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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/33323-8.txt b/33323-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac2fd28 --- /dev/null +++ b/33323-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5100 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Small Gardens, by Violet Purton Biddle + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Small Gardens + and How to Make the Most of Them + +Author: Violet Purton Biddle + +Release Date: August 2, 2010 [EBook #33323] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SMALL GARDENS *** + + + + +Produced by David Clarke and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + + + + + +Small Gardens and How to Make the Most of Them + + + + +SPECIAL NOTICE. + +SEEDS + +IF YOU WANT REALLY GOOD BULBS & SEEDS AT MODERATE PRICES, SEND TO + + Mr. ROBERT SYDENHAM, + 44, Tenby Street, Birmingham. + +No One will serve you Better. + + +HIS UNIQUE LISTS + +Are acknowledged by all to be the Best, Cheapest, and most Reliable +ever published. They contain only the Best VEGETABLES, FLOWERS, AND +BULBS WORTH GROWING. + +Being the Selections of the Largest Seed Growers, Market Gardeners, and +the most celebrated Professional Gardeners and Amateurs in the kingdom. + +They also contain very useful cultural instructions. + +Mr. SYDENHAM'S Bulbs and Seeds were represented and gained First Prizes at +London, Birmingham, Preston, Newcastle-on-Tyne, Shrewsbury, Edinburgh, +etc., etc., in 1893, 1894, 1895, 1896, 1897, 1898, 1899 and 1900. + + +SWEET PEAS A SPECIALITY. + +No Flowers give so much cut bloom at so little cost and trouble if treated +as instructions sent with each collection. + +12 good varieties, 50 seeds of each, 1s. 6d.; 12 choice varieties, 50 +seeds of each, 2s.; or the Two Collections for 2s. 6d.; a Third Collection +of the 12 best varieties for Exhibition, 3s.; or the Three Collections, +5s., post free, with a packet each of the four best striped varieties +added free of charge. Generally sold at twice or three times the money. + + THE BEST TOMATOES, 3d. per packet of 200 Seeds. + THE BEST CUCUMBERS, 6d. per packet of 10 Seeds. + ALL OTHER SEEDS equally cheap and good. + +FULL LISTS POST FREE ON APPLICATION. + + + + +=PUT IT ON TOP= of your Fowlhouse, Tool or Bicycle Shed, or anything in +the shape of a shed that you are building. Ask your ironmonger for our +handy booklet, which will help you considerably with useful hints on +building all kinds of structures, and roofing them with =RED HAND ROOFING +FELT= + +If your ironmonger has not got it, you can get it free, and name of +nearest holder, from D. ANDERSON & SON, LD., LAGAN WORKS, BELFAST. + + + + +SPECIAL NOTICE. + +LAXTON'S GRAND NEW LARGE-FRUITED, EARLY STRAWBERRY FOR 1901. + + +The "Laxton," THE IDEAL AMATEURS' AND MARKET GROWERS' FRUIT. + +The Fruit that everyone must Grow! + +_A DARKER, FIRMER, AND IMPROVED "ROYAL SOVEREIGN."_ + +We believe this to be by far the =finest= of our many introductions, and +in it we claim to have combined all the good points of those two fine +varieties from which it was raised, viz, "Royal Sovereign" and "Sir J. +Paxton," and believe it to be the most wonderful Strawberry for earliness, +size, firmness, quality, hardiness, and vigour of plant combined. + + +=The following are some of its good points--= + +=Earliness.=--In earliness it is as early as "Royal Sovereign." + +=Size.=--In size it is as large as, if not larger than, "Sovereign," and +certainly larger than "Sir J. Paxton." + +=Colour.=--But in colour it is much =darker and brighter= than +"Sovereign," partaking of the rich colour and taking appearance of "Sir J. +Paxton." + +=Flavour.=--In flavour it is quite as rich as "Royal Sovereign." + +=Firmness.=--It is also =much firmer= than "Sovereign," does not rot on +the ground in damp weather, and is a far better traveller. + +=Cropping Qualities.=--Its cropping qualities are prodigious, heavier than +either "Sovereign" or "Paxton," throwing its bold tresses well above the +foliage. + +=Constitution.=--A very hardy and vigorous grower, retaining its foliage +well in winter. + +=Fast Selling Out for 1901.=--The demand for this variety has been already +very large, and as the stock is small and is fast selling out, we must ask +for early orders or we shall be unable to execute until 1902. =PLANTS IN +POTS ONLY SUPPLIED.= + +=PRICE 18s. per doz.; £5 per 100.= + +(Not less than 1/2 at the doz. and 100 rates.) As the demand is very +great, and the stock limited, the price cannot be much lower for several +years. A Handsome Coloured Plate, and full descriptive Catalogue published +shortly. + +Free on application. + + +LAXTON BROTHERS, Strawberry Plant Growers and Specialists, BEDFORD. + + + + +SMALL GARDENS + + + + +[Illustration] + +Green's Lawn Mowers + +Imitated by Many! Equalled by None! Over 270,000 Sold! + +[Illustration] + +GREEN'S GARDEN ROLLERS ARE UNSURPASSED! + +Known and appreciated throughout the World. + +[Illustration] + + + THOS. GREEN & SON, Ltd., + Blackfriars Road, LONDON, S.E., and LEEDS. + +_Please write for List, S. G., 1901. May be had from Local Ironmongers and +Seedsmen._ + + + + + Small Gardens and How to make the most of them + + + By Violet Purton Biddle + + + London + C. Arthur Pearson Ltd. + Henrietta Street + W.C. + + + + +[Sidenote: Patent Coil Stake] + +NOTICE. + + DON'T STAKE YOUR CARNATIONS + TILL YOU HAVE SEEN THE + Patent Improved Coil Stake. + +No Tying required. Stakes last a Lifetime. The Greatest Boon ever +offered to Growers. Only wants seeing. + +_Prices (Cash with Order)_:-- + + 20in., = 7/6= per 100, =1/-= per doz. + 25in., =10/6= " =1/6= " + 30in., =13/6= " =2/-= " + 36in., stouter, =17/6= per 100, =2/6= per doz. + +=A. PORTER=, Stone House, =MAIDSTONE=. + + +[Sidenote: Fruit Trees, Shrubs, Seeds, etc.] + + +THE FINEST APPLE ON EARTH IS UNDOUBTEDLY BRAMLEY'S SEEDLING, Unequalled +for Productiveness and Quality. + +ALL KINDS OF FRUIT TREES ON OFFER TO SUIT EVERY PLANTER. + +THE ROSE (the Queen of Flowers), All new varieties stocked. + +FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS A SPECIALITY. + +My Flower and Vegetable Seeds cannot be excelled. + +Send for my lists which contain valuable remarks on Profitable Fruit +Growing. Free on application to-- + +Henry Merryweather, The Nurseries, Southwell, Notts. + + +[Sidenote: Garden Netting] + +TANNED GARDEN NETTING. + +Protect your Strawberry Beds, Seeds, &c., from the ravages of birds. + +NETS OILED AND DRESSED; 36 SQUARE YARDS FOR 1/-. + +Can be sent any width or length; carriage paid on orders over 6s. + +HENRY ROBINSON, GARDEN NET WORKS, RYE, SUSSEX. + + +[Sidenote: Plants for Small Gardens] + +SMALL GARDENS AND HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF THEM + +(_COUNTRY OR SUBURBAN_). + +=Send a small Rough Plan of your Garden=, showing points of the compass, +and stating whether in town, country, or suburb, to Mr. WOOD, and he will +give you a list of PLANTS sufficient and suitable for the different +positions. Communication in regard to _Rockeries_ and _Rock Plants_ is +specially invited. List of + + ALPINES, Hardy HERBACEOUS PLANTS and AQUATICS + on application to + J. WOOD, Woodville, Kirkstall, LEEDS. + + + + +SYNOPSIS OF CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I + +=The General Arrangement of the Garden= + +_What to go in for, and what to avoid--Brick walls--Trees, their +advantages and disadvantages, etc._ + + +CHAPTER II + +=Lawns, Paths, Beds, and Border= + +_How to keep the lawns level--Paths, and how to lay them--Beds and +bedding--The new style VERSUS the old--Flower borders and their +backgrounds--Improvement of the soil._ + + +CHAPTER III + +=On the Duty of Making Experiments= + +_Description of a small yet lovely garden--Colour schemes--A novel way of +growing flowers, the spring dell--Variety in the flower-garden._ + + +CHAPTER IV + +=Some Neglected but Handsome Plants= + +_The sweet old columbine--BOCCONIA CORDATA at Hampton Court--CAMPANULAS +as continuous bloomers--The heavenly larkspurs--Christmas roses--The tall +and brilliant lobelias--Chinese-lantern plants--Tufted pansies._ + + +CHAPTER V + +=The Conservatory and Greenhouse= + +_Mistakes in staging--Some suitable climbers--Economical heating--Aspect, +shading, etc.--The storing of plants--No waste space--Frames._ + + +CHAPTER VI + +=The Tool Shed and Summer-House= + +_Spades and the Bishop--Weeding a pleasure--Trusty thermometers-- +Summer-houses and their adornment._ + + +CHAPTER VII + +=Roses for Amateurs= + +_Teas--Hybrid perpetuals--Bourbons--Rose-hedges--Pillar roses--Suitable +soil._ + + +CHAPTER VIII + +=Enemies of the Garden= + +_Slugs, and how to trap them--Blight or green fly--Earwigs--Wireworms-- +Snails--Mice--Friends or Foes?_ + + +CHAPTER IX + +=The Rockery= + +_A few hints on its construction--Aspect and soil--A list of alpines-- +Other suitable plants._ + + +CHAPTER X + +=Trees, and How to Treat Them--Shrubs= + +_Some good plants for growing beneath trees--List of hardy shrubs-- +Climbers--Enriching the soil._ + + +CHAPTER XI + +=The Ins and Outs of Gardening= + +_Planting--Watering--"Puddling"--Shelter--Youth and age, in relation to +plants--Catalogue defects--A time for everything._ + + +CHAPTER XII + +=The Profitable Portion= + +_Fruit, best kinds for small gardens--Size minus flavour--Vegetables-- +Herbs._ + + +CHAPTER XIII + +=Annuals and Biennials= + +_Why they fail--Table of good annuals--Table of biennials._ + + +CHAPTER XIV + +=Window-Boxes= + +_How to make them--Relation of box to residence they are intended to +adorn--Suitable soil--Window-plants for different aspects._ + + +CHAPTER XV + +=Table Decoration= + +_Graceful arrangement--Thick-skinned stems--Preserving and resuscitating +flowers--Colour schemes--Table of flowers in season._ + + +CHAPTER XVI + +=The Propagation of Plants= + +_By division--By cuttings--By seeds--By layers._ + + +CHAPTER XVII + +=The Management of Room Plants= + +_Best kinds for "roughing it"--Importance of cleanliness--The proper way +of watering them._ + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +=Various Hints= + +_Artificial manures--Labelling--Cutting off dead flowers--Buying +plants--Tidiness in the garden, etc._ + + + + +TERMS USED BY GARDENERS + + +=Mulching=--Term used for applying manure in a thick layer round the roots +of shrubs, as a protection from frost. + +=Pricking off=--Transplanting seedlings into separate pots. + +="Eyes"=--Incipient leaf-buds. + +="Heel"=--The hardened part of a cutting, formed where it is joined to the +original plant. + +=Annual=--Lasting one year. + +=Biennial=--Lasting two years. + +=Perennial=--Lasting several years. + +=Herbaceous=--Term applied to plants which die down completely every +winter. + +=Deciduous=--Not ever-green; this term is applied to trees the leaves of +which fall off every autumn. + +=Suckers=--Shoots that spring up from the common stock, as distinct from +those which belong to the engrafted portion. + +=Pegging down=--Bending branches down close to the ground, and securing +them with a peg. + +=Runners=--Separate little plants, issuing from the parent, and ultimately +rooting for themselves. + +=Spit=--A spade's depth. + +="Strike"=--A term applied to cuttings making roots. + +=Pinching out=--Rubbing off undesirable shoots. + +="Blind"=--A term applied to plants which turn out flowerless. + +=Heeling in=--The process of temporarily covering plants with soil, till +the weather is suitable for setting them out in their permanent quarters. + +=Carpet-bedding=--The geometrical arrangement of plants. + + + + +_All Seeds and Bulbs sent carriage and packing free on receipt of +remittance._ + +BARR'S SEEDS FOR FLOWER & KITCHEN GARDEN OF FINEST SELECTED STRAINS +& TESTED GROWTH + +=The Best Seeds in the World= for securing a supply of Vegetables "the +year round," and for keeping the Flower Garden and Greenhouse always gay, +and with abundance of Flowers to cut for vases and bouquets. + +BARR'S 21/-Collection of Vegetable Seeds + + Contains a liberal assortment of the following useful + Vegetables:--Beans (Broad and French), Beet, Borecoli, Broccoli, + Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Capsicum, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, + Colewort, Corn Salad, Cucumber, Cress, Endive, Herbs, Leek, Lettuce, + Melon, Mustard, Onions, Parsley, Parsnips, Peas, Radish, Salsify, + Savoy Cabbage, Scorzonera, Spinach, Tomato, Turnip, and Vegetable + Marrow. + +Other Collections of =Barr's Superior Vegetable Seeds=:--=5/6=, =7/6=, +=12/6=, =42/-=, =63/-=, and =105/-=. Full particulars sent on application. + + +BARR'S CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS + +=BARR'S SEED GUIDE= contains a Select List of all the most beautiful +Annuals and Perennials. Special Collections for all purposes and many +Sterling Novelties. + + =12= Packets of the Best Hardy Annuals =2/6= + =25= " " " " " =5/6= + =10= " " " " Perennials =2/6= + =25= " " " " " =7/6= + +For Collections of Half-hardy Annuals or Perennials, and Seeds of Plants +for Rockwork, &c., see BARR'S SEED GUIDE, _free on application_. + + +=BARR'S= Seed Guide, containing many useful notes on culture, which will +be found of great value to Gardeners, Amateurs and Exhibitors, free on +application. + +=BARR'S= Catalogue of Hardy Perennials and Alpines, Ready in February, +Free. + +=BARR'S= Catalogue of Bulbs and Tubers for Spring Planting, Ready in +February, Free. + +=BARR'S= List of Autumn-flowering Bulbs, Ready 1st July, Free. + +=BARR'S= Catalogue of Beautiful Daffodils, Ready in August, Free. + +=BARR'S= Catalogue of Bulbs for Garden and Greenhouse, Ready 1st +September, Free. + + + BARR & SONS, + 11, 12 & 13, KING ST., + COVENT GARDEN, LONDON + Nurseries--Long Ditton, Near Surbiton, Surrey. + + + + +[Sidenote: Corpulency and the Cure.] + +"HOW STOUT YOU ARE GETTING." + +There is too often a scarcely veiled reproach in that exclamation: "How +stout you are getting!" At any rate, the corpulent one is generally +sensitive on that point, and perhaps feels a reproach where none is +intended. Certain it is that to lose the _svelte_ symmetry of youth, to +broaden out, to "swell wisibly," as Sam Weller has it, and finally to +become "fat and scant of breath," is a process at once humiliating and +distressing, especially to those who possess that keen appreciation of +personal appearance which is a part of what is termed good breeding. There +is now, however, no excuse for those who have resigned themselves to carry +to the grave the rotund proportions of a Falstaff. The perusal of a little +book entitled "Corpulency and the Cure," by F. CECIL RUSSELL, has afforded +us not a little interest and instruction on a subject that has hitherto +received but superficial attention from the medical profession. Mr. +Russell has made the cure of obesity his life's study, and judging from +the record of his achievements--over a thousand grateful letters from his +patients are printed in the book--he has been singularly successful. The +author's treatment is not by "wasting." There is no "sweating"; there are +no stringent restrictions as to eating and drinking; no drastic conditions +of any kind. The medicine prescribed is simple and pleasant, purely +vegetable, and perfectly harmless. + +Its action is two-fold; it reduces the abundant fatty tissue at a very +rapid rate--in some cases to the extent of over 1lb. or 2lbs. in +twenty-four hours--usually from 3lbs. to 4lbs. in a week (sometimes +considerably more), and at the same time it acts as a refreshing and +invigorating tonic, promoting a healthy appetite, and dispelling the +feeling of depression and extreme _malaise_ experienced by the majority of +corpulent people. "Does the fat return after cessation of the treatment?" +is a question that many will ask. No, under normal conditions it does not. + +Mr. Russell's treatment goes to the root of the malady, and, without +having the slightest pernicious effect even on the most delicate persons, +eliminates the cause of the tendency to corpulence. + +"Corpulency and the Cure," a dainty little book of some 256 pages, is now +in its eighteenth edition. We would cordially recommend such of our +readers who are troubled with what we will call, for the sake of euphony, +"exaggerated _embonpoint_," to procure a copy by sending two penny stamps +to Mr. F. C. Russell, Woburn House, Store Street, Bedford Square, London. +This well-known specialist can claim the unique distinction of having +successfully treated over 10,000 cases of obesity. + + A UNIQUE TREATMENT. + + The "Russell" treatment is a marvellously efficacious and radical + cure which is not only not harmful, but extremely vitalising and + strengthening, promoting appetite and aiding digestion, assimilation + and nutrition. Meanwhile the reduction of adipose matter goes + steadily on until normal weight is reached. + + =No Noxious Drugs.= + =No Stringent Dietary.= + =No Drastic Restrictions.= + + + AN UNFAILING TEST. + + The weighing machine will prove that the reduction of fat commences + within 24 hours, the loss of weight varying from 1/2 to 2lb.; even + more than this in severe cases of obesity. The compound forming the + basis of the treatment is purely vegetable, & wholly free from + objectionable ingredients. + + Whilst permanently reducing the body to normal weight and size, the + "Russell" treatment has a wonderfully strengthening & invigorating + effect upon the system. + +Mr. Russell will be pleased to give to all readers suffering from Obesity +a copy of his book, "Corpulency and the Cure," 256 pages. When writing for +the Book, enclose two penny stamps to cover its postage. The Book will be +forwarded in a sealed plain envelope. + + ADDRESS:-- + Woburn House, 27, Store Street, Bedford Square, London, W.C. + + + + +SMALL GARDENS + + + + +CHAPTER I + +The General Arrangement of the Garden + + _What to go in for, and what to avoid--Brick walls--Trees, their + advantages and disadvantages, etc._ + + +It is imperative that =a small garden=, such as one generally finds +attached to suburban or small houses, should be made the very most of. +Frequently, however, its owners seem to think that to attempt to grow +anything in such a little plot of ground is a veritable waste of time and +money, as nothing ever comes of it. The aim of this book is to show that +even the tiniest piece of land can be made pretty and even profitable, if +due attention be given it. + +=WELL BEGUN IS HALF DONE.= To begin with, it is well to remember that the +tenant of a small garden should not endeavour to represent every feature +he sees in large grounds; the poverty-stricken shrubbery and pond just +about large enough for a nice bath, are too often seen, and only call +forth ridicule. Some landscape gardeners have even objected to the +presence of a lawn, where the space at disposal is very limited indeed, +but to my mind =a little turf is always advisable=, for it not onl +entices people into the fresh air for a game, but forms a good foil for +flowering plants, and above all looks so well during the winter. + +=A long narrow garden= is always easier to deal with than a square plot of +land, the range of vision not being "brought up short," as it were. It is +well to take heed of this fact where there is any choice in the matter. +=Good brick walls= are a great help in gardening, though alas! in these +hurried days they are becoming much rarer, the wooden fence being run up +so quickly, and at far less expense. + +As regards =the walks=, it is better to have one path wide enough for two +people abreast than several unsociably narrow ones. Each path should lead +somewhere, to the summer-house, or a gate, for instance: otherwise it +looks inconsequent. + +Besides the flower-garden proper, =a nursery= for making experiments, +sowing seeds, and striking cuttings, should find a place, if possible; a +rubbish-heap is invaluable, too, where all decayed vegetable refuse, +road-scraping, soapsuds, etc., should be thrown. In autumn, all the leaves +the gardener sweeps up should be placed near by, both heaps being +frequently turned over to allow of the noxious gas escaping, and to assist +decomposition. The =rubbish corner= should be at the furthest extremity of +the garden, though it need not be unsightly if a screen is placed around +it. Privet is certainly the quickest growing shrub for that purpose, but, +as it is so common, other shrubs, such as =pyrus japonica=, =arbutus=, +=barberry=, and =pyracantha=, may be used. + +=THE JOYS OF A GREENHOUSE.= If there is no greenhouse, try to obtain one; +it is such an infinite delight all through the dark months of the year, +and this without any great cost for fuel. A Rippingille oil-stove, with +one four-inch wick, will suffice to keep the frost out of a structure +measuring 16 × 10, if a lean-to (that is, attached to a dwelling-house). +Even this expense may be avoided where it is built against a kitchen wall, +though, if the wall happened to face north, only ferns and just a few +flowers would thrive. But even these would form a great interest, +especially to invalids, who often find their greatest pleasure in +pottering about under their "little bit of glass." + +=A VEXED QUESTION.= The vexed question of =lopping one's neighbours' +trees= is sure to crop up sooner or later. However much detriment the +trees may be doing, by preventing the free access of sun and air, tenants +should know that the law only justifies them in cutting down those +branches which actually overhang their own domains. This being the case, +it is often the best "to grin and bear it," and lop the trees as little as +possible, for we must acknowledge that the fine form of a tree is always +spoilt when interfered with to any great extent. If the border would, in +any case be shady, so much the better; it will only require a little more +attention in the matter of watering, etc. After all, shade from the hot +summer sun is absolutely necessary if we would enjoy a garden, therefore +it is always well to hesitate over an act which takes but a few minutes to +do, but may need years to repair. Where the trees overhang a good south or +west wall the matter is more serious; it is then advisable to cut back as +far as possible, for roses, peach-trees, and, indeed, most =climbers +resent the constant drip= they are obliged to endure in wet weather. A +list of plants which do well under trees in various aspects is given in +another chapter. + +=BREAKING UP.= As the eye wearies of the straight piece of lawn with +gravel path and border surrounding it, where practicable the ground should +be broken up a bit. Some wide =trellis-work=, painted dark-green, with an +arch-way on either side, helps to do this, and lends a pleasant sense of +mystery to what might otherwise be a prosaic garden. It should be covered +with all manner of creepers, such as clematis, jasmine, roses in variety, +and some of the hardy annuals. Very tender plants should not be put on a +trellis, as it does not by any means take the place of a wall, being more +draughty than the open ground, though such things as the _ceanothus_ will +often live through several winters, and bloom beautifully every summer in +such a spot, till an unusually hard frost kills them outright. =Mulching=, +however, of which more anon (see Glossary), materially aids in preserving +them. + +=In gardening it is the little things that tell.= A mere trifle often +makes the difference between failure and success. People will hardly +believe, for instance, how important it is that certain plants should only +receive =soft water=, and continue giving the water laid on by the company +when all the time gallons and gallons of =precious rain= from heaven are +running to waste. It is only a question of a tank to preserve it, which +should be in an unobtrusive situation, though easily get-at-able. Where +alpines are concerned, rainwater should be the only beverage, and this +reminds me that a =rockery= on which to grow these gems of other countries +is not such an impossibility in a town garden as might be thought by their +scarcity. + +=HOW NOT TO DO IT.= The rockery, as seen in most gardens, both public and +private, is too often an example of "how not to do it." A heterogeneous +mass of clinkers, planted here and there with ivy, and exposed to the full +force of sun and wind, is not to be named in the same breath with those at +Kew, for instance. Of course, these are not made with bricks at all, but +of soft grey stone, rather difficult to obtain by amateurs. Nevertheless, +the shape and general characteristics may be copied; indeed, a day every +now and then spent in the Royal Gardens at Kew or in any other well +planned gardens, is a liberal education in such matters, and a great help +in laying out a garden to good effect, though, naturally, everything must +be considerably modified. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +Lawn, Paths, Beds, and Border + + _How to keep a lawn level--Paths, how to lay them--Beds and + bedding--The new style versus the old--Flower-borders and their + backgrounds--Improvement of the soil._ + + +=THE AUTOCRAT OF THE GARDEN.= We have spoken of the general arrangement of +the suburban garden, and must now proceed to particularize. First as to +=the lawn=: It might often be described as a thing invented to keep the +journeyman gardener in constant work, for where that individual only comes +for a day or even half a day each week (on which basis this book is +written) he generally seems to occupy his time in rolling, mowing, and +sweeping the grass. An endeavour should a made to curtail this lengthy +business, if it can be done without hurting his very sensitive feelings. +When a boot-boy is kept, he can be set to roll the grass before and after +it is mown, and also assist in the tidying up, thus giving the man leisure +to attend to other matters. Where tennis or more especially croquet is +played, great care should be taken to keep the turf level; =inequalities= +can always be remedied in the winter or early spring. =Fine soil= should +be scattered over each depression where these are only slight, and a +little seed sown about March; but when the turf is very uneven it is a +better plan to lift it, fill up underneath with soil, and re-lay, rolling +well so that it may settle down properly. To keep a lawn even =constant +rolling= is most necessary. Even when the lawn is smooth, it is as well to +some seed in the spring of every year, for there are sure to be weeds to +eradicate, and this is apt to leave bare patches which mar the beauty of +any lawn. During hot, dry summers, water must be regularly applied or the +grass will wither and perhaps die out altogether. =Grassy slopes= +especially should be looked after, as they are the first to show signs of +distress. Where there is no hose, a "spreader" will be found a most useful +adjunct to a water-can, and is quite inexpensive. The knives of a +mowing-machine should not be set too low in warm weather, as =close +cutting= of grass is often responsible for it turning brown. + +The =paths= of a garden can be composed of several substances, gravel +possibly being the best, as it is so easily renewed and kept in order. In +cottage gardens delightful pebble walks with an edging of tiles can be +sometimes seen, but unless plants having a mossy or cushion-like growth +are allowed to fall over the tiles, this arrangement is rather stiff. When +laying gravel down, see that it is of a ="binding" quality=, and laid +fairly thick, as this method is economical in the long run, because it can +be easily turned. The paths must be kept clear of weeds, and, except in +the wild portion, free also of moss, a difficult thing where the growth of +trees is very rank. Picking up the path constantly with a rake and +=scattering common salt= over it, is one way of keeping moss down. It is +important that the centre of a path be higher than the sides, so that it +should =dry quickly after rain=. + +=BEDS AND BEDDING.= As regards the beds in the garden, these are usually +all on the lawn, though =a long raised bed= with a path on either side +looks extremely well if filled with flowers, and can be easily got at on +dewy mornings without wetting the feet. Fantastic shapes are not +advisable, unless =carpet-bedding=[1] is the style aimed at. Rose-trees +look best in round or oblong beds, and do not lend themselves to filling +up stars, though a crescent-shaped bed suits the low-growing kinds very +well. As a rule only one or two different kinds of flowers should be used +in the same bed, and if a good display of blossom is required these must +be frequently changed. =Cuttings a year old= make the best bedding-plants +in a general way, for, though the quantity of bloom may not be quite so +great the habit is more bushy, the individual flower far finer, and the +period of blossoming greatly prolonged. It has been found that many of the +old-fashioned flowers bloom much better if they also are =divided= and +=new soil added=. This is particularly noticeable in such flowers as +_delphiniums_, _campanulas_, and _japonica_ anemones. Once every two or +three years, however, is often enough for these hardy denizens of our +gardens. + + [1] See Glossary, p. 7. + +=MAKING THE MOST OF THE LAND.= A new style of bedding has cropped up +lately, or rather a lesson that Nature has always been teaching us has at +last been taken to heart, for the idea is really as old as the hills. Two +=plants flowering at different seasons= are placed together where formerly +each would have had a separate piece of ground; thus, a tall, autumn phlox +will be seen rearing its panicles of flowers from a carpet of _aubrietia_, +_alyssum_, or forget-me-not, which all flower in spring. In this way each +foot of ground has something to interest us at all seasons of the year. +Lilies have been planted amongst rhododendrons and azaleas for some time +past, and now the system has been extended. When once we have made up our +minds to have =no bare soil=, various schemes will present themselves to +us. Bulbs can be treated so, to the great improvement of the garden, as +when they grow out of some hardy herbaceous plant, their dying leaves +which present such an untidy appearance are nearly hidden. This double +system of planting is especially necessary in beds which are in full view +of the house, as these must never look empty. + +=WANTED--AN EYE FOR COLOUR.= Borders are not so much trouble in this way, +as, if the wall or fence at the back is well covered with a succession of +flowering shrubs, this makes =a very good back-ground=, and, as every +artist knows, that is half the battle. The colours, however, must be +carefully chosen, so that the plants in front blend with the creepers on +the wall. The inconsistency of people in this matter is very noticeable, +for they will mix shades in their borders which they would not dream of +allowing on their dinner-tables. Who has not had his teeth set on edge by +the sight of a pinkish-mauve everlasting pea in juxtaposition with a +flaming red geranium! it is repeated every year in scores of gardens, to +the great offence of every artistic eye. =Colours that quarrel= so +violently with each other should never be visible from the same point of +view, but kept rigorously apart. + +It is important that =the soil of the border= be of fairly good quality; +if the staple be poor and rocky, plenty of loam must be incorporated with +a small proportion of manure. On the other hand, if it is heavy, cold, and +clayey, sand must be added to make it porous, and thus improve the +drainage. Where the soil is not improved, some trouble should be taken to +choose only those plants which will do really well in the particular soil +the garden possesses. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +On the Duty of Making Experiments + + _Description of a small yet lovely garden--Colour schemes--The spring + dell--A novel way of growing flowers--Variety in flower-gardens._ + + +="Be original!"= is a motto that every amateur gardener should adopt. Far +too few experiments are made by the average owner of a garden; he jogs +along on the same old lines, without a thought of the delightful +opportunities he misses. Each garden, however small, should possess an +=individuality= of its own--some feature that stamps it as out of the +common run. + +I remember seeing a tiny strip in a large town quite fairy-like in its +loveliness, and it has always been a lesson to me on what enthusiasm can +do. The old lady to whom it belonged was not rich, but an ardent lover of +all that is beautiful in nature and art; moreover, she did nearly all the +work herself. Though it was situated amid smoke and dirt, it almost +invariably looked bright and pretty, reminding one somehow, from its +quaintness, of the "days of long ago," for there were no geraniums, no +calceolarias, no lobelias, and not a single Portugal laurel in the whole +place. =Gardeners of the red, white, and blue school=, if any read this +book, will open their eyes at all this, and wonder, maybe, how a proper +garden could manage to exist without these indispensable plants. But then +it was not a proper garden in their sense of the term; paths were winding +instead of straight, flowers grew so well, and bloomed so abundantly that +they even ran into the walks occasionally, and, what was yet more +reprehensible, there was not a shadow of a box edging to =restrain= their +mad flight! Roses and jasmine threw their long flower-laden shoots over +the arches in wild luxuriance, and were a pretty sight, as viewed from the +seat hidden in a bower near by. + +There was a small fernery, too, containing some of the choicest specimens +that can be grown in this country. Altogether it was a most charming +little garden, and gave infinite pleasure to the owner and her friends; +indeed, I for one have often been much less pleased with formal ground of +several acres in extent, though the latter might cost a mint of money to +keep up. + +Experiments in the way of colour-schemes are most interesting, and should +appeal to ladies, who may gain ideas for their costumes from the blending +of shades in their garden, or _vice-versā_. Here a word of warning will +not be out of place; do not rely too much on the =coloured descriptions in +the catalogues=, for, as they are usually drawn up by men, they are +frequently inaccurate; so many men are =partially colour-blind=, and will +describe a crushed strawberry as a carmine! Frequently a flower will +change its colour, however, when in different soil and position, even in +the same district. + +=THE DELL AT CHERTSEY.= A novel way of growing plants is to open up a +spring dell. I wonder if any of my readers have ever seen the one on St. +Ann's Hill, Chertsey? I will try to picture it here. A large basin is +scooped out of the hill, and on the slopes of this basin are grown masses +of rhododendrons and azaleas. Round the rim at the top is some light +rustic fencing, partially covered with climbing plants, and there was also +a narrow bridge of the same material. This dell could not be copied in +very small gardens, because it should be so placed as to come upon one +rather in the way of a surprise, but where there are any corners not quite +in view of all the windows, a little ingenuity will make a lovely thing of +it. The shrubs used need not be identical; less expensive plants may be +grown in just the same way. Those on the slope of the dell will do best; +the plants for the bottom must be carefully chosen, as, of course, they +will get =much moisture and little sun=. Wall-flowers would run to leaf in +that position; and so, I am afraid, would forget-me-not; daisies (double +ones) would revel there, however, particularly if the soil were made +fairly rich; they are extremely reasonable in price, and easily obtained. +Bluebells, wood anemones, _doronicums_, _hepaticas_, narcissus, snowdrops, +all like such a situation, but perhaps the queen of them all is _dicentra +spectabilis_, or "lady's locket," as it is sometimes called; it has pink +drooping racemes and finely-cut foliage, and is generally found under +glass, though it is never seen to such advantage as when well grown out of +doors. This dell is the very place for it, as, when out in the open +ground, rough winds injure its precocious blooms. The =hardy cyclamen= +would do admirably, too, but these must be planted on the slope of the +dell, as they need perfect drainage. In summer it should be a mass of +filmy ferns, foxgloves, and hardy orchids; the best of the orchids is +_cypripedium spectabile_, and it should be planted in peat and leaf-mould, +and in such a way that it is fairly dry in winter and well watered in +summer. Experiments in the way of growing uncommon plants are always +interesting; in the next chapter, therefore, I will mention a few +unreasonably neglected plants, including some novelties which I can +personally testify to as well worth obtaining. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +Some Neglected but Handsome Plants + + _The sweet old columbine--BOCCONIA CORDATA at Hampton Court-- + CAMPANULAS as continuous bloomers--The heavenly larkspurs--Christmas + roses--The tall and brilliant lobelias--The Chinese-lantern + plants--Tufted pansies._ + + +We will begin alphabetically, therefore I will first say a few words +regarding the =pink-flowered anemone japonica=. Though the white variety +(_alba_) is to be seen in every garden, the older kind is not grown half +enough; perhaps this is owing to the peculiar pinkish shade of the petals, +a colour that will harmonize with few others, and might be termed +ęsthetic; it should be grown in a large clump by itself or mixed with +white; it flowers at the same time as _A. j. alba_, and equally approves +of a rich and rather heavy soil, and also likes a shady place. Both kinds +spread rapidly. + +=Aquilegias, or columbines, are most elegant plants=, generally left to +the cottage garden, though their delicate beauty fits them for the best +positions; they do well on borders, and generally flower about the end of +May; in a light soil they seed freely, and spring up all round the parent +plant. =Asters=, the botanical name for Michaelmas daisies, are beautiful +flowers for a small garden if the right sort are chosen; those that take +up a great deal of room should be discarded where space is an object, and +such kinds as _A. amellus bessaribicus_, planted instead; this is perhaps +the finest of the genus, and is =first-rate for cutting=. It is only two +feet high, of neat habit, and bears large, bright mauve flowers with +golden centres very freely, from the beginning of August right into +October. =A. ericoides= is another one of neat habit, and is only half a +foot taller than the last; it bears long sprays, covered the whole way up +the stem with tiny white flowers and mossy foliage. Some of the +_novi-belgii_ asters are also very good and easy to grow. One of the most +=effective and beautiful= plants in the summer months is _bocconia +cordata_; it has delicate, heart-shaped foliage of a clear apple-green, +silvered beneath, and creamy flower-spikes which measure from three to +five feet in height; though so tall, it is eminently =fitted for the town +garden=, for it is not a straggling plant and rarely requires staking. At +Hampton Court Palace it is one of the most striking things in the +herbaceous border during July. + +The hardy =campanulas= are good things to have, and in their own shade of +blue are not to be beaten; of the taller varieties, the blue and white +peach-leaved kinds are the handsomest, and come in very usefully for +cutting. _C. carpatica_ and _C. c. alba_ are shorter, being only one foot +high; they =flower continuously=, and look very well in a bed with the +double _potentillas_, which are described further on. + +=Coreopsis grandiflora= is handsomer than the old _lanceolata_, and bears +large bright yellow flowers, which are very handsome when cut and =bloom +for a long period=. + +It is difficult to imagine what we should do without =delphiniums= +(larkspurs) in the hardy flower-border; they are absolutely invaluable, +and seem to have almost =every good quality=, neither are they at all +difficult to grow; some of their blossoms are of an azure blue, a rare +colour in nature; then they can be had of a Cambridge blue, purple, white, +rose, and even red; the last, however, is a fickle grower and not to be +recommended, save for the rockery. Though one may give 21s. and even more +per dozen for them, beautiful kinds can be had for 10s.; these plants run +from two to five feet high in good soil, but need plenty of manure to do +them really well, as they belong to the tribe of "=gross-feeders=." + +The =erigerons= are useful plants to grow, very much like the +large-flowered Michaelmas daisies, except that they come in earlier and +are of a dwarfer habit; they may be had in orange as well as blue shades. + +The =funkias= are grand plants, grown chiefly for their =foliage=, which +is sometimes green margined with white, or green mixed with gold, and in +one kind the leaves are marbled blue and green; they =set off the flowers +near them= to great advantage. In the early spring slugs attack them; +these must be trapped and killed (see Chap. VIII.). + +Why are the old =Christmas roses= seen so little, I wonder? Grown in heavy +soil and cold aspect they do beautifully, and bring us their pure white +flowers =when little else is obtainable outside=. One thing against them +in this hurry-skurry age is the fact that they increase so slowly; this +makes them rather expensive too. Good plants of _helleborus niger maximus_ +may, however, be bought for half-a-crown; this variety has =very handsome +leaves=, and is all the better for a little manure. + +=A flower that everybody admires= is the =heuchera sanguinea=, a rare and +lovely species; it has graceful sprays of coral-red flowers, borne on +stems from one to two feet high, which generally appear in June, and are +first-rate for cutting. =Lobelia fulgens= is a brilliantly beautiful +species, not to be confounded with the dwarf blue kinds; these tall +varieties have quaintly-shaped red flowers, and narrow leaves of the +darkest crimson; the roots are rather tender, and much dislike damp during +the autumn and winter. + +=Lychnis chalcedonica= is one of the unreasonably neglected plants; it has +=bright scarlet flowers=, a good habit, and grows from two to three feet +high; it must have a sunny position and prefers a sandy soil. + +Some of the new hardy =penstemons= are lovely, and =flower during the +whole summer=; they look very well in a round bed by themselves, and do +not require much looking after; they are rather too tender to withstand +our damp winters without protection, therefore the old plants should be +mulched, after having had cuttings taken from them, to be kept secure from +frost in a frame. + +The =winter cherry=, or =Cape gooseberry (physalis alkekengi)= is a most +fascinating plant; =its fruit is the attraction=, and resembles +Chinese-lanterns; they appear early in September, and make quite a good +show in the garden. When bad weather comes, the stalks should be cut, hung +up to dry for about a week, and then mixed in vases with dried grasses and +the effect is very pretty. Care must be taken when asking for this plant +under the English name, as there is a greenhouse plant so termed which is +quite different, and, of course, will not stand frost. A dozen plants cost +about 5s.; do not be persuaded to get the newer sort--_franchetti_--the +berries are larger, but coarse and flabby, and not nearly so decorative. + +=Polemonium richardsoni= is a very pretty plant, its English name being +=Jacob's ladder=. The flowers are borne in clusters, and are pale sky-blue +in colour with a yellow eye: the foliage is fernlike in character and very +abundant. This plant =likes a shady nook=, which must not be under trees, +however, and if well watered after its first bloom is over in June, it +will flower again in autumn. The double =potentillas= are glorious things +for bedding, and are most uncommon looking. Their flowers are =like small +double roses= in shape: generally orange, scarlet, or a mixture of both: +the leaves, greyish-green in colour, resemble those of the strawberry. +Unfortunately, these plants require a good deal of staking, but they are +well worth the trouble. + +The large-leaved =saxifrages=, sometimes called _megaseas_, merit a good +deal more attention than they receive. For one thing they begin flowering +very early, holding up their close pink umbels of flowers so bravely in +cold winds: then their foliage is quite distinct, and turns to such =a +rich red in September= that this fact, added to their easy cultivation, +makes it wonderful that they are not more grown. I remember, on a dreary +day in mid-February, being perfectly charmed by the sight of a large bed +of this _saxifraga ligulata_, completely filling up the front garden of a +workman's cottage in one of the poorest roads of a large town. The flowers +are particularly =clean and fresh-looking=, and having shiny leaves they +of course resist dust and dirt well. + +=Tradescantias= and =trollius= are two good families of plants for growing +on north borders; the first have curious blue or reddish-purple flowers, +rising on stiff stalks clothed with long pointed leaves, and they continue +in =flower from May till September=. The =trollius= has bright orange or +lemon-yellow cup-shaped blossoms and luxuriant foliage. It flowers from +the end of May for some weeks. Both these plants grow about two feet high. + +=Violas= or =tufted pansies= are very pretty, and extremely =suitable for +the ground work of beds=, especially where these are in shade, though they +will not do under trees. Cuttings must constantly be taken, as +one-year-old plants flower more continuously, and have larger blooms and a +more compact habit than older plants, besides which they are apt to die +out altogether, if left to themselves. + +These are but a few of the wealth of good things to be made use of, for, +when once real enthusiasm is awakened, the amateur who wishes to have a +thoroughly interesting garden will only be too eager to avail himself of +all that is best in the horticultural world. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +The Conservatory and Greenhouse + + _Mistakes in staging--Some suitable climbers--Economical + heating--Aspect, shading, etc.--The storing of plants--No waste + space--Frames._ + + +=A well-kept conservatory= adds much to the charm of a drawing-room, but +requires careful management. Potting and the like cannot very well go on +in a place which must always look presentable. A conservatory, of course, +is tiled, and therefore every dead leaf and any soil that may be spilled +show very much; it is therefore advisable to have a greenhouse as well, +or, failing that, some frames. A greenhouse, though it may be only just +large enough to turn round in, is a great help towards a nice garden, and +a boon in winter; it also allows of =a change of plants= for the +dwelling-house and conservatory, greatly to their advantage. =Staging +generally takes up far too much room=; the middle part of a conservatory +should be left free, so that there is space to walk about; stands for +plants are easily arranged, and give a more natural appearance than fixed +staging, which always looks rather stiff. Being a good deal more liable to +visits from guests than an ordinary greenhouse, the conservatory must be +kept scrupulously clean and neat; the floor, walls, and woodwork must be +washed very often, and the glass kept beautifully bright. Cobwebs must +never be allowed to settle anywhere, and all the shelves must be kept free +of dirt and well painted; curtains should be hung near the entrance to the +drawing-room, so that they may be pulled across the opening at any time, +to hide work of this sort. + +=Hanging plants= are great adjuncts where the structure is lofty, and +open-work iron pillars, when draped with some graceful climbing plant, are +a great improvement. Where there is but little fire heat, considerable +care will be needed to choose something which will look well all the year +round. We will suppose that the frost is merely kept out; in the summer, +such a house can be bright with _plumbago_, _pelargoniums_, _salvias_, and +indeed all the regular greenhouse flowering plants, as, except in +hot-houses, no artificial heat is then necessary anywhere. In winter, +there is more difficulty, for all the climbing plants which are in +conspicuous positions must be nearly hardy; of these, the trumpet flower +(_bignonia_), _swainsonia_, passion-flower, _choisya ternata_, myrtle and +camellia, are the best; these are nearly evergreen, and consequently look +ornamental even when out of flower. + +=Plants suitable for hanging baskets= are the trailing _tradescantias_, +the white _campanula_, lobelia, pelargonium, and many ferns. For the pot +plants there are hosts of things; _freesias_, _cyclamen_, +marguerite-carnations, _primulas_, Christmas roses, arums, azaleas, +_kalmias_, _spireas_, chrysanthemums, narcissus, roman hyacinths, and so +on. Many late-flowering hardy plants, will, if potted up, continue in +bloom long after the cold has cut them off outside. + +=Cactus plants=, too, ordinarily grown in a warm green-house, will even +withstand one or two degrees of frost when kept perfectly dry, dust-dry, +in fact. During winter in England =it is the damp that kills=, not the +cold; bearing that in mind, we shall be able to grow many things that +hitherto have puzzled us. All those delicate iris, half-hardy ferns, and +tiresome plants that would put off flowering till too late, why, a cold +conservatory or greenhouse is the very place for them! + +=Green-houses are altogether easier to manage than conservatories=, and +therefore are the best for amateurs. There cuttings may be struck, plants +repotted, fuchsias, geraniums, etc., stored, and tender annuals reared. A +=lean-to greenhouse= should face south preferably, and the door should be +placed at the warm end, that is, the west, so that when opened no biting +wind rushes in. When the summer comes, a temporary shading will be +necessary; twopennyworth of whitening and a little water mixed into a +paste will do this. About the middle of September it should be washed off, +if the rain has not already done so; for if it remains on too long the +plants will grow pale and lanky. + +=ARTIFICIAL HEAT.= The Rippingille stove before referred to must be placed +at the coldest end, and only sufficient warmth should emanate from it just +to keep out the frost, unless it is intended to use it all day. It is well +to remember that =the colder the atmosphere outside, the cooler in +proportion must the interior be=. Even a hot-house is allowed by a good +gardener to go down to 60° or even 55° on a bitterly cold night, as a +great amount of fire-heat at such times is inimical to plant life, though +it will stand a tremendous amount of sun-power. Several mats or lengths of +woollen material, canvas, etc., stretched along outside will save expense, +and be a more natural way of preserving the plants. + +=One great advantage that a greenhouse has= over a conservatory is this: +that any climbers can be planted out, whereas tubs have to be used where +the floor is tiled. =Cucumbers and tomatoes= do very well in a small +house, and an abundance of these is sure to please the housekeeper. Seeds +of the cucumber should be sown about the first week in March on a hot-bed; +if in small pots all the better, as their roots suffer less when +transferred to where they are to fruit. Do not let the shoots become +crowded, or insects and mildew will attack them. In the summer, "damp +down" pretty frequently and give plenty of air, avoiding anything like a +draught, however. "=Telegraph=," though not new, is a reliable cucumber of +good flavour and a first-rate cropper. =Tomato seed= should be sown about +the same time and the plants treated similarly, giving plenty of water but +no stimulant in the way of guano till they have set their fruit, which can +be assisted by passing a camel's hair brush over the flowers, and thus +fertilising them. Of course, out of doors the bees do this; their +"busyness" materially aiding the gardener. + +As to =storing plants=, a box of sand placed in a dry corner where no drip +can reach it, is best for this, burying the roots of dahlias, etc., fairly +deep in it, and withholding water till the spring, when they may be taken +out, each root examined, decayed parts removed, and every healthy plant +repotted. The pots should be placed under the shelves till they shoot +forth, when they can be gradually brought forward to the light. This +reminds me that =the dark parts of a greenhouse= should never be wasted, +as, besides their use in bringing up bulbs, ferns can be grown for +cutting, and such things as rhubarb, may be readily forced there. =Frames= +are very useful and fairly cheap, though it is best to get them set with +21-oz. glass, or they will not last long. Seedlings may be brought up in +them with greater success than if in a greenhouse, and a supply of violets +may be kept up in them during the coldest weather. The mats they are +covered with during the night must never be removed till the frost is well +off the grass, say about 11 a.m., as a sudden thaw makes terrible havoc. + +=The great point to remember= when about to indulge in a greenhouse is +this: unless sufficient time and trouble can be given to make it worth +while, it is better to spend the money on the outdoor department, which to +a certain extent takes care of itself. Where there is leisure to attend to +a greenhouse, however, few things will give more return for the care spent +on it. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +The Tool Shed and Summer-House + + _Spades and the Bishop--Weeding without back-ache--The indispensable + thermometer--Well-made tools a necessity--Summer-houses and their + adornment._ + + +Though it is true enough that the best workmen need little mechanical aid, +yet =a well-stocked tool-shed= is not to be despised. Sometimes it may +only be a portion of a bicycle-shed which can be set apart for our +implements, or the greenhouse may have to find room for a good many of +them, but certain it is that a few nicely-finished tools are an absolute +necessity to the would-be gardener. Of course a good many of them can be +hired; it is not everyone, for instance, who possesses a =lawn-mower=, but +if the owner of a garden is ambitious enough to wish to do without a +gardener altogether, a lawn-mower will be one of the first things he will +wish to possess himself of. In that case he cannot do better than invest +is one of Ransome's or Green's machines. Their work is always of a high +standard and the firms are constantly making improvements in them. The +newest ones are almost perfection, but it is better to get a second-hand +one of either of these firms than a new one of an inferior make. A +=roller= is useful too, but, as these large implements run into a good +deal of money, it may be as well to state that, on payment of 2d. or so, +any of them may be borrowed for an hour or two. Ladders can be had in this +way; also shears, fret-saws--anything that is only wanted occasionally. + +A =spade= is a daily necessity, however. Has not one of our most learned +divines exalted the art of digging by his commendation thereof, and who +shall say him nay? It is expedient to wear =thick boots=, however, during +this operation, not only on account of the earth's moisture, but also +because otherwise it is ruinous to our soles. To preserve the latter, a +spade with a sharp edge should never be chosen, but one which has a flat +piece of iron welded on to the body of it. Digging is good because it +breaks up the earth, and exposes it to the sun and also to the frost, +which sweetens and purifies it; care must be taken however, in doing it, +as so many things die down in the winter and are not easily seen. The +ordinary hired gardener is very clever at =burying things so deep that +they never come up again=! + +Most people abhor =weeding=, yet if done with a Dutch hoe it is rather +=pleasant work=, as no stooping is required. After a few showers of rain +the hoe runs along very easily, and the good it does is so patent that I +always think it very satisfactory labour indeed. These hoes cost about 1s. +6d. each. + +=Raking= is easy work, and very useful for smoothing beds or covering +seeds over with soil. English made, with about eight or ten teeth, their +cost is from two to three shillings. One of the most necessary implements +is a =trowel=, in particular for a lady, as its use does not need so much +muscle as a spade; their price is from 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. each. + +Where there are many climbers =a hammer= is wanted, not a toy one of +German make; these are sometimes chosen by amateurs under the mistaken +idea that the lighter the hammer the lighter the work. One of English +make, strong and durable, is the kind of thing required, and costs about +2s. or 2s. 6d. =Wall-nails=, one inch long (the most useful size), are 2d. +a pound, and may be had at any ironmongers. The =shreds of cloth= may be +bought too, but anyone who deals at a tailor's can procure a mixed bundle +of cloth pieces for nothing, when there is the light labour of cutting +them into shreds, work of a few minutes only. + +In choosing =watering-cans=, see that they are thoroughly good tin, as a +strong can will last for years; moreover, when it begins to leak it will +bear mending; they cost from 3s. upwards, the roses should be made to take +off as a rule, and a special place assigned to them on the shelf of the +tool-shed, as they readily get lost. =Syringes=, much used for washing off +insects, are rather expensive, consequently are not to be found in many +small gardens; a more fortunate friend will sometimes lend one, as there +is a good deal of freemasonry amongst people who indulge in the hobby of +gardening. + +A thing everyone must have is =a thermometer=, in greenhouses they are +indispensable; the minimum kind are the most useful, telling one as they +do exactly the degree of frost experienced during the preceding night. +They may be bought at a chemist's for 1s. each, and must be re-set every +day; the aforesaid chemist will show any purchaser the way to do this--it +is quite simple. + +=Raffia=, or =bass=, for tying flower-sticks, and =labels= are minor +necessities which cost little, though sticks may run into a good deal if +bought prepared for staking. Personally, I dislike both the coloured kinds +(never Nature's green) and the white. Both show far more than the +=unobtrusive sticks= obtained by cutting down the stalks of Michaelmas +daisies, for instance. =Galvanised iron stakes last practically for ever=, +and if they are of the twisted kind, no tying is required, greatly +lessening labour. It is a curious fact that though =arches made of iron +set up electrical disturbance= and injure the climbers, these stakes seem +to have no bad effect whatever. At the end of the autumn they should be +collected, and stored in a safe place till summer comes round again. Thin +ones suitable for carnations, etc., may be procured from A. Porter, +Storehouse, Maidstone, for 1s. a dozen, carriage paid. The thicker ones +can be made to order at small cost at any ironmonger's. + +A handy man can often make =frames= himself, especially if they are not +required to be portable, and really these home-made ones answer almost as +well as those that are bought. Good frames can sometimes be had at sales +for an old song, and only require a coat of paint to make them as good as +new. + +Here I will end my list, only reiterating that, however few tools you may +have, it is foolish to get any but the best. + +A =summer-house= need not necessarily be bought ready-made. I have seen +many a pretty bower put together in the spare hours of the carpenter of +the family. There is one advantage in these =home-made summer-houses=, +that they are generally more roomy than those which are bought, and can be +made to suit individual requirements. + +=HOW TO COVER A SUMMER-HOUSE.= Of course, it is more necessary to cover +these amateur and therefore somewhat clumsy structures with creepers, but +that is not difficult. Even the first summer they can be made to look +quite presentable by planting the =Japanese hop=. The leaves are +variegated, and in shape like the Virginia creeper. Messrs. Barr, of Long +Ditton, Surrey, told me it grew 25 feet in one season. It can be had from +them in pots, about the first week in May, for 3s. 6d. a dozen. Then there +are the =nasturtiums=, always so effective when =trained up lengths of +string=, with the dark back-ground of the summer-house to show up their +beautiful flowers. If the soil in which they grow is poor and gravelly, +the blossoms will be more numerous. The =canary creeper= is another plant, +which is so =airy and graceful= that one never seems to tire of it. Get +the seeds up in good time, so that when planted out they are of a fair +height, else so much of the summer is lost. + +There are so many =uncommon climbing plants= which should be tried, +notably _eccremocarpus scaber_, _cobea scandens_, and _mina lobata_. The +last two are annual, and the first can be grown as such, though in mild +winters and in sunny positions it is a perennial. It =flowers whenever the +weather will let it=, and its blossoms are orange-yellow in colour, very +curious and invariably noticed by visitors. Reliable seeds of all three +can be had from Messrs. Barr, at 6d. a packet. The _cobea_ bears pale +purple bell-shaped flowers, and is a quick grower. _Mina lobata_ is +generally admired, and though of a different family bears a slight +resemblance to an _eccremocarpus_, both in the shape of its flowers and in +the way they are arranged on the stem. It is only half hardy. Clematis +_jackmanni_ and _montana_ are good for this position too. _Jackmanni_ is +the well-known velvety purple kind, and must be cut down to the ground +every autumn, and well mulched; that is because it flowers on the new +growth of each year. _Montana_, however, flowers on the wood of the +previous year, and therefore must be cut back about the end of June, if at +all, as May is the month it blooms. + +The Dutchman's pipe, or _aristolochia sipho_, is not to be altogether +recommended, as =its huge leaves always seem to make small gardens appear +smaller still=, which is not desirable; otherwise, it is a splendid plant +for covering summer-houses, as it is a rapid climber. It is wise to plant +some of the =decorative ivies= as well, so that, if the flowering plants +fail, it will not be of so much consequence. The =varieties with pointed +leaves= are exceedingly elegant, and are much more suitable than the +common sort for decorating churches and dwelling-house, and cost no more +to buy. + +=FRAGRANT ODOURS.= At =the base of the summer-house= there should be +quantities of sweet-scented plants, as this will make the time spent there +all the pleasanter. There are lavender, rosemary, thyme, bay, sweet peas, +stocks, and mignonette, besides the oak-leaved geranium, tobacco plant, +marvel of Peru, and, of course, roses, though the latter do not give off +scent quite so much as the other plants mentioned. + +The =position of the summer-house= is important. I have seen some divided, +but where there is no partition it should generally face west. It is +delightful on a fine evening to sit and watch the clouds change from glory +to glory, as the sun gradually sinks to its rest, and the stars gleam out +in the darkening sky. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +Roses for Amateurs + + _Teas--Hybrid perpetuals--Some good climbing varieties--Treatment and + soil--Rose hedges--Pillar roses._ + + +The reason for the heading given to this chapter is that growing roses for +show will not be mentioned, as it is quite a separate branch of the art +and would require a book to itself to do it full justice. =Blooms of a +fair size, but in abundance= during five months of the year, that is what +most amateurs need, for, after all, the amount of disbudding that has to +be done when growing roses for show quite goes to one's heart! We want +fine, well-coloured, healthy flowers, and to attain that end a =good soil +is absolutely necessary=. This is especially the case with =Hybrid +Perpetuals=, but Teas will often do in a light soil, if manure is given +them, and plenty of water in the dry season. The H.P.'s, as gardeners call +them, =must have loam and clay= to do them properly; where the soil is not +improved by adding these ingredients, it is advisable to rely chiefly on +Tea Roses. + +=THE ADVANTAGES OF TEAS.= For many reasons Tea Roses are the best for +small gardens, as they like the shelter found there. They =flower more +continuously= and in much greater profusion, are not so troubled with +green fly, and are far =more decorative= in habit of growth and colour of +leafage than most of the other species. In their particular shades of +colour they cannot be equalled, though for cherry reds and dark maroons we +have to look to the Hybrid Perpetual, at least, if we want flowers of fine +form, and also for that =lovely fresh pink= of the Captain Christy type +(though this is now termed a Hybrid Tea by rosarians). The name Perpetual +is apt to give =a false idea= to those who are not experienced. Most of +these roses are not at all continuous, many only lasting six weeks or so +in bloom, and some even less, if the season is hot; that is one great +reason why they are being superseded by Teas, at least in the suburbs of +London and the South of England. In the Midlands and North the =hardiness +of the H.P.'s= is greatly in their favour. + +=Teas will stand the closeness= of a garden surrounded by houses and trees +much better than the Perpetuals, which are very apt to become mildewed in +such positions. Of course, many remedies are given for this, but often +they are =worse than the disease=; flowers of sulphur, for instance, to +take the best-known remedy, disfigures the whole plant terribly. + +=Teas= are much the =best for planting in beds= which are very +conspicuous, for, as I said previously, they are always ornamental. Where +standards are placed down each side of the lawn, it is rather a good plan +to place all the =Hybrid Perpetuals on one side and the Teas on the +other=, giving the greater amount of sun to the latter. + +=GOOD CLIMBERS FOR WARM WALLS.= When covering a very hot wall, too, it is +best, in the South of England, to stick to the tender roses, as the others +become almost burnt up. I will name here five of the =best climbing Tea +roses= for a south or west wall. William Allan Richardson the beautiful +orange variety so much admired; Bouquźt d'or, a daughter of Gloire de +Dijon, but prettier in the bud than the old variety; Madame Berard, fawny +yellow, very floriferous; L'Idéal, and Gustave Regis. =L'Ideal is a most +beautiful rose=, its colouring almost defying description--a peculiar +yellow, streaked with red and gold, like a Turner sunset. Gustave Regis, +though often classed as a bush rose, easily covers a low wall, and is one +of the best kinds there are, as it is covered with bloom the whole of the +season. The buds make =lovely button-holes=, and are creamy yellow, long, +and pointed. They are just like water-lilies when fully open, and on a +warm sunny day exhale a perfectly delicious fragrance, unlike any other +rose with which I am acquainted. + +Another good climbing =tea-rose= is Duchesse d'Auerstadt. Though +introduced as long ago as 1887, this variety is =not often heard of=, +perhaps on account of its shy blooming qualities. This however need deter +no one from growing it, as its =lovely foliage= makes it quite a picture +at all times: bronze, crimson, rich metallic green, its shoots and leaves +are a pleasure to look at. Its flowers, too, when they come how splendid +they are! =great golden goblets= full to overflowing with the firm, rich +petals and with a scent to match; they are indeed worth waiting for! +Anxiously is each bud watched, for they take so long to come to perfection +that the anxiety is not ill-founded. I have known a bud take four weeks to +come out, but then it had to stand a lot of bad weather, and came through +it safely after all. All these rose-trees may be had from Benjamin R. Cant +& Sons, Colchester, at 1s. 6d. each. This firm always sends out good +plants, with plenty of vitality in them, and as these old-established +rose-nurseries are by no means in a sheltered spot, you may be sure of +each tree being hardily grown and thoroughly ripened, great points in +their future well-being. + +=CLIMBERS FOR COOL WALLS.= East, or better still E.S.E., is a good aspect +for Hybrid Perpetual and Bourbon roses on walls. I have frequently noticed +that they have a great dislike to the very hottest of the sun's rays, and +that is the reason I have advised those places to be reserved for Teas. +Some good climbing varieties for cool aspects are:--Mrs. John Laing, a +satiny pink of lovely form and sweet scent. Jules Margottin, cherry-red, +globular in shape, sweet-scented and very floriferous. Prince Camille de +Rohan, =one= of =the best dark roses= to be had, as they are generally so +difficult to grow--it is blackish-maroon in colour, and flowers +abundantly. Boule-de-neige, a Bourbon, with white flowers in great +abundance. Madame Isaac Pereire another Bourbon; it is a quick grower and +=most abundant flowerer=, the flowers are bright rose crimson. +Souvenir-de-la-Malmaison, one of the best Bourbons we have; does +particularly well on cold walls, even on those facing north. Its flowers +are very large, somewhat flat in form, and blush-white; it =blooms +abundantly in autumn=, and is rarely subject to blight. + +=CLIMBERS REQUIRE VERY LITTLE PRUNING.= It is a case chiefly of cutting +out all dead wood, and snipping the decayed ends of those that are left. +=When planting rose-trees= of any description, choose mild and if possible +calm weather, for it is better to keep the trees out of the ground a few +days rather than plant them in frosty weather. =The soil should be +friable=, so that it crumbles fairly well, and when the plant is in +position it is advisable =to cover the roots with potting-soil= for two or +three inches. Spread the roots out like a fan, and be sure not to plant +the tree too deep. =Look carefully for the mark= showing the union =of +graft and stock=, and be careful not to cover this with more than two +inches of soil. Tread down the soil well to make it firm, and thus induce +the rose-trees to make fresh roots. In =planting out climbers=, carefully +tack all loose shoots to the wall or fence behind it, else the wind may do +much harm. When all is finished give a good mulching of strawy manure, +which should be dug in when March comes; and if there is a likelihood of +frost, protect the branches with bracken or any light covering. + +=BUSH ROSES OF THE H.P. TYPE.= I will now give a few of the best Hybrid +Perpetuals of the bush type; many of the varieties I shall name, however, +=make very good standards= though they are more expensive. The "dwarfs," +as rosarians call them, only cost from 9d. to 1s. each at Messrs. Cant's, +except in the case of =novelties=; and where these are concerned, it is +well to wait a year or two, as they rapidly go down to the normal price. +Duke of Teck, bright carmine scarlet, of good form, and occasionally +blooms in the autumn. Dupuy Jamain, =one of the best H.P.'s ever +introduced=, the flowers are almost cherry-red in colour, sweet-scented, +and come out in succession =the whole of the summer=: it is a quick +grower, and does well in a somewhat shady position. Heinrich Schultheis +flowers of a true rose-pink touched with silver, very prettily shaped and +exceedingly fragrant. Unfortunately, this variety is =subject to attacks +of mildew=, though this does not seem to affect the beauty of the flowers +but spoils the leaves. + +Baroness Rothschild, a faultless rose as regards form and colour, which is +a beautiful pale pink, but utterly =devoid of scent=, a serious fault in +my opinion. Comtesse de Bearn, large, dark, and very floriferous. Madame +Gabriel Luizet, light silvery pink, quick growing, and free blooming. +Ulrich Brunner, always given an excellent character in the catalogues, and +indeed it is a good rose, cherry-red in colour, sweet-scented, and of fine +form: it =rarely ails=, mildew and rust passing it by altogether. It is +exceedingly vigorous, and makes therefore a good pillar-rose. Pride of +Waltham, a =rose little heard-of= yet most lovely; its blossoms are of the +brightest pink, sweetly scented, and beautifully cupped. Charles Lefčvre, +beautiful crimson with dark shading; also very good at Kew (and +continuous). Abel Carričre, another dark maroon of fine form, and Queen of +the bedders, producing carmine flowers so freely that it must be +disbudded; it is subject to mildew. + +So many roses formerly classed as Hybrid Perpetuals are now called Hybrid +Teas. The dear old La France is one that has undergone this change; it is +=a rose no-one should be without=, and should be grown both as a standard +and a bush; its silvery pink flowers have a most exquisite scent and +perfect shape (that is, when nearly wide open; it is not a good +button-hole variety). Another Hybrid Tea rose that has come to the fore +lately is Bardou Job, a =splendid bedding variety=, with flaming roses +almost single in form, but produced in prodigal profusion; it pays for +feeding. Queen Mab is a somewhat similar rose but has apricot flowers, +tinted pink and orange, borne in the same generous manner. It is a china +rose; neither of these kinds attain a great height, nevertheless beds +entirely composed of them are exceedingly effective and may be seen some +distance off; they require very little pruning. + +=PILLAR ROSES.= Having mentioned pillar-roses, I will add a few more names +especially calculated to do well in such positions; perhaps =one of the +best= is Paul's Carmine Pillar, with its sheets; of lovely flowers +covering the stems the whole way up, with plenty of healthy foliage to set +them off. When better known, I should imagine it would be a rival even to +Turner's Crimson Rambler, magnificent as that is when grown to perfection. +At Kew recently a bed of the Carmine Pillar was quite =one of the sights +of the garden=. A close investigation of the bed in which they were +planted revealed the fact that every alternate rose-tree was a Gloire de +Dijon, but each one was a sorry failure, and instead of scaling the +heights, crouched low at the foot of its iron stake, as though unwilling +to compete with the other blushing occupants. The "glories" were not very +youthful either, that one could see by their thick hard stems; plenty of +time had evidently been given them to do the work, but for some unknown +reason they had shirked it. I have known several cases of this sort with +the much-loved "glory de John," as the gardeners broadly term it. Madame +Plantier is =a good white pillar-rose=, doing well in any situation, and +Cheshunt Hybrid is also most accommodating, and blooms well even in poor +soil, though it well repays good cultivation. Its flowers, cherry-carmine +in colour, are large and full, and the petals are prettily veined and +curl over at the edges. The foliage is rich, and the tree =never seems +attacked by any disease=; it is a Hybrid Tea. Aimée Vibert, a noisette, is +very good as a pillar-rose and extremely hardy: it also does well on +arches; the flowers are small and white, with pink tips to the petals; it +is very free, and flowers continuously. + +=ROSE HEDGES.= Hedges of roses are quite as effective as pillars, and make +a very pretty screen for two-thirds of the year. The =ever-green roses are +best= for this purpose, and of these Flora is by far-and-away the nicest +rose. It has sweet flowers, small, full, and of the loveliest pink; they +are borne in clusters, each one looking just ready for a fairy-wedding +bouquet. They have a delightful scent, too, their =only fault being their +short duration=; in one summer they will grow from five to ten feet, and +are so free-flowering as almost to hide the leaves. Dundee Rambler, Ruga, +Mirianthes, and Léopoldine d'Orléans are all equally suitable for hedges. + +=DWARF TEAS.= I will now name a list of the best dwarf Tea-roses; to begin +with, Alba Rosea is a dear old rose-tree, moderate in growth, bearing +numbers of flesh-white blossoms, good in form though small in size. These +have a faint, sweet scent, and are very pretty for cutting. One day last +August, I cut a whole branch off with about six open flowers upon it, and +put it in a tall vase just as it was; they arranged themselves, and were +much admired. The tree is decidedly dwarf and moderate in growth, and the +leaves are very dark green, thus making a beautiful foil to the roses. +Catherine Mermet is somewhat of the same type, but the flowers are larger +and more deeply flushed with pink; it is =a good green-house rose=. Madame +de Watteville resembles a tulip, having thick firm petals of a +creamy-white colour, distinctly edged with pink. It is a strong grower and +free in flowering. Madame Hoste is a pretty lemon-yellow colour, one of +the easiest to grow in this particular shade; the flowers are of good +form, and if well manured are large and full; it has a sweet scent. Madame +Lambard is =a rose no one can do without=, it is so free-blooming and +continuous; the colour is not constant, sometimes being mostly pink, at +others almost a fawn, but as a rule it is a blend of those two shades. + +Marie van Houtte is another =indispensable variety=; the roses are lovely +in form, of a pale lemon-yellow colour, each petal being flushed with pink +at the edges, and the whole having a soft bloom, as it were, over it. This +carmine-marking, however, is not constant; weather and position seem to +have a good deal to do with it. Meteor is one of the darker Teas, being +carmine-crimson shaded with blackish-maroon; the roses are not full though +of good shape, consequently they =look best in bud=. This tree wants +feeding to do well, and is not a vigorous grower. Grace Darling is =a gem= +which everyone should have; the blossoms are large, full, perfect in shape +and exquisite in colour, which is generally a peachy-pink, the reverse of +the petals being a rich cream, and, as these curl over in a charming +manner, the effect is unique and extremely beautiful. The foliage is +abundant, of a ruddy tint, and keeps free from blight; indeed, =this +entirely fascinating rose= has only one fault, it is altogether too +unassuming. + +A bright, pink rose of fine form is the Duchess of Albany; it is often +called =a deep coloured La France=, as it is a "sport" from that famous +rose. The Marquis of Salisbury is another dark tea-rose; it is small but +well-shaped though thin, and the blooms are abundant; it is strictly +moderate in growth, being somewhat like the Chinas in habit. A fine rose +=in a warm summer= is Kaiserin Friedrich, as it has large, very full, +flowers, which take a good deal of building up; it appears to dislike cold +and rainy weather. + +=Sunrise is a new kind= that is making a considerable stir in the +rose-world; its flowers vary from reddish-carmine to pale fawn, and the +tree has glorious foliage. + +=THE TIME TO PLANT.= October and November are the best months to plant +rose-trees, except in very cold parts; February is then a safer time, +especially for the tender sorts. =Their first season they require a great +deal of looking after=; their roots have not got a proper foot-hold in the +earth, and this means constant watering in dry weather. At blooming-time, +an occasional application of guano does a great deal of good, making both +flowers and leaves richer in colour. =Dead blooms, too, must be sedulously +cut off=, as, if left on, the tree is weakened. + +=PRUNING.