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+Project Gutenberg's The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by Miss Watts
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book
+
+Author: Miss Watts
+
+Release Date: October 2, 2010 [EBook #33951]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber’s Note
+
+Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections
+is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and
+hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled
+and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.
+
+
+
+
+  THE LADIES’
+  KNITTING AND NETTING
+  BOOK.
+
+  SECOND SERIES.
+
+
+
+
+  THE LADIES’ KNITTING
+  AND NETTING
+  BOOK.
+
+
+  BY MISS WATTS.
+
+
+  SECOND SERIES.
+
+
+  Second Edition.
+
+  ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL.
+
+
+  LONDON:
+  JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET,
+  BELGRAVE SQUARE.
+
+  1840.
+
+
+
+
+  Lessons given in knitting and netting.
+  For terms and address, apply to the Publisher.
+
+
+  W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                              PAGE
+
+  Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves                     1
+  Netted ditto                                   3
+  Feather ditto                                  5
+  Plain open Mittens                             8
+  Another Plain ditto                           10
+  Annet ditto                                   11
+  Honeycomb ditto                               13
+  Matrimony ditto                               15
+  Lambs’-wool ditto                            ib.
+  Round Netted ditto                            17
+  Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top      18
+  Feather Mits                                  20
+  Cuffs, Peacock Stitch                         21
+  Netted Cuffs                                  22
+  Warm ditto                                    23
+  Muffatees                                     24
+  Ditto                                        ib.
+  Gentlemen’s ditto                             25
+  Cushion Cover                                 26
+  Sofa Pillow ditto                             27
+  Striped Cushion ditto                        ib.
+  Knitted Mat, with Fringe                      28
+  Netted Mat                                    30
+  Vase ditto                                   ib.
+  Table mats                                    31
+  Table ditto, in one piece                     32
+  Napkin Ring                                   33
+  A Pence Purse, or Jug                        ib.
+  Bouquetier. No. 1.                            35
+    Ditto     No. 2.                            36
+  Tidy Basket                                   37
+  Ladder Stitch Bag                             38
+  Crossed Stitch ditto                          39
+  Netted ditto                                  40
+  Fringe                                       ib.
+  Netted ditto                                  41
+  Scarf ditto                                  ib.
+  Fringe                                        42
+  Rug ditto                                    ib.
+  Carriage Rug                                  43
+  Striped Purse                                 44
+  Chequered ditto                               45
+  Purse in Round Netting                       ib.
+  Matrimony--For a Purse                        46
+  Another                                      ib.
+  Annet Purse                                   47
+  Honeycomb Purse                               48
+  Another Honeycomb                            ib.
+  Netted Purse                                  49
+  Single Diamond Netting                       ib.
+  Treble ditto                                  50
+  Knitted Purse                                 52
+  Stitches for Purses. No. 1.                   53
+        Ditto.         No. 2.                  ib.
+        Ditto.         No. 3.                   54
+        Ditto.         No. 4.                  ib.
+        Ditto.         No. 5.                   55
+  Stitches for Purses. No. 6                    56
+        Ditto          No. 7                    57
+  Bead Netting                                 ib.
+    Ditto                                       58
+  Dice Knitting                                ib.
+  Open Fan, for a Quilt                         60
+  Gauffre Fans, for ditto                       62
+  Ribbed Squares, for ditto                     64
+  Open work Fan, for ditto                      65
+  An Open Border                                66
+  Another Border                                67
+  A Last Border, for a Quilt                    68
+  Grecian Border                                69
+  Diamond Knitting                              70
+  Border for a Table Cover                      71
+  Border and Fringe                             72
+  Scarf for the Throat                          73
+  Scarf Edge                                    74
+  Scarf                                         75
+  Netted ditto                                  76
+  Porcupine Boa                                ib.
+  Leggings                                      77
+  Waistcoat                                     78
+  Knitted ditto                                 79
+  Warm Tippet                                   80
+  Night Cap                                     82
+    Ditto                                       83
+  Lambs’-wool sleeve                            84
+  Cephaline                                    ib.
+  Diamond Knitting                              85
+  Another ditto                                 87
+  Small Feather Pattern                         89
+  Double Eyelet Knitting                       ib.
+  Gouty Shoes                                   90
+  To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting   91
+  Double Knitted Soles                          92
+  Lambs’-wool Boot                              93
+  Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap                        94
+    Ditto Hat                                  ib.
+    Ditto Stockings                             95
+    Ditto Gaiters                               97
+    Ditto Spencer                              ib.
+    Ditto Stays                                 99
+    Ditto Socks                                101
+  Netted Curtain                               103
+  Brioche                                      ib.
+  A Blanket                                    105
+  Blanket in strips                            ib.
+  Netted Lace                                  106
+  Puff Netting                                 107
+  A Cool Night-cap                             ib.
+  Suspenders                                   108
+  Parisian Net Knitting                        110
+  Diamond Knitting                             112
+  Four Patterns for Doyleys, &c.               113
+  Mazaniello Cap                               115
+  Muff                                         117
+  Ditto                                        119
+  Terms used in Knitting                       120
+
+
+
+
+THE LADIES’ KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK.
+
+SECOND SERIES.
+
+
+_Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves._
+
+     Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool.
+
+Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit
+round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done
+about one inch, continue with plain knitting[2-*] until your glove is
+long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting
+twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it
+again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a
+needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round
+before and after the last increase; continue this until you have
+stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except
+those for the thumb, on two _other_ needles; divide the stitches for the
+thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the
+join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted
+needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your
+needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset;
+knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the
+gusset: knit plain until the glove is long enough to begin the fingers;
+begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as
+you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and
+21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the
+first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset,
+these may be decreased or not according to the size required.
+
+     [2-*] If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the glove, or a
+     pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or more
+     stitches.
+
+
+_Netted Gloves._
+
+     The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk
+     fine.
+
+Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round,
+putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run
+the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by
+netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next
+stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round,
+before and after where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for
+rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the
+stitches for the thumb _round_, when you have done 1 round decrease once
+in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is
+long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the
+end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at
+the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5
+rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds
+according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16
+stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other
+fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of
+two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the
+_finished_ finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the
+gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth.
+Run a pattern on the back with flox silk.
+
+
+_Feather Gloves._
+
+     Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required.
+
+Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit
+round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half
+an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton _round the needle_, and
+knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the
+ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain
+and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring
+the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by
+knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the
+centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and
+repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches,
+which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds
+until the glove is long enough to begin to increase for the thumb:
+after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a
+stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in
+the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round,
+continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9
+stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing,
+knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the
+thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch,
+knit 1 stitch, increase as before.
+
+When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st
+needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a
+stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease
+twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next
+round of the holes of the _pattern_ you will have 17 stitches for the
+thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease
+twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2,
+increase 1. In future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern
+down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with
+the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be
+knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round,
+take all the other stitches on 2 _other_ needles, and knit the thumb
+round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb
+is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before,
+take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and
+continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd
+stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if
+you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease
+the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle:
+continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long enough, begin
+the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19;
+knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when
+you have done this finger, take up 4 stitches for the gusset at the
+bottom of the 1st finger,[8-*] 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern.
+The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19
+of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of
+the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset
+stitches.
+
+When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow
+ribbon in the holes.
+
+     [8-*] These stitches may be decreased again or not.
+
+
+_Plain open Mittens._
+
+     Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No.
+     14, and moderately fine silk.
+
+Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the
+ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next
+round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following
+stitches, complete the round, and net 2 rounds without increase.
+Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which
+you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches
+every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make
+the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made _over_ each
+other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net
+the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together,
+if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough
+net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round,
+taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the
+fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of
+the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the
+mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the
+thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can
+be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it.
+
+
+_Another plain Mitten._
+
+     On a smaller mesh than the preceding.
+
+Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 _rows_ with the silk once
+round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with
+it once. Now begin to net _rounds_ instead of _rows_, by netting the
+last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches,
+increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a
+stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and
+net another round without increase. Increase _outside_ the last
+additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional
+stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase _within_ the
+additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time _within_ the
+last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the
+stitch _over_ the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding
+stitch on the other side of the thumb, net round the thumb (decreasing
+to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by
+netting 1 round with double silk _twice_, and 3 rounds with single silk
+_once_, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the
+side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2
+rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and
+net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4
+rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done
+on rather a finer mesh.
+
+
+_Annet Mittens._
+
+Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 _rows_; then net 1 row with the silk twice
+round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net
+_rounds_ instead of _rows_. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk
+passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the
+2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of
+the 1st, net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the
+4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat
+these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the
+silk twice round the mesh. In the next round, which is like the second,
+care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the
+last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round
+the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2
+stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk
+passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1
+round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these
+rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2
+stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further
+back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting
+from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4
+rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side _over_ the last
+additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and proceed to make the thumb as
+directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net
+1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next
+round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the
+last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the
+silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the
+alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb.
+
+
+_Honey-comb Mittens._
+
+     Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches.
+
+Net 3 _rows_. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows
+once round the mesh; then begin netting in _rounds_. 1st round, for
+every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch
+once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net
+the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the
+3rd plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate
+repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning
+the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a
+plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued
+throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is
+given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th,
+net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again
+2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in
+which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more.
+Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each
+side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds,
+and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease
+if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with
+double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round
+twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom
+of the thumb, add 1 stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds
+of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the
+thumb.
+
+
+_Matrimony Mittens._
+
+The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last
+mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As
+this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The
+mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches.
+
+     _Note._--It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens,
+     begin with _rows_ instead of _rounds_, this is to prevent the
+     necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken
+     off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is
+     made on the other.
+
+
+_Lambs’-wool Mittens._
+
+     This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up.
+
+     Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of
+     an inch wide.
+
+Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net
+2 rows with lambs’-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd.
+Repeat these rows of lambs’-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of
+the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same
+back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, these
+stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net
+2 rows of lambs’-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of
+silk, 2 rows of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, and 1 of silk.
+All the rows of lambs’-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of
+silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in
+at the top of the first row of silk.
+
+This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours.
+
+
+_Mitten in Round Netting._
+
+     Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14.
+
+Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round
+netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice
+round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking
+care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you
+give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2
+stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in
+the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the
+stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time);
+increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each
+increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several
+rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be
+joined together. Join the first and last stitches over the last added
+stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit.
+When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the
+bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the
+hand part of the mitten is long enough.
+
+If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a
+round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next
+round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh.
+
+
+_Mittens._
+
+     With a leaf wreath round the top.
+
+     Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required,
+     for instance brown and blue.
+
+Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one
+round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2
+stitches bringing the silk forward between each, knit 3 stitches,
+repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the
+brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds
+of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of
+blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4
+brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4
+brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue,
+4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4
+blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1
+round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same
+reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds
+decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward,
+knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain
+round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear;
+then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14
+stitches on the right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before
+until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as
+before and finish with a brown round.
+
+Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes,
+and finish with a brown round.
+
+
+_Feather Mits._
+
+     These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going
+     to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambs’-wool
+     are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half
+     or a whole skein of wool.
+
+Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a
+plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice;
+decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the
+centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3
+times; increase 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit
+3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern.
+
+
+_Cuffs, Peacock Stitch._
+
+     Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are
+     required.
+
+Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches,
+bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward
+between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round.
+Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
+the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2
+stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat
+this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the
+purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2
+stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the
+thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the
+cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge.
+
+
+_Netted Cuffs._
+
+     Four skeins of colored lambs’-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No.
+     14, a flat wooden mesh 1/2 an inch wide, and a foundation of 120
+     stitches, are required.
+
+Net 2 rows of colored lambs’-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white
+lambs’-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2
+white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number;
+net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until
+there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored
+between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in
+every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored.
+
+Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and
+pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the
+wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh.
+
+
+_Warm Cuffs._
+
+     Two needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles;
+knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle;
+rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2
+rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12
+rows as at first.
+
+Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together.
+
+
+_Muffatees._
+
+     Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing
+3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is
+about six inches long, begin double knitting[24-*] on coarser needles;
+when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off;
+sew up the part that is in double knitting.
+
+     [24-*] Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip a stitch,
+     pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat these 2
+     stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round.
+
+
+_Muffatees._
+
+     Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color
+     may be varied at pleasure.
+
+Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these
+rows, reckoning the cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long
+enough cast off and sew it up.
+
+These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool.
+
+
+_Gentlemen’s Muffatees._
+
+     Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambs’-wool and 4 of
+     white.
+
+Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2
+stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every
+row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish
+the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up.
+
+These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the
+sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse
+lambs’-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on
+smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again.
+
+
+_Cushion Cover._
+
+     This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or
+     German lambs’-wool, white or colored, according to fancy.
+
+Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your
+4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st
+stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd,
+the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an
+odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next
+needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd
+stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the
+next needle.
+
+When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square,
+knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and
+surround it with a cord or fringe.
+
+
+_Sofa Pillow Cover._
+
+     Four Needles No. 11.
+
+Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread
+twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd
+stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd
+stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round
+with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these
+two rounds form the pattern.
+
+When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard)
+cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe.
+
+
+_Striped Cushion Cover._
+
+Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch
+slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd,
+the 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is
+the same.
+
+
+_Knitted Mat with Fringe._
+
+     Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambs’-wool.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by
+bringing the wool forward before _every_ stitch every 3rd round, until
+you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round,
+increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1
+round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round
+increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round;
+purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool
+with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you
+will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3-1/2
+inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the lengths together and loop
+in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the
+needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third
+finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit
+of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the
+left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next
+round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round,
+and cast off.
+
+Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round
+before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1
+round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off.
+
+Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize
+or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to
+the edge of the card all round.
+
+
+_Netted Mat._
+
+     To put between plates.
+
+This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a 1/4 of an inch
+wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24
+rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the
+mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie
+it tight, (this is the centre).
+
+Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a
+round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a
+fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure.
+
+
+_Knitted Vase Mat._
+
+     Two needles No. 14.
+
+This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very
+pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15;
+knit 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a
+point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in
+the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former
+vol.)
+
+
+_Table Mats._
+
+These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces.
+
+Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the
+2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the
+cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be
+repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to
+prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit
+16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you
+knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn,
+until you knit 18 and back again; cast off.
+
+End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3 stitches, increase 1, knit to
+within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of
+the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to
+leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind
+and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time,
+without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off.
+
+Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and
+surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the
+size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side
+pieces.
+
+
+_Table Mat._
+
+     In one piece.
+
+Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21;
+increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches;
+increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you have 32 stitches; knit 8
+rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond,
+decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The
+size can be altered by varying the size of the pins.
+
+
+_Napkin Ring._
+
+     This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather
+     fine pins.
+
+Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit
+3 rounds, and cast off rather tight.
+
+
+_A Pence Purse, or Jug._
+
+     Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambs’-wool of
+     different colors, are required.
+
+Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and
+forwards, in common knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop
+6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third,
+(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting
+2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2,
+rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped
+stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until
+within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2;
+on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this
+round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will
+find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2
+alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner,
+then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain
+knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a
+stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color,
+knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and
+knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain round and
+3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4
+needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing
+1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing
+alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3
+rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape;
+divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds
+without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so,
+until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted
+needle, and sew down the handle.
+
+
+_Bouquetier._ No. 1.
+
+     You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist.
+
+Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round
+knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for 44 or 48
+rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing
+by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3;
+and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round
+bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each
+needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain,
+continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round)
+until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th
+needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib
+alternate _rows_, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in
+the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same
+manner.
+
+
+_Bouquetier._ No. 2.
+
+     Four needles No. 14.
+
+Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches
+alternately for 48 rounds. Then knit and rib alternate _rounds_,
+increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until
+you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit
+backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1
+stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were
+rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point.
+
+
+_Tidy Basket._
+
+     Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4
+stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide
+your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing
+3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third.
+Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3
+rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the
+largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain, and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4
+stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle,
+until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which
+were left on the opposite side of the basket.
+
+Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and
+fasten it to the bottom on the inside.
+
+
+_Ladder Stitch Bag._
+
+     Two needles No. 12.
+
+Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately;
+and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following
+rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12
+rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to
+form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the
+next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over
+the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the
+same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern
+until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make
+the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon
+round the top.
+
+
+_Crossed Stitch Bag._
+
+     Two needles No. 12.
+
+Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the
+needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the
+1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the
+same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the
+needle.
+
+When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the
+sides.
+
+
+_Netted Bag._
+
+     To hold the ball when knitting.
+
+These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of
+course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are
+very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh
+should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring,
+(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently
+long.
+
+
+_Fringe._
+
+Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit
+2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with
+the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit
+the remaining 6 plain; continue these 2 rows until the fringe is the
+length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel
+the 6 stitches of plain knitting.
+
+
+_Netted Fringe._
+
+     To go round a bag.
+
+Net 300 stitches on a mesh 1/2 an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No.
+15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row,
+putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh.
+Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe.
+_Cut_ it off of the foundation.
+
+
+_Scarf Fringe._
+
+     To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk.
+
+Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
+taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the
+silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2
+rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off
+6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted.
+
+
+_Fringe._
+
+Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and
+knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken
+together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a
+sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the
+fringe.
+
+
+_Rug Fringe._
+
+Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some
+yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two
+inches.
+
+Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of
+yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right
+hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until
+within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is
+plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat
+these two rows.
+
+
+_Carriage Rug._
+
+     Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and
+     some coarse _yarn_ cut into lengths of about two inches.
+
+With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place
+1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side;
+knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the
+needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end
+and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before
+you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the
+row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the
+strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another.
+When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm
+mat.
+
+
+_Striped Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide.
+
+Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in
+the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it),
+then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of
+the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the
+mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse
+is wide enough.
+
+N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and
+netted in shades of different colors.
+
+
+_Chequered Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares.
+
+Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6
+stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the
+pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the
+rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over
+the brown, and the brown over the pink.
+
+
+_Purse in Round Netting._
+
+     Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide.
+
+Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch
+(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed
+under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch.
+
+
+_Matrimony.--For a Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches.
+
+Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing
+the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them
+together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain
+netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net
+the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it
+will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the
+pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat
+the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch.
+
+
+_Another._
+
+Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row,
+passing the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,)
+net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net
+the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches
+until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row.
+
+
+_Annet Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches.
+
+Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd
+row, pull the 1st stitch _through_ the 2nd from the back, net it; pull
+the 2nd stitch through the _middle_ of the 1st, (taking care not to
+twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th
+through the _middle_ of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the
+end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain
+before beginning the pattern.
+
+
+_Honey-comb Purse._
+
+On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd
+stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to
+half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning
+it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the
+row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain
+before beginning the pattern.
+
+
+_Another Honey-comb._
+
+On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round
+the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the
+1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches
+together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to
+the end of the row. Next row begin again.
+
+
+_Netted Purse._
+
+     In two colors.
+
+Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80
+or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate
+stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this
+change of color, every row is the same.
+
+
+_Single Diamond Netting._
+
+     On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a
+     purse four inches wide.
+
+Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once
+round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on
+alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch
+once round the mesh,) draw out the mesh, put it in one of the long
+stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch;
+the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds
+until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead
+of netting _round_ the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The
+1st stitch in the 1st _row_ is once _round_ the mesh, the 2nd twice, the
+3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch
+has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full
+length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch.
+When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net
+round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round
+the purse will be once round the mesh.
+
+
+_Treble Diamond Netting._
+
+     On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18.
+
+Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next round by putting the silk twice
+round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once
+round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed.
+Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the
+long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net
+the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip
+them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the
+2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end
+of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh.
+Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1
+stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the
+mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the
+round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch;
+repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st
+round, viz.--1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the
+silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough
+to begin the opening, which should be begun in a round after that in
+which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round
+it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice
+round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of
+the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the
+mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long
+enough, begin to net in _rounds_ instead of _rows_, taking care to make
+the diamond stitches match.
+
+
+_Knitted Purse._
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring
+the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken
+together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round,
+is the same as the 1st. 4th round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the
+silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch,
+knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all
+round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again.
+
+
+_Stitches for Purses._ No. 1.
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In
+beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,)
+knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and
+continue the same until the purse is long enough.
+
+
+No. 2.
+
+     With 2 needles.
+
+Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit
+2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat
+the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike.
+
+
+No. 3.
+
+     With 2 needles.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over
+the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of
+the row. Knit a plain row and begin again.
+
+
+No. 4.
+
+     On 2 needles.
+
+Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped
+stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the
+row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the pattern, but in the 3rd
+row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the
+pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over
+the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by
+knitting 1 stitch.
+
+This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of
+each.
+
+
+No. 5.
+
+     Two needles.
+
+Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches
+together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch,
+rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of
+the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when
+you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the
+last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the
+1st row.
+
+
+No. 6.
+
+     Two needles.
+
+Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2
+stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the
+1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last
+stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick
+up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and
+knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after
+twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the
+thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch,
+continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the
+1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole
+and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to
+the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row.
+
+
+No. 7.
+
+Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted
+plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd
+row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is
+across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next
+stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain
+knitting. Begin again at the 1st row.
+
+
+_Bead Netting._
+
+Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to
+where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot
+and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and
+the next row will fix these in their places.
+
+
+_Bead Netting_,
+
+     With the bead on the knot.
+
+Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row;
+net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close
+to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up
+to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the
+bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to
+place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open.
+
+
+_Dice Knitting._
+
+     For a Purse.
+
+This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine
+needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk.
+
+Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until
+you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd
+row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass _that_ silk round the
+silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk
+knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and
+bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in
+the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball
+of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with
+the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with
+the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st
+forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you
+have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread
+of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch
+with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color,
+knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and
+continue the same for the rest of the 8 stitches, when you will find 2
+threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring
+forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those
+of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then
+knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the
+color again.
+
+This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles
+and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on
+both sides it does not require lining.
+
+
+_Open Fan for a Quilt._
+
+     Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18.
+
+Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5,
+decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left
+hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side are
+_always_ knitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these
+2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a
+stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border
+stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A
+plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease,
+purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row.
+Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the
+border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1,
+knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the
+slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1,
+knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these
+stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the
+rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The
+last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until
+14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still
+decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in
+the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last
+stitch.
+
+
+_Gauffre Fans for a Quilt._
+
+Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row is
+_slipped_ throughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches,
+counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60,
+decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit
+58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the
+cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4,
+decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven
+times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,[62-*]
+purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4,
+decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit
+1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c.
+ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1,
+slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decrease 1, and knit the 4 last stitches. A
+plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row.
+Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &c. ending the row with
+knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2,
+purl 4, &c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5,
+bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, slip 2,
+decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decreasing 1 stitch in
+the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40,
+decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and
+so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2
+middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the
+last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is made
+_not_ on that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every
+other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting,
+decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches,
+knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch.
+
+     [62-*] In rows like this always keep the cotton before in slipping
+     a stitch.
+
+
+_Ribbed Squares._
+
+     For a Quilt.
+
+Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch
+at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th
+row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd,
+increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th
+row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row,
+knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3.
+Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1,
+increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2,
+purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit
+4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase
+1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1,
+purl 2, knit 2, &c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit
+2, purl 2, &c. Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until
+there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay
+in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them
+together.
+
+
+_Open work Fan._
+
+     For a Quilt.
+
+Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is
+always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward
+slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring
+the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over
+the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left
+hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66,
+knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
+slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted,
+repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle,
+decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit
+2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
+stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before,
+decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease
+1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
+over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton
+forward _before_ slipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and
+knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows,
+decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that the _first_
+slipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole)
+until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as
+before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the
+cotton through the remaining stitch.
+
+
+_An open Border._
+
+Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the
+1st stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch,
+pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches
+to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then
+begin with the first row again.
+
+A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement.
+
+
+_Another Border._
+
+Cast on any even number of stitches. Rib _each_ row with the exception
+of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When
+you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border
+stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2
+stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back
+and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row
+is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come
+to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be
+sure that your pattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on
+the wrong side, and 4 on the right.
+
+
+_A Last Border._
+
+For a Quilt.
+
+     Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton.
+
+Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second
+stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and
+3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which
+knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you
+were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the
+right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to
+be purled. Begin again at the 1st row.
+
+
+_Grecian Border._
+
+     Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton.
+
+Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd
+row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row,
+the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row,
+purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows
+are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the 9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and
+23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and
+31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and
+39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl
+12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row.
+
+
+_Diamond Knitting._
+
+     For a Quilt Border.
+
+Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always
+plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it,
+knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from
+the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row,
+knit the border stitches, and rib the rest; _every_ back row is the
+same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1
+stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches,
+decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
+repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue
+increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3
+stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the
+diamond which you have made by increasing, and increase on each side
+before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern
+done to see how to proceed.
+
+Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you
+have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease
+the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your
+greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5.
+
+
+_Border for a Table Cover._
+
+Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip
+a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a
+stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to
+knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to
+begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in
+length, then cast off.
+
+This border in crimson cotton or German lambs’-wool, is a nice finish to
+a dark cloth cover.
+
+
+_Border and Fringe._
+
+     In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl.
+
+Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd
+color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the
+1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2
+stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of
+the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the
+left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the
+same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only
+observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd.
+After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again.
+
+When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for
+the Fringe.
+
+
+_Scarf for the Throat._
+
+     It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German Lambs’-wool.
+
+Cast on 86 stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86
+cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course
+of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing
+for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and
+also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence
+the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2
+stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same
+until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the
+border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round
+the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this
+to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6,
+rib 3, &c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. 5th
+row; knit 4, take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 6th row; rib 4,
+increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3,
+&c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &c. 9th row; knit 8, knit
+2 together, rib 3, &c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &c.
+11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &c. 12th row;
+rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together,
+knit 4, rib 3, &c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 15th
+row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 16th row; rib 6,
+increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second
+pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough,
+then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to
+the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends.
+
+
+_Scarf Edge._
+
+     Two needles and gold colored flox silk.
+
+Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken
+together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
+taken together, knit 2 stitches.
+
+A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern.
+
+
+_Scarf._
+
+     Two needles No. 7.
+
+Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a
+stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib
+1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same.
+
+This scarf takes about 2-1/2 ounces of German lambs’-wool; it requires a
+wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends,
+which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the
+desired color, beginning with the darkest.
+
+
+_Netted Scarf._
+
+     On a foundation of 54 stitches.
+
+Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet,
+amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue,
+amber, and scarlet.
+
+
+_Porcupine Boa._
+
+     Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool
+forward, knit a stitch--this is the centre stitch of the pattern--bring
+the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2
+taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the
+4 stitches, &c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch
+off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continue this for
+6 rounds, increasing _before_ and _after_ every centre stitch, and
+knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the
+next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain
+rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2
+together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you
+decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this
+time.
+
+Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to
+count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you
+decrease.
+
+This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it
+with cotton wool and put strings to it.
+
+
+_Leggings._
+
+     Two ivory needles and rather fine lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2 inches, knitting and
+ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and
+increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60
+stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you
+increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to
+match the top. Sew them up.
+
+
+_Waistcoat._
+
+     Large Size.
+
+Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows,
+cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26
+stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14
+stitches, knit 38 rows.
+
+     The Sleeve.
+
+Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves
+a narrow bit to tack to the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open
+under the arm.
+
+
+_Knitted Waistcoat._
+
+Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows;
+cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows,
+cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows,
+cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows.
+
+     Sleeves.
+
+Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9
+rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for
+19.
+
+
+_Warm Tippet._
+
+     Two needles, No. 11.
+
+Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2
+taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows,
+then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions
+of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and
+knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther
+each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer
+stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards
+receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have
+now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6
+stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick
+up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward,
+slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end
+of the row without any more increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches
+in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the
+increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1
+(instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows,
+and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the
+first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted
+10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the
+gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the
+end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches
+and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2
+stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset
+again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the
+gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of
+stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the
+thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip
+another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitches
+together, bring the thread forward and go on. In the next row, when you
+come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3
+stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the
+10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole
+rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the
+cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must
+increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased.
+
+
+_Night Cap._
+
+     With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each
+needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam
+in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other
+round, until you have a sufficient number of stitches for the size of
+your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until
+your cap is 3/4 of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning,
+decreasing where you before increased.
+
+
+_Night Cap._
+
+     French Pattern.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4,
+next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre
+stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam
+(leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle.
+When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round
+until the cap is 3/4 of a yard long: make the end like the beginning.
+
+
+_Lambs’-wool Sleeve._
+
+Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the
+sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve
+is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser
+lambs’-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and
+finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half.
+
+
+_Cephaline._
+
+     To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms.
+
+     A mesh 3/4 of an inch wide and one 1/4 that width are required. It
+     may be netted in flox silk or fine lambs’-wool.
+
+Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are
+the middle rows). Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted
+with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine
+mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh
+2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60,
+and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a
+narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on
+the other side, beginning at the first narrow row.
+
+Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the
+Cephaline is made.
+
+
+_Diamond Knitting._
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the
+cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it,
+knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton
+forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain
+round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1,
+pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11
+stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
+repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted
+one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat
+these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the
+cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2
+together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
+slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat
+these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another
+round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond,
+and decrease the other half diamond to a point.
+
+
+_Another Diamond Knitting._
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the
+thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken
+together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward,
+knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
+the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this
+all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1
+and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain
+round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
+slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward
+knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together,
+bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1
+stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this
+all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3
+stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
+slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward
+and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see
+you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and
+you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle
+stitches of the larger diamond are _always_ plain knitting, and the 1st
+decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond.
+
+
+_Small Feather Pattern._
+
+     As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty
+     for a purse or mitten.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the
+thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch,
+thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice,
+knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice,
+increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds.
+Repeat these 4 rounds.
+
+
+_Double Eyelet Knitting._
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the
+thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together,
+knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1 stitch, repeat these 7
+stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds.
+
+
+_Gouty Shoes._
+
+For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1
+stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20
+stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12
+rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4
+times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row;
+twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch
+in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease
+3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row
+until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off.
+
+This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles
+No. 16.
+
+For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, with needles No. 8, and coarse
+lambs’-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25
+stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then
+2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit
+12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter.
+Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards,
+to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the
+sole on the wrong side.
+
+
+_To increase and decrease in Double Knitting._
+
+In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3
+rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the
+1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd
+row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you
+come to the increase, knit 1 stitch, and pass the next upon another
+needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from
+the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that
+you cannot increase less than two stitches at once.
+
+Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit
+2 _knitting_ stitches together passing the farther one over the
+intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches
+(instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2 _knitting_ stitches will come together,
+knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at
+once.
+
+
+_Double Knitted Soles._
+
+     To wear in the shoes.
+
+Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches
+in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24
+stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2 stitches every 2 rows until you
+have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20
+stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12
+stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the
+remaining 4 stitches.
+
+
+_Lambs’-wool Boot._
+
+     Four ivory needles and coarse lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2
+ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured
+lambs’-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease
+in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows;
+knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color,
+1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawing the lambs’-wool through
+2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom.
+
+
+_Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap._
+
+Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in
+double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in
+depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3
+turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the
+crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of
+double knitting, and run a ribbon through it.
+
+
+_Baby’s Hat._
+
+     Seven needles No. 16, are required.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round
+increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round
+increasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase.
+Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1
+round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always
+increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round,
+until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds
+alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round
+increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit
+and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the
+1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13
+welts, and cast off.
+
+Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape.
+
+
+_Baby’s Stockings._
+
+     With needles No. 15, and fine lambs’-wool.
+
+Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3
+rows increasing at the end of each. After this increase, at the end of
+every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take
+off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning
+at the _sloping_ side) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
+cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing.
+When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10
+stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches,
+increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but
+two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain
+rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches.
+Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit
+every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When
+knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie
+it round the ankle.
+
+
+_Baby’s Gaiters._
+
+Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the
+end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row.
+Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit
+18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a
+third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
+cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased
+to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches
+from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the
+side and knit the _legging_ as in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind
+the foot with white ribbon.
+
+
+_Baby’s Spencer._
+
+     Needles No. 14.
+
+Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In
+the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in the
+middle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches
+together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row
+afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the
+8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of
+the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14
+stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make
+the other to match it.
+
+The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th
+row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six
+times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of
+the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a
+stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are)
+until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need
+not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other
+end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing
+until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitches backwards and
+forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at
+the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down
+the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the
+buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make
+holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off.
+
+The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it
+wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches
+alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows.
+
+
+_Baby’s Stays._
+
+     To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambs’-wool. Needles No. 15.
+
+Cast on 204 stitches. The 6 _first_ and _last_ stitches are knitted
+every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6.
+Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the
+last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches, and,
+instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit
+and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row
+(consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row.
+Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast
+off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit
+the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1
+stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the
+rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the
+12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with
+the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and
+rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest.
+Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only
+are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and
+knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit
+and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and
+knit the rest. Rib and knit 12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches
+backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of
+the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on
+strings.
+
+
+_Baby’s Sock._
+
+     To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14,
+     and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambs’-wool,
+knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and
+12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the
+piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles.
+Knit 6 _turns_, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have
+only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting
+1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel
+in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you
+have 60 stitches left. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle, divide the
+stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two
+rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56
+round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit one _round_ and
+cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe.
+
+For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14
+stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding).
+Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and
+the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side
+stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle
+every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2
+rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up
+a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34
+stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern
+as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit
+1 plain round adding a stitch after every third stitch, making in all
+64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches
+alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in
+front of the shoe.
+
+
+_Netted Curtain._
+
+     For a French Bed.
+
+With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the
+curtain.
+
+
+_Moorish Brioche or Cushion._
+
+     Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that
+     contrast well. Two needles, No. 12.
+
+Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by
+this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a
+stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 2nd row:
+bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with
+the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop
+and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6
+more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten
+on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring
+the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the
+row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the
+wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you
+slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit
+8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these
+divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net
+a fringe with double coarse lambs’-wool to the narrow part, and run in a
+string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round
+cushion, and cover it with the knitting.
+
+
+_A Blanket._
+
+     Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse.
+
+Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with
+the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it,
+knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you
+will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only
+difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it
+together.
+
+These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty.
+
+
+_Blanket in strips._
+
+     Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern.
+
+Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows common knitting; then begin double
+knitting,[106-*] knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border,
+knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again;
+continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty
+if the squares are done in different colors.
+
+     [106-*] See Contents--Double Knitting. For a blanket it is better
+     to put the wool twice round the needle in the knitted stitches.
+
+
+_Netted Lace._
+
+     Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the
+     number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for.
+     216 will make about a yard.
+
+Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh 1/4 of an inch wide, or a trifle wider,
+net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the
+next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the
+row. Take the small mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a
+single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh.
+
+
+_Puff Netting._
+
+     Very pretty for caps.
+
+Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9
+stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net
+3 rows, 1 stitch in _every_ stitch. In the next row (which will make the
+5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the
+following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again.
+
+
+_A Cool Night-cap._
+
+     Puff netting.
+
+     The mesh to be 1/4 inch wide.
+
+Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the
+4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this
+all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch in _every_ stitch. In the
+next round take the 5 plain stitches as _one_, net 5 stitches, repeat
+all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after
+the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the
+cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and
+tie the top string tight.
+
+
+_Suspenders._
+
+     Two needles No. 16.
+
+Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the
+thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on
+another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is
+long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knit up the
+other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the
+thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double
+knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the
+needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2,
+which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch
+first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th
+and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch.
+Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were
+going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right
+hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled.
+Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double
+knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish
+in a point.
+
+These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the
+first series.
+
+
+_Parisian Net Knitting._
+
+     This pattern is very pretty for a foot-muff, blanket, or sofa
+     guard.
+
+     Take German lambs’-wool of two colors that contrast well; pink and
+     white form a pretty mixture.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches, and with the white wool knit several
+rows before beginning the pattern. 1st row; fasten on the pink wool
+forward, knit the first stitch with the white wool, pass the pink round
+the needle bringing it forward again, and purl the next stitch with it;
+pass the purled stitch on to the left-hand needle and knit it with the
+white wool, knit 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round the
+needle, purl 1 stitch and pass it back on to the left-hand needle, knit
+it and the following stitch with the white wool; continue the same to
+the end of the row. 2nd row; purl the white stitches with the white
+wool, and slip the pink loops, taking care not to twist them or change
+the side which is forward. 3rd row; knit the white stitches with the
+white wool and slip the pink loops. 4th row; purl the 1st stitch with
+the white wool, turn the pink wool (which is now behind) round the
+needle, and with it knit the pink loop and following white stitch taken
+together, slip the stitch on to the left hand needle and purl it with
+the white wool, purl 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round
+the needle, and knit with it the pink loop and following stitch taken
+together, slip it on to the other needle and purl it with the white
+wool, repeat the same to the end. 5th row; knit all the white stitches
+with the white wool and slip the pink loops. 6th row; purl the white
+stitches with the white wool and slip the pink. 7th row; knit 1 stitch
+with the white wool, pass the pink wool (which is forward) round the
+needle and with it purl the pink loop and following white stitch taken
+together, observing to take the pink loop by the under side, slip the
+stitch on to the left hand needle and knit it and the following white
+stitch with the white wool; repeat the same to the end of the row: as
+the 7th row takes the place of the 1st, continue with the 2nd row.
+
+
+_Diamond Knitting._
+
+Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. 1st round: knit 12 stitches, knit
+2 taken together, and bring the cotton forward; repeat the same. 2nd
+round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 9, knit 2 taken together and
+bring the cotton forward, knit 1 and bring the cotton forward again. 3rd
+round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the cotton forward, knit 3, and bring the cotton forward again.
+4th round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 5, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, and bring the cotton forward
+again. 5th round: knit 2 taken together, knit 3, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the cotton forward, knit 7, bring the cotton forward. 6th round:
+knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring
+the cotton forward, knit 9, bring the cotton forward. 7th round: knit 3
+taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, bring the cotton
+forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 4, bring the cotton forward. Begin
+again.
+
+
+_Four Patterns, for D’Oyleys, Toilet Covers, Baby’s Quilts, or Basket
+Napkins._
+
+     Two needles, No. 22 or 23, and very fine knitting cotton.
+
+
+No. 1.
+
+Cast on a number of stitches that will divide into an even number of
+threes. _Knit and rib_ 3 stitches alternately for 3 rounds. In the next
+3 rounds, _rib and knit_ 3 stitches alternately.
+
+
+No. 2.
+
+Cast on a number of stitches as for the last pattern. Knit and rib 3
+stitches alternately for 2 rows. The following rows begin so as to bring
+the first ribbed stitch over the last knitted: this is to make the
+ribbed and knitted ridges go in diagonal stripes.
+
+
+No. 3.
+
+Cast on a number of stitches that will divide by 10. Knit 1 stitch, rib
+9, repeat the same to the end of the row. 2nd row: rib 1 stitch, knit 7,
+rib 2. 3rd row: knit 3, rib 5, knit 2. 4th row: rib 3, knit 3, rib 4.
+5th row: knit 5, rib 1, knit 4. 6th row: knit 4, rib 1, knit 5. 7th row:
+rib 4, knit 3, rib 3. 8th row: knit 2, rib 5, knit 3. 9th row: rib 2,
+knit 7, rib 1. 10th row: rib 9, knit 1. Begin again.
+
+
+No. 4.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row: knit every stitch with the
+cotton twice round the needle. 2nd row: begin by dropping one twist of
+the 1st stitch, knit the rest of this stitch with the 1st twist of the
+next, taking them together; finish the row, knitting 2 threads taken
+together, knit the last stitch. Begin again.
+
+
+_Mazaniello Cap._
+
+     Four Needles,
+     And Wool of two colors which contrast well.
+
+Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row is purled. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch and
+knit the row taking two stitches together to the last stitch which knit.
+3rd row; slip the 1st stitch, purl the next, raise a loop between this
+stitch and the next and purl it, repeat these 2 stitches to the end. 4th
+row; knit plain. These 4 rows form one stripe of diamonds. Take the
+second colored wool and purl 1 row, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows.
+Repeat these 8 rows until you have 15 stripes of diamonds in each
+colour: Cast off.
+
+Pick up 60 stitches on the side of the piece you have been knitting;
+(i. e. 2 in each stripe of diamonds). Take first the 2nd color and
+afterwards the 1st, and repeat the 4 rows as given above, until you have
+7 stripes of one color and 6 of the other. Cast off loosely. This piece,
+when the cap is finished is _wrong side_ outwards as it is to be turned
+up all round.
+
+To finish the crown, pick up 60 stitches on 3 needles and with the 2nd
+color repeat the pattern, observing that its right side must be the
+right side of the cap, (consequently the wrong side of the piece at the
+bottom). In the 4th round reduce 1 stitch in every 4. Repeat the pattern
+with the 1st colors. In the 4th round, knit 2, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat to the end of the round. In the 4th round of the 3rd round of
+diamonds reduce every other stitch. In the 4th round of the 4th round
+of diamonds, thread a worsted needle with the wool and pass it through
+all the stitches, draw them up tight and fasten off.
+
+The cap may be finished with a cord and tassel to match in colors, or
+with a tassel only.
+
+
+_Muff, in Spots or Stars._
+
+     Two wooden needles, No. 10, and for a small muff 1 ounce of blue
+     and 1 ounce of black fleecy. Double that quantity for a large size.
+
+For a small muff cast on 60 stitches, for a large one 84. The number
+must divide into 3 equal numbers. Cast on the stitches with the black
+wool, purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, (every 2nd row with the black wool must begin like this)
+bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches pull the first over the 2 last,
+repeat these 3 stitches to the end, when you will find you have one
+stitch left, bring the wool forward and knit it. Join on the blue wool
+and purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken together,
+knit 2 stitches and pull the stitch in which you decreased over them,
+(every 2nd blue row begins thus) bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches
+pull the 1st over the 2 last, repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the
+row. Use the black wool and repeat the whole. For a small muff do 21
+stripes of each color, for a large one 42. Cast off.
+
+To make up a small muff you must buy 5-8ths of gros-de-naples, 1-1/2 oz.
+of fine carded wool and 1 oz. of fine horse-hair. Double the silk in
+halves and place on it 1 layer of wool. 1 layer of horse-hair and a
+second layer of wool. Quilt these to one-half of the silk and fold the
+other half over, and sew it to the knitted cover; turn the muff inside
+out and sew up first the knitted part and then the silk. Finish the muff
+at the edges by a cord or a quilling of ribbon.
+
+
+_Another Muff._
+
+     Two needles No. 10 and 3 skeins of coarse fleecy.
+
+Cast on sixty stitches. Knit 1 row; rib 1 row; knit 1 row taking 2
+stitches together all the way. 4th row; knit 1 stitch, pick up and knit
+a loop between the stitches, continue the same to the end of the row. As
+by this you would lose 1 stitch, this must be prevented by picking up
+and knitting a loop alternately, before beginning or at the end of every
+4th row.
+
+Make up the muff like the preceding pattern.
+
+
+
+
+TERMS USED IN KNITTING.
+
+
+  _A turn_ means two rows.
+
+  _To turn_ means to change from plain to purled stitches, or the
+    reverse.
+
+  _A ridge_ is formed by two rows when knitting with only two pins.
+
+  _A loop stitch_ is formed by passing the thread before the needle,
+    and, in _knitting_ the next stitch, letting it take its usual place.
+
+  _To increase in knitting a Quilt_, care should always be taken to
+    increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by
+    knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting
+    a second at the back.
+
+  _To fasten on in knitting._ It is a secure fastening to lay the two
+    ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them
+    both.
+
+  _To narrow_ or _decrease_ is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a
+    stocking.
+
+  _Ribbed stitch_, _purl stitch_, _turned_, or _seam stitch_, are all
+    terms having the same meaning. A turned stitch is made by bringing
+    the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over
+    the upper cotton, it is put under.
+
+  _To slip_, _take off_, or _pass a stitch_, is to change it from one
+    needle to another without knitting it.
+
+  _To take under_, means to pass the right hand needle through the
+    stitch on the left hand one, so as still to keep the same side of
+    the stitch towards you.
+
+  _Welts_ are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of
+    stockings, to prevent their rolling up.
+
+  _Cast off_ means to end your work in the following manner: knit 2
+    stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same
+    until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your
+    cotton through it.
+
+  _To decrease_ is to lessen the number of stitches by knitting 2 taken
+    together.
+
+  _To increase_, or _make a double stitch_, is to knit one stitch in the
+    usual way, then, without slipping out the left hand needle, to pass
+    the thread forward and knit a second stitch, putting the needle
+    under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is
+    finished.
+
+  _Hang on_, means cast on.
+
+  _Bring the thread forward_, means to pass it between the needles
+    towards you.
+
+  _Cast over_ is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters, to
+    signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express,
+    bring the cotton over the needle, quite round.
+
+  _Round the needle_, means the same as the last term.
+
+  _Reversed_, means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed
+    _over_ the needle, and then carried back to its place.
+
+  _Together_, means knit 2 stitches in 1.
+
+  _Set_, or _Tuft_, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the
+    Fringes.
+
+  _To widen_ means to increase.
+
+The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle gauge, as I am
+not aware there is any other rule for them.
+
+
+
+
+  =PUBLIC=
+  SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY,
+  BELGRAVE SQUARE.
+
+  To this Library every New Work of Interest is
+  added on the day of Publication.
+
+  TERMS:
+
+  Twelve months      £5  5 0
+  Six months          3  3 0
+  Three months        1 16 0
+
+  CARD PLATES ENGRAVED & PRINTED.
+
+  STATIONERY, &c.
+
+  =Agent for the Early Supply of Newspapers.=
+
+  JOHN MILAND,
+  _Chapel Street, Belgrave Square._
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber’s Note
+
+
+The following typographical errors were corrected:
+
+  Page   Error
+    ii  Chequed changed to Chequered
+     7  long enough. changed to long enough,
+    12  mesh, In changed to mesh. In
+    50  next round. by changed to next round by
+    69  the 9th, changed to the 9th.
+    73  86 stiches; changed to 86 stitches
+    82  and go on, changed to and go on.
+   110  sofa guard. changed to sofa guard,
+   122  needle guage changed to needle gauge
+
+The following words were inconsistently spelled:
+
+  D’Oyleys / Doyleys
+  Honey-comb / Honeycomb
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by 
+Miss Watts
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND ***
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+Project Gutenberg's The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by Miss Watts
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book
+
+Author: Miss Watts
+
+Release Date: October 2, 2010 [EBook #33951]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber’s Note
+
+Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections
+is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and
+hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled
+and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.
+
+
+
+
+  THE LADIES’
+  KNITTING AND NETTING
+  BOOK.
+
+  SECOND SERIES.
+
+
+
+
+  THE LADIES’ KNITTING
+  AND NETTING
+  BOOK.
+
+
+  BY MISS WATTS.
+
+
+  SECOND SERIES.
+
+
+  Second Edition.
+
+  ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL.
+
+
+  LONDON:
+  JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET,
+  BELGRAVE SQUARE.
+
+  1840.
+
+
+
+
+  Lessons given in knitting and netting.
+  For terms and address, apply to the Publisher.
+
+
+  W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                              PAGE
+
+  Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves                     1
+  Netted ditto                                   3
+  Feather ditto                                  5
+  Plain open Mittens                             8
+  Another Plain ditto                           10
+  Annet ditto                                   11
+  Honeycomb ditto                               13
+  Matrimony ditto                               15
+  Lambs’-wool ditto                            ib.
+  Round Netted ditto                            17
+  Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top      18
+  Feather Mits                                  20
+  Cuffs, Peacock Stitch                         21
+  Netted Cuffs                                  22
+  Warm ditto                                    23
+  Muffatees                                     24
+  Ditto                                        ib.
+  Gentlemen’s ditto                             25
+  Cushion Cover                                 26
+  Sofa Pillow ditto                             27
+  Striped Cushion ditto                        ib.
+  Knitted Mat, with Fringe                      28
+  Netted Mat                                    30
+  Vase ditto                                   ib.
+  Table mats                                    31
+  Table ditto, in one piece                     32
+  Napkin Ring                                   33
+  A Pence Purse, or Jug                        ib.
+  Bouquetier. No. 1.                            35
+    Ditto     No. 2.                            36
+  Tidy Basket                                   37
+  Ladder Stitch Bag                             38
+  Crossed Stitch ditto                          39
+  Netted ditto                                  40
+  Fringe                                       ib.
+  Netted ditto                                  41
+  Scarf ditto                                  ib.
+  Fringe                                        42
+  Rug ditto                                    ib.
+  Carriage Rug                                  43
+  Striped Purse                                 44
+  Chequered ditto                               45
+  Purse in Round Netting                       ib.
+  Matrimony--For a Purse                        46
+  Another                                      ib.
+  Annet Purse                                   47
+  Honeycomb Purse                               48
+  Another Honeycomb                            ib.
+  Netted Purse                                  49
+  Single Diamond Netting                       ib.
+  Treble ditto                                  50
+  Knitted Purse                                 52
+  Stitches for Purses. No. 1.                   53
+        Ditto.         No. 2.                  ib.
+        Ditto.         No. 3.                   54
+        Ditto.         No. 4.                  ib.
+        Ditto.         No. 5.                   55
+  Stitches for Purses. No. 6                    56
+        Ditto          No. 7                    57
+  Bead Netting                                 ib.
+    Ditto                                       58
+  Dice Knitting                                ib.
+  Open Fan, for a Quilt                         60
+  Gauffre Fans, for ditto                       62
+  Ribbed Squares, for ditto                     64
+  Open work Fan, for ditto                      65
+  An Open Border                                66
+  Another Border                                67
+  A Last Border, for a Quilt                    68
+  Grecian Border                                69
+  Diamond Knitting                              70
+  Border for a Table Cover                      71
+  Border and Fringe                             72
+  Scarf for the Throat                          73
+  Scarf Edge                                    74
+  Scarf                                         75
+  Netted ditto                                  76
+  Porcupine Boa                                ib.
+  Leggings                                      77
+  Waistcoat                                     78
+  Knitted ditto                                 79
+  Warm Tippet                                   80
+  Night Cap                                     82
+    Ditto                                       83
+  Lambs’-wool sleeve                            84
+  Cephaline                                    ib.
+  Diamond Knitting                              85
+  Another ditto                                 87
+  Small Feather Pattern                         89
+  Double Eyelet Knitting                       ib.
+  Gouty Shoes                                   90
+  To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting   91
+  Double Knitted Soles                          92
+  Lambs’-wool Boot                              93
+  Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap                        94
+    Ditto Hat                                  ib.
+    Ditto Stockings                             95
+    Ditto Gaiters                               97
+    Ditto Spencer                              ib.
+    Ditto Stays                                 99
+    Ditto Socks                                101
+  Netted Curtain                               103
+  Brioche                                      ib.
+  A Blanket                                    105
+  Blanket in strips                            ib.
+  Netted Lace                                  106
+  Puff Netting                                 107
+  A Cool Night-cap                             ib.
+  Suspenders                                   108
+  Parisian Net Knitting                        110
+  Diamond Knitting                             112
+  Four Patterns for Doyleys, &c.               113
+  Mazaniello Cap                               115
+  Muff                                         117
+  Ditto                                        119
+  Terms used in Knitting                       120
+
+
+
+
+THE LADIES’ KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK.
+
+SECOND SERIES.
+
+
+_Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves._
+
+     Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool.
+
+Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit
+round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done
+about one inch, continue with plain knitting[2-*] until your glove is
+long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting
+twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it
+again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a
+needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round
+before and after the last increase; continue this until you have
+stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except
+those for the thumb, on two _other_ needles; divide the stitches for the
+thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the
+join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted
+needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your
+needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset;
+knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the
+gusset: knit plain until the glove is long enough to begin the fingers;
+begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as
+you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and
+21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the
+first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset,
+these may be decreased or not according to the size required.
+
+     [2-*] If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the glove, or a
+     pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or more
+     stitches.
+
+
+_Netted Gloves._
+
+     The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk
+     fine.
+
+Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round,
+putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run
+the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by
+netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next
+stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round,
+before and after where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for
+rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the
+stitches for the thumb _round_, when you have done 1 round decrease once
+in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is
+long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the
+end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at
+the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5
+rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds
+according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16
+stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other
+fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of
+two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the
+_finished_ finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the
+gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth.
+Run a pattern on the back with flox silk.
+
+
+_Feather Gloves._
+
+     Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required.
+
+Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit
+round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half
+an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton _round the needle_, and
+knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the
+ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain
+and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring
+the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by
+knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the
+centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and
+repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches,
+which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds
+until the glove is long enough to begin to increase for the thumb:
+after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a
+stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in
+the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round,
+continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9
+stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing,
+knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the
+thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch,
+knit 1 stitch, increase as before.
+
+When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st
+needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a
+stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease
+twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next
+round of the holes of the _pattern_ you will have 17 stitches for the
+thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease
+twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2,
+increase 1. In future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern
+down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with
+the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be
+knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round,
+take all the other stitches on 2 _other_ needles, and knit the thumb
+round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb
+is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before,
+take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and
+continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd
+stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if
+you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease
+the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle:
+continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long enough, begin
+the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19;
+knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when
+you have done this finger, take up 4 stitches for the gusset at the
+bottom of the 1st finger,[8-*] 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern.
+The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19
+of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of
+the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset
+stitches.
+
+When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow
+ribbon in the holes.
+
+     [8-*] These stitches may be decreased again or not.
+
+
+_Plain open Mittens._
+
+     Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No.
+     14, and moderately fine silk.
+
+Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the
+ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next
+round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following
+stitches, complete the round, and net 2 rounds without increase.
+Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which
+you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches
+every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make
+the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made _over_ each
+other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net
+the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together,
+if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough
+net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round,
+taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the
+fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of
+the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the
+mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the
+thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can
+be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it.
+
+
+_Another plain Mitten._
+
+     On a smaller mesh than the preceding.
+
+Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 _rows_ with the silk once
+round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with
+it once. Now begin to net _rounds_ instead of _rows_, by netting the
+last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches,
+increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a
+stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and
+net another round without increase. Increase _outside_ the last
+additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional
+stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase _within_ the
+additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time _within_ the
+last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the
+stitch _over_ the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding
+stitch on the other side of the thumb, net round the thumb (decreasing
+to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by
+netting 1 round with double silk _twice_, and 3 rounds with single silk
+_once_, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the
+side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2
+rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and
+net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4
+rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done
+on rather a finer mesh.
+
+
+_Annet Mittens._
+
+Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 _rows_; then net 1 row with the silk twice
+round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net
+_rounds_ instead of _rows_. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk
+passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the
+2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of
+the 1st, net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the
+4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat
+these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the
+silk twice round the mesh. In the next round, which is like the second,
+care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the
+last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round
+the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2
+stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk
+passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1
+round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these
+rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2
+stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further
+back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting
+from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4
+rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side _over_ the last
+additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and proceed to make the thumb as
+directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net
+1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next
+round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the
+last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the
+silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the
+alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb.
+
+
+_Honey-comb Mittens._
+
+     Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches.
+
+Net 3 _rows_. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows
+once round the mesh; then begin netting in _rounds_. 1st round, for
+every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch
+once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net
+the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the
+3rd plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate
+repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning
+the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a
+plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued
+throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is
+given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th,
+net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again
+2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in
+which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more.
+Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each
+side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds,
+and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease
+if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with
+double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round
+twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom
+of the thumb, add 1 stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds
+of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the
+thumb.
+
+
+_Matrimony Mittens._
+
+The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last
+mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As
+this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The
+mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches.
+
+     _Note._--It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens,
+     begin with _rows_ instead of _rounds_, this is to prevent the
+     necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken
+     off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is
+     made on the other.
+
+
+_Lambs’-wool Mittens._
+
+     This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up.
+
+     Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of
+     an inch wide.
+
+Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net
+2 rows with lambs’-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd.
+Repeat these rows of lambs’-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of
+the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same
+back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, these
+stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net
+2 rows of lambs’-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of
+silk, 2 rows of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, and 1 of silk.
+All the rows of lambs’-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of
+silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in
+at the top of the first row of silk.
+
+This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours.
+
+
+_Mitten in Round Netting._
+
+     Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14.
+
+Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round
+netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice
+round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking
+care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you
+give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2
+stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in
+the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the
+stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time);
+increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each
+increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several
+rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be
+joined together. Join the first and last stitches over the last added
+stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit.
+When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the
+bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the
+hand part of the mitten is long enough.
+
+If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a
+round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next
+round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh.
+
+
+_Mittens._
+
+     With a leaf wreath round the top.
+
+     Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required,
+     for instance brown and blue.
+
+Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one
+round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2
+stitches bringing the silk forward between each, knit 3 stitches,
+repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the
+brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds
+of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of
+blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4
+brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4
+brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue,
+4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4
+blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1
+round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same
+reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds
+decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward,
+knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain
+round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear;
+then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14
+stitches on the right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before
+until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as
+before and finish with a brown round.
+
+Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes,
+and finish with a brown round.
+
+
+_Feather Mits._
+
+     These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going
+     to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambs’-wool
+     are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half
+     or a whole skein of wool.
+
+Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a
+plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice;
+decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the
+centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3
+times; increase 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit
+3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern.
+
+
+_Cuffs, Peacock Stitch._
+
+     Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are
+     required.
+
+Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches,
+bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward
+between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round.
+Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
+the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2
+stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat
+this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the
+purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2
+stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the
+thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the
+cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge.
+
+
+_Netted Cuffs._
+
+     Four skeins of colored lambs’-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No.
+     14, a flat wooden mesh 1/2 an inch wide, and a foundation of 120
+     stitches, are required.
+
+Net 2 rows of colored lambs’-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white
+lambs’-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2
+white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number;
+net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until
+there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored
+between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in
+every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored.
+
+Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and
+pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the
+wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh.
+
+
+_Warm Cuffs._
+
+     Two needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles;
+knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle;
+rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2
+rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12
+rows as at first.
+
+Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together.
+
+
+_Muffatees._
+
+     Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing
+3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is
+about six inches long, begin double knitting[24-*] on coarser needles;
+when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off;
+sew up the part that is in double knitting.
+
+     [24-*] Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip a stitch,
+     pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat these 2
+     stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round.
+
+
+_Muffatees._
+
+     Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color
+     may be varied at pleasure.
+
+Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these
+rows, reckoning the cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long
+enough cast off and sew it up.
+
+These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool.
+
+
+_Gentlemen’s Muffatees._
+
+     Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambs’-wool and 4 of
+     white.
+
+Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2
+stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every
+row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish
+the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up.
+
+These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the
+sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse
+lambs’-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on
+smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again.
+
+
+_Cushion Cover._
+
+     This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or
+     German lambs’-wool, white or colored, according to fancy.
+
+Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your
+4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st
+stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd,
+the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an
+odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next
+needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd
+stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the
+next needle.
+
+When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square,
+knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and
+surround it with a cord or fringe.
+
+
+_Sofa Pillow Cover._
+
+     Four Needles No. 11.
+
+Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread
+twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd
+stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd
+stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round
+with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these
+two rounds form the pattern.
+
+When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard)
+cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe.
+
+
+_Striped Cushion Cover._
+
+Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch
+slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd,
+the 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is
+the same.
+
+
+_Knitted Mat with Fringe._
+
+     Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambs’-wool.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by
+bringing the wool forward before _every_ stitch every 3rd round, until
+you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round,
+increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1
+round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round
+increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round;
+purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool
+with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you
+will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3-1/2
+inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the lengths together and loop
+in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the
+needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third
+finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit
+of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the
+left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next
+round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round,
+and cast off.
+
+Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round
+before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1
+round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off.
+
+Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize
+or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to
+the edge of the card all round.
+
+
+_Netted Mat._
+
+     To put between plates.
+
+This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a 1/4 of an inch
+wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24
+rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the
+mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie
+it tight, (this is the centre).
+
+Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a
+round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a
+fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure.
+
+
+_Knitted Vase Mat._
+
+     Two needles No. 14.
+
+This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very
+pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15;
+knit 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a
+point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in
+the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former
+vol.)
+
+
+_Table Mats._
+
+These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces.
+
+Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the
+2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the
+cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be
+repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to
+prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit
+16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you
+knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn,
+until you knit 18 and back again; cast off.
+
+End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3 stitches, increase 1, knit to
+within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of
+the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to
+leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind
+and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time,
+without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off.
+
+Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and
+surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the
+size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side
+pieces.
+
+
+_Table Mat._
+
+     In one piece.
+
+Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21;
+increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches;
+increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you have 32 stitches; knit 8
+rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond,
+decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The
+size can be altered by varying the size of the pins.
+
+
+_Napkin Ring._
+
+     This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather
+     fine pins.
+
+Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit
+3 rounds, and cast off rather tight.
+
+
+_A Pence Purse, or Jug._
+
+     Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambs’-wool of
+     different colors, are required.
+
+Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and
+forwards, in common knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop
+6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third,
+(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting
+2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2,
+rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped
+stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until
+within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2;
+on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this
+round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will
+find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2
+alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner,
+then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain
+knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a
+stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color,
+knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and
+knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain round and
+3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4
+needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing
+1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing
+alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3
+rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape;
+divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds
+without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so,
+until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted
+needle, and sew down the handle.
+
+
+_Bouquetier._ No. 1.
+
+     You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist.
+
+Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round
+knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for 44 or 48
+rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing
+by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3;
+and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round
+bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each
+needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain,
+continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round)
+until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th
+needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib
+alternate _rows_, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in
+the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same
+manner.
+
+
+_Bouquetier._ No. 2.
+
+     Four needles No. 14.
+
+Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches
+alternately for 48 rounds. Then knit and rib alternate _rounds_,
+increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until
+you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit
+backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1
+stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were
+rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point.
+
+
+_Tidy Basket._
+
+     Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4
+stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide
+your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing
+3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third.
+Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3
+rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the
+largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain, and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4
+stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle,
+until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which
+were left on the opposite side of the basket.
+
+Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and
+fasten it to the bottom on the inside.
+
+
+_Ladder Stitch Bag._
+
+     Two needles No. 12.
+
+Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately;
+and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following
+rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12
+rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to
+form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the
+next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over
+the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the
+same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern
+until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make
+the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon
+round the top.
+
+
+_Crossed Stitch Bag._
+
+     Two needles No. 12.
+
+Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the
+needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the
+1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the
+same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the
+needle.
+
+When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the
+sides.
+
+
+_Netted Bag._
+
+     To hold the ball when knitting.
+
+These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of
+course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are
+very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh
+should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring,
+(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently
+long.
+
+
+_Fringe._
+
+Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit
+2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with
+the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit
+the remaining 6 plain; continue these 2 rows until the fringe is the
+length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel
+the 6 stitches of plain knitting.
+
+
+_Netted Fringe._
+
+     To go round a bag.
+
+Net 300 stitches on a mesh 1/2 an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No.
+15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row,
+putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh.
+Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe.
+_Cut_ it off of the foundation.
+
+
+_Scarf Fringe._
+
+     To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk.
+
+Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
+taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the
+silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2
+rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off
+6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted.
+
+
+_Fringe._
+
+Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and
+knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken
+together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a
+sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the
+fringe.
+
+
+_Rug Fringe._
+
+Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some
+yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two
+inches.
+
+Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of
+yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right
+hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until
+within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is
+plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat
+these two rows.
+
+
+_Carriage Rug._
+
+     Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and
+     some coarse _yarn_ cut into lengths of about two inches.
+
+With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place
+1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side;
+knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the
+needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end
+and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before
+you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the
+row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the
+strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another.
+When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm
+mat.
+
+
+_Striped Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide.
