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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, In the Border Country, by W. S. (William
+Shillinglaw) Crockett, Illustrated by James Orrock
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: In the Border Country
+
+
+Author: W. S. (William Shillinglaw) Crockett
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 17, 2010  [eBook #31678]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE BORDER COUNTRY***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Peter Vickers, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this file
+      which includes the original illustrations in color.
+      See 31678-h.htm or 31678-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31678/31678-h/31678-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31678/31678-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+IN THE BORDER COUNTRY
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+POPULAR BOOKS ON ART.
+
+Edited by W. Shaw Sparrow
+
+THE ART AND LIFE LIBRARY. 1. "THE BRITISH HOME OF TO-DAY" (_out of
+print_). 2. "THE GOSPELS IN ART." 3. "WOMEN PAINTERS OF THE WORLD." 4.
+"THE OLD TESTAMENT IN ART," Vol. I. 5. "THE MODERN HOME" (_out of
+print_). 6. "THE OLD TESTAMENT IN ART," Vol. II. 7. "THE APOSTLES IN
+ART."
+
+HISTORY, TRAVEL, RUSTIC LIFE. 1. "MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS," with 26 Pictures
+in Colour by Sir James Linton, R.I., and James Orrock, R.I.; the text by
+Walter Wood. 2. "IN THE BORDER COUNTRY," with 25 Pictures in Colour by
+James Orrock, R.I., and Historical Notes by W. S. Crockett. 3. "IN
+RUSTIC ENGLAND," with 25 Pictures in Colour by Birket Foster; the text
+by A. B. Daryll.
+
+THE ART AND LIFE MONOGRAPHS. 1. "ETCHINGS BY VAN DYCK," in Rembrandt
+Photogravure the full size of the Original Proofs. Also an Édition de
+Luxe with Carbon Print Photographs of all the Etchings; the text by
+Prof. Dr. H. W. Singer. 2. "INGRES--MASTER OF PURE DRAUGHTSMANSHIP."
+Twenty-four Rembrandt Photogravures of important Drawings and Pictures;
+the introductions by Arsène Alexandre and W. Shaw Sparrow.
+
+ARTISTS OF THE PRESENT DAY. I. "FRANK BRANGWYN, A.R.A." the
+introductions by Léonce Bénédite and W. Shaw Sparrow. 2. "LUCY E.
+KEMP-WELCH," the introductions by Professor Hubert von Herkomer and
+Edward F. Strange.
+
+SERIES OF BIBLE PICTURES. "THE SAVIOUR IN MODERN ART."
+
+London: Hodder & Stoughton
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration]
+
+  FRONTISPIECE
+
+  VIEW OF DUNSTANBOROUGH
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+
+
+
+IN THE BORDER COUNTRY
+
+With Pictures in Colour by
+
+JAMES ORROCK R I
+
+And Historical Notes by
+
+W. S. CROCKETT
+
+Edited by W. Shaw Sparrow
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Hodder & Stoughton
+London 1906
+
+
+
+
+  DEDICATED
+  TO THE MEMORY
+  OF
+  SIR WALTER SCOTT
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Most of us prefer to spend our holiday tours
+away from our own country. There is a
+feeling of mild adventure when the land
+we behold is unknown to us, and when the
+language we hear filters into our questioning minds
+through an interpreter's suavity and chatter. And
+if we go to Switzerland we may earn even a
+reputation for intrepid pluck among the friends
+who listen to us on our return home, while the
+unlucky guides, who found for our trembling feet
+a pathway around each danger, will amuse their
+families during the winter with little tales at our
+expense, told with rough satire and with short,
+gruff peals of laughter resembling the noise of a
+crackling ice-sheet when it begins to slip downhill.
+
+No doubt, heroism on the hillside has a vast
+attraction to brave, fearless hearts like our own;
+but we should find, here in our own country, quite
+as much adventure as is good for us, and quite as
+much novelty also, if only we could bring ourselves
+to believe that knowledge of native scenes and
+traditions does not come to us in baptism or by
+virtue of our birth as British folk. If you ask a
+friend whether he knows the Border Country, he
+will probably answer yes, and then go on to say
+that he when a lad at school was a great reader
+of Scott, and thank heaven! his memory is a good
+one. Push the matter further, ask whether he has
+verified the truth of Scott's descriptions by a visit
+to the places described, and you will probably
+hear that your friend would rather dream of the
+North Pole or be bitten fiercely by the swarms of
+lively insects treasured throughout Brittany in
+every cottage and hotel.
+
+All this being somewhat commonplace, you may
+wish to get closer to this subject, and your friend
+at last, driven to bay, comes to the real point that
+pricks and distresses him. "You see," he will
+say, "a holiday tour at home is such a dickens of a
+gamble. You can't say how much it will cost.
+The only thing at all certain about it is that the
+cost will be more than you can afford. Wherever
+you go you become a goose to be plucked."
+
+Let us rebel against this iniquity! It is not
+a question of cheating, it is a trait of the national
+character. In Great Britain, as among the Americans,
+the gift of long sight in business has become
+very common, and few persons think it worth their
+while to see the practical good things within easy
+reach of the blessed short sight of common sense.
+Our chief aim is not to keep a market open and
+steady, but to glut it with over-production or
+to block it with excessive prices. "Here is a
+holiday-tripper, so let us make him pay!" That seems
+to be the unconquerable maxim at all seaside resorts
+and in every place where tired workers seek rest
+and health. I have known a week's holiday in
+the New Forest to cost as much as a tour of three
+weeks in the beautiful and bracing Ardennes.
+The Belgian is content to draw his customers back
+to him, while the Englishman grasps all he can get
+and sends us away discontented.
+
+It is true that the railway companies are doing
+all in their power to make holidays at home welcome
+and inexpensive. Their enterprise in this respect
+has no limits. But we cannot live on cheap railway
+tickets alone, whether single or return. Something
+should be done--and the newspapers could help--to
+establish in all attractive districts a reasonable
+tariff for board and lodging. It is only thus that
+Great Britain will be made popular during the
+holiday season, and that the great stream of gold--the
+holiday-making Pactolus--will be drawn
+from the Continent to nourish our own country
+sides and rural folk.
+
+It seems to be certain that, during the reign
+of the old stage coach, life in rustic England was
+cheaper than it is to-day. At any rate we must
+account in some way or other for the immense
+number of county histories and illustrated
+topographical books which teemed from the press from
+the middle of the eighteenth century to the time
+of J. M. W. Turner. To study these works is to
+be sure that our forefathers took the greatest
+delight in their own country, and that huge sums
+of money were spent in procuring fine sketches and
+adequate engravings. Side by side with these
+books on British topography were volumes on
+foreign travel, like those by William Alexander,
+who in 1792 accompanied Lord Macartney's
+embassy to China, where he made many exquisite
+sketches, brimful of humour and playful observation.
+John Webber, R.A., in 1776, accompanied
+Captain Cook on his third and last voyage, and
+made a drawing of Cook's death, which Byrne and
+Bartolozzi engraved. Two other Royal Academicians,
+Thomas and William Daniell, made India
+their sketching-ground, and in their great work on
+"Oriental Scenery," published in 1808, they devoted
+six volumes to a subject as fascinating as it was
+unhackneyed. Many other artists, too, travelled
+and made sketches for books, ranging from Girtin's
+Paris Views to Turner's "Rivers of France," and
+from Sir David Wilkie's Eastern sketches, reproduced
+in lithography by Nash, to the familiar work of
+Prout, Harding, J. F. Lewis, R.A., and Louis Haghe.
+
+But these books on foreign travel, admirable
+as they were, did not eclipse the many volumes on
+British scenery and landscape antiquities. All
+the ablest men among the earlier water-colour
+painters--Hearne, Malton, Dayes, Girtin, Turner,
+Francia, Havell, De Wint, David Cox, Cotman--made
+topographical sketches for illustrations, and
+lucky is he who "finds" their earliest efforts.
+To-day, happily, there are signs of renewed life in
+the old taste for picture books on the beauty and
+romance of our own country. It is a taste that
+invigorates, storing the mind with tonic memories
+and filling the eyes with beautiful scenes and
+colours; and we may be sure that it needs for its
+gratification books which are easy to carry and to
+read. The great folio of other days, as heavy
+almost as a country squire, is rightly treasured in
+the British Museum, like the remains of the Neolithic
+Man discovered in Egypt.
+
+The subject of the present book--the Border
+Country--should set us thinking, not of one holiday,
+but of many; and he who has once tasted the
+Border's keen rich air will long to return both to
+it and to the traditions that dwell among the vast
+landscapes and in the ruined castles. The distinguished
+connoisseur and painter whose sketches are here
+reproduced, has gone back to the Border Country a
+dozen times and more, always to find there a renewal
+of his first pleasure and a host of fresh subjects,
+that form a delightful connecting-link between each
+to-day and the armoured epochs of the long ago.
+
+And if the Border Country, with its enchanted
+places and memories, delights a landscape-painter,
+it is equally attractive to students of architecture,
+to lovers of folk-lore and literary history, to writers
+of romance in search of traditions and local colour,
+and to those of us also who indulge a passion for
+collecting either as botanists or as geologists.
+The rivers and streams have a rare fascination,
+and anglers, having made their choice, can come
+by all the sport which they desire. As to the hills,
+they have a certain modesty of height deceptive
+to the unwary, for although they have not won for
+themselves a reputation for fatalities to be described
+as Alpine, they are yet so dangerous when a mist
+gathers about them and thickens, that a climber
+may lose his life there quite comfortably, and
+without enjoying more than the customary amount
+of rashness or inexperience. Briefly, men may
+find in the Border Country nearly all their hobbies,
+and nearly all their professional studies.
+
+In this book the historical notes are written
+by one who lives by the Tweed, and whose name
+is associated with Border subjects. Mr. Crockett's
+work is filled with the Past, while the outdoor
+sketches by Mr. Orrock are at once so faithful
+topographically, and so much in sympathy with the
+classic traditions of English Water-Colour, that
+they show us what the Border Country is to-day,
+when seen through the medium of a painter's
+observation and knowledge.
+
+W. SHAW SPARROW.
+
+
+
+
+   CONTENTS
+
+                                              Page
+
+   Title Page. By David Veazey                   3
+
+   Dedication Page                               5
+
+   Preface. By Walter Shaw Sparrow               7
+
+   Contents                                     12
+
+
+        IN THE BORDER COUNTRY
+        BY W. S. CROCKETT
+
+                                              Page
+
+   I.   Introduction                            17
+
+        The Making of the Border                23
+
+        The Christianizing of the Border        26
+
+        Border Warfare                          36
+
+   II.  The English Border: Northumberland      44
+
+        "Merrie Carlisle"                       60
+
+   III. The Tweed and Its Associations          75
+
+   IV.  "Pleasant Teviotdale"                   94
+
+   V.   In the Ballad Country                  105
+
+   VI.  The Leader Valley                      117
+
+   VII. Liddesdale                             124
+
+
+
+
+   PLATES IN COLOUR BY JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+   FRONTISPIECE.
+                                           To face
+
+   View of Dunstanborough               Title page
+
+   PLATE 2
+
+   Crag Loch and the Roman Wall                 24
+
+   PLATE 3
+
+   Bamborough from Stag Rock                    32
+
+   PLATE 4
+
+   Holy Island Castle: Harvest Time             36
+
+   PLATE 5
+
+   View of Norham Castle                        40
+
+   PLATE 6
+
+   Twizel Bridge of the XIV. Century            44
+
+   PLATE 7
+
+   Flodden Field and the Cheviot Hills          48
+
+   PLATE 8
+
+   View of Warkworth                            52
+
+   PLATE 9
+
+   View of Alnwick Castle                       56
+
+   PLATE 10
+
+   View of Prudhoe-on-Tyne                      60
+
+   PLATE 11
+
+   View of Carlisle                             64
+
+   PLATE 12
+
+   View of Naworth Castle                       68
+
+   PLATE 13
+
+   View of Lanercost Priory                     72
+
+   PLATE 14
+
+   View of Bewcastle                            76
+
+   PLATE 15
+
+   View of Melrose                              80
+
+   PLATE 16
+
+   Melrose and the Eildons from Bemersyde Hill:
+   Scott's favourite View                       84
+
+   PLATE 17
+
+   Dryburgh Abbey and Scott's Tomb              88
+
+   PLATE 18
+
+   The Remnant of Wark Castle                   92
+
+   PLATE 19
+
+   Berwick-on-Tweed                             96
+
+   PLATE 20
+
+   Hollows Tower (sometimes called Gilnockie
+   Tower)                                      100
+
+   PLATE 21
+
+   Goldilands, near Hawick                     104
+
+   PLATE 22
+
+   "He passed where Newark's stately tower
+   Looks out from Yarrow's birchen bower"      112
+
+   PLATE 23
+
+   View of New Abbey and Criffel               116
+
+   PLATE 24
+
+   Criffel and Loch Kindar                     120
+
+   PLATE 25
+
+   Caerlaverock Castle                         124
+
+
+
+
+I. INTRODUCTION
+
+
+From Berwick to the Solway as the crow flies is little more than seventy
+miles. Between these two points lies the line that divides England from
+Scotland. But to follow this line literally along its every little in
+and out means a distance of no fewer than forty good miles more.
+Stretching diagonally across the country--north-east or south-west--we
+have the river Tweed as eastmost boundary for a considerable
+space--close on twenty miles; then comes the lofty barrier of the
+Cheviots extending to thirty odd miles, constituting the middle portion
+of the Border line; and finally, the Kershope Burn, with the Liddel and
+Esk Waters, and the small stream of the Sark, make up the westmost
+division, another twenty miles, at least. But to follow the Border on
+foot, by every bend of Tweedside, and over every nick and nook of the
+Cheviots, and the remaining water-marches, means, as has been indicated,
+a walk of not less than one hundred and ten miles. Almost everywhere in
+the land portion of the Border line--the Cheviots generally--the
+boundary is such that one may stand with one foot in England and the
+other in Scotland, and the rather curious fact will be noted, says one
+who has made this Border pilgrimage _par excellence_, that Scotland
+nowhere receives a single rivulet from England, whilst she sends to
+England tiny head-streams of the Coquet and Tyne only. The delimitation
+is thus a quite natural and scientific one, coinciding pretty closely to
+the water-parting of the two countries. Upon either side of this line of
+demarcation stretches the Border Country, famous in war and verse the
+whole world over--Northumberland and Cumberland to the south-east on
+English soil, and to the north-west, Berwickshire, Roxburghshire, with
+part of Dumfriesshire, the distinctively Border counties on the Scottish
+side. A wider radius, however, has been given to the Scottish Border
+from a very early period. Old Scots Acts of Parliament, applying to the
+Border district, embrace the counties of Peebles and Selkirk within the
+term, though these nowhere touch the frontier line, and portions of
+Lanarkshire and the Lothians have been also included. But on the face of
+it, these latter lie entirely outside the true Border limit. A line
+drawn on the map from Coquetmouth to "Merrie Carlisle," thence to the
+town of Dumfries, and again, almost due north, to Tweedsmuir (the source
+of the Tweed) in Peeblesshire, and to Peebles itself, and from Peebles
+eastward by the Moorfoots and Lammermoors to the German Ocean at St.
+Abbs, will give us for all practical purposes what may be regarded as
+the Border Country in its widest signification, geographical and
+historical.
+
+There is, of course, a narrower sense in which the phrase, the Border
+Country, is used--the literary. That, however, applies almost entirely
+to the Scottish side, for neither of the English Border counties owns a
+tithe of the associations in literature and romance that belong to those
+beyond the Tweed. The extraordinary glamour which has been cast over the
+Tweed and its tributaries by the writings of Sir Walter Scott, the
+Ettrick Shepherd, John Leyden, and others, has given a prominence to the
+Scottish side which is nowhere shared by its southern neighbour. But to
+say so is no disparagement to the English side. For what it lacks in
+literature it makes up in other admirable characteristics. Both Borders
+are rich in historical memories. Their natural features are not
+dissimilar, and in commercial prosperity they are much akin. In union
+they have long been happily wedded.
+
+The Border Country is a region of streams and hills which hardly rise to
+the dignity of rivers and mountains. Unlike the Clyde, the Tweed has no
+broad estuary laden with the commerce of the world. And the highest
+summits, Broad Law (2754 feet) in Scotland, and the great Cheviot (2676
+feet) in England, have nothing in common with the rugged Highland peaks
+except their height. Both, it has been said, are monuments of denudation
+only, "lofty because they have suffered less wear than their
+neighbours."
+
+It is difficult to imagine all this attractive Border Country as at one
+period a vast ocean-bed, over which waves lashed in furious foam, and
+sea-birds shrieked and flew amid the war of waters. Yet geology assures
+us such was its condition ages ago. By-and-by, it became a great rolling
+plain or table-land, and in age after age--how many and how long it were
+vain to speculate--there was carried on that stupendous process by which
+those fair green hills and glens have been so marvellously scooped out,
+and moulded and rounded into the objects of beauty that we see about us
+now. In the great glacier movements, in the working of the ice-sheets,
+and under the influences of frost, beating rain, and a constant
+water-flow operating through a countless series of years, we have the
+scientific explanation of their present benign and comfortable-looking
+appearance. The Border hills are of a purely pastoral type, grass-grown
+from base to summit, and usually easy of ascent. Here and there one
+meets with a distinctly Highland picture--in the deep dark glens down
+Moffatdale, for instance, but in the main they exhibit "the sonsie,
+good-humoured, buirdly look," for which Dr. "Rab" Brown expressed the
+liveliest predilection. Once at the curiously plateau-like summit of
+Broadlaw (out-topped in Southern Scotland by the Galloway Merrick only)
+or Hart Fell (2651 feet), or the Cheviot, the feeling amounts to a kind
+of awe even. Scott speaks of the silence of noonday on the top of
+Minchmoor, and the acute sense of human littleness one always feels
+amidst the "mountain infinities." "I assure you," he says, "I have felt
+really oppressed with a sort of fearful loneliness when looking around
+these naked towering ridges of desolate barrenness." The picture seen
+from such a height is both an inspiring and a humbling one. Beneath, it
+is a veritable earth-ocean that we are gazing upon. On all sides an
+innumerable series of what look like huge elephant-backed ranges are
+seen to be chasing each other like waves of the sea, as it were, ridge
+after ridge, rising, flowing, falling, and passing into the one beyond
+it, as far as the eye can reach. Enclosed between each we know are the
+rushing hill-burns and broader streams by which the Border country is
+everywhere so much blessed and beautified. At such a height we are
+entirely outside the human touches--altogether alone with Nature at her
+simplest and solemnest. The cry of a startled sheep and the summer hum
+of insects on the hill-top--
+
+    "That undefined and mingled hum,
+    Voice of the desert, never dumb"--
+
+are the only indications of life where all trace and feeling of man and
+his work have disappeared. Occasionally we shall meet by chance with the
+shepherd, maybe, who has his dwelling far down among the "hopes"--the
+cul-de-sacs of the uplands. Amongst those hills he lives and moves and
+has his being. All sorts of weather-conditions find him at his work. He
+never thinks of the loneliness, and the winter storms have not the
+terrors for him as for his predecessors. In some respects his life is an
+ideal one, and his class has a goodly record for intelligence and fine
+physique. The best specimens, indeed, of the country's manhood are drawn
+from the agricultural labouring classes--the "herds" and "hinds" who
+make up the bulk of the population in the purely rural districts. For
+agriculture, it need scarcely be said, is the staple business of both
+Borders. The Tweed industry, to be sure, affords employment to
+thousands, but on the Borders, as elsewhere, the land is the crucial
+problem. Within recent years many of the rural parishes have been
+woefully depleted, and until the land question is fairly tackled there
+seems small hope for a fresh and brighter chapter in the domestic
+history of the Border Country.
+
+A hundred years have transformed the face of the Border Country in a
+marked manner. The development of agriculture, and the growth of the
+tree-planting spirit, which began to bestir itself about the beginning
+of last century, have given to the Border its modern picturesqueness and
+its look of prosperity. Sir Walter Scott himself may be said to be the
+father of arboriculture in the South of Scotland. In the creation of
+Abbotsford, forestry was his main out-of-doors hobby, and the example
+set by one who had studied the subject thoroughly, and who discoursed
+pleasantly upon it, was quickly followed by all the neighbouring lairds
+and many others besides. Not that the country was altogether treeless
+before Scott's day. Here and there "ancestral oaks" clumped themselves
+about the great castles and mansions, with perhaps some further attempt
+at embellishment. But that was rare enough. It needed a man like Scott
+to popularize the notion, and to take the lead in an undertaking
+fraught, as this age well sees, with results so beneficent. We do not
+forget, of course, that in earlier historic times practically the whole
+of the Border Country was covered with wood. Its inhabitants, whose very
+names--Gadeni and Ottadini--signified "dwellers in the wood," were found
+by the Romans in their dense forests, and the first settlements were
+only possible through clearances of growing timber. Across the country,
+from Cadzow, in Renfrewshire, to the Ettrick, there stretched the vast
+Wood of Caledon (whence Caledonia), known at a later period as the
+Forest of Ettrick, or simply as the Forest (_e.g._, the "Flowers of the
+Forest"). There is no doubt that it was largely a forest in the ordinary
+acceptation, and not a mere deer-forest use of the term. Over and over
+again we have the various charters, as to the Abbeys, for instance,
+authorising the monks to cut down for building purposes and fuel oaks
+"from the forest," both in Selkirk and in Melrose, in Kelso and the
+Ettrick. The original religious house of Melrose was entirely of oak. So
+were the first churches founded by Kentigern and Cuthbert, and those
+even of a later date. The Forest of Ettrick survived to the time of the
+Stuarts, who had here their favourite hunting expeditions, James V. and
+Queen Mary especially being frequent visitors to the Borderland. The
+Forest of Megget, or Rodono (a sub-division of that of Ettrick), yielded
+on one occasion no fewer than five hundred head of game, bird and beast
+of the chase, and at another time eighteen score of red deer. In the
+reign of Mary there was issued a proclamation limiting and prohibiting
+the slaughter of deer in the Forest on account of their growing
+scarcity. And by the time of James VI. the hunting possibilities of the
+Border were at an end.
+
+More than anything else, the laying down of the great railway lines and
+the immense road improvements of last century have opened up practically
+every corner of the Border Country. There are now no places so utterly
+inaccessible as Liddesdale was during Scott's visits. It is possible to
+reach the most out-of-the-way parts with comparative comfort. And with
+the dawn of the motor age, still greater hopes and possibilities appear
+in store.
+
+  PLATE 2
+
+  CRAG LOCH AND THE
+  ROMAN WALL
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 24, 44, 45, 71, 73_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+THE MAKING OF THE BORDER
+
+It is from the Roman historian Tacitus that the light of history falls
+for the first time on the Border Country. It is a mere glimpse, however.
+But it is enough to show us the calibre of the men who held its forests
+and fastnesses at that remote period. They were the Brigantes, a branch
+probably of the Celts, who were the first to reach Britain, coming from
+the common home-land of the Ayrian race somewhere in Central Asia. Their
+kingdom, Brigantia, embraced all the country between the Mersey and
+Humber and the Links of Forth. They are spoken of as a strong,
+courageous and warlike people, able for many years to keep the Roman
+cohorts at bay and to check the northward progress of the invaders. The
+Roman Conquest of Britain, as is well known, was begun by Julius Caesar
+as far back as B.C. 55. It was not, however, till the time of Julius
+Agricola (A.D. 78-84) that the Romans obtained a firm footing on the
+island. Agricola's generalship was more than a match for the sturdy
+Brigantes. He carried the Roman eagles to the Forth and Clyde, fixing
+his main line of defence and his northmost frontier on the isthmus
+between these two firths. But about A.D. 120, when the Emperor Hadrian
+visited Britain, his chief work was the delimitation of the Roman
+territory by the great stone wall still bearing his name, stretching
+from the Tyne to the Solway, a distance of 73-1/2 miles. Twenty years
+later, however, Lollius Urbicus, the Emperor's lieutenant in Britain,
+appears to have revived and restored Agricola's boundary, so that what
+we now know as the Border Country, for more than three hundred years
+(A.D. 78-410), formed a part of the mightiest empire of the ancient
+world. Hadrian's rampart, the great camps at Cappuck, near Jedburgh, at
+Lyne in Peeblesshire, and Newstead at the base of the Eildons--the
+undoubted Roman Trimontium--with the roads known as Watling Street
+and the Wheel Causeway are the chief memorials of a singularly historic
+Occupation. Following the withdrawal of the Roman legions the district
+became the arena of constant warfare between Picts and Scots and
+Britons, until the sixth century, when it appears again in history as a
+kingdom of the Saxon Heptarchy under the name of Bernicia, and occupied
+by a colony of Angles and Saxons from the Low Countries of the
+Continent, the progenitors of the English-speaking race. Ida the Good
+governed Bernicia, having for his capital the proud rock-fortress of
+Bibbanburgh (so named from his queen Bibba), the modern Bamborough. In
+the following century Bernicia was combined with Deira, its southern
+neighbour (corresponding to Yorkshire) to form the powerful kingdom of
+Northumbria, extending, as Brigantia had done, from the Humber to the
+Forth. For the next three or four hundred years the story of the Border
+was little more than a wild record of lawlessness and bloodshed. It had
+grown to be a kind of happy hunting-ground for every hostile tribe
+within fighting distance, and for some even who were drawn from long
+distances, like the Danes, the latest of the invading hordes. But there
+is nothing of importance to narrate at this period. From a monarchy,
+Northumbria fell to the level of an Earldom in 954, and in 1018, the
+Scots, consolidated to some extent under Malcolm II., crushed the Angles
+of Northumbria in a great victory at Carham-on-Tweed (near Coldstream),
+of which the result was the cession to Scotland of the district known as
+Lothian--the land lying between the Tweed and Forth. Thus at the dawn
+of the 11th century we have the Tweed constituting the virtual boundary
+between the two countries. Cumberland, to be sure, was for a time Scots
+territory, but this the intrepid Rufus wrested back in 1092. So that by
+the close of that century the Border line appears to have taken the
+quite natural course of delimitation--the Tweed, the Cheviots, and the
+Solway, though it was not till as late as 1222 that a commission of both
+countries was appointed to adjust the final demarcation.
+
+
+THE CHRISTIANIZING OF THE BORDER
+
+It would be interesting to know precisely when and how the light of the
+Christian faith first penetrated the Border Country, but neither the
+time nor the manner can be ascertained with certainty. Indeed, it is
+impossible to say who were the real pioneers of the Gospel within the
+realm itself. The probability is that in the first instance it was the
+beneficent work of the Romans in whose legions were to be found many
+sincere Christians, many faithful soldiers of the Cross. From the
+"saints of Cæsar's household"--not a mere picturesque dream--mayhap the
+Gospel found its way to the coasts of Britain, the greatest boon that
+could be conferred on a nation. An unvarying Peeblesshire tradition, for
+example, avers that among the first to witness for Christ and His truth
+by the banks of the Tweed and its tributaries were Roman soldiers from
+the great military station at Hall Lyne, and out of whose quiet
+fellowship-meetings in the recesses of the Manor, sprang the church of
+that valley, one of the oldest in the county, and dedicated to Saint
+Gordian, either the Emperor of that name, or what is more likely,
+"Gordian the well-beloved," Deputy of Gaul, who suffered martyrdom about
+the year 362. Be that as it may, it is at any rate certain that long
+before the departure of the Romans from Britain, Christianity had made
+considerable headway in the island. St. Ninian's is the earliest
+definite name which has come down to us, about the end of the 4th and
+beginning of the 5th century. His labours were confined chiefly to the
+Galloway side of the Border, where the remains of his Candida Casa, or
+White House, may still be seen at Whithorn on the shores of Wigtown Bay.
+It is more than possible that some of Ninian's missionaries, or a rumour
+of his work and teaching at all events, had passed beyond the Solway to
+the Clyde and Tweed watersheds. But, on the other hand, the difficulties
+following the departure of the Romans in the constant incursions from
+the Continent and the terrible internecine struggles of the time, would
+be sufficient to extinguish whatever light had faintly begun to shine.
+And it is not until well on in the 6th century that the darkness begins
+to grow less dense. Such names as Augustine, Paulinus, Columba,
+Kentigern or Mungo, Aidan and Cuthbert, come upon the scene, with each
+of whom seems to rest, as it were, the hope of the Church of Christ in
+Britain. In the year 597 Augustine arrived in Kent with forty monks in
+his train. The incident, apocryphal perhaps, which led to his mission,
+is at least interesting. The story has been told again and again, but it
+will bear repeating. Ælla, King of Deira, had defeated his northern
+neighbour, and with a portion of the spoil hastened to fill the Roman
+slave-market. Gregory the Great, in the days that preceded his
+pontificate, passed one day through the market-place when it was crowded
+with people, all attracted by the arrival of fresh cargoes of
+merchandise; and he saw three boys set for sale. They were
+white-complexioned, fair and light, and with noble heads of hair. Filled
+with compassion, he enquired of the dealer from what part of the world
+they had come, and was told "from Britain, where all the inhabitants
+have the same fair complexion." He next asked whether the people of this
+strange land were Christians or pagans, and hearing that they were
+pagans he heaved a deep sigh, and remarked it was sad to think that
+beings so bright and fair should be in the power of the Prince of
+Darkness. He next enquired the name of their nation. "Angles," was the
+reply. "'Tis well," he answered, playing on the word, "rightly are they
+called _Angles_, for their faces are the faces of angels, and they ought
+to be fellow-heirs with the angels of heaven." "And what is the name,"
+he proceeded, "of the province from which they have been brought?" "From
+Deira," was the answer. Catching its name, he rejoined, "Rightly are
+they named _Deirans_. Plucked from _ire_, and called to the mercy of
+Christ." "And who," he asked once more, "is the King of this province?"
+"Ælla," was the reply. The word recalled the Hebrew expression of
+praise, and he answered, "Allelujah! the praise of God shall be chanted
+in that clime!" And as Green so beautifully puts it in his "Making of
+England," "he passed on, musing how the angel faces should be brought to
+sing it." And brought to sing it they were when the evangelist Paulinus
+found his way in the best sense, to the heart of heathen Northumbria.
+Paulinus, whom men long remembered,
+
+    "Of shoulders curved, and stature tall,
+    Black hair, and vivid eye, and meagre cheek."
+
+had come from Rome with Bishop Justus in 601, and laboured with
+Augustine in the evangelization of Kent. When Ethelburga, daughter of
+Ethelbert of Kent, Augustine's convert, became wedded to Edwin, the
+still idolatrous King of Northumbria, Paulinus accompanied her as
+chaplain, and at the same time as missionary among the rude
+Northumbrians. The field of his labours was a wide one. For a long time
+he made no progress until Edwin himself, moved by his escape from
+assassination at the hands of the King of Wessex, and by his victory
+over Wessex, and under the gentle constraint of Paulinus, resolved that
+both he and his nobles should be baptized, and this resolution was
+carried into effect at York, in a hastily-built chapel (the precursor of
+the Minster), on Easter Eve, 627.
+
+The conversion of Edwin was followed by a great social revolution.
+Having convoked the National Assembly, he unfolded the reasons for his
+change of faith. Everywhere he was applauded. Crowds of the nobility,
+chiefs of petty states, and the great mass of the people followed the
+example of their King. The worship of the ancient gods was solemnly
+renounced, and even Coifi, the high priest, was the first to give the
+signal for destruction by hurling his lance at an idol in the pagan
+temple. Paulinus was now one of the most popular figures in Northumbria.
+Wherever he preached, crowds gathered to hear him and to be received,
+like their Overlord, into the Christian communion. Many spots in
+Northumberland are identified with the name of this early and ardent
+Apostle of the North. Pallinsburn, overlooking Flodden Field, is, of
+course, Paulinus's Burn, where large numbers were baptized. In one of
+his missionary journeys we are told (Bede) how he was occupied for six
+and thirty consecutive days from early morn until nightfall, in teaching
+the people and in "washing them with the water of absolution" in the
+river Glen, which flowed by the royal "vill" of Yeavering (anciently
+Ad-gebrin) in Glendale. At the Lady's Well near Holystone, in the vale
+of the Coquet, about three thousand converts were welcomed into the
+Church of Christ. A graceful Runic cross erected on the spot bears the
+following inscription:--
+
+  +IN THIS PLACE
+  PAVLINVS THE BISHOP
+  BAPTIZED
+  THREE THOUSAND NORTHVMBRIANS.
+  EASTER, DCXXVII.+
+
+But after six years of incessant labours, the death of Edwin in battle
+with Penda, King of the Mercians, and Cadwallon of North Wales, put a
+sudden stop to his work. He did not wait for the honour of martyrdom,
+but went back with the widowed queen to Kent, where he became Bishop of
+Rochester, and she the Abbess of Lyminge. Paulinus died in 644, and was
+buried in the chapter-house at Rochester.
+
+  PLATE 3
+
+  BAMBOROUGH FROM
+
+  STAG ROCK
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 25, 58, 59_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+But it is ever the darkest hour that precedes the dawn. It was
+impossible that England should lose her faith and fall back under the
+rule of a mere heathen conqueror. After the "thoughtful Edwin,
+mightiest of all the kings of the isle of Britain," as he has been
+called (he was, by the way, the founder of Edinburgh), there arose
+another champion of the new light in the person of Oswald, Edwin's
+nephew. Oswald's history connects him with Columba the Irishman, and
+"Apostle of Scotland," to whose splendid work the nation owed its first
+real religious advance. About 563, when in his forty-second year, and
+accompanied by twelve companions, Columba found a resting-place on the
+little island of Hy or Iona, off the west coast of Scotland, whence he
+set himself to the great work of his life--the conversion of the Pictish
+tribes beyond the Grampians. At Iona Oswald had sheltered during the
+home troubles, and many valuable lessons he must have learned for the
+strenuous life that lay in front of him. Called to lead his countrymen
+against their oppressors, Oswald literally fought his way to the throne.