= Do a little pruning in October, though March and April are the +chief months. In the autumn, however, the shoots of rose-trees should be +thinned out, the branches left can then be shortened a fourth of their +length with advantage, as the winter's howling winds are less likely to +harm them. Standards especially require this, as when "carrying much sail" +they are very liable to be up-rooted. + +When the spring comes, look the trees carefully over before commencing +operations, remembering that =the sturdier a tree is the less it needs +pruning=. The knife must go the deepest in the case of the poor, weak +ones. Always prune down to an "eye," that is an incipient leaf-bud; if +this is not done the wood rots. + +Evergreen roses need scarcely be touched, save to cut out dead branches +and snip off decayed ends. + +For Teas and Noisettes also, little actual pruning is necessary. H.P.'s +require the most. As a general rule for roses, if you want quality, not +quantity, prune: hard, but to enable you to "cut and come again," only +prune moderately. + +=Dis-budding= is a certain method of improving the blooms if it is done +=in time=. It is little use to do it when the buds once begin to show +colour; start picking off the superfluous ones when they are quite small, +and the difference in size and shape is often amazing. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +Enemies of the Garden + + _Slugs, and how to trap them--Blight or green fly--Earwigs-- + Wireworm--Snails--Mice--Friends mistakenly called foes._ + + +=The best garden as a rule has the fewest insects=, indeed, no foe is +allowed to lodge for any length of time without means being taken for its +extermination. Some enemies are more easily got rid of than others; for +instance, green fly, or _aphis_ (to give it the scientific name), rarely +attacks healthy plants to any extent; it goes for the sick ones, therefore +=good cultivation will speedily reduce their numbers=. When any is seen, a +strong syringing of =soapy water= will generally dislodge them, or, if +this is impracticable, a dusting of =tobacco-powder= is a very good +substitute. Tait and Buchanan's Anti-blight, to be had of most seedsmen, +is a reliable powder; it is also efficacious in preventing mildew in +potatoes, chrysanthemums, etc. + +In some gardens, especially those inclined to be damp, =slugs are very +troublesome=; their depredations are usually carried on by night, so that +it is rather difficult to trap them; many things are sold for this +purpose, but =hand-picking= is the surest method. In the evening, sink a +saucer a little way in the border, and fill this with moist bran; =it is +irresistible to the slugs=, and when twilight comes on they will steal out +from their hiding-places and make a supper off it. Then comes man's +opportunity. Armed with a pointed stick and a pail of salt and water, they +must be picked off and popped into the =receptacle=, there =to meet a +painless death=; one can squash them under foot, but where they are +plentiful this is rather a messy proceeding. Snails may be trapped in +exactly the same way; =salt or sand= should be placed in a ring round any +plant they are specially fond of, or else in a single night they will +graze off the whole of the juicy tops. Young growths are their greatest +delicacy, hence they are most troublesome in the spring. + +=Wireworm= is another tiresome enemy well known to carnation growers, and +more difficult to get rid of than the slug, owing to its hard and horny +covering which resists crushing; salt again, however, is =a splendid +cure=. It should be well mixed with the soil though not brought too close +to the plants. =Earwigs= are horrid insects to get into a garden; they +often come in with a load of manure, simply swarms of them imbedding +themselves in such places. Dahlias are the plants they like best, and, if +not kept down with a watchful eye, they will completely spoil both flowers +and leaves. Hollow tubes, such as short straws, put round will collect +many, or =the old plan= of filling an inverted flower-pot with moss is +also useful, though somewhat disfiguring, if perched on the tops of the +stakes supporting the dahlias. + +=Mice= are dreadfully destructive, too, especially in the country, and +being so quick in their movements they are troublesome to catch. Traps +must be baited with the daintiest morsels, to make them turn away from the +succulent tops of the new vegetation. Owls and other large birds are most +effectual in doing away with these troublesome little animals, a fact +which should be taken into account. =Many people from ignorance= destroy +birds or insects which may be urgently required to keep down annoying +pests--take, for instance, =ladybirds=--the pretty creatures are +=invaluable= where there is much green fly, yet how often are they doomed +to death by some well-meaning gardener, and it is the same with birds. =A +robin or sparrow will eat hundreds of aphides in one day=, so that, +unless there are many fruit-trees in the garden, it is most unwise to +shoot the dear little songsters; and even in the latter case, if +protection can be afforded, by all means save the birds! A while ago some +farmers had been so enraged by the devastation made by the sparrows and +starlings that they determined to kill all the old birds. The consequence +was that they were so over-run the next season by insects of every +description, that they had to import birds at great trouble, to take the +place of those they had killed. Foes are often mistaken for friends, but +occasionally the reverse is the case! + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +The Rockery + + _A few hints on its construction--Aspect and soil--A list of + Alpines--Other suitable plants._ + + +A well-constructed rockery filled with a good selection of Alpine plants +is a =never-failing delight= to anyone fond of a garden. Yet how rare a +thing it is! most of the erections one sees are mere apologies for the +real thing. The truth is not one gardener in a hundred knows how to make a +rockery, though he does not like to say so! =An artistic mind is needed= +to construct one that will be pleasing to the eye, besides a knowledge of +draining, water-supply, and so forth. An educated person is not actually +necessary, but one with common sense, who would not dream of making it +merely another back-ground for gorgeous bedding-plants which are all very +well in their right place, but absolutely =unsuited to a rockery=. + +=As regards aspect=, one that is built on each side of a narrow path +running north and south, does very well, but as this may be impossible in +a small garden, =a corner rockery= built high in the form of a triangle +and facing south-east, can be made extremely pretty, as I know from +experience. Where the rockery is in the shade, no overhanging trees must +be near, if choice Alpines are expected to live there. + +=The material= may be either slabs of grey stone as at Kew, or the more +easily obtained "clinkers." =Clinkers= are really bricks spoiled in the +baking, having all sorts of excrescences on them which unfit them for +ordinary building purposes; they should always be ordered from a strictly +local contractor, as carriage adds considerably to the cost. + +=The soil= should be a mixture of peat, sand, and loam; no manure should +be incorporated, the ="pockets"= for special favourites and plants that +have individual wants can be filled in at the time of planting. =One +advantage= pertaining to a rockery is that many plants which quite refuse +to thrive in a border will grow and flourish there, and the attention they +need is less troublesome to give; in fact, it is =a delightful form of +gardening=, especially for a lady, as there is no fear of the feet getting +dirty or wet, and a trowel, not a spade, is the chief implement used. A +small piece of turf, just a few feet wide, at the bottom of the corner +style of rockery, is =a great set-off=, and a vast improvement on a gravel +path. + +=SUITABLE PLANTS FOR A ROCKERY.= The following are some of the best +flowers for a rockery. The _aubrietias_ are very pretty little plants, +having creeping rosettes of greyish-green leaves, and a perfect sheet of +mauve or lilac bloom about April. The effect is greatly enhanced when +=planted so as to fall over a stone= or brick; indeed, it is for those +things which are so easily lost sight of in a border that a rockery comes +in; they can be closely inspected there without much stooping. + +The _arabis_ is a pretty plant, somewhat like the _aubrietia_ in habit and +time of flowering; hence, where only a small selection can be made, it +might be left out, as it is =a trifle coarse=. Such a term could never be +applied to the _androsaces_, which may be numbered among =the= _élite_ =of +rock plants=; they are evergreens, and do not exceed six inches in height; +they bear tiny but very bright flowers, varying from rose in some species +to lavender in others. + +=APENNINE GEMS.= Some of the alpine anemones are lovely, notably _A. +appennina_, which has sky-blue flowers that open out flat on very short +stalks, surrounded by pale green denticulated foliage. _A. blanda_ is much +the same, save that it flowers a month or so earlier; they are +spring-blooming plants, and like moisture and shade, and will not do at +all if subjected to much hot sun. These and many similar plants can often +be planted on a =rockery facing south-east= (which aspect suits so many +sun-loving plants), by arranging bricks, stones, or small shrubs, so as to +shelter them from its hottest rays. _Aquilegias_, mentioned in the list of +border plants, look quite as well on a rockery, if moisture can be given +them, as their flowers are so delicate, and the leaves so fragile and +prettily coloured, especially in the early spring. The blue and white _A. +cęrulea_, from the Rocky Mountains, is =a gem=, and the scarlet kinds are +very effective. + +=For forming close green carpets=, _arenaria balearica_ is most useful; it +creeps over rocks and stones, covering them completely with its moss-like +growth, and hiding any hard, unlovely surfaces. The _campanula_ family is +=a host in itself=, many of the smaller varieties looking better on a +rockery than anywhere else. Some of these tiny bell-flowers have, however, +the very longest of names! _C. portenschlagiana_, for instance, is only +four inches high, and =a charming little plant= it is, and flowers for +months, beginning about July. The blossoms are purple-blue in colour, and +continue right into November, unless very hard frosts come to stop it. _C. +cespetosa_ is another variety well suited to rock-work, as it is even +smaller than the last. + +=The alpine wall-flower=, _cheiranthus alpinus_, is a very choice little +plant; it has creamy-yellow flowers, borne on stalks a few inches high, +and, though each individual plant is biennial, they seed so freely that +they are practically perennial. A light, dry soil and a sunny situation +suits them; they will even grow on old walls, and very picturesque they +look perched up on some mossy old ruin. + +=An attractive rock plant=, though rarely seen, is _chrysogonum +virginianum_; its flowers are creamy-yellow, and grow in a very quaint +manner; this plant =blooms the whole season through=. Plants of this +character should be noted carefully, as they help to give a rockery =a +well-furnished appearance=, so that one always has something to show +visitors. + +For warm, dry, sunny nooks =rock-roses= are the very thing; where other +plants would be burnt up, the _cistus_ flourishes, for it requires no +particular depth of soil. _C. florentinus_ (white) and _C. crispus_ (dark +crimson), are two of the best. + +=One of the most exquisite and interesting rock-plants= I have ever seen +is _clematis davidiana_, a plant only introduced of recent years, but +noticeable wherever seen; it is not a climber, as its name might lead one +to suppose, for =it only grows two feet high=, and generally trails along +the ground; the flowers are curious in shape, and of a metallic blue-grey +colour; the foliage is very neat and pretty; it blooms about July, and +should be planted so that it can be examined closely. + +=The fumitories= are elegant plants, and nearly always in flower; the +blossoms are small, yellow, sometimes white, and borne in profusion +amongst the finely-cut foliage, which, =the whole summer through=, is a +bright clear green. With one plant of _corydalis lutea_ a stock can soon +be obtained, as this variety seeds freely. All the fumitories prefer a +light soil and a sunny position. + +Dwarf evergreen shrubs greatly improve the appearance of the rockery in +late autumn and winter, especially when they add berries to their +attractions. The _cotoneasters_ are evergreen, and when about a foot high +are very suitable for such a position. _C. horizontalis_ and _C. +micicrophylla_ bear scarlet berries, and are altogether very choice; they +must not be allowed to get too large, but taken up when little over a foot +high, and others substituted for them. + +=Various bulbs=, which we generally plant in the border, find a prettier +background in the rockery; here each bulb is made the most of, and, where +very small, is seen to greater advantage; even if ever so insignificant, +it cannot get buried away under a spadeful of soil, nor get splashed with +mud. You must often have noticed how crocuses get blown over and spoilt by +the wind, but in a cosy nook of the rock-work, planted fairly close +together, and in a "pocket" surrounded by bricks, they find a happy home, +and can be inspected without any difficulty. Personally, I do not care for +=crocuses in a line=; one cannot see their pure transparency, and only get +an idea of a broad band of colour; close at hand, their dewy chalices, +exquisitely veined and streaked, seem far more beautiful, particularly +where the finer sorts are selected. =All crocuses do not flower in +spring=; some of the prettiest species bloom in autumn, though many +people, seeing them at that time, imagine they are _colchicums_; the +latter, though certainly very decorative when in flower, are followed by +such coarse leaves that the crocus is decidedly preferable. + +The =hardy cyclamen= are very suitable for a rockery, as, being beauties +in miniature, they are apt to get lost in a mixed border. _C. +neapolitanum_ has marbled foliage and pretty pink flowers, and _C. +europeum_ (maroonish crimson) is also well worth growing; they must be +placed in a shady part, yet where the drainage is perfect; stagnant +moisture kills them. + +The =hardy orchids= should be tried too, especially the _cypripedium_; it +is not generally known how handsome some of them are; they like shade and +moisture; indeed, through the summer the peat they are growing in should +be a regular swamp, or they will fail to produce fine flowers. + +Another plant that likes peat is the little _daphne eneorum_. This is =an +evergreen=, and produces its pink fragrant flowers every spring; it will +not do in very smoky places, but, like the heath, must have a fairly pure +atmosphere. + +=The alpine pinks are treasures for the rockery=, and do well in town +gardens; they flower nearly all the summer, and are not particular as to +soil and position, though they prefer plenty of sun. + +=The gentians= look very well on rockwork, but like a stronger soil than +most alpines, loam suiting them best. Water should be generously given +during spring and summer. _G. acaulis_ is the best for amateurs. + +The red shades found in the =geum tribe= are very uncommon, being neither +crimson, scarlet, nor orange, but a mixture of all three, with a dash of +brown thrown in. They =flower continuously=, and have dull green woolly +foliage, which sets the flowers off well. They need a light, well-drained +soil. _Geum chilense_, or _coccineum plenum_, is a good kind, and so is +_G. miniatum_; both are about two feet high, but require no staking +whatever. Of course, it will be understood that sticks, except of the +lightest kind, are =quite inadmissible= on a rockery. + +=Helianthemums=, or =rock roses=, are charming little evergreen plants, +with wiry prostrate stems, and small flowers, which are freely produced +all the summer. They may be had in white, yellow, pink, scarlet, and +crimson, and either double or single; the variety named Mrs. C. W. Earle +is a very effective double scarlet, and quite a novelty. + +=Iris reticulata= is =a very fascinating little bulbous plant=, well +adapted for a rockery; it blooms in the early spring, and very beautiful +the flowers are, being rich violet-purple, with gold blotches on each +petal; they are scented, too; when in blossom, the stems reach to about +nine inches in height. + +One of the most lovely plants that can be imagined for a rockery is +=lithospermum prostratum=, and yet how rarely one sees it; the glossy +green leaves always look cheerful, and the flowers are exquisite, they +are a bright full blue, and each petal is slightly veined with red, it is +not difficult to grow, a dry, sunny position being all it requires; it is +of trailing habit and an ever-green. Everyone knows =the creeping jenny=, +but it is not to be despised for rock-work, especially for filling up odd +corners where other things will not thrive. It blooms best where there is +a certain amount of sun. + +=St. Dabeoc's Heath= is a pretty little shrub, very neat and of good +habit; its flowers are the true pink, shading off to white, and of the +well-known heath shape. Somewhat slow-growing, it prefers peat. + +=Plants that flower the whole season through= are most valuable on the +rockery. =OEnotheras= may be depended on to present a pleasing appearance +for several weeks, especially if all dead flowers are picked off. The +dwarf kinds are the most suitable, such as _Oenothera marginata_, +_missouriensis_, _linearis_, and _taraxacifolia_. The last-named, however, +is only a biennial, but has the advantage of =opening in the morning=, +while most of the evening primroses do not seem to think it worth while to +make themselves attractive till calling-hours. + +=The most fairy-like little plant= for filling up narrow crevices in sunny +quarters is the dear old =wood-sorrel=. It has tiny leaves like a shamrock +in shape, but of a warm red-brown colour, and the sweetest little yellow +flowers imaginable; they are borne on very short stalks, and only come out +when the sunshine encourages them; the whole plant does not exceed three +inches in height; it spreads rapidly, seeds freely, and thrives best in a +very light soil; it will also do well on walls. + +The =alpine poppies= are so delicate and graceful that they seem made for +the rockery. They only grow six inches high, and continue in flower at +least four months; they may be had in a great range of colours, and are +easily brought up from seed. Nice bushy plants can be had of these +poppies for about four shillings a dozen, and it is needless to say they +require plenty of sunshine. The word _phlox_ conveys to many people the +idea of a tall autumn-flowering plant, with large umbels of flowers, +individually about the size of a shilling. But these are not the only +species; the alpine varieties are just as beautiful in a different way, +though some are not more than a few inches high, and each flower no bigger +than a ladies' glove-button. In spring and early summer they become +=perfect sheets of bloom=, so that the foliage is completely hidden; when +out of flower, they are soft green cushions of plants, and serve to cover +bare bricks well. + +The =alpine potentillas= are pretty, and keep in flower for a long time. +_P. nepalensis_ is a good one, but the merits of _p. fruticosa_ are much +exaggerated, its dirty-looking yellow flowers are by no means +prepossessing. + +=No rockery is complete= without several specimens of the family of +_saxifrages_. One cannot do better than make a beginning with them, as +they are so fine in form and diverse in style. _S. aizoon compactum_ is +one of the best rosette species, and _S. hypnoides densa_ of the mossy +tribe; other kinds well worth growing are _S. burseriana_, which has +pretty white flowers on red hairy stems in early March; _S. cunifolia_, +with charming fresh pink blossoms, and of course _S. umbrosa_, the sweet +old-fashioned =London pride=. A dry sunny situation suits the _saxifrages_ +best. + +The =House leeks= are somewhat similar in appearance, but like drier +situations than the last-named plants. The _sempervivums_ delight to creep +along a piece of bare rock, and one marvels how they can derive enough +sustenance from the small amount of poor soil in which they are often seen +growing. The =cobweb species=, called _arachnoideum_, is most interesting, +and invariably admired by visitors; it has greyish-green rosettes, each +one of which is covered with a downy thread in the form of a spider's +web. A kind more often seen is _sempervivum montanum_, and certainly it is +a =very handsome species=, with curious flowers supported on firm +succulent red stems. It is to be seen in broad clumps at Kew, and very +well it looks. + +There are no better carpetters than the =dwarf sedums=, or =stone crops=. +_S. glaucum_ has blue-grey foliage, and spreads rapidly; _S. lydium_ is +the variety most in use, and can be had very cheaply. The tall, old +variety, _sedum spectabile_, has been improved upon, and the novelty is +called _S. s. rosea_. Another novelty is _shortia galacifolia_; it is a +native of North America, and has white, bell-shaped flowers supported on +elegant, hairy stems, the leaves are heart shaped, and turn almost scarlet +in autumn; thus, the plant has =two seasons of beauty=, as it blooms in +the spring. A peaty soil, with a little sand added, suits it well, if the +drainage is good; and it likes a half-shady position. + +=Plants that are sadly neglected= are the airy-fairy Sea-lavenders or +_Statices_, with their filmy heads like purple foam; _S. gmelini_ and _S. +limonium_ are two of the best. When cut, they last a long time, and are +very useful for giving a graceful appearance to =stiff bouquets=. + +The dwarf _thalictrums_ are =good rockery plants=; they are =grown for +their foliage=, which bears a striking resemblance to the maidenhair fern. +_T. adiantifolium_ and _T. minus_ are very pretty; their flower-heads +should always be cut off, so as to promote the production of their fine +fronds, which have the property of lasting well when cut. + +The =aromatic scent of thyme= is very pleasant on a rockery; not only +should the silver and golden varieties be grown, but also those bright +kinds which give us sheets of purple, pink, and white blossom during +summer; to thrive they must be exposed to full sunshine, when =they will +attract innumerable bees=. The new kind, _T. serpyllum roseus_, is +splendid, the tiny flowers coming in such profusion as to completely hide +the foliage. All are low-growing, having the cushion habit of growth. + +_Veronicas_ are not often seen, yet they are exceedingly pretty, and +continuous bloomers. =Amateurs should not begin with the shrub tribe=, as +these are somewhat tender, but if _V. incana_, _V. longifolia-subsessilis_, +and _V. prostrata_ are obtained, they will be sure to please. The first +and last are low-growing, but the other is two feet high, and has long +racenes like soft blue tassels, which hang down in the most charming way. + +=A few words on some more bulbs= that look well on rockeries, besides the +crocus and dwarf iris before-mentioned, may not be amiss: the =winter +aconites= are most appropriate so placed, and show to greater advantage +than in the level border. Their golden flowers, each surrounded by a frill +of green, come forth as early as January, if the weather be propitious. + +The _chionodoxa_, called also =glory of the snow=, is very fresh and +pretty, with its bright blue flowers having a conspicuous white eye. If +left undisturbed they will spread rapidly, and come up year after year +without any further trouble; they are =very cheap=, and will do in any +soil. + +=Snowdrops= are charming on rock-work, and may be placed close to the +_chionodoxa_, as they bloom almost together. + +The =grape-hyacinths= have very quaint little flowers of a bright +dark-blue colour, on stalks about five or six inches high; they flower for +some weeks, and must be massed together to get a good effect. + +=The early-flowering scillas= resemble the _chionodoxas_, but last much +longer in bloom. They are very =easy to manage=, and rarely fail to make a +good show. _S. siberica_ is the best-known variety, and can be obtained +very cheaply. + +=The miniature narcissus= is the sweetest thing imaginable; _N. minus_, is +only a few inches high, and when in the open border is apt to get +splashed, but amongst stones in a sheltered position on the rockery they +are charming. All these dwarf bulbs look so well in such positions, +because =their purity remains unsullied=. + +Here I will leave the rockery, merely intimating that =early autumn is the +best time for planting=, and that if pains are taken to construct it +properly at first, a great amount of trouble will be saved in the end. +Most of these plants and bulbs may be had of Messrs. Barr & Sons, 12, King +Street, Covent Garden. Their daffodil nurseries at Long Ditton, near +Surbiton, Surrey, are famous all the world over, but they also go in a +great deal for hardy perennials and rock plants, of which they have a +splendid stock; their prices are very reasonable, too, when you take into +consideration that everything they send out is absolutely true to name. +Their interesting catalogues will be sent post free on application. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +Trees, Shrubs, and How to Treat Them. + + _Some good plants for growing beneath them--Selection of hardy + shrubs--Enriching the soil--Climbers._ + + +Forest-trees in a small garden are somewhat out of place, but as they are +often found in such positions, I will deal with them here. It is to be +remembered that though they give most grateful shade, not only do they rob +everything beneath them of sunshine, but also =take so much out of the +soil=, that, unless constant renewals are made, very little can be grown +in their immediate vicinity; the class of plants that will do best beneath +their branches also find the soil they are growing in best renewed by the +leaves which fall therefrom. For the sake of tidiness, these of course are +swept away, but they should be kept for two or three years, and then +brought back, converted into =leaf-mould=; if this is not done, the +quality of the soil will steadily deteriorate, instead of getting richer, +as it does in woods; and this is one reason why so many wild plants fail +to thrive when brought into cultivation; manure is no substitute, but +often distasteful to them. + +=SOMETHING BESIDES IVY.= Trees must be divided into two broad sections, +=deciduous and ever-green=. Very few plants will do well under the latter, +but as regards the first, =ivy= is not by any means the only thing that +will grow, though it is often a good plan to use it as a foundation, and +work in plants here and there afterwards. There is no need to choose the +large kind; those elegant varieties with long pointed leaves are =more +ornamental and just as easy to grow=. Their roots must be restricted when +other plants are near, or they will soon take up all the room. =Ferns= +will do very well under trees, if they are plentifully watered during the +dry season. Here also a few of the choicest kinds should be grown, for +though some of them may not do so well as in a shady open spot, most of +them will give a fairly good account of themselves. Always plant them with +the rhizome above ground, not forgetting that when each fern has its full +complement of fronds, it will take up a considerably larger space than it +does at the time it is set out. + +If the _Osmunda regalis_ is tried--=the royal fern=--it is necessary to +get a good established turf of it; strong clumps cost about 1s. 6d. each; +plenty of water must be given it in the summer. I have seen it in splendid +form under a tree in a very small garden. + +Perhaps the =St. John's worts= come next to ivy and ferns in their +usefulness for planting under trees, as they are =always decorative, being +ever-green=. In the spring, the foliage is a most lovely soft apple-green, +and in summer when the golden cups filled with anthers issue forth from +the axils of the leaves, the effect is beautiful. _Hypericum calycinum_ is +the Latin term for these plants, and though they will do on the dryest +bank and in the poorest soil, being very tough and wiry, if they are grown +in good loam and manure is occasionally given them, they will repay with +far finer flowers, which will be produced for a longer season. + +=A good breadth of woodruff= makes a very pretty picture for several +weeks, and has a delightful scent; here and there bulbs can be planted +amongst it, neither being harmed by this plan. The _aubrietias_ =flower +with unfailing regularity= under trees, even when the aspect is north, and +no gleam of sunshine reaches them; their greyish-green rosettes resist +drought splendidly, and though these plants do not give us so much blossom +in unfavourable positions, still they make a very pretty show. +_Aubrietias_ can be easily propagated by division; every morsel grows. + +=BANKS UNDER TREES.= The white _arabis_ also does well under similar +conditions; both are useful for draping perpendicular surfaces, such as +the steep side of a bank or hedge. A raised border, with facing of bricks, +is rather a nice way of growing plants under trees, and the work of +tending them is pleasant, less stooping being required. + +The =mossy saxifrage= droops over the edges, and mingles well with the +_arabis_, but it must be more carefully watered, as it is apt to die out; +pieces should constantly be taken off, and dibbled in so as to fill up any +gaps. The =periwinkles= meander charmingly over the roughest stones, and +in the most dreary spots; their glossy ever-green leaves, and fresh bright +little flowerets =always looking cheerful= whatever the weather. They +creep quickly, rooting every few inches as they grow; on the perpendicular +face of the rock, succulent plants like =echeverias= can sometimes be made +to grow (those little green rosettes, having each leaf tipped with red, +which can be bought so readily in May for about twopence each). + +=Many things will do for a time=, that want renewing each year, even if +hardy. Cowslips, primroses, polyanthus, wallflowers, all will make a fair +show if planted out just before flowering, but, unless a few hours' sun +daily shines on them, they will not retain enough vitality to produce +seed, and being biennial soon die out, leaving not a trace behind. + +=A great many bulbs do admirably under deciduous trees=, especially those +which blossom before the new leaves on the branches above them have +reached any appreciable size. + +=Scillas= bloom in the same place year after year; snowdrops also do +fairly well, and lilies of the valley ring out a few of their dainty +bells every spring (a rich vegetable soil suits them best). =Tulips= only +do well when planted afresh every autumn; but, as they are so cheap, that +is not a great matter. The _megaseas_, mentioned in another chapter, give +forth many of their fine leaves, but they refuse to turn colour, owing to +the want of sun. Fox-gloves, also, grow and flower, seeming to enjoy their +position. + +=If the aspect of the space to be filled is a cold one=, such things as +geraniums will only give a few poor flowers, and then succumb. Even +pansies wilt and gradually fade away under trees, for their soft, weak +stems and leaves soon get drawn up for want of light, though they will do +well enough on an _open_ border, facing north. + +=Hard-wooded plants= will be generally found to do best; indeed, some of +the shrub tribe succeed very well, particularly barberry, _pernettyas_, +the early _daphnes_, whortleberries, _gaultheria shallon_ and +_cotoneaster_. + +While on the subject of =shrubs=, it may be as well to mention several +attractive kinds which may be planted in place of the =eternal box= and +Portugal laurel; of course, these two have almost every good quality; they +will do in any soil, are ever-green, and resist smoke, dust and dirt well; +but, in places where poor soil and a soot-laden atmosphere are absent, +=substitutes might occasionally be found for those shrubs=, which will +have the added charm of novelty. One of the nicest for small gardens is +_cotoneaster microphylla_; this is a joy to look at, all through the +winter months, when it is at its best; the branches grow in an uncommon +manner, and are of somewhat prostrate habit; they are thickly clothed with +dark, small leaves the whole way up the stem, and shining amongst them are +the pretty crimson, almost transparent berries. It is quite distinct from +the ordinary berry-bearing shrubs, as there is =nothing stiff about its +gracefully-curving sprays=, which look well cut and wedged in the +Japanese fashion. Shrubs of this variety may be had as low as sixpence, +but it is better policy to get a larger one, costing about eighteen pence, +as they will sooner be of a presentable size; they are shrubs, too, that +do not altogether show their capabilities when at a very youthful stage. + +=A GOOD ALL ROUND PLANT.= _Berberis aquifolium_ is another shrub which has +a great deal to recommend it; it is ever-green, and will do in almost any +position; it bears lovely yellow flowers in spring, purple powdered +berries in August, and the foliage turns a rich red in October. Always +ornate, it is one of the easiest shrubs to grow, and =just the thing for a +small garden=. + +=The myrtle=, though liable to be killed in a very hard frost, can often +be grown to a great size in a sheltered garden; I have seen bushes eight +yards round, in an exposed position near the river Thames, which must have +been braving the storms for many a year past. They should not be planted +out till March or April, though November is the month for most other +shrubs. The old _pyrus japonica_ =makes a good bush=, though most often +grow on a wall; its bright flowers, carmine-scarlet in colour with yellow +anthers in the centre, appear early in April, a week or two later than the +climbers, which of course are protected. When grown in bush form, it =is +sometimes pruned out of all recognition=; this is especially the case in +public gardens, and is quite an affliction to any one who knows how lovely +it can be! The knife should be restrained, allowing the _pyrus_ to take +its own shape as much as possible; it is often sold under the name of +_cydonia japonica_, as that is really its rightful title. + +=One or two of the _araucarias_ make very good shrubs for a small garden=; +they should not be grown in cold, wind-swept places, as their branches +soon turn brown if exposed to continued frost and furious blasts. There is +a magnificent specimen in the nurseries of Messrs. Veitch, Kingston Hill, +Surrey, planted about 1865; its ornamental appearance is greatly due to +the number of young branches springing out from the main trunk and almost +completely covering it; they nestle under the larger branches, and produce +a very picturesque effect. Small plants of this variety may be had for +three or four shillings. + +Messrs. Veitch have a splendid selection of shrubs, all in the best of +health; their hollies are well grown, and include all the good sorts; a +variety that bears fruit when quite young is _ilex glabrum_, of which they +have a large stock; these trees are such slow growers, that it is +advisable to get one that will look attractive almost at once. + +=Pernettyas are ornamental little shrubs=, not so much grown as they +deserve; in winter, when most things look drooping and unhappy, these +American visitors to our gardens are bright and cheerful. =The dwarf erica +carnea=, both pink and white, show their buds as early as November, and at +the turn of the year present a very pretty appearance; they look well as +edgings to rhododendron beds; their price is about sixpence each. + +=Another charming winter shrub= is _cornus sanguinea_; its beauty lies in +the red glow of its leafless stems, which makes it visible some distance +off. + +_Spirea Anthony Waterer_ is a =fine plant in late summer=, having pink +umbels of flowers and a habit somewhat like the valerian. =The snow-berry= +is good in autumn and winter, having large white berries which hang on a +long time; it is deciduous, and likes a rich soil. + +Messrs. Veitch have a splendid collection of conifers for all aspects and +positions; their small junipers are most fascinating little trees, with +flat spreading branches of the loveliest shade of green, and their +seedling firs are well balanced. They sell a great variety of lilac trees +too. + +=GRAFTED LILACS.= A note on lilacs will not be amiss; if you notice that +any lilacs you may happen to have flower sparsely, and are poor in size +and colour it will be as well to examine the stems close to the soil, and +you will probably find a fine crop of suckers; all these must be cut away +as sedulously as those on your rose-trees, for =nearly all lilacs are +grafted=, very few kinds being sold on their own roots. + +The _forsythias_ are =pretty climbers or shrubs=, according to the variety +chosen, much like the yellow jasmine, with its golden stars on leafless +stems. Just as the latter, however, is going out of flower the +_forsythias_ are coming on, and therefore give a succession of very pretty +blossoms. + +Originally from China, =the wigelias= have now taken a place in many +English gardens, by reason of their fresh pink and white flowers and easy +cultivation. They bloom late in spring, and should be placed by preference +=against a dark wall=, as their flowers, being surrounded by pale-green +foliage, do not stand out sufficiently on a light one. + +=THE DELICATE CEANOTHUS.= The exquisite summer-flowering _ceanothus_ has +been mentioned before, but I notice it here again because it is one of +those =shrubs that should not be overlooked= on any account; its leaves +are somewhat like those of a heliotrope, and its flowers are bluish-mauve +in colour and borne in trusses; it blooms for many weeks and has a most +delicious scent, and should be planted out in the spring. + +=A neglected but really remarkable shrub is the= _rhus cotinus_--=the +smoke plant.= In early August it is a striking sight, with its curious +inflorescence quite impossible to describe. At Hampton Court there are two +or three fine species. + +=WINTER SHRUBBERY.= It will be observed that shrubs presenting a +decorative appearance in winter are made much of; this is because +soft-wooded plants always look miserable then, whereas with a few +berry-bearing shrubs and a nice selection of bulbs, we may have a =pretty +garden all the year round=. Once planted, however, they should not be left +entirely to take care of themselves; the soil must be enriched +occasionally, if we wish for good results, and great care taken to =train +them in the way they should go=, by pinching out shoots which would tend +to give a lop-sided effect. Such things as firs must be unobtrusively +staked till they are able to support themselves, as =symmetrical growth= +is part of their charm, and we must remember that "as the twig is bent, +the tree is inclined." =Standard rhododendrons= require to be very +carefully staked until they have a fair hold of the ground, or their big +heads are caught by the wind, and this loosens the soil to such an extent +that it is impossible for fresh roots to be made. Generally, some of the +=bush rhododendrons= should be grown amongst the standards, and if these +are dotted about with clumps of lilies the effect is very rich. _Lilium +tigrinum splendens_ is =one of the best for this purpose=, and is most +brilliantly beautiful during August and September; they are six feet in +height, and the flowers are a rich orange red, with black spots on each +petal; they can be obtained for half-a-crown the dozen. + +=A lily suitable for placing amongst azaleas=, as it is only three feet +high, is _lilium speciosum album_; it has glistening pure-white flowers, +and a graceful habit. The shade of the shrub is most beneficial to the +lilies, as they dislike strong sunshine, and of course they are also +protected from cold in winter. The same soil, a mixture of peat, loam and +sand, suits both. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +=The Ins and Outs of Gardening= + + _Planting--Watering--"Puddling"--Aspect--Shelter--Youth and age in + relation to plants--Catalogue defects--A time for everything._ + + +Now that we have seen what to plant, it will be advisable to learn =how to +plant it=. + +Perhaps the most important point to be taken notice of is the necessity of +=firm planting=. Watch how a clever gardener presses the earth well round +the roots of everything he puts in, where the plants are large, treading +the soil down with his foot. =Loose planting is ruinous= (except in a few +isolated cases), and yet it is a favourite practice with amateurs, who +call it treating their flowers tenderly! But, as with the human kind, =a +judicious mixture of firmness and tenderness= is the happy medium to be +aimed at, and which alone insures success. + +=A good watering= helps to make the soil settle as much as anything; +therefore, when put into the ground the plants should be well soaked, +after which they should be left for a few days, with the exception of +=overhead watering=, which is most refreshing. In very hot weather, it is +often possible to transplant with perfect safety, if the roots are put +into "puddle." + +=PLANTING IN "PUDDLE."= "Puddle" is a very expressive gardening term, +which signifies soil mixed with so much water as almost to have acquired +the consistency of a paste. =Operation 1=--well water the plant to be +removed; =operation 2=--dig the hole which is to receive it; =operation +3=--fill the same with water up to the rim; =operation 4=--carefully take +up your plant with plenty of soil round it; =operation 5=--gently place it +in hole prepared, the walls of which will then be thoroughly soaked; +=operation 6=--fill in with the "puddle" above referred to; =operation +7=--tread gently but firmly down; and, lastly, scatter a little dryer soil +on the top. Flowers planted in this fashion can be taken up even during +June, July and August; and, if properly looked after, will scarcely flag +at all. + +=EFFECTS OF ASPECT.= The influence of aspect on plants is an interesting +study; we all know that a shrub on a south wall is practically in a +different climate to a shrub on a north wall. One reason why tender plants +do so well on a =south or west aspect= is because the sun does not reach +it till some hours after it has risen and warmed the air. The =sun shining +on half-frozen buds= often has a disastrous effect on plants climbing +walls with an eastern aspect; consequently, a north wall is often better +for a delicate plant, if the warmest aspect cannot be given it; camellias, +for instance, when outside prefer it to any other. =If a succession of one +kind of flower is desired=, a group facing each corner o£ the compass will +often accomplish this, sometimes as much difference as a month being +noted. Certain unimpressionable plants refuse to alter their season of +blooming, but, as a rule, it is a sure method of attaining this object. +=Colouring is also vastly influenced by aspect=; such things as pansies, +for example, never show such rich markings under a hot sun, but require an +east border to bring out their true beauties. Scotland suits them +admirably, with its cool summer nights and moist atmosphere. + +=THE IMPORTANCE OF SHELTER.= Shelter has a great deal to do with success +in a garden; in the ordinary town garden, the builder has generally been +only too obliging in this respect, but in bleak hilly spots it might +almost be called the gardener's watchword. Few things except Scotch firs +and the like will stand a =long-continued high wind= with impunity; not +only does it wrench the plants out of the soil, but, if it comes from a +cold quarter, both flowers and leaves curl up at its approach and refuse +to thrive; they become nipped in the bud, as at the touch of frost. +Everyone has experienced the meaning of shelter when out in a cold +nor'-easter; how it bites one, making the blood stand still with its fury! +then, all at once, we round the corner, and hey presto! all is changed; +the air is quite caressing, and the blood tingles to our very finger-tips +from the sudden reaction. With due regard to shelter, then, =climates can +be "manufactured" without glass=. In extensive grounds, these wind-breaks +are made by planting lines of trees, but in smaller spaces it may be done +differently. The construction of =light fences=, not over five feet in +height, run up inside the compound, accomplish a good deal, as may be seen +by any visitor to the nurseries of Messrs. Barr, at Long Ditton; they are +=not ugly if well clothed=, and make an effectual break in a much shorter +time than would be the case if fruit-trees were planted, though there is +nothing prettier than a row of apple or pear trees, grown espalier +fashion, if time is no object. Many things will nestle beneath them, and +flower beautifully for months together, for, though these fruit-trees are +deciduous, the force of the wind is considerably lessened by them, on the +same principle that =fishing-nets are such a protection from frost= to +wall-climbers; and this again may be compared to the veils which ladies +use to protect their skin. Though of wide mesh, the fishing-nets will keep +off five or six degrees of frost, and in certain cases are better than a +closer protection, like tiffany, which sometimes "coddles" the trees too +much. + +=A few words on the respective qualities of youth and age= may not be +amiss. Amateurs are so often disappointed in their garden purchases, +because they will not allow the plants sufficient time to demonstrate +their capabilities. =Catalogues are much to blame= in this respect; an +enticing description of a shrub is given, and the confiding amateur orders +it, believing that in a year or two it will fulfil its character. How can +he be expected to know that that particular variety never bears any +flowers worth speaking of till it is at least seven years old! In the long +run, I think nurserymen will find it pay to tell the whole truth regarding +each plant they send out, not merely in a negative way either. If an +alpine, for example, like _linnea borealis_, is extremely difficult to +grow and flower in this country, it is only fair to say so; to place it +amongst a lot of easily-cultivated plants without a word of warning is +=not straightforward dealing=, moreover is apt to make people disgusted +with the whole thing. Some plants bloom much the best when in their first +youth; this is the case with many of the soft-wooded plants, which soon +give signs of exhaustion, especially in a light soil. When it is noticed +that the outside flowering stems produce finer blossoms than those from +the centre, it is generally =a sign that division is required=, and that +the soil wants enriching. + +=THE CALENDAR.= That there is =a time for everything in gardening= is +almost a truism; the calendar is considered one of the most important +parts of a technical book on this subject. It is advisable for an amateur +gardener to =have a note-book=, in which he jots down what he has to do +several weeks or months in advance; so often some fault easily remedied is +left over from year to year, because perhaps it is only observed in the +summer, and cannot be mended till winter. Recently, the calendar has not +been given quite so much prominence; gardeners find out more and more that +the weather is not governed by it, and that though one year it may be best +to sow a certain seed at the beginning of February, another season may be +so cold that it will have to go in at least a fortnight later. +Nevertheless, taken roughly, this diary of events, as the dictionary calls +it, holds good for most years, and it is wise to stick to it as far as +possible. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +The Profitable Portion + + _Fruit--The best kinds for a small garden--Avoidance of size minus + flavour--Vegetables--Herbs._ + + +If a small garden has room for any fruit-trees, =apples are the most +useful= kind to grow; they can be so trained as to take up little room; +for instance, in _espalier_ fashion, down each side of a sunny walk. These +=apple-hedges= are a lovely sight in spring and also in the autumn, when +the ruddy fruit is waiting to drop into the outstretched hand. Though +names can easily be given, it is generally a good plan to =make enquiries +in the neighbourhood as to the best varieties= to grow, for so much +depends on soil and position. Colloquial names are often given, which +require identifying with existing varieties; this can be done by sending +up a specimen of the fruit to the manager of a correspondence column in +some reliable gardening magazine. These gentlemen are generally able to +give the desired information, and no charge is made. =A surer method= +still is to send the fruit which it is desired to identify to some +well-known nurseries, such as those of Messrs. Rivers at Sawbridgeworth, +Hertfordshire; they have acres upon acres of splendid fruit-trees of every +kind, and my readers cannot do better than purchase all they require from +them. Having such wide experience, they can recommend varieties suitable +for all kinds of soil and all sorts of positions. For small gardens, +apple-trees grafted on =the paradise stock= are much to be recommended, as +they are compact in habit, taking up but little room and =begin bearing +almost at once=. Messrs. Rivers guarantee their trees on this stock to +continue in full-bearing for many years. "Plant pears, and you plant for +your heirs" is the old saying, but this is all changed now that the +=quince stock= is used so much. _Cordon_ pears on wire fencing bear +first-rate crops, and are particularly good for small gardens; the +diagonal cordon is perhaps the best. =Cooking pears= can be grown on north +walls, but it is not advisable to try dessert varieties on such a cold +aspect. + +=STONE FRUIT.= To grow stone fruit successfully, =the soil must contain a +fair quantity of lime=; moreover the trees, especially if trained against +walls, must be kept well-watered at the stoning period. After the fruit +has been picked, less moisture is required. + +=Standard plants are very profitable=, as crops of currants and +gooseberries can be grown beneath them; this double system of cropping the +ground being a great advantage where space is a consideration. =Plums= +require little pruning, and are also not so liable to attacks of birds as +other fruit. When ordering, =do not get too many trees of one variety=, a +good selection will give a long succession of fruit; this applies to all +kinds of fruit-trees. + +=Currants are a very manageable fruit=, as they do well in almost any +position; heavy crops can be secured from bushes planted on north borders, +the =black currant= thriving though it only gets a minimum of sunshine; +=gooseberries= are not exacting either, and will give a good return for a +small amount of labour. Both may be propagated by cuttings, and are very +reasonable in price, only costing about four shillings a dozen. Messrs. +Rivers' stock of =maiden peach-trees= and =nectarines= is unsurpassed, and +many of the best kinds obtainable have been raised by them, and are of +worldwide fame. Regarding that oft-debated question of protecting the +blossom in spring, they do not advise anything in the nature of bracken to +be used, this often doing more harm than good. If possible, =a glass +coping= should be placed along the top of the wall, from which tiffany +can depend on cold nights; unless this be done, it is best to leave them +alone. Fine crops are often obtained in the south and west of England +without any protection whatever, the good seasons amply compensating for +the bad. + +It occasionally happens that the amateur has an advantage over the market +grower. This is particularly the case where one wants to curtail the +=depredations of birds=; it pays to protect a few yards of fruit, but +where it is a case of several acres, the trees have to take their chance. +=Cherries= have to be watched very carefully in this respect; it is very +desirable to keep the =Morello cherries= hanging long, as they then become +sweeter and make good tarts. These trees do very well on north walls. + +=WANT OF FLAVOUR.= One great fault noticeable in fruit-growing of recent +years is that everything is sacrificed to size and appearance, flavour +being at a discount; the shows have had a great deal to do with this; in +the old days, when they were fewer in number, the test of a fruit was its +taste. =Strawberries= in particular have deteriorated in this way, the +huge kinds now seen often being absolutely devoid of the luscious flavour +generally associated with them. Of course we have =better keeping +varieties=, and they can be obtained much later than was once the case. If +the culture of the perpetual varieties is extended strawberries will be in +season many weeks longer, and this will be extremely good news for +invalids, who find it as a rule one of the easiest fruits to digest. =The +cultivation of strawberries is fairly easy=, but their wants must be +regularly attended to. Once in three years the old plants must be taken +up, and new ones (the "runners" issuing from the old) planted instead; in +the summer a good mulching of strawy manure should be placed between the +rows, as this helps to keep the fruit clean, besides enriching the soil. +Plants which are expected to bear a good crop of fruit must have all their +runners cut off as fast as they appear, as it exhausts the plants much to +bear both. =Strawberries are partial to rather a light soil=, but nearly +all other fruit-trees revel in a mixture of loam and clay, with a little +sand to keep it open. This soil does not suffer so much from drought, and, +being firmer, the larger trees can send their roots down and get a far +better hold of the ground than is possible in shingly, poor soils. + +=ORNAMENTAL AND USEFUL.= =Vegetables= take up a good deal of room in a +garden if they are wanted all the year round, but a few things can be +easily grown. =Scarlet runner beans=, being ornamental as well as useful, +are some of the best vegetables to grow, as they can be made to form a +convenient screen for a rubbish heap. These can be brought up from seed +sown early in April, and, when a foot high, require sticks; these come +rather expensive if new ones are used every summer, but with care they +will last two and even three seasons, though latterly they become very +brittle. On the rubbish heap, =marrows= can be grown with the greatest +facility, as they revel in the rich warmth there found. They should be +bought when a few inches high, and planted out at the end of May, as they +are only half hardy. When the flower at the end drops off they are ready +to cut; if allowed to get much larger they lose all their flavour. A few, +however, should be allowed to become quite ripe, as they can be used in +the autumn for making apple-tart, two parts apple to one part marrow, and +they also make =a good jam= when spiced with ginger, etc. + +=RELATIONS OF THE SUNFLOWERS.= =Jerusalem artichokes= will flourish on a +north border, and come in very nicely during November; they are planted in +exactly the same manner as potatoes, that is, by means of pieces +containing two or three "eyes," which should go in about February. Like +potatoes, too, they can be stored; though so tall, they do not require any +sticks; these artichokes present much the same appearance as the ordinary +cottager's sun-flower (indeed, the botanical name is identical, +_helianthus_), having thick, hollow stems, covered with long, pointed, +hairy leaves. + +=Potatoes are rather "kittle-kattle"= for amateurs, but where the soil is +light they should certainly be tried, especially where there is room for a +rotation of crops, as successive planting should not be made in the same +place. Beware of giving rank manure to them, a sure precursor of disease; +artificial manures, such as guano are far more suitable. =No trees must be +allowed near them=, but a sunny open piece of ground be given up to them. +March is the month to plant and the rows should be from fifteen inches to +two feet apart. + +=Carrots and turnips= also prefer a light soil and sunny situation. Seeds +of both should be sown in March, when the soil is in a friable condition, +several times subsequently; the seeds must be well thinned out, and the +space between the rows constantly turned by the hoe; the latter operation +is particularly needful in heavy land, as it not only destroys weeds, but +prevents the soil from caking: the rows should be about a foot apart. +Before the turnips are ready, the young green tops make a vegetable by no +means to be despised. + +=Herbs=, such as mint, parsley, mustard and cress, should be grown in +every garden, as they take up but little space and are so much dearer to +buy. =Mint= is perennial, and will come up year after year, giving no +trouble whatever; it spreads rapidly and will grow anywhere. To start a +bed, roots can be bought from some market-gardener, or cuttings can be +struck from the bunches bought in the shops. + +=Parsley= is a biennial, though generally grown as an annual, because the +leaves from young plants are much the best; the seeds should be sown two +or three times a year, beginning about February, in a sheltered nook; +=this herb likes plenty of sun=; even the curliest varieties degenerate +if placed in a damp shady situation. It prefers light soil, and gives a +better winter supply than where the soil is heavy. Flower-heads must be +cut off regularly to keep the plants in good condition, though just a few +of the best kinds may be allowed to perfect their seed, which should be +sown as soon as ripe. =Mustard and cress= should also be sown several +times during the summer; the cress must be sown three or four days before +the mustard, to obtain them ready for cutting at the same time; both must +be cut almost directly they appear, as, if allowed to grow tall, they +become tough, and their flavour is lost; these seeds require no thinning +out, the exception that proves the rule. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +Annuals and Biennials + + _How to grow annuals--Some good kinds--Some good biennials._ + + +Many amateurs look upon annuals as rubbishy things to grow, and only +suitable for the children's gardens, but that is because they have +generally failed to grow them properly. With the improved kinds now in +cultivation, it is possible to make the portion of the flower-garden +devoted to them "a thing of beauty" if not "a joy for ever." As it is more +satisfactory to bring them up from the beginning, I have described in +Chapter XVI. a method generally successful. =Seed-sowing out-of-doors= +being rather precarious, I have found it advisable to =sow all the smaller +seeds either in a green-house or frame=, however hardy the annual be. This +not only saves endless trouble in the way of protecting the seed from +birds, etc., but is advantageous in that one has an earlier display of +bloom, owing to the growth being quicker under glass. Below is a table of +the choicest kinds:-- + +ANNUALS. + + NAME. LENGTH. COLOUR. + + Bartonia aurea 1 to 1-1/2 ft. Golden yellow. + + Celosia plumosa 1-1/2 ft. Red and yellow. + (Somewhat after the style of Prince's feather; tender.) + + Coreopsis (or Calliopsis) 2 ft. Yellow and red. + + Eschscholtzia 1 ft. Bright yellow. + (Very pretty grey-green foliage; select.) + + Gaillardia 1-1/2 ft. Yellow and red. + (The "blanket flower"; good for cutting.) + + Godetia 9 ins. Red to white. + (Cup-shaped; showy.) + + Mesembryanthemum 1/2 to 1 ft. Ice plant. + (Grown for its foliage, which glistens beautifully; must have sun.) + + Ionopsidium acaule 2 to 3 ins. Pale mauve. + (Miniature plants for filling up crevices in rockwork.) + + Linum coccineum 1 ft. New scarlet variety. + + Lupinus arboreus, + "Snow-queen" 3 to 4 ft. Pure white. + (A very stately plant; new.) + + Nemophila grandiflora 1/2 ft. Beautiful blue and white. + (Remind one of the eyes of a child.) + + Phlox drummondi 1 ft. All shades of red to white + (Half-hardy; must be massed.) + + Shirley poppy 1 ft. All shades of pink. + (Very graceful and free; light soil.) + + Portulaca 1/2 ft. Mixed colours. + (The most effective of all annuals; half-hardy; must have plenty of + sun and a light soil.) + + Salpiglossis 1-1/2 ft. All shades. + (Very fragile flowers, veined and marked in exquisite fashion; must + be massed.) + + Silene pendula compacta 1/2 ft. Bright pink. + (Flowers shaped somewhat like a Maltese cross.) + + Stocks, double, ten-week 1 ft. Various. + (When thinning, only keep the weakest seedlings, as those are the + double ones.) + + +BIENNIALS. + +These, if sown one spring, will not flower the following summer, but do so +the year after. + + NAME. LENGTH. COLOUR. + + Fox-gloves 3 to 4 ft. White and coloured + (White, most picturesque; all do well in shade; unless seed is required, + cut out main stem, when side shoots will flower.) + + Lunaria biennis 1-1/2 to 2 ft. The old "honesty." + (Much prized for its silvery seed-pods.) + + Polyanthus 1/2 ft. Mixed colours. + (Admirable for shady places; water well.) + + Japanese pinks 1 ft. Deepest crimson to white. + (Fringed petals; a whole bed of this is lovely.) + + Sweet Williams 1 ft. Mixed shades. + (Auricula type, the best; there is a novelty, blackish-maroon in shade, + which should be placed amongst some of the crimson varieties.) + + Snap-dragons 2 ft. Varied. + (Flower from June to November; eschew reds of a mauve hue.) + + Wallflower, "Ruby Gem" 2 ft. Reddish violet. + +The seeds of all these, true to name and ripe for germination, may be +obtained from Messrs. Barr, Long Ditton, Surrey, who sell sixpenny packets +of all these kinds; small quantities of the well-known sorts only costing +threepence. This is a =great advantage to owners of small gardens=, as one +does not wish to give 1s. 6d. or 2s. 6d. for perhaps two thousand seeds of +one variety, when only two or three dozen are required. Penny packets of +seeds may be had from the One and All Company at most greengrocer's, and +are really wonderful value for the money. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +Window Boxes + + _How to make them--Relation of box to residence they are intended to + adorn--Suitable soil--Window plants for different aspects._ + + +Where gardens are small, one seems to need window boxes more than where +there is land and to spare. They add to the number of one's flowers, and, +if carefully looked after, decidedly =improve the appearance of a house=. +That is a large "If" though, for unkempt boxes only make it look untidy. + +=FLOWERS FIRST, BOX SECOND.= Though the tiled sort obtain a good deal of +patronage, nothing really looks much better than boxes covered with virgin +cork, if constantly renewed, for it acts as =a foil to the flowers=, +whereas patterned tiles are rather apt to take one's attention away from +them. In summer, certainly, they have the advantage of preserving the +earth in a moist condition, and in smoky towns they help to give a bright, +clean look to the houses so decorated. Old-fashioned houses, however, +should always have their window boxes made in the virgin cork style, as +they accord better with their surroundings. + +When strong wooden boxes have been procured, it is quite easy to tack on +the cork one's self, provided one has a sharp knife and a good supply of +long nails, and it is =most fascinating work=; it is advisable to wear +gloves during the process, as the hands may become rough otherwise. Seven +pounds of the cork may be had for a shilling of any seedsman, and three +lots will do two boxes of the average size. =The soil should be fairly +light=, like that used for potting, but before the boxes are filled, +several holes, bored with a red-hot poker, should be made in the bottom, +and a thin layer of "crocks" spread over them; do not quite fill the box +with soil, but leave an inch or two free to allow of watering, and even +more if a layer of moss or =cocoa-nut fibre= is used to cover the surface +of the soil; this is certainly an improvement till the plants get large +enough to cover it themselves. Only =artificial manures= must be used to +fertilize the roots, and even those must not be given too often, but only +in the hot weather, when growth is quick, as they are stimulating to a +great degree. + +=Constant renewals are necessary=, if the boxes are to look gay all the +year round; even the best gardeners acknowledge this. If continuous +bloomers are chosen, however, the cost is considerably modified. Perhaps +the =winter shrubs= are the most expensive item; yet they are often chosen +without much regard to cheerfulness; indeed, the favourite kinds present a +most funereal appearance. + +=Aspect= has always a good deal to do with the selection of plants, but in +the case of windows facing north and east, it is the cold winds more than +the absence of sun which restricts the choice. Shelter is a great factor +in their well-being. + +=SHOWY IN WINTER.= In a cosy box with a western exposure, and protected on +the north, the golden-tipped _retinosporas_ make =a pretty show during the +cold months= of the year, and form a welcome change from the prevailing +dark green tones. _Cotoneasters_, _pernettyas_, and the variegated +_euonymus_ are also very suitable. The polypody ferns, being evergreen, +look very well too, and =will thrive facing all four points of the +compass=. In the spring, =dwarf wall-flowers=, interspersed with different +kinds of bulbs, make the boxes look bright, and the new _pyrus maulei_ is +also very pretty at this season. The =perennial candytuft=, too, is a +splendid flower for late spring, particularly _iberis correafolia_, which +has a neat habit, and bears quantities of snow-white flowers; it likes +sun, and not too much moisture. The =yellow jasmine=, which is so pretty +in winter, looks extremely well when allowed to droop over the edges of a +box, as it flowers in quite a young state. The mossy _saxifrages_ are +suitable for the edges of the box, and are always ornamental; their +charming white flowers, supported on red stalks, appear about May. + +Such =bulbs= as the Duc Van Thol tulips are very bright, and mix well with +the shrubs; they should be put in some time in October. =Crocuses= look +well, too, but should not be placed in the same box as the tulips, or too +gaudy an appearance will result. A thick planting along the front of the +box of the Starch hyacinth--_muscari_--is =uncommon=, and an exceedingly +nice thing to have, as the moment the window is open fragrant whiffs, +resembling new-mown hay, pour into the room, especially on a sunny +morning. When these bulbs have to make way for the summer flowers, it is +advisable to plant them out in the garden and use another lot next year, +as the =constant transplantation somewhat weakens them=. Of course, one +could leave them in the box during the summer, if it were not for the +unsightly decaying leaves, which =must on no account be cut off=. + +About the middle of May for the South of England, and a fortnight later +for the North, is the time to furnish the boxes for the summer. If the +window is small, low-growing plants and trailers should prevail. + +=FOR COLD ASPECTS.= Some good flowers for north and east aspects are +_fuschias_, _calceolarias_, _begonias_, and the lovely white _campanula +isophylla_; the latter thrives best in such conditions, bearing finer +flowers for a much greater length of time than where the sun scorches it. +=These plants accord well with stucco=, which serves to show up their +whiteness more than anything. =Marguerites=, yellow and white, also thrive +in the cooler windows of a house, and are not so exigent in the matter of +watering when so placed. When selecting =begonias= for boxes it is well to +choose the single varieties with moderate-sized blossoms; the big flabby +ones soon become spoilt by rain, and are not produced so freely, nor is +their habit of growth so good. + +=For hot situations= the double geraniums are splendid, but they should +not be mixed with lobelias, as they look infinitely better when grouped by +themselves, the shades ranging from dark crimson to the palest +salmon-pink. + +=PRETTY TRAILERS.= The quick-growing _tradescantia_ with its many-jointed +stems and glossy bright green leaves, softens =the somewhat formal +appearance of the geraniums=, and will cover all the bare soil in a +marvellously short space of time, and droop over the edges in long +streamers; it is quite distinct from the tall _tradescantias_ mentioned in +a former chapter, and is the easiest thing in the world to propagate, as +any little bits saved over from a bouquet will make roots in a bowl of +water, or they can be "struck" in the ordinary way in a pot under glass. +The variegated _tradescantia_ is =a very choice trailer=, but a little +more tender than the other, and requires a sunny position, while the plain +green variety will do anywhere outside in the summer, even growing well +under trees. + +=For autumn= there are the =hardy chrysanthemums=, and if dwarf varieties +with fibrous roots are chosen, a very good show can be made with these +till the middle or end of November. The protection afforded them by the +house keeps them in good condition longer than when they are in the open, +especially when a thin veiling, such as tiffany, is afforded them on cold +nights. Even newspapers will keep out several degrees of frost, and form a +very cheap method of protection. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +Table Decoration and Flowers in Season + + _Graceful arrangement--How to manage thick-skinned + stems--Colour-schemes--Bad colours for artificial light--Preserving + and resuscitating--Table of flowers in season._ + + +The fashion of decorating tables to the extent now done is of +comparatively recent date. When the duties were taken off the importation +of foreign flowers, they became so much lower in price that the great +middle-class could afford to buy some even in mid-winter. In the British +Isles themselves, too, the carriage of flowers is much cheaper and more +expeditious, though there is plenty of room for improvement still in that +respect. =The manner of arranging= them has much altered, for, instead of +cramming a clumsy vase to its utmost limits with a dozen different flowers +of as many shades, only one, two, or at most three, kinds are now used, +and these are set out in as =graceful and airy= a manner as possible. +=Plain glass vases=, as a rule, show the blossoms off best, though pale +green or ruby occasionally looks very well. The water need not be changed +every day in all cases; it depends on the flower; wall-flowers, for +instance, turn the water putrid very soon, while it keeps fresh much +longer where roses are concerned. =The vases should, however, be filled up +once a day=, as the stems suck up moisture rapidly. Hard-wooded flower +stalks should receive special attention, or they will droop directly. + +=STEM-SPLITTING.= Lilac, when cut and placed in water will absorb no more +moisture than a lead pencil, unless the stems are split up; this can be +done either with a hammer or a knife or both. As many leaves as possible +should be left on the stems, for when under water they largely help to +make the blossoms last well; it is only where the stalks are nearly +leafless that the splitting and peeling is necessary. + +=Maidenhair fern may be made to last= much longer if the end of the black, +wiry stem is hammered for about an inch up. + +It must not be forgotten that =cutting from a plant strengthens it=, and +induces it to continue sending up flower-stalks. People often seem chary +of cutting their roses with any length of stem, I suppose because it has +leaves and shoots all the way up, but this is an error; they should be cut +with about eight or ten inches of stalk; pansies and _violas_ also look +much more natural when a portion of the shoot is cut along with each +blossom. + +=BY PARCEL POST.= On hot summer days, when flowers are to be sent by post, +=they should be picked early in the morning=, several hours before they +are to be sent off, and placed in bowls of water; then, if they are packed +close together in tin, wood, or even card-board boxes they will arrive +quite fresh at their destination, where otherwise they would be hopelessly +faded. When a box of flowers is received, the contents should be put =in +luke-warm water= in a dim light for an hour or so; they can then be +re-arranged in the vases they are intended to occupy. + +=BLUE--A DAYLIGHT COLOUR.= Some colours respond to artificial light much +better than others. =Most shades of blue are not suitable for decorating +dinner tables=, because they turn almost brown, or at best a dull mauve. +In choosing violets, therefore, for evening wear, it will be found that +the blossoms which have thin, rather washed-out petals of the lightest +purple will look best, the full blue not being nearly so effective. =For +luncheon=, an arrangement of purple clematis in vases on the palest pink +ground is lovely, but does not look quite so well by gas-light, though +here again if the least velvety flowers are chosen for evening, a good +effect can be obtained. + +=Yellow is a splendid evening colour=, but must be bright, or it will look +merely cream. A dining-room panelled in light oak, adorned with yellow +marguerites alone, is very pleasing to the eye. In the spring, =laburnum +makes a novel dressing for a dining-table=; care, however, must be +exercised with this flower, as the pods are poisonous. Blue also looks +well with brown in the day-time; larkspurs, forget-me-nots, _plumbago_, +_campanulas_, _nemophilla_, etc., all look very well. We know how artistic +blue porcelain is on oak shelves, and, if the flowers have a white eye or +are veined with white, the effect is somewhat the same. =Scarlet is a good +gas or electric light colour=, but it must be used judiciously, and as a +rule only be mixed with white, just as the ladies at a regimental ball are +generally only allowed to robe themselves in this pure shade. + +=SIMPLICITY.= Now-a-days the decorations are rarely made so high that one +cannot see the other side of the table. Though this arrangement might +occasionally be useful in hiding the face of an enemy, on the whole it was +found inconvenient; accordingly they have climbed down; the "bazaar-stall" +fashion is also disappearing, and flat table-centres are used instead, or +none at all. Simplicity is the great cry now, and though of course it may +be costly, a charming effect is obtained with fewer flowers than was +formerly considered correct, and is moreover easily imitated by an +artistic eye in less expensive blossoms. + +Some of the flowers to be had in each respective season are enumerated on +p. 86. It will be noticed that where plenty of out-door blossoms are to be +had, the hot-house varieties are omitted. + + +TABLE OF NATURAL AND FORCED FLOWERS FOR EACH MONTH. + +JANUARY. + +_Natural._ + + Christmas rose. + Yellow jasmine. + +_Forced._ + + Carnations. + Eucharis. + Gardenias. + Poinsettias. + Tuberoses. + Late chrysanthemums. + Roman hyacinths. + Odontoglossum (orchid). + Tulips. + Violet, single and double. + Narcissus. + + +FEBRUARY. + +_Natural._ + + Christmas roses. + Yellow jasmine. + Daphne. + Snowdrops. + +_Forced._ + + White lilac. + Carnation. + Hyacinths. + Tulips. + Geraniums. + Marguerites. + Cattleya (orchid). + Camellias. + Roses. + Dicentra. + Narcissus. + + +MARCH. + +_Natural._ + + Violets. + Early narcissus. + Almond blossom. + Cowslips. + Polyanthus. + +_Forced._ + + Freesias. + Lily of the valley. + Arums. + Narcissus. + Mauve lilac. + Anemones. + Lilium Harrisii. + " longiflorum. + Roses. + Azaleas. + + +APRIL. + +_Natural._ + + Daffodils. + Wallflowers. + Forget-me-not. + Tulips. + Alyssum. + Anemones. + Doronicums. + +_Forced._ + + Sweet peas. + Roses. + Carnations. + Arums. + Lilies of the valley. + Alliums. + Acacia. + Epacris. + + +MAY. + +_Natural._ + + Laburnum. + Poet's eye narcissus. + Doronicums. + Trollius. + Iris. + Parrot tulips. + Lilies of the valley. + Syringa. + Lilac. + Ranunculus. + +_Forced._ + + Arums. + Ixias. + Gladiolus (scarlet and white). + + +JUNE. + +_Natural._ + + Sweet peas. + Roses. + Pinks. + Pyrethrums (single). + Larkspurs. + Canterbury bells. + Penstemons. + Lilies. + Columbines. + Flag iris and other iris. + + +JULY. + +_Natural._ + + Clematis. + Montbretias. + St. John's wort. + Campanulas. + Poppies (to be picked in the bud). + Carnations. + Cornflowers. + Indian pinks. + Erigeron (like an early Michaelmas daisy). + Gladiolus. + + +AUGUST. + +_Natural._ + + Clematis. + Coreopsis. + Gaillardias. + Snapdragons. + Sunflowers. + Gladiolus. + Dahlias. + Roses. + Carnations. + + +SEPTEMBER. + +_Natural._ + + Michaelmas daisies. + Pinks. + Chrysanthemums. + Lilies. + Sunflowers. + Japanese anemones. + Roses. + +_Forced._ + + Tuberoses. + Cattleyas. + Eucharis. + Gardenias. + + +OCTOBER. + +_Natural._ + + Michaelmas daisies. + Chrysanthemums. + Physalis (or Cape gooseberry). + Violets. + Single Marigolds. + +_Forced._ + + Salvias. + Marguerites. + Tuberoses. + Eucharis. + Odontoglossum. + Cattleya. + Bouvardia. + Roses. + Carnations. + + +NOVEMBER. + +_Natural._ + + Michaelmas daisies. + Chrysanthemums. + The gladwin iris (berries). + Violets. + +_Forced._ + + Eucharis. + Geraniums. + Marguerites. + Salvias. + Carnations. + Chrysanthemums. + Odontoglossum. + Cattleya. + Bouvardia. + Camellias. + + +DECEMBER. + +_Natural._ + + Yellow jasmine. + Christmas roses. + +_Forced._ + + Salvias. + Cypripediums. + Violets. + Poinsettias. + Geraniums. + Chrysanthemums. + Lilies of the valley. + Roman hyacinths. + Coelogyne (orchid). + Narcissus in variety. + +=The cost of a flower is always in proportion to its blooming time.= If +lilies of the valley are wanted in August, they must be paid for heavily, +as retarded bulbs (those which have been kept in ice) are used to produce +them. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +The Propagation of Plants + + _By dividing--By cuttings--By seeds--By layers._ + + +=Propagation may be affected in various ways=, of which division is +perhaps the easiest. It must be done very carefully, or decay will set in. +Some plants lend themselves to this form of propagation very readily; in +others, the root stock is single and obviously resents division, wherefore +it is better to try another plan. The Michaelmas daisies are good +instances of the first kind; their roots are fibrous, and soon take to the +new soil; it is tap-rooted plants which dislike division so much. + +=CAREFUL DIVISION.