breast or fillets are larded with salt
+pork, and then cooked, served and decorated the same as described for
+_au supreme_.
+
+_Marengo._--Clean, prepare, and cut up the chicken as for _fricassee_.
+Put in a stewpan five teaspoonfuls of sweet-oil, and set on a good fire;
+when hot, put the chicken in with salt and pepper; turn over once in a
+while, till every piece is of a golden color, and nearly cooked, then
+add two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and one clove, tied
+together with twine; add also three or four mushrooms cut in slices, and
+if handy three or four truffles also cut in slices; when the whole is
+cooked, dish the pieces of chicken thus: the neck and gizzard, with the
+fore part of the back, and the low part of the legs in the middle, one
+leg on each side of the dish with one wing beside each, then the breast
+and hind part of the back, and the ends of the wings at the top. Have an
+Italian sauce ready, pour it on the chicken, place on the whole the
+pieces of mushrooms and truffles, also some _croutons_ fried in butter,
+and serve.
+
+_With Green Peas._--Clean, prepare, and truss the bird as directed for
+poultry, then cook it whole as a stewed chicken above. When done, dish
+the chicken, place peas _a l'Anglaise_ all around, strain the sauce over
+the whole, and serve.
+
+_Larded with Truffles._--Clean, prepare, and truss a fat chicken. Make
+about two dozen small pegs, with truffles, about half an inch long and
+one-eighth of an inch in diameter. Take a skewer, make a hole in the
+flesh of the breast of the chicken, and put a truffle-peg into it. Put a
+dozen pegs in the same way on each side of the breast-bone, and cook and
+serve the chicken. It is either boiled, stewed, or roasted, and served
+as directed for either.
+
+_With Tarragon._--Proceed as for a stewed chicken, with the exception
+that it is cooked whole after being trussed as directed for poultry, and
+after having stuffed it with two ounces of butter kneaded with half a
+dozen stalks of tarragon chopped fine. Serve with a few stalks of
+tarragon around the dish.
+
+_Roasted._--Clean, prepare, and truss the chicken as directed. Place it
+on the spit slightly salted and buttered all around, or envelop it in
+buttered paper, or merely cover the breast with thin slices of salt pork
+tied with twine. Baste often, at first with melted butter, and then with
+the drippings.
+
+If the bird has been enveloped with paper, the latter must be removed
+about ten minutes before taking the chicken from the fire; do the same
+with the slices of salt pork.
+
+It takes from twenty-five minutes to one hour to roast a chicken, with a
+good fire. The time depends as much on the quality of the bird as on the
+size. With a skewer or a small knife, or merely by pressing on it with
+the fingers, anyone can learn how to tell when done, after having
+roasted only two or three. Even by the look of it, many persons can
+tell.
+
+_With Water-cress._--Dish the chicken when roasted, put fresh
+water-cress all around, remove the fat from the gravy, which you turn
+over the whole; add salt and pepper to taste, a little vinegar or
+lemon-juice, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sauces._--When roasted, serve with the following sauces:
+_soubise_, _tarragon_, _oyster_, _tomato_, and _Provencale_.
+
+_With Garnitures._--Dish the bird when roasted as directed, and place
+one of the following garnitures around, and serve warm: _quenelles_ of
+chicken or of veal, _Macedoine_, and _cauliflowers_.
+
+_With Macaroni._--Spread four ounces of macaroni _au jus_ on a dish,
+place the roasted chicken on it, and serve the whole warm.
+
+_With Butter._--It may be served with its gravy and craw-fish or
+lobster-butter.
+
+_With Chestnuts._--When dished, surround the chicken with chestnuts
+glazed, and serve.
+
+_With Pigeons._--Dish the bird, place four roasted pigeons around, one
+at each end and one on each side; fill the intervals with green peas au
+jus, and serve warm.
+
+All the above may be decorated with skewers. Run the skewer in a
+_chestnut_ and then in a _craw-fish_; or, in a _quenelle_ and then in a
+_chestnut_ or _craw-fish_; or, in a _chicken-comb_, and in a _quenelle_,
+and stick it on the chicken. Two skewers only for a chicken make a fine
+decoration. Slices of _truffles_, of _mushrooms_, and _chicken-combs_,
+make fine as well as delicious decorations.
+
+_Baked._--Put the chicken in a baking-pan, after being cleaned,
+prepared, and trussed. Salt and butter the breast, which must be upward,
+place a piece of buttered paper on it, and a little cold water in the
+bakepan. Set it in a warm, but not too quick oven; baste often with the
+liquor in the pan. If the water and juice are absorbed by the heat, add
+a little cold water, so as to have liquor to baste with. Remove the
+paper about ten minutes before taking from the oven. It takes about
+forty minutes to cook a chicken of middle size.
+
+Serve a baked chicken with _sauces_ and _garnitures_, and _decorated_
+the same as if it were roasted, and as described in the above receipts.
+
+_Saute._--After being cleaned and prepared as directed, cut the chicken
+in pieces as for _fricassee_. Put it in a saucepan with about an ounce
+of butter; set on the fire, stir now and then till it is of a golden
+color and pour off the fat, if any is in the saucepan. Add a
+tablespoonful of flour and stir half a minute, then add also broth
+enough to nearly cover the meat, half a pint of white wine, a bunch of
+seasonings composed of four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, half a
+bay-leaf, and one clove, the four tied together with twine; add salt,
+and one onion whole. Boil gently till done. Ten minutes before serving,
+add half a dozen mushrooms.
+
+Dish the pieces of chicken as directed for _fricassee_, place the
+mushrooms over them, strain the sauce all over, and serve warm.
+
+If the chicken is done before the sauce is reduced or is rather thick,
+dish the meat and put it away in a warm place, boil the rest slowly till
+reduced, and then turn it over the meat. Serve with or without a border,
+as in a _fricassee_. Truffles may be used instead of mushrooms, if
+handy, or liked. Water may be used instead of broth, but it is inferior.
+
+_Another._--To be good _saute_, the chicken must be young and tender.
+Clean, prepare, and cut as directed. Put about one ounce and a half of
+butter in a frying-pan, set it on the fire, and when melted put the
+pieces of chicken in, stir now and then till all the pieces have a
+golden hue; add a tablespoonful of flour, stir again for about one
+minute; then add also salt and pepper, half a pint of broth, or one gill
+of broth and one gill of white wine; boil gently for five or six
+minutes. Add again a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, five or six
+mushrooms cut in slices, keep it boiling gently till done, and serve
+warm.
+
+If the sauce is boiling away, or is found too thick, add a little broth.
+Use _Champagne_, _Sauterne_, or _Catawba_ wine. It is much better with
+wine than without.
+
+_Another._--Clean, prepare, and cut the chicken as for _fricassee_. Put
+it in a saucepan with about an ounce of butter, set on the fire, stir
+once in a while till all the pieces are of a fine golden color; then
+pour off the fat that may be in the pan. Sprinkle a tablespoonful of
+flour all over it, and stir for about half a minute, then add three or
+four shallots, or two or three small green onions, chopped fine,
+parsley, and three or four mushrooms, both cut in small pieces, a bunch
+of seasonings composed of four sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, and one clove, salt, and pepper.
+
+Stir often till cooked, and serve with a few drops of lemon-juice
+sprinkled on it when dished.
+
+Dish as directed for _fricassee_.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean, prepare, and cut the chicken in pieces as for
+_fricassee_. Brown them in a saucepan with about one ounce of butter,
+then take the pieces off, add half a tablespoonful of flour to the
+butter, stir for one minute, then add also three or four mushrooms in
+slices, a small onion, and half a dozen sprigs of parsley chopped fine,
+stir for two or three minutes, then cover with half a pint of white wine
+and the same of broth, boil for ten minutes, put the pieces of chicken
+back into the pan, boil gently till done, and serve warm as it is.
+
+The pieces of chicken are dished as directed for _fricassee_.
+
+_Stuffed with Bread._--Soak stale bread in cold water, and then squeeze
+the water out of it. Put one ounce of butter in a saucepan and set it on
+the fire; as soon as melted, add one middling-sized onion chopped fine,
+and stir till it turns rather yellow, then add the bread, stir two
+minutes; add again salt, pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, two or three
+tablespoonfuls of broth; stir again two or three minutes, take from the
+fire, mix in it a yolk of egg, put back on the fire for half a minute,
+stirring the while, take off again, add a teaspoonful of chopped
+parsley, and use. Fill the crop (we mean the place where the crop was)
+and also the body or inside of the bird with the above mixture, truss it
+as directed; roast or bake it, and serve with the gravy.
+
+_Stuffed with Sausage-meat._--Set a saucepan on the fire with about half
+an ounce of butter in it; when melted add an onion chopped fine, stir,
+and, when nearly fried, add also the heart and liver of the bird,
+chopped fine, four, six, or eight ounces of sausage-meat (according to
+the size of the bird), stir for about twelve minutes, take from the
+fire, mix a yolk of egg with it, also four or five mushrooms chopped, or
+one or two truffles, chopped also, put back on the fire for five
+minutes, stirring the while, take from the fire again, fill the prepared
+bird with the mixture, and as above, roast or bake it, and serve it with
+its gravy.
+
+_Stuffed with Chestnuts._--Roast chestnuts and skin them, removing also
+the white envelope that is under the outside skin. Fill the inside of a
+cleaned and prepared chicken till half full, add about one and a half
+ounces of butter, finish the filling; truss, roast or bake as directed,
+and serve the bird with its gravy.
+
+_Stuffed with Truffles._--The truffles, being preserved, do not require
+any preparation, half a pound is enough for a middling-sized chicken; it
+is not necessary to put any where the crop was.
+
+Salt and pepper the inside of the bird, and put in it also about a
+teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, then the truffles; sew the incision
+made to draw it; truss it as directed, and roast or bake.
+
+_The same, stewed._--When stuffed, put four ounces of salt pork cut in
+dice in a saucepan, with slices of onion and carrot, place the chicken
+on them, season with four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf,
+and one clove tied together; half cover it with broth and white wine, of
+equal parts, set on the fire, boil gently till done, turning it over
+several times. Dish the bird, strain the sauce over it, and serve warm.
+
+After being stuffed with truffles, it may be kept two days before
+cooking.
+
+_Cold._--What is left from the previous day's dinner is known under the
+name of cold meat.
+
+For about half a chicken put one ounce of butter in a saucepan, and,
+when melted, turn into it a _financiere_ garniture, and half a pint of
+Madeira wine, boil gently about eight minutes, put the cold chicken cut
+in pieces in it; leave just long enough on the fire to warm it, and
+serve.
+
+If not a roasted or broiled chicken, or part of either, you merely warm
+it in the _bain-marie_ if possible, or on the fire, and serve as it is.
+
+If roasted or broiled, it is served in _blanquette_, thus:
+
+Cut up the meat in slices, have in a stewpan and on a good fire a piece
+of butter the size of two walnuts; when melted, sprinkle in it a pinch
+of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon the while; then pour in also,
+little by little, two gills of warm broth, same of boiling water, half a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and two or three small
+onions fried in butter; boil fifteen minutes. After that time subdue the
+fire, place the slices of chicken in the pan, and serve as it is when
+well warmed.
+
+Instead of onions, slices of pickled cucumbers may be used.
+
+_Another way._--Cut up the chicken or part of it as for _fricassee_. Put
+a little butter in a stewpan and set on the fire; when melted, sprinkle
+in it a little flour, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, same of
+chopped mushrooms, stir with a wooden spoon the while, two or three
+minutes after which add two gills of white wine, boil the whole fifteen
+minutes; then subdue the fire, put the pieces of chicken in the pan, and
+serve as it is when warm.
+
+It may also, after it is cut up, be served cold, with an oil,
+_piquante_, or _poivrade_ sauce.
+
+_The same, in Fricassee._--An old chicken that has been used to make
+broth, either alone or with beef, when cool, or the next day, may be
+prepared just as a spring chicken in _fricassee_.
+
+_In Salad._--It is made with cold chicken, roasted or baked, with a
+whole one or part of it.
+
+Cut all the meat in dice and put it in a bowl.
+
+Cut just as much roasted or baked veal in dice also, and put with the
+chicken.
+
+Cut also about as much table celery as chicken, which put with the meat
+also. Season with salt, pepper, vinegar, and very little oil; stir and
+mix the whole well. Add also some lettuce, and mix again gently. Put the
+mixture then on a platter, making a small mound with it; spread a
+Mayonnaise-sauce all over it; decorate with hard-boiled eggs, cut in
+four or eight pieces, lengthwise; also with centre leaves of lettuce,
+capers, boiled beets, and even slices of lemon.
+
+A bard-boiled egg is cut across in two, then with a sharp knife scallop
+each half, invert them and run a small skewer through both, so as to
+leave the smaller end of both halves in the middle and touching; place
+the egg right in the middle of the dish, when the Mayonnaise is spread
+all over; plant the centre leaves of a head of lettuce in the middle of
+the upper half of the egg, with a few capers in it, and serve.
+
+Some use mustard with a chicken salad; it is really wrong, because
+chickens and Mayonnaise-sauce are too delicate to use mustard with them.
+
+
+  CAPON.
+
+A caponed chicken is cleaned, prepared, cooked, and served in the same
+and every way as a common chicken.
+
+A capon is almost always fat, larger than an ordinary chicken, and has a
+more delicate and tender flesh.
+
+_Roasted_ and served in the different ways described for chicken, it
+makes a _recherche_ dish, also when stuffed with chestnuts or truffles,
+as a common chicken.
+
+_Boiled._--Clean and prepare as directed above; rub the fleshy part with
+lemon, envelop it with slices of bacon, place it in a stewpan with one
+sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, one clove, a small carrot,
+two onions, salt, and pepper; cover with half water and half broth, and
+set on a moderate fire. When cooked, take the capon off, place it on a
+dish, and set it in a warm place; then boil the sauce till it is rather
+thick, when strain it on the capon, and serve.
+
+_The same, with Rice._--When cleaned and prepared as above, you place
+the capon in a stewpan, cover it with water, add one glass of broth, a
+bay-leaf, one clove, a sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a small carrot,
+two onions, salt, and pepper; boil ten minutes, then add also about four
+ounces of rice, soaked in lukewarm water before using it, and let simmer
+for two hours. Take the capon off, and in case the rice should not be
+found to be cooked enough, finish the cooking of it; then take off
+clove, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, carrot and onions, pour the remainder
+on the capon, and serve.
+
+
+  TURKEY.
+
+Tame and wild are prepared and served alike.
+
+The legs of a young hen-turkey are black; the cock has small spurs, and
+also black legs.
+
+The shorter the neck the better and fatter the bird.
+
+An old hen has red and rough legs; the cock also has long spurs.
+
+The fatter they are the better; they cannot be too fat. The broader the
+breast the better; the skin must be white.
+
+It is fresh enough as long as the legs are not stiff.
+
+_Boiled._--Clean and prepare turkey as directed for poultry.
+
+Put in a stewpan, large enough to hold a turkey, a piece of butter the
+size of a duck's egg, also a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, same of
+green onions, and four or five mushrooms; set it on a good fire, and, as
+soon as the butter is hot, lay the turkey in; turn over now and then
+till of a fine golden color, then take it from the pan, cover the breast
+with slices of bacon tied with twine, and put it back in the pan; add a
+pinch of allspice, six small onions, salt, pepper, a glass of white
+wine, and a pint of broth; simmer till cooked, dish it, strain the sauce
+on it, and serve. It takes about two hours to cook a turkey of middling
+size. A little warm broth should be added, in case the sauce boils away
+during the cooking.
+
+_Roasted._--Clean, prepare, and truss a turkey as directed for poultry,
+and, if the turkey is not fat, the breast may be larded with salt pork.
+Place it on the spit before a sharp fire, basting often with melted
+butter at first, and then with the drippings. It may be enveloped in
+buttered paper and tied with twine before placing it on the spit; the
+paper is removed ten or fifteen minutes before taking from the fire;
+serve with the gravy, after having skimmed the fat off.
+
+Some fresh water-cress is placed all around it, and on which you
+sprinkle vinegar or lemon-juice.
+
+A turkey may be served in every way as a roasted chicken--with sauces,
+garnitures, and decorated with skewers.
+
+_Baked._--When cleaned, prepared, and trussed, put the turkey in a
+baking-pan, spread a little butter on it, put a little cold water in the
+pan, the depth of about two-eighths of an inch, sprinkle salt all over,
+place a piece of buttered paper on it, and put in a quick oven. Baste
+often and turn the bird over and round, if necessary. It takes from one
+hour and a half to two hours to cook a turkey, according to size,
+quality, and also according to the degree of heat.
+
+It is served with the gravy only, after having removed the fat, or with
+sauces, garnitures, and decorations, described for roasted chicken.
+
+_Oyster-Sauce._--When roasted or baked as directed, serve warm with an
+oyster-sauce.
+
+_With Currant Jelly._--Roast or bake it, and then serve it with
+currant-jelly.
+
+It is also served with a cranberry-sauce.
+
+_Stewed._--An old turkey is more tender stewed than cooked in any other
+way.
+
+The fleshy parts may be larded with salt pork, if found too lean.
+
+Put in a large stew-kettle half a pound of bacon cut in slices, four
+ounces of knuckle of veal, three sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, six small onions, one carrot, cut in four pieces, three
+cloves, one clove of garlic, salt, pepper, and then the turkey; wet with
+a pint of white wine, same of broth, cover as nearly air-tight as you
+can, place in a moderately heated oven or on a moderate fire, let simmer
+(not boil) about two hours and a half, then turn it over, put back on
+the fire or in the oven for another two hours and a half, after which
+dish the turkey; strain the sauce and put it back on the fire to reduce
+it to a jelly, which you spread on it, and serve.
+
+Many _connoisseurs_ prefer the turkey served thus when cold; it does not
+cost any thing to try it, and it is very handy for a grand dinner, as it
+may be prepared one or two days in advance, and is just as good, if kept
+in a refrigerator.
+
+_Stuffed with Chestnuts._--Roast chestnuts enough to fill the bird.
+Skin them and remove also the white skin under the outer one. Fill the
+turkey with them, after having cleaned and prepared it; when about half
+full, put in it also from four to six ounces of butter; finish the
+filling with chestnuts; sew it up, truss it as directed, and roast or
+bake it. Serve with the gravy only.
+
+_Stuffed with Truffles._--Chop fine about four ounces of truffles, and
+put them in a stewpan with about a pound of salt pork cut in dice; set
+it on a moderate fire; add salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, a
+bay-leaf, a pinch of allspice, and a pinch of dried thyme; when hot, add
+also about two pounds of truffles, boil fifteen minutes, tossing now and
+then, and take from the fire. When nearly cool, put the whole in the
+turkey and sew it up; leave it thus, if fresh, four days in winter and
+one or two in summer; if not fresh, leave it a shorter time.
+
+_Roast_ or _bake_ it as directed above, and serve with the gravy, freed
+from the fat part. This dish is considered exquisite by epicures.
+
+_Stuffed with Sausage-meat._--Proceed as for chicken stuffed, in every
+particular.
+
+_With Salt Pork._--Place thin slices of salt pork on the breast of a
+prepared turkey, covering it entirely, and fastening the slices with
+twine; then the turkey is roasted or baked, and served with the gravy.
+The slices may be removed a little before taking from the fire, in order
+to color the meat.
+
+_Boned._--Buy a good turkey, neither too old nor too fat, and picked
+dry. Singe the bird, but do not draw it. Cut the neck off about one inch
+and a half from the body. Cut also the wings off just above the second
+joint, and the legs just above the first joint; the third joint is the
+one nearest the body. Split the skin from the end of the neck to the
+rump; use a small sharp-pointed knife; commence to run the knife between
+the bones and flesh, on one side, till you come to the third joint of
+the wings and legs. By twisting and raising both wings and leg, but one
+at a time, you easily crack the joint, and then separate it from the
+body with the knife. Continue to run the knife between the bones and
+flesh, on the same side, till you come to the breast-bone. Do the same
+on the other side. Pull out the crop and cut off the rump from the body,
+but without touching the skin, as the rump must come off with the skin
+and flesh. Then by taking hold of the bird by the neck with the left
+hand, and pulling the skin gently down with the right, you partly
+uncover the upper part of the breast-bone; then again run the knife
+between that bone and the flesh, on both sides, till you come nearly to
+the end or edge of the bone. Then lay the bird on its back, have
+somebody to take hold of it by the neck, having the breast of the bird
+toward you. All along the edge of the breast-bone there is no flesh
+between the bone and the skin. The bird being held as described above,
+take hold of the skin of the neck with your left hand, pulling gently
+downward, and with the knife detaching the skin carefully from the bone,
+the carcass coming off whole. Place the bird on the table, the inside
+up, pull out the bones of the wings and legs, scraping the flesh an
+around so as to leave it attached to the rest; pull or scrape off all
+the tendons of the legs; push legs and wings inside the bird; see that
+the rump is clean; cut off the ring under it if necessary. We warrant
+that anybody, with an ordinary amount of natural capacity, can bone a
+turkey or other bird by following our directions with care. We recommend
+persons doing it for the first time not to attempt to do it fast. Now
+have at hand about two pounds of sausage-meat seasoned as directed, two
+pounds of boiled ham, half a dozen boiled sheep's tongues or a smoked
+beef tongue (but really the former is better), a pound and a half of
+salt pork, and half a pound of truffles sliced (the latter if handy and
+if liked). Cut the ham, tongues, and salt pork in strips about four
+inches long, one inch broad, and a quarter of an inch thick. Spread the
+bird on the table, the inside up and the rump toward you; salt and
+pepper it; place three or four slices of salt pork here and there on it,
+then a layer of sausage-meat, strips of ham and tongue and salt pork
+alternately on the sausage-meat, slices of truffles if used, again
+sausage-meat, ham, etc., till there is enough to fill the bird well;
+that is, by bringing the two sides of the skin together, giving the bird
+a round form, it is perfectly full. It is impossible to give exact
+proportions; it depends not only on the size of the bird, but also on
+the quality and degree of fatness of the bird. In two of the same
+weight, one may require more than the other to fill it. When filled, and
+when the two sides of the skin are brought together as described above,
+sew up the cut with a trussing-needle and twine. Wrap up the bird
+tightly in a towel, tie the towel with a string, and run the string all
+around the towel to prevent it from opening at all. Take a kettle or
+saucepan of an oval shape and large enough to hold the bird, put enough
+cold water in it to cover the bird, also all the bones of the bird
+(broken in pieces), a small piece of lean beef, say one pound, a few
+stalks of parsley, two of thyme, two cloves, two cloves of garlic, a
+bay-leaf, twelve pepper-corns, a middling-sized carrot sliced, half a
+turnip, and salt. Set on the fire, and at the first boiling put the bird
+in; boil gently for about three hours if it is a turkey of middling
+size, two hours for a middling-sized chicken. When done it partly
+floats; that is, the upper part is above the liquor. Take it from the
+pan, take the towel off and rinse it in cold water; wrap the bird up in
+the towel again and in the same way as before; place it on a large dish,
+with the seam or back under; put another plate or dish over it with a
+weight on it, and leave thus overnight in a cool place. The next morning
+the bird will be perfectly cold and rather flattened; then remove the
+towel, also the twine with which it has been sewed, place it on the dish
+on which it is to be served, the breast upward; glaze it with essence of
+beef or glace; decorate with meat-jelly, and serve.
+
+_How to decorate with Jelly._--When the jelly is congealed and can be
+cut with a knife, chop some of it on a coarse towel and put it all
+around the bird, about half an inch thick; cut some in slices about a
+quarter of an inch in thickness; cut these again with paste-cutters in
+different shapes, according to fancy, and place it over the bird, also
+according to fancy; again cut some of it in slices about one inch broad,
+a quarter of an inch thick and of any length, and cut out of these last
+ones pieces of a triangular shape, which put all around the border of
+the dish, placed so that one point of each piece is turned toward the
+edge of the dish and the two other points touch the other pieces on both
+sides; then you have an indented border of jelly. When the jelly is
+fancifully and tastefully arranged, it makes a sightly dish.
+
+It is always served cold for breakfast, lunch, or supper.
+
+In summer the jelly melts, and cannot be used as a decoration. A boned
+bird is then served without jelly. The bird is cut in slices, and some
+jelly is served with each slice.
+
+_Cold._--A turkey, being a large bird, is seldom entirely eaten the day
+it is served, and very often more than half of it is left for the next
+day. What is left may be prepared in different ways.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Cut the flesh in slices and serve them with a
+_vinaigrette_. It is not understood here for a boned turkey, which is
+always eaten cold, but either a roasted, baked, stewed, or stuffed
+turkey.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Proceed in every particular as for chicken
+_croquettes_.
+
+_In Salad._--A salad of turkey is made also exactly the same as a salad
+of chicken, with cold meat. It is covered with a Mayonnaise-sauce and
+decorated in the same way.
+
+Besides the above ways of preparing cold turkey, it may also be prepared
+as directed for cold chicken in general.
+
+A caponed turkey is prepared as a caponed chicken, boiled or with rice;
+and also like a turkey, as described in the above receipts. They are
+generally larger, fatter, and more tender and juicy than others. They
+are very much appreciated here, and every year more and more are
+supplied, and, as in Europe, the greater the supply the better the
+quality. There is a ready market for caponed turkeys in all the large
+cities of the United States, and they command a high price.
+
+
+  DUCKS.
+
+Ducks and ducklings, tame and wild, are prepared alike. To be good, a
+duck must be fat, be it a _canvasback_, _gadwell_, _black-duck_,
+_garganey_, _poachard_, _wood-duck_, _pintail_, _shoveller_,
+_spirit-duck_, _summer-duck_, _teal_, _widgeon_, _shelldrake_, or any
+other.
+
+_How to select._--A young duck has the lower part of the legs soft, and
+the skin between the claws soft also; you will also know if it is young
+by taking hold of it by the bill (the under bill only), if it breaks or
+bends, the duck is young.
+
+If the breast of the duck is hard and thick, it is fresh enough.
+
+_How to prepare._--A duck is cleaned and prepared as directed for
+poultry.
+
+_Roasted._--Clean, prepare, and truss the duck as a chicken, with the
+exception that the rump is pushed inside; the duck being much longer
+than a chicken, it is more sightly when so trussed.
+
+Place inside of the duck two sage-leaves, two bay-leaves, and two sprigs
+of thyme, and leave it thus in a cool place for two or three hours, and
+then roast it as directed for chicken.
+
+When roasted, serve it with any of the following garnitures: cabbage,
+cauliflower, _Macedoine_, onion, or truffles.
+
+The fatty part of the gravy or drippings must be carefully and totally
+removed before turning it over the duck and garniture. It takes from
+thirty to forty minutes to roast.
+
+_Baked._--When cleaned, prepared, and trussed as directed for turkeys
+and chickens, put the duck in a bakepan, salt and pepper it, cover the
+bottom of the pan with cold water, and place it in a rather quick oven.
+
+A duck, being generally very fat, requires to be turned over and over
+several times and to be basted very often. It is not necessary to cover
+it with buttered paper. In case there is much fat in the pan, remove it
+while it is cooking.
+
+It is served as directed for roast duck, with garnitures.
+
+When roasted or baked, it is also served with apple or cranberry-sauce,
+or with currant-jelly.
+
+_With Peas._--Cut in dice about one ounce of salt pork and put it in a
+saucepan; set it on the fire, and, as soon as the butter is melted,
+brown in it a duck trussed as directed and take from the fire. Put one
+ounce of butter in a saucepan and mix it cold with a tablespoonful of
+flour, set it on the fire, and, when the butter is melted, put the duck
+in with about a quart of green peas, blanched for one or two minutes
+only; add about a pint of water or of broth, a bunch of seasonings
+composed of three or four stalks of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf,
+and one clove, salt, and pepper; boil gently till the whole is cooked,
+and serve warm.
+
+Remove all the fat carefully before serving.
+
+If the water should boil away while it is cooking, add a little more.
+
+_With Oranges._--Roast or bake a young duck as directed, and serve it
+with carpels of orange all around; and sprinkle some orange-juice all
+over just before serving it.
+
+_With Olives._--Roast or bake the duck as directed. When done, turn the
+gravy into a small saucepan with about two dozen olives; stir gently,
+and keep on the fire for about five minutes. Dish the duck, place the
+olives all around; turn the gravy over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_Saute, served with a Border._--When cleaned and cut in eight pieces as
+directed, set it on the fire with one ounce of butter, stir occasionally
+till turning brown, then pour off the fat from the saucepan, add broth
+enough just to cover the pieces of duck; also one onion with a clove
+stuck in it, a bunch of seasonings tied with twine and composed of four
+stalks of parsley, one of thyme, and a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper; boil
+gently till done. Place the pieces of duck inside of a border of rice,
+strain the sauce over the duck only, and serve hot.
+
+The rice must be cooked, moulded, and placed on the dish while the duck
+is cooking, so as to serve the whole warm. (_See_ Rice in Border.)
+
+_To cut._--A duck is generally cut in eight pieces, the two legs and
+wings, the breast in two, and the back-bone in two.
+
+_With Turnips._--Truss the duck as directed for birds. Put one ounce of
+butter in a saucepan, set it on the fire, and, when melted, put the duck
+in, turn over now and then till it is brown on every side. Then add a
+piece of onion chopped fine, stir, and, when turning brown also, add
+water enough to half cover it; also a bunch of seasonings composed of
+three sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove; boil
+gently till done, when add salt to taste.
+
+While the duck is cooking, cut two turnips in dice or in round pieces
+with a fruit-corer, or with a vegetable spoon, set them on the fire with
+cold water and salt, boil till tender, and drain them.
+
+Put them back on the fire with the sauce or gravy from the saucepan in
+which the duck has cooked, give one boil, dish the duck, place the
+turnips around, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Cut the duck in pieces. Set a saucepan on the fire with
+an ounce of butter in it, when melted, add half a tablespoonful of
+flour, stir, and, when turning brown, add half a dozen small turnips or
+two large ones, cut with a vegetable spoon; stir, and, when they are all
+browned, take them off and brown the pieces of duck; then put the
+turnips back in the pan, add broth enough just to cover the whole; also
+two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, salt, and
+pepper; boil gently till cooked; dish the duck and turnips, turn the
+sauce over them through a strainer, and serve warm.
+
+_Cold._--What is left from the preceding day's dinner is prepared in
+_salmis_.
+
+Very often a duck is baked, especially to make a _salmis_ with it.
+(_See_ Salmis.)
+
+_Boned._--Bone, fill, cook, and serve as turkey boned.
+
+Cold duck may also be prepared in _croquettes_ and salad, like chicken.
+
+_Stuffed._--It is stuffed with sausage-meat and chestnuts, also like a
+chicken.
+
+
+  GEESE AND GOSLINGS--TAME OR WILD.
+
+A young goose has much down and soft legs of a yellow color; an old one
+has little down and rough legs of a reddish color. When fresh, the legs
+are soft; and stiff and dry when not fresh.
+
+Geese and goslings are prepared, cooked, and served like ducks, in the
+following ways: roasted and baked, and served with garnitures, with
+cranberry-sauce, currant-jelly, apple-sauce, with a border, olives,
+oranges, peas, or turnips; in _croquettes_ and in _salmis_.
+
+It is boned, cooked, and served, like a boned turkey.
+
+_In Civet._--Clean, prepare, and cut the goose in pieces, removing most
+of the fat, and then cook, and serve it like rabbit in civet.
+
+It takes a little longer than to cook a rabbit, but makes a very good
+dish.
+
+When the civet is properly made, it does not taste like goose.
+
+
+  GUINEA-FOWLS.
+
+A young Guinea-bird is good, but an old one is hardly fit to be eaten.
+
+Guinea-fowls are prepared and served like prairie-hens.
+
+
+  PIGEONS.
+
+The stall-fed or squab is prepared the same as the wild one.
+
+_To select._--If the legs are not red, they are young; and if not stiff,
+they are fresh. When not fresh, the rump is of a bluish color.
+
+Clean and prepare them as directed for fowls.
+
+_Broiled._--Split the backs of the pigeons so as to open them, flatten
+them a little with a chopper. Put two ounces of butter (for six pigeons)
+in a saucepan, and set it on a good fire; when hot, add to it a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley and green onions, salt, and pepper; then
+the pigeons. When half cooked, take them from the fire, roll them in
+bread-crumbs, place them on the gridiron and set on a moderate fire,
+turn over once or twice, and, when done, serve on a _maitre d'hotel_,
+_piquante_, or _poivrade_ sauce.
+
+_Another way._--When cleaned, prepared, and split open as directed
+above, salt and pepper them, grease them slightly with melted butter, by
+means of a brush; then broil them till underdone, and serve with a
+_maitre d'hotel_ sauce.
+
+_In Chartreuse._--A _chartreuse_ with pigeons is made and served as a
+_chartreuse_ of prairie-hens.
+
+_In Papillotes._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, bake the
+pigeons till about half done, then split them in two, lengthwise, and
+then proceed as for _veal cutlets_ in papillotes.
+
+They may be fried with a little butter, instead of baked.
+
+_With Vegetables._--Clean and prepare as directed for poultry, four
+pigeons. Cut them in four pieces each.
+
+Put in a saucepan two ounces of butter, and set it on the fire; when
+melted, brown the pigeons in it, and then take them from the pan.
+
+The pigeons being taken off, put into the pan, which is kept on the
+fire, half a carrot and two onions sliced, half a turnip, sliced also;
+four or five stalks of parsley, one of thyme, one of celery, a bay-leaf,
+two cloves; the latter five tied together. Cover the whole with broth or
+water; boil gently till about half done, then add the pieces of pigeons,
+and salt and pepper; continue boiling till the whole is done.
+
+Dish the pigeons, throw away the seasonings, mash the carrot, onions,
+and turnips through a colander, which you mix with the sauce. Place the
+mixture around the pieces of pigeons, and serve warm.
+
+_Stuffed._--It is stuffed, cooked, and served like a stuffed chicken.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Put a piece of butter the size of a walnut in a
+stewpan, and set it on a good fire; when hot, add two ounces of bacon
+cut in dice, then place in four pigeons, leave thus till of a fine
+golden color, and then take pigeons and bacon off the pan. Put again in
+the stewpan the same quantity of butter as before; when melted, sprinkle
+in, little by little, a teaspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden
+spoon, and when of a proper thickness, and of a brownish color, put the
+pigeons and bacon back in, add four small onions, two sprigs of parsley,
+one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a pinch of allspice, salt, pepper, half a
+glass of broth, same of claret wine; simmer about an hour, take off
+parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, and send to the table.
+
+_The same, roasted._--Envelop each pigeon in thin slices of bacon tied
+with twine, place them on a spit before a moderate fire, baste often
+with the drippings, and, when cooked, serve them with the gravy, at the
+same time sprinkling a few drops of lemon-juice on them. It takes from
+thirty to thirty-five minutes to roast them.
+
+To roast or bake they are trussed like a chicken, as seen in the cut
+below. To carve pigeons is easy, they are merely split in two,
+lengthwise.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Baked._--Place a thin slice of fat salt pork or bacon on the breast of
+each pigeon, after being cleaned, prepared, and salted; place them in a
+bakepan, on their back; cover the bottom of the pan with cold water and
+put in a hot oven, baste often, and when done serve them with
+water-cress and lemon-juice.
+
+The pigeons are placed on the dish the same as they were in the bakepan;
+place water-cress between each, also all around and in the middle of
+them; sprinkle lemon-juice all over, and serve warm.
+
+_With Green Peas._--When cleaned and prepared, truss the pigeons and put
+them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter for half a dozen,
+stir now and then till turning rather brown all around and take off;
+then put in the saucepan about two ounces of salt pork cut in dice,
+stir, and, when partly fried, take it off also. The pan being still on
+the fire, put into it a good tablespoonful of flour, stir till it turns
+brown, when you add about a quart of broth, stir and mix; put pigeons
+and salt pork back into the pan, season with a bunch of seasonings,
+composed of half a dozen stalks of parsley, one of thyme, two
+bay-leaves, a clove, and one clove of garlic. Boil gently till nearly
+half done, and then add a quart of green peas, blanched previously; boil
+again gently till the whole is done; remove the bunch of seasonings and
+the clove of garlic; dish the pigeons, turn the peas in the same dish,
+but in the middle of the pigeons, which can be tastefully placed all
+around the dish; strain the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Prepare and truss the pigeons the same as for the
+above, and proceed also as for the above in every particular, except
+that you do not put in the saucepan quite as much broth, a pint is
+sufficient, and boil gently till done, but do not add peas.
+
+Ten minutes before taking from the fire, add a dozen mushrooms, whole or
+sliced, and half a gill of claret wine, if handy.
+
+Dish the pigeons, place the mushrooms in the middle of the dish, strain
+the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_Fried._--Take four pigeons, cut each in four pieces, put two ounces of
+butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire; when melted, put the pigeons
+in with two or three sprigs of parsley, a small sprig of thyme, a
+bay-leaf, a pinch of allspice, salt, pepper, and half a pint of broth.
+Take the pigeons off when half cooked, and, as soon as they are cool,
+dip each piece in beaten eggs and roll it in bread-crumbs. Strain the
+butter that may be left in the stewpan, and put it in a frying-pan with
+about an ounce more, and fry the birds for about two minutes; serve with
+water-cress or parsley all around.
+
+_In Compote._--Roast six pigeons as directed. Then cut one of them in
+dice, put it in a mortar and pound it. Put half an ounce of butter in a
+saucepan, and, when melted, fry half an onion chopped fine in it; then
+add to the pounded pigeon about a gill of gravy, a gill of good broth,
+salt, pepper, a bunch of seasonings, composed of three stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove; also about a gill of
+Madeira wine or white wine, boil gently till reduced about one-third,
+strain. Put back on the fire, add butter, and when melted stir and set
+it on the corner of the range to keep warm while the rest is prepared.
+Cut the other five pigeons in two, lengthwise. Cut ten pieces of bread
+square, or of an oval shape, and about the size of a half pigeon, fry
+them with a little butter, and place them on a dish. While the bread is
+frying, put the pigeons in an oven to warm them; place half a pigeon on
+each slice of bread, or one lapping over the other; have the slices and
+pigeons so arranged that they fill the dish, leaving only a small space
+in the middle, into which you pour the sauce; serve the whole hot.
+
+_In Crapaudine._--When prepared, split open the backs of the pigeons;
+cut the legs at the first joints and run them through the skin so that
+the ends come out on the inside; dip the bird in beaten eggs, roll them
+in bread-crumbs, and broil them.
+
+While they are broiling, knead butter, chopped parsley, and lemon-juice
+together; spread some on the pigeons when they are dished, and serve
+warm.
+
+
+  GIBLETS.
+
+By giblets are understood the gizzards, heads, legs, livers, necks, and
+ends of the wings of chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, and other birds,
+tame or wild.
+
+You begin by cleaning them well, cut off the bills, take the eyes out,
+warming the legs on live coals, so that you can take off the outer skin
+and spurs; place the giblets in a tureen, turn boiling water and a
+little salt on them, leave them thus five or six minutes, then wash well
+and drain them.
+
+_In Fricassee._--Put a piece of butter in a stewpan (the size to be
+according to the quantity of giblets you have), set it on a good fire;
+when melted, sprinkle in it, little by little, a teaspoonful of flour;
+stir the whole with a wooden spoon; when of a proper thickness, and of a
+brownish color, add half a gill of warm broth, same of warm water, a
+sprig of parsley, a small pinch of grated nutmeg, two small onions,
+salt, and pepper; then the giblets. About half an hour after add also
+two mushrooms, cut in pieces. It takes about two hours to cook them
+properly. Dish the pieces, strain the sauce, mix in it one well-beaten
+yolk of an egg, and a few drops of lemon-juice; pour it on the giblets,
+place the pieces of mushrooms over the whole, and serve.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Put the giblets in a stewpan with butter, and set
+it on a good fire; when they are of a fine yellow color, add one or two
+sprigs of parsley, a clove of garlic, a sprig of thyme, one clove, half
+a bay-leaf, two mushrooms cut in pieces, two small onions, and a pinch
+of flour; wet with broth, let simmer gently for half an hour, and add
+also two parsnips cut in slices, and previously half fried in butter;
+simmer again for about an hour; dish the pieces of meat, strain the
+sauce, put it back on the fire to reduce it a little, pour it on the
+giblets, place the pieces of mushrooms at the top, and serve hot.
+
+_Saute._--They may also be prepared and served as a _chicken saute_.
+
+
+  ASPIC OF MEAT.
+
+Cut four middling-sized onions in slices, lay them in a stewpan with a
+quarter of a pound of bacon (not smoked); then add about a quarter of a
+pound of each of the following meats: chicken, game (any kind), mutton,
+and beef, also a calf's foot split in two, two ounces of rind of bacon,
+two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, a clove of garlic, two carrots cut
+in two, one clove, and four small onions; wet with half a pint of water,
+and set on a brisk fire; cover the pan well. When nearly cooked, take
+the grease off with a ladle; add then boiling water enough just to cover
+the whole, and finish the cooking. Strain the juice, skim off the fat,
+if any, and let it cool; if it is not found clear enough when strained,
+beat well two whites of eggs, put them in the stewpan with the juice,
+set it on a sharp fire for about ten minutes, stirring the while, and
+take from the fire; add to it a few drops of lemon-juice, and strain
+again.
+
+Put in a mould some of the above juice, about two-eighths of an inch in
+depth; place the mould on ice, and leave till the juice has turned into
+a jelly. Lay on that jelly some of the following meats, free from bones,
+and not allowing the pieces to touch the sides of the mould: chicken,
+game, tongues of beef, calf, and sheep, of all or of either of them (the
+meats must be cooked beforehand). Cover the whole with the remainder of
+the juice, so as to have about the same thickness at the top as at the
+bottom. Place the mould in a refrigerator to cool, and turn into a
+jelly; then dip the mould in very warm water, turn over on a dish,
+remove the mould, and you have a fine _entree_.
+
+
+
+
+  GAME.
+
+
+Game, comparatively, is appreciated only by a few.
+
+When the country was first settled, every one was his own provider, and
+of course game was not sent to a market several hundred miles from the
+place where it was shot or caught. But settlement and civilization have
+the same effect on game as they have on barbarians or savages--they
+drive it away.
+
+Our Northeastern cities are now supplied by the Western States with
+game. In winter time, game may be kept for weeks without being spoiled
+or losing its natural flavor and taste, when kept where it is killed;
+but when transported, it is very different. To transport it requires
+packing. As soon as packed, it naturally ferments; and even if packed
+when frozen, the middle of the barrel will ferment and become injured,
+if not entirely rendered unfit for the table.
+
+The packing of game or poultry in barrels is a bad practice. Nothing
+requires more ventilation than game while being transported. Many
+dealers have their game sent to them in wicker-baskets with plenty of
+straw, but the greater part is still sent in barrels; hence the musty
+taste when cooked.
+
+To keep game for some time when fresh, open the animal or bird under the
+rump, just enough to take the inside out, also the crop of birds, being
+very careful about the gall-bladder; if it bursts, it is better not to
+try to preserve the piece, but to clean, wash, and use it as soon as
+possible. Birds must be left in their feathers, and animals in their
+skins. Fill the inside with dry and clean oats, and put the piece in a
+heap or barrel of oats. It will keep thus for many days.
+
+Another way is to envelop the piece well in a towel, and bury it in
+charcoal dust in a cool and dry place.
+
+_How to clean and prepare._--Clean and prepare the birds as directed for
+poultry in general.
+
+After having carefully skinned, take out the inside, and cut the legs
+off at the first joint of animals; wash the inside with lukewarm water,
+and wipe it dry with a clean towel immediately after; wipe also the
+outside, but do not wash it if possible; that is, if you can clean it
+well by wiping only.
+
+_Wild ducks_, _geese_, _pigeons_, and _turkeys_, are prepared, cooked,
+and served like tame ones.
+
+_Bear-meat and Buffalo._--The meat of all large animals is better
+roasted, than dressed in any other way. Prepare, cook, and serve bear
+and buffalo meat like venison, beef _a la mode_, or stewed.
+
+Bear-meat has highly nutritive qualities, and is very warming.
+
+Buffalo-steaks are said to be better broiled on cinders without a
+gridiron, than on or before coals with one; that is, Indian fashion and
+even hunters' fashion.
+
+Indians often use wood-ashes as a substitute for salt, and never use
+salt with buffalo-meat; but their liking or preference comes from their
+habit of invariably broiling buffalo-meat on wood cinders or
+buffalo-chips.
+
+_Bear-hams_, so well appreciated everywhere, are prepared and served
+like common hams. A bear-ham, tastefully decorated, is considered a
+_recherche_ dish at supper for evening parties.
+
+_Blackbird_, _Bobolink_, and _Small Birds_.--The cut below represents
+six small birds on the spit, ready for _roasting_. When the birds are
+prepared, cut off the ends of the wings and the legs above the first
+joint. Instead of cutting the legs above the first joint, the ends of
+the claws only may be cut off, according to taste. Cut thin slices of
+fat salt pork, of a proper size to cover the breast of the bird; place
+the slice on the breast of it, run a skewer through the middle of the
+bird, so that it will run through the two ends of the slice of salt pork
+also, as seen in the cut.
+
+Have a skewer, or merely a piece of wire, long enough to hold six birds;
+fix the skewer on the spit, and roast.
+
+When the six birds are on the skewer, fasten them with twine, to prevent
+them from turning round, as seen in the cut.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Small birds are cleaned and prepared as directed for poultry, but they
+are not trussed, their legs being tied while tying the salt pork. While
+roasting, they are basted often with the drippings. Some water-cress and
+lemon-juice sprinkled upon them may be served with the birds. The twine
+is removed before serving, and they must be served hot; if allowed to
+cool at all, they lose their taste. It takes from ten to fifteen minutes
+to roast.
+
+_Baked._--Prepare them exactly as for roasting: place the wire or skewer
+across a baking-pan, turn them round and baste often; serve also as
+above, with the gravy, and with or without water-cress.
+
+The _bobolink_, _reed-bird_, and _rice-bird_ are the same; they are
+called under these different names at different seasons and in different
+localities; it is the American ortolan, the most delicate of small
+birds; the robin comes next.
+
+_To eat it a la Brillat-Savarin._--Take hold of the bird by the bill;
+open your mouth wide enough to introduce the whole bird into it easily;
+then shut it, at the same time biting off the bill just at its base;
+chew properly and swallow.
+
+While the birds are roasting or baking, place as many small slices of
+bread in the dripping or baking pan, and serve a bird over each slice.
+Cut the slices either square, round, or oval, about one-fourth of an
+inch in thickness, and large enough to hold the bird.
+
+_Hunter-like._--Prepare small birds as described for quails,
+hunter-like; it makes an excellent dish.
+
+_In Salmis._--Roasted or baked small birds can be prepared in _salmis_
+when cold. Many amateurs prefer small birds not drawn; that is, the crop
+only is taken off, but nothing of the inside is disturbed; they pretend
+that they have a better taste when cooked thus; of course, every one to
+his taste.
+
+_High-holders_, _lapwings_, _meadow-larks_, _plovers_, _rails_,
+_robins_, _snipes_, _thrushes_, _woodcocks_, _woodpeckers_, and
+_yellow-birds_ are prepared as above.
+
+Small birds have a better flavor when cooked after being somewhat
+seasoned than when cooked fresh, but they must not be tainted. As long
+as the rump is stiff, they are good; if soft, they must be examined
+carefully, as they might be tainted. When young, there is no stiffness
+in the legs. Small birds are generally put by the half dozen on the
+same skewer, as seen in the cut (p. 278); but when a little larger, like
+the robin or plover, they may be trussed as directed for snipes.
+
+_Grouse or Heathcock._--These are good as long as the legs are flexible;
+if not, examine them carefully, they might be rotten inside.
+
+Lard them well, envelop each in buttered paper, and place on the spit
+before a good fire; baste often, remove the paper after twenty or
+twenty-five minutes; leave two or three minutes more, basting
+continually with the drippings; dish the birds; mix with the drippings a
+few drops of lemon-juice, and a little salt and pepper, and serve with
+the birds.
+
+_Baked._--Lard the bird as for roasting; that is, the fleshy parts only
+are larded with salt pork, then truss them as directed for chicken,
+place them in a baking-pan, cover the bottom of the pan with cold water,
+put a piece of buttered paper on each bird, place in a hot oven, baste
+often till done. Serve with the gravy some water-cress, and lemon-juice,
+or vinegar.
+
+It is also prepared, cooked, and served in the different ways described
+for prairie-hen, either in _chartreuse_, _salmis_, salad, or any other
+way.
+
+_Hare._--No hares have yet been found in the United States, except in
+California. The reported hare of the Western prairies is, as far as
+known, a species of rabbit. That found in the Eastern markets comes from
+Canada and Europe. The Canadian hare is very inferior in quality.
+
+_To select._--When young it has rather soft paws, and not much opened,
+and also soft ears; but if old, the paws are hard and much worn, and the
+ears stiff and hard. If fresh, the body is stiff; it is soft, and the
+flesh is nearly black, if tainted. Save the blood as much as possible;
+it improves the sauce very much.