+On a rising ground, a few miles from Hexham, near the Roman Wall, he
+gathered in 634 a small force, which pledged itself to become Christian
+if it conquered in the engagement. Causing a cross of wood to be hastily
+made, and digging a hole for it in the earth, he supported it with his
+own hands while his men hedged up the soil around it. Then, like Bruce
+at Bannockburn years afterwards, he bade his soldiers kneel with him and
+entreat the true and living God to defend their cause, which he knew to
+be just, from the fierce and boastful foe. This done they joined battle,
+and attacked Cadwallon's far superior forces. The charge was
+irresistible. The Welsh army fled down the slope towards the
+Deniseburn,--a brook near Dilston which has been identified with the
+Rowley Burn,--and Cadwallon himself, the hero of fourteen battles and
+sixty skirmishes, was caught and slain. This was the battle of
+Hefenfelt, or Heaven's Field, as after-times called it. Not only was the
+last hero of the old British races utterly routed, but Oswald, King of
+once more reunited Bernicia and Deira, proved himself to the Christian
+cause all that Edwin had been, and more, a prince in the prime of life,
+and fitted by his many good qualities to attract a general enthusiasm of
+admiration, reverence, and love. Resolved to restore the national
+Christianity, and to realize the ambitions of his exile life, he turned
+naturally to Iona and to the teachers of his youth for missionaries who
+would accomplish the holy task. At his request, Aidan, one of the
+fittest of the Columban band, was sent to carry on the work of
+evangelization in Northumbria, which happy event may be reckoned as the
+first permanent planting of the Gospel in the Eastern Border. The light
+which he kindled was never afterwards quenched. And as Columba had
+chosen Iona, so for Aidan there was one spot to which his heart went out
+above all others. This was the island-peninsula of Lindisfarne, off the
+Northumbrian coast, so called from the little river Lindis, which here
+enters the sea, and the Celtic _fahren_, "a recess." Bede has a fine
+passage which is worth quoting:--"On the arrival of the Bishop (Aidan)
+King Oswald appointed him his episcopal see in the isle of Lindisfarne,
+as he desired. Which place as the tide flows and ebbs twice a day, is
+enclosed by the waves of the sea like an island; and again, twice in the
+day, when the shore is left dry, becomes contiguous to the land. The
+King also humbly and willingly in all cases giving ear to his
+admonitions, industriously applied himself to build and extend the
+church of Christ in his kingdom; wherein, when the Bishop, who was not
+skilful in the English tongue, preached the gospel, it was most
+delightful to see the King himself interpreting the Word of God to his
+commanders and ministers, for he had perfectly learned the language of
+the Scots during his long banishment. From that time many of the Scots
+came daily into Britain, and with great devotion preached the word to
+those provinces of the English over which King Oswald reigned, and those
+among them that had received priest's orders, administered to them the
+grace of baptism. Churches were built in several places; the people
+joyfully flocked together to hear the Word; money and lands were given
+of the King's bounty to build monasteries; the English, great and small,
+were, by their Scottish masters, instructed in the rules and observance
+of regular discipline; for most of them that came to preach were monks."
+(Eccl. Hist. Bk. iii., c. 2). Than Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, as it
+came to be called, there is no more sacred spot in Northumbria--in
+England even. Its history is coeval with that of the nation, and it was
+from that hallowed centre of Christian activity that the gospelizing of
+both sides of the Border was planned and prayed over many an anxious
+hour and day. Aidan's missionaries went forth planting churches in
+various places. One of the best known of these settlements was Old
+Melrose, the original shrine by the beautiful bend of the Tweed, a mile
+or two down the river from the second and more celebrated Melrose. Here
+Eata, "a man much revered and meek;" and Boisil, who gave his name to
+the neighbouring St. Boswells; and Cuthbert, the most illustrious of
+them all, served God with gladness. Of the latter, certainly the most
+conspicuous Borderer of his day, something more must be said. Three
+kingdoms claim his birthplace. The Irish Life of the Saint alleges him
+to be sprung of her own blood royal; he is affirmed also to have come of
+noble Northumbrian descent; whilst the Scottish tradition makes him the
+child of humble parents, born and reared in Lauderdale, one of the
+sweetest valleys of the Border. It is a fact, at any rate, that when the
+light of record first falls upon him the youthful Cuthbert is seen as a
+shepherd lad by the Leader; he is religiously inclined, and whilst his
+comrades sleep, he spends whole nights in prayer and meditation. One day
+he hears voices from out the unseen calling to him. Another night it is
+a vision of angels that he fancies he beholds bearing the soul of the
+sainted Aidan to the skies. Such was Cuthbert, a kind of mystic, a
+dreamer of strange dreams, destined apostle and Bishop, and next to
+Augustine himself the most illustrious figure in the annals of English
+monasticism. The church of Channelkirk (anciently Childeschirche)
+dedicated to the Saint, probably indicates his birth-spot. The Leader
+valley is full of legends of his boyhood, the whole west of
+Berwickshire, indeed, being haunted ground for Cuthbert's sake. Other
+great names in the history of early Border Christianity are those of
+Benedict Biscop, the founder of the monasteries of Jarrow and Monk
+Wearmouth; Wilfrid, the founder of Hexham; and the Venerable Bede--the
+"father of English learning"--whose "Church History of the English
+People" is the greatest of the forty-five works that bear his name.
+
+By far the most flourishing epoch in the religious development of the
+Border was the founding of the great Abbeys under David I.--"St.
+David"--as he is often called, though he was never canonized. Whilst
+still a Prince, he founded a monastery at Selkirk, and after his
+accession to the throne, there arose the four stately fanes of Kelso
+(1128), Melrose (1146), Jedburgh (1147), and Dryburgh (1150)--those rich
+and peaceful homes of art and intellectual culture whose ruins now
+strike us with marvel and regret. There is probably no other country
+district equally small in area that can boast a group of ruins at once
+so grand and interesting as those that lie within a few miles of each
+other along the banks of the Tweed and Jed. Founded almost
+contemporaneously, they were destroyed about the same time, by the same
+ruthless hands. The story of each is the story of all--burned and
+rebuilt, then spoiled and restored again, time after time, until finally
+at the dismal Hertford Invasion, in 1545, they all received their
+death-stroke. Other religious centres on the Scottish side were
+Coldingham in Berwickshire, founded in 1098 by King Edgar, son of
+Canmore and St. Margaret; Dundrennan, in Kirkcudbrightshire, founded in
+1142 by Fergus, Lord of Galloway; and Sweetheart or New Abbey, founded
+in 1275 by Devorgoil, great-great-granddaughter of David the First. On
+the English side, the Church had a less vigorous growth, having no such
+munificent patron as King David, but there, too, it could boast of
+Carlisle Cathedral, the Abbey of Alnwick, the Priories of Lanercost, and
+Hexham, and the still more renowned and classic Lindisfarne. The history
+of the latter began, as we saw, with the year 635, when Saint Aidan
+accepted the invitation of King Oswald to teach the new faith to the
+Northumbrians. Aidan's church, built of wood, and thatched with the
+coarse bents of the links, could not long withstand the storms or the
+brands of the wild sea-rovers. And of the stone sanctuary reared under
+the rule of succeeding bishops no portion of the present ruin can be
+considered as forming a part. Sir Walter Scott has thrown the spell of
+his genius around the picturesque ruins, but the tragical story of
+Constance of Beverley has no foundation in fact.
+
+  PLATE 4
+
+  HOLY ISLAND CASTLE:
+
+  HARVEST-TIME
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 32, 33, 36_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+BORDER WARFARE
+
+Of Border warfare it were impossible to treat within the limits of a
+library. In no part of the kingdom was the fighting and raiding spirit
+more rampant. The Border clans were constantly at war with one another,
+the slightest excuse provoking an attack, and not unfrequently was there
+no _raison d'être_ whatever for the accompanying ruin and desolation. It
+ran apparently in the blood of those old Borderers to live on unfriendly
+terms with their neighbours, and to seize every possible opportunity
+against them. The record of the raids does not lean more to one side
+than another for aggressiveness, though generally the Scot has been
+credited for this quality. But as a matter of fact both sides were
+equally at fault and equally determined. And the onslaughts were
+often of the most savage and persistent kind, and were almost entirely
+unchecked by the legal restraints which were set in force. The division
+of the district into East, West and Middle Marches, with a sort of
+vice-regal Warden appointed over each, was not always conducive to peace
+and good feeling. At certain times, a day of truce was held when the
+Wardens of both sides met and settled any questions that might be in
+dispute between their followers, but occasionally the decision was
+anything but harmonious--as in the case of the Reidswire, for instance.
+In the "Debateable or Threep Lands," which lay partly in England and
+partly in Scotland, between the Esk and the Sark, no end of worry and
+difficulty was experienced. "Its chief families were the Armstrongs and
+Grahams, both clans being noted as desperate thieves and freebooters.
+They had frequently to be dealt with by force of arms till in the 17th
+century, the Grahams were transported to Ireland, and forbidden to
+return upon pain of death. Other districts of the Borders from time to
+time called forth hostile visitations from the Scottish kings or their
+commissioners, when great numbers of the robbers were frequently seized
+and hanged. So late as 1606, the Earl of Dunbar executed as many as 140
+of them. The Union of the Crowns removed some obvious grounds of
+contention between the English and Scottish people, and after the middle
+of the 17th century the Borders gradually subsided into a more peaceful
+condition."
+
+It was doubtless due to the exigencies occasioned by those frequently
+recurring wars and raids from the 13th to the 16th century that the
+whole country on both sides of the frontier became so thickly studded
+with castles and peel-towers, the numerous ruins of which still form a
+distinctive feature in Border scenery, although from times much earlier
+the castles and strongholds were characteristic elements in the old
+Scottish landscape. Alexander Hume, of Polwarth, the poet-preacher of
+Logie, near Stirling, in his fine description of a "Summer's Day," thus
+refers to them:--
+
+    "The rayons of the sunne we see
+      Diminish in their strength;
+    The shade of everie tower and tree,
+      Extended is in length.
+    Great is the calm for everie quhair
+      The wind is settlin' downe;
+    The reik thrawes right up in the air,
+      From everie tower and towne."
+
+Generally these towers were planted on heights overlooking the
+river-valleys, and, as a rule, within sight of one another, in order
+that the signals of invasion or alarm--flashed by means of the bale
+fire--might be the more rapidly spread from point to point. Very few of
+them are now entire--the best-preserved on the Scottish side being,
+perhaps, Barns, at the entrance to the Manor valley; Bemersyde, still
+inhabited; and Oakwood on the Ettrick, incorporated in the present farm
+buildings; and on the English side, Corbridge and Doddington and
+Whittingham. From a return made in 1460 we find that Northumberland
+alone possessed 37 castles and 78 towers, and the Scottish side was
+equally well strengthened and defended. Amongst the larger and more
+important fortresses on the English side were the Castles of Alnwick,
+Bothal, Carlisle, Cockermouth, Coupland, Dilston, Elsdon, Etal, Ford,
+Naworth, Norham, Prudhoe, Wark, Warkworth; and on the Scottish side,
+Berwick, Branxholme, Caerlaverock (the true Ellangowan of "Guy
+Mannering"), Cessford, Ferniherst, Hermitage, Hume, Jedburgh, Neidpath,
+Peebles, Roxburgh, Threave, Traquair, besides, as has been said,
+hundreds of peel and bastle-houses scattered all over the country.
+
+It would be a quite impossible task to chronicle the incessant
+clan-raids of the Border, and to narrate all the invasions that took
+place on either side would be to repeat in great measure the general
+history of England and Scotland. But at least two authentic reports,
+covering little more than a year, may be quoted as showing the
+extraordinary havoc and destruction caused by the latter. "In 1544 Sir
+Ralph Evers and Sir Brian Latoun, with an English army, invaded the
+Scottish Border, and between July and November they destroyed 192 towns,
+towers, barmkyns, parish churches, etc.; slew 403 Scots and took 816
+prisoners; carried off 10,386 head of cattle, 12,492 sheep, 1296 horses,
+200 goats, and 850 bolls of corn, besides an untold quantity of inside
+gear and plenishing. In one village alone--that of Lessudden (now St.
+Boswells)--Sir Ralph Evers writes that he burned 16 strong
+bastle-houses. Again in September of the following year, the Earl of
+Hertford a second time invaded the country, and between the 8th and the
+23rd of that month, he razed and cast down the abbeys of Jedburgh,
+Kelso, Dryburgh, and Melrose, and burned the town of Kelso. At the same
+time he destroyed about 30 towns, towers and villages on the Tweed, 36
+on the Teviot, 12 on Rulewater, 13 on the Jed, 45 on the Kale, 19 on the
+Bowmont, 109 in the parishes of Eccles and Duns in Berwickshire, with 20
+other towns and villages in the same county. The places destroyed are
+all named in the report to the English king, along with a classified
+list of that terrible sixteen days' destruction, embracing 7 monasteries
+and friars' houses, 16 castles, towers and peels, 5 market-towns, the
+immense number of 243 villages, with 13 mills, and 3 hospitals."
+
+It cannot be forgotten that upon Border soil were fought at least six of
+the great historical battles of the nation, _viz._, Halidon Hill (1333);
+Otterburn (1388); Homildon Hill (1402); Flodden (1513); Solway Moss
+(1542); and Ancrum Moor (1544). Of mere internal contests there are the
+fight at Arkinholm (Langholm, 1455), between Scotsmen, where James II.
+broke the power of the Douglases; the battle of Hedgeley Moor (1464),
+and of Hexham (1464) between the English adherents of Lancaster and
+York, when the Lancastrians were defeated; the affair of Melrose
+(Skirmish Hill, 1526) between Borderers under the Earl of Angus and
+Buccleuch; and Philiphaugh (1645) when Leslie drove Montrose from the
+field. Of what were purely faction fights and deeds of daring such as
+the Raid of the Reidswire (1575), and the rescue of Kinmont Willie
+(1596), the ancient ballads will keep their memory green for many a year
+to come.
+
+  PLATE 5
+
+  VIEW OF NORHAM
+
+  CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39, 60, 93_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Two great incidents of Border warfare stand out before all
+others--Otterburn and Flodden. Old Froissart has told the story of
+Otterburn. The Scottish barons, tired of the fickleness and
+inactivity of their king, determined to invade England, met at Aberdeen,
+and arranged the preliminaries for a great gathering at Southdean,
+beyond Jedburgh. On the day appointed the best blood in Scotland was
+assembled. "There had not been for sixty years so numerous an
+assembly--they amounted to twelve hundred spears and forty thousand
+other men and archers." The Earl of Douglas, the Earl of March and
+Dunbar, and the Earl of Moray, with three hundred picked lancers and two
+thousand infantry, burst into Northumberland, rode south as far as
+Durham, and laid waste the country. In one of their encounters before
+Newcastle-on-Tyne the Earl of Douglas had a hand-to-hand combat with Sir
+Henry Percy--- Hotspur,--who was overthrown, Douglas seizing his
+pennon--the silken streamer bearing his insignia, which was fastened
+near the head of his lance. In triumph he exclaimed: "I will carry this
+token of your prowess with me into Scotland, and place it on the tower
+of my castle at Dalkeith, that it may be seen from afar." "By God, Earl
+of Douglas," replied Hotspur, "you shall not even bear it out of
+Northumberland; be assured you shall never have this pennon to boast
+of." "You must come then," answered Douglas, "this night and seek for
+it. I will fix your pennon before my tent, and shall see if you will
+venture to take it away." On the following evening the Scottish army
+"lighted high on Otterburn," in Redesdale, and there Sir Henry and Ralph
+Percy, with six hundred spears of knights and squires and upwards of
+eight thousand infantry, fell upon the Scots, who were but three hundred
+lances, and two thousand others. The fight that followed was one of the
+most spirited in history, and ended in the death of Douglas, the capture
+of Hotspur, the serious wounding of his brother, and the killing or
+capture of one thousand and forty Englishmen on the field, the capture
+of eight hundred and forty others in the pursuit, and the wounding of a
+thousand more. The Scots lost only one hundred slain and two hundred
+captured. "It was," says Froissart, "the hardest and most obstinate
+battle ever fought." The tragic incidents of this encounter have been
+kept alive not historically but poetically. It is the immortality of
+song which preserves the memory of Otterburn. No contest was more
+emphatically the "ballad-singer's joy." Two ballads, the one Scots, the
+other English, give their respective versions of the event with those
+natural discrepancies between the two, which may easily be accounted for
+on patriotic grounds. That given in Scott's "Minstrelsy" is
+unquestionably the finer, and contains the lines so often quoted by
+Scott himself, and at no occasion more pathetically than during his
+visit--pretty near the end--to the old Douglas shrines in Lanarkshire,
+the locality of "Castle Dangerous":
+
+    "My wound is deep. I fain would sleep;
+      Take thou the vanguard of the three,
+    And hide me by the braken bush
+      That grows on yonder lilye lea.
+
+    "O bury me by the braken bush,
+      Beneath the blooming brier;
+    Let never living mortal ken
+      That ere a kindly Scot lies here."
+
+The story of Flodden is the darkest, perhaps, on the page of Scottish
+history, and like Otterburn, has been written in strains grand and
+majestic, and certainly the most heart-moving in the whole realm of
+northern minstrelsy. There Scotland lost her King, the Archbishop of St.
+Andrew's, James's natural son, two abbots, twelve earls, seventeen
+lords, four hundred knights, and fifteen thousand others, all sacrificed
+to the fighting pride of James IV. of Scotland. Pierced by several
+strong arrows, the left hand hacked clean from the arm, the neck laid
+open in the middle, James's body was carried mournfully to Berwick. He
+had died a hero's death, albeit a foolish one. His last words have lived
+in the lines of the rhymer:
+
+    "Fight on, my men,
+      Yet Fortune she may turn the scale;
+    And for my wounds be not dismayed,
+      Nor ever let your courage fail.
+
+    Thus dying did he brave appear
+      Till shades of death did close his eyes;
+    Till then he did his soldiers cheer,
+      And raise their courage to the skies."
+
+The era of Blood and Iron on the Borders has passed long since. Peace
+and prosperity prevail on both sides of the Tweed. Old animosities are
+seldom spoken of, and hardly ever remembered. A cordial amity and
+good-will and co-operation evidence the strength of the cementing
+element which no loyal heart, either north or south, can ever desire to
+see broken.
+
+
+  PLATE 6
+
+  TWIZEL BRIDGE OF THE
+
+  XIV. CENTURY
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_Famous in connection with Flodden Field_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+II. THE ENGLISH BORDER
+
+NORTHUMBERLAND
+
+
+A line drawn from Berwick to Carlisle, and across England to the Coquet,
+thence north again, coast-wise, to the old Tweedside borough will give
+us, for all practical purposes, the English Border Country. Only a part
+of the Roman Wall, as far as Crag Loch and Borcovicus (Housesteads),
+will come within the present purview, which excludes Newcastle itself
+and the "coaly Tyne." We are to deal with rural Northumberland rather,
+and with a little corner of Cumberland, the immediate and true Border.
+Even at this time of day much of the English Border is still a kind of
+_terra incognita_ to the tourist and holiday-maker. For travelling
+facilities have not been of the best hitherto. But it is a new order of
+things now, and even the most outlying spots can be reached with a
+wonderful degree of comfort impossible not so very long ago. Bewcastle,
+for instance, and the once wild and trackless "Debateable Land" between
+Canonbie and the Solway, have come within comparatively easy distance of
+railroad and coaching centres. The crossing of the Solway Moss by the
+Caledonian Route, and the opening out of the line from Alnwick to Wooler
+and Cornhill, together with the numerous driving tours that are in daily
+operation during the summer at least, have become the _open sesame_ to a
+district practically shut up even less than a half century since. It is
+now possible to breakfast in Carlisle, or Newcastle, or much further
+south for that matter (or north), and within an hour or two to be
+revelling in the most delightful rusticities at the foot of the
+Cheviots, or in the very heart of them. The remotest localities are
+rendered accessible even for a single day's outing, and a holiday on the
+English Border is not likely to be a disappointing one. There is
+something to suit every taste. If one is archaeologically inclined, for
+instance, Northumberland has one of the finest collections of military
+antiquities in the kingdom, from the rude circular camps and
+entrenchments of the primitive inhabitants to the great castles and
+peel-towers of mediæval times. The Romans have left a mighty monument of
+their power--none more significant--in the huge barrier thrown across
+the lower half of the county, and in the stations and roads connected
+with it. In some respects the Roman Wall may be accounted
+Northumberland's principal attraction, and a pilgrimage between Tyne and
+Solway must always repay itself. If one is artistically inclined, there
+are beauty-spots for all canvases--as befits the birthplace of such
+masters as Bewick and Foster. And as an angler's paradise the Cheviot
+uplands have long been popular. The historical memories of the English
+Border are outstanding. For centuries this little fringe of country was
+a continuous warring-ground for the two nations that are now happily
+one. Upon its soil were fought some of the bloodiest, and it must be
+added, some of the most fool-hardy and unjustifiable fights on record.
+In its religious story it has much to boast of. By its missionaries and
+by its sword it won England from heathendom to the Christian Church. The
+development of the monastic system in Northumbria did more than
+anything else to civilise and colonise the entire realm, Scotland
+included. "Its monasteries," as Green says, "were the seat of whatever
+intellectual life the country possessed, and above all, it had been the
+first to gather together into a loose political unity the various tribes
+of the English people, and by standing at their head for nearly a
+century to accustom them to a national life out of which England as we
+have it now was to spring."
+
+The physical conditions, generally speaking, are similar on both sides
+of the Border. Wide arable expanses, well-wooded and fertile, cover the
+chief valleys and much of the Northumbrian coast-line. But in the main,
+the landscape is purely pastoral for miles, showing few signs of human
+life, and the nearest habitation often at a considerable distance. The
+Northumbrian uplands are confined chiefly to the Cheviots, the Pyrenees
+on a small scale; two-thirds of their whole three hundred square miles
+are in the county, constituting perhaps the loveliest cluster of
+pastoral hills in the island. Of this group, Cheviot--to be more
+distinctive, _the_ Cheviot--(2676 feet) sits in the centre almost,
+dignified and massive, the "recumbent guardian of the great lone
+moorland." Others, taking them according to height, are Cairn Hill
+(2545), Hedgehope (2348), Comb Fell (2132), Cushat Law (2020), Bloody
+Bush Edge (2001), Windy Gyle (1963), Dunmore (1860), Carter Fell (1600),
+and Yeavering Bell (1182)--a graceful cone overlooking the pretty hamlet
+of Kirknewton. A climb to the broad back of the Cheviot, or the rounded
+top of Yeavering, should be made by every tourist who rambles along the
+Border. Both are reachable from the Scottish and English sides, as by
+Bowmont and Colledge Waters, or by that loveliest of all the upland
+dales, Langleeford. Despite the somewhat quagmire character of its flat
+summit, the view from the Cheviot, as one might expect, is a truly
+inspiring one, comprising the whole coast-line between Berwick and
+Tynemouth, and the vast inland expanse from Midlothian to the
+Solway--the Scottish Border _in toto_. The Cheviots are hills rather
+than the "mountains blue" of poetic licence. Yet all are imposing to a
+degree, and exhibit an excellent contour against the sky-line. They have
+none of the wildness and savagery of the Highland ranges, and even the
+steepest are grass-grown from skirt to summit, being easy of ascent, and
+commanding the most varied and brilliant prospects.
+
+Robert Crawford sings of them as "Cheviot braes so soft and gay," and
+Gilpin likens the hirsels browsing on the most acclivitous to pictures
+hung on immense green walls. From time immemorial those charming uplands
+have been grazed by the quiet, hardy, fine-wooled, white-faced breed of
+sheep which bear their name; and in the days of the raids (for this is
+the true "raider-land" of history) they were resonant, more than any
+other part of Scotland, with the clang of freebootery and the yell of
+strife. Mrs. Sigourney's apostrophe to the present day flocks may be
+quoted:
+
+    Graze on, graze on, there comes no sound
+      Of Border warfare here,
+    No slogan cry of gathering clan,
+      No battle-axe, or spear.
+    No belted knight in armour bright,
+      With glance of kindled ire,
+    Doth change the sports of Chevy-Chase
+      To conflict stern and dire.
+
+    Ye wist not that ye press the spot,
+      Where Percy held his way
+    Across the marches, in his pride,
+      The "chiefest harts to slay;"
+    And where the stout Earl Douglas rode
+      Upon his milk-white steed,
+    With "fifteen hundred Scottish spears,"
+      To stay the invaders' deed.
+
+    Ye wist not, that ye press the spot
+      Where, with his eagle eye,
+    King James, and all his gallant train,
+      To Flodden-Field swept by.
+    The Queen was weeping in her bower,
+      Amid her maids that day,
+    And on her cradled nursling's face
+      Those tears like pearl-drops lay:
+
+    Graze on, graze on, there's many a rill
+      Bright sparkling through the glade,
+    Where you may freely slake your thirst,
+      With none to make afraid.
+    There's many a wandering stream that flows
+      From Cheviot's terraced side,
+    Yet not one drop of warrior's gore
+      Distains its crystal tide.
+
+  PLATE 7
+
+  FLODDEN FIELD AND
+  THE CHEVIOT HILLS
+
+  FROM A WATER COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 40, 48, 99, 103, 121_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Of the river valleys running south of the Border line, the chief are the
+Breamish, or the Till, as it is termed from Bewick Brig--the "sullen
+Till" of "Marmion"; the Aln, from Alnham Kirk to the sand-banks of
+Alnmouth, a glen emphatically rich in legendary lore; the Coquet, the
+most picturesque and most popular trouting-stream in the North of
+England; and Redesdale, redolent of "Chevy Chase," rising out of Carter
+Fell, and joining the North Tyne at Redesmouth, a little below the
+pleasant market-town of Bellingham. The chief towns are Berwick and
+Alnwick, Hexham being outside our present delimitation. Many of the
+smaller places, and the villages, are models of their kind. Wooler, at
+the base of the Cheviots, is a choice mountaineering and angling centre,
+from which, by way of Langleeford, is the favourite route to Cheviot
+top. It was at the Whitsun Tryst or Wooler sheep fair, that Scott's
+grandfather spent his old shepherd's thirty pounds in buying a horse
+instead of sheep, but with such happy results in the sequel. And hither
+came Scott himself in August, 1791, to imbue his mind with the legends,
+the history, and scenery of the neighbourhood. "Behold a letter from the
+mountains," he writes to his friend William Clerk, "for I am very snugly
+settled here, in a farmer's house (at Langleeford), about six miles from
+Wooler, in the very centre of the Cheviot hills, in one of the wildest
+and most romantic situations, which your imagination, fertile upon the
+subject of cottages, ever suggested. 'And what the deuce are you about
+there?' methinks I hear you say. Why, sir, of all things in the world,
+drinking goat's whey; not that I stand in the least need of it, but my
+uncle having a slight cold, and being a little tired of home, asked me
+last Sunday evening if I would like to go with him to Wooler; and I,
+answering in the affirmative, next morning's sun beheld us on our
+journey through a pass in the Cheviots, upon the backs of two special
+nags, and man Thomas behind with a portmanteau, and two fishing-rods
+fastened across his back, much in the style of St. Andrew's cross. Upon
+reaching Wooler we found the accommodation so bad that we were forced to
+use some interest to get lodgings here, where we are most delightfully
+appointed, indeed. To add to my satisfaction we are amidst places
+renowned by feats of former days; each hill is crowned with a tower, or
+camp, or cairn; and in no situation can you be near more fields of
+battle--Flodden, Otterburn, and Chevy Chase. Ford Castle, Chillingham
+Castle, Coupland Castle and many another scene of blood are within the
+compass of a forenoon's ride. Out of the brooks with which the hills are
+intersected, we pull trouts of half a yard in length, as fast as we did
+the perches from the pond at Pennicuik, and we are in the very country
+of muirfowl.... My uncle drinks the whey here, as I do ever since I
+understood it was brought to his bedside every morning at six, by a very
+pretty dairymaid. So much for my residence. All the day we shoot, fish,
+walk, and ride; dine and sup on fish struggling from the stream, and the
+most delicious heath-fed mutton, barn-door fowls, pies, milk cheese,
+etc, all in perfection; and so much simplicity resides amongst those
+hills that a pen, which could write at least, was not to be found about
+the house, though belonging to a considerable farmer, till I shot the
+crow with whose quill I write this epistle." (See Lockhart, chapter
+vi.). In this passage we have an interesting glimpse of what
+Northumberland was a hundred years ago, and of the great author enjoying
+a holiday while yet reading for the law, and before fame began to blow
+her trumpet in his praise.
+
+Sweeter villages than Etal and Ford could scarcely be imagined out of
+Arcadia. Etal Castle was destroyed by James IV. previous to Flodden,
+and has never been restored. Ford Castle, built originally in 1287, has
+been frequently renovated and enlarged, and is now a most excellent
+example of the military style of architecture plus the modern mansion
+house. Formerly held by the Herons, its chatelaine figures in "Marmion"
+as the syren who detained the King when he ought to have been in the
+field. The frescoes in Ford schoolroom, painted by the late Lady
+Waterford, are objects not only of good art but of a well-conceived
+philanthropy. Ancroft and Lowick, Chatton and Chillingham are delightful
+summer resorts. Chillingham is famous for its Elizabethan Castle, but
+still more so, perhaps, for its herds of wild cattle, the survivors of
+the wild ox of Europe, and the supposed progenitors of our domestic
+cattle. Other summer resorts are Belford and Doddington, but the whole
+coast-line, indeed, is dotted with the most desirable holiday-nooks in
+the county.
+
+  PLATE 8
+
+  VIEW OF WARKWORTH
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39, 51, 52, 56_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Coquet bears the palm for picturesqueness amongst Northumbrian
+valleys, and is about forty miles in length. From Alwinton, the first
+village after crossing the Cheviots, where the Alwine joins the
+Coquet--"a place of slumber and of dreams remote among the hills"--to
+Warkworth Castle, the stream carries history and romance in every league
+of its course. Here are such names as Biddlestone, the "Osbaldistone,"
+of "Rob Roy" (there are other claimants such as Chillingham and
+Naworth); Harbottle, a hamlet of venerable antiquity; Holystone,
+mentioned already in connection with Paulinus; Hepple, with the remnant
+of a strong peel tower of the Ogles; and Rothbury, the capital of Upper
+Coquetdale, a snug township in the midst of an amphitheatre of the
+wild, stony Simonside hills. In the old days it was a reiving centre of
+notoriety. All this part of Northumberland, indeed, was a constant
+freebooting arena, neither Scots nor English being content without some
+fray on hand. There is not a village, or a town, or farmhouse even, but
+has some tale to tell of that uncanny period. Cragside, Lord Armstrong's
+palatial seat, reclaimed, like Abbotsford, from the barren mountain
+side, is within a mile of Rothbury. Then come Brinkburn Priory, "an
+ancient fabric awful in repose," founded by William de Bertram, lord of
+Mitford, in the reign of Henry I.; Felton, a neat little village, where
+Alexander of Scotland received the homage of the Northumbrian barons;
+and Warkworth, "proud of the Percy name," one of the quaintest and
+oldest towns in Northumberland, and teeming with historical and romantic
+associations. So near the sea, and with some of the rarest river scenery
+in the county close at hand, the place is in high favour as a holiday
+resort. A Saxon settlement, all interest centres around its dismantled
+Castle, believed to have been built by Roger Fitz-Richard, to whom Henry
+II. granted in 1158 the manor of Warkworth. Strengthened from time to
+time, it became a Percy possession, and was the chief residence of the
+family to the middle of the 15th century. At the height of its power it
+must have been well-nigh impregnable, encircled on three sides by the
+winding banks and overhanging woods of the Coquet, and on a commanding
+eminence above it; and though time and many devastating hands have long
+since riven its ancient walls, the pile still presents a splendid
+example of a baronial stronghold, second to few on the Borders.
+
+Among Northumbrian towns, Alnwick (the county town) ranks next to
+Newcastle. But whilst the rise of the latter and its prosperity and
+colour have been each affected by the great industrial changes of the
+century, Alnwick's development has been very different. Lying peacefully
+amidst pastoral hills, by the side of a river unpolluted by modern
+commerce, this ancient Border town still presents the plain and austere
+aspect which it wore when the great stage-coaches passed through on
+their way from London to Edinburgh. In Newcastle, despite its numerous
+relics of antiquity, one's mind is ever dominated by the potent Present,
+whereas in Alnwick, it is ever under the spell of the dreamy Past. The
+quaint, irregular stone-built houses are touched with the sober hues of
+antiquity, and seem to take their character from the great baronial
+relic of feudal times. The history of the town is chiefly a record of
+
+    "Old unhappy far-off things,
+    And battles long ago."
+
+It was founded by the Saxons, who styled it Alainwick, "the town on the
+clear water." Like Carlisle, its history is largely one of attack and
+retaliation. The Scottish Sovereigns were peculiarly unfortunate at
+Alnwick. For here Malcolm Canmore was speared to death in 1093, and
+William the Lion made prisoner in 1174, and inside the castle of to-day
+with its gilded ceilings, luxurious upholstery, and majestic mantels of
+Italian workmanship and marbles, are still to be seen the dour dungeons
+in which many a Scot died miserably while the Percy and his retainers
+feasted above. King John burned Alnwick to the ground in 1216, David I.
+besieged and captured it. Each of the Edwards visited the place. It was
+again devastated by the Scots in 1427. In 1463, it was held for Edward
+IV., and in 1464 it fell into the hands of Queen Margaret. Royalists and
+Roundheads occupied Alnwick during the wars between Charles and his
+Parliament, but after 1700 it settled down to comparative quiet. The
+Castle, of course, dominates the place. There is what William Howitt
+calls "an air of solemn feudality" overhanging the whole town. Streets
+and buildings, and the general tone harmonize well with the prevailing
+conditions. Only one of its four gates survives--the gloomy, old,
+weather-beaten Bondgate, built by the haughty Hotspur about the year
+1450. The Cross dates from the same period. The most interesting and
+venerable structure is the Church of St. Mary and St. Michael, founded
+about the beginning of the 14th century, Perpendicular in style, and
+abundant in Percy memorials. But the chief object of interest is the
+Castle with the Castle enclosure (some five acres in extent). The Castle
+itself is the most magnificent specimen of a feudal fortress in England,
+a verdict in which all who see it will agree. What an extraordinarily
+fascinating and profoundly impressive place, from the very stones of the
+courtyard to the defiant-looking warrior figures on the battlements of
+the barbican, and elsewhere. What an endless succession of towers and
+turrets (some of them with distinctive names, Hotspur and Bloody Gap)
+archways and corridors, walls and embrasures, and all the grim massive
+paraphernalia of the past, apparently as doggedly determined as ever.
+Perhaps, as one writer puts it, only a Percy could live quite at his
+ease as master of Alnwick Castle. One cannot imagine the average man
+making himself congenially at home here. But the inside comforts are an
+overflowing compensation for a somewhat forbidding exterior. We are told
+that even the towers at the angles of the encircling walls are museums
+of British and Egyptian antiquities, and game trophies, collected by
+members of the family. The fourth Duke has left much to show for the
+quarter of a million he lavished upon the building--exquisite wood
+carving, frescoes, marbles, and canvases. Mantovani, who restored the
+Raphael frescoes in the Vatican, was not too great a man to be hired by
+a Percy to adorn his Border castle. The walls of the grand staircase are
+panelled with beautiful marbles. There are unique paintings: the
+dining-room, a noble apartment, is pompous with Percys in fine frames,
+bewigged, robed and plain; the first Duke and his wife, who helped him
+to a dignity neither his money nor his courtly manners could have won
+for him, hang suitably in the place of honour above the hearth. Vandyck,
+Moroni, and Andrea del Sarto are worthily represented in the castle.