= It is advisable to divide most plants in the growing +season, which is from spring to early autumn; if it is done in the winter +months, each piece frequently remains quite inert and eventually rots. The +plant should be taken up, with a fork by preference, and then pulled +carefully apart with the hand. =The smallest fragment of the old white +anemone will grow=, but few plants will stand quite so much division. Each +piece should be well watered as it is planted, and if the sun is hot some +shade improvised. Such things as _delphiniums_, _phloxes_, _campanulas_, +and quick-growing subjects in general, should not be left too long without +being divided, or the flowers will dwindle, and the plants become +straggling in habit. + +A good many plants which might be propagated by =division= of the roots +are propagated instead by cuttings, as the flowers come finer in every +way, and of course this method suits many plants which cannot be divided. +Chrysanthemums present few difficulties; though the ultimate growth of +this Japanese plant entails a vast amount of labour (if prizes are the +object in view), yet cuttings from them are the easiest things possible to +strike, even easier than a geranium, as there is no damping off. =Cuttings +are generally struck under glass=, this method being the surest, even with +hardy plants. The shoots selected should be well ripened, and the cut made +squarely below a joint and be =taken with a "heel"= if possible, that is, +with a piece of the old wood attached. All but the topmost leaves should +be pinched off, and then the cuttings must be inserted round the sides of +the pot, and the soil well pressed down,--the best cuttings in the world +cannot make roots unless this be attended to. After that a good watering +should be given them, and the pots set in a shady place till they have +emitted roots, which may be known by the fact of their beginning to make +new leaves. Some cuttings root better when the cut is allowed to form a +"callus," which in warm weather only takes a few hours. + +=Rose cuttings= root very well out of doors on a north border, and trees +produced in this manner are often very satisfactory, but they take a long +while to come to a flowering stage, somewhat trying the patience of ardent +amateurs. + +One can gradually get quite a nice collection of interesting plants, by +striking all the likely shoots in the different bunches of flowers +received from friends, but it is generally best to identify them as soon +as possible, so as to give each the right treatment. + +=Propagation by seed= is quite a fascinating employment, and is a +successful method, if pains are taken; though so many amateurs seem to +fail. I have found it the safest plan, with all except the largest seeds, +to bring them up under glass. Even the hardiest can be treated in this +way, and one feels so much more sure of the result. For one thing, birds +cannot get at them, therefore there is no need to make a network of black +cotton to keep them off; neither can the cat meddle with them, and we all +know pussy is a very bad gardener. + +=The pans= specially sold for the purpose are the best, but pots will do +very well. Fill them with fine moist soil, and press firmly down; then +scatter the seed thinly on the top, and only cover with a slight layer of +soil, afterwards placing in a dark corner. Where the seed is very small, +do not cover with any mould at all, but, as an extra protection, place a +piece of cardboard over the top of the pot, so that they shall not be +blown away. =Seeds like a still atmosphere=, moisture, warmth, and +darkness. Seeds and seedlings must not be watered in the ordinary way, but +the pan containing them should be placed in a saucer of water, when enough +moisture will be drawn up by capillary attraction. Thinning is extremely +necessary; every plant must be given room to attain its full dimensions; +where this is not done, the result is most unsatisfactory. As regards the +=time for sowing=, of course, spring is the most usual, but in the case of +annuals it will often be found a good plan to sow a few in autumn, as, by +pursuing this method, nice stocky little plants are ready for the garden +quite early in the season, and give flowers long before spring-sown seed +could possibly do so. + +=Propagation by layering= is very useful, as cuttings of some plants will +not strike readily. Strong shoots are denuded of their leaves for a few +inches, and their stems slit up and pressed into the ground by means of a +peg; when firmly rooted, they can be detached from the parent plant by +means of a penknife. Carnations are generally reproduced in this way, as +it is the surest method of all. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +The Management of Room Plants + + _Best kinds for "roughing" it--Importance of cleanliness--The proper + way of watering them._ + + +The majority of English women like to see their rooms, and specially their +drawing-rooms, adorned with =growing plants=. + +Nevertheless, a great many do not cultivate them successfully, so a few +hints will not be amiss. =Constant attention= is needed to keep plants in +perfect health, and this is exactly what is so often denied them. A lady +buys two or three ferns that take her fancy, and feels for a while quite +interested in their welfare; but, after a week or so, she leaves them to +take care of themselves, which means to dwindle, and ultimately die. Many +shillings, therefore, are constantly being spent in renewing plants which, +with proper care, should last for years. + +All room plants =must be looked after daily=, a few minutes every morning +being far better than an hour once a week, which is all they receive in +some homes. + +I will treat first of =palms=, which, though such slow-growing subjects, +seem the favourite of all for home decoration, owing to their grace of +form and good lasting properties. If you observe the roots of most palms, +you will see that, attached in an odd way to the rising stem is =a sort of +bulb=, not unlike a pigmy potato. This excrescence, which should only be +covered by a thin layer of soil, stores up nutriment for the plant's use, +in much the same way as a hyacinth or daffodil does. This accounts in a +great measure for its power in enduring dryness of the soil without +flagging, which property, however, should not be abused. Palms should be +watered as regularly, though not so often, as more sappy plants. + +=THE CORRECT WAY TO WATER.= Numbers of people do not know how to give +water in the correct way, whereby the florist prospers! =The golden rule= +is never to water a plant until it requires it, and then to do it +thoroughly. It is fatal merely to moisten the top of the soil, and to +leave the deeper roots dry. First give =a sharp tap to the pot=; if it +rings, water is required; if, on the contrary, a dull sound is given out, +the soil is wet enough. Lifting a pot is a sure test too, as one's hand +soon becomes accustomed to the difference in weight of a moist and dry +pot; the former, of course, being so much heavier. Always see that the +water runs through the hole at the bottom of the pot, then you may be sure +that each particle of soil is wet, and not till then. If you possibly can, +it is best to =use water of a corresponding temperature to that of the +room they are in=; this is most important with delicate plants. Large, +shiny, horizontal-leaved plants require a weekly sponging to remove the +inevitable dust which settles on them. =Gloves should be worn= while this +is being done, as contact with the skin turns the edges of the leaves +yellow; also gloves, of course, help to keep the hands soft and white. +Plants with large leaves should never be watered overhead, unless +immediately wiped dry, as each drop allowed to stand on the leaf turns +yellow, rots, and finally quite spoils the leaf, so that it has to be +removed. Palms will stand gas fairly well, but not so well as +_aspidistras_. + +=THE BEST PLANTS FOR DARK CORNERS.= An _aspidistra_ (please note spelling) +is =the best plant there is for roughing it=. The long, thick, dark leaves +seem to stand draughts, gas, dark corners, poor soil, and general neglect +almost with impunity. But here again watering overhead is fatal, as +regards the appearance of these plants. + +The =leaves should be washed once a week=, but I will just say here that +where one is in a hurry, and cannot wait to get a sponge and water, a good +polish with a duster is not at all a bad substitute. + +There are disputes occasionally as to whether _aspidistras_ ever flower. +Of course, it is an undoubted fact that they do, and I can give a decided +affirmative to any who may question it. My plants flower regularly every +spring, but, as these blooms are a dull, greenish-purple in colour, and +only sit, as it were, on the top of the soil, they are naturally +overlooked. + +The modesty of the violet is nowhere when compared with the _aspidistra_! + +=Aralias are good room plants=, for they have a bold and handsome form, +and glossy, bright green foliage, very like that of a fig. They do not +stand gas well, however, but, as so many houses are lighted by +electricity, this is less of a drawback than was formerly the case. If not +regularly watered, too, they have a habit of dropping their leaves; +otherwise they are of easy culture. As they grow taller, the lower leaves, +even on a healthy plant, generally drop off. + +=LEGGY PLANTS.= It is a good way, when these and kindred plants become +"leggy," to improve their appearance by cutting off the old root, and +making them root higher up the stem. Where the plant is valuable, it is +best to be sure of new roots before throwing away the old, but, as a rule, +_aralias_ have so many joints that they may easily be induced to strike by +just pressing the stem firmly into the soil, then putting the pot in some +dark place, and keeping the soil rather dry, though the foliage must be +kept moist. =To be quite sure of success=, however, it is best to treat +them in the following manner:--Choose a handful of soil with a little loam +in it, and, wetting the stem slightly, press the soil round two or three +of the joints, and bind closely with some raffia or bass, being very +careful to keep the soil always moist, or the plant will fail to make +roots. Some people enclose this part of the stem in two halves of a small +flower-pot, which is a good plan, if the stem will bear the weight, as it +preserves a more even temperature. + +=The hare's-foot fern=--_Davallia canariensis_--with its beautiful +blue-green fronds, much divided and elegantly arched, makes the loveliest +room plant imaginable, and, though fairly common, is =not often seen in a +good state of health=. I have found that, on first buying a pot of this +fern, the leaves almost invariably turn rusty and drop off, so that, as +the new fronds sometimes do not appear for some while, an amateur might +really be pardoned for _imagining the plant dead_. This is not so; the +hare's-foot merely resents the change of atmosphere (it has probably been +in a moist green-house), and, like most of us, takes time to settle down. +Once it has acclimatised itself, there is no better plant to be had for +the purpose. It is so essentially decorative that no one can fail to +admire it. Firm potting is important in growing the =davallia=, and it +does not seem so partial to water as most of the fern tribe. It will also +stand gas pretty well, if not shut up for the night in an atmosphere +charged with it, and this is the case with many room plants; they +=strongly object to being left to spend the night in the impure air=, +though a few hours each evening will not do them much harm. The plan of +taking them out at bed-time also prevents so much dust accumulating on +their leaves, an inevitable drawback where a room is thoroughly swept and +dusted. + +=Always endeavour to keep your plants well balanced.= In a room, it is +impossible to do this, without constantly turning the pots round, so that +all parts may get the light. In summer, this has to be attended to nearly +every day, but in winter less often, as the sun is, of course, much less +powerful. + +As regards =re-potting=, great care must be exercised, or more harm than +good will result. Palms will grow for years in quite small pots, and do +not thrive if over-potted. On the other hand, some plants require it +annually, but, seldom or often, unless for some special reason, +=re-potting should always be done in the spring=. From the beginning of +February until the end of May, a plant may safely be shifted on, as it is +called, because all these months comprise the growing season, when fresh +roots are emitted and new leaves being produced almost daily. See that the +pot is perfectly clean and dry, and the soil in a friable condition; it +should be composed of peat, loam and sand in equal parts; a little leaf +mould, where it is for a fern proper, will be beneficial. A =potting soil= +ready prepared may be had for about a shilling a peck from any seedsman, +which saves time and trouble in mixing. Be sure to put clean crocks in at +the bottom, or the soil will become sour. Shake the pot every now and +again as you fill it up, to ensure no crevices being left; =loose potting= +has caused the death of many a fine plant. When the pot is full, press the +mould down, leaving from half an inch to an inch (according to the size) +bare of soil to the rim of the pot, to allow of watering. It is well to +put a layer, about half an inch thick, of cocoa-nut fibre on the top of +the soil, as this looks neat, and serves to show off the foliage to the +best advantage. Enough of the fibre to cover several dozen pots may be had +for threepence. Guano is good, if supplied to the plants during the warmer +months of the year. The proportions of guano to water can always be seen +on the label pasted on the outside of the tin. It is well to remember that +=guano should never be given to a plant when the soil is dry=, but always +just after it has been watered. + +=Saucers or jardinieres should be emptied= as a rule an hour after the +plants have been watered, though where ferns seem to flourish most when +allowed to stand in water, it is well to continue the practice. In very +hot weather, this is undoubtedly of benefit to many plants, but in the +winter the soil of all pot plants should err on the dry side, cold and +damp together often proving fatal. + +=GOOD FOR TWO-THIRDS OF THE YEAR.= There are some first-rate plants which +refuse to look well for the coldest part of the year (unless one is +possessed of an hot-house), but which are really =capital for brightening +our rooms= for at least eight months in the twelve. Of these, the +_asparagus_ "fern" is perhaps the most useful. It is a lovely and graceful +plant, which bears cutting, and it lasts so long, both in and out of +water. Being, however, in reality a stove plant, amateurs who have no +warmed green-house must not expect to keep it in thoroughly good health +during the winter, but so soon as the spring appears, new green stems will +shoot up in all directions, and the old fronds will soon be replaced by +bright green feathery plumes of infinite grace. + +=Pteris wimsetti= is a charming room plant. + +=Young eucalyptus plants= are also very pretty for decorating a room, and +are supposed to be good as a disinfectant. Their habit of growth is +uncommon, and very charming to watch, as they quickly reach to an +effective size, and make large handsome plants to set in the corners of +reception rooms. It is best to bring them up by seed, which should be sown +in February or March. =Spring is the best time to buy room-plants.= + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +Various Hints + + _Artificial manures--Labelling--Cutting off dead flowers--Buying + plants--Tidiness in the garden, etc._ + + +With far the larger half of our population =the question of cost= comes +into everything. There are so many claims on our purses, that the money +spent on recreations can only be a small part; moreover, is always liable +to be drawn on at any moment. Somehow, the money laid out on a garden +always seems to be grudged, especially when it is for such things as +manure, so that if that item can be reduced, so much the better. + +=A "WRINKLE."= One good way of buying it, is to get the boys who sweep the +roads to bring the contents of their cart to your garden instead of taking +it away. Quite a lot can be purchased for sixpence or so, and the mixture +is even more beneficial to some plants than the loads bought from the +contractor. When the neat little heaps are swept up at the roadside, +anyone may take it away. Householders can employ their own errand-boys to +do so, no charge being made whatever. + +=Guano and artificial manures= in general are very stimulating, and must +only be given to plants in bud, or at all events full-growth. Sickly +plants or those at rest must never have it. =Soapsuds= form a mild +stimulant for rose-trees in summer, but these things do not come in place +of the manure with which the soil must be dressed in autumn; they are only +additions. + +=LABELLING.= There has been much controversy over the labelling of plants; +it must be done very delicately, or the appearance of the garden is +spoilt; the word label usually presupposes a name to be written thereon, +but, in reality, =just a mark to show where a plant is=, often seems all +that is necessary, and this is very important indeed with plants which die +right down every winter. The most unobtrusive tallies must be used, and +they should be of zinc, or they will inevitably get lost. The wooden ones +are all right in the greenhouse, but no good at all outside. For +rose-trees, names are required, and =the "acme" labels are much the best= +ever invented for these, and have now been in use by all rosarians for +years; they can be had at Cant's Rose Nurseries, Colchester, for about 1s. +3d. a dozen, post paid. + +=If we would keep plants in good health=, all dead flowers must be cut off +regularly; this is specially important in the case of sweet peas, pansies, +and other free-flowering plants, which become poor, and soon leave off +blossoming altogether, if allowed to form seed-pods. It is =a good plan= +to go round every morning with a basket and scissors, and snip off all +faded blooms, as, when several days elapse, the work becomes long and +irksome. + +=As regards buying plants=, this comes somewhat expensive, until a little +knowledge and experience has been gained. After a while, the different +plants are known by sight, and one is able to see directly whether a +flower or shrub is well grown and of good colour. Then, instead of +ordering everything at the large nurseries, one can often pick up, in +one's wanderings, very =good things at small cost=. Until that is the +case, it is wiser to order from some reliable firm who is sure to send out +everything true to name. People who go in for gardening, should always be +ready to learn; there are so many points which cannot be acquired all at +once. One can often gain a "wrinkle" if one keeps one's eyes open, as the +saying is. Constant visits should be made to Kew, Hampton Court, or any +other well-kept public garden, if at all within reach. A stroll round a +neighbour's garden, too, will often give one new ideas, and the +interchange of opinions does a deal of good. A magazine keeps up one's +interest wonderfully, and there are many specially published for amateurs. +One must not be surprised that the advice often seems contradictory. =The +right way of growing a plant is the way that succeeds=, and experience +shows how varied may be the means by which success is attained. I should +like here to warn my readers that before launching out into any great +expense, they first come to a full understanding as to what they will or +will not be able to take away. Greenhouses can be put up as =tenants' +fixtures=, but a very slight difference in the manner of placing them may +result in a good deal of unpleasantness with the landlord, and it is the +same with rose-trees, and other shrubs and plants. Where a shrub has +attained to goodly proportions, it is really the best way to let it +remain, even though the associations connected with it may be pleasant, as +transplanting would probably mean death, in which case neither party would +have gained anything. Of course, in the nature of things, a lover of +gardening is loth to move at all, a rolling stone is not at all in his +line. + +=Tidiness is most important in a small garden=, especially in the winter +time; plants may be allowed to get rampant in summer, but in the cold +weather, this wildness tends to make it look miserable. One sometimes sees +the brown, mildewed stalks of sunflowers and other tall plants, left on +right into December, even in a front garden, and it =gives such a deserted +look= to the place, that one longs to "have at them" there and then with a +knife. It is the same way with autumn leaves; in woods they look +beautiful, as they flutter down and make a rich, rustling carpet for our +feet, but, somehow, in the garden the beauty seems gone, and it is +generally the best plan to sweep them away as soon as possible into some +corner, where they can be left to turn into leaf mould. Of course there is +a certain beautiful freedom which is very desirable in a garden, and +which no one could call untidiness. What looks lovelier, for instance, +than the jasmine, with its long sprays hanging down over the window, or +the break made in a straight-edged path by some luxurious patch of thrift +or forget-me-not? these are only fascinating irregularities! + +=Winter need not be a time for idleness=; it must be spent in getting +ready for the spring. Tools should be overhauled thoroughly, and new +supplies of sticks and labels prepared. Plans, too, should be made for +filling each different bed, so that when the warm days arrive, and one +scarcely knows what to be at first, everything may be in train. + +The faculty of looking ahead must needs be used, if we wish to succeed. I +often think that =living in anticipation constitutes a great part of the +charm of gardening=. When sowing the seed, have we not bright visions of +the time when that self-same seed will bear most exquisite blossoms? When +pruning our rose trees, dreams of what they will become lend added +interest to our occupations, and, indeed, this quality of imagination +turns arduous work into a veritable labour of love, so that its devotees +always aver it is the most delightful recreation in the world. + + + + +JANUARY. + + +_Average Temperature 37._ + +In frosty weather wheel manure on to ground. + +See that every plant which is not quite hardy is well protected from +frost. + +Shake off any snow which may be lying on the branches of fir trees, etc. + +In mild weather digging may be done. + +If it has not already been done cut back all deciduous trees, such as +chestnuts, limes and sycamores. + +Prune all except the tender fruit trees, cutting back weak shoots hard, +and strong ones little. + +Sow early peas on a warm border. + +Do not transplant this month. + +Start covering rhubarb with pots or boxes for forcing, and surround them +with manure. + +Paths may be relaid with gravel. + +The erection of arches, trellis work, or any alteration of this sort may +be attended to. + +Keep all plants under glass clear of decaying leaves and anything likely +to cause mouldiness. + +Raise temperature of greenhouses as the days become lighter. + + +FEBRUARY. + +_Average Temperature 39._ + +Begin sowing hardy annuals outside in a sheltered position. + +Refrain from pruning rose-trees, or they will suffer later on. + +New lawns can be made now, though Autumn is the best time. + +See that all trees are securely staked and shoots of wall climbers well +nailed in before the winds of March come. + +Prune remaining fruit trees. + +Seeds of broad beans, peas, carrots, onions, beetroot, parsley, lettuce, +etc., can now be sown, though the largest sowing should be made next +month. + +Plants under glass must have more air and more water as they begin to grow +quickly. + +Ventilate carefully and close all the houses before sunset. + +Give manure to fruit trees. + +Look over fuchsias, dahlias, etc.; cut back and place in gentle warmth. + + +MARCH. + +_Average Temperature 41._ + +Hardy perennials may be planted. + +Prune hardy rose trees. + +Sow the bulk of flowering annuals. + +Cut back ivy during last week. + +Free the lawn of plantains and sow grass-seed on bare patches. + +Renew or fill up box edgings. + +Hoe beds and borders frequently to keep down weeds. + +Rose trees may be planted, though Autumn is the best time. + +See that bedding plants in frames have plenty of water. + +Clear out all dead plants and give a general tidy-up to the greenhouse. + +Give plenty of air from top-lights to glasshouses. + +Plant out Jerusalem artichokes. + +Sow seeds of vegetables of all kinds. + +Pick up gravel paths, and give another layer if necessary. + +Protect anything newly planted from rough winds. + +Mulch bush fruit trees. + + +APRIL. + +_Average Temperature 46._ + +Make last sowing of annuals and thin out those appearing above ground. + +Fill up gaps in the flower border. + +Plant out dahlias. + +Prune tea-roses during first week. + +If rather dry weather ensues keep rockery and all Spring-flowering plants +well-watered. + +Beds must be prepared for the tender plants put out next month by turning +the soil well over and thus pulverizing it. + +Protect tender fruit trees from late frosts. + +Sow seeds of vegetables for succession. + +If the weather is hot, shading can be put on greenhouses. + +Bedding plants must be gradually hardened off by giving plenty of air. + +Mow and roll lawn frequently. + +Plant out potato tubers. + +Edgings can be planted or filled up. + + +MAY. + +_Average Temperature 53._ + +Keep a sharp look-out for insects. + +Commence bedding out this month and continue all through, reserving tender +things such as coleus till the last. + +Hoe well between annuals and keep them well watered. + +Carefully train the various climbers or they will grow into an +inextricable mass. + +Fill vases and baskets. + +Clip evergreen hedges as this makes them break out at the bottom. + +Put some strawy manure between the rows of strawberries and keep well +watered. + +Sow vegetable seeds for succession. + +Plant out gourds, marrows, etc. + +If the weather is hot keep everything well watered. + +Transplant violets to their cool Summer quarters. + +Syringe frequently under glass. + + +JUNE. + +_Average Temperature 59._ + +If the garden is not altogether dependent on bedding plants it ought to be +looking its freshest and best. + +See that everything has enough water. + +Continue to thin out flowering annuals as they increase in size. + +Carefully stake larkspurs, carnations, etc. + +If the leaves of Spring bulbs have turned quite yellow, cut them off, but +not before. + +Give copious supplies of water to all wall plants as a slight shower of +rain scarcely touches them. + +Give occasional doses of manure to rose trees, and pick off all faded +flowers. + +Water rockeries. + +Stake runner beans. + +Sow late broccoli. + +Sow more lettuce. + +Water peaches, apricots, etc., copiously. + +Mulch all fruit trees. + +Protect cherries from birds. + +Draw earth up round potatoes. + +Water marrows well and often with liquid manure. + +Early this month plant out tomatoes on a south or west wall. + +Keep greenhouses well ventilated both day and night. + +Harden off azaleas before being set outside next month. + +Most plants under glass will want watering twice a day or they must stand +in a saucer of water. + + +JULY. + +_Average Temperature 62._ + +Look out for rose suckers and cut them off. + +Syringe rose trees. + +Mulch those going out of flower to induce them to make fresh buds. + +Keep faded flowers picked off. + +Commence propagating carnations. + +Take note of gaps in the flower beds and fill up from the nursery garden. + +Place azaleas, heaths, etc., outside in a shady place to rest awhile. + +Pansies which are blooming well on cool borders should have weak solutions +of guano water afforded them. + +Cut down faded spikes of larkspur and mulch and water well. + +This month bedding plants are valuable as July is not a good month for +herbaceous perennials. + +Stake the later runner beans. + +Plant out celery. + +Sow more turnip seed. + +Syringe both wall fruit and standards. + +Make new plantations of strawberries. + +Water lawn every day if possible. + +Thin out the superfluous wood of fig trees and shorten gross shoots on all +fruit trees. + +Keep everything well watered under glass. + +Give air all night to greenhouses. + +Tie up climbers to roof neatly and frequently syringe. + +Damp down several times daily. + + +AUGUST. + +_Average Temperature 61._ + +Take pansy cuttings. + +Stake dahlias, phloxes, etc. + +Keep soil from caking by constant hoeing. + +Take cuttings of geraniums, fuchsias, etc., and strike them out of doors. + +Give copious supplies of water to rose trees and syringe foliage often. + +Cuttings of rose trees may be inserted now on a cool border. + +Rockeries must be constantly watered. + +Disentangle shoots of climbing plants and tie back artistically. + +Water lawn daily and do not cut too low. + +Cuttings of most plants may be taken now and inserted in a shady border +with every chance of success. + +Cut down old raspberry canes to make way for the new. + +Protect fruit from wasps and other insects. + +Pinch off the tops of runner beans. + +Earth up celery and put out more young plants. + +Remove leaves which obstruct light on wall-peaches, apricots, etc. + +Syringe frequently. + +Give air day and night to greenhouses. + +Give constant supplies of liquid manure to chrysanthemums. + +Cut back climbing plants on the roof. + + +SEPTEMBER. + +_Average Temperature 57._ + +Begin planting spring bulbs. + +Continue to take cuttings of bedding plants, but insert in frames now. + +Leave off giving outside plants stimulants. + +Sow hardy annuals to flower next Spring. + +Plant out rooted layers of carnations. + +Thin dahlia shoots and give plenty of water. + +Remove rose suckers. + +Pluck apples and pears as soon as ripe, and put on dry shelves to keep. +The fruit should not touch. + +Prepare ground for new plantations. + +On hot days fruit trees can still be syringed to keep down insects. + +Plant out cabbages, sprouts, etc., from the seed bed. + +Earth up celery. + +Dig up and store potatoes. + +Towards the middle of the month remove greenhouse shading. + +Thin out climbers on roof again. + +Save for chrysanthemums guano is little needed now. + +Tender plants outside should be housed at the end of the month. + +Pot up freesias. + +Damp down less often and reduce the amount of air supplied. + +Ferns which were not repotted in the Spring can be done now. + + +OCTOBER. + +_Average Temperature 50._ + +Plant Spring bulbs and the madonna lily. + +Take up all bedding plants and house carefully. + +Fill the beds with polyanthus, wallflower, forget-me-not and other early +flowers. + +This is a good month for planting most things. + +Begin putting in shrubs. + +Thin out annuals sown last month. + +Cut back climbing plants. + +Keep hardy chrysanthemums well staked. + +Alterations can now proceed. + +Continue to pick pears and apples, and go over them daily to pick out +mouldy ones. + +Commence planting fruit trees. + +Raspberry plantations should now be made. + +Mulch strawberry beds after forking lightly between the rows. + +Sow early peas in sheltered situations. + +Store potatoes, carrots, parsnips, etc. + +Give liquid manure to chrysanthemums under glass. + +Ventilate carefully and do not damp down. + +Bring September planted bulbs to the light as soon as they appear above +ground. + + +NOVEMBER. + +_Average Temperature 43._ + +Plant rose trees. + +Mulch every rose tree in the garden. + +Continue planting hardy perennials. + +Cut down all dead stalks of dahlias, sunflowers, phloxes, etc. + +Finish planting bulbs. + +Roll lawn frequently. + +New ones can now be made. + +Continually tidy up the garden. + +Finish planting shrubs. + +Protect fig-trees by mulching and cut back some of the over-luxuriant +shoots. + +Plant fruit trees of all kinds. + +Trench ground not in use that the rain and frost may sweeten it. + +Prune currants and gooseberries. + +Hoe frequently between rows of cauliflower and cabbage. + +Celery must be earthed up higher. + +Any alterations that may be in hand should be completed this month. + +See that oil-lamp and other heating apparatus is in good order. + +Look over cuttings of geraniums, etc., and remove all decayed leaves, +which should be burnt. + +Ventilate all glass houses much less, especially during fogs. + + +DECEMBER. + +_Average Temperature 39._ + +Give a final glance to tender plants to see that they are well protected. + +Cut down faded stalks of hardy chrysanthemums. + +Place hand-lights over Christmas roses. + +This is a good time for writing new labels, preparing stakes, and making +plans for the following summer. + +Roll gravel walks, and if mossy sprinkle with salt. + +Planting of fruit trees may continue if the weather be mild. + +Thin out gross wood to allow the air to circulate. + +Wheel manure on to the ground in frosty weather. + +Prepare vegetable seeds for sowing, by separating them from the husk, +drying, labelling and sorting them. + +Earth up greens of all kinds with the hoe. + +In glasshouses avoid too much moisture at this dead season of the year. + +Only ventilate in mild, calm weather. + +Keep everything scrupulously clean. + +Give as much light as possible to growing things. + +Plants at rest should be kept dark. + + + + +INDEX + + + Aspect, Influence of, on plants, 67 + + + Conservatory, the-- + Cactus plants for, 26 + Hanging plants in, 26 + How to stage, 25 + Plants suitable for hanging baskets, 26 + + + Enemies of the garden-- + Earwigs, to get rid of, 45 + Mice, to get rid of, 45 + Slugs, to get rid of, 44 + Wireworms, to get rid of, 45 + + + Flowers-- + Annuals, 76 + Biennials, 78 + Colours for day and evening use, 84 + Natural and forced procurable each month, 86 + To pack for post, 84 + + Fruit, want of flavour in, 72 + + + Gardens, small-- + Be original in planting, 17 + Beds and bedding, hints for, 14 + Border soil for, 16 + Breaking up the straight appearance of, 11 + Description of a small and lovely garden, 17 + Duty of making experiments in, 17 + Eye for colour needed in, 15 + Fruit for, 70 + General arrangement of, 9 + How not to plant, 12 + Lawns, to keep in order, 13 + Little things that tell in, 12 + Making the most of land, 15 + Ornamental and useful, 73 + Paths of, to keep in order, 14 + Stone fruit for, 71 + The Dell at Chertsey, 18 + To begin well, 9 + Walks, the, 10 + + Gardening Hints-- + Art of buying plants, the, 98 + Cut off dead flowers, 98 + Labelling, 97 + Manures, 97 + Tidiness, 99 + + Glossary of terms used by Gardeners, 7 + + Greenhouses-- + Advantages of, over conservatories, 27 + Artificial heat for, 27 + Climbers in, 26 + Houseleeks, 54 + Storing plants in, 28 + The joys of, 10 + To manage, 26 + + + Lopping one's neighbour's trees. A vexed question, 11 + + + Monthly Hints for Gardeners-- + January, 101 + February, 102 + March, 103 + April, 104 + May, 105 + June, 106 + July, 107 + August, 108 + September, 109 + October, 110 + November, 111 + December, 112 + + + Planting, the art of, 66 + + Plants that are neglected but handsome-- + Asters, 20 + Campanulas, 21 + Cape Gooseberry, 23 + Christmas roses, 22 + Columbines, 20 + Coreopsis grandiflora, 21 + Delphiniums (larkspurs), 21 + Erigerons, 22 + Funkias, 22 + Heuchera sanguinea, 22 + Jacob's ladder, 23 + Lobelia fulgens, 22 + Lychnis Chalcedonica, 22 + Penstemons, 22 + Pink flowered anemone japonica, 20 + Potentillas, 23 + Saxifrages, 23 + Tradescantias & Trollius, 24 + Violas, 24 + + Propagation of plants. + By careful division, 88 + By layering, 90 + By cuttings, 89 + By seed, 89 + + + Room Plants-- + When to buy, 96 + Correct way of watering, 92 + For dark corners, 92 + Good for two-thirds of the year, 96 + Hare's-foot ferns, 94 + To keep them well balanced, 94 + Leggy plants and what to do for, 93 + Management of, 91 + Palms, 91 + + Rockery, The-- + Apennine gems for, 48 + Bulbs for, 56 + Hints for the construction of, 47 + Rock roses, 50 + Suitable plants for, 48 + + Roses-- + Bush roses of H.P. type, 38 + Climbers for cool walls, 37 + Dwarf teas, 41 + Good climbers for warm walls, 36 + Hedges of, 41 + Pillar, 40 + Pruning, 38, 43 + Tea, 35 + Time to plant, 43 + + + Shelter for plants, 67 + + Shrubs-- + Ceanothus, The delicate, 64 + Good all round, 62 + Lilacs grafted, 64 + St. John's Wort, 59 + Winter shrubbery, 64 + + Summer-houses-- + Fragrant odours for, 33 + How to cover, 32 + Position of, 34 + + + Table, Decoration-- + Hints on, 83 + Maidenhair, To make it last, 84 + Simplicity in, 85 + Stem-splitting, 83 + + Time for everything in gardening, A 69 + + Tool-sheds, Well stocked, 29 + + Trees-- + Bank under, 60 + Good plants for growing beneath, 58 + + + Vegetables for small gardens, 73 + + + Window Boxes-- + Flowers for cold aspects, 81 + Flowers for warm aspects, 82 + How to make, 79 + Pretty trailers for, 82 + Showy flowers for winter, 80 + + + + +[Sidenote: Garden Seeds and Bulbs] + +AMATEUR GARDENERS and others should apply for our CATALOGUE before +ordering elsewhere. + + A. C. TAYLOR, Ltd., + Seedsmen and Bulb Importers, + 28, ELECTRIC AVENUE, + BRIXTON, LONDON, S.W. + + The Choicest BULBS AND SEEDS at moderate prices. + Catalogues gratis (issued in January and August). + + +[Sidenote: Fencing] + + BAYLISS. JONES & BAYLISS + WOLVERHAMPTON. + LONDON SHOW ROOMS:-- + 139-141 CANNON ST E.C. + + CATALOGUES FREE + + MAKERS OF ALL KINDS OF IRON & WIRE FENCING, RAILING, ETC. + + +GALVd. WIRE NETTING. + +Averages 20 per cent. Cheaper than Ordinary. + +Lists free. + +IRON BARROWS. + +GATES. + +_Low Prices._ + +TREE GUARDS. + +IRON AND WIRE ESPALIER, &c. + + + + +AMUSING AND USEFUL BOOKS + + +THE CONFESSIONS OF A POACHER + +By J. CONNELL. With Illustrations by F. T. DADD. Crown 8vo. Price 3s. 6d. + + These confessions are unique as being the actual experiences of a + living poacher. 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LYTLE, 3 BARTON ROAD, WALTON, LIVERPOOL. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Passages in italics are indicated by _italics_. + +Passages in bold are indicated by =bold=. + +Punctuation has been corrected without note. + +Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained from the +original. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Small Gardens, by Violet Purton Biddle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SMALL GARDENS *** + +***** This file should be named 33323-8.txt or 33323-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/3/2/33323/ + +Produced by David Clarke and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Small Gardens + and How to Make the Most of Them + +Author: Violet Purton Biddle + +Release Date: August 2, 2010 [EBook #33323] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SMALL GARDENS *** + + + + +Produced by David Clarke and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + + +</pre> + + + + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p> </p><p> </p><p> </p> + +<p class="center"><b>SPECIAL NOTICE.</b></p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/seeds.jpg" alt="" /></div> +<p class="center">IF YOU WANT<br /> +<big>REALLY GOOD BULBS & SEEDS</big><br /> +AT MODERATE PRICES,<br /> +SEND TO<br /> +<big>Mr. ROBERT SYDENHAM,</big><br /> +44, Tenby Street, Birmingham.<br /> +No One will serve you Better.</p> + +<p class="center"><big>HIS UNIQUE LISTS</big><br /> +Are acknowledged by all to be the Best, Cheapest, and most Reliable<br /> +ever published. They contain only the Best<br /> +<big>VEGETABLES, FLOWERS, AND BULBS</big><br /> +WORTH GROWING.<br /> +</p> + +<p class="note">Being the Selections of the Largest Seed Growers, Market Gardeners, and +the most celebrated Professional Gardeners and Amateurs in the kingdom.</p> + +<p class="center">They also contain very useful cultural instructions.</p> + +<p class="note">Mr. SYDENHAM’S Bulbs and Seeds were represented and gained First Prizes at +London, Birmingham, Preston, Newcastle-on-Tyne, Shrewsbury, Edinburgh, +etc., etc., in 1893, 1894, 1895, 1896, 1897, 1898, 1899 and 1900.</p> + + +<p class="center"><br /><big>SWEET PEAS A SPECIALITY.</big><br /> +No Flowers give so much cut bloom at so little cost<br /> +and trouble if treated as instructions sent with each collection.</p> + +<p class="note">12 good varieties, 50 seeds of each, 1s. 6d.; 12 choice varieties, 50 +seeds of each, 2s.; or the Two Collections for 2s. 6d.; a Third Collection +of the 12 best varieties for Exhibition, 3s.; or the Three Collections, +5s., post free, with a packet each of the four best striped varieties +added free of charge. Generally sold at twice or three times the money.</p> + +<p class="note">THE BEST TOMATOES, 3d. per packet of 200 Seeds.<br /> +THE BEST CUCUMBERS, 6d. per packet of 10 Seeds.<br /> +ALL OTHER SEEDS equally cheap and good.</p> + +<p class="center"><big>FULL LISTS POST FREE ON APPLICATION.</big></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="thin"><big><b>PUT IT ON TOP</b></big> of your Fowlhouse, Tool or Bicycle Shed, or anything in the +shape of a shed that you are building. Ask your ironmonger for our handy +booklet, which will help you considerably with useful hints on building +all kinds of structures, and roofing them with <big><b>RED HAND ROOFING FELT</b></big></p> + +<p class="thin">If your ironmonger has not got it, you can get it free, and name of +nearest holder, from D. ANDERSON & SON, <span class="smcap">Ld., Lagan Works</span>, BELFAST.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><span class="u"><b>SPECIAL NOTICE.</b></span><br /> +<big>LAXTON’S</big><br /> +<b>GRAND NEW LARGE-FRUITED, EARLY STRAWBERRY</b><br /> +FOR 1901.<br /> +<br /> +<big>The “Laxton,”</big><br /> +<b>THE IDEAL AMATEURS’ AND MARKET GROWERS’ FRUIT.</b><br /> +The Fruit that everyone must Grow!<br /> +<br /> +<i>A DARKER, FIRMER, AND IMPROVED “ROYAL SOVEREIGN.”</i><br /> +</p> + +<p class="note">We believe this to be by far the <b>finest</b> of our many introductions, and in +it we claim to have combined all the good points of those two fine +varieties from which it was raised, viz, “Royal Sovereign” and “Sir J. +Paxton,” and believe it to be the most wonderful Strawberry for earliness, +size, firmness, quality, hardiness, and vigour of plant combined.</p> + +<p class="center"><b>The following are some of its good points—</b></p> + +<p class="note"><b>Earliness.</b>—In earliness it is as early as “Royal Sovereign.”</p> + +<p class="note"><b>Size.</b>—In size it is as large as, if not larger than, “Sovereign,” and +certainly larger than “Sir J. Paxton.”</p> + +<p class="note"><b>Colour.</b>—But in colour it is much <b>darker and brighter</b> than “Sovereign,” +partaking of the rich colour and taking appearance of “Sir J. Paxton.”</p> + +<p class="note"><b>Flavour.</b>—In flavour it is quite as rich as “Royal Sovereign.”</p> + +<p class="note"><b>Firmness.</b>—It is also <b>much firmer</b> than “Sovereign,” does not rot on the +ground in damp weather, and is a far better traveller.</p> + +<p class="note"><b>Cropping Qualities.</b>—Its cropping qualities are prodigious, heavier than +either “Sovereign” or “Paxton,” throwing its bold tresses well above the +foliage.</p> + +<p class="note"><b>Constitution.</b>—A very hardy and vigorous grower, retaining its foliage +well in winter.</p> + +<p class="note"><b>Fast Selling Out for 1901.</b>—The demand for this variety has been already +very large, and as the stock is small and is fast selling out, we must ask +for early orders or we shall be unable to execute until 1902. <b>PLANTS IN +POTS ONLY SUPPLIED.</b></p> + +<p class="center"><b>PRICE 18s. per doz.; £5 per 100.</b></p> + +<p class="note">(Not less than ½ at the doz. and 100 rates.) As the demand is very +great, and the stock limited, the price cannot be much lower for several +years. A Handsome Coloured Plate, and full descriptive Catalogue published +shortly.</p> + +<p class="center">Free on application.</p> + +<p class="center"><big>LAXTON BROTHERS,</big><br /> +Strawberry Plant Growers<br /> +and Specialists,<br /> +<big>BEDFORD.</big></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<h1>SMALL GARDENS</h1> +<p> </p><p> </p> + +<p class="center"><big>Green’s Lawn Mowers</big></p> +<p class="note"><big>Imitated by Many!</big><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 6em;"><big>Equalled by None!</big></span><br /> +<big>Over 270,000 Sold!</big></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/mower.jpg" alt="" /></div> + +<p class="center"><br /><big>GREEN’S GARDEN ROLLERS ARE UNSURPASSED!</big></p> +<p class="center">Known and appreciated throughout the World.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/roller.jpg" alt="" /></div> + + +<p class="center"><big>THOS. GREEN & SON, Ltd.,</big><br /> +Blackfriars Road, LONDON, S.E., and LEEDS.</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Please write for List, S. G., 1901. May be had from Local Ironmongers and Seedsmen.</i></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<h1>Small Gardens</h1> +<h4>and</h4> +<h3>How to make the most of them</h3> +<p> </p><p> </p> +<h4>By</h4> +<h3>Violet Purton Biddle</h3> +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><b>London<br /> +C. Arthur Pearson Ltd.<br />Henrietta Street<br />W.C.</b></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p> + +<div class="sidenote">Patent Coil Stake</div> + +<p class="note"><span style="margin-left: 8em;"><b>NOTICE.</b></span></p> + +<p class="center"><b>DON’T STAKE YOUR CARNATIONS</b><br /> +TILL YOU HAVE SEEN THE<br /> +<big>Patent Improved Coil Stake.</big><br /> +No Tying required. Stakes last a Lifetime.<br /> +The Greatest Boon ever offered to Growers. Only wants seeing.<br /> +<i>Prices (Cash with Order)</i>:—</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="prices"> +<tr><td>20in., <span style="margin-left: .5em;"><b>7/6</b></span></td><td>per 100,</td><td><b>1/-</b></td><td>per doz.</td></tr> +<tr><td>25in., <b>10/6</b></td><td align="center">"</td><td><b>1/6</b></td><td align="center">"</td></tr> +<tr><td>30in., <b>13/6</b></td><td align="center">"</td><td><b>2/-</b></td><td align="center">"</td></tr> +<tr><td>36in., stouter, <b>17/6</b></td><td align="center">"</td><td><b>2/6</b></td><td align="center">"</td></tr></table> + +<p class="center"><b>A. <big>PORTER</big></b>, Stone House, <b><big>MAIDSTONE</big></b>.</p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="sidenote">Fruit Trees, Shrubs, Seeds, etc.</div> + +<p class="center">THE FINEST APPLE ON EARTH IS UNDOUBTEDLY<br /> +<big>BRAMLEY’S SEEDLING,</big><br /> +Unequalled for Productiveness and Quality.<br /> +ALL KINDS OF FRUIT TREES ON OFFER TO SUIT EVERY PLANTER.<br /> +<big>THE ROSE</big> (the Queen of Flowers),<br /> +All new varieties stocked.<br /> +FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS A SPECIALITY.<br /> +My Flower and Vegetable Seeds cannot be excelled.<br /> +Send for my lists which contain valuable remarks on Profitable Fruit<br /> +Growing. Free on application to—<br /> +<b>Henry Merryweather, The Nurseries, Southwell, Notts.</b></p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="sidenote">Garden Netting</div> + +<p class="center"><big>TANNED GARDEN NETTING.</big><br /> +Protect your Strawberry Beds, Seeds, &c., from the ravages of birds.<br /> +<b>NETS OILED AND DRESSED; 36 SQUARE YARDS FOR 1/-.</b><br /> +Can be sent any width or length; carriage paid on orders over 6s.<br /> +<big>HENRY ROBINSON,</big><br /> +<b>GARDEN NET WORKS, RYE, SUSSEX.</b></p> + +<p> </p> +<div class="sidenote">Plants for Small Gardens</div> + +<p class="center"><big>SMALL GARDENS AND</big> <span class="u">HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF THEM</span><br /> +(<i>COUNTRY OR SUBURBAN</i>).</p> + +<p class="note"><b>Send a small Rough Plan of your Garden</b>, showing points of the compass, and +stating whether in town, country, or suburb, to Mr. WOOD, and he will give +you a list of PLANTS sufficient and suitable for the different positions. +Communication in regard to <i>Rockeries</i> and <i>Rock Plants</i> is specially +invited. List of</p> + +<p class="center">ALPINES, Hardy HERBACEOUS PLANTS and AQUATICS<br /> +on application to<br /> +<big>J. WOOD</big>, Woodville, Kirkstall, <big>LEEDS</big>.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> +<h2>SYNOPSIS OF CONTENTS</h2> + +<table width="75%" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="contents"> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>The General Arrangement of the Garden</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>What to go in for, and what to avoid—Brick walls—Trees, their advantages and disadvantages, etc.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>Lawns, Paths, Beds, and Border</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>How to keep the lawns level—Paths, and how to lay them—Beds +and bedding—The new style</i> <span class="smcaplc">VERSUS</span> <i>the old—Flower borders +and their backgrounds—Improvement of the soil.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>On the Duty of Making Experiments</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Description of a small yet lovely garden—Colour schemes—A novel +way of growing flowers, the spring dell—Variety in the flower-garden.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>Some Neglected but Handsome Plants</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>The sweet old columbine</i>—<span class="smcap">Bocconia cordata</span> <i>at Hampton Court</i>—<span class="smcap">Campanulas</span> +<i>as continuous bloomers—The heavenly larkspurs—Christmas +roses—The tall and brilliant lobelias—Chinese-lantern plants—Tufted pansies.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>The Conservatory and Greenhouse</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Mistakes in staging—Some suitable climbers—Economical heating—Aspect, +shading, etc.—The storing of plants—No waste space—Frames.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>The Tool Shed and Summer-House</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Spades and the Bishop—Weeding a pleasure—Trusty thermometers—Summer-houses and their adornment.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>Roses for Amateurs</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Teas—Hybrid perpetuals—Bourbons—Rose-hedges—Pillar roses—Suitable soil.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>Enemies of the Garden</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Slugs, and how to trap them—Blight or green fly—Earwigs—Wireworms—Snails—Mice—Friends or Foes?</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>The Rockery</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>A few hints on its construction—Aspect and soil—A list of alpines—Other suitable plants.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>Trees, and How to Treat Them—Shrubs</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Some good plants for growing beneath trees—List of hardy shrubs—Climbers—Enriching the soil.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>The Ins and Outs of Gardening</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Planting—Watering—“Puddling”—Shelter—Youth and age, in +relation to plants—Catalogue defects—A time for everything.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>The Profitable Portion</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Fruit, best kinds for small gardens—Size minus flavour—Vegetables—Herbs.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>Annuals and Biennials</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Why they fail—Table of good annuals—Table of biennials.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>Window-Boxes</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>How to make them—Relation of box to residence they are intended +to adorn—Suitable soil—Window-plants for different aspects.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>Table Decoration</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Graceful arrangement—Thick-skinned stems—Preserving and +resuscitating flowers—Colour schemes—Table of flowers in season.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>The Propagation of Plants</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>By division—By cuttings—By seeds—By layers.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>The Management of Room Plants</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Best kinds for “roughing it”—Importance of cleanliness—The proper way of watering them.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><b>Various Hints</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Artificial manures—Labelling—Cutting off dead flowers—Buying plants—Tidiness in the garden, etc.</i></td></tr></table> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> +<h2>TERMS USED BY GARDENERS</h2> + +<div class="note"> +<p class="hang"><b>Mulching</b>—Term used for applying manure in a thick layer round the roots +of shrubs, as a protection from frost.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Pricking off</b>—Transplanting seedlings into separate pots.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>“Eyes”</b>—Incipient leaf-buds.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>“Heel”</b>—The hardened part of a cutting, formed where it is joined to the +original plant.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Annual</b>—Lasting one year.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Biennial</b>—Lasting two years.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Perennial</b>—Lasting several years.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Herbaceous</b>—Term applied to plants which die down completely every winter.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Deciduous</b>—Not ever-green; this term is applied to trees the leaves of +which fall off every autumn.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Suckers</b>—Shoots that spring up from the common stock, as distinct from +those which belong to the engrafted portion.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Pegging down</b>—Bending branches down close to the ground, and securing them +with a peg.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Runners</b>—Separate little plants, issuing from the parent, and ultimately +rooting for themselves.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Spit</b>—A spade’s depth.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>“Strike”</b>—A term applied to cuttings making roots.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Pinching out</b>—Rubbing off undesirable shoots.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>“Blind”</b>—A term applied to plants which turn out flowerless.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Heeling in</b>—The process of temporarily covering plants with soil, till the +weather is suitable for setting them out in their permanent quarters.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>Carpet-bedding</b>—The geometrical arrangement of plants.</p></div> + + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> + +<p class="center"><i>All Seeds and Bulbs sent carriage and packing free on receipt of remittance.</i></p> + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/barrs_seeds.jpg" alt="" /></div> + +<p class="note"><b>The Best Seeds in the World</b> for securing a supply of Vegetables “the year +round,” and for keeping the Flower Garden and Greenhouse always gay, and +with abundance of Flowers to cut for vases and bouquets.</p> + +<p class="center"><big>BARR’S<br /> +21/-Collection of Vegetable Seeds</big></p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="note">Contains a liberal assortment of the following useful +Vegetables:—Beans (Broad and French), Beet, Borecoli, Broccoli, +Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Capsicum, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, +Colewort, Corn Salad, Cucumber, Cress, Endive, Herbs, Leek, Lettuce, +Melon, Mustard, Onions, Parsley, Parsnips, Peas, Radish, Salsify, +Savoy Cabbage, Scorzonera, Spinach, Tomato, Turnip, and Vegetable +Marrow.</p></div> + +<p class="note">Other Collections of <b>Barr’s Superior Vegetable Seeds</b>:—<b>5/6</b>, <b>7/6</b>, <b>12/6</b>, +<b>42/-</b>, <b>63/-</b>, and <b>105/-</b>. Full particulars sent on application.</p> + +<p class="center"><big>BARR’S CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS</big></p> + +<p class="note"><b>BARR’S SEED GUIDE</b> contains a Select List of all the most beautiful Annuals +and Perennials. Special Collections for all purposes and many Sterling +Novelties.</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="table"> +<tr><td><b>12</b></td><td>Packets of the Best Hardy</td><td>Annuals</td><td><b>2/6</b></td></tr> +<tr><td><b>25</b></td><td><span style="margin-left: 1.25em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 2em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 1.75em;">"</span></td><td align="center">"</td><td><b>5/6</b></td></tr> +<tr><td><b>10</b></td><td><span style="margin-left: 1.25em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 2em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 1.75em;">"</span></td><td>Perennials</td><td><b>2/6</b></td></tr> +<tr><td><b>25</b></td><td><span style="margin-left: 1.25em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 2em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 1.75em;">"</span></td><td align="center">"</td><td><b>7/6</b></td></tr></table> + +<p class="center">For Collections of Half-hardy Annuals or Perennials, and Seeds of Plants for<br /> +Rockwork, &c., see <span class="smcap">Barr’s Seed Guide</span>, <i>free on application</i>.</p> + +<div class="note"> +<p class="hang"><b>BARR’S</b> Seed Guide, containing many useful notes on culture, which will be +found of great value to Gardeners, Amateurs and Exhibitors, free on +application.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>BARR’S</b> Catalogue of Hardy Perennials and Alpines, Ready in February, Free.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>BARR’S</b> Catalogue of Bulbs and Tubers for Spring Planting, Ready in +February, Free.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>BARR’S</b> List of Autumn-flowering Bulbs, Ready 1st July, Free.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>BARR’S</b> Catalogue of Beautiful Daffodils, Ready in August, Free.</p> + +<p class="hang"><b>BARR’S</b> Catalogue of Bulbs for Garden and Greenhouse, Ready 1st September, Free.</p></div> + +<p class="center"><big>BARR & SONS,</big><br /> +11, 12 & 13, KING ST.,<br /> +COVENT GARDEN,<br /> +<big>LONDON</big><br /> +Nurseries—Long Ditton, Near Surbiton, Surrey.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p> +<div class="sidenote">Corpulency and the Cure.</div> + +<p class="center"><big>“HOW STOUT YOU ARE GETTING.”</big></p> + +<div class="note"> +<p>There is too often a scarcely veiled reproach in that exclamation: “How +stout you are getting!” At any rate, the corpulent one is generally +sensitive on that point, and perhaps feels a reproach where none is +intended. Certain it is that to lose the <i>svelte</i> symmetry of youth, to +broaden out, to “swell wisibly,” as Sam Weller has it, and finally to +become “fat and scant of breath,” is a process at once humiliating and +distressing, especially to those who possess that keen appreciation of +personal appearance which is a part of what is termed good breeding. There +is now, however, no excuse for those who have resigned themselves to carry +to the grave the rotund proportions of a Falstaff. The perusal of a little +book entitled “Corpulency and the Cure,” by <span class="smcap">F. Cecil Russell</span>, has afforded +us not a little interest and instruction on a subject that has hitherto +received but superficial attention from the medical profession. Mr. +Russell has made the cure of obesity his life’s study, and judging from +the record of his achievements—over a thousand grateful letters from his +patients are printed in the book—he has been singularly successful. The +author’s treatment is not by “wasting.” There is no “sweating”; there are +no stringent restrictions as to eating and drinking; no drastic conditions +of any kind. The medicine prescribed is simple and pleasant, purely +vegetable, and perfectly harmless.</p> + +<p>Its action is two-fold; it reduces the abundant fatty tissue at a very +rapid rate—in some cases to the extent of over 1lb. or 2lbs. in +twenty-four hours—usually from 3lbs. to 4lbs. in a week (sometimes +considerably more), and at the same time it acts as a refreshing and +invigorating tonic, promoting a healthy appetite, and dispelling the +feeling of depression and extreme <i>malaise</i> experienced by the majority of +corpulent people. “Does the fat return after cessation of the treatment?” +is a question that many will ask. No, under normal conditions it does not.</p> + +<p>Mr. Russell’s treatment goes to the root of the malady, and, without +having the slightest pernicious effect even on the most delicate persons, +eliminates the cause of the tendency to corpulence.</p> + +<p>“Corpulency and the Cure,” a dainty little book of some 256 pages, is now +in its eighteenth edition. We would cordially recommend such of our +readers who are troubled with what we will call, for the sake of euphony, +“exaggerated <i>embonpoint</i>,” to procure a copy by sending two penny stamps +to Mr. F. C. Russell, Woburn House, Store Street, Bedford Square, London. +This well-known specialist can claim the unique distinction of having +successfully treated over 10,000 cases of obesity.</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="table"> +<tr><td valign="top" align="center"><b>A UNIQUE TREATMENT.</b><br />The “Russell” treatment is a marvellously efficacious and radical +cure which is not only not harmful, but extremely vitalising and +strengthening, promoting appetite and aiding digestion, assimilation +and nutrition. Meanwhile the reduction of adipose matter goes +steadily on until normal weight is reached.<br /><br /> +<b>No Noxious Drugs.</b><br /><b>No Stringent Dietary.</b><br /><b>No Drastic Restrictions.</b></td><td><span class="spacer"> </span></td> + +<td align="center"><b>AN UNFAILING TEST.</b><br />The weighing machine will prove that the reduction of fat commences +within 24 hours, the loss of weight varying from ½ to 2lb.; even +more than this in severe cases of obesity. The compound forming the +basis of the treatment is purely vegetable, & wholly free from +objectionable ingredients.<br /><br />Whilst permanently reducing the body to normal weight and size, the +“Russell” treatment has a wonderfully strengthening & invigorating effect upon the system.</td></tr></table> + +<p>Mr. Russell will be pleased to give to all readers suffering from Obesity +a copy of his book, “Corpulency and the Cure,” 256 pages. When writing for +the Book, enclose two penny stamps to cover its postage. The Book will be +forwarded in a sealed plain envelope.</p></div> + +<p class="center"><b>ADDRESS:—</b><br /> +Woburn House, 27, Store Street, Bedford Square, London, W.C.</p> + + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> +<h1>SMALL GARDENS</h1> +<p> </p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2> +<h3>The General Arrangement of the Garden</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>What to go in for, and what to avoid—Brick walls—Trees, their +advantages and disadvantages, etc.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />It is imperative that <b>a small garden</b>, such as one generally finds attached +to suburban or small houses, should be made the very most of. Frequently, +however, its owners seem to think that to attempt to grow anything in such +a little plot of ground is a veritable waste of time and money, as nothing +ever comes of it. The aim of this book is to show that even the tiniest +piece of land can be made pretty and even profitable, if due attention be +given it.</p> + +<p><b>WELL BEGUN IS HALF DONE.</b> To begin with, it is well to remember that the +tenant of a small garden should not endeavour to represent every feature +he sees in large grounds; the poverty-stricken shrubbery and pond just +about large enough for a nice bath, are too often seen, and only call +forth ridicule. Some landscape gardeners have even objected to the +presence of a lawn, where the space at disposal is very limited indeed, +but to my mind <b>a little turf is always advisable</b>, for it not only entices +people into the fresh air for a game, but forms a good foil for flowering +plants, and above all looks so well during the winter.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span><b>A long narrow garden</b> is always easier to deal with than a square plot of +land, the range of vision not being “brought up short,” as it were. It is +well to take heed of this fact where there is any choice in the matter. +<b>Good brick walls</b> are a great help in gardening, though alas! in these +hurried days they are becoming much rarer, the wooden fence being run up +so quickly, and at far less expense.</p> + +<p>As regards <b>the walks</b>, it is better to have one path wide enough for two +people abreast than several unsociably narrow ones. Each path should lead +somewhere, to the summer-house, or a gate, for instance: otherwise it +looks inconsequent.</p> + +<p>Besides the flower-garden proper, <b>a nursery</b> for making experiments, sowing +seeds, and striking cuttings, should find a place, if possible; a +rubbish-heap is invaluable, too, where all decayed vegetable refuse, +road-scraping, soapsuds, etc., should be thrown. In autumn, all the leaves +the gardener sweeps up should be placed near by, both heaps being +frequently turned over to allow of the noxious gas escaping, and to assist +decomposition. The <b>rubbish corner</b> should be at the furthest extremity of +the garden, though it need not be unsightly if a screen is placed around +it. Privet is certainly the quickest growing shrub for that purpose, but, +as it is so common, other shrubs, such as <b>pyrus japonica</b>, <b>arbutus</b>, +<b>barberry</b>, and <b>pyracantha</b>, may be used.</p> + +<p><b>THE JOYS OF A GREENHOUSE.</b> If there is no greenhouse, try to obtain one; it +is such an infinite delight all through the dark months of the year, and +this without any great cost for fuel. A Rippingille oil-stove, with one +four-inch wick, will suffice to keep the frost out of a structure +measuring 16 × 10, if a lean-to (that is, attached to a dwelling-house). +Even this expense may be avoided where it is built against a kitchen wall, +though, if the wall happened to face north, only ferns and just a few +flowers would thrive. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>But even these would form a great interest, +especially to invalids, who often find their greatest pleasure in +pottering about under their “little bit of glass.”</p> + +<p><b>A VEXED QUESTION.</b> The vexed question of <b>lopping one’s neighbours’ trees</b> is +sure to crop up sooner or later. However much detriment the trees may be +doing, by preventing the free access of sun and air, tenants should know +that the law only justifies them in cutting down those branches which +actually overhang their own domains. This being the case, it is often the +best “to grin and bear it,” and lop the trees as little as possible, for +we must acknowledge that the fine form of a tree is always spoilt when +interfered with to any great extent. If the border would, in any case be +shady, so much the better; it will only require a little more attention in +the matter of watering, etc. After all, shade from the hot summer sun is +absolutely necessary if we would enjoy a garden, therefore it is always +well to hesitate over an act which takes but a few minutes to do, but may +need years to repair. Where the trees overhang a good south or west wall +the matter is more serious; it is then advisable to cut back as far as +possible, for roses, peach-trees, and, indeed, most <b>climbers resent the +constant drip</b> they are obliged to endure in wet weather. A list of plants +which do well under trees in various aspects is given in another chapter.</p> + +<p><b>BREAKING UP.</b> As the eye wearies of the straight piece of lawn with gravel +path and border surrounding it, where practicable the ground should be +broken up a bit. Some wide <b>trellis-work</b>, painted dark-green, with an +arch-way on either side, helps to do this, and lends a pleasant sense of +mystery to what might otherwise be a prosaic garden. It should be covered +with all manner of creepers, such as clematis, jasmine, roses in variety, +and some of the hardy annuals. Very tender plants should not be put on a +trellis, as it does not by any means take the place of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>a wall, being more +draughty than the open ground, though such things as the <i>ceanothus</i> will +often live through several winters, and bloom beautifully every summer in +such a spot, till an unusually hard frost kills them outright. <b>Mulching</b>, +however, of which more anon (see <a href="#Page_6">Glossary</a>), materially aids in preserving +them.</p> + +<p><b>In gardening it is the little things that tell.</b> A mere trifle often makes +the difference between failure and success. People will hardly believe, +for instance, how important it is that certain plants should only receive +<b>soft water</b>, and continue giving the water laid on by the company when all +the time gallons and gallons of <b>precious rain</b> from heaven are running to +waste. It is only a question of a tank to preserve it, which should be in +an unobtrusive situation, though easily get-at-able. Where alpines are +concerned, rainwater should be the only beverage, and this reminds me that +a <b>rockery</b> on which to grow these gems of other countries is not such an +impossibility in a town garden as might be thought by their scarcity.</p> + +<p><b>HOW NOT TO DO IT.</b> The rockery, as seen in most gardens, both public and +private, is too often an example of “how not to do it.” A heterogeneous +mass of clinkers, planted here and there with ivy, and exposed to the full +force of sun and wind, is not to be named in the same breath with those at +Kew, for instance. Of course, these are not made with bricks at all, but +of soft grey stone, rather difficult to obtain by amateurs. Nevertheless, +the shape and general characteristics may be copied; indeed, a day every +now and then spent in the Royal Gardens at Kew or in any other well +planned gardens, is a liberal education in such matters, and a great help +in laying out a garden to good effect, though, naturally, everything must +be considerably modified.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2> +<h3>Lawn, Paths, Beds, and Border</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>How to keep a lawn level—Paths, how to lay them—Beds and +bedding—The new style versus the old—Flower-borders and their +backgrounds—Improvement of the soil.</i></p></div> + +<p><br /><b>THE AUTOCRAT OF THE GARDEN.</b> We have spoken of the general arrangement of +the suburban garden, and must now proceed to particularize. First as to +<b>the lawn</b>: It might often be described as a thing invented to keep the +journeyman gardener in constant work, for where that individual only comes +for a day or even half a day each week (on which basis this book is +written) he generally seems to occupy his time in rolling, mowing, and +sweeping the grass. An endeavour should a made to curtail this lengthy +business, if it can be done without hurting his very sensitive feelings. +When a boot-boy is kept, he can be set to roll the grass before and after +it is mown, and also assist in the tidying up, thus giving the man leisure +to attend to other matters. Where tennis or more especially croquet is +played, great care should be taken to keep the turf level; <b>inequalities</b> +can always be remedied in the winter or early spring. <b>Fine soil</b> should be +scattered over each depression where these are only slight, and a little +seed sown about March; but when the turf is very uneven it is a better +plan to lift it, fill up underneath with soil, and re-lay, rolling well so +that it may settle down properly. To keep a lawn even <b>constant rolling</b> is +most necessary. Even when the lawn is smooth, it is as well to some seed +in the spring of every year, for there are sure to be weeds to eradicate, +and this is apt to leave bare patches which mar the beauty of any lawn. +During <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>hot, dry summers, water must be regularly applied or the grass +will wither and perhaps die out altogether. <b>Grassy slopes</b> especially +should be looked after, as they are the first to show signs of distress. +Where there is no hose, a “spreader” will be found a most useful adjunct +to a water-can, and is quite inexpensive. The knives of a mowing-machine +should not be set too low in warm weather, as <b>close cutting</b> of grass is +often responsible for it turning brown.</p> + +<p>The <b>paths</b> of a garden can be composed of several substances, gravel +possibly being the best, as it is so easily renewed and kept in order. In +cottage gardens delightful pebble walks with an edging of tiles can be +sometimes seen, but unless plants having a mossy or cushion-like growth +are allowed to fall over the tiles, this arrangement is rather stiff. When +laying gravel down, see that it is of a <b>“binding” quality</b>, and laid fairly +thick, as this method is economical in the long run, because it can be +easily turned. The paths must be kept clear of weeds, and, except in the +wild portion, free also of moss, a difficult thing where the growth of +trees is very rank. Picking up the path constantly with a rake and +<b>scattering common salt</b> over it, is one way of keeping moss down. It is +important that the centre of a path be higher than the sides, so that it +should <b>dry quickly after rain</b>.</p> + +<p><b>BEDS AND BEDDING.</b> As regards the beds in the garden, these are usually all +on the lawn, though <b>a long raised bed</b> with a path on either side looks +extremely well if filled with flowers, and can be easily got at on dewy +mornings without wetting the feet. Fantastic shapes are not advisable, +unless <b>carpet-bedding</b><small><a name="f1.1" id="f1.1" href="#f1">[1]</a></small> is the style aimed at. Rose-trees look best in +round or oblong beds, and do not lend themselves to filling up stars, +though a crescent-shaped bed suits the low-growing kinds very well. As a +rule only one or two different <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>kinds of flowers should be used in the +same bed, and if a good display of blossom is required these must be +frequently changed. <b>Cuttings a year old</b> make the best bedding-plants in a +general way, for, though the quantity of bloom may not be quite so great +the habit is more bushy, the individual flower far finer, and the period +of blossoming greatly prolonged. It has been found that many of the +old-fashioned flowers bloom much better if they also are <b>divided</b> and <b>new +soil added</b>. This is particularly noticeable in such flowers as +<i>delphiniums</i>, <i>campanulas</i>, and <i>japonica</i> anemones. Once every two or +three years, however, is often enough for these hardy denizens of our +gardens.</p> + +<p><b>MAKING THE MOST OF THE LAND.</b> A new style of bedding has cropped up lately, +or rather a lesson that Nature has always been teaching us has at last +been taken to heart, for the idea is really as old as the hills. Two +<b>plants flowering at different seasons</b> are placed together where formerly +each would have had a separate piece of ground; thus, a tall, autumn phlox +will be seen rearing its panicles of flowers from a carpet of <i>aubrietia</i>, +<i>alyssum</i>, or forget-me-not, which all flower in spring. In this way each +foot of ground has something to interest us at all seasons of the year. +Lilies have been planted amongst rhododendrons and azaleas for some time +past, and now the system has been extended. When once we have made up our +minds to have <b>no bare soil</b>, various schemes will present themselves to us. +Bulbs can be treated so, to the great improvement of the garden, as when +they grow out of some hardy herbaceous plant, their dying leaves which +present such an untidy appearance are nearly hidden. This double system of +planting is especially necessary in beds which are in full view of the +house, as these must never look empty.</p> + +<p><b>WANTED—AN EYE FOR COLOUR.</b> Borders are not so much trouble in this way, +as, if the wall or fence at the back is well covered with a succession of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>flowering shrubs, this makes <b>a very good back-ground</b>, and, as every +artist knows, that is half the battle. The colours, however, must be +carefully chosen, so that the plants in front blend with the creepers on +the wall. The inconsistency of people in this matter is very noticeable, +for they will mix shades in their borders which they would not dream of +allowing on their dinner-tables. Who has not had his teeth set on edge by +the sight of a pinkish-mauve everlasting pea in juxtaposition with a +flaming red geranium! it is repeated every year in scores of gardens, to +the great offence of every artistic eye. <b>Colours that quarrel</b> so violently +with each other should never be visible from the same point of view, but +kept rigorously apart.</p> + +<p>It is important that <b>the soil of the border</b> be of fairly good quality; if +the staple be poor and rocky, plenty of loam must be incorporated with a +small proportion of manure. On the other hand, if it is heavy, cold, and +clayey, sand must be added to make it porous, and thus improve the +drainage. Where the soil is not improved, some trouble should be taken to +choose only those plants which will do really well in the particular soil +the garden possesses.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2> +<h3>On the Duty of Making Experiments</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Description of a small yet lovely garden—Colour schemes—The spring +dell—A novel way of growing flowers—Variety in flower-gardens.</i></p></div> + +<p><br /><b>“Be original!”</b> is a motto that every amateur gardener should adopt. Far +too few experiments are made by the average owner of a garden; he jogs +along on the same old lines, without a thought of the delightful +opportunities he misses. Each garden, however small, should possess an +<b>individuality</b> of its own—some feature that stamps it as out of the common +run.</p> + +<p>I remember seeing a tiny strip in a large town quite fairy-like in its +loveliness, and it has always been a lesson to me on what enthusiasm can +do. The old lady to whom it belonged was not rich, but an ardent lover of +all that is beautiful in nature and art; moreover, she did nearly all the +work herself. Though it was situated amid smoke and dirt, it almost +invariably looked bright and pretty, reminding one somehow, from its +quaintness, of the “days of long ago,” for there were no geraniums, no +calceolarias, no lobelias, and not a single Portugal laurel in the whole +place. <b>Gardeners of the red, white, and blue school</b>, if any read this +book, will open their eyes at all this, and wonder, maybe, how a proper +garden could manage to exist without these indispensable plants. But then +it was not a proper garden in their sense of the term; paths were winding +instead of straight, flowers grew so well, and bloomed so abundantly that +they even ran into the walks occasionally, and, what was yet more +reprehensible, there was not a shadow of a box edging to <b>restrain</b><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> their +mad flight! Roses and jasmine threw their long flower-laden shoots over +the arches in wild luxuriance, and were a pretty sight, as viewed from the +seat hidden in a bower near by.</p> + +<p>There was a small fernery, too, containing some of the choicest specimens +that can be grown in this country. Altogether it was a most charming +little garden, and gave infinite pleasure to the owner and her friends; +indeed, I for one have often been much less pleased with formal ground of +several acres in extent, though the latter might cost a mint of money to +keep up.</p> + +<p>Experiments in the way of colour-schemes are most interesting, and should +appeal to ladies, who may gain ideas for their costumes from the blending +of shades in their garden, or <i>vice-versâ</i>. Here a word of warning will +not be out of place; do not rely too much on the <b>coloured descriptions in +the catalogues</b>, for, as they are usually drawn up by men, they are +frequently inaccurate; so many men are <b>partially colour-blind</b>, and will +describe a crushed strawberry as a carmine! Frequently a flower will +change its colour, however, when in different soil and position, even in +the same district.</p> + +<p><b>THE DELL AT CHERTSEY.