+
+_In Civet._--When the hare is cleaned as directed for game, cut in
+pieces. Have in a saucepan and on a good fire two ounces of butter and
+one of salt pork cut in dice. Stir, and when the salt pork is fried take
+it off the pan, and put the pieces of hare in it; stir with a wooden
+spoon now and then, till of a fine golden color; then sprinkle on it a
+teaspoonful of flour, add ten small onions, four sprigs of parsley, two
+of thyme, two cloves of garlic, a bay-leaf, salt, pepper, about a pint
+of claret wine, same of broth, three or four mushrooms, and a little
+grated nutmeg; boil gently till done; dish the pieces of hare; throw
+away parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, and garlic; mix the blood of the hare, if
+any, in the sauce, boil it about ten minutes longer, turn it on the
+hare, and serve warm.
+
+Many epicures like a civet better when prepared one or two days in
+advance, and only warmed before serving. When the civet is done, and
+ready to serve, place the dish in a cool, dry place, and when you want
+to eat the civet, place the dish in a _bain-marie_, or in an oven, and
+serve when warm.
+
+_The same, roasted._--Lard the hare well; place it on the spit before a
+good fire; baste often with the drippings, and when properly cooked
+serve it with the following sauce: put in a stewpan a piece of butter
+the size of a walnut, and set it on a good fire; when melted, put in it
+the hare's liver well pounded, then the blood, if any, also the
+drippings, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of white wine, same of broth,
+and one teaspoonful of vinegar; when of a proper thickness, serve with
+the hare.
+
+It takes about an hour to roast it well.
+
+In a small family, the hind part is roasted, and the fore part of the
+hare is dressed in civet.
+
+_Baked._--Lard it with salt pork and bake it, basting often: serve in
+the same way as a roasted one.
+
+_The same, next day._--If any is left from the day before, warm it and
+serve, if in civet; cut in slices and serve cold, with an oil-sauce, if
+roasted.
+
+_Leveret._--Cook and serve like a hare.
+
+A leveret may also be _sauted_ like a chicken.
+
+_Pheasant, to select._--When young, the claws are short and round at the
+end, while they are long and sharp when old. They are not fresh when the
+rump is of a bluish color, but some amateurs like them then; in that
+state, they are said to have a venison taste. Some hang the bird by the
+feathers of the tail and leave it so till it falls; then they prepare
+and eat it. It does not fall until very "high," or rather when tainted.
+They ought not to be cooked when very fresh, as they have not as
+delicate a taste then as when rather "high."
+
+_Pheasants_ are prepared, cooked, and served like _prairie-birds_ in
+every way.
+
+_Crane, Ostrich, Peacock, Pelican, or other Large Birds._--These birds
+are seldom eaten. When old, they are tough, and of a disagreeable taste.
+When young, they are not so bad, and may be prepared like a turkey
+stuffed or stewed.
+
+_Prairie-bird, Prairie-hen, and Partridge._--An old prairie-hen has a
+white bill and bluish legs; when young, the bill is of a rather
+dark-gray color, and the legs are yellowish. As long as the rump does
+not turn bluish, it is fresh enough.
+
+_To prepare._--Clean and prepare a prairie-hen as directed for poultry
+in general.
+
+_Baked._--Clean and prepare the bird as directed, then cut off the claws
+to about half their length. Truss the prairie-hen as directed for
+chicken, and then cover its breast with a thin slice of fat salt pork,
+but do not cover the back of the bird. Tie the salt pork with twine.
+Place the prairie-hen on its back in the baking-pan, with a piece of
+butter the size of a walnut on it; set it in a quick oven (about 400
+deg. Fahr.), baste often, and serve when rather underdone. While the
+bird is baking, prepare some fresh water-cress, place some of it all
+around the bird; mix lemon-juice with the gravy and turn it over the
+bird and water-cress, and serve warm. It may also be served after being
+baked, the same as directed for a roasted one.
+
+_Broiled._--Clean and prepare as directed, then split the back of the
+prairie-hen so as to open it; salt, pepper, and butter it by means of a
+brush; place it on the gridiron over a good fire; turn over three or
+four times; as soon as done, sprinkle on it a little allspice, dish the
+bird, spread a _maitre d'hotel_ sauce on it, and serve warm. It is also
+served with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, or _ravigote sauce_.
+
+_Another way._--Split the prairie-hen in two lengthwise so as to make
+two equal pieces. Put one ounce of butter in a stewpan and set it on a
+good fire; when melted, lay the two halves of the bird in; turn over and
+leave them till a little more than half cooked, when take them off.
+Envelop each piece in buttered paper, place them on the gridiron, and
+set it on a rather brisk fire for about fifteen minutes, turning over
+once only, and serve with the following sauce: Put with the butter in
+the pan in which was the bird, about a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+same of chopped mushrooms, salt, pepper, and a pinch of allspice;
+sprinkle in and stir at the same time a teaspoonful of flour; add a gill
+of white wine, same of broth; boil gently till of a proper thickness,
+and serve the bird with it, either on the same dish or separately. Serve
+as warm as possible.
+
+_With Cabbage._--Clean and truss the prairie-chicken as directed for
+birds; fry it a little with butter, just enough to color it; then place
+a cabbage, previously blanched, cut in four pieces, all around it; also
+about four ounces of lean salt pork, one onion whole; just cover the
+whole with cold water (it requires about one pint of it if the pan is of
+a proper size); when the cabbage is boiled down, baste occasionally with
+the juice, and if it boils away add a little broth or water; keep enough
+to baste till done, then dish the prairie-chicken with the cabbage
+around, also the salt pork if liked; turn the juice all over through a
+strainer. In case it is not salt enough, add salt while basting. The
+flesh of a prairie-chicken is naturally dry, and by being cooked with
+cabbage it is kept moist all the time and is juicy when done. For those
+who have no prejudice against cabbage, it is the best way to prepare a
+prairie-bird.
+
+_Another way._--Lard two prairie-birds as directed for larding, after
+being cleaned and prepared as directed. Put in a stewpan half a pound of
+bacon cut in slices, with four onions, two carrots cut in pieces, a
+small dried or Bologna sausage, two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, two
+cloves, a bay-leaf, a little grated nutmeg, and a cabbage cut rather
+fine, and which is to be previously thrown in boiling water and boiled
+ten minutes; then the two partridges or prairie-hens; place over the
+whole four ounces of bacon cut in thin slices, cover with broth, set the
+pan on a sharp fire, and when it has boiled about fifteen minutes,
+subdue the fire, or put the pan in a moderately heated oven, simmer
+about two hours if the partridges are old, and one hour if they are
+young; then take from the fire, place the partridges on a dish with the
+sausage cut in pieces around them, drain the cabbage and put it on
+another dish with the bacon, strain the sauce on both dishes, and serve.
+
+_In Chartreuse._--It is made in a mould for _Charlotte russe_, or in one
+like the cut following. Clean the prairie-hen as directed for birds;
+put it in a baking-pan with one ounce of butter spread on it, also salt
+and pepper, and a gill of cold water in the pan, and bake till
+underdone, when cut it in seven pieces, making three slices in the
+breast, lengthwise. Peel and slice two carrots and two turnips; cut the
+slices about an inch thick; then cut again in small round pieces, with a
+fruit-corer, about half an inch in diameter; set them on the fire with
+cold water and salt, boil gently till done, drain and turn immediately
+in cold water, and they are ready to be used. Put a small head of
+cabbage in a saucepan with half a pound of lean salt pork, just cover it
+with cold water, and boil gently till done. The prairie-hen, carrots,
+and turnips, and the cabbage, may be cooked at the same time, but
+separately, as directed. When the cabbage is done, turn it into a
+colander, cut it rather fine with a spoon, press gently on it to get the
+water out as much as possible without mashing it through the colander,
+and it is ready to be used. Butter the mould well; place slices of
+boiled beets on the bottom; some letters or flowers may be cut in beet,
+the intervals or holes filled with turnips and carrots; when the bottom
+is lined with beets, carrots, and turnips, lay horizontally a row of
+pieces of carrots all around and against the sides of the mould; place a
+similar one of turnips on the carrots, and so on, the last row being as
+high as the top of the mould. Then put a layer of the cabbage on the
+bottom, about half an inch thick--that is, on the carrots, turnips, and
+beets--place a like layer on the sides with a spoon; put the pieces of
+prairie-hen in the middle, cover with a layer of cabbage, and bake about
+fifteen minutes in an oven at about 350 deg. Fahr. The meat must not
+touch the carrots or turnips, but be entirely surrounded with cabbage,
+else it would crumble down in removing the mould. As soon as the mould
+is taken out of the oven, place a dish over it and turn it upside down,
+leave it so about ten minutes to allow the juice to come out, then
+remove the mould carefully, and serve.
+
+The cut below represents a _chartreuse_ made exactly like the one
+described above, with the exception that instead of having a row of
+carrots and a row of turnips, they are mixed, that is, placed
+alternately, the white spots representing pieces of turnips and the
+black spots pieces of carrots--the top being decorated according to
+fancy.
+
+According to the size of the mould, two, three, or more prairie-hens may
+be prepared at one time and in the same mould.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Roasted._--Rub the stomach and legs of the birds with lemon, then
+envelop those parts with slices of bacon tied with twine, or fixed with
+small skewers; after which envelop the whole bird in buttered paper tied
+with twine; place them on a spit before a good fire, take the paper off
+after twenty or thirty minutes, according to the age of the bird; leave
+two or three minutes longer, baste often during the process of roasting,
+with the drippings; dish the birds without removing the slices of bacon;
+mix in the gravy the juice of half a lemon, or half an orange, a little
+salt and pepper, and serve it with the birds. It may also be served
+with water-cress and lemon-juice or vinegar. When roasted or baked and
+dished, place carpels of oranges all around, and serve.
+
+A roasted or baked prairie-hen is also served with the following sauces:
+anchovy, caper, Champagne, cranberry, and _ravigote_ or tomato, and
+currant-jelly.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--When roasted or baked, serve it with a garniture of
+mushrooms. It is also served with a garniture of cauliflowers,
+_financiere_, _Macedoine_, and of truffles.
+
+_In Fricassee._--Prepare, cook, and serve it like chicken in
+_fricassee_.
+
+_In Crapaudine._--Proceed as for pigeons in _crapaudine_, the only
+difference being that it takes a little longer to cook. It is also
+prepared and served as a quail, _hunter-like_. It takes longer to cook
+than a quail.
+
+_Saute._--Clean, prepare, cut, cook, dish, and serve the prairie-bird as
+a chicken saute.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean, prepare, and truss the bird as directed. Put about one
+ounce of butter and two ounces of fat salt pork, cut in dice, in a
+saucepan, and set it on a quick fire; toss gently, and when the butter
+is melted, put the bird in and brown it all around; then add four small
+onions, half a carrot in slices, salt, and pepper; stir till the onions
+and carrot are partly fried; then add half a pint of broth, same of
+white wine, a bunch of seasonings composed of four or five stalks of
+parsley, one of thyme, one bay-leaf, and a clove; boil gently till done;
+dish the bird, turn the sauce over it through a strainer, and serve
+warm. Thus stewed, it may be served with the following _purees_:
+asparagus, beans, lentils, lima beans, mushrooms, and peas.
+
+_Cold._--A whole bird or part of it left from the preceding day's
+dinner, if it has been broiled, baked, or roasted, is prepared and
+served in salad, like a chicken salad; or in _salmis_.
+
+_Boned._--A boned prairie-bird makes an excellent dish and a most
+nutritious and warming one. Persons having a phlegmatic constitution
+ought to partake of it at least twice a week during hunting-time. Always
+select a very fresh and fat bird to bone. Pick, bone, fill, cook, and
+serve it as described for boned turkey. A prairie-hen is more easily
+boned, when fresh, than an ordinary chicken. The addition of truffles
+(about half a pound for one bird) makes it still richer and warmer.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Prepare, cook, and serve as chicken croquettes.
+
+_Quails._--A quail, like a prairie-bird, is old when it has a white bill
+and bluish legs; when young, the bill is of a rather dark-gray color,
+and the legs are yellowish. Quails are just the contrary of pheasants;
+the more fresh they are when cooked, the better.
+
+_To prepare._--When cleaned and prepared as directed for poultry, cut
+off the end of the claws, and then truss it as a chicken, sprinkle salt
+and pepper on the breast. Cut thin slices of fat salt pork, somewhat
+square, and of a proper size to cover the breast of the bird, but not
+the back. Tie it to the bird with two pieces of twine, then roast or
+bake.
+
+_Another way to prepare them._--When cleaned, prepared, and trussed as
+above, envelop the bird with grape-vine leaves, then in thin slices of
+salt-pork, and roast or bake them. They may also be enveloped in
+buttered paper, after being prepared, instead of salt pork or grape-vine
+leaves, or instead of both, but only to roast them; if baked, the
+buttered paper is placed over the birds.
+
+_Baked._--Place the birds on their backs in a baking-pan, with a piece
+of butter the size of a hazel-nut on each, just cover the bottom of the
+pan with cold water, and set in a quick oven (about 400 deg. Fahr.) and
+baste now and then. When about half done, put the liver of the birds,
+well pounded, in the baking-pan, and continue basting till done. While
+the quails are baking, cut as many square slices of stale bread as you
+have quails, about three inches broad and one-fourth of an inch thick;
+fry them in hot fat, place them on the dish, place a quail with the
+breast upward on each slice; remove the twine, turn the gravy over them
+and serve warm. Water-cress may be placed between each bird, as well as
+all around, and in the middle of the dish, with vinegar or lemon-juice
+sprinkled all over. It must also be served warm.
+
+_Hunter-like (au Chasseur)._--Clean and prepare as directed for birds.
+Set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter to melt, then put
+in it four quails trussed as for roasting; turn them round in the pan to
+color every side; add then half a dozen stalks of parsley, salt, pepper,
+and nearly cover them with broth and white wine, half of each; boil
+gently till done. Dish the quails, and put them away in a warm place.
+Strain the sauce and put it back on the fire with a tablespoonful of
+_meuniere_, boil rather fast till it commences turning thick, turn over
+the quails and serve warm.
+
+_Roasted._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, envelop the birds in
+grape-vine leaves and salt pork, or in buttered paper, as directed
+above, and place them on the spit before a moderate though good fire.
+Have slices of roasted bread in the dripping-pan, baste often with the
+drippings, and when done remove the twine, or the twine and paper, but
+neither the salt pork nor the grape-vine leaves, and serve warm. The
+slices of bread are placed on the dish, then a quail on each slice.
+Water-cress may also be served as above.
+
+Quails roasted with grape-vine leaves are considered one of the most
+_recherche_ dishes. When about half roasted, the liver of the birds,
+well pounded, is put in the dripping-pan, and the drippings are turned
+over the birds when dished. When pounded, the livers may be spread on
+the slices of bread before placing them in the dripping-pan.
+
+_With Green Peas._--When the quails are roasted or baked, they may be
+served with green peas _au jus_. They may also be served on a _puree_ of
+celery or of mushrooms.
+
+_In Chartreuse._--Proceed exactly as for a _chartreuse_ of prairie-bird.
+Quails may be served in every way like prairie-hens, _stewed_, in
+_salad_, in _salmis_, etc.
+
+_Rabbit--to select._--A rabbit, like almost every other kind of game,
+has a better taste when a little seasoned, but not too much so. As long
+as the body is rather stiff, it is good; but when soft, and when the
+flesh has a black-bluish appearance, it is necessary to examine it
+carefully, as it might be tainted. A young rabbit has soft paws, and are
+not much opened; but an old one has them open, hard, and worn out. The
+ears of a young one are very soft, while those of an old one are stiff
+and comparatively rough. The blood of the rabbit is a great improvement
+when mixed with the sauce or gravy accompanying it when served;
+therefore, we emphatically and earnestly ask of hunters, when they kill
+rabbits, to place them in their game-bags in such a position that the
+place where the shots have penetrated and through which the blood is
+escaping, be upward, and consequently stop the spilling of it.
+
+Tame rabbits, unless they have been kept in a large place, well fed,
+free from any manure or dirt, and having also plenty of room to burrow
+in a dry soil, are very seldom fit to eat.
+
+_To lard._--The fleshy parts of a rabbit are larded with salt pork in
+the same way as described for a fillet of beef.
+
+_Baked._--To bake it, it may be larded or not, according to taste. When
+cleaned and prepared as directed for game, place the rabbit in a
+baking-pan, with a few slices of onion and carrot; salt, pepper, and
+butter it; cover the bottom of the pan with cold water and set it in a
+quick oven. After ten or fifteen minutes, turn the rabbit over, baste
+and cover it with a piece of buttered paper. Continue basting till done.
+When about half done, if the water and juice are boiling away or
+absorbed, add more water or broth, and when done turn the gravy over the
+rabbit through a strainer, and serve with water-cress and a few drops of
+lemon-juice or vinegar.
+
+It is also served with a _cranberry_, _fines herbes_, _mushroom_,
+_piquante_, _ravigote_, _tomato_, and _truffle_ sauce.
+
+_In Chartreuse._--A rabbit is prepared in _chartreuse_ the same as a
+prairie-chicken; the only difference is, that it requires a larger
+mould; the rest of the process is the same.
+
+_In Civet, or stewed._--Cut the rabbit in pieces, and fry them with a
+little butter till turning rather brown, when add half a pound of lean
+salt pork cut in dice; stir and fry two or three minutes, stir in also a
+tablespoonful of flour; one minute after add a half pint of broth, same
+of claret wine, salt, twelve small onions, and a bunch of seasonings,
+composed of three or four sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, a
+clove of garlic, one clove. Boil gently till done; throw away the bunch
+of seasonings, and serve warm. In case it is not handy to use claret
+wine, use a gill of Madeira, or Port, or Sherry wine, and one gill of
+water. Without wine at all it makes an inferior dish.
+
+A civet made three or four days in advance, and warmed in a _bain-marie_
+for ten minutes, once every day, is better than if eaten as soon as
+made.
+
+In case the sauce is becoming too thick, after warming the rabbit
+several times, add a little broth, and also a little butter; stir
+gently, and always serve as warm as possible.
+
+_In Crapaudine._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, cook and serve
+the rabbit as described for pigeon in _crapaudine_, with the exception
+that it takes a little longer to cook.
+
+_In Croquettes._--What may be left from the preceding day's dinner of a
+baked, roasted, or stuffed rabbit, may be prepared in _croquettes_, in
+the same way as chicken _croquettes_.
+
+_With Currant-Jelly._--A rabbit served with currant-jelly makes a
+sightly dish, but it requires care and taste. Skin the rabbit carefully,
+leaving the ears unskinned. Cut the legs at the first joint, then dip
+the ears in hot (but not boiling) water, and scrape off the hair
+carefully. Draw it and wash the inside carefully also, putting away the
+liver, heart, and lungs. Chop fine one middling-sized onion, and fry it
+with about one ounce of butter; then add to the onion, and fry them
+also, the heart, liver, and lungs of the rabbit, after being chopped
+fine, when add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg
+grated, and a piece of clove also grated. Stir for about one minute,
+take from the fire, mix with it two yolks of eggs and one ounce of
+butter. Fill the rabbit with the mixture, sew up the incision made to
+draw it, and then truss it in the following way: Put the rabbit on the
+paste-board so that it appears as if it were resting, lying on its
+belly. Skewer the ears so that they seem to be naturally bent on the
+back of the neck. With a trussing-needle fasten the forelegs so that
+they look also as if naturally bent by the animal when at rest. Roast or
+bake it, and serve it with the gravy and _currant_ or _raspberry jelly_.
+
+It is placed on the dish lying on its belly, the skewers and twine are
+removed, and a few sprigs of parsley are placed in its mouth. The
+currant-jelly may be served in a saucer and the gravy in another.
+
+_In Gibelotte._--The only difference between a _gibelotte_ and a civet
+is that the latter is made with claret wine and the former with Sauterne
+or Catawba. Other white wine may be used, but the two kinds above
+mentioned are the best.
+
+_Marengo._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, cut the rabbit in
+pieces; keep the head, neck, and trimmings, to make a potage _au
+chasseur_, and cook and serve the rest as a chicken _a la Marengo_.
+
+_In Papillotes._--The four legs and two pieces cut on both sides of the
+backbone may be prepared, cooked, and served as veal cutlets in
+_papillotes_. The rest is used to make a potage _au chasseur_.
+
+_With Olives._--When baked or roasted, serve it as a duck with olives,
+putting three dozen olives instead of two.
+
+_Roasted._--It may be roasted with only a little butter spread all over
+it, or enveloped in buttered paper; or larded with salt pork; or larded
+and enveloped in buttered paper. It must be basted often, and if
+enveloped with paper, the paper must be removed about fifteen minutes
+before taking the rabbit from the fire. Ascertain when done by means of
+a skewer or a small sharp-pointed knife. It takes about forty-five
+minutes to roast, according to size and fire. When roasted it may be
+served with its gravy or drippings only, or with a _cranberry_, _fines
+herbes_, _mushroom_, _piquante_, _Provencale_, _ravigote_, _Tartar_,
+_tomato_, _or truffle_ sauce.
+
+_With Green Peas._--When baked or roasted, serve it with green peas _au
+jus_.
+
+_Saute._--When the rabbit is cleaned and prepared as directed, proceed
+as for a chicken _saute_ in every particular.
+
+_Sportsman-like._--Clean and prepare the rabbit, then cut off the neck,
+head, and the end of the legs, which you keep to make a potage _au
+chasseur_. Put the rest in a crockery vessel with the juice of a lemon,
+salt, and pepper. Leave thus for at least one day, turning it over two
+or three times. Then bake or roast it, and serve with the gravy and
+water-cress.
+
+_Stewed._--When cleaned and prepared, cut the rabbit in pieces. Put in a
+saucepan three ounces of butter and set it on the fire; as soon as
+melted, put the pieces of rabbit in, stir now and then till they are
+turning rather brown, then take them from the pan but keep it on the
+fire. Put in it a rather small carrot and two or three onions, both
+sliced, a few slices of turnip, half a dozen sprigs of parsley, two of
+celery, one of thyme, the last three tied together with twine, and two
+or three cloves, also half a pint of Madeira or Sherry wine, salt, and
+pepper; cover the whole with broth or water; boil gently till half done,
+when add the rabbit, and continue boiling till the whole is done,
+stirring once in a while. Dish the rabbit, mash the onions, carrot, and
+turnip, through a colander, which you put all around the pieces of
+rabbit, strain the sauce over the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_Cold._--What is left is warmed and served, if from a civet, giblotte,
+stewed, etc., and served with a _vinaigrette_, if from a roasted or
+baked piece. It may also be served with a _piquante_, _poivrade_, or
+_ravigote_ sauce.
+
+_Snipe--to truss._--Prepare as directed for poultry. Cut the wings off
+just above the second joint, as seen in the cut below. The head and legs
+must be cleaned very carefully. By heating the lower part of the legs
+and the claws, the skin can be easily removed, but this is not
+necessary, they may be singed and washed only. Fold the legs and run the
+bill of the bird through the two legs and the body. Put a slice of fat
+salt pork on the breast of the snipe, which you fasten there with twine,
+as seen in the cut below. The cut represents the bird on the spit, ready
+for roasting.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Stewed._--Take four snipes and pound the livers, hearts, and lungs well
+with about the same amount of fat salt pork; then add to them about a
+teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, and the yolk of an egg; divide the
+mixture in four parts and put each part in a bird, which you sew and
+truss as directed. Line the bottom of a stewpan with slices of salt pork
+and lay the snipe on them; set on a slow fire for ten minutes, add about
+half a pint of white wine, same of broth; simmer till done, dish the
+birds, strain the gravy on them, sprinkle a few drops of lemon-juice
+over the whole, and serve warm. Snipes are served in several ways, as
+described for bobolinks and other small birds.
+
+_Salmis._--A salmis is made with tame ducks and any kind of game birds.
+
+Birds may be roasted or baked to make a _salmis_, but most generally it
+is made with cold birds, that is, what is left from the previous day's
+dinner. It is certainly the best way to make use of cold birds. The
+proportions of the different seasonings are according to the proportion
+of meat. We give below the proportions for a whole bird; it will be easy
+to augment or reduce. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan and set it
+on the fire; as soon as melted stir into it a tablespoonful of flour;
+when turning rather yellow add one pint of broth, same of claret wine, a
+bunch of seasonings composed of four or five sprigs of parsley, one of
+thyme, a bay-leaf and a clove, also salt, pepper, and a clove of garlic;
+boil gently about thirty-five minutes. Strain the sauce into a saucepan.
+Cut the bird or part of bird in pieces, the same as they are generally
+carved; put them in the pan with the sauce; place the saucepan in a
+_bain-marie_ till the meat is warm, add some lemon-juice, and serve.
+While the meat is warming, cut some stale bread in _croutons_, fry them
+with a little butter.
+
+_To serve._--A _salmis_ is served in two ways: first, the _croutons_ are
+placed on the dish, a piece of meat is put on each, and then the sauce
+is poured all over; second, dish the meat and sauce, place the
+_croutons_ all around the dish, with a piece of lemon or bitter orange
+between each _crouton_. When the _croutons_ are served under the pieces
+of meat, you must have as many as there are pieces; when served around
+the dish, have enough of them, and of slices of lemon, to surround the
+dish. The _croutons_ and slices of lemon are always placed around the
+meat and on the border of the dish. The lemon or orange is first split
+in two lengthwise, then cut in eight, twelve, or sixteen slices, always
+commencing to cut on the inside and finishing by the rind. Chop fine the
+bones, heart, and liver of the bird, and put them in the saucepan at the
+same time with the broth. Truffles or mushrooms sliced may be added to
+the sauce, if liked, but only when strained.
+
+_Another._--Carve the bird or part of it, and serve cold with the
+following sauce; pound the liver of the bird and put it in a saucer; add
+to it a little vinegar, salt, pepper, and stir and mix the whole; then
+add about three times as much oil as vinegar, mix again, then
+lemon-juice, stir, and serve. It may be made without vinegar at all,
+using lemon-juice instead of vinegar to mix at first.
+
+
+  OPOSSUM, OTTER, RACCOON, SKUNK, FOX, WOODCHUCK, AND OTHER LIKE ANIMALS.
+
+We cannot say that we have had much experience in cooking the above
+animals, but they are all eaten by many persons, in different parts of
+this and other countries. We have tasted of all or them except the
+raccoon, and we must say that we found them palatable. It is well known
+that when our soldiers retook possession of Ship Island, they found
+plenty of raccoons on it, and ate all they could catch. One day we
+happened to meet a sub-officer, who was there at the time, and inquired
+of him about it. He said he had never eaten any raccoons before, and did
+not know that they were eatable; but now he could eat them as readily as
+rabbit, as they were quite as good.
+
+The best time to eat any of the animals enumerated above is from
+Christmas to the 15th of February.
+
+_How to prepare them._--As soon as the animal is killed skin it, take
+the inside out, save the liver and heart, and wash well with lukewarm
+water and a little salt, inside and out; then wipe dry with a towel, put
+inside a few leaves of sage, bay-leaves, mint, and thyme, and sew it up.
+Hang it outside in a place sheltered from the sun, such as the northern
+side of a building; leave it thus five or six days, then take off, and
+cook.
+
+_How to skin a Skunk._--We were hunting one day in New Jersey, northwest
+of Paterson, with a friend and two farmers living there, when one of
+them shot a skunk. We asked him how much he could get for the skin. He
+said it was not worth while to take it to town, but that he would eat
+the animal, as it was very good.
+
+We thought at first that he was joking; but putting his gun and game-bag
+to the ground, he looked at us earnestly, and said, "Gentlemen, you seem
+to doubt; I will show you how it is done." We soon saw that we had been
+mistaken.
+
+We made a fire, took hold of the skunk by the head with one hand, and
+with a stick in the other held the skunk over the fire. He burnt off
+nearly all the hair, taking care to avoid burning the skin, commencing
+at the hind legs; then with his hunting-knife he carefully cut off the
+bag containing the fetid matter, and skinned and cleaned it.
+
+We then examined the skunk, and although it had not been washed, we
+could not find any part of it with a bad smell, and if we had not seen
+the whole operation we certainly would not have thought that it was a
+skunk, the very name of which is repulsive.
+
+The following week we dined with the farmer, ate some of that identical
+skunk, and found it very good.
+
+_How to cook the above-named Animals._--Take out the leaves of sage,
+etc., which you put in the animal before exposing it to the weather.
+Pound well the liver and heart with about the same quantity of bacon,
+then mix that with two or three teaspoonfuls of chopped parsley, a pinch
+of grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper; stuff the animal with that mixture,
+and also with six small onions fried in butter, and a bunch of seasoning
+composed of four sprigs of parsley, three of thyme, two cloves, two
+cloves of garlic, and two bay-leaves, and sew it up again. Butter it
+well all over, place it on a spit before a very quick fire; put three or
+four sage-leaves in the dripping-pan, and baste often with the
+drippings. Serve it when cooked with the gravy, throwing away the
+sage-leaves.
+
+It may also be served with a _Mayonnaise_, _ravigote_, or _Tartar_
+sauce.
+
+_Squirrel._--A squirrel is prepared as a rabbit in every particular.
+
+
+  VENISON.
+
+If young, the hoof is not much opened, and the fat is thick and clear;
+when old, the hoofs are wide open. To know if it is fresh enough, run a
+knife or a skewer through the leg or through the shoulder, and if it
+does not smell bad and stale, it is good. It is not as delicate when
+fresh as when it has been killed for five or six days. If fresh when you
+buy it, keep it from three to eight days before cooking it.
+
+_To improve._--Put the piece of venison in a crockery vessel. For about
+six pounds put a pint of vinegar in a saucepan with two bay-leaves, two
+cloves, two cloves of garlic, one onion sliced, two stalks of thyme,
+four of parsley, and twelve pepper-corns; set it on the fire, give one
+boil, and turn over the piece of venison. Turn the piece of meat over
+occasionally for one or two days, and then cook it.
+
+_Another way._--Lard the piece of venison and put it in a crockery
+vessel; spread all over two or three onions and a clove or two of garlic
+(both sliced), half a gill of sweet-oil, same of claret wine, a pinch of
+allspice, four cloves, and two sprigs of thyme; baste twice a day for
+two or three days, and then cook.
+
+_To bake._--Put the venison in a baking-pan with the seasonings in which
+it has improved; spread some butter on it, and bake in a rather quick
+oven; baste now and then, and turn over if necessary. When baked, serve
+with a _ravigote_ sauce, to which you have added the gravy from the pan
+in which it has been baked. Serve it also with a cranberry, _piquante_,
+_Robert_, or _Tartar_ sauce, or with currant-jelly.
+
+_In Civet._--Shoulder, neck, and breast-pieces are cut and prepared in
+civet, in the same way as a civet of rabbit.
+
+It may also be kept three or four days and warmed in a _bain-marie_; it
+improves it as much as that of rabbit.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Any piece of venison, baked or roasted, may be served
+with a garniture of mushrooms.
+
+_Cutlets, broiled._--The cutlets are much better when improved as
+directed. The seasonings are spread all over. They are then wrapped up
+in buttered paper and broiled on a quick fire. They may also be larded
+with salt pork, and then broiled with or without being enveloped in
+paper. When broiled and dished, serve them warm with a _maitre d'hotel_
+or _ravigote_ sauce.
+
+_Sautees._--Put six cutlets in a stewpan, larded or not, with salt,
+pepper, eight small onions, two carrots, four sprigs of parsley, two of
+thyme, two cloves, a bay-leaf, a gill of broth, and same of water; set
+it on a good fire and boil gently till cooked. Dish the cutlets so that
+every small end or bone rests on the larger end of another, and serve
+with the sauce strained on them. If more sauce is desired, add to it any
+of the following: cranberry, _piquante_, _ravigote_, _Robert_, or
+_Tartar_.
+
+_Haunch, roasted._--After being improved, if liked, remove the thin skin
+around it and lard it with salt pork; it may be roasted without larding,
+but it is certainly an improvement, the meat being naturally dry. Place
+it on the spit before a brisk fire and near it; baste with melted butter
+first, and then with the drippings till done. If it is larded, it will
+require less butter. As soon as a kind of crust forms around the meat,
+remove it a little from the fire by degrees. Ascertain with a skewer or
+small knife when done. Venison is generally served rather underdone,
+when roasted or baked.
+
+To make the dish more sightly, the skin and hair of the lower part of
+the leg, together with the hoof, are left untouched. To prevent them
+from burning while it is roasting, envelop these parts with a wet towel,
+which you cover with several sheets of buttered or oiled paper. It may
+be necessary to dip the towel in water two or three times during the
+process of roasting. When roasted, serve with any of the following
+sauces: cranberry, _piquante_, _poivrade_, _ravigote_, _Robert_, or
+_Tartar_; also with currant-jelly. If served with the gravy only, add
+water-cress and lemon-juice or vinegar.
+
+_Baked._--Prepare it as directed for roasting; then place it in a
+bakepan with a little cold water, just enough to cover the bottom of the
+pan; sprinkle salt and pepper all over, spread some butter on the upper
+side and put in a quick oven. Turn over and baste now and then till
+done. If the water is absorbed, add more. When baked, serve with the
+same sauces as if roasted, and also with currant-jelly and water-cress.
+
+_Saddle._--Roast or bake the saddle, and serve it as directed for a
+haunch, with the same sauces, and also with water-cress and
+currant-jelly.
+
+_Shoulder._--Cut the shoulder in fillets and lard them slightly. Put in
+a stewpan four ounces of butter and set it on a brisk fire; when hot,
+lay the fillets in, and when of a golden color add the seasonings in
+which you have improved the saddle, or the same ones if you have not
+done it; then subdue the fire, wet with a little warm broth, simmer till
+cooked, dish the fillets, strain the sauce on them, and serve. It may
+also be dressed entire, with the bones off; but it is more generally
+done in fillets. It is boned like a shoulder of mutton, and roasted or
+baked, and served like a haunch, with the same sauces and with
+currant-jelly or water-cress.
+
+_Stewed._--Cut the meat in square pieces, about two inches in size. Have
+in a stewpan, and on a good fire, a piece of butter the size of a duck's
+egg; when melted, sprinkle in, little by little, a tablespoonful of
+flour, stirring the while with a wooden spoon; when getting rather
+thick, add two ounces of bacon cut in dice, also half a pint of claret
+wine, same of warm water, salt, pepper, a pinch of allspice, two
+shallots chopped fine, or two green onions, four or five mushrooms, two
+cloves of garlic, and six onions; then lay the meat on the whole, and
+boil gently till cooked. Dish the meat, boil the sauce till of a
+brownish color, skim off the fat if there is too much of it, take out
+the cloves of garlic, turn the sauce on the meat, and serve hot.
+
+_With Truffles or Mushrooms._--Any part of venison, baked or roasted,
+may be served with a garniture of mushrooms, or one of truffles.
+
+_Cold._--When you have some left for the next day, warm it before
+serving it, if from a stew; but if from a roasted haunch, cut in slices
+and serve cold with a _vinaigrette_.
+
+
+  SNAILS.
+
+A good many are now imported from Europe.
+
+_How to clean and prepare._--Throw them in boiling water, in which you
+have put some wood-ashes; leave them in till they have thrown their
+cover wide open, which will take about fifteen minutes; then take them
+off, pull them out of the shell by means of a fork, place them in
+lukewarm water, and leave two hours; next, rub them in your hands, and
+then soak in cold water; rub them again in your hands in cold water, two
+or three times, changing the water each time, so as to take away most of
+their sliminess. Wash the shells in lukewarm water with a
+scrubbing-brush, and drain them when clean.
+
+_Broiled._--Knead together and make a paste of a sufficient quantity of
+butter, parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg; say about
+two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of parsley, a saltspoonful of
+salt, a pinch of pepper, and the same of nutmeg (for two dozen). Put a
+piece of the above paste, the size of a kidney bean, in each shell, then
+the snails, and at the top again the same quantity of paste; lay them
+one by one close together, in a crockery or cast-iron kettle, the mouth
+of the snails up, and not one upon another; cover the kettle well; set
+it on a moderate fire, or in a moderately heated oven, and leave thus
+till cooked, which is easily seen by the parsley beginning to turn
+black, or as if fried. Lay them on a dish in the same order, and if
+there is any gravy in the kettle, put a part of it in each shell, and
+serve hot.
+
+In eating them, be careful after having taken off the snail and eaten
+it, to turn down the shell, for there is some juice in the bottom of it
+which is delicious; the best way is to drink it as if from the bottom of
+a glass.
+
+They can be broiled on a gridiron, but they are not as good as in a
+kettle; some of the juice is lost, and also the flavor.
+
+_Stewed._--Put in a stewpan four ounces of butter for fifty snails, and
+set it on a good fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of
+flour, stirring a while; then add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine,
+two sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, a pint of white wine, and then the
+snails, which you have previously put back into their shells; cover the
+whole with warm broth, boil gently till the sauce is reduced and the
+snails are cooked, and serve them mouth upward, and filled with the
+sauce.
+
+
+
+
+  VEGETABLES.
+
+
+Green vegetables must look fresh, and have nothing rotten about them.
+
+_To boil or blanch Green Vegetables._--Whatever they are, spinach, green
+peas, asparagus, etc., put some cold water and a little salt on the
+fire; clean the vegetable, wash it if necessary, then drop it in the
+water at the first boil; keep boiling for a time or till done; drain,
+and immediately drop it in cold water; drain again before using. It is
+impossible to tell how long it takes to boil; it depends entirely on the
+nature of the vegetable: for instance, spinach, as well as peas or any
+other vegetable, according to how tender it is, may take from three to
+twenty minutes to cook properly. Dry vegetables, such as beans, peas,
+lentils, etc., are washed or soaked in cold water, drained, and then set
+on the fire with cold water and no salt. Salt renders beans much harder
+and retards their cooking. Other vegetables that are neither green nor
+dry, such as carrots, turnips, etc., are generally set on the fire with
+cold water and salt. If prepared in other ways, it is explained in the
+receipts.
+
+Potatoes are generally steamed; when they must be boiled, it is
+explained. We recommend to drop the green vegetables in the water at the
+first boil, because, in boiling, water evaporates its gases and alkali,
+and is therefore inferior for cooking purposes. Green vegetables are
+more acid here than in Europe, on account of the newness and richness of
+the soil; so is some fruit.
+
+_Artichokes_.--The artichoke we refer to here is the plant somewhat
+resembling a thistle, having a large, scaly head, like the cone of the
+pine-tree; the lower part of the leaves composing the head, with the
+broad receptacle underneath, is the eatable part. It is a native of
+Sicily, and is an excellent and delicate vegetable. It grows well here,
+and the reason why it is not more generally known is because some
+persons who are used to live on coarse food have underrated it--their
+palates not being fit to appreciate its delicate flavor. We recommend
+gardeners and farmers to cultivate it; they will find a ready market.
+
+_How to eat them raw_.--Quarter them, take off the outer leaves and
+choke, and serve with oil, vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper.
+
+_How to cook_.--Clean them and take off the outer leaves, throw them
+into boiling water, with parsley, salt, and pepper (they are cooked when
+the leaves come off easily), then take from the fire and drain, taking
+care to put them upside down.
+
+_The same, fried_.--When cooked as above, cut the upper part of the
+leaves, and then cut them in eight pieces, take the choke off, dip each
+piece in a thin paste made of flour, sweet-oil, beaten egg, vinegar,
+salt, and pepper, and fry them with a little butter. Serve them with
+sprigs of fried parsley around.
+
+_The same, stewed_.--When cooked as directed above, cut them in four
+pieces, and trim off the upper part of the leaves, take off the choke,
+and lay them in a stewpan; cover them with broth and set on a moderate
+fire; add then one ounce of butter for six artichokes, one sprig of
+parsley, and two mushrooms cut in slices; boil ten minutes, take the
+parsley off, and serve the artichokes with the mushrooms around; pour
+the sauce on the whole.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Cook, and serve with a _vinaigrette_. The Jerusalem
+artichokes are dressed like potatoes.
+
+_Asparagus._--This is thought to be a native of Asia. The white
+asparagus sells dearer than the other kinds, but we cannot say that it
+is on account of its better quality, it is most likely for being more
+sightly when served. If it is kept for some time before boiling it,
+place the bunch in about half an inch deep of cold water, the top
+upward, and keep in a cool place. There are only four ways of preparing
+asparagus without changing or destroying the natural taste of the plant.
+The large ones, or what is called the first cut, is prepared in
+_vinaigrette_, _white sauce_, and _fried_; the small one, or second cut,
+is cooked _en petits pois_--like green peas. It is better and has more
+taste when boiled rather underdone, that is, taken from the water when
+still firm; if boiled till soft, it loses its taste and is not crisp.
+
+_To boil._--Cut off some of the white part, so as to have the whole of
+one length if possible; then scrape the white end a little, soak in cold
+water for a few minutes, and drain. Tie it in small bunches of half a
+dozen or a dozen, according to size, and drop them in boiling water and
+a little salt, at the first boil of the water. Boil till rather
+underdone, take off, drain and drop in cold water immediately. Drain
+again, and it is ready to serve.
+
+_En Petits Pois._--Cut small asparagus in pieces about half an inch
+long, and blanch them for three minutes. Take off and drain; then put
+them in a saucepan on the fire with two or three tablespoonfuls of
+broth, stir now and then for about two minutes, add a teaspoonful of
+flour; stir again, and as soon as mixed with the asparagus add also
+about one ounce of butter, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, stir, and,
+when the butter is melted, serve.
+
+_Fried._--Blanch the asparagus two minutes, drain it; dip each in batter
+and fry in hot fat. Take off with a skimmer when done; and turn into a
+colander, salt it, and serve hot.
+
+_In Vinaigrette._--Boil it as directed. When cold, serve with a
+_vinaigrette_. (This is also called _a l'huile_.)
+
+_With White Sauce._--While it is boiling, make a white sauce; drain the
+asparagus and serve both, sauce and vegetable, warm. The asparagus is
+not dropped in cold water.
+
+_With Cream Sauce._--It is prepared and served as with a white sauce.
+
+_In Omelet._--Boil the asparagus as directed, and when cool cut it in
+small pieces about half an inch long, and when the omelet is ready to be
+folded in two, a little while before taking from the fire, place the
+asparagus in the middle, then fold and serve the omelet as if there were
+nothing in it.
+
+_Green or String Beans_, _Dwarf or Snap Beans_, _French Haricots_, _Pole
+Beans_, _Kidney Beans_, _etc._--_To prepare them when green and cooked
+with the pods._--Remove the string or thread that is on both sides, by
+partly breaking one end of the pod and pulling lengthwise, repeat the
+same for the other side; cut them in pieces half an inch long, soak them
+in cold water, and throw them into boiling water with a little salt.
+Boil them till cooked, which you will know by pressing one between your
+fingers to see if tender; take them from the fire, throw them into cold
+water to cool, and drain them.
+
+_Au jus._--Cook a quart of beans. Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan
+and set it on the fire; when melted, put the beans in with a teaspoonful
+of chopped parsley; stir five minutes; then add a gill of broth, salt,
+and pepper; simmer twenty minutes, and, just on taking from the fire,
+mix in it two well-beaten yolks of eggs, with the juice of half a lemon,
+and serve.
+
+_Maitre d'hotel._--Put in a stewpan two ounces of butter, and set it on
+a good fire; when melted, put in it a quart of beans cooked in water,
+with a pinch of grated nutmeg, half a pint of milk, salt, pepper, and a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley; keep stirring continually, boil ten
+minutes, take from the fire, mix in it two beaten yolks of eggs, and
+serve.
+
+_The same, with Onions._--Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set
+it on the fire; when hot, put in it two onions cut in slices, and fry
+them. Then add salt, pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a saltspoonful of
+chopped parsley, and a quart of beans cooked in water; also half a pint
+of boiling water; boil ten minutes, stir with a wooden spoon, take from
+the fire, sprinkle in it a few drops of vinegar, and serve.
+
+_The same, in Salad._--Cook the beans in water, as directed above; then
+put a layer of them in a crockery vessel, the layer to be about one inch
+thick; then sprinkle on it salt and pepper; repeat the same process till
+all your beans are in; cover and leave thus three or four hours; then
+throw away the water, or drain if convenient; place the beans in a
+salad-dish, with the sweet-oil, vinegar, and parsley necessary; move
+like a salad, and serve cold.
+
+_Green, shelled, Lima, or other Beans._--Shell the beans, throw them in
+boiling water with a little salt, and when cooked drain them. Put two
+ounces of butter for a quart of beans in a saucepan, and when melted
+put the beans in with salt and pepper; toss gently now and then for
+three or four minutes, then add about a teaspoonful of vinegar, or the
+juice of half a lemon, and half a teaspoonful of parsley chopped. Mix
+and serve warm. They may also be prepared as string-beans, either _au
+jus_, in _maitre d'hotel_, or in _salad_.
+
+_Dry Beans, Lima, White or Colored._--Dry beans must be soaked in water
+for some time. Some require to be soaked twenty-four hours, others only
+five or six hours. Those that require to be soaked long are not from the
+last harvest, but have been kept for two or more years. If you are not
+sure that the beans (especially the white) are from this year's crop,
+soak them for twenty-four hours in cold water, and then drain them.
+
+_To boil._--Put the beans in a saucepan with cold water, and boil gently
+till tender. If the water boils away, fill up with cold water, but never
+put any salt to boil dry beans, it prevents them from cooking. As soon
+as boiled tender, drain them, and they are ready for use.
+
+_Au jus._--When boiled as above, set them on the fire in a stewpan with
+a few tablespoonfuls of gravy or broth, salt, and a little butter, stir
+for two or three minutes, then add a little chopped parsley, and serve
+warm.
+
+_Maitre d'hotel._--When boiled as above, drain and put them in a
+saucepan with about three ounces of butter for a quart of beans, stir
+now and then, and when the butter is melted, add salt, pepper, a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and a few drops of vinegar; just mix and
+serve.
+
+_With Salt Pork._--Boil a quart of beans as directed above, and drain
+them. Cut in dice about half a pound of bacon and put it in a saucepan
+on the fire; when about half fried add the beans, mix and stir for one
+minute, then put in a warm oven for about twenty minutes, stirring
+occasionally; when done, sprinkle on it some parsley chopped fine,
+pepper and salt to taste, if not salt enough. There are several ways of
+preparing "pork and beans," but the one we give above is the most
+general in New England. The pork must neither be too fat nor too lean.
+It may be done also with ham and fresh pork.
+
+_With Mutton._--Boil as directed about three pints of white beans and
+drain them. When the leg of mutton is about half roasted, put the beans
+in the dripping-pan, and stir occasionally till the meat is done, and
+serve them with it. It makes a very nourishing dish, but it would be
+rather heavy for persons having sedentary avocations. Two quarts of
+beans would not be too much for a good-sized leg of mutton. It may also
+be prepared with any other piece of mutton; shoulder, saddle, etc.
+
+_Boiled with Mutton or Pork._--Prepare a quart of beans as directed, and
+then boil them ten minutes and drain them. Cut in rather large dice
+about two pounds of breast or neck of mutton or the same of pork, and of
+the same pieces, and put meat and beans in a stewpan, cover well with
+cold water; season with a bunch of seasonings composed of five or six
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and two cloves, salt,
+pepper, a little nutmeg grated, a carrot cut in three or four pieces,
+two onions, and a piece of turnip. Boil gently till the whole is
+thoroughly cooked; remove the seasonings, and serve meat and beans
+together. This makes also a nourishing dish and not an expensive one.
+The nutritive qualities of beans are very well known, and very much
+exaggerated too. Even Professor Liebig once said that "four quarts of
+beans and two pounds of corned beef or pork boiled to rags, in fifty
+quarts of water, will furnish a good meal for forty men."
+
+We must say that we have not been able to try the experiment, but we
+should like very much to see what kind and how much work forty men would
+do, and for how long, with such a diet. There are many things that look
+or seem well, and even magnificent in theory, though entirely
+impracticable. It sounds well, especially to those who do not understand
+the meaning of it, to say that we feed mostly on gluten, albumen,
+gelatine, etc., and that we require so many ounces of carbon, oxygen,
+etc., in twenty-four hours. Every thing that we eat may be, with the
+exception of salt, turned into charcoal; but no one has yet been known
+to feed on it.
+
+_Colored Beans, stewed._--Soak, boil five minutes, and drain a quart of
+beans. Put in a stewpan half a pound of bacon and set it on the fire;
+five minutes after, put the beans in, with four small onions, salt, and
+pepper, boil gently till cooked, and drain. Put two ounces of butter in
+a stewpan on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of
+flour, same of chopped parsley, then the beans, without the bacon and
+onions; toss now and then for ten minutes, then add half a pint of
+claret wine, the same of the water in which they were cooked, boil
+gently twenty minutes; then put in it also the bacon and onions, boil
+five minutes longer, and serve the whole on the same dish.
+
+_Beets, stewed._--Clean and wash well, but do not skin them. Put in a
+crockery vessel a layer of rye straw, moisten it slightly, place the
+beets on it, cover the vessel, and place it in a slow oven for five or
+six hours; cool and skin them. When cooked, cut them in thin slices. Put
+butter in a stewpan, and when melted sprinkle in it a pinch of flour, a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, then the beets; simmer
+twenty minutes, add a few drops of vinegar, and serve.
+
+_Cabbages--to boil._--Take off the outer leaves, clean, cut in four
+pieces, free it from stump and stalk, and drop it in boiling water with
+a little salt and a piece of charcoal. Boil slowly till tender, and
+drain. Cabbage contains some sulphur, and evaporates an unpleasant odor
+while boiling, and especially while boiling fast. By putting a piece of
+charcoal in the pot, it does not smell as much.