+
+Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in
+the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it),
+then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of
+the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the
+mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse
+is wide enough.
+
+N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and
+netted in shades of different colors.
+
+
+_Chequered Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares.
+
+Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6
+stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the
+pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the
+rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over
+the brown, and the brown over the pink.
+
+
+_Purse in Round Netting._
+
+     Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide.
+
+Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch
+(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed
+under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch.
+
+
+_Matrimony.--For a Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches.
+
+Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing
+the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them
+together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain
+netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net
+the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it
+will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the
+pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat
+the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch.
+
+
+_Another._
+
+Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row,
+passing the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,)
+net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net
+the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches
+until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row.
+
+
+_Annet Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches.
+
+Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd
+row, pull the 1st stitch _through_ the 2nd from the back, net it; pull
+the 2nd stitch through the _middle_ of the 1st, (taking care not to
+twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th
+through the _middle_ of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the
+end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain
+before beginning the pattern.
+
+
+_Honey-comb Purse._
+
+On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd
+stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to
+half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning
+it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the
+row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain
+before beginning the pattern.
+
+
+_Another Honey-comb._
+
+On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round
+the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the
+1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches
+together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to
+the end of the row. Next row begin again.
+
+
+_Netted Purse._
+
+     In two colors.
+
+Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80
+or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate
+stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this
+change of color, every row is the same.
+
+
+_Single Diamond Netting._
+
+     On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a
+     purse four inches wide.
+
+Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once
+round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on
+alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch
+once round the mesh,) draw out the mesh, put it in one of the long
+stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch;
+the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds
+until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead
+of netting _round_ the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The
+1st stitch in the 1st _row_ is once _round_ the mesh, the 2nd twice, the
+3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch
+has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full
+length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch.
+When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net
+round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round
+the purse will be once round the mesh.
+
+
+_Treble Diamond Netting._
+
+     On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18.
+
+Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next round by putting the silk twice
+round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once
+round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed.
+Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the
+long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net
+the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip
+them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the
+2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end
+of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh.
+Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1
+stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the
+mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the
+round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch;
+repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st
+round, viz.--1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the
+silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough
+to begin the opening, which should be begun in a round after that in
+which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round
+it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice
+round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of
+the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the
+mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long
+enough, begin to net in _rounds_ instead of _rows_, taking care to make
+the diamond stitches match.
+
+
+_Knitted Purse._
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring
+the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken
+together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round,
+is the same as the 1st. 4th round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the
+silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch,
+knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all
+round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again.
+
+
+_Stitches for Purses._ No. 1.
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In
+beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,)
+knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and
+continue the same until the purse is long enough.
+
+
+No. 2.
+
+     With 2 needles.
+
+Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit
+2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat
+the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike.
+
+
+No. 3.
+
+     With 2 needles.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over
+the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of
+the row. Knit a plain row and begin again.
+
+
+No. 4.
+
+     On 2 needles.
+
+Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped
+stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the
+row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the pattern, but in the 3rd
+row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the
+pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over
+the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by
+knitting 1 stitch.
+
+This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of
+each.
+
+
+No. 5.
+
+     Two needles.
+
+Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches
+together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch,
+rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of
+the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when
+you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the
+last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the
+1st row.
+
+
+No. 6.
+
+     Two needles.
+
+Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2
+stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the
+1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last
+stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick
+up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and
+knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after
+twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the
+thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch,
+continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the
+1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole
+and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to
+the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row.
+
+
+No. 7.
+
+Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted
+plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd
+row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is
+across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next
+stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain
+knitting. Begin again at the 1st row.
+
+
+_Bead Netting._
+
+Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to
+where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot
+and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and
+the next row will fix these in their places.
+
+
+_Bead Netting_,
+
+     With the bead on the knot.
+
+Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row;
+net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close
+to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up
+to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the
+bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to
+place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open.
+
+
+_Dice Knitting._
+
+     For a Purse.
+
+This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine
+needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk.
+
+Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until
+you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd
+row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass _that_ silk round the
+silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk
+knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and
+bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in
+the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball
+of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with
+the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with
+the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st
+forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you
+have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread
+of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch
+with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color,
+knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and
+continue the same for the rest of the 8 stitches, when you will find 2
+threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring
+forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those
+of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then
+knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the
+color again.
+
+This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles
+and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on
+both sides it does not require lining.
+
+
+_Open Fan for a Quilt._
+
+     Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18.
+
+Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5,
+decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left
+hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side are
+_always_ knitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these
+2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a
+stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border
+stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A
+plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease,
+purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row.
+Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the
+border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1,
+knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the
+slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1,
+knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these
+stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the
+rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The
+last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until
+14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still
+decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in
+the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last
+stitch.
+
+
+_Gauffre Fans for a Quilt._
+
+Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row is
+_slipped_ throughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches,
+counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60,
+decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit
+58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the
+cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4,
+decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven
+times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,[62-*]
+purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4,
+decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit
+1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c.
+ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1,
+slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decrease 1, and knit the 4 last stitches. A
+plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row.
+Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &c. ending the row with
+knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2,
+purl 4, &c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5,
+bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, slip 2,
+decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decreasing 1 stitch in
+the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40,
+decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and
+so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2
+middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the
+last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is made
+_not_ on that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every
+other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting,
+decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches,
+knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch.
+
+     [62-*] In rows like this always keep the cotton before in slipping
+     a stitch.
+
+
+_Ribbed Squares._
+
+     For a Quilt.
+
+Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch
+at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th
+row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd,
+increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th
+row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row,
+knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3.
+Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1,
+increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2,
+purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit
+4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase
+1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1,
+purl 2, knit 2, &c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit
+2, purl 2, &c. Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until
+there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay
+in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them
+together.
+
+
+_Open work Fan._
+
+     For a Quilt.
+
+Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is
+always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward
+slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring
+the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over
+the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left
+hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66,
+knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
+slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted,
+repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle,
+decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit
+2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
+stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before,
+decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease
+1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
+over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton
+forward _before_ slipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and
+knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows,
+decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that the _first_
+slipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole)
+until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as
+before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the
+cotton through the remaining stitch.
+
+
+_An open Border._
+
+Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the
+1st stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch,
+pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches
+to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then
+begin with the first row again.
+
+A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement.
+
+
+_Another Border._
+
+Cast on any even number of stitches. Rib _each_ row with the exception
+of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When
+you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border
+stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2
+stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back
+and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row
+is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come
+to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be
+sure that your pattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on
+the wrong side, and 4 on the right.
+
+
+_A Last Border._
+
+For a Quilt.
+
+     Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton.
+
+Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second
+stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and
+3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which
+knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you
+were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the
+right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to
+be purled. Begin again at the 1st row.
+
+
+_Grecian Border._
+
+     Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton.
+
+Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd
+row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row,
+the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row,
+purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows
+are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the 9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and
+23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and
+31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and
+39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl
+12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row.
+
+
+_Diamond Knitting._
+
+     For a Quilt Border.
+
+Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always
+plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it,
+knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from
+the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row,
+knit the border stitches, and rib the rest; _every_ back row is the
+same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1
+stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches,
+decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
+repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue
+increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3
+stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the
+diamond which you have made by increasing, and increase on each side
+before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern
+done to see how to proceed.
+
+Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you
+have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease
+the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your
+greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5.
+
+
+_Border for a Table Cover._
+
+Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip
+a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a
+stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to
+knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to
+begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in
+length, then cast off.
+
+This border in crimson cotton or German lambs’-wool, is a nice finish to
+a dark cloth cover.
+
+
+_Border and Fringe._
+
+     In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl.
+
+Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd
+color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the
+1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2
+stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of
+the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the
+left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the
+same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only
+observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd.
+After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again.
+
+When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for
+the Fringe.
+
+
+_Scarf for the Throat._
+
+     It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German Lambs’-wool.
+
+Cast on 86 stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86
+cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course
+of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing
+for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and
+also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence
+the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2
+stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same
+until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the
+border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round
+the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this
+to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6,
+rib 3, &c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. 5th
+row; knit 4, take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 6th row; rib 4,
+increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3,
+&c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &c. 9th row; knit 8, knit
+2 together, rib 3, &c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &c.
+11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &c. 12th row;
+rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together,
+knit 4, rib 3, &c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 15th
+row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 16th row; rib 6,
+increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second
+pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough,
+then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to
+the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends.
+
+
+_Scarf Edge._
+
+     Two needles and gold colored flox silk.
+
+Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken
+together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
+taken together, knit 2 stitches.
+
+A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern.
+
+
+_Scarf._
+
+     Two needles No. 7.
+
+Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a
+stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib
+1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same.
+
+This scarf takes about 2-1/2 ounces of German lambs’-wool; it requires a
+wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends,
+which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the
+desired color, beginning with the darkest.
+
+
+_Netted Scarf._
+
+     On a foundation of 54 stitches.
+
+Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet,
+amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue,
+amber, and scarlet.
+
+
+_Porcupine Boa._
+
+     Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool
+forward, knit a stitch--this is the centre stitch of the pattern--bring
+the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2
+taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the
+4 stitches, &c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch
+off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continue this for
+6 rounds, increasing _before_ and _after_ every centre stitch, and
+knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the
+next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain
+rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2
+together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you
+decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this
+time.
+
+Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to
+count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you
+decrease.
+
+This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it
+with cotton wool and put strings to it.
+
+
+_Leggings._
+
+     Two ivory needles and rather fine lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2 inches, knitting and
+ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and
+increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60
+stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you
+increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to
+match the top. Sew them up.
+
+
+_Waistcoat._
+
+     Large Size.
+
+Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows,
+cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26
+stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14
+stitches, knit 38 rows.
+
+     The Sleeve.
+
+Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves
+a narrow bit to tack to the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open
+under the arm.
+
+
+_Knitted Waistcoat._
+
+Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows;
+cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows,
+cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows,
+cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows.
+
+     Sleeves.
+
+Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9
+rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for
+19.
+
+
+_Warm Tippet._
+
+     Two needles, No. 11.
+
+Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2
+taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows,
+then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions
+of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and
+knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther
+each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer
+stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards
+receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have
+now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6
+stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick
+up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward,
+slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end
+of the row without any more increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches
+in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the
+increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1
+(instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows,
+and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the
+first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted
+10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the
+gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the
+end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches
+and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2
+stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset
+again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the
+gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of
+stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the
+thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip
+another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitches
+together, bring the thread forward and go on. In the next row, when you
+come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3
+stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the
+10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole
+rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the
+cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must
+increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased.
+
+
+_Night Cap._
+
+     With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each
+needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam
+in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other
+round, until you have a sufficient number of stitches for the size of
+your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until
+your cap is 3/4 of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning,
+decreasing where you before increased.
+
+
+_Night Cap._
+
+     French Pattern.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4,
+next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre
+stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam
+(leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle.
+When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round
+until the cap is 3/4 of a yard long: make the end like the beginning.
+
+
+_Lambs’-wool Sleeve._
+
+Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the
+sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve
+is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser
+lambs’-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and
+finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half.
+
+
+_Cephaline._
+
+     To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms.
+
+     A mesh 3/4 of an inch wide and one 1/4 that width are required. It
+     may be netted in flox silk or fine lambs’-wool.
+
+Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are
+the middle rows). Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted
+with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine
+mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh
+2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60,
+and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a
+narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on
+the other side, beginning at the first narrow row.
+
+Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the
+Cephaline is made.
+
+
+_Diamond Knitting._
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the
+cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it,
+knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton
+forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain
+round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1,
+pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11
+stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
+repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted
+one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat
+these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the
+cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2
+together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
+slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat
+these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another
+round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond,
+and decrease the other half diamond to a point.
+
+
+_Another Diamond Knitting._
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the
+thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken
+together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward,
+knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
+the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this
+all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1
+and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain
+round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
+slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward
+knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together,
+bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1
+stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this
+all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3
+stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
+slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward
+and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see
+you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and
+you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle
+stitches of the larger diamond are _always_ plain knitting, and the 1st
+decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond.
+
+
+_Small Feather Pattern._
+
+     As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty
+     for a purse or mitten.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the
+thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch,
+thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice,
+knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice,
+increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds.
+Repeat these 4 rounds.
+
+
+_Double Eyelet Knitting._
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the
+thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together,
+knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1 stitch, repeat these 7
+stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds.
+
+
+_Gouty Shoes._
+
+For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1
+stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20
+stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12
+rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4
+times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row;
+twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch
+in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease
+3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row
+until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off.
+
+This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles
+No. 16.
+
+For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, with needles No. 8, and coarse
+lambs’-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25
+stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then
+2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit
+12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter.
+Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards,
+to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the
+sole on the wrong side.
+
+
+_To increase and decrease in Double Knitting._
+
+In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3
+rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the
+1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd
+row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you
+come to the increase, knit 1 stitch, and pass the next upon another
+needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from
+the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that
+you cannot increase less than two stitches at once.
+
+Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit
+2 _knitting_ stitches together passing the farther one over the
+intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches
+(instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2 _knitting_ stitches will come together,
+knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at
+once.
+
+
+_Double Knitted Soles._
+
+     To wear in the shoes.
+
+Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches
+in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24
+stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2 stitches every 2 rows until you
+have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20
+stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12
+stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the
+remaining 4 stitches.
+
+
+_Lambs’-wool Boot._
+
+     Four ivory needles and coarse lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2
+ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured
+lambs’-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease
+in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows;
+knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color,
+1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawing the lambs’-wool through
+2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom.
+
+
+_Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap._
+
+Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in
+double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in
+depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3
+turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the
+crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of
+double knitting, and run a ribbon through it.
+
+
+_Baby’s Hat._
+
+     Seven needles No. 16, are required.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round
+increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round
+increasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase.
+Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1
+round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always
+increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round,
+until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds
+alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round
+increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit
+and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the
+1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13
+welts, and cast off.
+
+Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape.
+
+
+_Baby’s Stockings._
+
+     With needles No. 15, and fine lambs’-wool.
+
+Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3
+rows increasing at the end of each. After this increase, at the end of
+every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take
+off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning
+at the _sloping_ side) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
+cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing.
+When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10
+stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches,
+increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but
+two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain
+rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches.
+Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit
+every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When
+knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie
+it round the ankle.
+
+
+_Baby’s Gaiters._
+
+Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the
+end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row.
+Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit
+18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a
+third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
+cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased
+to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches
+from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the
+side and knit the _legging_ as in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind
+the foot with white ribbon.
+
+
+_Baby’s Spencer._
+
+     Needles No. 14.
+
+Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In
+the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in the
+middle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches
+together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row
+afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the
+8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of
+the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14
+stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make
+the other to match it.
+
+The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th
+row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six
+times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of
+the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a
+stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are)
+until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need
+not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other
+end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing
+until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitches backwards and
+forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at
+the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down
+the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the
+buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make
+holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off.
+
+The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it
+wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches
+alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows.
+
+
+_Baby’s Stays._
+
+     To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambs’-wool. Needles No. 15.
+
+Cast on 204 stitches. The 6 _first_ and _last_ stitches are knitted
+every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6.
+Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the
+last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches, and,
+instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit
+and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row
+(consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row.
+Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast
+off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit
+the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1
+stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the
+rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the
+12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with
+the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and
+rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest.
+Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only
+are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and
+knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit
+and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and
+knit the rest. Rib and knit 12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches
+backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of
+the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on
+strings.
+
+
+_Baby’s Sock._
+
+     To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14,
+     and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.
+
+Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambs’-wool,
+knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and
+12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the
+piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles.
+Knit 6 _turns_, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have
+only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting
+1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel
+in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you
+have 60 stitches left. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle, divide the
+stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two
+rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56
+round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit one _round_ and
+cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe.
+
+For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14
+stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding).
+Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and
+the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side
+stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle
+every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2
+rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up
+a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34
+stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern
+as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit
+1 plain round adding a stitch after every third stitch, making in all
+64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches
+alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in
+front of the shoe.
+
+
+_Netted Curtain._
+
+     For a French Bed.
+
+With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the
+curtain.
+
+
+_Moorish Brioche or Cushion._
+
+     Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that
+     contrast well. Two needles, No. 12.
+
+Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by
+this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a
+stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 2nd row:
+bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with
+the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop
+and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6
+more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten
+on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring
+the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the
+row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the
+wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you
+slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit
+8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these
+divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net
+a fringe with double coarse lambs’-wool to the narrow part, and run in a
+string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round
+cushion, and cover it with the knitting.
+
+
+_A Blanket._
+
+     Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse.
+
+Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with
+the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it,
+knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you
+will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only
+difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it
+together.
+
+These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty.
+
+
+_Blanket in strips._
+
+     Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern.
+
+Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows common knitting; then begin double
+knitting,[106-*] knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border,
+knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again;
+continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty
+if the squares are done in different colors.
+
+     [106-*] See Contents--Double Knitting. For a blanket it is better
+     to put the wool twice round the needle in the knitted stitches.
+
+
+_Netted Lace._
+
+     Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the
+     number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for.
+     216 will make about a yard.
+
+Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh 1/4 of an inch wide, or a trifle wider,
+net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the
+next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the
+row. Take the small mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a
+single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh.
+
+
+_Puff Netting._
+
+     Very pretty for caps.
+
+Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9
+stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net
+3 rows, 1 stitch in _every_ stitch. In the next row (which will make the
+5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the
+following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again.
+
+
+_A Cool Night-cap._
+
+     Puff netting.
+
+     The mesh to be 1/4 inch wide.
+
+Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the
+4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this
+all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch in _every_ stitch. In the
+next round take the 5 plain stitches as _one_, net 5 stitches, repeat
+all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after
+the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the
+cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and
+tie the top string tight.
+
+
+_Suspenders._
+
+     Two needles No. 16.
+
+Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the
+thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on
+another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is
+long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knit up the
+other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the
+thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double
+knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the
+needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2,
+which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch
+first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th
+and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch.
+Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were
+going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right
+hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled.
+Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double
+knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish
+in a point.
+
+These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the
+first series.
+
+
+_Parisian Net Knitting._
+
+     This pattern is very pretty for a foot-muff, blanket, or sofa
+     guard.
+
+     Take German lambs’-wool of two colors that contrast well; pink and
+     white form a pretty mixture.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches, and with the white wool knit several
+rows before beginning the pattern. 1st row; fasten on the pink wool
+forward, knit the first stitch with the white wool, pass the pink round
+the needle bringing it forward again, and purl the next stitch with it;
+pass the purled stitch on to the left-hand needle and knit it with the
+white wool, knit 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round the
+needle, purl 1 stitch and pass it back on to the left-hand needle, knit
+it and the following stitch with the white wool; continue the same to
+the end of the row. 2nd row; purl the white stitches with the white
+wool, and slip the pink loops, taking care not to twist them or change
+the side which is forward. 3rd row; knit the white stitches with the
+white wool and slip the pink loops. 4th row; purl the 1st stitch with
+the white wool, turn the pink wool (which is now behind) round the
+needle, and with it knit the pink loop and following white stitch taken
+together, slip the stitch on to the left hand needle and purl it with
+the white wool, purl 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round
+the needle, and knit with it the pink loop and following stitch taken
+together, slip it on to the other needle and purl it with the white
+wool, repeat the same to the end. 5th row; knit all the white stitches
+with the white wool and slip the pink loops. 6th row; purl the white
+stitches with the white wool and slip the pink. 7th row; knit 1 stitch
+with the white wool, pass the pink wool (which is forward) round the
+needle and with it purl the pink loop and following white stitch taken
+together, observing to take the pink loop by the under side, slip the
+stitch on to the left hand needle and knit it and the following white
+stitch with the white wool; repeat the same to the end of the row: as
+the 7th row takes the place of the 1st, continue with the 2nd row.
+
+
+_Diamond Knitting._
+
+Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. 1st round: knit 12 stitches, knit
+2 taken together, and bring the cotton forward; repeat the same. 2nd
+round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 9, knit 2 taken together and
+bring the cotton forward, knit 1 and bring the cotton forward again. 3rd
+round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the cotton forward, knit 3, and bring the cotton forward again.
+4th round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 5, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, and bring the cotton forward
+again. 5th round: knit 2 taken together, knit 3, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the cotton forward, knit 7, bring the cotton forward. 6th round:
+knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring
+the cotton forward, knit 9, bring the cotton forward. 7th round: knit 3
+taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, bring the cotton
+forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 4, bring the cotton forward. Begin
+again.
+
+
+_Four Patterns, for D’Oyleys, Toilet Covers, Baby’s Quilts, or Basket
+Napkins._
+
+     Two needles, No. 22 or 23, and very fine knitting cotton.
+
+
+No. 1.
+
+Cast on a number of stitches that will divide into an even number of
+threes. _Knit and rib_ 3 stitches alternately for 3 rounds. In the next
+3 rounds, _rib and knit_ 3 stitches alternately.
+
+
+No. 2.
+
+Cast on a number of stitches as for the last pattern. Knit and rib 3
+stitches alternately for 2 rows. The following rows begin so as to bring
+the first ribbed stitch over the last knitted: this is to make the
+ribbed and knitted ridges go in diagonal stripes.
+
+
+No. 3.
+
+Cast on a number of stitches that will divide by 10. Knit 1 stitch, rib
+9, repeat the same to the end of the row. 2nd row: rib 1 stitch, knit 7,
+rib 2. 3rd row: knit 3, rib 5, knit 2. 4th row: rib 3, knit 3, rib 4.
+5th row: knit 5, rib 1, knit 4. 6th row: knit 4, rib 1, knit 5. 7th row:
+rib 4, knit 3, rib 3. 8th row: knit 2, rib 5, knit 3. 9th row: rib 2,
+knit 7, rib 1. 10th row: rib 9, knit 1. Begin again.
+
+
+No. 4.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row: knit every stitch with the
+cotton twice round the needle. 2nd row: begin by dropping one twist of
+the 1st stitch, knit the rest of this stitch with the 1st twist of the
+next, taking them together; finish the row, knitting 2 threads taken
+together, knit the last stitch. Begin again.
+
+
+_Mazaniello Cap._
+
+     Four Needles,
+     And Wool of two colors which contrast well.
+
+Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row is purled. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch and
+knit the row taking two stitches together to the last stitch which knit.
+3rd row; slip the 1st stitch, purl the next, raise a loop between this
+stitch and the next and purl it, repeat these 2 stitches to the end. 4th
+row; knit plain. These 4 rows form one stripe of diamonds. Take the
+second colored wool and purl 1 row, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows.
+Repeat these 8 rows until you have 15 stripes of diamonds in each
+colour: Cast off.
+
+Pick up 60 stitches on the side of the piece you have been knitting;
+(i. e. 2 in each stripe of diamonds). Take first the 2nd color and
+afterwards the 1st, and repeat the 4 rows as given above, until you have
+7 stripes of one color and 6 of the other. Cast off loosely. This piece,
+when the cap is finished is _wrong side_ outwards as it is to be turned
+up all round.
+
+To finish the crown, pick up 60 stitches on 3 needles and with the 2nd
+color repeat the pattern, observing that its right side must be the
+right side of the cap, (consequently the wrong side of the piece at the
+bottom). In the 4th round reduce 1 stitch in every 4. Repeat the pattern
+with the 1st colors. In the 4th round, knit 2, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat to the end of the round. In the 4th round of the 3rd round of
+diamonds reduce every other stitch. In the 4th round of the 4th round
+of diamonds, thread a worsted needle with the wool and pass it through
+all the stitches, draw them up tight and fasten off.
+
+The cap may be finished with a cord and tassel to match in colors, or
+with a tassel only.
+
+
+_Muff, in Spots or Stars._
+
+     Two wooden needles, No. 10, and for a small muff 1 ounce of blue
+     and 1 ounce of black fleecy. Double that quantity for a large size.
+
+For a small muff cast on 60 stitches, for a large one 84. The number
+must divide into 3 equal numbers. Cast on the stitches with the black
+wool, purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, (every 2nd row with the black wool must begin like this)
+bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches pull the first over the 2 last,
+repeat these 3 stitches to the end, when you will find you have one
+stitch left, bring the wool forward and knit it. Join on the blue wool
+and purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken together,
+knit 2 stitches and pull the stitch in which you decreased over them,
+(every 2nd blue row begins thus) bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches
+pull the 1st over the 2 last, repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the
+row. Use the black wool and repeat the whole. For a small muff do 21
+stripes of each color, for a large one 42. Cast off.
+
+To make up a small muff you must buy 5-8ths of gros-de-naples, 1-1/2 oz.
+of fine carded wool and 1 oz. of fine horse-hair. Double the silk in
+halves and place on it 1 layer of wool. 1 layer of horse-hair and a
+second layer of wool. Quilt these to one-half of the silk and fold the
+other half over, and sew it to the knitted cover; turn the muff inside
+out and sew up first the knitted part and then the silk. Finish the muff
+at the edges by a cord or a quilling of ribbon.
+
+
+_Another Muff._
+
+     Two needles No. 10 and 3 skeins of coarse fleecy.
+
+Cast on sixty stitches. Knit 1 row; rib 1 row; knit 1 row taking 2
+stitches together all the way. 4th row; knit 1 stitch, pick up and knit
+a loop between the stitches, continue the same to the end of the row. As
+by this you would lose 1 stitch, this must be prevented by picking up
+and knitting a loop alternately, before beginning or at the end of every
+4th row.
+
+Make up the muff like the preceding pattern.
+
+
+
+
+TERMS USED IN KNITTING.
+
+
+  _A turn_ means two rows.
+
+  _To turn_ means to change from plain to purled stitches, or the
+    reverse.
+
+  _A ridge_ is formed by two rows when knitting with only two pins.
+
+  _A loop stitch_ is formed by passing the thread before the needle,
+    and, in _knitting_ the next stitch, letting it take its usual place.
+
+  _To increase in knitting a Quilt_, care should always be taken to
+    increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by
+    knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting
+    a second at the back.
+
+  _To fasten on in knitting._ It is a secure fastening to lay the two
+    ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them
+    both.
+
+  _To narrow_ or _decrease_ is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a
+    stocking.
+
+  _Ribbed stitch_, _purl stitch_, _turned_, or _seam stitch_, are all
+    terms having the same meaning. A turned stitch is made by bringing
+    the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over
+    the upper cotton, it is put under.
+
+  _To slip_, _take off_, or _pass a stitch_, is to change it from one
+    needle to another without knitting it.
+
+  _To take under_, means to pass the right hand needle through the
+    stitch on the left hand one, so as still to keep the same side of
+    the stitch towards you.
+
+  _Welts_ are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of
+    stockings, to prevent their rolling up.
+
+  _Cast off_ means to end your work in the following manner: knit 2
+    stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same
+    until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your
+    cotton through it.
+
+  _To decrease_ is to lessen the number of stitches by knitting 2 taken
+    together.
+
+  _To increase_, or _make a double stitch_, is to knit one stitch in the
+    usual way, then, without slipping out the left hand needle, to pass
+    the thread forward and knit a second stitch, putting the needle
+    under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is
+    finished.
+
+  _Hang on_, means cast on.
+
+  _Bring the thread forward_, means to pass it between the needles
+    towards you.
+
+  _Cast over_ is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters, to
+    signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express,
+    bring the cotton over the needle, quite round.
+
+  _Round the needle_, means the same as the last term.
+
+  _Reversed_, means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed
+    _over_ the needle, and then carried back to its place.
+
+  _Together_, means knit 2 stitches in 1.
+
+  _Set_, or _Tuft_, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the
+    Fringes.
+
+  _To widen_ means to increase.
+
+The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle gauge, as I am
+not aware there is any other rule for them.
+
+
+
+
+  =PUBLIC=
+  SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY,
+  BELGRAVE SQUARE.
+
+  To this Library every New Work of Interest is
+  added on the day of Publication.
+
+  TERMS:
+
+  Twelve months      £5  5 0
+  Six months          3  3 0
+  Three months        1 16 0
+
+  CARD PLATES ENGRAVED & PRINTED.
+
+  STATIONERY, &c.
+
+  =Agent for the Early Supply of Newspapers.=
+
+  JOHN MILAND,
+  _Chapel Street, Belgrave Square._
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber’s Note
+
+
+The following typographical errors were corrected:
+
+  Page   Error
+    ii  Chequed changed to Chequered
+     7  long enough. changed to long enough,
+    12  mesh, In changed to mesh. In
+    50  next round. by changed to next round by
+    69  the 9th, changed to the 9th.
+    73  86 stiches; changed to 86 stitches
+    82  and go on, changed to and go on.
