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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/33951-0.txt b/33951-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3e09e65 --- /dev/null +++ b/33951-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2870 @@ +Project Gutenberg's The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by Miss Watts + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book + +Author: Miss Watts + +Release Date: October 2, 2010 [EBook #33951] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + +Transcriber’s Note + +Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled +and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. + + + + + THE LADIES’ + KNITTING AND NETTING + BOOK. + + SECOND SERIES. + + + + + THE LADIES’ KNITTING + AND NETTING + BOOK. + + + BY MISS WATTS. + + + SECOND SERIES. + + + Second Edition. + + ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL. + + + LONDON: + JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET, + BELGRAVE SQUARE. + + 1840. + + + + + Lessons given in knitting and netting. + For terms and address, apply to the Publisher. + + + W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + + Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves 1 + Netted ditto 3 + Feather ditto 5 + Plain open Mittens 8 + Another Plain ditto 10 + Annet ditto 11 + Honeycomb ditto 13 + Matrimony ditto 15 + Lambs’-wool ditto ib. + Round Netted ditto 17 + Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top 18 + Feather Mits 20 + Cuffs, Peacock Stitch 21 + Netted Cuffs 22 + Warm ditto 23 + Muffatees 24 + Ditto ib. + Gentlemen’s ditto 25 + Cushion Cover 26 + Sofa Pillow ditto 27 + Striped Cushion ditto ib. + Knitted Mat, with Fringe 28 + Netted Mat 30 + Vase ditto ib. + Table mats 31 + Table ditto, in one piece 32 + Napkin Ring 33 + A Pence Purse, or Jug ib. + Bouquetier. No. 1. 35 + Ditto No. 2. 36 + Tidy Basket 37 + Ladder Stitch Bag 38 + Crossed Stitch ditto 39 + Netted ditto 40 + Fringe ib. + Netted ditto 41 + Scarf ditto ib. + Fringe 42 + Rug ditto ib. + Carriage Rug 43 + Striped Purse 44 + Chequered ditto 45 + Purse in Round Netting ib. + Matrimony--For a Purse 46 + Another ib. + Annet Purse 47 + Honeycomb Purse 48 + Another Honeycomb ib. + Netted Purse 49 + Single Diamond Netting ib. + Treble ditto 50 + Knitted Purse 52 + Stitches for Purses. No. 1. 53 + Ditto. No. 2. ib. + Ditto. No. 3. 54 + Ditto. No. 4. ib. + Ditto. No. 5. 55 + Stitches for Purses. No. 6 56 + Ditto No. 7 57 + Bead Netting ib. + Ditto 58 + Dice Knitting ib. + Open Fan, for a Quilt 60 + Gauffre Fans, for ditto 62 + Ribbed Squares, for ditto 64 + Open work Fan, for ditto 65 + An Open Border 66 + Another Border 67 + A Last Border, for a Quilt 68 + Grecian Border 69 + Diamond Knitting 70 + Border for a Table Cover 71 + Border and Fringe 72 + Scarf for the Throat 73 + Scarf Edge 74 + Scarf 75 + Netted ditto 76 + Porcupine Boa ib. + Leggings 77 + Waistcoat 78 + Knitted ditto 79 + Warm Tippet 80 + Night Cap 82 + Ditto 83 + Lambs’-wool sleeve 84 + Cephaline ib. + Diamond Knitting 85 + Another ditto 87 + Small Feather Pattern 89 + Double Eyelet Knitting ib. + Gouty Shoes 90 + To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting 91 + Double Knitted Soles 92 + Lambs’-wool Boot 93 + Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap 94 + Ditto Hat ib. + Ditto Stockings 95 + Ditto Gaiters 97 + Ditto Spencer ib. + Ditto Stays 99 + Ditto Socks 101 + Netted Curtain 103 + Brioche ib. + A Blanket 105 + Blanket in strips ib. + Netted Lace 106 + Puff Netting 107 + A Cool Night-cap ib. + Suspenders 108 + Parisian Net Knitting 110 + Diamond Knitting 112 + Four Patterns for Doyleys, &c. 113 + Mazaniello Cap 115 + Muff 117 + Ditto 119 + Terms used in Knitting 120 + + + + +THE LADIES’ KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK. + +SECOND SERIES. + + +_Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves._ + + Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool. + +Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit +round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done +about one inch, continue with plain knitting[2-*] until your glove is +long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting +twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it +again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a +needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round +before and after the last increase; continue this until you have +stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except +those for the thumb, on two _other_ needles; divide the stitches for the +thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the +join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted +needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your +needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset; +knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the +gusset: knit plain until the glove is long enough to begin the fingers; +begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as +you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and +21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the +first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset, +these may be decreased or not according to the size required. + + [2-*] If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the glove, or a + pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or more + stitches. + + +_Netted Gloves._ + + The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk + fine. + +Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round, +putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run +the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by +netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next +stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round, +before and after where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for +rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the +stitches for the thumb _round_, when you have done 1 round decrease once +in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is +long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the +end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at +the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5 +rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds +according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16 +stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other +fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of +two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the +_finished_ finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the +gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth. +Run a pattern on the back with flox silk. + + +_Feather Gloves._ + + Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required. + +Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit +round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half +an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton _round the needle_, and +knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the +ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain +and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring +the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by +knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the +centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and +repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches, +which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds +until the glove is long enough to begin to increase for the thumb: +after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a +stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in +the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round, +continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9 +stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing, +knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the +thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, +knit 1 stitch, increase as before. + +When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st +needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a +stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease +twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next +round of the holes of the _pattern_ you will have 17 stitches for the +thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease +twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2, +increase 1. In future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern +down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with +the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be +knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round, +take all the other stitches on 2 _other_ needles, and knit the thumb +round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb +is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before, +take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and +continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd +stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if +you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease +the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle: +continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long enough, begin +the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19; +knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when +you have done this finger, take up 4 stitches for the gusset at the +bottom of the 1st finger,[8-*] 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern. +The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19 +of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of +the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset +stitches. + +When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow +ribbon in the holes. + + [8-*] These stitches may be decreased again or not. + + +_Plain open Mittens._ + + Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No. + 14, and moderately fine silk. + +Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the +ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next +round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following +stitches, complete the round, and net 2 rounds without increase. +Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which +you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches +every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make +the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made _over_ each +other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net +the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together, +if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough +net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round, +taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the +fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of +the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the +mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the +thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can +be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it. + + +_Another plain Mitten._ + + On a smaller mesh than the preceding. + +Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 _rows_ with the silk once +round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with +it once. Now begin to net _rounds_ instead of _rows_, by netting the +last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches, +increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a +stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and +net another round without increase. Increase _outside_ the last +additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional +stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase _within_ the +additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time _within_ the +last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the +stitch _over_ the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding +stitch on the other side of the thumb, net round the thumb (decreasing +to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by +netting 1 round with double silk _twice_, and 3 rounds with single silk +_once_, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the +side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2 +rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and +net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4 +rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done +on rather a finer mesh. + + +_Annet Mittens._ + +Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 _rows_; then net 1 row with the silk twice +round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net +_rounds_ instead of _rows_. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk +passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the +2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of +the 1st, net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the +4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat +these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the +silk twice round the mesh. In the next round, which is like the second, +care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the +last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round +the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2 +stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk +passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1 +round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these +rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2 +stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further +back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting +from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4 +rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side _over_ the last +additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and proceed to make the thumb as +directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net +1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next +round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the +last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the +silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the +alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb. + + +_Honey-comb Mittens._ + + Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches. + +Net 3 _rows_. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows +once round the mesh; then begin netting in _rounds_. 1st round, for +every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch +once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net +the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the +3rd plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate +repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning +the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a +plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued +throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is +given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th, +net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again +2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in +which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more. +Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each +side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds, +and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease +if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with +double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round +twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom +of the thumb, add 1 stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds +of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the +thumb. + + +_Matrimony Mittens._ + +The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last +mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As +this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The +mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches. + + _Note._--It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens, + begin with _rows_ instead of _rounds_, this is to prevent the + necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken + off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is + made on the other. + + +_Lambs’-wool Mittens._ + + This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up. + + Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of + an inch wide. + +Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net +2 rows with lambs’-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd. +Repeat these rows of lambs’-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of +the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same +back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, these +stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net +2 rows of lambs’-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of +silk, 2 rows of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, and 1 of silk. +All the rows of lambs’-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of +silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in +at the top of the first row of silk. + +This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours. + + +_Mitten in Round Netting._ + + Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14. + +Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round +netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice +round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking +care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you +give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2 +stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in +the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the +stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time); +increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each +increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several +rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be +joined together. Join the first and last stitches over the last added +stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit. +When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the +bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the +hand part of the mitten is long enough. + +If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a +round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next +round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh. + + +_Mittens._ + + With a leaf wreath round the top. + + Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required, + for instance brown and blue. + +Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one +round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2 +stitches bringing the silk forward between each, knit 3 stitches, +repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the +brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, +repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds +of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of +blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4 +brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4 +brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue, +4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4 +blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1 +round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same +reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds +decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward, +knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain +round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear; +then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14 +stitches on the right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before +until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as +before and finish with a brown round. + +Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes, +and finish with a brown round. + + +_Feather Mits._ + + These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going + to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambs’-wool + are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half + or a whole skein of wool. + +Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a +plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice; +decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the +centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3 +times; increase 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit +3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern. + + +_Cuffs, Peacock Stitch._ + + Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are + required. + +Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches, +bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward +between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round. +Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull +the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2 +stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat +this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the +purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, +knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 +stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the +thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together, +repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the +cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge. + + +_Netted Cuffs._ + + Four skeins of colored lambs’-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No. + 14, a flat wooden mesh 1/2 an inch wide, and a foundation of 120 + stitches, are required. + +Net 2 rows of colored lambs’-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white +lambs’-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2 +white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number; +net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until +there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored +between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in +every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored. + +Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and +pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the +wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh. + + +_Warm Cuffs._ + + Two needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles; +knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle; +rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2 +rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12 +rows as at first. + +Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together. + + +_Muffatees._ + + Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing +3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is +about six inches long, begin double knitting[24-*] on coarser needles; +when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off; +sew up the part that is in double knitting. + + [24-*] Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip a stitch, + pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat these 2 + stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round. + + +_Muffatees._ + + Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color + may be varied at pleasure. + +Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these +rows, reckoning the cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long +enough cast off and sew it up. + +These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool. + + +_Gentlemen’s Muffatees._ + + Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambs’-wool and 4 of + white. + +Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2 +stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every +row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish +the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up. + +These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the +sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse +lambs’-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on +smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again. + + +_Cushion Cover._ + + This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or + German lambs’-wool, white or colored, according to fancy. + +Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your +4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st +stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd, +the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an +odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next +needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd +stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the +next needle. + +When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square, +knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and +surround it with a cord or fringe. + + +_Sofa Pillow Cover._ + + Four Needles No. 11. + +Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread +twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd +stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd +stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round +with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these +two rounds form the pattern. + +When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard) +cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe. + + +_Striped Cushion Cover._ + +Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch +slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd, +the 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is +the same. + + +_Knitted Mat with Fringe._ + + Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambs’-wool. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by +bringing the wool forward before _every_ stitch every 3rd round, until +you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round, +increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 +round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round +increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round; +purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool +with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you +will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3-1/2 +inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the lengths together and loop +in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the +needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third +finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit +of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the +left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next +round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round, +and cast off. + +Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round +before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1 +round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off. + +Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize +or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to +the edge of the card all round. + + +_Netted Mat._ + + To put between plates. + +This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a 1/4 of an inch +wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24 +rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the +mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie +it tight, (this is the centre). + +Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a +round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a +fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure. + + +_Knitted Vase Mat._ + + Two needles No. 14. + +This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very +pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15; +knit 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a +point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in +the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former +vol.) + + +_Table Mats._ + +These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces. + +Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the +2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the +cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be +repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to +prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit +16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you +knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn, +until you knit 18 and back again; cast off. + +End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3 stitches, increase 1, knit to +within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of +the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to +leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind +and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time, +without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off. + +Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and +surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the +size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side +pieces. + + +_Table Mat._ + + In one piece. + +Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21; +increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches; +increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you have 32 stitches; knit 8 +rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond, +decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The +size can be altered by varying the size of the pins. + + +_Napkin Ring._ + + This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather + fine pins. + +Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit +3 rounds, and cast off rather tight. + + +_A Pence Purse, or Jug._ + + Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambs’-wool of + different colors, are required. + +Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and +forwards, in common knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop +6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third, +(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting +2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2, +rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped +stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until +within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2; +on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this +round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will +find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2 +alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner, +then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain +knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a +stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color, +knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and +knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain round and +3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4 +needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing +1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing +alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3 +rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape; +divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds +without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so, +until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted +needle, and sew down the handle. + + +_Bouquetier._ No. 1. + + You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist. + +Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round +knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for 44 or 48 +rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing +by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3; +and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round +bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each +needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain, +continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round) +until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th +needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib +alternate _rows_, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in +the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same +manner. + + +_Bouquetier._ No. 2. + + Four needles No. 14. + +Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches +alternately for 48 rounds. Then knit and rib alternate _rounds_, +increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until +you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit +backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1 +stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were +rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point. + + +_Tidy Basket._ + + Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4 +stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide +your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing +3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third. +Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3 +rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the +largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain, and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4 +stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle, +until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which +were left on the opposite side of the basket. + +Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and +fasten it to the bottom on the inside. + + +_Ladder Stitch Bag._ + + Two needles No. 12. + +Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately; +and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following +rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12 +rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to +form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the +next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over +the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the +same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern +until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make +the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon +round the top. + + +_Crossed Stitch Bag._ + + Two needles No. 12. + +Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the +needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the +1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the +same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the +needle. + +When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the +sides. + + +_Netted Bag._ + + To hold the ball when knitting. + +These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of +course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are +very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh +should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring, +(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently +long. + + +_Fringe._ + +Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit +2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken +together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with +the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit +the remaining 6 plain; continue these 2 rows until the fringe is the +length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel +the 6 stitches of plain knitting. + + +_Netted Fringe._ + + To go round a bag. + +Net 300 stitches on a mesh 1/2 an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No. +15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row, +putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh. +Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe. +_Cut_ it off of the foundation. + + +_Scarf Fringe._ + + To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk. + +Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 +taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the +silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2 +rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off +6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted. + + +_Fringe._ + +Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and +knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken +together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a +sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the +fringe. + + +_Rug Fringe._ + +Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some +yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two +inches. + +Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of +yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right +hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until +within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is +plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat +these two rows. + + +_Carriage Rug._ + + Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and + some coarse _yarn_ cut into lengths of about two inches. + +With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place +1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side; +knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the +needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end +and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before +you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the +row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the +strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another. +When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm +mat. + + +_Striped Purse._ + + Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide. + +Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in +the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it), +then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of +the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the +mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse +is wide enough. + +N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and +netted in shades of different colors. + + +_Chequered Purse._ + + Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares. + +Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6 +stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the +pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the +rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over +the brown, and the brown over the pink. + + +_Purse in Round Netting._ + + Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide. + +Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch +(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed +under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch. + + +_Matrimony.--For a Purse._ + + Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches. + +Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing +the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them +together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain +netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net +the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it +will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the +pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat +the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch. + + +_Another._ + +Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row, +passing the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,) +net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net +the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches +until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row. + + +_Annet Purse._ + + Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches. + +Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd +row, pull the 1st stitch _through_ the 2nd from the back, net it; pull +the 2nd stitch through the _middle_ of the 1st, (taking care not to +twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th +through the _middle_ of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the +end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain +before beginning the pattern. + + +_Honey-comb Purse._ + +On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd +stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to +half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning +it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the +row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain +before beginning the pattern. + + +_Another Honey-comb._ + +On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round +the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the +1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches +together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to +the end of the row. Next row begin again. + + +_Netted Purse._ + + In two colors. + +Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80 +or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate +stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this +change of color, every row is the same. + + +_Single Diamond Netting._ + + On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a + purse four inches wide. + +Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once +round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on +alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch +once round the mesh,) draw out the mesh, put it in one of the long +stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch; +the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds +until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead +of netting _round_ the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The +1st stitch in the 1st _row_ is once _round_ the mesh, the 2nd twice, the +3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch +has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full +length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch. +When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net +round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round +the purse will be once round the mesh. + + +_Treble Diamond Netting._ + + On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18. + +Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next round by putting the silk twice +round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once +round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed. +Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the +long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net +the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip +them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the +2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end +of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh. +Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1 +stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the +mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the +round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch; +repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st +round, viz.--1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the +silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough +to begin the opening, which should be begun in a round after that in +which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round +it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice +round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of +the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the +mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long +enough, begin to net in _rounds_ instead of _rows_, taking care to make +the diamond stitches match. + + +_Knitted Purse._ + + Four needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring +the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch, +knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken +together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round, +is the same as the 1st. 4th round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the +silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch, +knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all +round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again. + + +_Stitches for Purses._ No. 1. + + Four needles are required. + +Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In +beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,) +knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and +continue the same until the purse is long enough. + + +No. 2. + + With 2 needles. + +Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit +2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat +the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike. + + +No. 3. + + With 2 needles. + +Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk +forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over +the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of +the row. Knit a plain row and begin again. + + +No. 4. + + On 2 needles. + +Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped +stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the +row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the pattern, but in the 3rd +row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the +pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over +the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by +knitting 1 stitch. + +This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of +each. + + +No. 5. + + Two needles. + +Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches +together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch, +rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of +the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when +you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the +last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the +1st row. + + +No. 6. + + Two needles. + +Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2 +stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the +1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last +stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick +up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and +knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after +twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the +thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch, +continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the +1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole +and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to +the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row. + + +No. 7. + +Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted +plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd +row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is +across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next +stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain +knitting. Begin again at the 1st row. + + +_Bead Netting._ + +Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to +where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot +and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and +the next row will fix these in their places. + + +_Bead Netting_, + + With the bead on the knot. + +Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row; +net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close +to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up +to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the +bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to +place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open. + + +_Dice Knitting._ + + For a Purse. + +This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine +needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk. + +Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until +you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd +row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass _that_ silk round the +silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk +knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and +bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in +the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball +of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with +the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with +the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st +forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you +have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread +of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch +with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color, +knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and +continue the same for the rest of the 8 stitches, when you will find 2 +threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring +forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those +of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then +knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the +color again. + +This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles +and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on +both sides it does not require lining. + + +_Open Fan for a Quilt._ + + Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18. + +Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5, +decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left +hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side are +_always_ knitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these +2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a +stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border +stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A +plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease, +purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row. +Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the +border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1, +knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the +slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, +knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these +stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the +rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The +last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until +14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still +decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in +the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last +stitch. + + +_Gauffre Fans for a Quilt._ + +Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row is +_slipped_ throughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches, +counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60, +decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit +58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the +cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, +decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven +times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,[62-*] +purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4, +decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit +1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. +ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1, +slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decrease 1, and knit the 4 last stitches. A +plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. +Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &c. ending the row with +knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, +purl 4, &c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, +bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, slip 2, +decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decreasing 1 stitch in +the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40, +decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and +so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2 +middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the +last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is made +_not_ on that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every +other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting, +decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches, +knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch. + + [62-*] In rows like this always keep the cotton before in slipping + a stitch. + + +_Ribbed Squares._ + + For a Quilt. + +Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch +at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th +row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd, +increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th +row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row, +knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. +Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, +increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, +purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit +4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase +1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, +purl 2, knit 2, &c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit +2, purl 2, &c. Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until +there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay +in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them +together. + + +_Open work Fan._ + + For a Quilt. + +Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is +always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward +slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring +the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over +the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left +hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66, +knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, +slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted, +repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle, +decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit +2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped +stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before, +decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease +1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped +over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton +forward _before_ slipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and +knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows, +decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that the _first_ +slipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole) +until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as +before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the +cotton through the remaining stitch. + + +_An open Border._ + +Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the +1st stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, +pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches +to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then +begin with the first row again. + +A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement. + + +_Another Border._ + +Cast on any even number of stitches. Rib _each_ row with the exception +of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When +you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border +stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2 +stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back +and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row +is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come +to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be +sure that your pattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on +the wrong side, and 4 on the right. + + +_A Last Border._ + +For a Quilt. + + Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton. + +Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second +stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and +3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which +knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you +were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the +right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to +be purled. Begin again at the 1st row. + + +_Grecian Border._ + + Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton. + +Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd +row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row, +the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row, +purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows +are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the 9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and +23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and +31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and +39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl +12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row. + + +_Diamond Knitting._ + + For a Quilt Border. + +Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always +plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, +knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from +the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row, +knit the border stitches, and rib the rest; _every_ back row is the +same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1 +stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches, +decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, +repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue +increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3 +stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the +diamond which you have made by increasing, and increase on each side +before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern +done to see how to proceed. + +Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you +have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease +the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your +greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5. + + +_Border for a Table Cover._ + +Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip +a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a +stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to +knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to +begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in +length, then cast off. + +This border in crimson cotton or German lambs’-wool, is a nice finish to +a dark cloth cover. + + +_Border and Fringe._ + + In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl. + +Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd +color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the +1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2 +stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of +the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the +left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the +same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only +observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd. +After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again. + +When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for +the Fringe. + + +_Scarf for the Throat._ + + It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German Lambs’-wool. + +Cast on 86 stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86 +cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course +of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing +for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and +also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence +the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2 +stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same +until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the +border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round +the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this +to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6, +rib 3, &c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. 5th +row; knit 4, take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 6th row; rib 4, +increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3, +&c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &c. 9th row; knit 8, knit +2 together, rib 3, &c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &c. +11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &c. 12th row; +rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together, +knit 4, rib 3, &c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 15th +row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 16th row; rib 6, +increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second +pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough, +then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to +the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends. + + +_Scarf Edge._ + + Two needles and gold colored flox silk. + +Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken +together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 +taken together, knit 2 stitches. + +A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern. + + +_Scarf._ + + Two needles No. 7. + +Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a +stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib +1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same. + +This scarf takes about 2-1/2 ounces of German lambs’-wool; it requires a +wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends, +which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the +desired color, beginning with the darkest. + + +_Netted Scarf._ + + On a foundation of 54 stitches. + +Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet, +amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue, +amber, and scarlet. + + +_Porcupine Boa._ + + Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool +forward, knit a stitch--this is the centre stitch of the pattern--bring +the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2 +taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the +4 stitches, &c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch +off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continue this for +6 rounds, increasing _before_ and _after_ every centre stitch, and +knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the +next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain +rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2 +together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you +decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this +time. + +Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to +count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you +decrease. + +This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it +with cotton wool and put strings to it. + + +_Leggings._ + + Two ivory needles and rather fine lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2 inches, knitting and +ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and +increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60 +stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you +increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to +match the top. Sew them up. + + +_Waistcoat._ + + Large Size. + +Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows, +cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26 +stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14 +stitches, knit 38 rows. + + The Sleeve. + +Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves +a narrow bit to tack to the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open +under the arm. + + +_Knitted Waistcoat._ + +Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows; +cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows, +cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows, +cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows. + + Sleeves. + +Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9 +rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for +19. + + +_Warm Tippet._ + + Two needles, No. 11. + +Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2 +taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows, +then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions +of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and +knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther +each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer +stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards +receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have +now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6 +stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick +up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward, +slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end +of the row without any more increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches +in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the +increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1 +(instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows, +and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the +first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted +10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the +gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the +end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches +and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2 +stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset +again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the +gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of +stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the +thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip +another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitches +together, bring the thread forward and go on. In the next row, when you +come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3 +stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the +10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole +rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the +cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must +increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased. + + +_Night Cap._ + + With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each +needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam +in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other +round, until you have a sufficient number of stitches for the size of +your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until +your cap is 3/4 of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning, +decreasing where you before increased. + + +_Night Cap._ + + French Pattern. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4, +next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre +stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam +(leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle. +When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round +until the cap is 3/4 of a yard long: make the end like the beginning. + + +_Lambs’-wool Sleeve._ + +Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the +sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve +is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser +lambs’-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and +finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half. + + +_Cephaline._ + + To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms. + + A mesh 3/4 of an inch wide and one 1/4 that width are required. It + may be netted in flox silk or fine lambs’-wool. + +Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are +the middle rows). Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted +with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine +mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh +2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60, +and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a +narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on +the other side, beginning at the first narrow row. + +Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the +Cephaline is made. + + +_Diamond Knitting._ + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the +cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it, +knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton +forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain +round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, +pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken +together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11 +stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton +forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted +stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, +repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton +forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted +one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat +these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the +cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted +stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2 +together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, +slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat +these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another +round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond, +and decrease the other half diamond to a point. + + +_Another Diamond Knitting._ + + Four needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the +thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, +knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken +together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, +knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull +the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this +all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 +and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, +bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain +round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the +slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward +knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together, +bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 +stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this +all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3 +stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the +slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward +and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see +you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and +you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle +stitches of the larger diamond are _always_ plain knitting, and the 1st +decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond. + + +_Small Feather Pattern._ + + As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty + for a purse or mitten. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the +thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, +thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice, +knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice, +increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds. +Repeat these 4 rounds. + + +_Double Eyelet Knitting._ + + Four needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the +thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together, +knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1 stitch, repeat these 7 +stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds. + + +_Gouty Shoes._ + +For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1 +stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20 +stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12 +rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4 +times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row; +twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch +in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease +3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row +until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off. + +This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles +No. 16. + +For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, with needles No. 8, and coarse +lambs’-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25 +stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then +2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit +12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter. +Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards, +to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the +sole on the wrong side. + + +_To increase and decrease in Double Knitting._ + +In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3 +rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the +1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd +row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you +come to the increase, knit 1 stitch, and pass the next upon another +needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from +the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that +you cannot increase less than two stitches at once. + +Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit +2 _knitting_ stitches together passing the farther one over the +intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches +(instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2 _knitting_ stitches will come together, +knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at +once. + + +_Double Knitted Soles._ + + To wear in the shoes. + +Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches +in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24 +stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2 stitches every 2 rows until you +have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20 +stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12 +stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the +remaining 4 stitches. + + +_Lambs’-wool Boot._ + + Four ivory needles and coarse lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2 +ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured +lambs’-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease +in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows; +knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color, +1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawing the lambs’-wool through +2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom. + + +_Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap._ + +Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in +double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in +depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3 +turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the +crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of +double knitting, and run a ribbon through it. + + +_Baby’s Hat._ + + Seven needles No. 16, are required. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round +increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round +increasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase. +Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1 +round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always +increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round, +until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds +alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round +increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit +and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the +1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13 +welts, and cast off. + +Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape. + + +_Baby’s Stockings._ + + With needles No. 15, and fine lambs’-wool. + +Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3 +rows increasing at the end of each. After this increase, at the end of +every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take +off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning +at the _sloping_ side) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, +cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing. +When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10 +stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches, +increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but +two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain +rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches. +Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit +every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When +knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie +it round the ankle. + + +_Baby’s Gaiters._ + +Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the +end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row. +Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit +18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a +third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, +cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased +to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches +from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the +side and knit the _legging_ as in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind +the foot with white ribbon. + + +_Baby’s Spencer._ + + Needles No. 14. + +Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In +the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in the +middle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches +together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row +afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the +8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of +the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14 +stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make +the other to match it. + +The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th +row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six +times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of +the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a +stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are) +until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need +not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other +end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing +until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitches backwards and +forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at +the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down +the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the +buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make +holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off. + +The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it +wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches +alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows. + + +_Baby’s Stays._ + + To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambs’-wool. Needles No. 15. + +Cast on 204 stitches. The 6 _first_ and _last_ stitches are knitted +every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6. +Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the +last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches, and, +instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit +and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row +(consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row. +Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast +off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit +the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 +stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the +rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the +12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with +the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and +rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest. +Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only +are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and +knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit +and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and +knit the rest. Rib and knit 12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches +backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of +the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on +strings. + + +_Baby’s Sock._ + + To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14, + and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambs’-wool, +knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and +12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the +piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles. +Knit 6 _turns_, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have +only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting +1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel +in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you +have 60 stitches left. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle, divide the +stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two +rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56 +round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit one _round_ and +cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe. + +For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14 +stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding). +Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and +the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side +stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle +every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2 +rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up +a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34 +stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern +as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit +1 plain round adding a stitch after every third stitch, making in all +64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches +alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in +front of the shoe. + + +_Netted Curtain._ + + For a French Bed. + +With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the +curtain. + + +_Moorish Brioche or Cushion._ + + Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that + contrast well. Two needles, No. 12. + +Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by +this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a +stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 2nd row: +bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with +the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop +and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6 +more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten +on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring +the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the +row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the +wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you +slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit +8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these +divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net +a fringe with double coarse lambs’-wool to the narrow part, and run in a +string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round +cushion, and cover it with the knitting. + + +_A Blanket._ + + Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse. + +Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with +the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it, +knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you +will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only +difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it +together. + +These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty. + + +_Blanket in strips._ + + Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern. + +Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows common knitting; then begin double +knitting,[106-*] knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border, +knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again; +continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty +if the squares are done in different colors. + + [106-*] See Contents--Double Knitting. For a blanket it is better + to put the wool twice round the needle in the knitted stitches. + + +_Netted Lace._ + + Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the + number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for. + 216 will make about a yard. + +Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh 1/4 of an inch wide, or a trifle wider, +net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the +next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the +row. Take the small mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a +single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh. + + +_Puff Netting._ + + Very pretty for caps. + +Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9 +stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net +3 rows, 1 stitch in _every_ stitch. In the next row (which will make the +5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the +following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again. + + +_A Cool Night-cap._ + + Puff netting. + + The mesh to be 1/4 inch wide. + +Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the +4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this +all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch in _every_ stitch. In the +next round take the 5 plain stitches as _one_, net 5 stitches, repeat +all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after +the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the +cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and +tie the top string tight. + + +_Suspenders._ + + Two needles No. 16. + +Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the +thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on +another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is +long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knit up the +other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the +thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double +knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the +needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2, +which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch +first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th +and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch. +Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were +going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right +hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled. +Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double +knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish +in a point. + +These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the +first series. + + +_Parisian Net Knitting._ + + This pattern is very pretty for a foot-muff, blanket, or sofa + guard. + + Take German lambs’-wool of two colors that contrast well; pink and + white form a pretty mixture. + +Cast on an even number of stitches, and with the white wool knit several +rows before beginning the pattern. 1st row; fasten on the pink wool +forward, knit the first stitch with the white wool, pass the pink round +the needle bringing it forward again, and purl the next stitch with it; +pass the purled stitch on to the left-hand needle and knit it with the +white wool, knit 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round the +needle, purl 1 stitch and pass it back on to the left-hand needle, knit +it and the following stitch with the white wool; continue the same to +the end of the row. 2nd row; purl the white stitches with the white +wool, and slip the pink loops, taking care not to twist them or change +the side which is forward. 3rd row; knit the white stitches with the +white wool and slip the pink loops. 4th row; purl the 1st stitch with +the white wool, turn the pink wool (which is now behind) round the +needle, and with it knit the pink loop and following white stitch taken +together, slip the stitch on to the left hand needle and purl it with +the white wool, purl 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round +the needle, and knit with it the pink loop and following stitch taken +together, slip it on to the other needle and purl it with the white +wool, repeat the same to the end. 5th row; knit all the white stitches +with the white wool and slip the pink loops. 6th row; purl the white +stitches with the white wool and slip the pink. 7th row; knit 1 stitch +with the white wool, pass the pink wool (which is forward) round the +needle and with it purl the pink loop and following white stitch taken +together, observing to take the pink loop by the under side, slip the +stitch on to the left hand needle and knit it and the following white +stitch with the white wool; repeat the same to the end of the row: as +the 7th row takes the place of the 1st, continue with the 2nd row. + + +_Diamond Knitting._ + +Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. 1st round: knit 12 stitches, knit +2 taken together, and bring the cotton forward; repeat the same. 2nd +round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 9, knit 2 taken together and +bring the cotton forward, knit 1 and bring the cotton forward again. 3rd +round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, +bring the cotton forward, knit 3, and bring the cotton forward again. +4th round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 5, knit 2 taken +together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, and bring the cotton forward +again. 5th round: knit 2 taken together, knit 3, knit 2 taken together, +bring the cotton forward, knit 7, bring the cotton forward. 6th round: +knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring +the cotton forward, knit 9, bring the cotton forward. 7th round: knit 3 +taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, bring the cotton +forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 4, bring the cotton forward. Begin +again. + + +_Four Patterns, for D’Oyleys, Toilet Covers, Baby’s Quilts, or Basket +Napkins._ + + Two needles, No. 22 or 23, and very fine knitting cotton. + + +No. 1. + +Cast on a number of stitches that will divide into an even number of +threes. _Knit and rib_ 3 stitches alternately for 3 rounds. In the next +3 rounds, _rib and knit_ 3 stitches alternately. + + +No. 2. + +Cast on a number of stitches as for the last pattern. Knit and rib 3 +stitches alternately for 2 rows. The following rows begin so as to bring +the first ribbed stitch over the last knitted: this is to make the +ribbed and knitted ridges go in diagonal stripes. + + +No. 3. + +Cast on a number of stitches that will divide by 10. Knit 1 stitch, rib +9, repeat the same to the end of the row. 2nd row: rib 1 stitch, knit 7, +rib 2. 3rd row: knit 3, rib 5, knit 2. 4th row: rib 3, knit 3, rib 4. +5th row: knit 5, rib 1, knit 4. 6th row: knit 4, rib 1, knit 5. 7th row: +rib 4, knit 3, rib 3. 8th row: knit 2, rib 5, knit 3. 9th row: rib 2, +knit 7, rib 1. 10th row: rib 9, knit 1. Begin again. + + +No. 4. + +Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row: knit every stitch with the +cotton twice round the needle. 2nd row: begin by dropping one twist of +the 1st stitch, knit the rest of this stitch with the 1st twist of the +next, taking them together; finish the row, knitting 2 threads taken +together, knit the last stitch. Begin again. + + +_Mazaniello Cap._ + + Four Needles, + And Wool of two colors which contrast well. + +Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row is purled. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch and +knit the row taking two stitches together to the last stitch which knit. +3rd row; slip the 1st stitch, purl the next, raise a loop between this +stitch and the next and purl it, repeat these 2 stitches to the end. 4th +row; knit plain. These 4 rows form one stripe of diamonds. Take the +second colored wool and purl 1 row, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows. +Repeat these 8 rows until you have 15 stripes of diamonds in each +colour: Cast off. + +Pick up 60 stitches on the side of the piece you have been knitting; +(i. e. 2 in each stripe of diamonds). Take first the 2nd color and +afterwards the 1st, and repeat the 4 rows as given above, until you have +7 stripes of one color and 6 of the other. Cast off loosely. This piece, +when the cap is finished is _wrong side_ outwards as it is to be turned +up all round. + +To finish the crown, pick up 60 stitches on 3 needles and with the 2nd +color repeat the pattern, observing that its right side must be the +right side of the cap, (consequently the wrong side of the piece at the +bottom). In the 4th round reduce 1 stitch in every 4. Repeat the pattern +with the 1st colors. In the 4th round, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, +repeat to the end of the round. In the 4th round of the 3rd round of +diamonds reduce every other stitch. In the 4th round of the 4th round +of diamonds, thread a worsted needle with the wool and pass it through +all the stitches, draw them up tight and fasten off. + +The cap may be finished with a cord and tassel to match in colors, or +with a tassel only. + + +_Muff, in Spots or Stars._ + + Two wooden needles, No. 10, and for a small muff 1 ounce of blue + and 1 ounce of black fleecy. Double that quantity for a large size. + +For a small muff cast on 60 stitches, for a large one 84. The number +must divide into 3 equal numbers. Cast on the stitches with the black +wool, purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, (every 2nd row with the black wool must begin like this) +bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches pull the first over the 2 last, +repeat these 3 stitches to the end, when you will find you have one +stitch left, bring the wool forward and knit it. Join on the blue wool +and purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken together, +knit 2 stitches and pull the stitch in which you decreased over them, +(every 2nd blue row begins thus) bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches +pull the 1st over the 2 last, repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the +row. Use the black wool and repeat the whole. For a small muff do 21 +stripes of each color, for a large one 42. Cast off. + +To make up a small muff you must buy 5-8ths of gros-de-naples, 1-1/2 oz. +of fine carded wool and 1 oz. of fine horse-hair. Double the silk in +halves and place on it 1 layer of wool. 1 layer of horse-hair and a +second layer of wool. Quilt these to one-half of the silk and fold the +other half over, and sew it to the knitted cover; turn the muff inside +out and sew up first the knitted part and then the silk. Finish the muff +at the edges by a cord or a quilling of ribbon. + + +_Another Muff._ + + Two needles No. 10 and 3 skeins of coarse fleecy. + +Cast on sixty stitches. Knit 1 row; rib 1 row; knit 1 row taking 2 +stitches together all the way. 4th row; knit 1 stitch, pick up and knit +a loop between the stitches, continue the same to the end of the row. As +by this you would lose 1 stitch, this must be prevented by picking up +and knitting a loop alternately, before beginning or at the end of every +4th row. + +Make up the muff like the preceding pattern. + + + + +TERMS USED IN KNITTING. + + + _A turn_ means two rows. + + _To turn_ means to change from plain to purled stitches, or the + reverse. + + _A ridge_ is formed by two rows when knitting with only two pins. + + _A loop stitch_ is formed by passing the thread before the needle, + and, in _knitting_ the next stitch, letting it take its usual place. + + _To increase in knitting a Quilt_, care should always be taken to + increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by + knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting + a second at the back. + + _To fasten on in knitting._ It is a secure fastening to lay the two + ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them + both. + + _To narrow_ or _decrease_ is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a + stocking. + + _Ribbed stitch_, _purl stitch_, _turned_, or _seam stitch_, are all + terms having the same meaning. A turned stitch is made by bringing + the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over + the upper cotton, it is put under. + + _To slip_, _take off_, or _pass a stitch_, is to change it from one + needle to another without knitting it. + + _To take under_, means to pass the right hand needle through the + stitch on the left hand one, so as still to keep the same side of + the stitch towards you. + + _Welts_ are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of + stockings, to prevent their rolling up. + + _Cast off_ means to end your work in the following manner: knit 2 + stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same + until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your + cotton through it. + + _To decrease_ is to lessen the number of stitches by knitting 2 taken + together. + + _To increase_, or _make a double stitch_, is to knit one stitch in the + usual way, then, without slipping out the left hand needle, to pass + the thread forward and knit a second stitch, putting the needle + under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is + finished. + + _Hang on_, means cast on. + + _Bring the thread forward_, means to pass it between the needles + towards you. + + _Cast over_ is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters, to + signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express, + bring the cotton over the needle, quite round. + + _Round the needle_, means the same as the last term. + + _Reversed_, means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed + _over_ the needle, and then carried back to its place. + + _Together_, means knit 2 stitches in 1. + + _Set_, or _Tuft_, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the + Fringes. + + _To widen_ means to increase. + +The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle gauge, as I am +not aware there is any other rule for them. + + + + + =PUBLIC= + SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY, + BELGRAVE SQUARE. + + To this Library every New Work of Interest is + added on the day of Publication. + + TERMS: + + Twelve months £5 5 0 + Six months 3 3 0 + Three months 1 16 0 + + CARD PLATES ENGRAVED & PRINTED. + + STATIONERY, &c. + + =Agent for the Early Supply of Newspapers.= + + JOHN MILAND, + _Chapel Street, Belgrave Square._ + + + + +Transcriber’s Note + + +The following typographical errors were corrected: + + Page Error + ii Chequed changed to Chequered + 7 long enough. changed to long enough, + 12 mesh, In changed to mesh. In + 50 next round. by changed to next round by + 69 the 9th, changed to the 9th. + 73 86 stiches; changed to 86 stitches + 82 and go on, changed to and go on. + 110 sofa guard. changed to sofa guard, + 122 needle guage changed to needle gauge + +The following words were inconsistently spelled: + + D’Oyleys / Doyleys + Honey-comb / Honeycomb + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by +Miss Watts + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND *** + +***** This file should be named 33951-0.txt or 33951-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/9/5/33951/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/33951-0.zip b/33951-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cb9e24e --- /dev/null +++ b/33951-0.zip diff --git a/33951-8.txt b/33951-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1a941ae --- /dev/null +++ b/33951-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2870 @@ +Project Gutenberg's The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by Miss Watts + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book + +Author: Miss Watts + +Release Date: October 2, 2010 [EBook #33951] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + +Transcriber’s Note + +Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled +and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. + + + + + THE LADIES’ + KNITTING AND NETTING + BOOK. + + SECOND SERIES. + + + + + THE LADIES’ KNITTING + AND NETTING + BOOK. + + + BY MISS WATTS. + + + SECOND SERIES. + + + Second Edition. + + ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL. + + + LONDON: + JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET, + BELGRAVE SQUARE. + + 1840. + + + + + Lessons given in knitting and netting. + For terms and address, apply to the Publisher. + + + W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + + Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves 1 + Netted ditto 3 + Feather ditto 5 + Plain open Mittens 8 + Another Plain ditto 10 + Annet ditto 11 + Honeycomb ditto 13 + Matrimony ditto 15 + Lambs’-wool ditto ib. + Round Netted ditto 17 + Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top 18 + Feather Mits 20 + Cuffs, Peacock Stitch 21 + Netted Cuffs 22 + Warm ditto 23 + Muffatees 24 + Ditto ib. + Gentlemen’s ditto 25 + Cushion Cover 26 + Sofa Pillow ditto 27 + Striped Cushion ditto ib. + Knitted Mat, with Fringe 28 + Netted Mat 30 + Vase ditto ib. + Table mats 31 + Table ditto, in one piece 32 + Napkin Ring 33 + A Pence Purse, or Jug ib. + Bouquetier. No. 1. 35 + Ditto No. 2. 36 + Tidy Basket 37 + Ladder Stitch Bag 38 + Crossed Stitch ditto 39 + Netted ditto 40 + Fringe ib. + Netted ditto 41 + Scarf ditto ib. + Fringe 42 + Rug ditto ib. + Carriage Rug 43 + Striped Purse 44 + Chequered ditto 45 + Purse in Round Netting ib. + Matrimony--For a Purse 46 + Another ib. + Annet Purse 47 + Honeycomb Purse 48 + Another Honeycomb ib. + Netted Purse 49 + Single Diamond Netting ib. + Treble ditto 50 + Knitted Purse 52 + Stitches for Purses. No. 1. 53 + Ditto. No. 2. ib. + Ditto. No. 3. 54 + Ditto. No. 4. ib. + Ditto. No. 5. 55 + Stitches for Purses. No. 6 56 + Ditto No. 7 57 + Bead Netting ib. + Ditto 58 + Dice Knitting ib. + Open Fan, for a Quilt 60 + Gauffre Fans, for ditto 62 + Ribbed Squares, for ditto 64 + Open work Fan, for ditto 65 + An Open Border 66 + Another Border 67 + A Last Border, for a Quilt 68 + Grecian Border 69 + Diamond Knitting 70 + Border for a Table Cover 71 + Border and Fringe 72 + Scarf for the Throat 73 + Scarf Edge 74 + Scarf 75 + Netted ditto 76 + Porcupine Boa ib. + Leggings 77 + Waistcoat 78 + Knitted ditto 79 + Warm Tippet 80 + Night Cap 82 + Ditto 83 + Lambs’-wool sleeve 84 + Cephaline ib. + Diamond Knitting 85 + Another ditto 87 + Small Feather Pattern 89 + Double Eyelet Knitting ib. + Gouty Shoes 90 + To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting 91 + Double Knitted Soles 92 + Lambs’-wool Boot 93 + Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap 94 + Ditto Hat ib. + Ditto Stockings 95 + Ditto Gaiters 97 + Ditto Spencer ib. + Ditto Stays 99 + Ditto Socks 101 + Netted Curtain 103 + Brioche ib. + A Blanket 105 + Blanket in strips ib. + Netted Lace 106 + Puff Netting 107 + A Cool Night-cap ib. + Suspenders 108 + Parisian Net Knitting 110 + Diamond Knitting 112 + Four Patterns for Doyleys, &c. 113 + Mazaniello Cap 115 + Muff 117 + Ditto 119 + Terms used in Knitting 120 + + + + +THE LADIES’ KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK. + +SECOND SERIES. + + +_Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves._ + + Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool. + +Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit +round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done +about one inch, continue with plain knitting[2-*] until your glove is +long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting +twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it +again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a +needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round +before and after the last increase; continue this until you have +stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except +those for the thumb, on two _other_ needles; divide the stitches for the +thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the +join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted +needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your +needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset; +knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the +gusset: knit plain until the glove is long enough to begin the fingers; +begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as +you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and +21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the +first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset, +these may be decreased or not according to the size required. + + [2-*] If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the glove, or a + pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or more + stitches. + + +_Netted Gloves._ + + The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk + fine. + +Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round, +putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run +the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by +netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next +stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round, +before and after where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for +rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the +stitches for the thumb _round_, when you have done 1 round decrease once +in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is +long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the +end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at +the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5 +rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds +according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16 +stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other +fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of +two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the +_finished_ finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the +gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth. +Run a pattern on the back with flox silk. + + +_Feather Gloves._ + + Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required. + +Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit +round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half +an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton _round the needle_, and +knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the +ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain +and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring +the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by +knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the +centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and +repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches, +which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds +until the glove is long enough to begin to increase for the thumb: +after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a +stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in +the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round, +continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9 +stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing, +knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the +thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, +knit 1 stitch, increase as before. + +When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st +needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a +stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease +twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next +round of the holes of the _pattern_ you will have 17 stitches for the +thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease +twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2, +increase 1. In future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern +down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with +the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be +knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round, +take all the other stitches on 2 _other_ needles, and knit the thumb +round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb +is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before, +take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and +continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd +stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if +you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease +the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle: +continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long enough, begin +the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19; +knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when +you have done this finger, take up 4 stitches for the gusset at the +bottom of the 1st finger,[8-*] 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern. +The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19 +of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of +the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset +stitches. + +When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow +ribbon in the holes. + + [8-*] These stitches may be decreased again or not. + + +_Plain open Mittens._ + + Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No. + 14, and moderately fine silk. + +Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the +ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next +round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following +stitches, complete the round, and net 2 rounds without increase. +Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which +you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches +every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make +the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made _over_ each +other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net +the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together, +if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough +net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round, +taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the +fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of +the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the +mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the +thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can +be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it. + + +_Another plain Mitten._ + + On a smaller mesh than the preceding. + +Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 _rows_ with the silk once +round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with +it once. Now begin to net _rounds_ instead of _rows_, by netting the +last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches, +increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a +stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and +net another round without increase. Increase _outside_ the last +additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional +stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase _within_ the +additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time _within_ the +last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the +stitch _over_ the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding +stitch on the other side of the thumb, net round the thumb (decreasing +to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by +netting 1 round with double silk _twice_, and 3 rounds with single silk +_once_, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the +side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2 +rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and +net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4 +rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done +on rather a finer mesh. + + +_Annet Mittens._ + +Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 _rows_; then net 1 row with the silk twice +round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net +_rounds_ instead of _rows_. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk +passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the +2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of +the 1st, net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the +4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat +these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the +silk twice round the mesh. In the next round, which is like the second, +care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the +last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round +the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2 +stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk +passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1 +round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these +rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2 +stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further +back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting +from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4 +rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side _over_ the last +additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and proceed to make the thumb as +directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net +1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next +round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the +last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the +silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the +alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb. + + +_Honey-comb Mittens._ + + Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches. + +Net 3 _rows_. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows +once round the mesh; then begin netting in _rounds_. 1st round, for +every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch +once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net +the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the +3rd plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate +repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning +the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a +plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued +throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is +given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th, +net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again +2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in +which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more. +Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each +side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds, +and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease +if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with +double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round +twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom +of the thumb, add 1 stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds +of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the +thumb. + + +_Matrimony Mittens._ + +The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last +mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As +this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The +mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches. + + _Note._--It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens, + begin with _rows_ instead of _rounds_, this is to prevent the + necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken + off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is + made on the other. + + +_Lambs’-wool Mittens._ + + This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up. + + Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of + an inch wide. + +Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net +2 rows with lambs’-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd. +Repeat these rows of lambs’-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of +the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same +back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, these +stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net +2 rows of lambs’-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of +silk, 2 rows of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, and 1 of silk. +All the rows of lambs’-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of +silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in +at the top of the first row of silk. + +This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours. + + +_Mitten in Round Netting._ + + Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14. + +Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round +netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice +round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking +care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you +give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2 +stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in +the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the +stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time); +increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each +increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several +rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be +joined together. Join the first and last stitches over the last added +stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit. +When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the +bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the +hand part of the mitten is long enough. + +If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a +round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next +round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh. + + +_Mittens._ + + With a leaf wreath round the top. + + Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required, + for instance brown and blue. + +Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one +round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2 +stitches bringing the silk forward between each, knit 3 stitches, +repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the +brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, +repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds +of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of +blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4 +brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4 +brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue, +4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4 +blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1 +round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same +reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds +decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward, +knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain +round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear; +then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14 +stitches on the right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before +until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as +before and finish with a brown round. + +Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes, +and finish with a brown round. + + +_Feather Mits._ + + These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going + to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambs’-wool + are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half + or a whole skein of wool. + +Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a +plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice; +decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the +centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3 +times; increase 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit +3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern. + + +_Cuffs, Peacock Stitch._ + + Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are + required. + +Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches, +bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward +between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round. +Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull +the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2 +stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat +this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the +purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, +knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 +stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the +thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together, +repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the +cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge. + + +_Netted Cuffs._ + + Four skeins of colored lambs’-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No. + 14, a flat wooden mesh 1/2 an inch wide, and a foundation of 120 + stitches, are required. + +Net 2 rows of colored lambs’-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white +lambs’-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2 +white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number; +net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until +there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored +between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in +every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored. + +Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and +pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the +wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh. + + +_Warm Cuffs._ + + Two needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles; +knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle; +rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2 +rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12 +rows as at first. + +Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together. + + +_Muffatees._ + + Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing +3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is +about six inches long, begin double knitting[24-*] on coarser needles; +when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off; +sew up the part that is in double knitting. + + [24-*] Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip a stitch, + pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat these 2 + stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round. + + +_Muffatees._ + + Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color + may be varied at pleasure. + +Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these +rows, reckoning the cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long +enough cast off and sew it up. + +These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool. + + +_Gentlemen’s Muffatees._ + + Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambs’-wool and 4 of + white. + +Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2 +stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every +row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish +the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up. + +These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the +sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse +lambs’-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on +smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again. + + +_Cushion Cover._ + + This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or + German lambs’-wool, white or colored, according to fancy. + +Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your +4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st +stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd, +the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an +odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next +needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd +stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the +next needle. + +When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square, +knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and +surround it with a cord or fringe. + + +_Sofa Pillow Cover._ + + Four Needles No. 11. + +Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread +twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd +stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd +stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round +with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these +two rounds form the pattern. + +When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard) +cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe. + + +_Striped Cushion Cover._ + +Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch +slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd, +the 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is +the same. + + +_Knitted Mat with Fringe._ + + Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambs’-wool. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by +bringing the wool forward before _every_ stitch every 3rd round, until +you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round, +increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 +round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round +increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round; +purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool +with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you +will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3-1/2 +inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the lengths together and loop +in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the +needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third +finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit +of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the +left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next +round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round, +and cast off. + +Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round +before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1 +round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off. + +Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize +or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to +the edge of the card all round. + + +_Netted Mat._ + + To put between plates. + +This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a 1/4 of an inch +wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24 +rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the +mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie +it tight, (this is the centre). + +Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a +round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a +fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure. + + +_Knitted Vase Mat._ + + Two needles No. 14. + +This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very +pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15; +knit 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a +point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in +the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former +vol.) + + +_Table Mats._ + +These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces. + +Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the +2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the +cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be +repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to +prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit +16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you +knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn, +until you knit 18 and back again; cast off. + +End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3 stitches, increase 1, knit to +within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of +the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to +leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind +and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time, +without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off. + +Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and +surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the +size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side +pieces. + + +_Table Mat._ + + In one piece. + +Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21; +increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches; +increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you have 32 stitches; knit 8 +rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond, +decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The +size can be altered by varying the size of the pins. + + +_Napkin Ring._ + + This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather + fine pins. + +Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit +3 rounds, and cast off rather tight. + + +_A Pence Purse, or Jug._ + + Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambs’-wool of + different colors, are required. + +Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and +forwards, in common knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop +6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third, +(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting +2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2, +rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped +stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until +within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2; +on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this +round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will +find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2 +alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner, +then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain +knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a +stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color, +knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and +knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain round and +3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4 +needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing +1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing +alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3 +rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape; +divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds +without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so, +until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted +needle, and sew down the handle. + + +_Bouquetier._ No. 1. + + You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist. + +Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round +knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for 44 or 48 +rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing +by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3; +and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round +bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each +needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain, +continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round) +until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th +needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib +alternate _rows_, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in +the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same +manner. + + +_Bouquetier._ No. 2. + + Four needles No. 14. + +Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches +alternately for 48 rounds. Then knit and rib alternate _rounds_, +increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until +you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit +backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1 +stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were +rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point. + + +_Tidy Basket._ + + Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4 +stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide +your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing +3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third. +Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3 +rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the +largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain, and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4 +stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle, +until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which +were left on the opposite side of the basket. + +Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and +fasten it to the bottom on the inside. + + +_Ladder Stitch Bag._ + + Two needles No. 12. + +Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately; +and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following +rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12 +rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to +form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the +next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over +the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the +same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern +until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make +the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon +round the top. + + +_Crossed Stitch Bag._ + + Two needles No. 12. + +Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the +needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the +1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the +same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the +needle. + +When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the +sides. + + +_Netted Bag._ + + To hold the ball when knitting. + +These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of +course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are +very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh +should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring, +(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently +long. + + +_Fringe._ + +Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit +2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken +together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with +the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit +the remaining 6 plain; continue these 2 rows until the fringe is the +length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel +the 6 stitches of plain knitting. + + +_Netted Fringe._ + + To go round a bag. + +Net 300 stitches on a mesh 1/2 an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No. +15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row, +putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh. +Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe. +_Cut_ it off of the foundation. + + +_Scarf Fringe._ + + To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk. + +Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 +taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the +silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2 +rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off +6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted. + + +_Fringe._ + +Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and +knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken +together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a +sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the +fringe. + + +_Rug Fringe._ + +Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some +yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two +inches. + +Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of +yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right +hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until +within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is +plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat +these two rows. + + +_Carriage Rug._ + + Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and + some coarse _yarn_ cut into lengths of about two inches. + +With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place +1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side; +knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the +needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end +and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before +you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the +row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the +strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another. +When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm +mat. + + +_Striped Purse._ + + Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide. + +Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in +the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it), +then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of +the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the +mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse +is wide enough. + +N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and +netted in shades of different colors. + + +_Chequered Purse._ + + Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares. + +Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6 +stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the +pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the +rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over +the brown, and the brown over the pink. + + +_Purse in Round Netting._ + + Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide. + +Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch +(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed +under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch. + + +_Matrimony.--For a Purse._ + + Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches. + +Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing +the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them +together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain +netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net +the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it +will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the +pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat +the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch. + + +_Another._ + +Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row, +passing the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,) +net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net +the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches +until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row. + + +_Annet Purse._ + + Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches. + +Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd +row, pull the 1st stitch _through_ the 2nd from the back, net it; pull +the 2nd stitch through the _middle_ of the 1st, (taking care not to +twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th +through the _middle_ of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the +end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain +before beginning the pattern. + + +_Honey-comb Purse._ + +On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd +stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to +half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning +it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the +row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain +before beginning the pattern. + + +_Another Honey-comb._ + +On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round +the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the +1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches +together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to +the end of the row. Next row begin again. + + +_Netted Purse._ + + In two colors. + +Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80 +or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate +stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this +change of color, every row is the same. + + +_Single Diamond Netting._ + + On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a + purse four inches wide. + +Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once +round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on +alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch +once round the mesh,) draw out the mesh, put it in one of the long +stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch; +the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds +until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead +of netting _round_ the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The +1st stitch in the 1st _row_ is once _round_ the mesh, the 2nd twice, the +3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch +has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full +length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch. +When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net +round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round +the purse will be once round the mesh. + + +_Treble Diamond Netting._ + + On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18. + +Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next round by putting the silk twice +round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once +round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed. +Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the +long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net +the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip +them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the +2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end +of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh. +Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1 +stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the +mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the +round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch; +repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st +round, viz.--1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the +silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough +to begin the opening, which should be begun in a round after that in +which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round +it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice +round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of +the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the +mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long +enough, begin to net in _rounds_ instead of _rows_, taking care to make +the diamond stitches match. + + +_Knitted Purse._ + + Four needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring +the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch, +knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken +together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round, +is the same as the 1st. 4th round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the +silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch, +knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all +round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again. + + +_Stitches for Purses._ No. 1. + + Four needles are required. + +Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In +beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,) +knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and +continue the same until the purse is long enough. + + +No. 2. + + With 2 needles. + +Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit +2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat +the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike. + + +No. 3. + + With 2 needles. + +Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk +forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over +the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of +the row. Knit a plain row and begin again. + + +No. 4. + + On 2 needles. + +Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped +stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the +row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the pattern, but in the 3rd +row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the +pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over +the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by +knitting 1 stitch. + +This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of +each. + + +No. 5. + + Two needles. + +Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches +together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch, +rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of +the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when +you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the +last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the +1st row. + + +No. 6. + + Two needles. + +Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2 +stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the +1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last +stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick +up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and +knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after +twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the +thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch, +continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the +1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole +and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to +the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row. + + +No. 7. + +Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted +plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd +row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is +across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next +stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain +knitting. Begin again at the 1st row. + + +_Bead Netting._ + +Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to +where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot +and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and +the next row will fix these in their places. + + +_Bead Netting_, + + With the bead on the knot. + +Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row; +net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close +to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up +to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the +bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to +place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open. + + +_Dice Knitting._ + + For a Purse. + +This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine +needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk. + +Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until +you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd +row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass _that_ silk round the +silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk +knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and +bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in +the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball +of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with +the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with +the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st +forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you +have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread +of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch +with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color, +knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and +continue the same for the rest of the 8 stitches, when you will find 2 +threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring +forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those +of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then +knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the +color again. + +This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles +and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on +both sides it does not require lining. + + +_Open Fan for a Quilt._ + + Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18. + +Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5, +decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left +hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side are +_always_ knitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these +2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a +stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border +stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A +plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease, +purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row. +Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the +border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1, +knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the +slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, +knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these +stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the +rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The +last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until +14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still +decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in +the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last +stitch. + + +_Gauffre Fans for a Quilt._ + +Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row is +_slipped_ throughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches, +counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60, +decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit +58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the +cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, +decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven +times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,[62-*] +purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4, +decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit +1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. +ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1, +slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decrease 1, and knit the 4 last stitches. A +plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. +Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &c. ending the row with +knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, +purl 4, &c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, +bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, slip 2, +decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decreasing 1 stitch in +the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40, +decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and +so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2 +middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the +last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is made +_not_ on that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every +other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting, +decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches, +knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch. + + [62-*] In rows like this always keep the cotton before in slipping + a stitch. + + +_Ribbed Squares._ + + For a Quilt. + +Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch +at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th +row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd, +increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th +row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row, +knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. +Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, +increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, +purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit +4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase +1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, +purl 2, knit 2, &c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit +2, purl 2, &c. Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until +there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay +in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them +together. + + +_Open work Fan._ + + For a Quilt. + +Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is +always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward +slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring +the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over +the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left +hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66, +knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, +slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted, +repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle, +decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit +2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped +stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before, +decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease +1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped +over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton +forward _before_ slipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and +knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows, +decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that the _first_ +slipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole) +until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as +before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the +cotton through the remaining stitch. + + +_An open Border._ + +Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the +1st stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, +pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches +to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then +begin with the first row again. + +A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement. + + +_Another Border._ + +Cast on any even number of stitches. Rib _each_ row with the exception +of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When +you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border +stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2 +stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back +and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row +is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come +to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be +sure that your pattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on +the wrong side, and 4 on the right. + + +_A Last Border._ + +For a Quilt. + + Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton. + +Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second +stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and +3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which +knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you +were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the +right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to +be purled. Begin again at the 1st row. + + +_Grecian Border._ + + Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton. + +Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd +row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row, +the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row, +purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows +are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the 9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and +23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and +31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and +39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl +12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row. + + +_Diamond Knitting._ + + For a Quilt Border. + +Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always +plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, +knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from +the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row, +knit the border stitches, and rib the rest; _every_ back row is the +same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1 +stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches, +decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, +repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue +increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3 +stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the +diamond which you have made by increasing, and increase on each side +before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern +done to see how to proceed. + +Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you +have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease +the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your +greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5. + + +_Border for a Table Cover._ + +Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip +a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a +stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to +knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to +begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in +length, then cast off. + +This border in crimson cotton or German lambs’-wool, is a nice finish to +a dark cloth cover. + + +_Border and Fringe._ + + In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl. + +Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd +color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the +1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2 +stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of +the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the +left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the +same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only +observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd. +After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again. + +When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for +the Fringe. + + +_Scarf for the Throat._ + + It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German Lambs’-wool. + +Cast on 86 stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86 +cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course +of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing +for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and +also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence +the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2 +stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same +until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the +border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round +the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this +to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6, +rib 3, &c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. 