+
+_With Bacon._--When boiled and drained, put the cabbage in a stewpan
+with bacon, sausage, and a piece of breast of mutton; cover with cold
+water, season with three or four sprigs of parsley, a carrot, a clove, a
+little nutmeg, salt and pepper; boil till the whole is well cooked,
+remove the seasonings and drain; dish the cabbage, put the meat on it,
+and serve warm.
+
+_With Milk, or a la Creme._--Boil and drain the cabbage as directed
+above. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan, set it on a good fire,
+and when melted put the cabbage in with salt and pepper. Sprinkle on it
+a teaspoonful of flour, add half a pint of cream or good milk; keep
+stirring with a wooden spoon during the whole process; boil gently till
+the sauce is reduced, and serve warm.
+
+_Stewed._--Boil and drain two large heads of cabbage, and cut them very
+fine. Put about three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and
+when melted put the cabbage in and stir for five minutes; then add salt,
+pepper, and a pinch of flour; wet with a pint of broth, boil till cooked
+and the sauce reduced, then serve warm.
+
+_A l'Allemande._--Blanch for ten minutes some white or green cabbage and
+drain it. Put six ounces of salt pork, cut in dice, in a saucepan on the
+fire, and when partly fried put two or three small heads of cabbage in,
+stir, and when done, add a little gravy, and serve warm.
+
+_With Apples._--Blanch for about ten minutes a head of cabbage and
+drain it. Put two or three ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire,
+and put the cabbage in when the butter is melted with four or five
+apples peeled, quartered, and cored; also a little salt and a little
+sugar, about half a pint of water or broth, boil gently till done, and
+serve as warm as possible. Generally, cabbages are better when prepared
+at least one day in advance, and then warmed in a _bain-marie_ before
+serving; a little butter may be added while it is warming. Any kind of
+cabbage is prepared as directed in the above ways.
+
+_Red Cabbage in Salad._--Take a hard head of red cabbage, and when all
+the outer leaves are removed, see if it is clean, but do not wash it; if
+a cabbage is not clean, do not use it for salad (as you want a hard one,
+and a hard one is always clean when the outer leaves are taken off).
+Then cut it in four pieces, trim off the stump and coarse ends of the
+leaves; cut it as thin as possible, as in making sour-krout, put it in a
+crockery vessel, with salt, vinegar, and pepper sprinkled on, cover and
+leave thus from four to six hours; then throw away the water or vinegar,
+dress as another salad, with oil and vinegar, and serve.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Blanch the cabbage for about ten minutes and drain
+it; then put it in a saucepan with about an ounce of butter and stir for
+five minutes, when add a little salt, a little sugar, a gill of claret
+wine, and same of broth or water. Boil gently till done, and serve.
+
+_Stuffed._--Remove the outer leaves of either a green, white, or red
+cabbage, see that it be clean, then put it in a bowl, and pour boiling
+water on it. Leave it so till the leaves are soft and pliable, when take
+off and drain. Cut off the stump carefully, place the cabbage on the
+table, the top upward, then open it gently by spreading the leaves all
+around without breaking them; then, commencing with the centre leaves,
+put some sausage-meat between the leaves, finishing with the outer ones
+and raising them; that is, bringing the cabbage to its original shape as
+much as possible, and then tie it all around with twine. Put in a
+saucepan large enough to hold the cabbage easily, but not too large, a
+little salt pork, cut in small dice, rind of salt pork and trimmings of
+butcher's meat that you may have, but if none at all, put a little lean
+salt pork or bacon, and cut in dice also, half a carrot in slices, two
+onions in slices also, and then the cabbage on the whole. Half cover it
+with broth; water may be used instead of broth, but it makes a very
+inferior dish, while with broth it is unquestionably an excellent one
+for those who like cabbages. Simmer for two or three hours, according to
+the size of the cabbage. A piece of sausage may be placed on the cabbage
+also and cooked with it. Then dish the cabbage, remove the twine tying
+it; place the sausage around and also the salt pork if liked, strain the
+sauce on the whole, and serve warm. If the water or broth boils away
+while it is cooking, add more.
+
+_Sour-krout._--Soak in cold water for some time, changing the water
+three or four times; then put it in a stewpan with a pound of bacon, two
+ounces of sausages, and two ounces of lard to every quart of sour-krout,
+salt, and pepper; wet with broth, or with water, boil from five to six
+hours, and serve with the bacon and sausages on it. When cooked as
+above, but with water instead of broth, drain it well, put the bacon and
+sausages away in a warm place; then put the sour-krout in a stewpan with
+about one pint of white wine to a quart of sour-krout, set it on the
+fire and boil gently till the wine is nearly all absorbed or boiled
+away. Serve as above with the bacon and sausages on it. It is almost
+always prepared with wine in many parts of Germany.
+
+_Cardoons._--The white part only is good to eat. Clean well and scrape
+the sides; cut in pieces two inches and a half in length, and throw them
+in boiling water with a little salt; boil them till their sliminess
+comes off easily; then take from the fire, pour cold water in, and by
+means of a towel remove the sliminess; soak in cold water and drain
+them. Lay a few slices of bacon in a stewpan, place the cardoons on
+them, and again lay slices of bacon on; season with two onions, two
+sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf, and a clove, salt, pepper,
+and the juice of half a lemon; cover with water and set on a good fire;
+boil till cooked; take from the fire and drain the cardoons only,
+throwing away the seasonings. Put the cardoons back in the stewpan, in
+which you have left the bacon; add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth,
+and two of Espagnole sauce; set on a slow fire, and simmer till the
+sauce is reduced to a proper thickness. Have at the same time in a pan
+on the fire a piece of ox-marrow, and when melted mix it with the sauce
+at the moment you take the cardoons from the fire, and serve hot either
+with or without the bacon.
+
+_Carrots--how to clean and prepare them._--Trim off all the small roots,
+wash them well, scrape them gently, taking care to scrape the skin only;
+then wash well, drain, and cut them either in slices a quarter of an
+inch thick, in fillets or strips, or with a vegetable spoon, according
+to fancy.
+
+_To boil._--When prepared, put them in a saucepan with a little salt,
+more cold water than is necessary to cover them, set on the fire, boil
+gently till tender, and drain. It is impossible to tell how long it
+takes, as it depends how young and tender they are.
+
+_In Bechamel._--Clean, cut, and boil about a quart of carrots as
+directed and drain them. Mix well together in a saucepan, on the table,
+about two ounces of butter with a tablespoonful of flour, add about one
+pint of milk, set on the fire, stir slowly till it comes to a boil, when
+turn the carrots in, stir for about one minute, add also a little salt,
+same of sugar, two yolks of eggs; stir and mix well, give one boil, and
+serve warm.
+
+_A la Creme, or with Cream._--Proceed as for a _Bechamel_ in every
+particular except that you use cream instead of milk.
+
+_In Poulette._--Proceed as in _Bechamel_ with the exception that you use
+broth instead of milk, and add a little parsley, chopped fine, just
+before serving.
+
+_Fines Herbes._--Clean, cut, and boil as directed, about a quart of
+carrots. Set a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of butter in it, and
+when melted fry in it a piece of onion chopped fine. When the onion is
+fried add a pint of broth or water; boil about five minutes, put the
+carrots in with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, give one boil, take
+from the fire, add a few drops of lemon-juice, and serve as warm as
+possible, with salt to taste.
+
+_Au jus._--Proceed as for _fines herbes_, except that you do not use
+onions, and put half a pint of broth or gravy.
+
+_Glazed._--Clean, cut with a vegetable spoon, and boil as directed,
+about a quart of carrots, and drain them. Put three ounces of butter in
+a frying-pan and set it on the fire. As soon as the butter is melted
+turn the carrots in, toss gently for five or six minutes, then add a
+little over a gill of rich gravy, sugar to taste, toss again now and
+then till the gravy is half boiled away, and use. Glazed carrots are
+seldom served alone, but most generally used as garnishing around a
+piece of meat.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean, and cut carrots in slices, and then blanch them for
+about five minutes, and drain them. Set a stewpan on the fire with about
+two ounces of butter in it; as soon as melted put the carrots in with
+salt, pepper, a pinch of sugar, half a pint of broth; boil gently till
+cooked, take from the fire, add and mix with the carrots a little
+chopped parsley, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sugar._--Clean and slice about a quart of carrots, and blanch them
+for five minutes, and then drain them. Put two ounces of butter in a
+stewpan, and set it on a good fire, and when melted lay the carrots in
+with salt, pepper, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and about half a pint of
+broth; sprinkle in it, while stirring with a wooden spoon, about a
+teaspoonful of flour, and boil gently till cooked. Take from the fire,
+mix a good tablespoonful of sugar with two yolks of eggs, and those
+again with the rest, and serve.
+
+_Cauliflowers and Broccoli--how to prepare and cook them in
+water._--Clean and wash them well, throw into boiling water with a
+little salt and a little flour, boil till cooked, and drain them.
+
+_How to serve with Cheese._--Put them on a crockery dish when prepared;
+pour on a white sauce, in which you have mixed a little grated cheese;
+then dust the whole with fine bread-crumbs; after which you take a soft
+brush or a feather, which you dip in lukewarm butter, and put a thin
+coat of it all over the cauliflowers; then place the dish in a quick
+oven for ten minutes, and serve as they are, _i. e._, in the dish in
+which they have been cooked. This is also called _au gratin_.
+
+_In Bechamel._--Boil the cauliflowers till done to your taste, drain
+immediately and place them on the dish, the top upward. While it is
+boiling make a _Bechamel_ sauce and turn it over the cauliflowers as
+soon as dished, and serve as warm as possible. Cauliflower, like
+asparagus, has a better taste when rather underdone; it is more crisp.
+
+_Au Beurre Noir (with Brown Butter)._--When boiled, drained, and dished,
+turn a brown butter over them, and serve warm.
+
+_With a Cream-Sauce._--Clean, prepare, boil, and drain the cauliflowers
+as directed above, then dish them also with the top upward. While they
+are boiling, make a cream-sauce and turn it over the cauliflowers as
+soon as they are dished, and serve warm. As they must be served warm, if
+the sauce is ready before the cauliflowers are cooked, keep it in a
+_bain-marie_; if the cauliflowers are cooked before the sauce is ready,
+keep them in a warm place.
+
+_With a White Sauce._--Proceed as with a cream-sauce in every
+particular, turning a white instead of a cream-sauce over them; serve
+warm.
+
+_Fried._--Clean, prepare, and boil them for about five minutes, that is,
+till they are about half cooked; then dip them in batter for frying
+vegetables, and fry them in hot fat. Take them off with a skimmer, turn
+them into a colander, sprinkle salt all over, and serve as hot as
+possible. They are excellent fried, but they must not be allowed to
+cool.
+
+_With a Tomato-Sauce._--Commence by making a tomato-sauce, as it
+requires longer than preparing the cauliflowers. When the sauce is
+nearly made, boil the cauliflower as directed, dish it, and then turn
+the sauce over it, and serve warm.
+
+_Au jus, or stewed._--Prepare, boil the cauliflowers till half done, and
+drain them. Place them carefully in a stewpan, the top upward, and set
+on the fire with a little fat. The fire must be rather slow. Stir gently
+and very carefully in order not to break them, and, about five minutes
+after they are on the fire, add half a gill of broth for a
+middling-sized cauliflower, salt, and pepper; simmer till done, stirring
+now and then during the process; dish them, turn the sauce all over, and
+serve warm.
+
+_In Salad._--When boiled and drained, leave them in the colander till
+perfectly cold, then put them in the salad-dish with salt, pepper,
+vinegar, and oil, move carefully in order not to break it, and serve. A
+salad of cauliflowers is not served as a salad of greens, but as an
+_entremet_, like other vegetables, and as if prepared in any other way.
+It is an excellent dish for breakfast.
+
+_Celery--stewed._--Cut off the green part or top of about half a dozen
+heads of celery; cleanse and trim them, but leave them whole. Set a
+saucepan of cold water and a little salt on the fire, and at the first
+boil drop the heads of celery in, boil till tender and drain. Put the
+celery back in the pan with about half a pint of broth; boil gently
+about five minutes, when add two or three tablespoonfuls of good
+meat-gravy, a teaspoonful of _meuniere_, salt to taste, give one boil,
+and serve warm.
+
+_Fried._--Cut the celery in pieces about two inches long, wash, drain,
+and wipe dry. Dip them in batter for frying vegetables, drop in hot fat,
+and turn them into a colander when fried; sprinkle salt over, and serve
+hot. Soup or turnip-rooted celery, after being cleaned and properly
+scraped, is prepared like table celery as above, either stewed or fried.
+
+_Chiccory._--Chiccory, or succory, or endive, is generally prepared as a
+salad, if it be that with the broad leaves, or the curled endive.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean, wash, and drain it. Blanch it for about one minute,
+and drain again. Then put it in a stewpan with a little broth, and
+simmer till cooked; then add a little gravy, salt and pepper to taste,
+and serve. It makes a good _entremet_. The wild chiccory is prepared in
+the same way.
+
+_With Milk._--Remove the outer leaves and see that it is perfectly
+clean, cut in two or four, wash well in several waters, and throw into
+boiling water with a little salt; boil half an hour, take it out, throw
+into cold water, leave two minutes, and drain; press on it the drainer
+so as to extract all the water from it, after which chop it fine. Put
+about two ounces of butter in a stewpan; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+teaspoonful of flour, also salt and pepper; then put the endive in, say
+three or four heads, stir with a wooden spoon for ten minutes, after
+which time you beat two eggs with milk, and put them in the stewpan;
+keep stirring fifteen minutes longer, and serve.
+
+_Corn--sweet._--The simplest and best way is to boil it, and then eat it
+with butter, salt, and pepper. When boiled with any meat-soup, or with
+_pot-au-feu_, it is delicious to eat, and gives a good taste to the
+broth; it is also eaten with butter, salt, and pepper, as above.
+
+_Stewed._--Shell it and then drop it in boiling water and a little salt,
+boil till nearly done; then drain and put it back on the fire with a
+little broth; boil gently for about ten minutes, add a little gravy,
+salt and pepper to taste, and serve warm.
+
+_In Succotash._--This popular Indian dish, is very simply made by
+boiling corn and green Lima beans together, with salt and pepper. The
+two can be prepared together as stewed corn, but it makes a very
+inferior dish.
+
+_Cucumbers._--Peel them, split them in four, take the seeds out, cut in
+pieces about one inch long, throw them into boiling water, with a little
+salt; boil till cooked, drain, and put them on a towel so as to dry
+them well; then put butter in a frying-pan, and set it on a good fire;
+when hot, put in it some chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, two minutes
+after put the cucumbers in it, fry a few minutes, tossing them now and
+then, and serve.
+
+_The same, stewed._--Cook in boiling water, and dry them as above; then
+put them in a stewpan with a little butter kneaded with flour, add salt,
+pepper, and a pinch of grated nutmeg; moisten with broth, simmer to
+reduce the sauce; take from the fire, mix the yolks of two eggs in the
+sauce; add to it a few drops of vinegar, and serve them.
+
+_Stuffed._--Soak a piece of bread in cold water and then squeeze the
+water out of it, the size to be according to how many cucumbers are to
+be stuffed, or how large they are. Split large cucumbers in two,
+lengthwise, remove the seeds and some of the fleshy parts inside, by
+means of a small iron spoon. Put a little butter in a saucepan on the
+fire, and when melted fry in it a piece of chopped onion. When the onion
+is fried, put in the pan what you have removed from the inside of the
+cucumbers, and which you have chopped a little, stir for about five
+minutes, and then add the soaked bread, stir and mix well with the rest;
+add also salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg and a little gravy; stir
+again for about one minute, take from the fire; fill the cucumbers, that
+is, each half with the mixture; place them in a pan, the mixture upward;
+dust with bread-crumbs, put a little butter on the top of each, and
+bake. Before serving, a little gravy may be sprinkled all over; serve
+warm.
+
+_In hors-d'oeuvre._--Peel the cucumbers, cut them in slices slantwise,
+and salt them for two or three hours. Drain them, and then season with
+oil, vinegar, pepper, and parsley chopped fine.
+
+Pickled cucumbers are served whole with small onions, also pickled, as a
+_hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+_Dandelion._--Dandelion is a very healthy greens in the spring, either
+cooked or raw. Clean and wash them well several times, as it nearly
+always contains fine sand between the leaves; leave them in cold water
+about two hours, and drain them; throw them into boiling water and salt;
+boil twenty minutes if young, and thirty minutes if full grown; then put
+them in a colander, press on them so as to extract all the water, after
+which chop them fine; put about two ounces of butter in a stewpan, for
+two quarts, and set it on a quick fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+teaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper, then put the dandelion in, stir
+for ten minutes, after which wet it with broth; keep stirring for about
+fifteen minutes longer, and serve.
+
+_Egg-Plant--broiled._--Split the egg-plant in two lengthwise, peel it
+and remove the seed. Put it in a crockery vessel and sprinkle salt on
+it; leave it thus nearly an hour, then take it off, dip it in egg beaten
+with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, then boil it; serve with a
+_maitre d'hotel_ sauce.
+
+_Fried._--Peel and cut in slices, lay the slices in a vessel, sprinkling
+salt over every layer, and leave thus half an hour and drain. Dip the
+slices in batter for frying vegetables, drop them in hot fat, and turn
+them into a colander when fried; sprinkle salt all over, and serve.
+
+_Saute._--Put the slices with salt half an hour in a vessel as directed
+in the above. Drain them, and then fry them on both sides with a little
+butter in a frying-pan. Serve warm, with salt and pepper to taste.
+
+_Stuffed._--Proceed as for stuffed cucumbers in every particular.
+
+_Hominy._--Hominy is prepared in different ways, some make it in cakes,
+others like mush. The following is, however, the general way of
+preparing it: boil it for about three hours with water or milk, also
+butter, salt, and pepper; then mix with it some well-beaten eggs, fry or
+broil, or even cook it in an oven, and serve for breakfast.
+
+_Leeks._--Clean, wash, and drain; throw them in boiling water with a
+little salt, boil fifteen minutes, and drain; press on them in the
+drainer, so as to extract all the water, then chop them fine. Put two
+ounces of butter in a stewpan; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful
+of flour, salt, and pepper, then add the leeks. Stir with a wooden spoon
+for ten minutes; after that beat two eggs with milk, and put them in a
+stewpan; keep stirring fifteen minutes longer, and serve.
+
+_Lentils._--This excellent vegetable, much superior to beans or peas, is
+not generally known. Most of what we have here comes from Germany; a
+little comes from France and Switzerland. Many persons think them much
+dearer than beans or peas, not knowing that they swell three or four
+times their size when soaked in water before cooking them. They are
+prepared like dry beans in every way. A _puree_ of lentils is excellent
+with almost every kind of meat, and it also makes a good potage. It has
+all the nutritive qualities of the bean.
+
+_Lettuce._--Cos lettuce, cabbage lettuce, butter lettuce, curled
+Silesia, white or green lettuce, etc. Besides being served as salad, all
+the above, when properly dressed, make an excellent _entremet_.
+
+_To prepare._--Take off the outer leaves, that is, all those that are
+too green or too hard, then clean and wash well, but without cutting it
+off, or without detaching the leaves. To stew lettuce, select hard
+heads, so that they can be cleansed without detaching the leaves. When
+cleaned, drop the heads in boiling water and a little salt, boil about
+five or ten minutes, according to how tender the lettuce is, and drain
+dry.
+
+_Stewed._--When cleaned and prepared, sprinkle on the top of each, salt,
+pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; then tie each head with a string.
+Place in a stewpan two or three slices of bacon, put the heads of
+lettuce in, season with two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a bay-leaf,
+and a clove, also salt and pepper; cover with water, and simmer about
+two hours in an oven; then take them from the pan, drain, pressing on
+them to extract all the water, and put them on a dish, the top upward.
+Have butter in a stewpan, and on a good fire; when melted, sprinkle in
+it a teaspoonful of flour, stirring with a wooden spoon; subdue the
+fire, add a little milk, and stir and simmer ten minutes longer; take
+from the fire, mix in the beaten yolks of two eggs, pour it on the
+lettuce, which you have kept warm, and serve.
+
+_Another way._--When prepared, chop it fine. Put in a stewpan, for four
+heads of lettuce, three ounces of butter, and set it on the fire; when
+melted, put the lettuce in with a little chopped chervil, stir now and
+then till cooked; then sprinkle in it a pinch of flour, wet with broth,
+boil ten minutes longer, keeping it stirred, and serve. (For a salad of
+lettuce, see Salad.)
+
+_Stuffed._--Proceed as for a stuffed cabbage.
+
+_Mushrooms._--Preserved mushrooms are used for sauces only. The first
+thing to consider very attentively in mushrooms is, not to eat any that
+you do not know to be good to eat. There are so many kinds of good and
+bad ones, that it is necessary to be very careful about even the edible
+ones, or the ones known as such when young; it is better and safer
+never to use them when old; they are considered old when the comb
+underneath is black before picking, while when young it is of a pink
+color.
+
+_How to clean and prepare them._--Cut off the lower part of the stem;
+skin them with a steel knife, commencing at the edge and finishing at
+the top; cut in pieces, put them in cold water, to which you have added
+a few drops of vinegar; leave them in it two hours, moving them
+occasionally; then wash well in two or three waters, and drain.
+
+When cleaned and prepared thus, they are ready to be used in sauces, or
+to cook.
+
+_Broiled._--If you have large mushrooms, clean and prepare as above,
+except that you do not cut them; but when drained, put them upside down
+on a greased gridiron, and on a moderate fire; place a little butter
+around the stem upon the comb, and when done place them on a dish which
+you have warmed in advance, and in the same position they had on the
+gridiron; put again around the stem some butter kneaded with a little
+chopped parsley, salt, and pepper, and serve. They must be served warm.
+
+As an ornament, you may make, with common white note-paper, as many
+little square boxes as you have mushrooms to broil; grease them with
+butter, put the mushrooms in, set them on the gridiron, and on a
+moderate fire, and serve them in the boxes when done.
+
+_The same, stewed._--When cleaned and prepared as directed, and drained,
+throw a quart of them in boiling water, to which you have added a few
+drops of vinegar; boil five minutes, take them out, put them in cold
+water to cool, drain and dry them in a towel. Put two ounces of butter
+in a stewpan and set it on a good fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a
+pinch of flour, add also a sprig of parsley, two small onions, a little
+piece of carrot, a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper, cover with broth, and
+boil till the onions are cooked; then take from the pan onions, parsley,
+and bay-leaf, and put the mushrooms in instead; boil slowly about twenty
+minutes, take from the fire, add to the sauce the yolks of two eggs well
+beaten with a few drops of vinegar, and serve warm.
+
+_Mushroom Catsup._--Clean and wash them well, stems and all; cut them in
+two or four pieces; then place the pieces in a crockery vessel,
+sprinkling salt on every layer of mushrooms, and leave thus twenty-four
+hours. Take them out and press them well, so as to take all the juice
+out, which you bottle at once, and cork. Put the mushrooms back in the
+vessel, and twenty-four hours after press them again; and again put the
+juice in bottles, and the mushrooms in the vessel, and repeat this
+process again after another twenty-four hours. Then mix well together
+the juice of the three pressings; add to it pepper, allspice, one clove
+(or more, according to the quantity) broken in pieces; boil the whole,
+skim off the scum as long as you see any on the surface, and strain.
+Bottle when cool; put in each bottle two cloves and a pepper-corn, cork
+air-tight, put in a cool and dry place, and it will keep for years.
+
+_Dried._--Dried mushrooms are imported from Italy, they come cheaper
+than the preserved ones in cans, and are as good for brown sauces. Soak
+them in water over night; drain them, and they are ready for use.
+
+_Onions a la Creme.--(With Cream.)_--Only small white onions are
+prepared _a la creme_. Have water and a little salt on the fire, and
+drop two dozen small white onions into it at the first boil. When
+cooked, drain, and wipe them dry carefully, in order not to bruise
+them. Set a saucepan on the fire with about two ounces of butter in it,
+and when melted put the onions in, stirring gently for two or three
+minutes, then turn about a gill of cream in, little by little, stirring
+the while, and as soon as the whole is in take from the fire, salt to
+taste, and serve hot.
+
+_Glazed._--Peel a dozen of middling-sized onions and put them in a
+saucepan with four ounces of butter, and set them on a slow fire; stir
+occasionally till they are about three-quarters done, when add about two
+ounces of powdered sugar, stir now and then and finish the cooking. When
+done and well browned all around, add one or two tablespoonfuls of good
+meat-gravy, keep a few minutes on a rather brisk fire in order to reduce
+the sauce, but keep stirring and use. Onions prepared that way are
+excellent, and generally used to decorate meat.
+
+_Stewed._--Clean a quart of small onions, throw them in boiling water,
+add two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a clove, a bay-leaf, a little
+piece of nutmeg, a clove of garlic, salt, and pepper; boil twenty
+minutes, drain the onions only, and throw away the seasonings. Put two
+ounces of butter in a stewpan on a good fire, and when melted sprinkle
+in it a teaspoonful of flour; then add the onions, cover with half broth
+and half white wine, boil gently till well cooked and the sauce reduced,
+serve warm. It is a very wholesome dish.
+
+_Parsnips.--Sautees._--Scrape, wash, drain, and put about two quarts of
+parsnips in a saucepan with cold water and a little salt, set on the
+fire and boil till done, then drain. Cut the parsnips in slices, put two
+ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and when melted put the sliced turnips
+in, toss gently till they are of a fine golden color, then add salt and
+pepper to taste, turn over a dish, sprinkle chopped parsley all over,
+and serve warm.
+
+_Stewed._--Scrape, clean, wash, boil, and drain as above directed, about
+two quarts of parsnips. Put them immediately into a stewpan with salt,
+pepper, and broth enough to about half cover them, boil gently for
+fifteen minutes, and serve the whole as it is. They may also be prepared
+in _poulette_, the same as turnips.
+
+_Peas with Bacon._--Put in a stewpan on the fire four ounces of bacon
+cut in dice (for one quart of peas), and toss and fry it for about five
+minutes, then add the peas after having blanched them from five to ten
+minutes, according to how tender they are; stir for two minutes and add
+half a pint of broth or water, also a bunch of seasonings composed of
+two or three sprigs of parsley, half a one of thyme, and a piece of
+bay-leaf; stir again and mix, and then add also two or three small
+onions, salt, and pepper; boil half an hour, remove the seasonings, and
+serve peas and salt pork. A small sausage may be added for those who
+like the taste of it.
+
+_Plain boiled._--Put a saucepan on the fire with water and salt in it,
+and at the first boil drop two quarts of peas in it; boil gently till
+done, and then drain. As soon as they are in the colander, just toss
+them a little, turn them over a dish, and put four ounces of butter on
+the top, salt, and pepper, then place the dish in the oven with the door
+open, that is, just to keep them warm and allow the butter to melt, stir
+for one or two minutes, and serve warm.
+
+_With Lettuce._--Blanch a quart of peas for about five minutes, and
+drain them. Blanch a head of lettuce for one minute. Put peas and
+lettuce in a saucepan with one ounce of butter, stir gently on the fire
+for about one minute, and then add a little broth or water, two or three
+sprigs of parsley, salt, and pepper; boil slowly till done, and serve
+warm. The parsley may be served, or removed just before serving,
+according to taste. The lettuce is always served with the peas.
+
+_Au jus._--Boil the peas as directed for _plain boiled_, then put them
+back on the fire with a little butter, stir for one minute, add about
+three tablespoonfuls of gravy to a quart of peas, salt and pepper, give
+one boil, and serve.
+
+_With Ham._--Blanch two quarts of peas and drain them. Put them in a
+saucepan with half a pound of ham, cut in dice, half cover them with
+water, and boil gently till done. If the water boils away, add a little
+more; serve warm.
+
+Canned peas are prepared in the same way as above.
+
+_A l'Anglaise._--If the peas are fresh, blanch them; if they are
+preserved, drain them only. Put the peas in a saucepan with about one
+ounce of butter for a pint, set on the fire, stir gently till thoroughly
+warm, add chopped parsley and a yolk of egg, and serve.
+
+_Au Sucre (with Sugar)._--Set the peas on the fire, the same as above,
+add about one ounce of sugar, stir also till warm; take from the fire,
+stir a yolk of egg in, and serve.
+
+_Dry Peas and Split Peas._--Dry and split peas are prepared and served
+in the same and every way like dry _beans_, with the exception that they
+require to be soaked only for a few hours before cooking them.
+
+_Potatoes.--To select._--As a general rule, the smaller the eye the
+better the potatoes. By cutting off a piece from the larger end you
+ascertain if they are sound; they must be white, reddish, bluish, etc.,
+according to the species. If spotted, they are not sound, and therefore
+very inferior. There are several kinds, and all of them are good when
+sound or coming from a proper soil. Use the kind you prefer, or those
+that are better fit for the way they are intended to be served. To mash
+or to make a _puree_, etc., every kind is good. To serve whole or in
+dice, or in pieces like carpels of oranges, those called _Mercers_ and
+the like, are preferable, because they do not bruise so easily.
+
+_To boil._--Being naturally watery, potatoes should never be cooked by
+boiling except when wanted very white, as for _croquettes_. When boiled
+whole, put them of an even size as much as possible, in order to cook
+them evenly. They are better, more mealy, when steamed or baked, but
+those who have no steamer must, of course, boil them. Cover them with
+cold water, set on the fire and boil till done, then pour off all the
+water, put the pan back on a slow fire for five minutes and well
+covered; then use the potatoes.
+
+_To steam._--Place them above a kettle of boiling water, in a kind of
+drainer made for that purpose, and adapted to the kettle. The drainer
+must be covered tight. They cook as fast as by boiling, the degree of
+heat being the same. When steamed the skin is very easily removed.
+
+_To prepare._--If they are to be boiled, or steamed, or baked, it is
+only necessary to wash them. If wanted peeled, as for frying, etc., then
+commence by cutting off the germs or eyes; if young and tender, take the
+skin off with a scrubbing-brush and drop immediately in cold water to
+keep them white; if old, scrape the skin off with a knife, for the part
+immediately under the skin contains more nutriment than the middle, and
+drop in cold water also. If wanted cut, either in dice, or like carpels
+of oranges, or any other way, cut them above a bowl of cold water, so
+that they drop into it, for if kept exposed to the air they turn reddish
+and lose their nutritive qualities.
+
+_A l'Allemande._--Steam, peel, and slice the potatoes. Cut some bread in
+thin slices, and fry bread and potatoes with a little butter and turn
+the whole in a bowl, dust well with sugar, pour a little milk all over
+and bake for about fifteen minutes; serve warm.
+
+_A l'Anglaise._--Steam or boil about a quart of potatoes and then peel
+and slice them. Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on the fire,
+and put the potatoes in when melted, toss them for about ten minutes,
+add salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and serve hot.
+
+_A la barigoule._--Peel some potatoes and cook them whole in broth; when
+done take them off carefully, so as not to break or bruise them, and
+drain. Have some oil in a frying-pan and on a quick fire, and when hot
+lay the potatoes in; move gently to fry them all around, and then dish
+them, sprinkling salt, pepper, and vinegar, all over; serve warm.
+
+_Bechamel._--Steam or boil and peel some potatoes, then slice them and
+place on a dish; have a _Bechamel_ sauce ready, turn it over the
+potatoes, and serve warm.
+
+_Broiled._--Steam, peel and slice the potatoes. Lay the slices on a
+gridiron, and place it over a rather slow fire; have melted butter, and
+spread some over the slices of potatoes with a brush; as soon as the
+under part is broiled, turn each slice over and spread butter over the
+other side. When done, dish, salt, and serve them hot. A little butter
+may be added when dished, according to taste.
+
+_A la Parisienne._--Chop an onion fine and partly fry it with butter,
+then put in it some potatoes cut in dice, add a little water or broth,
+salt, and pepper; boil gently till done, take from the fire, add chopped
+parsley, and serve.
+
+_Fried._--To be fried, the potatoes are cut either with a vegetable
+spoon, in fillets, in slices, with a scalloped knife, or with an
+ordinary one, or cut in pieces like carpels of oranges, or even in dice.
+When cut, drain and wipe them dry. This must be done quickly, so as not
+to allow the potatoes to turn reddish. Have a coarse towel ready, then
+turn the potatoes into a colander, and immediately turn them in the
+towel, shake them a little, and quickly drop them in hot fat. (_See_
+Frying.) When done, turn them into a colander, sprinkle salt on them,
+and serve hot. Bear in mind that fried potatoes must be eaten as hot as
+possible. Fry only one size at a time, as it takes three times as long
+to fry them when cut in pieces as when sliced or cut in fillets.
+
+_To fry them light, or swelled_.--When fried, turn into the colander,
+and have the fat over a brisk fire; leave the potatoes in the colander
+only about half a minute, then put them back in the very hot fat, stir
+for about one minute and put them again in the colander, salt them, and
+serve hot. If the fat is very hot, when dropped into it for the second
+time they will certainly swell; there is no other way known to do it. It
+is as easily done as it is simple. Potatoes cut in fillets and fried are
+sometimes called _a la Parisienne_; when cut in slices or with a
+vegetable spoon, they are called _a la francaise_.
+
+Potatoes cut with a vegetable spoon and fried, make a good as well as a
+sightly decoration for a dish of meat or of fish. They may be fried in
+oil also, but it is more expensive than in fat. They may be fried in
+butter also, but it is still more expensive than oil, and is not better
+than fat; no matter what kind of fat is used, be it lard, beef suet, or
+skimmings of sauces and gravy, it cannot be tasted.
+
+_Hollandaise._--Steam or boil the potatoes, and then peel and mash
+them. Season them with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt, and
+pepper, add also two tablespoonfuls of gravy to a quart of potatoes,
+then make small balls about the size of a walnut, round or of an
+olive-shape, dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in
+hot fat. Serve hot.
+
+_Another._--Proceed as for the above one in every particular, except
+that you use milk or cream instead of broth, and sugar instead of salt
+and pepper.
+
+_Lyonnaise._--Potatoes _Lyonnaise_ are prepared according to taste, that
+is, as much onion as liked is used, either in slices or chopped. If you
+have not any cold potatoes, steam or boil some, let them cool, and peel
+and slice them. For about a quart of potatoes, put two ounces of butter
+in a frying-pan on the fire, and when melted put as much onion as you
+please, either sliced or chopped, into the pan, and fry it till about
+half done, when add the potatoes and again two ounces of butter; salt,
+pepper, and stir and toss gently till the potatoes are all fried of a
+fine, light-brown color. It may require more butter, as no vegetable
+absorbs more than potatoes. It makes an excellent dish for those who do
+not object to the taste of the onion (the onion can be tasted, not being
+boiled or kept long enough on the fire to evaporate). Serve warm. Oil
+may be used instead of butter.
+
+_Maitre d'Hotel._--Steam or boil about a quart of potatoes, and then
+peel and cut them in slices. Put one ounce and a half of butter in a
+saucepan on the fire, and when melted add a small tablespoonful of
+flour; stir, and when turning yellow add also about a quart of milk,
+salt to taste, give one boil and take from the fire. Then add the
+potatoes, put back on a slow fire, stir for ten minutes, mix in the
+whole a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, also a yolk or two of eggs,
+and serve warm.
+
+_Another Maitre d'Hotel._--Take two quarts of potatoes, prepare and cook
+them by steam, peel carefully, and cut them in thick slices; place them
+on a dish and keep warm. Put four ounces of butter in a stewpan and set
+it on a slow fire; add, when melted, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
+the juice of half a lemon, salt, pepper, and a pinch of allspice, stir
+ten minutes; afterward, put for five minutes on a quick fire, keep
+stirring, then pour on the potatoes, and serve.
+
+_Mashed._--Peel and quarter about three pints of potatoes as directed;
+put them in a saucepan with more water than is necessary to cover them,
+and a little salt; set on the fire and boil gently till done, drain, put
+them back in the saucepan, mash them well and mix them with two ounces
+of butter, two yolks of eggs, salt, pepper, and milk enough to make them
+of a proper thickness. Set on the fire for two or three minutes,
+stirring the while, and serve warm. When on the dish, smooth them with
+the back of a knife or scallop them, according to fancy.
+
+_Mashed and baked._--Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on
+the fire; when hot, add a teaspoonful of parsley chopped fine, and a
+little salt; five minutes after, put in it a quart of potatoes,
+prepared, cooked, peeled, and mashed, as directed; then pour on the
+whole, little by little, stirring continually with a wooden spoon, a
+pint of good milk; and when the whole is well mixed, and becoming rather
+thick, take from the fire, place on the dish, then set in a brisk oven
+for five minutes, and serve.
+
+_Polanaise._--Wash well about two quarts of potatoes, put them in a
+saucepan and cover with cold water, season with salt, half a dozen whole
+peppers, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and two or three onions in
+slices; boil gently till done, and drain. Peel the potatoes, cut them
+in two, dish and turn a _caper_ sauce over them. Serve warm.
+
+_Provencale._--Peel and quarter about three pints of potatoes as
+directed. Put in a saucepan about a gill of oil with the potatoes, salt,
+pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, six sprigs of parsley, two cloves of garlic,
+and half the rind of a lemon; the three latter spices well chopped; set
+on a good fire, stir now and then till cooked, dish the whole, sprinkle
+the juice of one or two lemons on, and serve warm.
+
+_Another way._--Put in a stewpan three tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, a
+teaspoonful of chopped parsley, two cloves of garlic chopped very fine,
+a pinch of grated nutmeg, the juice of half a lemon, salt, and pepper;
+set on a good fire, and when hot put in it a quart of potatoes prepared
+and cooked by steam, and cut in thick slices; subdue the fire, simmer
+about ten minutes, and serve.
+
+_Sautees._--Take a quart of young and tender potatoes, peel them with a
+brush, and cut in slices. Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on a
+quick fire; when hot, put the potatoes in, and fry them till of a golden
+color; place them on a dish without any butter, sprinkle chopped parsley
+and salt on, and serve. They may also be served without parsley,
+according to taste.
+
+_Soufflees._--Steam a quart of potatoes, then peel and mash them in a
+saucepan and mix an ounce of butter with them; set on the fire, pour
+into it, little by little, stirring the while, about half a pint of
+milk, stir a little longer after the milk is in and until they are
+turning rather thick; dish the potatoes, smooth or scallop them with the
+back of a knife, and put them in a quick oven till of a proper color,
+and serve.
+
+_Another way._--Steam three pints of potatoes and peel and mash them in
+a saucepan, then mix with them four ounces of butter, salt to taste,
+half a pint of milk, and eight yolks of eggs; set on the fire for two
+minutes, stirring the while, and take off. Beat six whites of eggs to a
+stiff froth, and mix them gently with the rest. Place the mixture on a
+dish, smooth with the back of a knife or scallop them, according to
+fancy, and put in a quick oven. As soon as the top gets a little dry,
+which will be in two or three minutes after being in the oven, take them
+off and quickly spread some melted butter all over, by means of a brush,
+and put back in the oven for two or three minutes longer, when take off
+again, spread butter over the same as the first time, etc. Repeat the
+same process two or three times, and serve warm.
+
+_Stuffed._--Steam two or three potatoes and peel and mash them in a
+bowl, then chop fine a small green onion or two shallots with two ounces
+of fat salt pork and six or eight sprigs of parsley; mix the whole with
+the potatoes; add also and mix with the rest about two ounces of butter,
+and salt and pepper to taste. If the potatoes are not warm enough to
+melt the butter while mixing, it should be melted first. Clean and wash
+well six potatoes of an even size and split them in two lengthwise; then
+with a small iron spoon remove the middle part of each half, so as to
+leave only a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch. You have then a
+kind of shell, which you fill with the prepared mixture above, filling
+more than full, so that the top is convex, and which you smooth with the
+back of a knife. When the twelve halves are thus prepared, butter the
+bottom of a bakepan, lay the potatoes in with the mixture upward, and
+put in a warm oven. Take from the oven when about half done, and spread
+some melted butter all over by means of a brush; put back in the oven,
+finish the baking, and serve warm.
+
+_In Cakes._--Prepare and cook by steam a quart and a half of potatoes,
+peel and mash them; mix with them the yolks of five eggs, half a
+lemon-rind grated, and four ounces of fine white sugar. Put four ounces
+of butter in a stewpan and set it on the fire; when melted, put the
+mixture in, stirring with a wooden spoon continually; as soon as it is
+in the stewpan, add the whites of the five eggs, well beaten; leave on
+the fire only the time necessary to mix the whole well together, and
+take off; when nearly cold, add, if handy, and while stirring, a few
+drops of orange-flower water; it gives a very good flavor; then put the
+whole in a tin mould greased a little with butter; place in a quick oven
+for about thirty-five minutes, and serve.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Peel, quarter, and boil about a quart of potatoes as
+directed. Mash them in a saucepan and mix them with four yolks of eggs,
+two ounces of butter, salt, and about half a gill of milk; set on the
+fire, stir for about two minutes, take off, spread on a dish and leave
+thus for two or three hours, and even over night when for breakfast.
+When left over night, they may be rather too dry to work them; then mix
+with a few drops of milk. No matter how long they have been left on the
+dish, it is necessary to mix them, that is, to mix the top, which is the
+driest part, with the rest. Dust the paste-board slightly with
+bread-crumbs, put the potatoes on it, in parts of about a tablespoonful
+each; then, with the hands and a knife, shape them according to fancy,
+either round, flat, or oval, etc. When shaped round they look like a
+piece of sausage about two inches and a half long. If wished flat, when
+shaped round, just flatten them a little with the blade of a knife. Then
+dip each part in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in hot fat.
+(_See_ Frying.) Take them off the fat when done, turn them into a
+colander, and immediately dish, and serve them as warm as possible.
+Potato _croquettes_ are sometimes called potato-balls. When the
+_croquettes_ are shaped flat, they are also called "_a la duchesse_."
+
+_Another Duchesse._--When the potatoes are ready to be spread on the
+dish to cool, put them in the pastry-bag and squeeze them out of it like
+lady's fingers, bake, and serve warm. It makes a sightly dish.
+
+_In Matelote._--Prepare and cook a quart and a half of potatoes, and
+peel and cut them in thick slices. Put in a stewpan a piece of butter
+the size of an egg, and set it on the fire; when melted, sprinkle in it
+a teaspoonful of flour, also the same of chopped parsley, salt, and
+pepper, then the potatoes, wet with half a pint of claret wine, same of
+broth; boil gently till the sauce is reduced, and serve.
+
+_With Butter, or English Fashion._--Put water on the fire with
+considerable salt in it; at the first boil, drop a quart of washed
+potatoes in and boil till done, when take off, peel, and put them whole
+in a saucepan, with butter, salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg; set on a
+rather slow fire, stirring gently now and then till they have absorbed
+all the butter. Serve warm. They absorb a great deal of butter.
+
+_With Bacon or Salt Pork._--Peel and quarter about a quart of potatoes.
+Set a saucepan on the fire with about four ounces of fat salt pork cut
+in dice in it. When fried put the potatoes in. Season with a bunch of
+seasonings composed of two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, and a
+bay-leaf; salt and pepper to taste, and about half a pint of broth or
+water. Boil gently till cooked, remove the bunch of seasonings; skim off
+the fat if any, and serve warm. It is served at breakfast, as well as
+_entremets_ for dinner.
+
+_With Cream or Milk._--Peel and mash a quart of potatoes, when prepared
+and cooked. Put two ounces of butter in a stewpan and set it on a good
+fire; when melted, sprinkle in it a teaspoonful of flour, same of
+chopped parsley, a pinch of grated nutmeg, and salt; stir with a wooden
+spoon five minutes; then add the potatoes, and half a pint of milk or
+cream; keep stirring ten minutes longer, take from the fire, sprinkle in
+them half a tablespoonful of sugar, and serve as warm as possible.
+
+_With White Sauce._--Clean, wash, and throw a quart of potatoes in
+boiling water, with a sprig of thyme, two onions, a bay-leaf, two sprigs
+of sweet basil, two cloves, salt, and pepper; when cooked, take the
+potatoes out carefully, peel and cut them in two, place them on a warm
+dish, pour on them a white sauce, and serve warm.
+
+_Sweet Potatoes._--They are prepared in the same and every way like the
+others above.
+
+_Pumpkins and Squashes._--Peel, take out the seed, cut in pieces, and
+throw them in boiling water with a little salt; drain when cooked and
+mash through a colander, put butter in a stewpan on the fire, when
+melted, add chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the pumpkin or squash,
+and simmer ten minutes; after which pour in it half a pint of milk,
+little by little, stirring the while; leave ten minutes longer on the
+fire, and take off; mix well in it two or three yolks of eggs, and serve
+warm. The quantity of milk, butter, eggs, etc., to be according to the
+quantity of squash.
+
+_Purslain._--Clean, wash well, and drop it in boiling water with a
+little salt, boil till cooked, take off and drain. Put butter in a
+stewpan on the fire, and when melted lay the purslain in, stir a little
+and sprinkle on it, little by little, a pinch of flour; season with
+salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, stir and simmer about ten minutes,
+take from the fire, mix in it one or two beaten eggs, and serve.
+Purslain is much more used in Europe than here; there it is cultivated
+as other vegetables, but it does not grow as well as here.
+
+_Rhubarb._--Scrape and cut it in pieces about one inch long, and then
+blanch it for two minutes. Put it in a saucepan with two or three
+tablespoonfuls of cold water and set it on a rather sharp fire, toss or
+stir now and then till done, when sweeten to taste, dish, let cool, and
+serve. Rhubarb is very wholesome, and ought to be partaken of at least
+every other day. When prepared as above, it may be used to make pies.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Radishes._--The cuts below are turnip-rooted red radishes, cut with a
+small knife, put in cold water for about an hour, and served with
+butter, as a _hors-d'oeuvre_. Remove the outer leaves, leaving only four
+or five of the small centre ones, cut off the root close to the radish,
+and wash clean in cold water. Take the radish with the left hand holding
+it by the centre leaves, cut the skin from the top downward to near the
+leaves, in several parts, but without detaching it, and as seen in the
+cuts above; do the same carefully with the body of the radish, and it
+will look more like a rose than like a radish. After having prepared two
+or three, it will be comparatively easy. The centre leaves must be
+eaten, as well as the body of the radish; they contain a substance that
+helps the digestion of the radish itself.
+
+_Salsify, or Oyster-Plant._--Scrape them, and throw one by one as they
+are scraped into cold water, with a few drops of vinegar; when they are
+all scraped, move them a little, take out of the water, and throw them
+in boiling water with a little salt, boil till tender, and drain; place
+them warm on a warm dish, and serve with brown butter, a _maitre
+d'hotel_, or white sauce.
+
+_Fried._--When boiled as above, drain them. Then dip each in batter for
+frying vegetables, drop them in hot fat, and take them off with a
+skimmer when done, turn into a colander, salt them, and serve hot.
+
+_In Bechamel._--While the salsify is boiling as directed above, make a
+_Bechamel_ sauce; drain the salsify when done, and turn it into the
+_Bechamel_ sauce as soon as the latter is finished; keep on the fire for
+about two minutes, stirring the while, and serve warm. They are prepared
+and served in the same way with the following sauces: _cream_,
+_poulette_, and _white_.
+
+_Skirret._--Prepare, cook, and serve in every way like parsnips.
+
+_Sorrel._--Sorrel is found in a wild state nearly everywhere; that is,
+where green plants vegetate. It is an excellent vegetable, good to eat
+all the year round, but especially in the spring and summer. It is very
+healthful, containing the pure oxalic acid as it is formed by Nature.
+Sorrel is the greatest neutralizer of acrid substances. A few leaves
+chewed, take away from the teeth that disagreeable feeling left after
+having eaten a tart apple or other tart, unripe fruit. Cultivated in a
+rich soil, the leaves grow nearly as large as those of the rhubarb. It
+is cut to the ground several times during the spring and summer.
+
+_To boil._--Take a peck of sorrel, separate the stalk from the eatable
+part, by taking hold of it with one hand and tearing off the rest with
+the other, so that only the stalk and fibres attached to it will remain
+after the tearing, and which you throw away. Wash it well, drain and set
+it on the fire in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir
+occasionally, and when nearly done, take off, mash through a colander,
+and it is ready for use.
+
+_Au jus._--Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a saucepan, set
+it on the fire, and when melted, put the sorrel in after being boiled
+and mashed as above, stir half a minute, add a tablespoonful of flour;
+stir another half minute, add also half a gill of gravy, same of broth,
+salt, stir two minutes, and serve. Hard-boiled eggs, split in four
+pieces, lengthwise, may be placed around the dish, if the sorrel is
+served as an _entremets_.
+
+_To preserve for Winter Use._--When boiled and mashed as above, put it
+in stone or glass jars; when cold, turn melted butter or lard over it;
+cover as tightly as possible with paper, and when perfectly cold, put
+away in a dark, dry, and rather cool place, and it will keep very well
+during the whole winter. The best time to preserve it is at the
+beginning of November, just before the cold weather sets in.
+
+_Puree of._--When prepared as for _au jus_, but without gravy, it is a
+_puree_.