+   110  sofa guard. changed to sofa guard,
+   122  needle guage changed to needle gauge
+
+The following words were inconsistently spelled:
+
+  D’Oyleys / Doyleys
+  Honey-comb / Honeycomb
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by 
+Miss Watts
+
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+    .padr2    {padding-right: 2em;}
+
+    .footnotes    {border-top: solid 1px; text-indent: 0.5em; font-size: 0.9em; text-align: justify; }
+    .label        {font-size: 0.8em; vertical-align: 0.3em; }
+    .fnanchor     {vertical-align: 0.3em; font-size: 0.8em; padding-left: 0.1em;}
+
+    ul.ix         {list-style-type: none; font-size:inherit;}
+    .subhead      {padding-left: 1em;}
+
+    .tn           {background-color: #EEE; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;}
+
+    </style>
+  </head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by Miss Watts
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book
+
+Author: Miss Watts
+
+Release Date: October 2, 2010 [EBook #33951]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="tn">
+<p class="titlepage"><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p>
+
+<p class="noindent">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections
+is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and
+hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled
+and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+
+
+<p class="titlepage">THE LADIES’<br />
+KNITTING AND NETTING<br />
+BOOK.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage">SECOND SERIES.</p>
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+
+
+<h1 class="chapterhead">THE LADIES’ KNITTING<br />
+AND NETTING<br />
+BOOK.<br />
+<br />
+<span class="size70">BY MISS WATTS.</span></h1>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="titlepage">SECOND SERIES.</p>
+
+<hr class="decshort" />
+
+<p class="titlepage">Second Edition.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage">ENTERED AT STATIONERS’ HALL.</p>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="titlepage">LONDON:<br />
+JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET,<br />
+BELGRAVE SQUARE.</p>
+
+<hr class="decshort" />
+
+<p class="titlepage">1840.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+
+<p class="titlepage">Lessons given in knitting and netting.<br />
+For terms and address, apply to the Publisher.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepagetop2">W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[i]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+<table summary="table of contents">
+<tr>
+  <td></td>
+  <td class="tdr">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Gentlemens_Knitted_Gloves">1</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Netted ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Gloves">3</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Feather ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Feather_Gloves">5</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Plain open Mittens</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Plain_open_Mittens">8</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Another Plain ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_plain_Mitten">10</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Annet ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Annet_Mittens">11</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Honeycomb ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Honey-comb_Mittens">13</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Matrimony ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Matrimony_Mittens">15</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Lambs’-wool ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Lambs-wool_Mittens">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Round Netted ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Mitten_in_Round_Netting">17</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Mittens">18</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Feather Mits</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Feather_Mits">20</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Cuffs, Peacock Stitch</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Cuffs_Peacock_Stitch">21</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Netted Cuffs</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Cuffs">22</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Warm ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Warm_Cuffs">23</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Muffatees</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Muffatees">24</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Muffatees_2">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Gentlemen’s ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Gentlemens_Muffatees">25</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Cushion Cover</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Cushion_Cover">26</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Sofa Pillow ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Sofa_Pillow_Cover">27</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Striped Cushion ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Striped_Cushion_Cover">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Knitted Mat, with Fringe</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Knitted_Mat_with_Fringe">28</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Netted Mat</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Mat">30</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span>Vase ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Knitted_Vase_Mat">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Table mats</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Table_Mats">31</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Table ditto, in one piece</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Table_Mat">32</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Napkin Ring</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Napkin_Ring">33</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>A Pence Purse, or Jug</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#A_Pence_Purse">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Bouquetier. No. 1.</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Bouquetier_No_1">35</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Ditto No. 2.</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Bouquetier_No_2">36</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Tidy Basket</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Tidy_Basket">37</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Ladder Stitch Bag</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Ladder_Stitch_Bag">38</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Crossed Stitch ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Crossed_Stitch_Bag">39</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Netted ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Bag">40</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Fringe</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Fringe">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Netted ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Fringe">41</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Scarf ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Scarf_Fringe">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Fringe</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Fringe_2">42</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Rug ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Rug_Fringe">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Carriage Rug</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Carriage_Rug">43</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Striped Purse</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Striped_Purse">44</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a>Chequered ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Chequered_Purse">45</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Purse in Round Netting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Purse_in_Round_Netting">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Matrimony&mdash;For a Purse</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Matrimony">46</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Another</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Matrimony">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Annet Purse</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Annet_Purse">47</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Honeycomb Purse</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Honey-comb_Purse">48</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Another Honeycomb</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Honey-comb">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Netted Purse</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Purse">49</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Single Diamond Netting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Single_Diamond_Netting">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Treble ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Treble_Diamond_Netting">50</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Knitted Purse</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Knitted_Purse">52</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Stitches for Purses. No. 1.</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_1">53</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent4">Ditto. <span class="indent2">No. 2.</span></td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_2">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent4">Ditto.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  No. 3.</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_3">54</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent4">Ditto.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  No. 4.</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_4">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent4"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span>Ditto.&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  No. 5.</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_5">55</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Stitches for Purses. No. 6</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_6">56</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent4">Ditto&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; No. 7</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Stitches_for_Purses_No_7">57</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Bead Netting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Bead_Netting">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent2">Ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Bead_Netting_2">58</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Dice Knitting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Dice_Knitting">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Open Fan, for a Quilt</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Open_Fan_for_a_Quilt">60</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Gauffre Fans, for ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Gauffre_Fans_for_a_Quilt">62</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Ribbed Squares, for ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Ribbed_Squares">64</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Open work Fan, for ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Open_work_Fan">65</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>An Open Border</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#An_open_Border">66</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Another Border</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Border">67</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>A Last Border, for a Quilt</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#A_Last_Border">68</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Grecian Border</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Grecian_Border">69</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Diamond Knitting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Diamond_Knitting">70</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Border for a Table Cover</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Border_for_a_Table_Cover">71</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Border and Fringe</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Border_and_Fringe">72</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Scarf for the Throat</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Scarf_for_the_Throat">73</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Scarf Edge</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Scarf_Edge">74</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Scarf</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Scarf">75</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Netted ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Scarf">76</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Porcupine Boa</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Porcupine_Boa">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Leggings</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Leggings">77</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Waistcoat</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Waistcoat">78</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Knitted ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Knitted_Waistcoat">79</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Warm Tippet</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Warm_Tippet">80</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Night Cap</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Night_Cap">82</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent2">Ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Night_Cap_2">83</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Lambs’-wool sleeve</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Lambs-wool_Sleeve">84</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Cephaline</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Cephaline">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Diamond Knitting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Diamond_Knitting_2">85</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Another ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Diamond_Knitting">87</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Small Feather Pattern</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Small_Feather_Pattern">89</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span>Double Eyelet Knitting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Double_Eyelet_Knitting">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Gouty Shoes</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Gouty_Shoes">90</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#To_increase_and_decrease">91</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Double Knitted Soles</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Double_Knitted_Soles">92</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Lambs’-wool Boot</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Lambs-wool_Boot">93</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Lambs-wool_Cap">94</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent2">Ditto Hat</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Hat">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent2">Ditto Stockings</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Stockings">95</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent2">Ditto Gaiters</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Gaiters">97</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent2">Ditto Spencer</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Spencer">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent2">Ditto Stays</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Stays">99</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="indent2">Ditto Socks</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Babys_Sock">101</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Netted Curtain</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Curtain">103</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Brioche</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Moorish_Brioche">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>A Blanket</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#A_Blanket">105</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Blanket in strips</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Blanket_in_strips">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Netted Lace</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Netted_Lace">106</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Puff Netting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Puff_Netting">107</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>A Cool Night-cap</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#A_Cool_Night-cap">ib.</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Suspenders</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Suspenders">108</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Parisian Net Knitting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Parisian_Net_Knitting">110</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Diamond Knitting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Diamond_Knitting_3">112</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Four Patterns for Doyleys, &amp;c.</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Four_Patterns">113</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Mazaniello Cap</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Mazaniello_Cap">115</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Muff</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Muff_in_Spots">117</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Ditto</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#Another_Muff">119</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Terms used in Knitting</td>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#TERMS_USED_IN_KNITTING">120</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="THE_LADIES_KNITTING_AND_NETTING_BOOK" id="THE_LADIES_KNITTING_AND_NETTING_BOOK"></a>THE LADIES’ KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK.</h2>
+
+<p class="titlepage">SECOND SERIES.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Gentlemens_Knitted_Gloves" id="Gentlemens_Knitted_Gloves"></a><i>Gentlemen’s Knitted Gloves.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit
+round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done
+about one inch, continue with plain <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>knitting<a name="FNanchor_2-1_1" id="FNanchor_2-1_1" href="#Footnote_2-1_1" class="fnanchor">2-*</a> until your glove is
+long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting
+twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it
+again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a
+needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round
+before and after the last increase; continue this until you have
+stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except
+those for the thumb, on two <i>other</i> needles; divide the stitches for the
+thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the
+join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted
+needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your
+needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset;
+knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the
+gusset: knit plain until the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> glove is long enough to begin the fingers;
+begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as
+you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and
+21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the
+first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset,
+these may be decreased or not according to the size required.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Gloves" id="Netted_Gloves"></a><i>Netted Gloves.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk
+fine.</p>
+
+<p>Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round,
+putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run
+the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by
+netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next
+stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round,
+before and after<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for
+rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the
+stitches for the thumb <i>round</i>, when you have done 1 round decrease once
+in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is
+long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the
+end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at
+the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5
+rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds
+according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16
+stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other
+fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of
+two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the
+<i>finished</i> finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the
+gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth.
+Run a pattern on the back with flox silk.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Feather_Gloves" id="Feather_Gloves"></a><i>Feather Gloves.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit
+round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half
+an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton <i>round the needle</i>, and
+knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the
+ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain
+and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring
+the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by
+knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the
+centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and
+repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches,
+which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds
+until the glove is long enough to begin to increase<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> for the thumb:
+after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a
+stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in
+the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round,
+continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9
+stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing,
+knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the
+thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch,
+knit 1 stitch, increase as before.</p>
+
+<p>When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st
+needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a
+stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease
+twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next
+round of the holes of the <i>pattern</i> you will have 17 stitches for the
+thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease
+twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2,
+increase 1. In<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern
+down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with
+the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be
+knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round,
+take all the other stitches on 2 <i>other</i> needles, and knit the thumb
+round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb
+is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before,
+take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and
+continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd
+stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if
+you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease
+the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle:
+continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long <a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a>enough, begin
+the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19;
+knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when
+you have done this finger, take<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> up 4 stitches for the gusset at the
+bottom of the 1st finger,<a name="FNanchor_8-1_2" id="FNanchor_8-1_2" href="#Footnote_8-1_2" class="fnanchor">8-*</a> 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern.
+The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19
+of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of
+the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset
+stitches.</p>
+
+<p>When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow
+ribbon in the holes.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Plain_open_Mittens" id="Plain_open_Mittens"></a><i>Plain open Mittens.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No.
+14, and moderately fine silk.</p>
+
+<p>Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the
+ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next
+round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following
+stitches, complete the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> round, and net 2 rounds without increase.
+Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which
+you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches
+every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make
+the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made <i>over</i> each
+other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net
+the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together,
+if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough
+net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round,
+taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the
+fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of
+the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the
+mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the
+thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can
+be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_plain_Mitten" id="Another_plain_Mitten"></a><i>Another plain Mitten.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">On a smaller mesh than the preceding.</p>
+
+<p>Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 <i>rows</i> with the silk once
+round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with
+it once. Now begin to net <i>rounds</i> instead of <i>rows</i>, by netting the
+last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches,
+increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a
+stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and
+net another round without increase. Increase <i>outside</i> the last
+additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional
+stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase <i>within</i> the
+additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time <i>within</i> the
+last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the
+stitch <i>over</i> the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding
+stitch on the other side of the thumb, net<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> round the thumb (decreasing
+to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by
+netting 1 round with double silk <i>twice</i>, and 3 rounds with single silk
+<i>once</i>, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the
+side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2
+rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and
+net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4
+rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done
+on rather a finer mesh.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Annet_Mittens" id="Annet_Mittens"></a><i>Annet Mittens.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 <i>rows</i>; then net 1 row with the silk twice
+round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net
+<i>rounds</i> instead of <i>rows</i>. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk
+passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the
+2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of
+the 1st,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the
+4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat
+these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the
+silk twice round the <a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a>mesh. In the next round, which is like the second,
+care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the
+last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round
+the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2
+stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk
+passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1
+round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these
+rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2
+stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further
+back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting
+from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4
+rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side <i>over</i> the last
+additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> proceed to make the thumb as
+directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net
+1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next
+round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the
+last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the
+silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the
+alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Honey-comb_Mittens" id="Honey-comb_Mittens"></a><i>Honey-comb Mittens.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Net 3 <i>rows</i>. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows
+once round the mesh; then begin netting in <i>rounds</i>. 1st round, for
+every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch
+once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net
+the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the
+3rd<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate
+repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning
+the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a
+plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued
+throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is
+given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th,
+net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again
+2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in
+which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more.
+Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each
+side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds,
+and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease
+if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with
+double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round
+twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom
+of the thumb, add 1<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds
+of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the
+thumb.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Matrimony_Mittens" id="Matrimony_Mittens"></a><i>Matrimony Mittens.</i></h3>
+
+<p>The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last
+mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As
+this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The
+mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches.</p>
+
+<p class="blockquot"><i>Note.</i>&mdash;It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens,
+begin with <i>rows</i> instead of <i>rounds</i>, this is to prevent the
+necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken
+off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is
+made on the other.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Lambs-wool_Mittens" id="Lambs-wool_Mittens"></a><i>Lambs’-wool Mittens.</i></h3>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="material">This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up.</p>
+
+<p class="material2">Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of
+an inch wide.</p>
+
+<p>Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net
+2 rows with lambs’-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd.
+Repeat these rows of lambs’-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of
+the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same
+back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, these
+stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net
+2 rows of lambs’-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of
+silk, 2 rows of lambs’-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambs’-wool, and 1 of silk.
+All the rows of lambs’-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of
+silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in
+at the top of the first row of silk.</p>
+
+<p>This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Mitten_in_Round_Netting" id="Mitten_in_Round_Netting"></a><i>Mitten in Round Netting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round
+netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice
+round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking
+care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you
+give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2
+stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in
+the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the
+stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time);
+increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each
+increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several
+rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be
+joined together. Join the first and last stitches over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> the last added
+stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit.
+When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the
+bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the
+hand part of the mitten is long enough.</p>
+
+<p>If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a
+round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next
+round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Mittens" id="Mittens"></a><i>Mittens.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">With a leaf wreath round the top.</p>
+
+<p class="material2">Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required,
+for instance brown and blue.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one
+round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2
+stitches bringing the silk forward between<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> each, knit 3 stitches,
+repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the
+brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds
+of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of
+blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4
+brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4
+brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue,
+4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4
+blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1
+round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same
+reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds
+decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward,
+knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain
+round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear;
+then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14
+stitches on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before
+until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as
+before and finish with a brown round.</p>
+
+<p>Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes,
+and finish with a brown round.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Feather_Mits" id="Feather_Mits"></a><i>Feather Mits.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going
+to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambs’-wool
+are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half
+or a whole skein of wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a
+plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice;
+decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the
+centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3
+times; increase 3 times;<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit
+3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Cuffs_Peacock_Stitch" id="Cuffs_Peacock_Stitch"></a><i>Cuffs, Peacock Stitch.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are
+required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches,
+bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward
+between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round.
+Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
+the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2
+stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat
+this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the
+purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>
+stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the
+thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the
+cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Cuffs" id="Netted_Cuffs"></a><i>Netted Cuffs.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Four skeins of colored lambs’-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No.
+14, a flat wooden mesh ½ an inch wide, and a foundation of 120
+stitches, are required.</p>
+
+<p>Net 2 rows of colored lambs’-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white
+lambs’-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2
+white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number;
+net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &amp;c., until
+there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored
+between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> stitches in
+every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored.</p>
+
+<p>Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and
+pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the
+wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Warm_Cuffs" id="Warm_Cuffs"></a><i>Warm Cuffs.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles;
+knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle;
+rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2
+rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12
+rows as at first.</p>
+
+<p>Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Muffatees" id="Muffatees"></a><i>Muffatees.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing
+3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is
+about six inches long, begin double knitting<a name="FNanchor_24-1_3" id="FNanchor_24-1_3" href="#Footnote_24-1_3" class="fnanchor">24-*</a> on coarser needles;
+when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off;
+sew up the part that is in double knitting.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Muffatees_2" id="Muffatees_2"></a><i>Muffatees.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color
+may be varied at pleasure.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these
+rows, reckoning the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long
+enough cast off and sew it up.</p>
+
+<p>These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Gentlemens_Muffatees" id="Gentlemens_Muffatees"></a><i>Gentlemen’s Muffatees.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambs’-wool and 4 of
+white.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2
+stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every
+row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish
+the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up.</p>
+
+<p>These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the
+sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse
+lambs’-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on
+smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Cushion_Cover" id="Cushion_Cover"></a><i>Cushion Cover.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or
+German lambs’-wool, white or colored, according to fancy.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your
+4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st
+stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd,
+the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an
+odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next
+needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd
+stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the
+next needle.</p>
+
+<p>When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square,
+knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and
+surround it with a cord or fringe.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Sofa_Pillow_Cover" id="Sofa_Pillow_Cover"></a><i>Sofa Pillow Cover.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four Needles No. 11.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread
+twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd
+stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd
+stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round
+with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these
+two rounds form the pattern.</p>
+
+<p class="top1">When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard)
+cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Striped_Cushion_Cover" id="Striped_Cushion_Cover"></a><i>Striped Cushion Cover.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch
+slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd,
+the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is
+the same.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Knitted_Mat_with_Fringe" id="Knitted_Mat_with_Fringe"></a><i>Knitted Mat with Fringe.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambs’-wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by
+bringing the wool forward before <i>every</i> stitch every 3rd round, until
+you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round,
+increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1
+round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round
+increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round;
+purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool
+with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you
+will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3½
+inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> lengths together and loop
+in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the
+needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third
+finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit
+of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the
+left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next
+round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round,
+and cast off.</p>
+
+<p>Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round
+before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1
+round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off.</p>
+
+<p>Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize
+or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to
+the edge of the card all round.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Mat" id="Netted_Mat"></a><i>Netted Mat.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">To put between plates.</p>
+
+<p>This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a ¼ of an inch
+wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24
+rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the
+mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie
+it tight, (this is the centre).</p>
+
+<p>Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a
+round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a
+fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Knitted_Vase_Mat" id="Knitted_Vase_Mat"></a><i>Knitted Vase Mat.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very
+pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15;
+knit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a
+point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in
+the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former
+vol.)</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Table_Mats" id="Table_Mats"></a><i>Table Mats.</i></h3>
+
+<p>These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces.</p>
+
+<p>Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the
+2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the
+cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be
+repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to
+prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit
+16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you
+knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn,
+until you knit 18 and back again; cast off.</p>
+
+<p>End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> stitches, increase 1, knit to
+within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of
+the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to
+leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind
+and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time,
+without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off.</p>
+
+<p>Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and
+surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the
+size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side
+pieces.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Table_Mat" id="Table_Mat"></a><i>Table Mat.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">In one piece.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21;
+increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches;
+increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> have 32 stitches; knit 8
+rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond,
+decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The
+size can be altered by varying the size of the pins.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Napkin_Ring" id="Napkin_Ring"></a><i>Napkin Ring.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather
+fine pins.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit
+3 rounds, and cast off rather tight.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="A_Pence_Purse" id="A_Pence_Purse"></a><i>A Pence Purse, or Jug.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambs’-wool of
+different colors, are required.</p>
+
+<p>Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and
+forwards, in common <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop
+6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third,
+(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting
+2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2,
+rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped
+stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until
+within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2;
+on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this
+round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will
+find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2
+alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner,
+then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain
+knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a
+stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color,
+knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and
+knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> round and
+3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4
+needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing
+1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing
+alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3
+rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape;
+divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds
+without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so,
+until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted
+needle, and sew down the handle.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Bouquetier_No_1" id="Bouquetier_No_1"></a><i>Bouquetier.</i> No. 1.</h3>
+
+<p class="material">You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round
+knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> 44 or 48
+rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing
+by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3;
+and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round
+bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each
+needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain,
+continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round)
+until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th
+needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib
+alternate <i>rows</i>, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in
+the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same
+manner.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Bouquetier_No_2" id="Bouquetier_No_2"></a><i>Bouquetier.</i> No. 2.</h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four needles No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches
+alternately for 48 rounds.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> Then knit and rib alternate <i>rounds</i>,
+increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until
+you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit
+backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1
+stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were
+rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Tidy_Basket" id="Tidy_Basket"></a><i>Tidy Basket.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4
+stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide
+your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing
+3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third.
+Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3
+rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the
+largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4
+stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle,
+until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which
+were left on the opposite side of the basket.</p>
+
+<p>Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and
+fasten it to the bottom on the inside.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Ladder_Stitch_Bag" id="Ladder_Stitch_Bag"></a><i>Ladder Stitch Bag.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately;
+and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following
+rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12
+rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to
+form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the
+next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over
+the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the
+same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern
+until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make
+the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon
+round the top.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Crossed_Stitch_Bag" id="Crossed_Stitch_Bag"></a><i>Crossed Stitch Bag.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the
+needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the
+1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the
+same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the
+needle.</p>
+
+<p>When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the
+sides.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Bag" id="Netted_Bag"></a><i>Netted Bag.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">To hold the ball when knitting.</p>
+
+<p>These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of
+course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are
+very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh
+should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring,
+(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently
+long.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Fringe" id="Fringe"></a><i>Fringe.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit
+2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with
+the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit
+the remaining 6 plain; continue<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> these 2 rows until the fringe is the
+length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel
+the 6 stitches of plain knitting.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Fringe" id="Netted_Fringe"></a><i>Netted Fringe.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">To go round a bag.</p>
+
+<p>Net 300 stitches on a mesh ½ an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No.
+15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row,
+putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh.
+Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe.
+<i>Cut</i> it off of the foundation.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Scarf_Fringe" id="Scarf_Fringe"></a><i>Scarf Fringe.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
+taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the
+silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2
+rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off
+6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Fringe_2" id="Fringe_2"></a><i>Fringe.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and
+knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken
+together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a
+sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the
+fringe.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Rug_Fringe" id="Rug_Fringe"></a><i>Rug Fringe.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some
+yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two
+inches.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of
+yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right
+hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until
+within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is
+plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat
+these two rows.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Carriage_Rug" id="Carriage_Rug"></a><i>Carriage Rug.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and
+some coarse <i>yarn</i> cut into lengths of about two inches.</p>
+
+<p>With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place
+1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side;
+knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the
+needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end
+and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>
+you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the
+row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the
+strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another.
+When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm
+mat.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Striped_Purse" id="Striped_Purse"></a><i>Striped Purse.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide.</p>
+
+<p>Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in
+the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it),
+then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of
+the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the
+mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse
+is wide enough.</p>
+
+<p>N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and
+netted in shades of different colors.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Chequered_Purse" id="Chequered_Purse"></a><i>Chequered Purse.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares.</p>
+
+<p>Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6
+stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the
+pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the
+rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over
+the brown, and the brown over the pink.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Purse_in_Round_Netting" id="Purse_in_Round_Netting"></a><i>Purse in Round Netting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide.</p>
+
+<p>Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch
+(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed
+under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Matrimony" id="Matrimony"></a><i>Matrimony.&mdash;For a Purse.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing
+the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them
+together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain
+netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net
+the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it
+will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the
+pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat
+the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Matrimony" id="Another_Matrimony"></a><i>Another.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row,
+passing the silk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,)
+net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net
+the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches
+until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Annet_Purse" id="Annet_Purse"></a><i>Annet Purse.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd
+row, pull the 1st stitch <i>through</i> the 2nd from the back, net it; pull
+the 2nd stitch through the <i>middle</i> of the 1st, (taking care not to
+twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th
+through the <i>middle</i> of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the
+end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain
+before beginning the pattern.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Honey-comb_Purse" id="Honey-comb_Purse"></a><i>Honey-comb Purse.</i></h3>
+
+<p>On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd
+stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to
+half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning
+it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the
+row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain
+before beginning the pattern.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Honey-comb" id="Another_Honey-comb"></a><i>Another Honey-comb.</i></h3>
+
+<p>On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round
+the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the
+1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches
+together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to
+the end of the row. Next row begin again.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Purse" id="Netted_Purse"></a><i>Netted Purse.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">In two colors.</p>
+
+<p>Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80
+or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate
+stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this
+change of color, every row is the same.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Single_Diamond_Netting" id="Single_Diamond_Netting"></a><i>Single Diamond Netting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a
+purse four inches wide.</p>
+
+<p>Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once
+round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on
+alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch
+once round the mesh,) draw<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> out the mesh, put it in one of the long
+stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch;
+the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds
+until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead
+of netting <i>round</i> the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The
+1st stitch in the 1st <i>row</i> is once <i>round</i> the mesh, the 2nd twice, the
+3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &amp;c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch
+has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full
+length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch.
+When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net
+round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round
+the purse will be once round the mesh.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Treble_Diamond_Netting" id="Treble_Diamond_Netting"></a><i>Treble Diamond Netting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18.</p>
+
+<p>Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next <a name="corr4" id="corr4"></a>round<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> by putting the silk twice
+round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once
+round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed.
+Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the
+long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net
+the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip
+them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the
+2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end
+of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh.
+Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1
+stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the
+mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the
+round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch;
+repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st
+round, viz.&mdash;1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the
+silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough
+to begin the opening,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> which should be begun in a round after that in
+which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round
+it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice
+round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of
+the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the
+mesh, slip them off, &amp;c. as directed before. When the slit is long
+enough, begin to net in <i>rounds</i> instead of <i>rows</i>, taking care to make
+the diamond stitches match.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Knitted_Purse" id="Knitted_Purse"></a><i>Knitted Purse.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four needles are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring
+the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken
+together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round,
+is the same as the 1st. 4th<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the
+silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch,
+knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all
+round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_1" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_1"></a><i>Stitches for Purses.</i> No. 1.</h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four needles are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In
+beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,)
+knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and
+continue the same until the purse is long enough.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_2" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_2"></a>No. 2.</p>
+
+<p class="material">With 2 needles.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit
+2 stitches and pass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat
+the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_3" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_3"></a>No. 3.</p>
+
+<p class="material">With 2 needles.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over
+the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &amp;c. to the end of
+the row. Knit a plain row and begin again.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_4" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_4"></a>No. 4.</p>
+
+<p class="material">On 2 needles.</p>
+
+<p>Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped
+stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the
+row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> pattern, but in the 3rd
+row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the
+pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over
+the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by
+knitting 1 stitch.</p>
+
+<p>This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of
+each.</p>
+
+
+<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_5" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_5"></a>No. 5.</p>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches
+together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch,
+rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &amp;c. to the end of
+the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when
+you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the
+last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the
+1st row.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_6" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_6"></a>No. 6.</p>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2
+stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the
+1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last
+stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick
+up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and
+knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after
+twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the
+thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch,
+continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the
+1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole
+and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to
+the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p><a name="Stitches_for_Purses_No_7" id="Stitches_for_Purses_No_7"></a>No. 7.</p>
+
+<p>Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted
+plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd
+row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is
+across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next
+stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain
+knitting. Begin again at the 1st row.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Bead_Netting" id="Bead_Netting"></a><i>Bead Netting.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to
+where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot
+and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and
+the next row will fix these in their places.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Bead_Netting_2" id="Bead_Netting_2"></a><i>Bead Netting</i>,</h3>
+
+<p class="material">With the bead on the knot.</p>
+
+<p>Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row;
+net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close
+to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up
+to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the
+bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to
+place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Dice_Knitting" id="Dice_Knitting"></a><i>Dice Knitting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">For a Purse.</p>
+
+<p>This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine
+needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until
+you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd
+row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass <i>that</i> silk round the
+silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk
+knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and
+bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in
+the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball
+of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with
+the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with
+the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st
+forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you
+have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread
+of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch
+with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color,
+knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and
+continue the same for the rest of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> the 8 stitches, when you will find 2
+threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring
+forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those
+of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then
+knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the
+color again.</p>
+
+<p>This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles
+and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on
+both sides it does not require lining.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Open_Fan_for_a_Quilt" id="Open_Fan_for_a_Quilt"></a><i>Open Fan for a Quilt.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5,
+decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left
+hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side are
+<i>always</i> knitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span>
+2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a
+stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border
+stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A
+plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease,
+purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row.
+Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the
+border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1,
+knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the
+slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1,
+knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these
+stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the
+rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The
+last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until
+14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still
+decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in
+the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last
+stitch.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Gauffre_Fans_for_a_Quilt" id="Gauffre_Fans_for_a_Quilt"></a><i>Gauffre Fans for a Quilt.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row is
+<i>slipped</i> throughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches,
+counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60,
+decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit
+58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the
+cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4,
+decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven
+times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,<a name="FNanchor_62-1_4" id="FNanchor_62-1_4" href="#Footnote_62-1_4" class="fnanchor">62-*</a>
+purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4,
+decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit
+1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &amp;c.
+ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1,
+slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &amp;c. decrease 1, and knit the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> 4 last stitches. A
+plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row.
+Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &amp;c. ending the row with
+knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2,
+purl 4, &amp;c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &amp;c. Knit 5,
+bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &amp;c. Knit 5, slip 2,
+decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &amp;c. decreasing 1 stitch in
+the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40,
+decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and
+so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2
+middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the
+last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is made
+<i>not</i> on that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every
+other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting,
+decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches,
+knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Ribbed_Squares" id="Ribbed_Squares"></a><i>Ribbed Squares.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">For a Quilt.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch
+at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th
+row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd,
+increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th
+row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row,
+knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3.
+Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1,
+increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2,
+purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit
+4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase
+1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1,
+purl 2, knit 2, &amp;c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit
+2, purl 2, &amp;c.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until
+there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay
+in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them
+together.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Open_work_Fan" id="Open_work_Fan"></a><i>Open work Fan.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">For a Quilt.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is
+always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward
+slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring
+the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over
+the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left
+hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66,
+knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
+slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted,
+repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle,
+decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit
+2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
+stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before,
+decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease
+1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
+over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton
+forward <i>before</i> slipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and
+knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows,
+decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that the <i>first</i>
+slipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole)
+until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as
+before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the
+cotton through the remaining stitch.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="An_open_Border" id="An_open_Border"></a><i>An open Border.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the
+1st stitch, bring<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch,
+pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches
+to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then
+begin with the first row again.</p>
+
+<p>A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Border" id="Another_Border"></a><i>Another Border.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on any even number of stitches. Rib <i>each</i> row with the exception
+of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When
+you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border
+stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2
+stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back
+and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row
+is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come
+to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be
+sure that your<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> pattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on
+the wrong side, and 4 on the right.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="A_Last_Border" id="A_Last_Border"></a><i>A Last Border.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">For a Quilt.</p>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second
+stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and
+3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which
+knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you
+were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the
+right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to
+be purled. Begin again at the 1st row.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Grecian_Border" id="Grecian_Border"></a><i>Grecian Border.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd
+row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row,
+the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row,
+purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows
+are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the <a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a>9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and
+23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and
+31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and
+39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl
+12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Diamond_Knitting" id="Diamond_Knitting"></a><i>Diamond Knitting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">For a Quilt Border.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always
+plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it,
+knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from
+the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row,
+knit the border stitches, and rib the rest; <i>every</i> back row is the
+same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1
+stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches,
+decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
+repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue
+increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3
+stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the
+diamond which you have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> made by increasing, and increase on each side
+before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern
+done to see how to proceed.</p>
+
+<p>Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you
+have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease
+the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your
+greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Border_for_a_Table_Cover" id="Border_for_a_Table_Cover"></a><i>Border for a Table Cover.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip
+a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a
+stitch, &amp;c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to
+knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to
+begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in
+length, then cast off.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This border in crimson cotton or German lambs’-wool, is a nice finish to
+a dark cloth cover.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Border_and_Fringe" id="Border_and_Fringe"></a><i>Border and Fringe.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd
+color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the
+1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2
+stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of
+the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the
+left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the
+same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only
+observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd.
+After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again.</p>
+
+<p>When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for
+the Fringe.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Scarf_for_the_Throat" id="Scarf_for_the_Throat"></a><i>Scarf for the Throat.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German Lambs’-wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 86 <a name="corr6" id="corr6"></a>stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86
+cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course
+of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing
+for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and
+also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence
+the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2
+stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same
+until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the
+border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round
+the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this
+to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6,
+rib 3, &amp;c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &amp;c. 5th
+row; knit 4,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &amp;c. 6th row; rib 4,
+increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &amp;c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3,
+&amp;c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &amp;c. 9th row; knit 8, knit
+2 together, rib 3, &amp;c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &amp;c.
+11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &amp;c. 12th row;
+rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &amp;c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together,
+knit 4, rib 3, &amp;c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &amp;c. 15th
+row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &amp;c. 16th row; rib 6,
+increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &amp;c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second
+pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough,
+then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to
+the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Scarf_Edge" id="Scarf_Edge"></a><i>Scarf Edge.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles and gold colored flox silk.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silk<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken
+together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
+taken together, knit 2 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Scarf" id="Scarf"></a><i>Scarf.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles No. 7.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a
+stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib
+1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same.</p>
+
+<p>This scarf takes about 2½ ounces of German lambs’-wool; it requires a
+wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends,
+which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the
+desired color, beginning with the darkest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Scarf" id="Netted_Scarf"></a><i>Netted Scarf.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">On a foundation of 54 stitches.</p>
+
+<p>Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet,
+amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue,
+amber, and scarlet.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Porcupine_Boa" id="Porcupine_Boa"></a><i>Porcupine Boa.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool
+forward, knit a stitch&mdash;this is the centre stitch of the pattern&mdash;bring
+the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2
+taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the
+4 stitches, &amp;c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch
+off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continue<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> this for
+6 rounds, increasing <i>before</i> and <i>after</i> every centre stitch, and
+knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the
+next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain
+rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2
+together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you
+decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this
+time.</p>
+
+<p>Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to
+count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you
+decrease.</p>
+
+<p>This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it
+with cotton wool and put strings to it.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Leggings" id="Leggings"></a><i>Leggings.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two ivory needles and rather fine lambs’-wool are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> inches, knitting and
+ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and
+increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60
+stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you
+increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to
+match the top. Sew them up.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Waistcoat" id="Waistcoat"></a><i>Waistcoat.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="titlepage">Large Size.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows,
+cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26
+stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14
+stitches, knit 38 rows.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage">The Sleeve.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves
+a narrow bit to tack<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> to the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open
+under the arm.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Knitted_Waistcoat" id="Knitted_Waistcoat"></a><i>Knitted Waistcoat.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows;
+cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows,
+cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows,
+cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage">Sleeves.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9
+rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for
+19.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Warm_Tippet" id="Warm_Tippet"></a><i>Warm Tippet.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles, No. 11.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2
+taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows,
+then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions
+of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and
+knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther
+each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer
+stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards
+receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have
+now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6
+stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick
+up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward,
+slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end
+of the row without any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> more increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches
+in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the
+increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1
+(instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows,
+and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the
+first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted
+10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the
+gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the
+end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches
+and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2
+stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset
+again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the
+gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of
+stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the
+thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip
+another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>
+together, bring the thread forward and go <a name="corr7" id="corr7"></a>on. In the next row, when you
+come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3
+stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the
+10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole
+rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the
+cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must
+increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Night_Cap" id="Night_Cap"></a><i>Night Cap.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each
+needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam
+in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other
+round, until you have a sufficient number of stitches<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> for the size of
+your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until
+your cap is ¾ of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning,
+decreasing where you before increased.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Night_Cap_2" id="Night_Cap_2"></a><i>Night Cap.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">French Pattern.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4,
+next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre
+stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam
+(leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle.