+Giorgione, who did so well the comparatively little he had time for, is
+here in his "Lady with the Lute." Raphael, Guido, and Titian are also
+within these swarthy outer walls, Titian's landscape contribution being
+specially notable, like Giovanni Bellini's "The Gods enjoying the Fruits
+of the Earth." One looks from it to the fair Northumberland country
+beyond the windows and then at the splendour and taste of the castle,
+and fancies, inevitably, that the Percys themselves have in these later
+days obtained quite their share of the privileges of Bellini's gods.
+Nothing that makes for domestic pleasure is lacking at Alnwick Castle.
+There is a stately library of some 15,000 books, with chairs for
+dreaming and chairs for study; and, not to slight meaner comforts, there
+is a kitchen that is a model of its baronial kind, about fifty yards
+distant from the dining-hall, with which it communicates by an
+underground passage. The first English possession acquired by the house
+of Percy north of the Tees was Dalton, afterwards called Dalton-Percy.
+Then came Alnwick, originally owned by the De Vescis, and purchased from
+them about 1309; Warkworth; Prudhoe-on-Tyne, one of the most picturesque
+of Northumbrian fortresses; Cockermouth; and Keeldar, in the Cheviots.
+And what of the Percys who ruled, and still rule, at Alnwick in their
+day of might? Very ancient is the name, numbering among its early
+patriarchs such grand old heroes as Manfred the Dane, and
+
+    "Brave Galfred, who to Normandy
+      With vent'rous Rollo came;
+    And from his Norman Castles won,
+      Assumed the Percy name."
+
+The pedigree traces the descent of Angus de Perci up to Manfred, and
+that of Josceline de Louvain up from Gerberga, daughter and heiress of
+Charles, Duke of Lorraine, to Charlemagne, and in the male line to the
+ancient Dukes of Hainault. This same Josceline, who was brother-in-law
+to King Henry I., married in 1168, Agnes, the great Percy heiress, and
+assumed the name of his wife:
+
+    "Lord Percy's heir I was, whose noble name
+    By me survives unto his lasting fame;
+    Brabant's Duke's son I wed, who, for my sake,
+    Retained his arms, and Percy's name did take."
+
+Their youngest son, Richard de Percy, then head of the family, was one
+of the chief barons who extorted Magna Charta from King John, and the
+ninth Lord, Henry, gave much aid to Edward I. in the subjugation of
+Scotland. It was he who purchased Alnwick. His son--another
+Henry--defeated David II. at Neville's Cross (1346); his grandson fought
+at Crécy; his great-grandson, the fourth Lord Percy of Alnwick, was
+marshal of England at the coronation of Richard II., and was created the
+same day Earl of Northumberland. By far the greater part of the romance
+of the Percys has centred round Harry Hotspur (eldest son of the
+preceding), whom the dead Douglas defeated at Otterburn, and who fell
+himself at Shrewsbury (1403) fighting against Henry IV. The soubriquet
+of Hotspur was given him because "in the silence of the night, when
+others were quietly sleeping, he laboured unwearied, as though his spur
+were hot."
+
+  PLATE 9
+
+  VIEW OF ALNWICK
+  CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 38, 49, and 53 to 58_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first Earl was slain at Bramham Moor (1408). The second Earl fell
+fighting for Henry VI. at St. Albans in 1455. The third at Towton
+(1461), and it was his brother the fourth Earl who comforted himself as
+he lay bleeding to death on Hedgley Moor (1464) that he had "saved the
+bird in his bosom." The fifth Earl was murdered in 1489. The sixth Earl
+was the lover of Anne Boleyn, maid of honour to Queen Catherine, and had
+King Henry VIII. for his rival, who in great wrath commanded Cardinal
+Wolsey to break off the engagement between them. The seventh Earl for
+espousing the cause of Mary, Queen of Scots, was beheaded in 1572. The
+eighth Earl in 1585 was found dead in bed with three pistol shots
+through his breast, whether by suicide or murder. The ninth Earl was
+imprisoned for fifteen years in the Tower on a baseless suspicion of
+being privy to the Gunpowder Plot. The tenth Earl fought on the
+Parliamentary side in the Civil War, and with the death of Josceline,
+the eleventh Earl, in 1670, the male line of the family came to an end.
+The eleventh Earl's only child--an heiress--married the Duke of
+Somerset, who was created in 1749 Baron Warkworth, and Earl of
+Northumberland, with remainder (having no male issue) to his son-in-law
+Sir Hugh Smithson, of Stanwick, a Yorkshire knight who in his youth had
+been an apothecary in Hatton Gardens. Sir Hugh succeeded to the Earldom
+in 1750, and was created in 1766 Earl Percy and Duke of Northumberland.
+The seventh Duke succeeded in 1899.
+
+From Alnwick it is fourteen miles to Bamborough, "King Ida's castle,
+huge and square." No traveller along the great north road between
+Alnwick and Berwick can fail to be struck with an object so boldly
+prominent as Bamborough. Far and wide it meets the vision, and is the
+more conspicuous from the flat character of its surroundings and the
+very open coast. Its base is an almost perpendicular mass of basaltic
+rock overlooking the sea, at a height of 150 feet. Founded in 547, it
+suffered many a siege, most of all at the hands of the Danes in 933. In
+the years that followed it was being constantly rebuilt, and as
+constantly stormed and broken again. As the great bombards left it in
+the fourth Edward's reign, so it lay dismantled for centuries. In 1720,
+Lord Crewe, the philanthropic Bishop of Durham, purchased the Castle and
+bequeathed it for charitable purposes--the reception and care of the
+poor, etc. In 1894 it was acquired by the late Lord Armstrong, at a cost
+of a quarter of a million, and fitted up as a convalescent home. The
+charming village of Bamborough, nestling within easy distance, has some
+celebrity as a health resort. The church in which St. Aidan died is one
+of the oldest in the country, and the churchyard contains Grace
+Darling's tomb. The Farne Islands, the scene of her brave exploit, are
+easily visible from the shore. There are seventeen in all, forming three
+distinct groups, Longstone, the heroine's home, lying farthest out. It
+was from the lighthouse on this latter island that the noble maiden of
+barely twenty-two descried the wreck of the _Forfarshire_, the 7th
+September, 1838, and formed her resolve at rescue. "He that goes out and
+sees the savage and iron nature of the rocks will not avoid wondering at
+the desperate nature of the attempt," crowned by an almost superhuman
+triumph. On the great Farne, or House Island, his favourite place of
+retirement, St. Cuthbert died in 687. How his followers bore, from
+shrine to shrine, the uncorrupted body of their Bishop is a tradition
+well-known. "For the space of seven years," says Reginald of Durham,
+"Saint Cuthbert was carried to and fro on the shoulders of pious men
+through trackless and waterless places; when no house afforded him a
+hospitable roof, he remained under covering of tents." Further, we are
+told how the monks first carried their precious burden to the stone
+church at Norham; thence towed it up the river to Tillmouth; on to
+Melrose, the Saint's home-sanctuary by the Tweed; thence through the
+Lowland glens towards the English Border where, descending the
+head-waters of the Tyne, they came to Hexham; passing westward to
+Carlisle in Cumberland, and Dufton Fells in Westmoreland, and over into
+Lancashire; then once more eastward to the monastery at York; and
+finally northward again to a last resting place in Durham, when
+
+            "After many wanderings past,
+    He chose his lordly seat at last
+    Where his Cathedral, huge and vast,
+    Looks down upon the Wear."
+
+
+"MERRIE CARLISLE"
+
+A glance at the outskirts of Carlisle suggests at once the fact that its
+founders had considered the strategic value of the site. The old
+Brigantes never planted their towns without due examination of the whole
+lie of the land, and especially with a view to its defencibleness. The
+river-junctions were often their favourite settling places. Hence the
+origin of Carlisle, and many others of the Border towns--Hawick,
+Selkirk, Kelso, etc. With its three encompassing streams--the Eden, the
+Caldew, and the Petteril, which still enclose the Castle and Cathedral
+hills in a sort of quasi-island, Carlisle has been aptly called "the
+city of the waters." Its situation certainly is all but perfect, whilst
+the picturesqueness and the extensiveness of its surrounding scenery are
+the admiration of all who see it. Built upon a hill which its walls
+once enclosed but which would now shut out its most populous suburbs,
+Carlisle commands a prospect only limited by the lofty mountain chain
+that encircles the great basin in which Cumberland lies. From the summit
+of the Cathedral or from the Keep of the Castle, the eye sweeps without
+interruption a vast prepossessing landscape, rich in wood and water and
+fertile valleys, over which the light and shade are ever gambolling, and
+the seasons spreading their variegated hues. Southward, across this fair
+expanse, the majestic Skiddaw rears his noble crest, and Helvellyn his
+wedge-like peak, radiant with the first and last rays of the sun.
+Saddleback, and the lesser hills, link the apparently unbroken chain
+with Crossfell and the eastern range; while further to the left the
+Northumberland fells bound the horizon. Then come the uplands by
+Bewcastle and the Border and the pastoral Cheviots. Away round to the
+west, the magnificent belt is terminated by "huge Criffel's hoary top"
+standing in solemn grandeur above the Solway.
+
+  PLATE 10
+
+  VIEW OF PRUDHOE-ON-TYNE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39 and 56_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There are few fairer or wider panoramas in Britain, and none more
+permeated with the very spirit of romance. What Lockhart said of
+Sandyknowe is equally true of this singularly fascinating view-point. To
+whichever hand we turn we may be sure there is "not a field but has its
+battle, and not a rivulet without its song."
+
+Unlike Melrose, which may claim to be the literary capital of the Border
+Country, Carlisle is the fighting capital. Its most stirring memories
+are of raiders and rescues, and its very air is
+
+            "full of ballad notes
+    Borne out of long ago."
+
+Despite its Cathedral, Carlisle is really more Scottish than English. A
+town which proclaimed the Pretender must be Scottish enough. No other
+English town fills so large a place in Scottish history. And even its
+present manners and customs, and no little part of its dialect, are
+coloured with Scottish sentiment and tradition. For which it cannot be a
+whit the worse! Walk about Carlisle, and one is charmed with the
+exquisite pleasantness of the place, the sense of comfort and prosperity
+that reigns in its streets and suburbs, the steady flow of traffic
+running through it, and the welcome geniality of its inhabitants. What a
+delightful spot is Stanwix yonder, for instance! And the banks of the
+Eden have something of those "Eden scenes" about them which Burns
+claimed for the Jed. That Bridge is not unlike Rennie's at Kelso. The
+public buildings are worth a more minute examination than the passing
+stranger usually gives. An atmosphere of delicious semi-antiquity is the
+crowning feature of "Merrie Carlisle," and one feels instinctively that
+under the inevitable modernity of the place there is an older story
+written on its stones--
+
+    "Old legends, of the monkish page,
+    Traditions of the saint and sage,
+    Tales that have the rime of age,
+    And chronicles of eld."
+
+It is so old a town that one cannot be certain of its origin. The name
+is apparently British, derived probably from _Caer Lywelydd_, or simply
+Caer Lywel, "the town or fort of Lywel," but whether this was a tribal,
+or local, or personal name it would be hazardous to say. By the Romans
+it was known as _Luguvallium_ or _Luguballia_, possibly "the town or
+fort by the Wall." This the Saxons abbreviated and altered to _Luel_,
+the original name, with the prefix _Caer_, hence Caer-Luel, Caerleil,
+Carleol, Karluil, Karliol, Carliol, Carlile, and Carlisle.
+
+"No English city," says Bishop Creighton, "has a more distinctive
+character than Carlisle, and none can claim to have borne its character
+so continuously through the course of English history. Carlisle is still
+known as 'the Border city,' and though the term 'the Border' has no
+longer any historical significance, it still denotes a district which
+has strongly marked peculiarities and retains a vigorous provincial
+life. There was a time when the western Border was equally important
+with the Border on the north, when the fortress on the Dee had to be
+stoutly held against the foe, and when the town which rose among the
+scrub by the upper Severn was a place of conflict between contending
+races. But this struggle was not of long duration, and Chester and
+Shrewsbury ceased to be distinctly Border towns. On the north, however,
+the contest continued to be stubbornly waged, till it raised up a
+population inured to warfare, who carried the habits of a predatory life
+into a time when they were mere survivals of a well-nigh forgotten past.
+Of this period of conflict Carlisle is the monument, and of this lawless
+life it was long the capital. Berwick-upon-Tweed alone could venture to
+share its glory or dispute its supremacy; but Berwick was scarcely a
+town; it was rather a military outpost, changing hands from time to time
+between the combatants; it was neither Scottish nor English, more than a
+castle, but less than a town, an accidental growth of circumstances,
+scarcely to be classed as an element of popular life. Carlisle, on the
+other hand, traces its origin to times of venerable antiquity, and can
+claim through all its changes to have carried on in unbroken succession
+the traditions of an historic life. It was the necessary centre of a
+large tract of country, and whether its inhabitants were British or
+English its importance remained the same. It was not merely a military
+position, but a place of habitation, the habitation of a people who had
+to trust much to themselves, and who amidst all vicissitudes retained a
+sturdy spirit of independence. This is the distinguishing feature of
+Carlisle; it is 'the Border city.' But though this is its leading
+characteristic which runs through all its history, it has two other
+marks of distinction, when compared with other English towns. It is the
+only town on British soil which bears a purely British name; and it is
+the only town which has been added to England since the Norman
+Conquest."
+
+  PLATE 11
+
+  VIEW OF CARLISLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 44, and 60 to 70_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Briefly, the headlines of Carlisle's history are these. Founded
+originally by the Britons, it was held by the Romans for close on four
+centuries. Many Roman remains (coins, medals, altars, etc.) have been
+unearthed, and Hadrian's big Wall (murus and vallum) is still traceable
+in several quarters. A sad spoliation by Pict and Scot followed the
+Roman withdrawal. They scarcely left one stone on another. Then came the
+Saxon supremacy under the good King Egfrith, with the spiritual
+oversight under Saint Cuthbert, to whom and his successors at
+Lindisfarne were bestowed in perpetuity the city with fifteen miles
+around it. But for Egfrith's death fighting the Picts on the far-off
+moorland of Nechtansmere (Dunnichen in Forfarshire) Carlisle might have
+risen early and rapidly to a sure place as one of the leading cities in
+the land. From 685, however, to the Conquest (1066) the place was
+virtually extinct. It was only then that a new epoch arose for the
+broken city as for the whole of England. The Conqueror himself is said
+to have commenced the rebuilding of Carlisle, but the town owes its
+restoration rather to his son William the Red, who, on his return from
+Alnwick, after concluding a peace treaty with the King of Scotland in
+1092, "observed the pleasantness of its situation, and resolved to raise
+it from its ruins." The Castle, the Priory, the once massive city walls,
+were all the work of the Rufus regime, completed by Henry I., who gave
+cathedral dignity to the church at Carlisle. David I., the "Sair Sanct,"
+raided Carlisle in 1136, and kept court for a time within its walls,
+which he heightened. It was at Carlisle that his death took place in
+1153. From that date to the 'Forty-five, Carlisle's history is mainly
+that of a kind of "buffer-state" between the two kingdoms. Few cities
+recall so many martial memories. It was Edward's base of operations in
+his Scottish wars. It was besieged by Wallace in 1298, by Bruce in
+1315--the year after Bannockburn, and again in 1322. Queen Mary's
+captivity at Carlisle in 1568; Buccleuch's daring and gallant rescue of
+Kinmont Willie in 1596, immortalised in the best of the Border ballads;
+the protracted siege by General Leslie in 1644 during the Parliamentary
+War; and the Pretender's short-lived triumph--these are the rest of its
+leading events.
+
+Of the historic Carlisle little is left, the Castle, the Cathedral, and
+the Guildhall being almost the sole relics of a long and notable past.
+Yet how vastly changed the place is from the quiet little Border town of
+a century ago even! Then it had barely ten thousand inhabitants, now
+there are over forty thousand. As the county town of Cumberland, and
+next to Newcastle the greatest railway centre in the north of England,
+its prosperity has grown by leaps and bounds. It is the terminus of no
+fewer than eight different lines, and its busy, never-at-rest Citadel
+Station is known all the world over. Gates and walls have long since
+vanished from "Merrie Carlisle." The streets are wide and airy, and
+altogether it presents a most comfortable and thriving appearance. At
+40, English Street, the chief thoroughfare, Prince Charlie slept for
+four nights during the '45. And from 79 to 83, Castle Street, the corner
+building (now a solicitor's office), between Castle Street and the
+Green-market, Scott led Miss Carpenter to the altar. Carlisle Castle, a
+huge, irregular reddish-brown stone structure, grim and defiant, with
+its almost perfect specimen of a Norman Keep, and battlements frowning
+towards the north, is still a place to see.
+
+But it is the Cathedral which is Carlisle's chief glory. Rising in the
+centre of the city, high above all other buildings except the factory
+chimneys, there is an air of importance about it not altogether
+justifiable. The building is small and not of very great account, the
+reason being that Carlisle was only erected into a See in 1133, and then
+out of Durham. The result was that the parish church was promoted to the
+dignity of a cathedral. Nevertheless, it has several striking
+features--a delightful Early English choir and magnificent east window,
+reputed to be unsurpassed by any other in the kingdom, if indeed in the
+world. From 1092, the date of the original building, to 1400-19, in
+Bishop Strickland's time, when the north transept was restored and the
+central tower rebuilt, and down to the present day, the edifice contains
+every variety of style, from Norman to Perpendicular, with admirable
+specimens of nineteenth century work. Of the original Norman minster the
+only parts remaining are two bays of the nave, the south transept, and
+the piers of the tower. How long the church remained in its pristine
+state it is impossible to say. The first alteration was probably the
+enlargement of the choir, towards the middle and close of the thirteenth
+century, immediately before the great fire of 1292, the worst the
+cathedral has experienced in its four burnings. The work of
+reconstruction after 1292 appears to have been somewhat slow, so slow
+that little was done till the year 1352, when Bishop Welton and his
+successor set themselves in earnest to the task. "The king, the city
+treasury, and the leading families of the neighbourhood contributed
+towards the restoration, in response to the urgent appeals of the
+bishops and to the indulgences issued for the remission of forty days'
+penance to such laity as should by money, materials, or labour,
+contribute to the pious work." Towards the close of the reign of Edward
+III. the renovated pile rose from it ruins. To this period belongs the
+entire east end, with its grand window, the triforium, the carved
+capitals of the arches, and the Decorated windows of the clerestory.
+The ceiling was painted and gilded and panelled, the intersections
+glowing with the armorial bearings of the rich donors by whose
+liberality the work had been carried to completion. The windows were
+filled with stained glass, and the nine lights of the east window with
+figures.
+
+  PLATE 12
+
+  VIEW OF NAWORTH
+
+  CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39 and 74_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In this state the cathedral appears to have remained till 1392, when
+another fire occurred, which destroyed the north transept. A lack of
+funds was again felt, and it was not till the lapse of nine or ten years
+that the restoration was completed. Only about a century later, however,
+Carlisle shared the fate of the monastic institutions, and was
+suppressed, and the church shorn of many of its enrichments. The Civil
+Wars witnessed the worst acts of spoliation, when nearly the whole of
+the nave, the chapter-house and cloisters were destroyed, the materials
+being used for guard-house purposes in the city. The reign of the
+"Puritan patchwork" may then be said to have begun, with plaster
+partitions here and there in horrifying evidence, the niches emptied of
+their treasures, and the fine old stained glass removed from the
+windows--and all, as was declared, in the spirit of "repairing and
+beautifying." "A great, wild country church," is its description about
+this time, "and as it appeared outwardly, so it was inwardly, ne'er
+beautify'd, nor adorn'd one whit." Not till 1853-57 was a general
+restoration, costing £15,000, inaugurated. Both internally and
+externally the edifice underwent a total renovation. Old and crumbled
+portions were pulled down and rebuilt; other parts were fronted anew;
+missing ornaments were supplied; ugly doorways were blocked up, and
+one grand entrance made befitting the church. The renaissance was
+complete as it was judicious. There was just sufficient of the old left
+to show the original structure, and sufficient of the new imparted to
+save the venerable fane from crumbling to pieces. Externally, the east
+is certainly the finest part of the building, with its unrivalled
+window--58 feet high and 32-1/2 feet wide, of nine lights, gracefully
+proportioned, the head filled with the most exquisite tracery-work,
+comprising no fewer than 263 circles. A uniquely ornamented gable, with
+a row of crosses on either shoulder, and a large cross at the apex,
+completes a highly finished centre. On either side stands out, in
+massive relief, a majestic buttress, containing full length statues of
+St. Peter, St. Paul, St James, and St. John, above which are light and
+elegant pinnacles. These great buttresses are flanked by the lesser ones
+of the aisles, tapering upwards with chastely carved spires--the whole
+forming an eastern front of great beauty and richness. The main entrance
+by a new doorway in the south transept is a triumph of the sculptor's
+skill. The great tower, 112 feet high, has been thoroughly renovated,
+and much of its former ornamentation restored. Of the interior, the nave
+is in length 39 feet, and in width about 60 feet. The Scots are said to
+have destroyed 100 feet of it in 1645, but that is quite uncertain. It
+has never been rebuilt, and has a serious effect on the general
+proportions, inducing a feeling of want of balance. Up to 1870 the nave
+was used as the parish church of St. Mary, and it was here--close by the
+great Norman columns--that Sir Walter Scott was married to Charlotte
+Carpenter, on December 24th, 1797. The spot might well be indicated by a
+small memorial brass. The richly-decorated choir, in no respect inferior
+to that of any other English cathedral, is 134 feet long, 71 feet broad,
+and 75 feet high. The warm red of the sandstone, the blue roof powdered
+with golden stars, the great east window filled with stained glass, and
+the dark oak of the stalls, make up a picture that enforces attention
+before the architectural details can receive their due admiration.
+
+The Cathedral contains several interesting monuments. Here is the tomb
+of Archdeacon Paley (1805), author of the "Evidences of Christianity"
+and "Horæ Paulinæ," both written at Carlisle, and the richly-carved
+pulpit inscribed to his memory. There are tablets to Robert Anderson
+(1833), the "Cumberland Bard;" to John Heysham, M.D. (1834), the
+statistician, and compiler of the "Carlisle Tables of Mortality;" George
+Moore (1876), the philanthropist; M. L. Watson (1847), the sculptor;
+Dean Cranmer (1848), Canon Harcourt (1870), and Dean Close (1882).
+Several military monuments are in evidence. One of the windows
+commemorates the five children of Archbishop Tait (then Dean), who died
+between March 6th and April 9th, 1856. Recumbent figures of Bishop
+Waldegrave (1869), Bishop Harvey Goodwin (1891) and Dean Close are by
+Acton Adams, Hamo Thorneycroft, R.A., and H. H. Armistead, R.A.,
+respectively. The older altar-tombs and brasses to Bishop Bell, Bishop
+Everdon, and Prior Stenhouse, should not be overlooked, and attention
+may be drawn also to the quaint series of fifth-century paintings from
+the monkish legends of St. Augustine, St. Anthony, and St. Cuthbert, and
+to the misereres of the stalls.
+
+Scarcely less interesting than Carlisle itself is the immediate
+neighbourhood of the Border city. And with what sterling picturesqueness
+does it appeal to us! One does not wonder that Turner and others found
+some of their masterpieces here. A wondrously historic countryside, too,
+is all this pleasantly-rolling tableland, mile upon mile to the
+Liddesdale and Eskdale heights with the Langholm Monument fairly visible
+as a rule, and sometimes even the famous Repentance Tower opposite
+Hoddom Kirk. Within twenty miles or so of Carlisle, up through the old
+Waste and Debateable Lands, or over into the romantic Vale of the
+Irthing, the dividing-point betwixt Cumberland and Northumberland, the
+district is full of the most fascinating material for the geographer and
+the historian. It is impossible to do more than mention a few of its
+memory-moving names. At Burghby-Sands, Edward I., "the Hammer of the
+Scots," having offered up his litter before the high altar at Carlisle,
+vowing to reduce Scotland to the condition of a mere English province,
+was forced to succumb to a grimmer adversary than lay anywhere beyond
+the Solway. Bowness-by-the-Sea was the western terminus of the Roman
+Wall. Arthuret has its name from the "Flower of Kings," one of whose
+twelve battles is said to have been fought there. Archie Armstrong,
+jester to King James VI., lies buried in its churchyard. At Longtown, on
+the Esk, the Jacobite troops forded the river "shouther to shouther," as
+Lady Nairne's lyric has it, dancing reels on the bank till they had
+dried themselves. Netherby, the _locale_ of "Young Lochinvar," Lady
+Heron's song in "Marmion," is in the near neighbourhood. So are
+Gilnockie or the Hollows, Johnie Armstrong's home, and Gretna Green,
+that once so popular but now defunct shrine of Venus. All this once
+bleak and barren bog-land is under generous cultivation now to a large
+extent, stretching from the Sark to the Esk, and eastward to Canonbie
+Lea; it was the treacherously Debateable, or No Man's Land of
+moss-trooping times, the most troubled and unsafe period of Border
+history. Solway Moss, some seven miles in circumference, is not likely
+to be forgotten--by Scotsmen, at any rate. It was the disastrous Rout of
+the Solway which hastened James V.'s death from a broken heart.
+
+  PLATE 13
+
+  VIEW OF LANERCOST
+  PRIORY
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 36 and 74_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Irthing valley is replete with historical remains and literary
+associations. Over there, to the north of Bewcastle (Beuth's Castle),
+there is a celebrated Runic Cross nearly fifteen feet high, of the
+Caedmon order, similar to that at Ruthwell. The Irthing flows through
+the wide moorish wilderness known as Spade-Adam, or the Waste, crosses
+the Roman Wall at Gilsland, thence courses amongst some of the richest
+scenery in Cumberland until it meets the Eden. Gilsland Spa has long
+been noted for the excellence of its waters and the remarkable salubrity
+of the district. Scott stayed at the old Shaw's Hotel in July, 1797, not
+the present palatial Convalescent Home (as it now is) which was rebuilt
+after a fire about fifty years since. Charlotte Carpenter was a guest at
+Wardrew House, directly opposite. They met often, and the result was
+love and marriage. On a huge boulder by the banks of the Irthing, where
+the glen comes to its steepest and wears its most enchanting aspect,
+Scott is said to have "popped the question," and the "Kissing Bush"
+where the compact was sealed is also pointed out close by. At Gilsland
+it is interesting to recall that one is to some extent in "Guy Mannering
+Land." A small private dwelling adjoining the Methodist Chapel claims to
+stand on the site of the notorious Mumps Ha', "a hedge ale-house, where
+the Border farmers of either country often stopped to refresh themselves
+and their nags on their way to and from the fairs and trysts in
+Cumberland." It was there that young Harry Bertram first met Dandie
+Dinmont and the weird figure of Meg Merrilies, who, by the way, was not
+buried at Upper Denton, as the guide-books say. It was the treacherous
+landlady, Meg Mumps or Margaret Carrick, who is there interred. The more
+important Meg--the real heroine of the story--was drowned in the Eden at
+Carlisle. Gilsland is a centre for some delightful excursions. Much of
+the Roman Wall may be visited from this centre, its two chief stations
+Borcovicus (Housesteads) and Burdoswald being within easy distances. The
+little Northumberland lakes, and the prettiest of them all, Crag Loch,
+the Nine Nicks of Thirlwall, seen from the Shaws with fine effect,
+Thirlwall and Blenkinsop Castles, Haltwhistle Church, all to the east,
+are objects of deep and abiding interest. Westward are Burdoswald--the
+Roman Amboglanna--covering an area of 5-1/2 acres, and overlooking a
+singularly graceful bend of the Irthing (not unlike that on the Tweed at
+Bemersyde); Lanercost Priory[A], founded by Robert de Vaux about 1166,
+frequently plundered by the Scots, and used now partly as the parish
+church and burial-place of the Carlisle family; Naworth,[B] the historic
+seat of the Earl of Carlisle, whose ancestor, Lord William Howard, was
+the famous "Belted Will" of Border story, who died in 1640:--
+
+    "His Bilboa blade, by marchmen felt,
+    Hung in a broad and studded belt;
+    Hence, in rude phrase, the Borderers still
+    Call noble Howard, 'Belted Will,'"--
+
+and Triermain Castle, all but vanished, whence Scott's "Bridal of
+Triermain"--
+
+    "Where is the Maiden of mortal strain,
+    That may match with the Baron of Triermain?
+    She must be lovely, and constant and kind,
+    Holy and pure, and humble of mind,
+    Blithe of cheer, and gentle of mood,
+    Courteous, and generous, and noble of blood--
+    Lovely as the sun's first ray,
+    When it breaks the clouds of an April day,
+    Constant and true as the widow'd dove,
+    Kind as a minstrel that sings of love."
+
+[A] Lanercost is a fine example of Early English. The church consists of
+a nave with north aisle, a transept with aisles on the east side used as
+monumental chapels and choir, a chancel, and a low square tower. The
+nave is used as the Parish Church. The crypt contains several Roman
+altars from Burdoswald, etc. Some of the inscriptions are of great
+interest.
+
+[B] Naworth is said to be one of the oldest and best specimens existing
+of a baronial residence. It is associated largely with the turbulent
+times of Border warfare. "Belted Will," a terror to all marauders, is
+its best-known name, "a singular lover of venerable antiquities, and
+learned withal," as Camden describes him. The British Museum contains
+some of his letters, and his library is still preserved at Naworth.
+"Belted Will's" Tower, to the north-east of the Castle, is the most
+notable feature at Naworth.
+
+
+
+
+III. THE TWEED AND ITS ASSOCIATIONS.
+
+
+"Both are good, the streams of north and south, but he who has given his
+heart to the Tweed as did Tyro in Homer to the Enipeus, will never
+change his love." So does Mr. Andrew Lang remind us of his affection for
+Tweedside and the Border. Elsewhere he speaks of Tweed shrining the
+music of his cradle song, and the requiem he would most prefer--may that
+day be long in coming!
+
+            "No other hymn
+    I'd choose, nor gentler requiem dear
+    Than Tweed's, that through death's twilight dim,
+    Mourned in the latest Minstrel's ear."
+
+Lockhart's description of Sir Walter's death-scene, so touching in its
+very simplicity, has never been matched in literary biography. From the
+first years of his life, Scott was wedded to the Tweed. It was his
+ancestral stream. And it stood for all that was best and fairest in
+Border story. It was by the Tweed that he won his greatest triumphs, and
+faced his greatest defeats, where he spent the happiest as well as the
+most strenuous period of his career. So that, to breathe his last breath
+by its pleasant banks--a desire oft repeated--was as natural as it was
+keen and eager. We know how at length he was borne back to Abbotsford,
+the house of his dreams, and how on one of those ideal days during the
+early autumn that crowning wish was realised; "It was a beautiful day,
+so warm that every window was wide open, and so perfectly still that the
+sound of all others most delicious to his ear--the gentle ripple of the
+Tweed over its pebbles--was distinctly audible as we knelt around the
+bed and his eldest son kissed and closed his eyes."
+
+Of course, it is owing, in great measure, to Scott that the Tweed has so
+exalted a place in literature. To speak of the Tweed at once recalls
+Scott and all that the Tweed meant to him. Both in a sense are names
+inseparable and synonymous. It is almost entirely for Scott's sake that
+Tweedside has become one of the world-Meccas. What Scott did for the
+Tweed--the Border--renders it (to speak reverently) holy ground for
+ever. Hence the affection with which the world looks on Scott--as a
+patriot,--as one who has helped to create his country, and as a great
+literary magnet attracting thousands to it, and as the medium of some of
+the most pleasurable of mental experiences. Of the great names on
+Scotland's roll of honour, Scott, even more than all of them (even more
+than Burns), has wedded his country to the very best of humankind
+everywhere. But do not let us forget that Tweed had its lovers many
+before Scott's day. Burns's pilgrimage to the Border was a picturesque
+episode in his poetic history. "Yarrow and Tweed to monie a tune owre
+Scotland rings," he wrote, and other lines represent a warm admiration
+for the district. Tweed was a "wimpling stately" stream, and there were
+"Eden scenes on crystal Jed" scarcely less fascinating. James Thomson,
+the poet of the "Seasons," a Tweedsider, though the fact is often
+forgotten, pays grateful homage to the Tweed as the "pure parent-stream,
+whose pastoral banks first heard my Doric reed." Allan Ramsay and Robert
+Crawford, West-country men both, came early under the spell of the
+fair river. Crawford's lines are painted with the usual exaggeration of
+the period:
+
+    "What beauties does Flora disclose!
+      How sweet are her smiles upon Tweed!
+    Yet Mary's, still sweeter than those,
+      Both nature and fancy exceed.
+    No daisy, nor sweet blushing rose,
+      Not all the gay flowers of the field,
+    Not Tweed, gliding gently through those,
+      Such beauty and pleasure does yield."
+
+Hamilton of Bangour, best known for his "Braes of Yarrow," has an autumn
+and winter description of Tweedside which naturally suggests the like
+picture by Scott in the Introduction to Canto I. of "Marmion," and it is
+more than probable that Sir Walter had this in his mind when penning his
+own more perfect lines.
+
+  PLATE 14
+
+  VIEW OF BEWCASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 44, 67, 72_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Robert Fergusson--Burns's "elder brother in the Muses," had his
+imagination fired by the memories of the Border, and was one of the
+first to celebrate that land over which lies the light of so much poetic
+fancy:
+
+    "The Arno and the Tiber lang
+    Hae run full clear in Roman sang;
+    But, save the reverence o' schools!
+    They're baith but lifeless dowy pools,
+    Dought they compare wi' bonny Tweed,
+    As clear as ony lammer-bead?"