+
+_Spinach--to boil._--When cleaned and washed, throw it in boiling water
+at the first boiling, with a pinch of salt, and boil till done. It will
+take from one to ten minutes to boil, according to how tender it is.
+Turn into a colander; press on it to force the water out, put on the
+paste-board and chop it fine.
+
+_Au jus._--When chopped, set the spinach on the fire in a saucepan with
+a little broth, two or three tablespoonfuls for a small measure; stir,
+add as much gravy, an ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of flour, salt,
+stir two minutes, and serve.
+
+_Au jus in Winter._--When prepared as above, put it away in a bowl in a
+cool place, for one day; then set it back on the fire in a pan, add a
+little butter and a little broth, stir and just warm it, when put away
+again; repeat this for four or five days in succession, and you
+certainly will have an excellent dish. Some hard-boiled eggs cut in four
+pieces, lengthwise, may be placed around the spinach when dished, also
+some _croutons_. Spinach is generally served on a flat dish, and
+scalloped all around with a knife.
+
+_With Sugar._--Proceed as for spinach _au jus_ in every particular,
+except that you put very little salt, and one or two teaspoonfuls of
+sugar, according to taste. Lady-fingers or pieces of sponge-cake may be
+placed all around the dish.
+
+_A la Creme._--Boil and chop the spinach as directed. Set it on the fire
+in a saucepan, stir till perfectly dry, but not burnt; add two ounces of
+butter, and stir again for five or six minutes; then add about two
+tablespoonfuls of cream to a small measure of spinach; stir again five
+minutes, take from the fire; add again one ounce of butter, stir two
+minutes, and serve with hard-boiled eggs or _croutons_, or both. Milk
+may be used instead of cream when the latter cannot be had, but it is
+inferior in taste.
+
+_With Anchovy._--Proceed as for the above, using a tablespoonful of
+essence of anchovy instead of cream.
+
+_Spinach au Beurre, or a l'anglaise._--Boil and chop the spinach as
+directed. Put it in a saucepan with butter; set on the fire, stir till
+the butter is melted and mixed with the spinach, salt to taste, and
+serve.
+
+_Sprouts._--Boil, prepare, and serve sprouts the same as spinach.
+
+_Tomatoes_ are, like sorrel and rhubarb, very healthful.
+
+_To blanch._--After they are washed, throw boiling water over them, and
+then take off and remove the skin.
+
+_Stewed, to serve with Meat or Fish._--When blanched as above, put the
+tomatoes in a stewpan with butter, salt, and pepper, set on the fire and
+simmer for about forty-five minutes; serve warm all around the fish or
+piece of meat. Tomatoes may be eaten raw, with or without salt; in no
+matter what way they are partaken of, they are not yet known to have
+indisposed anybody. Although great quantities are consumed in this and
+other countries, still many more ought to be used; they are so easily
+preserved, that every family ought to have a large provision of them for
+the winter and spring consumption.
+
+_Stuffed._--Soak in cold water one-fourth of a ten-cent loaf of bread,
+etc.; when perfectly soaked, squeeze it with the hands. Take six
+tomatoes, as much of an even size as possible, cut the top off; that is,
+the side opposite the stem, and with a small spoon take out the inside
+and put it in a bowl, and then turn into a colander to let the liquid
+part run off. Put about an ounce of butter in a saucepan, and when
+melted add a small onion chopped; stir, and when nearly fried add also
+the part of the tomatoes in the colander also chopped; stir half a
+minute; put in the soaked bread, stir and mix; then salt, pepper, and
+grated nutmeg; give one boil more, and take from the fire. Fill the
+tomatoes with this mixture, dust with bread-crumbs, put a piece of
+butter the size of a hazel-nut on each, and bake. Just before serving,
+wet with a little tomato-sauce, broth, or gravy.
+
+_Turnips--to boil._--Clean, scrape, and wash well, then put them in a
+saucepan, either whole or in slices, or cut with a fruit-corer or with a
+vegetable spoon, add cold water enough to boil them in, a little salt,
+set on the fire and boil gently till tender; then take off, drain, drop
+in cold water, drain again, and use.
+
+_In Bechamel._--While the turnips are boiling as described above, make a
+_Bechamel_ sauce and turn the turnips in as soon as made; boil gently
+about two minutes, stirring the while, and serve warm. Do exactly the
+same with a cream or white sauce.
+
+_Au jus._--Boil and drain them as directed above, then put them in a
+saucepan with a little gravy, set on the fire, stir now and then for
+about ten minutes, add a teaspoonful of _meuniere_, stir again for two
+or three minutes, and serve warm.
+
+_With Sugar._--Cut with a fruit-corer or with a vegetable spoon about a
+pint of turnips, and boil them till under done, then drain. Put the
+turnips in a saucepan with two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, set on
+a good fire, toss occasionally for about ten minutes, then add two or
+three tablespoonfuls of sugar, toss again now and then for ten minutes
+longer, and serve. It may take a little longer or less time than
+described above, according to the state of the turnips; if young and
+very tender, keep on the fire five instead of ten minutes, and if old,
+it may take fifteen minutes.
+
+_Glazed._--Cut the turnips with a vegetable spoon, boil them for five
+minutes, and drain them. Put half a gill of broth in a saucepan with
+about one pint of turnips and set on a good fire; toss and stir now and
+then till done, and till the broth is all boiled away. If it boils away
+before the turnips are cooked, add more and finish the cooking. When
+done, sprinkle about three ounces of sugar on them, stir for about one
+minute, dish the turnips, dredge powdered sugar all over, put in the
+oven two minutes, and serve.
+
+_Water-cress._--This contains much sulphur, and is the greatest
+anti-scorbutic known. Besides being eaten with salt or in salad, it may
+also be stewed in the following way: Take only the top and the leaves
+around the stalk; clean and wash it well; throw it in boiling water with
+a little salt, and when cooked drain it well, so as to extract all the
+water from it. Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a stewpan;
+when melted, put the cress in, sprinkle on it a tablespoonful of flour
+(for three quarts); stir continually with a spoon, boil ten minutes,
+then add salt, pepper, a little grated nutmeg, and half a pint of broth;
+boil ten minutes longer, and serve either alone, or with hard-boiled
+eggs on it; cut the eggs in two or four pieces.
+
+_Salads._--Salads are seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper, and
+sometimes with mustard also. The best oil is that made of olives, but
+much is sold for olive-oil which contains more lard than oil. It is
+impossible to tell which is pure by the color. Pure olive-oil is of a
+pale-yellow-greenish color. It is very easy to tell the pure oil by
+tasting, but of course it is necessary to know the real taste of good
+oil.
+
+The best vinegar is wine-vinegar, with _tarragon_ in it (_vinaigre a
+l'estragon_), but it is expensive. Next to it is cider-vinegar. Beer
+makes good vinegar, but inferior to that made with cider. Pyrolignic
+vinegar is very unhealthy. No one can be too careful in selecting
+vinegar. The superiority of the French mustard comes from the compounds
+used, and not from the way it is made, as thought by many. In the French
+mustard, besides _vinaigre a l'estragon_, there is white wine, and more
+sweet-oil than in any other kind. A good deal of mustard is made here,
+and often sold as French, after being carefully labelled.
+
+Salad is made with every species of lettuce; chicory, cultivated and
+wild; cabbages, red and white; cauliflowers, celery, dandelion,
+corn-salad, purslain, water-cress, etc. If it were possible to clean the
+salad by merely wiping the leaves with a towel, it would be better than
+washing; but it must be washed if there is any earth or sand on it. The
+salad should be made by an experienced person, who can judge at a glance
+what quantity of salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar is necessary. The
+quantities cannot be given, as that depends on the quantity of salad.
+Chopped parsley and chives are served on a small plate at the same time
+with the salad, as many persons like those spices.
+
+_Celery._--When the celery is washed and cleaned, wipe it dry, cut the
+white or eatable part (the top or green part is used for soup) in pieces
+about one inch long, put them in the salad-dish with salt, vinegar, and
+mustard, stir a little, leave thus about one hour, then add pepper and
+oil, move again, and serve.
+
+_Lettuce._--Lettuce, and especially Cos or Roman lettuce, must be
+handled very gingerly, in order not to wilt the leaves while cleaning
+and washing. When the head of the lettuce, especially of Roman lettuce,
+is hard, it is not necessary to wash it at all, as when the outer leaves
+are taken off, the rest is perfectly clean. Never use the knife, but
+break the leaves; put them in the salad-dish; spread all over the dish,
+according to taste and fancy, the blossoms and petals (not the leaves)
+of any or all of the following plants: burnet, wild chiccory, rose (any
+kind), pink, sage, lady's-slipper, marsh-mallow, nasturtium, periwinkle.
+Thus decorated, the salad is put on the table at the setting of it, and
+made when the time for eating it comes. Of these decorative flowers, the
+handiest are the rose and pink, as at every season of the year they are
+easily obtained. In spring and summer most of the others can also be had
+easily.
+
+The salad, thus decorated, is placed on the table at the same time with
+the soup. It is made while the roast-piece is carved or eaten; the
+petals of flowers or blossoms are not removed, and, of course, are eaten
+with the lettuce. The salad is seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, and
+oil. The proportions are two tablespoonfuls of oil to one of vinegar for
+a salad for three, four, or five persons. It is generally moved round in
+the dish, so as to impregnate every leaf with the seasoning. It is
+served immediately after the roast-piece.
+
+Cream may be used instead of oil.
+
+_Turnip-rooted Celery (called also Soup Celery._)--Clean, wash well, and
+scrape it carefully; cut it in thin slices, place it in the salad-dish,
+sprinkle salt, pepper, vinegar, and mustard on it, mix well the whole
+together, and leave thus from four to six hours. Then throw away the
+vinegar, or most of it; add very little salt and vinegar, oil, and move
+well. Serve as above, that is, immediately after the roast-piece of the
+dinner.
+
+A salad with cabbage, chiccory, corn-salad, or any kind of greens, after
+being properly cleaned, washed, wiped dry, and cut in pieces if
+necessary, is made and served exactly like a salad of lettuce described
+above.
+
+_Nasturtium._--This is said to be a native of Mexico; it makes a good
+salad in summer-time. Make and serve like a salad of lettuce.
+
+_Chervil and Sorrel._--In Italy, Spain, and the south of France, they
+make salad with these two vegetables, half of each, prepared and served
+like lettuce.
+
+Some persons like a thick sauce with salad; it is made thus: Put a
+hard-boiled yolk of egg in a bowl, mash it, and then mix with it salt
+and a tablespoonful of vinegar; when these three are thoroughly mixed,
+add pepper and oil (about two tablespoonfuls of oil), little by little,
+stirring and mixing well the while; turn the mixture over the salad, and
+move as directed above. The mixture may be prepared in the salad-dish,
+and the salad put in afterward.
+
+Mustard should never be used with lettuce; it is too strong to be eaten
+with such tender vegetables.
+
+_Of Salsify._--In the spring, when the top of the salsify has grown for
+one or two weeks only, and immediately after the frost is out of the
+ground, cut it off, split it in four, wash it well, drain it dry, and
+prepare as a salad of lettuce. The root is prepared as described for
+salsify, and is never made in salad.
+
+_Of Cucumbers._--Peel and slice them, then put them in a vessel, salt
+every layer, and leave thus in a cool place about one hour, drain them
+dry and then dress them with oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper; slices of
+onion may be added, if liked.
+
+_Of Beans._--Boil the beans in water with a little salt, drain them dry,
+and then dress them with parsley chopped fine, salt, pepper, oil, and
+vinegar.
+
+_Of Beets._--Boil the beets in water only till done, and when cool, peel
+and slice them, and prepare them with pepper, salt, vinegar, and oil.
+The beets may be baked.
+
+_Of Eggs._--Slice hard-boiled eggs, and dress them with chopped parsley,
+salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil.
+
+_Of Lentils._--Proceed as for beans in every particular.
+
+_Of Onions._--Bake the onions, then peel and slice them, and dress them
+with mustard, salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil.
+
+_Of Tomatoes._--Wash, wipe dry, and slice the tomatoes; slice also
+onions and mix with them, the quantity to be according to taste; then
+season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar.
+
+_Of Walnuts._--The European walnut only can be used, and as soon as good
+to eat; that is, before the outer shell dries and opens. Break the nuts
+in two, take out the kernels with a pointed knife, and place them in a
+salad-dish, with some juice of grapes not yet ripe; add salt and pepper,
+leave thus two or three hours, moving now and then, and serve. The
+edible part will be found very good eaten that way. To persons who have
+never eaten any, it may appear a strange dish, but let them try it.
+
+_Of Potatoes._--A potato-salad is the one that requires the most
+seasonings, especially oil and vinegar. They are better served warm than
+cold, although many prefer them in the latter state. When steamed,
+peeled, and sliced, put them in the salad-dish, with salt, pepper,
+vinegar, oil, and parsley, to taste. Mix the whole gently and well, and
+serve. If served very warm, butter may be used instead of oil.
+
+_Another._--Add to the above a few anchovies, or slices of pickled
+cucumbers, or capers, or pickled beets.
+
+_Another._--Add to the first some slices of truffles, previously soaked
+in Madeira wine for ten hours, and also a little of the wine.
+
+_Another._--Put a hard-boiled yolk of egg in the salad-dish, with two
+tablespoonfuls of oil, and mix well so as to make a paste of them; then
+add two anchovies, a piece of tunny the size of a nutmeg, and half a
+dozen sprigs of chervil, the whole chopped fine; mix again with the
+rest; add also a chopped pickled cucumber, mustard to taste, vinegar,
+and then the slices of potatoes (warm or cold), slices of truffles
+previously soaked in Madeira wine, a little of the wine also, salt, and
+pepper; stir and mix again well, and serve.
+
+_Apricots, Oranges, Peaches, Pears, Strawberries, Raspberries,
+Blackberries, Currants, and like Berries, in Salad._--Dust the bottom of
+a dish with white sugar, put a layer of slices of apricots, oranges,
+peaches, or pears, or a layer of the others entire, and dust again;
+repeat the same till the whole is in, then add over the whole a pinch of
+grated nutmeg, with French brandy or rum to suit your taste, and serve
+as a dessert.
+
+_Cocoa-nut._--Peel it carefully and soak it in brandy for twenty-four
+hours. A little sugar may be added; serve as a dessert.
+
+_Salad Macedoine._--This salad ought to be called "compound salad," as
+it is made of a little of every thing that can be served in salad, i. e.,
+fish, meat, green and dry vegetables, &c. When the whole is mixed,
+you add chopped parsley, sweet-oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper; you shake
+it till your arms are sore, and you have a salad _Macedoine_. Every one
+should try it; serve as an _entremets_.
+
+_Salmon and Turbot._--Cut in slices, place them in a salad-dish, with
+hard-boiled eggs cut in two, or with some lettuce, and serve as a
+_hors-d'oeuvre_, with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar.
+
+_Of Pineapple._--Proceed as for that of apricots, etc., in every
+particular.
+
+_Of Anchovy._--Clean and bone the anchovies, and then place them in the
+middle of a dish; chop fine some hard-boiled yolks of eggs and put a
+string of it around the anchovies; do the same with the whites, and then
+put a string of chopped parsley around the whites; season with oil and
+very little vinegar. Serve as a _hors-d'oeuvre_.
+
+_Pickles and Preserves._--To pickle the fruit, it must be pickled before
+commencing to ripen, and be sound; the same for vegetables. When the
+fruit or vegetable is clean, and cut in pieces, if necessary, such as
+cabbage, have water on the fire, and drop it in at the first boil. If
+the fruit or vegetable is desired white, add to the water lemon or
+unripe grape juice. It is necessary to be very careful in blanching,
+for, if too much blanched or cooked, it will be soft and tasteless; if
+not enough, it will ferment. As a general rule, it is cooked as soon as
+it floats, but it can be ascertained by running a skewer or a small
+knife through it. By putting some fresh spinach-leaves or fresh
+grape-vine-leaves on the top of the fruit or vegetable, it will keep it
+more green than without. When blanched, take from the fire and drain.
+Drop it immediately in cold water, and drain again. When dry, put the
+fruit or vegetable in jars, cover it with boiling vinegar; season with
+peppers, pepper-corns, cloves, and tarragon, also some rock-salt. When
+perfectly cold, seal the jars air-tight, and keep in a dark, cool, and
+dry closet. Every kind of fruit or vegetables can be pickled in the same
+way; the only difference is in the time of blanching or cooking, which
+is according to the nature of the fruit: _apples_, _string-beans_,
+_beets_, _cabbages_, _cauliflowers_, _cherries_, _cucumbers_, _lemons_,
+_melons_, _mushrooms_, _onions_, _peaches_, _pears_, _plums_,
+_pumpkins_, _quinces_, _radishes_, _walnuts_, etc., may also be
+preserved in salt and water, and in the following way: When cooked as
+above, put them in jars and cover them with very salt water. Seal when
+cool, and then put the jars in a boiler full of cold water, with straw
+or rags to prevent breaking them; set on the fire, boil from twenty to
+thirty minutes, take from the fire, let cool; then take the jars from
+the water and put away as the above.
+
+_Peas_ and _mushrooms_ are almost always preserved in water and salt.
+
+_Asparagus_ is also preserved, but it is so difficult to succeed, that
+even manufacturers of preserves have given it up.
+
+_Tomatoes._--Wash them and then bruise them in a boiler; set on the
+fire, boil half an hour, and strain, to secure all the juice. Put the
+juice on the fire, boil till reduced about one-half, let cool, put in
+jars, seal them, put them in a boiler of cold water, with straw or rags
+to prevent breakage; set the boiler on the fire, boil twenty minutes,
+take off, let cool. When perfectly cold, take the jars off, place in a
+cool, dark cellar, and we warrant that they keep for years. No salt or
+seasonings of any kind are used to preserve them. When you wish to use
+them, season to taste.
+
+_Tomato Catsup._--To make catsup with the above sauce, you have only to
+add to it, when in jars, peppers, pimento, cloves, etc.; but it is
+really not necessary, being too strong for this climate.
+
+_Another way._--Take good and well-ripened tomatoes, clean and wash them
+well, put them in a stewpan and set it on a moderate fire for a while;
+take from the fire, throw away the water coming from them, and then
+strain them into a vessel. Put what there is in the vessel back on the
+fire, and in the same stewpan, and let it reduce about one-half; take
+from the fire, pour in a crockery pot, and leave thus twenty-four hours;
+then put in bottles, cork well, and place them in a cold and dry place.
+
+_Cucumbers_.--The small green ones are the best. Clean them well in cold
+water with a brush, removing the prickles. Put cold water in a vessel
+with rock-salt in it, and shake it to dissolve the salt; soak the
+cucumbers in it for about three days. Take them out and immediately put
+them in pots or jars with small onions, a few cloves of garlic,
+pepper-corns, rock-salt, cloves, and a bunch of seasonings composed of
+bay-leaves, tarragon, and burnet; cover them with boiling vinegar (turn
+the vinegar on them as soon as it boils), cover the pots or jars
+air-tight when perfectly cold. Look at the cucumbers every two or three
+days for the first three weeks, and after that only once in a while.
+According to the quality of the vinegar or of the cucumber itself, the
+whole may turn white after a while; in that case throw away vinegar and
+spices, put new spices in, the same spices as above, except the onions,
+which you keep with the cucumbers; cover again with boiling vinegar, and
+cover when cold as before. If they have not been kept too long in that
+state before changing the vinegar, they will be just as good as if they
+had not turned white.
+
+
+
+
+  EGGS, MACARONI, AND RICE.
+
+
+Eggs are fit to eat as soon as laid, and the sooner they are used the
+better. You ascertain if they are fresh with an oonoscope, or by holding
+them before a light and looking through. There are several ways to
+preserve eggs, but to do which they must be fresh; as soon as perfectly
+cold after being laid, they may be preserved. Dissolve gum in water to
+the consistency of thin mucilage, and with a brush give a coat of it to
+the eggs; lay them in a box of charcoal dust and keep them in a dry,
+dark, and cool place. When wanted, they are soaked in cold water for a
+few minutes, and washed. They are also preserved in hydrate of lime.
+When boiled hard, let them cool and place them in a dry, cool, and dark
+place; they will keep for weeks. If wanted warm after that, put them in
+cold water, set on the fire, and take off when the water is warm.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Cut in strips or fillets four mushrooms, one onion,
+one clove of garlic, and fry them with two ounces of butter, then add a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir for about one minute, add also half a pint
+of broth, same of white wine, boil gently till reduced about one-half,
+when put in the pan eight or ten hard-boiled eggs cut in dice, or cut
+the whites only in dice and put in the yolk whole, boil one minute and
+serve. It makes an excellent dish for breakfast.
+
+_With Cheese and Parsley._--Put about two ounces of butter in a saucepan
+on the fire, and when melted fry in it a tablespoonful of parsley,
+chopped fine; then add a pinch of nutmeg, salt, pepper, about four
+ounces of pineapple or Gruyere cheese, grated, and a gill of white wine;
+stir till the cheese is melted, when you add eight or ten eggs, one
+after another, stirring the whole time and mixing them with the cheese;
+serve when done. More cheese may be used, according to taste.
+
+_In Fricassee._--Put about half a pound of stale bread with one pint of
+milk in a saucepan on the fire and boil for two or three minutes, then
+mash well so as to mix the two together, put back on the fire, stir
+continually till it makes a rather thin paste, then take off, mix with
+it six or eight eggs, grated cheese to taste, salt and pepper, put back
+on the fire, stir, and serve when cooked. Lemon-juice may be sprinkled
+on just before serving.
+
+_A la Lyonnaise._--Chop fine two white onions and fry them with two
+ounces of butter, then add salt, a pinch of nutmeg, half a pint of
+broth; boil gently and stir now and then till it turns rather thick,
+when you add also eight whites of eggs, chopped; give one boil, and
+serve. Place the eight yolks, whole, all around, and between and
+alternately a small cake _feuillete_, and serve warm.
+
+_A la Bechamel._--Slice the eggs or cut them in four pieces lengthwise,
+put them in _Bechamel_ sauce, set on a slow fire for two minutes, and
+serve warm.
+
+_Fines Herbes._--Mix well together in a saucepan, and cold, two ounces
+of butter with a tablespoonful of flour; set on the fire, stir, and when
+melted thoroughly, add a teaspoonful of parsley and one of chives,
+chopped fine, salt, pepper, and about a gill of white wine; stir, and
+boil gently for about five minutes, and turn over hard-boiled eggs in a
+dish; serve warm. The eggs are served whole, shelled, but not cut.
+
+_Piquante-Sauce._--Dish hard-boiled eggs as for _fines herbes_, and turn
+over them a _piquante sauce_; serve warm. They may be served in the same
+way with any other sauce.
+
+_Stuffed, or a l'Aurore._--Cut six hard-boiled eggs in two lengthwise;
+take the yolks off the whites; chop them fine with six or eight sprigs
+of parsley, put both eggs and parsley in a bowl; add salt, pepper, a
+little nutmeg grated, a piece of the soft part of bread soaked in milk
+and squeezed, three ounces of butter, mix the whole well. Then with the
+mixture fill the whites, that is, the place where the yolks were; fill a
+little more than full, so that all the mixture will go into and upon the
+twelve halves. Lay in a saucepan a _puree_ of spinach or of sorrel, or
+of any other vegetable, according to taste; lay the halves of eggs on
+it, the mixture upward; put for ten minutes in the oven, and serve warm.
+
+_In Boxes._--Fold note-paper so as to make a kind of square box without
+a cover; put half an ounce of butter in it with a pinch of chopped
+parsley; lay it on a gridiron and on a slow fire, break an egg in it,
+and when nearly done add salt and bread-crumbs, to taste; serve warm
+when done.
+
+_With Cheese._--Prepare as the above; add grated cheese at the same time
+you add salt and bread-crumbs; finish the cooking, and serve warm.
+
+_Au Gratin._--Chop fine six or eight sprigs of parsley, a shallot if
+handy, or a small onion, half an ounce of the soft part of bread, an
+anchovy, and then mix the whole well with two ounces of butter; mix
+again with two yolks of eggs, place the mixture in a tin dish, place on
+a slow fire, and when getting rather dry break half a dozen eggs over
+it, dust with bread-crumbs, season with salt and pepper, and when nearly
+done spread two yolks of eggs beaten, with a teaspoonful of water over
+the whole, and serve warm.
+
+_With Ham._--Prepare as scrambled eggs with the exception that you put
+in the pan, at the same time you put in the eggs, four ounces of boiled
+ham cut in dice. Serve the same.
+
+_With Milk, Water, or Cream._--These three names are wrongly applied to
+eggs in many cook-books; they are creams, and not eggs.
+
+_Ham and Eggs._--There are several ways of preparing this good dish; the
+ham may be raw or boiled; in slices or in dice; mixed with the eggs, or
+merely served under. Fry the ham slightly, dish it and then turn fried
+eggs over it; or fry both at the same time, the eggs being whole or
+scrambled, according to taste.
+
+_With Asparagus._--Cut in pieces, about a quarter of an inch long, a
+gill of the tender part of asparagus, throw it in boiling water with a
+little salt; boil as directed, and drain. Beat eight eggs just enough to
+mix the yolks with the whites; put them in a stewpan, season with a
+pinch of grated nutmeg, salt, and pepper; add also a tablespoonful of
+warm water, set on a slow fire, stir till they are becoming thick; then
+add four ounces of butter, stir five minutes longer; add the gill of
+asparagus; simmer about five minutes longer, and serve.
+
+_Boiled._--(_See_ Eggs in the Shell.)--Put the eggs in boiling water
+with a little salt, as near as possible at the first boiling; leave from
+five to ten minutes; take out and put them immediately in cold water;
+then shell them without breaking them, and use.
+
+_With Brown Butter._--Break gently in a plate or dish, and without
+breaking the yolks, eight eggs; sprinkle salt and pepper on them. Put
+two ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and on a good fire; when turning
+brown subdue the fire. Put also, and at the same time, the same quantity
+of butter in another frying-pan, and on a good fire, and when hot, place
+the eggs in without breaking the yolks; then spread over the eggs the
+brown butter you have in the other; take from the fire when you see the
+whites becoming hard; put them on a dish, pour on them a tablespoonful
+of vinegar which you have warmed in the pan after having used the brown
+butter, and serve.
+
+_Fried._--Put half a pound of lard in a frying-pan, and on a good fire;
+when hot, break gently, one by one (being careful not to break the
+yolk), the quantity of eggs you can put in the pan without allowing them
+to adhere together; turn them upside down once with a spoon or skimmer;
+take from the pan with a skimmer as soon as the white part becomes hard,
+and serve with fried parsley around.
+
+_Scrambled, or Mashed._--Beat six eggs just enough to mix the whites and
+yolks together; put two ounces of butter in a stewpan, and set on the
+fire; when melted, take from the fire, add salt, pepper, and a pinch of
+grated nutmeg, then the eggs, also a tablespoonful of broth; put back on
+a very slow fire, stir continually till cooked, and serve warm.
+
+_Sur le Plat._--Butter the bottom of a crockery or tin dish with two
+ounces of butter; break into the dish and over the butter, gently and
+without breaking the yolks, six eggs; sprinkle salt, pepper, and grated
+nutmeg all over, put the dish on a slow fire, or on warm cinders, and
+when the white is hard, serve. They must be served in the dish in which
+they are cooked.
+
+_In the Shell._--Bear in mind that some eggs cook quicker than others.
+Put eggs in boiling water for two minutes, if liked soft or underdone;
+and three minutes, if liked more done. They are generally served
+enveloped in a napkin.
+
+_In Matelote._--Put a bottle of claret wine in a stewpan and set it on a
+good fire; add to it two sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, a clove of
+garlic, a middling-sized onion, a clove, a bay-leaf, salt, and pepper;
+boil fifteen minutes; then take all the seasonings out and have your
+wine boiling gently; break one egg in by letting it fall gently in order
+to have it entire, and then take it out immediately with a skimmer, and
+place it on a dish; do the same with eight eggs; keep them in a warm
+(but not hot) place. After which put in the wine, without taking it from
+the fire, four ounces of butter kneaded with a tablespoonful of flour;
+boil till reduced to a proper thickness, pour it on the eggs, and serve.
+
+_With Onions._--Cut in dice three middling-sized onions and put them in
+a saucepan with four ounces of butter; set it on a moderate fire and
+stir now and then till the onions are turning yellow, then sprinkle on
+them a teaspoonful of flour, salt, and pepper; add a pint of warm water
+and boil gently till rather thick, but not too much so. Put into the
+saucepan half a dozen hard-boiled eggs cut in four pieces each,
+lengthwise, boil gently two or three minutes longer, and serve warm.
+
+_With Green Peas._--Proceed as for eggs with asparagus, except that you
+boil a gill of peas instead of asparagus; prepare and serve in the same
+way.
+
+_With Cauliflowers._--Blanch the cauliflowers and proceed as for the
+above. Eggs are prepared as above, with celery, lettuce, etc.
+
+_A la Tripe._--Proceed exactly the same as for eggs with onions, except
+that you use milk or broth instead of water.
+
+_A la Neige, or Floating Island._--Beat four (or more) whites of eggs to
+a stiff froth. Put in a tin saucepan one pint of milk and one ounce of
+sugar, set on the fire, and as soon as it rises put lumps of the whites
+into it with a skimmer, turn the lumps over after having been in about
+half a minute, leave them in another half minute, take them off with a
+skimmer also, place them on a sieve to allow the milk that may be around
+the lumps to drop. Put in a tin saucepan four yolks of eggs, two ounces
+of sugar, and mix well; add the milk that has been used to cook the
+whites, after having strained it, and mix again. Set on the fire, stir,
+give one boil, take off, add a few drops of essence to flavor; turn into
+a dish; place the lumps of whites gently on the liquor and they will
+float, and serve cold. If the liquor is desired thicker, use only half
+of the milk.
+
+_To poach Eggs._--Set cold water on the fire in a frying-pan, with salt
+and vinegar in it, a tablespoonful of vinegar to a quart of water. As
+soon as it boils, break a fresh egg in the water or in a small plate,
+and slide it gently into the water. Then with a skimmer turn the white
+gently and by degrees over the yolk, so as to envelop the latter in the
+former, giving the eggs an elongated shape. They may be poached hard or
+soft--hard when the yolk is cooked hard; soft when the yolk is still in
+a soft state.
+
+_Fondue of Eggs._--Beat well six eggs, and put them in a stewpan with
+two ounces of _Gruyere_, well grated, and about one ounce of butter; set
+on a brisk fire, and leave till it becomes rather thick, stirring all
+the time with a wooden spoon; take from the fire, add pepper, and stir
+a little; turn over on a warm dish, and serve. This is a very favorite
+dish in Italy, and also in Switzerland, where it originated.
+
+_To beat Whites of Eggs._--Have a convenient basin; break the eggs
+gently; allow the whites to fall in the basin and retain the yolks in
+the shell. This is very easily done by breaking the shell about the
+middle, opening slowly so as to let the white fall, and at the same time
+retain the yolk in one of the halves of the shell; if some white
+remains, turn the yolk from one half into the other, and _vice versa_,
+till the whole of it has fallen. Then add a very small pinch of salt to
+prevent the curdling of the eggs; commence by beating slowly; beat
+faster and faster, till they form a stiff froth. They are well beaten
+when, placing a twenty-five and a ten-cent silver piece on the top, they
+are firm enough to bear them. If the pieces sink, beat again. Always
+beat eggs in a cool place, they will rise better and faster. (_See_
+Egg-beater.)
+
+_Basin._--Pay no attention to the old prejudice and belief that metal is
+not good to beat eggs in. The best and easiest for family use, in which
+one as well as a dozen whites of eggs can be easily whisked, is of
+block-tin, and can be made by any tinsmith. It has the shape of an
+ordinary goblet or tumbler if the foot is cut off, the bottom being
+round. Size: six inches deep from the centre of the bottom to the top;
+eight inches in diameter at the top, and only six inches in diameter
+where the bottom commences (or five inches from the top); the basin
+being broader at the top than at the bottom, and the bottom being one
+inch deeper in the centre than on the sides.
+
+_Omelets--how to beat the Eggs._--Break in a bowl the quantity of eggs
+you want, or as many as there are persons at the table; beat them well
+with salt and pepper, by means of a fork. A little grated nutmeg may be
+added, if liked. The adding of milk to the eggs makes the omelet soft.
+
+_To make it._--Always have a brisk fire to make an omelet; the quicker
+it is made the better, and the less butter it requires. If possible,
+have a frying-pan to make omelets only in; keep it in a clean place and
+never wash it if you can help it; by warming it a little before making
+the omelets and wiping it with a coarse towel, you can keep it as clean
+as can be without washing. To wash it causes the omelet to adhere to it
+while cooking, and injures its appearance. Commence by beating the eggs,
+then put the butter in the frying-pan, about two ounces for eight eggs;
+set on the fire and toss gently to melt the butter as evenly and as
+quickly as possible, else some of it will get black before the whole is
+melted. As soon as melted, turn the beaten eggs in, and stir and move
+continually with a fork or knife, so as to cook the whole as nearly as
+possible at the same time. If some part of the omelet sticks to the pan,
+add a little butter, and raise that part with a knife so as to allow the
+butter to run under it, and prevent it from sticking again. It must be
+done quickly, and without taking the pan from the fire. When cooked
+according to taste, soft or hard, fold, dish, and serve warm.
+
+It is _folded_ in this way: run the knife or fork under one part of the
+omelet, on the side nearest to the handle of the pan, and turn that part
+over the other part of the omelet, so as to double it or nearly so; then
+have an oval dish in your left hand, take hold of the frying-pan with
+the right hand, the thumb upward instead of the fingers, as is generally
+the case in taking hold of a pan, incline the dish by raising the left
+side, place the edge of the pan (the one opposite to the handle) on the
+edge of the dish, turn it upside down--and you have the omelet on the
+dish, doubled up and sightly. Cooks do not succeed in turning out a
+decent omelet generally, because they cook it too much, turn it upside
+down in the pan, or because they do not know how to handle the pan.
+
+In holding the pan as it is generally and naturally held, that is, with
+the palm of the hand resting on the upper side of the handle, it is
+impossible for anybody, cook or other, to dish the omelet properly
+without extraordinary efforts; while by resting the thumb on the upper
+part of the handle, the fingers under it, the little finger being the
+nearest to the pan, it is only necessary to move the right hand from
+right to left, describing a circle and twisting the wrist, so that, when
+the pan is turned upside down, the fingers are up instead of downward,
+as they were when taking hold of the pan.
+
+An omelet is called soft if, when you commence to fold, only about
+two-thirds of the eggs are solidified; and hard, when nearly the whole
+of the eggs are solidified. With a good fire it takes only about four
+minutes to make an omelet.
+
+By following our directions carefully, it will be very easy to make an
+omelet, and make it well and sightly, even the first time, and will be
+child's play to make one after a few days' practice.
+
+_With Apples._--Peel two or three apples, cut them in thin, round
+slices, fry them with a little butter, and take them from the pan; then
+put a little more butter in the pan, and when hot, pour in it six beaten
+eggs, in which you have mixed the slices of apples; cook, dish, and
+serve as directed above.
+
+_With Asparagus._--Cut the eatable part of the asparagus half an inch in
+length, throw them in boiling water with a little salt, drain them when
+cooked, and chop them fine; beat them with eggs and a little milk; have
+hot butter in a frying-pan on a good fire; pour the eggs in, tossing
+continually till done, and serve on a dish as directed.
+
+_With Bacon._--Put two ounces of butter in a frying-pan; when melted,
+add two ounces of bacon cut in dice; when turning brown and very hot,
+pour in eight eggs, beaten as directed above; toss the pan nearly all
+the time till done, and serve as directed.
+
+_Au naturel._--Beat five eggs, with salt and pepper, as directed. Put
+about an ounce of butter in a frying-pan on the fire, and when melted,
+turn the eggs in; cook, dish, and serve as directed.
+
+_Aux Fines Herbes._--Proceed as for _au naturel_ in every particular,
+except that you beat with the eggs a tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
+or parsley and chives, when handy; cook, dish, and serve in the same
+way.
+
+_Celestine._--Beat eight eggs as directed. Dip the point of a small
+kitchen knife in water and cut with it little lumps of butter the size
+of a pea and of any shape; about two ounces of it, drop them in the eggs
+and beat a little to mix, then melt butter in a frying-pan and cook,
+dish, and serve as directed.
+
+_In the Oven._--When the omelet _au naturel_ or _Celestine_ is cooked
+enough to commence folding, put the frying-pan in a quick oven for about
+one minute and serve. The omelet swells and does not need folding, but
+if it gains in bulk, it loses in taste.
+
+_Jardiniere._--Chop fine, parsley, chives, onions, shallots, a few
+leaves of sorrel, and a few sprigs of chervil; beat and mix the whole
+well with beaten eggs; cook, dish, and serve as directed. It requires a
+little more butter than if made with eggs only.
+
+_With Cheese._--Grate some pine-apple or _Gruyere_ cheese, about two
+ounces to four or five eggs, and mix and beat it with the eggs; then
+make the omelet as directed.
+
+_With Kidney._--_Saute_ as directed, till about half done, part of a
+beef or calf's kidney, or one sheep's kidney, and mix it with beaten
+eggs. Cook and serve as directed. It makes an excellent dish for
+breakfast. The kidney may be cooked till done, and when the omelet is to
+be folded in the pan, put five or six tablespoonfuls of the kidney on
+the middle of the omelet, fold, dish, and serve as directed. When
+dished, none of the kidney is seen, being under the omelet.
+
+_With Mushrooms._--Cut mushrooms in pieces, and mix them, with beaten
+eggs; then cook and serve them as directed. This also makes an excellent
+dish for breakfast, especially if made with fresh mushrooms.
+
+_With Sorrel._--Make an omelet _au naturel_ or _Celestine_, and serve it
+on a _puree_ of sorrel. The same may be served on a _puree_ of tomatoes
+or onions.
+
+_With Lobster._--Cut two ounces of boiled lobster in small dice, mix it
+well with beaten eggs, and cook and serve as directed.
+
+_With Sugar._--Mix well the yolks of eight eggs with two ounces of fine
+white sugar and a pinch of salt, and beat well the whites; then mix well
+yolks, whites, and the rind of half a lemon, having the latter chopped
+very fine. Put four ounces of butter in a frying-pan, and set it on the
+fire; when melted, pour the eggs in, and toss and stir as directed. Then
+dust a dish with fine white sugar, put the omelet on, then dust again
+the upper side with the same; have ready a red-hot shovel, or any other
+flat piece of iron, pass it over the top of the omelet, so as to color
+it while melting the sugar, and serve warm. The whole process must be
+performed quickly. The sugar may be beaten with the eggs whole; both
+ways are good; it is only a question of taste.
+
+_With Rum._--Make an omelet with sugar as above, and when on the table,
+pour a gill or so of rum on it, set fire to it, and let it burn as long
+as it can, taking slowly but continually with a silver spoon the rum
+from the sides, and pouring it on the middle while it is burning, and
+until it dies out by itself; then eat immediately.
+
+_With Truffles._--Slice four ounces of truffles, beat them with six
+eggs, a little milk, and a little salt and pepper. Put in a frying-pan
+four ounces of butter, and set it on a good fire; when melted, pour the
+eggs in, toss almost continually till done, and serve as directed for
+omelets.
+
+_With Ham._--Cut four ounces of ham in small dice, and set it on the
+fire in a frying-pan with about two ounces of butter; stir, and while
+the ham is frying, beat six eggs and turn them over the ham in the pan
+when the latter is fried; stir with a fork, to cook the eggs as quickly
+as possible; turn the part of the omelet nearest to you over the other
+part by means of a fork, and serve like an omelet _au naturel_.
+
+_With Boiled Ham._--Proceed as for the above in every particular, except
+that you mix the ham with the eggs after the latter are beaten; put the
+mixture in the frying-pan, and finish as the above.
+
+_With Salt Pork (called omelet au Lard)._--Beat half a dozen eggs with a
+fork. Cut four ounces of salt pork in dice, set it on the fire in a
+frying-pan, and when nearly fried turn the eggs in; stir, and finish as
+other omelets. Lean or fat salt pork (according to taste) may be used,
+or both. If it is all lean, use some butter, otherwise it will burn.
+
+_Soufflee._--Put in a bowl four ounces of pulverized sugar with four
+yolks of eggs; then with a wooden spoon mix well and stir for two
+minutes; add a few drops of essence to flavor. Beat the whites of four
+eggs to a stiff froth in another bowl, and when you see that they are
+beaten enough, turn two tablespoonfuls of the yolks and sugar into them,
+and while still beating, but not as fast; then turn the rest of the
+yolks and sugar into the whites, and mix gently with a wooden spoon.
+Butter a tin or silver dish, turn the mixture into it, smooth or scallop
+with the back of a knife, dust with sugar, and bake in an oven at about
+310 deg.. It takes about twelve minutes to bake.
+
+_Another._--Mix well six yolks of eggs with four ounces of sugar; beat
+the six whites to a stiff froth and mix them with the rest, add some
+lemon-rind chopped very fine or grated. Put four ounces of butter in a
+crockery dish, set on a moderate fire, and when the butter is melted
+pour the eggs in; stir with a fork, and as soon as you see some of the
+mixture becoming hard, place the dish in a hot oven for about five
+minutes; take off, dust with sugar, and serve.
+
+_Macedoine, or a la Washington._--Make four omelets of four eggs each,
+one with apples, one with asparagus or sorrel (according to the season),
+a third with _fines herbes_, and the fourth _au naturel_; you serve them
+on the same dish, one lapping over the other. It makes a fine as well as
+a good dish.
+
+This omelet, or rather these omelets, were a favorite dish with the
+Father of his Country; they were very often served on his table when he
+had a grand dinner. It is also served with the four following omelets:
+_au naturel_, with salt pork, _fines herbes_, and with cheese.
+
+_With Oysters._--Blanch a dozen oysters, drain, and beat with the eggs,
+and then proceed as directed.
+
+_With Tunny, or any kind of smoked or salt Fish._--Beat the eggs as
+directed, using little or no salt; then chop the fish fine, mix and beat
+it with the eggs, and cook as directed. It requires a little more butter
+than if there were no fish. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added when
+dished.
+
+_With Sweetmeats._--Make an omelet _au naturel_, and when ready to be
+folded in the pan, place on the middle of it two or three tablespoonfuls
+of any kind of sweetmeats, then fold and serve.
+
+Omelets are served as _entremets_ after the vegetables, and at
+breakfast. All but four are served as _entremets_, and all are served at
+breakfast; the four excepted are: with bacon, ham, salt pork, and
+kidneys. By using different kinds of sweetmeats, an infinite number of
+omelets can be made, and, except the _soufflee_, they are all made
+alike.
+
+_Macaroni._--This excellent article of food is now as well known here as
+in Europe. The harder the wheat the better the macaroni. The
+manufacturers of this country use Michigan flour in preference to any
+other.
+
+_To blanch._--Put about three pints of cold water and a little salt on
+the fire, and at the first boiling drop half a pound of macaroni into
+it; boil gently till tender but not soft. It takes about twenty minutes
+to boil it, according to quality. A little butter, about two ounces, may
+be added in boiling. As soon as tender, turn it into a colander, and it
+is ready for use.
+
+_Au Gratin._--Blanch the macaroni, and when drained put it on a tin or
+silver dish, and mix with it a _Bechamel_ sauce; add salt, pepper, two
+or three ounces of butter, a little nutmeg grated, about four ounces of
+grated cheese, either pine-apple, _Gruyere_, or Parmesan; dust with
+bread-crumbs, put about eight pieces of butter the size of a hazel-nut
+here and there on the top, set in a warm but not quick oven till the top
+turns rather brown, and serve warm as it is, that is, in the dish in
+which it is. If in a tin dish, put it inside of another dish, and serve.
+
+_A l'Italienne._--Blanch half a pound of macaroni and drain it. Put it
+in a saucepan with four ounces of butter, and mix well by stirring the
+butter in the warm macaroni. Then add also three or four tablespoonfuls
+of gravy; mix again half a pint of tomato-sauce and grated cheese, as
+for _au gratin_; set on the fire, stir, add salt to taste; keep on the
+fire for about ten minutes, stirring now and then, and serve warm.
+
+_Napolitaine._--This is the most expensive way of preparing macaroni.
+Wealthy Italians have it prepared with beef a la mode gravy only, or
+gravy made especially for it, with good lean beef cut in dice, and using
+as many as twelve pounds of meat to make gravy for one pound of
+macaroni, the meat being prepared as boiled beef afterward, but it can
+be prepared with ordinary gravy.
+
+Blanch four ounces of macaroni and drain as directed, then put it in a
+saucepan with two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, a little grated
+nutmeg, and set on the fire; stir till the butter is melted, and then
+add grated cheese as directed for _au gratin_, and half a pint of gravy;
+stir and mix for about ten minutes, and serve. Macaroni requires much
+butter; the quantity of cheese is according to taste; some put weight
+for weight of macaroni, butter, and cheese. It is also prepared in a
+mould (_en timbale_) for _chartreuse_; it is macaroni _Napolitaine_,
+when every thing is mixed with it; instead of leaving it ten minutes on
+the fire, put it in the mould, set in the oven for about fifteen
+minutes, turn over a dish, and serve warm. In using much cheese, the
+macaroni will preserve the form of the mould when served.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Proceed as for rice _croquettes_.
+
+_Rice--to boil._--Wash half a pound of rice in water and drain it; put
+it in a saucepan with one quart of broth taken from the top of the
+broth-kettle, and before having skimmed off the fat; set on the fire,
+boil gently for about fifteen minutes, or till rather underdone, and put
+on a very slow fire to finish the cooking. Water and butter may be used
+instead of broth. If the broth is absorbed or boiled away before the
+rice is cooked, add a little more to keep it moist; add salt, pepper,
+and nutmeg to taste, and it is ready for use.
+
+_Another way._--When boiled, place it in a slow oven to dry it, and then
+pour over it, little by little, stirring the while, four ounces of
+melted butter.
+
+_Another._--Wash half a pound of rice in cold water and drain it. Put it
+in a saucepan with two quarts of cold water, salt, and the juice of two
+lemons; boil six minutes, and drain; put it in a saucepan then with
+about six ounces of melted butter; mix, cover the pan well, and put it
+in a slow oven for about half an hour; take off and use.
+
+Rice may be boiled in several different ways, or rather with several
+ingredients. To the above ways, in India or other southern countries,
+they add, besides salt and nutmeg, a teaspoonful of curry-powder to a
+pound of rice. In Italy they add slices of ham, sausage, saffron, and
+even Parmesan cheese. When cooked, chopped truffles may be added at the
+same time with the butter. Oil is sometimes used instead of butter.
+
+_In Border._--When thus prepared, take it with a spoon and place it all
+around the dish, leaving room in the middle to serve a bird, and then
+serve warm.
+
+_Another way._--When prepared as above, put the rice in a mould for
+border; the rice must be rather dry and the mould well buttered. Press
+on it so as to fill the mould well, then put it in an oven at about 350
+deg. Fahr. for ten or twelve minutes. Take off, place a dish on the
+mould, turn it upside down, and remove the mould. The inside of a mould,
+for border, is plain, but the outside and bottom are scalloped; the
+bottom makes the top of the rice when served. There is an empty place in
+the centre to hold a bird.
+
+_Cake._--Butter a mould well and then dust it with sugar. Prepare rice
+as directed for _croquettes_, and instead of spreading it on a dish to
+cool, fill the mould about two-thirds full with it, and bake in a warm
+but not quick oven for about half an hour. Serve on a dish. The mould
+may be prepared with sugar only in this way: put pulverized sugar into
+the mould, set it on a rather slow fire, and when turning rather brown
+turn the mould round and round, so as to have it lined all over with
+sugar; bake as above, turn over a dish, remove the mould, and serve hot
+or cold, with or without a sauce for puddings.
+
+_In Croquettes._--Wash four ounces of rice in cold water and set it on
+the fire with a pint of milk and the rind of half a lemon; when done or
+nearly so, the milk may be boiled away or absorbed by the rice; add a
+little more to keep the rice nearly covered with it. When done, take off
+and mix with it two tablespoonfuls of sugar, two ounces of butter, two
+tablespoonfuls of milk, three yolks of eggs, a little pinch of salt, and
+the same of nutmeg--the latter, if liked. Put back on the fire for one
+minute, stirring the while. Spread the mixture on a dish and let cool.
+If the _croquettes_ are for _breakfast_, the above may be done the
+evening previous. When cold, stir the mixture, so as to mix the upper
+part with the rest that is less dry. Put it in parts on the paste-board,
+about a tablespoonful for each part. Have bread-crumbs on it, roll each
+part of the shape you wish, either round, like a small sausage, or flat,
+or of a chop-shape. Then dip each _croquette_ in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs again, and fry in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.)
+
+To shape them, roll each part round at first, and with a few
+bread-crumbs; then with a knife you smooth both ends, while you roll
+them round with the left hand; the two must be done at the same time.
+When fried and in the colander, dust with sugar, and serve as warm as
+possible. _Croquettes_ are generally served in pyramid. A napkin may be
+spread on the platter, and the _croquettes_ served on it.
+
+_In Fritters._--When a rice-cake is cold, it may be cut in pieces,
+dipped in batter for fritters, fried (_see_ Frying), dusted with sugar,
+and served hot.