</b> A novel way of growing plants is to open up a spring +dell. I wonder if any of my readers have ever seen the one on St. Ann’s +Hill, Chertsey? I will try to picture it here. A large basin is scooped +out of the hill, and on the slopes of this basin are grown masses of +rhododendrons and azaleas. Round the rim at the top is some light rustic +fencing, partially covered with climbing plants, and there was also a +narrow bridge of the same material. This dell could not be copied in very +small gardens, because it should be so placed as to come upon one rather +in the way of a surprise, but where there are any corners not quite in +view of all the windows, a little ingenuity will make a lovely thing of +it. The shrubs used need not be <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>identical; less expensive plants may be +grown in just the same way. Those on the slope of the dell will do best; +the plants for the bottom must be carefully chosen, as, of course, they +will get <b>much moisture and little sun</b>. Wall-flowers would run to leaf in +that position; and so, I am afraid, would forget-me-not; daisies (double +ones) would revel there, however, particularly if the soil were made +fairly rich; they are extremely reasonable in price, and easily obtained. +Bluebells, wood anemones, <i>doronicums</i>, <i>hepaticas</i>, narcissus, snowdrops, +all like such a situation, but perhaps the queen of them all is <i>dicentra +spectabilis</i>, or “lady’s locket,” as it is sometimes called; it has pink +drooping racemes and finely-cut foliage, and is generally found under +glass, though it is never seen to such advantage as when well grown out of +doors. This dell is the very place for it, as, when out in the open +ground, rough winds injure its precocious blooms. The <b>hardy cyclamen</b> would +do admirably, too, but these must be planted on the slope of the dell, as +they need perfect drainage. In summer it should be a mass of filmy ferns, +foxgloves, and hardy orchids; the best of the orchids is <i>cypripedium +spectabile</i>, and it should be planted in peat and leaf-mould, and in such +a way that it is fairly dry in winter and well watered in summer. +Experiments in the way of growing uncommon plants are always interesting; +in the next chapter, therefore, I will mention a few unreasonably +neglected plants, including some novelties which I can personally testify +to as well worth obtaining.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2> +<h3>Some Neglected but Handsome Plants</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>The sweet old columbine</i>—<span class="smcap">Bocconia cordata</span> <i>at Hampton +Court</i>—<span class="smcap">Campanulas</span> <i>as continuous bloomers—The heavenly +larkspurs—Christmas roses—The tall and brilliant lobelias—The +Chinese-lantern plants—Tufted pansies.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />We will begin alphabetically, therefore I will first say a few words +regarding the <b>pink-flowered anemone japonica</b>. Though the white variety +(<i>alba</i>) is to be seen in every garden, the older kind is not grown half +enough; perhaps this is owing to the peculiar pinkish shade of the petals, +a colour that will harmonize with few others, and might be termed +æsthetic; it should be grown in a large clump by itself or mixed with +white; it flowers at the same time as <i>A. j. alba</i>, and equally approves +of a rich and rather heavy soil, and also likes a shady place. Both kinds +spread rapidly.</p> + +<p><b>Aquilegias, or columbines, are most elegant plants</b>, generally left to the +cottage garden, though their delicate beauty fits them for the best +positions; they do well on borders, and generally flower about the end of +May; in a light soil they seed freely, and spring up all round the parent +plant. <b>Asters</b>, the botanical name for Michaelmas daisies, are beautiful +flowers for a small garden if the right sort are chosen; those that take +up a great deal of room should be discarded where space is an object, and +such kinds as <i>A. amellus bessaribicus</i>, planted instead; this is perhaps +the finest of the genus, and is <b>first-rate for cutting</b>. It is only two +feet high, of neat habit, and bears large, bright mauve flowers with +golden centres very freely, from the beginning of August right into +October. <b>A. ericoides</b> is another one of neat habit, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>and is only half a +foot taller than the last; it bears long sprays, covered the whole way up +the stem with tiny white flowers and mossy foliage. Some of the +<i>novi-belgii</i> asters are also very good and easy to grow. One of the most +<b>effective and beautiful</b> plants in the summer months is <i>bocconia cordata</i>; +it has delicate, heart-shaped foliage of a clear apple-green, silvered +beneath, and creamy flower-spikes which measure from three to five feet in +height; though so tall, it is eminently <b>fitted for the town garden</b>, for it +is not a straggling plant and rarely requires staking. At Hampton Court +Palace it is one of the most striking things in the herbaceous border +during July.</p> + +<p>The hardy <b>campanulas</b> are good things to have, and in their own shade of +blue are not to be beaten; of the taller varieties, the blue and white +peach-leaved kinds are the handsomest, and come in very usefully for +cutting. <i>C. carpatica</i> and <i>C. c. alba</i> are shorter, being only one foot +high; they <b>flower continuously</b>, and look very well in a bed with the +double <i>potentillas</i>, which are described further on.</p> + +<p><b>Coreopsis grandiflora</b> is handsomer than the old <i>lanceolata</i>, and bears +large bright yellow flowers, which are very handsome when cut and <b>bloom +for a long period</b>.</p> + +<p>It is difficult to imagine what we should do without <b>delphiniums</b> +(larkspurs) in the hardy flower-border; they are absolutely invaluable, +and seem to have almost <b>every good quality</b>, neither are they at all +difficult to grow; some of their blossoms are of an azure blue, a rare +colour in nature; then they can be had of a Cambridge blue, purple, white, +rose, and even red; the last, however, is a fickle grower and not to be +recommended, save for the rockery. Though one may give 21s. and even more +per dozen for them, beautiful kinds can be had for 10s.; these plants run +from two to five feet high in good soil, but need plenty of manure to do +them really well, as they belong to the tribe of “<b>gross-feeders</b>.”</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>The <b>erigerons</b> are useful plants to grow, very much like the large-flowered +Michaelmas daisies, except that they come in earlier and are of a dwarfer +habit; they may be had in orange as well as blue shades.</p> + +<p>The <b>funkias</b> are grand plants, grown chiefly for their <b>foliage</b>, which is +sometimes green margined with white, or green mixed with gold, and in one +kind the leaves are marbled blue and green; they <b>set off the flowers near +them</b> to great advantage. In the early spring slugs attack them; these must +be trapped and killed (see <a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">Chap. VIII</a>.).</p> + +<p>Why are the old <b>Christmas roses</b> seen so little, I wonder? Grown in heavy +soil and cold aspect they do beautifully, and bring us their pure white +flowers <b>when little else is obtainable outside</b>. One thing against them in +this hurry-skurry age is the fact that they increase so slowly; this makes +them rather expensive too. Good plants of <i>helleborus niger maximus</i> may, +however, be bought for half-a-crown; this variety has <b>very handsome +leaves</b>, and is all the better for a little manure.</p> + +<p><b>A flower that everybody admires</b> is the <b>heuchera sanguinea</b>, a rare and +lovely species; it has graceful sprays of coral-red flowers, borne on +stems from one to two feet high, which generally appear in June, and are +first-rate for cutting. <b>Lobelia fulgens</b> is a brilliantly beautiful +species, not to be confounded with the dwarf blue kinds; these tall +varieties have quaintly-shaped red flowers, and narrow leaves of the +darkest crimson; the roots are rather tender, and much dislike damp during +the autumn and winter.</p> + +<p><b>Lychnis chalcedonica</b> is one of the unreasonably neglected plants; it has +<b>bright scarlet flowers</b>, a good habit, and grows from two to three feet +high; it must have a sunny position and prefers a sandy soil.</p> + +<p>Some of the new hardy <b>penstemons</b> are lovely, and <b>flower during the whole +summer</b>; they look very <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>well in a round bed by themselves, and do not +require much looking after; they are rather too tender to withstand our +damp winters without protection, therefore the old plants should be +mulched, after having had cuttings taken from them, to be kept secure from +frost in a frame.</p> + +<p>The <b>winter cherry</b>, or <b>Cape gooseberry (physalis alkekengi)</b> is a most +fascinating plant; <b>its fruit is the attraction</b>, and resembles +Chinese-lanterns; they appear early in September, and make quite a good +show in the garden. When bad weather comes, the stalks should be cut, hung +up to dry for about a week, and then mixed in vases with dried grasses and +the effect is very pretty. Care must be taken when asking for this plant +under the English name, as there is a greenhouse plant so termed which is +quite different, and, of course, will not stand frost. A dozen plants cost +about 5s.; do not be persuaded to get the newer sort—<i>franchetti</i>—the +berries are larger, but coarse and flabby, and not nearly so decorative.</p> + +<p><b>Polemonium richardsoni</b> is a very pretty plant, its English name being +<b>Jacob’s ladder</b>. The flowers are borne in clusters, and are pale sky-blue +in colour with a yellow eye: the foliage is fernlike in character and very +abundant. This plant <b>likes a shady nook</b>, which must not be under trees, +however, and if well watered after its first bloom is over in June, it +will flower again in autumn. The double <b>potentillas</b> are glorious things +for bedding, and are most uncommon looking. Their flowers are <b>like small +double roses</b> in shape: generally orange, scarlet, or a mixture of both: +the leaves, greyish-green in colour, resemble those of the strawberry. +Unfortunately, these plants require a good deal of staking, but they are +well worth the trouble.</p> + +<p>The large-leaved <b>saxifrages</b>, sometimes called <i>megaseas</i>, merit a good +deal more attention than they receive. For one thing they begin flowering +very early, holding up their close pink umbels of flowers so bravely <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>in +cold winds: then their foliage is quite distinct, and turns to such <b>a rich +red in September</b> that this fact, added to their easy cultivation, makes it +wonderful that they are not more grown. I remember, on a dreary day in +mid-February, being perfectly charmed by the sight of a large bed of this +<i>saxifraga ligulata</i>, completely filling up the front garden of a +workman’s cottage in one of the poorest roads of a large town. The flowers +are particularly <b>clean and fresh-looking</b>, and having shiny leaves they of +course resist dust and dirt well.</p> + +<p><b>Tradescantias</b> and <b>trollius</b> are two good families of plants for growing on +north borders; the first have curious blue or reddish-purple flowers, +rising on stiff stalks clothed with long pointed leaves, and they continue +in <b>flower from May till September</b>. The <b>trollius</b> has bright orange or +lemon-yellow cup-shaped blossoms and luxuriant foliage. It flowers from +the end of May for some weeks. Both these plants grow about two feet high.</p> + +<p><b>Violas</b> or <b>tufted pansies</b> are very pretty, and extremely <b>suitable for the +ground work of beds</b>, especially where these are in shade, though they will +not do under trees. Cuttings must constantly be taken, as one-year-old +plants flower more continuously, and have larger blooms and a more compact +habit than older plants, besides which they are apt to die out altogether, +if left to themselves.</p> + +<p>These are but a few of the wealth of good things to be made use of, for, +when once real enthusiasm is awakened, the amateur who wishes to have a +thoroughly interesting garden will only be too eager to avail himself of +all that is best in the horticultural world.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2> +<h3>The Conservatory and Greenhouse</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Mistakes in staging—Some suitable climbers—Economical +heating—Aspect, shading, etc.—The storing of plants—No waste +space—Frames.</i></p></div> + +<p><br /><b>A well-kept conservatory</b> adds much to the charm of a drawing-room, but +requires careful management. Potting and the like cannot very well go on +in a place which must always look presentable. A conservatory, of course, +is tiled, and therefore every dead leaf and any soil that may be spilled +show very much; it is therefore advisable to have a greenhouse as well, +or, failing that, some frames. A greenhouse, though it may be only just +large enough to turn round in, is a great help towards a nice garden, and +a boon in winter; it also allows of <b>a change of plants</b> for the +dwelling-house and conservatory, greatly to their advantage. <b>Staging +generally takes up far too much room</b>; the middle part of a conservatory +should be left free, so that there is space to walk about; stands for +plants are easily arranged, and give a more natural appearance than fixed +staging, which always looks rather stiff. Being a good deal more liable to +visits from guests than an ordinary greenhouse, the conservatory must be +kept scrupulously clean and neat; the floor, walls, and woodwork must be +washed very often, and the glass kept beautifully bright. Cobwebs must +never be allowed to settle anywhere, and all the shelves must be kept free +of dirt and well painted; curtains should be hung near the entrance to the +drawing-room, so that they may be pulled across the opening at any time, +to hide work of this sort.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span><b>Hanging plants</b> are great adjuncts where the structure is lofty, and +open-work iron pillars, when draped with some graceful climbing plant, are +a great improvement. Where there is but little fire heat, considerable +care will be needed to choose something which will look well all the year +round. We will suppose that the frost is merely kept out; in the summer, +such a house can be bright with <i>plumbago</i>, <i>pelargoniums</i>, <i>salvias</i>, and +indeed all the regular greenhouse flowering plants, as, except in +hot-houses, no artificial heat is then necessary anywhere. In winter, +there is more difficulty, for all the climbing plants which are in +conspicuous positions must be nearly hardy; of these, the trumpet flower +(<i>bignonia</i>), <i>swainsonia</i>, passion-flower, <i>choisya ternata</i>, myrtle and +camellia, are the best; these are nearly evergreen, and consequently look +ornamental even when out of flower.</p> + +<p><b>Plants suitable for hanging baskets</b> are the trailing <i>tradescantias</i>, the +white <i>campanula</i>, lobelia, pelargonium, and many ferns. For the pot +plants there are hosts of things; <i>freesias</i>, <i>cyclamen</i>, +marguerite-carnations, <i>primulas</i>, Christmas roses, arums, azaleas, +<i>kalmias</i>, <i>spireas</i>, chrysanthemums, narcissus, roman hyacinths, and so +on. Many late-flowering hardy plants, will, if potted up, continue in +bloom long after the cold has cut them off outside.</p> + +<p><b>Cactus plants</b>, too, ordinarily grown in a warm green-house, will even +withstand one or two degrees of frost when kept perfectly dry, dust-dry, +in fact. During winter in England <b>it is the damp that kills</b>, not the cold; +bearing that in mind, we shall be able to grow many things that hitherto +have puzzled us. All those delicate iris, half-hardy ferns, and tiresome +plants that would put off flowering till too late, why, a cold +conservatory or greenhouse is the very place for them!</p> + +<p><b>Green-houses are altogether easier to manage than conservatories</b>, and +therefore are the best for amateurs. There cuttings may be struck, plants +repotted, fuchsias, geraniums, etc., stored, and tender<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> annuals reared. A +<b>lean-to greenhouse</b> should face south preferably, and the door should be +placed at the warm end, that is, the west, so that when opened no biting +wind rushes in. When the summer comes, a temporary shading will be +necessary; twopennyworth of whitening and a little water mixed into a +paste will do this. About the middle of September it should be washed off, +if the rain has not already done so; for if it remains on too long the +plants will grow pale and lanky.</p> + +<p><b>ARTIFICIAL HEAT.</b> The Rippingille stove before referred to must be placed +at the coldest end, and only sufficient warmth should emanate from it just +to keep out the frost, unless it is intended to use it all day. It is well +to remember that <b>the colder the atmosphere outside, the cooler in +proportion must the interior be</b>. Even a hot-house is allowed by a good +gardener to go down to 60° or even 55° on a bitterly cold night, as a +great amount of fire-heat at such times is inimical to plant life, though +it will stand a tremendous amount of sun-power. Several mats or lengths of +woollen material, canvas, etc., stretched along outside will save expense, +and be a more natural way of preserving the plants.</p> + +<p><b>One great advantage that a greenhouse has</b> over a conservatory is this: +that any climbers can be planted out, whereas tubs have to be used where +the floor is tiled. <b>Cucumbers and tomatoes</b> do very well in a small house, +and an abundance of these is sure to please the housekeeper. Seeds of the +cucumber should be sown about the first week in March on a hot-bed; if in +small pots all the better, as their roots suffer less when transferred to +where they are to fruit. Do not let the shoots become crowded, or insects +and mildew will attack them. In the summer, “damp down” pretty frequently +and give plenty of air, avoiding anything like a draught, however. +“<b>Telegraph</b>,” though not new, is a reliable cucumber of good flavour and a +first-rate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> cropper. <b>Tomato seed</b> should be sown about the same time and +the plants treated similarly, giving plenty of water but no stimulant in +the way of guano till they have set their fruit, which can be assisted by +passing a camel’s hair brush over the flowers, and thus fertilising them. +Of course, out of doors the bees do this; their “busyness” materially +aiding the gardener.</p> + +<p>As to <b>storing plants</b>, a box of sand placed in a dry corner where no drip +can reach it, is best for this, burying the roots of dahlias, etc., fairly +deep in it, and withholding water till the spring, when they may be taken +out, each root examined, decayed parts removed, and every healthy plant +repotted. The pots should be placed under the shelves till they shoot +forth, when they can be gradually brought forward to the light. This +reminds me that <b>the dark parts of a greenhouse</b> should never be wasted, as, +besides their use in bringing up bulbs, ferns can be grown for cutting, +and such things as rhubarb, may be readily forced there. <b>Frames</b> are very +useful and fairly cheap, though it is best to get them set with 21-oz. +glass, or they will not last long. Seedlings may be brought up in them +with greater success than if in a greenhouse, and a supply of violets may +be kept up in them during the coldest weather. The mats they are covered +with during the night must never be removed till the frost is well off the +grass, say about 11 a.m., as a sudden thaw makes terrible havoc.</p> + +<p><b>The great point to remember</b> when about to indulge in a greenhouse is this: +unless sufficient time and trouble can be given to make it worth while, it +is better to spend the money on the outdoor department, which to a certain +extent takes care of itself. Where there is leisure to attend to a +greenhouse, however, few things will give more return for the care spent +on it.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2> +<h3>The Tool Shed and Summer-House</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Spades and the Bishop—Weeding without back-ache—The indispensable +thermometer—Well-made tools a necessity—Summer-houses and their +adornment.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />Though it is true enough that the best workmen need little mechanical aid, +yet <b>a well-stocked tool-shed</b> is not to be despised. Sometimes it may only +be a portion of a bicycle-shed which can be set apart for our implements, +or the greenhouse may have to find room for a good many of them, but +certain it is that a few nicely-finished tools are an absolute necessity +to the would-be gardener. Of course a good many of them can be hired; it +is not everyone, for instance, who possesses a <b>lawn-mower</b>, but if the +owner of a garden is ambitious enough to wish to do without a gardener +altogether, a lawn-mower will be one of the first things he will wish to +possess himself of. In that case he cannot do better than invest is one of +Ransome’s or Green’s machines. Their work is always of a high standard and +the firms are constantly making improvements in them. The newest ones are +almost perfection, but it is better to get a second-hand one of either of +these firms than a new one of an inferior make. A <b>roller</b> is useful too, +but, as these large implements run into a good deal of money, it may be as +well to state that, on payment of 2d. or so, any of them may be borrowed +for an hour or two. Ladders can be had in this way; also shears, +fret-saws—anything that is only wanted occasionally.</p> + +<p>A <b>spade</b> is a daily necessity, however. Has not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> one of our most learned +divines exalted the art of digging by his commendation thereof, and who +shall say him nay? It is expedient to wear <b>thick boots</b>, however, during +this operation, not only on account of the earth’s moisture, but also +because otherwise it is ruinous to our soles. To preserve the latter, a +spade with a sharp edge should never be chosen, but one which has a flat +piece of iron welded on to the body of it. Digging is good because it +breaks up the earth, and exposes it to the sun and also to the frost, +which sweetens and purifies it; care must be taken however, in doing it, +as so many things die down in the winter and are not easily seen. The +ordinary hired gardener is very clever at <b>burying things so deep that they +never come up again</b>!</p> + +<p>Most people abhor <b>weeding</b>, yet if done with a Dutch hoe it is rather +<b>pleasant work</b>, as no stooping is required. After a few showers of rain the +hoe runs along very easily, and the good it does is so patent that I +always think it very satisfactory labour indeed. These hoes cost about 1s. +6d. each.</p> + +<p><b>Raking</b> is easy work, and very useful for smoothing beds or covering seeds +over with soil. English made, with about eight or ten teeth, their cost is +from two to three shillings. One of the most necessary implements is a +<b>trowel</b>, in particular for a lady, as its use does not need so much muscle +as a spade; their price is from 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. each.</p> + +<p>Where there are many climbers <b>a hammer</b> is wanted, not a toy one of German +make; these are sometimes chosen by amateurs under the mistaken idea that +the lighter the hammer the lighter the work. One of English make, strong +and durable, is the kind of thing required, and costs about 2s. or 2s. 6d. +<b>Wall-nails</b>, one inch long (the most useful size), are 2d. a pound, and may +be had at any ironmongers. The <b>shreds of cloth</b> may be bought too, but +anyone who deals at a tailor’s can procure a mixed bundle of cloth pieces +for <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>nothing, when there is the light labour of cutting them into shreds, +work of a few minutes only.</p> + +<p>In choosing <b>watering-cans</b>, see that they are thoroughly good tin, as a +strong can will last for years; moreover, when it begins to leak it will +bear mending; they cost from 3s. upwards, the roses should be made to take +off as a rule, and a special place assigned to them on the shelf of the +tool-shed, as they readily get lost. <b>Syringes</b>, much used for washing off +insects, are rather expensive, consequently are not to be found in many +small gardens; a more fortunate friend will sometimes lend one, as there +is a good deal of freemasonry amongst people who indulge in the hobby of +gardening.</p> + +<p>A thing everyone must have is <b>a thermometer</b>, in greenhouses they are +indispensable; the minimum kind are the most useful, telling one as they +do exactly the degree of frost experienced during the preceding night. +They may be bought at a chemist’s for 1s. each, and must be re-set every +day; the aforesaid chemist will show any purchaser the way to do this—it +is quite simple.</p> + +<p><b>Raffia</b>, or <b>bass</b>, for tying flower-sticks, and <b>labels</b> are minor necessities +which cost little, though sticks may run into a good deal if bought +prepared for staking. Personally, I dislike both the coloured kinds (never +Nature’s green) and the white. Both show far more than the <b>unobtrusive +sticks</b> obtained by cutting down the stalks of Michaelmas daisies, for +instance. <b>Galvanised iron stakes last practically for ever</b>, and if they +are of the twisted kind, no tying is required, greatly lessening labour. +It is a curious fact that though <b>arches made of iron set up electrical +disturbance</b> and injure the climbers, these stakes seem to have no bad +effect whatever. At the end of the autumn they should be collected, and +stored in a safe place till summer comes round again. Thin ones suitable +for carnations, etc., may be procured from A. Porter,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> Storehouse, +Maidstone, for 1s. a dozen, carriage paid. The thicker ones can be made to +order at small cost at any ironmonger’s.</p> + +<p>A handy man can often make <b>frames</b> himself, especially if they are not +required to be portable, and really these home-made ones answer almost as +well as those that are bought. Good frames can sometimes be had at sales +for an old song, and only require a coat of paint to make them as good as +new.</p> + +<p>Here I will end my list, only reiterating that, however few tools you may +have, it is foolish to get any but the best.</p> + +<p>A <b>summer-house</b> need not necessarily be bought ready-made. I have seen many +a pretty bower put together in the spare hours of the carpenter of the +family. There is one advantage in these <b>home-made summer-houses</b>, that they +are generally more roomy than those which are bought, and can be made to +suit individual requirements.</p> + +<p><b>HOW TO COVER A SUMMER-HOUSE.</b> Of course, it is more necessary to cover +these amateur and therefore somewhat clumsy structures with creepers, but +that is not difficult. Even the first summer they can be made to look +quite presentable by planting the <b>Japanese hop</b>. The leaves are variegated, +and in shape like the Virginia creeper. Messrs. Barr, of Long Ditton, +Surrey, told me it grew 25 feet in one season. It can be had from them in +pots, about the first week in May, for 3s. 6d. a dozen. Then there are the +<b>nasturtiums</b>, always so effective when <b>trained up lengths of string</b>, with +the dark back-ground of the summer-house to show up their beautiful +flowers. If the soil in which they grow is poor and gravelly, the blossoms +will be more numerous. The <b>canary creeper</b> is another plant, which is so +<b>airy and graceful</b> that one never seems to tire of it. Get the seeds up in +good time, so that when planted out they are of a fair height, else so +much of the summer is lost.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>There are so many <b>uncommon climbing plants</b> which should be tried, notably +<i>eccremocarpus scaber</i>, <i>cobea scandens</i>, and <i>mina lobata</i>. The last two +are annual, and the first can be grown as such, though in mild winters and +in sunny positions it is a perennial. It <b>flowers whenever the weather will +let it</b>, and its blossoms are orange-yellow in colour, very curious and +invariably noticed by visitors. Reliable seeds of all three can be had +from Messrs. Barr, at 6d. a packet. The <i>cobea</i> bears pale purple +bell-shaped flowers, and is a quick grower. <i>Mina lobata</i> is generally +admired, and though of a different family bears a slight resemblance to an +<i>eccremocarpus</i>, both in the shape of its flowers and in the way they are +arranged on the stem. It is only half hardy. Clematis <i>jackmanni</i> and +<i>montana</i> are good for this position too. <i>Jackmanni</i> is the well-known +velvety purple kind, and must be cut down to the ground every autumn, and +well mulched; that is because it flowers on the new growth of each year. +<i>Montana</i>, however, flowers on the wood of the previous year, and +therefore must be cut back about the end of June, if at all, as May is the +month it blooms.</p> + +<p>The Dutchman’s pipe, or <i>aristolochia sipho</i>, is not to be altogether +recommended, as <b>its huge leaves always seem to make small gardens appear +smaller still</b>, which is not desirable; otherwise, it is a splendid plant +for covering summer-houses, as it is a rapid climber. It is wise to plant +some of the <b>decorative ivies</b> as well, so that, if the flowering plants +fail, it will not be of so much consequence. The <b>varieties with pointed +leaves</b> are exceedingly elegant, and are much more suitable than the common +sort for decorating churches and dwelling-house, and cost no more to buy.</p> + +<p><b>FRAGRANT ODOURS.</b> At <b>the base of the summer-house</b> there should be +quantities of sweet-scented plants, as this will make the time spent there +all the pleasanter. There are lavender, rosemary, thyme, bay, sweet peas, +stocks, and mignonette, besides <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>the oak-leaved geranium, tobacco plant, +marvel of Peru, and, of course, roses, though the latter do not give off +scent quite so much as the other plants mentioned.</p> + +<p>The <b>position of the summer-house</b> is important. I have seen some divided, +but where there is no partition it should generally face west. It is +delightful on a fine evening to sit and watch the clouds change from glory +to glory, as the sun gradually sinks to its rest, and the stars gleam out +in the darkening sky.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2> +<h3>Roses for Amateurs</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Teas—Hybrid perpetuals—Some good climbing varieties—Treatment and +soil—Rose hedges—Pillar roses.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />The reason for the heading given to this chapter is that growing roses for +show will not be mentioned, as it is quite a separate branch of the art +and would require a book to itself to do it full justice. <b>Blooms of a fair +size, but in abundance</b> during five months of the year, that is what most +amateurs need, for, after all, the amount of disbudding that has to be +done when growing roses for show quite goes to one’s heart! We want fine, +well-coloured, healthy flowers, and to attain that end a <b>good soil is +absolutely necessary</b>. This is especially the case with <b>Hybrid Perpetuals</b>, +but Teas will often do in a light soil, if manure is given them, and +plenty of water in the dry season. The H.P.’s, as gardeners call them, +<b>must have loam and clay</b> to do them properly; where the soil is not +improved by adding these ingredients, it is advisable to rely chiefly on +Tea Roses.</p> + +<p><b>THE ADVANTAGES OF TEAS.</b> For many reasons Tea Roses are the best for small +gardens, as they like the shelter found there. They <b>flower more +continuously</b> and in much greater profusion, are not so troubled with green +fly, and are far <b>more decorative</b> in habit of growth and colour of leafage +than most of the other species. In their particular shades of colour they +cannot be equalled, though for cherry reds and dark maroons we have to +look to the Hybrid Perpetual, at least, if we want flowers of fine form, +and also for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> that <b>lovely fresh pink</b> of the Captain Christy type (though +this is now termed a Hybrid Tea by rosarians). The name Perpetual is apt +to give <b>a false idea</b> to those who are not experienced. Most of these roses +are not at all continuous, many only lasting six weeks or so in bloom, and +some even less, if the season is hot; that is one great reason why they +are being superseded by Teas, at least in the suburbs of London and the +South of England. In the Midlands and North the <b>hardiness of the H.P.’s</b> is +greatly in their favour.</p> + +<p><b>Teas will stand the closeness</b> of a garden surrounded by houses and trees +much better than the Perpetuals, which are very apt to become mildewed in +such positions. Of course, many remedies are given for this, but often +they are <b>worse than the disease</b>; flowers of sulphur, for instance, to take +the best-known remedy, disfigures the whole plant terribly.</p> + +<p><b>Teas</b> are much the <b>best for planting in beds</b> which are very conspicuous, +for, as I said previously, they are always ornamental. Where standards are +placed down each side of the lawn, it is rather a good plan to place all +the <b>Hybrid Perpetuals on one side and the Teas on the other</b>, giving the +greater amount of sun to the latter.</p> + +<p><b>GOOD CLIMBERS FOR WARM WALLS.</b> When covering a very hot wall, too, it is +best, in the South of England, to stick to the tender roses, as the others +become almost burnt up. I will name here five of the <b>best climbing Tea +roses</b> for a south or west wall. William Allan Richardson the beautiful +orange variety so much admired; Bouquêt d’or, a daughter of Gloire de +Dijon, but prettier in the bud than the old variety; Madame Berard, fawny +yellow, very floriferous; L’Idéal, and Gustave Regis. <b>L’Ideal is a most +beautiful rose</b>, its colouring almost defying description—a peculiar +yellow, streaked with red and gold, like a Turner sunset. Gustave Regis, +though often classed as a bush rose, easily covers a low wall, and is one +of the best <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>kinds there are, as it is covered with bloom the whole of the +season. The buds make <b>lovely button-holes</b>, and are creamy yellow, long, +and pointed. They are just like water-lilies when fully open, and on a +warm sunny day exhale a perfectly delicious fragrance, unlike any other +rose with which I am acquainted.</p> + +<p>Another good climbing <b>tea-rose</b> is Duchesse d’Auerstadt. Though introduced +as long ago as 1887, this variety is <b>not often heard of</b>, perhaps on +account of its shy blooming qualities. This however need deter no one from +growing it, as its <b>lovely foliage</b> makes it quite a picture at all times: +bronze, crimson, rich metallic green, its shoots and leaves are a pleasure +to look at. Its flowers, too, when they come how splendid they are! <b>great +golden goblets</b> full to overflowing with the firm, rich petals and with a +scent to match; they are indeed worth waiting for! Anxiously is each bud +watched, for they take so long to come to perfection that the anxiety is +not ill-founded. I have known a bud take four weeks to come out, but then +it had to stand a lot of bad weather, and came through it safely after +all. All these rose-trees may be had from Benjamin R. Cant & Sons, +Colchester, at 1s. 6d. each. This firm always sends out good plants, with +plenty of vitality in them, and as these old-established rose-nurseries +are by no means in a sheltered spot, you may be sure of each tree being +hardily grown and thoroughly ripened, great points in their future +well-being.</p> + +<p><b>CLIMBERS FOR COOL WALLS.</b> East, or better still E.S.E., is a good aspect for +Hybrid Perpetual and Bourbon roses on walls. I have frequently noticed +that they have a great dislike to the very hottest of the sun’s rays, and +that is the reason I have advised those places to be reserved for Teas. +Some good climbing varieties for cool aspects are:—Mrs. John Laing, a +satiny pink of lovely form and sweet scent. Jules Margottin, cherry-red, +globular in shape, sweet-scented and very floriferous. Prince Camille de +Rohan, <b>one</b> of <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span><b>the best dark roses</b> to be had, as they are generally so +difficult to grow—it is blackish-maroon in colour, and flowers +abundantly. Boule-de-neige, a Bourbon, with white flowers in great +abundance. Madame Isaac Pereire another Bourbon; it is a quick grower and +<b>most abundant flowerer</b>, the flowers are bright rose crimson. +Souvenir-de-la-Malmaison, one of the best Bourbons we have; does +particularly well on cold walls, even on those facing north. Its flowers +are very large, somewhat flat in form, and blush-white; it <b>blooms +abundantly in autumn</b>, and is rarely subject to blight.</p> + +<p><b>CLIMBERS REQUIRE VERY LITTLE PRUNING.</b> It is a case chiefly of cutting out +all dead wood, and snipping the decayed ends of those that are left. <b>When +planting rose-trees</b> of any description, choose mild and if possible calm +weather, for it is better to keep the trees out of the ground a few days +rather than plant them in frosty weather. <b>The soil should be friable</b>, so +that it crumbles fairly well, and when the plant is in position it is +advisable <b>to cover the roots with potting-soil</b> for two or three inches. +Spread the roots out like a fan, and be sure not to plant the tree too +deep. <b>Look carefully for the mark</b> showing the union <b>of graft and stock</b>, +and be careful not to cover this with more than two inches of soil. Tread +down the soil well to make it firm, and thus induce the rose-trees to make +fresh roots. In <b>planting out climbers</b>, carefully tack all loose shoots to +the wall or fence behind it, else the wind may do much harm. When all is +finished give a good mulching of strawy manure, which should be dug in +when March comes; and if there is a likelihood of frost, protect the +branches with bracken or any light covering.</p> + +<p><b>BUSH ROSES OF THE H.P. TYPE.</b> I will now give a few of the best Hybrid +Perpetuals of the bush type; many of the varieties I shall name, however, +<b>make very good standards</b> though they are more expensive. The “dwarfs,” as +rosarians call them, only <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>cost from 9d. to 1s. each at Messrs. Cant’s, +except in the case of <b>novelties</b>; and where these are concerned, it is well +to wait a year or two, as they rapidly go down to the normal price. Duke +of Teck, bright carmine scarlet, of good form, and occasionally blooms in +the autumn. Dupuy Jamain, <b>one of the best H.P.’s ever introduced</b>, the +flowers are almost cherry-red in colour, sweet-scented, and come out in +succession <b>the whole of the summer</b>: it is a quick grower, and does well in +a somewhat shady position. Heinrich Schultheis flowers of a true rose-pink +touched with silver, very prettily shaped and exceedingly fragrant. +Unfortunately, this variety is <b>subject to attacks of mildew</b>, though this +does not seem to affect the beauty of the flowers but spoils the leaves.</p> + +<p>Baroness Rothschild, a faultless rose as regards form and colour, which is +a beautiful pale pink, but utterly <b>devoid of scent</b>, a serious fault in my +opinion. Comtesse de Bearn, large, dark, and very floriferous. Madame +Gabriel Luizet, light silvery pink, quick growing, and free blooming. +Ulrich Brunner, always given an excellent character in the catalogues, and +indeed it is a good rose, cherry-red in colour, sweet-scented, and of fine +form: it <b>rarely ails</b>, mildew and rust passing it by altogether. It is +exceedingly vigorous, and makes therefore a good pillar-rose. Pride of +Waltham, a <b>rose little heard-of</b> yet most lovely; its blossoms are of the +brightest pink, sweetly scented, and beautifully cupped. Charles Lefèvre, +beautiful crimson with dark shading; also very good at Kew (and +continuous). Abel Carrière, another dark maroon of fine form, and Queen of +the bedders, producing carmine flowers so freely that it must be +disbudded; it is subject to mildew.</p> + +<p>So many roses formerly classed as Hybrid Perpetuals are now called Hybrid +Teas. The dear old La France is one that has undergone this change; it is +<b>a rose no-one should be without</b>, and should be grown both <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>as a standard +and a bush; its silvery pink flowers have a most exquisite scent and +perfect shape (that is, when nearly wide open; it is not a good +button-hole variety). Another Hybrid Tea rose that has come to the fore +lately is Bardou Job, a <b>splendid bedding variety</b>, with flaming roses +almost single in form, but produced in prodigal profusion; it pays for +feeding. Queen Mab is a somewhat similar rose but has apricot flowers, +tinted pink and orange, borne in the same generous manner. It is a china +rose; neither of these kinds attain a great height, nevertheless beds +entirely composed of them are exceedingly effective and may be seen some +distance off; they require very little pruning.</p> + +<p><b>PILLAR ROSES.</b> Having mentioned pillar-roses, I will add a few more names +especially calculated to do well in such positions; perhaps <b>one of the +best</b> is Paul’s Carmine Pillar, with its sheets; of lovely flowers covering +the stems the whole way up, with plenty of healthy foliage to set them +off. When better known, I should imagine it would be a rival even to +Turner’s Crimson Rambler, magnificent as that is when grown to perfection. +At Kew recently a bed of the Carmine Pillar was quite <b>one of the sights of +the garden</b>. A close investigation of the bed in which they were planted +revealed the fact that every alternate rose-tree was a Gloire de Dijon, +but each one was a sorry failure, and instead of scaling the heights, +crouched low at the foot of its iron stake, as though unwilling to compete +with the other blushing occupants. The “glories” were not very youthful +either, that one could see by their thick hard stems; plenty of time had +evidently been given them to do the work, but for some unknown reason they +had shirked it. I have known several cases of this sort with the +much-loved “glory de John,” as the gardeners broadly term it. Madame +Plantier is <b>a good white pillar-rose</b>, doing well in any situation, and +Cheshunt Hybrid is also most accommodating, and blooms well even in poor +soil, though it well repays good cultivation. Its flowers, cherry-carmine +in colour, are large and full,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> and the petals are prettily veined and +curl over at the edges. The foliage is rich, and the tree <b>never seems +attacked by any disease</b>; it is a Hybrid Tea. Aimée Vibert, a noisette, is +very good as a pillar-rose and extremely hardy: it also does well on +arches; the flowers are small and white, with pink tips to the petals; it +is very free, and flowers continuously.</p> + +<p><b>ROSE HEDGES.</b> Hedges of roses are quite as effective as pillars, and make a +very pretty screen for two-thirds of the year. The <b>ever-green roses are +best</b> for this purpose, and of these Flora is by far-and-away the nicest +rose. It has sweet flowers, small, full, and of the loveliest pink; they +are borne in clusters, each one looking just ready for a fairy-wedding +bouquet. They have a delightful scent, too, their <b>only fault being their +short duration</b>; in one summer they will grow from five to ten feet, and +are so free-flowering as almost to hide the leaves. Dundee Rambler, Ruga, +Mirianthes, and Léopoldine d’Orléans are all equally suitable for hedges.</p> + +<p><b>DWARF TEAS.</b> I will now name a list of the best dwarf Tea-roses; to begin +with, Alba Rosea is a dear old rose-tree, moderate in growth, bearing +numbers of flesh-white blossoms, good in form though small in size. These +have a faint, sweet scent, and are very pretty for cutting. One day last +August, I cut a whole branch off with about six open flowers upon it, and +put it in a tall vase just as it was; they arranged themselves, and were +much admired. The tree is decidedly dwarf and moderate in growth, and the +leaves are very dark green, thus making a beautiful foil to the roses. +Catherine Mermet is somewhat of the same type, but the flowers are larger +and more deeply flushed with pink; it is <b>a good green-house rose</b>. Madame +de Watteville resembles a tulip, having thick firm petals of a +creamy-white colour, distinctly edged with pink. It is a strong grower and +free in flowering. Madame Hoste is a pretty lemon-yellow colour, one of +the easiest to grow <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>in this particular shade; the flowers are of good +form, and if well manured are large and full; it has a sweet scent. Madame +Lambard is <b>a rose no one can do without</b>, it is so free-blooming and +continuous; the colour is not constant, sometimes being mostly pink, at +others almost a fawn, but as a rule it is a blend of those two shades.</p> + +<p>Marie van Houtte is another <b>indispensable variety</b>; the roses are lovely in +form, of a pale lemon-yellow colour, each petal being flushed with pink at +the edges, and the whole having a soft bloom, as it were, over it. This +carmine-marking, however, is not constant; weather and position seem to +have a good deal to do with it. Meteor is one of the darker Teas, being +carmine-crimson shaded with blackish-maroon; the roses are not full though +of good shape, consequently they <b>look best in bud</b>. This tree wants feeding +to do well, and is not a vigorous grower. Grace Darling is <b>a gem</b> which +everyone should have; the blossoms are large, full, perfect in shape and +exquisite in colour, which is generally a peachy-pink, the reverse of the +petals being a rich cream, and, as these curl over in a charming manner, +the effect is unique and extremely beautiful. The foliage is abundant, of +a ruddy tint, and keeps free from blight; indeed, <b>this entirely +fascinating rose</b> has only one fault, it is altogether too unassuming.</p> + +<p>A bright, pink rose of fine form is the Duchess of Albany; it is often +called <b>a deep coloured La France</b>, as it is a “sport” from that famous +rose. The Marquis of Salisbury is another dark tea-rose; it is small but +well-shaped though thin, and the blooms are abundant; it is strictly +moderate in growth, being somewhat like the Chinas in habit. A fine rose +<b>in a warm summer</b> is Kaiserin Friedrich, as it has large, very full, +flowers, which take a good deal of building up; it appears to dislike cold +and rainy weather.</p> + +<p><b>Sunrise is a new kind</b> that is making a considerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> stir in the +rose-world; its flowers vary from reddish-carmine to pale fawn, and the +tree has glorious foliage.</p> + +<p><b>THE TIME TO PLANT.</b> October and November are the best months to plant +rose-trees, except in very cold parts; February is then a safer time, +especially for the tender sorts. <b>Their first season they require a great +deal of looking after</b>; their roots have not got a proper foot-hold in the +earth, and this means constant watering in dry weather. At blooming-time, +an occasional application of guano does a great deal of good, making both +flowers and leaves richer in colour. <b>Dead blooms, too, must be sedulously +cut off</b>, as, if left on, the tree is weakened.</p> + +<p><b>PRUNING.</b> Do a little pruning in October, though March and April are the +chief months. In the autumn, however, the shoots of rose-trees should be +thinned out, the branches left can then be shortened a fourth of their +length with advantage, as the winter’s howling winds are less likely to +harm them. Standards especially require this, as when “carrying much sail” +they are very liable to be up-rooted.</p> + +<p>When the spring comes, look the trees carefully over before commencing +operations, remembering that <b>the sturdier a tree is the less it needs +pruning</b>. The knife must go the deepest in the case of the poor, weak ones. +Always prune down to an “eye,” that is an incipient leaf-bud; if this is +not done the wood rots.</p> + +<p>Evergreen roses need scarcely be touched, save to cut out dead branches +and snip off decayed ends.</p> + +<p>For Teas and Noisettes also, little actual pruning is necessary. H.P.’s +require the most. As a general rule for roses, if you want quality, not +quantity, prune: hard, but to enable you to “cut and come again,” only +prune moderately.</p> + +<p><b>Dis-budding</b> is a certain method of improving the blooms if it is done <b>in +time</b>. It is little use to do it when the buds once begin to show colour; +start picking off the superfluous ones when they are quite small, and the +difference in size and shape is often amazing.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2> +<h3>Enemies of the Garden</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Slugs, and how to trap them—Blight or green +fly—Earwigs—Wireworm—Snails—Mice—Friends mistakenly called foes.</i></p></div> + +<p><br /><b>The best garden as a rule has the fewest insects</b>, indeed, no foe is +allowed to lodge for any length of time without means being taken for its +extermination. Some enemies are more easily got rid of than others; for +instance, green fly, or <i>aphis</i> (to give it the scientific name), rarely +attacks healthy plants to any extent; it goes for the sick ones, therefore +<b>good cultivation will speedily reduce their numbers</b>. When any is seen, a +strong syringing of <b>soapy water</b> will generally dislodge them, or, if this +is impracticable, a dusting of <b>tobacco-powder</b> is a very good substitute. +Tait and Buchanan’s Anti-blight, to be had of most seedsmen, is a reliable +powder; it is also efficacious in preventing mildew in potatoes, +chrysanthemums, etc.</p> + +<p>In some gardens, especially those inclined to be damp, <b>slugs are very +troublesome</b>; their depredations are usually carried on by night, so that +it is rather difficult to trap them; many things are sold for this +purpose, but <b>hand-picking</b> is the surest method. In the evening, sink a +saucer a little way in the border, and fill this with moist bran; <b>it is +irresistible to the slugs</b>, and when twilight comes on they will steal out +from their hiding-places and make a supper off it. Then comes man’s +opportunity. Armed with a pointed stick and a pail of salt and water, they +must be picked off and popped into the <b>receptacle</b>, there <b>to meet a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +painless death</b>; one can squash them under foot, but where they are +plentiful this is rather a messy proceeding. Snails may be trapped in +exactly the same way; <b>salt or sand</b> should be placed in a ring round any +plant they are specially fond of, or else in a single night they will +graze off the whole of the juicy tops. Young growths are their greatest +delicacy, hence they are most troublesome in the spring.</p> + +<p><b>Wireworm</b> is another tiresome enemy well known to carnation growers, and +more difficult to get rid of than the slug, owing to its hard and horny +covering which resists crushing; salt again, however, is <b>a splendid cure</b>. +It should be well mixed with the soil though not brought too close to the +plants. <b>Earwigs</b> are horrid insects to get into a garden; they often come +in with a load of manure, simply swarms of them imbedding themselves in +such places. Dahlias are the plants they like best, and, if not kept down +with a watchful eye, they will completely spoil both flowers and leaves. +Hollow tubes, such as short straws, put round will collect many, or <b>the +old plan</b> of filling an inverted flower-pot with moss is also useful, +though somewhat disfiguring, if perched on the tops of the stakes +supporting the dahlias.</p> + +<p><b>Mice</b> are dreadfully destructive, too, especially in the country, and being +so quick in their movements they are troublesome to catch. Traps must be +baited with the daintiest morsels, to make them turn away from the +succulent tops of the new vegetation. Owls and other large birds are most +effectual in doing away with these troublesome little animals, a fact +which should be taken into account. <b>Many people from ignorance</b> destroy +birds or insects which may be urgently required to keep down annoying +pests—take, for instance, <b>ladybirds</b>—the pretty creatures are <b>invaluable</b> +where there is much green fly, yet how often are they doomed to death by +some well-meaning gardener, and it is the same with birds. <b>A robin or +sparrow will eat hundreds of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> aphides in one day</b>, so that, unless there +are many fruit-trees in the garden, it is most unwise to shoot the dear +little songsters; and even in the latter case, if protection can be +afforded, by all means save the birds! A while ago some farmers had been +so enraged by the devastation made by the sparrows and starlings that they +determined to kill all the old birds. The consequence was that they were +so over-run the next season by insects of every description, that they had +to import birds at great trouble, to take the place of those they had +killed. Foes are often mistaken for friends, but occasionally the reverse +is the case!</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2> +<h3>The Rockery</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>A few hints on its construction—Aspect and soil—A list of +Alpines—Other suitable plants.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />A well-constructed rockery filled with a good selection of Alpine plants +is a <b>never-failing delight</b> to anyone fond of a garden. Yet how rare a +thing it is! most of the erections one sees are mere apologies for the +real thing. The truth is not one gardener in a hundred knows how to make a +rockery, though he does not like to say so! <b>An artistic mind is needed</b> to +construct one that will be pleasing to the eye, besides a knowledge of +draining, water-supply, and so forth. An educated person is not actually +necessary, but one with common sense, who would not dream of making it +merely another back-ground for gorgeous bedding-plants which are all very +well in their right place, but absolutely <b>unsuited to a rockery</b>.</p> + +<p><b>As regards aspect</b>, one that is built on each side of a narrow path running +north and south, does very well, but as this may be impossible in a small +garden, <b>a corner rockery</b> built high in the form of a triangle and facing +south-east, can be made extremely pretty, as I know from experience. Where +the rockery is in the shade, no overhanging trees must be near, if choice +Alpines are expected to live there.</p> + +<p><b>The material</b> may be either slabs of grey stone as at Kew, or the more +easily obtained “clinkers.” <b>Clinkers</b> are really bricks spoiled in the +baking, having all sorts of excrescences on them which unfit them for +ordinary building purposes; they should always be ordered from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> a strictly +local contractor, as carriage adds considerably to the cost.</p> + +<p><b>The soil</b> should be a mixture of peat, sand, and loam; no manure should be +incorporated, the <b>“pockets”</b> for special favourites and plants that have +individual wants can be filled in at the time of planting. <b>One advantage</b> +pertaining to a rockery is that many plants which quite refuse to thrive +in a border will grow and flourish there, and the attention they need is +less troublesome to give; in fact, it is <b>a delightful form of gardening</b>, +especially for a lady, as there is no fear of the feet getting dirty or +wet, and a trowel, not a spade, is the chief implement used. A small piece +of turf, just a few feet wide, at the bottom of the corner style of +rockery, is <b>a great set-off</b>, and a vast improvement on a gravel path.</p> + +<p><b>SUITABLE PLANTS FOR A ROCKERY.</b> The following are some of the best flowers +for a rockery. The <i>aubrietias</i> are very pretty little plants, having +creeping rosettes of greyish-green leaves, and a perfect sheet of mauve or +lilac bloom about April. The effect is greatly enhanced when <b>planted so as +to fall over a stone</b> or brick; indeed, it is for those things which are so +easily lost sight of in a border that a rockery comes in; they can be +closely inspected there without much stooping.</p> + +<p>The <i>arabis</i> is a pretty plant, somewhat like the <i>aubrietia</i> in habit and +time of flowering; hence, where only a small selection can be made, it +might be left out, as it is <b>a trifle coarse</b>. Such a term could never be +applied to the <i>androsaces</i>, which may be numbered among <b>the</b> <i>élite</i> <b>of +rock plants</b>; they are evergreens, and do not exceed six inches in height; +they bear tiny but very bright flowers, varying from rose in some species +to lavender in others.</p> + +<p><b>APENNINE GEMS.</b> Some of the alpine anemones are lovely, notably <i>A. +appennina</i>, which has sky-blue <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>flowers that open out flat on very short +stalks, surrounded by pale green denticulated foliage. <i>A. blanda</i> is much +the same, save that it flowers a month or so earlier; they are +spring-blooming plants, and like moisture and shade, and will not do at +all if subjected to much hot sun. These and many similar plants can often +be planted on a <b>rockery facing south-east</b> (which aspect suits so many +sun-loving plants), by arranging bricks, stones, or small shrubs, so as to +shelter them from its hottest rays. <i>Aquilegias</i>, mentioned in the list of +border plants, look quite as well on a rockery, if moisture can be given +them, as their flowers are so delicate, and the leaves so fragile and +prettily coloured, especially in the early spring. The blue and white <i>A. +cærulea</i>, from the Rocky Mountains, is <b>a gem</b>, and the scarlet kinds are +very effective.</p> + +<p><b>For forming close green carpets</b>, <i>arenaria balearica</i> is most useful; it +creeps over rocks and stones, covering them completely with its moss-like +growth, and hiding any hard, unlovely surfaces. The <i>campanula</i> family is +<b>a host in itself</b>, many of the smaller varieties looking better on a +rockery than anywhere else. Some of these tiny bell-flowers have, however, +the very longest of names! <i>C. portenschlagiana</i>, for instance, is only +four inches high, and <b>a charming little plant</b> it is, and flowers for +months, beginning about July. The blossoms are purple-blue in colour, and +continue right into November, unless very hard frosts come to stop it. <i>C. +cespetosa</i> is another variety well suited to rock-work, as it is even +smaller than the last.</p> + +<p><b>The alpine wall-flower</b>, <i>cheiranthus alpinus</i>, is a very choice little +plant; it has creamy-yellow flowers, borne on stalks a few inches high, +and, though each individual plant is biennial, they seed so freely that +they are practically perennial. A light, dry soil and a sunny situation +suits them; they will even grow on old walls, and very picturesque they +look perched up on some mossy old ruin.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span><b>An attractive rock plant</b>, though rarely seen, is <i>chrysogonum +virginianum</i>; its flowers are creamy-yellow, and grow in a very quaint +manner; this plant <b>blooms the whole season through</b>. Plants of this +character should be noted carefully, as they help to give a rockery <b>a +well-furnished appearance</b>, so that one always has something to show +visitors.</p> + +<p>For warm, dry, sunny nooks <b>rock-roses</b> are the very thing; where other +plants would be burnt up, the <i>cistus</i> flourishes, for it requires no +particular depth of soil. <i>C. florentinus</i> (white) and <i>C. crispus</i> (dark +crimson), are two of the best.</p> + +<p><b>One of the most exquisite and interesting rock-plants</b> I have ever seen is +<i>clematis davidiana</i>, a plant only introduced of recent years, but +noticeable wherever seen; it is not a climber, as its name might lead one +to suppose, for <b>it only grows two feet high</b>, and generally trails along +the ground; the flowers are curious in shape, and of a metallic blue-grey +colour; the foliage is very neat and pretty; it blooms about July, and +should be planted so that it can be examined closely.</p> + +<p><b>The fumitories</b> are elegant plants, and nearly always in flower; the +blossoms are small, yellow, sometimes white, and borne in profusion +amongst the finely-cut foliage, which, <b>the whole summer through</b>, is a +bright clear green. With one plant of <i>corydalis lutea</i> a stock can soon +be obtained, as this variety seeds freely. All the fumitories prefer a +light soil and a sunny position.</p> + +<p>Dwarf evergreen shrubs greatly improve the appearance of the rockery in +late autumn and winter, especially when they add berries to their +attractions. The <i>cotoneasters</i> are evergreen, and when about a foot high +are very suitable for such a position. <i>C. horizontalis</i> and <i>C. +micicrophylla</i> bear scarlet berries, and are altogether very choice; they +must not be allowed to get too large, but taken up when little over a foot +high, and others substituted for them.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span><b>Various bulbs</b>, which we generally plant in the border, find a prettier +background in the rockery; here each bulb is made the most of, and, where +very small, is seen to greater advantage; even if ever so insignificant, +it cannot get buried away under a spadeful of soil, nor get splashed with +mud. You must often have noticed how crocuses get blown over and spoilt by +the wind, but in a cosy nook of the rock-work, planted fairly close +together, and in a “pocket” surrounded by bricks, they find a happy home, +and can be inspected without any difficulty. Personally, I do not care for +<b>crocuses in a line</b>; one cannot see their pure transparency, and only get +an idea of a broad band of colour; close at hand, their dewy chalices, +exquisitely veined and streaked, seem far more beautiful, particularly +where the finer sorts are selected. <b>All crocuses do not flower in spring</b>; +some of the prettiest species bloom in autumn, though many people, seeing +them at that time, imagine they are <i>colchicums</i>; the latter, though +certainly very decorative when in flower, are followed by such coarse +leaves that the crocus is decidedly preferable.</p> + +<p>The <b>hardy cyclamen</b> are very suitable for a rockery, as, being beauties in +miniature, they are apt to get lost in a mixed border. <i>C. neapolitanum</i> +has marbled foliage and pretty pink flowers, and <i>C. europeum</i> (maroonish +crimson) is also well worth growing; they must be placed in a shady part, +yet where the drainage is perfect; stagnant moisture kills them.</p> + +<p>The <b>hardy orchids</b> should be tried too, especially the <i>cypripedium</i>; it is +not generally known how handsome some of them are; they like shade and +moisture; indeed, through the summer the peat they are growing in should +be a regular swamp, or they will fail to produce fine flowers.</p> + +<p>Another plant that likes peat is the little <i>daphne eneorum</i>. This is <b>an +evergreen</b>, and produces its pink fragrant flowers every spring; it will +not do in very smoky <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>places, but, like the heath, must have a fairly pure +atmosphere.</p> + +<p><b>The alpine pinks are treasures for the rockery</b>, and do well in town +gardens; they flower nearly all the summer, and are not particular as to +soil and position, though they prefer plenty of sun.</p> + +<p><b>The gentians</b> look very well on rockwork, but like a stronger soil than +most alpines, loam suiting them best. Water should be generously given +during spring and summer. <i>G. acaulis</i> is the best for amateurs.</p> + +<p>The red shades found in the <b>geum tribe</b> are very uncommon, being neither +crimson, scarlet, nor orange, but a mixture of all three, with a dash of +brown thrown in. They <b>flower continuously</b>, and have dull green woolly +foliage, which sets the flowers off well. They need a light, well-drained +soil. <i>Geum chilense</i>, or <i>coccineum plenum</i>, is a good kind, and so is +<i>G. miniatum</i>; both are about two feet high, but require no staking +whatever. Of course, it will be understood that sticks, except of the +lightest kind, are <b>quite inadmissible</b> on a rockery.</p> + +<p><b>Helianthemums</b>, or <b>rock roses</b>, are charming little evergreen plants, with +wiry prostrate stems, and small flowers, which are freely produced all the +summer. They may be had in white, yellow, pink, scarlet, and crimson, and +either double or single; the variety named Mrs. C. W. Earle is a very +effective double scarlet, and quite a novelty.</p> + +<p><b>Iris reticulata</b> is <b>a very fascinating little bulbous plant</b>, well adapted +for a rockery; it blooms in the early spring, and very beautiful the +flowers are, being rich violet-purple, with gold blotches on each petal; +they are scented, too; when in blossom, the stems reach to about nine +inches in height.</p> + +<p>One of the most lovely plants that can be imagined for a rockery is +<b>lithospermum prostratum</b>, and yet how rarely one sees it; the glossy green +leaves always <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>look cheerful, and the flowers are exquisite, they are a +bright full blue, and each petal is slightly veined with red, it is not +difficult to grow, a dry, sunny position being all it requires; it is of +trailing habit and an ever-green. Everyone knows <b>the creeping jenny</b>, but +it is not to be despised for rock-work, especially for filling up odd +corners where other things will not thrive. It blooms best where there is +a certain amount of sun.</p> + +<p><b>St. Dabeoc’s Heath</b> is a pretty little shrub, very neat and of good habit; +its flowers are the true pink, shading off to white, and of the well-known +heath shape. Somewhat slow-growing, it prefers peat.</p> + +<p><b>Plants that flower the whole season through</b> are most valuable on the +rockery. <b>Œnotheras</b> may be depended on to present a pleasing appearance +for several weeks, especially if all dead flowers are picked off. The +dwarf kinds are the most suitable, such as <i>Oenothera marginata</i>, +<i>missouriensis</i>, <i>linearis</i>, and <i>taraxacifolia</i>. The last-named, however, +is only a biennial, but has the advantage of <b>opening in the morning</b>, while +most of the evening primroses do not seem to think it worth while to make +themselves attractive till calling-hours.</p> + +<p><b>The most fairy-like little plant</b> for filling up narrow crevices in sunny +quarters is the dear old <b>wood-sorrel</b>. It has tiny leaves like a shamrock +in shape, but of a warm red-brown colour, and the sweetest little yellow +flowers imaginable; they are borne on very short stalks, and only come out +when the sunshine encourages them; the whole plant does not exceed three +inches in height; it spreads rapidly, seeds freely, and thrives best in a +very light soil; it will also do well on walls.</p> + +<p>The <b>alpine poppies</b> are so delicate and graceful that they seem made for +the rockery. They only grow six inches high, and continue in flower at +least four months; they may be had in a great range of colours, and are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>easily brought up from seed. Nice bushy plants can be had of these +poppies for about four shillings a dozen, and it is needless to say they +require plenty of sunshine. The word <i>phlox</i> conveys to many people the +idea of a tall autumn-flowering plant, with large umbels of flowers, +individually about the size of a shilling. But these are not the only +species; the alpine varieties are just as beautiful in a different way, +though some are not more than a few inches high, and each flower no bigger +than a ladies’ glove-button. In spring and early summer they become +<b>perfect sheets of bloom</b>, so that the foliage is completely hidden; when +out of flower, they are soft green cushions of plants, and serve to cover +bare bricks well.</p> + +<p>The <b>alpine potentillas</b> are pretty, and keep in flower for a long time. <i>P. +nepalensis</i> is a good one, but the merits of <i>p. fruticosa</i> are much +exaggerated, its dirty-looking yellow flowers are by no means +prepossessing.</p> + +<p><b>No rockery is complete</b> without several specimens of the family of +<i>saxifrages</i>. One cannot do better than make a beginning with them, as +they are so fine in form and diverse in style. <i>S. aizoon compactum</i> is +one of the best rosette species, and <i>S. hypnoides densa</i> of the mossy +tribe; other kinds well worth growing are <i>S. burseriana</i>, which has +pretty white flowers on red hairy stems in early March; <i>S. cunifolia</i>, +with charming fresh pink blossoms, and of course <i>S. umbrosa</i>, the sweet +old-fashioned <b>London pride</b>. A dry sunny situation suits the <i>saxifrages</i> +best.</p> + +<p>The <b>House leeks</b> are somewhat similar in appearance, but like drier +situations than the last-named plants. The <i>sempervivums</i> delight to creep +along a piece of bare rock, and one marvels how they can derive enough +sustenance from the small amount of poor soil in which they are often seen +growing. The <b>cobweb species</b>, called <i>arachnoideum</i>, is most interesting, +and invariably admired by visitors; it has greyish-green rosettes, each +one of which is covered with a downy <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>thread in the form of a spider’s +web. A kind more often seen is <i>sempervivum montanum</i>, and certainly it is +a <b>very handsome species</b>, with curious flowers supported on firm succulent +red stems. It is to be seen in broad clumps at Kew, and very well it +looks.</p> + +<p>There are no better carpetters than the <b>dwarf sedums</b>, or <b>stone crops</b>. <i>S. +glaucum</i> has blue-grey foliage, and spreads rapidly; <i>S. lydium</i> is the +variety most in use, and can be had very cheaply. The tall, old variety, +<i>sedum spectabile</i>, has been improved upon, and the novelty is called <i>S. +s. rosea</i>. Another novelty is <i>shortia galacifolia</i>; it is a native of +North America, and has white, bell-shaped flowers supported on elegant, +hairy stems, the leaves are heart shaped, and turn almost scarlet in +autumn; thus, the plant has <b>two seasons of beauty</b>, as it blooms in the +spring. A peaty soil, with a little sand added, suits it well, if the +drainage is good; and it likes a half-shady position.</p> + +<p><b>Plants that are sadly neglected</b> are the airy-fairy Sea-lavenders or +<i>Statices</i>, with their filmy heads like purple foam; <i>S. gmelini</i> and <i>S. +limonium</i> are two of the best. When cut, they last a long time, and are +very useful for giving a graceful appearance to <b>stiff bouquets</b>.</p> + +<p>The dwarf <i>thalictrums</i> are <b>good rockery plants</b>; they are <b>grown for their +foliage</b>, which bears a striking resemblance to the maidenhair fern. <i>T. +adiantifolium</i> and <i>T. minus</i> are very pretty; their flower-heads should +always be cut off, so as to promote the production of their fine fronds, +which have the property of lasting well when cut.</p> + +<p>The <b>aromatic scent of thyme</b> is very pleasant on a rockery; not only should +the silver and golden varieties be grown, but also those bright kinds +which give us sheets of purple, pink, and white blossom during summer; to +thrive they must be exposed to full sunshine, when <b>they will attract +innumerable bees</b>. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>The new kind, <i>T. serpyllum roseus</i>, is splendid, the +tiny flowers coming in such profusion as to completely hide the foliage. +All are low-growing, having the cushion habit of growth.</p> + +<p><i>Veronicas</i> are not often seen, yet they are exceedingly pretty, and +continuous bloomers. <b>Amateurs should not begin with the shrub tribe</b>, as +these are somewhat tender, but if <i>V. incana</i>, <i>V. +longifolia-subsessilis</i>, and <i>V. prostrata</i> are obtained, they will be +sure to please. The first and last are low-growing, but the other is two +feet high, and has long racenes like soft blue tassels, which hang down in +the most charming way.</p> + +<p><b>A few words on some more bulbs</b> that look well on rockeries, besides the +crocus and dwarf iris before-mentioned, may not be amiss: the <b>winter +aconites</b> are most appropriate so placed, and show to greater advantage +than in the level border. Their golden flowers, each surrounded by a frill +of green, come forth as early as January, if the weather be propitious.</p> + +<p>The <i>chionodoxa</i>, called also <b>glory of the snow</b>, is very fresh and pretty, +with its bright blue flowers having a conspicuous white eye. If left +undisturbed they will spread rapidly, and come up year after year without +any further trouble; they are <b>very cheap</b>, and will do in any soil.</p> + +<p><b>Snowdrops</b> are charming on rock-work, and may be placed close to the +<i>chionodoxa</i>, as they bloom almost together.</p> + +<p>The <b>grape-hyacinths</b> have very quaint little flowers of a bright dark-blue +colour, on stalks about five or six inches high; they flower for some +weeks, and must be massed together to get a good effect.</p> + +<p><b>The early-flowering scillas</b> resemble the <i>chionodoxas</i>, but last much +longer in bloom. They are very <b>easy to manage</b>, and rarely fail to make a +good show. <i>S.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> siberica</i> is the best-known variety, and can be obtained +very cheaply.</p> + +<p><b>The miniature narcissus</b> is the sweetest thing imaginable; <i>N. minus</i>, is +only a few inches high, and when in the open border is apt to get +splashed, but amongst stones in a sheltered position on the rockery they +are charming. All these dwarf bulbs look so well in such positions, +because <b>their purity remains unsullied</b>.</p> + +<p>Here I will leave the rockery, merely intimating that <b>early autumn is the +best time for planting</b>, and that if pains are taken to construct it +properly at first, a great amount of trouble will be saved in the end. +Most of these plants and bulbs may be had of Messrs. Barr & Sons, 12, King +Street, Covent Garden. Their daffodil nurseries at Long Ditton, near +Surbiton, Surrey, are famous all the world over, but they also go in a +great deal for hardy perennials and rock plants, of which they have a +splendid stock; their prices are very reasonable, too, when you take into +consideration that everything they send out is absolutely true to name. +Their interesting catalogues will be sent post free on application.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2> +<h3>Trees, Shrubs, and How to Treat Them.</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Some good plants for growing beneath them—Selection of hardy +shrubs—Enriching the soil—Climbers.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />Forest-trees in a small garden are somewhat out of place, but as they are +often found in such positions, I will deal with them here. It is to be +remembered that though they give most grateful shade, not only do they rob +everything beneath them of sunshine, but also <b>take so much out of the +soil</b>, that, unless constant renewals are made, very little can be grown in +their immediate vicinity; the class of plants that will do best beneath +their branches also find the soil they are growing in best renewed by the +leaves which fall therefrom. For the sake of tidiness, these of course are +swept away, but they should be kept for two or three years, and then +brought back, converted into <b>leaf-mould</b>; if this is not done, the quality +of the soil will steadily deteriorate, instead of getting richer, as it +does in woods; and this is one reason why so many wild plants fail to +thrive when brought into cultivation; manure is no substitute, but often +distasteful to them.</p> + +<p><b>SOMETHING BESIDES IVY.</b> Trees must be divided into two broad sections, +<b>deciduous and ever-green</b>. Very few plants will do well under the latter, +but as regards the first, <b>ivy</b> is not by any means the only thing that will +grow, though it is often a good plan to use it as a foundation, and work +in plants here and there afterwards. There is no need to choose the large +kind; those elegant varieties with long pointed leaves are <b>more ornamental +and just as easy to grow</b>. <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>Their roots must be restricted when other +plants are near, or they will soon take up all the room. <b>Ferns</b> will do +very well under trees, if they are plentifully watered during the dry +season. Here also a few of the choicest kinds should be grown, for though +some of them may not do so well as in a shady open spot, most of them will +give a fairly good account of themselves. Always plant them with the +rhizome above ground, not forgetting that when each fern has its full +complement of fronds, it will take up a considerably larger space than it +does at the time it is set out.</p> + +<p>If the <i>Osmunda regalis</i> is tried—<b>the royal fern</b>—it is necessary to get +a good established turf of it; strong clumps cost about 1s. 6d. each; +plenty of water must be given it in the summer. I have seen it in splendid +form under a tree in a very small garden.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the <b>St. John’s worts</b> come next to ivy and ferns in their +usefulness for planting under trees, as they are <b>always decorative, being +ever-green</b>. In the spring, the foliage is a most lovely soft apple-green, +and in summer when the golden cups filled with anthers issue forth from +the axils of the leaves, the effect is beautiful. <i>Hypericum calycinum</i> is +the Latin term for these plants, and though they will do on the dryest +bank and in the poorest soil, being very tough and wiry, if they are grown +in good loam and manure is occasionally given them, they will repay with +far finer flowers, which will be produced for a longer season.</p> + +<p><b>A good breadth of woodruff</b> makes a very pretty picture for several weeks, +and has a delightful scent; here and there bulbs can be planted amongst +it, neither being harmed by this plan. The <i>aubrietias</i> <b>flower with +unfailing regularity</b> under trees, even when the aspect is north, and no +gleam of sunshine reaches them; their greyish-green rosettes resist +drought splendidly, and though these plants do not give us so much blossom +in unfavourable positions, still they make a very pretty <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>show. +<i>Aubrietias</i> can be easily propagated by division; every morsel grows.