+
+Wordsworth, too, sang of the "gentle Tweed, and the green silent
+pastures," though his winsome Three Yarrows is the tie that most endears
+him to the Lowland hearts. Since Scott's day the voices in praise of
+Tweed have been legion. "Who, with a heart and a soul tolerably at ease
+within him, could fail to be happy, hearing as we do now the voice of
+the Tweed, singing his pensive twilight song to the few faint stars that
+have become visible in heaven?" says John Wilson in his rollicking
+"Streams" essay (no "crusty Christopher" there, at any rate). Thomas Tod
+Stoddart, king of angling rhymers,
+
+            "Angled far and angled wide,
+    On Fannich drear, by Luichart's side;
+    Across dark Conan's current,"
+
+and all over Scotland, but found not another stream to match with the
+Tweed:
+
+            "Dearer than all these to me
+    Is sylvan Tweed; each tower and tree
+      That in its vale rejoices;
+    Dearer the streamlets one and all
+    That blend with its Eolian brawl
+      Their own enamouring voices!"
+
+Remember, too, Dr. John Brown's exquisite Tweed's Well meditation, a
+prose sermon to ponder over any Sabbath, and Ruskin's homely reverie--"I
+can never hear the whispering and sighing of the Tweed among his
+pebbles, but it brings back to me the song of my nurse as we used to
+cross by Coldstream Bridge, from the south, in our happy days--
+
+    "For Scotland, my darling, lies full in my view,
+    With her barefooted lasses, and mountains so blue."
+
+One thinks also of George Borrow's fascination for the Scottish Border,
+when he asks ("Lavengro") "Which of the world's streams can Tweed envy,
+with its beauty and renown?" and of Thomas Aird's pathetic
+retrospect--"the ever-dear Tweed, whose waters flow continually through
+my heart, and make me often greet in my lonely evenings." Nor do we
+forget John Veitch, that truest Tweedsman of his time, always musing on
+the Tweed, never at home but beside it, and of whose Romance and History
+there has been no abler exponent.
+
+Of the name Tweed itself, the meaning and origin are uncertain, and it
+is hopeless to dogmatize on the subject except to say that there is an
+apparent connection with the Cymric Tay, Taff, Teith, and Teviot--more
+properly "Teiott," the common pronunciation above Hawick. Mr. Johnston
+("Place-Names of Scotland") traces it to the Celtic _twyad_--"a hemming
+in"--from "_twy_ to check or bind," which is a not unlikely derivation.
+As to the source of the Tweed there is the curious paradox that what
+passes for its source is not the real _fons et origo_ of the stream.
+Poetically, the Tweed is said to take its rise in the tiny Tweed's Well
+among the Southern Highlands, 1250 feet above sea level, and close to
+where the marches of Peeblesshire, Lanarkshire, and Dumfriesshire meet.
+But strictly speaking, the correct source is the Cor or Corse Burn, a
+little higher up, which, dancing its way to the glen beneath, receives
+the outflow of the Well as a sort of first tributary. For purposes of
+romance, however, Tweed's Well will always be reckoned as the source, as
+indeed it must have been so regarded ages ago. The likelihood is that
+Tweed's Well was one of the ancient holy wells common to many parts of
+Scotland. And since tradition speaks of a Mungo's Well somewhere in
+these solitudes, the probability is that we have it here in the heart of
+these silent lonely hills. There is the tradition of a cross, too, at or
+near Tweed's Well, borne out in the place-name Corse, which, we know,
+is good Scots for Cross. That such a symbol of the ancient faith stood
+here long since "to remind travellers of their Redeemer and to guide
+them withal across these desolate moors," is more than a mere
+picturesque legend. It is a prolific watershed this from which Tweed
+starts its seaward race. South and west, Annan and Clyde bend their way
+to the Solway and the Atlantic, as the quaint quatrain has it:
+
+    "Annan, Tweed, and Clyde
+    Rise a' oot o' ae hillside,
+    Tweed ran, Annan wan,
+    Clyde brak his neck owre Corra Linn."
+
+Tweed turns its face to the north, and running for the most part, as old
+Pennecuik puts it, "with a soft yet trotting stream," it pursues a
+course of slightly over a hundred miles, and drains a basin of no less
+than 1870 square miles, a larger area than any other Scottish river
+except the Tay.
+
+  PLATE 15
+
+  VIEW OF MELROSE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 23, 35, 39, 60, 61, 89, 90, 91, 123_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Tweed's Well lies in the bosom of solemn, bare hills. There is nothing
+attractive about the spot. Grey moorlands, riddled with innumerable inky
+peat-bogs, the whaups crying as Stevenson heard them in his dreams, and
+the bleat of an occasional sheep are the chief characteristics. There is
+little heather, and the hills are hardly so shapely as their neighbours
+further down the valley. A first glance is disappointing, but the
+memories of the place are compensation enough. For what a stirring place
+it must have been in the early centuries! Here, as tradition asserts,
+the pagan bard Merlin was converted to Christianity through the
+preaching of the Glasgow Saint Mungo. Here Michael Scot, the "wondrous
+wizard," pursued his mysteries. And even the Flower of Kings himself
+wandered amongst those wilds, "of fresh aventours dreaming." One of his
+twelve battles is claimed for the locality. More historic, perhaps, is
+the picture of the good Sir James of Douglas (red-handed from dirking
+the Comyn) plighting his troth to the Bruce at Ericstane Brae, close to
+Tweed's Well, which latter spot, by the way, Dr. John Brown
+characteristically describes in one of his shorter "Horæ" papers.
+Readers of the "Enterkin" also will remember his reference to the
+mail-coach tragedy of 1831, when MacGeorge and his companion,
+Goodfellow, perished in the snow in a heroic attempt to get the bags
+through to Tweedshaws. At Tweedsmuir, (the name of the parish--disjoined
+from Drumelzier in 1643)--eight miles down, the valley opens somewhat,
+and vegetation properly begins. Of Tweedsmuir Kirk--on the peninsula
+between Tweed and Talla--Lord Cockburn said that it had the prettiest
+situation in Scotland. John Hunter, a Covenant martyr, sleeps in its
+bonnie green kirk-knowe--the only Covenant grave in the Border Counties
+outside Dumfries and Galloway. Talla Linns recalls the conventicle
+mentioned in the "Heart of Midlothian," at which Scott makes Davie Deans
+a silent but much-impressed spectator. In the wild Gameshope Glen, close
+by, Donald Cargill and James Renwick, and others lay oft in hiding. "It
+will be a bloody night this in Gemsop," are the opening words of Hogg's
+fine Covenant tale, the "Brownie of Bodsbeck." The Talla Valley contains
+the picturesque new lake whence Edinburgh draws its augmented water
+supply. Young Hay of Talla was one of Bothwell's "Lambs," and suffered
+death for the Darnley murder. At the Beild--regaining the Tweed--Dr.
+John Ker, one of the foremost pulpiteers of his generation, was born in
+1819. Oliver Castle was the home of the Frasers, Lords of Tweeddale
+before they were Lords of Lovat. The Crook Inn was a noted "howff" in
+the angling excursions of Christopher North and the Ettrick Shepherd.
+Mr. Lang thinks that possibly the name suggested the "Cleikum Inn" of
+"St. Ronan's Well." At the Crook, William Black ends his "Adventures of
+a Phæton" with the climax of all good novels, an avowal of love and a
+happy engagement. Polmood, near by, was the scene of Hogg's lugubrious
+"Bridal of Polmood," seldom read now, one imagines. Kingledoors in two
+of its place-names preserves the memory of Cuthbert and Cristin, the
+Saint and his hermit-disciple. Stanhope was a staunch Jacobite holding,
+one of its lairds being the infamous Murray of Broughton, Prince
+Charlie's secretary, the Judas of the cause. Murray, by the way, was
+discovered in hiding after Culloden at Polmood, the abode of his
+brother-in-law, Michael Hunter. Linkumdoddie has been immortalized in
+Burns's versicles beginning, "Willie Wastle dwalt on Tweed"--a study in
+idiomatic untranslateable Scots. Here is the picture of Willie's wife--a
+philological puzzle.
+
+    "She's bow-hough'd, she's hein-shinn'd,
+    Ae limpin leg a hand-breed shorter;
+    She's twisted right, she's twisted left,
+    To balance fair in ilka quarter;
+    She has a hump upon her breast,
+    The twin o' that upon her shouther;
+    Sic a wife as Willie had,
+    I wadna gie a button for her.
+
+    "Auld bandrons by the ingle sits,
+    An' wi' her loof her face a-washin';
+    But Willie's wife is nae sae trig
+    She dights her grunzie wi' a hushion;
+    Her walie nieves like midden-creels,
+    Her face wad 'fyle the Logan Water;
+    Sic a wife as Willie had,
+    I wadna gie a button for her."
+
+At Drumelzier Castle the turbulent, tyrannical Tweedies reigned in their
+day of might. Of their ghostly origin, the Introduction to the
+"Betrothed" supplies the key. They were constantly at feud with their
+neighbours, specially the Veitches, and were in the Rizzio murder. See
+their history (a work of genuine local interest) written quite recently
+by Michael Forbes Tweedie, a London scion of the clan. In the same
+neighbourhood, the fragment of Tinnis Castle (there is a Tinnis on
+Yarrow, too,) juts out from its bold bluff, not unlike a robber's eyrie
+on the Rhine. Curiously, this is a reputed Ossian scene (see the poem,
+"Calthon and Colmal.") The "blue Teutha," is the Tweed--"Dunthalmo's
+town," Drumelzier. Merlin's Grave, near Drumelzier Kirk, should not be
+forgotten. Bower's "Scotichronicon" narrates the circumstances of his
+death: "On the same day which he foretold he met his death; for certain
+shepherds of a chief of a country called Meldred set upon him with
+stones and staves, and, stumbling in his agony, he fell from a high bank
+of the Tweed, near the town of Drumelzier (the ridge of Meldred), upon a
+sharp stake that the fishers had placed in the waters, and which pierced
+his body through. He was buried near the spot where he expired."
+
+    "Ah! well he loved the Powsail Burn (_i.e._, the burn of the willows)
+    Ah! well he loved the Powsail glen;
+    And there, beside his fountain clear,
+    He soothed the frenzy of his brain.
+
+    Ah! Merlin, restless was thy life,
+    As the bold stream whose circles sweep
+    Mid rocky boulders to its close
+    By thy lone grave, in calm so deep.
+
+    For no one ever loved the Tweed
+    Who was not loved by it in turn;
+    It smiled in gentle Merlin's face,
+    It soughs in sorrow round his bourn."
+
+A prophecy of Thomas the Rhymer--
+
+    "When Tweed and Powsail meet at Merlin's Grave,
+    England and Scotland shall one monarch have,"
+
+is affirmed to have been literally fulfilled on the coronation day of
+James VI. and I. Passing on, we reach the resplendent Dawyck Woods. Here
+are some of the finest larches in the kingdom, the first to be planted
+in Britain, having that honour done them by the great Linnaeus himself,
+it is said. Stobo--semi-Norman and Saxon--was the _plebania_ or
+mother-kirk of half the county. Here lies all that is mortal of Robert
+Hogg, a talented nephew of James Hogg. He was the friend and amanuensis
+of both Scott and Lockhart, whom he assisted in the _Quarterly_.
+Possessed of a keen literary sense, he would almost certainly have taken
+a high place in literature but for the consumption which cut short his
+promising career. (See "Life of Scott," vol. ix). At Happrew, in Stobo
+parish, Wallace is said to have suffered defeat from the English in
+1304. One of the most perfect specimens (recently explored) of a
+Roman Camp is in the Lyne Valley, to the left, a little above the
+Kirk of Lyne. On a height overlooking the Tarth and Lyne frowns the
+massive pile of Drochil, planned by the Red Earl of Morton, who never
+lived to occupy it, or to finish it, indeed, the "Maiden," in 1581,
+cutting short his pleasures, his treacheries and hypocrisies. Now we
+touch the Black Dwarf's Country--in the Manor Valley, to the right.
+Barns Tower, a very complete peel specimen, stands sentinel at the
+entrance to this "sweetest glen of all the South." It is around Barns
+that John Buchan's "John Burnet of Barns" centres. The Black Dwarf's
+grave is at Manor Kirk, and the cottage associated with his misanthropic
+career is also pointed out. Scott, in 1797, visited Manor (Hallyards) at
+his friend Ferguson's, and foregathered with David Ritchie, the
+prototype of one of the least successful and most tedious of his
+characters. (See William Chambers's account of the visit). St. Gordian's
+Cross, mentioned in a previous chapter, is further up the valley, where
+also are the ruins of Posso, a place-name in the "Bride of Lammermoor."
+Presently we come to Neidpath Castle, dominating Peebles, the key to the
+Upper Tweed fastnesses. When or by whom it was built is unknown. In
+1795, it was held by "Old Q," fourth Duke of Queensberry. Wordsworth's
+sonnet on the spoliation of its magnificent woods (an act done to spite
+the heir of entail) stigmatises for all time the memory of one of the
+worst reprobates in history.
+
+  PLATE 16
+
+  MELROSE AND THE
+  EILDONS FROM BEMERSYDE
+  HILL: SCOTT'S
+  FAVOURITE VIEW
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 89 and 123_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Both Scott and Campbell have sung of the unhappy Maid of Neidpath spent
+with grief and disease, waiting her lover on the Castle walls, and
+beholding him ride past all unconscious of her identity.
+
+    "He came--he passed--a heedless gaze,
+      As o'er some stranger glancing;
+    Her welcome, spoke in faltering phrase,
+      Lost in his courser's prancing--
+    The Castle arch whose hollow tone
+      Returns each whisper spoken,
+    Could scarcely catch the feeble moan
+      Which told her heart was broken."
+
+The literary associations of Peebles--a charming township--are
+outstanding. William and Robert Chambers (founders of _Chambers's
+Journal_) were natives. So were Thomas Smibert and John Veitch, poets
+and essayists both. Mungo Park (a Gideon Gray prototype) was the town's
+surgeon for a time--an eternal longing for Africa in his soul. "Meg
+Dods," the best landlady in fiction, was one of its heroines. And
+"Peblis to the Play," probably by James I., is a Scots classic. Traquair
+is poetic ground every foot of it. At its "bonnie bush" how many singers
+have caught inspiration from Crawford of Drumsoy in 1725, to Principal
+Shairp in our own day! Shairp's lyric may well be quoted in full. It is
+by far the finest contribution to modern Border minstrelsy. "Thank ye
+again for this exquisite song; I would rather have been the man to write
+it than Gladstone in all his greatness and goodness," was the exuberant
+"Rab" Brown's compliment to the author:
+
+      "Will ye gang wi' me and fare
+      To the bush aboon Traquair?
+    Owre the high Minchmuir we'll up and awa',
+      This bonny simmer noon,
+      While the sun shines fair aboon,
+    And the licht sklents saftly doun on holm and ha'.
+
+      "And what would you do there,
+      At the bush aboon Traquair?
+    A lang dreich road, ye had better let it be;
+      Save some auld skrunts o' birk
+      I' the hillside lirk,
+    There's nocht i' the warld for man to see.
+
+      "But the blithe lilt o' that air,
+      'The Bush aboon Traquair,'
+    I need nae mair, it's eneuch for me;
+      Owre my cradle its sweet chime,
+      Cam' soughin' frae auld time,
+    Sae tide what may, I'll awa' and see.
+
+      "And what saw ye there
+      At the bush aboon Traquair?
+    Or what did ye hear that was worth your heed?
+      I heard the cushies croon
+      Thro' the gowden afternoon
+    And the Quair burn singing doun to the Vale o' Tweed.
+
+      "And birks saw I three or four,
+      Wi' grey moss bearded owre,--
+    The last that are left o' the birken shaw,
+      Whar mony a simmer e'en
+      Fond lovers did convene,
+    Thae bonny, bonny gloamins that are lang awa'.
+
+      "Frae mony a but and ben,
+      By muirland, holm, and glen,
+    They cam' ane hour to spen' on the greenwood swaird;
+      But lang hae lad an' lass I
+      Been lying 'neth the grass,
+    The green, green grass o' Traquair kirkyard.
+
+      "They were blest beyond compare,
+      When they held their trysting there,
+    Among thae greenest hills shone on by the sun;
+      And then they wan a rest,
+      The lownest and the best,
+    I' Traquair kirkyard when a' was dune.
+
+      "Now the birks to dust may rot,
+      Names o' lovers be forgot,
+    Nae lads and lasses there ony mair convene;
+      But the blithe lilt o' yon air
+      Keeps the bush aboon Traquair,
+    And the love that ance was there, aye fresh and green."
+
+  PLATE 17
+
+  DRYBURGH ABBEY AND
+  SCOTT'S TOMB
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 35, 39, 91, 92, 103_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Traquair House--possibly Scott's Tully-Veolan, "pallid, forlorn,
+stricken all o'er with eld," claims to be the oldest inhabited house in
+Scotland. It certainly looks it. The great gate, flanked with the huge
+Bradwardine Bears, has not been opened since the '45. There seems no
+reason to question the legend. It is not so "foolish" as Mr. Lang
+supposes. Innerleithen, Scott's "St. Ronan's," is near at hand, and the
+peel of Elibank--a mere shell. Harden's marriage to Muckle-mou'ed Meg
+Murray was not quite accounted for in the traditional way, however,--a
+choice between the laird's dule-tree and the laird's unlovely daughter.
+The legend is not uncommon to German folk-lore. At Ashestiel, thrice
+renowned, Scott spent the happiest years of his life (1804-1812),
+writing "Marmion," the "Lady of the Lake," and the first draft of
+"Waverley." In many respects the place is more important to students of
+Scott than Abbotsford itself. Yet for a thousand who rush to Abbotsford
+only a very few find their way up here. Yair, a Pringle house, and
+Fairnalee, comfortable little demesnes, lie further down the Tweed. At
+the latter, Alison Rutherford wrote her version of the "Flowers of the
+Forest"--"I've seen the smiling of Fortune beguiling." Abbotsford was
+Cartley Hole first--not Clarty--which is a mere vulgar play on the
+original. From a small villa about 1811 it has grown to the present
+noble pile. After Scott's day, Mr. Hope Scott did much for the place.
+But it is of Sir Walter that one thinks. What a strenuous life was his
+here! What love he lavished on the very ground that was dear to him--in
+a double sense! And what longing for home during that vain sojourn
+under Italian skies! "To Abbotsford; let us to Abbotsford!"--a desire
+now echoed on ten thousand tongues year by year from all ends of the
+earth. Behind Abbotsford are the Eildons, the "Delectable Mountains" of
+Washington Irving's visit, "three crests against a saffron sky" always
+in vision the wide Border over. Scott said he could stand on the Eildons
+and point out forty-three places famous in war and verse. "Yonder," he
+said, "is Lammermoor and Smailholm; and there you have Galashiels, and
+Torwoodlee, and Gala Water; and in that direction you see Teviotdale and
+the Braes of Yarrow, and Ettrick stream winding along like a silver
+thread to throw itself into the Tweed. It may be pertinacity, but to my
+eye these grey hills, and all this wild Border Country have beauties
+peculiar to themselves. When I have been for some time in the rich
+scenery about Edinburgh which is like ornamented garden land, I begin to
+wish myself back again among my own honest grey hills; and if I did not
+see the heather at least once a year, I think I should die." Melrose is
+the "Kennaquhair" of the "Monastery" and the "Abbot." Its glory, of
+course, is its Abbey, unsurpassed in the beauty of death, but all grace
+fled from its environment. Were it possible to transplant the Abbey
+together with its rich associations to the site of the original
+foundation by the beautiful bend at Bemersyde, Melrose would sit
+enthroned peerless among the shrines of our northern land. Within
+Melrose Abbey, near to the High Altar, the Bruce's heart rests well--its
+fitful flutterings o'er. Here, too, lie the brave Earl Douglas, hero of
+Chevy Chase; Liddesdale's dark Knight--another Douglas; Evers and
+Latoun, the English commanders at Ancrum Moor, that ran so deadly red
+with the blood of their countrymen; and, according to Sir Walter,
+Michael Scot--
+
+    "Buried on St. Michael's night,
+    When the bell toll'd one, and the moon shone bright,
+    Whose chamber was dug among the dead,
+    When the floor of the chancel was stained red."
+
+One is not surprised at Scott's love for Melrose. As the grandest
+ecclesiastical ruin in the country, it must be seen to be understood.
+Mere description counts for little in dealing with such a subject. Every
+window, arch, cloister, corbel, keystone, door-head and buttress of this
+excellent example of mediæval Gothic is a study in itself--all
+elaborately carved, yet no two alike. The sculpture is unequalled both
+in symmetry and in variety, embracing some of the loveliest specimens of
+floral tracery and the most quaint and grotesque representations
+imaginable. The great east oriel is its most imposing feature. But the
+south doorway and the chaste wheeled window above it are equally superb.
+For what is regarded as the finest view of the building, let us stand
+for a little at the north-east corner, not far from the grave of Scott's
+faithful factotum, Tom Purdie. Here the _coup d'oeil_ is very
+striking; and the contour of the ruins is realised to its full. Or if it
+be preferred, let us look at the pile beneath the lee light o' the
+moon--the conditions recommended in the "Lay."
+
+    "If thou would'st view fair Melrose aright,
+    Go visit it by the pale moonlight;
+    For the gay beams of lightsome day
+    Gild, but to flout, the ruins grey.
+    When the broken arches are black in night,
+    And each shafted oriel glimmers white,
+    When the cold light's uncertain shower
+    Streams on the ruined central tower;
+    When buttress and buttress, alternately,
+    Seem framed of ebon and ivory;
+    When silver edges the imagery,
+    And the scrolls that teach thee to live and die;
+    When distant Tweed is heard to rave,
+    And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave,
+    Then go--but go alone the while--
+    Then view St. David's ruined pile;
+    And, home returning, soothly swear
+    Was never scene so sad and fair!"
+
+Three inscriptions--one inside, two in the churchyard, are worth halting
+by. "HEIR LYIS THE RACE OF YE HOVS OF ZAIR," touches many hearts with
+its simple pathos. "The Lord is my Light," is the expressive text
+(self-chosen) on Sir David Brewster's tomb--the greatest master of
+optics in his day; and the third, covering the remains of a former
+Melrose schoolmaster was frequently on the lips of Scott:
+
+    "The earth goeth on the earth,
+      Glist'ring like gold,
+    The earth goes to the earth
+      Sooner than it wold.
+    The earth builds on the earth
+      Castles and towers,
+    The earth says to the earth
+      All shall be ours."
+
+If half the grace of Melrose is lost by reason of its environment, the
+situation of Dryburgh is queenly enough. It is assuredly the most
+picturesque monastic ruin in Great Britain. Scott's is the all-absorbing
+name, and as a matter of fact he would himself have become by
+inheritance the laird of Dryburgh, but for the financial folly of a
+spendthrift grand-uncle. "The ancient patrimony," he tells us, "was sold
+for a trifle, and my father, who might have purchased it with ease, was
+dissuaded by my grandfather from doing so, and thus we have nothing left
+of Dryburgh but the right of stretching our bones there." So here, the
+two Sir Walters, the two Lady Scotts, and Lockhart, await the breaking
+light of morn. Dryburgh, be it noted, is in Berwickshire--in Mertoun
+parish, where (at Mertoun House) Scott wrote the "Eve of St. John." Not
+far off is Sandyknowe (not Smailholm, as it is generally designated)
+Tower, the scene of the ballad, and the cradle of Scott's childhood,
+where there awoke within him the first real consciousness of life, and
+where he had his first impressions of the wondrously enchanted land that
+lay within the comparatively small circle of the Border Country. Ruined
+Roxburgh, between Tweed's and Teviot's flow, and the palatial Floors
+Castle represent the best of epochs old and new, and even more than in
+Scott's halcyon school days is Kelso the "Queen of the South Countrie."
+Coldstream, lying in sylvan loveliness on the left bank of the Tweed--a
+noble river here--has been the scene of many a memorable crossing from
+both countries from the time of Edward I. to the Covenanting struggle.
+So near the Border, Coldstream had at one time a considerable notoriety
+for its runaway marriages, the most notable of which was Lord Brougham's
+in 1819. Within an easy radius of Coldstream are Wark Castle, the mere
+site of it rather--where in 1344 Edward III. instituted the Order of the
+Garter; Twizel Bridge, with its single Gothic arch, cleverly crossed
+by Surrey and his men (it is the identical arch) at Flodden, that
+darkest of all dark fields for Scotland,
+
+    "Where shivered was fair Scotland's spear,
+    And broken was her shield."
+
+Of Norham Castle, frowning like Carlisle, to the North, and set down as
+it were to over-awe a kingdom, Scott's description is always the best.
+Ladykirk Church was built by James IV. in gratitude for his escape from
+drowning while fording the Tweed. Last of all, we reach Berwick, at one
+period the chief seaport in Scotland--a "second Alexandria," as was
+said, now the veriest shadow of its former self. Christianized towards
+the close of the fourth century, according to Bede, as a place rich in
+churches, monasteries and hospitals, Berwick held high rank in the
+ecclesiastical world. Its geographical position, too, as a frontier town
+made it the Strasburg for which contending armies were continually in
+conflict. Century after century its history was one red record of strife
+and bloodshed. Its walls, like its old Bridge spanning the Tweed, were
+built in Elizabeth's reign, and its Royal Border Bridge, opened to
+traffic in 1850, was happily characterised by Robert Stephenson, its
+builder, as the "last act of the Union."
+
+  PLATE 18
+
+  THE REMNANT OF
+  WARK CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39 and 92_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+IV. "PLEASANT TEVIOTDALE"
+
+
+Ettrick and Yarrow between them comprise most of Selkirkshire. The
+Teviot and Jed are the main arteries running through Roxburghshire, or
+Teviotdale, as was the ancient designation, colloquially Tividale and
+Tibbiedale. On the source-to-mouth principle--the most natural and the
+most instructive--the best approach into Teviotdale is by way of
+Langholm, locally _the_ Langholm, pleasantly situated on the
+Dumfriesshire Esk, at the junction of the Ewes and Wauchope Waters. In
+the fine pastoral valley of the Ewes--the Yarrow of Dumfriesshire--we
+pass several places of note before striking Teviothead and the main
+course of the Teviot. At Wrae, William Knox, author of "The Lonely
+Hearth," and writer of the stanzas on "Mortality," so constantly quoted
+by Abraham Lincoln, had his home for a time. George Gilfillan, no mean
+judge, characterises him as the best sacred poet in Scotland. Further on
+is the birth-spot of another well-known singer, Henry Scott Riddell,
+whose patriotic "Scotland Yet" has won its way to the ends of the earth,
+wherever Scotsmen gather. At Unthank Kirkyard--none more lonely save St.
+Mary's on Yarrow, perhaps--we examine the graves of the hospitable and
+kindly Elliots of "Dandie Dinmont" immortality. Mosspaul Inn, lately
+restored, is close to the boundary between the two counties. From the
+Wisp Hill (1950 feet) the view on a clear day from Carlisle in the south
+to the distant north, is one to be remembered. The Wordsworths were at
+Mosspaul in 1803, and Dorothy's description is still fairly correct:
+"The scene with its single dwelling, was melancholy and wild, but not
+dreary, though there was no tree nor shrub; the small streamlet
+glittered, the hills were populous with sheep; but the gentle bending of
+the valley and the correspondent softness in the forms of the hills were
+of themselves enough to delight the eye. The whole of the Teviot and the
+pastoral steeps about Mosspaul pleased us exceedingly."
+
+  PLATE 19
+
+  BERWICK-ON-TWEED
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 43, 49, 63, 93_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At Teviothead we touch the Teviot proper. The upper basin of the Teviot
+is mainly a barren vale, flanked by lofty rounded hills. For a greater
+distance it is a strip of alluvial plain, screened by terraced banks
+clad with the rankest vegetation, and with long stretches of undulating
+dale-land, and overhung at from three to eight miles by terminating
+heights, and in its lower reaches it is a richly variegated champaign
+country, possessing all the luxuriance without any of the tameness of a
+fertile plain, and stretching away in resulting loveliness to the
+picturesque Eildons on the one hand and the dome-like Cheviots on the
+other. Teviothead, formerly Carlanrigg, is full of traditionary lore.
+Teviot Stone, extinct now, a landmark for centuries--its position being
+marked on some of our earliest maps--recalls Scott's favourite lines
+from the "Lay," imprinted on the Selkirk monument:
+
+    "By Yarrow's streams, still let me stray,
+    Though none should guide my feeble way;
+    Still feel the breeze down Ettrick break,
+    Although it chill my withered cheek;
+    Still lay my head by Teviot Stone,
+    Though there, forgotten and alone,
+    The Bard may draw his parting groan."
+
+Teviothead Churchyard contains the graves of Johnie Armstrong of
+Gilnockie, and his gallants. James V. (a mere boy-king at the time)
+never planned a more despicable or more atrocious deed than the betrayal
+and summary execution of this most picturesque of the freebooters. And
+posterity has never forgiven him. Nor can it. Scott's "Minstrelsy"
+ballad commemorating the incident is far and away the most dramatic of
+its kind, Johnie's scathing answer to the King being specially
+characteristic:
+
+    "To seik het water beneith cauld ice,
+    Surely it is a greit follie;
+    I have asked grace at a graceless face,
+    But there is nane for my men and me!"
+
+There is a tradition that the trees on which they were hanged became
+immediately blasted; and Scott, in parting with the Wordsworths directed
+them to look about for "some old stumps of trees," but "we could not
+find them," adds Miss Wordsworth. Hard by are the graves of Scott
+Riddell and his third son, William, a youth of remarkable promise.
+Teviothead Cottage, where Riddell resided till his death in 1870, is
+passed on the left. The church in which he preached (he was in charge of
+the then preaching station here) is now the parish school, and his
+monument, like a huge candle extinguisher, crowns the neighbouring
+Dryden Knowes. Still keeping to the Teviot, now a fair-sized stream,
+rich in the variety and beauty of its scenery--
+
+    "Pleasant Teviotdale, a land
+    Made blithe by plough and harrow"--
+
+we pass Gledsnest and Colterscleuch, figuring in the well-known "Jamie
+Telfer" ballad; Commonside, mentioned in "Kinmont Willie";
+Northhouse, Teindside, Harwood, and Broadhaugh, snug farms all, till the
+hamlet of Newmill is reached, the quarrel scene between the "jovial
+harper" of the "Lay" and "Sweet Milk," "Bard of Reull," in which the
+latter was slain:
+
+    "On Teviot's side, in fight they stood,
+    And tuneful hands were stained with blood,
+    Where still the thorn's white branches wave
+    Memorial o'er his rival's grave."
+
+Allan Cunningham's version of "Rattlin', Roarin' Willie" should be read
+in this connection. Branxholme (poetically Branksome) is a particularly
+interesting portion of the Teviot valley. Its Braes recall the old
+ditty:
+
+    "As I came in by Teviot side
+    And by the Braes of Branksome,
+    There first I saw my bonnie bride,
+    Young, smiling, sweet, and handsome."
+
+And looming up before us is the massive white pile of Branxholme itself,
+the master-fort of the Teviot, and the key of the pass between the Tweed
+basin and Merrie Carlisle. The Castle occupies a strong position, has
+been much modernised, and is now a residence for Buccleuch's
+Chamberlain. Up to 1756, it was the chief seat of the Buccleuch family.
+Branxholme's main glory, however, is not its past history, or the pomp
+and circumstance surrounding it in the hey-day of its power. If there
+was "another Yarrow" to Wordsworth, there is "another Branxholme" to us.
+It is not the memory of the fighting barons of Buccleuch, with their
+tumultuous raids and unending quarrels, which draws the pilgrim's feet
+to Branxholme's Tower, but the memory of events which the imagination
+of the Minstrel has conjured up, and which have made for themselves a
+local habitation and a name. For here Scott placed the leading incidents
+of the "Lay,"--the first and finest of his Border efforts:
+
+    "Nine-and-twenty knights of fame
+    Hung their shields in Branksome Hall,
+    Nine-and-twenty squires of name
+    Brought them their steeds to bower from stall."
+
+From Branxholme to the russet-grey Peel of Goldielands is scarcely two
+miles. Minus gables or parapet now, and standing among the haystacks and
+buildings of a farm, it is still in tolerable preservation. Here dwelt
+amongst others of its old heroes, "the Laird's Wat, that worthie man,"
+who led the Scots at the Reidswire in 1575. Not improbably is
+Goldielands the peel associated with Willie of Westburnflat's operations
+in the "Black Dwarf." At Goldielands Gate one gets a fine view to the
+right of the Borthwick valley,
+
+    "Where Bortha hoarse that loads the meads with sand,
+    Rolls her red tide to Teviot's western stand."
+
+And up the Borthwick, a mile or two, on its steep bank sits Harden, a
+place of more than ordinary note to the Scott student. Here Auld Wat,
+Sir Walter's grandsire seven times removed, reigned a king among Border
+reivers, whose deeds of derring-do have been long shrined by the
+balladists, and graven deep on the tablets of memory. Hawick, the
+Glasgow of the Borders, comes next in sight,--where Slitrig and Teviot
+meet. An ancient town, but possessing few relics of antiquity, except
+St. Mary's Church, and the Tower Inn, a dwelling of the Drumlanrig
+Douglases, with the mysterious Moat "where Druid shades still flitted
+round." The modernity of the place is, however, lost sight of annually
+in the "riding of the marches," a custom which prevails also in Selkirk
+and Langholm. It is the great public festival of the year, and dates
+from time immemorial. Its memories are mostly of Flodden, and the brave
+stand at Hornshole in the neighbourhood, the year after. The Flodden
+flag, splendidly "bussed," is carried in civic and cornetal procession
+with crowds continually singing--as only Teridom can--the rousing
+martial air of "Teribus," the Hawick slogan, which expresses more than
+any other the wild and defiant strain of the war-trump and the
+battle-shout. Hawick, including Wilton, has several elegantly
+architectured buildings, over a score of Tweed mills and factories,
+seventeen churches, and boasts a population of nearly twenty thousand.