+
+_Souffle._--Prepare rice as directed for _croquettes_, and when ready to
+be spread on a dish, add a few drops of essence to flavor; have five
+whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and mix them gently with it;
+butter a mould well, fill it two-thirds full with the mixture, dust with
+sugar and set in a warm but not quick oven, and serve as soon as brown
+and raised. It takes from fifteen to twenty minutes. If the oven is
+warmer under the cake than on the top, it would be necessary to place
+something under the mould, the cake rises better and is lighter. This
+cake, like every _souffle_, must be served promptly and before it falls.
+
+_With Fruit._--This dish is excellent, sightly, easily made, and can be
+varied infinitely. The rice is prepared as for _croquettes_, and is
+used when ready to be spread over a dish to cool. The fruit, if it be
+_apples_, _pears_, _plums_, etc., is stewed. One or several kinds may be
+used for the same dish. It is served warm or cold, according to taste.
+Place a layer of stewed fruit on a dish and then a layer of rice over
+it; another layer of the same or of another stewed fruit, and over it a
+layer of rice. Place as many layers as you fancy, imitating a pyramid,
+and you have a fine dish.
+
+_Rice-water._--This being often prescribed by doctors against
+diarrhroea, we will give the receipt for it. See that the rice is clean,
+but do not wash it. Put one pint of rice in a pan with a quart of cold
+water, and boil gently till the rice is quite soft or a little overdone;
+if the water boils away, fill up with cold water so as to have the rice
+always covered by it. When done, mash it through a colander, put back on
+the fire, add water to make it thin or thick, according to prescription;
+as soon as warm, sweeten to taste with sugar or honey, and take cold or
+warm, also according to prescription.
+
+_Nouilles._--Put four tablespoonfuls of flour on the paste-board; make a
+hole in the middle, and break two eggs in it, add a pinch of salt, and
+knead well; then roll down to a thickness of one-twelfth of an inch;
+dust it slightly with flour; cut it in strips about an inch wide; then
+cut these strips across, so as to make fillets one inch long and
+one-eighth of an inch broad. Spread the strips on a sieve for half an
+hour, to dry them a little. Put cold water and a pinch of salt in a
+saucepan, and set it on the fire; at the first boiling throw the
+_nouilles_ in, boil two minutes, stirring occasionally; drain, throw
+them in cold water and it is ready for use. It may be kept in cold water
+half a day. _Nouilles_ are used to make soup, and are prepared in the
+same and every way like macaroni.
+
+
+
+
+  SWEET DISHES.
+
+
+These are served both as _entremets_ and _dessert_. Many are _entremets_
+at a grand dinner, and _dessert_ at a family dinner. As the name
+indicates, sugar is one of the most important of the compounds used to
+prepare them. It is used in syrup, the making of which is generally more
+difficult than the rest of the operation.
+
+The _father of cooks_, the great Careme, divides syrup, or the "cooking
+of sugar," as he calls it, and as every practitioner has called it
+since, into six degrees; each one corresponding to the six different
+states into which the sugar passes, while on the fire, from the time it
+begins to boil to that when it begins to turn _caramel_ or burned.
+
+A copper pan is the best and handiest of all; it can be done in another,
+but it is more difficult; the sugar turns brown before being thoroughly
+cooked or reduced. Always use good loaf sugar. If it be necessary to
+clarify it, do it in the following way: for five pounds of sugar, put
+the white of an egg in a bowl with half a pint of water, and beat well
+with an egg-beater; then turn into it nearly three pints of water, stir,
+put away half a pint of it to be used afterward. Then add to the rest
+five pounds of sugar, in lumps, set on a rather slow fire, and as soon
+as it comes to a boil, mix with it the half pint put away, little by
+little, skimming off carefully the while, and when no more scum gathers
+on the surface, strain through a towel and commence the working. If the
+sugar does not require to be clarified, that is, when it is good white
+sugar, set five pounds of it on the fire, in a copper pan, with nearly
+two quarts of water, and skim off carefully as soon as the scum gathers.
+It may be stirred a little to cause the sugar to melt evenly, but as
+soon as it commences to boil, stop stirring, else it will turn white and
+stringy. It passes from one state or degree to another in a very short
+time, and must be watched closely. It is at the _first_ degree when, by
+dipping a piece of wood into it so as to retain a drop of it at the end,
+and which you touch with another piece of wood--if, by pulling them
+apart, slowly and immediately, instead of separating it at once, it
+forms a thread, but that soon breaks. It marks then 34 at the
+hydrometer. It is at the _second_ degree when, by repeating the same
+process, the kind of thread formed does not break as easily as the
+first. It marks then 36. It is at the _third_ degree when, by dipping a
+skimmer in it, holding it horizontally and striking it on the pan, then
+blowing on it, it forms small bubbles. It marks 39 at the hydrometer. It
+is at the _fourth_ degree by trying again with the skimmer after a short
+time, and when, instead of forming bubbles, it will fly away like
+threads. It marks then 41. The _fifth_ degree is when, by dipping a
+piece of wood in the sugar and quickly dipping it also in a bowl of cold
+water, shaking it at the same time and then biting it; if it breaks
+easily between the teeth, but at the same time is sticky, it has
+attained the fifth degree, and marks 44. A few boilings more and it is
+at the _sixth_ degree, and by trying in the same way as the preceding
+one, it will break under the teeth, but will not stick to them. Above 44
+the mark is uncertain, the syrup being too thick; it passes from that
+state to that of _caramel_; is colored, and would burn immediately. When
+that happens, make burnt sugar with it according to direction.
+
+_Apples au Beurre._--Peel and core the apples with a fruit-corer. Cut
+slices of stale bread about one-quarter of an inch in thickness, and
+then cut them again of a round shape with a paste-cutter and of the size
+of the apples. Spread some butter on each slice and place an apple on
+each also. Butter a bakepan, place the apples and bread in, fill the
+hole made in the middle of the apple to core it with sugar; place on the
+top of the sugar and on each a piece of butter the size of a hazel-nut,
+and set in a warm, but not quick oven. When about half done, fill the
+hole again with sugar and a pinch of cinnamon, place butter on top as
+before, and finish the cooking, serve warm. When done, they may be
+glazed with apple-jelly and put back in the oven for two minutes; the
+dish is more sightly.
+
+_Flambantes._--Lay apples in a saucepan, after being peeled and cored,
+add sugar to taste, and water enough just to cover them, also a stick of
+cinnamon, and set on a rather slow fire, and leave till done. Take them
+from the pan carefully and without breaking them; place them on a tin or
+silver dish, forming a kind of pyramid or mound; turn the juice over
+them, dust with sugar, pour good rum all over, set it on fire, and serve
+immediately and warm. As soon as on fire it is placed on the table, and
+the host must baste with the rum so as to keep it burning till all the
+alcohol is exhausted, then serve.
+
+The following cut represents either a dish of apples _flambantes_ before
+being in flames, or apples with rice.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_In Fritters._--Peel, core, and cut apples in slices, and then proceed
+as directed for fritters. Serve hot.
+
+_With Wine._--Proceed as for apples _flambantes_ in every particular
+except that you slice the apples, and instead of pouring rum over, you
+pour Madeira wine, and do not set it on fire.
+
+_Meringues._--Peel, quarter, and core half a dozen apples; set them on
+the fire in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of water; stir
+occasionally till done, then mix with them two or three tablespoonfuls
+of sugar, and when cold put them on a tin or silver dish; arrange them
+as a mound on the middle of the dish. Beat three whites of eggs to a
+stiff froth, and mix three ounces of pulverized sugar with them; spread
+two thirds of that mixture all over and around the apples, smooth it
+with a knife; then put the other third in a paper funnel, and by
+squeezing it out, decorate the dish according to fancy. You may squeeze
+some small heaps of the mixture here and there, over and around the
+dish, or squeeze it out all around, giving it a rope-like shape. Dust
+with sugar, and put in an oven at 250 degrees for twenty to twenty-five
+minutes. Serve warm in the dish in which it has been baked.
+
+_Charlotte._--Peel, quarter, and core six apples; put them in a pan with
+two tablespoonfuls of water, cinnamon, and stew till done, when add
+three or four ounces of sugar, mix gently so as not to mash the apples,
+let cool. Butter a mould well, line it, bottom and sides, with strips of
+stale bread, about one quarter of an inch thick, one inch broad, and of
+a proper length for the mould. Fill till about half full with some of
+the apples, then put a rather thin layer of any kind of sweetmeat on the
+apples; finish the filling up with apples; cover with pieces of stale
+bread, bake in an oven at about 340 degrees for about twenty minutes,
+turn over on a dish, remove the mould, and serve hot.
+
+_With Sweetmeats._--Prepare apples _au beurre_, and when ready to be
+served, fill the hole with any kind of sweetmeats or with currant-jelly.
+Serve warm.
+
+_In Pine-Apple._--Core the apples with a fruit-corer and then peel them
+with the scalloped knife (the peels are used to make syrup or jelly),
+place them tastefully on a dish, so that they will form a pyramid,
+filling the place where the core was with sugar and a little cinnamon;
+then pour a little apple-syrup on the whole, and bake. When done, pour a
+little more syrup over, and serve cold or warm.
+
+_Apple-Syrup._--Peel, quarter, and core four or six apples, of the
+pippin variety; cook them well in about a pint of water, a wine-glass of
+brandy, and a pinch of grated cinnamon; when well cooked, put them in a
+coarse towel, and press the juice out; put it in a stewpan and set it on
+a good fire; add a pound of loaf-sugar, take the foam off with a skimmer
+a little before it boils, and boil about five minutes; take from the
+fire, let cool, bottle it, corking well. It may be kept for months.
+Syrup with pears, pine-apple, etc., is made in the same way.
+
+_Blanc-Mange._--Set on the fire in a block-tin saucepan one quart of
+milk with the rind of a lemon and two tablespoonfuls of sugar; stir
+occasionally to melt the sugar. Then mix about six ounces of
+corn-starch with half a pint of milk in a bowl. As soon as the milk
+rises, take it from the fire; take off with a skimmer the rind of lemon,
+and the skin that has formed on the top of the milk; put the milk back
+on the fire; turn the corn-starch into it, stir continually and very
+fast till it is very thick. It will take hardly a minute to get thick.
+Turn into a mould wetted with cold water and put away to cool. When
+perfectly cold, serve with the following sauce: Mix well in a tin
+saucepan two ounces of sugar and two yolks of eggs, then add half a pint
+of milk and mix again; set on the fire; stir continually, give one boil;
+take off; let cool, and serve.
+
+_Blanc-Manger._--Throw in boiling water two ounces of sweet almonds and
+the same of bitter ones, or pour boiling water over them, and then skin
+them as soon as the skin comes off easily. Pound them well with four
+ounces of sugar, lay the whole in a pan with about a pint of water, set
+on the fire, and when on the point of boiling, take off and strain. Put
+in a tin saucepan about a pint of milk, the strained juice, an ounce of
+gelatin, a little rind of lemon, and a little nutmeg, both grated; set
+the whole on a moderate fire; simmer just enough to melt the gelatin and
+mix it with the rest, and then strain. Wet a mould with cold water, put
+the mixture in it, set it on ice, and serve when cool. It may be served
+with a sauce like the above.
+
+_Charlotte Russe._--Wipe a mould well, see that it is dry, and then line
+the bottom and sides with lady's-fingers, or sponge cake cut in pieces
+about the size of a lady's-finger. Commence by lining the bottom,
+placing the pieces so as to form a star or rosette, or plain, according
+to fancy. Then place some of them upright all around, rather tight, and
+even with the top of the mould. Fill with cream, well whipped,
+sweetened, and flavored with essence; place the mould on ice, and when
+ready to serve, place a dish on it, turn upside down, remove the mould,
+and serve as it is, or decorated.
+
+_To decorate._--Make a paper funnel, fill it with cream, or icing (sugar
+and white of egg worked), then spread some all over the top according to
+fancy; it is quickly done and is sightly. The mould may also be filled
+with some other cream; as _creme legere_, _creme cuite_, etc.
+
+_Charlotte a la Chantilly._--It is a _Charlotte_ made exactly as the
+above one, but filled with _creme a la Chantilly_.
+
+_A la Polonaise._--Make a sponge cake, cut it transversely, dip each
+piece in cream (any kind) and then place them back where they were so as
+to give the cake its original form as near as possible. When thus
+re-formed, cover it with cream, dust with sugar, and decorate with any
+kind of sweetmeats. Besides the sweetmeats that are placed here and
+there all around, some currant-jelly may also be used to decorate. Place
+on ice for some time, and serve.
+
+_Italian._--Peel, quarter, and core about a quart of pears and set them
+on a rather slow fire, in a saucepan with half a pint of white wine,
+sugar, cinnamon, and lemon-rind. While they are cooking, line a mould as
+for _Charlotte Russe_, remove the lemon-rind, and fill the mould with
+the pears; place it on ice when cool, turn over on a dish, remove the
+mould, decorate with icing, or cover entirely with apple-jelly, and
+serve. It is also made with _genoise_ cake instead of sponge cake.
+
+_Francaise._--This is prepared and served like a _Charlotte Russe_, with
+the exception that it is filled with _blanc manger_ or _fromage a la
+creme_ instead of cream.
+
+_Of Fruit._--This is made of cherries or any kind of berries; cherries
+must be stoned carefully. Dip the fruit in wine-jelly as soon as the
+latter is cool, but not firm, and line a mould with it. By having the
+mould on ice it will be more easily done. Fill the mould with cream, as
+for _Charlotte Russe_, place on ice, and serve as soon as congealed.
+When the mould is taken from the ice, dip it in warm water a few
+seconds, place a dish over it, turn upside down, remove it, and serve
+immediately. A _Charlotte_ of fruit is sightly enough without
+decorations; it requires some time to make it, but it is worth the
+trouble, being a handsome as well as a good dish.
+
+_Another._--Line a mould as for the above. Put one ounce of gelatin in a
+bowl with about three tablespoonfuls of water and leave it so for about
+half an hour. Mix well together in a saucepan four yolks of eggs and
+three ounces of pulverized sugar, add about three tablespoonfuls of
+milk, and mix again; set on the fire and stir for about three minutes,
+add the gelatin, stir again, give one boil, and put away to cool a
+little. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, turn the above
+mixture into them, mix gently again; fill the mould with the whole,
+place on ice till perfectly cold. When cold, turn upside down on a dish,
+remove the mould, decorate as the preceding one, and serve cold.
+
+_Cheese with Cream--(Fromage a la Creme_).--This is made in different
+ways; sometimes with soft curds only, or with curds and cream, or with
+cream only when very thick. Gelatin dissolved in a little water may also
+be added. The curds or cream, or both, are beaten with an egg-beater,
+sweetened to taste with sugar, and flavored with essence. To make it
+more sightly, when beaten and flavored, it is moulded, placed on ice to
+make it firm, and then turned over a dish, the mould removed, and then
+served. Any kind of essence may be used to flavor it, such as vanilla,
+_fleur d'oranger_, rose-water, violet, etc.; it may also be made with
+coffee, tea, chocolate, orange, lemon, etc. Put a few drops of very
+strong coffee, or tea, or chocolate at the same time with the sugar and
+essence.
+
+With orange or lemon, rub them on a piece of sugar, which you pound and
+use to sweeten the cheese. Three or more different ones may be made with
+a quart of curds; for instance, flavor one third of it with essence,
+another third with coffee or chocolate, and the other with orange. The
+colors will be different also. It is an excellent and refreshing
+_entremets_ in summer-time. Cheese may also be flavored with pine-apple
+cut in very small dice and mixed with it instead of essence.
+
+_Compotes, or Jams.--How to make syrup for Compotes.--Common
+Syrup._--Put a pound of loaf-sugar in a crockery stewpan, with a pint of
+water, a wine-glass of brandy, and a pinch of well-grated cinnamon; set
+it on a slow fire, boil gently for ten minutes, skimming off the foam;
+then take from the fire and let cool; bottle it; cork it well and keep
+it to use when wanted. It may be kept for months in a cool and dry
+place.
+
+Stewed fruit of any kind is called either _compote_ or jam. They are
+first peeled and cored and then cooked with sugar, water, and sometimes
+cinnamon, or cloves, both in powder and according to taste; also
+lemon-juice or rind to taste. Cinnamon agrees well with any kind of
+apples, but is not liked by every one in every kind of fruit. The fruits
+may be cooked and served whole, in halves, or quarters, or mashed,
+according to fancy and taste. The proportions of water and sugar are
+also according to taste, or according to the nature or state of the
+fruit. Sour apples require more sugar than sweet ones, unripe berries
+require more also than ripe ones. The preparation is very simple; not
+being prepared to keep, they are served as soon as cold. They may be
+served warm, but they are certainly not as good. When there is not syrup
+(juice) enough, pour some of the above over the fruit, or some
+apple-syrup. The peels and cores of the apples may be used to make
+syrup, together with those of pears.
+
+While peeling, coring, or cutting fruit, drop each in cold water, else
+it changes color and is unsightly.
+
+When cold, the _compote_ may be put in a mould; turn over a dish, remove
+the mould, and serve. Several kinds may be served on the same dish as
+well as one; being of different colors, the dish is more sightly, and
+quite as good. Loaf-sugar is the best.
+
+Instead of cooking them with water, etc., as directed above, put some
+syrup on the fire, and as soon as it boils, drop the prepared fruit in
+it, and boil slowly till done.
+
+_Of Apples._--Quarter, peel, core, and put apples in a stewpan with a
+gill of water for two quarts, sugar and cinnamon to taste; when done,
+dish them, pour the juice in the stewpan all over, and serve cold. If
+there is not juice enough, add some apple-syrup.
+
+_Of Apricots or Peaches._--Take two quarts of apricots or peaches and
+cut them in two, remove the stones. Throw them in boiling water for two
+minutes and take off; drop in cold water and take out immediately, then
+skin them. Put about half a pint of water in a crockery pan or in a
+well-lined one, and at the first boil put the peaches in, with sugar to
+taste; boil gently till done, turn the whole over a dish, and serve
+cold. If there is not juice or syrup enough, add a little common syrup.
+
+_Of Blackberries, Currants, Raspberries, Strawberries, and other like
+Berries._--Prepare syrup of sugar, and when at the second, third, or
+fourth state, throw the berries in; boil from one to five minutes,
+according to the kind, take from the fire, and serve when cold.
+
+_Of Cherries._--Cut off the stalks of the cherries about half their
+length, wash well and drain them. Put them in a stewpan in which there
+is just enough syrup at the first degree to cover them; boil slowly till
+cooked, and serve.
+
+_Of Oranges._--Peel four oranges, and divide each carpel without
+breaking it, and then throw them in syrup of sugar at the fourth or
+fifth degree, and boil slowly three or four minutes; take from the fire,
+let cool, and serve.
+
+_Of Pears._--Peel the pears, cut the stem half its length, put them in a
+stewpan with a little sugar, a few drops of lemon-juice, a pinch of
+cinnamon, and a little water. Set on a moderate fire, and at the first
+boiling add two gills of claret wine. Simmer till cooked, then put the
+pears only on a dish; set the stewpan back on the fire, add to the juice
+in it about the same quantity of syrup of pears or of syrup of sugar at
+the third degree, boil fifteen minutes longer, pour the whole on the
+pears, and serve warm or cold.
+
+_Of Lemons._--Peel the lemons, cut them in pieces, remove the seeds, and
+proceed as for that of oranges, boiling a little longer.
+
+_Of Pine-Apple._--Peel and cut in slices, put them in a crockery pan,
+with a little water and sugar, set on a good fire, and finish and serve
+like apricots.
+
+_Of Plums._--Throw the plums in boiling water, and take them out when
+half cooked; put them in a crockery stewpan, with a little water and a
+little sugar; simmer till cooked, place them on a dish, pour some
+common syrup on, and serve when cold.
+
+_Of Quinces._--Quarter, peel, and core the quinces; throw them in
+boiling water for five minutes; take out and drain them; put them in a
+crockery stewpan, with four ounces of sugar for every pound of quinces,
+a few drops of lemon-juice, a little water, and a pinch of grated
+cinnamon; set it on the fire, simmer till cooked, place them on a dish,
+pour some common syrup on them, and serve cold.
+
+_Of Chestnuts._--Roast about one quart of chestnuts, remove the skin and
+pith, lay them in a pan with half a gill of water and four ounces of
+sugar; set on a slow fire, toss now and then till the sugar and water
+are absorbed or evaporated, turn over a dish, dust with sugar, and serve
+warm or cold. A few drops of lemon-juice may be added just before
+dusting with sugar.
+
+_Cold Compote._--Wash strawberries and raspberries in cold water, drain
+dry, and place them on a dish. Pour boiling common syrup or boiling
+currant-jelly all over; let cool, and serve.
+
+_Of Cranberries._--Put one pint of water in a tin saucepan, with six
+ounces of loaf-sugar, the rind of half a lemon, and set it on the fire;
+boil down until, by dipping a spoon in it, it adheres to it. Then throw
+in it about one pint of cranberries; boil about twelve minutes, stirring
+now and then, take off, let cool, and serve.
+
+_Another._--After having boiled ten minutes in the same way as above,
+and with the same proportions of sugar, cranberries, etc., take from the
+fire, mash through a fine colander or sieve, put back on the fire, boil
+gently five minutes, let cool, and serve.
+
+_Creams or Cremes au Citron_ (_with Lemon_).--Put one pint of milk in a
+tin saucepan with the rind of a lemon; set on the fire, and as soon as
+it rises place an iron spoon in it and boil gently five minutes; take
+from the fire. Mix well in a bowl four ounces of sugar with four yolks
+of eggs, then turn the milk into the bowl, little by little, stirring
+and mixing at the same time. Strain the mixture and put it in small
+cups; put the cups in a pan of boiling water, boil gently for about ten
+minutes, and put in the oven as it is, that is, leaving the cups in the
+water. The cups must not be more than half covered with water, else the
+water will fly into it. It takes from ten to fifteen minutes to finish
+the cooking in the oven, according to the size of the cups. Take them
+from the oven when the _creme_ is rather firm, except a little spot in
+the middle, and which you ascertain by moving the cups.
+
+Anyone with an ordinary amount of intelligence can make creams as well
+as the best cooks, after having tried only two or three times. When you
+know how to make one, you can make fifty, just by using different
+flavorings.
+
+_Au Cafe (with Coffee_).--The stronger the coffee the better the cream.
+The most economical way of making strong coffee is: when you intend to
+have cream with coffee for dinner, put the first drops that fall, when
+you make the coffee for breakfast, into a glass; put it immediately in
+cold water, and as soon as cool cover it with paper, which you tie
+around it with twine, and use when you make the cream.
+
+Always use good fresh milk and fresh eggs. As soon as the whites of the
+eggs are separated from the yolks, put them, together with the shells,
+on ice, and use the next day to clarify your jellies, or to make icing,
+etc. A little care is a great saving in the kitchen.
+
+Put one quart of milk in a milk-pan on the fire and take off as soon as
+it rises. While the milk is on the fire, mix well together in a bowl
+eight yolks of eggs with half a pound of sugar, and coffee to flavor;
+then turn the milk into the mixture, little by little, stirring the
+while; when the whole is thoroughly mixed, strain it. Put the mixture in
+cream-cups, place the cups in a pan of boiling water--enough water to
+half cover them; boil slowly for about ten minutes, put the pan and cups
+in a moderately-heated oven, and take off when done. It takes from ten
+to fifteen minutes to finish the cooking, according to the size of the
+cups. It is done when the whole is solidified except a little spot in
+the centre, which, by moving the cups, will shake somewhat. Serve cold.
+
+_With Burnt Sugar._--Put two ounces of sugar in a small tin pan, with a
+tablespoonful of water, set on the fire, and boil till burnt and of a
+light-brown color; take off, and put it in a stewpan with a pint of
+milk, four ounces of white sugar, a few drops of rose or orange-flower
+water; boil ten minutes, stirring occasionally; take from the fire, beat
+the yolks of two eggs, and one entire, put in the pan and mix the whole
+well, then strain, after which you put the mixture in small cream-pots
+for that purpose; place them in a hot but not boiling _bain-marie_, and
+as soon as it thickens take them out, dust them with fine white sugar,
+let cool; place them on ice for about fifteen minutes, and then it is
+ready to be served.
+
+_With Chocolate._--Put in a stewpan and on a moderate fire six ounces of
+chocolate, three tablespoonfuls of water, three ounces of white sugar,
+stir now and then with a wooden spoon till melted; then pour in it,
+little by little, a quart of good fresh milk; boil ten minutes, take
+from the fire, and mix in it one egg well beaten with the yolks of five
+others; strain through a fine sieve, put in cream-pots or cups, place
+them in a hot but not boiling _bain-marie_, take off as soon as it
+thickens, dust with fine white sugar, let cool, place on ice for about
+fifteen minutes, and use.
+
+_With Orange._--Use orange-rind, and proceed as for lemon-cream in every
+other particular.
+
+_With Tea._--Proceed with strong tea as for cream _au cafe_ in every
+other particular.
+
+_With Essence._--Make cream _au cafe_, with the exception that, instead
+of using coffee to flavor, you use a few drops of vanilla, rose-water,
+orange-flower water, violet, cinnamon, etc.--any kind of essence, to
+taste.
+
+_With Cinnamon._--Beat well together in a bowl about an ounce of
+potato-starch, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, four eggs, four ounces of
+sugar, and milk enough to make a rather liquid batter. Turn the mixture
+into a mould, which put into a pan of boiling water for fifteen minutes,
+then place in the oven till cooked. Serve cold.
+
+_Cuite._--Put two ounces of sugar in a tin pan with two eggs, and mix
+well; then add an ounce of flour, little by little, mixing the while;
+then, in the same way, add also about a pint of boiled milk; set on the
+fire, stir continually till it turns rather thick; take off, flavor with
+essence to taste, let cool, and serve or use for filling.
+
+_Frangipane._--Set one pint of milk on the fire. Mix well together in
+another pan three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two of flour, three eggs,
+three macaroons crumbled, and as soon as the milk rises, turn the
+mixture into it, little by little, stirring and mixing the while; keep
+stirring about three minutes; take off, add a few drops of essence to
+flavor; turn into a bowl, let cool, and it is ready for use. It may be
+made without the macaroons.
+
+_With Almonds._--Make as the above, with the exception that you use
+sweet almonds, chopped fine, instead of macaroons.
+
+_With Hazel-nuts._--Proceed as above, using hazel-nuts instead of
+almonds.
+
+_Legere._--Mix well together in a tin saucepan five yolks of eggs and
+five ounces of sugar; add four tablespoonfuls of milk, and mix again.
+Set the pan on the fire, and stir continually till it turns rather
+thick; take off, and add a few drops of essence; turn into a plate or
+dish and let cool. When cold, beat five whites of eggs to a stiff froth;
+have somebody to pour in the whites, and, while you are still beating,
+about two tablespoonfuls of the cold mixture, and stop beating. Then
+turn the rest of the mixture into the whites, and mix the whole together
+gently; do not stir too much, but move round and round with a wooden
+spoon, and it is done. If it is stirred too much, it may become too
+liquid. It makes an excellent and light cream.
+
+_Patissiere._--Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and then mix
+about one ounce of pulverized sugar with them. Put four yolks of egg in
+a bowl with half a gill of milk, and beat well till thoroughly mixed.
+Put in a saucepan about two ounces of pulverized sugar, with a
+teaspoonful of potato-starch (_fecula_), and two-thirds of a gill of
+milk, and mix the whole well; then add the eggs and milk, and beat the
+whole well with an egg-beater. Set the pan on a rather slow fire, stir
+continually with a wooden spoon till it turns rather thick, and then
+turn the four whites and sugar into the pan also, little by little,
+stirring the while, and take off when thoroughly mixed. As soon as off
+the fire, add essence to flavor, and about one-quarter of an ounce of
+gelatine, dissolved in tepid water. Serve, or use to fill when cold.
+
+_Renversee._--Make cream with tea, coffee, or chocolate, and instead of
+turning the mixture into cream pots, turn it into a mould lined with
+burnt sugar; place the mould in boiling water for about fifteen minutes,
+place it in the oven to finish the cooking, turn over a dish, remove the
+mould, and serve cold. To line the mould, put two or three
+tablespoonfuls of pulverized sugar in it; set it on a slow fire, and
+when the sugar is melted and turning brown, move the mould round and
+round to spread the sugar all over; then put the cream in it.
+
+_Sweet Cream._--We mean here the oily substance which forms a scum on
+milk; also called _whipped cream_. It is used to make Charlotte Russe,
+to fill _meringues_, _choux_, or cream-cakes, etc.
+
+Put a pint of good thick cream in a bowl, and if the weather is warm,
+place the bowl on ice for half an hour, then beat the cream with an
+egg-beater till stiff and thick. If the cream does not become stiff
+after having beaten it fifteen or twenty minutes at the longest, it is
+not good, or it is too warm. Good cream may rise and become stiff in
+five minutes. When beaten, add to it about four ounces of pulverized
+sugar, which you mix gently with it, not stirring too much; add also a
+few drops of essence to flavor. If wanted very stiff, add also, after
+the sugar, half an ounce of gelatin, melted in a little tepid water.
+When beaten and mixed, if not used immediately, it must be put on ice.
+
+_Chantilly._--It is the above cream flavored with _fleur d'orange_
+(orange-flower water), or with essence of violet.
+
+_Ice Cream._--Made with cream it is richer than with milk. With eggs it
+is better and richer than without, and those that advocate it without
+eggs, either have no palate, or do not know how to use them in making
+it.
+
+The addition of starch, fecula, arrow-root, flour, meal, etc., spoils
+it. The proportions are, to a quart of milk or cream: from four to six
+eggs; from eight to fourteen ounces of pulverized sugar; essence, or
+chocolate, or fruit-jelly to flavor and color. Our receipt is for six
+eggs and fourteen ounces of sugar to a quart of milk.
+
+Set the milk on the fire, and when it comes to a boil, mix well half the
+sugar and the essence with six yolks and three whites of eggs; beat the
+three other whites separately to a stiff froth. As soon as the milk
+rises, take it from the fire, put half the sugar in it and stir to melt
+it, then turn the mixture into it also, little by little, beating the
+while with an egg-beater; set on the fire, and take off at the first
+boiling. While on the fire it must be beaten gently, as, if it is
+allowed to boil, the eggs may curdle. As soon as off the fire, mix the
+three whites with the rest, beating with an egg-beater, just enough to
+mix the whole well; put in cold, salt water to cool, and then freeze.
+
+The smaller the ice is broken and mixed with plenty of rock-salt, the
+quicker it freezes.
+
+_Custard._--Put four yolks of eggs in a bowl, then sprinkle flour on
+them, little by little, stirring and mixing well the while with a wooden
+spoon, and when the mixture is rather thick, stop sprinkling flour, but
+sprinkle milk, and mix again in the same way till the mixture is liquid;
+add sugar and essence to taste, beat the four whites to a stiff froth,
+mix them gently with the rest; butter a mould well, fill it about
+two-thirds full with the mixture, and set in a warm but not quick oven.
+Serve as soon as out of the oven. If intended to be served cold, omit
+the whites of eggs.
+
+_Fritters._--These are made with every kind of fruit, when ripe, peeled
+and stoned, or cored when necessary, and according to the kind. The
+fruit is used whole, such as strawberries and the like; or in slices,
+such as apples, pears, etc.; or in halves, like peaches, plums, etc. It
+may be used as soon as prepared; or may be soaked a few hours in a
+mixture of sugar, brandy, or rum, and lemon-rind.
+
+Have _batter for fritters_ made in advance, and while you are preparing
+the fruit heat the fat (_see_ Frying), dip each fruit or each slice in
+batter, drop it in the fat, stir and turn over, and when done, turn into
+a colander, dust well with fine white or pulverized sugar, and serve as
+warm (or rather as hot) as possible. Even the best fritters served cold
+make a very poor dish. Besides fruit, the blossoms of the acacia and
+those of the violet make the most delicate fritters.
+
+_With Bread or Pain perdu._--Set one pint of milk on the fire with two
+ounces of sugar, and the rind of half a lemon, stir now and then, and
+when it rises add a few drops of essence to flavor, then take off and
+soak in it slices of bread, cut with a paste-cutter and about half an
+inch thick. When well soaked, drain; dip them in beaten egg, roll in
+bread-crumbs, and fry and serve as fritters.
+
+_Glazed Fruit--Oranges glazed._--Oranges or any other fruit glazed, when
+mounted in a pyramid, is called _croque en bouche_.
+
+Peel the oranges; then divide the carpels and free them from the pith,
+and put them away in a warm place for a few hours; they may be left over
+night. Cut very fine wire in pieces about eight inches long, bend each
+piece at both ends, forming a hook; then run one end or hook through the
+carpel of orange, and hang it on a stick placed on something
+horizontally. In order not to spill any of the juice, hook the orange
+near the edge of that part that was the centre of the orange before
+being divided, and as the other end of the wire forms a hook also, it is
+easy to hang it.
+
+Prepare syrup of sugar, and when at the sixth degree take it from the
+fire, dip each carpel of orange into it and hang it again, and so on for
+the whole. As soon as dry enough to handle them, which takes hardly half
+a minute, pull off the wire and serve when perfectly cold.
+
+To mount them in pyramid is not difficult, but requires time. When they
+are cold, prepare again the same syrup of sugar as above, and take it
+from the fire. While the sugar is on the fire take a tin mould, a plain
+one, larger at the top than at the bottom, and slightly grease it with
+sweet-oil. A convenient size for a family is, seven inches high, six
+inches broad at the top, and only four inches at the bottom.
+
+Place one carpel of orange, resting on the bottom of the mould, along
+the side and the edge upward; as soon as the sugar is out of the fire,
+dip one of the two ends of another carpel into it, the edge only, and
+immediately place it as the first one, and touching it. The syrup being
+hot and liquid, the two pieces will adhere; do the same with others till
+you have one row around the bottom. Commence a second row as you did the
+first, but this time the first carpel you place must be dipped in sugar,
+in order to adhere to the first row, and all the others must also be
+dipped so as to adhere not only to the first piece placed, but also to
+the first row; and so on for each row till the mould is full, or till
+you have as much as you wish. As soon as cold, place a dish on the
+mould, turn upside down, and remove the mould. You have then a sightly
+dish, but not better than when served only glazed.
+
+_Another way to make it._--Grease with oil your marble for pastry, place
+the same mould as above over it but upside down, that is, the broader
+end down; grease the outside also with oil. Then place the rows of
+carpels of oranges all around outside of it, and in the same way as
+described above. The _croque en bouche_ is more easily made this last
+way, but it is more difficult to remove the mould. Mould and fruit must
+be turned upside down carefully, after which the mould is pulled off.
+
+If the syrup gets cold, it hardens, and cannot be used; in that state,
+add a little water and put it back on the fire, but it is difficult to
+rewarm it; generally it colors and is unfit. When that happens, make
+burnt sugar with it, or a _nougat_. It is better and safer to make a
+little of it, just what can be used before it gets cold, and if not
+enough, make some a second and even a third time. While the sugar is
+hot, and while you are dipping the fruit in it, be careful not to touch
+it, as it burns badly. In glazing the fruit first, some syrup falls in
+taking it from the pan to the stick; place your marble board, greased
+with oil, under, so that you can pick it without any trouble and use it.
+
+_Chestnuts, glazed._--Roast the chestnuts, skin them well, then hook,
+dip, and hook again on the stick as directed for pieces of oranges. A
+pyramid also may be made, and a sightly one it makes.
+
+_Cherries._--They must be picked with their stems, and by which you tie
+two together with a piece of twine. See that they are clean and dry, and
+have two sticks instead of one, placed parallel, about two inches apart,
+in order to prevent the two cherries from touching, when hung, as they
+would immediately adhere. Proceed for the rest as described for oranges.
+
+_Pears._--Small, ripe pears are excellent glazed; peel them, but leave
+the stem on, and then proceed as with cherries in every particular.
+
+_Strawberries or any other Berries._--The berries must be picked with
+the stem. Wash them in cold water, drain, dry, or wipe carefully, and
+then proceed as for cherries in every particular. A more delicate dish
+than strawberries or raspberries glazed cannot be made.
+
+_Grapes._--When clean, proceed as described for cherries.
+
+_Plums._--Take plums, well ripened and with the stems on, and proceed as
+with cherries.
+
+_Prunes._--Soak the prunes in tepid water, and when dry, hook them like
+carpels of orange, and finish in the same manner.
+
+_Currants._--When clean and dry, tie two clusters together, and proceed
+as for cherries.
+
+_Pine-Apple._--Cut pine-apple in dice, and proceed as described for
+carpels of orange.
+
+_Iced Fruit._--As a general rule, the more watery the fruit the more
+reduced the syrup of sugar must be. If it is not reduced enough, small
+pieces of ice, formed by the water of the fruit, will be found while
+eating it. The fruit must be ripe. It is done also with preserved fruit.
+It is impossible to tell exactly the degree or state of the fruit and
+syrup without a hydrometer.
+
+The following _preparation_ may be added to the fruit, or to _punch_, as
+soon as it begins to freeze; it is not indispensable, but gives it more
+body: Put one pound of loaf-sugar in a copper pan with two gills of cold
+water, set on the fire, stir now and then till it comes to a boil, then
+boil till it is at the fifth state or 43 deg., and take off. Beat four
+whites of eggs to a stiff froth, flavor with essence of vanilla, and
+turn the sugar into the eggs, little by little, but do not stop beating
+until the whole is in. Then move the mixture gently round with a spoon
+for about a minute, and it is ready for use.
+
+_With Peaches, Apricots, or Plums._--The following proportions are for
+one pint of juice. Peel and stone the fruit carefully, then mash it
+through a sieve into a bowl. Make one pint of syrup of sugar at 32 deg., and
+when cold turn it into the bowl and mix it with the pint of juice, add
+the juice of a rather large orange and a little of the rind grated, mix
+again, freeze as directed for ice-cream, and serve.
+
+_With Currants, Lemons, Oranges, Pears, Pine-Apples, Strawberries, and
+other Berries._--Proceed as for peaches in every particular, except that
+you press the juice of the currants and berries through a towel instead
+of mashing them through a sieve, and that you use the syrup at 44 deg. for
+them also; the others are peeled and cored or seeded.
+
+_With Melons._--Proceed as for peaches, except that you add to the
+mixture a little _kirschwasser_.
+
+_With Preserved Fruit._--Use the syrup at 30 deg., and proceed as for
+peaches in every other particular.
+
+_Iced Coffee._--Make strong coffee, and when cold mix it with the same
+volume of thick cream, sweeten to taste, freeze, and serve.
+
+_Iced Chocolate._--Break in pieces about four ounces of chocolate, and
+set it on a slow fire in a tin pan, with two tablespoonfuls of water;
+when melted take it from the fire, add a gill of warm water, and work it
+with a spoon for five minutes; then mix it with the same volume of syrup
+of sugar at 30 deg., freeze and serve. The syrup is used when cold.
+
+_Iced Tea_ is made as iced coffee.
+
+_Sweet Jellies--Wine Jelly._--Soak two ounces of gelatin in a gill of
+cold water for about half an hour. Put in a block-tin saucepan three
+eggs and shells, three ounces of sugar, one quart of cold water; beat a
+little with an egg-beater to break the eggs, and mix the whole together;
+add also a few drops of burnt sugar, same of essence, rum, according to
+taste, from half a gill to half a pint, then the gelatin and water in
+which it is; set on a good fire, stirring slowly with an egg-beater, and
+stopping once in a while to see if it comes to a boil, when, stop
+stirring, keep boiling very slowly for two or three minutes, and turn
+into the jelly-bag, which you do as soon as clear; the process requires
+from two to three minutes. While it is boiling take a few drops with a
+spoon, and you will easily see when it is clear. Pass it through the bag
+three or four times, turn into a mould, put on ice, and when firm, put a
+dish on it, turn upside down, remove the mould, and serve.
+
+_Jelly Macedoine._--Make the same jelly as above, and pass it through
+the bag also; put some in a mould, say a thickness of half an inch, have
+the mould on ice; then, as soon as it is firm, place some fruit on that
+layer and according to fancy; and, with a tin ladle, pour more jelly
+into the mould, but carefully and slowly, in order not to upset the
+fruit you have in; continue pouring till you have a thickness of about
+half an inch on the fruit. Repeat this as many times as you please, and
+till the mould is full; vary the fruit at each layer, and especially the
+color of the different kinds. The color of the jelly may also be changed
+at every layer, by mixing in it more burnt sugar, some carmine or
+cochineal, some green spinach, a little in one layer and more in
+another. Any kind of ripe fruit can be used: strawberries, raspberries,
+stoned cherries, grapes, apples cut in fancy shapes; also peaches,
+bananas, etc.
+
+_Cold Wine-Jelly._--Put two ounces of gelatin in a bowl with a piece of
+cinnamon and a pint of cold water, and let stand about an hour. Then
+pour over about a quart of boiling water, and let stand about four
+minutes. After that, add two pounds of sugar, the juice of three lemons,
+a pint of sherry wine, and half a gill of brandy. Stir to dissolve the
+sugar, and turn the mixture into a mould through a strainer; place on
+ice, and serve as the above jellies.
+
+_Souffles._--Put in a bowl four tablespoonfuls of potato-starch with
+three yolks of eggs, one ounce of butter, and a few drops of essence to
+flavor. Turn into it, little by little, stirring the while, about three
+gills of milk; set on the fire, stir continually, and take off at the
+first boiling. Stir continually but slowly. As soon as cold, beat three
+yolks of eggs with a tablespoonful of cold water, and mix them with the
+rest. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and mix them also
+gently and slowly. Butter a mould well, fill it about two-thirds full,
+and bake in a warm but not quick oven (about 300 deg. Fahr.). Besides being
+flavored with essence, _souffles_ may be flavored with coffee, lemon,
+orange, etc., according to taste. Generally, _souffles_ are served under
+the name of the object used to flavor them, such as _souffle au cafe_
+(_souffle_ flavored with strong coffee), etc. They are all made in the
+same way as the above one, with the exception that they are flavored
+with strong coffee as above, and used instead of essence, or strong tea,
+chocolate, etc., or with a little jelly of different fruit, or with
+roasted chestnuts well pounded, instead of potato-starch, etc.
+
+A hundred different kinds of _souffles_ can be easily made by following
+the above directions.
+
+_Apples, fried._--Peel and cut in small dice, dropping them in cold
+water till the whole is ready. Then fry with a little butter till about
+half cooked, when add a little water and sugar to taste; finish the
+cooking, take from the fire; beat a yolk of egg with a teaspoonful of
+cold water and mix it with the apples; serve warm. Proceed in the same
+way with _pears_.
+
+_Peaches baked._--Cut peaches in two, remove the stone, and with a
+paste-cutter cut some slices of bread, and place them in a buttered
+bakepan with half of a peach on each, the skin downward; dust well with
+sugar, put a piece of butter the size of a kidney-bean on each, place in
+a rather slow oven; dish when cooked, turn the juice over, if any; if
+none, a little syrup of pears, and serve warm.
+
+Do the same with _apricots_, _plums_, and slices of _pine-apples_. The
+slices of pine-apples may be soaked in _kirschwasser_ for twenty-four
+hours before using them.
+
+_Prunes, stewed._--Wash them in cold water if necessary. Soak them in
+tepid water for about two hours, and set the whole on the fire; boil
+gently till half done, when add sugar to taste, a gill of claret wine to
+half a pound of prunes, and serve either warm or cold when done. If the
+water boils away too much, add more.
+
+_Currants, Blackberries, or other Fruit, for Dessert._--Beat well the
+white of an egg with a little water; dip the fruit in, and roll it
+immediately in some fine-crushed sugar; place it on a dish, and leave it
+thus five or six hours, and serve.
+
+A more sightly and exquisite plate of dessert than a plate of currants
+dressed thus, cannot be had.
+
+Besides all our receipts, any kind of fruit may be served for dessert,
+according to the season; also any kind of cheese; also fruits preserved
+in liquor.
+
+_Berries with Milk or Cream._--Nearly every kind of berries, when clean,
+may be served with milk or cream, and sugar to taste.
+
+_With Liquor._--They may also be served with brandy, rum,
+_kirschwasser_, whiskey, etc., and sugar.
+
+_Marmalades, or Preserves of Fruits--Of Apricots or Peaches._--Boil two
+pounds of peaches for a minute, take off and drop them immediately in
+cold water. Drain and skin immediately, cut in two and remove the stone.
+Crack two-thirds of the stones and throw the kernels in boiling water;
+leave them in till the skin comes off easily; skin them well and cut
+them in small pieces, lengthwise. Lay the peaches in a pan, with about a
+pound and a half of sugar, set on the fire, boil about twenty minutes,
+stirring the while with a wooden spoon; a few minutes before taking from
+the fire, put also the kernels in the pan; then turn in pots or jars as
+soon as off the fire. Cover well when cold, and keep in a dry and cool
+(but not cold) closet.
+
+_Of Plums._--Proceed as for the above.
+
+_Of Pears and Quinces._--Quarter, peel, and core the fruit, put it in a
+pan, and proceed for the rest as directed for peaches, except that you
+use sweet almonds instead of kernels.
+
+_Of Blackberries, Cherries, Currants, Raspberries, and other like
+Berries._--Wash the fruit in cold water, drain, dry, and mash it through
+a sieve placed over a saucepan; when the juice and pulp are in the pan
+add the same weight of loaf-sugar as that of juice, which is easily
+ascertained by weighing the pan first; set on the fire, skim it
+carefully; it takes about half an hour to cook; then put in pots and let
+cool; cut a piece of white paper the size of the inside of the pot, dip
+it in brandy, put it over the fruit, cover the pots, and place them in a
+dry and cool closet.
+
+_Of Grapes._--Select well-ripened grapes and pick the berries. Put them
+in a thick towel, and press the juice out, which you put in a copper or
+brass saucepan, set on a good fire, and boil till about half reduced.
+Skim off the scum, and stir now and then while it is on the fire. Then
+add about half a pound of loaf-sugar to a pound of juice, boil again
+fifteen or twenty minutes, take off, put in pots or jars, cover or cork
+well when cold, and put away in a dark and cool closet.
+
+_Candied or Comfited Fruit._--The best state of the fruit to be candied
+is just when commencing to ripen or a little before. It must be picked
+in dry weather, and be sound; the least stain is enough to spoil it soon
+after it is preserved.
+
+_Peaches._--Make a cut on the side of the fruit and remove the stone
+without bruising it; then skin it carefully and drop it in a pan of cold
+water. When they are all in, set on the fire, boil gently till they
+float. There must be much more water than is necessary to cover them, in
+order to see easily when they come to the surface. Then take them off
+carefully, with a skimmer, and drop them in cold water and drain. When
+drained, put them in a pan, cover them with syrup of sugar after it is
+skimmed and clarified. (_See_ Syrup of Sugar.) The syrup must be boiling
+when turned over the fruit. Set on the fire, give one boil only, and
+turn the whole into a bowl, which you cover with paper, and leave thus
+twelve or fifteen hours. After that time, drain, put the syrup on the
+fire, the peaches in the bowl, and at the first boiling of the syrup,
+turn it over the fruit, cover the bowl with paper, and leave about as
+long, that is, twelve or fifteen hours.
+
+Repeat the same process three times more, in all five times. The last
+time the syrup must be at the first state as described for syrup of
+sugar. Inexperienced persons will do well to try at first with a few
+fruits, and go through the whole process, after which it will be
+comparatively easy.
+
+Every one is awkward in doing a thing for the first time, and does not
+do it well, however easy or simple it may be. That is the reason why
+societies of farmers make better preserves than other people; they
+teach one another; and besides, no one is allowed to touch the fruit
+before having seen it done several times.
+
+Candied fruit, as well as preserves, get spoiled by fermentation, if not
+cooked enough; by moisture, if kept in a damp place; or by heat, if kept
+in a warm place.
+
+When the last process has been gone through, leave the fruit in the bowl
+about twenty-four hours; then put it in jars, cover air-tight, and put
+away in a dry and cool closet. It may also be drained, dried on a riddle
+in a warm place, and kept in boxes. A wooden riddle or screen is better
+than a metal one. They may also be put in decanters, covered with brandy
+or other liquor, and corked well. When preserved in brandy, it is not
+necessary to remove the stone; they may be covered with half syrup and
+half brandy.
+
+_Plums._--Pick them just before commencing to ripen, and cut the stem
+half way. When clean, but neither stoned nor skinned, prick them around
+the stem with a fork, drop them in cold water, set on the fire, add a
+gill of vinegar to three quarts of water, and take from the fire as soon
+as they float. Drain, put them in a bowl, pour boiling syrup of sugar
+over them, and proceed as directed for peaches, that is, cover and pour
+the syrup on them five times in all. They are kept like peaches also,
+either in jars, dried, or in brandy.
+
+_Pears._--After being peeled and the stem cut off half way, they may be
+preserved whole or in quarters. In peeling them, they must be dropped in
+cold water with a little lemon-juice to keep them white. They are picked
+just before commencing to ripen. When ready, put cold water and the
+juice of a lemon to every two quarts in a deep pan, and drop the pears
+in, set on the fire and boil gently till well done; take off, drain and
+drop in cold water, which you change two or three times and without
+stopping; then drain again, place them in a large bowl, and then proceed
+as for peaches. They are kept like peaches also.