5th +row; knit 4, take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 6th row; rib 4, +increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3, +&c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &c. 9th row; knit 8, knit +2 together, rib 3, &c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &c. +11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &c. 12th row; +rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together, +knit 4, rib 3, &c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 15th +row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 16th row; rib 6, +increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second +pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough, +then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to +the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends. + + +_Scarf Edge._ + + Two needles and gold colored flox silk. + +Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken +together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 +taken together, knit 2 stitches. + +A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern. + + +_Scarf._ + + Two needles No. 7. + +Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a +stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib +1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same. + +This scarf takes about 2-1/2 ounces of German lambs’-wool; it requires a +wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends, +which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the +desired color, beginning with the darkest. + + +_Netted Scarf._ + + On a foundation of 54 stitches. + +Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet, +amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue, +amber, and scarlet. + + +_Porcupine Boa._ + + Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool +forward, knit a stitch--this is the centre stitch of the pattern--bring +the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2 +taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the +4 stitches, &c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch +off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continue this for +6 rounds, increasing _before_ and _after_ every centre stitch, and +knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the +next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain +rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2 +together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you +decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this +time. + +Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to +count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you +decrease. + +This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it +with cotton wool and put strings to it. + + +_Leggings._ + + Two ivory needles and rather fine lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2 inches, knitting and +ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and +increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60 +stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you +increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to +match the top. Sew them up. + + +_Waistcoat._ + + Large Size. + +Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows, +cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26 +stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14 +stitches, knit 38 rows. + + The Sleeve. + +Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves +a narrow bit to tack to the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open +under the arm. + + +_Knitted Waistcoat._ + +Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows; +cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows, +cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows, +cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows. + + Sleeves. + +Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9 +rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for +19. + + +_Warm Tippet._ + + Two needles, No. 11. + +Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2 +taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows, +then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions +of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and +knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther +each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer +stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards +receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have +now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6 +stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick +up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward, +slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end +of the row without any more increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches +in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the +increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1 +(instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows, +and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the +first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted +10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the +gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the +end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches +and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2 +stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset +again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the +gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of +stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the +thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip +another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitches +together, bring the thread forward and go on. In the next row, when you +come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3 +stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the +10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole +rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the +cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must +increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased. + + +_Night Cap._ + + With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each +needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam +in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other +round, until you have a sufficient number of stitches for the size of +your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until +your cap is 3/4 of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning, +decreasing where you before increased. + + +_Night Cap._ + + French Pattern. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4, +next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre +stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam +(leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle. +When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round +until the cap is 3/4 of a yard long: make the end like the beginning. + + +_Lambs’-wool Sleeve._ + +Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the +sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve +is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser +lambs’-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and +finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half. + + +_Cephaline._ + + To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms. + + A mesh 3/4 of an inch wide and one 1/4 that width are required. It + may be netted in flox silk or fine lambs’-wool. + +Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are +the middle rows). Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted +with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine +mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh +2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60, +and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a +narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on +the other side, beginning at the first narrow row. + +Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the +Cephaline is made. + + +_Diamond Knitting._ + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the +cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it, +knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton +forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain +round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, +pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken +together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11 +stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton +forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted +stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, +repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton +forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted +one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat +these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the +cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted +stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2 +together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, +slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat +these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another +round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond, +and decrease the other half diamond to a point. + + +_Another Diamond Knitting._ + + Four needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the +thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, +knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken +together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, +knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull +the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this +all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 +and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, +bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain +round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the +slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward +knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together, +bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 +stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this +all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3 +stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the +slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward +and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see +you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and +you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle +stitches of the larger diamond are _always_ plain knitting, and the 1st +decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond. + + +_Small Feather Pattern._ + + As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty + for a purse or mitten. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the +thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, +thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice, +knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice, +increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds. +Repeat these 4 rounds. + + +_Double Eyelet Knitting._ + + Four needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the +thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together, +knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1 stitch, repeat these 7 +stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds. + + +_Gouty Shoes._ + +For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1 +stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20 +stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12 +rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4 +times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row; +twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch +in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease +3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row +until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off. + +This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles +No. 16. + +For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, with needles No. 8, and coarse +lambs’-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25 +stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then +2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit +12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter. +Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards, +to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the +sole on the wrong side. + + +_To increase and decrease in Double Knitting._ + +In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3 +rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the +1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd +row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you +come to the increase, knit 1 stitch, and pass the next upon another +needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from +the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that +you cannot increase less than two stitches at once. + +Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit +2 _knitting_ stitches together passing the farther one over the +intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches +(instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2 _knitting_ stitches will come together, +knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at +once. + + +_Double Knitted Soles._ + + To wear in the shoes. + +Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches +in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24 +stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2 stitches every 2 rows until you +have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20 +stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12 +stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the +remaining 4 stitches. + + +_Lambs’-wool Boot._ + + Four ivory needles and coarse lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2 +ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured +lambs’-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease +in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows; +knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color, +1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawing the lambs’-wool through +2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom. + + +_Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap._ + +Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in +double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in +depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3 +turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the +crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of +double knitting, and run a ribbon through it. + + +_Baby’s Hat._ + + Seven needles No. 16, are required. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round +increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round +increasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase. +Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1 +round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always +increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round, +until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds +alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round +increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit +and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the +1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13 +welts, and cast off. + +Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape. + + +_Baby’s Stockings._ + + With needles No. 15, and fine lambs’-wool. + +Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3 +rows increasing at the end of each. After this increase, at the end of +every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take +off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning +at the _sloping_ side) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, +cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing. +When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10 +stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches, +increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but +two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain +rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches. +Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit +every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When +knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie +it round the ankle. + + +_Baby’s Gaiters._ + +Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the +end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row. +Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit +18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a +third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, +cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased +to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches +from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the +side and knit the _legging_ as in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind +the foot with white ribbon. + + +_Baby’s Spencer._ + + Needles No. 14. + +Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In +the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in the +middle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches +together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row +afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the +8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of +the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14 +stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make +the other to match it. + +The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th +row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six +times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of +the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a +stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are) +until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need +not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other +end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing +until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitches backwards and +forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at +the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down +the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the +buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make +holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off. + +The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it +wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches +alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows. + + +_Baby’s Stays._ + + To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambs’-wool. Needles No. 15. + +Cast on 204 stitches. The 6 _first_ and _last_ stitches are knitted +every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6. +Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the +last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches, and, +instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit +and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row +(consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row. +Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast +off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit +the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 +stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the +rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the +12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with +the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and +rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest. +Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only +are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and +knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit +and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and +knit the rest. Rib and knit 12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches +backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of +the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on +strings. + + +_Baby’s Sock._ + + To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14, + and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambs’-wool are required. + +Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambs’-wool, +knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and +12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the +piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles. +Knit 6 _turns_, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have +only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting +1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel +in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you +have 60 stitches left. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle, divide the +stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two +rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56 +round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit one _round_ and +cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe. + +For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14 +stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding). +Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and +the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side +stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle +every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2 +rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up +a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34 +stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern +as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit +1 plain round adding a stitch after every third stitch, making in all +64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches +alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in +front of the shoe. + + +_Netted Curtain._ + + For a French Bed. + +With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the +curtain. + + +_Moorish Brioche or Cushion._ + + Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that + contrast well. Two needles, No. 12. + +Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by +this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a +stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 2nd row: +bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with +the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop +and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6 +more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten +on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring +the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the +row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the +wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you +slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit +8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these +divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net +a fringe with double coarse lambs’-wool to the narrow part, and run in a +string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round +cushion, and cover it with the knitting. + + +_A Blanket._ + + Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse. + +Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with +the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it, +knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you +will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only +difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it +together. + +These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty. + + +_Blanket in strips._ + + Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern. + +Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows common knitting; then begin double +knitting,[106-*] knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border, +knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again; +continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty +if the squares are done in different colors. + + [106-*] See Contents--Double Knitting. For a blanket it is better + to put the wool twice round the needle in the knitted stitches. + + +_Netted Lace._ + + Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the + number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for. + 216 will make about a yard. + +Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh 1/4 of an inch wide, or a trifle wider, +net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the +next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the +row. Take the small mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a +single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh. + + +_Puff Netting._ + + Very pretty for caps. + +Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9 +stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net +3 rows, 1 stitch in _every_ stitch. In the next row (which will make the +5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the +following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again. + + +_A Cool Night-cap._ + + Puff netting. + + The mesh to be 1/4 inch wide. + +Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the +4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this +all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch in _every_ stitch. In the +next round take the 5 plain stitches as _one_, net 5 stitches, repeat +all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after +the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the +cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and +tie the top string tight. + + +_Suspenders._ + + Two needles No. 16. + +Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the +thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on +another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is +long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knit up the +other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the +thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double +knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the +needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2, +which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch +first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th +and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch. +Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were +going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right +hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled. +Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double +knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish +in a point. + +These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the +first series. + + +_Parisian Net Knitting._ + + This pattern is very pretty for a foot-muff, blanket, or sofa + guard. + + Take German lambs’-wool of two colors that contrast well; pink and + white form a pretty mixture. + +Cast on an even number of stitches, and with the white wool knit several +rows before beginning the pattern. 1st row; fasten on the pink wool +forward, knit the first stitch with the white wool, pass the pink round +the needle bringing it forward again, and purl the next stitch with it; +pass the purled stitch on to the left-hand needle and knit it with the +white wool, knit 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round the +needle, purl 1 stitch and pass it back on to the left-hand needle, knit +it and the following stitch with the white wool; continue the same to +the end of the row. 2nd row; purl the white stitches with the white +wool, and slip the pink loops, taking care not to twist them or change +the side which is forward. 3rd row; knit the white stitches with the +white wool and slip the pink loops. 4th row; purl the 1st stitch with +the white wool, turn the pink wool (which is now behind) round the +needle, and with it knit the pink loop and following white stitch taken +together, slip the stitch on to the left hand needle and purl it with +the white wool, purl 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round +the needle, and knit with it the pink loop and following stitch taken +together, slip it on to the other needle and purl it with the white +wool, repeat the same to the end. 5th row; knit all the white stitches +with the white wool and slip the pink loops. 6th row; purl the white +stitches with the white wool and slip the pink. 7th row; knit 1 stitch +with the white wool, pass the pink wool (which is forward) round the +needle and with it purl the pink loop and following white stitch taken +together, observing to take the pink loop by the under side, slip the +stitch on to the left hand needle and knit it and the following white +stitch with the white wool; repeat the same to the end of the row: as +the 7th row takes the place of the 1st, continue with the 2nd row. + + +_Diamond Knitting._ + +Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. 1st round: knit 12 stitches, knit +2 taken together, and bring the cotton forward; repeat the same. 2nd +round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 9, knit 2 taken together and +bring the cotton forward, knit 1 and bring the cotton forward again. 3rd +round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, +bring the cotton forward, knit 3, and bring the cotton forward again. +4th round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 5, knit 2 taken +together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, and bring the cotton forward +again. 5th round: knit 2 taken together, knit 3, knit 2 taken together, +bring the cotton forward, knit 7, bring the cotton forward. 6th round: +knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring +the cotton forward, knit 9, bring the cotton forward. 7th round: knit 3 +taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, bring the cotton +forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 4, bring the cotton forward. Begin +again. + + +_Four Patterns, for D’Oyleys, Toilet Covers, Baby’s Quilts, or Basket +Napkins._ + + Two needles, No. 22 or 23, and very fine knitting cotton. + + +No. 1. + +Cast on a number of stitches that will divide into an even number of +threes. _Knit and rib_ 3 stitches alternately for 3 rounds. In the next +3 rounds, _rib and knit_ 3 stitches alternately. + + +No. 2. + +Cast on a number of stitches as for the last pattern. Knit and rib 3 +stitches alternately for 2 rows. The following rows begin so as to bring +the first ribbed stitch over the last knitted: this is to make the +ribbed and knitted ridges go in diagonal stripes. + + +No. 3. + +Cast on a number of stitches that will divide by 10. Knit 1 stitch, rib +9, repeat the same to the end of the row. 2nd row: rib 1 stitch, knit 7, +rib 2. 3rd row: knit 3, rib 5, knit 2. 4th row: rib 3, knit 3, rib 4. +5th row: knit 5, rib 1, knit 4. 6th row: knit 4, rib 1, knit 5. 7th row: +rib 4, knit 3, rib 3. 8th row: knit 2, rib 5, knit 3. 9th row: rib 2, +knit 7, rib 1. 10th row: rib 9, knit 1. Begin again. + + +No. 4. + +Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row: knit every stitch with the +cotton twice round the needle. 2nd row: begin by dropping one twist of +the 1st stitch, knit the rest of this stitch with the 1st twist of the +next, taking them together; finish the row, knitting 2 threads taken +together, knit the last stitch. Begin again. + + +_Mazaniello Cap._ + + Four Needles, + And Wool of two colors which contrast well. + +Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row is purled. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch and +knit the row taking two stitches together to the last stitch which knit. +3rd row; slip the 1st stitch, purl the next, raise a loop between this +stitch and the next and purl it, repeat these 2 stitches to the end. 4th +row; knit plain. These 4 rows form one stripe of diamonds. Take the +second colored wool and purl 1 row, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows. +Repeat these 8 rows until you have 15 stripes of diamonds in each +colour: Cast off. + +Pick up 60 stitches on the side of the piece you have been knitting; +(i. e. 2 in each stripe of diamonds). Take first the 2nd color and +afterwards the 1st, and repeat the 4 rows as given above, until you have +7 stripes of one color and 6 of the other. Cast off loosely. This piece, +when the cap is finished is _wrong side_ outwards as it is to be turned +up all round. + +To finish the crown, pick up 60 stitches on 3 needles and with the 2nd +color repeat the pattern, observing that its right side must be the +right side of the cap, (consequently the wrong side of the piece at the +bottom). In the 4th round reduce 1 stitch in every 4. Repeat the pattern +with the 1st colors. In the 4th round, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, +repeat to the end of the round. In the 4th round of the 3rd round of +diamonds reduce every other stitch. In the 4th round of the 4th round +of diamonds, thread a worsted needle with the wool and pass it through +all the stitches, draw them up tight and fasten off. + +The cap may be finished with a cord and tassel to match in colors, or +with a tassel only. + + +_Muff, in Spots or Stars._ + + Two wooden needles, No. 10, and for a small muff 1 ounce of blue + and 1 ounce of black fleecy. Double that quantity for a large size. + +For a small muff cast on 60 stitches, for a large one 84. The number +must divide into 3 equal numbers. Cast on the stitches with the black +wool, purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, (every 2nd row with the black wool must begin like this) +bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches pull the first over the 2 last, +repeat these 3 stitches to the end, when you will find you have one +stitch left, bring the wool forward and knit it. Join on the blue wool +and purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken together, +knit 2 stitches and pull the stitch in which you decreased over them, +(every 2nd blue row begins thus) bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches +pull the 1st over the 2 last, repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the +row. Use the black wool and repeat the whole. For a small muff do 21 +stripes of each color, for a large one 42. Cast off. + +To make up a small muff you must buy 5-8ths of gros-de-naples, 1-1/2 oz. +of fine carded wool and 1 oz. of fine horse-hair. Double the silk in +halves and place on it 1 layer of wool. 1 layer of horse-hair and a +second layer of wool. Quilt these to one-half of the silk and fold the +other half over, and sew it to the knitted cover; turn the muff inside +out and sew up first the knitted part and then the silk. Finish the muff +at the edges by a cord or a quilling of ribbon. + + +_Another Muff._ + + Two needles No. 10 and 3 skeins of coarse fleecy. + +Cast on sixty stitches. Knit 1 row; rib 1 row; knit 1 row taking 2 +stitches together all the way. 4th row; knit 1 stitch, pick up and knit +a loop between the stitches, continue the same to the end of the row. As +by this you would lose 1 stitch, this must be prevented by picking up +and knitting a loop alternately, before beginning or at the end of every +4th row. + +Make up the muff like the preceding pattern. + + + + +TERMS USED IN KNITTING. + + + _A turn_ means two rows. + + _To turn_ means to change from plain to purled stitches, or the + reverse. + + _A ridge_ is formed by two rows when knitting with only two pins. + + _A loop stitch_ is formed by passing the thread before the needle, + and, in _knitting_ the next stitch, letting it take its usual place. + + _To increase in knitting a Quilt_, care should always be taken to + increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by + knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting + a second at the back. + + _To fasten on in knitting._ It is a secure fastening to lay the two + ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them + both. + + _To narrow_ or _decrease_ is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a + stocking. + + _Ribbed stitch_, _purl stitch_, _turned_, or _seam stitch_, are all + terms having the same meaning. A turned stitch is made by bringing + the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over + the upper cotton, it is put under. + + _To slip_, _take off_, or _pass a stitch_, is to change it from one + needle to another without knitting it. + + _To take under_, means to pass the right hand needle through the + stitch on the left hand one, so as still to keep the same side of + the stitch towards you. + + _Welts_ are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of + stockings, to prevent their rolling up. + + _Cast off_ means to end your work in the following manner: knit 2 + stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same + until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your + cotton through it. + + _To decrease_ is to lessen the number of stitches by knitting 2 taken + together. + + _To increase_, or _make a double stitch_, is to knit one stitch in the + usual way, then, without slipping out the left hand needle, to pass + the thread forward and knit a second stitch, putting the needle + under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is + finished. + + _Hang on_, means cast on. + + _Bring the thread forward_, means to pass it between the needles + towards you. + + _Cast over_ is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters, to + signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express, + bring the cotton over the needle, quite round. + + _Round the needle_, means the same as the last term. + + _Reversed_, means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed + _over_ the needle, and then carried back to its place. + + _Together_, means knit 2 stitches in 1. + + _Set_, or _Tuft_, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the + Fringes. + + _To widen_ means to increase. + +The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle gauge, as I am +not aware there is any other rule for them. + + + + + =PUBLIC= + SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY, + BELGRAVE SQUARE. + + To this Library every New Work of Interest is + added on the day of Publication. + + TERMS: + + Twelve months £5 5 0 + Six months 3 3 0 + Three months 1 16 0 + + CARD PLATES ENGRAVED & PRINTED. + + STATIONERY, &c. + + =Agent for the Early Supply of Newspapers.= + + JOHN MILAND, + _Chapel Street, Belgrave Square._ + + + + +Transcriber’s Note + + +The following typographical errors were corrected: + + Page Error + ii Chequed changed to Chequered + 7 long enough. changed to long enough, + 12 mesh, In changed to mesh. In + 50 next round. by changed to next round by + 69 the 9th, changed to the 9th. + 73 86 stiches; changed to 86 stitches + 82 and go on, changed to and go on. + 110 sofa guard. changed to sofa guard, + 122 needle guage changed to needle gauge + +The following words were inconsistently spelled: + + D’Oyleys / Doyleys + Honey-comb / Honeycomb + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by +Miss Watts + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND *** + +***** This file should be named 33951-8.txt or 33951-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/9/5/33951/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book + +Author: Miss Watts + +Release Date: October 2, 2010 [EBook #33951] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tn"> +<p class="titlepage"><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled +and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + + + +<p class="titlepage">THE LADIES’<br /> +KNITTING AND NETTING<br /> +BOOK.</p> + +<p class="titlepage">SECOND SERIES.</p> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + + + +<h1 class="chapterhead">THE LADIES’ KNITTING<br /> +AND NETTING<br /> +BOOK.<br /> +<br /> +<span class="size70">BY MISS WATTS.</span></h1> + +<hr class="declong" /> + +<p class="titlepage">SECOND SERIES.</p> + +<hr class="decshort" /> + +<p class="titlepage">Second Edition.</p> + +<p class="titlepage">ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL.</p> + +<hr class="declong" /> + +<p class="titlepage">LONDON:<br /> +JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET,<br /> +BELGRAVE SQUARE.</p> + +<hr class="decshort" /> + +<p class="titlepage">1840.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + + +<p class="titlepage">Lessons given in knitting and netting.<br /> +For terms and address, apply to the Publisher.</p> + +<p class="titlepagetop2">W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[i]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + + +<table summary="table of contents"> +<tr> + <td></td> + <td class="tdr">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Gentlemens_Knitted_Gloves">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Netted ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Gloves">3</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Feather ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Feather_Gloves">5</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Plain open Mittens</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plain_open_Mittens">8</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Another Plain ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_plain_Mitten">10</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Annet ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Annet_Mittens">11</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Honeycomb ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Honey-comb_Mittens">13</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Matrimony ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Matrimony_Mittens">15</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Lambs’-wool ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Lambs-wool_Mittens">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Round Netted ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Mitten_in_Round_Netting">17</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Mittens">18</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Feather Mits</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Feather_Mits">20</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cuffs, Peacock Stitch</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Cuffs_Peacock_Stitch">21</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Netted Cuffs</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Cuffs">22</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Warm ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Warm_Cuffs">23</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Muffatees</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Muffatees">24</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Muffatees_2">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Gentlemen’s ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Gentlemens_Muffatees">25</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cushion Cover</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Cushion_Cover">26</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Sofa Pillow ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Sofa_Pillow_Cover">27</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Striped Cushion ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Striped_Cushion_Cover">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Knitted Mat, with Fringe</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Knitted_Mat_with_Fringe">28</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Netted Mat</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Mat">30</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span>Vase ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Knitted_Vase_Mat">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Table mats</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Table_Mats">31</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Table ditto, in one piece</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Table_Mat">32</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Napkin Ring</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Napkin_Ring">33</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>A Pence Purse, or Jug</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#A_Pence_Purse">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bouquetier. No. 1.</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Bouquetier_No_1">35</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ditto No. 2.</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Bouquetier_No_2">36</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Tidy Basket</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Tidy_Basket">37</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ladder Stitch Bag</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Ladder_Stitch_Bag">38</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Crossed Stitch ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Crossed_Stitch_Bag">39</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Netted ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Bag">40</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fringe</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Fringe">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Netted ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Fringe">41</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Scarf ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Scarf_Fringe">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Fringe</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Fringe_2">42</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Rug ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Rug_Fringe">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Carriage Rug</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Carriage_Rug">43</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Striped Purse</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Striped_Purse">44</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a>Chequered ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chequered_Purse">45</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Purse in Round Netting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Purse_in_Round_Netting">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Matrimony—For a Purse</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Matrimony">46</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Another</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Matrimony">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Annet Purse</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Annet_Purse">47</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Honeycomb Purse</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Honey-comb_Purse">48</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Another Honeycomb</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Honey-comb">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Netted Purse</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Purse">49</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Single Diamond Netting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Single_Diamond_Netting">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Treble ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Treble_Diamond_Netting">50</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Knitted Purse</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Knitted_Purse">52</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Stitches for Purses. No. 1.</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_1">53</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent4">Ditto. <span class="indent2">No. 2.</span></td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_2">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent4">Ditto. No. 3.</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_3">54</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent4">Ditto. No. 4.</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_4">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent4"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span>Ditto. No. 5.</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_5">55</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Stitches for Purses. No. 6</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_6">56</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent4">Ditto No. 7</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_7">57</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Bead Netting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Bead_Netting">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent2">Ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Bead_Netting_2">58</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Dice Knitting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Dice_Knitting">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Open Fan, for a Quilt</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Open_Fan_for_a_Quilt">60</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Gauffre Fans, for ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Gauffre_Fans_for_a_Quilt">62</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ribbed Squares, for ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Ribbed_Squares">64</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Open work Fan, for ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Open_work_Fan">65</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>An Open Border</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#An_open_Border">66</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Another Border</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Border">67</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>A Last Border, for a Quilt</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#A_Last_Border">68</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Grecian Border</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Grecian_Border">69</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Diamond Knitting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Diamond_Knitting">70</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Border for a Table Cover</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Border_for_a_Table_Cover">71</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Border and Fringe</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Border_and_Fringe">72</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Scarf for the Throat</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Scarf_for_the_Throat">73</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Scarf Edge</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Scarf_Edge">74</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Scarf</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Scarf">75</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Netted ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Scarf">76</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Porcupine Boa</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Porcupine_Boa">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Leggings</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Leggings">77</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Waistcoat</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Waistcoat">78</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Knitted ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Knitted_Waistcoat">79</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Warm Tippet</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Warm_Tippet">80</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Night Cap</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Night_Cap">82</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent2">Ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Night_Cap_2">83</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Lambs’-wool sleeve</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Lambs-wool_Sleeve">84</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Cephaline</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Cephaline">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Diamond Knitting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Diamond_Knitting_2">85</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Another ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Diamond_Knitting">87</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Small Feather Pattern</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Small_Feather_Pattern">89</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span>Double Eyelet Knitting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Double_Eyelet_Knitting">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Gouty Shoes</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Gouty_Shoes">90</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#To_increase_and_decrease">91</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Double Knitted Soles</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Double_Knitted_Soles">92</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Lambs’-wool Boot</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Lambs-wool_Boot">93</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Lambs-wool_Cap">94</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent2">Ditto Hat</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Hat">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent2">Ditto Stockings</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Stockings">95</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent2">Ditto Gaiters</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Gaiters">97</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent2">Ditto Spencer</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Spencer">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent2">Ditto Stays</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Stays">99</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="indent2">Ditto Socks</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Sock">101</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Netted Curtain</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Curtain">103</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Brioche</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Moorish_Brioche">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>A Blanket</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#A_Blanket">105</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Blanket in strips</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Blanket_in_strips">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Netted Lace</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Lace">106</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Puff Netting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Puff_Netting">107</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>A Cool Night-cap</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#A_Cool_Night-cap">ib.