</p> + +<p><b>BANKS UNDER TREES.</b> The white <i>arabis</i> also does well under similar +conditions; both are useful for draping perpendicular surfaces, such as +the steep side of a bank or hedge. A raised border, with facing of bricks, +is rather a nice way of growing plants under trees, and the work of +tending them is pleasant, less stooping being required.</p> + +<p>The <b>mossy saxifrage</b> droops over the edges, and mingles well with the +<i>arabis</i>, but it must be more carefully watered, as it is apt to die out; +pieces should constantly be taken off, and dibbled in so as to fill up any +gaps. The <b>periwinkles</b> meander charmingly over the roughest stones, and in +the most dreary spots; their glossy ever-green leaves, and fresh bright +little flowerets <b>always looking cheerful</b> whatever the weather. They creep +quickly, rooting every few inches as they grow; on the perpendicular face +of the rock, succulent plants like <b>echeverias</b> can sometimes be made to +grow (those little green rosettes, having each leaf tipped with red, which +can be bought so readily in May for about twopence each).</p> + +<p><b>Many things will do for a time</b>, that want renewing each year, even if +hardy. Cowslips, primroses, polyanthus, wallflowers, all will make a fair +show if planted out just before flowering, but, unless a few hours’ sun +daily shines on them, they will not retain enough vitality to produce +seed, and being biennial soon die out, leaving not a trace behind.</p> + +<p><b>A great many bulbs do admirably under deciduous trees</b>, especially those +which blossom before the new leaves on the branches above them have +reached any appreciable size.</p> + +<p><b>Scillas</b> bloom in the same place year after year; snowdrops also do fairly +well, and lilies of the valley <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>ring out a few of their dainty bells every +spring (a rich vegetable soil suits them best). <b>Tulips</b> only do well when +planted afresh every autumn; but, as they are so cheap, that is not a +great matter. The <i>megaseas</i>, mentioned in another chapter, give forth +many of their fine leaves, but they refuse to turn colour, owing to the +want of sun. Fox-gloves, also, grow and flower, seeming to enjoy their +position.</p> + +<p><b>If the aspect of the space to be filled is a cold one</b>, such things as +geraniums will only give a few poor flowers, and then succumb. Even +pansies wilt and gradually fade away under trees, for their soft, weak +stems and leaves soon get drawn up for want of light, though they will do +well enough on an <i>open</i> border, facing north.</p> + +<p><b>Hard-wooded plants</b> will be generally found to do best; indeed, some of the +shrub tribe succeed very well, particularly barberry, <i>pernettyas</i>, the +early <i>daphnes</i>, whortleberries, <i>gaultheria shallon</i> and <i>cotoneaster</i>.</p> + +<p>While on the subject of <b>shrubs</b>, it may be as well to mention several +attractive kinds which may be planted in place of the <b>eternal box</b> and +Portugal laurel; of course, these two have almost every good quality; they +will do in any soil, are ever-green, and resist smoke, dust and dirt well; +but, in places where poor soil and a soot-laden atmosphere are absent, +<b>substitutes might occasionally be found for those shrubs</b>, which will have +the added charm of novelty. One of the nicest for small gardens is +<i>cotoneaster microphylla</i>; this is a joy to look at, all through the +winter months, when it is at its best; the branches grow in an uncommon +manner, and are of somewhat prostrate habit; they are thickly clothed with +dark, small leaves the whole way up the stem, and shining amongst them are +the pretty crimson, almost transparent berries. It is quite distinct from +the ordinary berry-bearing shrubs, as there is <b>nothing stiff about its +gracefully-curving sprays</b>, which look well <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>cut and wedged in the Japanese +fashion. Shrubs of this variety may be had as low as sixpence, but it is +better policy to get a larger one, costing about eighteen pence, as they +will sooner be of a presentable size; they are shrubs, too, that do not +altogether show their capabilities when at a very youthful stage.</p> + +<p><b>A GOOD ALL ROUND PLANT.</b> <i>Berberis aquifolium</i> is another shrub which has a +great deal to recommend it; it is ever-green, and will do in almost any +position; it bears lovely yellow flowers in spring, purple powdered +berries in August, and the foliage turns a rich red in October. Always +ornate, it is one of the easiest shrubs to grow, and <b>just the thing for a +small garden</b>.</p> + +<p><b>The myrtle</b>, though liable to be killed in a very hard frost, can often be +grown to a great size in a sheltered garden; I have seen bushes eight +yards round, in an exposed position near the river Thames, which must have +been braving the storms for many a year past. They should not be planted +out till March or April, though November is the month for most other +shrubs. The old <i>pyrus japonica</i> <b>makes a good bush</b>, though most often grow +on a wall; its bright flowers, carmine-scarlet in colour with yellow +anthers in the centre, appear early in April, a week or two later than the +climbers, which of course are protected. When grown in bush form, it <b>is +sometimes pruned out of all recognition</b>; this is especially the case in +public gardens, and is quite an affliction to any one who knows how lovely +it can be! The knife should be restrained, allowing the <i>pyrus</i> to take +its own shape as much as possible; it is often sold under the name of +<i>cydonia japonica</i>, as that is really its rightful title.</p> + +<p><b>One or two of the <i>araucarias</i> make very good shrubs for a small garden</b>; +they should not be grown in cold, wind-swept places, as their branches +soon turn brown if exposed to continued frost and furious blasts. There is +a magnificent specimen in the nurseries of Messrs. Veitch, Kingston Hill, +Surrey, planted about <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>1865; its ornamental appearance is greatly due to +the number of young branches springing out from the main trunk and almost +completely covering it; they nestle under the larger branches, and produce +a very picturesque effect. Small plants of this variety may be had for +three or four shillings.</p> + +<p>Messrs. Veitch have a splendid selection of shrubs, all in the best of +health; their hollies are well grown, and include all the good sorts; a +variety that bears fruit when quite young is <i>ilex glabrum</i>, of which they +have a large stock; these trees are such slow growers, that it is +advisable to get one that will look attractive almost at once.</p> + +<p><b>Pernettyas are ornamental little shrubs</b>, not so much grown as they +deserve; in winter, when most things look drooping and unhappy, these +American visitors to our gardens are bright and cheerful. <b>The dwarf erica +carnea</b>, both pink and white, show their buds as early as November, and at +the turn of the year present a very pretty appearance; they look well as +edgings to rhododendron beds; their price is about sixpence each.</p> + +<p><b>Another charming winter shrub</b> is <i>cornus sanguinea</i>; its beauty lies in +the red glow of its leafless stems, which makes it visible some distance +off.</p> + +<p><i>Spirea Anthony Waterer</i> is a <b>fine plant in late summer</b>, having pink +umbels of flowers and a habit somewhat like the valerian. <b>The snow-berry</b> +is good in autumn and winter, having large white berries which hang on a +long time; it is deciduous, and likes a rich soil.</p> + +<p>Messrs. Veitch have a splendid collection of conifers for all aspects and +positions; their small junipers are most fascinating little trees, with +flat spreading branches of the loveliest shade of green, and their +seedling firs are well balanced. They sell a great variety of lilac trees +too.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span><b>GRAFTED LILACS.</b> A note on lilacs will not be amiss; if you notice that any +lilacs you may happen to have flower sparsely, and are poor in size and +colour it will be as well to examine the stems close to the soil, and you +will probably find a fine crop of suckers; all these must be cut away as +sedulously as those on your rose-trees, for <b>nearly all lilacs are grafted</b>, +very few kinds being sold on their own roots.</p> + +<p>The <i>forsythias</i> are <b>pretty climbers or shrubs</b>, according to the variety +chosen, much like the yellow jasmine, with its golden stars on leafless +stems. Just as the latter, however, is going out of flower the +<i>forsythias</i> are coming on, and therefore give a succession of very pretty +blossoms.</p> + +<p>Originally from China, <b>the wigelias</b> have now taken a place in many English +gardens, by reason of their fresh pink and white flowers and easy +cultivation. They bloom late in spring, and should be placed by preference +<b>against a dark wall</b>, as their flowers, being surrounded by pale-green +foliage, do not stand out sufficiently on a light one.</p> + +<p><b>THE DELICATE CEANOTHUS.</b> The exquisite summer-flowering <i>ceanothus</i> has +been mentioned before, but I notice it here again because it is one of +those <b>shrubs that should not be overlooked</b> on any account; its leaves are +somewhat like those of a heliotrope, and its flowers are bluish-mauve in +colour and borne in trusses; it blooms for many weeks and has a most +delicious scent, and should be planted out in the spring.</p> + +<p><b>A neglected but really remarkable shrub is the</b> <i>rhus cotinus</i>—<b>the smoke +plant.</b> In early August it is a striking sight, with its curious +inflorescence quite impossible to describe. At Hampton Court there are two +or three fine species.</p> + +<p><b>WINTER SHRUBBERY.</b> It will be observed that shrubs presenting a decorative +appearance in winter are <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>made much of; this is because soft-wooded plants +always look miserable then, whereas with a few berry-bearing shrubs and a +nice selection of bulbs, we may have a <b>pretty garden all the year round</b>. +Once planted, however, they should not be left entirely to take care of +themselves; the soil must be enriched occasionally, if we wish for good +results, and great care taken to <b>train them in the way they should go</b>, by +pinching out shoots which would tend to give a lop-sided effect. Such +things as firs must be unobtrusively staked till they are able to support +themselves, as <b>symmetrical growth</b> is part of their charm, and we must +remember that “as the twig is bent, the tree is inclined.” <b>Standard +rhododendrons</b> require to be very carefully staked until they have a fair +hold of the ground, or their big heads are caught by the wind, and this +loosens the soil to such an extent that it is impossible for fresh roots +to be made. Generally, some of the <b>bush rhododendrons</b> should be grown +amongst the standards, and if these are dotted about with clumps of lilies +the effect is very rich. <i>Lilium tigrinum splendens</i> is <b>one of the best +for this purpose</b>, and is most brilliantly beautiful during August and +September; they are six feet in height, and the flowers are a rich orange +red, with black spots on each petal; they can be obtained for half-a-crown +the dozen.</p> + +<p><b>A lily suitable for placing amongst azaleas</b>, as it is only three feet +high, is <i>lilium speciosum album</i>; it has glistening pure-white flowers, +and a graceful habit. The shade of the shrub is most beneficial to the +lilies, as they dislike strong sunshine, and of course they are also +protected from cold in winter. The same soil, a mixture of peat, loam and +sand, suits both.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2> +<h3><b>The Ins and Outs of Gardening</b></h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Planting—Watering—“Puddling”—Aspect—Shelter—Youth and age in +relation to plants—Catalogue defects—A time for everything.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />Now that we have seen what to plant, it will be advisable to learn <b>how to +plant it</b>.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the most important point to be taken notice of is the necessity of +<b>firm planting</b>. Watch how a clever gardener presses the earth well round +the roots of everything he puts in, where the plants are large, treading +the soil down with his foot. <b>Loose planting is ruinous</b> (except in a few +isolated cases), and yet it is a favourite practice with amateurs, who +call it treating their flowers tenderly! But, as with the human kind, <b>a +judicious mixture of firmness and tenderness</b> is the happy medium to be +aimed at, and which alone insures success.</p> + +<p><b>A good watering</b> helps to make the soil settle as much as anything; +therefore, when put into the ground the plants should be well soaked, +after which they should be left for a few days, with the exception of +<b>overhead watering</b>, which is most refreshing. In very hot weather, it is +often possible to transplant with perfect safety, if the roots are put +into “puddle.”</p> + +<p><b>PLANTING IN “PUDDLE.”</b> “Puddle” is a very expressive gardening term, which +signifies soil mixed with so much water as almost to have acquired the +consistency of a paste. <b>Operation 1</b>—well water the plant to be removed; +<b>operation 2</b>—dig the hole which <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>is to receive it; <b>operation 3</b>—fill the +same with water up to the rim; <b>operation 4</b>—carefully take up your plant +with plenty of soil round it; <b>operation 5</b>—gently place it in hole +prepared, the walls of which will then be thoroughly soaked; <b>operation +6</b>—fill in with the “puddle” above referred to; <b>operation 7</b>—tread gently +but firmly down; and, lastly, scatter a little dryer soil on the top. +Flowers planted in this fashion can be taken up even during June, July and +August; and, if properly looked after, will scarcely flag at all.</p> + +<p><b>EFFECTS OF ASPECT.</b> The influence of aspect on plants is an interesting +study; we all know that a shrub on a south wall is practically in a +different climate to a shrub on a north wall. One reason why tender plants +do so well on a <b>south or west aspect</b> is because the sun does not reach it +till some hours after it has risen and warmed the air. The <b>sun shining on +half-frozen buds</b> often has a disastrous effect on plants climbing walls +with an eastern aspect; consequently, a north wall is often better for a +delicate plant, if the warmest aspect cannot be given it; camellias, for +instance, when outside prefer it to any other. <b>If a succession of one kind +of flower is desired</b>, a group facing each corner o£ the compass will often +accomplish this, sometimes as much difference as a month being noted. +Certain unimpressionable plants refuse to alter their season of blooming, +but, as a rule, it is a sure method of attaining this object. <b>Colouring is +also vastly influenced by aspect</b>; such things as pansies, for example, +never show such rich markings under a hot sun, but require an east border +to bring out their true beauties. Scotland suits them admirably, with its +cool summer nights and moist atmosphere.</p> + +<p><b>THE IMPORTANCE OF SHELTER.</b> Shelter has a great deal to do with success in +a garden; in the ordinary town garden, the builder has generally been only +too obliging in this respect, but in bleak hilly spots it might almost be +called the gardener’s watchword.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> Few things except Scotch firs and the +like will stand a <b>long-continued high wind</b> with impunity; not only does it +wrench the plants out of the soil, but, if it comes from a cold quarter, +both flowers and leaves curl up at its approach and refuse to thrive; they +become nipped in the bud, as at the touch of frost. Everyone has +experienced the meaning of shelter when out in a cold nor’-easter; how it +bites one, making the blood stand still with its fury! then, all at once, +we round the corner, and hey presto! all is changed; the air is quite +caressing, and the blood tingles to our very finger-tips from the sudden +reaction. With due regard to shelter, then, <b>climates can be “manufactured” +without glass</b>. In extensive grounds, these wind-breaks are made by +planting lines of trees, but in smaller spaces it may be done differently. +The construction of <b>light fences</b>, not over five feet in height, run up +inside the compound, accomplish a good deal, as may be seen by any visitor +to the nurseries of Messrs. Barr, at Long Ditton; they are <b>not ugly if +well clothed</b>, and make an effectual break in a much shorter time than +would be the case if fruit-trees were planted, though there is nothing +prettier than a row of apple or pear trees, grown espalier fashion, if +time is no object. Many things will nestle beneath them, and flower +beautifully for months together, for, though these fruit-trees are +deciduous, the force of the wind is considerably lessened by them, on the +same principle that <b>fishing-nets are such a protection from frost</b> to +wall-climbers; and this again may be compared to the veils which ladies +use to protect their skin. Though of wide mesh, the fishing-nets will keep +off five or six degrees of frost, and in certain cases are better than a +closer protection, like tiffany, which sometimes “coddles” the trees too +much.</p> + +<p><b>A few words on the respective qualities of youth and age</b> may not be amiss. +Amateurs are so often disappointed in their garden purchases, because they +will not allow the plants sufficient time to demonstrate their +capabilities. <b>Catalogues are much<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> to blame</b> in this respect; an enticing +description of a shrub is given, and the confiding amateur orders it, +believing that in a year or two it will fulfil its character. How can he +be expected to know that that particular variety never bears any flowers +worth speaking of till it is at least seven years old! In the long run, I +think nurserymen will find it pay to tell the whole truth regarding each +plant they send out, not merely in a negative way either. If an alpine, +for example, like <i>linnea borealis</i>, is extremely difficult to grow and +flower in this country, it is only fair to say so; to place it amongst a +lot of easily-cultivated plants without a word of warning is <b>not +straightforward dealing</b>, moreover is apt to make people disgusted with the +whole thing. Some plants bloom much the best when in their first youth; +this is the case with many of the soft-wooded plants, which soon give +signs of exhaustion, especially in a light soil. When it is noticed that +the outside flowering stems produce finer blossoms than those from the +centre, it is generally <b>a sign that division is required</b>, and that the +soil wants enriching.</p> + +<p><b>THE CALENDAR.</b> That there is <b>a time for everything in gardening</b> is almost a +truism; the calendar is considered one of the most important parts of a +technical book on this subject. It is advisable for an amateur gardener to +<b>have a note-book</b>, in which he jots down what he has to do several weeks or +months in advance; so often some fault easily remedied is left over from +year to year, because perhaps it is only observed in the summer, and +cannot be mended till winter. Recently, the calendar has not been given +quite so much prominence; gardeners find out more and more that the +weather is not governed by it, and that though one year it may be best to +sow a certain seed at the beginning of February, another season may be so +cold that it will have to go in at least a fortnight later. Nevertheless, +taken roughly, this diary of events, as the dictionary calls it, holds +good for most years, and it is wise to stick to it as far as possible.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2> +<h3>The Profitable Portion</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Fruit—The best kinds for a small garden—Avoidance of size minus +flavour—Vegetables—Herbs.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />If a small garden has room for any fruit-trees, <b>apples are the most useful</b> +kind to grow; they can be so trained as to take up little room; for +instance, in <i>espalier</i> fashion, down each side of a sunny walk. These +<b>apple-hedges</b> are a lovely sight in spring and also in the autumn, when the +ruddy fruit is waiting to drop into the outstretched hand. Though names +can easily be given, it is generally a good plan to <b>make enquiries in the +neighbourhood as to the best varieties</b> to grow, for so much depends on +soil and position. Colloquial names are often given, which require +identifying with existing varieties; this can be done by sending up a +specimen of the fruit to the manager of a correspondence column in some +reliable gardening magazine. These gentlemen are generally able to give +the desired information, and no charge is made. <b>A surer method</b> still is to +send the fruit which it is desired to identify to some well-known +nurseries, such as those of Messrs. Rivers at Sawbridgeworth, +Hertfordshire; they have acres upon acres of splendid fruit-trees of every +kind, and my readers cannot do better than purchase all they require from +them. Having such wide experience, they can recommend varieties suitable +for all kinds of soil and all sorts of positions. For small gardens, +apple-trees grafted on <b>the paradise stock</b> are much to be recommended, as +they are compact in habit, taking up but little room and <b>begin bearing +almost at once</b>. Messrs. Rivers guarantee their trees on this stock to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +continue in full-bearing for many years. “Plant pears, and you plant for +your heirs” is the old saying, but this is all changed now that the <b>quince +stock</b> is used so much. <i>Cordon</i> pears on wire fencing bear first-rate +crops, and are particularly good for small gardens; the diagonal cordon is +perhaps the best. <b>Cooking pears</b> can be grown on north walls, but it is not +advisable to try dessert varieties on such a cold aspect.</p> + +<p><b>STONE FRUIT.</b> To grow stone fruit successfully, <b>the soil must contain a +fair quantity of lime</b>; moreover the trees, especially if trained against +walls, must be kept well-watered at the stoning period. After the fruit +has been picked, less moisture is required.</p> + +<p><b>Standard plants are very profitable</b>, as crops of currants and gooseberries +can be grown beneath them; this double system of cropping the ground being +a great advantage where space is a consideration. <b>Plums</b> require little +pruning, and are also not so liable to attacks of birds as other fruit. +When ordering, <b>do not get too many trees of one variety</b>, a good selection +will give a long succession of fruit; this applies to all kinds of +fruit-trees.</p> + +<p><b>Currants are a very manageable fruit</b>, as they do well in almost any +position; heavy crops can be secured from bushes planted on north borders, +the <b>black currant</b> thriving though it only gets a minimum of sunshine; +<b>gooseberries</b> are not exacting either, and will give a good return for a +small amount of labour. Both may be propagated by cuttings, and are very +reasonable in price, only costing about four shillings a dozen. Messrs. +Rivers’ stock of <b>maiden peach-trees</b> and <b>nectarines</b> is unsurpassed, and +many of the best kinds obtainable have been raised by them, and are of +worldwide fame. Regarding that oft-debated question of protecting the +blossom in spring, they do not advise anything in the nature of bracken to +be used, this often doing more harm than good. If possible, <b>a glass coping</b> +should be placed along the top of the wall, from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> which tiffany can depend +on cold nights; unless this be done, it is best to leave them alone. Fine +crops are often obtained in the south and west of England without any +protection whatever, the good seasons amply compensating for the bad.</p> + +<p>It occasionally happens that the amateur has an advantage over the market +grower. This is particularly the case where one wants to curtail the +<b>depredations of birds</b>; it pays to protect a few yards of fruit, but where +it is a case of several acres, the trees have to take their chance. +<b>Cherries</b> have to be watched very carefully in this respect; it is very +desirable to keep the <b>Morello cherries</b> hanging long, as they then become +sweeter and make good tarts. These trees do very well on north walls.</p> + +<p><b>WANT OF FLAVOUR.</b> One great fault noticeable in fruit-growing of recent +years is that everything is sacrificed to size and appearance, flavour +being at a discount; the shows have had a great deal to do with this; in +the old days, when they were fewer in number, the test of a fruit was its +taste. <b>Strawberries</b> in particular have deteriorated in this way, the huge +kinds now seen often being absolutely devoid of the luscious flavour +generally associated with them. Of course we have <b>better keeping +varieties</b>, and they can be obtained much later than was once the case. If +the culture of the perpetual varieties is extended strawberries will be in +season many weeks longer, and this will be extremely good news for +invalids, who find it as a rule one of the easiest fruits to digest. <b>The +cultivation of strawberries is fairly easy</b>, but their wants must be +regularly attended to. Once in three years the old plants must be taken +up, and new ones (the “runners” issuing from the old) planted instead; in +the summer a good mulching of strawy manure should be placed between the +rows, as this helps to keep the fruit clean, besides enriching the soil. +Plants which are expected to bear a good crop of fruit must have all their +runners<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> cut off as fast as they appear, as it exhausts the plants much to +bear both. <b>Strawberries are partial to rather a light soil</b>, but nearly all +other fruit-trees revel in a mixture of loam and clay, with a little sand +to keep it open. This soil does not suffer so much from drought, and, +being firmer, the larger trees can send their roots down and get a far +better hold of the ground than is possible in shingly, poor soils.</p> + +<p><b>ORNAMENTAL AND USEFUL.</b> <b>Vegetables</b> take up a good deal of room in a garden +if they are wanted all the year round, but a few things can be easily +grown. <b>Scarlet runner beans</b>, being ornamental as well as useful, are some +of the best vegetables to grow, as they can be made to form a convenient +screen for a rubbish heap. These can be brought up from seed sown early in +April, and, when a foot high, require sticks; these come rather expensive +if new ones are used every summer, but with care they will last two and +even three seasons, though latterly they become very brittle. On the +rubbish heap, <b>marrows</b> can be grown with the greatest facility, as they +revel in the rich warmth there found. They should be bought when a few +inches high, and planted out at the end of May, as they are only half +hardy. When the flower at the end drops off they are ready to cut; if +allowed to get much larger they lose all their flavour. A few, however, +should be allowed to become quite ripe, as they can be used in the autumn +for making apple-tart, two parts apple to one part marrow, and they also +make <b>a good jam</b> when spiced with ginger, etc.</p> + +<p><b>RELATIONS OF THE SUNFLOWERS.</b> <b>Jerusalem artichokes</b> will flourish on a north +border, and come in very nicely during November; they are planted in +exactly the same manner as potatoes, that is, by means of pieces +containing two or three “eyes,” which should go in about February. Like +potatoes, too, they can be stored; though so tall, they do not require any +sticks; these artichokes present much the same appearance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> as the ordinary +cottager’s sun-flower (indeed, the botanical name is identical, +<i>helianthus</i>), having thick, hollow stems, covered with long, pointed, +hairy leaves.</p> + +<p><b>Potatoes are rather “kittle-kattle”</b> for amateurs, but where the soil is +light they should certainly be tried, especially where there is room for a +rotation of crops, as successive planting should not be made in the same +place. Beware of giving rank manure to them, a sure precursor of disease; +artificial manures, such as guano are far more suitable. <b>No trees must be +allowed near them</b>, but a sunny open piece of ground be given up to them. +March is the month to plant and the rows should be from fifteen inches to +two feet apart.</p> + +<p><b>Carrots and turnips</b> also prefer a light soil and sunny situation. Seeds of +both should be sown in March, when the soil is in a friable condition, +several times subsequently; the seeds must be well thinned out, and the +space between the rows constantly turned by the hoe; the latter operation +is particularly needful in heavy land, as it not only destroys weeds, but +prevents the soil from caking: the rows should be about a foot apart. +Before the turnips are ready, the young green tops make a vegetable by no +means to be despised.</p> + +<p><b>Herbs</b>, such as mint, parsley, mustard and cress, should be grown in every +garden, as they take up but little space and are so much dearer to buy. +<b>Mint</b> is perennial, and will come up year after year, giving no trouble +whatever; it spreads rapidly and will grow anywhere. To start a bed, roots +can be bought from some market-gardener, or cuttings can be struck from +the bunches bought in the shops.</p> + +<p><b>Parsley</b> is a biennial, though generally grown as an annual, because the +leaves from young plants are much the best; the seeds should be sown two +or three times a year, beginning about February, in a sheltered nook; <b>this +herb likes plenty of sun</b>; even the curliest <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>varieties degenerate if +placed in a damp shady situation. It prefers light soil, and gives a +better winter supply than where the soil is heavy. Flower-heads must be +cut off regularly to keep the plants in good condition, though just a few +of the best kinds may be allowed to perfect their seed, which should be +sown as soon as ripe. <b>Mustard and cress</b> should also be sown several times +during the summer; the cress must be sown three or four days before the +mustard, to obtain them ready for cutting at the same time; both must be +cut almost directly they appear, as, if allowed to grow tall, they become +tough, and their flavour is lost; these seeds require no thinning out, the +exception that proves the rule.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2> +<h3>Annuals and Biennials</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>How to grow annuals—Some good kinds—Some good biennials.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />Many amateurs look upon annuals as rubbishy things to grow, and only +suitable for the children’s gardens, but that is because they have +generally failed to grow them properly. With the improved kinds now in +cultivation, it is possible to make the portion of the flower-garden +devoted to them “a thing of beauty” if not “a joy for ever.” As it is more +satisfactory to bring them up from the beginning, I have described in +<a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">Chapter XVI</a>. a method generally successful. <b>Seed-sowing out-of-doors</b> being +rather precarious, I have found it advisable to <b>sow all the smaller seeds +either in a green-house or frame</b>, however hardy the annual be. This not +only saves endless trouble in the way of protecting the seed from birds, +etc., but is advantageous in that one has an earlier display of bloom, +owing to the growth being quicker under glass. Below is a table of the +choicest kinds:—</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="table"> +<tr><td colspan="3" align="center">ANNUALS.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><span class="smcap">Name.</span></td><td align="center"><span class="smcap">Length.</span></td><td align="center"><span class="smcap">Colour.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Bartonia aurea</td><td>1 to 1½ ft.</td><td>Golden yellow.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Celosia plumosa</td><td>1½ ft.</td><td>Red and yellow.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Somewhat after the style of Prince’s feather; tender.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Coreopsis (or Calliopsis)</td><td>2 ft.</td><td>Yellow and red.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eschscholtzia</td><td>1 ft.</td><td>Bright yellow.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Very pretty grey-green foliage; select.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>Gaillardia</td><td>1½ ft.</td><td>Yellow and red.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(The “blanket flower”; good for cutting.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Godetia</td><td>9 ins.</td><td>Red to white.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Cup-shaped; showy.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Mesembryanthemum</td><td>½ to 1 ft.</td><td>Ice plant.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Grown for its foliage, which glistens beautifully; must have sun.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Ionopsidium acaule</td><td>2 to 3 ins.</td><td>Pale mauve.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Miniature plants for filling up crevices in rockwork.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Linum coccineum</td><td>1 ft.</td><td>New scarlet variety.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Lupinus arboreus, “Snow-queen”</td><td>3 to 4 ft.</td><td>Pure white.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(A very stately plant; new.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Nemophila grandiflora</td><td>½ ft.</td><td>Beautiful blue and white.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Remind one of the eyes of a child.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Phlox drummondi</td><td>1 ft.</td><td>All shades of red to white</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Half-hardy; must be massed.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Shirley poppy</td><td>1 ft.</td><td>All shades of pink.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Very graceful and free; light soil.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Portulaca</td><td>½ ft.</td><td>Mixed colours.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(The most effective of all annuals; half-hardy; must have plenty of sun and a light soil.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Salpiglossis</td><td>1½ ft.</td><td>All shades.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Very fragile flowers, veined and marked in exquisite fashion; must be massed.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Silene pendula compacta</td><td>½ ft.</td><td>Bright pink.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Flowers shaped somewhat like a Maltese cross.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Stocks, double, ten-week</td><td>1 ft.</td><td>Various.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(When thinning, only keep the weakest seedlings, as those are the double ones.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3" align="center">BIENNIALS.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3" align="center">These, if sown one spring, will not flower the following summer, but do so the year after.</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><span class="smcap">Name.</span></td><td align="center"><span class="smcap">Length.</span></td><td align="center"><span class="smcap">Colour.</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Fox-gloves</td><td>3 to 4 ft.</td><td>White and coloured</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(White, most picturesque; all do well in shade; unless seed is required, cut out main stem, when side shoots will flower.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Lunaria biennis</td><td>1½ to 2 ft.</td><td>The old “honesty.”</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Much prized for its silvery seed-pods.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Polyanthus</td><td>½ ft.</td><td>Mixed colours.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Admirable for shady places; water well.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Japanese pinks</td><td>1 ft.</td><td>Deepest crimson to white.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Fringed petals; a whole bed of this is lovely.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Sweet Williams</td><td>1 ft.</td><td>Mixed shades.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Auricula type, the best; there is a novelty, blackish-maroon in shade, which should be placed amongst some of the crimson varieties.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Snap-dragons</td><td>2 ft.</td><td>Varied.</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="3"><span style="margin-left: 2em;">(Flower from June to November; eschew reds of a mauve hue.)</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>Wallflower, “Ruby Gem”</td><td>2 ft.</td><td>Reddish violet.</td></tr></table> + + +<p>The seeds of all these, true to name and ripe for germination, may be +obtained from Messrs. Barr, Long Ditton, Surrey, who sell sixpenny packets +of all these kinds; small quantities of the well-known sorts only costing +threepence. This is a <b>great advantage to owners of small gardens</b>, as one +does not wish to give 1s. 6d. or 2s. 6d. for perhaps two thousand seeds of +one variety, when only two or three dozen are required. Penny packets of +seeds may be had from the One and All Company at most greengrocer’s, and +are really wonderful value for the money.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2> +<h3>Window Boxes</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>How to make them—Relation of box to residence they are intended to +adorn—Suitable soil—Window plants for different aspects.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />Where gardens are small, one seems to need window boxes more than where +there is land and to spare. They add to the number of one’s flowers, and, +if carefully looked after, decidedly <b>improve the appearance of a house</b>. +That is a large “If” though, for unkempt boxes only make it look untidy.</p> + +<p><b>FLOWERS FIRST, BOX SECOND.</b> Though the tiled sort obtain a good deal of +patronage, nothing really looks much better than boxes covered with virgin +cork, if constantly renewed, for it acts as <b>a foil to the flowers</b>, whereas +patterned tiles are rather apt to take one’s attention away from them. In +summer, certainly, they have the advantage of preserving the earth in a +moist condition, and in smoky towns they help to give a bright, clean look +to the houses so decorated. Old-fashioned houses, however, should always +have their window boxes made in the virgin cork style, as they accord +better with their surroundings.</p> + +<p>When strong wooden boxes have been procured, it is quite easy to tack on +the cork one’s self, provided one has a sharp knife and a good supply of +long nails, and it is <b>most fascinating work</b>; it is advisable to wear +gloves during the process, as the hands may become rough otherwise. Seven +pounds of the cork may be had for a shilling of any seedsman, and three +lots will do two boxes of the average size. <b>The soil should be fairly +light</b>, like that used for potting, but before the <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>boxes are filled, +several holes, bored with a red-hot poker, should be made in the bottom, +and a thin layer of “crocks” spread over them; do not quite fill the box +with soil, but leave an inch or two free to allow of watering, and even +more if a layer of moss or <b>cocoa-nut fibre</b> is used to cover the surface of +the soil; this is certainly an improvement till the plants get large +enough to cover it themselves. Only <b>artificial manures</b> must be used to +fertilize the roots, and even those must not be given too often, but only +in the hot weather, when growth is quick, as they are stimulating to a +great degree.</p> + +<p><b>Constant renewals are necessary</b>, if the boxes are to look gay all the year +round; even the best gardeners acknowledge this. If continuous bloomers +are chosen, however, the cost is considerably modified. Perhaps the <b>winter +shrubs</b> are the most expensive item; yet they are often chosen without much +regard to cheerfulness; indeed, the favourite kinds present a most +funereal appearance.</p> + +<p><b>Aspect</b> has always a good deal to do with the selection of plants, but in +the case of windows facing north and east, it is the cold winds more than +the absence of sun which restricts the choice. Shelter is a great factor +in their well-being.</p> + +<p><b>SHOWY IN WINTER.</b> In a cosy box with a western exposure, and protected on +the north, the golden-tipped <i>retinosporas</i> make <b>a pretty show during the +cold months</b> of the year, and form a welcome change from the prevailing +dark green tones. <i>Cotoneasters</i>, <i>pernettyas</i>, and the variegated +<i>euonymus</i> are also very suitable. The polypody ferns, being evergreen, +look very well too, and <b>will thrive facing all four points of the compass</b>. +In the spring, <b>dwarf wall-flowers</b>, interspersed with different kinds of +bulbs, make the boxes look bright, and the new <i>pyrus maulei</i> is also very +pretty at this season. The <b>perennial candytuft</b>, too, is a splendid flower +for late spring, particularly <i>iberis<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> correafolia</i>, which has a neat +habit, and bears quantities of snow-white flowers; it likes sun, and not +too much moisture. The <b>yellow jasmine</b>, which is so pretty in winter, looks +extremely well when allowed to droop over the edges of a box, as it +flowers in quite a young state. The mossy <i>saxifrages</i> are suitable for +the edges of the box, and are always ornamental; their charming white +flowers, supported on red stalks, appear about May.</p> + +<p>Such <b>bulbs</b> as the Duc Van Thol tulips are very bright, and mix well with +the shrubs; they should be put in some time in October. <b>Crocuses</b> look +well, too, but should not be placed in the same box as the tulips, or too +gaudy an appearance will result. A thick planting along the front of the +box of the Starch hyacinth—<i>muscari</i>—is <b>uncommon</b>, and an exceedingly +nice thing to have, as the moment the window is open fragrant whiffs, +resembling new-mown hay, pour into the room, especially on a sunny +morning. When these bulbs have to make way for the summer flowers, it is +advisable to plant them out in the garden and use another lot next year, +as the <b>constant transplantation somewhat weakens them</b>. Of course, one +could leave them in the box during the summer, if it were not for the +unsightly decaying leaves, which <b>must on no account be cut off</b>.</p> + +<p>About the middle of May for the South of England, and a fortnight later +for the North, is the time to furnish the boxes for the summer. If the +window is small, low-growing plants and trailers should prevail.</p> + +<p><b>FOR COLD ASPECTS.</b> Some good flowers for north and east aspects are +<i>fuschias</i>, <i>calceolarias</i>, <i>begonias</i>, and the lovely white <i>campanula +isophylla</i>; the latter thrives best in such conditions, bearing finer +flowers for a much greater length of time than where the sun scorches it. +<b>These plants accord well with stucco</b>, which serves to show up their +whiteness more than anything. <b>Marguerites</b>, yellow and white, also thrive +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>in the cooler windows of a house, and are not so exigent in the matter of +watering when so placed. When selecting <b>begonias</b> for boxes it is well to +choose the single varieties with moderate-sized blossoms; the big flabby +ones soon become spoilt by rain, and are not produced so freely, nor is +their habit of growth so good.</p> + +<p><b>For hot situations</b> the double geraniums are splendid, but they should not +be mixed with lobelias, as they look infinitely better when grouped by +themselves, the shades ranging from dark crimson to the palest +salmon-pink.</p> + +<p><b>PRETTY TRAILERS.</b> The quick-growing <i>tradescantia</i> with its many-jointed +stems and glossy bright green leaves, softens <b>the somewhat formal +appearance of the geraniums</b>, and will cover all the bare soil in a +marvellously short space of time, and droop over the edges in long +streamers; it is quite distinct from the tall <i>tradescantias</i> mentioned in +a former chapter, and is the easiest thing in the world to propagate, as +any little bits saved over from a bouquet will make roots in a bowl of +water, or they can be “struck” in the ordinary way in a pot under glass. +The variegated <i>tradescantia</i> is <b>a very choice trailer</b>, but a little more +tender than the other, and requires a sunny position, while the plain +green variety will do anywhere outside in the summer, even growing well +under trees.</p> + +<p><b>For autumn</b> there are the <b>hardy chrysanthemums</b>, and if dwarf varieties with +fibrous roots are chosen, a very good show can be made with these till the +middle or end of November. The protection afforded them by the house keeps +them in good condition longer than when they are in the open, especially +when a thin veiling, such as tiffany, is afforded them on cold nights. +Even newspapers will keep out several degrees of frost, and form a very +cheap method of protection.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2> +<h3>Table Decoration and Flowers in Season</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Graceful arrangement—How to manage thick-skinned +stems—Colour-schemes—Bad colours for artificial light—Preserving +and resuscitating—Table of flowers in season.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />The fashion of decorating tables to the extent now done is of +comparatively recent date. When the duties were taken off the importation +of foreign flowers, they became so much lower in price that the great +middle-class could afford to buy some even in mid-winter. In the British +Isles themselves, too, the carriage of flowers is much cheaper and more +expeditious, though there is plenty of room for improvement still in that +respect. <b>The manner of arranging</b> them has much altered, for, instead of +cramming a clumsy vase to its utmost limits with a dozen different flowers +of as many shades, only one, two, or at most three, kinds are now used, +and these are set out in as <b>graceful and airy</b> a manner as possible. <b>Plain +glass vases</b>, as a rule, show the blossoms off best, though pale green or +ruby occasionally looks very well. The water need not be changed every day +in all cases; it depends on the flower; wall-flowers, for instance, turn +the water putrid very soon, while it keeps fresh much longer where roses +are concerned. <b>The vases should, however, be filled up once a day</b>, as the +stems suck up moisture rapidly. Hard-wooded flower stalks should receive +special attention, or they will droop directly.</p> + +<p><b>STEM-SPLITTING.</b> Lilac, when cut and placed in water will absorb no more +moisture than a lead pencil, unless the stems are split up; this can be +done<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> either with a hammer or a knife or both. As many leaves as possible +should be left on the stems, for when under water they largely help to +make the blossoms last well; it is only where the stalks are nearly +leafless that the splitting and peeling is necessary.</p> + +<p><b>Maidenhair fern may be made to last</b> much longer if the end of the black, +wiry stem is hammered for about an inch up.</p> + +<p>It must not be forgotten that <b>cutting from a plant strengthens it</b>, and +induces it to continue sending up flower-stalks. People often seem chary +of cutting their roses with any length of stem, I suppose because it has +leaves and shoots all the way up, but this is an error; they should be cut +with about eight or ten inches of stalk; pansies and <i>violas</i> also look +much more natural when a portion of the shoot is cut along with each +blossom.</p> + +<p><b>BY PARCEL POST.</b> On hot summer days, when flowers are to be sent by post, +<b>they should be picked early in the morning</b>, several hours before they are +to be sent off, and placed in bowls of water; then, if they are packed +close together in tin, wood, or even card-board boxes they will arrive +quite fresh at their destination, where otherwise they would be hopelessly +faded. When a box of flowers is received, the contents should be put <b>in +luke-warm water</b> in a dim light for an hour or so; they can then be +re-arranged in the vases they are intended to occupy.</p> + +<p><b>BLUE—A DAYLIGHT COLOUR.</b> Some colours respond to artificial light much +better than others. <b>Most shades of blue are not suitable for decorating +dinner tables</b>, because they turn almost brown, or at best a dull mauve. In +choosing violets, therefore, for evening wear, it will be found that the +blossoms which have thin, rather washed-out petals of the lightest purple +will look best, the full blue not being nearly so effective. <b>For luncheon</b>, +an arrangement of purple <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>clematis in vases on the palest pink ground is +lovely, but does not look quite so well by gas-light, though here again if +the least velvety flowers are chosen for evening, a good effect can be +obtained.</p> + +<p><b>Yellow is a splendid evening colour</b>, but must be bright, or it will look +merely cream. A dining-room panelled in light oak, adorned with yellow +marguerites alone, is very pleasing to the eye. In the spring, <b>laburnum +makes a novel dressing for a dining-table</b>; care, however, must be +exercised with this flower, as the pods are poisonous. Blue also looks +well with brown in the day-time; larkspurs, forget-me-nots, <i>plumbago</i>, +<i>campanulas</i>, <i>nemophilla</i>, etc., all look very well. We know how artistic +blue porcelain is on oak shelves, and, if the flowers have a white eye or +are veined with white, the effect is somewhat the same. <b>Scarlet is a good +gas or electric light colour</b>, but it must be used judiciously, and as a +rule only be mixed with white, just as the ladies at a regimental ball are +generally only allowed to robe themselves in this pure shade.</p> + +<p><b>SIMPLICITY.</b> Now-a-days the decorations are rarely made so high that one +cannot see the other side of the table. Though this arrangement might +occasionally be useful in hiding the face of an enemy, on the whole it was +found inconvenient; accordingly they have climbed down; the “bazaar-stall” +fashion is also disappearing, and flat table-centres are used instead, or +none at all. Simplicity is the great cry now, and though of course it may +be costly, a charming effect is obtained with fewer flowers than was +formerly considered correct, and is moreover easily imitated by an +artistic eye in less expensive blossoms.</p> + +<p>Some of the flowers to be had in each respective season are enumerated on +p. 86. It will be noticed that where plenty of out-door blossoms are to be +had, the hot-house varieties are omitted.</p> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">TABLE OF NATURAL AND FORCED FLOWERS FOR EACH MONTH.</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="5" summary="months"> +<tr><td valign="top">JANUARY.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Christmas rose.<br /> +Yellow jasmine.<br /><br /> +<i>Forced.</i><br /> +Carnations.<br /> +Eucharis.<br /> +Gardenias.<br /> +Poinsettias.<br /> +Tuberoses.<br /> +Late chrysanthemums.<br /> +Roman hyacinths.<br /> +Odontoglossum (orchid).<br /> +Tulips.<br /> +Violet, single and double.<br /> +Narcissus.</td><td><span class="spacer"> </span></td> +<td valign="top">FEBRUARY.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Christmas roses.<br /> +Yellow jasmine.<br /> +Daphne.<br /> +Snowdrops.<br /><br /> +<i>Forced.</i><br /> +White lilac.<br /> +Carnation.<br /> +Hyacinths.<br /> +Tulips.<br /> +Geraniums.<br /> +Marguerites.<br /> +Cattleya (orchid).<br /> +Camellias.<br /> +Roses.<br /> +Dicentra.<br /> +Narcissus.</td><td><span class="spacer"> </span></td> +<td valign="top">MARCH.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Violets.<br /> +Early narcissus.<br /> +Almond blossom.<br /> +Cowslips.<br /> +Polyanthus.<br /><br /> +<i>Forced.</i><br /> +Freesias.<br /> +Lily of the valley.<br /> +Arums.<br /> +Narcissus.<br /> +Mauve lilac.<br /> +Anemones.<br /> +Lilium Harrisii.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"</span><span style="margin-left: 1.25em;">longiflorum.</span><br /> +Roses.<br /> +Azaleas.</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td valign="top">APRIL.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Daffodils.<br /> +Wallflowers.<br /> +Forget-me-not.<br /> +Tulips.<br /> +Alyssum.<br /> +Anemones.<br /> +Doronicums.<br /><br /> +<i>Forced.</i><br /> +Sweet peas.<br /> +Roses.<br /> +Carnations.<br /> +Arums.<br /> +Lilies of the valley.<br /> +Alliums.<br /> +Acacia.<br /> +Epacris.</td><td><span class="spacer"> </span></td> +<td valign="top">MAY.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Laburnum.<br /> +Poet’s eye narcissus.<br /> +Doronicums.<br /> +Trollius.<br /> +Iris.<br /> +Parrot tulips.<br /> +Lilies of the valley.<br /> +Syringa.<br /> +Lilac.<br /> +Ranunculus.<br /><br /> +<i>Forced.</i><br /> +Arums.<br /> +Ixias.<br /> +Gladiolus (scarlet and white).</td><td><span class="spacer"> </span></td> +<td valign="top">JUNE.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Sweet peas.<br /> +Roses.<br /> +Pinks.<br /> +Pyrethrums (single).<br /> +Larkspurs.<br /> +Canterbury bells.<br /> +Penstemons.<br /> +Lilies.<br /> +Columbines.<br /> +Flag iris and other iris.</td></tr> +<tr><td> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td valign="top">JULY.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Clematis.<br /> +Montbretias.<br /> +St. John’s wort.<br /> +Campanulas.<br /> +Poppies (to be picked in the bud).<br /> +Carnations.<br /> +Cornflowers.<br /> +Indian pinks.<br /> +Erigeron (like an early Michaelmas daisy).<br /> +Gladiolus.</td><td><span class="spacer"> </span></td> +<td valign="top">AUGUST.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Clematis.<br /> +Coreopsis.<br /> +Gaillardias.<br /> +Snapdragons.<br /> +Sunflowers.<br /> +Gladiolus.<br /> +Dahlias.<br /> +Roses.<br /> +Carnations.</td><td><span class="spacer"> </span></td> +<td valign="top">SEPTEMBER.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Michaelmas daisies.<br /> +Pinks.<br /> +Chrysanthemums.<br /> +Lilies.<br /> +Sunflowers.<br /> +Japanese anemones.<br /> +Roses.<br /><br /> +<i>Forced.</i><br /> +Tuberoses.<br /> +Cattleyas.<br /> +Eucharis.<br /> +Gardenias.</td></tr> +<tr><td> </td></tr> +<tr><td valign="top">OCTOBER.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Michaelmas daisies.<br /> +Chrysanthemums.<br /> +Physalis (or Cape gooseberry).<br /> +Violets.<br /> +Single Marigolds.<br /><br /> +<i>Forced.</i><br /> +Salvias.<br /> +Marguerites.<br /> +Tuberoses.<br /> +Eucharis.<br /> +Odontoglossum.<br /> +Cattleya.<br /> +Bouvardia.<br /> +Roses.<br /> +Carnations.</td><td><span class="spacer"> </span></td> +<td valign="top">NOVEMBER.<br /><br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Michaelmas daisies.<br /> +Chrysanthemums.<br /> +The gladwin iris (berries).<br /> +Violets.<br /><br /> +<i>Forced.</i><br /> +Eucharis.<br /> +Geraniums.<br /> +Marguerites.<br /> +Salvias.<br /> +Carnations.<br /> +Chrysanthemums.<br /> +Odontoglossum.<br /> +Cattleya.<br /> +Bouvardia.<br /> +Camellias.</td><td><span class="spacer"> </span></td> +<td valign="top">DECEMBER.<br /> +<i>Natural.</i><br /> +Yellow jasmine.<br /> +Christmas roses.<br /><br /> +<i>Forced.</i><br /> +Salvias.<br /> +Cypripediums.<br /> +Violets.<br /> +Poinsettias.<br /> +Geraniums.<br /> +Chrysanthemums.<br /> +Lilies of the valley.<br /> +Roman hyacinths.<br /> +Coelogyne (orchid).<br /> +Narcissus in variety.</td></tr></table> + +<p><b>The cost of a flower is always in proportion to its blooming time.</b> If +lilies of the valley are wanted in August, they must be paid for heavily, +as retarded bulbs (those which have been kept in ice) are used to produce them.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI</h2> +<h3>The Propagation of Plants</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>By dividing—By cuttings—By seeds—By layers.</i></p></div> + +<p><br /><b>Propagation may be affected in various ways</b>, of which division is perhaps +the easiest. It must be done very carefully, or decay will set in. Some +plants lend themselves to this form of propagation very readily; in +others, the root stock is single and obviously resents division, wherefore +it is better to try another plan. The Michaelmas daisies are good +instances of the first kind; their roots are fibrous, and soon take to the +new soil; it is tap-rooted plants which dislike division so much.</p> + +<p><b>CAREFUL DIVISION.</b> It is advisable to divide most plants in the growing +season, which is from spring to early autumn; if it is done in the winter +months, each piece frequently remains quite inert and eventually rots. The +plant should be taken up, with a fork by preference, and then pulled +carefully apart with the hand. <b>The smallest fragment of the old white +anemone will grow</b>, but few plants will stand quite so much division. Each +piece should be well watered as it is planted, and if the sun is hot some +shade improvised. Such things as <i>delphiniums</i>, <i>phloxes</i>, <i>campanulas</i>, +and quick-growing subjects in general, should not be left too long without +being divided, or the flowers will dwindle, and the plants become +straggling in habit.</p> + +<p>A good many plants which might be propagated by <b>division</b> of the roots are +propagated instead by cuttings, as the flowers come finer in every way, +and of course this method suits many plants which cannot be divided. +Chrysanthemums present few difficulties; though the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> ultimate growth of +this Japanese plant entails a vast amount of labour (if prizes are the +object in view), yet cuttings from them are the easiest things possible to +strike, even easier than a geranium, as there is no damping off. <b>Cuttings +are generally struck under glass</b>, this method being the surest, even with +hardy plants. The shoots selected should be well ripened, and the cut made +squarely below a joint and be <b>taken with a “heel”</b> if possible, that is, +with a piece of the old wood attached. All but the topmost leaves should +be pinched off, and then the cuttings must be inserted round the sides of +the pot, and the soil well pressed down,—the best cuttings in the world +cannot make roots unless this be attended to. After that a good watering +should be given them, and the pots set in a shady place till they have +emitted roots, which may be known by the fact of their beginning to make +new leaves. Some cuttings root better when the cut is allowed to form a +“callus,” which in warm weather only takes a few hours.</p> + +<p><b>Rose cuttings</b> root very well out of doors on a north border, and trees +produced in this manner are often very satisfactory, but they take a long +while to come to a flowering stage, somewhat trying the patience of ardent +amateurs.</p> + +<p>One can gradually get quite a nice collection of interesting plants, by +striking all the likely shoots in the different bunches of flowers +received from friends, but it is generally best to identify them as soon +as possible, so as to give each the right treatment.</p> + +<p><b>Propagation by seed</b> is quite a fascinating employment, and is a successful +method, if pains are taken; though so many amateurs seem to fail. I have +found it the safest plan, with all except the largest seeds, to bring them +up under glass. Even the hardiest can be treated in this way, and one +feels so much more sure of the result. For one thing, birds cannot get at +them, therefore<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> there is no need to make a network of black cotton to +keep them off; neither can the cat meddle with them, and we all know pussy +is a very bad gardener.</p> + +<p><b>The pans</b> specially sold for the purpose are the best, but pots will do +very well. Fill them with fine moist soil, and press firmly down; then +scatter the seed thinly on the top, and only cover with a slight layer of +soil, afterwards placing in a dark corner. Where the seed is very small, +do not cover with any mould at all, but, as an extra protection, place a +piece of cardboard over the top of the pot, so that they shall not be +blown away. <b>Seeds like a still atmosphere</b>, moisture, warmth, and darkness. +Seeds and seedlings must not be watered in the ordinary way, but the pan +containing them should be placed in a saucer of water, when enough +moisture will be drawn up by capillary attraction. Thinning is extremely +necessary; every plant must be given room to attain its full dimensions; +where this is not done, the result is most unsatisfactory. As regards the +<b>time for sowing</b>, of course, spring is the most usual, but in the case of +annuals it will often be found a good plan to sow a few in autumn, as, by +pursuing this method, nice stocky little plants are ready for the garden +quite early in the season, and give flowers long before spring-sown seed +could possibly do so.</p> + +<p><b>Propagation by layering</b> is very useful, as cuttings of some plants will +not strike readily. Strong shoots are denuded of their leaves for a few +inches, and their stems slit up and pressed into the ground by means of a +peg; when firmly rooted, they can be detached from the parent plant by +means of a penknife. Carnations are generally reproduced in this way, as +it is the surest method of all.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII</h2> +<h3>The Management of Room Plants</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Best kinds for “roughing” it—Importance of cleanliness—The proper +way of watering them.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />The majority of English women like to see their rooms, and specially their +drawing-rooms, adorned with <b>growing plants</b>.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, a great many do not cultivate them successfully, so a few +hints will not be amiss. <b>Constant attention</b> is needed to keep plants in +perfect health, and this is exactly what is so often denied them. A lady +buys two or three ferns that take her fancy, and feels for a while quite +interested in their welfare; but, after a week or so, she leaves them to +take care of themselves, which means to dwindle, and ultimately die. Many +shillings, therefore, are constantly being spent in renewing plants which, +with proper care, should last for years.</p> + +<p>All room plants <b>must be looked after daily</b>, a few minutes every morning +being far better than an hour once a week, which is all they receive in +some homes.</p> + +<p>I will treat first of <b>palms</b>, which, though such slow-growing subjects, +seem the favourite of all for home decoration, owing to their grace of +form and good lasting properties. If you observe the roots of most palms, +you will see that, attached in an odd way to the rising stem is <b>a sort of +bulb</b>, not unlike a pigmy potato. This excrescence, which should only be +covered by a thin layer of soil, stores up nutriment for the plant’s use, +in much the same way as a hyacinth or daffodil does. This accounts in a +great measure for its power in enduring<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> dryness of the soil without +flagging, which property, however, should not be abused. Palms should be +watered as regularly, though not so often, as more sappy plants.</p> + +<p><b>THE CORRECT WAY TO WATER.</b> Numbers of people do not know how to give water +in the correct way, whereby the florist prospers! <b>The golden rule</b> is never +to water a plant until it requires it, and then to do it thoroughly. It is +fatal merely to moisten the top of the soil, and to leave the deeper roots +dry. First give <b>a sharp tap to the pot</b>; if it rings, water is required; +if, on the contrary, a dull sound is given out, the soil is wet enough. +Lifting a pot is a sure test too, as one’s hand soon becomes accustomed to +the difference in weight of a moist and dry pot; the former, of course, +being so much heavier. Always see that the water runs through the hole at +the bottom of the pot, then you may be sure that each particle of soil is +wet, and not till then. If you possibly can, it is best to <b>use water of a +corresponding temperature to that of the room they are in</b>; this is most +important with delicate plants. Large, shiny, horizontal-leaved plants +require a weekly sponging to remove the inevitable dust which settles on +them. <b>Gloves should be worn</b> while this is being done, as contact with the +skin turns the edges of the leaves yellow; also gloves, of course, help to +keep the hands soft and white. Plants with large leaves should never be +watered overhead, unless immediately wiped dry, as each drop allowed to +stand on the leaf turns yellow, rots, and finally quite spoils the leaf, +so that it has to be removed. Palms will stand gas fairly well, but not so +well as <i>aspidistras</i>.</p> + +<p><b>THE BEST PLANTS FOR DARK CORNERS.</b> An <i>aspidistra</i> (please note spelling) +is <b>the best plant there is for roughing it</b>. The long, thick, dark leaves +seem to stand draughts, gas, dark corners, poor soil, and general neglect +almost with impunity. But here again watering overhead is fatal, as +regards the appearance of these plants.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>The <b>leaves should be washed once a week</b>, but I will just say here that +where one is in a hurry, and cannot wait to get a sponge and water, a good +polish with a duster is not at all a bad substitute.</p> + +<p>There are disputes occasionally as to whether <i>aspidistras</i> ever flower. +Of course, it is an undoubted fact that they do, and I can give a decided +affirmative to any who may question it. My plants flower regularly every +spring, but, as these blooms are a dull, greenish-purple in colour, and +only sit, as it were, on the top of the soil, they are naturally +overlooked.</p> + +<p>The modesty of the violet is nowhere when compared with the <i>aspidistra</i>!</p> + +<p><b>Aralias are good room plants</b>, for they have a bold and handsome form, and +glossy, bright green foliage, very like that of a fig. They do not stand +gas well, however, but, as so many houses are lighted by electricity, this +is less of a drawback than was formerly the case. If not regularly +watered, too, they have a habit of dropping their leaves; otherwise they +are of easy culture. As they grow taller, the lower leaves, even on a +healthy plant, generally drop off.</p> + +<p><b>LEGGY PLANTS.</b> It is a good way, when these and kindred plants become +“leggy,” to improve their appearance by cutting off the old root, and +making them root higher up the stem. Where the plant is valuable, it is +best to be sure of new roots before throwing away the old, but, as a rule, +<i>aralias</i> have so many joints that they may easily be induced to strike by +just pressing the stem firmly into the soil, then putting the pot in some +dark place, and keeping the soil rather dry, though the foliage must be +kept moist. <b>To be quite sure of success</b>, however, it is best to treat them +in the following manner:—Choose a handful of soil with a little loam in +it, and, wetting the stem slightly, press the soil round two or three of +the joints, and bind closely with some raffia or bass, being very careful +to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> keep the soil always moist, or the plant will fail to make roots. Some +people enclose this part of the stem in two halves of a small flower-pot, +which is a good plan, if the stem will bear the weight, as it preserves a +more even temperature.</p> + +<p><b>The hare’s-foot fern</b>—<i>Davallia canariensis</i>—with its beautiful +blue-green fronds, much divided and elegantly arched, makes the loveliest +room plant imaginable, and, though fairly common, is <b>not often seen in a +good state of health</b>. I have found that, on first buying a pot of this +fern, the leaves almost invariably turn rusty and drop off, so that, as +the new fronds sometimes do not appear for some while, an amateur might +really be pardoned for <i>imagining the plant dead</i>. This is not so; the +hare’s-foot merely resents the change of atmosphere (it has probably been +in a moist green-house), and, like most of us, takes time to settle down. +Once it has acclimatised itself, there is no better plant to be had for +the purpose. It is so essentially decorative that no one can fail to +admire it. Firm potting is important in growing the <b>davallia</b>, and it does +not seem so partial to water as most of the fern tribe. It will also stand +gas pretty well, if not shut up for the night in an atmosphere charged +with it, and this is the case with many room plants; they <b>strongly object +to being left to spend the night in the impure air</b>, though a few hours +each evening will not do them much harm. The plan of taking them out at +bed-time also prevents so much dust accumulating on their leaves, an +inevitable drawback where a room is thoroughly swept and dusted.</p> + +<p><b>Always endeavour to keep your plants well balanced.</b> In a room, it is +impossible to do this, without constantly turning the pots round, so that +all parts may get the light. In summer, this has to be attended to nearly +every day, but in winter less often, as the sun is, of course, much less +powerful.</p> + +<p>As regards <b>re-potting</b>, great care must be exercised, <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>or more harm than +good will result. Palms will grow for years in quite small pots, and do +not thrive if over-potted. On the other hand, some plants require it +annually, but, seldom or often, unless for some special reason, <b>re-potting +should always be done in the spring</b>. From the beginning of February until +the end of May, a plant may safely be shifted on, as it is called, because +all these months comprise the growing season, when fresh roots are emitted +and new leaves being produced almost daily. See that the pot is perfectly +clean and dry, and the soil in a friable condition; it should be composed +of peat, loam and sand in equal parts; a little leaf mould, where it is +for a fern proper, will be beneficial. A <b>potting soil</b> ready prepared may +be had for about a shilling a peck from any seedsman, which saves time and +trouble in mixing. Be sure to put clean crocks in at the bottom, or the +soil will become sour. Shake the pot every now and again as you fill it +up, to ensure no crevices being left; <b>loose potting</b> has caused the death +of many a fine plant. When the pot is full, press the mould down, leaving +from half an inch to an inch (according to the size) bare of soil to the +rim of the pot, to allow of watering. It is well to put a layer, about +half an inch thick, of cocoa-nut fibre on the top of the soil, as this +looks neat, and serves to show off the foliage to the best advantage. +Enough of the fibre to cover several dozen pots may be had for threepence. +Guano is good, if supplied to the plants during the warmer months of the +year. The proportions of guano to water can always be seen on the label +pasted on the outside of the tin. It is well to remember that <b>guano should +never be given to a plant when the soil is dry</b>, but always just after it +has been watered.</p> + +<p><b>Saucers or jardinieres should be emptied</b> as a rule an hour after the +plants have been watered, though where ferns seem to flourish most when +allowed to stand in water, it is well to continue the practice. In very +hot weather, this is undoubtedly of benefit to many plants, but in the +winter the soil of all pot plants should err <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>on the dry side, cold and +damp together often proving fatal.</p> + +<p><b>GOOD FOR TWO-THIRDS OF THE YEAR.</b> There are some first-rate plants which +refuse to look well for the coldest part of the year (unless one is +possessed of an hot-house), but which are really <b>capital for brightening +our rooms</b> for at least eight months in the twelve. Of these, the +<i>asparagus</i> “fern” is perhaps the most useful. It is a lovely and graceful +plant, which bears cutting, and it lasts so long, both in and out of +water. Being, however, in reality a stove plant, amateurs who have no +warmed green-house must not expect to keep it in thoroughly good health +during the winter, but so soon as the spring appears, new green stems will +shoot up in all directions, and the old fronds will soon be replaced by +bright green feathery plumes of infinite grace.</p> + +<p><b>Pteris wimsetti</b> is a charming room plant.</p> + +<p><b>Young eucalyptus plants</b> are also very pretty for decorating a room, and +are supposed to be good as a disinfectant. Their habit of growth is +uncommon, and very charming to watch, as they quickly reach to an +effective size, and make large handsome plants to set in the corners of +reception rooms. It is best to bring them up by seed, which should be sown +in February or March. <b>Spring is the best time to buy room-plants.</b></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> +<h3>Various Hints</h3> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="center"><i>Artificial manures—Labelling—Cutting off dead flowers—Buying +plants—Tidiness in the garden, etc.</i></p></div> + +<p><br />With far the larger half of our population <b>the question of cost</b> comes into +everything. There are so many claims on our purses, that the money spent +on recreations can only be a small part; moreover, is always liable to be +drawn on at any moment. Somehow, the money laid out on a garden always +seems to be grudged, especially when it is for such things as manure, so +that if that item can be reduced, so much the better.</p> + +<p><b>A “WRINKLE.”</b> One good way of buying it, is to get the boys who sweep the +roads to bring the contents of their cart to your garden instead of taking +it away. Quite a lot can be purchased for sixpence or so, and the mixture +is even more beneficial to some plants than the loads bought from the +contractor. When the neat little heaps are swept up at the roadside, +anyone may take it away. Householders can employ their own errand-boys to +do so, no charge being made whatever.</p> + +<p><b>Guano and artificial manures</b> in general are very stimulating, and must +only be given to plants in bud, or at all events full-growth. Sickly +plants or those at rest must never have it. <b>Soapsuds</b> form a mild stimulant +for rose-trees in summer, but these things do not come in place of the +manure with which the soil must be dressed in autumn; they are only +additions.</p> + +<p><b>LABELLING.</b> There has been much controversy over the labelling of plants; +it must be done very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> delicately, or the appearance of the garden is +spoilt; the word label usually presupposes a name to be written thereon, +but, in reality, <b>just a mark to show where a plant is</b>, often seems all +that is necessary, and this is very important indeed with plants which die +right down every winter. The most unobtrusive tallies must be used, and +they should be of zinc, or they will inevitably get lost. The wooden ones +are all right in the greenhouse, but no good at all outside. For +rose-trees, names are required, and <b>the “acme” labels are much the best</b> +ever invented for these, and have now been in use by all rosarians for +years; they can be had at Cant’s Rose Nurseries, Colchester, for about 1s. +3d. a dozen, post paid.</p> + +<p><b>If we would keep plants in good health</b>, all dead flowers must be cut off +regularly; this is specially important in the case of sweet peas, pansies, +and other free-flowering plants, which become poor, and soon leave off +blossoming altogether, if allowed to form seed-pods. It is <b>a good plan</b> to +go round every morning with a basket and scissors, and snip off all faded +blooms, as, when several days elapse, the work becomes long and irksome.</p> + +<p><b>As regards buying plants</b>, this comes somewhat expensive, until a little +knowledge and experience has been gained. After a while, the different +plants are known by sight, and one is able to see directly whether a +flower or shrub is well grown and of good colour. Then, instead of +ordering everything at the large nurseries, one can often pick up, in +one’s wanderings, very <b>good things at small cost</b>. Until that is the case, +it is wiser to order from some reliable firm who is sure to send out +everything true to name. People who go in for gardening, should always be +ready to learn; there are so many points which cannot be acquired all at +once. One can often gain a “wrinkle” if one keeps one’s eyes open, as the +saying is. Constant visits should be made to Kew, Hampton Court, or any +other well-kept<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> public garden, if at all within reach. A stroll round a +neighbour’s garden, too, will often give one new ideas, and the +interchange of opinions does a deal of good. A magazine keeps up one’s +interest wonderfully, and there are many specially published for amateurs. +One must not be surprised that the advice often seems contradictory. <b>The +right way of growing a plant is the way that succeeds</b>, and experience +shows how varied may be the means by which success is attained. I should +like here to warn my readers that before launching out into any great +expense, they first come to a full understanding as to what they will or +will not be able to take away. Greenhouses can be put up as <b>tenants’ +fixtures</b>, but a very slight difference in the manner of placing them may +result in a good deal of unpleasantness with the landlord, and it is the +same with rose-trees, and other shrubs and plants. Where a shrub has +attained to goodly proportions, it is really the best way to let it +remain, even though the associations connected with it may be pleasant, as +transplanting would probably mean death, in which case neither party would +have gained anything. Of course, in the nature of things, a lover of +gardening is loth to move at all, a rolling stone is not at all in his +line.