+
+_Apples._--Proceed as for pears, except that apples are cooked much
+quicker.
+
+_Pine-Apples._--Peel, slice, and drop the fruit in cold water; add a
+little sugar, set on the fire and boil gently till done, when drain and
+drop in cold water and drain again. Put them in a bowl, and proceed as
+for peaches for the rest, with the exception that they are kept in jars
+only, and not dried or put in brandy.
+
+_Chestnuts._--Skin the chestnuts and put them in cold water on the fire,
+and take off when tender; then remove the under skin or white envelope
+or pith. Place them in a bowl, and proceed as for peaches for the rest.
+
+_Oranges._--Drop oranges in boiling water and take off when the rind is
+tender, and when a darning-needle can be run through it easily. Drain
+and drop them in cold water. After two or three hours drain, cut in
+slices, and put them in a bowl; then proceed as for peaches, except that
+they are kept in jars only.
+
+_Quinces._--Peel, quarter, and core quinces just before they commence
+ripening, drop in boiling water; drain them when done, and drop them
+immediately in cold water. As soon as cold, take them off, drain and put
+them in a bowl. For the rest, proceed as for peaches, with the exception
+that they are only kept in jars, but neither dried nor put in brandy.
+
+To Preserve in Brandy.--Besides the dried fruits above described,
+several may be preserved in brandy, without being cooked and soaked in
+syrup of sugar.
+
+_Cherries._--Pick them when fully ripe, see that they are clean, and put
+them in decanters with cloves, pieces of cinnamon, and entirely covered
+with brandy; cover well, but do not cork, and leave thus two weeks, at
+the end of which, place a colander over a vessel and empty the decanters
+into it; pass the liquor through a jelly-bag, mix it with some syrup of
+sugar at the second degree, turn over the fruit which you cover with it,
+and cork the decanters well when perfectly cold. Keep in a dark, cool,
+and dry place.
+
+Do the same with strawberries and other like fruit.
+
+_Fruit Jellies--With Apples or Quinces._--Peel, core, and cut in small
+pieces two quarts of good apples or quinces, lay them in a stewpan with
+a clove well pounded, and the juice of half a lemon; cover with water,
+set on a moderate fire, and boil slowly till well cooked. Turn into a
+jelly-bag, or a thick towel under which you place a vessel to receive
+the juice, and when it is all out, put it in a stewpan with
+three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of juice; boil to a
+jelly.
+
+As soon as done put it in pots or jars, let cool, cut a piece of white
+paper the size of the inside of the pot, dip it in brandy, put it over
+the jelly, cover the pot well, and place in a dry, cool closet, but not
+too cold. What remains in the bag may be used to make a _compote_. Watch
+the process carefully, skimmer in hand, to skim off the scum, and stir
+now and then, lest it should burn.
+
+_With Apricots, Peaches, Plums, etc._--After having taken the stones
+out, cut them in four pieces, and proceed as for apple-jelly above in
+every other particular.
+
+_With Blackberries, Currants, Grapes, Raspberries, or other like
+Berries._--Put the well-ripened berries in a coarse towel and squeeze
+all the juice out of them, which you put into a stewpan with as many
+pounds of loaf-sugar as there are of juice, and finish as directed for
+apple-jelly. A little rum or essence of rose, or any other, according to
+taste, may be added just before taking from the fire.
+
+_Punch._--Put a saltspoonful of black tea in a crockery pot, with one
+clove, a little cinnamon, and the rind of a lemon cut in pieces; pour on
+the whole half a pint of boiling water; let it remain thus five minutes,
+and strain. Put a bottle of rum or brandy in a crockery vessel, with
+twelve ounces of loaf-sugar, set the rum or brandy on fire, and let burn
+till it stops. Then mix tea and rum together, and it is ready for use.
+It is drunk cold or warm, according to taste. When wanted warm, if made
+previously, set it on a moderate fire, in a tin or crockery kettle.
+
+It keeps very well if carefully bottled and corked when cold.
+
+Another way to make it is to mix the rum or brandy with the tea without
+burning it. It is warmed, used, and kept like the above. The quantity of
+water may be reduced or augmented, according to taste, and so also the
+sugar.
+
+_Another._--Grate the rind of a lemon and of two oranges on a piece of
+sugar, the yellow part only, and put it in a bowl with cold water to
+dissolve it; then add two gills of pine-apple syrup, essence of vanilla,
+a pint of claret wine, a pint of Catawba, Sauterne, or Rhine wine, a
+pint of Champagne, and a gill of brandy; sweeten to taste; strain, put
+on ice for some time, and serve.
+
+_Another._--Put a pound of sugar in a bowl with a gill of water to
+dissolve it; then add the juice of three oranges, a little rind grated,
+a bottle of Champagne and one of Catawba or Sauterne wine; strain, place
+on ice for some time, and serve cold.
+
+_Roman Punch._--Make iced lemon with one quart of juice, same of syrup
+as directed, then mix with it the juice of four oranges, some lemon and
+orange rind grated, and about three gills of rum (or according to
+taste); also, if liked, the preparation used for iced fruit. Then put
+the mixture in the freezer, stir while freezing, and serve. It must not
+be frozen hard, as it is better when served rather liquid and frothy. It
+may be made with any other liquor, if preferred.
+
+Punch is served either after the _entrees_ or after the _releves_ of
+fish, according to taste.
+
+
+
+
+  PASTRY.
+
+
+Of all the branches of the science and art of cooking, pastry, if not
+the most difficult, requires the greatest care. An inferior piece of
+meat makes an inferior dish, but still it can be eaten without danger:
+but inferior pastry can hardly be eaten; or, if eaten, it is
+indigestible. We will recommend our readers to be very careful about
+proportions; it would not make a great difference for some kinds, but
+for others, putting too much or too little of one or more things would
+certainly result in failure. It is very important to have good
+materials. New flour is very inferior for pastry; it must have been
+ground for at least three months. Always keep it in bags, and in a dry
+and well-ventilated place. Sift before using it. Use fresh eggs, good
+butter, and good pulverized sugar.
+
+The most important of all is the oven, for, supposing that you have used
+good materials, have mixed them well, if not properly baked, every thing
+is lost, materials and labor. Supposing that you have a good oven, there
+is still a difficulty--and if the last, not the least--the degree of
+heat. Some require a quick oven, as puff-paste, _choux_, etc.; others a
+warm one, and others a slow oven, as _meringues_ biscuits, etc. By
+putting the hand in the oven you can tell if it is properly heated, but
+it requires experience, and even practitioners are often mistaken;
+therefore, the easiest way is to have a thermometer in the oven. It may
+be placed in the oven of every stove or range; it is only necessary to
+bore a hole on the top of the range or stove, reaching the oven, and
+have a thermometer with the bulb inclosed in a brass sheath, perforated,
+long enough to reach the oven, and of the size of the hole bored--the
+glass tube being above the top of the range.
+
+_Pastes._--There are several kinds of paste. Puff-paste is the most
+important; it can be made very rich, rich, and less so; and several
+hundred different cakes can be made with it. Small cakes are called
+_petits fours_.
+
+The next in importance is the _pate-a-choux_; then the paste for
+meat-pies, sometimes called _pate brisee_.
+
+Puff-paste requires care, but is easily made; _pate-a-choux_ must be
+well worked.
+
+_Puff-paste._--To make good puff-paste, good flour and butter, free from
+salt or sour milk, are indispensable. It must be made in a cool place.
+Take half a pound of good butter and knead it well in a bowl of cold
+water; if fresh and not salt, the kneading will take the sour milk out
+of it; if salty, it will remove the salt, then put it in another bowl of
+cold water and leave it till it is perfectly firm, and then use. When
+the butter is ready, put half a pound of flour on the paste-board or
+marble, make a hole in it, in which you put a pinch of salt, and cold
+water enough to make a rather stiff dough. It requires about half a pint
+of water, knead well, make a kind of ball with the dough, and put it on
+a corner of your marble or paste-board. Take the butter from the water
+and knead it on the board, to press all the water out of it. Give it the
+shape of a large sausage; dredge the board slightly with flour, roll the
+butter over only once, as it must take very little of it, dredge both
+ends of the piece of butter with flour also, then by putting one end on
+the board and pressing on the other end with your hands, you will
+flatten it of a rather round shape, and till of about half an inch in
+thickness. Put it thus on the corner of the board also. Immediately
+after having prepared the butter, take the dough and roll it down, of a
+round form also, and till large enough to envelop the butter in it
+easily. Remember that during the whole operation of folding and rolling
+the paste down, you must dust the marble or paste-board with flour, very
+slightly and often; do the same on the top of the paste. It is done in
+order to prevent the paste from adhering to the board or to the
+rolling-pin. It must be dusted slightly, so that the paste cannot absorb
+much of it, as it would make it tough. Have a slab of marble or slate;
+it is much easier than wood, and cooler.
+
+When the dough is spread, place the butter right on the middle of it.
+Turn one side of the dough over the butter, covering it a little more
+than half way; do the game with the opposite side, the dough lapping
+over that of the first side turned; do the same with the side toward
+you, and also with the side opposite. Dough stretching easily when
+pulled, and contracting easily when let loose after having pulled it,
+you have now still four corners of the dough to bring over the butter
+and in the same way as above, and by doing which, you give to the whole
+a somewhat round form, and also have the butter perfectly enveloped in
+the dough. Place the rolling-pin on the middle of the paste,
+horizontally, and press gently on it so as to make a furrow; do the same
+from place to place, on the whole surface, making furrows about an inch
+apart. Repeat the process again, this time placing the rolling-pin right
+on the top of each elevated line; and again, repeat it a third time,
+also placing the pin on each elevated line. Now do exactly the same
+contrariwise. Then, roll the paste down, gently, evenly, to a thickness
+of about one fourth of an inch, and of a rectangular shape. Fold it in
+three by turning over one-third of its length toward the other end, and
+thus covering another third of it; fold or turn over the remaining
+third, so as to cover the first third turned over. Roll it down again of
+about the same thickness as above, but without making furrows in it;
+give it also the same rectangular shape, taking care to make the length
+of what was the width, _i. e._ extending it the longer way in an
+opposite direction to that of the first time, so that the ends will be
+what the sides were. Fold in three as before, put it on a plate and set
+in a refrigerator for from ten to twenty minutes. Take hold of it again,
+roll down as above, fold in the same way also, and put away for ten
+minutes. You roll down and fold from four to six times, not counting the
+time you envelop the butter in the dough. In cold weather, and when the
+butter is firm, fold and roll only four times; but in rather warm
+weather, fold and roll six times. If it is too warm, it is of no use to
+try with butter.
+
+Puff-paste may be made without stopping; that is, without putting it
+away in a cool place for some time; but it is better to let it rest; it
+is lighter and rises better. When finished, it can be used immediately;
+but it is better also to put it in a plate or dish, cover it with a
+towel, and put it in a refrigerator for from twelve to twenty-four
+hours. Although it must be kept in a cool place, do not put it near
+enough to the ice to freeze. It may be kept thus for two or three days.
+
+_Puff-paste with Beef-Suet_.--Take half a pound of fresh beef suet, the
+nearest the kidney the best; break it in small pieces with the hands,
+at the same time removing the thin skin and fibres as much as possible;
+put it in a bowl of cold water and knead well till it is rather soft;
+take it off, mash and bruise it well on the paste-board with a
+rolling-pin; knead it again like butter; roll it in flour like butter
+also, and proceed as above for the rest, and with the same proportion,
+weight for weight of flour and beef-suet, but it requires more salt.
+Beef-suet being more firm than butter, puff-paste can be made with it
+during summer, but it must be eaten immediately, being very inferior
+after a while.
+
+The proportion of butter and flour may be varied. Weight for weight
+makes the real puff-paste, and very rich. If less butter is used it will
+not rise as much, but is excellent nevertheless, and is more handy to
+make different cakes, such as short-cakes with fruit. Therefore
+puff-paste may be made with the following proportions: to one pound of
+flour, use fourteen, twelve, ten, eight, or even four ounces of butter
+or suet. Another way is to mix one or two eggs in the flour, water, and
+salt before rolling it down. When eggs are used, it requires less water.
+Envelop the butter in it in the same way.
+
+_Allumettes._--Cut strips of puff-paste of any length, about three
+inches wide and about one-fifth of an inch in thickness; mix well
+together, and for about three or four minutes, one ounce of sugar and
+about half the white of an egg; spread this mixture over the strips of
+paste, so as to have a rather thin coat of it; then cut the paste
+across, so as to make small strips about one inch broad and three inches
+long. Bake in an oven at about 400 deg. Fahr.
+
+_Feuillettes._--Roll puff-paste down to a thickness of from one-eighth
+to one-half of an inch in thickness; cut it in pieces of any size and
+shape, according to fancy with a knife or with a paste-cutter; glaze the
+top only with egg, and bake in an oven at about 450 deg. Fahr.
+
+_Feuillettes a la Conde._--Roll and cut the paste exactly as for the
+above; then, instead of baking it, fry it in hot fat (_see_ Frying);
+turn into a colander when fried, dust with sugar, and serve as warm as
+possible.
+
+_Pommees._--Line the bottom of a bakepan with puff-paste, about
+one-eighth of an inch in thickness; spread stewed apples over it of a
+thickness of one-quarter of an inch; cover these with another thickness
+of puff-paste; prick the cover all over with the point of a knife, and
+bake in an oven at about 400 deg. Fahr. When baked, cut it in square
+pieces, dust with sugar, and serve hot or cold, according to taste.
+
+_Porte-manteaux._--Cut strips of puff-paste of any length, about three
+inches broad, and one-eighth of an inch in thickness; spread on the
+middle of the strips, and lengthwise, some frangipane, or stewed apples,
+or any kind of sweetmeats, of the size of the finger. Then turn one side
+of the paste over the frangipane or sweetmeats, glaze the border with
+egg (we mean by "the border," about half an inch in width, measuring
+from the edge); then turn the other side over it so that the glazing
+will cause the two pastes to stick together. Thus it will be only a
+little over an inch broad and about half an inch thick. Cut the strips
+across in small pieces about two inches long, glaze the top with egg,
+and then bake in an oven at 400 deg. Fahr.
+
+_Tartelettes._--Roll some puff-paste down to a thickness of about
+one-sixteenth of an inch; cut it, with a paste-cutter, of the size of
+small tin moulds, and place the pieces in the moulds; put about a
+teaspoonful of frangipane in each; place two narrow strips of paste
+across each, which strips you cut with a truckle; bake in an oven at
+about 380 deg. Fahr.
+
+_Tartelettes (sweet)._--Proceed as for the above in every particular,
+except that you use any kind of sweetmeats or jelly instead of
+frangipane.
+
+_Cake Pithiviers._--Roll some puff-paste down to a thickness of about
+one-eighth of an inch; cut it round and place on a baking-pan; if the
+pan be square or rectangular, cut a round piece that will go in easily;
+cut a strip of paste about one inch broad, glaze with egg the border of
+the paste in the pan, place the strip all around, and then glaze it
+also. Fill the middle with the following mixture: pound four ounces of
+sweet almonds and mix them well with half a pound of sugar, two ounces
+of butter, four yolks of eggs, essence to flavor, and four macaroons
+chopped. Cut another piece of puff-paste round, and of the same size as
+the other; dust it slightly with flour, fold it gently in four; the
+piece then will have two straight sides and a circular one. With a sharp
+knife make three cuts in each of the two straight sides through the four
+thicknesses of the paste, and about half an inch in length. Make another
+cut through the paste also, representing half of the figure 8, right in
+the middle of the piece of paste, commencing half an inch from the
+border of the circular side and in the middle of it, and going toward
+the point, so that when the paste is open there are sixteen cuts in it.
+Place the paste still folded on the paste and mixture in the pan, the
+circular side on the border and the point right in the middle; open it
+gently, and the whole will be covered. Glaze with egg, and put in an
+oven at from 430 to 460 deg. Fahr. The same cake may be filled with a
+frangipane, and prepared as the above for the rest.
+
+_Rissoles (also called Fourres)._--Cut round pieces of puff-paste about
+three inches in diameter; wet the edge with water, put a teaspoonful of
+compote or any kind of sweetmeat on one side of it, then fold the paste
+in two, so as to cover the sweetmeat; pinch the paste around to cause it
+to adhere, in order to envelop the sweetmeat; you have then a cake of a
+semicircular shape. Glaze with egg, bake in a quick oven, dust with
+sugar, and serve.
+
+_Galette du Gymnase._--Make puff-paste with half a pound of butter to a
+pound of flour, and when done as directed, knead it. Then roll it down
+to the thickness of about one-fourth of an inch, cut it in strips of any
+length and about an inch and a half wide, glaze with egg, bake in a
+quick oven, about 420 deg. Fahr. The two ends of the strips may be
+brought together and joined, forming a crown. The same _galette_ is made
+with trimmings of puff-paste, kneaded and rolled as above.
+
+_Fanchonnettes._--These are made with the same puff-paste as the
+_galette_ above; then cut it in round pieces, place them on small
+moulds, fill them with any kind of sweetmeats and frangipane, with
+almonds, half of each; bake, dust with sugar, and serve. Instead of
+frangipane, spread raisins over the sweetmeats, or almonds, peanuts,
+hazel-nuts, etc., all cut in small strips, lengthwise; you make then an
+infinite number of different small cakes.
+
+_Fans._--Make some puff-paste with equal weight of flour and butter,
+fold and roll it down six times, and put in a cold place. Leave it of a
+thickness of about one-quarter of an inch; cut it with a sharp knife in
+pieces of a rectangular shape, about four inches long and two broad,
+which cut again in two, across and from one corner to the other, so that
+you make two pieces of a right-angled triangle shape. Place the pieces
+on their sides in a bake-pan, on their sides, far apart, and bake in a
+very quick oven. When done, dust with sugar, and serve.
+
+_Vol-au-vent_ and _bouchees_ for the day's use are baked early in the
+morning. They are warmed in a slow oven just before filling them.
+
+_Vol-au-vent._--A _vol-au-vent_ is made with puff-paste and filled with
+oysters, meat, etc., when baked; that is, when the cake is baked and
+emptied, it is warmed in the oven, filled, and served warm. It is made
+of an oval or round shape. When made small it is generally of a round
+shape, but when made rather large it is generally of an oval shape. When
+the puff-paste is ready to be used, roll down to any thickness from
+one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch; cut it with a sharp-pointed
+knife of the size and shape you wish, then with the same knife cut what
+is called the cover, _i. e._, make a cut all around, about half an inch
+from the edge or border, and about one-third through the paste, leaving
+two-thirds of the thickness of the paste uncut. This operation is called
+marking out the cover. Glaze the top of the paste with egg, and bake it
+in a very quick oven, about 500 deg. Fahr. In glazing, be careful not to
+glaze the sides or allow any egg to run on the sides; it would prevent
+the paste from rising. Some drawings may be made on the cover with the
+back of a knife, according to fancy: leaves, for instance, are very
+easily imitated; it is only necessary to run the knife on the paste,
+without cutting it. When in the oven, do not look at it for at least
+seven or eight minutes, for in opening the door of the oven it might
+cause the paste to fall and even after that time open and shut the door
+quickly; take off when properly baked. When the oven is hot enough it
+takes about twelve minutes, and even less time when the _vol-au-vent_ is
+small. Take from the oven when baked, and immediately run the point of
+the knife all around and in the same place as you did before being
+baked, which place is well marked. Thus you cut off the cover and remove
+it, then remove also all the unbaked paste that is inside of the
+_vol-au-vent_, so that you have left what may be called a shell. Keep it
+then till the oysters or meat are ready to put in it. About five minutes
+before the filling is ready, put the shell or baked paste in a slow oven
+to warm it, turn the filling into it, enough to fill it entirely; place
+the cover on the top, and serve warm. The unbaked paste removed from the
+inside is baked, and makes an excellent cake, though not a sightly one.
+
+_Another._--Cut a piece of puff-paste the same as for the above one,
+that is, either round or oval, and of the size you wish. Instead of
+marking a cover, glaze the border with egg. It is understood here by
+"the border," a space about three-quarters of an inch broad and all
+around it, the space being measured from the edge toward the centre.
+Then cut a strip of puff-paste about three-quarters of an inch broad,
+long enough to cover the place or space glazed, which strip you put all
+around the first paste, and you then have a border. The place between
+the two pastes being glazed, they will adhere in baking. Then also glaze
+the upper side of the border carefully with egg. With a knife or fork,
+prick the paste, inside of the border only, in ten, fifteen, or twenty
+places, according to the size of the _vol-au-vent_, and in order to
+prevent that part from rising as much as it would if not pricked. Bake
+in the same oven as the above--a very quick one.
+
+A _vol-au-vent_ thus made is deeper than the first one, having two
+thicknesses of paste. Generally there is little or no paste (unbaked) to
+remove; having pricked the centre, it prevents it from rising and bakes
+it evenly, but if there is any, remove it. A cover may be made by
+cutting a piece of puff-paste of the size of the _vol-au-vent_ and
+baking it separately. It may be decorated with the back of the knife as
+the above one, and made convex on the top by baking it on a piece of
+tin. It is warmed, filled, and served the same as the above.
+
+A _vol-au-vent_ is filled with the following:
+
+_With Oysters._--The quantity is according to the size of the
+_vol-au-vent_. Blanch one quart of oysters. Put two ounces of butter in
+a saucepan, set it on the fire, and when melted add a tablespoonful of
+flour; stir, and when turning rather yellow add also about a pint of
+milk, and the liquor from the oysters; stir, and as soon as it turns
+rather thick put the oysters in, taking care to have them free from
+pieces of the shell. Give one boil, add salt to taste, two yolks of
+eggs, stir again, turn into the warm paste, place the cover on, and
+serve warm.
+
+_With Lobster._--Prepare the lobster as for _bouchees_, fill the shell
+with it, and serve warm.
+
+_With Cod-fish._--Prepare fresh cod-fish _a la Bechamel_, fill the
+_vol-au-vent_ or shell with it, and serve warm.
+
+_With Turbot._--Proceed as for cod-fish in every particular.
+
+_With Eels._--Fill the _vol-au-vent_ with eels, oyster sauce, or in
+_poulette_, and serve warm.
+
+_With Chicken._--Fill with a chicken or part of a chicken in _fricassee_
+or _saute_.
+
+_With Livers and Combs of Chicken._--Prepare combs and livers of chicken
+in _fricassee_, the same as a chicken, fill the _vol-au-vent_ with them.
+Serve hot.
+
+_With Sweetbreads._--Cook the sweetbreads as directed, and fill the
+_vol-au-vent_ with them. Serve warm.
+
+_With Veal._--Fill the _vol-au-vent_ with veal in _blanquette_, in
+_ragout_, or in _bourgeoise_, and serve. It is generally filled with
+what has been left the day previous, as it requires very little for a
+_vol-au-vent_.
+
+_With Brains._--It may be filled with brains of calf, pig, sheep, or
+veal; prepared in _poulette_, or stewed.
+
+_With Rabbit._--Fill it with part of a rabbit _saute_.
+
+It may also be filled with any other _meat_ or _fish_, according to
+taste, and being cooked previously.
+
+_With Fruits._--Fill the _vol-au-vent_ with any kind of stewed fruit,
+jelly, sweetmeats, etc. It may be only filled, or the fruit may be
+dressed in pyramid inside of it.
+
+_Bouchees._--_Bouchees_, or _petites bouchees_, as they are sometimes
+called, are small, round _vol-au-vent_, served warm. They are also
+called _bouchees de dames_ and _petites bouchees_. Roll puff-paste down
+to a thickness of about one-quarter of an inch, cut it with a
+paste-cutter of any size, mark the cover, and bake in an oven at about
+450 deg. Fahr. A good size is about three inches in diameter. When cut, take
+another paste-cutter about two inches in diameter, place it on the piece
+of paste; press on it just enough to mark the place where it was, but
+not enough to cut the paste, remove it and then the cover is marked;
+that is, you have a circle on the top of the paste, half an inch from
+the edge all around. Glaze with egg and bake. Make one for each person.
+Immediately on taking them from the oven, cut off the cover with a
+sharp-pointed knife. That is easily done; it is only necessary to follow
+the mark made with the paste-cutter, which is just as visible as before
+baking. Remove the cover and then carefully take out some unbaked paste
+inside of the _bouchee_, fill with lobster prepared as directed below,
+put the cover on, and serve as warm as possible.
+
+_The Filling._--Cut some flesh of boiled lobster in dice. Put two ounces
+of butter in a saucepan and set it on the fire; when melted, add a
+tablespoonful of flour, stir for about one minute, and add also broth
+(the quantity must be according to the number of _bouchees_, but we will
+give here the quantity necessary for five or six _bouchees_), about
+three gills, also salt, pepper, then the cut lobster; stir now and then
+for five or six minutes, and use.
+
+_Of Oysters._--Prepare, fill and serve exactly as the above, except that
+you fill with oysters prepared as for _vol-au-vent_, instead of filling
+with lobster.
+
+_Of Cod-fish._--Fill the _bouchees_ with cod-fish, prepared _a la
+Bechamel_, and serve warm.
+
+_Of Eels._--Have some eels prepared either in _poulette_ or
+oyster-sauce, fill the _bouchees_, and serve warm.
+
+_Of Turbot._--It is filled with turbot _a la creme_ or _a la Bechamel_.
+
+It may also be filled with any kind of fish, prepared _a la Bechamel_,
+_a la creme_, in white sauce, oyster-sauce, etc.
+
+_Of Truffles._--Cut the white flesh of a chicken in dice, prepare it as
+a chicken _saute_, using truffles but no mushrooms, fill the _bouchees_
+with it and serve warm.
+
+_Of Puree of Chicken, or Bouchees de Dames._--It is filled with some
+_puree_ of chicken, and served as warm as possible.
+
+Do the same with a _puree_ of game.
+
+_Of Bobolink._--Prepare and clean twelve bobolinks as directed for
+birds, put a teaspoonful of truffles, cut in small dice, in each bird,
+for stuffing; sew the incision, and bake or roast the birds. Put each
+bird in a _bouchee_, and serve warm. A more delicate dish cannot be
+made.
+
+The same may be done with any kind of _small bird_.
+
+_Bouchees_ are generally served on a napkin and on a dish, in pyramid.
+
+_Pate a choux._--Weigh four ounces of flour, to which add half a
+teaspoonful of sugar. Put two gills of cold water in a tin saucepan with
+two ounces of butter, and set it on the fire, stir a little with a
+wooden spoon to melt the butter before the water boils. At the first
+boiling of the water, throw into it the four ounces of flour and stir
+very fast with the spoon, holding the pan fast with the left hand. As
+soon as the whole is thoroughly mixed, take from the fire, but continue
+stirring for about fifteen or twenty seconds. It takes hardly half a
+minute from the time the flour is dropped in the pan to that when taken
+from the fire. The quicker it is done, the better. When properly done,
+nothing at all sticks to the pan, and by touching it with the finger it
+feels as soft as velvet, and does not adhere to it at all. Let it stand
+two or three minutes, then mix well with it, by means of a spoon, one
+egg; then another, and so on; in all four. It takes some time and work
+to mix the eggs, especially to mix the first one, the paste being rather
+stiff. They are added one at a time, in order to mix them better. If the
+eggs are small, add half of one or one more. To use only half a one, it
+is necessary to beat it first. Let the paste stand half an hour, stir
+again a little, and use. If it is left standing for some time and is
+found rather dry, add a little egg, which mix, and then use.
+
+_Beignets Souffles_--(_also called Pets de Nonne_).--Make some _pate a
+choux_; take a small tablespoonful of it, holding the spoon with the
+left hand, and with the forefinger of the right cause the paste to fall
+in hot fat on the fire (_see_ Frying), turn over and over again till
+fried, then turn into a colander, dust with sugar, and serve hot. In
+frying, the paste will swell four or five times its size, and by
+dropping it carefully and as nearly of a round shape as possible, the
+cakes will be nearly round when done.
+
+_Choux or Cream Cakes._--Make some _pate a choux_: have a buttered
+bakepan, and drop the paste upon it in the same way as you drop the
+_beignets_ above; glaze with egg, and bake in an oven at about 380 deg.
+Fahr. When baked and cold, make a cut on one side, about two-thirds
+through, the cut to be horizontal, a little above the middle, then, by
+raising the top a little, fill the cake, which is hollow, with one of
+the following creams: _whipped_, _Chantilly_, _cuite_, _frangipane_, or
+_legere_; dust with sugar, and serve.
+
+_The same, with Almonds._--Blanch sweet almonds and cut them in small
+strips, lengthwise; then, when the choux are in the bakepan and glazed
+with egg, spread the almonds all over, bake, fill, and serve as the
+above.
+
+_Saint Honore._--Make some _pate a choux_. Then put four tablespoonfuls
+of flour on the paste-board with two of sugar, one egg, one ounce of
+butter, salt, and a pinch of cinnamon; mix and knead the whole well;
+roll the paste down to a thickness of about one quarter of an inch and
+place it in a bakepan. Put a dessert-plate upside down on the paste, and
+cut it all around the plate with a knife; remove what is cut off and
+also the plate. Spread some _pate a choux_, about a teaspoonful, all
+over the paste left in the bakepan, about one-sixteenth of an inch in
+thickness; put some of it also in the pastry-bag, and by squeezing it
+out, make a border with it about the size of the finger; prick the
+middle of the paste in about a dozen places with a fork and inside of
+the border; glaze the border with egg, and then bake in an oven at about
+400 deg. Fahr. While the above is baking, make very small _choux_ (about the
+size of a macaroon), and bake them also. When both are baked, and while
+they are cooking, make some _creme legere_, fill the inside of the cake
+with it, so as to imitate a sugar-loaf or mound, about four inches in
+height, smooth it or scallop it with a knife. Put two tablespoonfuls of
+sugar and two of water in a saucepan, set it on the fire, toss the pan
+occasionally to boil evenly, and till it becomes like syrup. Do not stir
+too much, else it will turn white and somewhat like molasses-candy. It
+is reduced enough when, by dipping (not stirring) a little stick in it
+and dipping it again immediately in cold water, the syrup-like liquor
+that has adhered to it breaks easily and is very transparent. It must be
+as transparent as glass. As soon as reduced thus, take from the fire and
+use. Dip the top of each small _chou_ in it, holding the _chou_ with a
+small knife stuck in it; place a piece of candy (generally, sugar-plums
+of various colors are used) on the top of each _chou_; place them apart
+and around the _creme legere_, and upon the border of the cake, with one
+a little larger than the others on the top of it; serve cold. This cake
+is as good as it is sightly.
+
+_Eclairs._--_Eclairs_ are also called _petits pains_ or _profiterolles
+au chocolat_.
+
+_Eclairs au Chocolat._--Make some _pate a choux_ as directed above, and
+put it in the pastry-bag with tube No. 1 at the end of it. Force it out
+of the bag into a baking-pan greased with butter. By closing and holding
+up the larger end of the bag and by pressing it downward, it will come
+out of the tube in a rope-like shape and of the size of the tube. Draw
+the bag toward you while pressing, and stop when you have spread a
+length of about four inches. Repeat this operation till the baking-pan
+is full or till the paste is all out. Leave a space of about two inches
+between each cake, as they swell in baking. Bake in an oven at about 370
+degrees. When baked and cold, slit one side about half through, open
+gently and fill each cake with the following cream, and then close it.
+Cream: put in a block-tin saucepan three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two
+of flour, four yolks of eggs, and mix well with a wooden spoon. Add a
+pint of milk, little by little, and mixing the while; set on the fire,
+stir continually till it becomes rather thick, and take off. Have one
+ounce of chocolate melted on a slow fire in half a gill of milk, and mix
+it with the rest, and use. Put one ounce of chocolate in a tin saucepan
+with a teaspoonful of water, and set on a slow fire; when melted, mix
+with it two tablespoonfuls of sugar, stir for a while; that is, till it
+is just thick enough to spread it over the cakes, and not liquid enough
+to run down the sides. A thickness of about one-sixteenth of an inch is
+sufficient. The cakes may either be dipped in the chocolate or the
+chocolate may be spread over them with a knife. Serve cold.
+
+_Eclairs au Cafe._--It is made exactly like the above, except that you
+mix with the cream three tablespoonfuls of strong coffee, instead of
+chocolate and milk.
+
+_Eclairs au The._--It is made like the preceding one, with the exception
+that strong tea is used instead of strong coffee.
+
+_Eclairs a la Vanille._--Proceed as for the above, but mix a teaspoonful
+of essence of vanilla in the cream instead of tea.
+
+_Eclairs a l'Essence._--The meaning of _eclairs a l'essence_ is, that a
+few drops of any kind of essence are mixed with the cream instead of
+chocolate and milk, and prepared and served like the others.
+
+_Eclairs aux Fraises._--Instead of filling the cakes with cream, fill
+them with strawberry-jelly, and for the rest proceed as for _eclairs au
+chocolat_.
+
+_Eclairs aux Groseilles._--Made like the above, but filled with
+currant-jelly.
+
+Do the same with _apple_, _blackberry_, _cherry_, _grape_, _peach_,
+_pear_, _plum_, _quince_, _raspberry jelly_, etc.
+
+_Petits Pains a la Reine._--_Eclairs_ are so called when filled with
+marmalade of peaches in which sweet almonds chopped fine have been mixed
+previously.
+
+_Petits Pains a la Rose._--Like the above, and by adding a few drops of
+essence of roses to the marmalade.
+
+_Petits Pains a l'Essence._--Like the above, with any kind of essence:
+_pink_, _violet_, _geranium_, etc.
+
+_Biscuits in Boxes._--Make some square boxes with sheets of white paper;
+fill them about two-thirds full with the same mixture as for lady's
+fingers, dust with sugar, and bake in a slow oven; serve cold.
+
+_With Almonds._--Mix well together with a wooden spoon four yolks of
+eggs with four ounces of sugar (pulverized), add three ounces of flour
+and mix well again. Beat the four whites to a stiff froth, and then have
+somebody to turn the mixture into them while you finish beating, and
+then mix the whole gently but well. It must not be stirred too much.
+Have two ounces of bitter almonds well pounded, with a teaspoonful of
+sugar, and mix them with the rest. Butter small moulds, turn the mixture
+into them, filling about two-thirds full, glaze with egg, dust with
+sugar, and bake in an oven at about 300 degrees Fahr.; serve cold.
+
+_With Chocolate._--Make some biscuits like the above, omitting the
+almonds, and flavoring them with a few drops of essence of vanilla. When
+cold, glaze them with chocolate, the same as described for _eclairs_,
+and serve.
+
+_With Essence._--Make biscuits with almonds or without, as the above
+ones, and flavor them with any kind of essence, or with orange and lemon
+rind grated.
+
+_Glazed._--When the biscuits are baked, glaze them with icing, and
+serve cold. These are sometimes called _biscuits a la royale_.
+
+_Of Rheims._--Mix well in a bowl six yolks of eggs with six ounces of
+sugar, with a wooden spoon. Add and mix with the above five ounces of
+flour and lemon-rind grated; beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth,
+and mix them also with the rest. Butter small moulds, turn the mixture
+into them, and bake in a slow oven, about 300 degrees Fahr. These are
+often made of the shape of lady's fingers. They are excellent eaten with
+wine.
+
+_With Filberts._--Put ten or twelve ounces of filberts or peanuts in a
+mortar with a few drops of orange-flower water and about half the white
+of an egg; when reduced to a paste, mix well with it four ounces of
+sifted flour, eight ounces of fine, white sugar, the yolks of two eggs
+well beaten, and the whites of four eggs whisked to a froth; when the
+whole is properly mixed, put it into a well-buttered mould, which place
+in a moderately-heated oven; watch it carefully, take out when cooked,
+which is easily known by the color it assumes.
+
+Biscuits with hazel-nuts, peach, or other kernels, may be made in the
+same way; that is, using them instead of filberts.
+
+_Lady's Fingers._--Mix well together with a wooden spoon four yolks of
+eggs and four ounces of pulverized sugar, then add three ounces of flour
+and mix well again. Beat four whites of eggs to a stiff froth; have
+somebody to turn two tablespoonfuls of the mixture into the whites as
+soon as beaten enough, and which you mix with the egg-beater, then turn
+the rest or the mixture in, mixing gently with the wooden spoon. This
+must be done rather quickly, to prevent the whole from turning liquid.
+Put the mixture in the pastry-bag with tin tube No. 1 at the end of it,
+squeeze it out in sticks about four inches long into a baking-pan
+slightly buttered and dusted with flour, or on a piece of paper placed
+in the bottom of the pan; then dust them with sugar, and bake in a
+rather slow oven. They must not change in the oven, that is, they must
+not spread or swell, showing that the oven is too hot or too slow, or
+that the mixture has not been properly prepared. They must be like small
+sticks, round on the upper side and flat underneath. They are sometimes
+called _biscuits a la cuiller_. They are used to make a _Charlotte
+Russe_, or eaten with wine.
+
+Cakes.--_Almond._--Blanch, skin, and pound well one ounce of sweet
+almonds and the same of bitter ones, which you mix with eight ounces of
+pulverized sugar, six of flour, two eggs, a tablespoonful of brandy or
+rum, and a pinch of sugar. When thoroughly mixed, add five yolks of
+eggs, mix and stir for five minutes, then add also and mix half a pound
+of melted butter. Turn the mixture in small moulds, well buttered, and
+bake in a rather slow oven. Some almonds cut in small pieces may be
+spread over just before baking; or, when baked, some icing may be spread
+over. Serve cold. This is also called _Nantais cake_. Instead of
+almonds, use filberts, hazel-nuts, currants, peanuts, or raisins.
+
+_Fourre._--This is made with puff-paste and cream, or puff-paste and
+different mixtures placed inside of it, such as _Pithiviers cake_ and
+fruit-pies.
+
+_Anchovy._--Knead four ounces of flour with two ounces of butter, a
+little salt, and a little water. Clean four anchovies and put them in
+vinegar for five minutes; then cut them in small pieces, put them in a
+bowl, and cover them with sweet-oil; leave them thus ten minutes. Roll
+the paste thin, then place a little more than half of it on a tart-dish,
+raising it all around with the thumb and forefinger; cover the paste
+with the anchovies, and these with the remainder of the paste, after
+having cut it in square pieces; spread some of the oil in which were the
+anchovies on it, bake in a warm oven, baste now and then with a little
+of the oil, and serve warm.
+
+_Apple._--Stew eight or ten apples and mash them through a sieve. Put
+them in a saucepan with about two ounces of butter and eight of sugar,
+set on the fire for five minutes, take off, let cool, and then mix with
+it five or six eggs, one after another. Turn the mixture into a buttered
+mould, which you place in a pan of boiling water, then boil slowly about
+half an hour, turn over a dish, and serve warm or cold.
+
+_Hard._--Put half a pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in
+the middle; put into it three ounces of pulverized sugar, three ounces
+of butter, two eggs, a pinch of cinnamon, a few drops of essence, and
+knead the whole well, dust the board with flour, roll the paste down to
+a thickness of about one-fourth of an inch, cut it in pieces with a
+paste-cutter, of any shape; beat one egg with a teaspoonful of sugar and
+glaze the pieces with it; with a piece of wood draw leaves or flowers on
+each, and bake in an oven at about 360 degrees Fahr. They are eaten cold
+at tea.
+
+_Heavy or Gateau de Plomb._--Proceed as above with one pound of flour, a
+pinch of salt, one ounce of sugar, four yolks of eggs, one pound of
+butter, half a pint of cream; when rolled down as above, fold in two or
+four, and roll down again; repeat the process four times. Then place it
+in a bakepan and put in a hot oven. Serve cold at tea.
+
+_Milanais._--Put one pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole
+in the middle, in which you put half a pound of butter, same of sugar,
+two eggs, a pinch of salt, and a quarter of a gill of rum. Mix and knead
+to a rather stiff dough with cold water. Spread it and roll it down to a
+thickness of about one-eighth of an inch. Glaze it with egg, dust with
+sugar and bake in a rather quick oven. When cold, cut it in two, spread
+some _compote_ of peaches or of apricots on one half, put the other half
+over it, cut in pieces according to fancy, and serve.
+
+_Rum Cakes._--These are made with sponge cake cut with a paste-cutter,
+some sweetmeats or jelly is placed on the middle, then it is dusted with
+pulverized sugar, watered with rum, and then placed in the oven for
+about two minutes. These cakes have several names, according to the kind
+of sweetmeat used.
+
+_Savarin._--Put one pound of flour on the paste-board and make a hole in
+the middle; put into it four ounces of sugar, and make a hole again;
+then put in the middle four eggs, twelve ounces of butter, one and a
+half gills of milk; mix and knead the whole well; then mix again in the
+whole four ounces of leaven prepared as directed; butter a mould, dust
+it with sweet almonds chopped; put the mixture in it; put in a warm
+place (about 78 degrees Fahr.) to rise, and bake in an oven at 430
+degrees Fahr. It will take about two and a half hours to rise. The mould
+must not be filled, else it will run over in rising.
+
+_Sauce for Savarin._--Put four ounces of sugar and half a pint of cold
+water in a block-tin saucepan, set it on the fire and boil till reduced
+about one-third; then add from one-half to one gill of rum (according to
+taste), give one more boil, and turn over the cake. Baste the cake with
+the sauce till the whole is absorbed by it. Serve warm or cold.
+
+_Sponge Cake._--Mix well together in a bowl six yolks of eggs with four
+ounces of sugar; add four ounces of flour and mix again, add also a few
+drops of essence, then whisk six whites of eggs to a stiff froth and mix
+them again with the rest. Butter a mould, put the mixture into it, not
+filling it more than two-thirds full, and bake in an oven at about 320
+degrees. Sponge cake may be cut in pieces and used to make a _Charlotte
+Russe_, instead of lady's fingers.
+
+_Apple Dumplings._--Quarter, peel, and core the apples, and cut them in
+pieces, then envelop them in puff-paste with beef-suet, boil till
+thoroughly done, and serve warm with sugar, or with apple or wine sauce.
+It may also be served with sauce for puddings.
+
+_Buckwheat Cakes._--Make a kind of thin dough with tepid water, yeast,
+buckwheat flour, and a little sugar and salt, let rise, and fry with
+butter. Serve hot with sugar, or molasses, or butter.
+
+_Corn Cakes._--Mix well in a bowl two eggs with two ounces of melted
+butter, a pint of corn-meal, salt and sugar to taste. While mixing set
+milk on the fire, and as soon as it rises, turn it into the mixture,
+little by little, stirring and mixing the while, and till it makes a
+kind of thick dough. Butter well a shallow bakepan, put the mixture into
+it, and bake.
+
+_Crullers._--Mix well together and work with a wooden spoon, in a bowl,
+one egg with two ounces of melted butter and half a pound of pulverized
+sugar; then add salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, a few drops of essence, and one
+pound of flour, and mix again; add also milk, little by little, stirring
+and mixing at the same time, enough to make a thick batter. Divide the
+mixture in parts and fry in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.)
+
+_Doughnuts._--Mix well together in a bowl four eggs with half a pound of
+sugar, add two or three ounces of melted butter and mix again, then mix
+with the whole, about one pound of flour and boiled milk enough to make
+a rather thick dough, season and mix well with the whole, nutmeg,
+cinnamon, and a few drops of essence. Cut in fancy pieces with a knife
+or paste-cutter, and fry in hot fat. (_See_ Frying.) Dust with sugar,
+and serve hot.
+
+_Muffins._--Mix well together on the paste-board one pound of flour and
+three eggs, then add and mix again milk enough to make a thin dough, a
+little yeast and salt. Put away to rise; divide in parts and bake.
+
+_Pound Cake._--Take a large bowl and put in it one pound of melted
+butter and one pound of pulverized sugar, and mix the two thoroughly
+together with a wooden spoon; then add and mix well also with them,
+three eggs previously beaten with a saltspoonful of nutmeg and cinnamon,
+half of each. When the eggs are mixed, add also half a pound of flour,
+mix well again; then add six well-beaten eggs, and mix; then another
+half pound of flour, a few drops of essence of rose, half a gill of
+Sherry wine, a liquor-glass of brandy, four ounces of citron, and half a
+pound of comfited fruit, chopped fine. Beat and mix as well as possible.
+Butter a mould, dust it with fine bread-crumbs, turn the mixture into
+it, and bake in a warm but not quick oven. It takes about two and a half
+hours to bake. As soon as cold, serve it. It may be glazed with sugar,
+or sugar and white of egg.
+
+_Short Cake._--Cut puff-paste, made with a pound of flour and six or
+eight ounces of butter, in square or round pieces, bake; when cold,
+spread sweetened strawberries on, then cover with another cake, spread
+strawberries again on it, etc. Strawberry-jelly may be used.
+
+_Plum._--Mix well in a vessel a pound of sugar with a pound of butter,
+and then again with eight eggs, one at a time, also half a pound of
+raisins, half a pound of flour, a little rum, and a little yeast. Line a
+mould with buttered paper, turn the mixture into it, not filling it more
+than two-thirds full, place it in a warm but not quick oven for nearly
+two hours, remove the mould, and serve hot or cold.
+
+_Tea Cake._--Put half a pound of flour on the paste-board, and in the
+middle of it a pinch of salt, half an ounce of sugar, two eggs, four
+ounces of melted butter, and cold water enough to make a rather stiff
+paste. Knead well, roll down to about a quarter of an inch in thickness;
+cut it in pieces with a knife or paste-cutter; moisten the top with
+water by means of a brush, dust with sugar, and bake in an oven at about
+370 degrees Fahr. Serve cold.
+
+_Viennois._--Make some biscuits in boxes, and when cold, cut off a
+little piece on the top, in the centre, which place you fill with
+peaches or apricots in _compote_; put two together; serve cold.
+
+_With Jelly._--Proceed as above in every particular, using currant or
+raspberry jelly instead of _compote_.
+
+
+  MEAT-PIES.
+
+_Pates de Viande._--Meat-pies are made in moulds without bottoms and
+which open in two, or are made of two pieces joined and fastened
+together with two pieces of wire. The size of the mould and that of the
+pie are according to taste. A pie may be made and filled with a
+reed-bird, or with a quail, or a partridge, or prairie-chicken, or with
+a dozen of them. We will give the receipt for one prairie-chicken.
+
+_Pate of Game._--Bone a prairie-chicken as directed for birds, and cut
+it in about half a dozen slices or pieces. Grease the mould with butter
+and put it in a baking-pan. Put one pound of flour on the paste-board
+and make a hole in the middle; place in it six ounces of butter, one
+egg, a pinch of salt, and about one gill and a half of cold water, and
+knead the whole well. Roll it down to a thickness of about one-quarter
+of an inch, and of a rectangular shape; fold in two, and roll down
+again. Repeat this from six to twenty times; that is, till the paste is
+soft. The last time roll it down to a thickness of one-third of an inch,
+and give it as round a shape as possible. Dust the upper side slightly
+with flour, fold in two in this way: turn the side farthest from you on
+the other, so that the side of the paste nearest to you will be somewhat
+round, and the opposite one will be straight. By pulling with the hands
+the two ends of the straight side toward you, it will make it somewhat
+round also; then, take hold of the paste exactly in the places where you
+were pulling; put it in the mould with the side nearest to you on the
+top; open it gently, and with the hands spread it so that the bottom and
+sides of the mould will be perfectly lined with it. With a sharp knife
+cut the paste even with the top of the mould. Line the sides of the
+paste with thin slices of fat salt pork. Mix in a bowl one pound and a
+half of sausage-meat with two eggs, salt, pepper, a pinch of cinnamon
+and one of nutmeg; place a layer of this mixture about half an inch
+thick on the bottom of the paste; then a layer of thin slices of fat
+salt pork; one of slices of prairie-chicken; again a layer of
+sausage-meat, one of salt pork, etc., layer upon layer, till the mould
+is nearly full, finishing with a layer of sausage-meat, and giving to
+the top of the _pate_ a convex form, but leaving a space of about half
+an inch unfilled all around, so that the top of the _pate_ will be about
+one inch higher than the sides, and half an inch higher than the sides
+of the mould and paste. The cover of the _pate_ is made with the same
+paste as the bottom and sides, or with puff-paste.
+
+Roll the paste down to a thickness of about one-eighth of an inch. Glaze
+the sides of the paste in the mould with egg; that is, the space (half
+an inch) left unfilled; put the paste for the cover on the _pate_; press
+it gently against the other paste with the fingers in order to cause the
+two pastes to adhere; with a sharp knife cut off the paste even with the
+mould. Make a hole in the middle and on the top of the cover about one
+inch in diameter; cut five pieces of paste about three inches square,
+dust them slightly with flour; place them one upon another on your left
+thumb, keeping it erect; then with the right hand take hold of the
+pieces, bringing the edges together so that the top will form a ball;
+with a sharp knife make two cuts across and through the five pieces;
+form a kind of stem as if you were to imitate a mushroom with these
+pieces, and plant the stem in the hole; when baked it looks like a
+flower. Glaze the cover with egg; cut strips of paste in different
+shapes with a knife or paste-cutter, place them on it according to
+fancy, and bake in an oven at about 390 degrees Fahr. The strips of
+paste may also be glazed with egg. It will take about two hours to bake.
+As soon as cold, cut the cover all around and remove it; fill the empty
+places with meat or calf's-foot jelly and put it on the dish. Chop some
+of the same jelly, put some all around it and on the top; cut some of it
+also in fancy shapes with a knife or paste-cutter; place it all around
+the dish and on the top of the _pate_, and serve.