+
+From Hawick to Kelso the distance is 21 miles, with a finely undulating
+road all through. The railway journey _via_ St. Boswells is about double
+the distance. Our way lies through some of the most storied scenery in
+the Lowlands. The names on the map will give us an idea of the
+exceedingly romantic character of this second half of the Teviot. Here
+we come into touch with such song-haunted tributaries as the Jed and
+Oxnam, the Rule and Kale, and Ale, and with many of the great houses
+whose history has contributed more than any other to the making of the
+Border Country. The names of Scott and Ker, Elliot and Douglas, Turnbull
+and Riddell are patent to every parish through which we pass. At Minto,
+the home of the Elliots and seat of the present Indian Viceroy, one is
+reminded of the distinguished place which that family has held both in
+the stormy and in the more peaceful times of Border story. Here Jean
+Elliot wrote the "Flowers of the Forest," and Thomas Campbell his
+"Lochiel's Warning." From Minto Crags, crowned with Fatlips Castle and
+Barnhill's Bed, (729 feet) there is no more pleasing prospect in the
+Borderland. The windings of the Teviot are traceable for miles, the
+Liddesdale and Dumfriesshire heights hemming in the view on one side,
+and the blue Cheviots on the other. Ruberslaw rises immediately in
+front, with Denholm Dene on the right, and the narrow bed of the "mining
+Rule" on the left, while behind to the north are distinctly seen the
+three-coned Eildons, Earlston Black Hill, Scott's Sandyknowe, Hume
+Castle, and the wavy line of the Lammermoors. Hassendean (suggesting
+"Jock o' Hazeldean") Cavers, a Douglas house, where the pennon of the
+great Earl, and the Percy gauntlets are still shown; Denholm, Leyden's
+birthplace, Henlawshiel and Kirkton, scenes in his boyhood, lie all in
+the neighbourhood. Dr. Chalmers was for a time assistant in Cavers Kirk,
+and in later life delighted to recall his connection with the Border
+district. Adjoining Minto, Ancrum stands bonnie on Ale Water--a village
+of considerable antiquity. Its Cross, dating from David I.'s time, is
+one of the best-preserved of the market-crosses of the Border. Ancrum
+was the birthplace of Dr. William Buchan of "Domestic Medicine"
+celebrity, and John Livingston, its minister during the Covenant, was a
+man of mark and piety in his day. The place naturally suggests Ancrum
+Moor, a mile or two to the north-west, one of the last great
+battlefields of the international struggle. In February, 1544, an
+English army under Sir Ralph Evers and Sir Brian Latoun desolated the
+Scottish frontier as far north as Melrose, defacing the Douglas tombs in
+the abbey. On returning with their booty towards Jedburgh, they were
+overtaken at Ancrum Moor, and severely beaten by a Scottish force led by
+the Earl of Angus and Scott of Buccleuch. In this battle, according to
+tradition, fought Maiden Lilliard, a brave Scotswoman from Maxton, who
+fell beneath many wounds and was buried on the spot. Her grave, in the
+midst of a thick fir-wood, carries the somewhat doggerel epitaph:
+
+    "Fair Maiden Lilliard
+    Lies under this stane;
+    Little was her stature,
+    But muckle was her fame
+    Upon the English loons
+    She laid monie thumps,
+    An' when her legs were cuttit off,
+    She fought upon her stumps."[C]
+
+[C] An attempt has been made to discredit this story by an appeal to the
+antiquity of the place-name, which is admittedly much earlier than
+Lilliard's day. This, however, does not dispose of the tradition. The
+likelihood is that originally the first line was really "the Fair Maid
+_of_ Lilliard."
+
+The monument has been frequently restored. Lady John Scott made the last
+repairing touches, adding the words:
+
+    "To A' TRUE SCOTSMEN.
+    By me it's been mendit,
+    To your care I commend it."
+
+  PLATE 20
+
+  HOLLOWS TOWER
+  (SOMETIMES CALLED
+  GILNOCKIE TOWER)
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 72 and 96_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Jed, joining the Teviot close to Jedfoot Station, reminds us that
+the county town of Roxburgh--Jedburgh--is within easy access, and the
+fascinating valley of the Jed which Burns so vigorously extolled. The
+Jed takes its rise between Needslaw and Carlintooth on the Liddesdale
+Border. Its general course is east and north, and its length about
+seventeen miles. The places of chief interest on its banks are
+Southdean, where the Scottish chiefs assembled previous to Otterburn,
+and where the poet Thomson spent his boyhood; Old Jedworth, the original
+township, a few grassy mounds marking the spot; Ferniherst Castle, a Ker
+stronghold; Lintalee, the site of a Douglas camp described in Barbour's
+"Bruce;" the Capon Tree, a thousand years old, one of the last survivors
+of "Jedworth's forest wild and free;" and the Hundalee hiding caves. The
+charm of Jedburgh consists in its old-world character and its
+semi-Continental touches. Its fine situation early attracted the notice
+of the Scottish Kings, though Bishop Ecfred of Lindisfarne is believed
+to have been its true founder. He could not have chosen a more sweet or
+appropriate nook for his little settlement. Nestling in the quiet
+valley, and creeping up the ridge of the Dunion, the song of the river
+ever in its ears, freshened by the scent of garden and orchard, and
+surrounded by finely-wooded heights, Nature has been lavish in filling
+with new adornments, as years sped by, a spot always bright and fair.
+
+    "O softly Jed! thy sylvan current lead
+    Round every hazel copse and smiling mead,
+    Where lines of firs the glowing landscape screen,
+    And crown the heights with tufts of deeper green."
+
+The modern beauty of the place notwithstanding, Jedburgh's history has
+been a singularly troubled one. As a frontier town and the first place
+of importance north of the Cheviots, it was naturally a scene of strife
+and bloodshed. Around it lay the famous Jed Forest, rivalling that of
+Ettrick. The inhabitants were brave warriors, and noted for the skill
+with which they wielded the Jeddart staff or Jedwood axe. Their presence
+at the Reidswire decided that skirmish in favour of the Scottish
+Borderers:
+
+    "Then rose the slogan wi' ane shout,
+    Fye, Tynedale, to it! Jeddart's here."
+
+And at Flodden the men from the glens of the Jed were conspicuous for
+their heroism. Jedburgh Abbey is the chief "lion" of the locality.
+Completer than Kelso and Dryburgh, and simpler and more harmonious than
+Melrose, it stands in the most delightful of situations, girt about with
+well-kept gardens, overlooking the bosky banks of the Jed--a veritable
+poem in Nature and Art. Queen Mary's House (restored) the scene of her
+all but mortal illness in 1566 is still existing, and well worth a
+visit. The literary associations of the burgh are more than local. James
+Thomson was a pupil at its Grammar School. Burns was made a burgess
+during his Border tour in 1787. Scott made his first appearance as a
+criminal counsel at Jedburgh, pleading successfully for his poacher
+client. The Wordsworths visited Jedburgh in 1803. Sir David Brewster and
+Mary Somerville were natives, and here the "Scottish Probationer" lived
+and died. Samuel Rutherford was born at Crailing, the next parish, where
+also David Calderwood, the Kirk historian, was minister. Cessford
+Castle, in Eckford parish, was the residence of the redoubtable "Habbie
+Ker," ancestor of the Dukes of Roxburghe. Marlefield, "where Kale
+wimples clear 'neath the white-blossomed slaes," is a supposed scene
+(erroneous) of the "Gentle Shepherd." Yetholm, on the Bowmont, near the
+Great Cheviot, has been the headquarters of Scottish gypsydom since the
+17th century. Opposite Floors Castle, at the confluence of the Tweed and
+Teviot is the green tree-clad mound with a few crumbling walls, all that
+remains of the illustrious Castle of Roxburgh, one of the strongest on
+the Borders, the birthplace and abode of kings, and parliaments, and
+mints, and so often a bone of bitter contention between Scots and
+English. The town itself, the most important on the Middle Marches, has
+entirely disappeared, its site and environs forming now some of the most
+fertile fields in the county:
+
+    "Roxburgh! how fallen, since first, in Gothic pride,
+    Thy frowning battlements the war defied,
+    Called the bold chief to grace thy blazoned halls,
+    And bade the rivers gird thy solid walls!
+    Fallen are thy towers; and where the palace stood,
+    In gloomy grandeur waves yon hanging wood.
+    Crushed are thy halls, save where the peasant sees
+    One moss-clad ruin rise between the trees;
+    The still green trees, whose mournful branches wave
+    In solemn cadence o'er the hapless grave.
+    Proud castle! fancy still beholds thee stand,
+    The curb, the guardian, of this Border land;
+    As when the signal flame that blazed afar,
+    And bloody flag, proclaimed impending war,
+    While in the lion's place the leopard frowned,
+    And marshalled armies hemmed thy bulwarks round."
+
+  PLATE 21
+
+  GOLDILANDS NEAR
+  HAWICK
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 98, 99_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+V. IN THE BALLAD COUNTRY
+
+
+To a shepherd in Canada Dr. Norman Macleod is said to have remarked,
+"What a glorious country this is!" "Ay," said the man, "it is a very
+good country." "And such majestic rivers!" "Oh, ay," was all the reply.
+"And such good forests!" "Ay, but there are nae linties in the woods,
+and nae braes like Yarrow!" Of course, the answer was from a purely
+exile point of view, but even to those of the Old Country the name of
+Yarrow wields the most wondrous fascination. Like Tweed, Yarrow is known
+everywhere, for who has not heard of its "Dowie Dens," or of its lovers'
+tragedies? Certainly no stream has been more besung. The name is
+redolent of all that is most pathetic in Border poetry. This is the
+centre of the Border ballad country--the birthplace, or, at all events,
+the nursing-ground of a romance than which there is none richer or more
+extensive on either side of the Border. The Yarrow is the Scottish
+Rhine-land on a small scale, even more so than the Tweed. Tweedside,
+indeed, has not a tithe of Yarrow's ballad wealth, and the Tweed ballads
+and folk-lore are absolutely different in respect both of subject-matter
+and of manner. The curious feature about Yarrow is the wonderful
+sameness which characterises the whole of its minstrelsy. For hundreds
+of years that has been so. Sadness is the uppermost note that is
+sounded. All through we are face to face with a feeling of dejection as
+remarkable as it is common. One could have understood a stray effusion
+or so couched in this strain, but for an entire minstrelsy to breathe
+such a spirit is extraordinary. Why should Yarrow be the
+personification, as it were, of a grief and a melancholy that nothing
+seems able to assuage? Is there anything in the scenery to account for
+it--anything in the physical conditions of the glen itself that solves
+the secret? There is, and there isn't. To a mere outsider--a mere summer
+tripper hurrying through--Yarrow is little different from others of the
+southland valleys. Its main features are identical with those of the
+Ettrick, and the Tweed uplands, or with the Ewes and the Teviot. All of
+them exhibit the same pastoral stillness. The same play of light and
+shade are on their hills. The same soothing spirit broods over them. But
+of Yarrow alone it is the element of sadness that prevails. To
+understand this, one has to _live_ in Yarrow--to come under the
+influence of its environment. And whether it be fancy or not, whether it
+be the result of one's reading, and of one's pre-conceived notions of
+the place, the Yarrow landscape does lend itself to the realisation of
+that feeling which the ballads so well portray. The configuration of the
+glen as seen especially from a little above Yarrow Manse--the "Dowie
+Dens" of popular tradition--together with its climatic conditions, may
+very easily interpret for us the spirit of those old singers. Here, if
+anywhere in the valley, the answer to the Yarrow enigma will be found.
+Professor Veitch thinks that the whole district affords such an answer:
+"Nor will anyone," he says, "who is familiar with the Vale of Yarrow
+have had much difficulty in understanding how it is suited to pathetic
+verse. The rough and broken, yet clear, beautiful, and wide-spreading
+stream has no grand cliffs to show; and it is not surrounded by high and
+overshadowing hills. Here and there it flows placidly, reflectively, in
+large liquid lapses, through an open valley of the deepest summer green;
+still, let us be thankful, in its upper reaches at least, mantled by
+nature and untouched by plough and harrow. There is a placid monotone
+about its bare treeless scenery--an unbroken pastoral stillness on the
+sloping braes and hillsides, as they rise, fall, and bend in a uniformly
+deep colouring. The silence of the place is forced upon the attention,
+deepened even by the occasional break in the flow of the stream, or by
+the bleating of the sheep that, white and motionless amid the pasture,
+dot the knowes. We are attracted by the silence, and we are also
+depressed. There is the pleasure of hushed enjoyment. The spirit of the
+scene is in those immortal lines:--
+
+    "Meek loveliness is round thee spread
+      A softness still and holy;
+    The grace of Forest charms decayed
+      And pastoral melancholy."
+
+Those deep green grassy knowes of the valley are peculiarly susceptible
+of change. In the morning with a blue sky, or with breaks of sunlight
+through the fleeting clouds, the green hillsides and the stream smile
+and gleam in sympathy with the cheerfulness of heaven. But under a grey
+sky, or at the gloaming, the Yarrow wears a peculiarly wan aspect--a
+look of sadness. And no valley I know is more susceptible of sudden
+change. The spirit of the air can speedily weave out of the mists that
+gather upon the massive hills at the heads of the Megget and the Talla,
+a wide-spreading web of greyish cloud--the 'skaum' of the sky--that
+casts a gloom over the under green of the hills; and dims the face of
+loch and stream in a pensive shadow. The saddened heart would readily
+find there fit analogue and nourishment for its sorrow. Which is all
+very true. But, as has been said, Tweed and Teviot show exactly these
+conditions, and what of their minstrelsy remains is not touched with
+this strangely morose sense. May not the solution lie in the very legend
+of the "Dowie Dens" itself, and in the remarkable cup-like configuration
+of the valley as seen from the point already indicated and under the wan
+aspects which are admittedly a distinctive feature of the Yarrow at all
+seasons of the year? Out of this have emerged very probably the spirit
+of the balladists and their ballads. One after another have simply
+followed suit, and the likelihood is that had gladness and not gloom
+been the burden of some far back strain, we should not have had the
+Yarrow we possess to-day. Men of the most diverse temperaments have come
+under the sad spell of the Yarrow. The most lighthearted sons of song
+have succumbed to the general feeling. Wordsworth himself would have
+preferred to strike another note, but the enchantment of the spot held
+him fast:
+
+    "O that some Minstrel's harp were near
+      To utter notes of gladness,
+    And chase this silence from the air,
+      That fills my heart with sadness!"
+
+All the verse writers of the last century were mere continuators of
+their fellow-bards centuries before. There are, to be sure, some
+flippant spirits who would dare to alter the very atmosphere of Yarrow,
+but what a poor attempt at the impossible! Yarrow must ever abide the
+embodiment of the most heart-piercing, and at the same time, the most
+winsome melody the world has listened to.
+
+Popularly speaking, the best of the Yarrow ballads concerns itself with
+the famous "Dowie Dens" tragedy, of which there seems to be some
+authentic reference in the Selkirk Presbytery Record for 1616. It is
+there narrated how Walter Scott of Tushielaw made "an informal and
+inordinate marriage with Grizell Scott of Thirlestane without consent of
+her father." Just three months later, the same Record contains entry of
+a summons to Simeon Scott, of Bonytoun, an adherent of Thirlestane, and
+three other Scotts "to compear at Melrose to hear themselves
+excommunicated for the horrible slaughter of Walter Scott." We have here
+probably the precise incident on which the unknown "makar" founded his
+crude but intensely picturesque and dramatic lay. How much of womanly
+winsomeness and heroism, of knightly dignity and daring, and the
+unconquerable strength of love are portrayed in the following stanzas!
+There are, indeed, few ballads in any language that match its strains:
+
+    "She kiss'd his cheek, she kaim'd his hair,
+      As oft she had done before, O;
+    She belted him with his noble brand,
+      And he's away to Yarrow.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "'If I see all, ye're nine to ane;
+      And that's an unequal marrow;
+    Yet will I fight, while lasts my brand,
+      On the bonnie banks of Yarrow.'
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Four has he hurt, and five has slain;
+      On the bloody braes of Yarrow,
+    Till that stubborn knight came him behind,
+      And ran his body thorough.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Yestreen I dream'd a dolefu' dream;
+      I fear there will be sorrow!
+    I dream'd I pu'd the heather green
+      Wi' my true love on Yarrow.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "She kiss'd his cheek, she kaimed his hair;
+      She search'd his wounds all thorough;
+    She kiss'd them till her lips grew red,
+      On the dowie houms of Yarrow."
+
+A fragment of rare beauty, believed to be based on the same incident
+(unlikely however) was one of Scott's special favourites. Rather does it
+shrine a similar tragedy, one of many such which must have been common
+enough in those troubled and lawless times. How melting is the pathos of
+the following verses, for instance!
+
+    "Willie's rare and Willie's fair,
+      And Willie's wondrous bonny,
+    And Willie's hecht to marry me,
+      Gin e'er he married ony.
+
+    "Yestreen I made my bed fu' braid,
+      This night I'll make it narrow,
+    For a' the livelong winter night,
+      I'll lie twin'd of my marrow.
+
+    She sought him east, she sought him west,
+      She sought him braid and narrow;
+    Syne, in the cleaving of a craig
+      She found him drown'd in Yarrow.
+
+Somewhat akin is the "Lament of the Border Widow," located at
+Henderland, in Meggetdale, not far from St. Mary's Loch. In the preface
+to this ballad in the "Minstrelsy," Scott states that it was "obtained
+from recitation in the Forest of Ettrick, and is said to relate to the
+execution of Cockburn of Henderland, a Border freebooter, hanged over
+the gate of his own tower by James V. in the course of that memorable
+expedition in 1529 which was fatal to Johnie Armstrong, Adam Scott of
+Tushielaw, and many other marauders." The grave of "Perys of Cockburne
+and hys wyfe Marjory" on a wooded knoll at Henderland, is still pointed
+out. But the historicity of the ballad has been questioned from the
+statement (which seems to be correct) that Cockburn was actually
+executed at Edinburgh, instead of at his own home. There is no evidence,
+however, to assume that the ballad commemorates this particular
+occurrence or that it has any connection with the grave referred to. For
+genuine balladic merit it will be difficult to match:
+
+    My love he built me a bonny bower,
+    And clad it a' wi' lilye flower,
+    A brawer bower ye ne'er did see
+    Than my true love he built for me.
+
+    There came a man, by middle day
+    He spied his sport, and went away,
+    And brought the King that very night,
+    Who brake my bower and slew my knight.
+
+    He slew my knight, to me sae dear;
+    He slew my knight, and poin'd his gear;
+    My servants all for life did flee,
+    And left me in extremitie.
+
+    I sewed his sheet, making my mane;
+    I watched the corpse myself alane;
+    I watch'd his body night and day;
+    No living creature came that way.
+
+    I took his body on my back,
+    And whiles I gaed, and whiles I sat;
+    I digg'd a grave, and laid him in,
+    And happ'd him with the sod sae green.
+    But think na ye my heart was sair,
+    When I laid the moul' on his yellow hair;
+    O think na ye my heart was wae,
+    When I turned about away to gae?
+
+    Nae living man I'll love again,
+    Since that my lovely knight is slain,
+    Wi ae lock of his yellow hair,
+    I'll chain my heart for evermair.
+
+  PLATE 22
+
+  "HE PASS'D WHERE
+  NEWARK'S STATELY
+  TOWER LOOKS OUT
+  FROM YARROW'S
+  BIRCHEN BOWER"
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 116_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One might speak, too, of the "Douglas Tragedy," the scene of which is
+laid in the Douglas Glen, in the heart of the quiet hills forming the
+watershed betwixt Tweed and Yarrow. Here lived the "Good Sir
+James"--Bruce's right-hand man, who strove to carry his heart to the
+Holy Land. It was from this Tower at Blackhouse that Margaret the Fair
+was carried off by her lover, and about a mile further up on the
+hillside the seven stones marking the spot where Lord William alighted
+and slew the Lady's seven brothers in full pursuit of the pair, are
+objects of curious interest. This ballad, it is interesting to note, is
+one widely diffused throughout Europe, being specially rich in Danish,
+Icelandic, Norse, and Swedish collections. Indeed, almost all the Yarrow
+ballads--and many others--are common to Continental _volks-lieder_, and
+are found in extraordinary profusion from Iceland to the Peloponesus.
+Here is evidence, by no means slight, of the theory that ballads
+originate from a common stock, and that in the course of ages they have
+simply become transplanted and localized. Then the Yarrow valley
+contains the scene of the "Song of the Outlaw Murray"--a distinctively
+Border production (74 verses in all) composed during the reign of James
+V. Murray divides with Johnie Armstrong the honour of being the Border
+Robin Hood, but to Murray a very different treatment was meted out.
+The Outlaw's lands at Hangingshaw and elsewhere were his own, though he
+held them minus a title. James fumed at this, and determined to bring
+the Forest chief to submission:
+
+    "The King of Scotland sent me here,
+      And, gude Outlaw, I am sent to thee;
+    I wad wot of how ye hald your lands,
+      O man, wha may thy master be?"
+
+    "Thir lands are MINE! the Outlaw said:
+      I ken nae King in Christendie;
+    Frae England I this Forest won
+      When the King and his knights were not to see."
+
+Upon which the King's Commissioner assures the Outlaw that it will be
+worse for him if he fails to give heed to the royal desire:
+
+    "Gif ye refuse to do this
+      He'll compass baith thy lands and thee;
+    He hath vow'd to cast thy castle down
+      And mak a widow of thy gay lady."
+
+But Murray is defiant, and James is equally resolved to crush him.
+Friends are pressed into the Outlaw's service, and very soon he has a
+goodly number of troopers all ready to render service in the hour of
+their kinsman's need, well knowing that in aiding him they would be
+doing the best thing for themselves, as "landless men they a' wad be" if
+the King got his own way in Ettrick Forest. But, like all good ballads,
+this, too, ends happily. A compromise is effected, by which the Outlaw
+obtains the post he had long coveted--Sheriff of the Forest:
+
+    "He was made Sheriff of Ettrick Forest,
+      Surely while upward grows the tree;
+    And if he was na traitour to the King,
+      Forfaulted he should never be.
+
+    "Wha ever heard, in ony times,
+      Siccan an Outlaw in his degree
+    Sic favour get before a King
+      As the Outlaw Murray of the Forest free?"
+
+Of right "Tamlany"--by far the finest of the Border fairy
+ballads--belongs more to Ettrick than to Yarrow. The scene is laid in
+Carterhaugh, at the confluence of the two streams, two miles above
+Selkirk. The ballad (24 stanzas) is too long to quote, but may be read
+in all good collections. For the same reason also we must pass over the
+"Battle of Philiphaugh," commemorating Leslie's victory over Montrose in
+1645; and the "Gay Goss-Hawk," the dramatic ending of which is laid at
+St. Mary's Kirk, high upon the hillside overlooking the waters of the
+Loch. Nothing is left now save the site, and a half-deserted
+burying-ground where "Covenanter and Catholic, Scotts, and Kers and
+Pringles--all sorts and conditions of men--sleep their long sleep at
+peace together." Among the shrines of Yarrowdale, this is not the least
+notable. Like the grave of Keats outside the walls of Rome, as some one
+has said, "it would almost make one in love with death to be buried in
+so sweet a spot among the heather and brackens, and the sighing of the
+solitary mountain ash." St. Mary's Loch lies shimmering at our feet.
+Scott's "Marmion" picture is still wonderfully correct:
+
+    "Oft in my mind such thoughts awake,
+    By lone Saint Mary's silent lake;
+    Thou know'st it well--nor fen, nor sedge
+    Pollute the pure lake's crystal edge;
+    Abrupt and sheer, the mountains sink
+    At once upon the level brink;
+    And just a trace of silver sand
+    Marks where the water meets the land.
+
+    Far in the mirror, bright and blue,
+    Each hill's huge outline you may view;
+    Shaggy with heath, but lonely bare,
+    Nor tree, nor bush, nor brake is there,
+    Save where, of land, yon slender line
+    Bears thwart the lake the scatter'd pine,
+    Yet even this nakedness has power,
+    And aids the feeling of the hour."
+
+All this delightsome countryside is Hogg-land too, let us remember, as
+well as Scott-land. For here, in ballad-haunted Yarrow, the immortal
+James spent the best years of his life, failing so tantalizingly as
+farmer, but as poet, "King of the Mountain and Fairy school," dreaming
+so well of that most bewitching of all his conceptions--"Bonnie
+Kilmeny." Yonder, overlooking Tibbie Shiel's "cosy beild"--a howff of
+the Noctes coterie--stands the solitary white figure of the beloved
+Shepherd as Christopher North's prophetic soul felt that it must be some
+day. Hogg was born in the neighbouring Ettrick valley--in 1770
+presumably. His birth-cottage is extinct now, but a handsome memorial
+marks the spot. Most of his life, as has been said, was passed in the
+sister vale, first at Blackhouse, then at Mount Benger, and at Altrive
+(now Eldinhope), where he died three years after his truest of
+friends--Sir Walter. The Ettrick homeland guards his dust. Close by is
+the resting-place of Thomas Boston, that earlier "Ettrick Shepherd"
+whose "Fourfold State" and "Crook in the Lot" are not yet forgotten. In
+the sequestered Yarrow churchyard sleeps Scott's maternal
+great-grandfather, John Rutherford, who was minister of the parish from
+1691 to 1710. Scott spoke of Yarrow as the "shrine of his ancestors,"
+and himself, like Hogg, and Willie Laidlaw, frequently worshipped within
+its old grey walls. Further down the stream, the "shattered front of
+Newark's towers" reminds us that here Scott placed the recital of the
+"Lay." He would fain have fitted up the ancient fabric as a residence,
+had it been possible. Almost opposite, the birthplace of Mungo Park, the
+first of the knight-errantry of Africa, attracts attention, and a mile
+or two nearer Selkirk, are Philiphaugh, and "sweet Bowhill," the two
+finest domains in the Forest. The Covenanters' Monument within
+Philiphaugh grounds is worthy of notice, and on the Ettrick side,
+Kirkhope and Oakwood, both in fairly good repair, are excellent
+specimens of the peel period. At Selkirk, the capital of Ettrickdale,
+Scott's statue as "the Shirra"--a most admirable representation--looks
+out at scenes upon which his eyes in life must often have feasted. Here
+we read the lines that express his heart's deep love for a district
+interwoven so closely with all the years of his working life:
+
+    "By Yarrow's streams still let me stray,
+    Though none should guide my feeble way;
+    Still feel the breeze down Ettrick break,
+    Although it chill my wither'd cheek."
+
+  PLATE 23
+
+  VIEW OF NEW ABBEY
+  AND CRIFFEL
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+VI. THE LEADER VALLEY.
+
+
+To the present writer, the valley of the Leader, or Lauderdale, has
+attractions and memories that are second to none in the Border. "Here,
+first,"--to use Hogg's lines--
+
+    "He saw the rising morn,
+      Here, first, his infant mind unfurled
+    To ween the spot where he was born
+      The very centre of the world."
+
+Lauderdale constitutes one of the "three parts" into which Berwickshire,
+like Ancient Gaul, is divided. The others are the Merse, (_i.e._,
+March-Land)--often a distinctive designation for the entire county, but
+applicable especially to the low-lying lands beside the Tweed;
+Lammermoor, so named from the Lammermoor Hills ranging across the county
+from Soutra Edge and Lammer Law in the extreme north-west, to the
+coastline at Fast Castle and St. Abbs. Lauderdale, the westernmost
+division, running due north and south, embraces simply the basin of the
+Leader and its tributaries so far as the basin is in Berwickshire. Its
+total length is not more than twenty-one miles, from Kelphope Burn, the
+real origin of the Leader, to Leaderfoot, about two miles below Melrose,
+where it meets the waters of the Tweed. Leaderdale and Lauderdale are
+but varieties of the name. A little off the beaten track, perhaps, it
+can be easily reached by rail to St. Boswells and Earlston, or to Lauder
+itself, from Fountainhall, on the Waverley Route, by the light railway
+recently opened. Its upper course among the Lammermoors is through
+bleak, monotonous hill scenery; but the middle and lower reaches pass
+into a fine series of landscapes--the "Leader Haughs" of many an olden
+strain--- flanked by graceful green hills and swells, and plains, that
+are hardly surpassed in Scotland for agricultural wealth and beauty. Of
+Berwickshire generally, it may be said that it has few industries and no
+mineral wealth to speak of. Its business is chiefly in one
+department--agriculture. For that the soil is particularly well adapted.
+Especially is this true of the Merse and Lauderdale districts, where the
+farmers take a high place in agricultural affairs, many of them being
+recognised experts and authorities on the subject. Thousands of acres on
+the once bald and featureless hill-lands of Lauderdale have been brought
+within the benign influence of plough and harrow, and are choice
+ornaments in a county famous for its agricultural triumphs all the world
+over. But Romance, rather than agriculture, is the true glory of the
+Leader Valley. It will be difficult to find a locality--Yarrow
+excepted--which is more under the spell of the past. May not Lauderdale,
+indeed, be claimed as the very birthplace of Scottish melody itself?
+Robert Chambers styled it "the Arcadia of Scotland," and was not Thomas
+of Ercildoune the "day-starre of Scottish poetry?"
+
+This, too, is the country of St. Cuthbert. At Channelkirk, he was
+probably born. At all events the first light of history falls upon him
+here, as a shepherd lad, watching his flocks by the Leader, and striving
+to think out the deep things of the divine life, with the most ardent
+longings in his soul after it. The traditional meadow, whence he beheld
+the vision which changed his career, is still pointed out, and his
+reputed birthplace at Cuddy Ha' keeps his memory green amongst those
+sweet refreshing solitudes. It is interesting to note Berwickshire's
+connection with the three most famous Borderers of history--St.
+Cuthbert, Thomas the Rhymer, and Walter Scott, of Merse extraction,
+whose dust Berwickshire holds as its most sacred trust.
+
+Lauder and Earlston are the only places of importance in the valley. The
+former--it is, by the way, the only royal burgh in the shire--boasts a
+considerable antiquity. It is still a quaint-looking but clean town,
+with long straggling street, and one or two buildings--the parish kirk
+and Tolbooth--offering decidedly Continental suggestions. Lauder's
+old-worldness and isolation are at an end, however. After much
+agitation, a railway-line now connects it with the rest of the world,
+and already the signs of a new life are apparent. Within a very few
+years the inevitable changes will be sure to have passed over this once
+quiet and exclusive little town. It is the "Maitland blude," which
+dominates Lauder, and Thirlestane Castle, built, or renovated rather, in
+the time of Charles II., is still a place to see. Amongst Scottish
+families, the Maitlands were first in place and power. Not a few of them
+were greatly distinguished as statesmen and men of letters--the blind
+poet and ballad-collector, Sir Richard; William Maitland, the celebrated
+Secretary Lethington; Chancellor Maitland, author of the satirical
+ballad, "Against Sklanderous Tongues;" Thomas, and Mary, Latin
+versifiers both; and the infamous "Cabal" Duke, the only bearer of the
+title. Within the well-kept policies of Thirlestane, tradition has
+located the site of the historic Lauder Bridge, so fatal to James III.'s
+favourites in 1482. Dr. John Wilson, of Bombay, Orientalist and scholar,
+was born at Lauder in 1804, and James Guthrie, the first Scottish martyr
+after the Reformation, was its minister for a short period.
+
+Earlston is seven miles down stream from Lauder. Before reaching the
+town of the Rhymer some spots of interest call for notice. At St.
+Leonard's--a little way out--a hospital off-shoot of Dryburgh, lived
+Burne the Violer, the last of the minstrel fraternity, a supposed
+prototype of the Minstrel of the "Lay," and author of the fine pastoral
+poem, "Leader Haughs and Yarrow," the verse-model for Wordsworth's
+"Three Yarrows." One verse was a great favourite with Scott and Carlyle,
+both of whom were known to repeat it frequently:--
+
+    "But Minstrel Burne can not assuage
+    His grief, while life endureth,
+    To see the changes of this age,
+    Which fleeting time procureth;
+    For mony a place stands in hard case,
+    Where blythe folk ken'd nae sorrow,
+    With Humes that dwelt on Leader-side,
+    And Scotts that dwelt on Yarrow."
+
+Blainslie, famous for its oats ("There's corn enough in the
+Blainslies"), and Whitslaid Tower, a long ago holding of the Lauder
+family, are passed a mile or two on. At Birkhill and Birkenside the road
+forks leftwards to Legerwood, where Grizel Cochrane of Ochiltree
+(afterwards Mrs. Ker of Morriston), heroine of the stirring mail-bag
+adventure narrated in the "Border Tales," sleeps in its lately
+restored kirk chancel. Chapel, and Carolside with a fine deer park,
+and most charming of country residences--at the latter of which Kinglake
+wrote part of his "Crimean War"--sit snugly to the right, in the bosky
+glen below.
+
+  PLATE 24
+
+  CRIFFEL AND LOCH
+  KINDAR
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Earlston, the Ercildoune of olden time--name much better suited to the
+quiet beauty of its charming situation--has no unimportant place both in
+Scottish history and romance. It has been honoured by many royal visits.
+Here David the Sair Sanct subscribed the Foundation Charter of Melrose
+Abbey in 1136, and his son the Confirmatory Charter in 1143. Other royal
+visitors followed; there James IV. encamped for a night on his way from
+Edinburgh to Flodden; Queen Mary made a brief stay at Cowdenknowes as
+she passed from Craigmillar to Jedburgh; and lastly came Prince Charlie
+(unwelcome) on his march to Berwick-on-Tweed. But above all it is
+renowned as having been the residence (and birthplace probably) of
+Thomas the Rhymer, or True Thomas, or simply, as literary history
+prefers to call him, Thomas of Ercildoune. The Rhymer's Tower,
+associated with this remarkable personage, stands close to the Leader.
+Only a mere ivy-clad fragment remains (some 30 feet in height), but the
+memories of the place stretch back to more than six centuries, when
+Thomas was at the height of his fame as his country's great soothsayer
+and bard--the _vates sacer_ of the people. His rhymes are still quoted,
+and many of them have been realised in a manner which Thomas himself
+could scarcely have anticipated. Scott makes him the author of the
+metrical romance "Sir Tristrem," published from the Auchinleck _MS._ in
+1804, but the Rhymer is unlikely to have been the original compiler.
+With his Fairyland adventures and return to that mysterious region,
+everybody is familiar. A quaint stone in the church wall carries the
+inscription:
+
+  Auld Rymr's Race
+  Lyes in this place,
+
+and the probability is that Thomas sleeps somewhere amidst its dark
+dust, unless, indeed, he be still spell-bound in some as yet
+undiscovered cavern underneath the Eildons, waiting with Arthur, and
+Merlin, the blast of that irresistible horn which is to "peal their
+proud march from Fairyland."
+
+Mellerstain in Earlston Parish, is the burial-place of Grisell Baillie,
+the Polwarth heroine and songstress, and author of the plaintive "Werena
+My Heart Licht I wad Dee." Cowdenknowes, "where Homes had ance
+commanding," one of the really classical names in Border minstrelsy is
+the scene of that sweetest of love lyrics, the "Broom o' the
+Cowdenknowes":--
+
+    "How blithe, ilk morn, was I to see
+    My swain come o'er the hill!
+    He skipt the burn and flew to me:
+    I met him with good-will."
+
+Sandyknowe, Scott's cradling-ground in romance, and Bemersyde, one of
+the oldest inhabited houses in the Tweed Valley (partly peel), still
+evidencing the Rhymer's couplet:--
+
+    "Tyde what may betyde,
+    Haig shall be Haig of Bemersyde,--"
+
+are both in the near neighbourhood.