+When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round
+until the cap is ¾ of a yard long: make the end like the beginning.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Lambs-wool_Sleeve" id="Lambs-wool_Sleeve"></a><i>Lambs’-wool Sleeve.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the
+sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve
+is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser
+lambs’-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and
+finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Cephaline" id="Cephaline"></a><i>Cephaline.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms.</p>
+
+<p class="material2">A mesh ¾ of an inch wide and one ¼ that width are required. It
+may be netted in flox silk or fine lambs’-wool.</p>
+
+<p>Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are
+the middle rows).<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted
+with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine
+mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh
+2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60,
+and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a
+narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on
+the other side, beginning at the first narrow row.</p>
+
+<p>Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the
+Cephaline is made.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Diamond_Knitting_2" id="Diamond_Knitting_2"></a><i>Diamond Knitting.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the
+cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it,
+knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton
+forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain
+round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> a stitch, knit 1,
+pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11
+stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
+repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted
+one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat
+these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the
+cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2
+together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
+slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat
+these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another
+round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond,
+and decrease the other half diamond to a point.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Diamond_Knitting" id="Another_Diamond_Knitting"></a><i>Another Diamond Knitting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four needles are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the
+thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken
+together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward,
+knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
+the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this
+all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1
+and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain
+round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
+slipped stitch over it, knit 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> taken together, bring the thread forward
+knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together,
+bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1
+stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this
+all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3
+stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
+slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward
+and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see
+you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and
+you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle
+stitches of the larger diamond are <i>always</i> plain knitting, and the 1st
+decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Small_Feather_Pattern" id="Small_Feather_Pattern"></a><i>Small Feather Pattern.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty
+for a purse or mitten.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the
+thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch,
+thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice,
+knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice,
+increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds.
+Repeat these 4 rounds.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Double_Eyelet_Knitting" id="Double_Eyelet_Knitting"></a><i>Double Eyelet Knitting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four needles are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the
+thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together,
+knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> stitch, repeat these 7
+stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Gouty_Shoes" id="Gouty_Shoes"></a><i>Gouty Shoes.</i></h3>
+
+<p>For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1
+stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20
+stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12
+rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4
+times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row;
+twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch
+in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease
+3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row
+until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off.</p>
+
+<p>This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles
+No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> needles No. 8, and coarse
+lambs’-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25
+stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then
+2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit
+12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter.
+Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards,
+to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the
+sole on the wrong side.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="To_increase_and_decrease" id="To_increase_and_decrease"></a><i>To increase and decrease in Double Knitting.</i></h3>
+
+<p>In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3
+rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the
+1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd
+row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you
+come to the increase, knit 1<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> stitch, and pass the next upon another
+needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from
+the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that
+you cannot increase less than two stitches at once.</p>
+
+<p>Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit
+2 <i>knitting</i> stitches together passing the farther one over the
+intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches
+(instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2 <i>knitting</i> stitches will come together,
+knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at
+once.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Double_Knitted_Soles" id="Double_Knitted_Soles"></a><i>Double Knitted Soles.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">To wear in the shoes.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches
+in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24
+stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> stitches every 2 rows until you
+have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20
+stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12
+stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the
+remaining 4 stitches.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Lambs-wool_Boot" id="Lambs-wool_Boot"></a><i>Lambs’-wool Boot.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four ivory needles and coarse lambs’-wool are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2
+ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured
+lambs’-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease
+in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows;
+knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color,
+1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> the lambs’-wool through
+2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Lambs-wool_Cap" id="Babys_Lambs-wool_Cap"></a><i>Baby’s Lambs’-wool Cap.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in
+double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in
+depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3
+turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the
+crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of
+double knitting, and run a ribbon through it.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Hat" id="Babys_Hat"></a><i>Baby’s Hat.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Seven needles No. 16, are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round
+increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span>
+increasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase.
+Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1
+round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always
+increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round,
+until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds
+alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round
+increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit
+and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the
+1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13
+welts, and cast off.</p>
+
+<p>Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Stockings" id="Babys_Stockings"></a><i>Baby’s Stockings.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">With needles No. 15, and fine lambs’-wool.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3
+rows increasing at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> the end of each. After this increase, at the end of
+every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take
+off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning
+at the <i>sloping</i> side) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
+cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing.
+When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10
+stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches,
+increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but
+two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain
+rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches.
+Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit
+every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When
+knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie
+it round the ankle.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Gaiters" id="Babys_Gaiters"></a><i>Baby’s Gaiters.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the
+end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row.
+Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit
+18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a
+third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
+cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased
+to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches
+from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the
+side and knit the <i>legging</i> as in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind
+the foot with white ribbon.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Spencer" id="Babys_Spencer"></a><i>Baby’s Spencer.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Needles No. 14.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In
+the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>
+middle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches
+together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row
+afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the
+8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of
+the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14
+stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make
+the other to match it.</p>
+
+<p>The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th
+row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six
+times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of
+the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a
+stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are)
+until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need
+not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other
+end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing
+until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitches <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span>backwards and
+forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at
+the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down
+the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the
+buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make
+holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off.</p>
+
+<p>The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it
+wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches
+alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Stays" id="Babys_Stays"></a><i>Baby’s Stays.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambs’-wool. Needles No. 15.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 204 stitches. The 6 <i>first</i> and <i>last</i> stitches are knitted
+every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6.
+Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the
+last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> and,
+instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit
+and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row
+(consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row.
+Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast
+off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit
+the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1
+stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the
+rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the
+12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with
+the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and
+rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest.
+Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only
+are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and
+knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit
+and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and
+knit the rest. Rib and knit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> 12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches
+backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of
+the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on
+strings.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Babys_Sock" id="Babys_Sock"></a><i>Baby’s Sock.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14,
+and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambs’-wool are required.</p>
+
+<p>Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambs’-wool,
+knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and
+12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the
+piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles.
+Knit 6 <i>turns</i>, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have
+only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting
+1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel
+in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you
+have 60 stitches left. Decrease<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> 2 stitches in the middle, divide the
+stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two
+rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56
+round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit one <i>round</i> and
+cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe.</p>
+
+<p>For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14
+stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding).
+Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and
+the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side
+stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle
+every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2
+rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up
+a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34
+stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern
+as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit
+1 plain round adding a stitch after every third<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> stitch, making in all
+64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches
+alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in
+front of the shoe.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Curtain" id="Netted_Curtain"></a><i>Netted Curtain.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">For a French Bed.</p>
+
+<p>With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the
+curtain.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Moorish_Brioche" id="Moorish_Brioche"></a><i>Moorish Brioche or Cushion.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that
+contrast well. Two needles, No. 12.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by
+this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a
+stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the end<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> of the row. 2nd row:
+bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with
+the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop
+and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6
+more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten
+on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring
+the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the
+row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the
+wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you
+slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit
+8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these
+divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net
+a fringe with double coarse lambs’-wool to the narrow part, and run in a
+string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round
+cushion, and cover it with the knitting.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="A_Blanket" id="A_Blanket"></a><i>A Blanket.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with
+the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it,
+knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you
+will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only
+difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it
+together.</p>
+
+<p>These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Blanket_in_strips" id="Blanket_in_strips"></a><i>Blanket in strips.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows common<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> knitting; then begin double
+knitting,<a name="FNanchor_106-1_5" id="FNanchor_106-1_5" href="#Footnote_106-1_5" class="fnanchor">106-*</a> knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border,
+knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again;
+continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty
+if the squares are done in different colors.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Netted_Lace" id="Netted_Lace"></a><i>Netted Lace.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the
+number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for.
+216 will make about a yard.</p>
+
+<p>Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh ¼ of an inch wide, or a trifle wider,
+net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the
+next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the
+row. Take the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> small mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a
+single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Puff_Netting" id="Puff_Netting"></a><i>Puff Netting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Very pretty for caps.</p>
+
+<p>Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9
+stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net
+3 rows, 1 stitch in <i>every</i> stitch. In the next row (which will make the
+5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the
+following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="A_Cool_Night-cap" id="A_Cool_Night-cap"></a><i>A Cool Night-cap.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Puff netting.</p>
+
+<p class="material">The mesh to be ¼ inch wide.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the
+4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this
+all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch in <i>every</i> stitch. In the
+next round take the 5 plain stitches as <i>one</i>, net 5 stitches, repeat
+all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after
+the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the
+cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and
+tie the top string tight.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Suspenders" id="Suspenders"></a><i>Suspenders.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles No. 16.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the
+thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on
+another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is
+long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> up the
+other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the
+thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double
+knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the
+needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2,
+which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch
+first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th
+and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch.
+Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were
+going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right
+hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled.
+Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double
+knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish
+in a point.</p>
+
+<p>These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the
+first series.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Parisian_Net_Knitting" id="Parisian_Net_Knitting"></a><i>Parisian Net Knitting.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">This pattern is very pretty for a foot-muff, blanket, or sofa
+<a name="corr8" id="corr8"></a>guard.</p>
+
+<p class="material2">Take German lambs’-wool of two colors that contrast well; pink and
+white form a pretty mixture.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on an even number of stitches, and with the white wool knit several
+rows before beginning the pattern. 1st row; fasten on the pink wool
+forward, knit the first stitch with the white wool, pass the pink round
+the needle bringing it forward again, and purl the next stitch with it;
+pass the purled stitch on to the left-hand needle and knit it with the
+white wool, knit 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round the
+needle, purl 1 stitch and pass it back on to the left-hand needle, knit
+it and the following stitch with the white wool; continue the same to
+the end of the row. 2nd row; purl the white stitches with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> white
+wool, and slip the pink loops, taking care not to twist them or change
+the side which is forward. 3rd row; knit the white stitches with the
+white wool and slip the pink loops. 4th row; purl the 1st stitch with
+the white wool, turn the pink wool (which is now behind) round the
+needle, and with it knit the pink loop and following white stitch taken
+together, slip the stitch on to the left hand needle and purl it with
+the white wool, purl 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round
+the needle, and knit with it the pink loop and following stitch taken
+together, slip it on to the other needle and purl it with the white
+wool, repeat the same to the end. 5th row; knit all the white stitches
+with the white wool and slip the pink loops. 6th row; purl the white
+stitches with the white wool and slip the pink. 7th row; knit 1 stitch
+with the white wool, pass the pink wool (which is forward) round the
+needle and with it purl the pink loop and following white stitch taken
+together, observing to take the pink loop by the under side, slip the
+stitch on to the left hand needle and knit<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> it and the following white
+stitch with the white wool; repeat the same to the end of the row: as
+the 7th row takes the place of the 1st, continue with the 2nd row.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Diamond_Knitting_3" id="Diamond_Knitting_3"></a><i>Diamond Knitting.</i></h3>
+
+<p>Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. 1st round: knit 12 stitches, knit
+2 taken together, and bring the cotton forward; repeat the same. 2nd
+round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 9, knit 2 taken together and
+bring the cotton forward, knit 1 and bring the cotton forward again. 3rd
+round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the cotton forward, knit 3, and bring the cotton forward again.
+4th round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 5, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, and bring the cotton forward
+again. 5th round: knit 2 taken together, knit 3, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the cotton forward, knit 7, bring the cotton forward. 6th round:
+knit 2<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> stitches taken together, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring
+the cotton forward, knit 9, bring the cotton forward. 7th round: knit 3
+taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, bring the cotton
+forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 4, bring the cotton forward. Begin
+again.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Four_Patterns" id="Four_Patterns"></a><i>Four Patterns, for D’Oyleys, Toilet Covers, Baby’s Quilts, or Basket
+Napkins.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Two needles, No. 22 or 23, and very fine knitting cotton.</p>
+
+
+<h4 class="subpattern"><a name="DOyley_No_1" id="DOyley_No_1"></a>No. 1.</h4>
+
+<p>Cast on a number of stitches that will divide into an even number of
+threes. <i>Knit and rib</i> 3 stitches alternately for 3 rounds. In the next
+3 rounds, <i>rib and knit</i> 3 stitches alternately.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h4 class="subpattern"><a name="DOyley_No_2" id="DOyley_No_2"></a>No. 2.</h4>
+
+<p>Cast on a number of stitches as for the last pattern. Knit and rib 3
+stitches alternately for 2 rows. The following rows begin so as to bring
+the first ribbed stitch over the last knitted: this is to make the
+ribbed and knitted ridges go in diagonal stripes.</p>
+
+
+<h4 class="subpattern"><a name="DOyley_No_3" id="DOyley_No_3"></a>No. 3.</h4>
+
+<p>Cast on a number of stitches that will divide by 10. Knit 1 stitch, rib
+9, repeat the same to the end of the row. 2nd row: rib 1 stitch, knit 7,
+rib 2. 3rd row: knit 3, rib 5, knit 2. 4th row: rib 3, knit 3, rib 4.
+5th row: knit 5, rib 1, knit 4. 6th row: knit 4, rib 1, knit 5. 7th row:
+rib 4, knit 3, rib 3. 8th row: knit 2, rib 5, knit 3. 9th row: rib 2,
+knit 7, rib 1. 10th row: rib 9, knit 1. Begin again.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h4 class="subpattern"><a name="DOyley_No_4" id="DOyley_No_4"></a>No. 4.</h4>
+
+<p>Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row: knit every stitch with the
+cotton twice round the needle. 2nd row: begin by dropping one twist of
+the 1st stitch, knit the rest of this stitch with the 1st twist of the
+next, taking them together; finish the row, knitting 2 threads taken
+together, knit the last stitch. Begin again.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Mazaniello_Cap" id="Mazaniello_Cap"></a><i>Mazaniello Cap.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Four Needles,<br />
+And Wool of two colors which contrast well.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row is purled. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch and
+knit the row taking two stitches together to the last stitch which knit.
+3rd row; slip the 1st stitch, purl the next, raise a loop between this
+stitch and the next and purl it, repeat these 2 stitches to the end. 4th
+row; knit plain. These 4 rows form one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> stripe of diamonds. Take the
+second colored wool and purl 1 row, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows.
+Repeat these 8 rows until you have 15 stripes of diamonds in each
+colour: Cast off.</p>
+
+<p>Pick up 60 stitches on the side of the piece you have been knitting; (i.
+e. 2 in each stripe of diamonds). Take first the 2nd color and
+afterwards the 1st, and repeat the 4 rows as given above, until you have
+7 stripes of one color and 6 of the other. Cast off loosely. This piece,
+when the cap is finished is <i>wrong side</i> outwards as it is to be turned
+up all round.</p>
+
+<p>To finish the crown, pick up 60 stitches on 3 needles and with the 2nd
+color repeat the pattern, observing that its right side must be the
+right side of the cap, (consequently the wrong side of the piece at the
+bottom). In the 4th round reduce 1 stitch in every 4. Repeat the pattern
+with the 1st colors. In the 4th round, knit 2, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat to the end of the round. In the 4th round of the 3rd round of
+diamonds reduce every other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> stitch. In the 4th round of the 4th round
+of diamonds, thread a worsted needle with the wool and pass it through
+all the stitches, draw them up tight and fasten off.</p>
+
+<p>The cap may be finished with a cord and tassel to match in colors, or
+with a tassel only.</p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Muff_in_Spots" id="Muff_in_Spots"></a><i>Muff, in Spots or Stars.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material2">Two wooden needles, No. 10, and for a small muff 1 ounce of blue
+and 1 ounce of black fleecy. Double that quantity for a large size.</p>
+
+<p>For a small muff cast on 60 stitches, for a large one 84. The number
+must divide into 3 equal numbers. Cast on the stitches with the black
+wool, purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, (every 2nd row with the black wool must begin like this)
+bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches pull the first over the 2 last,
+repeat these 3 stitches to the end, when you will find you have one
+stitch left, bring the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> wool forward and knit it. Join on the blue wool
+and purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken together,
+knit 2 stitches and pull the stitch in which you decreased over them,
+(every 2nd blue row begins thus) bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches
+pull the 1st over the 2 last, repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the
+row. Use the black wool and repeat the whole. For a small muff do 21
+stripes of each color, for a large one 42. Cast off.</p>
+
+<p>To make up a small muff you must buy 5-8ths of gros-de-naples, 1½ oz.
+of fine carded wool and 1 oz. of fine horse-hair. Double the silk in
+halves and place on it 1 layer of wool. 1 layer of horse-hair and a
+second layer of wool. Quilt these to one-half of the silk and fold the
+other half over, and sew it to the knitted cover; turn the muff inside
+out and sew up first the knitted part and then the silk. Finish the muff
+at the edges by a cord or a quilling of ribbon.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h3 class="pattern"><a name="Another_Muff" id="Another_Muff"></a><i>Another Muff.</i></h3>
+
+<p class="material">Two needles No. 10 and 3 skeins of coarse fleecy.</p>
+
+<p>Cast on sixty stitches. Knit 1 row; rib 1 row; knit 1 row taking 2
+stitches together all the way. 4th row; knit 1 stitch, pick up and knit
+a loop between the stitches, continue the same to the end of the row. As
+by this you would lose 1 stitch, this must be prevented by picking up
+and knitting a loop alternately, before beginning or at the end of every
+4th row.</p>
+
+<p>Make up the muff like the preceding pattern.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="TERMS_USED_IN_KNITTING" id="TERMS_USED_IN_KNITTING"></a>TERMS USED IN KNITTING.</h2>
+
+
+<div class="hanging">
+<p><i>A turn</i> means two rows.</p>
+
+<p><i>To turn</i> means to change from plain to purled stitches, or the
+reverse.</p>
+
+<p><i>A ridge</i> is formed by two rows when knitting with only two pins.</p>
+
+<p><i>A loop stitch</i> is formed by passing the thread before the needle,
+and, in <i>knitting</i> the next stitch, letting it take its usual place.</p>
+
+<p><i>To increase in knitting a Quilt</i>, care should always be taken to
+increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by
+knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting
+a second at the back.</p>
+
+<p><i>To fasten on in knitting.</i> It is a secure fastening to lay the two
+ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them
+both.</p>
+
+<p><i>To narrow</i> or <i>decrease</i> is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a
+stocking.</p>
+
+<p><i>Ribbed stitch</i>, <i>purl stitch</i>, <i>turned</i>, or <i>seam stitch</i>, are all
+terms having the same meaning. A<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> turned stitch is made by bringing
+the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over
+the upper cotton, it is put under.</p>
+
+<p><i>To slip</i>, <i>take off</i>, or <i>pass a stitch</i>, is to change it from one
+needle to another without knitting it.</p>
+
+<p><i>To take under</i>, means to pass the right hand needle through the
+stitch on the left hand one, so as still to keep the same side of
+the stitch towards you.</p>
+
+<p><i>Welts</i> are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of
+stockings, to prevent their rolling up.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cast off</i> means to end your work in the following manner: knit 2
+stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same
+until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your
+cotton through it.</p>
+
+<p><i>To decrease</i> is to lessen the number of stitches by knitting 2 taken
+together.</p>
+
+<p><i>To increase</i>, or <i>make a double stitch</i>, is to knit one stitch in the
+usual way, then, without slipping out the left hand needle, to pass
+the thread forward and knit a second stitch,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> putting the needle
+under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is
+finished.</p>
+
+<p><i>Hang on</i>, means cast on.</p>
+
+<p><i>Bring the thread forward</i>, means to pass it between the needles
+towards you.</p>
+
+<p><i>Cast over</i> is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters, to
+signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express,
+bring the cotton over the needle, quite round.</p>
+
+<p><i>Round the needle</i>, means the same as the last term.</p>
+
+<p><i>Reversed</i>, means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed
+<i>over</i> the needle, and then carried back to its place.</p>
+
+<p><i>Together</i>, means knit 2 stitches in 1.</p>
+
+<p><i>Set</i>, or <i>Tuft</i>, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the
+Fringes.</p>
+
+<p><i>To widen</i> means to increase.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle <a name="corr9" id="corr9"></a>gauge, as I am
+not aware there is any other rule for them.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<p><a name="Footnote_2-1_1" id="Footnote_2-1_1" href="#FNanchor_2-1_1" class="label">2-*</a> If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the
+glove, or a pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or
+more stitches.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_8-1_2" id="Footnote_8-1_2" href="#FNanchor_8-1_2" class="label">8-*</a> These stitches may be decreased again or not.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_24-1_3" id="Footnote_24-1_3" href="#FNanchor_24-1_3" class="label">24-*</a> Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip
+a stitch, pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat
+these 2 stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_62-1_4" id="Footnote_62-1_4" href="#FNanchor_62-1_4" class="label">62-*</a> In rows like this always keep the cotton before in
+slipping a stitch.</p>
+
+<p><a name="Footnote_106-1_5" id="Footnote_106-1_5" href="#FNanchor_106-1_5" class="label">106-*</a> See Contents&mdash;Double Knitting. For a blanket it is
+better to put the wool twice round the needle in the knitted stitches.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+<p class="titlepage"><b>PUBLIC</b><br />
+<span class="size120">SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY,</span><br />
+BELGRAVE SQUARE.</p>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="titlepage">To this Library every New Work of Interest is<br />
+added on the day of Publication.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage">TERMS:</p>
+
+<table summary="terms">
+<tr>
+  <td>Twelve months</td>
+  <td class="tdr">£5&nbsp;&nbsp; 5 0</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Six months</td>
+  <td class="tdr">3&nbsp;&nbsp; 3 0</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td>Three months</td>
+  <td class="tdr">1 16 0</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="titlepage">CARD PLATES ENGRAVED &amp; PRINTED.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage">STATIONERY, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p class="titlepage"><b>Agent for the Early Supply of Newspapers.</b></p>
+
+<hr class="declong" />
+
+<p class="right"><span class="padr2">JOHN MILAND,</span><br />
+<i>Chapel Street, Belgrave Square.</i></p>
+
+
+<hr class="chapbreak" />
+
+<div class="tn">
+<p class="titlepage"><a name="trans_note" id="trans_note"></a><b>Transcriber’s&nbsp;Note</b></p>
+
+<p class="noindent">The following errors have been maintained.</p>
+
+<table class="tntable" summary="typos">
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">Page</td>
+  <td>Error</td>
+  <td>Correction</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr1">ii</a></td>
+  <td>Chequed</td>
+  <td>Chequered</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr2">7</a></td>
+  <td>long enough.</td>
+  <td>long enough,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr3">12</a></td>
+  <td>mesh, In</td>
+  <td>mesh. In</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr4">50</a></td>
+  <td>next round. by</td>
+  <td>next round by</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr5">69</a></td>
+  <td>the 9th,</td>
+  <td>the 9th.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr6">73</a></td>
+  <td>86 stiches;</td>
+  <td>86 stitches</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr7">82</a></td>
+  <td>and go on,</td>
+  <td>and go on.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr8">110</a></td>
+  <td>sofa guard.</td>
+  <td>sofa guard,</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr"><a href="#corr9">122</a></td>
+  <td>needle guage</td>
+  <td>needle gauge</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p class="noindent">The following words were inconsistently spelled:</p>
+
+<ul class="ix">
+  <li>D’Oyleys / Doyleys</li>
+  <li>Honey-comb / Honeycomb</li>
+</ul>
+
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by 
+Miss Watts
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diff --git a/33951.txt b/33951.txt
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+Project Gutenberg's The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by Miss Watts
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book
+
+Author: Miss Watts
+
+Release Date: October 2, 2010 [EBook #33951]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' KNITTING AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+TranscriberaEuro(TM)s Note
+
+Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections
+is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and
+hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled
+and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text.
+
+
+
+
+  THE LADIESaEuro(TM)
+  KNITTING AND NETTING
+  BOOK.
+
+  SECOND SERIES.
+
+
+
+
+  THE LADIESaEuro(TM) KNITTING
+  AND NETTING
+  BOOK.
+
+
+  BY MISS WATTS.
+
+
+  SECOND SERIES.
+
+
+  Second Edition.
+
+  ENTERED AT STATIONERSaEuro(TM) HALL.
+
+
+  LONDON:
+  JOHN MILAND, 35, CHAPEL STREET,
+  BELGRAVE SQUARE.
+
+  1840.
+
+
+
+
+  Lessons given in knitting and netting.
+  For terms and address, apply to the Publisher.
+
+
+  W. DAVY, PRINTER, GILBERT STREET, OXFORD STREET.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                              PAGE
+
+  GentlemenaEuro(TM)s Knitted Gloves                     1
+  Netted ditto                                   3
+  Feather ditto                                  5
+  Plain open Mittens                             8
+  Another Plain ditto                           10
+  Annet ditto                                   11
+  Honeycomb ditto                               13
+  Matrimony ditto                               15
+  LambsaEuro(TM)-wool ditto                            ib.
+  Round Netted ditto                            17
+  Mitten, with a leaf wreath round the top      18
+  Feather Mits                                  20
+  Cuffs, Peacock Stitch                         21
+  Netted Cuffs                                  22
+  Warm ditto                                    23
+  Muffatees                                     24
+  Ditto                                        ib.
+  GentlemenaEuro(TM)s ditto                             25
+  Cushion Cover                                 26
+  Sofa Pillow ditto                             27
+  Striped Cushion ditto                        ib.
+  Knitted Mat, with Fringe                      28
+  Netted Mat                                    30
+  Vase ditto                                   ib.
+  Table mats                                    31
+  Table ditto, in one piece                     32
+  Napkin Ring                                   33
+  A Pence Purse, or Jug                        ib.
+  Bouquetier. No. 1.                            35
+    Ditto     No. 2.                            36
+  Tidy Basket                                   37
+  Ladder Stitch Bag                             38
+  Crossed Stitch ditto                          39
+  Netted ditto                                  40
+  Fringe                                       ib.
+  Netted ditto                                  41
+  Scarf ditto                                  ib.
+  Fringe                                        42
+  Rug ditto                                    ib.
+  Carriage Rug                                  43
+  Striped Purse                                 44
+  Chequered ditto                               45
+  Purse in Round Netting                       ib.
+  Matrimony--For a Purse                        46
+  Another                                      ib.
+  Annet Purse                                   47
+  Honeycomb Purse                               48
+  Another Honeycomb                            ib.
+  Netted Purse                                  49
+  Single Diamond Netting                       ib.
+  Treble ditto                                  50
+  Knitted Purse                                 52
+  Stitches for Purses. No. 1.                   53
+        Ditto.         No. 2.                  ib.
+        Ditto.         No. 3.                   54
+        Ditto.         No. 4.                  ib.
+        Ditto.         No. 5.                   55
+  Stitches for Purses. No. 6                    56
+        Ditto          No. 7                    57
+  Bead Netting                                 ib.
+    Ditto                                       58
+  Dice Knitting                                ib.
+  Open Fan, for a Quilt                         60
+  Gauffre Fans, for ditto                       62
+  Ribbed Squares, for ditto                     64
+  Open work Fan, for ditto                      65
+  An Open Border                                66
+  Another Border                                67
+  A Last Border, for a Quilt                    68
+  Grecian Border                                69
+  Diamond Knitting                              70
+  Border for a Table Cover                      71
+  Border and Fringe                             72
+  Scarf for the Throat                          73
+  Scarf Edge                                    74
+  Scarf                                         75
+  Netted ditto                                  76
+  Porcupine Boa                                ib.
+  Leggings                                      77
+  Waistcoat                                     78
+  Knitted ditto                                 79
+  Warm Tippet                                   80
+  Night Cap                                     82
+    Ditto                                       83
+  LambsaEuro(TM)-wool sleeve                            84
+  Cephaline                                    ib.
+  Diamond Knitting                              85
+  Another ditto                                 87
+  Small Feather Pattern                         89
+  Double Eyelet Knitting                       ib.
+  Gouty Shoes                                   90
+  To Increase and Decrease in Double Knitting   91
+  Double Knitted Soles                          92
+  LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Boot                              93
+  BabyaEuro(TM)s LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Cap                        94
+    Ditto Hat                                  ib.
+    Ditto Stockings                             95
+    Ditto Gaiters                               97
+    Ditto Spencer                              ib.
+    Ditto Stays                                 99
+    Ditto Socks                                101
+  Netted Curtain                               103
+  Brioche                                      ib.
+  A Blanket                                    105
+  Blanket in strips                            ib.
+  Netted Lace                                  106
+  Puff Netting                                 107
+  A Cool Night-cap                             ib.
+  Suspenders                                   108
+  Parisian Net Knitting                        110
+  Diamond Knitting                             112
+  Four Patterns for Doyleys, &c.               113
+  Mazaniello Cap                               115
+  Muff                                         117
+  Ditto                                        119
+  Terms used in Knitting                       120
+
+
+
+
+THE LADIESaEuro(TM) KNITTING AND NETTING BOOK.
+
+SECOND SERIES.
+
+
+_GentlemenaEuro(TM)s Knitted Gloves._
+
+     Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool.
+
+Cast on 88 stitches, 28 on each of 2 needles, and 32 on the 3rd, knit
+round, knitting and ribbing 4 stitches alternately; when you have done
+about one inch, continue with plain knitting[2-*] until your glove is
+long enough to begin increasing for the thumb, which is done by knitting
+twice in one stitch (that is, when you have knitted the stitch, knit it
+again at the back before you slip it off the needle,) in the middle of a
+needle. Knit a plain round; then increase twice in every other round
+before and after the last increase; continue this until you have
+stitches enough for the thumb (about 29); take all the stitches except
+those for the thumb, on two _other_ needles; divide the stitches for the
+thumb on 3 of your 4 needles and knit round, decreasing gradually at the
+join towards the end; take the remaining stitches, about 9, on a worsted
+needle and sew it up. Divide the stitches for the hand again on your
+needles, taking up 5 stitches at the bottom of the thumb for the gusset;
+knit two rounds; in the next three rounds decrease 3 stitches of the
+gusset: knit plain until the glove is long enough to begin the fingers;
+begin with the first finger, which will require 27 stitches, decrease as
+you may think fit at the end of the finger. This will leave 25, 23, and
+21 stitches for the 3 succeeding fingers. When you have finished the
+first finger, you must take up 4 stitches at the bottom for a gusset,
+these may be decreased or not according to the size required.
+
+     [2-*] If you wish to make a seam on the outside of the glove, or a
+     pattern down the back, it may be done by purling one or more
+     stitches.
+
+
+_Netted Gloves._
+
+     The mesh to net these gloves should be No. 14, and the netting silk
+     fine.
+
+Begin on a round foundation of 50 stitches; net 6 rounds, net 1 round,
+putting the silk twice round the mesh, this is to make a place to run
+the ribbon in; net 6 rounds, then begin to increase for the thumb by
+netting twice in one stitch, net one stitch, net twice in the next
+stitch: continue to increase in the same manner every other round,
+before and after where you increased last, until you have 19 (or 21 for
+rather a large size) stitches for the thumb; net one round, then net the
+stitches for the thumb _round_, when you have done 1 round decrease once
+in every round at the join for 4 or 5 rounds; net until the thumb is
+long enough and in the last round take 2 stitches in 1 and sew up the
+end: (the fingers are finished in the same way.) Fasten on your silk at
+the bottom of the thumb, and net 4 extra stitches for a gusset; net 5
+rounds, in the 6th decrease 2 stitches of the 4; net 10 or 12 rounds
+according to the size required. Now begin the first finger, for which 16
+stitches are required, net round and finish like the thumb; the other
+fingers are done in the same way, except that you must make a gusset of
+two stitches, which are not to be decreased, at the bottom of the
+_finished_ finger, this allows 15 stitches, including the two of the
+gusset, for the second finger, 14 for the third, and 12 for the fourth.