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Suspenders</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Suspenders">108</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Parisian Net Knitting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Parisian_Net_Knitting">110</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Diamond Knitting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Diamond_Knitting_3">112</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Four Patterns for Doyleys, &c.</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Four_Patterns">113</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Mazaniello Cap</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Mazaniello_Cap">115</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Muff</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Muff_in_Spots">117</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Ditto</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Muff">119</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Terms used in Knitting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#TERMS_USED_IN_KNITTING">120</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="THE_LADIES_KNITTING_AND_NETTING_BOOK" id="THE_LADIES_KNITTING_AND_NETTING_BOOK"></a>THE LADIES’ KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK.</h2> + +<p class="titlepage">SECOND SERIES.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Gentlemens_Knitted_Gloves" id="Gentlemens_Knitted_Gloves"></a><i>Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool.</p> + +<p>Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit +round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done +about one inch, continue with plain <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>knitting<a name="FNanchor_2-1_1" id="FNanchor_2-1_1" href="#Footnote_2-1_1" class="fnanchor">2-*</a> until your glove is +long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting +twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it +again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a +needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round +before and after the last increase; continue this until you have +stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except +those for the thumb, on two <i>other</i> needles; divide the stitches for the +thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the +join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted +needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your +needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset; +knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the +gusset: knit plain until the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> glove is long enough to begin the fingers; +begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as +you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and +21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the +first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset, +these may be decreased or not according to the size required.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Gloves" id="Netted_Gloves"></a><i>Netted Gloves.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk +fine.</p> + +<p>Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round, +putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run +the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by +netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next +stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round, +before and after<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for +rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the +stitches for the thumb <i>round</i>, when you have done 1 round decrease once +in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is +long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the +end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at +the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5 +rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds +according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16 +stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other +fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of +two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the +<i>finished</i> finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the +gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth. +Run a pattern on the back with flox silk.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Feather_Gloves" id="Feather_Gloves"></a><i>Feather Gloves.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required.</p> + +<p>Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit +round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half +an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton <i>round the needle</i>, and +knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the +ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain +and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring +the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by +knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the +centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and +repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches, +which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds +until the glove is long enough to begin to increase<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> for the thumb: +after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a +stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in +the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round, +continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9 +stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing, +knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the +thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, +knit 1 stitch, increase as before.</p> + +<p>When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st +needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a +stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease +twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next +round of the holes of the <i>pattern</i> you will have 17 stitches for the +thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease +twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2, +increase 1. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern +down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with +the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be +knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round, +take all the other stitches on 2 <i>other</i> needles, and knit the thumb +round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb +is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before, +take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and +continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd +stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if +you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease +the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle: +continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long <a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a>enough, begin +the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19; +knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when +you have done this finger, take<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> up 4 stitches for the gusset at the +bottom of the 1st finger,<a name="FNanchor_8-1_2" id="FNanchor_8-1_2" href="#Footnote_8-1_2" class="fnanchor">8-*</a> 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern. +The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19 +of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of +the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset +stitches.</p> + +<p>When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow +ribbon in the holes.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Plain_open_Mittens" id="Plain_open_Mittens"></a><i>Plain open Mittens.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No. +14, and moderately fine silk.</p> + +<p>Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the +ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next +round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following +stitches, complete the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> round, and net 2 rounds without increase. +Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which +you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches +every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make +the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made <i>over</i> each +other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net +the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together, +if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough +net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round, +taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the +fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of +the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the +mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the +thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can +be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_plain_Mitten" id="Another_plain_Mitten"></a><i>Another plain Mitten.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">On a smaller mesh than the preceding.</p> + +<p>Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 <i>rows</i> with the silk once +round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with +it once. Now begin to net <i>rounds</i> instead of <i>rows</i>, by netting the +last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches, +increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a +stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and +net another round without increase. Increase <i>outside</i> the last +additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional +stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase <i>within</i> the +additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time <i>within</i> the +last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the +stitch <i>over</i> the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding +stitch on the other side of the thumb, net<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> round the thumb (decreasing +to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by +netting 1 round with double silk <i>twice</i>, and 3 rounds with single silk +<i>once</i>, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the +side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2 +rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and +net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4 +rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done +on rather a finer mesh.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Annet_Mittens" id="Annet_Mittens"></a><i>Annet Mittens.</i></h3> + +<p>Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 <i>rows</i>; then net 1 row with the silk twice +round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net +<i>rounds</i> instead of <i>rows</i>. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk +passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the +2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of +the 1st,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the +4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat +these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the +silk twice round the <a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a>mesh. In the next round, which is like the second, +care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the +last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round +the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2 +stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk +passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1 +round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these +rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2 +stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further +back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting +from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4 +rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side <i>over</i> the last +additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> proceed to make the thumb as +directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net +1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next +round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the +last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the +silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the +alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Honey-comb_Mittens" id="Honey-comb_Mittens"></a><i>Honey-comb Mittens.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches.</p> + +<p>Net 3 <i>rows</i>. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows +once round the mesh; then begin netting in <i>rounds</i>. 1st round, for +every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch +once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net +the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the +3rd<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate +repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning +the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a +plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued +throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is +given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th, +net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again +2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in +which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more. +Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each +side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds, +and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease +if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with +double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round +twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom +of the thumb, add 1<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds +of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the +thumb.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Matrimony_Mittens" id="Matrimony_Mittens"></a><i>Matrimony Mittens.</i></h3> + +<p>The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last +mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As +this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The +mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches.</p> + +<p class="blockquot"><i>Note.</i>—It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens, +begin with <i>rows</i> instead of <i>rounds</i>, this is to prevent the +necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken +off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is +made on the other.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Lambs-wool_Mittens" id="Lambs-wool_Mittens"></a><i>Lambs’-wool Mittens.</i></h3> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p> + +<p class="material">This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up.</p> + +<p class="material2">Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of +an inch wide.</p> + +<p>Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net +2 rows with lambs’-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd. +Repeat these rows of lambs’-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of +the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same +back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, these +stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net +2 rows of lambs’-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of +silk, 2 rows of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, and 1 of silk. +All the rows of lambs’-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of +silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in +at the top of the first row of silk.</p> + +<p>This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Mitten_in_Round_Netting" id="Mitten_in_Round_Netting"></a><i>Mitten in Round Netting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14.</p> + +<p>Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round +netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice +round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking +care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you +give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2 +stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in +the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the +stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time); +increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each +increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several +rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be +joined together. Join the first and last stitches over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> the last added +stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit. +When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the +bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the +hand part of the mitten is long enough.</p> + +<p>If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a +round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next +round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Mittens" id="Mittens"></a><i>Mittens.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">With a leaf wreath round the top.</p> + +<p class="material2">Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required, +for instance brown and blue.</p> + +<p>Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one +round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2 +stitches bringing the silk forward between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> each, knit 3 stitches, +repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the +brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, +repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds +of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of +blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4 +brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4 +brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue, +4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4 +blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1 +round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same +reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds +decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward, +knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain +round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear; +then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14 +stitches on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before +until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as +before and finish with a brown round.</p> + +<p>Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes, +and finish with a brown round.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Feather_Mits" id="Feather_Mits"></a><i>Feather Mits.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going +to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambs’-wool +are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half +or a whole skein of wool.</p> + +<p>Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a +plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice; +decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the +centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3 +times; increase 3 times;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit +3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Cuffs_Peacock_Stitch" id="Cuffs_Peacock_Stitch"></a><i>Cuffs, Peacock Stitch.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are +required.</p> + +<p>Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches, +bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward +between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round. +Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull +the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2 +stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat +this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the +purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, +knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> +stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the +thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together, +repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the +cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Cuffs" id="Netted_Cuffs"></a><i>Netted Cuffs.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Four skeins of colored lambs’-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No. +14, a flat wooden mesh ½ an inch wide, and a foundation of 120 +stitches, are required.</p> + +<p>Net 2 rows of colored lambs’-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white +lambs’-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2 +white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number; +net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until +there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored +between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> stitches in +every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored.</p> + +<p>Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and +pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the +wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Warm_Cuffs" id="Warm_Cuffs"></a><i>Warm Cuffs.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles are required.</p> + +<p>Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles; +knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle; +rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2 +rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12 +rows as at first.</p> + +<p>Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Muffatees" id="Muffatees"></a><i>Muffatees.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.</p> + +<p>Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing +3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is +about six inches long, begin double knitting<a name="FNanchor_24-1_3" id="FNanchor_24-1_3" href="#Footnote_24-1_3" class="fnanchor">24-*</a> on coarser needles; +when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off; +sew up the part that is in double knitting.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Muffatees_2" id="Muffatees_2"></a><i>Muffatees.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color +may be varied at pleasure.</p> + +<p>Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these +rows, reckoning the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long +enough cast off and sew it up.</p> + +<p>These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Gentlemens_Muffatees" id="Gentlemens_Muffatees"></a><i>Gentlemen’s Muffatees.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambs’-wool and 4 of +white.</p> + +<p>Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2 +stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every +row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish +the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up.</p> + +<p>These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the +sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse +lambs’-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on +smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Cushion_Cover" id="Cushion_Cover"></a><i>Cushion Cover.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or +German lambs’-wool, white or colored, according to fancy.</p> + +<p>Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your +4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st +stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd, +the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an +odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next +needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd +stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the +next needle.</p> + +<p>When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square, +knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and +surround it with a cord or fringe.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Sofa_Pillow_Cover" id="Sofa_Pillow_Cover"></a><i>Sofa Pillow Cover.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four Needles No. 11.</p> + +<p>Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread +twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd +stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd +stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round +with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these +two rounds form the pattern.</p> + +<p class="top1">When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard) +cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Striped_Cushion_Cover" id="Striped_Cushion_Cover"></a><i>Striped Cushion Cover.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch +slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd, +the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is +the same.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Knitted_Mat_with_Fringe" id="Knitted_Mat_with_Fringe"></a><i>Knitted Mat with Fringe.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambs’-wool.</p> + +<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by +bringing the wool forward before <i>every</i> stitch every 3rd round, until +you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round, +increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 +round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round +increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round; +purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool +with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you +will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3½ +inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> lengths together and loop +in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the +needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third +finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit +of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the +left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next +round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round, +and cast off.</p> + +<p>Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round +before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1 +round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off.</p> + +<p>Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize +or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to +the edge of the card all round.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Mat" id="Netted_Mat"></a><i>Netted Mat.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">To put between plates.</p> + +<p>This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a ¼ of an inch +wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24 +rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the +mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie +it tight, (this is the centre).</p> + +<p>Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a +round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a +fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Knitted_Vase_Mat" id="Knitted_Vase_Mat"></a><i>Knitted Vase Mat.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles No. 14.</p> + +<p>This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very +pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15; +knit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a +point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in +the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former +vol.)</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Table_Mats" id="Table_Mats"></a><i>Table Mats.</i></h3> + +<p>These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces.</p> + +<p>Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the +2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the +cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be +repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to +prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit +16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you +knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn, +until you knit 18 and back again; cast off.</p> + +<p>End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> stitches, increase 1, knit to +within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of +the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to +leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind +and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time, +without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off.</p> + +<p>Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and +surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the +size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side +pieces.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Table_Mat" id="Table_Mat"></a><i>Table Mat.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">In one piece.</p> + +<p>Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21; +increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches; +increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> have 32 stitches; knit 8 +rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond, +decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The +size can be altered by varying the size of the pins.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Napkin_Ring" id="Napkin_Ring"></a><i>Napkin Ring.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather +fine pins.</p> + +<p>Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit +3 rounds, and cast off rather tight.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="A_Pence_Purse" id="A_Pence_Purse"></a><i>A Pence Purse, or Jug.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambs’-wool of +different colors, are required.</p> + +<p>Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and +forwards, in common <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop +6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third, +(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting +2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2, +rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped +stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until +within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2; +on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this +round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will +find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2 +alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner, +then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain +knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a +stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color, +knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and +knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> round and +3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4 +needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing +1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing +alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3 +rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape; +divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds +without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so, +until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted +needle, and sew down the handle.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Bouquetier_No_1" id="Bouquetier_No_1"></a><i>Bouquetier.</i> No. 1.</h3> + +<p class="material">You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist.</p> + +<p>Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round +knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> 44 or 48 +rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing +by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3; +and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round +bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each +needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain, +continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round) +until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th +needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib +alternate <i>rows</i>, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in +the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same +manner.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Bouquetier_No_2" id="Bouquetier_No_2"></a><i>Bouquetier.</i> No. 2.</h3> + +<p class="material">Four needles No. 14.</p> + +<p>Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches +alternately for 48 rounds.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> Then knit and rib alternate <i>rounds</i>, +increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until +you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit +backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1 +stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were +rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Tidy_Basket" id="Tidy_Basket"></a><i>Tidy Basket.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12.</p> + +<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4 +stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide +your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing +3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third. +Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3 +rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the +largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4 +stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle, +until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which +were left on the opposite side of the basket.</p> + +<p>Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and +fasten it to the bottom on the inside.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Ladder_Stitch_Bag" id="Ladder_Stitch_Bag"></a><i>Ladder Stitch Bag.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles No. 12.</p> + +<p>Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately; +and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following +rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12 +rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to +form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the +next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over +the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the +same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern +until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make +the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon +round the top.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Crossed_Stitch_Bag" id="Crossed_Stitch_Bag"></a><i>Crossed Stitch Bag.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles No. 12.</p> + +<p>Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the +needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the +1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the +same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the +needle.</p> + +<p>When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the +sides.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Bag" id="Netted_Bag"></a><i>Netted Bag.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">To hold the ball when knitting.</p> + +<p>These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of +course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are +very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh +should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring, +(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently +long.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Fringe" id="Fringe"></a><i>Fringe.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit +2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken +together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with +the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit +the remaining 6 plain; continue<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> these 2 rows until the fringe is the +length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel +the 6 stitches of plain knitting.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Fringe" id="Netted_Fringe"></a><i>Netted Fringe.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">To go round a bag.</p> + +<p>Net 300 stitches on a mesh ½ an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No. +15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row, +putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh. +Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe. +<i>Cut</i> it off of the foundation.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Scarf_Fringe" id="Scarf_Fringe"></a><i>Scarf Fringe.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk.</p> + +<p>Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 +taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the +silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2 +rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off +6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Fringe_2" id="Fringe_2"></a><i>Fringe.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and +knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken +together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a +sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the +fringe.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Rug_Fringe" id="Rug_Fringe"></a><i>Rug Fringe.</i></h3> + +<p>Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some +yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two +inches.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span></p> + +<p>Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of +yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right +hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until +within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is +plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat +these two rows.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Carriage_Rug" id="Carriage_Rug"></a><i>Carriage Rug.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and +some coarse <i>yarn</i> cut into lengths of about two inches.</p> + +<p>With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place +1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side; +knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the +needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end +and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the +row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the +strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another. +When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm +mat.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Striped_Purse" id="Striped_Purse"></a><i>Striped Purse.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide.</p> + +<p>Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in +the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it), +then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of +the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the +mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse +is wide enough.</p> + +<p>N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and +netted in shades of different colors.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Chequered_Purse" id="Chequered_Purse"></a><i>Chequered Purse.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares.</p> + +<p>Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6 +stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the +pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the +rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over +the brown, and the brown over the pink.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Purse_in_Round_Netting" id="Purse_in_Round_Netting"></a><i>Purse in Round Netting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide.</p> + +<p>Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch +(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed +under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Matrimony" id="Matrimony"></a><i>Matrimony.—For a Purse.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches.</p> + +<p>Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing +the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them +together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain +netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net +the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it +will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the +pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat +the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Matrimony" id="Another_Matrimony"></a><i>Another.</i></h3> + +<p>Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row, +passing the silk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,) +net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net +the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches +until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Annet_Purse" id="Annet_Purse"></a><i>Annet Purse.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches.</p> + +<p>Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd +row, pull the 1st stitch <i>through</i> the 2nd from the back, net it; pull +the 2nd stitch through the <i>middle</i> of the 1st, (taking care not to +twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th +through the <i>middle</i> of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the +end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain +before beginning the pattern.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Honey-comb_Purse" id="Honey-comb_Purse"></a><i>Honey-comb Purse.</i></h3> + +<p>On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd +stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to +half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning +it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the +row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain +before beginning the pattern.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Honey-comb" id="Another_Honey-comb"></a><i>Another Honey-comb.</i></h3> + +<p>On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round +the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the +1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches +together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to +the end of the row. Next row begin again.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Purse" id="Netted_Purse"></a><i>Netted Purse.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">In two colors.</p> + +<p>Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80 +or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate +stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this +change of color, every row is the same.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Single_Diamond_Netting" id="Single_Diamond_Netting"></a><i>Single Diamond Netting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a +purse four inches wide.</p> + +<p>Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once +round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on +alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch +once round the mesh,) draw<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> out the mesh, put it in one of the long +stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch; +the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds +until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead +of netting <i>round</i> the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The +1st stitch in the 1st <i>row</i> is once <i>round</i> the mesh, the 2nd twice, the +3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch +has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full +length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch. +When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net +round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round +the purse will be once round the mesh.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Treble_Diamond_Netting" id="Treble_Diamond_Netting"></a><i>Treble Diamond Netting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18.</p> + +<p>Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next <a name="corr4" id="corr4"></a>round<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> by putting the silk twice +round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once +round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed. +Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the +long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net +the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip +them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the +2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end +of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh. +Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1 +stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the +mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the +round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch; +repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st +round, viz.—1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the +silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough +to begin the opening,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> which should be begun in a round after that in +which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round +it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice +round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of +the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the +mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long +enough, begin to net in <i>rounds</i> instead of <i>rows</i>, taking care to make +the diamond stitches match.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Knitted_Purse" id="Knitted_Purse"></a><i>Knitted Purse.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four needles are required.</p> + +<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring +the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch, +knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken +together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round, +is the same as the 1st. 4th<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the +silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch, +knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all +round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_1" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_1"></a><i>Stitches for Purses.</i> No. 1.</h3> + +<p class="material">Four needles are required.</p> + +<p>Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In +beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,) +knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and +continue the same until the purse is long enough.</p> + + +<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_2" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_2"></a>No. 2.</p> + +<p class="material">With 2 needles.</p> + +<p>Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit +2 stitches and pass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat +the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike.</p> + + +<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_3" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_3"></a>No. 3.</p> + +<p class="material">With 2 needles.</p> + +<p>Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk +forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over +the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of +the row. Knit a plain row and begin again.</p> + + +<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_4" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_4"></a>No. 4.</p> + +<p class="material">On 2 needles.</p> + +<p>Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped +stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the +row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> pattern, but in the 3rd +row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the +pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over +the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by +knitting 1 stitch.</p> + +<p>This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of +each.</p> + + +<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_5" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_5"></a>No. 5.</p> + +<p class="material">Two needles.</p> + +<p>Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches +together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch, +rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of +the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when +you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the +last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the +1st row.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p> + + +<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_6" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_6"></a>No. 6.</p> + +<p class="material">Two needles.</p> + +<p>Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2 +stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the +1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last +stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick +up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and +knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after +twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the +thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch, +continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the +1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole +and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to +the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span></p> + + +<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_7" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_7"></a>No. 7.</p> + +<p>Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted +plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd +row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is +across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next +stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain +knitting. Begin again at the 1st row.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Bead_Netting" id="Bead_Netting"></a><i>Bead Netting.</i></h3> + +<p>Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to +where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot +and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and +the next row will fix these in their places.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Bead_Netting_2" id="Bead_Netting_2"></a><i>Bead Netting</i>,</h3> + +<p class="material">With the bead on the knot.</p> + +<p>Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row; +net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close +to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up +to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the +bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to +place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Dice_Knitting" id="Dice_Knitting"></a><i>Dice Knitting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">For a Purse.</p> + +<p>This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine +needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p> + +<p>Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until +you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd +row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass <i>that</i> silk round the +silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk +knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and +bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in +the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball +of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with +the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with +the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st +forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you +have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread +of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch +with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color, +knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and +continue the same for the rest of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> the 8 stitches, when you will find 2 +threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring +forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those +of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then +knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the +color again.</p> + +<p>This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles +and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on +both sides it does not require lining.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Open_Fan_for_a_Quilt" id="Open_Fan_for_a_Quilt"></a><i>Open Fan for a Quilt.