+
+A charming bit of country road lies between Earlston and Dryburgh,
+passing Redpath, the Park, Gladswood, and round by Bemersyde Hill, from
+which Scott had his favourite view of the Tweed--the "beautiful bend"
+shrining the site of the original Melrose, and the graceful Eildons--and
+by which his funeral procession wended its mournful way just
+seventy-four years ago. Half-way between Earlston and Melrose (by road
+4-1/2 miles), and close to
+
+    "Drygrange with the milk-white yowes,
+    Twixt Tweed and Leader standing,"
+
+the latter stream blends its waters with those of the Tweed, where the
+foliage is ever at its thickest and greenest; and looking up the glen
+towards Newstead and Melrose, another vision of rare beauty meets the
+eye. Framed in the tall piers of the railway viaduct (150 feet
+high)--not at all a disfigurement--the gracefully-bending Tweed, no more
+fair than here, with the smoke rising above the Abbeyed town, Eildon in
+the foreground, and the blue barrier of the hills beyond, make up a
+picture such as may come to us in dreams.
+
+
+
+
+VII. LIDDESDALE
+
+_From the Author's chapter in Cassell's "British Isles."_ (_By
+permission._)
+
+
+The Liddel rises in the Cheviot range, close to Jedhead, at an altitude
+of six hundred and fifty feet above sea level, and after a course of
+seven-and-twenty miles, with a fall of five hundred and forty-five feet,
+it joins the Esk at the Moat of Liddel, below Canonbie, near the famous
+Netherby Hall, twelve miles north of Carlisle and about eight from
+Langholm. It is fed by a score of affluents, of which the chief are the
+Hermitage and Kershope Waters, the latter constituting for nine miles or
+so the immediate boundary between the two countries. From its
+geographical position as cut off from the main division of the county,
+Liddesdale has little in common with the valleys of the Tweed and
+Teviot. A Liddesdaler, for instance, seldom crosses over to Tweedside,
+nor can a Tweedsider be said to have other than a comparatively slight
+acquaintanceship with his southern neighbour of the shire. Indeed,
+Liddesdale has been described as belonging in some respects more to
+England than to Scotland, and in a sense, it may be said to be the very
+centre of the Border Country itself.
+
+  PLATE 25
+
+  CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+If now-a-days one may roam through Liddesdale with some degree of
+comfort, it was a very different matter for Scott and Shortreed little
+more than a hundred years since. They knew scarcely anything of the
+district, which lay to them, as was said, "like some unkenned-of isle
+ayont New Holland." But Scott was bent on his Minstrelsy
+ballad-huntings. And it was the very inaccessibility of the Liddel glens
+which inspired him with the hope of treasure. For seven autumns in
+succession they "raided" Liddesdale, as Scott phrased it, and, as he
+anticipated, some of the finest specimens in the Minstrelsy were the
+outcome of these excursions. Evidence of the utter solitariness and
+roadlessness of the region is found in the fact that no wheeled vehicle
+had been seen in Liddesdale till the advent of Scott's gig about 1798.
+Nor was there a single inn or public-house to be met with in the whole
+valley. Lockhart describes how the travellers passed "from the
+shepherd's hut to the minister's manse, and again from the cheerful
+hospitality of the manse to the rough and jolly welcome of the
+homestead, gathering wherever they went songs and tunes and occasionally
+more tangible relics of antiquity." But a hundred years have wrought
+wondrous transformation on the wild wastes of the Liddel. The
+"impenetrable savage land" of Scott's day, trackless and bridgeless, is
+now singularly well opened up to civilisation and the modern tripper.
+The Waverley Route of the North British Railway passes down the valley
+within a few miles of its best-known landmarks. The Road Committees are
+careful as to their duty, and a well-developed series of coaching tours
+has proved exceedingly popular. From a miserable expanse of bleak moors
+and quaking moss-hags, the greater portion of lower Liddesdale, at
+least, has passed into a picturesque combination of moor and woodland
+with rich pastoral holms and fields in the highest state of cultivation.
+
+But the main glory of Liddesdale is the romance that hangs over it.
+There is probably no parish in Scotland--for be it remembered that
+Liddesdale is virtually one parish--which could show such an
+extraordinary number of peel-houses to its credit. Their ruins, or where
+these have disappeared, the sites are pointed out with surprising
+frequency. A distinctively Border district, this was to be expected, and
+the like is true of the English side also. A Liddesdale Keep, still in
+excellent preservation--"four-square to all the winds that blow"--and
+far and away the strongest and the most massive pile on the Border
+frontier is Hermitage, in the pretty vale of that name, within easy
+reach from Steele Road or Riccarton stations, three and four miles
+respectively. Built by the Comyns in the thirteenth century, it passed
+to the Soulises, the Angus Douglases, to "Bell-the-Cat" himself, the
+Hepburn Bothwells, and the "bold Buccleuch," whose successor still holds
+it. Legend may almost be said to be indigenous to the soil of Hermitage,
+and one wonders not that Scott found his happy hunting-ground here. The
+youngest child will tell us about that "Ogre" Soulis, who was so hated
+by his vassals for his awful oppression of them, that at last they
+boiled him alive--horrible vengeance--on the Nine-Stane Rig, a Druidic
+circle near by. In part confirmation of the tragedy it is asserted that
+the actual cauldron may still be seen at Dalkeith Palace. Scott was
+constantly quoting the verses from Leyden's ballad:
+
+    "On a circle of stones they placed the pot,
+    On a circle of stones but barely nine;
+    They heated it red and fiery hot
+    Till the burnish'd brass did glimmer and shine
+
+    They rolled him up in a sheet of lead,
+    A sheet of lead for a funeral pall;
+    They plunged him in the cauldron red,
+    And melted him, lead, and bones, and all."
+
+The Nine-Stane Rig is the scene also of the fragmentary "Barthram's
+Dirge"--a clever Surtees forgery undetected by Scott. Leyden's second
+Hermitage ballad--two of the best in the "Minstrelsy"--deals with the
+Cout or Chief of Keeldar, in Northumberland, done to death by the "Ogre"
+in the Cout's Pool close to the Castle. In the little God's-acre at
+Hermitage the Cout's grave is pointed out (Keeldar also shows what
+purports to be the Cout's resting-place). Memories of Mary and Bothwell
+come to us, too, at Hermitage. Here the wounded Warden of the Marches
+was visited by the infatuated Queen, who rode over from Jedburgh to see
+him, returning the same day--a rough roundabout of fifty miles--which
+all but cost her life. Dalhousie's Dungeon, in the north-east tower,
+recalls the tragic end of one of the bravest and best men of his
+time--Sir Alexander Ramsay, of Dalhousie, who was starved to death at
+the instance of Liddesdale's Black Knight, here anything but the "Flower
+of Chivalry." One may wander all over the Hermitage and Liddel valleys
+without ever being free from the romance-feeling which haunts them.
+Relics of the Roman occupation are in abundance on every hillside--
+
+    "Many a cairn's grey pyramid,
+    Where urns of mighty chiefs lie hid."
+
+This was the homeland of the Elliots, "lions of Liddesdale," and the
+sturdy Armstrongs, of the crafty Nixons and Croziers--"thieves all":
+
+    "Fierce as the wolf they rushed to seize their prey:
+    The day was all their night, the night their day."
+
+It is to be regretted that so few of the dozens of clan-strengths which
+at one time studded the district are any longer in evidence. Hartsgarth,
+Roan, (so named from the French Rouen), Redheugh, Mangerton--"Kinmont
+Willie's" Keep--Syde--"He is weel kenned Jock o' the Syde," Copshaw
+Park--the abode of "little Jock Elliot"--Westburnflat--an "Old
+Mortality" name--Whithaugh, Clintwood, Hillhouse, Peel, and
+Thorlieshope, have mostly all disappeared since Scott's day. A
+generation more utilitarian in its tastes has arisen, and the stones
+taken to set up dykes and fill drains. Near the junction of the Liddel
+and Hermitage stood the strongly posted Castle of the "Lords of Lydal,"
+and the important township of Castleton--not unlike the Roxburghs
+between Tweed and Teviot; and, like them also, both have long since
+passed from the things that are. Only the worn pedestal of its
+"mercat-cross" and a lone kirkyard have been left to tell the tale. Two
+miles farther down is the village of Newcastleton, formerly Copshawholm,
+planned by the "good Duke Henry" in 1793, a rising summer resort with a
+population of about a thousand.
+
+We cannot quit Liddesdale without recalling that this is "Dandie
+Dinmont's" Country. In writing "Guy Mannering" Scott drew largely from
+his earlier experiences amongst the honest-souled store-farmers and
+poetry-loving peasants of Liddelside. At Millburn, on the Hermitage, he
+enjoyed the hospitality of kindly Willie Elliot, who stood for the
+"great original" of "Dandie Dinmont."
+
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+PRINTED AND BOUND BY PERCY LUND, HUMPHRIES AND CO., LTD., THE COUNTRY
+PRESS, BRADFORD; AND 3, AMEN CORNER, LONDON, E.C.
+
+
+
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+Minor spelling and typographical errors have been corrected without
+note. The missing Plate number for Plate 11 has been re-instated.
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE BORDER COUNTRY***
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+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, In the Border Country, by W. S. (William
+Shillinglaw) Crockett, Illustrated by James Orrock</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: In the Border Country</p>
+<p>Author: W. S. (William Shillinglaw) Crockett</p>
+<p>Release Date: March 17, 2010  [eBook #31678]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE BORDER COUNTRY***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Peter Vickers,<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="centerbox"><h1>IN THE BORDER COUNTRY</h1></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 75%;" />
+<h2><a name="POPULAR_BOOKS_ON_ART" id="POPULAR_BOOKS_ON_ART"></a>POPULAR BOOKS ON ART.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">Edited by W. Shaw Sparrow</p>
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p>THE ART AND LIFE LIBRARY. 1. "<span class="smcap">The British Home
+of To-Day</span>" (<i>out of print</i>). 2. "<span class="smcap">The Gospels in Art.</span>"
+3. "<span class="smcap">Women Painters of the World.</span>" 4. "<span class="smcap">The Old Testament
+in Art</span>," Vol. I. 5. "<span class="smcap">The Modern Home</span>" (<i>out of print</i>).
+6. "<span class="smcap">The Old Testament in Art</span>," Vol. II. 7. "<span class="smcap">The Apostles
+in Art.</span>"</p>
+
+<p>HISTORY, TRAVEL, RUSTIC LIFE. 1. "<span class="smcap">Mary Queen
+of Scots</span>," with 26 Pictures in Colour by Sir James Linton, R.I.,
+and James Orrock, R.I.; the text by Walter Wood. 2. "<span class="smcap">In The
+Border Country</span>," with 25 Pictures in Colour by James
+Orrock, R.I., and Historical Notes by W. S. Crockett. 3.
+"<span class="smcap">In Rustic England</span>," with 25 Pictures in Colour by Birket
+Foster; the text by A. B. Daryll.</p>
+
+<p>THE ART AND LIFE MONOGRAPHS. 1. "<span class="smcap">Etchings by
+Van Dyck</span>," in Rembrandt Photogravure the full size of the
+Original Proofs. Also an Édition de Luxe with Carbon Print
+Photographs of all the Etchings; the text by Prof. Dr. H. W.
+Singer. 2. "<span class="smcap">Ingres&mdash;Master of Pure Draughtsmanship</span>."
+Twenty-four Rembrandt Photogravures of important Drawings
+and Pictures; the introductions by Arsène Alexandre and W.
+Shaw Sparrow.</p>
+
+<p>ARTISTS OF THE PRESENT DAY. I. "<span class="smcap">Frank Brangwyn,
+A.R.A.</span>" the introductions by Léonce Bénédite and W. Shaw
+Sparrow. 2. "<span class="smcap">Lucy E. Kemp-Welch</span>," the introductions by
+Professor Hubert von Herkomer and Edward F. Strange.</p>
+
+<p>SERIES OF BIBLE PICTURES. "<span class="smcap">The Saviour in Modern
+Art.</span>"</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p class="center">London: Hodder &amp; Stoughton</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 75%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Frontispiece" id="Frontispiece"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/frontis.jpg" width="600" height="395" alt="VIEW OF DUNSTANBOROUGH" title="VIEW OF DUNSTANBOROUGH" />
+</div>
+
+<h5>FRONTISPIECE</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF DUNSTANBOROUGH</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<hr style="width: 75%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<a name="TitlePage" id="TitlePage"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus005.jpg" width="400" height="558" alt="In The Border Country" title="In The Border Country" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 75%;" />
+
+<h3><a name="Dedication" id="Dedication"></a>DEDICATED<br />
+TO THE MEMORY<br />
+OF<br />
+SIR WALTER SCOTT</h3>
+
+<hr style="width: 75%;" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a name="Preface" id="Preface">PREFACE</a></h2>
+
+<p>
+Most of us prefer to spend our holiday tours
+away from our own country. There is a
+feeling of mild adventure when the land
+we behold is unknown to us, and when the
+language we hear filters into our questioning minds
+through an interpreter's suavity and chatter. And
+if we go to Switzerland we may earn even a
+reputation for intrepid pluck among the friends
+who listen to us on our return home, while the
+unlucky guides, who found for our trembling feet
+a pathway around each danger, will amuse their
+families during the winter with little tales at our
+expense, told with rough satire and with short,
+gruff peals of laughter resembling the noise of a
+crackling ice-sheet when it begins to slip downhill.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+No doubt, heroism on the hillside has a vast
+attraction to brave, fearless hearts like our own;
+but we should find, here in our own country, quite
+as much adventure as is good for us, and quite as
+much novelty also, if only we could bring ourselves
+to believe that knowledge of native scenes and
+traditions does not come to us in baptism or by
+virtue of our birth as British folk. If you ask a
+friend whether he knows the Border Country, he
+will probably answer yes, and then go on to say
+that he when a lad at school was a great reader
+of Scott, and thank heaven! his memory is a good
+one. Push the matter further, ask whether he has
+verified the truth of Scott's descriptions by a visit
+to the places described, and you will probably
+hear that your friend would rather dream of the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>North Pole or be bitten fiercely by the swarms of
+lively insects treasured throughout Brittany in
+every cottage and hotel.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+All this being somewhat commonplace, you may
+wish to get closer to this subject, and your friend
+at last, driven to bay, comes to the real point that
+pricks and distresses him. "You see," he will
+say, "a holiday tour at home is such a dickens of a
+gamble. You can't say how much it will cost.
+The only thing at all certain about it is that the
+cost will be more than you can afford. Wherever
+you go you become a goose to be plucked."
+</p>
+
+<p>
+Let us rebel against this iniquity! It is not
+a question of cheating, it is a trait of the national
+character. In Great Britain, as among the Americans,
+the gift of long sight in business has become
+very common, and few persons think it worth their
+while to see the practical good things within easy
+reach of the blessed short sight of common sense.
+Our chief aim is not to keep a market open and
+steady, but to glut it with over-production or to
+block it with excessive prices. "Here is a holiday-tripper,
+so let us make him pay!" That seems to
+be the unconquerable maxim at all seaside resorts
+and in every place where tired workers seek rest
+and health. I have known a week's holiday in
+the New Forest to cost as much as a tour of three
+weeks in the beautiful and bracing Ardennes.
+The Belgian is content to draw his customers back
+to him, while the Englishman grasps all he can get
+and sends us away discontented.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It is true that the railway companies are doing
+all in their power to make holidays at home welcome
+and inexpensive. Their enterprise in this respect
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>has no limits. But we cannot live on cheap railway
+tickets alone, whether single or return. Something
+should be done&mdash;and the newspapers could help&mdash;to
+establish in all attractive districts a reasonable
+tariff for board and lodging. It is only thus that
+Great Britain will be made popular during the
+holiday season, and that the great stream of gold&mdash;the
+holiday-making Pactolus&mdash;will be drawn
+from the Continent to nourish our own country
+sides and rural folk.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+It seems to be certain that, during the reign
+of the old stage coach, life in rustic England was
+cheaper than it is to-day. At any rate we must
+account in some way or other for the immense
+number of county histories and illustrated topographical
+books which teemed from the press from
+the middle of the eighteenth century to the time
+of J. M. W. Turner. To study these works is to
+be sure that our forefathers took the greatest
+delight in their own country, and that huge sums
+of money were spent in procuring fine sketches and
+adequate engravings. Side by side with these
+books on British topography were volumes on
+foreign travel, like those by William Alexander,
+who in 1792 accompanied Lord Macartney's embassy
+to China, where he made many exquisite
+sketches, brimful of humour and playful observation.
+John Webber, R.A., in 1776, accompanied
+Captain Cook on his third and last voyage, and
+made a drawing of Cook's death, which Byrne and
+Bartolozzi engraved. Two other Royal Academicians,
+Thomas and William Daniell, made India
+their sketching-ground, and in their great work on
+"Oriental Scenery," published in 1808, they devoted
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>six volumes to a subject as fascinating as it was
+unhackneyed. Many other artists, too, travelled
+and made sketches for books, ranging from Girtin's
+Paris Views to Turner's "Rivers of France," and
+from Sir David Wilkie's Eastern sketches, reproduced
+in lithography by Nash, to the familiar work of
+Prout, Harding, J. F. Lewis, R.A., and Louis Haghe.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+But these books on foreign travel, admirable
+as they were, did not eclipse the many volumes on
+British scenery and landscape antiquities. All
+the ablest men among the earlier water-colour
+painters&mdash;Hearne, Malton, Dayes, Girtin, Turner,
+Francia, Havell, De Wint, David Cox, Cotman&mdash;made
+topographical sketches for illustrations, and
+lucky is he who "finds" their earliest efforts.
+To-day, happily, there are signs of renewed life in
+the old taste for picture books on the beauty and
+romance of our own country. It is a taste that
+invigorates, storing the mind with tonic memories
+and filling the eyes with beautiful scenes and
+colours; and we may be sure that it needs for its
+gratification books which are easy to carry and to
+read. The great folio of other days, as heavy
+almost as a country squire, is rightly treasured in
+the British Museum, like the remains of the Neolithic
+Man discovered in Egypt.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+The subject of the present book&mdash;the Border
+Country&mdash;should set us thinking, not of one holiday,
+but of many; and he who has once tasted the
+Border's keen rich air will long to return both to it
+and to the traditions that dwell among the vast landscapes
+and in the ruined castles. The distinguished
+connoisseur and painter whose sketches are here
+reproduced, has gone back to the Border Country a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>dozen times and more, always to find there a renewal
+of his first pleasure and a host of fresh subjects,
+that form a delightful connecting-link between each
+to-day and the armoured epochs of the long ago.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+And if the Border Country, with its enchanted
+places and memories, delights a landscape-painter,
+it is equally attractive to students of architecture,
+to lovers of folk-lore and literary history, to writers
+of romance in search of traditions and local colour,
+and to those of us also who indulge a passion for
+collecting either as botanists or as geologists.
+The rivers and streams have a rare fascination,
+and anglers, having made their choice, can come
+by all the sport which they desire. As to the hills,
+they have a certain modesty of height deceptive
+to the unwary, for although they have not won for
+themselves a reputation for fatalities to be described
+as Alpine, they are yet so dangerous when a mist
+gathers about them and thickens, that a climber
+may lose his life there quite comfortably, and
+without enjoying more than the customary amount
+of rashness or inexperience. Briefly, men may
+find in the Border Country nearly all their hobbies,
+and nearly all their professional studies.
+</p>
+
+<p>
+In this book the historical notes are written
+by one who lives by the Tweed, and whose name
+is associated with Border subjects. Mr. Crockett's
+work is filled with the Past, while the outdoor
+sketches by Mr. Orrock are at once so faithful
+topographically, and so much in sympathy with the
+classic traditions of English Water-Colour, that
+they show us what the Border Country is to-day,
+when seen through the medium of a painter's
+observation and knowledge.
+</p>
+
+<p style="text-align: right">
+W. SHAW SPARROW.<br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 75%;" />
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="55%" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents">CONTENTS.</a></h2></td>
+<td class="rn"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"></td>
+<td class="rn">Page</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#TitlePage">Title Page. By David Veazey</a></td>
+<td class="rn">3</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#Dedication">Dedication Page</a></td>
+<td class="rn">5</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#Preface">Preface. By Walter Shaw Sparrow</a></td>
+<td class="rn">7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#Contents">Contents</a></td>
+<td class="rn">12</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3">&nbsp;</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="3" class="center"><h2>IN THE BORDER COUNTRY<br />BY W. S. CROCKETT</h2></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>I.</td>
+<td><a href="#I_INTRODUCTION">Introduction</a></td>
+<td class="rn">17</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td></td>
+<td><a href="#TheMakingOfTheBorder">The Making of the Border</a></td>
+<td class="rn">23</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td></td>
+<td><a href="#TheChristianizingOfTheBorder">The Christianizing of the Border</a></td>
+<td class="rn">26</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td></td>
+<td><a href="#BorderWarfare">Border Warfare</a></td>
+<td class="rn">36</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>II.</td>
+<td><a href="#II_THE_ENGLISH_BORDER">The English Border: Northumberland</a></td>
+<td class="rn">44</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td></td>
+<td><a href="#MerrieCarlisle">"Merrie Carlisle"</a></td>
+<td class="rn">60</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>III.</td>
+<td><a href="#III_THE_TWEED_AND_ITS">The Tweed and Its Associations</a></td>
+<td class="rn">75</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>IV.</td>
+<td><a href="#IV_PLEASANT_TEVIOTDALE">"Pleasant Teviotdale"</a></td>
+<td class="rn">94</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>V.</td>
+<td><a href="#V_IN_THE_BALLAD_COUNTRY">In the Ballad Country</a></td>
+<td class="rn">105</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>VI.</td>
+<td><a href="#VI_THE_LEADER_VALLEY">The Leader Valley</a></td>
+<td class="rn">117</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td>VII.</td>
+<td><a href="#VII_LIDDESDALE">Liddesdale</a></td>
+<td class="rn">124</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="PLATES_IN_COLOUR" id="PLATES_IN_COLOUR"></a>PLATES IN COLOUR<br />
+BY JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h2>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="55%" cellspacing="0" summary="PLATES">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Frontispiece.</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Frontispiece">View of Dunstanborough</a></td>
+<td class="rn">Title page</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 2</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_2">Crag Loch and the Roman Wall</a></td>
+<td class="rn">24</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 3</span></td>
+<td class="rn"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_3">Bamborough from Stag Rock</a></td>
+<td class="rn">32</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 4</span></td>
+<td class="rn"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_4">Holy Island Castle: Harvest Time</a></td>
+<td class="rn">36</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 5</span></td>
+<td class="rn"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_5">View of Norham Castle</a></td>
+<td class="rn">40</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 6</span></td>
+<td class="rn"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_6">Twizel Bridge of the XIV. Century</a></td>
+<td class="rn">44</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 7</span></td>
+<td class="rn"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_7">Flodden Field and the Cheviot Hills</a></td>
+<td class="rn">48</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 8</span></td>
+<td class="rn"></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_8">View of Warkworth</a></td>
+<td class="rn">52</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 9</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_9">View of Alnwick Castle</a></td>
+<td class="rn">56</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 10</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_10">View of Prudhoe-on-Tyne</a></td>
+<td class="rn">60</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 11</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_11">View of Carlisle</a></td>
+<td class="rn">64</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 12</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_12">View of Naworth Castle</a></td>
+<td class="rn">68</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 13</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_13">View of Lanercost Priory</a></td>
+<td class="rn">72</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 14</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_14">View of Bewcastle</a></td>
+<td class="rn">76</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 15</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_15">View of Melrose</a></td>
+<td class="rn">80</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 16</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_16">Melrose and the Eildons from Bemersyde Hill:
+Scott's favourite View</a></td>
+<td class="rn">84</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 17</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_17">Dryburgh Abbey and Scott's Tomb</a></td>
+<td class="rn">88</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 18</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_18">The Remnant of Wark Castle</a></td>
+<td class="rn">92</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 19</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_19">Berwick-on-Tweed</a></td>
+<td class="rn">96</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 20</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_20">Hollows Tower (sometimes called Gilnockie
+Tower)</a></td>
+<td class="rn">100</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 21</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_21">Goldilands, near Hawick</a></td>
+<td class="rn">104</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 22</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_22">"He passed where Newark's stately tower
+Looks out from Yarrow's birchen bower"</a></td>
+<td class="rn">112</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 23</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_23">View of New Abbey and Criffel</a></td>
+<td class="rn">116</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 24</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_24">Criffel and Loch Kindar</a></td>
+<td class="rn">120</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 25</span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><a href="#Plate_25">Caerlaverock Castle</a></td>
+<td class="rn">124</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 75%;" />
+<h2><a name="I_INTRODUCTION" id="I_INTRODUCTION"></a>I. INTRODUCTION</h2>
+
+<p>From Berwick to the Solway as the crow flies
+is little more than seventy miles. Between
+these two points lies the line that divides
+England from Scotland. But to follow this line
+literally along its every little in and out means
+a distance of no fewer than forty good miles more.
+Stretching diagonally across the country&mdash;north-east
+or south-west&mdash;we have the river Tweed as
+eastmost boundary for a considerable space&mdash;close
+on twenty miles; then comes the lofty barrier of
+the Cheviots extending to thirty odd miles, constituting
+the middle portion of the Border line; and
+finally, the Kershope Burn, with the Liddel and
+Esk Waters, and the small stream of the Sark, make
+up the westmost division, another twenty miles, at
+least. But to follow the Border on foot, by every
+bend of Tweedside, and over every nick and nook
+of the Cheviots, and the remaining water-marches,
+means, as has been indicated, a walk of not less than
+one hundred and ten miles. Almost everywhere in
+the land portion of the Border line&mdash;the Cheviots
+generally&mdash;the boundary is such that one may stand
+with one foot in England and the other in Scotland,
+and the rather curious fact will be noted, says one
+who has made this Border pilgrimage <i>par excellence</i>,
+that Scotland nowhere receives a single rivulet
+from England, whilst she sends to England tiny
+head-streams of the Coquet and Tyne only. The
+delimitation is thus a quite natural and scientific
+one, coinciding pretty closely to the water-parting
+of the two countries. Upon either side of this
+line of demarcation stretches the Border Country,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>
+famous in war and verse the whole world over&mdash;Northumberland
+and Cumberland to the south-east
+on English soil, and to the north-west, Berwickshire,
+Roxburghshire, with part of Dumfriesshire, the
+distinctively Border counties on the Scottish side.
+A wider radius, however, has been given to the
+Scottish Border from a very early period. Old
+Scots Acts of Parliament, applying to the Border
+district, embrace the counties of Peebles and
+Selkirk within the term, though these nowhere
+touch the frontier line, and portions of Lanarkshire
+and the Lothians have been also included. But
+on the face of it, these latter lie entirely outside
+the true Border limit. A line drawn on the map
+from Coquetmouth to "Merrie Carlisle," thence to
+the town of Dumfries, and again, almost due north,
+to Tweedsmuir (the source of the Tweed) in Peeblesshire,
+and to Peebles itself, and from Peebles
+eastward by the Moorfoots and Lammermoors to
+the German Ocean at St. Abbs, will give us for all
+practical purposes what may be regarded as the
+Border Country in its widest signification, geographical
+and historical.</p>
+
+<p>There is, of course, a narrower sense in which the
+phrase, the Border Country, is used&mdash;the literary.
+That, however, applies almost entirely to the
+Scottish side, for neither of the English Border
+counties owns a tithe of the associations in literature
+and romance that belong to those beyond the
+Tweed. The extraordinary glamour which has
+been cast over the Tweed and its tributaries by
+the writings of Sir Walter Scott, the Ettrick
+Shepherd, John Leyden, and others, has given a
+prominence to the Scottish side which is nowhere<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>
+shared by its southern neighbour. But to say so
+is no disparagement to the English side. For what
+it lacks in literature it makes up in other admirable
+characteristics. Both Borders are rich in historical
+memories. Their natural features are not dissimilar,
+and in commercial prosperity they are much akin.
+In union they have long been happily wedded.</p>
+
+<p>The Border Country is a region of streams and
+hills which hardly rise to the dignity of rivers and
+mountains. Unlike the Clyde, the Tweed has no
+broad estuary laden with the commerce of the
+world. And the highest summits, Broad Law
+(2754 feet) in Scotland, and the great Cheviot
+(2676 feet) in England, have nothing in common
+with the rugged Highland peaks except their height.
+Both, it has been said, are monuments of denudation
+only, "lofty because they have suffered less wear than
+their neighbours."</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult to imagine all this attractive
+Border Country as at one period a vast ocean-bed,
+over which waves lashed in furious foam, and sea-birds
+shrieked and flew amid the war of waters.
+Yet geology assures us such was its condition
+ages ago. By-and-by, it became a great rolling
+plain or table-land, and in age after age&mdash;how
+many and how long it were vain to speculate&mdash;there
+was carried on that stupendous process by
+which those fair green hills and glens have been so
+marvellously scooped out, and moulded and rounded
+into the objects of beauty that we see about us now.
+In the great glacier movements, in the working of
+the ice-sheets, and under the influences of frost,
+beating rain, and a constant water-flow operating
+through a countless series of years, we have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+the scientific explanation of their present benign
+and comfortable-looking appearance. The Border
+hills are of a purely pastoral type, grass-grown
+from base to summit, and usually easy of ascent.
+Here and there one meets with a distinctly Highland
+picture&mdash;in the deep dark glens down Moffatdale,
+for instance, but in the main they exhibit
+"the sonsie, good-humoured, buirdly look," for
+which Dr. "Rab" Brown expressed the liveliest
+predilection. Once at the curiously plateau-like
+summit of Broadlaw (out-topped in Southern
+Scotland by the Galloway Merrick only) or Hart
+Fell (2651 feet), or the Cheviot, the feeling amounts
+to a kind of awe even. Scott speaks of the silence
+of noonday on the top of Minchmoor, and the acute
+sense of human littleness one always feels amidst
+the "mountain infinities." "I assure you," he
+says, "I have felt really oppressed with a sort of
+fearful loneliness when looking around these naked
+towering ridges of desolate barrenness." The picture
+seen from such a height is both an inspiring
+and a humbling one. Beneath, it is a veritable
+earth-ocean that we are gazing upon. On all sides
+an innumerable series of what look like huge
+elephant-backed ranges are seen to be chasing each
+other like waves of the sea, as it were, ridge after
+ridge, rising, flowing, falling, and passing into the one
+beyond it, as far as the eye can reach. Enclosed
+between each we know are the rushing hill-burns
+and broader streams by which the Border country is
+everywhere so much blessed and beautified. At such
+a height we are entirely outside the human
+touches&mdash;altogether alone with Nature at her
+simplest and solemnest. The cry of a startled sheep<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+and the summer hum of insects on the hill-top&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"That undefined and mingled hum,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Voice of the desert, never dumb"&mdash;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>are the only indications of life where all trace and
+feeling of man and his work have disappeared.
+Occasionally we shall meet by chance with the shepherd,
+maybe, who has his dwelling far down among
+the "hopes"&mdash;the cul-de-sacs of the uplands.
+Amongst those hills he lives and moves and has his
+being. All sorts of weather-conditions find him at his
+work. He never thinks of the loneliness, and the
+winter storms have not the terrors for him as for
+his predecessors. In some respects his life is an
+ideal one, and his class has a goodly record for
+intelligence and fine physique. The best specimens,
+indeed, of the country's manhood are drawn from
+the agricultural labouring classes&mdash;the "herds"
+and "hinds" who make up the bulk of the population
+in the purely rural districts. For agriculture,
+it need scarcely be said, is the staple business of
+both Borders. The Tweed industry, to be sure,
+affords employment to thousands, but on the
+Borders, as elsewhere, the land is the crucial problem.
+Within recent years many of the rural
+parishes have been woefully depleted, and until
+the land question is fairly tackled there seems
+small hope for a fresh and brighter chapter in the
+domestic history of the Border Country.</p>
+
+<p>A hundred years have transformed the face of
+the Border Country in a marked manner. The
+development of agriculture, and the growth of the
+tree-planting spirit, which began to bestir itself
+about the beginning of last century, have given
+to the Border its modern picturesqueness and its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>
+look of prosperity. Sir Walter Scott himself may
+be said to be the father of arboriculture in the
+South of Scotland. In the creation of Abbotsford,
+forestry was his main out-of-doors hobby, and the
+example set by one who had studied the subject
+thoroughly, and who discoursed pleasantly upon
+it, was quickly followed by all the neighbouring
+lairds and many others besides. Not that the
+country was altogether treeless before Scott's
+day. Here and there "ancestral oaks" clumped
+themselves about the great castles and mansions,
+with perhaps some further attempt at embellishment.
+But that was rare enough. It needed
+a man like Scott to popularize the notion, and to
+take the lead in an undertaking fraught, as this
+age well sees, with results so beneficent. We do
+not forget, of course, that in earlier historic times
+practically the whole of the Border Country was
+covered with wood. Its inhabitants, whose very
+names&mdash;Gadeni and Ottadini&mdash;signified "dwellers
+in the wood," were found by the Romans in their
+dense forests, and the first settlements were only
+possible through clearances of growing timber.
+Across the country, from Cadzow, in Renfrewshire,
+to the Ettrick, there stretched the vast Wood of
+Caledon (whence Caledonia), known at a later
+period as the Forest of Ettrick, or simply as the
+Forest (<i>e.g.</i>, the "Flowers of the Forest"). There
+is no doubt that it was largely a forest in the ordinary
+acceptation, and not a mere deer-forest use
+of the term. Over and over again we have the
+various charters, as to the Abbeys, for instance,
+authorising the monks to cut down for building
+purposes and fuel oaks "from the forest," both in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>
+Selkirk and in Melrose, in Kelso and the Ettrick.
+The original religious house of Melrose was entirely
+of oak. So were the first churches founded by
+Kentigern and Cuthbert, and those even of a later
+date. The Forest of Ettrick survived to the time
+of the Stuarts, who had here their favourite hunting
+expeditions, James V. and Queen Mary especially
+being frequent visitors to the Borderland. The
+Forest of Megget, or Rodono (a sub-division of that
+of Ettrick), yielded on one occasion no fewer than five
+hundred head of game, bird and beast of the chase,
+and at another time eighteen score of red deer.
+In the reign of Mary there was issued a proclamation
+limiting and prohibiting the slaughter of deer in
+the Forest on account of their growing scarcity.
+And by the time of James VI. the hunting possibilities
+of the Border were at an end.</p>
+
+<p>More than anything else, the laying down of
+the great railway lines and the immense road
+improvements of last century have opened up
+practically every corner of the Border Country.