+Run a pattern on the back with flox silk.
+
+
+_Feather Gloves._
+
+     Four needles No. 19, and very fine cotton are required.
+
+Cast 64 stitches on 1 needle, and 38 on each of the other two: knit
+round, knitting and ribbing 5 stitches alternately until you have half
+an inch. Then knit a round, putting the cotton _round the needle_, and
+knitting 2 stitches taken together, this is to make a runner for the
+ribbon. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit the stitches of the first needle plain
+and begin the feather pattern for the back with the second needle, bring
+the cotton forward knit a stitch, repeat this twice, decrease by
+knitting 2 stitches taken together 3 times, knit 1 stitch, which is the
+centre stitch of the pattern, decrease 3 times, increase 3 times, and
+repeat these 19 stitches until you come to the needle with 64 stitches,
+which is always plain knitting. Knit 3 rounds. Repeat these 4 rounds
+until the glove is long enough to begin to increase for the thumb:
+after the 3 plain rounds, knit 1 stitch, increase 1 by taking up a
+stitch between 2 stitches, knit 1, increase 1: continue to increase in
+the same manner before and after the last increase, every other round,
+continuing the pattern on the 2 needles as before. When you have 9
+stitches for the thumb, and have knitted the round without increasing,
+knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch, knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit a stitch (this is to be the centre stitch of the
+thumb), knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit a stitch,
+knit 1 stitch, increase as before.
+
+When you have knitted the 3 rounds, increasing as usual, on the 1st
+needle, knit 1 stitch, increase 1, bring the cotton forward, knit a
+stitch, repeat this, decrease twice, knit the centre stitch, decrease
+twice, increase twice, increase the stitch for the thumb. In the next
+round of the holes of the _pattern_ you will have 17 stitches for the
+thumb: increase as usual, knit 2 stitches, increase twice, decrease
+twice; knit the centre stitch, decrease twice, increase twice, knit 2,
+increase 1. In future you will have stitches enough to make the pattern
+down the thumb like the pattern at the back, which is to be done with
+the 19 middle stitches of the thumb, the rest on either side are to be
+knitted plain: when you have increased 45 stitches and knitted 1 round,
+take all the other stitches on 2 _other_ needles, and knit the thumb
+round, gradually decreasing a few stitches at the join. When the thumb
+is finished take the stitches for the hand on your needles as before,
+take up 5 stitches for the gusset at the bottom of the thumb, and
+continue knitting as before, (on the third needle you will have an odd
+stitch, which belongs to the 1st needle, it will prevent any mistake if
+you pass it on to the 1st needle); after doing a few rounds, decrease
+the gusset stitches until you have 64 stitches on the 1st needle:
+continue the pattern as before, and when the glove is long enough, begin
+the 1st finger with the first plain 20 stitches and the opposite 19;
+knit round, continuing the pattern down the outside of the finger: when
+you have done this finger, take up 4 stitches for the gusset at the
+bottom of the 1st finger,[8-*] 16 plain stitches, and 19 of the pattern.
+The other 2 fingers are done in the same manner: 14 plain stitches, 19
+of the pattern, for the third finger, and 12 plain stitches and 19 of
+the pattern for the 4th finger, these numbers do not include the gusset
+stitches.
+
+When finished, sew a piece of lace round the top, and run a narrow
+ribbon in the holes.
+
+     [8-*] These stitches may be decreased again or not.
+
+
+_Plain open Mittens._
+
+     Begin on a round foundation of 30 or 34 stitches, with a mesh No.
+     14, and moderately fine silk.
+
+Net 6 rounds, net 1 round with the silk twice round the mesh, (for the
+ribbon to run in,) and 6 rounds with it once round the mesh; in the next
+round, net 14 stitches, increase 1 stitch in both the following
+stitches, complete the round, and net 2 rounds without increase.
+Increase again in the next round before and after the stitches in which
+you increased before; net 2 rounds. Continue to increase 2 stitches
+every 3rd round until you have increased 7 times on each side, (to make
+the thumb fit nicely, the increase stitches should be made _over_ each
+other for the last 3 times.) Net 1 round and the 14 thumb stitches. Net
+the thumb round for a round or two, and decrease by netting 2 together,
+if necessary, until the thumb fits tight; when it is nearly long enough
+net 1 round, 2 stitches in every stitch twice round the mesh; 1 round,
+taking the 2 stitches together, on a finer mesh, and 2 rounds on the
+fine mesh to finish. Cut off the silk, and fasten it on at one side of
+the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side and continue to net until the
+mitten is long enough. Finish the hand in the same way in which the
+thumb was finished. If it be thought an improvement, the 4 last rows can
+be repeated at the wrist, or a lace sewn on to finish it.
+
+
+_Another plain Mitten._
+
+     On a smaller mesh than the preceding.
+
+Begin with a foundation of 39 stitches, net 3 _rows_ with the silk once
+round the mesh, 1 row with it twice round the mesh, and 3 more rows with
+it once. Now begin to net _rounds_ instead of _rows_, by netting the
+last stitch of the row to the first. Net 9 rounds. Net 6 stitches,
+increase 1 in the 7th, finish the round. In the next round increase a
+stitch on each side of the stitch added last round, finish the round and
+net another round without increase. Increase _outside_ the last
+additional stitches every other round until you have 7 additional
+stitches. Net a plain round. Next round, increase _within_ the
+additional stitches; a plain round. Increase a second time _within_ the
+last increase; net 3 plain rounds; continue to net until you come to the
+stitch _over_ the last added stitch, net this to the corresponding
+stitch on the other side of the thumb, net round the thumb (decreasing
+to make it fit properly) until it is nearly long enough: finish it by
+netting 1 round with double silk _twice_, and 3 rounds with single silk
+_once_, round the mesh. To finish the hand, fasten on the silk at the
+side of the thumb, make 2 additional stitches on each side, (if after 2
+rows you decrease these 4 stitches to 2 the thumb will set better), and
+net until the mitten is nearly long enough, then repeat twice the 4
+rounds with which the thumb is finished; the last round should be done
+on rather a finer mesh.
+
+
+_Annet Mittens._
+
+Begin with 60 stitches. Net 4 _rows_; then net 1 row with the silk twice
+round the mesh, 2 rows with it once round the mesh, and begin to net
+_rounds_ instead of _rows_. In the 1st round, every stitch has the silk
+passed twice round the mesh. 2nd round, pull the 1st stitch through the
+2nd (from the back), net it, pull the 2nd stitch through the middle of
+the 1st, net it (taking care not to twist it), pull the 3rd through the
+4th, net it, pull the 4th through the middle of the 3rd, net it, repeat
+these stitches until the round is completed. Net 1 round passing the
+silk twice round the mesh. In the next round, which is like the second,
+care must be taken that the thick part comes over the open part in the
+last pattern. In the round which follows, net 11 stitches twice round
+the mesh, increase 2 stitches in the 12th, net 5, and increase 2
+stitches in the 6th. (All the stitches in this round have the silk
+passed twice round the mesh.) The next round is like the 2nd. Net 1
+round twice round the mesh; then 1 like the 2nd. Repeat both these
+rounds. Net a round passing the silk twice round the mesh, increasing 2
+stitches on each side; these additional stitches should be 4 further
+back than the last were, so as to leave a row of open stitches slanting
+from the 1st to the 2nd. Net 4 rounds as before. Increase again. Net 4
+rounds more, and increase 2 stitches on each side _over_ the last
+additional stitches. Net 3 rounds, and proceed to make the thumb as
+directed in the last pattern. When the thumb is nearly long enough, net
+1 round twice round the mesh, 2 stitches in each stitch. In the next
+round net the 2 stitches as 1, and finish with 5 plain rounds, for the
+last of which use a very small mesh. To complete the hand fasten on the
+silk at the side of the thumb, make 2 stitches on each side, net the
+alternate rounds, and finish the hand like the thumb.
+
+
+_Honey-comb Mittens._
+
+     Mesh No. 17, foundation 46 or 48 stitches.
+
+Net 3 _rows_. Net 1 row, putting the silk twice round the mesh; 2 rows
+once round the mesh; then begin netting in _rounds_. 1st round, for
+every stitch put the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd round, (each stitch
+once round the mesh,) net the 2nd stitch first half turning it; then net
+the 1st stitch plain. Net the 4th stitch half turning it, then net the
+3rd plain, and finish the round in the same manner. Every alternate
+repetition of the pattern you must plain net 1 stitch before beginning
+the pattern, so as to bring the thick stitch over the open one. Net a
+plain round, and begin again with the 1st. The same pattern is continued
+throughout the mitten, but for brevity the number of rounds only is
+given. When 6 rounds are done, net 10 stitches increase 2 in the 11th,
+net 3, and increase 2 more in the 4th. Net 2 rounds, and increase again
+2 stitches in the stitch which would have been over the 1st stitch in
+which you increased, (had you not increased,) net 7 and increase 2 more.
+Net 2 rounds, and in the next round increase again 2 stitches on each
+side of the thumb. Net 2 rounds, and increase a 4th time; net 2 rounds,
+and then net the first and last stitches of the thumb together. Decrease
+if necessary, and when the thumb is nearly long enough, finish with
+double silk, 1 round twice round the mesh, 1 round once round, 1 round
+twice round, and 2 once round the mesh. Fasten on the silk at the bottom
+of the thumb, add 1 stitch on each side, and net the alternate rounds
+of the pattern until the mitten is long enough to be finished like the
+thumb.
+
+
+_Matrimony Mittens._
+
+The increase and diminution are precisely the same as in the last
+mitten; the increase stitches are made in the plain knitted rounds. As
+this stitch is given for a purse, it is not necessary to repeat it. The
+mitten must be netted on a foundation of 48 or 50 stitches.
+
+     _Note._--It will be observed that the last patterns for mittens,
+     begin with _rows_ instead of _rounds_, this is to prevent the
+     necessity of untieing the ribbon every time the mitten is taken
+     off: a button is fastened to one side of the opening and a loop is
+     made on the other.
+
+
+_LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Mittens._
+
+     This mitten is made open, and when finished is sewn up.
+
+     Begin on a foundation of 53 stitches, and with a mesh a quarter of
+     an inch wide.
+
+Net 4 rows. Net 1 row with silk, on a mesh half the size of the 1st. Net
+2 rows with lambsaEuro(TM)-wool on the 1st mesh. 1 row with silk on the 2nd.
+Repeat these rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and silk 4 times: then in the middle of
+the row, net 13 stitches of wool on the large mesh, and net the same
+back again. Net 1 row of silk, 2 of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, 1 of silk, these
+stitches form the thumb. Begin again on the hand part of the mitten: net
+2 rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool (leaving out the 13 thumb stitches), 1 row of
+silk, 2 rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, 1 of silk, 2 of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, and 1 of silk.
+All the rows of lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are netted on the large mesh; all those of
+silk on the small mesh. Sew up the thumb and hand, and run a ribbon in
+at the top of the first row of silk.
+
+This mitten may be made of one, two, or three colours.
+
+
+_Mitten in Round Netting._
+
+     Begin on a round foundation of 44 stitches, with a mesh No. 14.
+
+Pass the needle under the silk every stitch, as directed, in round
+netting for a purse, throughout the mitten. Net 4 rounds. 1 round twice
+round the mesh. 2 rounds once round the mesh, increase a stitch, taking
+care to take the left hand side of the stitch as that by the twist you
+give the silk will be nearer the right side of the stitch; net 2
+stitches, increasing in the last. Net two rounds. Increase 2 stitches in
+the third round, (the increase stitches are one before and one after the
+stitches which are over those in which the increase was made last time);
+increase in the same way 5 times, netting 2 rounds between each
+increase. Increase over the last added stitches 3 times, and net several
+rounds until the mitten is long enough for the thumb stitches to be
+joined together. Join the first and last stitches over the last added
+stitches, and net round, decreasing occasionally to make the thumb fit.
+When the thumb is long enough, cut off the silk and fasten it on at the
+bottom; increase 4 stitches, (2 on each side) and net round until the
+hand part of the mitten is long enough.
+
+If desired, the hand and thumb may be finished with a narrow lace, or a
+round of plain netting, 2 stitches in each stitch, which in the next
+round are netted as one stitch, on a small mesh.
+
+
+_Mittens._
+
+     With a leaf wreath round the top.
+
+     Four needles No. 16, and two different coloured silks are required,
+     for instance brown and blue.
+
+Cast 30 stitches on each of 3 needles with the brown silk and rib one
+round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue silk, knit 4 with the brown, knit 2
+stitches bringing the silk forward between each, knit 3 stitches,
+repeat these stitches all round. Rib 1 stitch with the blue, with the
+brown knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat all round and continue these 2 rounds alternately until 5 rounds
+of holes appear. Knit a plain round of brown; knit 2 plain rounds of
+blue and increase 2 stitches on each needle. Knit 4 blue stitches and 4
+brown stitches alternately, round. Knit 1 brown stitch, knit 4 blue, 4
+brown; repeat the last 8 stitches, round. Knit 2 brown stitches, 4 blue,
+4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 3 brown stitches, 4
+blue, 4 brown; repeat the last 8 stitches round. Knit 1 round, blue, 1
+round, brown, 1 round, blue. Make the other half of the wreath the same
+reversed. Knit 2 blue rounds, 1 brown round, in the last 2 rounds
+decrease to 28 stitches on each needle. Bring the blue silk forward,
+knit 2 stitches taken together, repeat this all round. Knit 1 plain
+round. Repeat the last 2 rounds until 18 or 20 rounds of holes appear;
+then with a spare needle take off 14 stitches for the thumb; cast 14
+stitches on the right hand needle, and continue the pattern as before
+until you have 14 rounds of holes above the thumb. Knit the wreath as
+before and finish with a brown round.
+
+Take up the 14 stitches for the thumb, knit about 14 rounds of holes,
+and finish with a brown round.
+
+
+_Feather Mits._
+
+     These mits are very nice and warm to draw over long gloves in going
+     to evening parties. Four needles, No. 13, and German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool
+     are required; the wool should be knitted in shades of either half
+     or a whole skein of wool.
+
+Cast 38 stitches on one, and 19 on each of the 2 other needles. Knit a
+plain round. Bring the wool forward, knit 1 stitch, repeat this twice;
+decrease, taking 2 stitches together 3 times; knit 1 stitch, this is the
+centre stitch of the pattern, and is always plain knitting; decrease 3
+times; increase 3 times; repeat these 19 stitches all round. Plain knit
+3 rounds. These 4 rounds repeated form the pattern.
+
+
+_Cuffs, Peacock Stitch._
+
+     Four needles No. 20, and lace thread or very fine cotton are
+     required.
+
+Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles. Purl 3 stitches, knit 3 stitches,
+bring the thread forward, knit 8 stitches, bringing the thread forward
+between each, knit 2 stitches, repeat these stitches round. 2nd round.
+Purl 3 stitches, pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
+the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit plain until within 2
+stitches of the purl, knit them taken together, repeat all round. Repeat
+this last round until you have only 15 stitches before and after the
+purled stitches. Purl 3 stitches pass the thread back, slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2
+stitches, bring the thread forward, and knit 8 stitches bringing the
+thread forward between each, knit 1 stitch, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat this for the round; then begin again at the 2nd round. When the
+cuff is long enough cast off and sew a bit of lace at each edge.
+
+
+_Netted Cuffs._
+
+     Four skeins of colored lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and 6 of white; a steel pin No.
+     14, a flat wooden mesh 1/2 an inch wide, and a foundation of 120
+     stitches, are required.
+
+Net 2 rows of colored lambsaEuro(TM)-wool with the steel pin; 1 row with white
+lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and the large mesh; then 1 row with the colored, netting 2
+white stitches in one, which reduces the stitches to half the number;
+net another row of colored wool, 1 of white, 2 of colored, &c., until
+there are 7 rows of white, besides the first, with 2 rows of colored
+between each. Net 2 rows of colored, 1 of white, netting 2 stitches in
+every colored one, and finish with 2 rows of colored.
+
+Sew it up, double it and run in a ribbon. This forms a very warm and
+pretty cuff to wear over the sleeve. The white rows are netted on the
+wide mesh, the colored on the small mesh.
+
+
+_Warm Cuffs._
+
+     Two needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches according to the size of your needles;
+knit 12 rows plain; knit 1 row putting the wool twice round the needle;
+rib a row, putting the wool twice round the needle; repeat the last 2
+rows until you have about a quarter of a yard, and finish by knitting 12
+rows as at first.
+
+Sew it up and fold the top and bottom together.
+
+
+_Muffatees._
+
+     Four needles No. 17, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required.
+
+Cast 24 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round, knitting and ribbing
+3 alternate stitches varying the color at pleasure: when the muffatee is
+about six inches long, begin double knitting[24-*] on coarser needles;
+when you have knitted about 2 inches, knit 6 plain rows and cast off;
+sew up the part that is in double knitting.
+
+     [24-*] Double knitting. Begin with the wool forward, slip a stitch,
+     pass the wool back, knit a stitch, continue to repeat these 2
+     stitches. Double knitting cannot be done round.
+
+
+_Muffatees._
+
+     Two middling sized ivory needles and rather fine wool, the color
+     may be varied at pleasure.
+
+Cast on 40 stitches, knit 4 rows; rib 1 row; continue to repeat these
+rows, reckoning the cast on row as one; when the muffatee is long
+enough cast off and sew it up.
+
+These muffatees are very pretty, made on fine needles with German wool.
+
+
+_GentlemenaEuro(TM)s Muffatees._
+
+     Two needles No. 14, 4 skeins of colored German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and 4 of
+     white.
+
+Cast on 54 stitches; bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, and knit 2
+stitches taken together; repeat the same to the end of the row; every
+row is the same; knit up 1 skein of colored wool, 2 of white, and finish
+the muffatee with 1 skein of colored wool; sew it up.
+
+These muffatees are also very nice for ladies, to be worn outside the
+sleeve in very cold weather: they are then knitted with coarse
+lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, the first part done on large needles, the centre on
+smaller, and the remainder on the large needles again.
+
+
+_Cushion Cover._
+
+     This requires 4 needles No. 16, and moderately fine cotton or
+     German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, white or colored, according to fancy.
+
+Cast 100 stitches on each of 2 needles, and 101 on the 3rd; with your
+4th needle knit the 2nd stitch, drawing it over the first; knit the 1st
+stitch, (which will thus stand 2nd); knit the 4th stitch, then the 3rd,
+the 6th, and 5th, and continue the same all round, when you will find an
+odd stitch at the end of your needle, slip this stitch on to the next
+needle, and continue the pattern as before. You will now find an odd
+stitch at the end of each needle, which you must always slip on to the
+next needle.
+
+When you have knitted as much as, when laid flat, will make a square,
+knit or sew up one end, slip in the cushion, sew up the other end, and
+surround it with a cord or fringe.
+
+
+_Sofa Pillow Cover._
+
+     Four Needles No. 11.
+
+Cast 74 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round with the thread
+twice round the needle; in the 2nd round begin by knitting the 2nd
+stitch, slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd
+stitches, 6th and 5th, and continue the same all round; knit one round
+with the thread twice round the needle, and repeat the 2nd round; these
+two rounds form the pattern.
+
+When your work is as long as it is wide, (rather more than half a yard)
+cast off, and surround it with a cord or fringe.
+
+
+_Striped Cushion Cover._
+
+Cast 100 stitches on each of 3 needles No. 11; knit the 2nd stitch
+slipping it over the 1st; knit the 1st, knit the 4th before the 3rd,
+the 6th before the 5th, and continue the same all round. Every round is
+the same.
+
+
+_Knitted Mat with Fringe._
+
+     Four needles No. 14, and rather stout lambsaEuro(TM)-wool.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds; increase by
+bringing the wool forward before _every_ stitch every 3rd round, until
+you have 16 on each needle; knit 2 rounds; purl 2 rounds; knit 1 round,
+increasing (as before) with every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1
+round increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 4 rounds; knit 1 round
+increasing every 3rd stitch; knit 3 rounds; purl 1 round; knit 1 round;
+purl 1 round; knit 1 round; purl 1 round; knit 1 round. Take the wool
+with which you mean to make your fringe and cut it into lengths (you
+will require as many pieces as you have stitches in a round) about 3-1/2
+inches long. Fold the two ends of one of the lengths together and loop
+in on the needle with which you are about to begin to knit, put the
+needle through the 1st stitch, hold the piece of fringe with the third
+finger of the left hand, and knit the stitch, by which you fix the bit
+of fringe; loop on another piece, place it under the third finger of the
+left hand and knit the stitch; continue the same all round; in the next
+round knit each piece of fringe with the adjoining stitch, all round,
+and cast off.
+
+Turn to the back of your mat and pick up the stitches of the round
+before that in which you looped on the fringe; knit 1 round, purl 1
+round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round, knit 1 round, and cast off.
+
+Cut a round piece of card the size of the mat, cover it with green baize
+or colored paper, and sew the edge which is under the fringe firmly to
+the edge of the card all round.
+
+
+_Netted Mat._
+
+     To put between plates.
+
+This mat is netted round. The mesh should be about a 1/4 of an inch
+wide. Net 60 stitches putting the cotton twice round the mesh; net 24
+rounds with the cotton once round the mesh, then 1 round twice round the
+mesh; thread the stitches of this and the first round together, and tie
+it tight, (this is the centre).
+
+Thread the needle with double cotton; and with a much wider mesh net a
+round, passing the needle through by the knots of the 13th round for a
+fringe. The color can be varied at pleasure.
+
+
+_Knitted Vase Mat._
+
+     Two needles No. 14.
+
+This mat is to be knitted in two colors, (violet and maize are very
+pretty). Cast on 3 stitches, increase 2 every row until you have 15;
+knit 2 rows plain, and decrease 1 stitch in every other row, to a
+point. Knit 3 pieces of each color, sew them together with the points in
+the centre, and surround the mat with a fringe. (No. 6 of the former
+vol.)
+
+
+_Table Mats._
+
+These mats are knitted in 6 pieces, 2 side pieces and 4 end pieces.
+
+Side piece. Cast on 20 stitches, knit 18, turn your work, slip 1 of the
+2 stitches on the right-hand needle upon the other needle, pass the
+cotton back, and replace the stitch as it was before, (this must be
+repeated every time you return without knitting the whole row, to
+prevent a hole); knit the 18 stitches back again; in the next row knit
+16 and return, and continue to knit 2 stitches less each time until you
+knit only 2; then knit 4, and continue to add 2 to the number each turn,
+until you knit 18 and back again; cast off.
+
+End piece. Cast on 20 stitches; knit 3 stitches, increase 1, knit to
+within 2 of the end and return; knit 3, increase 1, knit to within 4 of
+the end and return; continue to increase in every 4th stitch and to
+leave 2 more at the end each turn until you have 32 stitches left behind
+and only 4 knitted; then continue to knit 2 more stitches each time,
+without increasing any more until only 2 are left behind; cast off.
+
+Join these pieces together with the points meeting in the centre, and
+surround the mat with a fringe. The size may be altered by varying the
+size of the needles, and round mats may be made with 6 of the side
+pieces.
+
+
+_Table Mat._
+
+     In one piece.
+
+Cast on 3 stitches, and increase 2 in every row until you have 21;
+increase 2 stitches in every 4th row until you have 29 stitches;
+increase 1 stitch in every 4th row until you have 32 stitches; knit 8
+rows; this makes half the mat. Knit the other half to correspond,
+decreasing where you before increased. Surround it with a fringe. The
+size can be altered by varying the size of the pins.
+
+
+_Napkin Ring._
+
+     This ring must be made of string, or stout cord, and with rather
+     fine pins.
+
+Cast 12 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 4 rounds; rib 4 rounds; knit
+3 rounds, and cast off rather tight.
+
+
+_A Pence Purse, or Jug._
+
+     Five needles No. 17, and 2 skeins of German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool of
+     different colors, are required.
+
+Begin with the handle: cast on 4 stitches and knit backwards and
+forwards, in common knitting, until it is an inch and a half long; loop
+6 stitches on the same needle, 26 on the second, and 10 on the third,
+(the 5th needle is not required yet). Knit off the 1st needle, knitting
+2 and ribbing 2 stitches alternately; with the 2nd needle rib 2, knit 2,
+rib 2, pass the wool back, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped
+stitch over the knitted one, knit the succeeding stitches plain until
+within 7 of the end; then knit 2 taken together, knit 1, rib 2, knit 2;
+on the next needle rib 2 and knit 2 alternately; continue to repeat this
+round until you have only 12 stitches on the 2nd needle, and you will
+find you have made the spout. Knit 3 rounds, ribbing 2 and knitting 2
+alternately; take the other color and knit 5 rounds in the same manner,
+then 3 rounds with the first color, 5 with the second; 1 round of plain
+knitting with the first color, 3 rounds ribbed, 1 plain round making a
+stitch between every 2 stitches; 3 rounds ribbed with the second color,
+knit a plain round; in the next 2 rounds, bring the wool forward and
+knit 2 stitches together. With the first color, knit 1 plain round and
+3 ribbed; repeat the last 7 rounds. Now divide the stitches on 4
+needles, (there should be 12 on each,) begin plain knitting, decreasing
+1 stitch on each needle; continue the same for 5 rounds, decreasing
+alternately at the beginning, middle, and end of each needle; knit 3
+rounds, decreasing as you think necessary to keep it a good round shape;
+divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit a plain round, rib 3 rounds
+without decreasing. Begin again to decrease, and continue to do so,
+until you have only 3 stitches on each needle; fasten off with a worsted
+needle, and sew down the handle.
+
+
+_Bouquetier._ No. 1.
+
+     You will require 5 needles No. 14, and two knots of silver twist.
+
+Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 1 round; in the second round
+knit and rib 3 stitches alternately, and continue the same for 44 or 48
+rounds. Plain knit 1 round, bring the thread forward, (thus increasing
+by a loop stitch), knit 3 stitches; bring the thread forward, knit 3;
+and continue the same all round. Knit 2 plain rounds. In the next round
+bring the thread forward at the beginning and in the middle of each
+needle, thus increasing 6 stitches in the round. Knit 2 rounds plain,
+continue to increase in the same manner (6 stitches every 3rd round)
+until you have 16 stitches on each needle. Knit 8 stitches, with the 5th
+needle rib the same stitches back again, and continue to knit and rib
+alternate _rows_, decreasing to a point by taking 2 stitches together in
+the centre of 2 rows out of 3. Finish the other 5 leaves in the same
+manner.
+
+
+_Bouquetier._ No. 2.
+
+     Four needles No. 14.
+
+Cast 6 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit and rib 3 stitches
+alternately for 48 rounds. Then knit and rib alternate _rounds_,
+increasing 2 stitches every round where it will be least observed, until
+you have 40 stitches in the round; turn and knit back again; knit
+backwards and forwards, decreasing 1 stitch at the beginning and 1
+stitch at the end of every row, (for you will perceive those which were
+rounds have become rows) until the bouquetier ends in a point.
+
+
+_Tidy Basket._
+
+     Seven of each needles, No. 16, 14, and 12.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, No. 16; knit round, increasing 4
+stitches in each round, until you have 9 stitches on each needle; divide
+your stitches on 6 needles, and purl 3 rounds; knit 3 rounds, increasing
+3 times in each of the 2 first rounds, and 6 times in the third.
+Alternately knit and purl 2 stitches for 3 rounds; repeat the same 3
+rounds with the larger needles, No. 14; and 3 rounds more with the
+largest, No. 12. Knit 1 round plain, and cast off 20 stitches; knit 4
+stitches, cast off another 20, and knit the remaining 4 for the handle,
+until it is nearly 3 inches long; then knit it to the 4 stitches which
+were left on the opposite side of the basket.
+
+Cover a round bit of card with paper, the color of the basket, and
+fasten it to the bottom on the inside.
+
+
+_Ladder Stitch Bag._
+
+     Two needles No. 12.
+
+Cast on 50 stitches. Second row, knit and rib 2 stitches alternately;
+and in the 3rd row, knit and rib the same stitches: in the 2 following
+rows reverse the knitting and ribbing; continue this pattern for 12
+rows, and also for 10 stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to
+form a border all round. Plain knit 1 row (between the borders). In the
+next row, (after the 10 stitches) knit the 2nd stitch, pulling it over
+the 1st; knit the 1st; knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th; continue the
+same to the end of the row: every row is alike. Continue this pattern
+until the bag is nearly long enough. Add a border as at first, and make
+the other side to correspond. Knit or sew up the sides, and run a ribbon
+round the top.
+
+
+_Crossed Stitch Bag._
+
+     Two needles No. 12.
+
+Cast on 50 stitches. Knit one row with the cotton twice round the
+needle, and in the next row, knit the 2nd stitch, slipping it over the
+1st; knit the 1st, then the 4th and 3rd, 6th and 5th, and continue the
+same to the end of the row. Begin again at the row twice round the
+needle.
+
+When you have knitted enough for the bag, cast off, and sew up the
+sides.
+
+
+_Netted Bag._
+
+     To hold the ball when knitting.
+
+These bags are plain netted, and the size of the foundation must of
+course vary according to the size you wish to have your bag. They are
+very pretty netted with very narrow ribbon in different colors. The mesh
+should be rather wide; when the bag is half deep enough, net in a ring,
+(either brass or whalebone), then net on until the bag is sufficiently
+long.
+
+
+_Fringe._
+
+Cast on 12 stitches; knit 6 stitches plain, bring the wool forward, knit
+2 stitches taken together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the wool forward, knit 2 together. 2nd row, begin with
+the wool forward, knit 2 stitches together, repeat this twice and knit
+the remaining 6 plain; continue these 2 rows until the fringe is the
+length required, then cast off the 6 stitches for the head and unravel
+the 6 stitches of plain knitting.
+
+
+_Netted Fringe._
+
+     To go round a bag.
+
+Net 300 stitches on a mesh 1/2 an inch wide. Take a smaller mesh, (No.
+15,) and net a row taking 3 stitches in 1. Net a plain row. Net a row,
+putting the silk twice round the mesh. Net 3 rows once round the mesh.
+Take a rather larger mesh and net one row, which finishes the fringe.
+_Cut_ it off of the foundation.
+
+
+_Scarf Fringe._
+
+     To be knitted in coarse gold colored flox silk.
+
+Cast on 12 stitches. 1st row, bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
+taken together, knit 6 stitches. 2nd row, knit 8 stitches, bring the
+silk forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 2 stitches, repeat these 2
+rows until you have a sufficient length for the end of a scarf, cast off
+6 stitches, and unravel those that were plain knitted.
+
+
+_Fringe._
+
+Cast on 9 stitches; slip 1 stitch, knit 2, bring the cotton forward and
+knit 2 taken together, knit 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 2 taken
+together, knit the last. Every row is alike. When you have done a
+sufficient length cast off 5 stitches, and leave 4 to unravel for the
+fringe.
+
+
+_Rug Fringe._
+
+Two knitting needles No. 11, a ball of coarse knitting cotton, and some
+yarn or coarse wool are required. Cut the yarn into lengths of about two
+inches.
+
+Cast on 30 stitches with the cotton, knit 2 stitches, take 2 bits of
+yarn, fold the ends together and loop them towards you, on your right
+hand needle, knit a stitch; loop on the yarn after every stitch until
+within 2 stitches of the end of the row, which knit. The back row is
+plain knitting, being careful to knit the yarn with the stitch. Repeat
+these two rows.
+
+
+_Carriage Rug._
+
+     Two needles No. 12, a ball of coarse cotton or fine string, and
+     some coarse _yarn_ cut into lengths of about two inches.