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18.</p> + +<p>Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5, +decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left +hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side are +<i>always</i> knitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> +2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a +stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border +stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A +plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease, +purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row. +Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the +border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1, +knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the +slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, +knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these +stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the +rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The +last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until +14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still +decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in +the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last +stitch.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Gauffre_Fans_for_a_Quilt" id="Gauffre_Fans_for_a_Quilt"></a><i>Gauffre Fans for a Quilt.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row is +<i>slipped</i> throughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches, +counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60, +decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit +58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the +cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, +decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven +times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,<a name="FNanchor_62-1_4" id="FNanchor_62-1_4" href="#Footnote_62-1_4" class="fnanchor">62-*</a> +purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4, +decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit +1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. +ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1, +slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decrease 1, and knit the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> 4 last stitches. A +plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. +Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &c. ending the row with +knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, +purl 4, &c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, +bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, slip 2, +decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decreasing 1 stitch in +the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40, +decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and +so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2 +middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the +last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is made +<i>not</i> on that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every +other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting, +decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches, +knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Ribbed_Squares" id="Ribbed_Squares"></a><i>Ribbed Squares.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">For a Quilt.</p> + +<p>Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch +at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th +row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd, +increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th +row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row, +knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. +Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, +increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, +purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit +4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase +1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, +purl 2, knit 2, &c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit +2, purl 2, &c.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until +there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay +in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them +together.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Open_work_Fan" id="Open_work_Fan"></a><i>Open work Fan.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">For a Quilt.</p> + +<p>Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is +always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward +slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring +the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over +the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left +hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66, +knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, +slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted, +repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle, +decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit +2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped +stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before, +decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease +1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped +over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton +forward <i>before</i> slipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and +knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows, +decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that the <i>first</i> +slipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole) +until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as +before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the +cotton through the remaining stitch.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="An_open_Border" id="An_open_Border"></a><i>An open Border.</i></h3> + +<p>Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the +1st stitch, bring<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, +pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches +to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then +begin with the first row again.</p> + +<p>A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Border" id="Another_Border"></a><i>Another Border.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on any even number of stitches. Rib <i>each</i> row with the exception +of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When +you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border +stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2 +stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back +and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row +is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come +to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be +sure that your<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> pattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on +the wrong side, and 4 on the right.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="A_Last_Border" id="A_Last_Border"></a><i>A Last Border.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">For a Quilt.</p> + +<p class="material">Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton.</p> + +<p>Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second +stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and +3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which +knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you +were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the +right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to +be purled. Begin again at the 1st row.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Grecian_Border" id="Grecian_Border"></a><i>Grecian Border.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton.</p> + +<p>Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd +row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row, +the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row, +purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows +are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the <a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a>9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and +23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and +31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and +39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl +12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Diamond_Knitting" id="Diamond_Knitting"></a><i>Diamond Knitting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">For a Quilt Border.</p> + +<p>Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always +plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, +knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from +the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row, +knit the border stitches, and rib the rest; <i>every</i> back row is the +same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1 +stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches, +decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, +repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue +increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3 +stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the +diamond which you have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> made by increasing, and increase on each side +before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern +done to see how to proceed.</p> + +<p>Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you +have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease +the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your +greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Border_for_a_Table_Cover" id="Border_for_a_Table_Cover"></a><i>Border for a Table Cover.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip +a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a +stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to +knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to +begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in +length, then cast off.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p> + +<p>This border in crimson cotton or German lambs’-wool, is a nice finish to +a dark cloth cover.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Border_and_Fringe" id="Border_and_Fringe"></a><i>Border and Fringe.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl.</p> + +<p>Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd +color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the +1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2 +stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of +the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the +left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the +same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only +observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd. +After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again.</p> + +<p>When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for +the Fringe.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Scarf_for_the_Throat" id="Scarf_for_the_Throat"></a><i>Scarf for the Throat.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German Lambs’-wool.</p> + +<p>Cast on 86 <a name="corr6" id="corr6"></a>stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86 +cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course +of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing +for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and +also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence +the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2 +stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same +until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the +border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round +the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this +to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6, +rib 3, &c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. 5th +row; knit 4,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 6th row; rib 4, +increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3, +&c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &c. 9th row; knit 8, knit +2 together, rib 3, &c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &c. +11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &c. 12th row; +rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together, +knit 4, rib 3, &c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 15th +row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 16th row; rib 6, +increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second +pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough, +then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to +the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Scarf_Edge" id="Scarf_Edge"></a><i>Scarf Edge.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles and gold colored flox silk.</p> + +<p>Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken +together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 +taken together, knit 2 stitches.</p> + +<p>A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Scarf" id="Scarf"></a><i>Scarf.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles No. 7.</p> + +<p>Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a +stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib +1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same.</p> + +<p>This scarf takes about 2½ ounces of German lambs’-wool; it requires a +wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends, +which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the +desired color, beginning with the darkest.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Scarf" id="Netted_Scarf"></a><i>Netted Scarf.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">On a foundation of 54 stitches.</p> + +<p>Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet, +amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue, +amber, and scarlet.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Porcupine_Boa" id="Porcupine_Boa"></a><i>Porcupine Boa.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.</p> + +<p>Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool +forward, knit a stitch—this is the centre stitch of the pattern—bring +the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2 +taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the +4 stitches, &c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch +off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continue<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> this for +6 rounds, increasing <i>before</i> and <i>after</i> every centre stitch, and +knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the +next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain +rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2 +together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you +decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this +time.</p> + +<p>Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to +count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you +decrease.</p> + +<p>This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it +with cotton wool and put strings to it.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Leggings" id="Leggings"></a><i>Leggings.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two ivory needles and rather fine lambs’-wool are required.</p> + +<p>Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> inches, knitting and +ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and +increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60 +stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you +increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to +match the top. Sew them up.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Waistcoat" id="Waistcoat"></a><i>Waistcoat.</i></h3> + +<p class="titlepage">Large Size.</p> + +<p>Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows, +cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26 +stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14 +stitches, knit 38 rows.</p> + +<p class="titlepage">The Sleeve.</p> + +<p>Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves +a narrow bit to tack<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> to the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open +under the arm.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Knitted_Waistcoat" id="Knitted_Waistcoat"></a><i>Knitted Waistcoat.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows; +cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows, +cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows, +cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows.</p> + +<p class="titlepage">Sleeves.</p> + +<p>Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9 +rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for +19.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Warm_Tippet" id="Warm_Tippet"></a><i>Warm Tippet.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles, No. 11.</p> + +<p>Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2 +taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows, +then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions +of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and +knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther +each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer +stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards +receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have +now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6 +stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick +up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward, +slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end +of the row without any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> more increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches +in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the +increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1 +(instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows, +and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the +first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted +10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the +gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the +end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches +and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2 +stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset +again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the +gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of +stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the +thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip +another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> +together, bring the thread forward and go <a name="corr7" id="corr7"></a>on. In the next row, when you +come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3 +stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the +10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole +rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the +cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must +increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Night_Cap" id="Night_Cap"></a><i>Night Cap.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles.</p> + +<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each +needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam +in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other +round, until you have a sufficient number of stitches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> for the size of +your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until +your cap is ¾ of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning, +decreasing where you before increased.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Night_Cap_2" id="Night_Cap_2"></a><i>Night Cap.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">French Pattern.</p> + +<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4, +next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre +stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam +(leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle. +When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round +until the cap is ¾ of a yard long: make the end like the beginning.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Lambs-wool_Sleeve" id="Lambs-wool_Sleeve"></a><i>Lambs’-wool Sleeve.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the +sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve +is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser +lambs’-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and +finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Cephaline" id="Cephaline"></a><i>Cephaline.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms.</p> + +<p class="material2">A mesh ¾ of an inch wide and one ¼ that width are required. It +may be netted in flox silk or fine lambs’-wool.</p> + +<p>Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are +the middle rows).<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted +with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine +mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh +2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60, +and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a +narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on +the other side, beginning at the first narrow row.</p> + +<p>Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the +Cephaline is made.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Diamond_Knitting_2" id="Diamond_Knitting_2"></a><i>Diamond Knitting.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the +cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it, +knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton +forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain +round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> a stitch, knit 1, +pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken +together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11 +stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton +forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted +stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, +repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton +forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted +one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat +these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the +cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted +stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2 +together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, +slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat +these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another +round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond, +and decrease the other half diamond to a point.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Diamond_Knitting" id="Another_Diamond_Knitting"></a><i>Another Diamond Knitting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four needles are required.</p> + +<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the +thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, +knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken +together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, +knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull +the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this +all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 +and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, +bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain +round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the +slipped stitch over it, knit 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> taken together, bring the thread forward +knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together, +bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 +stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this +all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3 +stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the +slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward +and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see +you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and +you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle +stitches of the larger diamond are <i>always</i> plain knitting, and the 1st +decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Small_Feather_Pattern" id="Small_Feather_Pattern"></a><i>Small Feather Pattern.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty +for a purse or mitten.</p> + +<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the +thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, +thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice, +knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice, +increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds. +Repeat these 4 rounds.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Double_Eyelet_Knitting" id="Double_Eyelet_Knitting"></a><i>Double Eyelet Knitting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four needles are required.</p> + +<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the +thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together, +knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> stitch, repeat these 7 +stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Gouty_Shoes" id="Gouty_Shoes"></a><i>Gouty Shoes.</i></h3> + +<p>For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1 +stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20 +stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12 +rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4 +times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row; +twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch +in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease +3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row +until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off.</p> + +<p>This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles +No. 16.</p> + +<p>For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> needles No. 8, and coarse +lambs’-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25 +stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then +2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit +12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter. +Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards, +to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the +sole on the wrong side.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="To_increase_and_decrease" id="To_increase_and_decrease"></a><i>To increase and decrease in Double Knitting.</i></h3> + +<p>In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3 +rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the +1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd +row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you +come to the increase, knit 1<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> stitch, and pass the next upon another +needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from +the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that +you cannot increase less than two stitches at once.</p> + +<p>Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit +2 <i>knitting</i> stitches together passing the farther one over the +intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches +(instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2 <i>knitting</i> stitches will come together, +knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at +once.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Double_Knitted_Soles" id="Double_Knitted_Soles"></a><i>Double Knitted Soles.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">To wear in the shoes.</p> + +<p>Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches +in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24 +stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> stitches every 2 rows until you +have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20 +stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12 +stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the +remaining 4 stitches.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Lambs-wool_Boot" id="Lambs-wool_Boot"></a><i>Lambs’-wool Boot.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four ivory needles and coarse lambs’-wool are required.</p> + +<p>Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2 +ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured +lambs’-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease +in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows; +knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color, +1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> the lambs’-wool through +2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Lambs-wool_Cap" id="Babys_Lambs-wool_Cap"></a><i>Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in +double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in +depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3 +turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the +crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of +double knitting, and run a ribbon through it.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Hat" id="Babys_Hat"></a><i>Baby’s Hat.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Seven needles No. 16, are required.</p> + +<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round +increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> +increasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase. +Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1 +round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always +increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round, +until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds +alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round +increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit +and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the +1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13 +welts, and cast off.</p> + +<p>Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Stockings" id="Babys_Stockings"></a><i>Baby’s Stockings.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">With needles No. 15, and fine lambs’-wool.</p> + +<p>Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3 +rows increasing at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> the end of each. After this increase, at the end of +every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take +off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning +at the <i>sloping</i> side) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, +cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing. +When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10 +stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches, +increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but +two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain +rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches. +Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit +every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When +knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie +it round the ankle.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Gaiters" id="Babys_Gaiters"></a><i>Baby’s Gaiters.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the +end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row. +Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit +18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a +third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, +cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased +to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches +from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the +side and knit the <i>legging</i> as in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind +the foot with white ribbon.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Spencer" id="Babys_Spencer"></a><i>Baby’s Spencer.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Needles No. 14.</p> + +<p>Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In +the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> +middle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches +together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row +afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the +8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of +the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14 +stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make +the other to match it.</p> + +<p>The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th +row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six +times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of +the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a +stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are) +until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need +not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other +end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing +until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitches <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>backwards and +forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at +the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down +the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the +buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make +holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off.</p> + +<p>The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it +wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches +alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Stays" id="Babys_Stays"></a><i>Baby’s Stays.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambs’-wool. Needles No. 15.</p> + +<p>Cast on 204 stitches. The 6 <i>first</i> and <i>last</i> stitches are knitted +every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6. +Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the +last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> and, +instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit +and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row +(consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row. +Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast +off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit +the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 +stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the +rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the +12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with +the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and +rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest. +Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only +are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and +knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit +and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and +knit the rest. Rib and knit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> 12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches +backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of +the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on +strings.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Sock" id="Babys_Sock"></a><i>Baby’s Sock.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14, +and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.</p> + +<p>Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambs’-wool, +knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and +12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the +piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles. +Knit 6 <i>turns</i>, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have +only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting +1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel +in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you +have 60 stitches left. Decrease<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> 2 stitches in the middle, divide the +stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two +rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56 +round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit one <i>round</i> and +cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe.</p> + +<p>For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14 +stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding). +Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and +the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side +stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle +every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2 +rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up +a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34 +stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern +as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit +1 plain round adding a stitch after every third<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> stitch, making in all +64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches +alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in +front of the shoe.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Curtain" id="Netted_Curtain"></a><i>Netted Curtain.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">For a French Bed.</p> + +<p>With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the +curtain.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Moorish_Brioche" id="Moorish_Brioche"></a><i>Moorish Brioche or Cushion.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that +contrast well. Two needles, No. 12.</p> + +<p>Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by +this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a +stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the end<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> of the row. 2nd row: +bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with +the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop +and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6 +more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten +on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring +the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the +row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the +wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you +slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit +8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these +divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net +a fringe with double coarse lambs’-wool to the narrow part, and run in a +string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round +cushion, and cover it with the knitting.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="A_Blanket" id="A_Blanket"></a><i>A Blanket.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse.</p> + +<p>Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with +the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it, +knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you +will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only +difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it +together.</p> + +<p>These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Blanket_in_strips" id="Blanket_in_strips"></a><i>Blanket in strips.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern.</p> + +<p>Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows common<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> knitting; then begin double +knitting,<a name="FNanchor_106-1_5" id="FNanchor_106-1_5" href="#Footnote_106-1_5" class="fnanchor">106-*</a> knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border, +knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again; +continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty +if the squares are done in different colors.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Lace" id="Netted_Lace"></a><i>Netted Lace.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the +number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for. +216 will make about a yard.</p> + +<p>Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh ¼ of an inch wide, or a trifle wider, +net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the +next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the +row. Take the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> small mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a +single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Puff_Netting" id="Puff_Netting"></a><i>Puff Netting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Very pretty for caps.</p> + +<p>Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9 +stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net +3 rows, 1 stitch in <i>every</i> stitch. In the next row (which will make the +5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the +following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="A_Cool_Night-cap" id="A_Cool_Night-cap"></a><i>A Cool Night-cap.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Puff netting.</p> + +<p class="material">The mesh to be ¼ inch wide.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span></p> + +<p>Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the +4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this +all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch in <i>every</i> stitch. In the +next round take the 5 plain stitches as <i>one</i>, net 5 stitches, repeat +all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after +the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the +cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and +tie the top string tight.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Suspenders" id="Suspenders"></a><i>Suspenders.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles No. 16.</p> + +<p>Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the +thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on +another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is +long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> up the +other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the +thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double +knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the +needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2, +which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch +first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th +and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch. +Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were +going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right +hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled. +Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double +knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish +in a point.</p> + +<p>These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the +first series.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Parisian_Net_Knitting" id="Parisian_Net_Knitting"></a><i>Parisian Net Knitting.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">This pattern is very pretty for a foot-muff, blanket, or sofa +<a name="corr8" id="corr8"></a>guard.</p> + +<p class="material2">Take German lambs’-wool of two colors that contrast well; pink and +white form a pretty mixture.</p> + +<p>Cast on an even number of stitches, and with the white wool knit several +rows before beginning the pattern. 1st row; fasten on the pink wool +forward, knit the first stitch with the white wool, pass the pink round +the needle bringing it forward again, and purl the next stitch with it; +pass the purled stitch on to the left-hand needle and knit it with the +white wool, knit 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round the +needle, purl 1 stitch and pass it back on to the left-hand needle, knit +it and the following stitch with the white wool; continue the same to +the end of the row. 2nd row; purl the white stitches with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> white +wool, and slip the pink loops, taking care not to twist them or change +the side which is forward. 3rd row; knit the white stitches with the +white wool and slip the pink loops. 4th row; purl the 1st stitch with +the white wool, turn the pink wool (which is now behind) round the +needle, and with it knit the pink loop and following white stitch taken +together, slip the stitch on to the left hand needle and purl it with +the white wool, purl 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round +the needle, and knit with it the pink loop and following stitch taken +together, slip it on to the other needle and purl it with the white +wool, repeat the same to the end. 5th row; knit all the white stitches +with the white wool and slip the pink loops. 6th row; purl the white +stitches with the white wool and slip the pink. 7th row; knit 1 stitch +with the white wool, pass the pink wool (which is forward) round the +needle and with it purl the pink loop and following white stitch taken +together, observing to take the pink loop by the under side, slip the +stitch on to the left hand needle and knit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> it and the following white +stitch with the white wool; repeat the same to the end of the row: as +the 7th row takes the place of the 1st, continue with the 2nd row.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Diamond_Knitting_3" id="Diamond_Knitting_3"></a><i>Diamond Knitting.</i></h3> + +<p>Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. 1st round: knit 12 stitches, knit +2 taken together, and bring the cotton forward; repeat the same. 2nd +round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 9, knit 2 taken together and +bring the cotton forward, knit 1 and bring the cotton forward again. 3rd +round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, +bring the cotton forward, knit 3, and bring the cotton forward again. +4th round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 5, knit 2 taken +together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, and bring the cotton forward +again. 5th round: knit 2 taken together, knit 3, knit 2 taken together, +bring the cotton forward, knit 7, bring the cotton forward. 6th round: +knit 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> stitches taken together, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring +the cotton forward, knit 9, bring the cotton forward. 7th round: knit 3 +taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, bring the cotton +forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 4, bring the cotton forward. Begin +again.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Four_Patterns" id="Four_Patterns"></a><i>Four Patterns, for D’Oyleys, Toilet Covers, Baby’s Quilts, or Basket +Napkins.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Two needles, No. 22 or 23, and very fine knitting cotton.</p> + + +<h4 class="subpattern"><a name="DOyley_No_1" id="DOyley_No_1"></a>No. 1.</h4> + +<p>Cast on a number of stitches that will divide into an even number of +threes. <i>Knit and rib</i> 3 stitches alternately for 3 rounds. In the next +3 rounds, <i>rib and knit</i> 3 stitches alternately.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="subpattern"><a name="DOyley_No_2" id="DOyley_No_2"></a>No. 2.</h4> + +<p>Cast on a number of stitches as for the last pattern. Knit and rib 3 +stitches alternately for 2 rows. The following rows begin so as to bring +the first ribbed stitch over the last knitted: this is to make the +ribbed and knitted ridges go in diagonal stripes.</p> + + +<h4 class="subpattern"><a name="DOyley_No_3" id="DOyley_No_3"></a>No. 3.</h4> + +<p>Cast on a number of stitches that will divide by 10. Knit 1 stitch, rib +9, repeat the same to the end of the row. 2nd row: rib 1 stitch, knit 7, +rib 2. 3rd row: knit 3, rib 5, knit 2. 4th row: rib 3, knit 3, rib 4. +5th row: knit 5, rib 1, knit 4. 6th row: knit 4, rib 1, knit 5. 7th row: +rib 4, knit 3, rib 3. 8th row: knit 2, rib 5, knit 3. 9th row: rib 2, +knit 7, rib 1. 10th row: rib 9, knit 1. Begin again.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span></p> + + +<h4 class="subpattern"><a name="DOyley_No_4" id="DOyley_No_4"></a>No. 4.</h4> + +<p>Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row: knit every stitch with the +cotton twice round the needle. 2nd row: begin by dropping one twist of +the 1st stitch, knit the rest of this stitch with the 1st twist of the +next, taking them together; finish the row, knitting 2 threads taken +together, knit the last stitch. Begin again.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Mazaniello_Cap" id="Mazaniello_Cap"></a><i>Mazaniello Cap.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Four Needles,<br /> +And Wool of two colors which contrast well.</p> + +<p>Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row is purled. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch and +knit the row taking two stitches together to the last stitch which knit. +3rd row; slip the 1st stitch, purl the next, raise a loop between this +stitch and the next and purl it, repeat these 2 stitches to the end. 4th +row; knit plain. These 4 rows form one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> stripe of diamonds. Take the +second colored wool and purl 1 row, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows. +Repeat these 8 rows until you have 15 stripes of diamonds in each +colour: Cast off.</p> + +<p>Pick up 60 stitches on the side of the piece you have been knitting; (i. +e. 2 in each stripe of diamonds). Take first the 2nd color and +afterwards the 1st, and repeat the 4 rows as given above, until you have +7 stripes of one color and 6 of the other. Cast off loosely. This piece, +when the cap is finished is <i>wrong side</i> outwards as it is to be turned +up all round.</p> + +<p>To finish the crown, pick up 60 stitches on 3 needles and with the 2nd +color repeat the pattern, observing that its right side must be the +right side of the cap, (consequently the wrong side of the piece at the +bottom). In the 4th round reduce 1 stitch in every 4. Repeat the pattern +with the 1st colors. In the 4th round, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, +repeat to the end of the round. In the 4th round of the 3rd round of +diamonds reduce every other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> stitch. In the 4th round of the 4th round +of diamonds, thread a worsted needle with the wool and pass it through +all the stitches, draw them up tight and fasten off.</p> + +<p>The cap may be finished with a cord and tassel to match in colors, or +with a tassel only.</p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Muff_in_Spots" id="Muff_in_Spots"></a><i>Muff, in Spots or Stars.</i></h3> + +<p class="material2">Two wooden needles, No. 10, and for a small muff 1 ounce of blue +and 1 ounce of black fleecy. Double that quantity for a large size.</p> + +<p>For a small muff cast on 60 stitches, for a large one 84. The number +must divide into 3 equal numbers. Cast on the stitches with the black +wool, purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, (every 2nd row with the black wool must begin like this) +bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches pull the first over the 2 last, +repeat these 3 stitches to the end, when you will find you have one +stitch left, bring the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> wool forward and knit it. Join on the blue wool +and purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken together, +knit 2 stitches and pull the stitch in which you decreased over them, +(every 2nd blue row begins thus) bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches +pull the 1st over the 2 last, repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the +row. Use the black wool and repeat the whole. For a small muff do 21 +stripes of each color, for a large one 42. Cast off.</p> + +<p>To make up a small muff you must buy 5-8ths of gros-de-naples, 1½ oz. +of fine carded wool and 1 oz. of fine horse-hair. Double the silk in +halves and place on it 1 layer of wool. 1 layer of horse-hair and a +second layer of wool. Quilt these to one-half of the silk and fold the +other half over, and sew it to the knitted cover; turn the muff inside +out and sew up first the knitted part and then the silk. Finish the muff +at the edges by a cord or a quilling of ribbon.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span></p> + + +<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Muff" id="Another_Muff"></a><i>Another Muff.</i></h3> + +<p class="material">Two needles No. 10 and 3 skeins of coarse fleecy.</p> + +<p>Cast on sixty stitches. Knit 1 row; rib 1 row; knit 1 row taking 2 +stitches together all the way. 4th row; knit 1 stitch, pick up and knit +a loop between the stitches, continue the same to the end of the row. As +by this you would lose 1 stitch, this must be prevented by picking up +and knitting a loop alternately, before beginning or at the end of every +4th row.