+There are now no places so utterly inaccessible
+as Liddesdale was during Scott's visits. It is
+possible to reach the most out-of-the-way parts
+with comparative comfort. And with the dawn
+of the motor age, still greater hopes and possibilities
+appear in store.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 2</h5>
+<h3>CRAG LOCH AND THE<br />
+ROMAN WALL</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_24">24</a> , <a href="#Page_44">44</a> , <a href="#Page_45">45</a> , <a href="#Page_71">71</a> , <a href="#Page_73">73</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_2" id="Plate_2"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate02.jpg" width="600" height="420" alt="CRAG LOCH AND THE ROMAN WALL" title="CRAG LOCH AND THE ROMAN WALL" />
+</div>
+
+<h3><a name="TheMakingOfTheBorder" id="TheMakingOfTheBorder">THE MAKING OF THE BORDER</a></h3>
+
+<p>It is from the Roman historian Tacitus that
+the light of history falls for the first time on the
+Border Country. It is a mere glimpse, however.
+But it is enough to show us the calibre of the men<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>
+who held its forests and fastnesses at that remote
+period. They were the Brigantes, a branch probably
+of the Celts, who were the first to reach
+Britain, coming from the common home-land of the
+Ayrian race somewhere in Central Asia. Their
+kingdom, Brigantia, embraced all the country
+between the Mersey and Humber and the Links of
+Forth. They are spoken of as a strong, courageous
+and warlike people, able for many years to keep
+the Roman cohorts at bay and to check the northward
+progress of the invaders. The Roman Conquest
+of Britain, as is well known, was begun by
+Julius Caesar as far back as <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> 55. It was not,
+however, till the time of Julius Agricola (<span class="smcap">A.D.</span>
+78-84) that the Romans obtained a firm footing on
+the island. Agricola's generalship was more than a
+match for the sturdy Brigantes. He carried the
+Roman eagles to the Forth and Clyde, fixing his
+main line of defence and his northmost frontier on
+the isthmus between these two firths. But about
+<span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 120, when the Emperor Hadrian visited Britain,
+his chief work was the delimitation of the Roman
+territory by the great stone wall still bearing his
+name, stretching from the Tyne to the Solway,
+a distance of 73&frac12; miles. Twenty years later,
+however, Lollius Urbicus, the Emperor's lieutenant
+in Britain, appears to have revived and restored
+Agricola's boundary, so that what we now know
+as the Border Country, for more than three hundred
+years (<span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 78-410), formed a part of the mightiest
+empire of the ancient world. Hadrian's rampart,
+the great camps at Cappuck, near Jedburgh, at
+Lyne in Peeblesshire, and Newstead at the base of
+the Eildons&mdash;the undoubted Roman Trimontium<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>&mdash;with
+the roads known as Watling Street and the
+Wheel Causeway are the chief memorials of a
+singularly historic Occupation. Following the withdrawal
+of the Roman legions the district became the
+arena of constant warfare between Picts and Scots
+and Britons, until the sixth century, when it appears
+again in history as a kingdom of the Saxon Heptarchy
+under the name of Bernicia, and occupied
+by a colony of Angles and Saxons from the Low
+Countries of the Continent, the progenitors of the
+English-speaking race. Ida the Good governed
+Bernicia, having for his capital the proud rock-fortress
+of Bibbanburgh (so named from his queen
+Bibba), the modern Bamborough. In the following
+century Bernicia was combined with Deira, its
+southern neighbour (corresponding to Yorkshire)
+to form the powerful kingdom of Northumbria,
+extending, as Brigantia had done, from the Humber
+to the Forth. For the next three or four hundred
+years the story of the Border was little more than
+a wild record of lawlessness and bloodshed. It
+had grown to be a kind of happy hunting-ground
+for every hostile tribe within fighting distance, and
+for some even who were drawn from long distances,
+like the Danes, the latest of the invading hordes.
+But there is nothing of importance to narrate
+at this period. From a monarchy, Northumbria
+fell to the level of an Earldom in 954, and in 1018,
+the Scots, consolidated to some extent under Malcolm
+II., crushed the Angles of Northumbria in a great
+victory at Carham-on-Tweed (near Coldstream),
+of which the result was the cession to Scotland of
+the district known as Lothian&mdash;the land lying
+between the Tweed and Forth. Thus at the dawn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+of the 11th century we have the Tweed constituting
+the virtual boundary between the two countries.
+Cumberland, to be sure, was for a time Scots territory,
+but this the intrepid Rufus wrested back in
+1092. So that by the close of that century the Border
+line appears to have taken the quite natural
+course of delimitation&mdash;the Tweed, the Cheviots,
+and the Solway, though it was not till as late as
+1222 that a commission of both countries was
+appointed to adjust the final demarcation.</p>
+
+<h3><a name="TheChristianizingOfTheBorder" id="TheChristianizingOfTheBorder">THE CHRISTIANIZING OF THE BORDER</a></h3>
+
+<p>It would be interesting to know precisely
+when and how the light of the Christian faith
+first penetrated the Border Country, but neither
+the time nor the manner can be ascertained with
+certainty. Indeed, it is impossible to say who
+were the real pioneers of the Gospel within the
+realm itself. The probability is that in the first
+instance it was the beneficent work of the Romans
+in whose legions were to be found many sincere
+Christians, many faithful soldiers of the Cross.
+From the "saints of Cæsar's household"&mdash;not a
+mere picturesque dream&mdash;mayhap the Gospel found
+its way to the coasts of Britain, the greatest boon
+that could be conferred on a nation. An unvarying
+Peeblesshire tradition, for example, avers that
+among the first to witness for Christ and His truth
+by the banks of the Tweed and its tributaries were
+Roman soldiers from the great military station at
+Hall Lyne, and out of whose quiet fellowship-meetings
+in the recesses of the Manor, sprang the church
+of that valley, one of the oldest in the county,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>
+and dedicated to Saint Gordian, either the Emperor
+of that name, or what is more likely, "Gordian
+the well-beloved," Deputy of Gaul, who suffered
+martyrdom about the year 362. Be that as it
+may, it is at any rate certain that long before
+the departure of the Romans from Britain, Christianity
+had made considerable headway in the
+island. St. Ninian's is the earliest definite name
+which has come down to us, about the end of the
+4th and beginning of the 5th century. His labours
+were confined chiefly to the Galloway side of the
+Border, where the remains of his Candida Casa, or
+White House, may still be seen at Whithorn on
+the shores of Wigtown Bay. It is more than
+possible that some of Ninian's missionaries, or a
+rumour of his work and teaching at all events, had
+passed beyond the Solway to the Clyde and Tweed
+watersheds. But, on the other hand, the difficulties
+following the departure of the Romans in the constant
+incursions from the Continent and the terrible
+internecine struggles of the time, would be sufficient
+to extinguish whatever light had faintly begun to
+shine. And it is not until well on in the 6th century
+that the darkness begins to grow less dense. Such
+names as Augustine, Paulinus, Columba, Kentigern
+or Mungo, Aidan and Cuthbert, come upon the scene,
+with each of whom seems to rest, as it were, the hope
+of the Church of Christ in Britain. In the year
+597 Augustine arrived in Kent with forty monks
+in his train. The incident, apocryphal perhaps, which
+led to his mission, is at least interesting. The
+story has been told again and again, but it will
+bear repeating. Ælla, King of Deira, had defeated
+his northern neighbour, and with a portion of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>
+spoil hastened to fill the Roman slave-market.
+Gregory the Great, in the days that preceded his pontificate,
+passed one day through the market-place when
+it was crowded with people, all attracted by the
+arrival of fresh cargoes of merchandise; and he saw
+three boys set for sale. They were white-complexioned,
+fair and light, and with noble heads of hair. Filled
+with compassion, he enquired of the dealer from
+what part of the world they had come, and was told
+"from Britain, where all the inhabitants have the
+same fair complexion." He next asked whether the
+people of this strange land were Christians or pagans,
+and hearing that they were pagans he heaved a
+deep sigh, and remarked it was sad to think that
+beings so bright and fair should be in the power
+of the Prince of Darkness. He next enquired the
+name of their nation. "Angles," was the reply.
+"'Tis well," he answered, playing on the word,
+"rightly are they called <i>Angles</i>, for their faces are
+the faces of angels, and they ought to be fellow-heirs
+with the angels of heaven." "And what is the
+name," he proceeded, "of the province from which
+they have been brought?" "From Deira," was
+the answer. Catching its name, he rejoined,
+"Rightly are they named <i>Deirans</i>. Plucked from
+<i>ire</i>, and called to the mercy of Christ." "And
+who," he asked once more, "is the King of this
+province?" "Ælla," was the reply. The word
+recalled the Hebrew expression of praise, and he
+answered, "Allelujah! the praise of God shall be
+chanted in that clime!" And as Green so beautifully
+puts it in his "Making of England," "he
+passed on, musing how the angel faces should be
+brought to sing it." And brought to sing it they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>
+were when the evangelist Paulinus found his way
+in the best sense, to the heart of heathen Northumbria.
+Paulinus, whom men long remembered,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Of shoulders curved, and stature tall,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Black hair, and vivid eye, and meagre cheek."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>had come from Rome with Bishop Justus in 601,
+and laboured with Augustine in the evangelization
+of Kent. When Ethelburga, daughter of Ethelbert
+of Kent, Augustine's convert, became wedded
+to Edwin, the still idolatrous King of Northumbria,
+Paulinus accompanied her as chaplain, and at the
+same time as missionary among the rude Northumbrians.
+The field of his labours was a wide one.
+For a long time he made no progress until Edwin
+himself, moved by his escape from assassination
+at the hands of the King of Wessex, and by his
+victory over Wessex, and under the gentle constraint
+of Paulinus, resolved that both he and his nobles
+should be baptized, and this resolution was carried
+into effect at York, in a hastily-built chapel (the
+precursor of the Minster), on Easter Eve, 627.</p>
+
+<p>The conversion of Edwin was followed by a
+great social revolution. Having convoked the
+National Assembly, he unfolded the reasons for his
+change of faith. Everywhere he was applauded.
+Crowds of the nobility, chiefs of petty states, and
+the great mass of the people followed the example
+of their King. The worship of the ancient gods was
+solemnly renounced, and even Coifi, the high priest,
+was the first to give the signal for destruction by
+hurling his lance at an idol in the pagan temple.
+Paulinus was now one of the most popular figures
+in Northumbria. Wherever he preached, crowds
+gathered to hear him and to be received, like their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>
+Overlord, into the Christian communion. Many
+spots in Northumberland are identified with the
+name of this early and ardent Apostle of the North.
+Pallinsburn, overlooking Flodden Field, is, of course,
+Paulinus's Burn, where large numbers were baptized.
+In one of his missionary journeys we are
+told (Bede) how he was occupied for six and thirty
+consecutive days from early morn until nightfall, in
+teaching the people and in "washing them with
+the water of absolution" in the river Glen, which
+flowed by the royal "vill" of Yeavering (anciently
+Ad-gebrin) in Glendale. At the Lady's Well near
+Holystone, in the vale of the Coquet, about three
+thousand converts were welcomed into the Church
+of Christ. A graceful Runic cross erected on the
+spot bears the following inscription:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="center">
++<span class="smcap">In this Place<br />
+Pavlinvs the Bishop<br />
+Baptized<br />
+Three Thousand Northvmbrians.<br />
+Easter, DCXXVII.</span>+<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>But after six years of incessant labours, the death
+of Edwin in battle with Penda, King of the Mercians,
+and Cadwallon of North Wales, put a sudden stop
+to his work. He did not wait for the honour of
+martyrdom, but went back with the widowed queen
+to Kent, where he became Bishop of Rochester, and
+she the Abbess of Lyminge. Paulinus died in 644,
+and was buried in the chapter-house at Rochester.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 3</h5>
+<h3>BAMBOROUGH FROM<br />
+STAG ROCK</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_25">25</a> , <a href="#Page_58">58</a> , <a href="#Page_59">59</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_3" id="Plate_3"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate03.jpg" width="600" height="420" alt="CRAG LOCH AND THE ROMAN WALL" title="CRAG LOCH AND THE ROMAN WALL" />
+</div>
+
+<p>But it is ever the darkest hour that precedes
+the dawn. It was impossible that England should
+lose her faith and fall back under the rule of a mere
+heathen conqueror. After the "thoughtful Edwin,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>
+mightiest of all the kings of the isle of Britain," as
+he has been called (he was, by the way, the founder of
+Edinburgh), there arose another champion of
+the new light in the person of Oswald, Edwin's
+nephew. Oswald's history connects him with Columba
+the Irishman, and "Apostle of Scotland,"
+to whose splendid work the nation owed its first
+real religious advance. About 563, when in his
+forty-second year, and accompanied by twelve
+companions, Columba found a resting-place on the
+little island of Hy or Iona, off the west coast of
+Scotland, whence he set himself to the great
+work of his life&mdash;the conversion of the Pictish tribes
+beyond the Grampians. At Iona Oswald had
+sheltered during the home troubles, and many
+valuable lessons he must have learned for the
+strenuous life that lay in front of him. Called
+to lead his countrymen against their oppressors,
+Oswald literally fought his way to the throne. On
+a rising ground, a few miles from Hexham, near
+the Roman Wall, he gathered in 634 a small force,
+which pledged itself to become Christian if it
+conquered in the engagement. Causing a cross of
+wood to be hastily made, and digging a hole for it
+in the earth, he supported it with his own hands
+while his men hedged up the soil around it. Then,
+like Bruce at Bannockburn years afterwards, he
+bade his soldiers kneel with him and entreat the
+true and living God to defend their cause, which he
+knew to be just, from the fierce and boastful foe.
+This done they joined battle, and attacked Cadwallon's
+far superior forces. The charge was
+irresistible. The Welsh army fled down the slope
+towards the Deniseburn,&mdash;a brook near Dilston<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>
+which has been identified with the Rowley Burn,&mdash;and
+Cadwallon himself, the hero of fourteen battles
+and sixty skirmishes, was caught and slain. This
+was the battle of Hefenfelt, or Heaven's Field, as
+after-times called it. Not only was the last hero
+of the old British races utterly routed, but Oswald,
+King of once more reunited Bernicia and Deira,
+proved himself to the Christian cause all that
+Edwin had been, and more, a prince in the prime
+of life, and fitted by his many good qualities to
+attract a general enthusiasm of admiration, reverence,
+and love. Resolved to restore the national
+Christianity, and to realize the ambitions of his
+exile life, he turned naturally to Iona and to the
+teachers of his youth for missionaries who would
+accomplish the holy task. At his request, Aidan,
+one of the fittest of the Columban band, was sent to
+carry on the work of evangelization in Northumbria,
+which happy event may be reckoned as the first
+permanent planting of the Gospel in the Eastern
+Border. The light which he kindled was never
+afterwards quenched. And as Columba had chosen
+Iona, so for Aidan there was one spot to which his
+heart went out above all others. This was the
+island-peninsula of Lindisfarne, off the Northumbrian
+coast, so called from the little river Lindis,
+which here enters the sea, and the Celtic <i>fahren</i>,
+"a recess." Bede has a fine passage which is worth
+quoting:&mdash;"On the arrival of the Bishop (Aidan)
+King Oswald appointed him his episcopal see in
+the isle of Lindisfarne, as he desired. Which
+place as the tide flows and ebbs twice a day, is
+enclosed by the waves of the sea like an island;
+and again, twice in the day, when the shore is left<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>
+dry, becomes contiguous to the land. The King
+also humbly and willingly in all cases giving ear
+to his admonitions, industriously applied himself
+to build and extend the church of Christ in his
+kingdom; wherein, when the Bishop, who was not
+skilful in the English tongue, preached the gospel,
+it was most delightful to see the King himself
+interpreting the Word of God to his commanders
+and ministers, for he had perfectly learned the
+language of the Scots during his long banishment.
+From that time many of the Scots came daily into
+Britain, and with great devotion preached the
+word to those provinces of the English over which
+King Oswald reigned, and those among them that
+had received priest's orders, administered to them
+the grace of baptism. Churches were built in
+several places; the people joyfully flocked together
+to hear the Word; money and lands were given
+of the King's bounty to build monasteries; the
+English, great and small, were, by their Scottish
+masters, instructed in the rules and observance
+of regular discipline; for most of them that came
+to preach were monks." (Eccl. Hist. Bk. iii., c. 2).
+Than Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, as it came to
+be called, there is no more sacred spot in Northumbria&mdash;in
+England even. Its history is coeval
+with that of the nation, and it was from that hallowed
+centre of Christian activity that the gospelizing of
+both sides of the Border was planned and prayed over
+many an anxious hour and day. Aidan's missionaries
+went forth planting churches in various places.
+One of the best known of these settlements was
+Old Melrose, the original shrine by the beautiful
+bend of the Tweed, a mile or two down the river<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+from the second and more celebrated Melrose.
+Here Eata, "a man much revered and meek;"
+and Boisil, who gave his name to the neighbouring
+St. Boswells; and Cuthbert, the most illustrious
+of them all, served God with gladness. Of the
+latter, certainly the most conspicuous Borderer
+of his day, something more must be said. Three
+kingdoms claim his birthplace. The Irish Life of
+the Saint alleges him to be sprung of her own blood
+royal; he is affirmed also to have come of noble
+Northumbrian descent; whilst the Scottish tradition
+makes him the child of humble parents, born
+and reared in Lauderdale, one of the sweetest
+valleys of the Border. It is a fact, at any rate,
+that when the light of record first falls upon him
+the youthful Cuthbert is seen as a shepherd lad by
+the Leader; he is religiously inclined, and whilst his
+comrades sleep, he spends whole nights in prayer and
+meditation. One day he hears voices from out the
+unseen calling to him. Another night it is a vision
+of angels that he fancies he beholds bearing the
+soul of the sainted Aidan to the skies. Such was
+Cuthbert, a kind of mystic, a dreamer of strange
+dreams, destined apostle and Bishop, and next to
+Augustine himself the most illustrious figure in the
+annals of English monasticism. The church of
+Channelkirk (anciently Childeschirche) dedicated to
+the Saint, probably indicates his birth-spot. The
+Leader valley is full of legends of his boyhood, the
+whole west of Berwickshire, indeed, being haunted
+ground for Cuthbert's sake. Other great names
+in the history of early Border Christianity are those
+of Benedict Biscop, the founder of the monasteries
+of Jarrow and Monk Wearmouth; Wilfrid, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>
+founder of Hexham; and the Venerable Bede&mdash;the
+"father of English learning"&mdash;whose "Church
+History of the English People" is the greatest of
+the forty-five works that bear his name.</p>
+
+<p>By far the most flourishing epoch in the religious
+development of the Border was the founding of
+the great Abbeys under David I.&mdash;"St. David"&mdash;as
+he is often called, though he was never canonized.
+Whilst still a Prince, he founded a monastery at
+Selkirk, and after his accession to the throne, there
+arose the four stately fanes of Kelso (1128), Melrose
+(1146), Jedburgh (1147), and Dryburgh (1150)&mdash;those
+rich and peaceful homes of art and intellectual
+culture whose ruins now strike us with marvel and
+regret. There is probably no other country district
+equally small in area that can boast a group of ruins
+at once so grand and interesting as those that lie
+within a few miles of each other along the banks
+of the Tweed and Jed. Founded almost contemporaneously,
+they were destroyed about the
+same time, by the same ruthless hands. The story
+of each is the story of all&mdash;burned and rebuilt,
+then spoiled and restored again, time after time,
+until finally at the dismal Hertford Invasion, in
+1545, they all received their death-stroke. Other
+religious centres on the Scottish side were Coldingham
+in Berwickshire, founded in 1098 by King
+Edgar, son of Canmore and St. Margaret; Dundrennan,
+in Kirkcudbrightshire, founded in 1142 by
+Fergus, Lord of Galloway; and Sweetheart or
+New Abbey, founded in 1275 by Devorgoil, great-great-granddaughter
+of David the First. On the
+English side, the Church had a less vigorous growth,
+having no such munificent patron as King David,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>
+but there, too, it could boast of Carlisle Cathedral,
+the Abbey of Alnwick, the Priories of Lanercost, and
+Hexham, and the still more renowned and classic
+Lindisfarne. The history of the latter began, as
+we saw, with the year 635, when Saint Aidan
+accepted the invitation of King Oswald to teach
+the new faith to the Northumbrians. Aidan's
+church, built of wood, and thatched with the coarse
+bents of the links, could not long withstand the
+storms or the brands of the wild sea-rovers. And
+of the stone sanctuary reared under the rule of
+succeeding bishops no portion of the present ruin
+can be considered as forming a part. Sir Walter
+Scott has thrown the spell of his genius around the
+picturesque ruins, but the tragical story of Constance
+of Beverley has no foundation in fact.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 4</h5>
+<h3>HOLY ISLAND CASTLE:<br />
+HARVEST-TIME</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_32">32</a> , <a href="#Page_33">33</a> , <a href="#Page_36">36</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_4" id="Plate_4"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate04.jpg" width="600" height="389" alt="HOLY ISLAND CASTLE: HARVEST-TIME"
+title="HOLY ISLAND CASTLE: HARVEST-TIME" />
+</div>
+
+<h3><a name="BorderWarfare" id="BorderWarfare">BORDER WARFARE</a></h3>
+
+<p>Of Border warfare it were impossible to treat
+within the limits of a library. In no part
+of the kingdom was the fighting and raiding
+spirit more rampant. The Border clans were
+constantly at war with one another, the slightest
+excuse provoking an attack, and not unfrequently
+was there no <i>raison d'être</i> whatever for the accompanying
+ruin and desolation. It ran apparently
+in the blood of those old Borderers to live on unfriendly
+terms with their neighbours, and to seize
+every possible opportunity against them. The
+record of the raids does not lean more to one side
+than another for aggressiveness, though generally
+the Scot has been credited for this quality. But
+as a matter of fact both sides were equally at fault<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+and equally determined. And the onslaughts were
+often of the most savage and persistent kind, and
+were almost entirely unchecked by the legal restraints
+which were set in force. The division of
+the district into East, West and Middle Marches,
+with a sort of vice-regal Warden appointed over
+each, was not always conducive to peace and good
+feeling. At certain times, a day of truce was held
+when the Wardens of both sides met and settled
+any questions that might be in dispute between
+their followers, but occasionally the decision was
+anything but harmonious&mdash;as in the case of the
+Reidswire, for instance. In the "Debateable or
+Threep Lands," which lay partly in England and
+partly in Scotland, between the Esk and the Sark,
+no end of worry and difficulty was experienced.
+"Its chief families were the Armstrongs and Grahams,
+both clans being noted as desperate thieves
+and freebooters. They had frequently to be dealt
+with by force of arms till in the 17th century, the
+Grahams were transported to Ireland, and forbidden
+to return upon pain of death. Other districts of
+the Borders from time to time called forth hostile
+visitations from the Scottish kings or their commissioners,
+when great numbers of the robbers
+were frequently seized and hanged. So late as
+1606, the Earl of Dunbar executed as many as 140
+of them. The Union of the Crowns removed some
+obvious grounds of contention between the English
+and Scottish people, and after the middle of the
+17th century the Borders gradually subsided into
+a more peaceful condition."</p>
+
+<p>It was doubtless due to the exigencies occasioned
+by those frequently recurring wars and raids from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+the 13th to the 16th century that the whole country
+on both sides of the frontier became so thickly
+studded with castles and peel-towers, the numerous
+ruins of which still form a distinctive feature in
+Border scenery, although from times much earlier
+the castles and strongholds were characteristic
+elements in the old Scottish landscape. Alexander
+Hume, of Polwarth, the poet-preacher of Logie,
+near Stirling, in his fine description of a "Summer's
+Day," thus refers to them:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"The rayons of the sunne we see<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Diminish in their strength;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The shade of everie tower and tree,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Extended is in length.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Great is the calm for everie quhair<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The wind is settlin' downe;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The reik thrawes right up in the air,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">From everie tower and towne."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Generally these towers were planted on heights
+overlooking the river-valleys, and, as a rule, within
+sight of one another, in order that the signals of
+invasion or alarm&mdash;flashed by means of the bale
+fire&mdash;might be the more rapidly spread from point
+to point. Very few of them are now entire&mdash;the
+best-preserved on the Scottish side being, perhaps,
+Barns, at the entrance to the Manor valley; Bemersyde,
+still inhabited; and Oakwood on the Ettrick,
+incorporated in the present farm buildings; and
+on the English side, Corbridge and Doddington
+and Whittingham. From a return made in 1460
+we find that Northumberland alone possessed
+37 castles and 78 towers, and the Scottish side was
+equally well strengthened and defended. Amongst
+the larger and more important fortresses on the
+English side were the Castles of Alnwick, Bothal,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+Carlisle, Cockermouth, Coupland, Dilston, Elsdon,
+Etal, Ford, Naworth, Norham, Prudhoe, Wark,
+Warkworth; and on the Scottish side, Berwick,
+Branxholme, Caerlaverock (the true Ellangowan
+of "Guy Mannering"), Cessford, Ferniherst,
+Hermitage, Hume, Jedburgh, Neidpath, Peebles,
+Roxburgh, Threave, Traquair, besides, as has been
+said, hundreds of peel and bastle-houses scattered
+all over the country.</p>
+
+<p>It would be a quite impossible task to chronicle
+the incessant clan-raids of the Border, and to
+narrate all the invasions that took place on either
+side would be to repeat in great measure the general
+history of England and Scotland. But at least
+two authentic reports, covering little more than
+a year, may be quoted as showing the extraordinary
+havoc and destruction caused by the latter. "In
+1544 Sir Ralph Evers and Sir Brian Latoun, with
+an English army, invaded the Scottish Border, and
+between July and November they destroyed 192
+towns, towers, barmkyns, parish churches, etc.;
+slew 403 Scots and took 816 prisoners; carried
+off 10,386 head of cattle, 12,492 sheep, 1296 horses,
+200 goats, and 850 bolls of corn, besides an untold
+quantity of inside gear and plenishing. In one
+village alone&mdash;that of Lessudden (now St. Boswells)&mdash;Sir
+Ralph Evers writes that he burned 16 strong
+bastle-houses. Again in September of the following
+year, the Earl of Hertford a second time invaded
+the country, and between the 8th and the 23rd of
+that month, he razed and cast down the abbeys of
+Jedburgh, Kelso, Dryburgh, and Melrose, and
+burned the town of Kelso. At the same time he
+destroyed about 30 towns, towers and villages on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+the Tweed, 36 on the Teviot, 12 on Rulewater, 13
+on the Jed, 45 on the Kale, 19 on the Bowmont, 109
+in the parishes of Eccles and Duns in Berwickshire,
+with 20 other towns and villages in the same
+county. The places destroyed are all named in
+the report to the English king, along with a classified
+list of that terrible sixteen days' destruction, embracing
+7 monasteries and friars' houses, 16 castles,
+towers and peels, 5 market-towns, the immense
+number of 243 villages, with 13 mills, and 3 hospitals."</p>
+
+<p>It cannot be forgotten that upon Border soil
+were fought at least six of the great historical battles
+of the nation, <i>viz.</i>, Halidon Hill (1333); Otterburn
+(1388); Homildon Hill (1402); Flodden (1513);
+Solway Moss (1542); and Ancrum Moor (1544).
+Of mere internal contests there are the fight at
+Arkinholm (Langholm, 1455), between Scotsmen,
+where James II. broke the power of the Douglases;
+the battle of Hedgeley Moor (1464), and of Hexham
+(1464) between the English adherents of Lancaster
+and York, when the Lancastrians were defeated;
+the affair of Melrose (Skirmish Hill, 1526) between
+Borderers under the Earl of Angus and Buccleuch;
+and Philiphaugh (1645) when Leslie drove Montrose
+from the field. Of what were purely faction fights
+and deeds of daring such as the Raid of the Reidswire
+(1575), and the rescue of Kinmont Willie
+(1596), the ancient ballads will keep their memory
+green for many a year to come.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 5</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF NORHAM<br />
+CASTLE</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_39">39</a> , <a href="#Page_60">60</a> , <a href="#Page_93">93</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_5" id="Plate_5"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate05.jpg" width="600" height="421" alt="VIEW OF NORHAM CASTLE" title="VIEW OF NORHAM CASTLE" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Two great incidents of Border warfare stand
+out before all others&mdash;Otterburn and Flodden.
+Old Froissart has told the story of Otterburn.
+The Scottish barons, tired of the fickleness and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+inactivity of their king, determined to invade
+England, met at Aberdeen, and arranged the preliminaries
+for a great gathering at Southdean,
+beyond Jedburgh. On the day appointed the best
+blood in Scotland was assembled. "There had
+not been for sixty years so numerous an assembly&mdash;they
+amounted to twelve hundred spears and forty
+thousand other men and archers." The Earl of
+Douglas, the Earl of March and Dunbar, and the
+Earl of Moray, with three hundred picked lancers
+and two thousand infantry, burst into Northumberland,
+rode south as far as Durham, and laid waste
+the country. In one of their encounters before
+Newcastle-on-Tyne the Earl of Douglas had a hand-to-hand
+combat with Sir Henry Percy&mdash;- Hotspur,&mdash;who
+was overthrown, Douglas seizing his pennon&mdash;the
+silken streamer bearing his insignia, which
+was fastened near the head of his lance. In triumph
+he exclaimed: "I will carry this token of your
+prowess with me into Scotland, and place it on the
+tower of my castle at Dalkeith, that it may be seen
+from afar." "By God, Earl of Douglas," replied
+Hotspur, "you shall not even bear it out of Northumberland;
+be assured you shall never have this
+pennon to boast of." "You must come then,"
+answered Douglas, "this night and seek for it. I
+will fix your pennon before my tent, and shall see
+if you will venture to take it away." On the
+following evening the Scottish army "lighted high
+on Otterburn," in Redesdale, and there Sir Henry
+and Ralph Percy, with six hundred spears of knights
+and squires and upwards of eight thousand infantry,
+fell upon the Scots, who were but three hundred
+lances, and two thousand others. The fight that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+followed was one of the most spirited in history,
+and ended in the death of Douglas, the capture of
+Hotspur, the serious wounding of his brother, and
+the killing or capture of one thousand and forty
+Englishmen on the field, the capture of eight
+hundred and forty others in the pursuit, and the
+wounding of a thousand more. The Scots lost only
+one hundred slain and two hundred captured.
+"It was," says Froissart, "the hardest and most
+obstinate battle ever fought." The tragic incidents
+of this encounter have been kept alive not historically
+but poetically. It is the immortality of song which
+preserves the memory of Otterburn. No contest
+was more emphatically the "ballad-singer's joy."
+Two ballads, the one Scots, the other English, give
+their respective versions of the event with those
+natural discrepancies between the two, which
+may easily be accounted for on patriotic grounds.
+That given in Scott's "Minstrelsy" is unquestionably
+the finer, and contains the lines so often quoted
+by Scott himself, and at no occasion more pathetically
+than during his visit&mdash;pretty near the end&mdash;to
+the old Douglas shrines in Lanarkshire, the
+locality of "Castle Dangerous":</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"My wound is deep. I fain would sleep;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Take thou the vanguard of the three,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And hide me by the braken bush<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That grows on yonder lilye lea.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"O bury me by the braken bush,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Beneath the blooming brier;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Let never living mortal ken<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That ere a kindly Scot lies here."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The story of Flodden is the darkest, perhaps, on
+the page of Scottish history, and like Otterburn, has
+been written in strains grand and majestic, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>
+certainly the most heart-moving in the whole
+realm of northern minstrelsy. There Scotland lost
+her King, the Archbishop of St. Andrew's, James's
+natural son, two abbots, twelve earls, seventeen
+lords, four hundred knights, and fifteen thousand
+others, all sacrificed to the fighting pride of James IV.
+of Scotland. Pierced by several strong arrows, the
+left hand hacked clean from the arm, the neck laid
+open in the middle, James's body was carried
+mournfully to Berwick. He had died a hero's
+death, albeit a foolish one. His last words have
+lived in the lines of the rhymer:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Fight on, my men,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Yet Fortune she may turn the scale;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And for my wounds be not dismayed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nor ever let your courage fail.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Thus dying did he brave appear<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Till shades of death did close his eyes;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Till then he did his soldiers cheer,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And raise their courage to the skies."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The era of Blood and Iron on the Borders has passed
+long since. Peace and prosperity prevail on both
+sides of the Tweed. Old animosities are seldom
+spoken of, and hardly ever remembered. A cordial
+amity and good-will and co-operation evidence the
+strength of the cementing element which no loyal
+heart, either north or south, can ever desire to see
+broken.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 6</h5>
+<h3>TWIZEL BRIDGE OF THE<br />
+XIV. CENTURY</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+<p class="center">
+(<i>Famous in connection with Flodden Field</i>)
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_6" id="Plate_6"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate06.jpg" width="600" height="422" alt="TWIZEL BRIDGE OF THE XIV. CENTURY"
+title="TWIZEL BRIDGE OF THE XIV. CENTURY" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="II_THE_ENGLISH_BORDER" id="II_THE_ENGLISH_BORDER"></a>II. THE ENGLISH BORDER</h2>
+
+<h3>NORTHUMBERLAND</h3>
+
+<p>A line drawn from Berwick to Carlisle, and
+across England to the Coquet, thence north
+again, coast-wise, to the old Tweedside
+borough will give us, for all practical purposes, the
+English Border Country. Only a part of the Roman
+Wall, as far as Crag Loch and Borcovicus (Housesteads),
+will come within the present purview, which
+excludes Newcastle itself and the "coaly Tyne."
+We are to deal with rural Northumberland rather,
+and with a little corner of Cumberland, the immediate
+and true Border. Even at this time of day
+much of the English Border is still a kind of <i>terra
+incognita</i> to the tourist and holiday-maker. For
+travelling facilities have not been of the best
+hitherto. But it is a new order of things now, and
+even the most outlying spots can be reached with
+a wonderful degree of comfort impossible not so
+very long ago. Bewcastle, for instance, and the
+once wild and trackless "Debateable Land"
+between Canonbie and the Solway, have come
+within comparatively easy distance of railroad and
+coaching centres. The crossing of the Solway
+Moss by the Caledonian Route, and the opening
+out of the line from Alnwick to Wooler and Cornhill,
+together with the numerous driving tours that
+are in daily operation during the summer at least,
+have become the <i>open sesame</i> to a district practically
+shut up even less than a half century since. It is
+now possible to breakfast in Carlisle, or Newcastle,
+or much further south for that matter (or north),<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>
+and within an hour or two to be revelling in the
+most delightful rusticities at the foot of the Cheviots,
+or in the very heart of them. The remotest localities
+are rendered accessible even for a single day's
+outing, and a holiday on the English Border is not
+likely to be a disappointing one. There is something
+to suit every taste. If one is archaeologically
+inclined, for instance, Northumberland has one of
+the finest collections of military antiquities in the
+kingdom, from the rude circular camps and entrenchments
+of the primitive inhabitants to the
+great castles and peel-towers of mediæval times.