+
+With the ball cast on 40 stitches, and knit 1 row. Knit 1 stitch, place
+1 piece of the yarn between the needles so that one end be on each side;
+knit 1 stitch, pass the end of the yarn which is towards you between the
+needles, knit 1 stitch, repeat the same to within 2 stitches of the end
+and knit them plain; knit 1 plain row. 3rd row, knit 2 stitches before
+you put on the yarn, which will leave you 1 stitch at the end of the
+row; this altering the yarn stitch makes the mat look thicker. When the
+strip is as long as you wish the rug to be, cast off and begin another.
+When the strips are sewed together and lined, this makes a very warm
+mat.
+
+
+_Striped Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 17; foundation 72 stitches wide.
+
+Net 4 plain rows; net 1 row putting the silk twice round the mesh; in
+the next row net the 2nd stitch first, (in netting it half turn it),
+then net the 1st in the same way; repeat these stitches to the end of
+the row. Net 3 plain rows. Net 1 row putting the silk twice round the
+mesh, then a row netting the 2nd stitch first, and so on until the purse
+is wide enough.
+
+N.B. This purse is very pretty with only 2 small rows instead of 4, and
+netted in shades of different colors.
+
+
+_Chequered Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 17, and as many needles as you wish to have squares.
+
+Net 6 stitches in pink silk backwards and forwards for 12 rows; net 6
+stitches of brown silk, beginning at the distance of 6 stitches from the
+pink; pass the brown silk through the loop of the pink, and when the
+rows form alternate squares of pink and brown, begin with the pink over
+the brown, and the brown over the pink.
+
+
+_Purse in Round Netting._
+
+     Mesh No. 14; a foundation 72 stitches wide.
+
+Every row is alike. After the needle has been drawn through the stitch
+(as in common netting), before pulling the stitch tight, it is passed
+under that part of the silk which goes through the stitch.
+
+
+_Matrimony.--For a Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 15, and a foundation of 60 or 70 stitches.
+
+Net 1 row. 2nd row, net the 2nd stitch first then net the first, passing
+the needle through the second as well as the first, to join them
+together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 3rd row, plain
+netting. 4th row, net a stitch, miss a stitch, net the next, then net
+the stitch you missed, passing the needle through the last stitch, (it
+will be seen that the object in netting a stitch before beginning the
+pattern is to prevent the joined stitches being over each other); repeat
+the 2 last stitches to the end of the row, netting the last stitch.
+
+
+_Another._
+
+Begin on a foundation of 60 stitches, with a mesh No. 15. Net a row,
+passing the silk twice round the mesh. 2nd row, (once round the mesh,)
+net the 2nd stitch first, half turning it, then net the other plain, net
+the 4th, half turning it, then the 3rd plain, repeat these stitches
+until the row is finished. Begin again with the 1st row.
+
+
+_Annet Purse._
+
+     Mesh No. 17, and foundation of 60 stitches.
+
+Net the 1st row, passing the silk twice round the mesh every stitch. 2nd
+row, pull the 1st stitch _through_ the 2nd from the back, net it; pull
+the 2nd stitch through the _middle_ of the 1st, (taking care not to
+twist it), net it; pull the 3rd through the 4th, net it; pull the 4th
+through the _middle_ of the 3rd, net it; repeat these stitches to the
+end of the row. Begin again with the 1st row, netting 1 stitch plain
+before beginning the pattern.
+
+
+_Honey-comb Purse._
+
+On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 plain row. 2nd row, pass the 2nd
+stitch through the 1st, net it, (in netting it give it a twist so as to
+half turn it); net the 1st; pass the 4th through the 3rd (half turning
+it) and net it; net the 3rd; repeat these stitches to the end of the
+row. Begin again with the first row. Next row net the 1st stitch plain
+before beginning the pattern.
+
+
+_Another Honey-comb._
+
+On a foundation of 60 stitches. Net 1 row passing the silk twice round
+the mesh. 2nd row; put the side of the 2nd stitch which is nearest the
+1st over it, draw it quite through so as to twist the 2 stitches
+together, half turn and net it, net the first; repeat these stitches to
+the end of the row. Next row begin again.
+
+
+_Netted Purse._
+
+     In two colors.
+
+Fill 2 needles with 2 colors which contrast well. The purse should be 80
+or 90 stitches wide. Fasten on both needles together and net alternate
+stitches with each, reversing the colors every row. Except in this
+change of color, every row is the same.
+
+
+_Single Diamond Netting._
+
+     On a round foundation with mesh No. 18; 80 stitches will make a
+     purse four inches wide.
+
+Net 1st stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 2nd stitch once
+round, 3rd stitch twice round, 4th stitch once round, and so on
+alternately. When the round is finished, (it will finish by a stitch
+once round the mesh,) draw out the mesh, put it in one of the long
+stitches and net the round; every other stitch will be a loop stitch;
+the round finishes with a loop stitch. Continue these alternate rounds
+until the purse is long enough for the opening to be begun; then instead
+of netting _round_ the purse, turn back and net from side to side. The
+1st stitch in the 1st _row_ is once _round_ the mesh, the 2nd twice, the
+3rd once, the 4th twice, 5th once, &c. In the 2nd row, the first stitch
+has the silk passed twice round the mesh; it is then taken at its full
+length and the row continued, each alternate stitch being a loop stitch.
+When the slit is long enough, (after either 14 or 16 rows,) begin to net
+round again. If after 14 rows, the 1st stitch in beginning to net round
+the purse will be once round the mesh.
+
+
+_Treble Diamond Netting._
+
+     On a round foundation of 40 stitches, and with a mesh No. 17 or 18.
+
+Net 2 rounds plain. Begin the next round by putting the silk twice
+round the mesh for the 1st stitch, net 3 stitches, with the silk once
+round the mesh; repeat these 4 stitches until the round is completed.
+Take out the mesh and put it in again at the full length of one of the
+long stitches; net the following stitch, (which will be a long one), net
+the next a loop stitch, then net the 2 next close to the mesh and slip
+them off: begin again with netting the long stitch, the loop stitch, the
+2 close to the mesh, slip them off; repeat these 4 stitches to the end
+of the round, finishing of course with 2 stitches close to the mesh.
+Begin the next round with 2 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch, 1
+stitch close to the mesh, (this stitch must always be slipped off the
+mesh before netting the next); repeat these stitches to the end of the
+round. Next round net 3 stitches close to the mesh, 1 loop stitch;
+repeat these stitches to the end of the round. Begin again with the 1st
+round, viz.--1 stitch with the silk twice round the mesh, 3 with the
+silk once round, and proceed as directed until the purse is long enough
+to begin the opening, which should be begun in a round after that in
+which you put the silk twice round the mesh for 1 stitch, and once round
+it for 3. To make the opening: for the 1st stitch pass the silk twice
+round the mesh, take it out and put it in again at the full length of
+the 1st stitch, net a stitch, net a loop stitch, net 2 close to the
+mesh, slip them off, &c. as directed before. When the slit is long
+enough, begin to net in _rounds_ instead of _rows_, taking care to make
+the diamond stitches match.
+
+
+_Knitted Purse._
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 5. 1st round; bring
+the silk forward knit 1 stitch, bring the silk forward slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2 taken
+together, repeat this all round. 2nd round; plain knitting. 3rd round,
+is the same as the 1st. 4th round plain knitting. 5th round; bring the
+silk forward, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward slip a stitch,
+knit 2 taken together pull the slipped stitch over, repeat the same all
+round. 6th round plain knitting. Begin again.
+
+
+_Stitches for Purses._ No. 1.
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast 30 stitches on each of three needles. Knit a plain round. In
+beginning the next round, knit the 2nd stitch (instead of the first,)
+knit the first; knit the 4th, then the 3rd, the 6th and 5th, and
+continue the same until the purse is long enough.
+
+
+No. 2.
+
+     With 2 needles.
+
+Cast on 60 or 80 stitches; bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit
+2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted ones; repeat
+the same to the end of the row. Every row is alike.
+
+
+No. 3.
+
+     With 2 needles.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches which will divide by 3; bring the silk
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 stitches and pass the slipped stitch over
+the 2 knitted; bring the silk forward slip a stitch, &c. to the end of
+the row. Knit a plain row and begin again.
+
+
+No. 4.
+
+     On 2 needles.
+
+Bring the thread forward, slip a stitch, knit 2 and pass the slipped
+stitch over the 2 which are knitted, repeat the same to the end of the
+row; knit a plain row. These 2 rows form the pattern, but in the 3rd
+row you must commence by knitting 2 stitches before beginning the
+pattern, in order that the 1st of the 2 knitted stitches may come over
+the hole, and for the same purpose you must begin the 6th row by
+knitting 1 stitch.
+
+This purse is very pretty knitted in 2 colors, alternately 2 rows of
+each.
+
+
+No. 5.
+
+     Two needles.
+
+Cast on the desired number of stitches. Knit 1 row taking 2 stitches
+together. 2nd row, turn the thread round the needle to make a stitch,
+rib a stitch, make a stitch as before, rib a stitch, &c. to the end of
+the row. 3rd row, plain knitting; in the 4th row, which is ribbed when
+you come to the hole, knit the stitch belonging to this and that of the
+last row together, repeat the same with every hole. Begin again at the
+1st row.
+
+
+No. 6.
+
+     Two needles.
+
+Cast on 90 stitches, slip the 1st stitch and finish the row taking 2
+stitches together every time, knit the last stitch. 2nd row, slip the
+1st stitch, and with the thread twice round the needle knit to the last
+stitch, which is to be knitted plain. 3rd row, slip the 1st stitch, pick
+up the thread which is across the hole with the left hand needle and
+knit it with the next stitch (which is taken at full length) after
+twinging the thread forward. Bring the thread forward again, pick up the
+thread which is across the hole and knit it with the next stitch,
+continue the same to the last stitch which is knitted. 4th row, slip the
+1st stitch, knit the 2nd, pick up the thread which is across the hole
+and knit it with the stitch which is over the hole, continue the same to
+the end of the row. Begin again at the 1st row.
+
+
+No. 7.
+
+Knit the 1st row (except the 1st and last stitches which are knitted
+plain in every row) taking 2 stitches together. Knit a plain row. 3rd
+row, slip a stitch, bring the silk forward, pick up the thread which is
+across the hole, taking care not to twist it, and knit it with the next
+stitch, continue the same to the end of the row; the 4th row is plain
+knitting. Begin again at the 1st row.
+
+
+_Bead Netting._
+
+Net a plain row on a foundation the desired length. 2nd row, net to
+where you wish to place a bead, slip a bead close up to the last knot
+and net a stitch; repeat the same wherever you wish to place a bead, and
+the next row will fix these in their places.
+
+
+_Bead Netting_,
+
+     With the bead on the knot.
+
+Thread a bead needle with some of your netting silk; net a plain row;
+net to where you wish to place a bead, thread 1 bead and slip it close
+to the mesh, net the next stitch, slip the bead under the mesh close up
+to the last knot, and pass your needle and netting silk through the
+bead, which fixes it on the knot; repeat the same wherever you wish to
+place a bead. This netting may be done either round or open.
+
+
+_Dice Knitting._
+
+     For a Purse.
+
+This purse is knitted in 2 colors, it must be done with very fine
+needles and 11 little balls of fine knitting silk.
+
+Cast on 8 stitches of the 1st color and 8 of the 2nd alternately until
+you have 80 stitches, using a new ball for each change of color, 2nd
+row, knit the 8 stitches of the 1st color, pass _that_ silk round the
+silk of the 2nd color and bring it forward; with the 2nd colored silk
+knit the 8 stitches of the 2nd color, pass it round the next silk and
+bring it forward; continue the same to the end of the row. Knit on in
+the same manner for 14 rows, then to change the color take another ball
+of your 2nd color and join it on at the beginning of your row, knit with
+the 2nd color 1 stitch, pass the 1st color forward, knit 1 stitch with
+the 2nd color, pass the 1st back, knit 1 with the 2nd, pass the 1st
+forward, and the same for the 8 stitches. You will now find that you
+have 2 threads of the 2nd color and 1 of the 1st together, pass 1 thread
+of the 2nd color round the others and bring it forward, knit 1 stitch
+with the 1st color, bring forward the other thread of the 2nd color,
+knit 1 stitch with the 1st, pass the 2nd back, knit 1 with the 1st, and
+continue the same for the rest of the 8 stitches, when you will find 2
+threads of the 1st color, and 1 of the 2nd together; twist and bring
+forward 1 thread of the 1st color, and knit the others as you did those
+of the 2nd color in the last square. Finish the row in this manner, then
+knit as at first until another row of squares is completed; reverse the
+color again.
+
+This is a nice pattern for a carriage mat done with very large needles
+and stout wool, and also for many other things, as from being neat on
+both sides it does not require lining.
+
+
+_Open Fan for a Quilt._
+
+     Fine cotton and needles No. 17 or 18.
+
+Cast on 62 stitches. Knit 3 rows. In the next row slip a stitch, knit 5,
+decrease by knitting 2 together, knit until only 8 are left on the left
+hand needle, knit 2 taken together, knit the rest, (6 on each side are
+_always_ knitted plain for the border.) Knit a plain row, repeat these
+2 last rows, (decreasing 2 stitches in every other row) twice. Slip a
+stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward and purl to the border
+stitches, decreasing at the beginning and end of the purled stitches. A
+plain row. Slip a stitch, knit 5, bring the cotton forward, decrease,
+purl the rest, decreasing again before the border stitches. A plain row.
+Slip a stitch, knit 5, decrease, knit the rest, decreasing before the
+border stitches. Slip 1, knit 5, purl to the border stitches. Slip 1,
+knit 5, decrease, bring the cotton forward, slip 1, knit 1, pull the
+slipped stitch over the knitted one, bring the cotton forward, slip 1,
+knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, repeat these
+stitches, decrease, knit to the border. Slip a stitch, knit 5, purl the
+rest, knit the border stitches. A plain row, decreasing as before. The
+last 10 rows to be repeated, decreasing 2 stitches every other row until
+14 stitches are left; after this every row is plain knitting, still
+decreasing every other row until only 2 stitches are left, knit them; in
+the next row knit them together, and draw the cotton through the last
+stitch.
+
+
+_Gauffre Fans for a Quilt._
+
+Cast on 72 stitches. Knit 3 rows; the first stitch of every row is
+_slipped_ throughout the pattern. In the 4th row knit 4 stitches,
+counting the slipped stitch as one, decrease with the 5th, knit 60,
+decrease, knit the remaining 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, knit
+58, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, bring the
+cotton forward, purl 56, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4,
+decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, repeat the last 6 stitches seven
+times, slip 2, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 2, slip 2,[62-*]
+purl 4, slip 2 and purl 4, seven times, slip 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 4,
+decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2 and knit 4, seven times, knit
+1, decrease 1, knit 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c.
+ending, the row with 1 purled stitch and 5 knitted. Knit 4, decrease 1,
+slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decrease 1, and knit the 4 last stitches. A
+plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 48, decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row.
+Knit 4, decrease 1, knit 1, slip 2, knit 4, &c. ending the row with
+knitting 1 stitch, decreasing 1 and knitting 4. Knit 5, purl 1, slip 2,
+purl 4, &c. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5,
+bring the cotton forward, slip 2, purl 4, slip 2, &c. Knit 5, slip 2,
+decrease 1, knit 2, slip 2, knit 4, slip 2, &c. decreasing 1 stitch in
+the last 4, slip 2, knit 5. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, purl 40,
+decrease 1, knit 4. A plain row. Knit 4, decrease 1, slip 2, knit 4, and
+so on to the end. It will be seen that care is taken to place the 2
+middle stitches of the 4 over the stitches which were slipped in the
+last pattern; when the decrease comes on the slipped stitch it is made
+_not_ on that but in the following 4. Continue to decrease 2 in every
+other row. When only 10 stitches are left, every row is plain knitting,
+decreasing as before every other row until you have only 2 stitches,
+knit them together and pass the cotton through the last stitch.
+
+     [62-*] In rows like this always keep the cotton before in slipping
+     a stitch.
+
+
+_Ribbed Squares._
+
+     For a Quilt.
+
+Cast on 2 stitches; knit them. 3rd row, knit 1 stitch, increase a stitch
+at the back of the first stitch, knit the 2nd and increase again. 4th
+row, plain knitting. 5th row, knit 2, stitches, increase 1 in the 2nd,
+increase again in the 3rd, knit the 4th. 6th row, plain knitting. 7th
+row, knit 2 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 2. 8th row,
+knit 3, purl 2, knit 3. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3.
+Knit 4, purl 2, knit 4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1,
+increase 1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1, knit 2,
+purl 2, knit 2, increase 1, knit 3. Knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit
+4. Knit 3, increase 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 1, increase
+1, knit 3. Knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 5. Knit 3, increase 1,
+purl 2, knit 2, &c. increasing before the last 3. Knit 3, purl 1, knit
+2, purl 2, &c. Continue to increase 2 stitches every other row until
+there are 72, knitting and purling the stitches so as to make them lay
+in ribs; decrease as you increased, ending with 2 stitches, knit them
+together.
+
+
+_Open work Fan._
+
+     For a Quilt.
+
+Cast on 74 stitches. Knit 6 rows. The first stitch in every row is
+always slipped. Knit 2 stitches, decrease 1, bring the cotton forward
+slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, bring
+the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped stitch over
+the knitted; repeat these stitches until only 4 are left on the left
+hand needle, decrease 1 and knit the 2 last. Knit 3 stitches, purl 66,
+knit the 3 last. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
+slip a stitch, knit 2, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted,
+repeat these stitches until only 4 stitches are left on the needle,
+decrease, and knit 2. Knit 3, purl 64, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease 1, knit
+2, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
+stitch over those which are knitted; repeat these stitches, as before,
+decrease and knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 62, knit 3. Knit 2, decrease
+1, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 2, pull the slipped
+over the knitted stitches, repeat these 3 stitches, bringing the cotton
+forward _before_ slipping the 1st; when only 4 are left decrease, and
+knit the 2 last. Knit 3, purl 60, knit 3. Repeat these alternate rows,
+decreasing 2 stitches every other row (taking care that the _first_
+slipped stitch is immediately before the stitch which is over the hole)
+until only 6 stitches are left. Knit every row plain decreasing as
+before until only 2 stitches are left, knit them together and pass the
+cotton through the remaining stitch.
+
+
+_An open Border._
+
+Any number of stitches may be set up, that will divide by 3. Slip the
+1st stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit a stitch,
+pull the 2nd slipped stitch over the 3rd stitch; repeat these 3 stitches
+to the end of the row. 2nd row, plain knitting. 3rd row ribbed. Then
+begin with the first row again.
+
+A few plain knitted stitches for a border are a great improvement.
+
+
+_Another Border._
+
+Cast on any even number of stitches. Rib _each_ row with the exception
+of 3 stitches on each side for the border, which are knitted plain. When
+you have 4 ribs on the right side, knit a plain row. Knit the 3 border
+stitches, leave the cotton on the outside of the needle and rib 2
+stitches taken together, this makes a loop stitch; pass the cotton back
+and repeat these 2 stitches until you come to the border. The next row
+is plain knitting. Then rib again backwards and forwards until you come
+to the row before the holes, which is again to be plain knitting. To be
+sure that your pattern is right you must be able to count 7 ridges on
+the wrong side, and 4 on the right.
+
+
+_A Last Border._
+
+For a Quilt.
+
+     Two needles No. 16, and medium sized cotton.
+
+Cast on 101 stitches (or any uneven number). 1st row, knit the second
+stitch first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and
+3rd, 6th and 5th, and repeat the same until you come to the last, which
+knit. 2nd row, purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you
+were going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the
+right hand and purl it. Repeat the same to the last stitch, which is to
+be purled. Begin again at the 1st row.
+
+
+_Grecian Border._
+
+     Two needles No. 14, and coarse cotton.
+
+Cast on 28 stitches. 1st row, rib 4, knit 12, rib 4, knit 4, rib 4. 2nd
+row, all purled. 3rd row is the same as the 1st. 4th row, purl. 5th row,
+the same as the 1st. 6th row, purl. 7th row, same as the 1st. 8th row,
+purled. 9th row, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12, knit 4, purl 4. The back rows
+are all purled. 11th, 13th, and 15th like the 9th. 17th, 19th, 21st, and
+23rd rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 12, purl 4. 25th 27th 29th and
+31st rows, purl 4, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, purl 12. 33rd 35th 37th and
+39th rows, purl 4, knit 20, purl 4. 41st, 43rd, 45th and 47th rows, purl
+12, knit 4, purl 4, knit 4, and purl 4. Begin again with the 1st row.
+
+
+_Diamond Knitting._
+
+     For a Quilt Border.
+
+Cast on 57 stitches, 10 on each side are for the border, and are always
+plain knitting. Knit the border, knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it,
+knit 7, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, and repeat from
+the border: your number of stitches should always be the same. Back row,
+knit the border stitches, and rib the rest; _every_ back row is the
+same. Knit to where you decreased last, bring the cotton forward, slip 1
+stitch, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 5 stitches,
+decrease by taking 2 stitches in 1, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
+repeat the last 12 stitches to the border. Back row. You are to continue
+increasing and decreasing in the same manner until you have only 3
+stitches between the increases, then decrease at the sides of the
+diamond which you have made by increasing, and increase on each side
+before and after the decrease. You will now have enough of the pattern
+done to see how to proceed.
+
+Observe that when you have only 3 stitches at the top of the diamond you
+have been decreasing, and the back row is done, you begin to decrease
+the other diamond. Also, that after the 1st diamond is done, your
+greatest number of plain stitches between the decrease will be 5.
+
+
+_Border for a Table Cover._
+
+Cast on 90 stitches. Knit the 1st stitch, bring the thread forward, slip
+a stitch, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward, slip a
+stitch, &c. to the end of the row, where you will find but 1 stitch to
+knit after the last slipped stitch. Continue the pattern (observing to
+begin every row with one plain knitted stitch) until you have enough in
+length, then cast off.
+
+This border in crimson cotton or German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool, is a nice finish to
+a dark cloth cover.
+
+
+_Border and Fringe._
+
+     In 2 colors; for a Table cover or Shawl.
+
+Cast on 28 stitches with the first color. Knit 2 stitches with the 2nd
+color, knit 2 stitches with the 1st color, 2 with the 2nd, 2 with the
+1st, and continue the same to the end of the row, which will be 2
+stitches of the 1st color. Begin the next row by knitting 2 stitches of
+the 1st color, pass the thread forward, place it under the thumb of the
+left hand, pass the 2nd color back and knit 2 stitches, continue the
+same to the end of the row, and then begin again at the 2nd row only
+observing to knit the 2nd color over the 1st and the 1st over the 2nd.
+After 2 more rows, reverse the colors again.
+
+When you have a sufficient length cast off 20 stitches and unravel 8 for
+the Fringe.
+
+
+_Scarf for the Throat._
+
+     It will require 2 needles No. 12, and Scarlet German LambsaEuro(TM)-wool.
+
+Cast on 86 stitches; knit and rib 4 stitches alternately, but as 86
+cannot divide by 4, you must knit 5 instead in two places in the course
+of the row. After 4 rows in this manner reverse the knitting and ribbing
+for 4 rows; continue this pattern for about a quarter of a yard, (and
+also for 12 stitches at each end of every succeeding row) and commence
+the second pattern between the 12 border stitches. 1st row; knit 2
+stitches taken together, plain knit 8 stitches, rib 3; repeat the same
+until you come to the 12 stitches of the border. 2nd row; (after the
+border) rib 8 stitches, bring the wool forward, give it a twist round
+the needle (to increase 1 stitch) and rib 1 stitch, knit 3, repeat this
+to the border. 3rd row; knit 2 stitches, knit 2 taken together, knit 6,
+rib 3, &c. 4th row; rib 6 stitches, increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. 5th
+row; knit 4, take 2 together, knit 4, rib 3, &c. 6th row; rib 4,
+increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 7th row; knit 6, take 2 together, rib 3,
+&c. 8th row; rib 2, increase 1, rib 7, knit 3, &c. 9th row; knit 8, knit
+2 together, rib 3, &c. 10th row; rib 1, increase 1, rib 8, knit 3, &c.
+11th row; knit 6, knit 2 taken together, knit 2, rib 3, &c. 12th row;
+rib 3, increase 1, rib 6, knit 3, &c. 13th row; knit 4, knit 2 together,
+knit 4, rib 3, &c. 14th row; rib 4, increase 1, rib 5, knit 3, &c. 15th
+row; knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 6, rib 3, &c. 16th row; rib 6,
+increase 1, rib 3, knit 3, &c. Begin again at the 1st row of the second
+pattern, and repeat the pattern until the scarf is nearly long enough,
+then finish with the border as at first. Sew the undermentioned edge to
+the sides and a piece of Scarf Fringe to the ends.
+
+
+_Scarf Edge._
+
+     Two needles and gold colored flox silk.
+
+Cast on 6 stitches. 1st row; bring the silk forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2 taken
+together. 2nd row; knit 2 stitches, bring the silk forward and knit 2
+taken together, knit 2 stitches.
+
+A repetition of these 2 rows forms the pattern.
+
+
+_Scarf._
+
+     Two needles No. 7.
+
+Cast on 80 stitches; pass the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit a
+stitch, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1 stitch, rib
+1 stitch, continue this to the end of the row; every row is the same.
+
+This scarf takes about 2-1/2 ounces of German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool; it requires a
+wide fringe at the end and is very pretty if knitted with shaded ends,
+which are done by using successively 2 skeins of 5 or 6 shades of the
+desired color, beginning with the darkest.
+
+
+_Netted Scarf._
+
+     On a foundation of 54 stitches.
+
+Net successively 6 rows of the following colors; waterloo blue, scarlet,
+amber, blue, yellow, scarlet, dark blue, amber, scarlet, light blue,
+amber, and scarlet.
+
+
+_Porcupine Boa._
+
+     Four needles No. 15, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required.
+
+Cast 36 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 4 stitches, bring the wool
+forward, knit a stitch--this is the centre stitch of the pattern--bring
+the wool forward, knit 4 stitches, slip a stitch taking it under, knit 2
+taken together, pull the slipped stitch over it, then begin knitting the
+4 stitches, &c. It is better at the end of each needle to knit 1 stitch
+off the next one, as it prepares for the next round; continue this for
+6 rounds, increasing _before_ and _after_ every centre stitch, and
+knitting to within 1 of where you decreased, which stitch slip, knit the
+next 2 together, and pull the slipped stitch over it. Knit 3 plain
+rounds. Knit to within 1 stitch of the centre stitch, slip it; knit 2
+together, these 6 rounds increase each side of the stitch with which you
+decreased in the last pattern, which makes that the centre stitch this
+time.
+
+Your number should always be the same as you began with: it is easy to
+count the number of rounds you have done, at the place where you
+decrease.
+
+This boa is knitted with the wrong side outwards. When finished, fill it
+with cotton wool and put strings to it.
+
+
+_Leggings._
+
+     Two ivory needles and rather fine lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required.
+
+Cast on 44 stitches, knit 7 rows, then knit 2 inches, knitting and
+ribbing 2 stitches alternately; knit 8 rows, continue plain knitting and
+increase at the beginning and ending of every 4th row; when you have 60
+stitches knit 4 rows, then decrease in the same proportion as you
+increased until you have but 52 stitches; knit 6 rows, and finish to
+match the top. Sew them up.
+
+
+_Waistcoat._
+
+     Large Size.
+
+Cast on 68 stitches, knit 38 rows; cast on 14 stitches, knit 26 rows,
+cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 26, knit 68 rows, cast off 26
+stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 26 rows, cast off 14
+stitches, knit 38 rows.
+
+     The Sleeve.
+
+Cast on 45 stitches, knit 90 rows, decrease 1 in each row, which leaves
+a narrow bit to tack to the shoulder strap, and leaves the sleeve open
+under the arm.
+
+
+_Knitted Waistcoat._
+
+Cast on 54 stitches; knit 38 rows, cast on 14 stitches, knit 14 rows;
+cast off 34 stitches, knit 4 rows. Cast on 26 stitches, knit 66 rows,
+cast off 26 stitches, knit 4 rows, cast on 34 stitches, knit 14 rows,
+cast off 14 stitches, and knit 38 rows.
+
+     Sleeves.
+
+Cast on 43 stitches, add 1 stitch each row until there are 60, knit 9
+rows. Decrease 1 stitch in each row for 8 rows, then 3 in each row for
+19.
+
+
+_Warm Tippet._
+
+     Two needles, No. 11.
+
+Cast on 60 stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 2
+taken together, and continue to knit in the same manner for 10 rows,
+then knit (still observing the same stitch) 6 stitches, (2 repetitions
+of the pattern), and back; knit 12 stitches and back; 18 and back; and
+knit backwards and forwards in this manner advancing 6 stitches farther
+each time until you have but 6 stitches left behind, then knit fewer
+stitches by 6 than in the last row, and knit backwards and forwards
+receding 6 stitches each time until you knit only 6 and return: you have
+now completed the first of the gussets which shape the tippet. Knit 6
+stitches, bring the thread forward as if to continue the pattern, pick
+up a stitch between the stitches and purl it, bring the thread forward,
+slip a stitch and knit 2 together; continue the same stitch to the end
+of the row without any more increase. In the next row knit 2 stitches
+in the increased stitch, and in the following row, when you come to the
+increased stitches, bring the thread forward, slip a stitch and knit 1
+(instead of 2,) you have thus added 1 stripe to your row; knit 4 rows,
+and in the next row begin to add another stripe to your row within the
+first 6 stitches; by the time this stripe is made, you will have knitted
+10 entire rows. Knit 6 stitches and return, and knit as before (for the
+gusset) until you come to the row in which you knit to within 6 of the
+end, then knit a smaller number each time until you knit only 6 stitches
+and return. Knit a whole row, increasing after the 6th stitch, and add 2
+stripes to the row, (as described in the 48th row.) Knit in the gusset
+again, and then in 10 whole rows add 2 stripes as before; knit the
+gusset, (which of course increases in size with the increased number of
+stitches.) Add 2 stripes. Knit a gusset. Knit 6 stitches, pass the
+thread forward, slip 1 stitch, take 2 stitches upon another needle, slip
+another stitch, and, passing the 2 stitches, knit the 4 stitches
+together, bring the thread forward and go on. In the next row, when you
+come to where you have decreased, it will be necessary to knit 3
+stitches together instead of 2. Decrease in the same manner twice in the
+10 complete rows. Knit in a gusset. Decrease 4 times in the 10 whole
+rows. Knit a gusset. Knit 20 whole rows. This completes half of the
+cape; the other half must be knitted to correspond, only that you must
+increase where before you decreased, and decrease where you increased.
+
+
+_Night Cap._
+
+     With moderately fine cotton and 5 needles.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles: increase 2 stitches on each
+needle; in the next round, increase 1 stitch on each needle; make a seam
+in the middle of each needle and increase on each side of it every other
+round, until you have a sufficient number of stitches for the size of
+your cap. Leave off seaming the middle stitches and knit round until
+your cap is 3/4 of a yard long, then finish the end like the beginning,
+decreasing where you before increased.
+
+
+_Night Cap._
+
+     French Pattern.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 4 needles, knit round increasing them to 4,
+next round increase 1 on each needle and make seams of the centre
+stitches. Knit round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the seam
+(leaving 3 stitches between the 2 that are increased) on each needle.
+When your cap is large enough round, leave off seaming and knit round
+until the cap is 3/4 of a yard long: make the end like the beginning.
+
+
+_LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Sleeve._
+
+Cast on each of 3 needles 18 or 24 stitches according to the size of the
+sleeve wished for; knit and rib 3 stitches alternately until the sleeve
+is about 3 inches long. Then take coarser needles and coarser
+lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and knit plain until the sleeve is nearly long enough, and
+finish by ribbing it again for about an inch and a half.
+
+
+_Cephaline._
+
+     To be worn on the head on leaving heated rooms.
+
+     A mesh 3/4 of an inch wide and one 1/4 that width are required. It
+     may be netted in flox silk or fine lambsaEuro(TM)-wool.