</p> + +<p>Make up the muff like the preceding pattern.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="TERMS_USED_IN_KNITTING" id="TERMS_USED_IN_KNITTING"></a>TERMS USED IN KNITTING.</h2> + + +<div class="hanging"> +<p><i>A turn</i> means two rows.</p> + +<p><i>To turn</i> means to change from plain to purled stitches, or the +reverse.</p> + +<p><i>A ridge</i> is formed by two rows when knitting with only two pins.</p> + +<p><i>A loop stitch</i> is formed by passing the thread before the needle, +and, in <i>knitting</i> the next stitch, letting it take its usual place.</p> + +<p><i>To increase in knitting a Quilt</i>, care should always be taken to +increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by +knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting +a second at the back.</p> + +<p><i>To fasten on in knitting.</i> It is a secure fastening to lay the two +ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them +both.</p> + +<p><i>To narrow</i> or <i>decrease</i> is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a +stocking.</p> + +<p><i>Ribbed stitch</i>, <i>purl stitch</i>, <i>turned</i>, or <i>seam stitch</i>, are all +terms having the same meaning. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> turned stitch is made by bringing +the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over +the upper cotton, it is put under.</p> + +<p><i>To slip</i>, <i>take off</i>, or <i>pass a stitch</i>, is to change it from one +needle to another without knitting it.</p> + +<p><i>To take under</i>, means to pass the right hand needle through the +stitch on the left hand one, so as still to keep the same side of +the stitch towards you.</p> + +<p><i>Welts</i> are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of +stockings, to prevent their rolling up.</p> + +<p><i>Cast off</i> means to end your work in the following manner: knit 2 +stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same +until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your +cotton through it.</p> + +<p><i>To decrease</i> is to lessen the number of stitches by knitting 2 taken +together.</p> + +<p><i>To increase</i>, or <i>make a double stitch</i>, is to knit one stitch in the +usual way, then, without slipping out the left hand needle, to pass +the thread forward and knit a second stitch,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> putting the needle +under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is +finished.</p> + +<p><i>Hang on</i>, means cast on.</p> + +<p><i>Bring the thread forward</i>, means to pass it between the needles +towards you.</p> + +<p><i>Cast over</i> is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters, to +signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express, +bring the cotton over the needle, quite round.</p> + +<p><i>Round the needle</i>, means the same as the last term.</p> + +<p><i>Reversed</i>, means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed +<i>over</i> the needle, and then carried back to its place.</p> + +<p><i>Together</i>, means knit 2 stitches in 1.</p> + +<p><i>Set</i>, or <i>Tuft</i>, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the +Fringes.</p> + +<p><i>To widen</i> means to increase.</p> +</div> + +<p>The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle <a name="corr9" id="corr9"></a>gauge, as I am +not aware there is any other rule for them.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_2-1_1" id="Footnote_2-1_1" href="#FNanchor_2-1_1" class="label">2-*</a> If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the +glove, or a pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or +more stitches.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_8-1_2" id="Footnote_8-1_2" href="#FNanchor_8-1_2" class="label">8-*</a> These stitches may be decreased again or not.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_24-1_3" id="Footnote_24-1_3" href="#FNanchor_24-1_3" class="label">24-*</a> Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip +a stitch, pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat +these 2 stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_62-1_4" id="Footnote_62-1_4" href="#FNanchor_62-1_4" class="label">62-*</a> In rows like this always keep the cotton before in +slipping a stitch.</p> + +<p><a name="Footnote_106-1_5" id="Footnote_106-1_5" href="#FNanchor_106-1_5" class="label">106-*</a> See Contents—Double Knitting. For a blanket it is +better to put the wool twice round the needle in the knitted stitches.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + +<p class="titlepage"><b>PUBLIC</b><br /> +<span class="size120">SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY,</span><br /> +BELGRAVE SQUARE.</p> + +<hr class="declong" /> + +<p class="titlepage">To this Library every New Work of Interest is<br /> +added on the day of Publication.</p> + +<p class="titlepage">TERMS:</p> + +<table summary="terms"> +<tr> + <td>Twelve months</td> + <td class="tdr">£5 5 0</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Six months</td> + <td class="tdr">3 3 0</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td>Three months</td> + <td class="tdr">1 16 0</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<hr class="declong" /> + +<p class="titlepage">CARD PLATES ENGRAVED & PRINTED.</p> + +<p class="titlepage">STATIONERY, &c.</p> + +<p class="titlepage"><b>Agent for the Early Supply of Newspapers.</b></p> + +<hr class="declong" /> + +<p class="right"><span class="padr2">JOHN MILAND,</span><br /> +<i>Chapel Street, Belgrave Square.</i></p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + +<div class="tn"> +<p class="titlepage"><a name="trans_note" id="trans_note"></a><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">The following errors have been maintained.</p> + +<table class="tntable" summary="typos"> +<tr> + <td class="tdr">Page</td> + <td>Error</td> + <td>Correction</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr1">ii</a></td> + <td>Chequed</td> + <td>Chequered</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr2">7</a></td> + <td>long enough.</td> + <td>long enough,</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr3">12</a></td> + <td>mesh, In</td> + <td>mesh. In</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr4">50</a></td> + <td>next round. by</td> + <td>next round by</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr5">69</a></td> + <td>the 9th,</td> + <td>the 9th.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr6">73</a></td> + <td>86 stiches;</td> + <td>86 stitches</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr7">82</a></td> + <td>and go on,</td> + <td>and go on.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr8">110</a></td> + <td>sofa guard.</td> + <td>sofa guard,</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr9">122</a></td> + <td>needle guage</td> + <td>needle gauge</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p class="noindent">The following words were inconsistently spelled:</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>D’Oyleys / Doyleys</li> + <li>Honey-comb / Honeycomb</li> +</ul> + +</div> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by +Miss Watts + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND *** + +***** This file should be named 33951-h.htm or 33951-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/9/5/33951/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book + +Author: Miss Watts + +Release Date: October 2, 2010 [EBook #33951] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + +TranscriberaEuro(TM)s Note + +Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled +and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. + + + + + THE LADIESaEuro(TM) + KNITTING AND NETTING + BOOK. + + SECOND SERIES. + + + + + THE LADIESaEuro(TM) KNITTING + AND NETTING + BOOK. + + + BY MISS WATTS. + + + SECOND SERIES. + + + Second Edition. + + ENTERED AT STATIONERSaEuro(TM) HALL. + + + LONDON: + JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET, + BELGRAVE SQUARE. + + 1840. + + + + + Lessons given in knitting and netting. + For terms and address, apply to the Publisher. + + + W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + PAGE + + GentlemenaEuro(TM)s Knitted Gloves 1 + Netted ditto 3 + Feather ditto 5 + Plain open Mittens 8 + Another Plain ditto 10 + Annet ditto 11 + Honeycomb ditto 13 + Matrimony ditto 15 + LambsaEuro(TM)-wool ditto ib. + Round Netted ditto 17 + Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top 18 + Feather Mits 20 + Cuffs, Peacock Stitch 21 + Netted Cuffs 22 + Warm ditto 23 + Muffatees 24 + Ditto ib. + GentlemenaEuro(TM)s ditto 25 + Cushion Cover 26 + Sofa Pillow ditto 27 + Striped Cushion ditto ib. + Knitted Mat, with Fringe 28 + Netted Mat 30 + Vase ditto ib. + Table mats 31 + Table ditto, in one piece 32 + Napkin Ring 33 + A Pence Purse, or Jug ib. + Bouquetier. No. 1. 35 + Ditto No. 2. 36 + Tidy Basket 37 + Ladder Stitch Bag 38 + Crossed Stitch ditto 39 + Netted ditto 40 + Fringe ib. + Netted ditto 41 + Scarf ditto ib. + Fringe 42 + Rug ditto ib. + Carriage Rug 43 + Striped Purse 44 + Chequered ditto 45 + Purse in Round Netting ib. + Matrimony--For a Purse 46 + Another ib. + Annet Purse 47 + Honeycomb Purse 48 + Another Honeycomb ib. + Netted Purse 49 + Single Diamond Netting ib. + Treble ditto 50 + Knitted Purse 52 + Stitches for Purses. No. 1. 53 + Ditto. No. 2. ib. + Ditto. No. 3. 54 + Ditto. No. 4. ib. + Ditto. No. 5. 55 + Stitches for Purses. No. 6 56 + Ditto No. 7 57 + Bead Netting ib. + Ditto 58 + Dice Knitting ib. + Open Fan, for a Quilt 60 + Gauffre Fans, for ditto 62 + Ribbed Squares, for ditto 64 + Open work Fan, for ditto 65 + An Open Border 66 + Another Border 67 + A Last Border, for a Quilt 68 + Grecian Border 69 + Diamond Knitting 70 + Border for a Table Cover 71 + Border and Fringe 72 + Scarf for the Throat 73 + Scarf Edge 74 + Scarf 75 + Netted ditto 76 + Porcupine Boa ib. + Leggings 77 + Waistcoat 78 + Knitted ditto 79 + Warm Tippet 80 + Night Cap 82 + Ditto 83 + LambsaEuro(TM)-wool sleeve 84 + Cephaline ib. + Diamond Knitting 85 + Another ditto 87 + Small Feather Pattern 89 + Double Eyelet Knitting ib. + Gouty Shoes 90 + To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting 91 + Double Knitted Soles 92 + LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Boot 93 + BabyaEuro(TM)s LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Cap 94 + Ditto Hat ib. + Ditto Stockings 95 + Ditto Gaiters 97 + Ditto Spencer ib. + Ditto Stays 99 + Ditto Socks 101 + Netted Curtain 103 + Brioche ib. + A Blanket 105 + Blanket in strips ib. + Netted Lace 106 + Puff Netting 107 + A Cool Night-cap ib. + Suspenders 108 + Parisian Net Knitting 110 + Diamond Knitting 112 + Four Patterns for Doyleys, &c. 113 + Mazaniello Cap 115 + Muff 117 + Ditto 119 + Terms used in Knitting 120 + + + + +THE LADIESaEuro(TM) KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK. + +SECOND SERIES. + + +_GentlemenaEuro(TM)s Knitted Gloves._ + + Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool. + +Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit +round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done +about one inch, continue with plain knitting[2-*] until your glove is +long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting +twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it +again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a +needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round +before and after the last increase; continue this until you have +stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except +those for the thumb, on two _other_ needles; divide the stitches for the +thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the +join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted +needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your +needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset; +knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the +gusset: knit plain until the glove is long enough to begin the fingers; +begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as +you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and +21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the +first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset, +these may be decreased or not according to the size required. + + [2-*] If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the glove, or a + pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or more + stitches. + + +_Netted Gloves._ + + The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk + fine. + +Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round, +putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run +the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by +netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next +stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round, +before and after where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for +rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the +stitches for the thumb _round_, when you have done 1 round decrease once +in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is +long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the +end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at +the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5 +rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds +according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16 +stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other +fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of +two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the +_finished_ finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the +gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth. +Run a pattern on the back with flox silk. + + +_Feather Gloves._ + + Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required. + +Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit +round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half +an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton _round the needle_, and +knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the +ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain +and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring +the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by +knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the +centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and +repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches, +which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds +until the glove is long enough to begin to increase for the thumb: +after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a +stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in +the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round, +continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9 +stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing, +knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the +thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, +knit 1 stitch, increase as before. + +When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st +needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a +stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease +twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next +round of the holes of the _pattern_ you will have 17 stitches for the +thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease +twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2, +increase 1. In future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern +down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with +the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be +knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round, +take all the other stitches on 2 _other_ needles, and knit the thumb +round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb +is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before, +take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and +continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd +stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if +you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease +the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle: +continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long enough, begin +the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19; +knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when +you have done this finger, take up 4 stitches for the gusset at the +bottom of the 1st finger,[8-*] 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern. +The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19 +of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of +the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset +stitches. + +When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow +ribbon in the holes. + + [8-*] These stitches may be decreased again or not. + + +_Plain open Mittens._ + + Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No. + 14, and moderately fine silk. + +Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the +ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next +round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following +stitches, complete the round, and net 2 rounds without increase. +Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which +you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches +every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make +the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made _over_ each +other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net +the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together, +if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough +net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round, +taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the +fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of +the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the +mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the +thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can +be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it. + + +_Another plain Mitten._ + + On a smaller mesh than the preceding. + +Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 _rows_ with the silk once +round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with +it once. Now begin to net _rounds_ instead of _rows_, by netting the +last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches, +increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a +stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and +net another round without increase. Increase _outside_ the last +additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional +stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase _within_ the +additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time _within_ the +last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the +stitch _over_ the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding +stitch on the other side of the thumb, net round the thumb (decreasing +to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by +netting 1 round with double silk _twice_, and 3 rounds with single silk +_once_, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the +side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2 +rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and +net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4 +rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done +on rather a finer mesh. + + +_Annet Mittens._ + +Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 _rows_; then net 1 row with the silk twice +round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net +_rounds_ instead of _rows_. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk +passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the +2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of +the 1st, net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the +4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat +these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the +silk twice round the mesh. In the next round, which is like the second, +care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the +last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round +the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2 +stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk +passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1 +round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these +rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2 +stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further +back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting +from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4 +rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side _over_ the last +additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and proceed to make the thumb as +directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net +1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next +round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the +last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the +silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the +alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb. + + +_Honey-comb Mittens._ + + Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches. + +Net 3 _rows_. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows +once round the mesh; then begin netting in _rounds_. 1st round, for +every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch +once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net +the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the +3rd plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate +repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning +the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a +plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued +throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is +given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th, +net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again +2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in +which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more. +Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each +side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds, +and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease +if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with +double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round +twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom +of the thumb, add 1 stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds +of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the +thumb. + + +_Matrimony Mittens._ + +The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last +mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As +this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The +mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches. + + _Note._--It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens, + begin with _rows_ instead of _rounds_, this is to prevent the + necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken + off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is + made on the other. + + +_LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Mittens._ + + This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up. + + Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of + an inch wide. + +Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net +2 rows with lambsaEuro(TM)-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd. +Repeat these rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of +the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same +back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, 1 of silk, these +stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net +2 rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of +silk, 2 rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, and 1 of silk. +All the rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of +silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in +at the top of the first row of silk. + +This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours. + + +_Mitten in Round Netting._ + + Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14. + +Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round +netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice +round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking +care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you +give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2 +stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in +the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the +stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time); +increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each +increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several +rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be +joined together. Join the first and last stitches over the last added +stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit. +When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the +bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the +hand part of the mitten is long enough. + +If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a +round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next +round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh. + + +_Mittens._ + + With a leaf wreath round the top. + + Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required, + for instance brown and blue. + +Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one +round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2 +stitches bringing the silk forward between each, knit 3 stitches, +repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the +brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, +repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds +of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of +blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4 +brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4 +brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue, +4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4 +blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1 +round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same +reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds +decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward, +knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain +round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear; +then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14 +stitches on the right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before +until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as +before and finish with a brown round. + +Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes, +and finish with a brown round. + + +_Feather Mits._ + + These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going + to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool + are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half + or a whole skein of wool. + +Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a +plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice; +decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the +centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3 +times; increase 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit +3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern. + + +_Cuffs, Peacock Stitch._ + + Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are + required. + +Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches, +bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward +between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round. +Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull +the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2 +stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat +this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the +purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, +knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 +stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the +thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together, +repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the +cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge. + + +_Netted Cuffs._ + + Four skeins of colored lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No. + 14, a flat wooden mesh 1/2 an inch wide, and a foundation of 120 + stitches, are required. + +Net 2 rows of colored lambsaEuro(TM)-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white +lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2 +white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number; +net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until +there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored +between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in +every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored. + +Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and +pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the +wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh. + + +_Warm Cuffs._ + + Two needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles; +knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle; +rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2 +rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12 +rows as at first. + +Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together. + + +_Muffatees._ + + Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required. + +Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing +3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is +about six inches long, begin double knitting[24-*] on coarser needles; +when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off; +sew up the part that is in double knitting. + + [24-*] Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip a stitch, + pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat these 2 + stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round. + + +_Muffatees._ + + Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color + may be varied at pleasure. + +Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these +rows, reckoning the cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long +enough cast off and sew it up. + +These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool. + + +_GentlemenaEuro(TM)s Muffatees._ + + Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and 4 of + white. + +Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2 +stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every +row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish +the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up. + +These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the +sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse +lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on +smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again. + + +_Cushion Cover._ + + This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or + German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, white or colored, according to fancy. + +Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your +4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st +stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd, +the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an +odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next +needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd +stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the +next needle. + +When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square, +knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and +surround it with a cord or fringe. + + +_Sofa Pillow Cover._ + + Four Needles No. 11. + +Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread +twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd +stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd +stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round +with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these +two rounds form the pattern. + +When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard) +cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe. + + +_Striped Cushion Cover._ + +Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch +slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd, +the 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is +the same. + + +_Knitted Mat with Fringe._ + + Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambsaEuro(TM)-wool. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by +bringing the wool forward before _every_ stitch every 3rd round, until +you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round, +increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 +round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round +increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round; +purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool +with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you +will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3-1/2 +inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the lengths together and loop +in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the +needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third +finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit +of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the +left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next +round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round, +and cast off. + +Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round +before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1 +round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off. + +Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize +or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to +the edge of the card all round. + + +_Netted Mat._ + + To put between plates. + +This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a 1/4 of an inch +wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24 +rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the +mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie +it tight, (this is the centre). + +Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a +round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a +fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure. + + +_Knitted Vase Mat._ + + Two needles No. 14. + +This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very +pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15; +knit 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a +point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in +the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former +vol.) + + +_Table Mats._ + +These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces. + +Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the +2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the +cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be +repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to +prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit +16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you +knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn, +until you knit 18 and back again; cast off. + +End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3 stitches, increase 1, knit to +within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of +the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to +leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind +and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time, +without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off. + +Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and +surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the +size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side +pieces. + + +_Table Mat._ + + In one piece. + +Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21; +increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches; +increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you have 32 stitches; knit 8 +rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond, +decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The +size can be altered by varying the size of the pins. + + +_Napkin Ring._ + + This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather + fine pins. + +Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit +3 rounds, and cast off rather tight. + + +_A Pence Purse, or Jug._ + + Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool of + different colors, are required. + +Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and +forwards, in common knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop +6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third, +(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting +2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2, +rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped +stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until +within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2; +on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this +round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will +find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2 +alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner, +then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain +knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a +stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color, +knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and +knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain round and +3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4 +needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing +1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing +alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3 +rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape; +divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds +without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so, +until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted +needle, and sew down the handle. + + +_Bouquetier._ No. 1. + + You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist. + +Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round +knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for 44 or 48 +rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing +by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3; +and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round +bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each +needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain, +continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round) +until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th +needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib +alternate _rows_, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in +the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same +manner. + + +_Bouquetier._ No. 2. + + Four needles No. 14. + +Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches +alternately for 48 rounds. Then knit and rib alternate _rounds_, +increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until +you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit +backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1 +stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were +rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point. + + +_Tidy Basket._ + + Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4 +stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide +your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing +3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third. +Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3 +rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the +largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain, and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4 +stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle, +until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which +were left on the opposite side of the basket. + +Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and +fasten it to the bottom on the inside. + + +_Ladder Stitch Bag._ + + Two needles No. 12. + +Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately; +and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following +rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12 +rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to +form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the +next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over +the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the +same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern +until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make +the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon +round the top. + + +_Crossed Stitch Bag._ + + Two needles No. 12. + +Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the +needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the +1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the +same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the +needle. + +When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the +sides. + + +_Netted Bag._ + + To hold the ball when knitting. + +These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of +course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are +very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh +should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring, +(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently +long. + + +_Fringe._ + +Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit +2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken +together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with +the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit +the remaining 6 plain; continue these 2 rows until the fringe is the +length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel +the 6 stitches of plain knitting. + + +_Netted Fringe._ + + To go round a bag. + +Net 300 stitches on a mesh 1/2 an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No. +15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row, +putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh. +Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe. +_Cut_ it off of the foundation. + + +_Scarf Fringe._ + + To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk. + +Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 +taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the +silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2 +rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off +6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted. + + +_Fringe._ + +Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and +knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken +together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a +sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the +fringe. + + +_Rug Fringe._ + +Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some +yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two +inches. + +Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of +yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right +hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until +within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is +plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat +these two rows. + + +_Carriage Rug._ + + Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and + some coarse _yarn_ cut into lengths of about two inches. + +With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place +1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side; +knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the +needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end +and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before +you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the +row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the +strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another. +When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm +mat. + + +_Striped Purse._ + + Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide. + +Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in +the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it), +then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of +the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the +mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse +is wide enough. + +N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and +netted in shades of different colors. + + +_Chequered Purse._ + + Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares. + +Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6 +stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the +pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the +rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over +the brown, and the brown over the pink. + + +_Purse in Round Netting._ + + Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide. + +Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch +(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed +under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch. + + +_Matrimony.--For a Purse._ + + Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches. + +Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing +the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them +together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain +netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net +the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it +will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the +pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat +the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch. + + +_Another._ + +Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row, +passing the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,) +net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net +the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches +until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row. + + +_Annet Purse._ + + Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches. + +Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd +row, pull the 1st stitch _through_ the 2nd from the back, net it; pull +the 2nd stitch through the _middle_ of the 1st, (taking care not to +twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th +through the _middle_ of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the +end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain +before beginning the pattern. + + +_Honey-comb Purse._ + +On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd +stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to +half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning +it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the +row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain +before beginning the pattern. + + +_Another Honey-comb._ + +On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round +the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the +1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches +together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to +the end of the row. Next row begin again. + + +_Netted Purse._ + + In two colors. + +Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80 +or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate +stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this +change of color, every row is the same. + + +_Single Diamond Netting._ + + On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a + purse four inches wide. + +Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once +round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on +alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch +once round the mesh,) draw out the mesh, put it in one of the long +stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch; +the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds +until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead +of netting _round_ the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The +1st stitch in the 1st _row_ is once _round_ the mesh, the 2nd twice, the +3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch +has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full +length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch. +When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net +round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round +the purse will be once round the mesh. + + +_Treble Diamond Netting._ + + On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18. + +Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next round by putting the silk twice +round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once +round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed. +Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the +long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net +the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip +them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the +2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end +of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh. +Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1 +stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the +mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the +round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch; +repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st +round, viz.