+
+The cut following represents a plain pie; that is, without any
+decoration, and immediately after having removed the mould.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Another, or Rabbit-Pie._--Chop very fine and separately one pound of
+veal, one of beef, one of lean fresh pork, three of rabbit or hare, and
+three of fat fresh pork. Mix the whole well together and season with
+salt, pepper, cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, all grated or in powder.
+Line a mould with paste as directed above, put a layer of the mixture in
+the mould about one inch thick, place on it slices of truffles, if handy
+and liked; then another layer, truffles, etc., till the mould is full.
+If filled without truffles, it is not necessary to put layer after
+layer. Cover also as above, and bake in a moderately heated oven, about
+320 degrees Fahr. It takes from five to six hours to bake.
+
+_Another, or Prairie-chicken Pie._--Skin a prairie-hen (or several) and
+bone it. It is not necessary in boning it for a pie to proceed as
+directed for boned turkey, but merely to remove all the bones in the
+easiest and quickest manner; you cannot spoil the flesh, as it is to be
+chopped. Weigh the flesh when free from bones and skin. Weigh as much
+of each of the following: ham, salt pork, and calf's liver. Grate the
+salt pork and chop the three others very fine, and then pound the whole.
+Season with salt, pepper, cloves and nutmeg, both grated, a pinch of
+cinnamon and chopped parsley; mix with the whole two or three eggs, one
+at a time, in order to mix better. Line a mould with paste as directed
+above; line the paste with thin slices of salt pork, fill it with the
+mixture, and cover, bake, finish, and serve exactly the same as the
+preceding. For two prairie-hens it will require about three hours to
+bake. Slices of truffles may also be used; they are mixed at the same
+time with the eggs and seasonings.
+
+_With Cold Meat._--When the paste is placed in the mould as directed
+above, line it with thin slices of salt pork, then put a very thin layer
+of sausage-meat, prepared also as above, then fill with butcher's meat,
+poultry, and game, having previously removed all the bones, and cut the
+meat in strips; the greater the variety, the better the _pate_. Put a
+little of each kind of meat used in a mortar, say from one ounce to a
+pound, with parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, salt and pepper; pound the whole
+well and then mix with one egg, half a gill of white wine, or a
+liquor-glass of brandy, to every pound of meat. Fill the hollow places
+with the mixture, to which you may add a little gravy or broth if it is
+not liquid enough. Place thin slices of salt pork on the top, cover with
+paste as described above, cook and serve as above also.
+
+Meat-pies, as seen above, are made with every kind of meat; with one or
+several kinds at the same time, according to taste.
+
+Wines and liquors may be used, it is only a matter of taste. The cover
+may be placed with only a hole in the centre, instead of decorating it.
+
+By using in turn butcher's meat, poultry, and game, an infinite number
+of different _pates_ can easily be made.
+
+_Terrines (Terreen, or Tureen)._--A terrine differs from a meat-pie in
+this, that instead of using a tin or brass mould and lining it with
+paste, a _terrine_ (French word for terreen) is used, and is only lined
+with thin slices of salt pork, and closed with its cover. It is filled,
+cooked, and served in the same way as a meat-pie.
+
+_Timbale._--The name _timbale_ is given to a meat-pie when made in a
+straight tin mould, lined as a _terrine_, and covered with a tin cover.
+A _terrine_ or _timbale_ keeps longer in winter than the pie.
+
+_Pains de Gibier (Pains of Game)._--This means, loaves of game. It is a
+_terrine_ made with any kind of game, of one or of several kinds, with
+the exception that birds are boned and filled (_see_ Directions for
+Boning), before placing them in the terreen; also, before covering the
+terreen, place a piece of buttered paper all around, so as to have it as
+nearly air-tight as possible when covered. Bake as above, and as soon as
+out of the oven remove the cover; put a piece of tin, sheet-iron, or
+wood on the top, large enough to cover the meat, but not the border of
+the terreen. Place some weight on it in order to press the meat down,
+and leave thus over night. The weight and piece of tin are removed, the
+terreen is wiped clean, the cover placed on it, and it is then served,
+or served on a dish. It keeps very well in winter time, and many are
+imported from Europe, especially those made like the following:
+
+_Another._--Cut four ounces of boiled beef-tongue and one pound of
+truffles in large dice. Put about two ounces of salt pork in a
+frying-pan on the fire, and when fried, add about six ounces of the
+flesh of prairie-hen, cut in pieces, four prairie-hens' and four chicken
+livers, eight in all; stir, and when turning rather brown, add also
+chopped parsley, salt, and pepper; stir again for two or three minutes,
+and take off. Put in a mortar one pound of flesh of prairie-hen, baked
+and chopped; one pound and a quarter of fat salt pork, and about four
+ounces of _panade_. Pound the whole well and put it in a large bowl.
+Then pound well also the six ounces of prairie-hen flesh and eight
+livers with twelve yolks of eggs and a wine-glass of Madeira wine, and
+put in the bowl also. Add to it the tongue and truffles, and mix the
+whole well, adding game-gravy, or meat-gravy if more handy, about a gill
+of it, season to taste with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cloves, grated.
+Bay-leaf and thyme, well pounded, may also be used, if liked. After
+being pounded, the whole may be mashed through a sieve, but it is really
+not necessary. Then place the mixture in one, two, or three _terrines_,
+cook, and serve as above.
+
+_Another_.--Take the flesh of six prairie-hens when cooked, and pound it
+well. Pound also eight livers, fried; four of prairie-hens and four of
+chickens; put flesh and livers in a saucepan with gravy, set on a slow
+fire, and as soon as warm, add to it, little by little, and stirring
+continually, about three-fourths of its volume of good butter. When all
+the butter is in, take from the fire, mix one pound of truffles cut in
+dice with it; put the mixture in one or more terrines; cover, bake, and
+serve as above.
+
+_Terrines_ and _pains_ are sometimes made with poultry, and in the same
+way as those of game.
+
+_Fish-Pies_.--These are made in the same way as meat-pies, using cooked
+fish instead of meat, but putting fish only inside of the paste. When
+done it is filled with _coulis of fish_ instead of jelly. Serve as a
+meat-pie. The fish must be free from bones.
+
+_Fruit-Pies._--Pies are made with paste and fruit or vegetables. The
+under-paste may be made of trimmings of puff-paste, or of the paste
+hereafter described, but the top is always made of puff-paste. The paste
+on the top may cover the fruit entirely, or it may be only strips
+running across, according to taste and fancy. The fruit is used raw or
+cooked previously, according to kind; if it requires longer cooking than
+the paste, or if it requires to be mixed or mashed, it must be cooked
+previously.
+
+_Under-Paste._--Put one pound of flour on the paste-board with six
+ounces of butter in the middle of it; also two ounces of sugar, two
+eggs, and cold water enough to make an ordinary paste, neither too stiff
+nor too soft. Roll the paste down to a thickness of one-eighth of an
+inch, spread it on a tin dish or bakepan, buttered slightly, raise the
+borders a little or place a strip of puff-paste all around it; put the
+fruit in the middle, then cover with a thin piece of puff-paste or place
+strips of it only over the fruit, and bake in a rather quick oven, about
+390 degrees Fahr. The strips of paste are cut with a paste-cutter
+(caster-like) and placed across; one strip may also be placed all
+around. When trimmings of puff-paste are used for the under-paste, when
+placed on the tin or bake-pan, prick it in about a dozen places with a
+fork to prevent it from rising. To place a border around the paste, you
+have only to cut a strip of it about half an inch wide, wet the paste
+with water by means of a brush, that is, the edge or place where you are
+going to put it; then take hold of the strip, place one end of it on the
+paste and run it all around till you meet the end, cut it off and stick
+the two ends together by wetting them also. When the border is placed,
+then put the fruit in the middle; if the fruit is not cooked, it must be
+mixed with sugar and essence, or cinnamon, or nutmeg, according to
+kind, if cooked, that is, stewed, or in _compote_ or in jelly, it is
+sweetened and flavored.
+
+The following are used to make pies: _apples_, _apricots_, _cherries_,
+_currants_, _blackberries_, _cranberries_, _gooseberries_, _grapes_,
+_mulberries_, _oranges_, _peaches_, _pears_, _pine-apples_, _plums_,
+_quinces_, _raspberries_, _lemon_, _rhubarb_, _prunes_,
+_whortleberries_, etc. It is better to stone the fruit before using it.
+Pies are decorated in the three following ways:
+
+1. When you use cooked fruit, put a thin layer of rice (prepared as for
+_croquettes_) on the paste, then a layer of stewed fruit; then the
+strips over, and bake. Two or three layers of each may be used.
+
+2. When baked, spread over the pie some syrup of apples, of pears, or
+syrup for _compotes_.
+
+3. Just before serving, spread some _creme legere_ on the top,
+tastefully and fancifully, by means of a paper funnel, or with the
+pastry-bag.
+
+_Tarts and Tartelettes._--These are small pies. Instead of using a tin
+dish or a bakepan, you use small tin moulds, such as for _madeleines_,
+and proceed exactly as for pies.
+
+_Mince-Pie._--Every thing used to make a mince-pie is chopped fine, and
+the spices are used in powder. Prepare paste as directed for meat-pies,
+and make it either with or without mould. Proportions: to three pounds
+of beef add six pounds of beef-suet, one pound of currants, one of
+prunes, one of raisins, and one of apples, the rind of two lemons, two
+ounces of citron, and one pound of any kind of comfited fruit; nutmeg,
+mace, cinnamon, cloves, and sugar to taste; also wine or brandy, or
+both, to taste. Bake in a moderately heated oven. The fruits may be used
+candied or fresh, the apples fresh or dried, it is a matter of taste.
+Twenty kinds of fruits and meat may be used as well as three or four;
+there are no rules to make a mince-pie, since its compounds are not used
+to be tasted at all separately, but as a whole.
+
+_Pot-Pie._--Make a paste with one pound of flour, two ounces of butter,
+two ounces of beef-suet (the latter prepared as directed for
+puff-paste), a little salt and water, enough to make a rather stiff
+paste; roll it down to a thickness of about a quarter of an inch and
+fold it in three and roll down again; repeat the process half a dozen
+times, the last time leaving it rolled down and of the thickness above
+mentioned. Line the sides of a pot with it, lay slices or strips of salt
+pork on the bottom of the pot, then fill it with strips of meat, any and
+every kind (slices of potatoes may be added, if liked); season with
+salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cinnamon; fill with water or broth; cover with
+some of the same paste; cover the pan and boil gently till done. When
+the cover of paste is laid on, make a hole in the centre to let the
+steam out, and to fill up with water or broth if it boils away. Run a
+sharp-pointed knife or a skewer through, to ascertain when done. Serve
+warm. Proceed as above either for butcher's meat, chicken, and other
+domestic fowls, or game.
+
+Puddings.--Puddings are made of several materials and in a hundred
+different ways. Some are cooked by boiling, others are baked, and some
+are both boiled and baked. Puddings for inhabitants of cities ought to
+be made as light as possible. For persons working outside and at manual
+labor, it does not matter, because their food passes through the system
+in a short time. It is very well known that the poorer class of
+Americans eat too much pudding and pie. Many do it for economy, others
+for convenience. The former are mistaken, and the latter are blamable.
+Puddings and pies cost more in the end than meat properly and carefully
+prepared. We do not mean to do away with them entirely, but we advise
+every one to do with puddings as with every thing else, "use, but do not
+abuse." "Pies, cakes, and sweetmeats, are universally known to be
+poisoning to children, and the mothers who give them are conscious that
+they are purchasing the momentary smile of satisfaction at the risk of
+after-sickness, and perhaps of incurable disease."--Peter Parley.
+
+The above needs no commentary; we only recommend it to the consideration
+of young mothers.
+
+_For Convenience._--We have taken the trouble to put questions about it
+to over three hundred mothers, wives of mechanics or of employes at a
+comparatively small salary, and we are sorry to say, that more than
+ninety per cent. gave us about the same answer--they make and cook cakes
+in one day, enough to feed the whole family for three days, to save the
+trouble of cooking every day. We cannot see where the trouble can be for
+a good wife and mother to prepare her husband and children's dinner.
+
+Pudding-eating is an English custom; but, before following a custom of
+another country, people ought to consider if that custom or fashion
+(whatever it is) has not been introduced into that country by necessity,
+which is the case of pudding-eating in England and in some parts of
+Holland.
+
+In England, where the fog is nearly perpetual, the stomach requires to
+be filled with something heavy, something that will stay there till the
+next meal, and very often longer than that.
+
+It is well known that in England farm hands, or other persons working in
+the open air, eat six times a day, and have pudding at least three
+times; they drink home-brewed beer, which is very heavy, and very rich
+also. Let anyone here, in this pure, clear atmosphere, eat six times a
+day, have pudding three times, with a pint of home-brewed beer every
+time, and see how he will feel in the evening. We beg all, who may doubt
+our observations, to try the experiment.
+
+Pastry in general, no matter how light it may be made, lies heavier on
+the stomach than any other food, and is very difficult of digestion.
+There are thousands of persons that have never had any indigestion but
+of pastry. Children like pastry very much; this is easily understood; as
+their young stomachs digest very rapidly, they crave food oftener than
+grown persons. Pastry being easier to have at any time than any thing
+else, it is given to them; and from habit in youth arises the liking
+when grown up. The stomach, being accustomed to it from infancy, may
+digest it better, but it is always at the expense of the whole system;
+the stomach must work hard, too hard in digesting it; whence come
+dyspepsia, weakness, and finally consumption, or debility, or any other
+sickness of the same kind.
+
+The cut below represents a pudding (any kind), made in a mould,
+scalloped, and hollow in the middle; any kind of mould may be used for
+puddings.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Bread-Pudding._--Soak half a ten-cent loaf in milk for about an hour,
+and squeeze it with the hands; place the bread in a bowl and mix well
+with it a gill of milk, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, one ounce of
+citron, cut rather fine, four ounces of raisins, four ounces of melted
+butter, four yolks of eggs. Then beat the four whites of the eggs to a
+stiff froth and mix them with the rest. Grease a mould well with butter,
+dust it with bread-crumbs, turn the mixture into it, and bake. The mould
+must not be more than about two-thirds full. About 400 degrees Fahr. is
+the proper heat for a bread-pudding. It takes about forty minutes to
+bake. Serve with a sauce for pudding, hot or cold, according to taste.
+
+_Cabinet Pudding._--A cabinet pudding is made in any kind of a mould and
+of any size, with sponge-cake or lady's fingers. Butter a mould well; if
+the butter is too firm, warm it so as to grease the mould better. Slice
+some citron and cut it in lozenges or of any other shape, according to
+fancy, and place tastefully on the bottom of the mould; place some
+raisins all around also. It is not necessary to cover the bottom with
+them, but have some here and there, imitating flowers, stars, etc. Then
+put over them a layer of sponge-cake, cut in strips of any length and
+about half an inch thick; on this layer place some citron, some comfited
+(candied) fruit of one or several kinds, and all cut in dice, also some
+raisins; then another layer of cake, some more fruit, and so on, till
+the mould is full. After having placed the citron and raisins on the
+bottom, it is not necessary to put the rest in with care or order, but
+merely fill the mould with them and so that they are all mixed up. Set
+about a pint of milk on the fire and take it off as soon as it rises.
+Mix well in a bowl three ounces of sugar with three yolks of eggs, then
+turn the milk into the bowl, little by little, stirring and mixing the
+while, and pour the mixture over the cake, fruit, etc., into the mould.
+The above quantities of milk, sugar, and eggs are for a middling-sized
+pudding, and it will be very easy to make more or less, according to the
+size of the pudding. The mixture must be poured over in sprinkling, and
+it must nearly cover the whole within about half an inch. It must not be
+poured too slowly, for, the cake absorbing the liquor pretty fast, you
+would have too much of it if you were filling as directed above; we mean
+filling till the mould is nearly full. Place the mould in a pan of cold
+water so that it is about one-third covered by it, set on the fire, and
+as soon as it boils, place the whole, pan and mould, in an oven at about
+380 degrees Fahr., and bake. For a middling-sized one it takes about one
+hour. When done, place a dish over the mould, turn upside down, remove
+the mould, and serve with a sauce for puddings.
+
+_With Vermicelli._--Blanch four ounces of vermicelli, drain and drop it
+in cold water and drain again. While the vermicelli is cooking, put
+about a quart of milk in a saucepan on the fire with two ounces of sugar
+and a piece of lemon-rind, stir now and then to dissolve the sugar, and
+as soon as the milk rises, take it from the fire, remove the lemon, then
+turn the vermicelli into it, put back on the fire, add a tablespoonful
+of butter, stir continually, and when the vermicelli is well cooked,
+take off, mix well with the whole four eggs and sugar to taste. Turn the
+mixture into a well-buttered mould, place it in a pan of boiling water,
+boil slowly for ten minutes, then place as it is, pan and mould, in a
+moderately-heated oven to finish the cooking. It will take from fifteen
+to twenty minutes. Proceed as above with _macaroni_, _tapioca_, etc.
+
+_Plum-Pudding._--Break with the hands, in small pieces, about twelve
+ounces of the soft part of good and well-baked bread, not too fresh, but
+not stale, and grate it. Clean twelve ounces of raisins and currants,
+half of each. Cut in small dice four ounces of citron and four ounces of
+candied orange-rind. Chop fine the rind of a lemon. Butter a towel
+slightly and dust it with flour, slightly also. Take twelve ounces of
+good fresh beef-suet, remove the fibres and skin as well as possible,
+and chop it rather fine with three or four ounces of flour, and which
+put in a large bowl. Mix with it seven eggs and half a pound of sugar.
+It is believed by many that brown sugar is better than white, but it is
+only a belief, if not a prejudice. Add and mix again the bread, the
+raisins, and currants, the citron, and orange-rind. Having the whole
+thoroughly mixed, add half a gill of French brandy or Jamaica rum, a
+little salt, the lemon-rind, half a gill of cream or a little milk, and
+a little grated cinnamon. Place the mixture on the towel, and tie it as
+fast as possible, giving it a round shape. Drop the towel in boiling
+water, and boil for from four to five hours. Some boil a plum-pudding as
+long as seven hours. It may also be boiled in a mould for that purpose,
+but it is easier in a towel and quite as good. When taken from the
+water, remove the towel, cut a little piece of the pudding off to make
+it stand better on the dish. The place cut off is generally where the
+towel was tied, being the less smooth. The cut following shows a
+plum-pudding boiled in a towel.
+
+Serve with a sauce for puddings. The sauce may be served in a boat, or
+spread all over the pudding. When served the second day, or cold for
+supper, it is cut in slices; some Jamaica rum is poured over it, then
+set on fire, basting as long as it burns, and serve. It is generally
+burnt on the table, but the rum may be poured over in the kitchen. The
+cut below represents a whole one with rum around it and on fire.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Biscottes._--Put half a pound of flour on the paste-board and make a
+hole in the middle of it; put in the hole four ounces of sugar, one
+ounce of butter, three yolks of eggs, and a few drops of essence to
+flavor the cakes. Mix and knead the whole well with the hand. When like
+dough, roll it under your hands and bring it to a rope-like form of
+about three-quarters of an inch in diameter; cut it in pieces about two
+inches long; roll again with the hand so as to make a ball of each; then
+roll again with both hands so as to give each piece a round, elongated,
+olive shape; that is, smaller at each end than at the middle. Put them
+in a baking-pan, greased with butter; glaze each piece well with egg and
+a little sugar beaten together, then, with a sharp knife, which you dip
+in flour, make a cut on the top and into each cake, lengthwise, about
+three-quarters through, and bake in an oven at 350 degrees Fahr. Serve
+cold. It is an excellent cake for tea as well as for dessert.
+
+_With Almonds._--Add to the above mixture one ounce of pounded almonds.
+
+_With Filberts or Hazel-nuts._--Add to the mixture for _biscottes_, one
+ounce of filberts or hazel-nuts, pounded well.
+
+_Brioche._--Mix together on the paste-board, one pound of flour, six
+eggs, one pound of butter, four ounces of leaven prepared as directed,
+and tepid water enough to make a rather soft dough, then beat well. The
+longer it is beaten the better, and the lighter the _brioche_ will be.
+By beating we mean--take hold of the dough with the right hand, raise it
+and then throw it with force on the board and in the same place where it
+was; repeat that till it comes off your hand without any of the paste
+sticking to it. Put the mixture in a tin vessel, set it in a warm place
+(about 78 deg. Fahr.) for about two hours to rise, and then put immediately
+on ice to cool. When cold, put it back on the paste-board, cut off about
+one-fourth of it. Make a kind of crown with the larger piece, but not a
+very large one; let the hole in the middle be about three inches in
+diameter. Then give the other piece a rope-like shape, about
+three-quarters of an inch in diameter; place it over the crown, giving
+it the shape of a star, and bake in an oven at 430 deg.. Serve warm, without
+sauce.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+_Baba._--Mix together and beat as for a _brioche_, one pound of flour,
+ten eggs, one pound and a quarter of butter, four ounces of raisins,
+four ounces of citron, four ounces of leaven, about half a pound of
+different kinds of fruits, preserved in syrup or candied, all cut fine;
+put to rise, let cool, shape, bake and serve as a _brioche_.
+
+A _baba_ may be baked in a mould; the cut on the previous page
+represents one.
+
+_Croquignolles._--Put in a bowl four ounces of flour, a teaspoonful of
+sugar, a pinch of salt, half a pound of butter, four whites of eggs, and
+a few drops of essence; mix the whole well so as to make a very stiff
+paste. Then put the mixture on the paste-board, and roll it in a
+rope-like form about half an inch in diameter; then cut it in pieces
+about half an inch long, glaze with yolk of egg, dust with sugar, and
+bake in a warm but not quick oven. Serve cold at tea.
+
+_Galette._--Knead together half a pound of flour, six ounces of butter,
+two eggs, and a pinch of salt; roll it down to a thickness of a quarter
+of an inch, put in a bake-pan in the oven, and when nearly done, take
+off; mix well together one egg with a gill of cream and an ounce of
+butter, while the _galette_ is in the oven, spread the mixture over it,
+put back in the oven, finish the cooking, and serve cold at tea.
+
+_Genoises._--Put in a large bowl six ounces of flour, eight of sugar,
+two eggs, a liquor-glass of brandy or rum, and a few drops of essence;
+mix and stir the whole well for three minutes, then add two more eggs,
+stir and mix one minute longer, add again four eggs and continue
+stirring one minute longer. Melt half a pound of butter in another bowl,
+and mix with it about two tablespoonfuls of the mixture; when, turn into
+the other bowl and mix the whole well together. Butter a bakepan, spread
+the mixture in it, and bake in a rather slow oven (about 300 deg. Fahr.).
+When the top is well baked, turn it over and finish it. When cold, cut
+the whole in strips about two inches long, then again across so as to
+make pieces of a lozenge-shape, and serve as it is or with a _sauce for
+puddings_.
+
+_The same, with Almonds._--Pound well four or six ounces of sweet
+almonds, place them in the bowl with the rest, and then mix, bake, and
+serve as the above one.
+
+Do the same with _bitter almonds_, _hazel-nuts_, _peanuts_, _filberts_,
+and _raisins_; flavor with any kind of essence.
+
+_With Chocolate._--When the cake is cut in pieces, glaze it as directed
+for _eclair au chocolat_.
+
+_With Sweetmeats._--When the cake is cut in pieces, with a sharp-pointed
+knife, cut off a part of each piece, on the top and right in the centre,
+so as to make a small hole, which you fill with any kind of sweetmeat or
+with any _cream_, and then serve. When thus served, they are called
+under several names.
+
+_Macaroons._--Throw into boiling water for five minutes ten ounces of
+sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter ones; skin them well; put in a
+mortar, and pound them to a paste, adding a few drops of the white of
+eggs during the process. Grind well also a pound of white sugar, with
+the quarter of a rind of lemon well grated; then mix well together
+almonds, sugar, and the whites of two eggs. Make balls of any size with
+it; put the balls on a piece of paper, beat the yolk of an egg with half
+a gill of water, and glaze the top of the balls with it by means of a
+brush; put them in a slow oven; it will take about fifteen minutes to
+cook them.
+
+_Macaroons with Chocolate._--Melt on a slow fire and in a tin pan three
+ounces of chocolate without sugar (known as Baker's chocolate); then
+work it to a thick paste with one pound of pulverized sugar, and three
+whites of eggs. Roll the mixture down to a thickness of about
+one-quarter of an inch; cut it in small round pieces with a
+paste-cutter, either plain or scalloped; butter a pan slightly and dust
+it with flour and sugar, half of each, place the pieces of paste or
+mixture in and bake in a hot but not quick oven. Serve cold.
+
+_Madeleines._--Mix well together in a bowl three ounces of sugar, three
+of flour, and two eggs, then again one ounce of melted butter and a few
+drops of essence to flavor. Butter slightly small tin moulds, dust them
+slightly also with flour and sugar, half of each, turn the mixture in,
+filling the moulds only two-thirds full, and bake in an oven at about
+340 deg.. Serve cold.
+
+_The same, with Almonds._--Chop rather fine some sweet almonds, and when
+the mixture is in the moulds as described above, spread the almonds over
+them; bake, and serve as above.
+
+Do the same with _hazel-nuts_, _filberts_, _peanuts_, or _raisins_.
+
+_Meringues or Kisses._--Put half a pound of pulverized sugar in a plate,
+beat six whites of eggs to a stiff froth as directed, then have somebody
+to sprinkle the half pound of sugar into the eggs, and while you are
+still beating, which must be done in two seconds; stop beating and mix
+gently with a spoon, not by stirring but by turning the whole upside
+down several times. If it is stirred too much, it may turn too liquid.
+Put the mixture in the pastry-bag, with tin tube No. 2 at the end of it;
+spread the mixture on paper in a baking-pan, in oblong cakes about three
+inches long; dust them with pulverized sugar, and put in an oven at from
+220 deg. to 230 deg. Fahr. It requires some time to dry them, about one hour. As
+soon as taken from the oven, place one in your left hand, the top
+downward; press gently on the under side which is up, with the first
+finger of the right hand, so as to make a hollow; put in that hollow
+twice as much cream as is necessary to fill it; place another cake
+prepared alike over the cream; so that the two will be united and kept
+together by the cream; do the same with the rest; place them tastefully
+on a dish; dust them with sugar, and serve. They are generally filled
+with _whipped cream_, but may be filled with _creme legere_ or _creme
+cuite_. They may also be filled with _creme Chantilly_.
+
+_Swiss Meringue._--Instead of squeezing the mixture out and spreading it
+in oblong cakes, make a crown of it, then another and another, four in
+all, dust and bake in the same way; place them on a dish, one above the
+other, and fill the middle of the dish with cream as above. Serve cold.
+The mixture may also be placed on paper by the spoonful, but they are
+not as sightly as by means of the pastry-bag.
+
+_Zephyrs._--Proceed as for meringues as far as mixing the sugar with the
+whites of eggs, when mix also with both a few drops of cochineal. Put
+the mixture in the pastry-bag, with tin tube No. 1 at the end of it.
+Squeeze the mixture out and spread it on paper in a baking-pan, in
+different shapes: dentilated, convoluted, overlapping, waved, etc.,
+according to fancy, about three inches and a half long. Bake in same
+oven as meringues, and serve when cold, as they are.
+
+_Nougat._--Throw a pound of sweet almonds into boiling water for five
+minutes; skin them well, and when cool cut them in four or five pieces
+lengthwise; then melt a pound of fine white sugar with two spoonfuls of
+water, in a copper or crockery pan, and on a good fire, stirring all
+the time with a wooden spoon; when well melted, put the almonds in;
+keep stirring about five minutes longer, take from the fire, add a
+little of the rind of a lemon well grated, oil the mould, put it on the
+corner of the range in a warm but not too hot place; put the almonds and
+sugar in the mould, and little by little take off when of a brown color,
+turn on a plate, remove the mould, and serve.
+
+_Pancakes._--Make a thin paste with one pound of flour, four eggs, two
+tablespoonfuls of sweet-oil, one of French brandy, a little salt, the
+necessary quantity of lukewarm water and milk, about half of each; let
+it remain thus two or three hours at least; then put about an ounce of
+lard, butter, or oil in a frying-pan, and set it on a brisk fire; when
+hot, put some of the paste in it with a ladle, spread the paste so as to
+cover the bottom of the pan; fry on both sides, place it on a dish, dust
+it with fine white sugar on both sides, and serve warm.
+
+Buckwheat and other pancakes are made in the same way.
+
+_Waffles._--Make a thin paste with eight ounces of flour, six ounces of
+pulverized sugar, two eggs, a few drops of essence to flavor, half a
+liquor-glass of brandy or rum, and milk. Warm and butter both sides of
+the mould, put some of the paste into it, close it gently, set it on the
+fire, turn over to heat both sides equally, dust them with sugar when
+done, and serve either warm or cold. It takes hardly a minute for each
+with a good fire.
+
+
+  BREAD.
+
+It is next to an impossibility to bake bread in a small oven; half the
+time the bread is too much or not enough baked. In cities, where good
+baker's bread can be bought, it comes as cheap as it can be made at
+home, if not cheaper, and saves a great deal of time and labor. It is
+not difficult to make good bread with good flour. There are several ways
+of making and of using yeast. Some are better than others; but many,
+though differently manipulated, bring about the same results. The only
+difficulty is the baking of it. Bakers can almost always bake bread
+properly, having large brick ovens. If they do not bake their bread
+enough, which is generally the case, it is not because they cannot, but
+because under-baked bread is heavier, and people, especially the poorer
+class, buy it in preference to the other; judging by the weight, they
+think they have more of it for a certain sum of money. Under-baked bread
+is difficult of digestion. (_See_ Food.)
+
+The best bread is made with the best wheat-flour, all that can be said
+by anybody to the contrary notwithstanding. Rye, corn, and barley bread
+are excellent, and may be partaken of by those whose constitution,
+occupation, etc., allow it. In every thing, bread included, the people,
+or what may be called "the million," are wiser than _soi-disant_
+philosophers; and if oat-meal or Indian-meal were better than
+wheat-flour, they would be dearer. To describe or discuss the
+innumerable methods of making bread would require several volumes. We
+have perused carefully hundreds of them; they nearly all differ
+theoretically, but practically, when practical (which is not always the
+case), they amount to about the same thing. We think that the only
+difficulty, if difficulty there be, is in the use of the yeast, the
+making of the same, and the baking. Chemical processes for rising will
+never equal the processes of nature and time. Many bakers do not use the
+yeast properly, their bread being sour or musty; some sweeten their
+bread, to disguise an inferior quality of flour, or as an antidote to
+sourness or mustiness.
+
+Bread gets dry after a while, and is inferior in quality and taste. The
+lighter the bread the better, although many do not think so. The belief
+may come from the fact that the lighter bread is the more porous, and
+therefore the quicker it evaporates and loses its taste. Warm bread,
+besides being injurious to the teeth, is difficult of digestion. When
+perfectly cold, let it stand in a dry place, neither cold nor warm, for
+one or two hours, and use. We give below the best methods of making
+bread--French bread, or rather good light bread, for we do not see that
+it is more French than Chinese or American, as long as it can be made
+everywhere with good flour; it is certainly the best for inhabitants of
+a large city, and especially for those having a sedentary occupation.
+Let us apply the proverb to bread as well as to every thing else: "Feed
+me with food convenient for me."--_Bible._
+
+Mix well together one gill of good strong yeast with half a pound of
+flour, so that it makes a rather stiff paste. Knead so that you shape it
+like a ball. Make two cuts with a knife on the top, across and about
+one-quarter of an inch deep; then place the paste in a bowl of tepid
+water (milk-warm), the cuts upward. After it has been in the water for a
+few minutes it will float and swell; let it float about two minutes,
+when take off and use. Put six ounces of flour on the paste-board, and
+make a hole in the middle; put into it the yeast prepared as above,
+tepid water enough to make an ordinary dough, and salt to taste. Knead
+well, shape according to fancy, put in a warm place (about 78 deg.
+Fahr.) to rise, and bake. It requires about six hours to rise.
+
+_Another._--Wash and clean thoroughly half a pound of potatoes, and then
+steam them with the skins on. Mash them well with half a pint of flour,
+about half a pint of tepid water, and half an ounce of salt. When
+thoroughly mixed, put away in a warm place (about 78 deg. Fahr.) for one
+hour. Then add and mix with it half a pint of good yeast, and put away
+in the same place for about nine hours. It may take a little longer than
+nine hours or a little less, but it is very easy to know, and in this
+way: after a while it will rise slowly and gradually for some time, and
+then begin to fall; as soon as it begins to fall, mix a little tepid
+water with it and strain through a sieve; throw away potato skins and
+eyes; mix what is strained with two pounds of flour and tepid water
+enough to make an ordinary dough. Put it away again in the same place
+until it cracks on the top, which will take place in about an hour. Then
+put six pounds of flour on the paste-board, and make a hole in the
+middle; put into it a little tepid water and the dough when cracked;
+knead the whole well with water enough to make an ordinary dough, salt
+to taste. To knead it well, it is necessary to raise the dough or part
+of it, and then throw it back on the paste-board with force. The more
+the dough is kneaded, the better and lighter the bread. Then shape the
+loaves, let rise, and bake in a very quick oven.
+
+_To shape._--Divide the dough, as soon as kneaded, in as many parts as
+you wish to make loaves; then knead each part, one after another, so as
+to make a kind of ball; then, by rolling and pulling it, give it an
+elongated, sausage-like shape. A pound loaf can be made a foot and a
+half long, as well as four inches; it will only be narrower and thinner,
+and will have more crust. When the dough is thus elongated, take a round
+stick or a small rolling-pin, place it on the top of the dough, right on
+the middle, lengthwise, and then press on it and roll just a little, to
+and fro, so as to make a kind of furrow in the middle. Have a towel
+well dusted with flour, place the dough on it upside down, that is, the
+furrowed side under; let rise as ordinary bread; turn it into a pan, but
+so that the furrowed side will be up (the side that was down in rising
+must be up in baking); dust the furrow well with rye-flour to prevent
+the paste from closing, so that the top of the loaf will be concave
+instead of convex when baked.
+
+_Another._--Steam half a pound of potatoes and mash them well; then mix
+them immediately and while hot with about a pint of flour, a quart of
+water, and half a pint of good strong yeast. Leave the mixture six hours
+in a rather warm place, then strain through a sieve, pressing the
+potato-skins so as to squeeze all the liquid out of them. Immediately
+add to the strained mixture flour enough to make ordinary dough, which
+you knead a little, and let stand as it is from one to two hours and a
+half, according to temperature. Knead then with it about six pounds of
+flour, salt to taste, and tepid water to make ordinary dough, and leave
+it thus two hours, then shape in the same way as the above; put it to
+rise in the same way also (it will take from one to two hours, according
+to temperature); dust with rye-flour, and bake.
+
+French bread may be shaped like other bread, round or square; it is just
+as good.
+
+Rolls, or rather French rolls as they are generally called, are made,
+shaped, and baked in the same way.
+
+It is a mistake to call _bread_ certain mixtures of flour, soda, and
+milk; or flour, milk, and butter, etc.; it is no more bread than a
+mixture of carbonic acid, water, alcohol, molasses, vitriol, etc., is
+wine. No one can give a name to such a mixture except chemists.
+
+
+
+
+  BILLS OF FARE.
+
+
+_Dinner-Time._--On account of the various occupations of members of the
+same family, this is often the first and only time of the day that sees
+them all assembled. It is the dinner that mostly supplies the waste that
+the system has undergone for twenty-four hours. Being taken after the
+day's work is over, it gives to the stomach time to digest (mind and
+stomach never working at the same time). (_See_ Food, Economy, Coffee,
+and Tea.)
+
+The dinner, being the most substantial meal of the day, requires more
+preparation than any other meal; the bill of fare of it should,
+therefore, be made the day before, or at least early in the morning. It
+should always be made between the mistress or master of the house and
+the cook; written and hung in the kitchen, near the clock. The first
+thing to put down is what may be left from the preceding day, and also
+what may be in the larder; then what is wanted in butcher's meat or
+poultry, or both; the fish or game, or both, and which, with vegetables,
+are according to the market. It is then one of the duties of the cook to
+make a list of what is wanted as accessories; such as flour, eggs,
+sugar, spices, etc.
+
+Besides the above, it is also the duty of the cook to send the dishes to
+the table in their regular order; for, if the whole dinner is sent at
+once, all the dishes have to be eaten at once also, else the last get
+cold and are unpalatable, or, by mixing them, they are rendered
+tasteless, as the flavor of one neutralizes (if it does not destroy) the
+taste of another.
+
+To make models of bills of fare is not difficult, but to follow them is
+nearly impossible; hardly one in a hundred would suit any one.
+
+Bills of fare vary according to the season of the year, and therefore to
+the produce in the market.
+
+We will try to give another, and we think a better way of making them to
+suit everybody, every purse, and at any time.
+
+A dinner, no matter how grand, is composed of three courses, and seven
+kinds of dishes.
+
+The first course comprises dishes of four kinds, viz.: potages,
+_hors-d'oeuvres_, _releves_, _and entrees_.
+
+The second course comprises dishes of two kinds, viz.: _rots_ and
+_entremets_.
+
+The third course comprises dishes of one kind, the dessert.
+
+The number of dishes of each kind is generally according to the number
+of guests.
+
+It may also be according to the importance of the occasion for which the
+dinner is given; to the honor the giver or givers wish to show the
+personage or personages invited; to the amount of money they are willing
+to spend, etc.
+
+The following table shows how many dishes of each kind are to be served
+at dinner to a certain number of persons:
+
+  -----+-+-+-+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+---+----------------------------------------
+  For..|2|4|6|10|16|20|30|40|50|60|80|100| Persons.
+  Serve|1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8| Potages.
+    "  |2|2|2| 4| 4| 6| 6|10|10|12|12| 16| Hors-d'oeuvres.
+    "  |1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8| Releves of fish.
+    "  |1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8|   "     of meat.
+    "  |2|2|2| 4| 4| 4| 8| 8| 8|12|16| 16| Entrees.
+    "  |1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8| Rots.
+    "  |1|1|1| 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 4| 6| 8|  8| Salads of greens.
+    "  |2|2|2| 4| 4| 4| 8| 8| 8|12|16| 16| Entremets.
+    "  | | | |  |  | 2| 2| 2| 4| 4| 6|  8| Large side pieces of Releves & Entrees.
+    "  | | | |  |  |  |  | 2| 2| 4| 4|  6|   "   cakes.
+    "  |4|4|4| 8| 8| 8|16|16|16|24|32| 36| Plates of Dessert.
+  -----+-+-+-+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+---+----------------------------------------
+
+The above table shows the number of dishes, but more than one dish of
+the same kind can be served; for instance, four kinds of potages,
+_releves_, etc., are served for forty; but two or four dishes of each
+kind can be served.
+
+The size of the _releves_ and _rots_ should be according to the number
+of guests.
+
+It is just as easy to select dishes for a small family-dinner as for a
+grand one; two, three, four, or more dishes can be selected; for
+instance, you select a potage, an _entree_ or _rot_, or both, one
+vegetable or a sweet dish, or both; and one or as many plates of dessert
+as you please.
+
+Have a bouquet on the middle of the table, if possible, or at least a
+basket of fruit. Flowers during dinner have the same effect as music
+after it; they soften the manners, and gently and sweetly gratify the
+senses.
+
+To simplify and render the making of bills of fare easy, we have divided
+the different dishes into seven parts, each part being in the order the
+dishes of which must be served, and representing the seven kinds of
+dishes composing a dinner. By this means you select the dish or dishes
+which suit you, and which you can procure in any or all of the seven
+parts, and your bill of fare is made, and more to your liking than any
+steward on earth can do.
+
+_Order of dishes._--1. _Potages_. 2. _hors-d'oeuvres_. 3. _Releves_: of
+fish, and then of meat. 4. _Entrees_: beef, mutton, lamb, veal, fish,
+poultry, and game last. 5. _Rots_: of meat, and then of fish. 6.
+_Entremets_: salads of greens, vegetables, eggs, macaroni, sweet dishes,
+and cakes. 7. _Dessert_: cheese the first.
+
+_First part_, or _Potages_.--Any kind coming under the head of potages
+or soups.
+
+_Second part_, or _hors-d'oeuvres_.--These are small dishes placed on
+the table as soon as the soup-dish is removed or even before, and which
+are removed just before serving the sweet dishes of the _entremets_.
+They are passed round after every dish, on account of being considered
+more as appetizers, as repairers of the natural waste of animal life.
+Very little of them is partaken of at a time; they are _anchovies_;
+_artichockes_, raw; pickled _beets_; _butter_; _caviare_; _cervelas_;
+raw _cucumbers_; _figs_; every kind of _fish_, salted, smoked, pickled,
+or preserved in oil; every kind of _pickled fruit_; _horse-radish_;
+_horse-radish butter_; _melons_; broiled _mushrooms_; _olives_; raw and
+pickled _oysters_; steamed _potatoes_ served with butter; _radishes_ and
+butter; _sardines_; _saucissons_; _sausages_, salt and smoked, but not
+fresh; salted and smoked _tongue_; _tunny_, _walnuts_ in salad.
+
+_Third part_, or _Releves_.--_Releves_ are composed of fish and large
+pieces of meat. A fish served whole is always a _releve_; in pieces, it
+is an _entree_. Pieces of _beef_, _mutton_, and _pork_, roasted, are
+always served as _releves_. At a family dinner the _releve_ is almost
+always a fish. The other pieces of meat that are served as _releves_
+are: _bear_, _buffalo_, boiled and corned _beef_, _leg_ and _saddle_ of
+mutton, _quarters_ of lamb, large pieces of _veal_; also all
+_vol-au-vent_ of meat and of fish, _bouchees_ and _fish-pies_.
+
+_Fourth part_, or _Entrees_.--These comprise every dish of meat, except
+poultry and game, when roasted; every dish of _fish_ not served whole;
+also _pates de foies gras_, _sour-krout_, _snails_, _meat-pies_,
+_terrines_, _pains_ of game and of poultry. The dishes of _meat_
+mentioned in the _releves_ may be served as entrees at a family dinner.
+The order of the dishes is described above.
+
+_Fifth part_, or _Rots_.--_Poultry_, _game_, and _fish_. At a family
+dinner, _lamb_ and _veal_ are often served as roasted pieces, especially
+at seasons when there is no game, and poultry is scarce.
+
+_Sixth part_, or _Entremets_.--The following are served as _entremets_:
+all _salads_ of greens; all dishes of _vegetables_, of _omelets_, except
+four, viz., with bacon, salt pork, ham, and kidneys. Also dishes of
+_macaroni_, of _rice_, _eggs a la neige_, all _sweet dishes_ (sweet
+dishes are also served as _dessert_), and _cakes_; such as _baba_,
+_brioche_, _genoises_, _madeleines_, _savarin_, and sponge-cake.
+
+_Seventh part_, or _Dessert_.--The dessert comprises ripe _fruit_,
+_sweet dishes_ (these are also served as _entremets_, according to
+taste), _pastry_ (except meat-pies, _terrines_, and _pains_), _salads_
+of fruits, and cheese. The latter is always served the first (_see_
+Cheese). After cheese, there is no rule for serving the other plates of
+dessert; it is according to each one's taste.
+
+_Punch_ is served after the _entrees_ or after the _releves_ of fish,
+according to taste.
+
+_Early Breakfast_.--We are of opinion that everybody ought to eat as
+little meat as possible, and drink no wine, beer, or any other liquor at
+an early breakfast, no matter what the sex or age may be, except when
+prescribed by the physician in case of sickness, debility, etc. The food
+may be selected from the following: _bread_ and _butter_, _eggs_,
+_omelets_, fried _fish_, fried _vegetables_, _sardines_, and _fruit_,
+according to the season.
+
+As for meat, in case it should be eaten, it ought to be cold, such as
+fowl or veal, cooked the day before.
+
+Muffins, and other cakes or pastes, served warm, are very bad for the
+stomach and teeth.
+
+The beverage ought to be either coffee, with milk, chocolate, cocoa,
+choca, or cold water, but do not by any means drink tea at breakfast; it
+is too astringent.
+
+Although cold meat is not by far so injurious as warm meat for
+breakfast, it ought, nevertheless, to be as little partaken of as
+possible, and especially by the young.
+
+_Late Breakfast, Lunch, Tea, and early Supper_.--At these meals the
+following dishes may be served:
+
+Every dish served as a _hors-d'oeuvre_, _calf's_ head and feet, bear
+_hams_, _head-cheese_, _eggs_ cooked in any way, _omelets_, _mutton_
+chops, _veal_ cutlets, fried _fish_, ripe _fruit_, boned _birds_, _ham_,
+cold _meat_ of any kind, _oysters_, _pate de foies gras_, _salads_ of
+chicken, or any other birds, and of lobster, _sandwiches_, _sardines_,
+fried _vegetables_, _sweet dishes_, and _pastry_.
+
+_Late Supper_.--This being the last meal taken before retiring, persons
+should be careful about what they eat then, especially those who take no
+bodily exercise, or retire soon after it. Some are not aware that their
+rest depends nearly, if not entirely, on what they have eaten at supper.
+The lighter the food the better; such as fried _fish_, _sardines_, _lait
+de poule_, _bavaroise_, well-ripened _fruit_, a _cream_, a little _iced
+fruit_, _fruit-jelly_, _prunes_, etc.
+
+The gastronomical or hygienic rule to be observed in eating, it will be
+seen, is therefore, after the soup and _hors-d'oeuvres_, to commence
+with the heaviest or most substantial dishes, and to finish with the
+lightest. The rule is just the opposite for wines. Here we must commence
+with the lightest, and end with those which contain the most alcohol,
+and are consequently the heaviest.
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX.
+
+  Allumettes, 413.
+  Almonds, 44.
+  Anchovy, 144.
+    butter, 99.
+    cake, 428.
+    salad, 353.
+  Anise, 16.
+  Apples, au beurre, 378.
+    charlotte, 379.
+    dumplings, 431.
+    flambantes, 378.
+    fried, 400.
+    meringuees, 379.
+    pie, 440.
+    syrup, 380.
+    in compote, or stewed, 385.
+     " fritters, 379.
+     " jelly, 4.
+    pine-apple, 380.
+    with rice, 374.
+      "  sweetmeats, 380.
+  Apricots, 16.
+    in compote, 385.
+     " jelly 406.
+     " salad, 352.
+    iced, 397.
+  Artichokes, 306.
+    fried, 306.
+    (Jerusalem), 307.
+  Asparagus, 307.
+    fried, 308.
+    en petits pois, 307.
+    in omelet, 308.
+    with cream, 308.
+      "  vinaigrette, 308.
+      "  white sauce, 308.
+  Aspic, 275.
+
+  Baba, 449.
+  Bacon, 16.
+  Bain-marie, 16.
+  Bakepans, 17.
+  Baking, 9.
+  Bananas, 393.
+  Barley, 76.
+    lemonade, 44.
+    sugar, 45.
+  Bass, 132, 135, 136.
+  Batter, 30.
+  Bavaroise, 45.
+  Bay-leaf, 17.
+  Beans (string), 308.
+    au jus, 309.
+    maitre d'hotel, 309.
+    in salad, 309, 350.
+    with onions, 309.
+    pickled, 353.
+    (Lima), 309.
+    au jus, 310.
+    (dry), 310.
+    maitre d'hotel, 310.
+    with ham, 311.
+      "  mutton, 311.
+      "  salt pork, 310.
+    in puree, 120.
+    stewed, 311.
+  Bear-meat, 277.
+    ham, 277.
+  Beef, 162.
+    a la mode, 163.
+    baked, 167.
+    in daube, 164.
+    roasted, 165.
+    with garnitures, 166.
+    decorated, 167.
+    stewed, 164.
+    fillet larded, 168.
+      with mushrooms, 169.
+        "  truffles, 169.
+        "  potatoes, 169.
+        "  tomatoes, 169.
+        "  quenelles, 169.
+        "  Madeira sauce, etc., 169.
+      en bellevue, 170.
+    ribs, 170.
+      with mushrooms, etc., 171.
+    steaks, 171.
+      broiled, 172.
+    steaks with potatoes, 172.
+          "     water-cress, etc., 173.
+          "     mushrooms, 173.
+          "     truffles, 173.
+      sautes, 171.
+      fancy, 173.
+    tenderloin, 168.
+    low cuts, 171.
+    boiled or cold, 174.
+      hashed, 177.
+      in croquettes, 175.
+      "  miroton, 176.
+      "  salad, 177.
+      au gratin, 176.
+      with vegetables, etc., 175.
+    corned, 177.
+    en bellevue, 178.
+    brain, 179.
+    heart, 179.
+    kidneys, 180.
+    liver, 180.
+    tail, 181.
+    tongue, 178.
+      (smoked), 183.
+      with sauces, 183.
+      in hors-d'oeuvre, 183.
+      "  bellevue, 183.
+    tripe, 181.
+      broiled, 182.
+      poulette, 182.
+      stewed, 182.
+      pickled, 183.
+  Beets, 17.
+    boiled, 17.
+    pickled, 353.
+    stewed, 312.
+    in salad, 350.
+  Beignets souffles, 422.