+
+Net a row of 60 stitches and back again with the large mesh (these are
+the middle rows). Net a row with the fine mesh. The next row is netted
+with the large mesh 3 stitches in each stitch, then a row with the fine
+mesh taking each stitch separately. Afterwards a row with the large mesh
+2 stitches in each of the first 60 stitches, 1 in each of the next 60,
+and 2 in each of the rest; a narrow row; a Wide row without increase; a
+narrow row; a wide row 3 stitches in each stitch. Repeat these rows on
+the other side, beginning at the first narrow row.
+
+Run a ribbon through the middle rows, sew the ends to the ribbon and the
+Cephaline is made.
+
+
+_Diamond Knitting._
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 11; begin with the
+cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over it,
+knit 6 stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, bring the cotton
+forward, knit 1 stitch; repeat these 11 stitches all round. A plain
+round. Knit 1 stitch, bring the cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1,
+pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 4, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the cotton forward and knit 2 stitches; repeat these 11
+stitches all round. A plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the cotton
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 2, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 3,
+repeat these round. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, bring the cotton
+forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over the knitted
+one, knit 2 taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 4, repeat
+these 11 stitches round. A plain round. Knit 4 stitches, bring the
+cotton forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped over the knitted
+stitch, knit 5 stitches. A plain round. Knit 3 stitches, knit 2
+together, bring the cotton forward, knit 1, bring the cotton forward,
+slip a stitch, knit 1, pull the slipped stitch over, knit 3; repeat
+these stitches round. You will perceive that this round begins another
+round of diamonds, and that you increase from the point of the diamond,
+and decrease the other half diamond to a point.
+
+
+_Another Diamond Knitting._
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 8, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+6, repeat these 8 stitches all round. Knit a plain round. Bring the
+thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch,
+knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it; knit 3, knit 2 taken
+together, repeat this all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward,
+knit 3 stitches, bring the thread forward slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull
+the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, repeat this
+all round. Plain round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1
+and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the thread forward knit 3 stitches, repeat this all round. Plain
+round. Bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
+slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward
+knit 4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+5, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches, bring the thread
+forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit
+4, repeat this all round. Plain round. Knit 2 stitches taken together,
+bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward slip 1
+stitch, knit 1 and pull the slipped stitch over it, knit 3, repeat this
+all round. Plain round. Knit 1, bring the thread forward, knit 3
+stitches, bring the thread forward, slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pull the
+slipped stitch over it, knit 2 taken together, bring the thread forward
+and repeat the last 8 stitches all round. Plain round. Now you will see
+you are to begin decreasing the 5 stitches of the smaller diamonds; and
+you have enough of the pattern done to see how to proceed. The 3 middle
+stitches of the larger diamond are _always_ plain knitting, and the 1st
+decrease is done with the remaining stitch of the small diamond.
+
+
+_Small Feather Pattern._
+
+     As this is knitted round, 4 needles are required. It is very pretty
+     for a purse or mitten.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 13. Begin with the
+thread forward knit 1 stitch, bring the thread forward knit 1 stitch,
+thus increasing 2 loop stitches, knit 2 stitches taken together, twice,
+knit 1 stitch, this is the centre stitch of one stripe, decrease twice,
+increase twice, and repeat these 13 stitches all round. Knit 3 rounds.
+Repeat these 4 rounds.
+
+
+_Double Eyelet Knitting._
+
+     Four needles are required.
+
+Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by 7. Begin with the
+thread forward, knit 1 stitch, decrease by taking 2 stitches together,
+knit 1 stitch, decrease 1 stitch, increase 1 stitch, repeat these 7
+stitches all round, and knit 2 rounds plain. Repeat these 3 rounds.
+
+
+_Gouty Shoes._
+
+For the sole cast on 10 stitches and knit 3 rows. Knit on, increasing 1
+stitch near the middle of every alternate row until you have 20
+stitches. Increase every 4th row, until you have 24 stitches. Knit 12
+rows. Increase twice, 1 stitch in every 5th row. Knit 8 rows. Decrease 4
+times in every 4th row. Decrease 8 times, 1 stitch in every 2nd row;
+twice, 1 in every 4th row. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase 9 times, 1 stitch
+in every 4th row. Decrease 4 times, 1 stitch in every 4th row. Decrease
+3 times, 2 stitches in every 2nd row. Decrease 2 stitches in every row
+until only 5 stitches are left, which are to be cast off.
+
+This is to be knitted with very coarse cotton, wound double, and needles
+No. 16.
+
+For the upper part cast on 11 stitches, with needles No. 8, and coarse
+lambsaEuro(TM)-wool; increase 2 stitches in every row until you have 25
+stitches. Increase 2 stitches in every other row until you have 31, then
+2 stitches in every 3rd row until you have 37. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit
+12 stitches backwards and forwards until long enough for the quarter.
+Cast off 13 stitches and knit the remaining 12 backwards and forwards,
+to correspond with the other side. Sew up the back and fasten in the
+sole on the wrong side.
+
+
+_To increase and decrease in Double Knitting._
+
+In double knitting you cannot very well increase oftener than every 3
+rows, as you do not complete the increase in less than 3 rows. In the
+1st row knit 1 stitch behind wherever you wish to increase; in the 2nd
+row do the same to the stitch adjoining, and in the 3rd row when you
+come to the increase, knit 1 stitch, and pass the next upon another
+needle, bring the thread forward slip a stitch and replace the one from
+the 3rd needle, knit it, and continue the row. You will perceive that
+you cannot increase less than two stitches at once.
+
+Decreasing in double knitting can be done in 2 rows. In the 1st row knit
+2 _knitting_ stitches together passing the farther one over the
+intervening stitch, bring the thread forward and slip 2 stitches
+(instead of 1). In the 2nd row 2 _knitting_ stitches will come together,
+knit them taken together. You cannot decrease less than 2 stitches at
+once.
+
+
+_Double Knitted Soles._
+
+     To wear in the shoes.
+
+Cast on 14 stitches, knit in double knitting 2 rows, increase 2 stitches
+in 3 rows (as directed in the preceding pattern) until you have 24
+stitches. Knit 6 rows, then decrease 2 stitches every 2 rows until you
+have but 10 stitches left. Knit 8 rows. Increase until you have 20
+stitches. Knit 6 rows. Decrease 2 stitches in 2 rows until you have 12
+stitches left, decrease 4 stitches in 2 rows twice and cast off the
+remaining 4 stitches.
+
+
+_LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Boot._
+
+     Four ivory needles and coarse lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required.
+
+Cast 32 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit round 2 stitches plain and 2
+ribbed alternately until it is 4 inches long, then take another coloured
+lambsaEuro(TM)-wool and knit 2 rounds of 2 stitches plain and 2 ribbed, decrease
+in the middle of one needle 1 stitch on each side of a rib for 20 rows;
+knit 3 inches more without decreasing, then 2 inches with the 1st color,
+1 inch with the 2nd, and fasten off by drawing the lambsaEuro(TM)-wool through
+2 stitches at a time and knotting it. Sew up the boot at the bottom.
+
+
+_BabyaEuro(TM)s LambsaEuro(TM)-wool Cap._
+
+Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 3 or 4 rows plain. Knit about 20 turns in
+double knitting; this will make it 14 inches in length and 7 inches in
+depth. Knit 12 turns plain and 10 turns double knitting. Knit 2 or 3
+turns plain knitting, reducing the number of stitches so as to form the
+crown. Fasten it up a little way behind, turn back the first part of
+double knitting, and run a ribbon through it.
+
+
+_BabyaEuro(TM)s Hat._
+
+     Seven needles No. 16, are required.
+
+Cast 2 stitches on each of 3 needles; knit 2 rounds. Knit 1 round
+increasing at the back of every stitch. Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round
+increasing at the back of every stitch, and 1 round without increase.
+Rib 2 rounds. Knit 1 round increasing 3 stitches on each needle, and 1
+round plain. Rib 2 rounds. Knit and rib 2 rounds alternately, always
+increasing 3 stitches on each needle in the 1st plain knitted round,
+until you can count 7 ribbed welts. Knit 2 rounds and rib 2 rounds
+alternately without increasing any more for 15 welts. Knit round
+increasing 5 times on each needle, knit 1 plain round. Continue to knit
+and rib in the same manner increasing 5 stitches on each needle in the
+1st knitted round until the brim is broad enough, perhaps about 13
+welts, and cast off.
+
+Have the hat made very stiff, and dried on a shape.
+
+
+_BabyaEuro(TM)s Stockings._
+
+     With needles No. 15, and fine lambsaEuro(TM)-wool.
+
+Cast on 25 stitches; knit a row, increase a stitch at the end. Knit 3
+rows increasing at the end of each. After this increase, at the end of
+every other row only, until there are 36 stitches on the needle. Take
+off 14 stitches on a 3rd needle and knit the 22 that are left (beginning
+at the _sloping_ side) backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
+cast on 14 stitches and make this side like the other by decreasing.
+When this is done, put the 14 stitches on the needle again, take up 10
+stitches in the middle and 14 at the side, knit 4 rows. Knit 2 stitches,
+increase a stitch, knit the rest increasing again in the last stitch but
+two. Knit 4 plain rows. Increase as before; continue to knit 4 plain
+rows and to increase 2 stitches in the 5th until there are 50 stitches.
+Knit 4 rows and decrease every 5th until there are 40. Purl and knit
+every alternate 2 stitches for 14 rows; finish with 4 plain rows. When
+knitted, the stocking must be sewn up and a ribbon run through it to tie
+it round the ankle.
+
+
+_BabyaEuro(TM)s Gaiters._
+
+Cast on 18 stitches; knit a row; knit a row increasing a stitch at the
+end; knit a row. Knit a row increasing 1 stitch at the end. A plain row.
+Increase every other row until there are 30 stitches on the needle. Knit
+18 beginning from the sloping side, (take off the remaining 12 on a
+third needle,) knit backwards and forwards until there are 10 ridges,
+cast on 12 stitches and decrease in the same proportion as you increased
+to make the sides match. When the foot is finished, take the 12 stitches
+from the 3rd needle, take up 10 stitches in the middle and 12 on the
+side and knit the _legging_ as in the last pattern. Sew it up and bind
+the foot with white ribbon.
+
+
+_BabyaEuro(TM)s Spencer._
+
+     Needles No. 14.
+
+Cast on 12 stitches, knit 8 rows, counting the casting on row as one. In
+the 8th row make 2 holes, (1 near the straight side and one in the
+middle of the row) by bringing the wool forward and knitting 2 stitches
+together. Increase a stitch at the end of this row and every 4th row
+afterwards, until you have 22 stitches. Knit 8 rows, at the end of the
+8th row decrease a stitch; knit 4 rows and decrease again at the end of
+the 4th; after this, decrease every other row until there are only 14
+stitches: knit a row and cast off. This is one side of the back; make
+the other to match it.
+
+The front. Cast on 64 stitches, knit 16 rows, making holes in the 8th
+row as before directed, then increase by making 2 stitches in 1 six
+times every other row, about 14 stitches from the beginning and end of
+the row. Knit a row. Knit 6 stitches backwards and forwards decreasing a
+stitch every other row (with the needle on which the other stitches are)
+until only 2 are left; cast them off: if the wool be left loose it need
+not be broken off. Knit the stitches on the needle and make the other
+end like that which is finished. Knit 28 rows, gradually decreasing
+until only 36 stitches are left; then knit 12 stitches backwards and
+forwards for 24 rows, cast off the 12 stitches and repeat the same at
+the other end of the row. Sew on the backs, take up the stitches down
+the back, knit 6 rows and cast off. On one side leave holes for the
+buttonholes. Take up the stitches round the neck, knit 4 rows, make
+holes for the string, knit 4 rows and cast off.
+
+The sleeve. Cast on 16 stitches. Increase gradually until you think it
+wide enough; decrease towards the wrist, knit and rib 2 stitches
+alternately for about an inch, and finish with 4 plain rows.
+
+
+_BabyaEuro(TM)s Stays._
+
+     To be knitted in soft cotton or fine lambsaEuro(TM)-wool. Needles No. 15.
+
+Cast on 204 stitches. The 6 _first_ and _last_ stitches are knitted
+every row: knit and rib the rest, knitting 6 stitches then ribbing 6.
+Knit 60 rows, ribbing those stitches in 1 row which were knitted in the
+last. After 60 rows have been done, knit and rib 60 stitches, and,
+instead of finishing the row, turn back and cast off 6 stitches, knit
+and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row
+(consisting of 54 stitches), rib and knit it. Knit and rib the next row.
+Decrease at the beginning coming back. Repeat the last 4 rows. Then cast
+off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1 stitch, rib and knit
+the others. Cast off 12 stitches, knit and rib the rest. Decrease 1
+stitch, knit and rib the rest. Cast off 6 stitches, rib and knit the
+rest. Knit and rib the row. Cast off 6 stitches, knit and cast off the
+12 remaining. One side of the back is now finished. Begin to knit with
+the stitch next to the last of the 6 cast off under the arm. Knit and
+rib 90 stitches, turn back and cast off 6, knit and rib the rest.
+Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of every row until 76 stitches only
+are left. Decrease 1, rib 6, knit 6, rib 6, knit 6. Cast off 24, rib and
+knit the remainder. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, knit
+and rib the rest. Decrease 1, rib and knit the rest. Cast off 6, rib and
+knit the rest. Rib and knit 12, cast off 6. Knit these 6 stitches
+backwards and forwards for the shoulder strap. Make the other side of
+the front and back to match, bind the stays with ribbon, and sew on
+strings.
+
+
+_BabyaEuro(TM)s Sock._
+
+     To appear like a shoe and stocking. Eight steel needles, 4 No. 14,
+     and 4 No. 20, and fine German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool are required.
+
+Cast 14 stitches on one of the coarse needles, with double lambsaEuro(TM)-wool,
+knit 14 turns, loop 12 stitches on the same needle, 28 on the second and
+12 on the third, and pick up the 14 loops on the cast on side of the
+piece of knitting; you will now have 80 stitches in all on the needles.
+Knit 6 _turns_, decrease 1 stitch at the end of each row until you have
+only 70 stitches. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle of the row, knitting
+1 plain stitch between; continue thus decreasing 2 stitches for the heel
+in the centre of every row, and one at the end for the toe, until you
+have 60 stitches left. Decrease 2 stitches in the middle, divide the
+stitches in halves, 29 on each needle, and join it by knitting the two
+rows together ending at the toe. Pick up 14 loops on the instep, and 56
+round the top of the shoe, with a different color knit one _round_ and
+cast off; this is to look like the binding, and completes the shoe.
+
+For the stocking use the fine needles and single wool. Take up 14
+stitches on the instep, behind the chain stitch (or coloured binding).
+Knit 1 plain row taking up a stitch from the side and knitting that and
+the last stitch together. Purl 1 row knitting the last stitch and a side
+stitch together. Knit the next row, bringing the wool before the needle
+every stitch and knitting 2 stitches taken together. Knit these last 2
+rows alternately until you have 12 rows of holes, remembering to take up
+a stitch at the side and knit it with the last stitch. Then take up 34
+stitches round the shoe, behind the chain stitch, continue the pattern
+as on the instep, when you have 12 rows of holes above the binding, knit
+1 plain round adding a stitch after every third stitch, making in all
+64 stitches, knit 12 rounds of knitting, and purling 2 stitches
+alternately. Cast off. Make a small rosette of ribbon, and sew it in
+front of the shoe.
+
+
+_Netted Curtain._
+
+     For a French Bed.
+
+With a mesh 1 inch wide net 130 stitches. 195 rows will complete the
+curtain.
+
+
+_Moorish Brioche or Cushion._
+
+     Choose any number of colored wools, or if preferred, two that
+     contrast well. Two needles, No. 12.
+
+Cast on 60 stitches, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, (by
+this you increase by a loop stitch,) bring the wool forward, slip a
+stitch, knit 1; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. 2nd row:
+bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop made last row with
+the next stitch, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit the loop
+and stitch together; repeat these stitches to the end of the row. Knit 6
+more rows in the same manner, the stitch is the same throughout. Fasten
+on the 2nd color, bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring
+the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Now instead of continuing the
+row, turn back. Bring the wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1, bring the
+wool forward, slip a stitch, knit 1. Continue to increase the number you
+slip and knit by 4 every time, until all the 60 have been knitted. Knit
+8 rows of the 1st color, and proceed as before. Twelve of these
+divisions will make the cushion large enough. Sew it up at the side. Net
+a fringe with double coarse lambsaEuro(TM)-wool to the narrow part, and run in a
+string to tie it tightly together under the fringe. Make a round
+cushion, and cover it with the knitting.
+
+
+_A Blanket._
+
+     Two very coarse wooden needles and wool proportionably coarse.
+
+Cast on 30 stitches; knit a few plain rows for the edge; then begin with
+the wool forward, slip 1 stitch taking it under so as not to twist it,
+knit 1 stitch, repeat these 2 stitches to the end of the row, and you
+will find you have increased 15 stitches; repeat this row with this only
+difference, that in future you knit the loop and stitch under it
+together.
+
+These strips done in squares of different colors are very pretty.
+
+
+_Blanket in strips._
+
+     Needles and wool the same as for the preceding pattern.
+
+Cast on 32 stitches, knit 7 rows common knitting; then begin double
+knitting,[106-*] knitting 4 stitches plain on each side for a border,
+knit about 24 rows, knit 8 rows plain and then double knitting again;
+continue these squares until the piece is long enough. It is very pretty
+if the squares are done in different colors.
+
+     [106-*] See Contents--Double Knitting. For a blanket it is better
+     to put the wool twice round the needle in the knitted stitches.
+
+
+_Netted Lace._
+
+     Begin on a straight foundation with a mesh No. 16. Of course the
+     number of stitches will depend on the length that is wished for.
+     216 will make about a yard.
+
+Net 24 plain rows. Take a mesh 1/4 of an inch wide, or a trifle wider,
+net 3 stitches in the 1st stitch, pass 2 stitches, net 5 stitches in the
+next, pass 2, and net 5 stitches in every 3rd stitch to the end of the
+row. Take the small mesh and net every stitch you have increased as a
+single stitch, and finish with another row on the small mesh.
+
+
+_Puff Netting._
+
+     Very pretty for caps.
+
+Begin your netting on a foundation that will divide by 10. Net 9
+stitches, net 9 stitches in the 10th; repeat to the end of the row. Net
+3 rows, 1 stitch in _every_ stitch. In the next row (which will make the
+5th from the increase), take the first 9 stitches as 1 stitch, net the
+following 9 stitches, repeat to the end of the row. Begin again.
+
+
+_A Cool Night-cap._
+
+     Puff netting.
+
+     The mesh to be 1/4 inch wide.
+
+Begin on a round foundation of 71 stitches; net 3 plain rounds. In the
+4th round, net 5 stitches, net 5 stitches in the 6th stitch; repeat this
+all round. Net 2 rounds, netting one stitch in _every_ stitch. In the
+next round take the 5 plain stitches as _one_, net 5 stitches, repeat
+all round. Begin again with the 4th round (increasing 5 stitches after
+the decrease). When the cap is deep enough net one round putting the
+cotton twice round the mesh; run a ribbon in at the top and bottom, and
+tie the top string tight.
+
+
+_Suspenders._
+
+     Two needles No. 16.
+
+Cast on 18 stitches, and knit about 6 rows in double knitting with the
+thread once round the needle, knit 9 stitches, take off the other 9 on
+another needle, and knit the first 9 backwards and forwards until it is
+long enough for a button-hole; take back the cotton and knit up the
+other 9 until both are even, (the loop which is left from carrying the
+thread down can be sewn in afterwards); knit 6 more rows double
+knitting, and 2 rows double knitting with the thread twice round the
+needle. Knit 1 row of plain knitting, increasing 1 stitch in every 2,
+which will make in all 27. Then in the front row; knit the 2nd stitch
+first, drawing it over the 1st, knit the 1st, knit the 4th and 3rd, 6th
+and 5th, and repeat the same to the end, which will be 1 knitted stitch.
+Back row; purl the 1st stitch, taking 2 stitches together as if you were
+going to decrease, but pick up again the stitch nearest to the right
+hand and purl it: repeat this to the last stitch, which is to be purled.
+Repeat these 2 rows until you think it long enough, then begin double
+knitting, decrease to 18 stitches again, knit about 2 inches and finish
+in a point.
+
+These suspenders are firmer and less elastic than those given in the
+first series.
+
+
+_Parisian Net Knitting._
+
+     This pattern is very pretty for a foot-muff, blanket, or sofa
+     guard.
+
+     Take German lambsaEuro(TM)-wool of two colors that contrast well; pink and
+     white form a pretty mixture.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches, and with the white wool knit several
+rows before beginning the pattern. 1st row; fasten on the pink wool
+forward, knit the first stitch with the white wool, pass the pink round
+the needle bringing it forward again, and purl the next stitch with it;
+pass the purled stitch on to the left-hand needle and knit it with the
+white wool, knit 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round the
+needle, purl 1 stitch and pass it back on to the left-hand needle, knit
+it and the following stitch with the white wool; continue the same to
+the end of the row. 2nd row; purl the white stitches with the white
+wool, and slip the pink loops, taking care not to twist them or change
+the side which is forward. 3rd row; knit the white stitches with the
+white wool and slip the pink loops. 4th row; purl the 1st stitch with
+the white wool, turn the pink wool (which is now behind) round the
+needle, and with it knit the pink loop and following white stitch taken
+together, slip the stitch on to the left hand needle and purl it with
+the white wool, purl 1 stitch with the white, pass the pink wool round
+the needle, and knit with it the pink loop and following stitch taken
+together, slip it on to the other needle and purl it with the white
+wool, repeat the same to the end. 5th row; knit all the white stitches
+with the white wool and slip the pink loops. 6th row; purl the white
+stitches with the white wool and slip the pink. 7th row; knit 1 stitch
+with the white wool, pass the pink wool (which is forward) round the
+needle and with it purl the pink loop and following white stitch taken
+together, observing to take the pink loop by the under side, slip the
+stitch on to the left hand needle and knit it and the following white
+stitch with the white wool; repeat the same to the end of the row: as
+the 7th row takes the place of the 1st, continue with the 2nd row.
+
+
+_Diamond Knitting._
+
+Cast on 14 stitches for each pattern. 1st round: knit 12 stitches, knit
+2 taken together, and bring the cotton forward; repeat the same. 2nd
+round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 9, knit 2 taken together and
+bring the cotton forward, knit 1 and bring the cotton forward again. 3rd
+round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 7, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the cotton forward, knit 3, and bring the cotton forward again.
+4th round: knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 5, knit 2 taken
+together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, and bring the cotton forward
+again. 5th round: knit 2 taken together, knit 3, knit 2 taken together,
+bring the cotton forward, knit 7, bring the cotton forward. 6th round:
+knit 2 stitches taken together, knit 1, knit 2 taken together, bring
+the cotton forward, knit 9, bring the cotton forward. 7th round: knit 3
+taken together, bring the cotton forward, knit 5, bring the cotton
+forward, knit 2 taken together, knit 4, bring the cotton forward. Begin
+again.
+
+
+_Four Patterns, for DaEuro(TM)Oyleys, Toilet Covers, BabyaEuro(TM)s Quilts, or Basket
+Napkins._
+
+     Two needles, No. 22 or 23, and very fine knitting cotton.
+
+
+No. 1.
+
+Cast on a number of stitches that will divide into an even number of
+threes. _Knit and rib_ 3 stitches alternately for 3 rounds. In the next
+3 rounds, _rib and knit_ 3 stitches alternately.
+
+
+No. 2.
+
+Cast on a number of stitches as for the last pattern. Knit and rib 3
+stitches alternately for 2 rows. The following rows begin so as to bring
+the first ribbed stitch over the last knitted: this is to make the
+ribbed and knitted ridges go in diagonal stripes.
+
+
+No. 3.
+
+Cast on a number of stitches that will divide by 10. Knit 1 stitch, rib
+9, repeat the same to the end of the row. 2nd row: rib 1 stitch, knit 7,
+rib 2. 3rd row: knit 3, rib 5, knit 2. 4th row: rib 3, knit 3, rib 4.
+5th row: knit 5, rib 1, knit 4. 6th row: knit 4, rib 1, knit 5. 7th row:
+rib 4, knit 3, rib 3. 8th row: knit 2, rib 5, knit 3. 9th row: rib 2,
+knit 7, rib 1. 10th row: rib 9, knit 1. Begin again.
+
+
+No. 4.
+
+Cast on an even number of stitches. 1st row: knit every stitch with the
+cotton twice round the needle. 2nd row: begin by dropping one twist of
+the 1st stitch, knit the rest of this stitch with the 1st twist of the
+next, taking them together; finish the row, knitting 2 threads taken
+together, knit the last stitch. Begin again.
+
+
+_Mazaniello Cap._
+
+     Four Needles,
+     And Wool of two colors which contrast well.
+
+Cast on 30 stitches. 1st row is purled. 2nd row, slip the 1st stitch and
+knit the row taking two stitches together to the last stitch which knit.
+3rd row; slip the 1st stitch, purl the next, raise a loop between this
+stitch and the next and purl it, repeat these 2 stitches to the end. 4th
+row; knit plain. These 4 rows form one stripe of diamonds. Take the
+second colored wool and purl 1 row, repeat the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th rows.
+Repeat these 8 rows until you have 15 stripes of diamonds in each
+colour: Cast off.
+
+Pick up 60 stitches on the side of the piece you have been knitting;
+(i. e. 2 in each stripe of diamonds). Take first the 2nd color and
+afterwards the 1st, and repeat the 4 rows as given above, until you have
+7 stripes of one color and 6 of the other. Cast off loosely. This piece,
+when the cap is finished is _wrong side_ outwards as it is to be turned
+up all round.
+
+To finish the crown, pick up 60 stitches on 3 needles and with the 2nd
+color repeat the pattern, observing that its right side must be the
+right side of the cap, (consequently the wrong side of the piece at the
+bottom). In the 4th round reduce 1 stitch in every 4. Repeat the pattern
+with the 1st colors. In the 4th round, knit 2, knit 2 taken together,
+repeat to the end of the round. In the 4th round of the 3rd round of
+diamonds reduce every other stitch. In the 4th round of the 4th round
+of diamonds, thread a worsted needle with the wool and pass it through
+all the stitches, draw them up tight and fasten off.
+
+The cap may be finished with a cord and tassel to match in colors, or
+with a tassel only.
+
+
+_Muff, in Spots or Stars._
+
+     Two wooden needles, No. 10, and for a small muff 1 ounce of blue
+     and 1 ounce of black fleecy. Double that quantity for a large size.
+
+For a small muff cast on 60 stitches, for a large one 84. The number
+must divide into 3 equal numbers. Cast on the stitches with the black
+wool, purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward and knit 2 stitches
+taken together, (every 2nd row with the black wool must begin like this)
+bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches pull the first over the 2 last,
+repeat these 3 stitches to the end, when you will find you have one
+stitch left, bring the wool forward and knit it. Join on the blue wool
+and purl 1 row. 2nd row; bring the wool forward, knit 2 taken together,
+knit 2 stitches and pull the stitch in which you decreased over them,
+(every 2nd blue row begins thus) bring the wool forward, knit 3 stitches
+pull the 1st over the 2 last, repeat these 3 stitches to the end of the
+row. Use the black wool and repeat the whole. For a small muff do 21
+stripes of each color, for a large one 42. Cast off.
+
+To make up a small muff you must buy 5-8ths of gros-de-naples, 1-1/2 oz.
+of fine carded wool and 1 oz. of fine horse-hair. Double the silk in
+halves and place on it 1 layer of wool. 1 layer of horse-hair and a
+second layer of wool. Quilt these to one-half of the silk and fold the
+other half over, and sew it to the knitted cover; turn the muff inside
+out and sew up first the knitted part and then the silk. Finish the muff
+at the edges by a cord or a quilling of ribbon.
+
+
+_Another Muff._
+
+     Two needles No. 10 and 3 skeins of coarse fleecy.
+
+Cast on sixty stitches. Knit 1 row; rib 1 row; knit 1 row taking 2
+stitches together all the way. 4th row; knit 1 stitch, pick up and knit
+a loop between the stitches, continue the same to the end of the row. As
+by this you would lose 1 stitch, this must be prevented by picking up
+and knitting a loop alternately, before beginning or at the end of every
+4th row.
+
+Make up the muff like the preceding pattern.
+
+
+
+
+TERMS USED IN KNITTING.
+
+
+  _A turn_ means two rows.
+
+  _To turn_ means to change from plain to purled stitches, or the
+    reverse.
+
+  _A ridge_ is formed by two rows when knitting with only two pins.
+
+  _A loop stitch_ is formed by passing the thread before the needle,
+    and, in _knitting_ the next stitch, letting it take its usual place.
+
+  _To increase in knitting a Quilt_, care should always be taken to
+    increase by knitting twice through the last stitch, which is done by
+    knitting a stitch, and then, without taking out the needle, knitting
+    a second at the back.
+
+  _To fasten on in knitting._ It is a secure fastening to lay the two
+    ends contrary-wise to each other, and knit a few stitches with them
+    both.
+
+  _To narrow_ or _decrease_ is to make small, to lessen, as in shaping a
+    stocking.
+
+  _Ribbed stitch_, _purl stitch_, _turned_, or _seam stitch_, are all
+    terms having the same meaning. A turned stitch is made by bringing
+    the cotton before the needle, and instead of putting the needle over
+    the upper cotton, it is put under.
+
+  _To slip_, _take off_, or _pass a stitch_, is to change it from one
+    needle to another without knitting it.
+
+  _To take under_, means to pass the right hand needle through the
+    stitch on the left hand one, so as still to keep the same side of
+    the stitch towards you.
+
+  _Welts_ are the rounds of ribbed stitches done at the top of
+    stockings, to prevent their rolling up.
+
+  _Cast off_ means to end your work in the following manner: knit 2
+    stitches, pass the first over the second, and continue the same
+    until you have but one left, which is finished by passing your
+    cotton through it.
+
+  _To decrease_ is to lessen the number of stitches by knitting 2 taken
+    together.
+
+  _To increase_, or _make a double stitch_, is to knit one stitch in the
+    usual way, then, without slipping out the left hand needle, to pass
+    the thread forward and knit a second stitch, putting the needle
+    under the stitch. The thread must be put back when the stitch is
+    finished.
+
+  _Hang on_, means cast on.
+
+  _Bring the thread forward_, means to pass it between the needles
+    towards you.
+
+  _Cast over_ is a term I believe sometimes used by knitters, to
+    signify, bring the cotton forward. I have only used it to express,
+    bring the cotton over the needle, quite round.
+
+  _Round the needle_, means the same as the last term.
+
+  _Reversed_, means quite round the needle, the cotton being passed
+    _over_ the needle, and then carried back to its place.
+
+  _Together_, means knit 2 stitches in 1.
+
+  _Set_, or _Tuft_, the bunches of cotton used in making some of the
+    Fringes.
+
+  _To widen_ means to increase.
+
+The netting meshes are numbered from the knitting needle gauge, as I am
+not aware there is any other rule for them.
+
+
+
+
+  =PUBLIC=
+  SUBSCRIPTION LIBRARY,
+  BELGRAVE SQUARE.
+
+  To this Library every New Work of Interest is
+  added on the day of Publication.
+
+  TERMS:
+
+  Twelve months      AL5  5 0
+  Six months          3  3 0
+  Three months        1 16 0
+
+  CARD PLATES ENGRAVED & PRINTED.
+
+  STATIONERY, &c.
+
+  =Agent for the Early Supply of Newspapers.=
+
+  JOHN MILAND,
+  _Chapel Street, Belgrave Square._
+
+
+
+
+TranscriberaEuro(TM)s Note
+
+
+The following typographical errors were corrected:
+
+  Page   Error
+    ii  Chequed changed to Chequered
+     7  long enough. changed to long enough,
+    12  mesh, In changed to mesh. In
+    50  next round. by changed to next round by
+    69  the 9th, changed to the 9th.
+    73  86 stiches; changed to 86 stitches
+    82  and go on, changed to and go on.
+   110  sofa guard. changed to sofa guard,
+   122  needle guage changed to needle gauge
+
+The following words were inconsistently spelled:
+
+  DaEuro(TM)Oyleys / Doyleys
+  Honey-comb / Honeycomb
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Knitting and Netting Book, by
+Miss Watts
+
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