--1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the +silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough +to begin the opening, which should be begun in a round after that in +which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round +it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice +round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of +the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the +mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long +enough, begin to net in _rounds_ instead of _rows_, taking care to make +the diamond stitches match. + + +_Knitted Purse._ + + Four needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring +the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch, +knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken +together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round, +is the same as the 1st. 4th round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the +silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch, +knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all +round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again. + + +_Stitches for Purses._ No. 1. + + Four needles are required. + +Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In +beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,) +knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and +continue the same until the purse is long enough. + + +No. 2. + + With 2 needles. + +Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit +2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat +the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike. + + +No. 3. + + With 2 needles. + +Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk +forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over +the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of +the row. Knit a plain row and begin again. + + +No. 4. + + On 2 needles. + +Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped +stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the +row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the pattern, but in the 3rd +row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the +pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over +the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by +knitting 1 stitch. + +This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of +each. + + +No. 5. + + Two needles. + +Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches +together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch, +rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of +the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when +you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the +last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the +1st row. + + +No. 6. + + Two needles. + +Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2 +stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the +1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last +stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick +up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and +knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after +twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the +thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch, +continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the +1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole +and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to +the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row. + + +No. 7. + +Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted +plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd +row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is +across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next +stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain +knitting. Begin again at the 1st row. + + +_Bead Netting._ + +Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to +where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot +and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and +the next row will fix these in their places. + + +_Bead Netting_, + + With the bead on the knot. + +Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row; +net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close +to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up +to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the +bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to +place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open. + + +_Dice Knitting._ + + For a Purse. + +This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine +needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk. + +Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until +you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd +row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass _that_ silk round the +silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk +knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and +bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in +the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball +of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with +the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with +the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st +forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you +have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread +of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch +with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color, +knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and +continue the same for the rest of the 8 stitches, when you will find 2 +threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring +forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those +of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then +knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the +color again. + +This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles +and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on +both sides it does not require lining. + + +_Open Fan for a Quilt._ + + Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18. + +Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5, +decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left +hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side are +_always_ knitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these +2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a +stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border +stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A +plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease, +purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row. +Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the +border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1, +knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the +slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, +knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these +stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the +rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The +last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until +14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still +decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in +the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last +stitch. + + +_Gauffre Fans for a Quilt._ + +Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row is +_slipped_ throughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches, +counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60, +decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit +58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the +cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, +decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven +times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,[62-*] +purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4, +decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit +1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. +ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1, +slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decrease 1, and knit the 4 last stitches. A +plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. +Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &c. ending the row with +knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, +purl 4, &c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, +bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, slip 2, +decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decreasing 1 stitch in +the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40, +decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and +so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2 +middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the +last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is made +_not_ on that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every +other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting, +decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches, +knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch. + + [62-*] In rows like this always keep the cotton before in slipping + a stitch. + + +_Ribbed Squares._ + + For a Quilt. + +Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch +at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th +row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd, +increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th +row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row, +knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. +Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, +increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, +purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit +4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase +1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, +purl 2, knit 2, &c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit +2, purl 2, &c. Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until +there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay +in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them +together. + + +_Open work Fan._ + + For a Quilt. + +Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is +always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward +slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring +the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over +the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left +hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66, +knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, +slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted, +repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle, +decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit +2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped +stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before, +decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease +1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped +over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton +forward _before_ slipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and +knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows, +decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that the _first_ +slipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole) +until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as +before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the +cotton through the remaining stitch. + + +_An open Border._ + +Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the +1st stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch, +pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches +to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then +begin with the first row again. + +A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement. + + +_Another Border._ + +Cast on any even number of stitches. Rib _each_ row with the exception +of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When +you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border +stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2 +stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back +and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row +is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come +to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be +sure that your pattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on +the wrong side, and 4 on the right. + + +_A Last Border._ + +For a Quilt. + + Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton. + +Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second +stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and +3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which +knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you +were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the +right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to +be purled. Begin again at the 1st row. + + +_Grecian Border._ + + Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton. + +Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd +row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row, +the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row, +purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows +are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the 9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and +23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and +31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and +39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl +12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row. + + +_Diamond Knitting._ + + For a Quilt Border. + +Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always +plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, +knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from +the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row, +knit the border stitches, and rib the rest; _every_ back row is the +same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1 +stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches, +decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, +repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue +increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3 +stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the +diamond which you have made by increasing, and increase on each side +before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern +done to see how to proceed. + +Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you +have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease +the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your +greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5. + + +_Border for a Table Cover._ + +Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip +a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a +stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to +knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to +begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in +length, then cast off. + +This border in crimson cotton or German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, is a nice finish to +a dark cloth cover. + + +_Border and Fringe._ + + In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl. + +Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd +color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the +1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2 +stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of +the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the +left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the +same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only +observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd. +After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again. + +When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for +the Fringe. + + +_Scarf for the Throat._ + + It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German LambsaEuro(TM)-wool. + +Cast on 86 stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86 +cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course +of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing +for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and +also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence +the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2 +stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same +until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the +border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round +the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this +to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6, +rib 3, &c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. 5th +row; knit 4, take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 6th row; rib 4, +increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3, +&c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &c. 9th row; knit 8, knit +2 together, rib 3, &c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &c. +11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &c. 12th row; +rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together, +knit 4, rib 3, &c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 15th +row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 16th row; rib 6, +increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second +pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough, +then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to +the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends. + + +_Scarf Edge._ + + Two needles and gold colored flox silk. + +Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken +together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 +taken together, knit 2 stitches. + +A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern. + + +_Scarf._ + + Two needles No. 7. + +Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a +stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib +1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same. + +This scarf takes about 2-1/2 ounces of German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool; it requires a +wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends, +which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the +desired color, beginning with the darkest. + + +_Netted Scarf._ + + On a foundation of 54 stitches. + +Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet, +amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue, +amber, and scarlet. + + +_Porcupine Boa._ + + Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required. + +Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool +forward, knit a stitch--this is the centre stitch of the pattern--bring +the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2 +taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the +4 stitches, &c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch +off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continue this for +6 rounds, increasing _before_ and _after_ every centre stitch, and +knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the +next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain +rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2 +together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you +decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this +time. + +Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to +count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you +decrease. + +This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it +with cotton wool and put strings to it. + + +_Leggings._ + + Two ivory needles and rather fine lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required. + +Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2 inches, knitting and +ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and +increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60 +stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you +increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to +match the top. Sew them up. + + +_Waistcoat._ + + Large Size. + +Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows, +cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26 +stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14 +stitches, knit 38 rows. + + The Sleeve. + +Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves +a narrow bit to tack to the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open +under the arm. + + +_Knitted Waistcoat._ + +Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows; +cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows, +cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows, +cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows. + + Sleeves. + +Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9 +rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for +19. + + +_Warm Tippet._ + + Two needles, No. 11. + +Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2 +taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows, +then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions +of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and +knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther +each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer +stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards +receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have +now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6 +stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick +up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward, +slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end +of the row without any more increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches +in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the +increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1 +(instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows, +and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the +first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted +10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the +gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the +end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches +and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2 +stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset +again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the +gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of +stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the +thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip +another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitches +together, bring the thread forward and go on. In the next row, when you +come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3 +stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the +10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole +rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the +cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must +increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased. + + +_Night Cap._ + + With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each +needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam +in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other +round, until you have a sufficient number of stitches for the size of +your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until +your cap is 3/4 of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning, +decreasing where you before increased. + + +_Night Cap._ + + French Pattern. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4, +next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre +stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam +(leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle. +When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round +until the cap is 3/4 of a yard long: make the end like the beginning. + + +_LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Sleeve._ + +Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the +sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve +is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser +lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and +finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half. + + +_Cephaline._ + + To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms. + + A mesh 3/4 of an inch wide and one 1/4 that width are required. It + may be netted in flox silk or fine lambsaEuro(TM)-wool. + +Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are +the middle rows). Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted +with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine +mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh +2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60, +and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a +narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on +the other side, beginning at the first narrow row. + +Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the +Cephaline is made. + + +_Diamond Knitting._ + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the +cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it, +knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton +forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain +round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, +pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken +together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11 +stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton +forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted +stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3, +repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton +forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted +one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat +these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the +cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted +stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2 +together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, +slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat +these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another +round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond, +and decrease the other half diamond to a point. + + +_Another Diamond Knitting._ + + Four needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the +thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, +knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken +together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, +knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull +the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this +all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 +and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, +bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain +round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the +slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward +knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread +forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit +4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together, +bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 +stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this +all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3 +stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the +slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward +and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see +you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and +you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle +stitches of the larger diamond are _always_ plain knitting, and the 1st +decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond. + + +_Small Feather Pattern._ + + As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty + for a purse or mitten. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the +thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, +thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice, +knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice, +increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds. +Repeat these 4 rounds. + + +_Double Eyelet Knitting._ + + Four needles are required. + +Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the +thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together, +knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1 stitch, repeat these 7 +stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds. + + +_Gouty Shoes._ + +For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1 +stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20 +stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12 +rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4 +times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row; +twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch +in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease +3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row +until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off. + +This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles +No. 16. + +For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, with needles No. 8, and coarse +lambsaEuro(TM)-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25 +stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then +2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit +12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter. +Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards, +to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the +sole on the wrong side. + + +_To increase and decrease in Double Knitting._ + +In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3 +rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the +1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd +row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you +come to the increase, knit 1 stitch, and pass the next upon another +needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from +the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that +you cannot increase less than two stitches at once. + +Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit +2 _knitting_ stitches together passing the farther one over the +intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches +(instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2 _knitting_ stitches will come together, +knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at +once. + + +_Double Knitted Soles._ + + To wear in the shoes. + +Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches +in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24 +stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2 stitches every 2 rows until you +have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20 +stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12 +stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the +remaining 4 stitches. + + +_LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Boot._ + + Four ivory needles and coarse lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required. + +Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2 +ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured +lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease +in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows; +knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color, +1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawing the lambsaEuro(TM)-wool through +2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom. + + +_BabyaEuro(TM)s LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Cap._ + +Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in +double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in +depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3 +turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the +crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of +double knitting, and run a ribbon through it. + + +_BabyaEuro(TM)s Hat._ + + Seven needles No. 16, are required. + +Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round +increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round +increasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase. +Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1 +round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always +increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round, +until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds +alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round +increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit +and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the +1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13 +welts, and cast off. + +Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape. + + +_BabyaEuro(TM)s Stockings._ + + With needles No. 15, and fine lambsaEuro(TM)-wool. + +Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3 +rows increasing at the end of each. After this increase, at the end of +every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take +off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning +at the _sloping_ side) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, +cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing. +When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10 +stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches, +increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but +two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain +rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches. +Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit +every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When +knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie +it round the ankle. + + +_BabyaEuro(TM)s Gaiters._ + +Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the +end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row. +Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit +18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a +third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges, +cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased +to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches +from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the +side and knit the _legging_ as in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind +the foot with white ribbon. + + +_BabyaEuro(TM)s Spencer._ + + Needles No. 14. + +Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In +the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in the +middle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches +together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row +afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the +8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of +the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14 +stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make +the other to match it. + +The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th +row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six +times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of +the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a +stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are) +until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need +not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other +end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing +until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitches backwards and +forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at +the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down +the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the +buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make +holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off. + +The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it +wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches +alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows. + + +_BabyaEuro(TM)s Stays._ + + To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambsaEuro(TM)-wool. Needles No. 15. + +Cast on 204 stitches. The 6 _first_ and _last_ stitches are knitted +every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6. +Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the +last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches, and, +instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit +and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row +(consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row. +Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast +off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit +the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 +stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the +rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the +12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with +the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and +rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest. +Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only +are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and +knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit +and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and +knit the rest. Rib and knit 12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches +backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of +the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on +strings. + + +_BabyaEuro(TM)s Sock._ + + To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14, + and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required. + +Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, +knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and +12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the +piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles. +Knit 6 _turns_, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have +only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting +1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel +in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you +have 60 stitches left. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle, divide the +stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two +rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56 +round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit one _round_ and +cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe. + +For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14 +stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding). +Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and +the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side +stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle +every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2 +rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up +a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34 +stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern +as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit +1 plain round adding a stitch after every third stitch, making in all +64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches +alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in +front of the shoe. + + +_Netted Curtain._ + + For a French Bed. + +With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the +curtain. + + +_Moorish Brioche or Cushion._ + + Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that + contrast well. Two needles, No. 12. + +Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by +this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a +stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 2nd row: +bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with +the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop +and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6 +more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten +on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring +the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the +row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the +wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you +slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit +8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these +divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net +a fringe with double coarse lambsaEuro(TM)-wool to the narrow part, and run in a +string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round +cushion, and cover it with the knitting. + + +_A Blanket._ + + Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse. + +Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with +the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it, +knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you +will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only +difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it +together. + +These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty. + + +_Blanket in strips._ + + Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern. + +Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows common knitting; then begin double +knitting,[106-*] knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border, +knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again; +continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty +if the squares are done in different colors. + + [106-*] See Contents--Double Knitting. For a blanket it is better + to put the wool twice round the needle in the knitted stitches. + + +_Netted Lace._ + + Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the + number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for. + 216 will make about a yard. + +Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh 1/4 of an inch wide, or a trifle wider, +net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the +next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the +row. Take the small mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a +single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh. + + +_Puff Netting._ + + Very pretty for caps. + +Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9 +stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net +3 rows, 1 stitch in _every_ stitch. In the next row (which will make the +5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the +following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again. + + +_A Cool Night-cap._ + + Puff netting. + + The mesh to be 1/4 inch wide. + +Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the +4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this +all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch in _every_ stitch. In the +next round take the 5 plain stitches as _one_, net 5 stitches, repeat +all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after +the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the +cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and +tie the top string tight. + + +_Suspenders._ + + Two needles No. 16. + +Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the +thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on +another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is +long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knit up the +other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the +thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double +knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the +needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2, +which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch +first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th +and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch. +Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were +going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right +hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled. +Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double +knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish +in a point. + +These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the +first series. + + +_Parisian Net Knitting._ + + This pattern is very pretty for a foot-muff, blanket, or sofa + guard. + + Take German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool of two colors that contrast well; pink and + white form a pretty mixture. + +Cast on an even number of stitches, and with the white wool knit several +rows before beginning the pattern. 1st row; fasten on the pink wool +forward, knit the first stitch with the white wool, pass the pink round +the needle bringing it forward again, and purl the next stitch with it; +pass the purled stitch on to the left-hand needle and knit it with the +white wool, knit 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round the +needle, purl 1 stitch and pass it back on to the left-hand needle, knit +it and the following stitch with the white wool; continue the same to +the end of the row. 2nd row; purl the white stitches with the white +wool, and slip the pink loops, taking care not to twist them or change +the side which is forward. 3rd row; knit the white stitches with the +white wool and slip the pink loops. 4th row; purl the 1st stitch with +the white wool, turn the pink wool (which is now behind) round the +needle, and with it knit the pink loop and following white stitch taken +together, slip the stitch on to the left hand needle and purl it with +the white wool, purl 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round +the needle, and knit with it the pink loop and following stitch taken +together, slip it on to the other needle and purl it with the white +wool, repeat the same to the end. 5th row; knit all the white stitches +with the white wool and slip the pink loops. 6th row; purl the white +stitches with the white wool and slip the pink. 7th row; knit 1 stitch +with the white wool, pass the pink wool (which is forward) round the +needle and with it purl the pink loop and following white stitch taken +together, observing to take the pink loop by the under side, slip the +stitch on to the left hand needle and knit it and the following white +stitch with the white wool; repeat the same to the end of the row: as +the 7th row takes the place of the 1st, continue with the 2nd row. + + +_Diamond Knitting._ + +Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. 1st round: knit 12 stitches, knit +2 taken together, and bring the cotton forward; repeat the same. 2nd +round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 9, knit 2 taken together and +bring the cotton forward, knit 1 and bring the cotton forward again. 3rd +round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together, +bring the cotton forward, knit 3, and bring the cotton forward again. +4th round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 5, knit 2 taken +together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, and bring the cotton forward +again. 5th round: knit 2 taken together, knit 3, knit 2 taken together, +bring the cotton forward, knit 7, bring the cotton forward. 6th round: +knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring +the cotton forward, knit 9, bring the cotton forward. 7th round: knit 3 +taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, bring the cotton +forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 4, bring the cotton forward. Begin +again. + + +_Four Patterns, for DaEuro(TM)Oyleys, Toilet Covers, BabyaEuro(TM)s Quilts, or Basket +Napkins._ + + Two needles, No. 22 or 23, and very fine knitting cotton. + + +No. 1. + +Cast on a number of stitches that will divide into an even number of +threes. _Knit and rib_ 3 stitches alternately for 3 rounds. In the next +3 rounds, _rib and knit_ 3 stitches alternately. + + +No. 2. + +Cast on a number of stitches as for the last pattern. Knit and rib 3 +stitches alternately for 2 rows. The following rows begin so as to bring +the first ribbed stitch over the last knitted: this is to make the +ribbed and knitted ridges go in diagonal stripes. + + +No. 3. + +Cast on a number of stitches that will divide by 10. Knit 1 stitch, rib +9, repeat the same to the end of the row. 2nd row: rib 1 stitch, knit 7, +rib 2. 3rd row: knit 3, rib 5, knit 2. 4th row: rib 3, knit 3, rib 4. +5th row: knit 5, rib 1, knit 4. 6th row: knit 4, rib 1, knit 5. 7th row: +rib 4, knit 3, rib 3. 8th row: knit 2, rib 5, knit 3. 9th row: rib 2, +knit 7, rib 1. 10th row: rib 9, knit 1. Begin again. + + +No. 4. + +Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row: knit every stitch with the +cotton twice round the needle. 2nd row: begin by dropping one twist of +the 1st stitch, knit the rest of this stitch with the 1st twist of the +next, taking them together; finish the row, knitting 2 threads taken +together, knit the last stitch. Begin again. + + +_Mazaniello Cap._ + + Four Needles, + And Wool of two colors which contrast well. + +Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row is purled. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch and +knit the row taking two stitches together to the last stitch which knit. +3rd row; slip the 1st stitch, purl the next, raise a loop between this +stitch and the next and purl it, repeat these 2 stitches to the end. 4th +row; knit plain. These 4 rows form one stripe of diamonds. Take the +second colored wool and purl 1 row, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows. +Repeat these 8 rows until you have 15 stripes of diamonds in each +colour: Cast off. + +Pick up 60 stitches on the side of the piece you have been knitting; +(i. e. 2 in each stripe of diamonds). Take first the 2nd color and +afterwards the 1st, and repeat the 4 rows as given above, until you have +7 stripes of one color and 6 of the other. Cast off loosely. This piece, +when the cap is finished is _wrong side_ outwards as it is to be turned +up all round. + +To finish the crown, pick up 60 stitches on 3 needles and with the 2nd +color repeat the pattern, observing that its right side must be the +right side of the cap, (consequently the wrong side of the piece at the +bottom). In the 4th round reduce 1 stitch in every 4. Repeat the pattern +with the 1st colors. In the 4th round, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, +repeat to the end of the round. In the 4th round of the 3rd round of +diamonds reduce every other stitch. In the 4th round of the 4th round +of diamonds, thread a worsted needle with the wool and pass it through +all the stitches, draw them up tight and fasten off. + +The cap may be finished with a cord and tassel to match in colors, or +with a tassel only. + + +_Muff, in Spots or Stars._ + + Two wooden needles, No. 10, and for a small muff 1 ounce of blue + and 1 ounce of black fleecy. Double that quantity for a large size. + +For a small muff cast on 60 stitches, for a large one 84. The number +must divide into 3 equal numbers. Cast on the stitches with the black +wool, purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches +taken together, (every 2nd row with the black wool must begin like this) +bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches pull the first over the 2 last, +repeat these 3 stitches to the end, when you will find you have one +stitch left, bring the wool forward and knit it. Join on the blue wool +and purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken together, +knit 2 stitches and pull the stitch in which you decreased over them, +(every 2nd blue row begins thus) bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches +pull the 1st over the 2 last, repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the +row. Use the black wool and repeat the whole. For a small muff do 21 +stripes of each color, for a large one 42. Cast off. + +To make up a small muff you must buy 5-8ths of gros-de-naples, 1-1/2 oz. +of fine carded wool and 1 oz. of fine horse-hair. Double the silk in +halves and place on it 1 layer of wool. 1 layer of horse-hair and a +second layer of wool. Quilt these to one-half of the silk and fold the +other half over, and sew it to the knitted cover; turn the muff inside +out and sew up first the knitted part and then the silk. Finish the muff +at the edges by a cord or a quilling of ribbon. + + +_Another Muff._ + + Two needles No. 10 and 3 skeins of coarse fleecy. + +Cast on sixty stitches. Knit 1 row; rib 1 row; knit 1 row taking 2 +stitches together all the way. 4th row; knit 1 stitch, pick up and knit +a loop between the stitches, continue the same to the end of the row. As +by this you would lose 1 stitch, this must be prevented by picking up +and knitting a loop alternately, before beginning or at the end of every +4th row. + +Make up the muff like the preceding pattern. + + + + +TERMS USED IN KNITTING. + + + _A turn_ means two rows. + + _To turn_ means to change from plain to purled stitches, or the + reverse. + + _A ridge_ is formed by two rows when knitting with only two pins. + + _A loop stitch_ is formed by passing the thread before the needle, + and, in _knitting_ the next stitch, letting it take its usual place. + + _To increase in knitting a Quilt_, care should always be taken to + increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by + knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting + a second at the back. + + _To fasten on in knitting._ It is a secure fastening to lay the two + ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them + both. + + _To narrow_ or _decrease_ is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a + stocking. + + _Ribbed stitch_, _purl stitch_, _turned_, or _seam stitch_, are all + terms having the same meaning. A turned stitch is made by bringing + the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over + the upper cotton, it is put under. + + _To slip_, _take off_, or _pass a stitch_, is to change it from one + needle to another without knitting it. + + _To take under_, means to pass the right hand needle through the + stitch on the left hand one, so as still to keep the same side of + the stitch towards you. + + _Welts_ are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of + stockings, to prevent their rolling up. + + _Cast off_ means to end your work in the following manner: knit 2 + stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same + until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your + cotton through it. + + _To decrease_ is to lessen the number of stitches by knitting 2 taken + together. + + _To increase_, or _make a double stitch_, is to knit one stitch in the + usual way, then, without slipping out the left hand needle, to pass + the thread forward and knit a second stitch, putting the needle + under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is + finished. + + _Hang on_, means cast on. + + _Bring the thread forward_, means to pass it between the needles + towards you. + + _Cast over_ is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters, to + signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express, + bring the cotton over the needle, quite round. + + _Round the needle_, means the same as the last term. + + _Reversed_, means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed + _over_ the needle, and then carried back to its place. + + _Together_, means knit 2 stitches in 1. + + _Set_, or _Tuft_, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the + Fringes. + + _To widen_ means to increase. + +The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle gauge, as I am +not aware there is any other rule for them. + + + + + =PUBLIC= + SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY, + BELGRAVE SQUARE. + + To this Library every New Work of Interest is + added on the day of Publication. + + TERMS: + + Twelve months AL5 5 0 + Six months 3 3 0 + Three months 1 16 0 + + CARD PLATES ENGRAVED & PRINTED. + + STATIONERY, &c. + + =Agent for the Early Supply of Newspapers.= + + JOHN MILAND, + _Chapel Street, Belgrave Square._ + + + + +TranscriberaEuro(TM)s Note + + +The following typographical errors were corrected: + + Page Error + ii Chequed changed to Chequered + 7 long enough. changed to long enough, + 12 mesh, In changed to mesh. In + 50 next round. by changed to next round by + 69 the 9th, changed to the 9th. + 73 86 stiches; changed to 86 stitches + 82 and go on, changed to and go on. + 110 sofa guard. changed to sofa guard, + 122 needle guage changed to needle gauge + +The following words were inconsistently spelled: + + DaEuro(TM)Oyleys / Doyleys + Honey-comb / Honeycomb + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by +Miss Watts + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND *** + +***** This file should be named 33951.txt or 33951.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/9/5/33951/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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