</p> + +<p><b>Tidiness is most important in a small garden</b>, especially in the winter +time; plants may be allowed to get rampant in summer, but in the cold +weather, this wildness tends to make it look miserable. One sometimes sees +the brown, mildewed stalks of sunflowers and other tall plants, left on +right into December, even in a front garden, and it <b>gives such a deserted +look</b> to the place, that one longs to “have at them” there and then with a +knife. It is the same way with autumn leaves; in woods they look +beautiful, as they flutter down and make a rich, rustling carpet for our +feet, but, somehow, in the garden the beauty seems gone, and it is +generally the best plan to sweep them away as soon as possible into some +corner, where they can be left to turn into leaf mould. Of course there is +a certain beautiful<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> freedom which is very desirable in a garden, and +which no one could call untidiness. What looks lovelier, for instance, +than the jasmine, with its long sprays hanging down over the window, or +the break made in a straight-edged path by some luxurious patch of thrift +or forget-me-not? these are only fascinating irregularities!</p> + +<p><b>Winter need not be a time for idleness</b>; it must be spent in getting ready +for the spring. Tools should be overhauled thoroughly, and new supplies of +sticks and labels prepared. Plans, too, should be made for filling each +different bed, so that when the warm days arrive, and one scarcely knows +what to be at first, everything may be in train.</p> + +<p>The faculty of looking ahead must needs be used, if we wish to succeed. I +often think that <b>living in anticipation constitutes a great part of the +charm of gardening</b>. When sowing the seed, have we not bright visions of +the time when that self-same seed will bear most exquisite blossoms? When +pruning our rose trees, dreams of what they will become lend added +interest to our occupations, and, indeed, this quality of imagination +turns arduous work into a veritable labour of love, so that its devotees +always aver it is the most delightful recreation in the world.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<div class="note"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span></p> +<p class="center"><strong>JANUARY.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 37.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">In frosty weather wheel manure on to ground.</p> + +<p class="hang">See that every plant which is not quite hardy is well protected from frost.</p> + +<p class="hang">Shake off any snow which may be lying on the branches of fir trees, etc.</p> + +<p class="hang">In mild weather digging may be done.</p> + +<p class="hang">If it has not already been done cut back all deciduous trees, such as chestnuts, limes and sycamores.</p> + +<p class="hang">Prune all except the tender fruit trees, cutting back weak shoots hard, and strong ones little.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow early peas on a warm border.</p> + +<p class="hang">Do not transplant this month.</p> + +<p class="hang">Start covering rhubarb with pots or boxes for forcing, and surround them with manure.</p> + +<p class="hang">Paths may be relaid with gravel.</p> + +<p class="hang">The erection of arches, trellis work, or any alteration of this sort may be attended to.</p> + +<p class="hang">Keep all plants under glass clear of decaying leaves and anything likely to cause mouldiness.</p> + +<p class="hang">Raise temperature of greenhouses as the days become lighter.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>FEBRUARY.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 39.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Begin sowing hardy annuals outside in a sheltered position.</p> + +<p class="hang">Refrain from pruning rose-trees, or they will suffer later on.</p> + +<p class="hang">New lawns can be made now, though Autumn is the best time.</p> + +<p class="hang">See that all trees are securely staked and shoots of wall climbers well nailed in before the winds of March come.</p> + +<p class="hang">Prune remaining fruit trees.</p> + +<p class="hang">Seeds of broad beans, peas, carrots, onions, beetroot, parsley, lettuce, etc., can now be sown, though the largest sowing should be made next month.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plants under glass must have more air and more water as they begin to grow quickly.</p> + +<p class="hang">Ventilate carefully and close all the houses before sunset.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give manure to fruit trees.</p> + +<p class="hang">Look over fuchsias, dahlias, etc.; cut back and place in gentle warmth.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>MARCH.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 41.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Hardy perennials may be planted.</p> + +<p class="hang">Prune hardy rose trees.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow the bulk of flowering annuals.</p> + +<p class="hang">Cut back ivy during last week.</p> + +<p class="hang">Free the lawn of plantains and sow grass-seed on bare patches.</p> + +<p class="hang">Renew or fill up box edgings.</p> + +<p class="hang">Hoe beds and borders frequently to keep down weeds.</p> + +<p class="hang">Rose trees may be planted, though Autumn is the best time.</p> + +<p class="hang">See that bedding plants in frames have plenty of water.</p> + +<p class="hang">Clear out all dead plants and give a general tidy-up to the greenhouse.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give plenty of air from top-lights to glasshouses.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plant out Jerusalem artichokes.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow seeds of vegetables of all kinds.</p> + +<p class="hang">Pick up gravel paths, and give another layer if necessary.</p> + +<p class="hang">Protect anything newly planted from rough winds.</p> + +<p class="hang">Mulch bush fruit trees.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>APRIL.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 46.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Make last sowing of annuals and thin out those appearing above ground.</p> + +<p class="hang">Fill up gaps in the flower border.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plant out dahlias.</p> + +<p class="hang">Prune tea-roses during first week.</p> + +<p class="hang">If rather dry weather ensues keep rockery and all Spring-flowering plants well-watered.</p> + +<p class="hang">Beds must be prepared for the tender plants put out next month by turning the soil well over and thus pulverizing it.</p> + +<p class="hang">Protect tender fruit trees from late frosts.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow seeds of vegetables for succession.</p> + +<p class="hang">If the weather is hot, shading can be put on greenhouses.</p> + +<p class="hang">Bedding plants must be gradually hardened off by giving plenty of air.</p> + +<p class="hang">Mow and roll lawn frequently.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plant out potato tubers.</p> + +<p class="hang">Edgings can be planted or filled up.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>MAY.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 53.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Keep a sharp look-out for insects.</p> + +<p class="hang">Commence bedding out this month and continue all through, reserving tender things such as coleus till the last.</p> + +<p class="hang">Hoe well between annuals and keep them well watered.</p> + +<p class="hang">Carefully train the various climbers or they will grow into an inextricable mass.</p> + +<p class="hang">Fill vases and baskets.</p> + +<p class="hang">Clip evergreen hedges as this makes them break out at the bottom.</p> + +<p class="hang">Put some strawy manure between the rows of strawberries and keep well watered.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow vegetable seeds for succession.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plant out gourds, marrows, etc.</p> + +<p class="hang">If the weather is hot keep everything well watered.</p> + +<p class="hang">Transplant violets to their cool Summer quarters.</p> + +<p class="hang">Syringe frequently under glass.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>JUNE.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 59.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">If the garden is not altogether dependent on bedding plants it ought to be looking its freshest and best.</p> + +<p class="hang">See that everything has enough water.</p> + +<p class="hang">Continue to thin out flowering annuals as they increase in size.</p> + +<p class="hang">Carefully stake larkspurs, carnations, etc.</p> + +<p class="hang">If the leaves of Spring bulbs have turned quite yellow, cut them off, but not before.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give copious supplies of water to all wall plants as a slight shower of rain scarcely touches them.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give occasional doses of manure to rose trees, and pick off all faded flowers.</p> + +<p class="hang">Water rockeries.</p> + +<p class="hang">Stake runner beans.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow late broccoli.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow more lettuce.</p> + +<p class="hang">Water peaches, apricots, etc., copiously.</p> + +<p class="hang">Mulch all fruit trees.</p> + +<p class="hang">Protect cherries from birds.</p> + +<p class="hang">Draw earth up round potatoes.</p> + +<p class="hang">Water marrows well and often with liquid manure.</p> + +<p class="hang">Early this month plant out tomatoes on a south or west wall.</p> + +<p class="hang">Keep greenhouses well ventilated both day and night.</p> + +<p class="hang">Harden off azaleas before being set outside next month.</p> + +<p class="hang">Most plants under glass will want watering twice a day or they must stand in a saucer of water.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>JULY.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 62.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Look out for rose suckers and cut them off.</p> + +<p class="hang">Syringe rose trees.</p> + +<p class="hang">Mulch those going out of flower to induce them to make fresh buds.</p> + +<p class="hang">Keep faded flowers picked off.</p> + +<p class="hang">Commence propagating carnations.</p> + +<p class="hang">Take note of gaps in the flower beds and fill up from the nursery garden.</p> + +<p class="hang">Place azaleas, heaths, etc., outside in a shady place to rest awhile.</p> + +<p class="hang">Pansies which are blooming well on cool borders should have weak solutions of guano water afforded them.</p> + +<p class="hang">Cut down faded spikes of larkspur and mulch and water well.</p> + +<p class="hang">This month bedding plants are valuable as July is not a good month for herbaceous perennials.</p> + +<p class="hang">Stake the later runner beans.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plant out celery.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow more turnip seed.</p> + +<p class="hang">Syringe both wall fruit and standards.</p> + +<p class="hang">Make new plantations of strawberries.</p> + +<p class="hang">Water lawn every day if possible.</p> + +<p class="hang">Thin out the superfluous wood of fig trees and shorten gross shoots on all fruit trees.</p> + +<p class="hang">Keep everything well watered under glass.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give air all night to greenhouses.</p> + +<p class="hang">Tie up climbers to roof neatly and frequently syringe.</p> + +<p class="hang">Damp down several times daily.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>AUGUST.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 61.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Take pansy cuttings.</p> + +<p class="hang">Stake dahlias, phloxes, etc.</p> + +<p class="hang">Keep soil from caking by constant hoeing.</p> + +<p class="hang">Take cuttings of geraniums, fuchsias, etc., and strike them out of doors.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give copious supplies of water to rose trees and syringe foliage often.</p> + +<p class="hang">Cuttings of rose trees may be inserted now on a cool border.</p> + +<p class="hang">Rockeries must be constantly watered.</p> + +<p class="hang">Disentangle shoots of climbing plants and tie back artistically.</p> + +<p class="hang">Water lawn daily and do not cut too low.</p> + +<p class="hang">Cuttings of most plants may be taken now and inserted in a shady border with every chance of success.</p> + +<p class="hang">Cut down old raspberry canes to make way for the new.</p> + +<p class="hang">Protect fruit from wasps and other insects.</p> + +<p class="hang">Pinch off the tops of runner beans.</p> + +<p class="hang">Earth up celery and put out more young plants.</p> + +<p class="hang">Remove leaves which obstruct light on wall-peaches, apricots, etc.</p> + +<p class="hang">Syringe frequently.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give air day and night to greenhouses.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give constant supplies of liquid manure to chrysanthemums.</p> + +<p class="hang">Cut back climbing plants on the roof.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>SEPTEMBER.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 57.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Begin planting spring bulbs.</p> + +<p class="hang">Continue to take cuttings of bedding plants, but insert in frames now.</p> + +<p class="hang">Leave off giving outside plants stimulants.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow hardy annuals to flower next Spring.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plant out rooted layers of carnations.</p> + +<p class="hang">Thin dahlia shoots and give plenty of water.</p> + +<p class="hang">Remove rose suckers.</p> + +<p class="hang">Pluck apples and pears as soon as ripe, and put on dry shelves to keep. The fruit should not touch.</p> + +<p class="hang">Prepare ground for new plantations.</p> + +<p class="hang">On hot days fruit trees can still be syringed to keep down insects.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plant out cabbages, sprouts, etc., from the seed bed.</p> + +<p class="hang">Earth up celery.</p> + +<p class="hang">Dig up and store potatoes.</p> + +<p class="hang">Towards the middle of the month remove greenhouse shading.</p> + +<p class="hang">Thin out climbers on roof again.</p> + +<p class="hang">Save for chrysanthemums guano is little needed now.</p> + +<p class="hang">Tender plants outside should be housed at the end of the month.</p> + +<p class="hang">Pot up freesias.</p> + +<p class="hang">Damp down less often and reduce the amount of air supplied.</p> + +<p class="hang">Ferns which were not repotted in the Spring can be done now.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>OCTOBER.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 50.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Plant Spring bulbs and the madonna lily.</p> + +<p class="hang">Take up all bedding plants and house carefully.</p> + +<p class="hang">Fill the beds with polyanthus, wallflower, forget-me-not and other early flowers.</p> + +<p class="hang">This is a good month for planting most things.</p> + +<p class="hang">Begin putting in shrubs.</p> + +<p class="hang">Thin out annuals sown last month.</p> + +<p class="hang">Cut back climbing plants.</p> + +<p class="hang">Keep hardy chrysanthemums well staked.</p> + +<p class="hang">Alterations can now proceed.</p> + +<p class="hang">Continue to pick pears and apples, and go over them daily to pick out mouldy ones.</p> + +<p class="hang">Commence planting fruit trees.</p> + +<p class="hang">Raspberry plantations should now be made.</p> + +<p class="hang">Mulch strawberry beds after forking lightly between the rows.</p> + +<p class="hang">Sow early peas in sheltered situations.</p> + +<p class="hang">Store potatoes, carrots, parsnips, etc.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give liquid manure to chrysanthemums under glass.</p> + +<p class="hang">Ventilate carefully and do not damp down.</p> + +<p class="hang">Bring September planted bulbs to the light as soon as they appear above ground.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>NOVEMBER.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 43.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Plant rose trees.</p> + +<p class="hang">Mulch every rose tree in the garden.</p> + +<p class="hang">Continue planting hardy perennials.</p> + +<p class="hang">Cut down all dead stalks of dahlias, sunflowers, phloxes, etc.</p> + +<p class="hang">Finish planting bulbs.</p> + +<p class="hang">Roll lawn frequently.</p> + +<p class="hang">New ones can now be made.</p> + +<p class="hang">Continually tidy up the garden.</p> + +<p class="hang">Finish planting shrubs.</p> + +<p class="hang">Protect fig-trees by mulching and cut back some of the over-luxuriant shoots.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plant fruit trees of all kinds.</p> + +<p class="hang">Trench ground not in use that the rain and frost may sweeten it.</p> + +<p class="hang">Prune currants and gooseberries.</p> + +<p class="hang">Hoe frequently between rows of cauliflower and cabbage.</p> + +<p class="hang">Celery must be earthed up higher.</p> + +<p class="hang">Any alterations that may be in hand should be completed this month.</p> + +<p class="hang">See that oil-lamp and other heating apparatus is in good order.</p> + +<p class="hang">Look over cuttings of geraniums, etc., and remove all decayed leaves, which should be burnt.</p> + +<p class="hang">Ventilate all glass houses much less, especially during fogs.</p> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><strong>DECEMBER.</strong></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Average Temperature 39.</i></p> + +<p class="hang">Give a final glance to tender plants to see that they are well protected.</p> + +<p class="hang">Cut down faded stalks of hardy chrysanthemums.</p> + +<p class="hang">Place hand-lights over Christmas roses.</p> + +<p class="hang">This is a good time for writing new labels, preparing stakes, and making plans for the following summer.</p> + +<p class="hang">Roll gravel walks, and if mossy sprinkle with salt.</p> + +<p class="hang">Planting of fruit trees may continue if the weather be mild.</p> + +<p class="hang">Thin out gross wood to allow the air to circulate.</p> + +<p class="hang">Wheel manure on to the ground in frosty weather.</p> + +<p class="hang">Prepare vegetable seeds for sowing, by separating them from the husk, drying, labelling and sorting them.</p> + +<p class="hang">Earth up greens of all kinds with the hoe.</p> + +<p class="hang">In glasshouses avoid too much moisture at this dead season of the year.</p> + +<p class="hang">Only ventilate in mild, calm weather.</p> + +<p class="hang">Keep everything scrupulously clean.</p> + +<p class="hang">Give as much light as possible to growing things.</p> + +<p class="hang">Plants at rest should be kept dark.</p></div> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span></p> +<h2>INDEX</h2> + +<div class="note"> +<p> +Aspect, Influence of, on plants, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Conservatory, the—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cactus plants for, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hanging plants in, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How to stage, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Plants suitable for hanging baskets, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Enemies of the garden—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Earwigs, to get rid of, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Mice, to get rid of, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Slugs, to get rid of, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Wireworms, to get rid of, <a href="#Page_45">45</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Flowers—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Annuals, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Biennials, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Colours for day and evening use, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Natural and forced procurable each month, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To pack for post, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Fruit, want of flavour in, <a href="#Page_72">72</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Gardens, small—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Be original in planting, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Beds and bedding, hints for, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Border soil for, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Breaking up the straight appearance of, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Description of a small and lovely garden, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Duty of making experiments in, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Eye for colour needed in, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fruit for, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">General arrangement of, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How not to plant, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lawns, to keep in order, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Little things that tell in, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Making the most of land, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ornamental and useful, <a href="#Page_73">73</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Paths of, to keep in order, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stone fruit for, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Dell at Chertsey, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To begin well, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Walks, the, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Gardening Hints—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Art of buying plants, the, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cut off dead flowers, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Labelling, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Manures, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tidiness, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Glossary of terms used by Gardeners, <a href="#Page_7">7</a><br /> +<br /> +Greenhouses—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Advantages of, over conservatories, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Artificial heat for, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Climbers in, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Houseleeks, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Storing plants in, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">The joys of, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To manage, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Lopping one’s neighbour’s trees. A vexed question, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Monthly Hints for Gardeners—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">January, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">February, <a href="#Page_102">102</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">March, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">April, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">May, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">June, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">July, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">August, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">September, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">October, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">November, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">December, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Planting, the art of, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br /> +<br /> +Plants that are neglected but handsome—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Asters, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Campanulas, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cape Gooseberry, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Christmas roses, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Columbines, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></span><br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Coreopsis grandiflora, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Delphiniums (larkspurs), <a href="#Page_21">21</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Erigerons, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Funkias, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Heuchera sanguinea, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jacob’s ladder, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lobelia fulgens, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lychnis Chalcedonica, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Penstemons, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pink flowered anemone japonica, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Potentillas, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Saxifrages, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tradescantias & Trollius, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Violas, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Propagation of plants.<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By careful division, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By layering, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By cuttings, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">By seed, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Room Plants—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">When to buy, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Correct way of watering, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">For dark corners, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Good for two-thirds of the year, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hare’s-foot ferns, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To keep them well balanced, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Leggy plants and what to do for, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Management of, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Palms, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Rockery, The—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Apennine gems for, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bulbs for, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hints for the construction of, <a href="#Page_47">47</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Rock roses, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Suitable plants for, <a href="#Page_48">48</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Roses—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bush roses of H.P. type, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Climbers for cool walls, <a href="#Page_37">37</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dwarf teas, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Good climbers for warm walls, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hedges of, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pillar, <a href="#Page_40">40</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pruning, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Tea, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Time to plant, <a href="#Page_43">43</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Shelter for plants, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br /> +<br /> +Shrubs—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Ceanothus, The delicate, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Good all round, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lilacs grafted, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">St. John’s Wort, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Winter shrubbery, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Summer-houses—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Fragrant odours for, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How to cover, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Position of, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Table, Decoration—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Hints on, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Maidenhair, To make it last, <a href="#Page_84">84</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Simplicity in, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Stem-splitting, <a href="#Page_83">83</a></span><br /> +<br /> +Time for everything in gardening, A <a href="#Page_69">69</a><br /> +<br /> +Tool-sheds, Well stocked, <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br /> +<br /> +Trees—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Bank under, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Good plants for growing beneath, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Vegetables for small gardens, <a href="#Page_73">73</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Window Boxes—<br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Flowers for cold aspects, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Flowers for warm aspects, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">How to make, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pretty trailers for, <a href="#Page_82">82</a></span><br /> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Showy flowers for winter, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></span></p></div> + + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<div class="sidenote">Garden Seeds and Bulbs</div> + +<p class="center"><big>AMATEUR GARDENERS</big> and others should apply for our <strong>CATALOGUE</strong> before ordering elsewhere.</p> + +<p class="center">A. 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Price 1s.</p> + +<p class="right">[<i>In the press.</i></p> + +<p class="blockquot">The author has made this the study of his life, and is therefore an +authority on the subject. Technical terms have been avoided as much +as possible so as to render the book intelligible to all.</p></div> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><big>Wooings and Weddings in Many Climes</big><br /> +By Louise Jordan Miln<br /> +Author of “When We Were Strolling Players in the East,” &c.<br /> +With 48 Full-page Illustrations. Demy 8vo.<br /> +<strong>Price 16s.</strong></p> + +<p class="note">“Fascinating text.... Fascinating pictures.”—<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p> + +<p class="note">“A most attractive and sumptuously got-up volume, brightly written, and +enriched with numerous photographs.... 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A real contribution to ethnography. As to the actual +life of the Red Man of to-day, we must refer our readers to the volume +itself.”—<i>Daily Chronicle.</i></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><i>13th Thousand</i><br /> +<big>The Private Life of Queen Victoria</big><br /> +By One of Her Majesty’s Servants<br /> +With numerous Illustrations.<br /> +Crown 8vo, cloth.<br /> +<strong>Price 2s. 6d. post free.</strong></p> + +<p class="note">“It gives a charming sketch of Her Majesty as the mistress of her own +household and as the head of her large family.”—<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><big>Fun on the Billiard Table</big><br /> +A Collection of 75 Amusing Tricks and Games, with Photographs and Diagrams<br /> +By “Stancliffe”<br /> +Crown 8vo<br /> +<strong>Post free, 2s. 6d.</strong><br /> +<span class="smcap">Trick With Matchboxes</span></p> + +<p class="note">Get two outside covers of any sort of the ordinary matchboxes, large size. +Place them on the billiard table with a ball on each. Put a third ball in +a line with a pocket and the two other balls as in diagram.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/billiards.jpg" alt="" /></div> + +<p class="note">Play a hard shot with the ball on the table into the pocket through the +matchboxes, which should fly off the table, and the two balls will occupy +the places where the matchboxes stood.</p> + +<p class="note">The above is an example of one of the seventy-five tricks contained in the +book.</p> + +<p class="note">“To say that no billiard-room should be without this joyous and ingenious +little volume is nothing: there is no player, amateur or professional, who +would not get his moneysworth out of it.”—<i>Sportsman.</i></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Third Large Edition</span><br /> +<big>Besieged with Baden-Powell</big><br /> +A Complete Record of the Siege of Mafeking<br /> +By J. Emerson Neilly<br /> +Special War Correspondent of the “Pall Mall Gazette” in Mafeking<br /> +Crown 8vo<br /> +<strong>Price 1s. net; post free, 1s. 3d.</strong></p> + +<p class="note"><img src="images/head.jpg" alt="" />“Mr. Neilly tells admirably the thrilling story of the +siege.”—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> + +<p class="note">“As a realistic picture of how things actually happen, no less than as a +worthy record of one of the most splendid incidents of our history, +‘Besieged with B.-P.’ is a notable work.”—<i>Pall Mall Gazette.</i></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p class="center"><big>Towards Pretoria</big><br /> +By Julian Ralph<br /> +A Record of the War to the Capture of Bloemfontein<br /> +Bound in Real Khaki and Scarlet<br /> +<strong>Price 6s.</strong></p> + +<p class="note">“Brisk and graphic.”—<i>Scotsman.</i></p> + +<p class="note">“Distinctly one of the war books to be read.”—<i>Literature.</i></p> + +<p class="note">“Cannot fail to be popular.”—<i>Echo.</i></p> + +<p class="note">“Mr. Ralph as a descriptive writer is amongst the first of the +day.”—<i>Sheffield Independent.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><strong>C. Arthur Pearson, Henrietta Street, W.C.</strong></p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<div class="sidenote">Lawn Mowers.</div> + +<p class="center"><big>RANSOMES’ LAWN MOWERS.</big><br /> +THE BEST IN THE WORLD.<br /> +<i>Improvements possessed by no other Maker’s Machines:—</i><br /> +<br /> +New Patent Double Angle Cutters.<br /> +New Patent Ribbed Driving Rollers.<br /> +New Patent Adjustable Front Rollers.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/mower2.jpg" alt="" /></div> + +<p class="center">All Mowers sent on a Month’s Trial Carriage Paid.</p> + +<p class="center">RANSOMES’ “PATENT” AUTOMATON,<br /> +WITH CHAIN OR WHEEL GEARING.</p> + +<p class="note">The “Patent” Automaton Lawn Mowers are without a rival in design, +mechanical construction, excellence of materials, workmanship, finish, +durability, and lightness of draught. By close and frequent cutting these +machines will produce a rich velvety surface. The knives are driven by +accurate machine-made gearing, which works very smoothly and quietly, and +is completely covered to exclude dirt. <b>Made in Nine Sizes, 8 in. to 24 in. +wide.</b></p> + +<p class="center">RANSOMES’ “ANGLO-PARIS” MOWERS.<br /> +THE BEST LIGHT MACHINES.</p> + +<p class="note">The “Anglo-Paris” Lawn Mowers are suitable for small Gardens, and for +Ladies’ and Amateurs’ use; have perfect adjustment, and can be used with +or without a Grass Box. <b>Made in Eight Sizes, 6 in. to 20 in. wide.</b></p> + +<p class="center">RANSOMES’ “LION” MOWERS.<br /> +THE BEST CHEAP MACHINES.</p> + +<p class="note">Introduced to meet the demand for a very low-priced Machine of reliable +English workmanship. <b>9 in., 11 in., 13 in., and 15 in.</b></p> + +<p class="center">RANSOMES’ “HORSE & PONY MOWERS.”<br /> +THE BEST LARGE MACHINES.</p> + +<p class="note">New Patterns; New Adjustments; New Patent Spring Handles; Double Angle +Cutters. <b>Made in Six Sizes, 26 in. to 48 in. wide.</b></p> + +<p class="center"><i>SUPPLIED PROMPTLY BY ALL IRONMONGERS.</i></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Catalogues free on Application to</span><br /> +RANSOMES, SIMS & JEFFERIES, LTD., IPSWICH.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<div class="sidenote">Dobbie’s Guide</div> + +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/dobbie.jpg" alt="" /></div> + +<p class="note">DOBBIE’S CATALOGUE & COMPETITORS’ GUIDE.—224 large quarto pages, +beautifully Illustrated Lists of all Flower and Vegetable Seeds, with most +valuable, cultural notes, times of sowing, colours, heights, &c.; also all +the best flowering plants, including our world-famed Collections of +Dahlias, Pansies, Violas, Early Flowering Chrysanthemums, Herbaceous +Plants, Pentstemons, Pyrethrums, Roses, Fruit Trees, &c., &c. +“Indispensable alike to amateur and professional gardeners.” Copies per +Parcel Post on receipt of Sixpence.</p> + +<p class="center"><strong>DOBBIE & CO., THE ROYAL SEEDSMEN, ROTHESAY.</strong></p> + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<div class="sidenote">Alkan</div> + +<p class="center"><big>“ALKAN”</big> cures in <b>One Minute</b> by Inhalation. The Effect is Marvellous.</p> + +<p class="center"><big>The ONE MINUTE Cure</big></p> + +<p class="note">For Headache, Neuralgia, Toothache, Neuralgia of the Ear. This simple and +perfectly harmless remedy has cured instantaneously thousands suffering +from the above complaints. Of all Chemists and Stores, prices <b>2/9</b> & <b>4/6</b> +per bottle. Sent post paid to any part of the United Kingdom on receipt of +price. Or of the Proprietors, <b>B. & G. ALKAN</b>, <i>General Depot</i>, 150, STRAND, LONDON, W.C.</p> + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<div class="sidenote">Vegetable and Flower Seeds</div> + +<p class="center"><big>SHILLING’S SEEDS</big><br /> +ARE THE BEST FOR<br /> +AMATEURS & GARDENERS<br /> +Because they produce the finest Flowers and Vegetables.<br /> +<br /> +CATALOGUE SENT GRATIS AND POST FREE.<br /> +C. R. SHILLING, Seedsman,<br /> +WINCHFIELD, HANTS.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/gnu_fulltmb.jpg" alt="" /><br /> +<a href="images/gnu_full.jpg"><small>Larger Image</small></a></div> + +<p class="center">Manufactured solely by <big>J. LYTLE</big>, 3 BARTON ROAD, WALTON, LIVERPOOL.</p> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<div class="figcenter"><img src="images/back.jpg" alt="" /></div> + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<hr style="width: 50%;" /> +<p><b>Footnote:</b><a name="f1" id="f1" href="#f1.1">[1]</a> See Glossary, p. 7.</p> + + + +<p> </p><p> </p> +<p><b>Transcriber’s Notes:</b></p> + +<p>Punctuation has been corrected without note.</p> + +<p>Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained from the original.</p> + + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Small Gardens, by Violet Purton Biddle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SMALL GARDENS *** + +***** This file should be named 33323-h.htm or 33323-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/3/2/33323/ + +Produced by David Clarke and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Small Gardens + and How to Make the Most of Them + +Author: Violet Purton Biddle + +Release Date: August 2, 2010 [EBook #33323] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SMALL GARDENS *** + + + + +Produced by David Clarke and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. + + + + + + + + + +Small Gardens and How to Make the Most of Them + + + + +SPECIAL NOTICE. + +SEEDS + +IF YOU WANT REALLY GOOD BULBS & SEEDS AT MODERATE PRICES, SEND TO + + Mr. ROBERT SYDENHAM, + 44, Tenby Street, Birmingham. + +No One will serve you Better. + + +HIS UNIQUE LISTS + +Are acknowledged by all to be the Best, Cheapest, and most Reliable +ever published. They contain only the Best VEGETABLES, FLOWERS, AND +BULBS WORTH GROWING. + +Being the Selections of the Largest Seed Growers, Market Gardeners, and +the most celebrated Professional Gardeners and Amateurs in the kingdom. + +They also contain very useful cultural instructions. + +Mr. SYDENHAM'S Bulbs and Seeds were represented and gained First Prizes at +London, Birmingham, Preston, Newcastle-on-Tyne, Shrewsbury, Edinburgh, +etc., etc., in 1893, 1894, 1895, 1896, 1897, 1898, 1899 and 1900. + + +SWEET PEAS A SPECIALITY. + +No Flowers give so much cut bloom at so little cost and trouble if treated +as instructions sent with each collection. + +12 good varieties, 50 seeds of each, 1s. 6d.; 12 choice varieties, 50 +seeds of each, 2s.; or the Two Collections for 2s. 6d.; a Third Collection +of the 12 best varieties for Exhibition, 3s.; or the Three Collections, +5s., post free, with a packet each of the four best striped varieties +added free of charge. Generally sold at twice or three times the money. + + THE BEST TOMATOES, 3d. per packet of 200 Seeds. + THE BEST CUCUMBERS, 6d. per packet of 10 Seeds. + ALL OTHER SEEDS equally cheap and good. + +FULL LISTS POST FREE ON APPLICATION. + + + + +=PUT IT ON TOP= of your Fowlhouse, Tool or Bicycle Shed, or anything in +the shape of a shed that you are building. Ask your ironmonger for our +handy booklet, which will help you considerably with useful hints on +building all kinds of structures, and roofing them with =RED HAND ROOFING +FELT= + +If your ironmonger has not got it, you can get it free, and name of +nearest holder, from D. ANDERSON & SON, LD., LAGAN WORKS, BELFAST. + + + + +SPECIAL NOTICE. + +LAXTON'S GRAND NEW LARGE-FRUITED, EARLY STRAWBERRY FOR 1901. + + +The "Laxton," THE IDEAL AMATEURS' AND MARKET GROWERS' FRUIT. + +The Fruit that everyone must Grow! + +_A DARKER, FIRMER, AND IMPROVED "ROYAL SOVEREIGN."_ + +We believe this to be by far the =finest= of our many introductions, and +in it we claim to have combined all the good points of those two fine +varieties from which it was raised, viz, "Royal Sovereign" and "Sir J. +Paxton," and believe it to be the most wonderful Strawberry for earliness, +size, firmness, quality, hardiness, and vigour of plant combined. + + +=The following are some of its good points--= + +=Earliness.=--In earliness it is as early as "Royal Sovereign." + +=Size.=--In size it is as large as, if not larger than, "Sovereign," and +certainly larger than "Sir J. Paxton." + +=Colour.=--But in colour it is much =darker and brighter= than +"Sovereign," partaking of the rich colour and taking appearance of "Sir J. +Paxton." + +=Flavour.=--In flavour it is quite as rich as "Royal Sovereign." + +=Firmness.=--It is also =much firmer= than "Sovereign," does not rot on +the ground in damp weather, and is a far better traveller. + +=Cropping Qualities.=--Its cropping qualities are prodigious, heavier than +either "Sovereign" or "Paxton," throwing its bold tresses well above the +foliage. + +=Constitution.=--A very hardy and vigorous grower, retaining its foliage +well in winter. + +=Fast Selling Out for 1901.=--The demand for this variety has been already +very large, and as the stock is small and is fast selling out, we must ask +for early orders or we shall be unable to execute until 1902. =PLANTS IN +POTS ONLY SUPPLIED.= + +=PRICE 18s. per doz.; L5 per 100.= + +(Not less than 1/2 at the doz. and 100 rates.) As the demand is very +great, and the stock limited, the price cannot be much lower for several +years. A Handsome Coloured Plate, and full descriptive Catalogue published +shortly. + +Free on application. + + +LAXTON BROTHERS, Strawberry Plant Growers and Specialists, BEDFORD. + + + + +SMALL GARDENS + + + + +[Illustration] + +Green's Lawn Mowers + +Imitated by Many! Equalled by None! Over 270,000 Sold! + +[Illustration] + +GREEN'S GARDEN ROLLERS ARE UNSURPASSED! + +Known and appreciated throughout the World. + +[Illustration] + + + THOS. GREEN & SON, Ltd., + Blackfriars Road, LONDON, S.E., and LEEDS. + +_Please write for List, S. G., 1901. May be had from Local Ironmongers and +Seedsmen._ + + + + + Small Gardens and How to make the most of them + + + By Violet Purton Biddle + + + London + C. Arthur Pearson Ltd. + Henrietta Street + W.C. + + + + +[Sidenote: Patent Coil Stake] + +NOTICE. + + DON'T STAKE YOUR CARNATIONS + TILL YOU HAVE SEEN THE + Patent Improved Coil Stake. + +No Tying required. Stakes last a Lifetime. The Greatest Boon ever +offered to Growers. Only wants seeing. + +_Prices (Cash with Order)_:-- + + 20in., = 7/6= per 100, =1/-= per doz. + 25in., =10/6= " =1/6= " + 30in., =13/6= " =2/-= " + 36in., stouter, =17/6= per 100, =2/6= per doz. + +=A. PORTER=, Stone House, =MAIDSTONE=. + + +[Sidenote: Fruit Trees, Shrubs, Seeds, etc.] + + +THE FINEST APPLE ON EARTH IS UNDOUBTEDLY BRAMLEY'S SEEDLING, Unequalled +for Productiveness and Quality. + +ALL KINDS OF FRUIT TREES ON OFFER TO SUIT EVERY PLANTER. + +THE ROSE (the Queen of Flowers), All new varieties stocked. + +FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS A SPECIALITY. + +My Flower and Vegetable Seeds cannot be excelled. + +Send for my lists which contain valuable remarks on Profitable Fruit +Growing. Free on application to-- + +Henry Merryweather, The Nurseries, Southwell, Notts. + + +[Sidenote: Garden Netting] + +TANNED GARDEN NETTING. + +Protect your Strawberry Beds, Seeds, &c., from the ravages of birds. + +NETS OILED AND DRESSED; 36 SQUARE YARDS FOR 1/-. + +Can be sent any width or length; carriage paid on orders over 6s. + +HENRY ROBINSON, GARDEN NET WORKS, RYE, SUSSEX. + + +[Sidenote: Plants for Small Gardens] + +SMALL GARDENS AND HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF THEM + +(_COUNTRY OR SUBURBAN_). + +=Send a small Rough Plan of your Garden=, showing points of the compass, +and stating whether in town, country, or suburb, to Mr. WOOD, and he will +give you a list of PLANTS sufficient and suitable for the different +positions. Communication in regard to _Rockeries_ and _Rock Plants_ is +specially invited. List of + + ALPINES, Hardy HERBACEOUS PLANTS and AQUATICS + on application to + J. WOOD, Woodville, Kirkstall, LEEDS. + + + + +SYNOPSIS OF CONTENTS + + +CHAPTER I + +=The General Arrangement of the Garden= + +_What to go in for, and what to avoid--Brick walls--Trees, their +advantages and disadvantages, etc._ + + +CHAPTER II + +=Lawns, Paths, Beds, and Border= + +_How to keep the lawns level--Paths, and how to lay them--Beds and +bedding--The new style VERSUS the old--Flower borders and their +backgrounds--Improvement of the soil._ + + +CHAPTER III + +=On the Duty of Making Experiments= + +_Description of a small yet lovely garden--Colour schemes--A novel way of +growing flowers, the spring dell--Variety in the flower-garden._ + + +CHAPTER IV + +=Some Neglected but Handsome Plants= + +_The sweet old columbine--BOCCONIA CORDATA at Hampton Court--CAMPANULAS +as continuous bloomers--The heavenly larkspurs--Christmas roses--The tall +and brilliant lobelias--Chinese-lantern plants--Tufted pansies._ + + +CHAPTER V + +=The Conservatory and Greenhouse= + +_Mistakes in staging--Some suitable climbers--Economical heating--Aspect, +shading, etc.--The storing of plants--No waste space--Frames._ + + +CHAPTER VI + +=The Tool Shed and Summer-House= + +_Spades and the Bishop--Weeding a pleasure--Trusty thermometers-- +Summer-houses and their adornment._ + + +CHAPTER VII + +=Roses for Amateurs= + +_Teas--Hybrid perpetuals--Bourbons--Rose-hedges--Pillar roses--Suitable +soil._ + + +CHAPTER VIII + +=Enemies of the Garden= + +_Slugs, and how to trap them--Blight or green fly--Earwigs--Wireworms-- +Snails--Mice--Friends or Foes?_ + + +CHAPTER IX + +=The Rockery= + +_A few hints on its construction--Aspect and soil--A list of alpines-- +Other suitable plants._ + + +CHAPTER X + +=Trees, and How to Treat Them--Shrubs= + +_Some good plants for growing beneath trees--List of hardy shrubs-- +Climbers--Enriching the soil._ + + +CHAPTER XI + +=The Ins and Outs of Gardening= + +_Planting--Watering--"Puddling"--Shelter--Youth and age, in relation to +plants--Catalogue defects--A time for everything._ + + +CHAPTER XII + +=The Profitable Portion= + +_Fruit, best kinds for small gardens--Size minus flavour--Vegetables-- +Herbs._ + + +CHAPTER XIII + +=Annuals and Biennials= + +_Why they fail--Table of good annuals--Table of biennials._ + + +CHAPTER XIV + +=Window-Boxes= + +_How to make them--Relation of box to residence they are intended to +adorn--Suitable soil--Window-plants for different aspects._ + + +CHAPTER XV + +=Table Decoration= + +_Graceful arrangement--Thick-skinned stems--Preserving and resuscitating +flowers--Colour schemes--Table of flowers in season._ + + +CHAPTER XVI + +=The Propagation of Plants= + +_By division--By cuttings--By seeds--By layers._ + + +CHAPTER XVII + +=The Management of Room Plants= + +_Best kinds for "roughing it"--Importance of cleanliness--The proper way +of watering them._ + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +=Various Hints= + +_Artificial manures--Labelling--Cutting off dead flowers--Buying +plants--Tidiness in the garden, etc._ + + + + +TERMS USED BY GARDENERS + + +=Mulching=--Term used for applying manure in a thick layer round the roots +of shrubs, as a protection from frost. + +=Pricking off=--Transplanting seedlings into separate pots. + +="Eyes"=--Incipient leaf-buds. + +="Heel"=--The hardened part of a cutting, formed where it is joined to the +original plant. + +=Annual=--Lasting one year. + +=Biennial=--Lasting two years. + +=Perennial=--Lasting several years. + +=Herbaceous=--Term applied to plants which die down completely every +winter. + +=Deciduous=--Not ever-green; this term is applied to trees the leaves of +which fall off every autumn. + +=Suckers=--Shoots that spring up from the common stock, as distinct from +those which belong to the engrafted portion. + +=Pegging down=--Bending branches down close to the ground, and securing +them with a peg. + +=Runners=--Separate little plants, issuing from the parent, and ultimately +rooting for themselves. + +=Spit=--A spade's depth. + +="Strike"=--A term applied to cuttings making roots. + +=Pinching out=--Rubbing off undesirable shoots. + +="Blind"=--A term applied to plants which turn out flowerless. + +=Heeling in=--The process of temporarily covering plants with soil, till +the weather is suitable for setting them out in their permanent quarters. + +=Carpet-bedding=--The geometrical arrangement of plants. + + + + +_All Seeds and Bulbs sent carriage and packing free on receipt of +remittance._ + +BARR'S SEEDS FOR FLOWER & KITCHEN GARDEN OF FINEST SELECTED STRAINS +& TESTED GROWTH + +=The Best Seeds in the World= for securing a supply of Vegetables "the +year round," and for keeping the Flower Garden and Greenhouse always gay, +and with abundance of Flowers to cut for vases and bouquets. + +BARR'S 21/-Collection of Vegetable Seeds + + Contains a liberal assortment of the following useful + Vegetables:--Beans (Broad and French), Beet, Borecoli, Broccoli, + Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Capsicum, Carrot, Cauliflower, Celery, + Colewort, Corn Salad, Cucumber, Cress, Endive, Herbs, Leek, Lettuce, + Melon, Mustard, Onions, Parsley, Parsnips, Peas, Radish, Salsify, + Savoy Cabbage, Scorzonera, Spinach, Tomato, Turnip, and Vegetable + Marrow. + +Other Collections of =Barr's Superior Vegetable Seeds=:--=5/6=, =7/6=, +=12/6=, =42/-=, =63/-=, and =105/-=. Full particulars sent on application. + + +BARR'S CHOICE FLOWER SEEDS + +=BARR'S SEED GUIDE= contains a Select List of all the most beautiful +Annuals and Perennials. Special Collections for all purposes and many +Sterling Novelties. + + =12= Packets of the Best Hardy Annuals =2/6= + =25= " " " " " =5/6= + =10= " " " " Perennials =2/6= + =25= " " " " " =7/6= + +For Collections of Half-hardy Annuals or Perennials, and Seeds of Plants +for Rockwork, &c., see BARR'S SEED GUIDE, _free on application_. + + +=BARR'S= Seed Guide, containing many useful notes on culture, which will +be found of great value to Gardeners, Amateurs and Exhibitors, free on +application. + +=BARR'S= Catalogue of Hardy Perennials and Alpines, Ready in February, +Free. + +=BARR'S= Catalogue of Bulbs and Tubers for Spring Planting, Ready in +February, Free. + +=BARR'S= List of Autumn-flowering Bulbs, Ready 1st July, Free. + +=BARR'S= Catalogue of Beautiful Daffodils, Ready in August, Free. + +=BARR'S= Catalogue of Bulbs for Garden and Greenhouse, Ready 1st +September, Free. + + + BARR & SONS, + 11, 12 & 13, KING ST., + COVENT GARDEN, LONDON + Nurseries--Long Ditton, Near Surbiton, Surrey. + + + + +[Sidenote: Corpulency and the Cure.] + +"HOW STOUT YOU ARE GETTING." + +There is too often a scarcely veiled reproach in that exclamation: "How +stout you are getting!" At any rate, the corpulent one is generally +sensitive on that point, and perhaps feels a reproach where none is +intended. Certain it is that to lose the _svelte_ symmetry of youth, to +broaden out, to "swell wisibly," as Sam Weller has it, and finally to +become "fat and scant of breath," is a process at once humiliating and +distressing, especially to those who possess that keen appreciation of +personal appearance which is a part of what is termed good breeding. There +is now, however, no excuse for those who have resigned themselves to carry +to the grave the rotund proportions of a Falstaff. The perusal of a little +book entitled "Corpulency and the Cure," by F. CECIL RUSSELL, has afforded +us not a little interest and instruction on a subject that has hitherto +received but superficial attention from the medical profession. Mr. +Russell has made the cure of obesity his life's study, and judging from +the record of his achievements--over a thousand grateful letters from his +patients are printed in the book--he has been singularly successful. The +author's treatment is not by "wasting." There is no "sweating"; there are +no stringent restrictions as to eating and drinking; no drastic conditions +of any kind. The medicine prescribed is simple and pleasant, purely +vegetable, and perfectly harmless. + +Its action is two-fold; it reduces the abundant fatty tissue at a very +rapid rate--in some cases to the extent of over 1lb. or 2lbs. in +twenty-four hours--usually from 3lbs. to 4lbs. in a week (sometimes +considerably more), and at the same time it acts as a refreshing and +invigorating tonic, promoting a healthy appetite, and dispelling the +feeling of depression and extreme _malaise_ experienced by the majority of +corpulent people. "Does the fat return after cessation of the treatment?" +is a question that many will ask. No, under normal conditions it does not. + +Mr. Russell's treatment goes to the root of the malady, and, without +having the slightest pernicious effect even on the most delicate persons, +eliminates the cause of the tendency to corpulence. + +"Corpulency and the Cure," a dainty little book of some 256 pages, is now +in its eighteenth edition. We would cordially recommend such of our +readers who are troubled with what we will call, for the sake of euphony, +"exaggerated _embonpoint_," to procure a copy by sending two penny stamps +to Mr. F. C. Russell, Woburn House, Store Street, Bedford Square, London. +This well-known specialist can claim the unique distinction of having +successfully treated over 10,000 cases of obesity. + + A UNIQUE TREATMENT. + + The "Russell" treatment is a marvellously efficacious and radical + cure which is not only not harmful, but extremely vitalising and + strengthening, promoting appetite and aiding digestion, assimilation + and nutrition. Meanwhile the reduction of adipose matter goes + steadily on until normal weight is reached. + + =No Noxious Drugs.= + =No Stringent Dietary.= + =No Drastic Restrictions.= + + + AN UNFAILING TEST. + + The weighing machine will prove that the reduction of fat commences + within 24 hours, the loss of weight varying from 1/2 to 2lb.; even + more than this in severe cases of obesity. The compound forming the + basis of the treatment is purely vegetable, & wholly free from + objectionable ingredients. + + Whilst permanently reducing the body to normal weight and size, the + "Russell" treatment has a wonderfully strengthening & invigorating + effect upon the system. + +Mr. Russell will be pleased to give to all readers suffering from Obesity +a copy of his book, "Corpulency and the Cure," 256 pages. When writing for +the Book, enclose two penny stamps to cover its postage. The Book will be +forwarded in a sealed plain envelope. + + ADDRESS:-- + Woburn House, 27, Store Street, Bedford Square, London, W.C. + + + + +SMALL GARDENS + + + + +CHAPTER I + +The General Arrangement of the Garden + + _What to go in for, and what to avoid--Brick walls--Trees, their + advantages and disadvantages, etc._ + + +It is imperative that =a small garden=, such as one generally finds +attached to suburban or small houses, should be made the very most of. +Frequently, however, its owners seem to think that to attempt to grow +anything in such a little plot of ground is a veritable waste of time and +money, as nothing ever comes of it. The aim of this book is to show that +even the tiniest piece of land can be made pretty and even profitable, if +due attention be given it. + +=WELL BEGUN IS HALF DONE.= To begin with, it is well to remember that the +tenant of a small garden should not endeavour to represent every feature +he sees in large grounds; the poverty-stricken shrubbery and pond just +about large enough for a nice bath, are too often seen, and only call +forth ridicule. Some landscape gardeners have even objected to the +presence of a lawn, where the space at disposal is very limited indeed, +but to my mind =a little turf is always advisable=, for it not onl +entices people into the fresh air for a game, but forms a good foil for +flowering plants, and above all looks so well during the winter. + +=A long narrow garden= is always easier to deal with than a square plot of +land, the range of vision not being "brought up short," as it were. It is +well to take heed of this fact where there is any choice in the matter. +=Good brick walls= are a great help in gardening, though alas! in these +hurried days they are becoming much rarer, the wooden fence being run up +so quickly, and at far less expense. + +As regards =the walks=, it is better to have one path wide enough for two +people abreast than several unsociably narrow ones. Each path should lead +somewhere, to the summer-house, or a gate, for instance: otherwise it +looks inconsequent. + +Besides the flower-garden proper, =a nursery= for making experiments, +sowing seeds, and striking cuttings, should find a place, if possible; a +rubbish-heap is invaluable, too, where all decayed vegetable refuse, +road-scraping, soapsuds, etc., should be thrown. In autumn, all the leaves +the gardener sweeps up should be placed near by, both heaps being +frequently turned over to allow of the noxious gas escaping, and to assist +decomposition. The =rubbish corner= should be at the furthest extremity of +the garden, though it need not be unsightly if a screen is placed around +it. Privet is certainly the quickest growing shrub for that purpose, but, +as it is so common, other shrubs, such as =pyrus japonica=, =arbutus=, +=barberry=, and =pyracantha=, may be used. + +=THE JOYS OF A GREENHOUSE.= If there is no greenhouse, try to obtain one; +it is such an infinite delight all through the dark months of the year, +and this without any great cost for fuel. A Rippingille oil-stove, with +one four-inch wick, will suffice to keep the frost out of a structure +measuring 16 x 10, if a lean-to (that is, attached to a dwelling-house). +Even this expense may be avoided where it is built against a kitchen wall, +though, if the wall happened to face north, only ferns and just a few +flowers would thrive. But even these would form a great interest, +especially to invalids, who often find their greatest pleasure in +pottering about under their "little bit of glass." + +=A VEXED QUESTION.= The vexed question of =lopping one's neighbours' +trees= is sure to crop up sooner or later. However much detriment the +trees may be doing, by preventing the free access of sun and air, tenants +should know that the law only justifies them in cutting down those +branches which actually overhang their own domains. This being the case, +it is often the best "to grin and bear it," and lop the trees as little as +possible, for we must acknowledge that the fine form of a tree is always +spoilt when interfered with to any great extent. If the border would, in +any case be shady, so much the better; it will only require a little more +attention in the matter of watering, etc. After all, shade from the hot +summer sun is absolutely necessary if we would enjoy a garden, therefore +it is always well to hesitate over an act which takes but a few minutes to +do, but may need years to repair. Where the trees overhang a good south or +west wall the matter is more serious; it is then advisable to cut back as +far as possible, for roses, peach-trees, and, indeed, most =climbers +resent the constant drip= they are obliged to endure in wet weather. A +list of plants which do well under trees in various aspects is given in +another chapter. + +=BREAKING UP.= As the eye wearies of the straight piece of lawn with +gravel path and border surrounding it, where practicable the ground should +be broken up a bit. Some wide =trellis-work=, painted dark-green, with an +arch-way on either side, helps to do this, and lends a pleasant sense of +mystery to what might otherwise be a prosaic garden. It should be covered +with all manner of creepers, such as clematis, jasmine, roses in variety, +and some of the hardy annuals. Very tender plants should not be put on a +trellis, as it does not by any means take the place of a wall, being more +draughty than the open ground, though such things as the _ceanothus_ will +often live through several winters, and bloom beautifully every summer in +such a spot, till an unusually hard frost kills them outright. =Mulching=, +however, of which more anon (see Glossary), materially aids in preserving +them. + +=In gardening it is the little things that tell.= A mere trifle often +makes the difference between failure and success. People will hardly +believe, for instance, how important it is that certain plants should only +receive =soft water=, and continue giving the water laid on by the company +when all the time gallons and gallons of =precious rain= from heaven are +running to waste. It is only a question of a tank to preserve it, which +should be in an unobtrusive situation, though easily get-at-able. Where +alpines are concerned, rainwater should be the only beverage, and this +reminds me that a =rockery= on which to grow these gems of other countries +is not such an impossibility in a town garden as might be thought by their +scarcity. + +=HOW NOT TO DO IT.= The rockery, as seen in most gardens, both public and +private, is too often an example of "how not to do it." A heterogeneous +mass of clinkers, planted here and there with ivy, and exposed to the full +force of sun and wind, is not to be named in the same breath with those at +Kew, for instance. Of course, these are not made with bricks at all, but +of soft grey stone, rather difficult to obtain by amateurs. Nevertheless, +the shape and general characteristics may be copied; indeed, a day every +now and then spent in the Royal Gardens at Kew or in any other well +planned gardens, is a liberal education in such matters, and a great help +in laying out a garden to good effect, though, naturally, everything must +be considerably modified. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +Lawn, Paths, Beds, and Border + + _How to keep a lawn level--Paths, how to lay them--Beds and + bedding--The new style versus the old--Flower-borders and their + backgrounds--Improvement of the soil._ + + +=THE AUTOCRAT OF THE GARDEN.= We have spoken of the general arrangement of +the suburban garden, and must now proceed to particularize. First as to +=the lawn=: It might often be described as a thing invented to keep the +journeyman gardener in constant work, for where that individual only comes +for a day or even half a day each week (on which basis this book is +written) he generally seems to occupy his time in rolling, mowing, and +sweeping the grass. An endeavour should a made to curtail this lengthy +business, if it can be done without hurting his very sensitive feelings. +When a boot-boy is kept, he can be set to roll the grass before and after +it is mown, and also assist in the tidying up, thus giving the man leisure +to attend to other matters. Where tennis or more especially croquet is +played, great care should be taken to keep the turf level; =inequalities= +can always be remedied in the winter or early spring. =Fine soil= should +be scattered over each depression where these are only slight, and a +little seed sown about March; but when the turf is very uneven it is a +better plan to lift it, fill up underneath with soil, and re-lay, rolling +well so that it may settle down properly. To keep a lawn even =constant +rolling= is most necessary. Even when the lawn is smooth, it is as well to +some seed in the spring of every year, for there are sure to be weeds to +eradicate, and this is apt to leave bare patches which mar the beauty of +any lawn. During hot, dry summers, water must be regularly applied or the +grass will wither and perhaps die out altogether. =Grassy slopes= +especially should be looked after, as they are the first to show signs of +distress. Where there is no hose, a "spreader" will be found a most useful +adjunct to a water-can, and is quite inexpensive. The knives of a +mowing-machine should not be set too low in warm weather, as =close +cutting= of grass is often responsible for it turning brown. + +The =paths= of a garden can be composed of several substances, gravel +possibly being the best, as it is so easily renewed and kept in order. In +cottage gardens delightful pebble walks with an edging of tiles can be +sometimes seen, but unless plants having a mossy or cushion-like growth +are allowed to fall over the tiles, this arrangement is rather stiff. When +laying gravel down, see that it is of a ="binding" quality=, and laid +fairly thick, as this method is economical in the long run, because it can +be easily turned. The paths must be kept clear of weeds, and, except in +the wild portion, free also of moss, a difficult thing where the growth of +trees is very rank. Picking up the path constantly with a rake and +=scattering common salt= over it, is one way of keeping moss down. It is +important that the centre of a path be higher than the sides, so that it +should =dry quickly after rain=. + +=BEDS AND BEDDING.= As regards the beds in the garden, these are usually +all on the lawn, though =a long raised bed= with a path on either side +looks extremely well if filled with flowers, and can be easily got at on +dewy mornings without wetting the feet. Fantastic shapes are not +advisable, unless =carpet-bedding=[1] is the style aimed at. Rose-trees +look best in round or oblong beds, and do not lend themselves to filling +up stars, though a crescent-shaped bed suits the low-growing kinds very +well. As a rule only one or two different kinds of flowers should be used +in the same bed, and if a good display of blossom is required these must +be frequently changed. =Cuttings a year old= make the best bedding-plants +in a general way, for, though the quantity of bloom may not be quite so +great the habit is more bushy, the individual flower far finer, and the +period of blossoming greatly prolonged. It has been found that many of the +old-fashioned flowers bloom much better if they also are =divided= and +=new soil added=. This is particularly noticeable in such flowers as +_delphiniums_, _campanulas_, and _japonica_ anemones. Once every two or +three years, however, is often enough for these hardy denizens of our +gardens. + + [1] See Glossary, p. 7. + +=MAKING THE MOST OF THE LAND.= A new style of bedding has cropped up +lately, or rather a lesson that Nature has always been teaching us has at +last been taken to heart, for the idea is really as old as the hills. Two +=plants flowering at different seasons= are placed together where formerly +each would have had a separate piece of ground; thus, a tall, autumn phlox +will be seen rearing its panicles of flowers from a carpet of _aubrietia_, +_alyssum_, or forget-me-not, which all flower in spring. In this way each +foot of ground has something to interest us at all seasons of the year. +Lilies have been planted amongst rhododendrons and azaleas for some time +past, and now the system has been extended. When once we have made up our +minds to have =no bare soil=, various schemes will present themselves to +us. Bulbs can be treated so, to the great improvement of the garden, as +when they grow out of some hardy herbaceous plant, their dying leaves +which present such an untidy appearance are nearly hidden. This double +system of planting is especially necessary in beds which are in full view +of the house, as these must never look empty. + +=WANTED--AN EYE FOR COLOUR.= Borders are not so much trouble in this way, +as, if the wall or fence at the back is well covered with a succession of +flowering shrubs, this makes =a very good back-ground=, and, as every +artist knows, that is half the battle. The colours, however, must be +carefully chosen, so that the plants in front blend with the creepers on +the wall. The inconsistency of people in this matter is very noticeable, +for they will mix shades in their borders which they would not dream of +allowing on their dinner-tables. Who has not had his teeth set on edge by +the sight of a pinkish-mauve everlasting pea in juxtaposition with a +flaming red geranium! it is repeated every year in scores of gardens, to +the great offence of every artistic eye. =Colours that quarrel= so +violently with each other should never be visible from the same point of +view, but kept rigorously apart. + +It is important that =the soil of the border= be of fairly good quality; +if the staple be poor and rocky, plenty of loam must be incorporated with +a small proportion of manure. On the other hand, if it is heavy, cold, and +clayey, sand must be added to make it porous, and thus improve the +drainage. Where the soil is not improved, some trouble should be taken to +choose only those plants which will do really well in the particular soil +the garden possesses. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +On the Duty of Making Experiments + + _Description of a small yet lovely garden--Colour schemes--The spring + dell--A novel way of growing flowers--Variety in flower-gardens._ + + +="Be original!"= is a motto that every amateur gardener should adopt. Far +too few experiments are made by the average owner of a garden; he jogs +along on the same old lines, without a thought of the delightful +opportunities he misses. Each garden, however small, should possess an +=individuality= of its own--some feature that stamps it as out of the +common run. + +I remember seeing a tiny strip in a large town quite fairy-like in its +loveliness, and it has always been a lesson to me on what enthusiasm can +do. The old lady to whom it belonged was not rich, but an ardent lover of +all that is beautiful in nature and art; moreover, she did nearly all the +work herself. Though it was situated amid smoke and dirt, it almost +invariably looked bright and pretty, reminding one somehow, from its +quaintness, of the "days of long ago," for there were no geraniums, no +calceolarias, no lobelias, and not a single Portugal laurel in the whole +place. =Gardeners of the red, white, and blue school=, if any read this +book, will open their eyes at all this, and wonder, maybe, how a proper +garden could manage to exist without these indispensable plants. But then +it was not a proper garden in their sense of the term; paths were winding +instead of straight, flowers grew so well, and bloomed so abundantly that +they even ran into the walks occasionally, and, what was yet more +reprehensible, there was not a shadow of a box edging to =restrain= their +mad flight! Roses and jasmine threw their long flower-laden shoots over +the arches in wild luxuriance, and were a pretty sight, as viewed from the +seat hidden in a bower near by. + +There was a small fernery, too, containing some of the choicest specimens +that can be grown in this country. Altogether it was a most charming +little garden, and gave infinite pleasure to the owner and her friends; +indeed, I for one have often been much less pleased with formal ground of +several acres in extent, though the latter might cost a mint of money to +keep up. + +Experiments in the way of colour-schemes are most interesting, and should +appeal to ladies, who may gain ideas for their costumes from the blending +of shades in their garden, or _vice-versa_. Here a word of warning will +not be out of place; do not rely too much on the =coloured descriptions in +the catalogues=, for, as they are usually drawn up by men, they are +frequently inaccurate; so many men are =partially colour-blind=, and will +describe a crushed strawberry as a carmine! Frequently a flower will +change its colour, however, when in different soil and position, even in +the same district. + +=THE DELL AT CHERTSEY.= A novel way of growing plants is to open up a +spring dell. I wonder if any of my readers have ever seen the one on St. +Ann's Hill, Chertsey? I will try to picture it here. A large basin is +scooped out of the hill, and on the slopes of this basin are grown masses +of rhododendrons and azaleas. Round the rim at the top is some light +rustic fencing, partially covered with climbing plants, and there was also +a narrow bridge of the same material. This dell could not be copied in +very small gardens, because it should be so placed as to come upon one +rather in the way of a surprise, but where there are any corners not quite +in view of all the windows, a little ingenuity will make a lovely thing of +it. The shrubs used need not be identical; less expensive plants may be +grown in just the same way. Those on the slope of the dell will do best; +the plants for the bottom must be carefully chosen, as, of course, they +will get =much moisture and little sun=. Wall-flowers would run to leaf in +that position; and so, I am afraid, would forget-me-not; daisies (double +ones) would revel there, however, particularly if the soil were made +fairly rich; they are extremely reasonable in price, and easily obtained. +Bluebells, wood anemones, _doronicums_, _hepaticas_, narcissus, snowdrops, +all like such a situation, but perhaps the queen of them all is _dicentra +spectabilis_, or "lady's locket," as it is sometimes called; it has pink +drooping racemes and finely-cut foliage, and is generally found under +glass, though it is never seen to such advantage as when well grown out of +doors. This dell is the very place for it, as, when out in the open +ground, rough winds injure its precocious blooms. The =hardy cyclamen= +would do admirably, too, but these must be planted on the slope of the +dell, as they need perfect drainage. In summer it should be a mass of +filmy ferns, foxgloves, and hardy orchids; the best of the orchids is +_cypripedium spectabile_, and it should be planted in peat and leaf-mould, +and in such a way that it is fairly dry in winter and well watered in +summer. Experiments in the way of growing uncommon plants are always +interesting; in the next chapter, therefore, I will mention a few +unreasonably neglected plants, including some novelties which I can +personally testify to as well worth obtaining. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +Some Neglected but Handsome Plants + + _The sweet old columbine--BOCCONIA CORDATA at Hampton Court-- + CAMPANULAS as continuous bloomers--The heavenly larkspurs--Christmas + roses--The tall and brilliant lobelias--The Chinese-lantern + plants--Tufted pansies._ + + +We will begin alphabetically, therefore I will first say a few words +regarding the =pink-flowered anemone japonica=. Though the white variety +(_alba_) is to be seen in every garden, the older kind is not grown half +enough; perhaps this is owing to the peculiar pinkish shade of the petals, +a colour that will harmonize with few others, and might be termed +aesthetic; it should be grown in a large clump by itself or mixed with +white; it flowers at the same time as _A. j. alba_, and equally approves +of a rich and rather heavy soil, and also likes a shady place. Both kinds +spread rapidly. + +=Aquilegias, or columbines, are most elegant plants=, generally left to +the cottage garden, though their delicate beauty fits them for the best +positions; they do well on borders, and generally flower about the end of +May; in a light soil they seed freely, and spring up all round the parent +plant. =Asters=, the botanical name for Michaelmas daisies, are beautiful +flowers for a small garden if the right sort are chosen; those that take +up a great deal of room should be discarded where space is an object, and +such kinds as _A. amellus bessaribicus_, planted instead; this is perhaps +the finest of the genus, and is =first-rate for cutting=. It is only two +feet high, of neat habit, and bears large, bright mauve flowers with +golden centres very freely, from the beginning of August right into +October. =A. ericoides= is another one of neat habit, and is only half a +foot taller than the last; it bears long sprays, covered the whole way up +the stem with tiny white flowers and mossy foliage. Some of the +_novi-belgii_ asters are also very good and easy to grow. One of the most +=effective and beautiful= plants in the summer months is _bocconia +cordata_; it has delicate, heart-shaped foliage of a clear apple-green, +silvered beneath, and creamy flower-spikes which measure from three to +five feet in height; though so tall, it is eminently =fitted for the town +garden=, for it is not a straggling plant and rarely requires staking. At +Hampton Court Palace it is one of the most striking things in the +herbaceous border during July. + +The hardy =campanulas= are good things to have, and in their own shade of +blue are not to be beaten; of the taller varieties, the blue and white +peach-leaved kinds are the handsomest, and come in very usefully for +cutting. _C. carpatica_ and _C. c. alba_ are shorter, being only one foot +high; they =flower continuously=, and look very well in a bed with the +double _potentillas_, which are described further on. + +=Coreopsis grandiflora= is handsomer than the old _lanceolata_, and bears +large bright yellow flowers, which are very handsome when cut and =bloom +for a long period=. + +It is difficult to imagine what we should do without =delphiniums= +(larkspurs) in the hardy flower-border; they are absolutely invaluable, +and seem to have almost =every good quality=, neither are they at all +difficult to grow; some of their blossoms are of an azure blue, a rare +colour in nature; then they can be had of a Cambridge blue, purple, white, +rose, and even red; the last, however, is a fickle grower and not to be +recommended, save for the rockery. Though one may give 21s. and even more +per dozen for them, beautiful kinds can be had for 10s.; these plants run +from two to five feet high in good soil, but need plenty of manure to do +them really well, as they belong to the tribe of "=gross-feeders=." + +The =erigerons= are useful plants to grow, very much like the +large-flowered Michaelmas daisies, except that they come in earlier and +are of a dwarfer habit; they may be had in orange as well as blue shades. + +The =funkias= are grand plants, grown chiefly for their =foliage=, which +is sometimes green margined with white, or green mixed with gold, and in +one kind the leaves are marbled blue and green; they =set off the flowers +near them= to great advantage. In the early spring slugs attack them; +these must be trapped and killed (see Chap. VIII.). + +Why are the old =Christmas roses= seen so little, I wonder? Grown in heavy +soil and cold aspect they do beautifully, and bring us their pure white +flowers =when little else is obtainable outside=. One thing against them +in this hurry-skurry age is the fact that they increase so slowly; this +makes them rather expensive too. Good plants of _helleborus niger maximus_ +may, however, be bought for half-a-crown; this variety has =very handsome +leaves=, and is all the better for a little manure. + +=A flower that everybody admires= is the =heuchera sanguinea=, a rare and +lovely species; it has graceful sprays of coral-red flowers, borne on +stems from one to two feet high, which generally appear in June, and are +first-rate for cutting. =Lobelia fulgens= is a brilliantly beautiful +species, not to be confounded with the dwarf blue kinds; these tall +varieties have quaintly-shaped red flowers, and narrow leaves of the +darkest crimson; the roots are rather tender, and much dislike damp during +the autumn and winter. + +=Lychnis chalcedonica= is one of the unreasonably neglected plants; it has +=bright scarlet flowers=, a good habit, and grows from two to three feet +high; it must have a sunny position and prefers a sandy soil. + +Some of the new hardy =penstemons= are lovely, and =flower during the +whole summer=; they look very well in a round bed by themselves, and do +not require much looking after; they are rather too tender to withstand +our damp winters without protection, therefore the old plants should be +mulched, after having had cuttings taken from them, to be kept secure from +frost in a frame. + +The =winter cherry=, or =Cape gooseberry (physalis alkekengi)= is a most +fascinating plant; =its fruit is the attraction=, and resembles +Chinese-lanterns; they appear early in September, and make quite a good +show in the garden. When bad weather comes, the stalks should be cut, hung +up to dry for about a week, and then mixed in vases with dried grasses and +the effect is very pretty. Care must be taken when asking for this plant +under the English name, as there is a greenhouse plant so termed which is +quite different, and, of course, will not stand frost. A dozen plants cost +about 5s.; do not be persuaded to get the newer sort--_franchetti_--the +berries are larger, but coarse and flabby, and not nearly so decorative. + +=Polemonium richardsoni= is a very pretty plant, its English name being +=Jacob's ladder=. The flowers are borne in clusters, and are pale sky-blue +in colour with a yellow eye: the foliage is fernlike in character and very +abundant. This plant =likes a shady nook=, which must not be under trees, +however, and if well watered after its first bloom is over in June, it +will flower again in autumn. The double =potentillas= are glorious things +for bedding, and are most uncommon looking. Their flowers are =like small +double roses= in shape: generally orange, scarlet, or a mixture of both: +the leaves, greyish-green in colour, resemble those of the strawberry. +Unfortunately, these plants require a good deal of staking, but they are +well worth the trouble. + +The large-leaved =saxifrages=, sometimes called _megaseas_, merit a good +deal more attention than they receive. For one thing they begin flowering +very early, holding up their close pink umbels of flowers so bravely in +cold winds: then their foliage is quite distinct, and turns to such =a +rich red in September= that this fact, added to their easy cultivation, +makes it wonderful that they are not more grown. I remember, on a dreary +day in mid-February, being perfectly charmed by the sight of a large bed +of this _saxifraga ligulata_, completely filling up the front garden of a +workman's cottage in one of the poorest roads of a large town. The flowers +are particularly =clean and fresh-looking=, and having shiny leaves they +of course resist dust and dirt well. + +=Tradescantias= and =trollius= are two good families of plants for growing +on north borders; the first have curious blue or reddish-purple flowers, +rising on stiff stalks clothed with long pointed leaves, and they continue +in =flower from May till September=. The =trollius= has bright orange or +lemon-yellow cup-shaped blossoms and luxuriant foliage. It flowers from +the end of May for some weeks. Both these plants grow about two feet high. + +=Violas= or =tufted pansies= are very pretty, and extremely =suitable for +the ground work of beds=, especially where these are in shade, though they +will not do under trees. Cuttings must constantly be taken, as +one-year-old plants flower more continuously, and have larger blooms and a +more compact habit than older plants, besides which they are apt to die +out altogether, if left to themselves. + +These are but a few of the wealth of good things to be made use of, for, +when once real enthusiasm is awakened, the amateur who wishes to have a +thoroughly interesting garden will only be too eager to avail himself of +all that is best in the horticultural world. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +The Conservatory and Greenhouse + + _Mistakes in staging--Some suitable climbers--Economical + heating--Aspect, shading, etc.--The storing of plants--No waste + space--Frames._ + + +=A well-kept conservatory= adds much to the charm of a drawing-room, but +requires careful management. Potting and the like cannot very well go on +in a place which must always look presentable. A conservatory, of course, +is tiled, and therefore every dead leaf and any soil that may be spilled +show very much; it is therefore advisable to have a greenhouse as well, +or, failing that, some frames. A greenhouse, though it may be only just +large enough to turn round in, is a great help towards a nice garden, and +a boon in winter; it also allows of =a change of plants= for the +dwelling-house and conservatory, greatly to their advantage. =Staging +generally takes up far too much room=; the middle part of a conservatory +should be left free, so that there is space to walk about; stands for +plants are easily arranged, and give a more natural appearance than fixed +staging, which always looks rather stiff. Being a good deal more liable to +visits from guests than an ordinary greenhouse, the conservatory must be +kept scrupulously clean and neat; the floor, walls, and woodwork must be +washed very often, and the glass kept beautifully bright. Cobwebs must +never be allowed to settle anywhere, and all the shelves must be kept free +of dirt and well painted; curtains should be hung near the entrance to the +drawing-room, so that they may be pulled across the opening at any time, +to hide work of this sort. + +=Hanging plants= are great adjuncts where the structure is lofty, and +open-work iron pillars, when draped with some graceful climbing plant, are +a great improvement. Where there is but little fire heat, considerable +care will be needed to choose something which will look well all the year +round. We will suppose that the frost is merely kept out; in the summer, +such a house can be bright with _plumbago_, _pelargoniums_, _salvias_, and +indeed all the regular greenhouse flowering plants, as, except in +hot-houses, no artificial heat is then necessary anywhere. In winter, +there is more difficulty, for all the climbing plants which are in +conspicuous positions must be nearly hardy; of these, the trumpet flower +(_bignonia_), _swainsonia_, passion-flower, _choisya ternata_, myrtle and +camellia, are the best; these are nearly evergreen, and consequently look +ornamental even when out of flower. + +=Plants suitable for hanging baskets= are the trailing _tradescantias_, +the white _campanula_, lobelia, pelargonium, and many ferns. For the pot +plants there are hosts of things; _freesias_, _cyclamen_, +marguerite-carnations, _primulas_, Christmas roses, arums, azaleas, +_kalmias_, _spireas_, chrysanthemums, narcissus, roman hyacinths, and so +on. Many late-flowering hardy plants, will, if potted up, continue in +bloom long after the cold has cut them off outside. + +=Cactus plants=, too, ordinarily grown in a warm green-house, will even +withstand one or two degrees of frost when kept perfectly dry, dust-dry, +in fact. During winter in England =it is the damp that kills=, not the +cold; bearing that in mind, we shall be able to grow many things that +hitherto have puzzled us. All those delicate iris, half-hardy ferns, and +tiresome plants that would put off flowering till too late, why, a cold +conservatory or greenhouse is the very place for them! + +=Green-houses are altogether easier to manage than conservatories=, and +therefore are the best for amateurs. There cuttings may be struck, plants +repotted, fuchsias, geraniums, etc., stored, and tender annuals reared. A +=lean-to greenhouse= should face south preferably, and the door should be +placed at the warm end, that is, the west, so that when opened no biting +wind rushes in. When the summer comes, a temporary shading will be +necessary; twopennyworth of whitening and a little water mixed into a +paste will do this. About the middle of September it should be washed off, +if the rain has not already done so; for if it remains on too long the +plants will grow pale and lanky. + +=ARTIFICIAL HEAT.= The Rippingille stove before referred to must be placed +at the coldest end, and only sufficient warmth should emanate from it just +to keep out the frost, unless it is intended to use it all day. It is well +to remember that =the colder the atmosphere outside, the cooler in +proportion must the interior be=. Even a hot-house is allowed by a good +gardener to go down to 60 deg. or even 55 deg. on a bitterly cold night, as a +great amount of fire-heat at such times is inimical to plant life, though +it will stand a tremendous amount of sun-power. Several mats or lengths of +woollen material, canvas, etc., stretched along outside will save expense, +and be a more natural way of preserving the plants. + +=One great advantage that a greenhouse has= over a conservatory is this: +that any climbers can be planted out, whereas tubs have to be used where +the floor is tiled. =Cucumbers and tomatoes= do very well in a small +house, and an abundance of these is sure to please the housekeeper. Seeds +of the cucumber should be sown about the first week in March on a hot-bed; +if in small pots all the better, as their roots suffer less when +transferred to where they are to fruit. Do not let the shoots become +crowded, or insects and mildew will attack them. In the summer, "damp +down" pretty frequently and give plenty of air, avoiding anything like a +draught, however. "=Telegraph=," though not new, is a reliable cucumber of +good flavour and a first-rate cropper. =Tomato seed= should be sown about +the same time and the plants treated similarly, giving plenty of water but +no stimulant in the way of guano till they have set their fruit, which can +be assisted by passing a camel's hair brush over the flowers, and thus +fertilising them. Of course, out of doors the bees do this; their +"busyness" materially aiding the gardener. + +As to =storing plants=, a box of sand placed in a dry corner where no drip +can reach it, is best for this, burying the roots of dahlias, etc., fairly +deep in it, and withholding water till the spring, when they may be taken +out, each root examined, decayed parts removed, and every healthy plant +repotted. The pots should be placed under the shelves till they shoot +forth, when they can be gradually brought forward to the light. This +reminds me that =the dark parts of a greenhouse= should never be wasted, +as, besides their use in bringing up bulbs, ferns can be grown for +cutting, and such things as rhubarb, may be readily forced there. =Frames= +are very useful and fairly cheap, though it is best to get them set with +21-oz. glass, or they will not last long. Seedlings may be brought up in +them with greater success than if in a greenhouse, and a supply of violets +may be kept up in them during the coldest weather. The mats they are +covered with during the night must never be removed till the frost is well +off the grass, say about 11 a.m., as a sudden thaw makes terrible havoc. + +=The great point to remember= when about to indulge in a greenhouse is +this: unless sufficient time and trouble can be given to make it worth +while, it is better to spend the money on the outdoor department, which to +a certain extent takes care of itself. Where there is leisure to attend to +a greenhouse, however, few things will give more return for the care spent +on it. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +The Tool Shed and Summer-House + + _Spades and the Bishop--Weeding without back-ache--The indispensable + thermometer--Well-made tools a necessity--Summer-houses and their + adornment._ + + +Though it is true enough that the best workmen need little mechanical aid, +yet =a well-stocked tool-shed= is not to be despised. Sometimes it may +only be a portion of a bicycle-shed which can be set apart for our +implements, or the greenhouse may have to find room for a good many of +them, but certain it is that a few nicely-finished tools are an absolute +necessity to the would-be gardener. Of course a good many of them can be +hired; it is not everyone, for instance, who possesses a =lawn-mower=, but +if the owner of a garden is ambitious enough to wish to do without a +gardener altogether, a lawn-mower will be one of the first things he will +wish to possess himself of. In that case he cannot do better than invest +is one of Ransome's or Green's machines. Their work is always of a high +standard and the firms are constantly making improvements in them. The +newest ones are almost perfection, but it is better to get a second-hand +one of either of these firms than a new one of an inferior make. A +=roller= is useful too, but, as these large implements run into a good +deal of money, it may be as well to state that, on payment of 2d. or so, +any of them may be borrowed for an hour or two. Ladders can be had in this +way; also shears, fret-saws--anything that is only wanted occasionally. + +A =spade= is a daily necessity, however. Has not one of our most learned +divines exalted the art of digging by his commendation thereof, and who +shall say him nay? It is expedient to wear =thick boots=, however, during +this operation, not only on account of the earth's moisture, but also +because otherwise it is ruinous to our soles. To preserve the latter, a +spade with a sharp edge should never be chosen, but one which has a flat +piece of iron welded on to the body of it. Digging is good because it +breaks up the earth, and exposes it to the sun and also to the frost, +which sweetens and purifies it; care must be taken however, in doing it, +as so many things die down in the winter and are not easily seen. The +ordinary hired gardener is very clever at =burying things so deep that +they never come up again=! + +Most people abhor =weeding=, yet if done with a Dutch hoe it is rather +=pleasant work=, as no stooping is required. After a few showers of rain +the hoe runs along very easily, and the good it does is so patent that I +always think it very satisfactory labour indeed. These hoes cost about 1s. +6d. each. + +=Raking= is easy work, and very useful for smoothing beds or covering +seeds over with soil. English made, with about eight or ten teeth, their +cost is from two to three shillings. One of the most necessary implements +is a =trowel=, in particular for a lady, as its use does not need so much +muscle as a spade; their price is from 1s. 6d. to 2s. 6d. each. + +Where there are many climbers =a hammer= is wanted, not a toy one of +German make; these are sometimes chosen by amateurs under the mistaken +idea that the lighter the hammer the lighter the work. One of English +make, strong and durable, is the kind of thing required, and costs about +2s. or 2s. 6d. =Wall-nails=, one inch long (the most useful size), are 2d. +a pound, and may be had at any ironmongers. The =shreds of cloth= may be +bought too, but anyone who deals at a tailor's can procure a mixed bundle +of cloth pieces for nothing, when there is the light labour of cutting +them into shreds, work of a few minutes only. + +In choosing =watering-cans=, see that they are thoroughly good tin, as a +strong can will last for years; moreover, when it begins to leak it will +bear mending; they cost from 3s. upwards, the roses should be made to take +off as a rule, and a special place assigned to them on the shelf of the +tool-shed, as they readily get lost. =Syringes=, much used for washing off +insects, are rather expensive, consequently are not to be found in many +small gardens; a more fortunate friend will sometimes lend one, as there +is a good deal of freemasonry amongst people who indulge in the hobby of +gardening. + +A thing everyone must have is =a thermometer=, in greenhouses they are +indispensable; the minimum kind are the most useful, telling one as they +do exactly the degree of frost experienced during the preceding night. +They may be bought at a chemist's for 1s. each, and must be re-set every +day; the aforesaid chemist will show any purchaser the way to do this--it +is quite simple. + +=Raffia=, or =bass=, for tying flower-sticks, and =labels= are minor +necessities which cost little, though sticks may run into a good deal if +bought prepared for staking. Personally, I dislike both the coloured kinds +(never Nature's green) and the white. Both show far more than the +=unobtrusive sticks= obtained by cutting down the stalks of Michaelmas +daisies, for instance. =Galvanised iron stakes last practically for ever=, +and if they are of the twisted kind, no tying is required, greatly +lessening labour. It is a curious fact that though =arches made of iron +set up electrical disturbance= and injure the climbers, these stakes seem +to have no bad effect whatever. At the end of the autumn they should be +collected, and stored in a safe place till summer comes round again. Thin +ones suitable for carnations, etc., may be procured from A. Porter, +Storehouse, Maidstone, for 1s. a dozen, carriage paid. The thicker ones +can be made to order at small cost at any ironmonger's. + +A handy man can often make =frames= himself, especially if they are not +required to be portable, and really these home-made ones answer almost as +well as those that are bought. Good frames can sometimes be had at sales +for an old song, and only require a coat of paint to make them as good as +new. + +Here I will end my list, only reiterating that, however few tools you may +have, it is foolish to get any but the best. + +A =summer-house= need not necessarily be bought ready-made. I have seen +many a pretty bower put together in the spare hours of the carpenter of +the family. There is one advantage in these =home-made summer-houses=, +that they are generally more roomy than those which are bought, and can be +made to suit individual requirements. + +=HOW TO COVER A SUMMER-HOUSE.= Of course, it is more necessary to cover +these amateur and therefore somewhat clumsy structures with creepers, but +that is not difficult. Even the first summer they can be made to look +quite presentable by planting the =Japanese hop=. The leaves are +variegated, and in shape like the Virginia creeper. Messrs. Barr, of Long +Ditton, Surrey, told me it grew 25 feet in one season. It can be had from +them in pots, about the first week in May, for 3s. 6d. a dozen. Then there +are the =nasturtiums=, always so effective when =trained up lengths of +string=, with the dark back-ground of the summer-house to show up their +beautiful flowers. If the soil in which they grow is poor and gravelly, +the blossoms will be more numerous. The =canary creeper= is another plant, +which is so =airy and graceful= that one never seems to tire of it. Get +the seeds up in good time, so that when planted out they are of a fair +height, else so much of the summer is lost. + +There are so many =uncommon climbing plants= which should be tried, +notably _eccremocarpus scaber_, _cobea scandens_, and _mina lobata_. The +last two are annual, and the first can be grown as such, though in mild +winters and in sunny positions it is a perennial. It =flowers whenever the +weather will let it=, and its blossoms are orange-yellow in colour, very +curious and invariably noticed by visitors. Reliable seeds of all three +can be had from Messrs. Barr, at 6d. a packet. The _cobea_ bears pale +purple bell-shaped flowers, and is a quick grower. _Mina lobata_ is +generally admired, and though of a different family bears a slight +resemblance to an _eccremocarpus_, both in the shape of its flowers and in +the way they are arranged on the stem. It is only half hardy. Clematis +_jackmanni_ and _montana_ are good for this position too. _Jackmanni_ is +the well-known velvety purple kind, and must be cut down to the ground +every autumn, and well mulched; that is because it flowers on the new +growth of each year. _Montana_, however, flowers on the wood of the +previous year, and therefore must be cut back about the end of June, if at +all, as May is the month it blooms. + +The Dutchman's pipe, or _aristolochia sipho_, is not to be altogether +recommended, as =its huge leaves always seem to make small gardens appear +smaller still=, which is not desirable; otherwise, it is a splendid plant +for covering summer-houses, as it is a rapid climber. It is wise to plant +some of the =decorative ivies= as well, so that, if the flowering plants +fail, it will not be of so much consequence. The =varieties with pointed +leaves= are exceedingly elegant, and are much more suitable than the +common sort for decorating churches and dwelling-house, and cost no more +to buy. + +=FRAGRANT ODOURS.= At =the base of the summer-house= there should be +quantities of sweet-scented plants, as this will make the time spent there +all the pleasanter. There are lavender, rosemary, thyme, bay, sweet peas, +stocks, and mignonette, besides the oak-leaved geranium, tobacco plant, +marvel of Peru, and, of course, roses, though the latter do not give off +scent quite so much as the other plants mentioned. + +The =position of the summer-house= is important. I have seen some divided, +but where there is no partition it should generally face west. It is +delightful on a fine evening to sit and watch the clouds change from glory +to glory, as the sun gradually sinks to its rest, and the stars gleam out +in the darkening sky. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +Roses for Amateurs + + _Teas--Hybrid perpetuals--Some good climbing varieties--Treatment and + soil--Rose hedges--Pillar roses._ + + +The reason for the heading given to this chapter is that growing roses for +show will not be mentioned, as it is quite a separate branch of the art +and would require a book to itself to do it full justice. =Blooms of a +fair size, but in abundance= during five months of the year, that is what +most amateurs need, for, after all, the amount of disbudding that has to +be done when growing roses for show quite goes to one's heart! We want +fine, well-coloured, healthy flowers, and to attain that end a =good soil +is absolutely necessary=. This is especially the case with =Hybrid +Perpetuals=, but Teas will often do in a light soil, if manure is given +them, and plenty of water in the dry season. The H.P.'s, as gardeners call +them, =must have loam and clay= to do them properly; where the soil is not +improved by adding these ingredients, it is advisable to rely chiefly on +Tea Roses. + +=THE ADVANTAGES OF TEAS.= For many reasons Tea Roses are the best for +small gardens, as they like the shelter found there. They =flower more +continuously= and in much greater profusion, are not so troubled with +green fly, and are far =more decorative= in habit of growth and colour of +leafage than most of the other species. In their particular shades of +colour they cannot be equalled, though for cherry reds and dark maroons we +have to look to the Hybrid Perpetual, at least, if we want flowers of fine +form, and also for that =lovely fresh pink= of the Captain Christy type +(though this is now termed a Hybrid Tea by rosarians). The name Perpetual +is apt to give =a false idea= to those who are not experienced. Most of +these roses are not at all continuous, many only lasting six weeks or so +in bloom, and some even less, if the season is hot; that is one great +reason why they are being superseded by Teas, at least in the suburbs of +London and the South of England. In the Midlands and North the =hardiness +of the H.P.'s= is greatly in their favour. + +=Teas will stand the closeness= of a garden surrounded by houses and trees +much better than the Perpetuals, which are very apt to become mildewed in +such positions. Of course, many remedies are given for this, but often +they are =worse than the disease=; flowers of sulphur, for instance, to +take the best-known remedy, disfigures the whole plant terribly. + +=Teas= are much the =best for planting in beds= which are very +conspicuous, for, as I said previously, they are always ornamental. Where +standards are placed down each side of the lawn, it is rather a good plan +to place all the =Hybrid Perpetuals on one side and the Teas on the +other=, giving the greater amount of sun to the latter. + +=GOOD CLIMBERS FOR WARM WALLS.= When covering a very hot wall, too, it is +best, in the South of England, to stick to the tender roses, as the others +become almost burnt up. I will name here five of the =best climbing Tea +roses= for a south or west wall. William Allan Richardson the beautiful +orange variety so much admired; Bouquet d'or, a daughter of Gloire de +Dijon, but prettier in the bud than the old variety; Madame Berard, fawny +yellow, very floriferous; L'Ideal, and Gustave Regis. =L'Ideal is a most +beautiful rose=, its colouring almost defying description--a peculiar +yellow, streaked with red and gold, like a Turner sunset. Gustave Regis, +though often classed as a bush rose, easily covers a low wall, and is one +of the best kinds there are, as it is covered with bloom the whole of the +season. The buds make =lovely button-holes=, and are creamy yellow, long, +and pointed. They are just like water-lilies when fully open, and on a +warm sunny day exhale a perfectly delicious fragrance, unlike any other +rose with which I am acquainted. + +Another good climbing =tea-rose= is Duchesse d'Auerstadt. Though +introduced as long ago as 1887, this variety is =not often heard of=, +perhaps on account of its shy blooming qualities. This however need deter +no one from growing it, as its =lovely foliage= makes it quite a picture +at all times: bronze, crimson, rich metallic green, its shoots and leaves +are a pleasure to look at. Its flowers, too, when they come how splendid +they are! =great golden goblets= full to overflowing with the firm, rich +petals and with a scent to match; they are indeed worth waiting for! +Anxiously is each bud watched, for they take so long to come to perfection +that the anxiety is not ill-founded. I have known a bud take four weeks to +come out, but then it had to stand a lot of bad weather, and came through +it safely after all. All these rose-trees may be had from Benjamin R. Cant +& Sons, Colchester, at 1s. 6d. each. This firm always sends out good +plants, with plenty of vitality in them, and as these old-established +rose-nurseries are by no means in a sheltered spot, you may be sure of +each tree being hardily grown and thoroughly ripened, great points in +their future well-being. + +=CLIMBERS FOR COOL WALLS.= East, or better still E.S.E., is a good aspect +for Hybrid Perpetual and Bourbon roses on walls. I have frequently noticed +that they have a great dislike to the very hottest of the sun's rays, and +that is the reason I have advised those places to be reserved for Teas. +Some good climbing varieties for cool aspects are:--Mrs. John Laing, a +satiny pink of lovely form and sweet scent. Jules Margottin, cherry-red, +globular in shape, sweet-scented and very floriferous. Prince Camille de +Rohan, =one= of =the best dark roses= to be had, as they are generally so +difficult to grow--it is blackish-maroon in colour, and flowers +abundantly. Boule-de-neige, a Bourbon, with white flowers in great +abundance. Madame Isaac Pereire another Bourbon; it is a quick grower and +=most abundant flowerer=, the flowers are bright rose crimson. +Souvenir-de-la-Malmaison, one of the best Bourbons we have; does +particularly well on cold walls, even on those facing north. Its flowers +are very large, somewhat flat in form, and blush-white; it =blooms +abundantly in autumn=, and is rarely subject to blight. + +=CLIMBERS REQUIRE VERY LITTLE PRUNING.= It is a case chiefly of cutting +out all dead wood, and snipping the decayed ends of those that are left. +=When planting rose-trees= of any description, choose mild and if possible +calm weather, for it is better to keep the trees out of the ground a few +days rather than plant them in frosty weather. =The soil should be +friable=, so that it crumbles fairly well, and when the plant is in +position it is advisable =to cover the roots with potting-soil= for two or +three inches. Spread the roots out like a fan, and be sure not to plant +the tree too deep. =Look carefully for the mark= showing the union =of +graft and stock=, and be careful not to cover this with more than two +inches of soil. Tread down the soil well to make it firm, and thus induce +the rose-trees to make fresh roots. In =planting out climbers=, carefully +tack all loose shoots to the wall or fence behind it, else the wind may do +much harm. When all is finished give a good mulching of strawy manure, +which should be dug in when March comes; and if there is a likelihood of +frost, protect the branches with bracken or any light covering. + +=BUSH ROSES OF THE H.P. TYPE.= I will now give a few of the best Hybrid +Perpetuals of the bush type; many of the varieties I shall name, however, +=make very good standards= though they are more expensive. The "dwarfs," +as rosarians call them, only cost from 9d. to 1s. each at Messrs. Cant's, +except in the case of =novelties=; and where these are concerned, it is +well to wait a year or two, as they rapidly go down to the normal price. +Duke of Teck, bright carmine scarlet, of good form, and occasionally +blooms in the autumn. Dupuy Jamain, =one of the best H.P.'s ever +introduced=, the flowers are almost cherry-red in colour, sweet-scented, +and come out in succession =the whole of the summer=: it is a quick +grower, and does well in a somewhat shady position. Heinrich Schultheis +flowers of a true rose-pink touched with silver, very prettily shaped and +exceedingly fragrant. Unfortunately, this variety is =subject to attacks +of mildew=, though this does not seem to affect the beauty of the flowers +but spoils the leaves. + +Baroness Rothschild, a faultless rose as regards form and colour, which is +a beautiful pale pink, but utterly =devoid of scent=, a serious fault in +my opinion. Comtesse de Bearn, large, dark, and very floriferous. Madame +Gabriel Luizet, light silvery pink, quick growing, and free blooming. +Ulrich Brunner, always given an excellent character in the catalogues, and +indeed it is a good rose, cherry-red in colour, sweet-scented, and of fine +form: it =rarely ails=, mildew and rust passing it by altogether. It is +exceedingly vigorous, and makes therefore a good pillar-rose. Pride of +Waltham, a =rose little heard-of= yet most lovely; its blossoms are of the +brightest pink, sweetly scented, and beautifully cupped. Charles Lefevre, +beautiful crimson with dark shading; also very good at Kew (and +continuous). Abel Carriere, another dark maroon of fine form, and Queen of +the bedders, producing carmine flowers so freely that it must be +disbudded; it is subject to mildew. + +So many roses formerly classed as Hybrid Perpetuals are now called Hybrid +Teas. The dear old La France is one that has undergone this change; it is +=a rose no-one should be without=, and should be grown both as a standard +and a bush; its silvery pink flowers have a most exquisite scent and +perfect shape (that is, when nearly wide open; it is not a good +button-hole variety). Another Hybrid Tea rose that has come to the fore +lately is Bardou Job, a =splendid bedding variety=, with flaming roses +almost single in form, but produced in prodigal profusion; it pays for +feeding. Queen Mab is a somewhat similar rose but has apricot flowers, +tinted pink and orange, borne in the same generous manner. It is a china +rose; neither of these kinds attain a great height, nevertheless beds +entirely composed of them are exceedingly effective and may be seen some +distance off; they require very little pruning. + +=PILLAR ROSES.= Having mentioned pillar-roses, I will add a few more names +especially calculated to do well in such positions; perhaps =one of the +best= is Paul's Carmine Pillar, with its sheets; of lovely flowers +covering the stems the whole way up, with plenty of healthy foliage to set +them off. When better known, I should imagine it would be a rival even to +Turner's Crimson Rambler, magnificent as that is when grown to perfection. +At Kew recently a bed of the Carmine Pillar was quite =one of the sights +of the garden=. A close investigation of the bed in which they were +planted revealed the fact that every alternate rose-tree was a Gloire de +Dijon, but each one was a sorry failure, and instead of scaling the +heights, crouched low at the foot of its iron stake, as though unwilling +to compete with the other blushing occupants. The "glories" were not very +youthful either, that one could see by their thick hard stems; plenty of +time had evidently been given them to do the work, but for some unknown +reason they had shirked it. I have known several cases of this sort with +the much-loved "glory de John," as the gardeners broadly term it. Madame +Plantier is =a good white pillar-rose=, doing well in any situation, and +Cheshunt Hybrid is also most accommodating, and blooms well even in poor +soil, though it well repays good cultivation. Its flowers, cherry-carmine +in colour, are large and full, and the petals are prettily veined and +curl over at the edges. The foliage is rich, and the tree =never seems +attacked by any disease=; it is a Hybrid Tea. Aimee Vibert, a noisette, is +very good as a pillar-rose and extremely hardy: it also does well on +arches; the flowers are small and white, with pink tips to the petals; it +is very free, and flowers continuously. + +=ROSE HEDGES.= Hedges of roses are quite as effective as pillars, and make +a very pretty screen for two-thirds of the year. The =ever-green roses are +best= for this purpose, and of these Flora is by far-and-away the nicest +rose. It has sweet flowers, small, full, and of the loveliest pink; they +are borne in clusters, each one looking just ready for a fairy-wedding +bouquet. They have a delightful scent, too, their =only fault being their +short duration=; in one summer they will grow from five to ten feet, and +are so free-flowering as almost to hide the leaves. Dundee Rambler, Ruga, +Mirianthes, and Leopoldine d'Orleans are all equally suitable for hedges. + +=DWARF TEAS.= I will now name a list of the best dwarf Tea-roses; to begin +with, Alba Rosea is a dear old rose-tree, moderate in growth, bearing +numbers of flesh-white blossoms, good in form though small in size. These +have a faint, sweet scent, and are very pretty for cutting. One day last +August, I cut a whole branch off with about six open flowers upon it, and +put it in a tall vase just as it was; they arranged themselves, and were +much admired. The tree is decidedly dwarf and moderate in growth, and the +leaves are very dark green, thus making a beautiful foil to the roses. +Catherine Mermet is somewhat of the same type, but the flowers are larger +and more deeply flushed with pink; it is =a good green-house rose=. Madame +de Watteville resembles a tulip, having thick firm petals of a +creamy-white colour, distinctly edged with pink. It is a strong grower and +free in flowering. Madame Hoste is a pretty lemon-yellow colour, one of +the easiest to grow in this particular shade; the flowers are of good +form, and if well manured are large and full; it has a sweet scent. Madame +Lambard is =a rose no one can do without=, it is so free-blooming and +continuous; the colour is not constant, sometimes being mostly pink, at +others almost a fawn, but as a rule it is a blend of those two shades. + +Marie van Houtte is another =indispensable variety=; the roses are lovely +in form, of a pale lemon-yellow colour, each petal being flushed with pink +at the edges, and the whole having a soft bloom, as it were, over it. This +carmine-marking, however, is not constant; weather and position seem to +have a good deal to do with it. Meteor is one of the darker Teas, being +carmine-crimson shaded with blackish-maroon; the roses are not full though +of good shape, consequently they =look best in bud=. This tree wants +feeding to do well, and is not a vigorous grower. Grace Darling is =a gem= +which everyone should have; the blossoms are large, full, perfect in shape +and exquisite in colour, which is generally a peachy-pink, the reverse of +the petals being a rich cream, and, as these curl over in a charming +manner, the effect is unique and extremely beautiful. The foliage is +abundant, of a ruddy tint, and keeps free from blight; indeed, =this +entirely fascinating rose= has only one fault, it is altogether too +unassuming. + +A bright, pink rose of fine form is the Duchess of Albany; it is often +called =a deep coloured La France=, as it is a "sport" from that famous +rose. The Marquis of Salisbury is another dark tea-rose; it is small but +well-shaped though thin, and the blooms are abundant; it is strictly +moderate in growth, being somewhat like the Chinas in habit. A fine rose +=in a warm summer= is Kaiserin Friedrich, as it has large, very full, +flowers, which take a good deal of building up; it appears to dislike cold +and rainy weather. + +=Sunrise is a new kind= that is making a considerable stir in the +rose-world; its flowers vary from reddish-carmine to pale fawn, and the +tree has glorious foliage. + +=THE TIME TO PLANT.= October and November are the best months to plant +rose-trees, except in very cold parts; February is then a safer time, +especially for the tender sorts. =Their first season they require a great +deal of looking after=; their roots have not got a proper foot-hold in the +earth, and this means constant watering in dry weather. At blooming-time, +an occasional application of guano does a great deal of good, making both +flowers and leaves richer in colour. =Dead blooms, too, must be sedulously +cut off=, as, if left on, the tree is weakened. + +=PRUNING.= Do a little pruning in October, though March and April are the +chief months. In the autumn, however, the shoots of rose-trees should be +thinned out, the branches left can then be shortened a fourth of their +length with advantage, as the winter's howling winds are less likely to +harm them. Standards especially require this, as when "carrying much sail" +they are very liable to be up-rooted. + +When the spring comes, look the trees carefully over before commencing +operations, remembering that =the sturdier a tree is the less it needs +pruning=. The knife must go the deepest in the case of the poor, weak +ones. Always prune down to an "eye," that is an incipient leaf-bud; if +this is not done the wood rots. + +Evergreen roses need scarcely be touched, save to cut out dead branches +and snip off decayed ends. + +For Teas and Noisettes also, little actual pruning is necessary. H.P.'s +require the most. As a general rule for roses, if you want quality, not +quantity, prune: hard, but to enable you to "cut and come again," only +prune moderately. + +=Dis-budding= is a certain method of improving the blooms if it is done +=in time=. It is little use to do it when the buds once begin to show +colour; start picking off the superfluous ones when they are quite small, +and the difference in size and shape is often amazing. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +Enemies of the Garden + + _Slugs, and how to trap them--Blight or green fly--Earwigs-- + Wireworm--Snails--Mice--Friends mistakenly called foes._ + + +=The best garden as a rule has the fewest insects=, indeed, no foe is +allowed to lodge for any length of time without means being taken for its +extermination. Some enemies are more easily got rid of than others; for +instance, green fly, or _aphis_ (to give it the scientific name), rarely +attacks healthy plants to any extent; it goes for the sick ones, therefore +=good cultivation will speedily reduce their numbers=. When any is seen, a +strong syringing of =soapy water= will generally dislodge them, or, if +this is impracticable, a dusting of =tobacco-powder= is a very good +substitute. Tait and Buchanan's Anti-blight, to be had of most seedsmen, +is a reliable powder; it is also efficacious in preventing mildew in +potatoes, chrysanthemums, etc. + +In some gardens, especially those inclined to be damp, =slugs are very +troublesome=; their depredations are usually carried on by night, so that +it is rather difficult to trap them; many things are sold for this +purpose, but =hand-picking= is the surest method. In the evening, sink a +saucer a little way in the border, and fill this with moist bran; =it is +irresistible to the slugs=, and when twilight comes on they will steal out +from their hiding-places and make a supper off it. Then comes man's +opportunity. Armed with a pointed stick and a pail of salt and water, they +must be picked off and popped into the =receptacle=, there =to meet a +painless death=; one can squash them under foot, but where they are +plentiful this is rather a messy proceeding. Snails may be trapped in +exactly the same way; =salt or sand= should be placed in a ring round any +plant they are specially fond of, or else in a single night they will +graze off the whole of the juicy tops. Young growths are their greatest +delicacy, hence they are most troublesome in the spring. + +=Wireworm= is another tiresome enemy well known to carnation growers, and +more difficult to get rid of than the slug, owing to its hard and horny +covering which resists crushing; salt again, however, is =a splendid +cure=. It should be well mixed with the soil though not brought too close +to the plants. =Earwigs= are horrid insects to get into a garden; they +often come in with a load of manure, simply swarms of them imbedding +themselves in such places. Dahlias are the plants they like best, and, if +not kept down with a watchful eye, they will completely spoil both flowers +and leaves. Hollow tubes, such as short straws, put round will collect +many, or =the old plan= of filling an inverted flower-pot with moss is +also useful, though somewhat disfiguring, if perched on the tops of the +stakes supporting the dahlias. + +=Mice= are dreadfully destructive, too, especially in the country, and +being so quick in their movements they are troublesome to catch. Traps +must be baited with the daintiest morsels, to make them turn away from the +succulent tops of the new vegetation. Owls and other large birds are most +effectual in doing away with these troublesome little animals, a fact +which should be taken into account. =Many people from ignorance= destroy +birds or insects which may be urgently required to keep down annoying +pests--take, for instance, =ladybirds=--the pretty creatures are +=invaluable= where there is much green fly, yet how often are they doomed +to death by some well-meaning gardener, and it is the same with birds. =A +robin or sparrow will eat hundreds of aphides in one day=, so that, +unless there are many fruit-trees in the garden, it is most unwise to +shoot the dear little songsters; and even in the latter case, if +protection can be afforded, by all means save the birds! A while ago some +farmers had been so enraged by the devastation made by the sparrows and +starlings that they determined to kill all the old birds. The consequence +was that they were so over-run the next season by insects of every +description, that they had to import birds at great trouble, to take the +place of those they had killed. Foes are often mistaken for friends, but +occasionally the reverse is the case! + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +The Rockery + + _A few hints on its construction--Aspect and soil--A list of + Alpines--Other suitable plants._ + + +A well-constructed rockery filled with a good selection of Alpine plants +is a =never-failing delight= to anyone fond of a garden. Yet how rare a +thing it is! most of the erections one sees are mere apologies for the +real thing. The truth is not one gardener in a hundred knows how to make a +rockery, though he does not like to say so! =An artistic mind is needed= +to construct one that will be pleasing to the eye, besides a knowledge of +draining, water-supply, and so forth. An educated person is not actually +necessary, but one with common sense, who would not dream of making it +merely another back-ground for gorgeous bedding-plants which are all very +well in their right place, but absolutely =unsuited to a rockery=. + +=As regards aspect=, one that is built on each side of a narrow path +running north and south, does very well, but as this may be impossible in +a small garden, =a corner rockery= built high in the form of a triangle +and facing south-east, can be made extremely pretty, as I know from +experience. Where the rockery is in the shade, no overhanging trees must +be near, if choice Alpines are expected to live there. + +=The material= may be either slabs of grey stone as at Kew, or the more +easily obtained "clinkers." =Clinkers= are really bricks spoiled in the +baking, having all sorts of excrescences on them which unfit them for +ordinary building purposes; they should always be ordered from a strictly +local contractor, as carriage adds considerably to the cost. + +=The soil= should be a mixture of peat, sand, and loam; no manure should +be incorporated, the ="pockets"= for special favourites and plants that +have individual wants can be filled in at the time of planting. =One +advantage= pertaining to a rockery is that many plants which quite refuse +to thrive in a border will grow and flourish there, and the attention they +need is less troublesome to give; in fact, it is =a delightful form of +gardening=, especially for a lady, as there is no fear of the feet getting +dirty or wet, and a trowel, not a spade, is the chief implement used. A +small piece of turf, just a few feet wide, at the bottom of the corner +style of rockery, is =a great set-off=, and a vast improvement on a gravel +path. + +=SUITABLE PLANTS FOR A ROCKERY.= The following are some of the best +flowers for a rockery. The _aubrietias_ are very pretty little plants, +having creeping rosettes of greyish-green leaves, and a perfect sheet of +mauve or lilac bloom about April. The effect is greatly enhanced when +=planted so as to fall over a stone= or brick; indeed, it is for those +things which are so easily lost sight of in a border that a rockery comes +in; they can be closely inspected there without much stooping. + +The _arabis_ is a pretty plant, somewhat like the _aubrietia_ in habit and +time of flowering; hence, where only a small selection can be made, it +might be left out, as it is =a trifle coarse=. Such a term could never be +applied to the _androsaces_, which may be numbered among =the= _elite_ =of +rock plants=; they are evergreens, and do not exceed six inches in height; +they bear tiny but very bright flowers, varying from rose in some species +to lavender in others. + +=APENNINE GEMS.= Some of the alpine anemones are lovely, notably _A. +appennina_, which has sky-blue flowers that open out flat on very short +stalks, surrounded by pale green denticulated foliage. _A. blanda_ is much +the same, save that it flowers a month or so earlier; they are +spring-blooming plants, and like moisture and shade, and will not do at +all if subjected to much hot sun. These and many similar plants can often +be planted on a =rockery facing south-east= (which aspect suits so many +sun-loving plants), by arranging bricks, stones, or small shrubs, so as to +shelter them from its hottest rays. _Aquilegias_, mentioned in the list of +border plants, look quite as well on a rockery, if moisture can be given +them, as their flowers are so delicate, and the leaves so fragile and +prettily coloured, especially in the early spring. The blue and white _A. +caerulea_, from the Rocky Mountains, is =a gem=, and the scarlet kinds are +very effective. + +=For forming close green carpets=, _arenaria balearica_ is most useful; it +creeps over rocks and stones, covering them completely with its moss-like +growth, and hiding any hard, unlovely surfaces. The _campanula_ family is +=a host in itself=, many of the smaller varieties looking better on a +rockery than anywhere else. Some of these tiny bell-flowers have, however, +the very longest of names! _C. portenschlagiana_, for instance, is only +four inches high, and =a charming little plant= it is, and flowers for +months, beginning about July. The blossoms are purple-blue in colour, and +continue right into November, unless very hard frosts come to stop it. _C. +cespetosa_ is another variety well suited to rock-work, as it is even +smaller than the last. + +=The alpine wall-flower=, _cheiranthus alpinus_, is a very choice little +plant; it has creamy-yellow flowers, borne on stalks a few inches high, +and, though each individual plant is biennial, they seed so freely that +they are practically perennial. A light, dry soil and a sunny situation +suits them; they will even grow on old walls, and very picturesque they +look perched up on some mossy old ruin. + +=An attractive rock plant=, though rarely seen, is _chrysogonum +virginianum_; its flowers are creamy-yellow, and grow in a very quaint +manner; this plant =blooms the whole season through=. Plants of this +character should be noted carefully, as they help to give a rockery =a +well-furnished appearance=, so that one always has something to show +visitors. + +For warm, dry, sunny nooks =rock-roses= are the very thing; where other +plants would be burnt up, the _cistus_ flourishes, for it requires no +particular depth of soil. _C. florentinus_ (white) and _C. crispus_ (dark +crimson), are two of the best. + +=One of the most exquisite and interesting rock-plants= I have ever seen +is _clematis davidiana_, a plant only introduced of recent years, but +noticeable wherever seen; it is not a climber, as its name might lead one +to suppose, for =it only grows two feet high=, and generally trails along +the ground; the flowers are curious in shape, and of a metallic blue-grey +colour; the foliage is very neat and pretty; it blooms about July, and +should be planted so that it can be examined closely. + +=The fumitories= are elegant plants, and nearly always in flower; the +blossoms are small, yellow, sometimes white, and borne in profusion +amongst the finely-cut foliage, which, =the whole summer through=, is a +bright clear green. With one plant of _corydalis lutea_ a stock can soon +be obtained, as this variety seeds freely. All the fumitories prefer a +light soil and a sunny position. + +Dwarf evergreen shrubs greatly improve the appearance of the rockery in +late autumn and winter, especially when they add berries to their +attractions. The _cotoneasters_ are evergreen, and when about a foot high +are very suitable for such a position. _C. horizontalis_ and _C. +micicrophylla_ bear scarlet berries, and are altogether very choice; they +must not be allowed to get too large, but taken up when little over a foot +high, and others substituted for them. + +=Various bulbs=, which we generally plant in the border, find a prettier +background in the rockery; here each bulb is made the most of, and, where +very small, is seen to greater advantage; even if ever so insignificant, +it cannot get buried away under a spadeful of soil, nor get splashed with +mud. You must often have noticed how crocuses get blown over and spoilt by +the wind, but in a cosy nook of the rock-work, planted fairly close +together, and in a "pocket" surrounded by bricks, they find a happy home, +and can be inspected without any difficulty. Personally, I do not care for +=crocuses in a line=; one cannot see their pure transparency, and only get +an idea of a broad band of colour; close at hand, their dewy chalices, +exquisitely veined and streaked, seem far more beautiful, particularly +where the finer sorts are selected. =All crocuses do not flower in +spring=; some of the prettiest species bloom in autumn, though many +people, seeing them at that time, imagine they are _colchicums_; the +latter, though certainly very decorative when in flower, are followed by +such coarse leaves that the crocus is decidedly preferable. + +The =hardy cyclamen= are very suitable for a rockery, as, being beauties +in miniature, they are apt to get lost in a mixed border. _C. +neapolitanum_ has marbled foliage and pretty pink flowers, and _C. +europeum_ (maroonish crimson) is also well worth growing; they must be +placed in a shady part, yet where the drainage is perfect; stagnant +moisture kills them. + +The =hardy orchids= should be tried too, especially the _cypripedium_; it +is not generally known how handsome some of them are; they like shade and +moisture; indeed, through the summer the peat they are growing in should +be a regular swamp, or they will fail to produce fine flowers. + +Another plant that likes peat is the little _daphne eneorum_. This is =an +evergreen=, and produces its pink fragrant flowers every spring; it will +not do in very smoky places, but, like the heath, must have a fairly pure +atmosphere. + +=The alpine pinks are treasures for the rockery=, and do well in town +gardens; they flower nearly all the summer, and are not particular as to +soil and position, though they prefer plenty of sun. + +=The gentians= look very well on rockwork, but like a stronger soil than +most alpines, loam suiting them best. Water should be generously given +during spring and summer. _G. acaulis_ is the best for amateurs. + +The red shades found in the =geum tribe= are very uncommon, being neither +crimson, scarlet, nor orange, but a mixture of all three, with a dash of +brown thrown in. They =flower continuously=, and have dull green woolly +foliage, which sets the flowers off well. They need a light, well-drained +soil. _Geum chilense_, or _coccineum plenum_, is a good kind, and so is +_G. miniatum_; both are about two feet high, but require no staking +whatever. Of course, it will be understood that sticks, except of the +lightest kind, are =quite inadmissible= on a rockery. + +=Helianthemums=, or =rock roses=, are charming little evergreen plants, +with wiry prostrate stems, and small flowers, which are freely produced +all the summer. They may be had in white, yellow, pink, scarlet, and +crimson, and either double or single; the variety named Mrs. C. W. Earle +is a very effective double scarlet, and quite a novelty. + +=Iris reticulata= is =a very fascinating little bulbous plant=, well +adapted for a rockery; it blooms in the early spring, and very beautiful +the flowers are, being rich violet-purple, with gold blotches on each +petal; they are scented, too; when in blossom, the stems reach to about +nine inches in height. + +One of the most lovely plants that can be imagined for a rockery is +=lithospermum prostratum=, and yet how rarely one sees it; the glossy +green leaves always look cheerful, and the flowers are exquisite, they +are a bright full blue, and each petal is slightly veined with red, it is +not difficult to grow, a dry, sunny position being all it requires; it is +of trailing habit and an ever-green. Everyone knows =the creeping jenny=, +but it is not to be despised for rock-work, especially for filling up odd +corners where other things will not thrive. It blooms best where there is +a certain amount of sun. + +=St. Dabeoc's Heath= is a pretty little shrub, very neat and of good +habit; its flowers are the true pink, shading off to white, and of the +well-known heath shape. Somewhat slow-growing, it prefers peat. + +=Plants that flower the whole season through= are most valuable on the +rockery. =OEnotheras= may be depended on to present a pleasing appearance +for several weeks, especially if all dead flowers are picked off. The +dwarf kinds are the most suitable, such as _Oenothera marginata_, +_missouriensis_, _linearis_, and _taraxacifolia_. The last-named, however, +is only a biennial, but has the advantage of =opening in the morning=, +while most of the evening primroses do not seem to think it worth while to +make themselves attractive till calling-hours. + +=The most fairy-like little plant= for filling up narrow crevices in sunny +quarters is the dear old =wood-sorrel=. It has tiny leaves like a shamrock +in shape, but of a warm red-brown colour, and the sweetest little yellow +flowers imaginable; they are borne on very short stalks, and only come out +when the sunshine encourages them; the whole plant does not exceed three +inches in height; it spreads rapidly, seeds freely, and thrives best in a +very light soil; it will also do well on walls. + +The =alpine poppies= are so delicate and graceful that they seem made for +the rockery. They only grow six inches high, and continue in flower at +least four months; they may be had in a great range of colours, and are +easily brought up from seed. Nice bushy plants can be had of these +poppies for about four shillings a dozen, and it is needless to say they +require plenty of sunshine. The word _phlox_ conveys to many people the +idea of a tall autumn-flowering plant, with large umbels of flowers, +individually about the size of a shilling. But these are not the only +species; the alpine varieties are just as beautiful in a different way, +though some are not more than a few inches high, and each flower no bigger +than a ladies' glove-button. In spring and early summer they become +=perfect sheets of bloom=, so that the foliage is completely hidden; when +out of flower, they are soft green cushions of plants, and serve to cover +bare bricks well. + +The =alpine potentillas= are pretty, and keep in flower for a long time. +_P. nepalensis_ is a good one, but the merits of _p. fruticosa_ are much +exaggerated, its dirty-looking yellow flowers are by no means +prepossessing. + +=No rockery is complete= without several specimens of the family of +_saxifrages_. One cannot do better than make a beginning with them, as +they are so fine in form and diverse in style. _S. aizoon compactum_ is +one of the best rosette species, and _S. hypnoides densa_ of the mossy +tribe; other kinds well worth growing are _S. burseriana_, which has +pretty white flowers on red hairy stems in early March; _S. cunifolia_, +with charming fresh pink blossoms, and of course _S. umbrosa_, the sweet +old-fashioned =London pride=. A dry sunny situation suits the _saxifrages_ +best. + +The =House leeks= are somewhat similar in appearance, but like drier +situations than the last-named plants. The _sempervivums_ delight to creep +along a piece of bare rock, and one marvels how they can derive enough +sustenance from the small amount of poor soil in which they are often seen +growing. The =cobweb species=, called _arachnoideum_, is most interesting, +and invariably admired by visitors; it has greyish-green rosettes, each +one of which is covered with a downy thread in the form of a spider's +web. A kind more often seen is _sempervivum montanum_, and certainly it is +a =very handsome species=, with curious flowers supported on firm +succulent red stems. It is to be seen in broad clumps at Kew, and very +well it looks. + +There are no better carpetters than the =dwarf sedums=, or =stone crops=. +_S. glaucum_ has blue-grey foliage, and spreads rapidly; _S. lydium_ is +the variety most in use, and can be had very cheaply. The tall, old +variety, _sedum spectabile_, has been improved upon, and the novelty is +called _S. s. rosea_. Another novelty is _shortia galacifolia_; it is a +native of North America, and has white, bell-shaped flowers supported on +elegant, hairy stems, the leaves are heart shaped, and turn almost scarlet +in autumn; thus, the plant has =two seasons of beauty=, as it blooms in +the spring. A peaty soil, with a little sand added, suits it well, if the +drainage is good; and it likes a half-shady position. + +=Plants that are sadly neglected= are the airy-fairy Sea-lavenders or +_Statices_, with their filmy heads like purple foam; _S. gmelini_ and _S. +limonium_ are two of the best. When cut, they last a long time, and are +very useful for giving a graceful appearance to =stiff bouquets=. + +The dwarf _thalictrums_ are =good rockery plants=; they are =grown for +their foliage=, which bears a striking resemblance to the maidenhair fern. +_T. adiantifolium_ and _T. minus_ are very pretty; their flower-heads +should always be cut off, so as to promote the production of their fine +fronds, which have the property of lasting well when cut. + +The =aromatic scent of thyme= is very pleasant on a rockery; not only +should the silver and golden varieties be grown, but also those bright +kinds which give us sheets of purple, pink, and white blossom during +summer; to thrive they must be exposed to full sunshine, when =they will +attract innumerable bees=. The new kind, _T. serpyllum roseus_, is +splendid, the tiny flowers coming in such profusion as to completely hide +the foliage. All are low-growing, having the cushion habit of growth. + +_Veronicas_ are not often seen, yet they are exceedingly pretty, and +continuous bloomers. =Amateurs should not begin with the shrub tribe=, as +these are somewhat tender, but if _V. incana_, _V. longifolia-subsessilis_, +and _V. prostrata_ are obtained, they will be sure to please. The first +and last are low-growing, but the other is two feet high, and has long +racenes like soft blue tassels, which hang down in the most charming way. + +=A few words on some more bulbs= that look well on rockeries, besides the +crocus and dwarf iris before-mentioned, may not be amiss: the =winter +aconites= are most appropriate so placed, and show to greater advantage +than in the level border. Their golden flowers, each surrounded by a frill +of green, come forth as early as January, if the weather be propitious. + +The _chionodoxa_, called also =glory of the snow=, is very fresh and +pretty, with its bright blue flowers having a conspicuous white eye. If +left undisturbed they will spread rapidly, and come up year after year +without any further trouble; they are =very cheap=, and will do in any +soil. + +=Snowdrops= are charming on rock-work, and may be placed close to the +_chionodoxa_, as they bloom almost together. + +The =grape-hyacinths= have very quaint little flowers of a bright +dark-blue colour, on stalks about five or six inches high; they flower for +some weeks, and must be massed together to get a good effect. + +=The early-flowering scillas= resemble the _chionodoxas_, but last much +longer in bloom. They are very =easy to manage=, and rarely fail to make a +good show. _S. siberica_ is the best-known variety, and can be obtained +very cheaply. + +=The miniature narcissus= is the sweetest thing imaginable; _N. minus_, is +only a few inches high, and when in the open border is apt to get +splashed, but amongst stones in a sheltered position on the rockery they +are charming. All these dwarf bulbs look so well in such positions, +because =their purity remains unsullied=. + +Here I will leave the rockery, merely intimating that =early autumn is the +best time for planting=, and that if pains are taken to construct it +properly at first, a great amount of trouble will be saved in the end. +Most of these plants and bulbs may be had of Messrs. Barr & Sons, 12, King +Street, Covent Garden. Their daffodil nurseries at Long Ditton, near +Surbiton, Surrey, are famous all the world over, but they also go in a +great deal for hardy perennials and rock plants, of which they have a +splendid stock; their prices are very reasonable, too, when you take into +consideration that everything they send out is absolutely true to name. +Their interesting catalogues will be sent post free on application. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +Trees, Shrubs, and How to Treat Them. + + _Some good plants for growing beneath them--Selection of hardy + shrubs--Enriching the soil--Climbers._ + + +Forest-trees in a small garden are somewhat out of place, but as they are +often found in such positions, I will deal with them here. It is to be +remembered that though they give most grateful shade, not only do they rob +everything beneath them of sunshine, but also =take so much out of the +soil=, that, unless constant renewals are made, very little can be grown +in their immediate vicinity; the class of plants that will do best beneath +their branches also find the soil they are growing in best renewed by the +leaves which fall therefrom. For the sake of tidiness, these of course are +swept away, but they should be kept for two or three years, and then +brought back, converted into =leaf-mould=; if this is not done, the +quality of the soil will steadily deteriorate, instead of getting richer, +as it does in woods; and this is one reason why so many wild plants fail +to thrive when brought into cultivation; manure is no substitute, but +often distasteful to them. + +=SOMETHING BESIDES IVY.= Trees must be divided into two broad sections, +=deciduous and ever-green=. Very few plants will do well under the latter, +but as regards the first, =ivy= is not by any means the only thing that +will grow, though it is often a good plan to use it as a foundation, and +work in plants here and there afterwards. There is no need to choose the +large kind; those elegant varieties with long pointed leaves are =more +ornamental and just as easy to grow=. Their roots must be restricted when +other plants are near, or they will soon take up all the room. =Ferns= +will do very well under trees, if they are plentifully watered during the +dry season. Here also a few of the choicest kinds should be grown, for +though some of them may not do so well as in a shady open spot, most of +them will give a fairly good account of themselves. Always plant them with +the rhizome above ground, not forgetting that when each fern has its full +complement of fronds, it will take up a considerably larger space than it +does at the time it is set out. + +If the _Osmunda regalis_ is tried--=the royal fern=--it is necessary to +get a good established turf of it; strong clumps cost about 1s. 6d. each; +plenty of water must be given it in the summer. I have seen it in splendid +form under a tree in a very small garden. + +Perhaps the =St. John's worts= come next to ivy and ferns in their +usefulness for planting under trees, as they are =always decorative, being +ever-green=. In the spring, the foliage is a most lovely soft apple-green, +and in summer when the golden cups filled with anthers issue forth from +the axils of the leaves, the effect is beautiful. _Hypericum calycinum_ is +the Latin term for these plants, and though they will do on the dryest +bank and in the poorest soil, being very tough and wiry, if they are grown +in good loam and manure is occasionally given them, they will repay with +far finer flowers, which will be produced for a longer season. + +=A good breadth of woodruff= makes a very pretty picture for several +weeks, and has a delightful scent; here and there bulbs can be planted +amongst it, neither being harmed by this plan. The _aubrietias_ =flower +with unfailing regularity= under trees, even when the aspect is north, and +no gleam of sunshine reaches them; their greyish-green rosettes resist +drought splendidly, and though these plants do not give us so much blossom +in unfavourable positions, still they make a very pretty show. +_Aubrietias_ can be easily propagated by division; every morsel grows. + +=BANKS UNDER TREES.= The white _arabis_ also does well under similar +conditions; both are useful for draping perpendicular surfaces, such as +the steep side of a bank or hedge. A raised border, with facing of bricks, +is rather a nice way of growing plants under trees, and the work of +tending them is pleasant, less stooping being required. + +The =mossy saxifrage= droops over the edges, and mingles well with the +_arabis_, but it must be more carefully watered, as it is apt to die out; +pieces should constantly be taken off, and dibbled in so as to fill up any +gaps. The =periwinkles= meander charmingly over the roughest stones, and +in the most dreary spots; their glossy ever-green leaves, and fresh bright +little flowerets =always looking cheerful= whatever the weather. They +creep quickly, rooting every few inches as they grow; on the perpendicular +face of the rock, succulent plants like =echeverias= can sometimes be made +to grow (those little green rosettes, having each leaf tipped with red, +which can be bought so readily in May for about twopence each). + +=Many things will do for a time=, that want renewing each year, even if +hardy. Cowslips, primroses, polyanthus, wallflowers, all will make a fair +show if planted out just before flowering, but, unless a few hours' sun +daily shines on them, they will not retain enough vitality to produce +seed, and being biennial soon die out, leaving not a trace behind. + +=A great many bulbs do admirably under deciduous trees=, especially those +which blossom before the new leaves on the branches above them have +reached any appreciable size. + +=Scillas= bloom in the same place year after year; snowdrops also do +fairly well, and lilies of the valley ring out a few of their dainty +bells every spring (a rich vegetable soil suits them best). =Tulips= only +do well when planted afresh every autumn; but, as they are so cheap, that +is not a great matter. The _megaseas_, mentioned in another chapter, give +forth many of their fine leaves, but they refuse to turn colour, owing to +the want of sun. Fox-gloves, also, grow and flower, seeming to enjoy their +position. + +=If the aspect of the space to be filled is a cold one=, such things as +geraniums will only give a few poor flowers, and then succumb. Even +pansies wilt and gradually fade away under trees, for their soft, weak +stems and leaves soon get drawn up for want of light, though they will do +well enough on an _open_ border, facing north. + +=Hard-wooded plants= will be generally found to do best; indeed, some of +the shrub tribe succeed very well, particularly barberry, _pernettyas_, +the early _daphnes_, whortleberries, _gaultheria shallon_ and +_cotoneaster_. + +While on the subject of =shrubs=, it may be as well to mention several +attractive kinds which may be planted in place of the =eternal box= and +Portugal laurel; of course, these two have almost every good quality; they +will do in any soil, are ever-green, and resist smoke, dust and dirt well; +but, in places where poor soil and a soot-laden atmosphere are absent, +=substitutes might occasionally be found for those shrubs=, which will +have the added charm of novelty. One of the nicest for small gardens is +_cotoneaster microphylla_; this is a joy to look at, all through the +winter months, when it is at its best; the branches grow in an uncommon +manner, and are of somewhat prostrate habit; they are thickly clothed with +dark, small leaves the whole way up the stem, and shining amongst them are +the pretty crimson, almost transparent berries. It is quite distinct from +the ordinary berry-bearing shrubs, as there is =nothing stiff about its +gracefully-curving sprays=, which look well cut and wedged in the +Japanese fashion. Shrubs of this variety may be had as low as sixpence, +but it is better policy to get a larger one, costing about eighteen pence, +as they will sooner be of a presentable size; they are shrubs, too, that +do not altogether show their capabilities when at a very youthful stage. + +=A GOOD ALL ROUND PLANT.= _Berberis aquifolium_ is another shrub which has +a great deal to recommend it; it is ever-green, and will do in almost any +position; it bears lovely yellow flowers in spring, purple powdered +berries in August, and the foliage turns a rich red in October. Always +ornate, it is one of the easiest shrubs to grow, and =just the thing for a +small garden=. + +=The myrtle=, though liable to be killed in a very hard frost, can often +be grown to a great size in a sheltered garden; I have seen bushes eight +yards round, in an exposed position near the river Thames, which must have +been braving the storms for many a year past. They should not be planted +out till March or April, though November is the month for most other +shrubs. The old _pyrus japonica_ =makes a good bush=, though most often +grow on a wall; its bright flowers, carmine-scarlet in colour with yellow +anthers in the centre, appear early in April, a week or two later than the +climbers, which of course are protected. When grown in bush form, it =is +sometimes pruned out of all recognition=; this is especially the case in +public gardens, and is quite an affliction to any one who knows how lovely +it can be! The knife should be restrained, allowing the _pyrus_ to take +its own shape as much as possible; it is often sold under the name of +_cydonia japonica_, as that is really its rightful title. + +=One or two of the _araucarias_ make very good shrubs for a small garden=; +they should not be grown in cold, wind-swept places, as their branches +soon turn brown if exposed to continued frost and furious blasts. There is +a magnificent specimen in the nurseries of Messrs. Veitch, Kingston Hill, +Surrey, planted about 1865; its ornamental appearance is greatly due to +the number of young branches springing out from the main trunk and almost +completely covering it; they nestle under the larger branches, and produce +a very picturesque effect. Small plants of this variety may be had for +three or four shillings. + +Messrs. Veitch have a splendid selection of shrubs, all in the best of +health; their hollies are well grown, and include all the good sorts; a +variety that bears fruit when quite young is _ilex glabrum_, of which they +have a large stock; these trees are such slow growers, that it is +advisable to get one that will look attractive almost at once. + +=Pernettyas are ornamental little shrubs=, not so much grown as they +deserve; in winter, when most things look drooping and unhappy, these +American visitors to our gardens are bright and cheerful. =The dwarf erica +carnea=, both pink and white, show their buds as early as November, and at +the turn of the year present a very pretty appearance; they look well as +edgings to rhododendron beds; their price is about sixpence each. + +=Another charming winter shrub= is _cornus sanguinea_; its beauty lies in +the red glow of its leafless stems, which makes it visible some distance +off. + +_Spirea Anthony Waterer_ is a =fine plant in late summer=, having pink +umbels of flowers and a habit somewhat like the valerian. =The snow-berry= +is good in autumn and winter, having large white berries which hang on a +long time; it is deciduous, and likes a rich soil. + +Messrs. Veitch have a splendid collection of conifers for all aspects and +positions; their small junipers are most fascinating little trees, with +flat spreading branches of the loveliest shade of green, and their +seedling firs are well balanced. They sell a great variety of lilac trees +too. + +=GRAFTED LILACS.= A note on lilacs will not be amiss; if you notice that +any lilacs you may happen to have flower sparsely, and are poor in size +and colour it will be as well to examine the stems close to the soil, and +you will probably find a fine crop of suckers; all these must be cut away +as sedulously as those on your rose-trees, for =nearly all lilacs are +grafted=, very few kinds being sold on their own roots. + +The _forsythias_ are =pretty climbers or shrubs=, according to the variety +chosen, much like the yellow jasmine, with its golden stars on leafless +stems. Just as the latter, however, is going out of flower the +_forsythias_ are coming on, and therefore give a succession of very pretty +blossoms. + +Originally from China, =the wigelias= have now taken a place in many +English gardens, by reason of their fresh pink and white flowers and easy +cultivation. They bloom late in spring, and should be placed by preference +=against a dark wall=, as their flowers, being surrounded by pale-green +foliage, do not stand out sufficiently on a light one. + +=THE DELICATE CEANOTHUS.= The exquisite summer-flowering _ceanothus_ has +been mentioned before, but I notice it here again because it is one of +those =shrubs that should not be overlooked= on any account; its leaves +are somewhat like those of a heliotrope, and its flowers are bluish-mauve +in colour and borne in trusses; it blooms for many weeks and has a most +delicious scent, and should be planted out in the spring. + +=A neglected but really remarkable shrub is the= _rhus cotinus_--=the +smoke plant.= In early August it is a striking sight, with its curious +inflorescence quite impossible to describe. At Hampton Court there are two +or three fine species. + +=WINTER SHRUBBERY.= It will be observed that shrubs presenting a +decorative appearance in winter are made much of; this is because +soft-wooded plants always look miserable then, whereas with a few +berry-bearing shrubs and a nice selection of bulbs, we may have a =pretty +garden all the year round=. Once planted, however, they should not be left +entirely to take care of themselves; the soil must be enriched +occasionally, if we wish for good results, and great care taken to =train +them in the way they should go=, by pinching out shoots which would tend +to give a lop-sided effect. Such things as firs must be unobtrusively +staked till they are able to support themselves, as =symmetrical growth= +is part of their charm, and we must remember that "as the twig is bent, +the tree is inclined." =Standard rhododendrons= require to be very +carefully staked until they have a fair hold of the ground, or their big +heads are caught by the wind, and this loosens the soil to such an extent +that it is impossible for fresh roots to be made. Generally, some of the +=bush rhododendrons= should be grown amongst the standards, and if these +are dotted about with clumps of lilies the effect is very rich. _Lilium +tigrinum splendens_ is =one of the best for this purpose=, and is most +brilliantly beautiful during August and September; they are six feet in +height, and the flowers are a rich orange red, with black spots on each +petal; they can be obtained for half-a-crown the dozen. + +=A lily suitable for placing amongst azaleas=, as it is only three feet +high, is _lilium speciosum album_; it has glistening pure-white flowers, +and a graceful habit. The shade of the shrub is most beneficial to the +lilies, as they dislike strong sunshine, and of course they are also +protected from cold in winter. The same soil, a mixture of peat, loam and +sand, suits both. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +=The Ins and Outs of Gardening= + + _Planting--Watering--"Puddling"--Aspect--Shelter--Youth and age in + relation to plants--Catalogue defects--A time for everything._ + + +Now that we have seen what to plant, it will be advisable to learn =how to +plant it=. + +Perhaps the most important point to be taken notice of is the necessity of +=firm planting=. Watch how a clever gardener presses the earth well round +the roots of everything he puts in, where the plants are large, treading +the soil down with his foot. =Loose planting is ruinous= (except in a few +isolated cases), and yet it is a favourite practice with amateurs, who +call it treating their flowers tenderly! But, as with the human kind, =a +judicious mixture of firmness and tenderness= is the happy medium to be +aimed at, and which alone insures success. + +=A good watering= helps to make the soil settle as much as anything; +therefore, when put into the ground the plants should be well soaked, +after which they should be left for a few days, with the exception of +=overhead watering=, which is most refreshing. In very hot weather, it is +often possible to transplant with perfect safety, if the roots are put +into "puddle." + +=PLANTING IN "PUDDLE."