+  Berries, iced, 398.
+    preserved, 402.
+    with milk, 401.
+      "  liquor, 401.
+    in salad, 352.
+  Bichof, 45.
+  Bills of fare, 459.
+  Birds, 278, 279.
+    preserved, 46.
+  Biscottes, 448.
+  Biscuits, 426.
+    almonds, 426.
+    chocolate, 426.
+    glazed, 426.
+    with filberts, etc., 427.
+    vanilla, 426.
+    of Rheims, 427.
+  Blackberries, 352.
+    in compote, 386.
+    "  jelly, 406.
+    preserved, 402.
+  Black-birds, 278.
+  Black-fish, 132, 135.
+  Blanc-mange, 380.
+  Blanc-manger, 381.
+  Blanch, 305.
+  Blanquette, 205.
+  Blue-fish, 132, 135.
+  Bobolink, 278.
+  Boiling, 9.
+  Boned turkey, 260.
+  Border of paste, 244.
+        "   rice, 373.
+  Bouchees, 420.
+    of fish, 421.
+    "  birds, 421.
+    "  oysters, 421.
+    "  lobster, etc., 421.
+  Boulettes, 117.
+  Bouquet, 461.
+  Brain, 214.
+  Braising, 18.
+  Bread, 454-458.
+    crumbs, 46.
+    farce, 113.
+    pudding, 445.
+  Breakfast, 453.
+  Brioche, 449.
+  Broccoli, 318.
+  Broiling, 10.
+  Broth, 61-70.
+  Brown-butter, 100.
+  Buffalo, 277.
+    steaks, 277.
+  Buckwheat cakes, 431.
+  Bunch of seasonings, 18.
+  Burnt sugar, 47.
+  Butter, 409.
+    anchovy, 99.
+    lobster, etc., 118, 119.
+    melted, 119.
+    scented, 119.
+  Buttered paper, 18.
+
+  Cabbage, 313.
+    a la creme, 313.
+    with apples, 313.
+     "   bacon, 313.
+    garniture, 113.
+    in salad, 348.
+    "  sour-krout, 315.
+    stewed, 313.
+    stuffed, 314.
+    pickled, 353.
+    red, 314.
+  Cabinet pudding, 445.
+  Cafe au lait, 51.
+    noir, 51.
+  Cake, 428.
+    almond, 428.
+    apple, 429.
+    corn, 431.
+    cream, 423.
+    currant, 428.
+    filbert, 428.
+    fourre, 428.
+    hazel-nut, etc., 428.
+    hard, 429.
+    heavy, 429.
+    Madeleine, 452.
+    Milanais, 429.
+    Nantais, 428.
+    Pithiviers, 415.
+    plum, 433.
+    pound, 432.
+    rice, 373.
+    Saint Honore, 423.
+    Savarin, 430.
+    short, 432.
+    sponge, 431.
+    tea, 433.
+    Viennois, 433.
+    with jelly, 433.
+  Calf's brain, 214.
+    ears, 215.
+    feet, 215.
+      " jelly, 53.
+    head, 216, 217.
+      en tortue, 218.
+      soup, 86.
+    heart, 218.
+    kidneys, 219.
+    lights, 220.
+    liver, 221.
+    pluck, 222.
+    sweetbreads, 223.
+      in vol-au-vent, 419.
+    tail, 223.
+    tongue, 223.
+  Candied fruit, 403.
+  Capon, 256.
+  Caramel, 47.
+  Cardoon, 316.
+  Carp, 132, 135.
+  Carrots, 316.
+    Bechamel, 316.
+    fines herbes, 317.
+    glazed, 317.
+    au jus, 317.
+    poulette, 317.
+    stewed, 317.
+    with sugar, 318.
+    in puree, 122.
+     " soup, 77.
+  Catsup, 18.
+    mushroom, 327.
+    tomato, 354.
+  Cauliflowers, 318.
+    Bechamel, 318.
+    gratin, 318.
+    white sauce, 319.
+    fried, 319.
+    stewed, 319.
+    in salad, 320.
+    with cream, etc., 319.
+    pickled, 353.
+  Caviare, 18.
+  Celery, 320.
+    fried, 320.
+    in salad, 348, 349.
+     " puree, 122.
+  Cervelas, 19.
+  Charlotte of fruit, 383.
+    Francaise, 382.
+    Polonaise, 382.
+    Russe, 381.
+    Italienne, 382.
+    a la Chantilly, 382.
+    apple, 379.
+  Chartreuse, 284.
+  Cheese, 19.
+    a la creme, 383.
+  Cherries in brandy, 406.
+    compote, 386.
+    pie, 440.
+    glazed, 396.
+    preserved, 402.
+  Chervil, 19.
+  Chestnuts, 350.
+    candied, 405.
+    glazed, 396.
+    in compote, 387.
+     " puree, 121.
+  Chiccory, 320.
+    in salad, 348.
+    (wild), 348.
+  Chicken, 238.
+    to truss, etc., 238-241.
+    baked, 251.
+    boiled, 241.
+    boned, 242.
+    broiled, 242.
+    with sauce, 242, 243.
+    croquettes, 243.
+    fricassee, 244.
+    supreme, 246, 247.
+    financiere, 246.
+    francaise, etc., 246.
+    Marengo, etc., 248.
+    roasted, 249.
+    with sauce, 250.
+      "  garniture, 250.
+    decorated, 250, 251.
+    saute, 251, 252.
+    with Champagne, 252.
+    stewed, 253.
+    stuffed, 253, 254.
+    in pie,
+     " puree, 119.
+    vol-au-vent, 419.
+    cold, 254.
+      in salad, 256.
+    preserved, 46.
+    broth, 65.
+  Choca, 52.
+  Chocolate, 51.
+    iced, 398.
+  Choux, 423.
+  Chowder, 159.
+  Clams, 159.
+    baked, 161.
+    chowder, 159.
+    soup, 92.
+  Cochineal, 19.
+  Cocoa, 52.
+  Cocoa-nut, 352.
+  Cod-fish, 136.
+    stuffed, 131.
+    (salt), 145, 146.
+  Coffee, 47.
+    iced, 398.
+  Colander, 19.
+  Cold weather, 22.
+  Colored beans, 310.
+  Compotes, 384.
+    apples, 385.
+    cherries, 386.
+    oranges, 386.
+    berries, 386.
+    peaches, etc., 385.
+    syrup, 384.
+  Contents, 7.
+  Cooking, 9.
+  Corn (sweet), 321.
+   cake, 431.
+  Corn-salad, 348.
+  Corn-starch, 75.
+  Consomme, 64.
+  Caulis of fish, 101.
+    veal, 101.
+  Courses, 460.
+  Crabs, 153.
+  Cranberries, 387.
+    compote, 387.
+    pie, 441.
+  Craw-fish, 153.
+  Cream, 387.
+    sweet, 392.
+    cheese, 383.
+    au cafe, 388.
+    Chantilly, 392.
+    caramel, 389.
+    chocolate, 389.
+    cuite, 390.
+    essence, 390.
+    frangipane, 390.
+    ice, 392.
+    legere, 391.
+    lemon, 387.
+    orange 390.
+    patissiere, 391.
+    renversee, 391.
+    tea, 390.
+    vanilla, 390.
+    whipped, 392.
+    cakes, 423.
+  Croque en bouche, 394.
+  Croquettes of veal, etc., 206.
+    chicken, 243.
+    potato, 338.
+    rice, 373.
+  Croquignolles, 450.
+  Croutons, 114.
+  Crullers, 431.
+  Crumbs, 30, 46.
+    white, 46.
+  Cucumbers, 321.
+    in hors-d'oeuvre, 322.
+    pickled, 355.
+    in salad, 350.
+    stuffed, 322.
+  Currants,
+    compote, 386.
+    glazed, 397.
+    iced, 398.
+    jelly, 406.
+    salad, 352.
+    (dried), 57.
+  Curry, 20.
+  Custard, 393.
+
+  Dandelion, 323.
+    in salad, 348.
+  Dessert, 463.
+  Dining-room, 20.
+  Dinner, 459.
+    directions, 16.
+  Dish, 20.
+  Dishes (order of), 461.
+  Divers receipts, 44.
+  Doughnuts, 432.
+  Draining, 20.
+  Drinking, 21.
+  Duck, 264.
+    apple sauce, 265.
+    cranberry sauce, 265.
+    baked, 265.
+    roasted, 265.
+    with turnips, 267.
+      "  currant-jelly, 265.
+      "  garniture, 265.
+    saute, 266.
+    with peas, etc., 266.
+    stuffed, 268.
+    boned, 268.
+    preserved, 46.
+    cold in salmis, 268.
+        "   croquettes, 268.
+        "   salad, 268.
+  Duckling, 264.
+  Dust, to, 21.
+
+  Ears, 215.
+  Eclairs, 424.
+    au cafe, 425.
+     " chocolate, 424.
+     " tea, 425.
+     " vanilla, 425.
+     " currants, 425.
+     " strawberries, 425.
+     " jellies, 426.
+     " essence, 425.
+  Economy, 23.
+  Eels, 136.
+    broiled, 136.
+    fried, 137.
+    roasted, 137.
+    in matelote, 137.
+    stuffed, 137.
+    in vol-au-vent, 419.
+  Eggs, 356.
+    beater, 24.
+    crumbs to fry, 30.
+    whites (to beat), 363.
+    Bechamel, 357.
+    boiled, 359.
+    fried, 360.
+    au gratin, 358.
+    a la tripe, 362.
+     "   neige, 362.
+    poached, 362.
+    scrambled, 360.
+    stuffed, 358.
+    Lyonnaise, 357.
+    sur le plat, etc., 360.
+    in matelote, 361.
+    fricassee, 357.
+    with vegetables, 359, 361.
+      "  cheese, 357, 358.
+      "  ham, etc., 359.
+      "  fines herbes, 357.
+      "  sauces, 358.
+    garniture, 115.
+    in salad, 350.
+    Egg-plant, 323.
+    Endive, 320.
+    in salad, 348.
+  Entrees, 462.
+  Entremets, 463.
+  Epigramme, 199.
+  Errors in cooking, 24.
+  Escalops, 158, 206.
+  Essence of beef, 52.
+    spinach, 52.
+
+  Fanchonnettes, 416.
+  Fans, 416.
+  Farces, 113.
+    bread, 113.
+    cabbage, 113.
+    combs, 113.
+    croutons, 114.
+    duxelle, 114.
+    egg, 115.
+    financiere, 115.
+    liver, 115.
+    Macedoine, 115.
+    mushroom, 116.
+    onion, 116.
+    quenelles, 116.
+    salpicon, 117.
+    truffles, 117.
+  Fat (chicken, etc.), 29.
+    to clarify, 29.
+    for frying, 29.
+  Fecula, 76.
+  Fennel, 25.
+  Feuilletes, 413.
+    a la Conde, 414.
+  Figs, 25.
+  Fillet, 168.
+  Fines herbes, 25.
+  Fish, 125.
+    to keep, 33.
+    quality, 35.
+    to select, 125.
+     " clean for boiling, 125.
+     "      "    baking, etc., 125.
+    same species, 125.
+    to know when cooked enough, 126.
+     " improve, 126.
+     " bone, 126.
+     " skin, 126.
+     " decorate, 127.
+    kettle, 127.
+    baked, 128.
+    balls, 128.
+    boiled, 129.
+    broiled, 129.
+    cold, 144.
+    fried, 129.
+    a la Orly, 130.
+    roasted, 130.
+    saute, 131.
+    stewed, 131.
+    stuffed, 131.
+    a la creme, 136.
+    anchovy butter, 129.
+       "    sauce, 135, 136.
+    Bechamel, 136.
+    Bordelaise, 143.
+    Bretonne, 135.
+    caper-sauce, 130, 135, 136.
+    court-bouillon, 135.
+    cream-sauce, 136.
+    egg-sauce, 136.
+    fines-herbes sauce, 136.
+    genevoise-sauce, 135.
+    genoise-sauce, 135.
+    gratin-sauce, 132, 135.
+    Hollandaise sauce, 130, 135, 136.
+    Italienne sauce, 135.
+    Maitre d'hotel sauce, 129, 136.
+    matelote sauce, 132, 135.
+    Mayonnaise, 130.
+    piquante, 130.
+    poivrade, 130.
+    remolade, 130.
+    Tartar, 135.
+    tomato, 130, 135, 136.
+    vinaigrette, 134-136.
+    bass, 130, 132.
+    black-fish, 130, 132.
+    blue-fish, 130, 132.
+    cod, 136.
+     " (salt), 145.
+    eels, 132, 136.
+    flounder, 130, 137.
+    haddock, 136.
+    halibut, 136.
+    herring, 130.
+     " (salt), 147.
+    mackerel, 135.
+     "   (salt), 148.
+    pike, 130, 132, 139.
+    porgy, 130, 132.
+    ray, 139.
+    salmon, 140.
+    shad, 142.
+    sheep's-head, 142.
+    skate, 139.
+    trout, 132, 139.
+    turbot, 143, 144.
+    white-fish, 130.
+    clams, 159.
+    lobster, 149, 153.
+    oysters, 155.
+    floating island, 362.
+      Allemande sauce, 137.
+      baked, 137.
+      Normande, 137.
+       "   another, 138.
+      boned and fried, 139.
+  Flour, 25.
+  Foies-gras, 25.
+  Fondue, 362.
+  Food, 22.
+  Fox, 297.
+  Frangipane, 390.
+  Fricandeau, 211.
+  Fritters, 393.
+  Frogs, 149.
+  Fromage a la creme, 383.
+  Fruit, 406.
+    corer, 26.
+    candied, 403.
+    glazed, 394.
+    iced, 397.
+    for dessert, 401.
+    preserved, 353.
+     "   in liquor, 405.
+  Frying, 11.
+    batter for, 30.
+    fat     " 29.
+    lard    " 28.
+    directions for, 11.
+    eggs and crumbs for, 30.
+
+  Galantine, 26.
+  Galette, 416, 450.
+    du gymnase, 416.
+  Game, 276.
+    pie, 434.
+  Garlic, 25.
+  Garnish, 113.
+  Garnishing, 113.
+  Garnitures, 113.
+  Genoise, 450.
+    with almonds, etc., 451.
+     "   chocolate, etc., 451.
+  Gibelotte, 293.
+  Giblets, 273.
+  Glazing, 26.
+  Godiveau, 117.
+  Goose, 268.
+    apple-sauce, etc., 268.
+  Gooseberries in jelly, 386.
+  Gosling, 268.
+  Grapes, 402.
+    in jelly, 406.
+    glazed, 397.
+  Gravy of meat, 55.
+    fish, 101.
+  Grouse, 280.
+  Guinea-fowl, 268.
+
+  Haddock, 136.
+  Halibut, 136.
+  Ham, 228.
+    boiled, 228.
+    in hors-d'oeuvre, 228.
+    with puree, 229.
+    decorated, 230.
+    roasted, 229.
+    with sauces, 230, 231.
+  Hard cake, 429.
+  Hare, 280-282.
+  Hazel-nut butter, 119.
+  Head-cheese, 234.
+  Herb broth, 91.
+  Herring, 130.
+    salt, 147.
+    red, 148.
+  Highholders, 279.
+  Hominy, 324.
+  Hors-d'oeuvres, 462.
+  Horse-radish, 462.
+  Hot weather, 21.
+
+  Ice-cream, 392.
+  Iced fruit, 397.
+  Icing, 53.
+  Ignorance in cooking, 24.
+  Indigestion, 26.
+  Isinglass, 26.
+  Italian pastes, 26.
+
+  Jam, 384.
+  Jellies, 53, 398.
+    sweet or wine, 398.
+    Macedoine, 399.
+    cold, 399.
+    meat, 53.
+    broth, 53.
+    chicken, 53.
+    turkey, 53.
+    calf's-foot, 53.
+    fruit, 406.
+  Jelly-bag, 27.
+  Juice or jus, 55.
+  Julienne, 73, 74.
+
+  Kid, 201.
+  Kitchen utensils, 27.
+  Kisses, 452.
+
+  Lady's-fingers, 427.
+  Lait de poule, 28.
+  Lamb, 198.
+    epigramme, 199.
+    fore-quarter, 198.
+    hind-quarter, 199.
+    entire, 200.
+    cold, 200.
+    feet, 201.
+    kidneys, 201.
+  Lapwing, 279.
+  Lard, 28.
+  Larding, 31.
+    needle, 31.
+  Leaven, 32.
+  Leeks, 324.
+  Lemon in compote, 386.
+    iced, 398.
+    pie, 441.
+  Lemonade, 44.
+  Lentils, 324.
+    puree, 120.
+    soup, 81.
+  Lettuce, 324.
+    in salad, 348.
+  Lima beans, 309.
+  Liver, 115.
+  Lobster, 149.
+    to boil, 150.
+    bisque, 70.
+    croquettes, 152.
+    butter, 118.
+    fried, 152.
+      another, 152.
+    in bouchees, 420
+     "  vol-au-vent, 419.
+     "  pie, 439.
+     "  salad, 151.
+         another, 151.
+     "  the shell, 150.
+    scalloped, 152.
+  Loin, 213.
+  Lunch, 464.
+
+  Macaroni, 370.
+    croquettes, 372.
+    au gratin, 370.
+    Italienne, 371.
+    Napolitaine, 371.
+    potage, 77.
+  Macaroons, 451.
+    with chocolate, 451.
+  Macedoine jelly, 399.
+    salad, 352.
+    omelet, 369.
+    garniture, 115.
+  Mackerel, 135.
+    salt, 148.
+    Spanish, 135.
+  Madeleines, 452.
+  Marmalades, 401.
+  Matelote, 132-134.
+  Meadow-lark, 279.
+  Meat, 35
+    to cook, 32.
+     " keep, 33.
+    pies, 433.
+    jellies, 53.
+    gravy, 55.
+  Melons, 55.
+    iced, 398.
+    melted butter, 119.
+  Meringues, 452.
+    apple, 379.
+    Chantilly, 453.
+    Swiss, 453.
+  Meuniere, 56.
+  Mince-pie, 441.
+  Mint, 56.
+  Miroton, 176.
+  Mixing, 12.
+  Mock-turtle soup, 86.
+  Motto, 43.
+  Moulds, 34.
+  Muffins, 432.
+  Mulberries, 386, 406.
+  Muscles, 153, 154.
+  Mushrooms, 325, 327.
+    broiled, 326.
+    puree, 123.
+    catsup, 337.
+    garniture, 116.
+  Mustard, 348.
+  Mutton, 184.
+    baked, 185.
+    roasted, 184.
+      decorated, 185.
+      with vegetables, 185.
+    haricot, 186.
+    breast broiled, 186.
+      with sauces, 187.
+      on purees, 187.
+    chops, broiled, 187.
+      with vegetables, 188.
+      in papillotes, 188.
+      with sauces, 188.
+      sautees, etc., 187.
+    leg, 190.
+      boiled, 192.
+      decorated, 191.
+      with vegetables, 190.
+        "  currant-jelly, 190.
+        "  sauces, 190, 191.
+      stewed, 191.
+      cold, 192.
+      baked, 190.
+      roasted, 190.
+      with puree, 190.
+    neck, 187.
+    saddle, 193.
+      baked, 193.
+      roasted, etc., 193.
+    shoulder, 192.
+      boiled, 193.
+      boned, 192.
+      stuffed, 192.
+      on purees, 192.
+      roasted, 192.
+      with sauces, 193.
+    cold, in vinaigrette, 193, 194.
+         "   croquettes, 186.
+    brain, etc., 194.
+
+  Nasturtium, 350.
+  Nougat, 453.
+  Nouilles, 375.
+
+  Oil, 347.
+  Oiled paper, 18.
+  Okra, 88.
+  Olives, 34.
+  Omelet, 363, 364.
+    Celestine, 366.
+    Macedoine, 369.
+    soufflee, 369.
+    aux fines herbes, 366.
+    au naturel, 366.
+    with bacon, 366.
+      "  fruit, 365.
+      "  cheese, 367.
+      "  ham, etc., 368.
+      "  kidneys, 367.
+      "  lobster, 367.
+      "  mushrooms, 367.
+      "  oysters and fish, 370.
+      "  rum, 368.
+      "  sorrel, 367.
+      "  sugar, 367.
+      "  sweetmeats, 370.
+      "  vegetables, 366.
+  Onions, 327.
+    glazed, 328.
+    in puree, 123.
+     " garniture, 116.
+     " salad, 351.
+    pickled, 353.
+  Opossum, 297.
+  Orangeade, 44.
+  Oranges, compote, 386.
+    glazed, 394.
+    iced, 398.
+    preserved, 405.
+    salad, 352.
+    pie, 440.
+  Order of dishes, 461.
+  Osmazome, 34.
+  Otter, 297.
+  Oysters, 155.
+    raw, 155.
+    in bouchees, 421.
+     " patties, 421.
+     " vol-au-vent, 419.
+     " poulette, 158.
+    broiled, 157.
+    fried, 156.
+    roasted, 157.
+    stewed, 158.
+    scalloped, 157.
+    a la Washington, 158.
+    pickled, 158.
+    soup, 90.
+  Oyster-plant, 342.
+
+  Pain perdu, 394.
+  Pains of game, 438.
+  Panade, 56.
+  Pancakes, 431, 454.
+  Pap, 56.
+  Paper, buttered, 18.
+    oiled, 18.
+  Papillotes, 210.
+  Parsley, 35.
+  Parsnip, 328.
+    saute, 328.
+    stewed, 329.
+  Partridge, 282.
+  Paste, 410.
+    puff, 410-413.
+    for meat-pies, 434.
+  Pastry, 408.
+    bag, 36.
+  Pate a choux, 422.
+  Pate, 433.
+    de foies-gras, 25.
+  Patties (bouchees), 420.
+  Peacock, 282.
+  Peaches, baked, 401.
+    in compote, 385.
+     " jelly, 406.
+     " pie, 440.
+     " salad, 352.
+     iced, 397.
+     preserved, 401.
+     candied, 403.
+  Pears, in compote, 386.
+        "   salad, 352.
+    candied, 404.
+    glazed, 396.
+    iced, 397.
+    preserved, 402.
+    syrup, 380.
+  Peas (green), 329.
+    boiled, 329.
+    au jus, 330.
+    with ham, etc., 330.
+      "  sugar, 330.
+    in puree, 121.
+    (canned), 330.
+    (dry), 330.
+    (split), 330.
+    in soup, 80.
+    preserved, 354.
+  Pepper, 35.
+  Perch, 132, 135.
+  Petits fours, 410.
+    pains, 426.
+      au chocolat, etc., 424.
+  Pheasant, 282.
+  Pickerel, 139.
+  Pickled cucumber, 355.
+  Pickles, 353.
+  Pies, 433.
+    decorated, 435.
+    fruit, 440.
+    meat, 437.
+    fish, 439.
+    game, 436.
+    mince, 441.
+    pot, 442.
+  Pig's feet, 232.
+    head, 233.
+    kidneys, 234.
+    (sucking), 235, 236.
+    tongue, 234.
+  Pigeons, 269.
+    baked, 271.
+    broiled, 269.
+    fried, 272.
+    roasted, 270.
+    stewed, 270.
+    stuffed, 270.
+    in chartreuse, 269.
+     " compote, 272.
+     " crapaudine, 273.
+    with vegetables, 269.
+    pie, 436.
+  Pike, 139.
+    genoise sauce, 139.
+    with different sauces, 135, 136.
+    in matelote, 132-134.
+    roasted, 130.
+  Pine-apple, 352.
+    glazed, 397.
+    iced, 398.
+    in compote, 386.
+     " fritters, 393.
+    syrup, 380.
+  Pithiviers, 415.
+  Plover, 279.
+  Plums, 402.
+    candied, 404.
+    glazed, 397.
+    iced, 397.
+    in jelly, 406.
+     " marmalade, 386.
+     " pie, 440.
+  Plum-pudding, 447.
+  Poached eggs, 362.
+  Pommees, 414.
+  Porgy, 132, 135.
+  Pork, 226.
+    chine, 226.
+    cutlets, 227.
+    leg, 228.
+    salt, 231.
+    ham, 228.
+    ears, etc., 232.
+  Porte manteau, 414.
+  Potages, 61.
+    broth for, 62.
+    chicken broth, etc., 65.
+    veal, 68.
+    vegetables, 69.
+    fish, 65.
+    made quickly, 70.
+    bisque of lobster, 70.
+          "   crabs, 72.
+          "   craw-fish, 72.
+    bouillabaisse, 72.
+    consomme, 64.
+    Colbert, 73.
+    fancy, 77.
+    Julienne, 73, 74.
+    a la Brunoise, 74.
+       Monaco, 74.
+       regence, 75.
+       royale, 75.
+    au chasseur, 86.
+    Chinese, 83.
+    printanier, 75.
+    veloute, 75.
+    with arrow-root, 75.
+      "  barley, 76.
+      "  bread, 75.
+      "  corn-starch, 75.
+      "  carrots, 77.
+      "  fecula, 76.
+      "  gruel, 76.
+      "  giblets, 76.
+      "  Indian meal, 76.
+      "  Italian pastes, 78.
+      "  macaroni, 77-79.
+      "  mackerel, 77.
+      "  nouilles, 79.
+      "  potatoes, 79.
+      "  quenelles, 80.
+      "  rice, 80.
+      "  sago, 76.
+      "  semoule, 76.
+      "  tapioca, 76.
+      "  turnips, 80.
+      "  vermicelli, 77.
+    puree Chantilly, 81.
+     " a la Conde, 82.
+       "  " Crecy, 82.
+       "  " francaise, 81.
+       "  " reine, 84-85.
+       " of asparagus, 82.
+       "  " artichokes, 82.
+       "  " beans, 81.
+       "  " cauliflowers, 82.
+       "  " chestnuts, 82.
+       "  " corn 83.
+       "  " lentils, 81.
+       "  " Lima, 81.
+       "  " peas, 80.
+       "  " potatoes, 81.
+       "  " pumpkins, 81.
+       "  " squash, 82.
+       "  " tomatoes, 83, 84.
+       "  " turnips, 82.
+       "  " wheat, 82.
+       "  " fowls, 85.
+    Soup maigre, 85.
+      mock-turtle, 86.
+      sportsman's, 86.
+      turtle, 87.
+      clam, 92.
+      rice, 88.
+      beef and mutton, 86.
+      muscle, 92.
+      okra, 88.
+      ox-cheek, 89.
+       " tail, 89.
+      oyster, 90.
+      pot-au-feu, 61.
+      sheep's-tail, 89.
+      sorrel, 89.
+      with cabbage, 90.
+        "  cauliflower, 91.
+        "  cheese, 91.
+        "  herbs, 91.
+        "  leeks, 92.
+        "  milk, 91.
+        "  onions, 88.
+      Allemande, 92, 93.
+      Indian, 93.
+      Polish, 93.
+      Russian, 94.
+      Spanish, 95, 96.
+  Potatoes, 330.
+    boiled, 331.
+    steamed, 331.
+    Allemande, 332.
+    Anglaise, 332.
+    Barigoule, 332.
+    Bechamel, 332.
+    broiled, 332.
+    duchesse, 339.
+    francaise, 333.
+    fried, 332.
+    Hollandaise, 333.
+    Lyonnaise, 334.
+    Maitre d'hotel, 334.
+    mashed, 335.
+    Parisienne, 332.
+    Polonaise, 335.
+    sautees, 336.
+    soufflees, 336.
+    stuffed, 337.
+    swelled, 333.
+    in balls, 333, 338.
+     " cakes, 338.
+     " croquettes, 338.
+     " matelote, 339.
+     " provencale, 336.
+     " puree, 121.
+    salad, 351.
+    with bacon, 339.
+      "  butter, 339.
+      "  cream, etc., 340.
+    soup, 81.
+    sweet, 340.
+  Pot-au-feu, 61.
+  Poultry, 237.
+  Pound cake, 432.
+  Prairie hen, 282.
+    baked, 282.
+    boned, 288.
+    broiled, 283.
+    preserved, 46.
+    roasted, 286.
+    saute, 287.
+    stewed, 287.
+    with sauces, 287.
+      "  vegetables, 283, 284.
+      "  currant-jelly, 287.
+      "  garnitures, 287.
+      "  mushrooms, 287.
+      "  oranges, 287.
+    hunter-like, 287.
+    larded, 284.
+    in chartreuse, 284
+     " crapaudine, 287.
+     " croquettes, 288.
+     " fricassee, 287.
+     " pie, 436.
+     " puree, 119.
+     " salad, 288.
+     " salmis, 288.
+     " terreen, 438.
+  Prawns, 154.
+  Preface, 3.
+  Preserves of berries, 402.
+    of fruits, 401.
+     " meat, 46.
+     " vegetables, 353.
+  Prunes, 401.
+    glazed, 397.
+    pie, 440.
+  Puddings, 442.
+    bread, 445.
+    cabinet, 445.
+    macaroni, 447.
+    plum, 447.
+    tapioca, etc., 447.
+    vermicelli, 446.
+    sauces, 111.
+  Puff-paste, 410-413.
+  Pumpkins, 340.
+  Punch, 407.
+    Roman, 408, 463.
+  Purees, of fruits,
+         "   vegetables, 120-124.
+         "   meat, 119.
+  Purslain, 340.
+
+  Quail, 288.
+    baked, 288.
+    roasted, 289.
+      vegetables, 290.
+    in chartreuse, 290.
+     " pie, 436.
+    hunter-like, 289.
+    preserved, 46.
+    in grape-vine leaves, 290.
+  Quality of fish, 35.
+    of meat, etc., 35.
+  Quenelles, 117.
+  Quinces, preserved, 402.
+    in marmalade, 387.
+     " jelly, 406.
+
+  Rabbit, 200.
+    baked, 291.
+    larded, 291.
+    roasted, 293.
+    saute, 294.
+    stewed, 294.
+    in chartreuse, 291.
+     " civet, 291.
+     " croquettes, 292.
+     " gibelotte, 293.
+     " Marengo, 293.
+     " pie, 436.
+     " vol-au-vent, 420.
+    with olives, 293.
+      "  peas, 294.
+      "  currant-jelly, 292.
+      "  sauces, 291, 294.
+     sportsman-like, 294.
+     cold, 295.
+  Raccoon, 297.
+  Radishes, 341.
+  Rail, 279.
+  Raisine, 402.
+  Raisins, 57.
+  Raspberries, compote, 386.
+    jelly, 406.
+  Raw materials, 36.
+  Ray, 139.
+    au beurre noir, 140.
+  Red herring, 148.
+  Reed-bird, 279.
+  Releves, 462.
+  Rhubarb, 341.
+    pie, 441.
+  Rice, 372.
+    in border, 373.
+    cake, 373.
+    croquettes, 373.
+    fritters, 374.
+    souffle, 374.
+    soup, 80.
+    water, 375.
+    with fruit, 374.
+  Rice-bird, 279.
+  Rissoles, 416.
+  Roasting, 12.
+  Robins, 279.
+  Rolls, 458.
+  Roman punch, 408.
+  Rots, 463.
+  Roux, 109.
+  Rum cakes, 430.
+
+  Sage, 35.
+  Sago, 76.
+  Saint-Honore, 423.
+  Salads, 347.
+    of greens, 348.
+     " fruits, 352.
+    of poultry, 256.
+     " game, 288.
+     " fish, 352.
+  Salmis, 296.
+  Salmon, 140.
+    broiled, 142.
+    in fricandeau, 140.
+     " Genevoise, 141.
+     " hors-d'oeuvre, 352.
+     " papillotes, 140.
+     " pie, 439.
+     " salad, 141.
+     " scallops, 141.
+    caper-sauce, 136.
+    court bouillon, 140.
+    maitre d'hotel, 140.
+    roasted, 130.
+    salt, 146, 147.
+    smoked, 147.
+  Salpicon, 117.
+  Salsify, 342.
+    Bechamel, etc., 342.
+  Sandwiches, 57.
+  Sardines, 145.
+  Sauce, 97.
+    Allemande, 98.
+    anchovy, 99.
+    apple, 99.
+    Bechamel, 99.
+    blonde, 100.
+    bread, 100.
+    brown, 100.
+    caper, 100.
+    celery, 100.
+    Champagne, 105.
+    Colbert, 100.
+    coulis, 101.
+    cranberry, 99.
+    cream, 102.
+    craw-fish, 105.
+    cucumber, 102.
+    currant, 99.
+    diplomat, 102.
+    egg, 102.
+    Espagnolle 102.
+    essence, 103.
+    fines herbes, 103.
+    fish, 103.
+    Genevoise, 141.
+    Genoise, 103.
+    gravy, 55.
+    Hollandaise, 104.
+    Indian, 104.
+    Italian, 104.
+    juice, 55.
+    lobster, 105.
+    Madeira, 105.
+    maitre d'hotel, 105.
+    matelote, 132, 133.
+    Mayonnaise, 105.
+    muscle, 111.
+    mushroom, 106.
+    oyster, 111.
+    Parisienne, 106.
+    peach, 99.
+    piquante, 106.
+    poivrade, 107.
+    Polonaise, 107.
+    poulette, 107.
+    prawn, 105.
+    princesse, 108.
+    provencale, 108.
+    ravigote, 108.
+    raspberry, 99.
+    remolade, 109.
+    Robert, 108.
+    roux, 109.
+    shallot, 109.
+    shrimp, 105.
+    soubise, 109.
+    supreme, 109.
+    tarragon, 118.
+    Tartar, 106.
+    tomato, 110.
+    truffle, 110.
+    veloute, 110.
+    white, 111.
+    vinaigrette, 110.
+    for blanc mange, 381.
+     "  puddings, 111, 112.
+     "  Savarin, 430.
+  Saucissons, 19.
+  Sausages, 19.
+  Sausage-meat, 57.
+  Sauteing, 13.
+  Savarin, 430.
+  Scallops, 158.
+    on the shell, 159.
+    of salmon, 141.
+     " veal, 206.
+  Scalloped-knife, 36.
+  Seasoning, 14.
+  Semoule, 76.
+  Shad, 142.
+    broiled, 142.
+    a la Chambord, 142.
+    au gratin, 142.
+    in provencale, 142.
+    with sorrel, 142.
+    stuffed, 137.
+    roasted, 130.
+  Shallots, 37.
+  Sheep's brain, 194.
+    feet, 194.
+    kidneys, 196.
+    tongue, 197.
+  Sheep's-head fish, 142, 143.
+  Short-cake, 432.
+  Shrimps, 154.
+  Simmering, 14.
+  Skate, 139.
+  Skewers, 37.
+  Skirret, 342.
+  Skunk, 298.
+  Small birds, 278, 279.
+  Small fish, 126.
+  Smelts, 129.
+  Smoked tongue, 183.
+  Snails, 303.
+  Snipe, 279, 295.
+  Sole, 137.
+  Sorrel, 342.
+    au jus, 343.
+    in puree, 343.
+     " salad, 350.
+     " soup, 89.
+    preserved, 343.
+  Souffles, 400.
+  Soups, 61.
+  Sour-krout, 315.
+  Souse, 58.
+  Spanish mackerel, 135.
+  Sparrow-grass, 307.
+  Spices, 38.
+  Spinach, 343.
+    au beurre, etc., 345.
+     " jus, 344.
+     " sucre, 344.
+    a la creme, 344.
+    essence, 52.
+  Sponge cake, 431.
+  Sportsman's soup, 86.
+  Sprats, 145.
+  Sprouts, 345.
+  Squash, 340.
+  Squirrel, 299.
+  Steaks, 171.
+    turtle, 88.
+  Sterlet, 143.
+  Stewing, 14.
+  Stirring, 39.
+  Straining, 39.
+  Strawberry, glazed, 396.
+    iced, 398.
+    in compote, 386.
+     " fritters, 393.
+     " jelly, 406.
+     " salad, 352.
+     " short-cake, 432.
+  Stuffing of birds, 253.
+    fish, 131.
+  Sturgeon, 140.
+  Succory, 320.
+  Succotash, 321.
+  Sucking-pig, 235.
+    baked, 235.
+    boned, 236.
+    roasted, 235.
+    decorated, 236.
+  Sugar, 39, 376.
+    burnt, 47.
+    cooked, 376.
+    dusted, 21.
+    pulverized, 39.
+    syrup, 376.
+  Sun-fish, 132.
+  Supper, 464.
+  Syrup for compotes, 384.
+    sugar, 376.
+    apple, 380.
+  Sweetbreads, 223.
+  Sweet dishes, 376.
+    potatoes, 340.
+
+  Tapioca, 447.
+  Tarragon, 40.
+  Tarte, 441.
+  Tartelettes, 414.
+  Tasting, 14.
+  Tea, 58.
+    cake, 433.
+    (meal), 464.
+  Tench, 132.
+  Tenderloin, 168.
+  Terrapin, 87.
+  Terreen, 438.
+  Thrush, 279.
+  Thermometer, 410.
+  Thyme, 35.
+  Tin tubes, 40.
+  Toasts, 59.
+  Tomatoes, 345.
+    salad, 351.
+    stuffed, 345.
+    stewed, 345.
+    preserved, 354.
+    catsup, 354.
+  Tongue, 178.
+  Tripe, 181.
+  Trout, 139.
+    genoise sauce, 139.
+    in matelote, 132-134.
+    with sauces, 135, 136.
+  Troutlet, 139.
+  Truffles, 40.
+    garniture, 117.
+  Tunny, 143, 147.
+  Turbot, 143, 144.
+    Bordelaise, 143.
+    in salad, 144.
+     " vol-au-vent, 419.
+     " pie, 439.
+    roasted, 130.
+    cold, 144.
+    in hors-d'oeuvre, 352.
+  Turkey, 257.
+    baked, 258.
+    boiled, 257.
+    boned, 260.
+    preserved, 46.
+    roasted, 258.
+    stewed, 259.
+    stuffed, 259, 260.
+    in croquettes, 264.
+     " pie, 437.
+     " salad, 264.
+    with cranberry-sauce, 259.
+      "  oyster-sauce, 259.
+      "  currant-jelly, 259.
+    cold, 263.
+    caponed, 264.
+  Turnips, 346.
+    Bechamel, etc., 346.
+    glazed, 346.
+    au jus, 346.
+    with sugar, 346.
+  Turtle, 87.
+
+  Vanilla, 41.
+  Veal, 202.
+    baked, 205.
+    blanquette, 205.
+    broiled, 208.
+    broth, 68.
+    croquettes, 206.
+    ragout, 206.
+    roasted, 203.
+    in scallops, 206.
+     " vol-au-vent, 420.
+    with vegetables, 204.
+    decorated, 204.
+    breast, with peas, 207.
+      in matelote, 208.
+      stewed, 207.
+    neck, 206.
+    cold, 214.
+    cutlets, 208.
+      baked, 209.
+      sautees, 209.
+      with sauces, 210.
+        "  garnitures, 209.
+      in papillotes, 210.
+      with mushrooms, 209.
+      en Bellevue, 210.
+    fricandeau, 211.
+      au jus, 211.
+      financiere, 211.
+      with peas, etc., 211.
+    loin, or leg, stewed, 213.
+      baked, 205.
+      roasted, 203.
+      decorated, 204.
+    shoulder, on purees, etc., 212.
+      baked, 212.
+      boned, 212.
+      roasted, 212.
+      stuffed, 212.
+      en Bellevue, 213.
+    brain, etc., 214.
+      pie, 437.
+  Vegetables, 305.
+    spoons, 41.
+  Venison, 299.
+    baked, 300.
+    in civet, 300.
+    cutlets, 300.
+      with sauces, 301.
+    haunch, 301.
+    saddle, with currant-jelly, 302.
+    shoulder, 302.
+      stewed, 302.
+      with truffles, etc., 303.
+    cold, 303.
+  Vermicelli, 77, 446.
+  Vinegar, 347.
+  Vol-au-vent, 417.
+    of fish, 419.
+     " oysters, 419.
+     " chicken, 419.
+     " veal, 420.
+     " game, 420.
+     " fruits, 420.
+     " sweatmeats, 420.
+
+  Waffles, 454.
+  Walnuts, 351.
+  Water, 42.
+  Watercress, 347, 349.
+  Weak-fish, 132.
+  Welsh rarebit, 60.
+  White-fish, 140.
+  White pepper, 35.
+  Whortleberry, 386, 440.
+  Wines, 42.
+  Woodchuck, 297.
+  Woodcock, 279.
+    in pie, 436.
+     " salmis, 296.
+  Woodpecker, 279.
+
+  Yellow-birds, 279.
+
+  Zephyrs, 453.
+
+
+  THE END.
+
+
+
+
+  GASTRONOMY AND HOUSEKEEPING.
+
+       *     *     *     *     *
+
+
+    =Household Hints=: A Book of Home Receipts and Home Suggestions.
+    By Mrs. Emma W. Babcock. Flexible cloth, with illuminated
+    design. 12mo. 60 cents.
+
+Contents: I. Introductory; II. Bread, Tea, and Coffee; III. Meats,
+soups, and Fish; IV. Vegetables, Cereals, and Salads; V. Puddings and
+Pies; VI. Pickles; VII. Cake, Custard, and Candy; VIII. Fruit; IX.
+Miscellaneous Hints; X. Talks upon Various Subjects.
+
+
+    =All Around the House=; or, How to make Homes happy. By Mrs. Henry
+    Ward Beecher. 12mo. Cloth, $1.50.
+
+This volume, as its title implies, consists of papers upon topics
+concerning the ordering and well-being of the household. It contains, in
+addition to a large number of receipts for cooking, and rules for
+marketing, numerous hints for the management of servants and children,
+directions as to furnishing, repairing, cleansing, etc., and information
+on all the innumerable things on which housekeepers need information,
+while, in addition to its usefulness as a guide to practical knowledge
+and economical methods, it is eminently interesting and suggestive, in
+its various essays on home topics, to every one concerned in the welfare
+and happiness of the household.
+
+
+    =Hand-book of Practical Cookery=, for Ladies and Professional
+    Cooks. Containing the whole Science and Art of preparing Human
+    Food. By P. BLOT. 12mo, cloth, $1.75.
+
+
+    =Breakfast, Dinner, and Tea=; viewed Classically, Poetically, and
+    Practically. A new edition. Square 12mo, cloth, $1.50.
+
+
+    =Half-Tints=: Table d'Hote and Drawing-room. 12mo, cloth, 75
+    cents.
+
+
+    =Lessons in Cookery=: Hand-book of the National Training-School
+    for Cookery, South Kensington, London; to which is added the
+    Principles of Diet in Health and Disease, by Thomas K. Chambers,
+    M. D. Edited by Eliza A. Youmans. 12mo, cloth, $1.50.
+
+The novelty and merit of the work are in the method by which it secures
+_successful_ practice. Its lessons, the plainest, easiest, and fullest,
+anywhere to be found, have grown out of a long and painstaking
+experience, in finding out the best plan of teaching beginners and
+ignorant persons how to cook well. They were perfected through the
+stupidities, blunders, mistakes, questionings, and difficulties, of
+hundreds of pupils, of all ages, grades, and capacities, under the
+careful direction of intelligent, practical teachers.
+
+
+    =Hand-book of Dining=; or, Corpulency and Leanness Scientifically
+    Considered. By Brillat Savarin. Translated by L. F. Simpson.
+    12mo, $1.00.
+
+
+    =Social Etiquette of New York=. New and enlarged edition.
+    Containing two additional chapters--"Extended Visits," and
+    "Customs and Costumes at Theatres, Concerts, and Operas"--with
+    the chapter on "Etiquette of Weddings" rewritten in accordance
+    with the latest fashionable usage. 18mo, cloth, gilt, $1.00.
+
+
+    =Hand-book of Household Science=. By Professor E. L. Youmans.
+    12mo, cloth, $1.75.
+
+This work has been prepared to meet a long-acknowledged want in our
+homes and schools. There is a strong and growing demand for that kind of
+knowledge which can be made available in the daily operations of
+familiar life. Various books have been prepared which cross the field of
+domestic science at different points, but this is the first work that
+traverses and occupies the whole ground. Hardly a page can be opened
+that does not convey information interesting and valuable to every
+person who dwells in a house. The work will be found not only of high
+practical utility, but captivating to the student, and unequaled in the
+interest of its recitations.
+
+       *     *     *     *     *
+
+New York: D. APPLETON & CO., 1, 3, & 5 Bond Street.
+
+
+
+
+  BOOKS FOR EVERY HOUSEHOLD.
+
+       *     *     *     *     *
+
+
+    =Cooley's Cyclopaedia of Practical Receipts=, And Collateral
+    Information in the Arts, Manufactures, Professions, and Trades,
+    including Medicine, Pharmacy, and Domestic Economy. Designed as
+    a Comprehensive Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia, and General
+    Book of Reference for the Manufacturer, Tradesman, Amateur, and
+    Heads of Families. _Sixth edition_. Revised and partly rewritten
+    by Richard V. Tuson, Professor of Chemistry and Toxicology in
+    the Royal Veterinary College. Complete in two volumes, 8vo,
+    1,796 pages. With Illustrations. Price, $9.00.
+
+"The great characteristic of this work is its general usefulness. In
+covering such diverse subjects, the very best and most recent research
+seems to have been sought for, and the work is remarkable for
+intelligent industry. This very complete work can, then, be highly
+recommended as fulfilling to the letter what it purports to be--a
+cyclopaedia of practical receipts."--_New York Times_.
+
+"It is a well-edited special work, compiled with excellent judgment for
+special purposes, which are kept constantly in mind. If it is more
+comprehensive than its title suggests, that is only because it is
+impossible to define the limits of its purpose with exactitude, or to
+describe its contents upon a title-page. Illustrations of the text are
+freely used, and the mechanical execution of the work is
+excellent."--_New York Evening Post._
+
+
+  The Chemistry of Common Life.
+
+    By the late Professor James F. W. Johnston. A new edition,
+    revised and enlarged, and brought down to the Present Time, by
+    Arthur Herbert Church, M. A., Oxon., author of "Food: its
+    Sources, Constituents, and Uses." Illustrated with Maps and
+    numerous Engravings on Wood. In one vol., 12mo, 592 pages.
+    Cloth. Price, $2.00.
+
+Summary of Contents.--The Air we Breathe; the Water we Drink; the Soil
+we Cultivate; the Plant we Rear; the Bread we Eat; the Beef we Cook; the
+Beverages we Infuse; the Sweets we Extract; the Liquors we Ferment; the
+Narcotics we Indulge in; the Poisons we Select; the Odors we Enjoy; the
+Smells we Dislike; the Colors we Admire; What we Breathe and Breathe
+for; What, How, and Why we Digest; the Body we Cherish; the Circulation
+of Matter.
+
+In the number and variety of striking illustrations, in the simplicity
+of its style, and in the closeness and cogency of its arguments,
+Professor Johnston's "Chemistry of Common Life" has as yet found no
+equal among the many books of a similar character which its success
+originated, and it steadily maintains its preeminence in the popular
+scientific literature of the day. In preparing this edition for the
+press, the editor had the opportunity of consulting Professor Johnston's
+private and corrected copy of "The Chemistry of Common Life," who had,
+before his death, gleaned very many fresh details, so that he was able
+not only to incorporate with his revision some really valuable matter,
+but to learn the kind of addition which the author contemplated.
+
+       *     *     *     *     *
+
+  _D. APPLETON & CO., Publishers_, 1, 3, & 5 _Bond St., New York_
+
+
+  =Transcriber's Notes:=
+  hyphenation, spelling and grammar have been preserved as in the original
+  Page 28, kept a ong time ==> kept a long time
+  Page 29, to bake game ==> to bake game.
+  Page 47, when proper y made ==> when properly made
+  Page 53, with good beef ==> with good beef.
+  Page 68, stalks of chewil ==> stalks of chervil
+  Page 78, place a ayer ==> place a layer
+  Page 83, when mash gently ==> then mash gently
+  Page 86, but ess nourishing ==> but less nourishing
+  Page 116, fresh mushroons and ==> fresh mushrooms and
+  Page 116, cooked, when add ==> cooked, then add
+  Page 157, excellent dish ==> excellent dish.
+  Page 205, hrow them in ==> throw them in
+  Page 218, with once ounce ==> with one ounce
+  Page 248, cooked, when add ==> cooked, then add
+  Page 253, yellow, when add ==> yellow, then add
+  Page 284, done, when dish ==> done, then dish
+  Page 297, following sauce pound ==> following sauce; pound
+  Page 334, and scolloped all ==> and scalloped all
+  Page 346, fifteen minutes ==> fifteen minutes.
+  Page 361, Procced as for eggs ==> Proceed as for eggs
+  Page 379, by squeezeing it ==> by squeezing it
+  Page 394, an inck thick. ==> an inch thick.
+  Page 400, tea, choco late, etc. ==> tea, chocolate, etc.
+  Page 404, one another; and ==> one an other; and
+  Page 416, with trim mings of ==> with trimmings of
+  Page 418/419, the cen tre, it ==> the centre, it
+  Page 443, atter are blamable ==> latter are blamable
+  Page 460, rots and entremets ==> rots and entremets
+  Page 460, to spend. etc. ==> to spend, etc.
+  Page 461, Hors-d'oeuvres ==> hors-d'oeuvres
+  Page 474, sautees, 336. ==> sautees, 336.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hand-Book of Practical Cookery for
+Ladies and Professional Cooks, by Pierre Blot
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKERY ***
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