= "Puddle" is a very expressive gardening term, +which signifies soil mixed with so much water as almost to have acquired +the consistency of a paste. =Operation 1=--well water the plant to be +removed; =operation 2=--dig the hole which is to receive it; =operation +3=--fill the same with water up to the rim; =operation 4=--carefully take +up your plant with plenty of soil round it; =operation 5=--gently place it +in hole prepared, the walls of which will then be thoroughly soaked; +=operation 6=--fill in with the "puddle" above referred to; =operation +7=--tread gently but firmly down; and, lastly, scatter a little dryer soil +on the top. Flowers planted in this fashion can be taken up even during +June, July and August; and, if properly looked after, will scarcely flag +at all. + +=EFFECTS OF ASPECT.= The influence of aspect on plants is an interesting +study; we all know that a shrub on a south wall is practically in a +different climate to a shrub on a north wall. One reason why tender plants +do so well on a =south or west aspect= is because the sun does not reach +it till some hours after it has risen and warmed the air. The =sun shining +on half-frozen buds= often has a disastrous effect on plants climbing +walls with an eastern aspect; consequently, a north wall is often better +for a delicate plant, if the warmest aspect cannot be given it; camellias, +for instance, when outside prefer it to any other. =If a succession of one +kind of flower is desired=, a group facing each corner oL the compass will +often accomplish this, sometimes as much difference as a month being +noted. Certain unimpressionable plants refuse to alter their season of +blooming, but, as a rule, it is a sure method of attaining this object. +=Colouring is also vastly influenced by aspect=; such things as pansies, +for example, never show such rich markings under a hot sun, but require an +east border to bring out their true beauties. Scotland suits them +admirably, with its cool summer nights and moist atmosphere. + +=THE IMPORTANCE OF SHELTER.= Shelter has a great deal to do with success +in a garden; in the ordinary town garden, the builder has generally been +only too obliging in this respect, but in bleak hilly spots it might +almost be called the gardener's watchword. Few things except Scotch firs +and the like will stand a =long-continued high wind= with impunity; not +only does it wrench the plants out of the soil, but, if it comes from a +cold quarter, both flowers and leaves curl up at its approach and refuse +to thrive; they become nipped in the bud, as at the touch of frost. +Everyone has experienced the meaning of shelter when out in a cold +nor'-easter; how it bites one, making the blood stand still with its fury! +then, all at once, we round the corner, and hey presto! all is changed; +the air is quite caressing, and the blood tingles to our very finger-tips +from the sudden reaction. With due regard to shelter, then, =climates can +be "manufactured" without glass=. In extensive grounds, these wind-breaks +are made by planting lines of trees, but in smaller spaces it may be done +differently. The construction of =light fences=, not over five feet in +height, run up inside the compound, accomplish a good deal, as may be seen +by any visitor to the nurseries of Messrs. Barr, at Long Ditton; they are +=not ugly if well clothed=, and make an effectual break in a much shorter +time than would be the case if fruit-trees were planted, though there is +nothing prettier than a row of apple or pear trees, grown espalier +fashion, if time is no object. Many things will nestle beneath them, and +flower beautifully for months together, for, though these fruit-trees are +deciduous, the force of the wind is considerably lessened by them, on the +same principle that =fishing-nets are such a protection from frost= to +wall-climbers; and this again may be compared to the veils which ladies +use to protect their skin. Though of wide mesh, the fishing-nets will keep +off five or six degrees of frost, and in certain cases are better than a +closer protection, like tiffany, which sometimes "coddles" the trees too +much. + +=A few words on the respective qualities of youth and age= may not be +amiss. Amateurs are so often disappointed in their garden purchases, +because they will not allow the plants sufficient time to demonstrate +their capabilities. =Catalogues are much to blame= in this respect; an +enticing description of a shrub is given, and the confiding amateur orders +it, believing that in a year or two it will fulfil its character. How can +he be expected to know that that particular variety never bears any +flowers worth speaking of till it is at least seven years old! In the long +run, I think nurserymen will find it pay to tell the whole truth regarding +each plant they send out, not merely in a negative way either. If an +alpine, for example, like _linnea borealis_, is extremely difficult to +grow and flower in this country, it is only fair to say so; to place it +amongst a lot of easily-cultivated plants without a word of warning is +=not straightforward dealing=, moreover is apt to make people disgusted +with the whole thing. Some plants bloom much the best when in their first +youth; this is the case with many of the soft-wooded plants, which soon +give signs of exhaustion, especially in a light soil. When it is noticed +that the outside flowering stems produce finer blossoms than those from +the centre, it is generally =a sign that division is required=, and that +the soil wants enriching. + +=THE CALENDAR.= That there is =a time for everything in gardening= is +almost a truism; the calendar is considered one of the most important +parts of a technical book on this subject. It is advisable for an amateur +gardener to =have a note-book=, in which he jots down what he has to do +several weeks or months in advance; so often some fault easily remedied is +left over from year to year, because perhaps it is only observed in the +summer, and cannot be mended till winter. Recently, the calendar has not +been given quite so much prominence; gardeners find out more and more that +the weather is not governed by it, and that though one year it may be best +to sow a certain seed at the beginning of February, another season may be +so cold that it will have to go in at least a fortnight later. +Nevertheless, taken roughly, this diary of events, as the dictionary calls +it, holds good for most years, and it is wise to stick to it as far as +possible. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +The Profitable Portion + + _Fruit--The best kinds for a small garden--Avoidance of size minus + flavour--Vegetables--Herbs._ + + +If a small garden has room for any fruit-trees, =apples are the most +useful= kind to grow; they can be so trained as to take up little room; +for instance, in _espalier_ fashion, down each side of a sunny walk. These +=apple-hedges= are a lovely sight in spring and also in the autumn, when +the ruddy fruit is waiting to drop into the outstretched hand. Though +names can easily be given, it is generally a good plan to =make enquiries +in the neighbourhood as to the best varieties= to grow, for so much +depends on soil and position. Colloquial names are often given, which +require identifying with existing varieties; this can be done by sending +up a specimen of the fruit to the manager of a correspondence column in +some reliable gardening magazine. These gentlemen are generally able to +give the desired information, and no charge is made. =A surer method= +still is to send the fruit which it is desired to identify to some +well-known nurseries, such as those of Messrs. Rivers at Sawbridgeworth, +Hertfordshire; they have acres upon acres of splendid fruit-trees of every +kind, and my readers cannot do better than purchase all they require from +them. Having such wide experience, they can recommend varieties suitable +for all kinds of soil and all sorts of positions. For small gardens, +apple-trees grafted on =the paradise stock= are much to be recommended, as +they are compact in habit, taking up but little room and =begin bearing +almost at once=. Messrs. Rivers guarantee their trees on this stock to +continue in full-bearing for many years. "Plant pears, and you plant for +your heirs" is the old saying, but this is all changed now that the +=quince stock= is used so much. _Cordon_ pears on wire fencing bear +first-rate crops, and are particularly good for small gardens; the +diagonal cordon is perhaps the best. =Cooking pears= can be grown on north +walls, but it is not advisable to try dessert varieties on such a cold +aspect. + +=STONE FRUIT.= To grow stone fruit successfully, =the soil must contain a +fair quantity of lime=; moreover the trees, especially if trained against +walls, must be kept well-watered at the stoning period. After the fruit +has been picked, less moisture is required. + +=Standard plants are very profitable=, as crops of currants and +gooseberries can be grown beneath them; this double system of cropping the +ground being a great advantage where space is a consideration. =Plums= +require little pruning, and are also not so liable to attacks of birds as +other fruit. When ordering, =do not get too many trees of one variety=, a +good selection will give a long succession of fruit; this applies to all +kinds of fruit-trees. + +=Currants are a very manageable fruit=, as they do well in almost any +position; heavy crops can be secured from bushes planted on north borders, +the =black currant= thriving though it only gets a minimum of sunshine; +=gooseberries= are not exacting either, and will give a good return for a +small amount of labour. Both may be propagated by cuttings, and are very +reasonable in price, only costing about four shillings a dozen. Messrs. +Rivers' stock of =maiden peach-trees= and =nectarines= is unsurpassed, and +many of the best kinds obtainable have been raised by them, and are of +worldwide fame. Regarding that oft-debated question of protecting the +blossom in spring, they do not advise anything in the nature of bracken to +be used, this often doing more harm than good. If possible, =a glass +coping= should be placed along the top of the wall, from which tiffany +can depend on cold nights; unless this be done, it is best to leave them +alone. Fine crops are often obtained in the south and west of England +without any protection whatever, the good seasons amply compensating for +the bad. + +It occasionally happens that the amateur has an advantage over the market +grower. This is particularly the case where one wants to curtail the +=depredations of birds=; it pays to protect a few yards of fruit, but +where it is a case of several acres, the trees have to take their chance. +=Cherries= have to be watched very carefully in this respect; it is very +desirable to keep the =Morello cherries= hanging long, as they then become +sweeter and make good tarts. These trees do very well on north walls. + +=WANT OF FLAVOUR.= One great fault noticeable in fruit-growing of recent +years is that everything is sacrificed to size and appearance, flavour +being at a discount; the shows have had a great deal to do with this; in +the old days, when they were fewer in number, the test of a fruit was its +taste. =Strawberries= in particular have deteriorated in this way, the +huge kinds now seen often being absolutely devoid of the luscious flavour +generally associated with them. Of course we have =better keeping +varieties=, and they can be obtained much later than was once the case. If +the culture of the perpetual varieties is extended strawberries will be in +season many weeks longer, and this will be extremely good news for +invalids, who find it as a rule one of the easiest fruits to digest. =The +cultivation of strawberries is fairly easy=, but their wants must be +regularly attended to. Once in three years the old plants must be taken +up, and new ones (the "runners" issuing from the old) planted instead; in +the summer a good mulching of strawy manure should be placed between the +rows, as this helps to keep the fruit clean, besides enriching the soil. +Plants which are expected to bear a good crop of fruit must have all their +runners cut off as fast as they appear, as it exhausts the plants much to +bear both. =Strawberries are partial to rather a light soil=, but nearly +all other fruit-trees revel in a mixture of loam and clay, with a little +sand to keep it open. This soil does not suffer so much from drought, and, +being firmer, the larger trees can send their roots down and get a far +better hold of the ground than is possible in shingly, poor soils. + +=ORNAMENTAL AND USEFUL.= =Vegetables= take up a good deal of room in a +garden if they are wanted all the year round, but a few things can be +easily grown. =Scarlet runner beans=, being ornamental as well as useful, +are some of the best vegetables to grow, as they can be made to form a +convenient screen for a rubbish heap. These can be brought up from seed +sown early in April, and, when a foot high, require sticks; these come +rather expensive if new ones are used every summer, but with care they +will last two and even three seasons, though latterly they become very +brittle. On the rubbish heap, =marrows= can be grown with the greatest +facility, as they revel in the rich warmth there found. They should be +bought when a few inches high, and planted out at the end of May, as they +are only half hardy. When the flower at the end drops off they are ready +to cut; if allowed to get much larger they lose all their flavour. A few, +however, should be allowed to become quite ripe, as they can be used in +the autumn for making apple-tart, two parts apple to one part marrow, and +they also make =a good jam= when spiced with ginger, etc. + +=RELATIONS OF THE SUNFLOWERS.= =Jerusalem artichokes= will flourish on a +north border, and come in very nicely during November; they are planted in +exactly the same manner as potatoes, that is, by means of pieces +containing two or three "eyes," which should go in about February. Like +potatoes, too, they can be stored; though so tall, they do not require any +sticks; these artichokes present much the same appearance as the ordinary +cottager's sun-flower (indeed, the botanical name is identical, +_helianthus_), having thick, hollow stems, covered with long, pointed, +hairy leaves. + +=Potatoes are rather "kittle-kattle"= for amateurs, but where the soil is +light they should certainly be tried, especially where there is room for a +rotation of crops, as successive planting should not be made in the same +place. Beware of giving rank manure to them, a sure precursor of disease; +artificial manures, such as guano are far more suitable. =No trees must be +allowed near them=, but a sunny open piece of ground be given up to them. +March is the month to plant and the rows should be from fifteen inches to +two feet apart. + +=Carrots and turnips= also prefer a light soil and sunny situation. Seeds +of both should be sown in March, when the soil is in a friable condition, +several times subsequently; the seeds must be well thinned out, and the +space between the rows constantly turned by the hoe; the latter operation +is particularly needful in heavy land, as it not only destroys weeds, but +prevents the soil from caking: the rows should be about a foot apart. +Before the turnips are ready, the young green tops make a vegetable by no +means to be despised. + +=Herbs=, such as mint, parsley, mustard and cress, should be grown in +every garden, as they take up but little space and are so much dearer to +buy. =Mint= is perennial, and will come up year after year, giving no +trouble whatever; it spreads rapidly and will grow anywhere. To start a +bed, roots can be bought from some market-gardener, or cuttings can be +struck from the bunches bought in the shops. + +=Parsley= is a biennial, though generally grown as an annual, because the +leaves from young plants are much the best; the seeds should be sown two +or three times a year, beginning about February, in a sheltered nook; +=this herb likes plenty of sun=; even the curliest varieties degenerate +if placed in a damp shady situation. It prefers light soil, and gives a +better winter supply than where the soil is heavy. Flower-heads must be +cut off regularly to keep the plants in good condition, though just a few +of the best kinds may be allowed to perfect their seed, which should be +sown as soon as ripe. =Mustard and cress= should also be sown several +times during the summer; the cress must be sown three or four days before +the mustard, to obtain them ready for cutting at the same time; both must +be cut almost directly they appear, as, if allowed to grow tall, they +become tough, and their flavour is lost; these seeds require no thinning +out, the exception that proves the rule. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +Annuals and Biennials + + _How to grow annuals--Some good kinds--Some good biennials._ + + +Many amateurs look upon annuals as rubbishy things to grow, and only +suitable for the children's gardens, but that is because they have +generally failed to grow them properly. With the improved kinds now in +cultivation, it is possible to make the portion of the flower-garden +devoted to them "a thing of beauty" if not "a joy for ever." As it is more +satisfactory to bring them up from the beginning, I have described in +Chapter XVI. a method generally successful. =Seed-sowing out-of-doors= +being rather precarious, I have found it advisable to =sow all the smaller +seeds either in a green-house or frame=, however hardy the annual be. This +not only saves endless trouble in the way of protecting the seed from +birds, etc., but is advantageous in that one has an earlier display of +bloom, owing to the growth being quicker under glass. Below is a table of +the choicest kinds:-- + +ANNUALS. + + NAME. LENGTH. COLOUR. + + Bartonia aurea 1 to 1-1/2 ft. Golden yellow. + + Celosia plumosa 1-1/2 ft. Red and yellow. + (Somewhat after the style of Prince's feather; tender.) + + Coreopsis (or Calliopsis) 2 ft. Yellow and red. + + Eschscholtzia 1 ft. Bright yellow. + (Very pretty grey-green foliage; select.) + + Gaillardia 1-1/2 ft. Yellow and red. + (The "blanket flower"; good for cutting.) + + Godetia 9 ins. Red to white. + (Cup-shaped; showy.) + + Mesembryanthemum 1/2 to 1 ft. Ice plant. + (Grown for its foliage, which glistens beautifully; must have sun.) + + Ionopsidium acaule 2 to 3 ins. Pale mauve. + (Miniature plants for filling up crevices in rockwork.) + + Linum coccineum 1 ft. New scarlet variety. + + Lupinus arboreus, + "Snow-queen" 3 to 4 ft. Pure white. + (A very stately plant; new.) + + Nemophila grandiflora 1/2 ft. Beautiful blue and white. + (Remind one of the eyes of a child.) + + Phlox drummondi 1 ft. All shades of red to white + (Half-hardy; must be massed.) + + Shirley poppy 1 ft. All shades of pink. + (Very graceful and free; light soil.) + + Portulaca 1/2 ft. Mixed colours. + (The most effective of all annuals; half-hardy; must have plenty of + sun and a light soil.) + + Salpiglossis 1-1/2 ft. All shades. + (Very fragile flowers, veined and marked in exquisite fashion; must + be massed.) + + Silene pendula compacta 1/2 ft. Bright pink. + (Flowers shaped somewhat like a Maltese cross.) + + Stocks, double, ten-week 1 ft. Various. + (When thinning, only keep the weakest seedlings, as those are the + double ones.) + + +BIENNIALS. + +These, if sown one spring, will not flower the following summer, but do so +the year after. + + NAME. LENGTH. COLOUR. + + Fox-gloves 3 to 4 ft. White and coloured + (White, most picturesque; all do well in shade; unless seed is required, + cut out main stem, when side shoots will flower.) + + Lunaria biennis 1-1/2 to 2 ft. The old "honesty." + (Much prized for its silvery seed-pods.) + + Polyanthus 1/2 ft. Mixed colours. + (Admirable for shady places; water well.) + + Japanese pinks 1 ft. Deepest crimson to white. + (Fringed petals; a whole bed of this is lovely.) + + Sweet Williams 1 ft. Mixed shades. + (Auricula type, the best; there is a novelty, blackish-maroon in shade, + which should be placed amongst some of the crimson varieties.) + + Snap-dragons 2 ft. Varied. + (Flower from June to November; eschew reds of a mauve hue.) + + Wallflower, "Ruby Gem" 2 ft. Reddish violet. + +The seeds of all these, true to name and ripe for germination, may be +obtained from Messrs. Barr, Long Ditton, Surrey, who sell sixpenny packets +of all these kinds; small quantities of the well-known sorts only costing +threepence. This is a =great advantage to owners of small gardens=, as one +does not wish to give 1s. 6d. or 2s. 6d. for perhaps two thousand seeds of +one variety, when only two or three dozen are required. Penny packets of +seeds may be had from the One and All Company at most greengrocer's, and +are really wonderful value for the money. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +Window Boxes + + _How to make them--Relation of box to residence they are intended to + adorn--Suitable soil--Window plants for different aspects._ + + +Where gardens are small, one seems to need window boxes more than where +there is land and to spare. They add to the number of one's flowers, and, +if carefully looked after, decidedly =improve the appearance of a house=. +That is a large "If" though, for unkempt boxes only make it look untidy. + +=FLOWERS FIRST, BOX SECOND.= Though the tiled sort obtain a good deal of +patronage, nothing really looks much better than boxes covered with virgin +cork, if constantly renewed, for it acts as =a foil to the flowers=, +whereas patterned tiles are rather apt to take one's attention away from +them. In summer, certainly, they have the advantage of preserving the +earth in a moist condition, and in smoky towns they help to give a bright, +clean look to the houses so decorated. Old-fashioned houses, however, +should always have their window boxes made in the virgin cork style, as +they accord better with their surroundings. + +When strong wooden boxes have been procured, it is quite easy to tack on +the cork one's self, provided one has a sharp knife and a good supply of +long nails, and it is =most fascinating work=; it is advisable to wear +gloves during the process, as the hands may become rough otherwise. Seven +pounds of the cork may be had for a shilling of any seedsman, and three +lots will do two boxes of the average size. =The soil should be fairly +light=, like that used for potting, but before the boxes are filled, +several holes, bored with a red-hot poker, should be made in the bottom, +and a thin layer of "crocks" spread over them; do not quite fill the box +with soil, but leave an inch or two free to allow of watering, and even +more if a layer of moss or =cocoa-nut fibre= is used to cover the surface +of the soil; this is certainly an improvement till the plants get large +enough to cover it themselves. Only =artificial manures= must be used to +fertilize the roots, and even those must not be given too often, but only +in the hot weather, when growth is quick, as they are stimulating to a +great degree. + +=Constant renewals are necessary=, if the boxes are to look gay all the +year round; even the best gardeners acknowledge this. If continuous +bloomers are chosen, however, the cost is considerably modified. Perhaps +the =winter shrubs= are the most expensive item; yet they are often chosen +without much regard to cheerfulness; indeed, the favourite kinds present a +most funereal appearance. + +=Aspect= has always a good deal to do with the selection of plants, but in +the case of windows facing north and east, it is the cold winds more than +the absence of sun which restricts the choice. Shelter is a great factor +in their well-being. + +=SHOWY IN WINTER.= In a cosy box with a western exposure, and protected on +the north, the golden-tipped _retinosporas_ make =a pretty show during the +cold months= of the year, and form a welcome change from the prevailing +dark green tones. _Cotoneasters_, _pernettyas_, and the variegated +_euonymus_ are also very suitable. The polypody ferns, being evergreen, +look very well too, and =will thrive facing all four points of the +compass=. In the spring, =dwarf wall-flowers=, interspersed with different +kinds of bulbs, make the boxes look bright, and the new _pyrus maulei_ is +also very pretty at this season. The =perennial candytuft=, too, is a +splendid flower for late spring, particularly _iberis correafolia_, which +has a neat habit, and bears quantities of snow-white flowers; it likes +sun, and not too much moisture. The =yellow jasmine=, which is so pretty +in winter, looks extremely well when allowed to droop over the edges of a +box, as it flowers in quite a young state. The mossy _saxifrages_ are +suitable for the edges of the box, and are always ornamental; their +charming white flowers, supported on red stalks, appear about May. + +Such =bulbs= as the Duc Van Thol tulips are very bright, and mix well with +the shrubs; they should be put in some time in October. =Crocuses= look +well, too, but should not be placed in the same box as the tulips, or too +gaudy an appearance will result. A thick planting along the front of the +box of the Starch hyacinth--_muscari_--is =uncommon=, and an exceedingly +nice thing to have, as the moment the window is open fragrant whiffs, +resembling new-mown hay, pour into the room, especially on a sunny +morning. When these bulbs have to make way for the summer flowers, it is +advisable to plant them out in the garden and use another lot next year, +as the =constant transplantation somewhat weakens them=. Of course, one +could leave them in the box during the summer, if it were not for the +unsightly decaying leaves, which =must on no account be cut off=. + +About the middle of May for the South of England, and a fortnight later +for the North, is the time to furnish the boxes for the summer. If the +window is small, low-growing plants and trailers should prevail. + +=FOR COLD ASPECTS.= Some good flowers for north and east aspects are +_fuschias_, _calceolarias_, _begonias_, and the lovely white _campanula +isophylla_; the latter thrives best in such conditions, bearing finer +flowers for a much greater length of time than where the sun scorches it. +=These plants accord well with stucco=, which serves to show up their +whiteness more than anything. =Marguerites=, yellow and white, also thrive +in the cooler windows of a house, and are not so exigent in the matter of +watering when so placed. When selecting =begonias= for boxes it is well to +choose the single varieties with moderate-sized blossoms; the big flabby +ones soon become spoilt by rain, and are not produced so freely, nor is +their habit of growth so good. + +=For hot situations= the double geraniums are splendid, but they should +not be mixed with lobelias, as they look infinitely better when grouped by +themselves, the shades ranging from dark crimson to the palest +salmon-pink. + +=PRETTY TRAILERS.= The quick-growing _tradescantia_ with its many-jointed +stems and glossy bright green leaves, softens =the somewhat formal +appearance of the geraniums=, and will cover all the bare soil in a +marvellously short space of time, and droop over the edges in long +streamers; it is quite distinct from the tall _tradescantias_ mentioned in +a former chapter, and is the easiest thing in the world to propagate, as +any little bits saved over from a bouquet will make roots in a bowl of +water, or they can be "struck" in the ordinary way in a pot under glass. +The variegated _tradescantia_ is =a very choice trailer=, but a little +more tender than the other, and requires a sunny position, while the plain +green variety will do anywhere outside in the summer, even growing well +under trees. + +=For autumn= there are the =hardy chrysanthemums=, and if dwarf varieties +with fibrous roots are chosen, a very good show can be made with these +till the middle or end of November. The protection afforded them by the +house keeps them in good condition longer than when they are in the open, +especially when a thin veiling, such as tiffany, is afforded them on cold +nights. Even newspapers will keep out several degrees of frost, and form a +very cheap method of protection. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +Table Decoration and Flowers in Season + + _Graceful arrangement--How to manage thick-skinned + stems--Colour-schemes--Bad colours for artificial light--Preserving + and resuscitating--Table of flowers in season._ + + +The fashion of decorating tables to the extent now done is of +comparatively recent date. When the duties were taken off the importation +of foreign flowers, they became so much lower in price that the great +middle-class could afford to buy some even in mid-winter. In the British +Isles themselves, too, the carriage of flowers is much cheaper and more +expeditious, though there is plenty of room for improvement still in that +respect. =The manner of arranging= them has much altered, for, instead of +cramming a clumsy vase to its utmost limits with a dozen different flowers +of as many shades, only one, two, or at most three, kinds are now used, +and these are set out in as =graceful and airy= a manner as possible. +=Plain glass vases=, as a rule, show the blossoms off best, though pale +green or ruby occasionally looks very well. The water need not be changed +every day in all cases; it depends on the flower; wall-flowers, for +instance, turn the water putrid very soon, while it keeps fresh much +longer where roses are concerned. =The vases should, however, be filled up +once a day=, as the stems suck up moisture rapidly. Hard-wooded flower +stalks should receive special attention, or they will droop directly. + +=STEM-SPLITTING.= Lilac, when cut and placed in water will absorb no more +moisture than a lead pencil, unless the stems are split up; this can be +done either with a hammer or a knife or both. As many leaves as possible +should be left on the stems, for when under water they largely help to +make the blossoms last well; it is only where the stalks are nearly +leafless that the splitting and peeling is necessary. + +=Maidenhair fern may be made to last= much longer if the end of the black, +wiry stem is hammered for about an inch up. + +It must not be forgotten that =cutting from a plant strengthens it=, and +induces it to continue sending up flower-stalks. People often seem chary +of cutting their roses with any length of stem, I suppose because it has +leaves and shoots all the way up, but this is an error; they should be cut +with about eight or ten inches of stalk; pansies and _violas_ also look +much more natural when a portion of the shoot is cut along with each +blossom. + +=BY PARCEL POST.= On hot summer days, when flowers are to be sent by post, +=they should be picked early in the morning=, several hours before they +are to be sent off, and placed in bowls of water; then, if they are packed +close together in tin, wood, or even card-board boxes they will arrive +quite fresh at their destination, where otherwise they would be hopelessly +faded. When a box of flowers is received, the contents should be put =in +luke-warm water= in a dim light for an hour or so; they can then be +re-arranged in the vases they are intended to occupy. + +=BLUE--A DAYLIGHT COLOUR.= Some colours respond to artificial light much +better than others. =Most shades of blue are not suitable for decorating +dinner tables=, because they turn almost brown, or at best a dull mauve. +In choosing violets, therefore, for evening wear, it will be found that +the blossoms which have thin, rather washed-out petals of the lightest +purple will look best, the full blue not being nearly so effective. =For +luncheon=, an arrangement of purple clematis in vases on the palest pink +ground is lovely, but does not look quite so well by gas-light, though +here again if the least velvety flowers are chosen for evening, a good +effect can be obtained. + +=Yellow is a splendid evening colour=, but must be bright, or it will look +merely cream. A dining-room panelled in light oak, adorned with yellow +marguerites alone, is very pleasing to the eye. In the spring, =laburnum +makes a novel dressing for a dining-table=; care, however, must be +exercised with this flower, as the pods are poisonous. Blue also looks +well with brown in the day-time; larkspurs, forget-me-nots, _plumbago_, +_campanulas_, _nemophilla_, etc., all look very well. We know how artistic +blue porcelain is on oak shelves, and, if the flowers have a white eye or +are veined with white, the effect is somewhat the same. =Scarlet is a good +gas or electric light colour=, but it must be used judiciously, and as a +rule only be mixed with white, just as the ladies at a regimental ball are +generally only allowed to robe themselves in this pure shade. + +=SIMPLICITY.= Now-a-days the decorations are rarely made so high that one +cannot see the other side of the table. Though this arrangement might +occasionally be useful in hiding the face of an enemy, on the whole it was +found inconvenient; accordingly they have climbed down; the "bazaar-stall" +fashion is also disappearing, and flat table-centres are used instead, or +none at all. Simplicity is the great cry now, and though of course it may +be costly, a charming effect is obtained with fewer flowers than was +formerly considered correct, and is moreover easily imitated by an +artistic eye in less expensive blossoms. + +Some of the flowers to be had in each respective season are enumerated on +p. 86. It will be noticed that where plenty of out-door blossoms are to be +had, the hot-house varieties are omitted. + + +TABLE OF NATURAL AND FORCED FLOWERS FOR EACH MONTH. + +JANUARY. + +_Natural._ + + Christmas rose. + Yellow jasmine. + +_Forced._ + + Carnations. + Eucharis. + Gardenias. + Poinsettias. + Tuberoses. + Late chrysanthemums. + Roman hyacinths. + Odontoglossum (orchid). + Tulips. + Violet, single and double. + Narcissus. + + +FEBRUARY. + +_Natural._ + + Christmas roses. + Yellow jasmine. + Daphne. + Snowdrops. + +_Forced._ + + White lilac. + Carnation. + Hyacinths. + Tulips. + Geraniums. + Marguerites. + Cattleya (orchid). + Camellias. + Roses. + Dicentra. + Narcissus. + + +MARCH. + +_Natural._ + + Violets. + Early narcissus. + Almond blossom. + Cowslips. + Polyanthus. + +_Forced._ + + Freesias. + Lily of the valley. + Arums. + Narcissus. + Mauve lilac. + Anemones. + Lilium Harrisii. + " longiflorum. + Roses. + Azaleas. + + +APRIL. + +_Natural._ + + Daffodils. + Wallflowers. + Forget-me-not. + Tulips. + Alyssum. + Anemones. + Doronicums. + +_Forced._ + + Sweet peas. + Roses. + Carnations. + Arums. + Lilies of the valley. + Alliums. + Acacia. + Epacris. + + +MAY. + +_Natural._ + + Laburnum. + Poet's eye narcissus. + Doronicums. + Trollius. + Iris. + Parrot tulips. + Lilies of the valley. + Syringa. + Lilac. + Ranunculus. + +_Forced._ + + Arums. + Ixias. + Gladiolus (scarlet and white). + + +JUNE. + +_Natural._ + + Sweet peas. + Roses. + Pinks. + Pyrethrums (single). + Larkspurs. + Canterbury bells. + Penstemons. + Lilies. + Columbines. + Flag iris and other iris. + + +JULY. + +_Natural._ + + Clematis. + Montbretias. + St. John's wort. + Campanulas. + Poppies (to be picked in the bud). + Carnations. + Cornflowers. + Indian pinks. + Erigeron (like an early Michaelmas daisy). + Gladiolus. + + +AUGUST. + +_Natural._ + + Clematis. + Coreopsis. + Gaillardias. + Snapdragons. + Sunflowers. + Gladiolus. + Dahlias. + Roses. + Carnations. + + +SEPTEMBER. + +_Natural._ + + Michaelmas daisies. + Pinks. + Chrysanthemums. + Lilies. + Sunflowers. + Japanese anemones. + Roses. + +_Forced._ + + Tuberoses. + Cattleyas. + Eucharis. + Gardenias. + + +OCTOBER. + +_Natural._ + + Michaelmas daisies. + Chrysanthemums. + Physalis (or Cape gooseberry). + Violets. + Single Marigolds. + +_Forced._ + + Salvias. + Marguerites. + Tuberoses. + Eucharis. + Odontoglossum. + Cattleya. + Bouvardia. + Roses. + Carnations. + + +NOVEMBER. + +_Natural._ + + Michaelmas daisies. + Chrysanthemums. + The gladwin iris (berries). + Violets. + +_Forced._ + + Eucharis. + Geraniums. + Marguerites. + Salvias. + Carnations. + Chrysanthemums. + Odontoglossum. + Cattleya. + Bouvardia. + Camellias. + + +DECEMBER. + +_Natural._ + + Yellow jasmine. + Christmas roses. + +_Forced._ + + Salvias. + Cypripediums. + Violets. + Poinsettias. + Geraniums. + Chrysanthemums. + Lilies of the valley. + Roman hyacinths. + Coelogyne (orchid). + Narcissus in variety. + +=The cost of a flower is always in proportion to its blooming time.= If +lilies of the valley are wanted in August, they must be paid for heavily, +as retarded bulbs (those which have been kept in ice) are used to produce +them. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +The Propagation of Plants + + _By dividing--By cuttings--By seeds--By layers._ + + +=Propagation may be affected in various ways=, of which division is +perhaps the easiest. It must be done very carefully, or decay will set in. +Some plants lend themselves to this form of propagation very readily; in +others, the root stock is single and obviously resents division, wherefore +it is better to try another plan. The Michaelmas daisies are good +instances of the first kind; their roots are fibrous, and soon take to the +new soil; it is tap-rooted plants which dislike division so much. + +=CAREFUL DIVISION.= It is advisable to divide most plants in the growing +season, which is from spring to early autumn; if it is done in the winter +months, each piece frequently remains quite inert and eventually rots. The +plant should be taken up, with a fork by preference, and then pulled +carefully apart with the hand. =The smallest fragment of the old white +anemone will grow=, but few plants will stand quite so much division. Each +piece should be well watered as it is planted, and if the sun is hot some +shade improvised. Such things as _delphiniums_, _phloxes_, _campanulas_, +and quick-growing subjects in general, should not be left too long without +being divided, or the flowers will dwindle, and the plants become +straggling in habit. + +A good many plants which might be propagated by =division= of the roots +are propagated instead by cuttings, as the flowers come finer in every +way, and of course this method suits many plants which cannot be divided. +Chrysanthemums present few difficulties; though the ultimate growth of +this Japanese plant entails a vast amount of labour (if prizes are the +object in view), yet cuttings from them are the easiest things possible to +strike, even easier than a geranium, as there is no damping off. =Cuttings +are generally struck under glass=, this method being the surest, even with +hardy plants. The shoots selected should be well ripened, and the cut made +squarely below a joint and be =taken with a "heel"= if possible, that is, +with a piece of the old wood attached. All but the topmost leaves should +be pinched off, and then the cuttings must be inserted round the sides of +the pot, and the soil well pressed down,--the best cuttings in the world +cannot make roots unless this be attended to. After that a good watering +should be given them, and the pots set in a shady place till they have +emitted roots, which may be known by the fact of their beginning to make +new leaves. Some cuttings root better when the cut is allowed to form a +"callus," which in warm weather only takes a few hours. + +=Rose cuttings= root very well out of doors on a north border, and trees +produced in this manner are often very satisfactory, but they take a long +while to come to a flowering stage, somewhat trying the patience of ardent +amateurs. + +One can gradually get quite a nice collection of interesting plants, by +striking all the likely shoots in the different bunches of flowers +received from friends, but it is generally best to identify them as soon +as possible, so as to give each the right treatment. + +=Propagation by seed= is quite a fascinating employment, and is a +successful method, if pains are taken; though so many amateurs seem to +fail. I have found it the safest plan, with all except the largest seeds, +to bring them up under glass. Even the hardiest can be treated in this +way, and one feels so much more sure of the result. For one thing, birds +cannot get at them, therefore there is no need to make a network of black +cotton to keep them off; neither can the cat meddle with them, and we all +know pussy is a very bad gardener. + +=The pans= specially sold for the purpose are the best, but pots will do +very well. Fill them with fine moist soil, and press firmly down; then +scatter the seed thinly on the top, and only cover with a slight layer of +soil, afterwards placing in a dark corner. Where the seed is very small, +do not cover with any mould at all, but, as an extra protection, place a +piece of cardboard over the top of the pot, so that they shall not be +blown away. =Seeds like a still atmosphere=, moisture, warmth, and +darkness. Seeds and seedlings must not be watered in the ordinary way, but +the pan containing them should be placed in a saucer of water, when enough +moisture will be drawn up by capillary attraction. Thinning is extremely +necessary; every plant must be given room to attain its full dimensions; +where this is not done, the result is most unsatisfactory. As regards the +=time for sowing=, of course, spring is the most usual, but in the case of +annuals it will often be found a good plan to sow a few in autumn, as, by +pursuing this method, nice stocky little plants are ready for the garden +quite early in the season, and give flowers long before spring-sown seed +could possibly do so. + +=Propagation by layering= is very useful, as cuttings of some plants will +not strike readily. Strong shoots are denuded of their leaves for a few +inches, and their stems slit up and pressed into the ground by means of a +peg; when firmly rooted, they can be detached from the parent plant by +means of a penknife. Carnations are generally reproduced in this way, as +it is the surest method of all. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +The Management of Room Plants + + _Best kinds for "roughing" it--Importance of cleanliness--The proper + way of watering them._ + + +The majority of English women like to see their rooms, and specially their +drawing-rooms, adorned with =growing plants=. + +Nevertheless, a great many do not cultivate them successfully, so a few +hints will not be amiss. =Constant attention= is needed to keep plants in +perfect health, and this is exactly what is so often denied them. A lady +buys two or three ferns that take her fancy, and feels for a while quite +interested in their welfare; but, after a week or so, she leaves them to +take care of themselves, which means to dwindle, and ultimately die. Many +shillings, therefore, are constantly being spent in renewing plants which, +with proper care, should last for years. + +All room plants =must be looked after daily=, a few minutes every morning +being far better than an hour once a week, which is all they receive in +some homes. + +I will treat first of =palms=, which, though such slow-growing subjects, +seem the favourite of all for home decoration, owing to their grace of +form and good lasting properties. If you observe the roots of most palms, +you will see that, attached in an odd way to the rising stem is =a sort of +bulb=, not unlike a pigmy potato. This excrescence, which should only be +covered by a thin layer of soil, stores up nutriment for the plant's use, +in much the same way as a hyacinth or daffodil does. This accounts in a +great measure for its power in enduring dryness of the soil without +flagging, which property, however, should not be abused. Palms should be +watered as regularly, though not so often, as more sappy plants. + +=THE CORRECT WAY TO WATER.= Numbers of people do not know how to give +water in the correct way, whereby the florist prospers! =The golden rule= +is never to water a plant until it requires it, and then to do it +thoroughly. It is fatal merely to moisten the top of the soil, and to +leave the deeper roots dry. First give =a sharp tap to the pot=; if it +rings, water is required; if, on the contrary, a dull sound is given out, +the soil is wet enough. Lifting a pot is a sure test too, as one's hand +soon becomes accustomed to the difference in weight of a moist and dry +pot; the former, of course, being so much heavier. Always see that the +water runs through the hole at the bottom of the pot, then you may be sure +that each particle of soil is wet, and not till then. If you possibly can, +it is best to =use water of a corresponding temperature to that of the +room they are in=; this is most important with delicate plants. Large, +shiny, horizontal-leaved plants require a weekly sponging to remove the +inevitable dust which settles on them. =Gloves should be worn= while this +is being done, as contact with the skin turns the edges of the leaves +yellow; also gloves, of course, help to keep the hands soft and white. +Plants with large leaves should never be watered overhead, unless +immediately wiped dry, as each drop allowed to stand on the leaf turns +yellow, rots, and finally quite spoils the leaf, so that it has to be +removed. Palms will stand gas fairly well, but not so well as +_aspidistras_. + +=THE BEST PLANTS FOR DARK CORNERS.= An _aspidistra_ (please note spelling) +is =the best plant there is for roughing it=. The long, thick, dark leaves +seem to stand draughts, gas, dark corners, poor soil, and general neglect +almost with impunity. But here again watering overhead is fatal, as +regards the appearance of these plants. + +The =leaves should be washed once a week=, but I will just say here that +where one is in a hurry, and cannot wait to get a sponge and water, a good +polish with a duster is not at all a bad substitute. + +There are disputes occasionally as to whether _aspidistras_ ever flower. +Of course, it is an undoubted fact that they do, and I can give a decided +affirmative to any who may question it. My plants flower regularly every +spring, but, as these blooms are a dull, greenish-purple in colour, and +only sit, as it were, on the top of the soil, they are naturally +overlooked. + +The modesty of the violet is nowhere when compared with the _aspidistra_! + +=Aralias are good room plants=, for they have a bold and handsome form, +and glossy, bright green foliage, very like that of a fig. They do not +stand gas well, however, but, as so many houses are lighted by +electricity, this is less of a drawback than was formerly the case. If not +regularly watered, too, they have a habit of dropping their leaves; +otherwise they are of easy culture. As they grow taller, the lower leaves, +even on a healthy plant, generally drop off. + +=LEGGY PLANTS.= It is a good way, when these and kindred plants become +"leggy," to improve their appearance by cutting off the old root, and +making them root higher up the stem. Where the plant is valuable, it is +best to be sure of new roots before throwing away the old, but, as a rule, +_aralias_ have so many joints that they may easily be induced to strike by +just pressing the stem firmly into the soil, then putting the pot in some +dark place, and keeping the soil rather dry, though the foliage must be +kept moist. =To be quite sure of success=, however, it is best to treat +them in the following manner:--Choose a handful of soil with a little loam +in it, and, wetting the stem slightly, press the soil round two or three +of the joints, and bind closely with some raffia or bass, being very +careful to keep the soil always moist, or the plant will fail to make +roots. Some people enclose this part of the stem in two halves of a small +flower-pot, which is a good plan, if the stem will bear the weight, as it +preserves a more even temperature. + +=The hare's-foot fern=--_Davallia canariensis_--with its beautiful +blue-green fronds, much divided and elegantly arched, makes the loveliest +room plant imaginable, and, though fairly common, is =not often seen in a +good state of health=. I have found that, on first buying a pot of this +fern, the leaves almost invariably turn rusty and drop off, so that, as +the new fronds sometimes do not appear for some while, an amateur might +really be pardoned for _imagining the plant dead_. This is not so; the +hare's-foot merely resents the change of atmosphere (it has probably been +in a moist green-house), and, like most of us, takes time to settle down. +Once it has acclimatised itself, there is no better plant to be had for +the purpose. It is so essentially decorative that no one can fail to +admire it. Firm potting is important in growing the =davallia=, and it +does not seem so partial to water as most of the fern tribe. It will also +stand gas pretty well, if not shut up for the night in an atmosphere +charged with it, and this is the case with many room plants; they +=strongly object to being left to spend the night in the impure air=, +though a few hours each evening will not do them much harm. The plan of +taking them out at bed-time also prevents so much dust accumulating on +their leaves, an inevitable drawback where a room is thoroughly swept and +dusted. + +=Always endeavour to keep your plants well balanced.= In a room, it is +impossible to do this, without constantly turning the pots round, so that +all parts may get the light. In summer, this has to be attended to nearly +every day, but in winter less often, as the sun is, of course, much less +powerful. + +As regards =re-potting=, great care must be exercised, or more harm than +good will result. Palms will grow for years in quite small pots, and do +not thrive if over-potted. On the other hand, some plants require it +annually, but, seldom or often, unless for some special reason, +=re-potting should always be done in the spring=. From the beginning of +February until the end of May, a plant may safely be shifted on, as it is +called, because all these months comprise the growing season, when fresh +roots are emitted and new leaves being produced almost daily. See that the +pot is perfectly clean and dry, and the soil in a friable condition; it +should be composed of peat, loam and sand in equal parts; a little leaf +mould, where it is for a fern proper, will be beneficial. A =potting soil= +ready prepared may be had for about a shilling a peck from any seedsman, +which saves time and trouble in mixing. Be sure to put clean crocks in at +the bottom, or the soil will become sour. Shake the pot every now and +again as you fill it up, to ensure no crevices being left; =loose potting= +has caused the death of many a fine plant. When the pot is full, press the +mould down, leaving from half an inch to an inch (according to the size) +bare of soil to the rim of the pot, to allow of watering. It is well to +put a layer, about half an inch thick, of cocoa-nut fibre on the top of +the soil, as this looks neat, and serves to show off the foliage to the +best advantage. Enough of the fibre to cover several dozen pots may be had +for threepence. Guano is good, if supplied to the plants during the warmer +months of the year. The proportions of guano to water can always be seen +on the label pasted on the outside of the tin. It is well to remember that +=guano should never be given to a plant when the soil is dry=, but always +just after it has been watered. + +=Saucers or jardinieres should be emptied= as a rule an hour after the +plants have been watered, though where ferns seem to flourish most when +allowed to stand in water, it is well to continue the practice. In very +hot weather, this is undoubtedly of benefit to many plants, but in the +winter the soil of all pot plants should err on the dry side, cold and +damp together often proving fatal. + +=GOOD FOR TWO-THIRDS OF THE YEAR.= There are some first-rate plants which +refuse to look well for the coldest part of the year (unless one is +possessed of an hot-house), but which are really =capital for brightening +our rooms= for at least eight months in the twelve. Of these, the +_asparagus_ "fern" is perhaps the most useful. It is a lovely and graceful +plant, which bears cutting, and it lasts so long, both in and out of +water. Being, however, in reality a stove plant, amateurs who have no +warmed green-house must not expect to keep it in thoroughly good health +during the winter, but so soon as the spring appears, new green stems will +shoot up in all directions, and the old fronds will soon be replaced by +bright green feathery plumes of infinite grace. + +=Pteris wimsetti= is a charming room plant. + +=Young eucalyptus plants= are also very pretty for decorating a room, and +are supposed to be good as a disinfectant. Their habit of growth is +uncommon, and very charming to watch, as they quickly reach to an +effective size, and make large handsome plants to set in the corners of +reception rooms. It is best to bring them up by seed, which should be sown +in February or March. =Spring is the best time to buy room-plants.= + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +Various Hints + + _Artificial manures--Labelling--Cutting off dead flowers--Buying + plants--Tidiness in the garden, etc._ + + +With far the larger half of our population =the question of cost= comes +into everything. There are so many claims on our purses, that the money +spent on recreations can only be a small part; moreover, is always liable +to be drawn on at any moment. Somehow, the money laid out on a garden +always seems to be grudged, especially when it is for such things as +manure, so that if that item can be reduced, so much the better. + +=A "WRINKLE."= One good way of buying it, is to get the boys who sweep the +roads to bring the contents of their cart to your garden instead of taking +it away. Quite a lot can be purchased for sixpence or so, and the mixture +is even more beneficial to some plants than the loads bought from the +contractor. When the neat little heaps are swept up at the roadside, +anyone may take it away. Householders can employ their own errand-boys to +do so, no charge being made whatever. + +=Guano and artificial manures= in general are very stimulating, and must +only be given to plants in bud, or at all events full-growth. Sickly +plants or those at rest must never have it. =Soapsuds= form a mild +stimulant for rose-trees in summer, but these things do not come in place +of the manure with which the soil must be dressed in autumn; they are only +additions. + +=LABELLING.= There has been much controversy over the labelling of plants; +it must be done very delicately, or the appearance of the garden is +spoilt; the word label usually presupposes a name to be written thereon, +but, in reality, =just a mark to show where a plant is=, often seems all +that is necessary, and this is very important indeed with plants which die +right down every winter. The most unobtrusive tallies must be used, and +they should be of zinc, or they will inevitably get lost. The wooden ones +are all right in the greenhouse, but no good at all outside. For +rose-trees, names are required, and =the "acme" labels are much the best= +ever invented for these, and have now been in use by all rosarians for +years; they can be had at Cant's Rose Nurseries, Colchester, for about 1s. +3d. a dozen, post paid. + +=If we would keep plants in good health=, all dead flowers must be cut off +regularly; this is specially important in the case of sweet peas, pansies, +and other free-flowering plants, which become poor, and soon leave off +blossoming altogether, if allowed to form seed-pods. It is =a good plan= +to go round every morning with a basket and scissors, and snip off all +faded blooms, as, when several days elapse, the work becomes long and +irksome. + +=As regards buying plants=, this comes somewhat expensive, until a little +knowledge and experience has been gained. After a while, the different +plants are known by sight, and one is able to see directly whether a +flower or shrub is well grown and of good colour. Then, instead of +ordering everything at the large nurseries, one can often pick up, in +one's wanderings, very =good things at small cost=. Until that is the +case, it is wiser to order from some reliable firm who is sure to send out +everything true to name. People who go in for gardening, should always be +ready to learn; there are so many points which cannot be acquired all at +once. One can often gain a "wrinkle" if one keeps one's eyes open, as the +saying is. Constant visits should be made to Kew, Hampton Court, or any +other well-kept public garden, if at all within reach. A stroll round a +neighbour's garden, too, will often give one new ideas, and the +interchange of opinions does a deal of good. A magazine keeps up one's +interest wonderfully, and there are many specially published for amateurs. +One must not be surprised that the advice often seems contradictory. =The +right way of growing a plant is the way that succeeds=, and experience +shows how varied may be the means by which success is attained. I should +like here to warn my readers that before launching out into any great +expense, they first come to a full understanding as to what they will or +will not be able to take away. Greenhouses can be put up as =tenants' +fixtures=, but a very slight difference in the manner of placing them may +result in a good deal of unpleasantness with the landlord, and it is the +same with rose-trees, and other shrubs and plants. Where a shrub has +attained to goodly proportions, it is really the best way to let it +remain, even though the associations connected with it may be pleasant, as +transplanting would probably mean death, in which case neither party would +have gained anything. Of course, in the nature of things, a lover of +gardening is loth to move at all, a rolling stone is not at all in his +line. + +=Tidiness is most important in a small garden=, especially in the winter +time; plants may be allowed to get rampant in summer, but in the cold +weather, this wildness tends to make it look miserable. One sometimes sees +the brown, mildewed stalks of sunflowers and other tall plants, left on +right into December, even in a front garden, and it =gives such a deserted +look= to the place, that one longs to "have at them" there and then with a +knife. It is the same way with autumn leaves; in woods they look +beautiful, as they flutter down and make a rich, rustling carpet for our +feet, but, somehow, in the garden the beauty seems gone, and it is +generally the best plan to sweep them away as soon as possible into some +corner, where they can be left to turn into leaf mould. Of course there is +a certain beautiful freedom which is very desirable in a garden, and +which no one could call untidiness. What looks lovelier, for instance, +than the jasmine, with its long sprays hanging down over the window, or +the break made in a straight-edged path by some luxurious patch of thrift +or forget-me-not? these are only fascinating irregularities! + +=Winter need not be a time for idleness=; it must be spent in getting +ready for the spring. Tools should be overhauled thoroughly, and new +supplies of sticks and labels prepared. Plans, too, should be made for +filling each different bed, so that when the warm days arrive, and one +scarcely knows what to be at first, everything may be in train. + +The faculty of looking ahead must needs be used, if we wish to succeed. I +often think that =living in anticipation constitutes a great part of the +charm of gardening=. When sowing the seed, have we not bright visions of +the time when that self-same seed will bear most exquisite blossoms? When +pruning our rose trees, dreams of what they will become lend added +interest to our occupations, and, indeed, this quality of imagination +turns arduous work into a veritable labour of love, so that its devotees +always aver it is the most delightful recreation in the world. + + + + +JANUARY. + + +_Average Temperature 37._ + +In frosty weather wheel manure on to ground. + +See that every plant which is not quite hardy is well protected from +frost. + +Shake off any snow which may be lying on the branches of fir trees, etc. + +In mild weather digging may be done. + +If it has not already been done cut back all deciduous trees, such as +chestnuts, limes and sycamores. + +Prune all except the tender fruit trees, cutting back weak shoots hard, +and strong ones little. + +Sow early peas on a warm border. + +Do not transplant this month. + +Start covering rhubarb with pots or boxes for forcing, and surround them +with manure. + +Paths may be relaid with gravel. + +The erection of arches, trellis work, or any alteration of this sort may +be attended to. + +Keep all plants under glass clear of decaying leaves and anything likely +to cause mouldiness. + +Raise temperature of greenhouses as the days become lighter. + + +FEBRUARY. + +_Average Temperature 39._ + +Begin sowing hardy annuals outside in a sheltered position. + +Refrain from pruning rose-trees, or they will suffer later on. + +New lawns can be made now, though Autumn is the best time. + +See that all trees are securely staked and shoots of wall climbers well +nailed in before the winds of March come. + +Prune remaining fruit trees. + +Seeds of broad beans, peas, carrots, onions, beetroot, parsley, lettuce, +etc., can now be sown, though the largest sowing should be made next +month. + +Plants under glass must have more air and more water as they begin to grow +quickly. + +Ventilate carefully and close all the houses before sunset. + +Give manure to fruit trees. + +Look over fuchsias, dahlias, etc.; cut back and place in gentle warmth. + + +MARCH. + +_Average Temperature 41._ + +Hardy perennials may be planted. + +Prune hardy rose trees. + +Sow the bulk of flowering annuals. + +Cut back ivy during last week. + +Free the lawn of plantains and sow grass-seed on bare patches. + +Renew or fill up box edgings. + +Hoe beds and borders frequently to keep down weeds. + +Rose trees may be planted, though Autumn is the best time. + +See that bedding plants in frames have plenty of water. + +Clear out all dead plants and give a general tidy-up to the greenhouse. + +Give plenty of air from top-lights to glasshouses. + +Plant out Jerusalem artichokes. + +Sow seeds of vegetables of all kinds. + +Pick up gravel paths, and give another layer if necessary. + +Protect anything newly planted from rough winds. + +Mulch bush fruit trees. + + +APRIL. + +_Average Temperature 46._ + +Make last sowing of annuals and thin out those appearing above ground. + +Fill up gaps in the flower border. + +Plant out dahlias. + +Prune tea-roses during first week. + +If rather dry weather ensues keep rockery and all Spring-flowering plants +well-watered. + +Beds must be prepared for the tender plants put out next month by turning +the soil well over and thus pulverizing it. + +Protect tender fruit trees from late frosts. + +Sow seeds of vegetables for succession. + +If the weather is hot, shading can be put on greenhouses. + +Bedding plants must be gradually hardened off by giving plenty of air. + +Mow and roll lawn frequently. + +Plant out potato tubers. + +Edgings can be planted or filled up. + + +MAY. + +_Average Temperature 53._ + +Keep a sharp look-out for insects. + +Commence bedding out this month and continue all through, reserving tender +things such as coleus till the last. + +Hoe well between annuals and keep them well watered. + +Carefully train the various climbers or they will grow into an +inextricable mass. + +Fill vases and baskets. + +Clip evergreen hedges as this makes them break out at the bottom. + +Put some strawy manure between the rows of strawberries and keep well +watered. + +Sow vegetable seeds for succession. + +Plant out gourds, marrows, etc. + +If the weather is hot keep everything well watered. + +Transplant violets to their cool Summer quarters. + +Syringe frequently under glass. + + +JUNE. + +_Average Temperature 59._ + +If the garden is not altogether dependent on bedding plants it ought to be +looking its freshest and best. + +See that everything has enough water. + +Continue to thin out flowering annuals as they increase in size. + +Carefully stake larkspurs, carnations, etc. + +If the leaves of Spring bulbs have turned quite yellow, cut them off, but +not before. + +Give copious supplies of water to all wall plants as a slight shower of +rain scarcely touches them. + +Give occasional doses of manure to rose trees, and pick off all faded +flowers. + +Water rockeries. + +Stake runner beans. + +Sow late broccoli. + +Sow more lettuce. + +Water peaches, apricots, etc., copiously. + +Mulch all fruit trees. + +Protect cherries from birds. + +Draw earth up round potatoes. + +Water marrows well and often with liquid manure. + +Early this month plant out tomatoes on a south or west wall. + +Keep greenhouses well ventilated both day and night. + +Harden off azaleas before being set outside next month. + +Most plants under glass will want watering twice a day or they must stand +in a saucer of water. + + +JULY. + +_Average Temperature 62._ + +Look out for rose suckers and cut them off. + +Syringe rose trees. + +Mulch those going out of flower to induce them to make fresh buds. + +Keep faded flowers picked off. + +Commence propagating carnations. + +Take note of gaps in the flower beds and fill up from the nursery garden. + +Place azaleas, heaths, etc., outside in a shady place to rest awhile. + +Pansies which are blooming well on cool borders should have weak solutions +of guano water afforded them. + +Cut down faded spikes of larkspur and mulch and water well. + +This month bedding plants are valuable as July is not a good month for +herbaceous perennials. + +Stake the later runner beans. + +Plant out celery. + +Sow more turnip seed. + +Syringe both wall fruit and standards. + +Make new plantations of strawberries. + +Water lawn every day if possible. + +Thin out the superfluous wood of fig trees and shorten gross shoots on all +fruit trees. + +Keep everything well watered under glass. + +Give air all night to greenhouses. + +Tie up climbers to roof neatly and frequently syringe. + +Damp down several times daily. + + +AUGUST. + +_Average Temperature 61._ + +Take pansy cuttings. + +Stake dahlias, phloxes, etc. + +Keep soil from caking by constant hoeing. + +Take cuttings of geraniums, fuchsias, etc., and strike them out of doors. + +Give copious supplies of water to rose trees and syringe foliage often. + +Cuttings of rose trees may be inserted now on a cool border. + +Rockeries must be constantly watered. + +Disentangle shoots of climbing plants and tie back artistically. + +Water lawn daily and do not cut too low. + +Cuttings of most plants may be taken now and inserted in a shady border +with every chance of success. + +Cut down old raspberry canes to make way for the new. + +Protect fruit from wasps and other insects. + +Pinch off the tops of runner beans. + +Earth up celery and put out more young plants. + +Remove leaves which obstruct light on wall-peaches, apricots, etc. + +Syringe frequently. + +Give air day and night to greenhouses. + +Give constant supplies of liquid manure to chrysanthemums. + +Cut back climbing plants on the roof. + + +SEPTEMBER. + +_Average Temperature 57._ + +Begin planting spring bulbs. + +Continue to take cuttings of bedding plants, but insert in frames now. + +Leave off giving outside plants stimulants. + +Sow hardy annuals to flower next Spring. + +Plant out rooted layers of carnations. + +Thin dahlia shoots and give plenty of water. + +Remove rose suckers. + +Pluck apples and pears as soon as ripe, and put on dry shelves to keep. +The fruit should not touch. + +Prepare ground for new plantations. + +On hot days fruit trees can still be syringed to keep down insects. + +Plant out cabbages, sprouts, etc., from the seed bed. + +Earth up celery. + +Dig up and store potatoes. + +Towards the middle of the month remove greenhouse shading. + +Thin out climbers on roof again. + +Save for chrysanthemums guano is little needed now. + +Tender plants outside should be housed at the end of the month. + +Pot up freesias. + +Damp down less often and reduce the amount of air supplied. + +Ferns which were not repotted in the Spring can be done now. + + +OCTOBER. + +_Average Temperature 50._ + +Plant Spring bulbs and the madonna lily. + +Take up all bedding plants and house carefully. + +Fill the beds with polyanthus, wallflower, forget-me-not and other early +flowers. + +This is a good month for planting most things. + +Begin putting in shrubs. + +Thin out annuals sown last month. + +Cut back climbing plants. + +Keep hardy chrysanthemums well staked. + +Alterations can now proceed. + +Continue to pick pears and apples, and go over them daily to pick out +mouldy ones. + +Commence planting fruit trees. + +Raspberry plantations should now be made. + +Mulch strawberry beds after forking lightly between the rows. + +Sow early peas in sheltered situations. + +Store potatoes, carrots, parsnips, etc. + +Give liquid manure to chrysanthemums under glass. + +Ventilate carefully and do not damp down. + +Bring September planted bulbs to the light as soon as they appear above +ground. + + +NOVEMBER. + +_Average Temperature 43._ + +Plant rose trees. + +Mulch every rose tree in the garden. + +Continue planting hardy perennials. + +Cut down all dead stalks of dahlias, sunflowers, phloxes, etc. + +Finish planting bulbs. + +Roll lawn frequently. + +New ones can now be made. + +Continually tidy up the garden. + +Finish planting shrubs. + +Protect fig-trees by mulching and cut back some of the over-luxuriant +shoots. + +Plant fruit trees of all kinds. + +Trench ground not in use that the rain and frost may sweeten it. + +Prune currants and gooseberries. + +Hoe frequently between rows of cauliflower and cabbage. + +Celery must be earthed up higher. + +Any alterations that may be in hand should be completed this month. + +See that oil-lamp and other heating apparatus is in good order. + +Look over cuttings of geraniums, etc., and remove all decayed leaves, +which should be burnt. + +Ventilate all glass houses much less, especially during fogs. + + +DECEMBER. + +_Average Temperature 39._ + +Give a final glance to tender plants to see that they are well protected. + +Cut down faded stalks of hardy chrysanthemums. + +Place hand-lights over Christmas roses. + +This is a good time for writing new labels, preparing stakes, and making +plans for the following summer. + +Roll gravel walks, and if mossy sprinkle with salt. + +Planting of fruit trees may continue if the weather be mild. + +Thin out gross wood to allow the air to circulate. + +Wheel manure on to the ground in frosty weather. + +Prepare vegetable seeds for sowing, by separating them from the husk, +drying, labelling and sorting them. + +Earth up greens of all kinds with the hoe. + +In glasshouses avoid too much moisture at this dead season of the year. + +Only ventilate in mild, calm weather. + +Keep everything scrupulously clean. + +Give as much light as possible to growing things. + +Plants at rest should be kept dark. + + + + +INDEX + + + Aspect, Influence of, on plants, 67 + + + Conservatory, the-- + Cactus plants for, 26 + Hanging plants in, 26 + How to stage, 25 + Plants suitable for hanging baskets, 26 + + + Enemies of the garden-- + Earwigs, to get rid of, 45 + Mice, to get rid of, 45 + Slugs, to get rid of, 44 + Wireworms, to get rid of, 45 + + + Flowers-- + Annuals, 76 + Biennials, 78 + Colours for day and evening use, 84 + Natural and forced procurable each month, 86 + To pack for post, 84 + + Fruit, want of flavour in, 72 + + + Gardens, small-- + Be original in planting, 17 + Beds and bedding, hints for, 14 + Border soil for, 16 + Breaking up the straight appearance of, 11 + Description of a small and lovely garden, 17 + Duty of making experiments in, 17 + Eye for colour needed in, 15 + Fruit for, 70 + General arrangement of, 9 + How not to plant, 12 + Lawns, to keep in order, 13 + Little things that tell in, 12 + Making the most of land, 15 + Ornamental and useful, 73 + Paths of, to keep in order, 14 + Stone fruit for, 71 + The Dell at Chertsey, 18 + To begin well, 9 + Walks, the, 10 + + Gardening Hints-- + Art of buying plants, the, 98 + Cut off dead flowers, 98 + Labelling, 97 + Manures, 97 + Tidiness, 99 + + Glossary of terms used by Gardeners, 7 + + Greenhouses-- + Advantages of, over conservatories, 27 + Artificial heat for, 27 + Climbers in, 26 + Houseleeks, 54 + Storing plants in, 28 + The joys of, 10 + To manage, 26 + + + Lopping one's neighbour's trees. A vexed question, 11 + + + Monthly Hints for Gardeners-- + January, 101 + February, 102 + March, 103 + April, 104 + May, 105 + June, 106 + July, 107 + August, 108 + September, 109 + October, 110 + November, 111 + December, 112 + + + Planting, the art of, 66 + + Plants that are neglected but handsome-- + Asters, 20 + Campanulas, 21 + Cape Gooseberry, 23 + Christmas roses, 22 + Columbines, 20 + Coreopsis grandiflora, 21 + Delphiniums (larkspurs), 21 + Erigerons, 22 + Funkias, 22 + Heuchera sanguinea, 22 + Jacob's ladder, 23 + Lobelia fulgens, 22 + Lychnis Chalcedonica, 22 + Penstemons, 22 + Pink flowered anemone japonica, 20 + Potentillas, 23 + Saxifrages, 23 + Tradescantias & Trollius, 24 + Violas, 24 + + Propagation of plants. + By careful division, 88 + By layering, 90 + By cuttings, 89 + By seed, 89 + + + Room Plants-- + When to buy, 96 + Correct way of watering, 92 + For dark corners, 92 + Good for two-thirds of the year, 96 + Hare's-foot ferns, 94 + To keep them well balanced, 94 + Leggy plants and what to do for, 93 + Management of, 91 + Palms, 91 + + Rockery, The-- + Apennine gems for, 48 + Bulbs for, 56 + Hints for the construction of, 47 + Rock roses, 50 + Suitable plants for, 48 + + Roses-- + Bush roses of H.P. type, 38 + Climbers for cool walls, 37 + Dwarf teas, 41 + Good climbers for warm walls, 36 + Hedges of, 41 + Pillar, 40 + Pruning, 38, 43 + Tea, 35 + Time to plant, 43 + + + Shelter for plants, 67 + + Shrubs-- + Ceanothus, The delicate, 64 + Good all round, 62 + Lilacs grafted, 64 + St. John's Wort, 59 + Winter shrubbery, 64 + + Summer-houses-- + Fragrant odours for, 33 + How to cover, 32 + Position of, 34 + + + Table, Decoration-- + Hints on, 83 + Maidenhair, To make it last, 84 + Simplicity in, 85 + Stem-splitting, 83 + + Time for everything in gardening, A 69 + + Tool-sheds, Well stocked, 29 + + Trees-- + Bank under, 60 + Good plants for growing beneath, 58 + + + Vegetables for small gardens, 73 + + + Window Boxes-- + Flowers for cold aspects, 81 + Flowers for warm aspects, 82 + How to make, 79 + Pretty trailers for, 82 + Showy flowers for winter, 80 + + + + +[Sidenote: Garden Seeds and Bulbs] + +AMATEUR GARDENERS and others should apply for our CATALOGUE before +ordering elsewhere. + + A. C. TAYLOR, Ltd., + Seedsmen and Bulb Importers, + 28, ELECTRIC AVENUE, + BRIXTON, LONDON, S.W. + + The Choicest BULBS AND SEEDS at moderate prices. + Catalogues gratis (issued in January and August). + + +[Sidenote: Fencing] + + BAYLISS. JONES & BAYLISS + WOLVERHAMPTON. + LONDON SHOW ROOMS:-- + 139-141 CANNON ST E.C. + + CATALOGUES FREE + + MAKERS OF ALL KINDS OF IRON & WIRE FENCING, RAILING, ETC. + + +GALVd. WIRE NETTING. + +Averages 20 per cent. Cheaper than Ordinary. + +Lists free. + +IRON BARROWS. + +GATES. + +_Low Prices._ + +TREE GUARDS. + +IRON AND WIRE ESPALIER, &c. + + + + +AMUSING AND USEFUL BOOKS + + +THE CONFESSIONS OF A POACHER + +By J. CONNELL. With Illustrations by F. T. DADD. Crown 8vo. Price 3s. 6d. + + These confessions are unique as being the actual experiences of a + living poacher. 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Put a third ball in +a line with a pocket and the two other balls as in diagram. + +[Illustration] + +Play a hard shot with the ball on the table into the pocket through the +matchboxes, which should fly off the table, and the two balls will occupy +the places where the matchboxes stood. + +The above is an example of one of the seventy-five tricks contained in the +book. + +"To say that no billiard-room should be without this joyous and ingenious +little volume is nothing: there is no player, amateur or professional, who +would not get his moneysworth out of it."--_Sportsman._ + + +THIRD LARGE EDITION + +Besieged with Baden-Powell + +A Complete Record of the Siege of Mafeking + +By J. 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Arthur Pearson, Henrietta Street, W.C. + + + + +[Sidenote: Lawn Mowers.] + + RANSOMES' LAWN MOWERS. + THE BEST IN THE WORLD. + _Improvements possessed by no other Maker's Machines:--_ + + New Patent Double Angle Cutters. + New Patent Ribbed Driving Rollers. + New Patent Adjustable Front Rollers. + +[Illustration] + +All Mowers sent on a Month's Trial Carriage Paid. + +RANSOMES' "PATENT" AUTOMATON, WITH CHAIN OR WHEEL GEARING. + +The "Patent" Automaton Lawn Mowers are without a rival in design, +mechanical construction, excellence of materials, workmanship, finish, +durability, and lightness of draught. By close and frequent cutting these +machines will produce a rich velvety surface. The knives are driven by +accurate machine-made gearing, which works very smoothly and quietly, and +is completely covered to exclude dirt. =Made in Nine Sizes, 8 in. to 24 +in. wide.= + +RANSOMES' "ANGLO-PARIS" MOWERS. THE BEST LIGHT MACHINES. + +The "Anglo-Paris" Lawn Mowers are suitable for small Gardens, and for +Ladies' and Amateurs' use; have perfect adjustment, and can be used with +or without a Grass Box. =Made in Eight Sizes, 6 in. to 20 in. wide.= + +RANSOMES' "LION" MOWERS. THE BEST CHEAP MACHINES. + +Introduced to meet the demand for a very low-priced Machine of reliable +English workmanship. =9 in., 11 in., 13 in., and 15 in.= + +RANSOMES' "HORSE & PONY MOWERS." 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The Effect is Marvellous. + +The ONE MINUTE Cure For Headache, Neuralgia, Toothache, Neuralgia of the +Ear. This simple and perfectly harmless remedy has cured instantaneously +thousands suffering from the above complaints. Of all Chemists and Stores, +prices =2/9= & =4/6= per bottle. Sent post paid to any part of the United +Kingdom on receipt of price. Or of the Proprietors, =B. & G. ALKAN=, +_General Depot_, 150, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. + + +[Sidenote: Vegetable and Flower Seeds] + + SHILLING'S SEEDS ARE THE BEST FOR AMATEURS & GARDENERS + Because they produce the finest Flowers and Vegetables. + + CATALOGUE SENT GRATIS AND POST FREE. + + C. R. SHILLING, Seedsman, + WINCHFIELD, HANTS. + + + + +[Illustration: "Ill Weeds Grow Apace." Root them out!] + +A PRESENT PRECAUTION MAY SAVE YOU GREAT FUTURE TROUBLE. + +Work in the Garden is Pleasant Work, But it is Hard Work, and every +invention to lessen labour is an advantage! + +WITH THE "GNU" + +WEEDING FORK + +[Illustration] + +FLOWER BEDS, &c. may be kept in perfect order with a minimum of Labour. + +The Prongs being very close together it loosens the soil and removes weeds +better and quicker than by hand. + +No Stooping or Soiled Hands. + +Price complete, with 3ft. handle, =1/3 each.= + + +DAISY FORK + +[Illustration] + +Such unsightly WEEDS as DAISIES and PLANTAINS can be COMPLETELY REMOVED +from LAWNS, TENNIS COURTS, &c., QUICKER and BETTER than by any other +method. + +Having 3 prongs, close together, and a strong lever, the ENTIRE Root is +removed without exertion or without disturbing the surrounding grass. + +Price complete with 3ft handle, =1/6 each.= + +Manufactured solely by J. LYTLE, 3 BARTON ROAD, WALTON, LIVERPOOL. + + + + +Transcriber's Notes: + +Passages in italics are indicated by _italics_. + +Passages in bold are indicated by =bold=. + +Punctuation has been corrected without note. + +Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been retained from the +original. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Small Gardens, by Violet Purton Biddle + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SMALL GARDENS *** + +***** This file should be named 33323.txt or 33323.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/3/2/33323/ + +Produced by David Clarke and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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