+The Romans have left a mighty monument of their
+power&mdash;none more significant&mdash;in the huge barrier
+thrown across the lower half of the county, and in
+the stations and roads connected with it. In
+some respects the Roman Wall may be accounted
+Northumberland's principal attraction, and a pilgrimage
+between Tyne and Solway must always
+repay itself. If one is artistically inclined, there
+are beauty-spots for all canvases&mdash;as befits
+the birthplace of such masters as Bewick and
+Foster. And as an angler's paradise the Cheviot
+uplands have long been popular. The historical
+memories of the English Border are outstanding.
+For centuries this little fringe of country was a
+continuous warring-ground for the two nations that
+are now happily one. Upon its soil were fought
+some of the bloodiest, and it must be added, some of
+the most fool-hardy and unjustifiable fights on
+record. In its religious story it has much to boast
+of. By its missionaries and by its sword it won
+England from heathendom to the Christian Church.
+The development of the monastic system in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+Northumbria did more than anything else to civilise
+and colonise the entire realm, Scotland included.
+"Its monasteries," as Green says, "were the seat of
+whatever intellectual life the country possessed,
+and above all, it had been the first to gather together
+into a loose political unity the various tribes of the
+English people, and by standing at their head for
+nearly a century to accustom them to a national
+life out of which England as we have it now was
+to spring."</p>
+
+<p>The physical conditions, generally speaking,
+are similar on both sides of the Border. Wide
+arable expanses, well-wooded and fertile, cover the
+chief valleys and much of the Northumbrian
+coast-line. But in the main, the landscape is purely
+pastoral for miles, showing few signs of human life,
+and the nearest habitation often at a considerable
+distance. The Northumbrian uplands are confined
+chiefly to the Cheviots, the Pyrenees on a small
+scale; two-thirds of their whole three hundred
+square miles are in the county, constituting
+perhaps the loveliest cluster of pastoral hills in the
+island. Of this group, Cheviot&mdash;to be more distinctive,
+<i>the</i> Cheviot&mdash;(2676 feet) sits in the centre
+almost, dignified and massive, the "recumbent guardian
+of the great lone moorland." Others, taking
+them according to height, are Cairn Hill (2545),
+Hedgehope (2348), Comb Fell (2132), Cushat Law
+(2020), Bloody Bush Edge (2001), Windy Gyle
+(1963), Dunmore (1860), Carter Fell (1600), and
+Yeavering Bell (1182)&mdash;a graceful cone overlooking
+the pretty hamlet of Kirknewton. A climb to the
+broad back of the Cheviot, or the rounded top of
+Yeavering, should be made by every tourist who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>
+rambles along the Border. Both are reachable
+from the Scottish and English sides, as by Bowmont
+and Colledge Waters, or by that loveliest of all the
+upland dales, Langleeford. Despite the somewhat
+quagmire character of its flat summit, the view
+from the Cheviot, as one might expect, is a truly
+inspiring one, comprising the whole coast-line
+between Berwick and Tynemouth, and the vast
+inland expanse from Midlothian to the Solway&mdash;the
+Scottish Border <i>in toto</i>. The Cheviots are hills
+rather than the "mountains blue" of poetic
+licence. Yet all are imposing to a degree, and
+exhibit an excellent contour against the sky-line.
+They have none of the wildness and savagery of the
+Highland ranges, and even the steepest are grass-grown
+from skirt to summit, being easy of ascent,
+and commanding the most varied and brilliant
+prospects.</p>
+
+<p>Robert Crawford sings of them as "Cheviot
+braes so soft and gay," and Gilpin likens the hirsels
+browsing on the most acclivitous to pictures hung
+on immense green walls. From time immemorial
+those charming uplands have been grazed by the
+quiet, hardy, fine-wooled, white-faced breed of
+sheep which bear their name; and in the days of
+the raids (for this is the true "raider-land" of
+history) they were resonant, more than any other
+part of Scotland, with the clang of freebootery
+and the yell of strife. Mrs. Sigourney's apostrophe
+to the present day flocks may be quoted:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Graze on, graze on, there comes no sound<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Of Border warfare here,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">No slogan cry of gathering clan,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">No battle-axe, or spear.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span><br /></span>
+<span class="i0">No belted knight in armour bright,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With glance of kindled ire,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Doth change the sports of Chevy-Chase<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To conflict stern and dire.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Ye wist not that ye press the spot,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where Percy held his way<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Across the marches, in his pride,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The "chiefest harts to slay;"<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And where the stout Earl Douglas rode<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Upon his milk-white steed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With "fifteen hundred Scottish spears,"<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To stay the invaders' deed.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Ye wist not, that ye press the spot<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where, with his eagle eye,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">King James, and all his gallant train,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To Flodden-Field swept by.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The Queen was weeping in her bower,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Amid her maids that day,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And on her cradled nursling's face<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Those tears like pearl-drops lay:<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Graze on, graze on, there's many a rill<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Bright sparkling through the glade,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where you may freely slake your thirst,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With none to make afraid.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">There's many a wandering stream that flows<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">From Cheviot's terraced side,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Yet not one drop of warrior's gore<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Distains its crystal tide.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<h5>PLATE 7</h5>
+<h3>FLODDEN FIELD AND<br />
+THE CHEVIOT HILLS</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_40">40</a> , <a href="#Page_48">48</a> , <a href="#Page_99">99</a> , <a href="#Page_103">103</a> , <a href="#Page_121">121</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_7" id="Plate_7"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate07.jpg" width="600" height="431" alt="FLODDEN FIELD AND
+THE CHEVIOT HILLS" title="FLODDEN FIELD AND
+THE CHEVIOT HILLS" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Of the river valleys running south of the Border
+line, the chief are the Breamish, or the Till, as it
+is termed from Bewick Brig&mdash;the "sullen Till"
+of "Marmion"; the Aln, from Alnham Kirk to
+the sand-banks of Alnmouth, a glen emphatically
+rich in legendary lore; the Coquet, the most
+picturesque and most popular trouting-stream in
+the North of England; and Redesdale, redolent
+of "Chevy Chase," rising out of Carter Fell, and
+joining the North Tyne at Redesmouth, a little
+below the pleasant market-town of Bellingham.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>
+The chief towns are Berwick and Alnwick, Hexham
+being outside our present delimitation. Many
+of the smaller places, and the villages, are models
+of their kind. Wooler, at the base of the Cheviots,
+is a choice mountaineering and angling centre, from
+which, by way of Langleeford, is the favourite route
+to Cheviot top. It was at the Whitsun Tryst or
+Wooler sheep fair, that Scott's grandfather spent
+his old shepherd's thirty pounds in buying a horse
+instead of sheep, but with such happy results in
+the sequel. And hither came Scott himself in
+August, 1791, to imbue his mind with the legends,
+the history, and scenery of the neighbourhood.
+"Behold a letter from the mountains," he writes
+to his friend William Clerk, "for I am very snugly
+settled here, in a farmer's house (at Langleeford),
+about six miles from Wooler, in the very centre
+of the Cheviot hills, in one of the wildest and most
+romantic situations, which your imagination, fertile
+upon the subject of cottages, ever suggested. 'And
+what the deuce are you about there?' methinks
+I hear you say. Why, sir, of all things in the world,
+drinking goat's whey; not that I stand in the least
+need of it, but my uncle having a slight cold, and
+being a little tired of home, asked me last Sunday
+evening if I would like to go with him to Wooler;
+and I, answering in the affirmative, next morning's
+sun beheld us on our journey through a pass
+in the Cheviots, upon the backs of two special nags,
+and man Thomas behind with a portmanteau, and
+two fishing-rods fastened across his back, much
+in the style of St. Andrew's cross. Upon reaching
+Wooler we found the accommodation so bad that
+we were forced to use some interest to get lodgings<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>
+here, where we are most delightfully appointed,
+indeed. To add to my satisfaction we are
+amidst places renowned by feats of former days;
+each hill is crowned with a tower, or camp, or
+cairn; and in no situation can you be near more
+fields of battle&mdash;Flodden, Otterburn, and Chevy
+Chase. Ford Castle, Chillingham Castle, Coupland
+Castle and many another scene of blood are within
+the compass of a forenoon's ride. Out of the brooks
+with which the hills are intersected, we pull trouts
+of half a yard in length, as fast as we did the perches
+from the pond at Pennicuik, and we are in the very
+country of muirfowl.... My uncle drinks
+the whey here, as I do ever since I understood it
+was brought to his bedside every morning at six,
+by a very pretty dairymaid. So much for my
+residence. All the day we shoot, fish, walk, and
+ride; dine and sup on fish struggling from the
+stream, and the most delicious heath-fed mutton,
+barn-door fowls, pies, milk cheese, etc, all in perfection;
+and so much simplicity resides amongst
+those hills that a pen, which could write at least,
+was not to be found about the house, though
+belonging to a considerable farmer, till I shot the
+crow with whose quill I write this epistle." (See
+Lockhart, chapter vi.). In this passage we have
+an interesting glimpse of what Northumberland
+was a hundred years ago, and of the great author
+enjoying a holiday while yet reading for the law,
+and before fame began to blow her trumpet in his
+praise.</p>
+
+<p>Sweeter villages than Etal and Ford could
+scarcely be imagined out of Arcadia. Etal Castle
+was destroyed by James IV. previous to Flodden,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+and has never been restored. Ford Castle, built
+originally in 1287, has been frequently renovated
+and enlarged, and is now a most excellent example
+of the military style of architecture plus the modern
+mansion house. Formerly held by the Herons, its
+chatelaine figures in "Marmion" as the syren
+who detained the King when he ought to have
+been in the field. The frescoes in Ford schoolroom,
+painted by the late Lady Waterford, are objects
+not only of good art but of a well-conceived philanthropy.
+Ancroft and Lowick, Chatton and Chillingham
+are delightful summer resorts. Chillingham
+is famous for its Elizabethan Castle, but still more
+so, perhaps, for its herds of wild cattle, the survivors
+of the wild ox of Europe, and the supposed
+progenitors of our domestic cattle. Other
+summer resorts are Belford and Doddington, but
+the whole coast-line, indeed, is dotted with the most
+desirable holiday-nooks in the county.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 8</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF WARKWORTH</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp.<a href="#Page_39">39</a> ,<a href="#Page_51">51</a> ,<a href="#Page_52">52</a> ,<a href="#Page_56">56</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_8" id="Plate_8"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate08.jpg" width="600" height="394" alt="VIEW OF WARKWORTH"
+title="VIEW OF WARKWORTH" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The Coquet bears the palm for picturesqueness
+amongst Northumbrian valleys, and is about forty
+miles in length. From Alwinton, the first village
+after crossing the Cheviots, where the Alwine
+joins the Coquet&mdash;"a place of slumber and of
+dreams remote among the hills"&mdash;to Warkworth
+Castle, the stream carries history and romance
+in every league of its course. Here are such
+names as Biddlestone, the "Osbaldistone," of
+"Rob Roy" (there are other claimants such as
+Chillingham and Naworth); Harbottle, a hamlet of
+venerable antiquity; Holystone, mentioned already
+in connection with Paulinus; Hepple, with the
+remnant of a strong peel tower of the Ogles; and
+Rothbury, the capital of Upper Coquetdale, a snug<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+township in the midst of an amphitheatre of the
+wild, stony Simonside hills. In the old days it was a
+reiving centre of notoriety. All this part of Northumberland,
+indeed, was a constant freebooting
+arena, neither Scots nor English being content without
+some fray on hand. There is not a village, or
+a town, or farmhouse even, but has some tale to tell
+of that uncanny period. Cragside, Lord Armstrong's
+palatial seat, reclaimed, like Abbotsford, from the
+barren mountain side, is within a mile of Rothbury.
+Then come Brinkburn Priory, "an ancient fabric
+awful in repose," founded by William de Bertram,
+lord of Mitford, in the reign of Henry I.; Felton, a
+neat little village, where Alexander of Scotland
+received the homage of the Northumbrian barons;
+and Warkworth, "proud of the Percy name," one
+of the quaintest and oldest towns in Northumberland,
+and teeming with historical and romantic
+associations. So near the sea, and with some of the
+rarest river scenery in the county close at hand,
+the place is in high favour as a holiday resort.
+A Saxon settlement, all interest centres around
+its dismantled Castle, believed to have been built
+by Roger Fitz-Richard, to whom Henry II. granted
+in 1158 the manor of Warkworth. Strengthened
+from time to time, it became a Percy possession,
+and was the chief residence of the family to the
+middle of the 15th century. At the height of its
+power it must have been well-nigh impregnable,
+encircled on three sides by the winding banks and
+overhanging woods of the Coquet, and on a commanding
+eminence above it; and though time and
+many devastating hands have long since riven its
+ancient walls, the pile still presents a splendid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+example of a baronial stronghold, second to few
+on the Borders.</p>
+
+<p>Among Northumbrian towns, Alnwick (the
+county town) ranks next to Newcastle. But
+whilst the rise of the latter and its prosperity and
+colour have been each affected by the great industrial
+changes of the century, Alnwick's development
+has been very different. Lying peacefully
+amidst pastoral hills, by the side of a river unpolluted
+by modern commerce, this ancient Border
+town still presents the plain and austere aspect
+which it wore when the great stage-coaches passed
+through on their way from London to Edinburgh.
+In Newcastle, despite its numerous relics of antiquity,
+one's mind is ever dominated by the potent
+Present, whereas in Alnwick, it is ever under
+the spell of the dreamy Past. The quaint, irregular
+stone-built houses are touched with the sober hues
+of antiquity, and seem to take their character from
+the great baronial relic of feudal times. The
+history of the town is chiefly a record of</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Old unhappy far-off things,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And battles long ago."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>It was founded by the Saxons, who styled it Alainwick,
+"the town on the clear water." Like Carlisle,
+its history is largely one of attack and retaliation.
+The Scottish Sovereigns were peculiarly unfortunate
+at Alnwick. For here Malcolm Canmore was
+speared to death in 1093, and William the Lion
+made prisoner in 1174, and inside the castle of
+to-day with its gilded ceilings, luxurious upholstery,
+and majestic mantels of Italian workmanship
+and marbles, are still to be seen the dour dungeons
+in which many a Scot died miserably while the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>
+Percy and his retainers feasted above. King
+John burned Alnwick to the ground in 1216, David
+I. besieged and captured it. Each of the Edwards
+visited the place. It was again devastated by the
+Scots in 1427. In 1463, it was held for Edward
+IV., and in 1464 it fell into the hands of Queen
+Margaret. Royalists and Roundheads occupied
+Alnwick during the wars between Charles and his
+Parliament, but after 1700 it settled down to comparative
+quiet. The Castle, of course, dominates
+the place. There is what William Howitt calls "an
+air of solemn feudality" overhanging the whole
+town. Streets and buildings, and the general
+tone harmonize well with the prevailing conditions.
+Only one of its four gates survives&mdash;the gloomy, old,
+weather-beaten Bondgate, built by the haughty
+Hotspur about the year 1450. The Cross dates
+from the same period. The most interesting and
+venerable structure is the Church of St. Mary and
+St. Michael, founded about the beginning of the
+14th century, Perpendicular in style, and abundant
+in Percy memorials. But the chief object of interest
+is the Castle with the Castle enclosure (some five
+acres in extent). The Castle itself is the most
+magnificent specimen of a feudal fortress in England,
+a verdict in which all who see it will agree. What
+an extraordinarily fascinating and profoundly impressive
+place, from the very stones of the courtyard
+to the defiant-looking warrior figures on the
+battlements of the barbican, and elsewhere. What
+an endless succession of towers and turrets (some
+of them with distinctive names, Hotspur and
+Bloody Gap) archways and corridors, walls and
+embrasures, and all the grim massive paraphernalia<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>
+of the past, apparently as doggedly determined as
+ever. Perhaps, as one writer puts it, only a Percy
+could live quite at his ease as master of Alnwick
+Castle. One cannot imagine the average man
+making himself congenially at home here. But
+the inside comforts are an overflowing compensation
+for a somewhat forbidding exterior. We are told
+that even the towers at the angles of the encircling
+walls are museums of British and Egyptian antiquities,
+and game trophies, collected by members
+of the family. The fourth Duke has left much to
+show for the quarter of a million he lavished upon
+the building&mdash;exquisite wood carving, frescoes,
+marbles, and canvases. Mantovani, who restored
+the Raphael frescoes in the Vatican, was not too
+great a man to be hired by a Percy to adorn his
+Border castle. The walls of the grand staircase
+are panelled with beautiful marbles. There are
+unique paintings: the dining-room, a noble apartment,
+is pompous with Percys in fine frames, bewigged,
+robed and plain; the first Duke and his
+wife, who helped him to a dignity neither his money
+nor his courtly manners could have won for him,
+hang suitably in the place of honour above the
+hearth. Vandyck, Moroni, and Andrea del Sarto
+are worthily represented in the castle. Giorgione,
+who did so well the comparatively little he had
+time for, is here in his "Lady with the Lute."
+Raphael, Guido, and Titian are also within these
+swarthy outer walls, Titian's landscape contribution
+being specially notable, like Giovanni Bellini's
+"The Gods enjoying the Fruits of the Earth."
+One looks from it to the fair Northumberland
+country beyond the windows and then at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+splendour and taste of the castle, and fancies,
+inevitably, that the Percys themselves have in
+these later days obtained quite their share of the
+privileges of Bellini's gods. Nothing that makes
+for domestic pleasure is lacking at Alnwick Castle.
+There is a stately library of some 15,000 books,
+with chairs for dreaming and chairs for study;
+and, not to slight meaner comforts, there is a
+kitchen that is a model of its baronial kind, about
+fifty yards distant from the dining-hall, with which
+it communicates by an underground passage.
+The first English possession acquired by the house
+of Percy north of the Tees was Dalton, afterwards
+called Dalton-Percy. Then came Alnwick, originally
+owned by the De Vescis, and purchased from them
+about 1309; Warkworth; Prudhoe-on-Tyne, one
+of the most picturesque of Northumbrian fortresses;
+Cockermouth; and Keeldar, in the Cheviots. And
+what of the Percys who ruled, and still rule, at
+Alnwick in their day of might? Very ancient is
+the name, numbering among its early patriarchs
+such grand old heroes as Manfred the Dane, and</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Brave Galfred, who to Normandy<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With vent'rous Rollo came;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And from his Norman Castles won,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Assumed the Percy name."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The pedigree traces the descent of Angus de Perci
+up to Manfred, and that of Josceline de Louvain
+up from Gerberga, daughter and heiress of Charles,
+Duke of Lorraine, to Charlemagne, and in the
+male line to the ancient Dukes of Hainault. This
+same Josceline, who was brother-in-law to King
+Henry I., married in 1168, Agnes, the great Percy
+heiress, and assumed the name of his wife:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Lord Percy's heir I was, whose noble name<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">By me survives unto his lasting fame;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Brabant's Duke's son I wed, who, for my sake,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Retained his arms, and Percy's name did take."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Their youngest son, Richard de Percy, then head
+of the family, was one of the chief barons who
+extorted Magna Charta from King John, and the
+ninth Lord, Henry, gave much aid to Edward I.
+in the subjugation of Scotland. It was he who
+purchased Alnwick. His son&mdash;another Henry&mdash;defeated
+David II. at Neville's Cross (1346); his
+grandson fought at Crécy; his great-grandson,
+the fourth Lord Percy of Alnwick, was marshal of
+England at the coronation of Richard II., and was
+created the same day Earl of Northumberland.
+By far the greater part of the romance of the Percys
+has centred round Harry Hotspur (eldest son of the
+preceding), whom the dead Douglas defeated at
+Otterburn, and who fell himself at Shrewsbury
+(1403) fighting against Henry IV. The soubriquet
+of Hotspur was given him because "in the silence
+of the night, when others were quietly sleeping, he
+laboured unwearied, as though his spur were hot."</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 9</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF ALNWICK<br />CASTLE</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_38">38</a> , <a href="#Page_49">49</a> , and <a href="#Page_53">53</a>  to <a href="#Page_58">58</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_9" id="Plate_9"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate09.jpg" width="600" height="423" alt="VIEW OF ALNWICK CASTLE" title="VIEW OF ALNWICK CASTLE" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The first Earl was slain at Bramham Moor
+(1408). The second Earl fell fighting for Henry
+VI. at St. Albans in 1455. The third at Towton
+(1461), and it was his brother the fourth Earl who
+comforted himself as he lay bleeding to death on
+Hedgley Moor (1464) that he had "saved the bird
+in his bosom." The fifth Earl was murdered in
+1489. The sixth Earl was the lover of Anne Boleyn,
+maid of honour to Queen Catherine, and had King
+Henry VIII. for his rival, who in great wrath
+commanded Cardinal Wolsey to break off the
+engagement between them. The seventh Earl<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+for espousing the cause of Mary, Queen of Scots, was
+beheaded in 1572. The eighth Earl in 1585 was
+found dead in bed with three pistol shots through
+his breast, whether by suicide or murder. The
+ninth Earl was imprisoned for fifteen years in the
+Tower on a baseless suspicion of being privy to
+the Gunpowder Plot. The tenth Earl fought on
+the Parliamentary side in the Civil War, and with
+the death of Josceline, the eleventh Earl, in 1670,
+the male line of the family came to an end. The
+eleventh Earl's only child&mdash;an heiress&mdash;married
+the Duke of Somerset, who was created in 1749
+Baron Warkworth, and Earl of Northumberland,
+with remainder (having no male issue) to his son-in-law
+Sir Hugh Smithson, of Stanwick, a Yorkshire
+knight who in his youth had been an apothecary
+in Hatton Gardens. Sir Hugh succeeded to the
+Earldom in 1750, and was created in 1766 Earl
+Percy and Duke of Northumberland. The seventh
+Duke succeeded in 1899.</p>
+
+<p>From Alnwick it is fourteen miles to Bamborough,
+"King Ida's castle, huge and square."
+No traveller along the great north road between
+Alnwick and Berwick can fail to be struck with
+an object so boldly prominent as Bamborough.
+Far and wide it meets the vision, and is the more
+conspicuous from the flat character of its surroundings
+and the very open coast. Its base is an almost
+perpendicular mass of basaltic rock overlooking
+the sea, at a height of 150 feet. Founded in 547, it
+suffered many a siege, most of all at the hands of
+the Danes in 933. In the years that followed it
+was being constantly rebuilt, and as constantly
+stormed and broken again. As the great bombards<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>
+left it in the fourth Edward's reign, so it lay dismantled
+for centuries. In 1720, Lord Crewe, the
+philanthropic Bishop of Durham, purchased the
+Castle and bequeathed it for charitable purposes&mdash;the
+reception and care of the poor, etc. In
+1894 it was acquired by the late Lord Armstrong,
+at a cost of a quarter of a million, and fitted up as
+a convalescent home. The charming village of
+Bamborough, nestling within easy distance, has
+some celebrity as a health resort. The church in
+which St. Aidan died is one of the oldest in the
+country, and the churchyard contains Grace Darling's
+tomb. The Farne Islands, the scene of her
+brave exploit, are easily visible from the shore.
+There are seventeen in all, forming three distinct
+groups, Longstone, the heroine's home, lying
+farthest out. It was from the lighthouse on this
+latter island that the noble maiden of barely twenty-two
+descried the wreck of the <i>Forfarshire</i>, the 7th
+September, 1838, and formed her resolve at rescue.
+"He that goes out and sees the savage and iron
+nature of the rocks will not avoid wondering at
+the desperate nature of the attempt," crowned
+by an almost superhuman triumph. On the great
+Farne, or House Island, his favourite place of
+retirement, St. Cuthbert died in 687. How his
+followers bore, from shrine to shrine, the uncorrupted
+body of their Bishop is a tradition well-known.
+"For the space of seven years," says Reginald of
+Durham, "Saint Cuthbert was carried to and fro
+on the shoulders of pious men through trackless
+and waterless places; when no house afforded him
+a hospitable roof, he remained under covering of
+tents." Further, we are told how the monks first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>
+carried their precious burden to the stone church
+at Norham; thence towed it up the river to
+Tillmouth; on to Melrose, the Saint's home-sanctuary
+by the Tweed; thence through the
+Lowland glens towards the English Border where,
+descending the head-waters of the Tyne, they came
+to Hexham; passing westward to Carlisle in
+Cumberland, and Dufton Fells in Westmoreland,
+and over into Lancashire; then once more eastward
+to the monastery at York; and finally
+northward again to a last resting place in Durham,
+when</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i4">"After many wanderings past,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">He chose his lordly seat at last<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where his Cathedral, huge and vast,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Looks down upon the Wear."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<h3><a name="MerrieCarlisle" id="MerrieCarlisle">"MERRIE CARLISLE"</a></h3>
+
+<p>A glance at the outskirts of Carlisle suggests
+at once the fact that its founders had considered
+the strategic value of the site. The
+old Brigantes never planted their towns without
+due examination of the whole lie of the land,
+and especially with a view to its defencibleness.
+The river-junctions were often their favourite
+settling places. Hence the origin of Carlisle, and
+many others of the Border towns&mdash;Hawick, Selkirk,
+Kelso, etc. With its three encompassing streams&mdash;the
+Eden, the Caldew, and the Petteril, which
+still enclose the Castle and Cathedral hills in a sort
+of quasi-island, Carlisle has been aptly called
+"the city of the waters." Its situation certainly
+is all but perfect, whilst the picturesqueness and the
+extensiveness of its surrounding scenery are the
+admiration of all who see it. Built upon a hill<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>
+which its walls once enclosed but which would now
+shut out its most populous suburbs, Carlisle commands
+a prospect only limited by the lofty mountain
+chain that encircles the great basin in which
+Cumberland lies. From the summit of the Cathedral
+or from the Keep of the Castle, the eye sweeps without
+interruption a vast prepossessing landscape, rich
+in wood and water and fertile valleys, over which the
+light and shade are ever gambolling, and the seasons
+spreading their variegated hues. Southward, across
+this fair expanse, the majestic Skiddaw rears his
+noble crest, and Helvellyn his wedge-like peak,
+radiant with the first and last rays of the sun.
+Saddleback, and the lesser hills, link the apparently
+unbroken chain with Crossfell and the eastern
+range; while further to the left the Northumberland
+fells bound the horizon. Then come the uplands
+by Bewcastle and the Border and the pastoral
+Cheviots. Away round to the west, the magnificent
+belt is terminated by "huge Criffel's hoary top"
+standing in solemn grandeur above the Solway.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 10</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF PRUDHOE-ON-TYNE</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_39">39</a>  and <a href="#Page_56">56</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_10" id="Plate_10"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate10.jpg" width="600" height="418" alt="VIEW OF PRUDHOE-ON-TYNE" title="VIEW OF PRUDHOE-ON-TYNE" />
+</div>
+
+<p>There are few fairer or wider panoramas in
+Britain, and none more permeated with the very
+spirit of romance. What Lockhart said of Sandyknowe
+is equally true of this singularly fascinating
+view-point. To whichever hand we turn we may be
+sure there is "not a field but has its battle, and not
+a rivulet without its song."</p>
+
+<p>Unlike Melrose, which may claim to be the literary
+capital of the Border Country, Carlisle is the
+fighting capital. Its most stirring memories are of
+raiders and rescues, and its very air is</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i4">"full of ballad notes<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Borne out of long ago."<br /></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></div></div>
+
+<p>Despite its Cathedral, Carlisle is really more Scottish
+than English. A town which proclaimed the
+Pretender must be Scottish enough. No other
+English town fills so large a place in Scottish history.
+And even its present manners and customs, and no
+little part of its dialect, are coloured with Scottish
+sentiment and tradition. For which it cannot be
+a whit the worse! Walk about Carlisle, and one
+is charmed with the exquisite pleasantness of the
+place, the sense of comfort and prosperity that
+reigns in its streets and suburbs, the steady flow of
+traffic running through it, and the welcome geniality
+of its inhabitants. What a delightful spot is Stanwix
+yonder, for instance! And the banks of
+the Eden have something of those "Eden scenes"
+about them which Burns claimed for the Jed.
+That Bridge is not unlike Rennie's at Kelso. The
+public buildings are worth a more minute examination
+than the passing stranger usually gives. An
+atmosphere of delicious semi-antiquity is the crowning
+feature of "Merrie Carlisle," and one feels
+instinctively that under the inevitable modernity
+of the place there is an older story written on its
+stones&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Old legends, of the monkish page,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Traditions of the saint and sage,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tales that have the rime of age,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And chronicles of eld."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>It is so old a town that one cannot be certain of
+its origin. The name is apparently British, derived
+probably from <i>Caer Lywelydd</i>, or simply Caer
+Lywel, "the town or fort of Lywel," but whether
+this was a tribal, or local, or personal name it would
+be hazardous to say. By the Romans it was known
+as <i>Luguvallium</i> or <i>Luguballia</i>, possibly "the town<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>
+or fort by the Wall." This the Saxons abbreviated
+and altered to <i>Luel</i>, the original name, with the
+prefix <i>Caer</i>, hence Caer-Luel, Caerleil, Carleol,
+Karluil, Karliol, Carliol, Carlile, and Carlisle.</p>
+
+<p>"No English city," says Bishop Creighton,
+"has a more distinctive character than Carlisle,
+and none can claim to have borne its character
+so continuously through the course of English
+history. Carlisle is still known as 'the Border
+city,' and though the term 'the Border' has no
+longer any historical significance, it still denotes a
+district which has strongly marked peculiarities
+and retains a vigorous provincial life. There was
+a time when the western Border was equally important
+with the Border on the north, when the
+fortress on the Dee had to be stoutly held against
+the foe, and when the town which rose among the
+scrub by the upper Severn was a place of conflict
+between contending races. But this struggle was
+not of long duration, and Chester and Shrewsbury
+ceased to be distinctly Border towns. On the north,
+however, the contest continued to be stubbornly
+waged, till it raised up a population inured to warfare,
+who carried the habits of a predatory life
+into a time when they were mere survivals of a
+well-nigh forgotten past. Of this period of conflict
+Carlisle is the monument, and of this lawless life
+it was long the capital. Berwick-upon-Tweed
+alone could venture to share its glory or dispute
+its supremacy; but Berwick was scarcely a town;
+it was rather a military outpost, changing hands
+from time to time between the combatants; it
+was neither Scottish nor English, more than a
+castle, but less than a town, an accidental growth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>
+of circumstances, scarcely to be classed as an
+element of popular life. Carlisle, on the other
+hand, traces its origin to times of venerable antiquity,
+and can claim through all its changes to have
+carried on in unbroken succession the traditions
+of an historic life. It was the necessary centre
+of a large tract of country, and whether its inhabitants
+were British or English its importance remained
+the same. It was not merely a military
+position, but a place of habitation, the habitation
+of a people who had to trust much to themselves,
+and who amidst all vicissitudes retained a sturdy
+spirit of independence. This is the distinguishing
+feature of Carlisle; it is 'the Border city.' But
+though this is its leading characteristic which runs
+through all its history, it has two other marks of
+distinction, when compared with other English
+towns. It is the only town on British soil which
+bears a purely British name; and it is the only
+town which has been added to England since the
+Norman Conquest."</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 11</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF CARLISLE</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_44">44</a> , and <a href="#Page_60">60</a>  to <a href="#Page_70">70</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 443px;">
+<a name="Plate_11" id="Plate_11"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate11.jpg" width="443" height="600" alt="VIEW OF CARLISLE" title="VIEW OF CARLISLE" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Briefly, the headlines of Carlisle's history are
+these. Founded originally by the Britons, it was
+held by the Romans for close on four centuries.
+Many Roman remains (coins, medals, altars, etc.)
+have been unearthed, and Hadrian's big Wall
+(murus and vallum) is still traceable in several
+quarters. A sad spoliation by Pict and Scot
+followed the Roman withdrawal. They scarcely
+left one stone on another. Then came the Saxon
+supremacy under the good King Egfrith, with the
+spiritual oversight under Saint Cuthbert, to whom
+and his successors at Lindisfarne were bestowed
+in perpetuity the city with fifteen miles around it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>
+But for Egfrith's death fighting the Picts on the
+far-off moorland of Nechtansmere (Dunnichen in
+Forfarshire) Carlisle might have risen early and
+rapidly to a sure place as one of the leading cities in
+the land. From 685, however, to the Conquest (1066)
+the place was virtually extinct. It was only then that
+a new epoch arose for the broken city as for the whole
+of England. The Conqueror himself is said to have
+commenced the rebuilding of Carlisle, but the
+town owes its restoration rather to his son William
+the Red, who, on his return from Alnwick, after
+concluding a peace treaty with the King of Scotland
+in 1092, "observed the pleasantness of its situation,
+and resolved to raise it from its ruins." The Castle,
+the Priory, the once massive city walls, were all
+the work of the Rufus regime, completed by Henry
+I., who gave cathedral dignity to the church at
+Carlisle. David I., the "Sair Sanct," raided Carlisle
+in 1136, and kept court for a time within its
+walls, which he heightened. It was at Carlisle
+that his death took place in 1153. From that
+date to the 'Forty-five, Carlisle's history is mainly
+that of a kind of "buffer-state" between the two
+kingdoms. Few cities recall so many martial
+memories. It was Edward's base of operations in
+his Scottish wars. It was besieged by Wallace in
+1298, by Bruce in 1315&mdash;the year after Bannockburn,
+and again in 1322. Queen Mary's captivity
+at Carlisle in 1568; Buccleuch's daring and gallant
+rescue of Kinmont Willie in 1596, immortalised in
+the best of the Border ballads; the protracted
+siege by General Leslie in 1644 during the Parliamentary
+War; and the Pretender's short-lived
+triumph&mdash;these are the rest of its leading events.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Of the historic Carlisle little is left, the Castle,
+the Cathedral, and the Guildhall being almost the sole
+relics of a long and notable past. Yet how vastly
+changed the place is from the quiet little Border
+town of a century ago even! Then it had barely
+ten thousand inhabitants, now there are over forty
+thousand. As the county town of Cumberland,
+and next to Newcastle the greatest railway centre
+in the north of England, its prosperity has grown
+by leaps and bounds. It is the terminus of no
+fewer than eight different lines, and its busy,
+never-at-rest Citadel Station is known all the
+world over. Gates and walls have long since
+vanished from "Merrie Carlisle." The streets are
+wide and airy, and altogether it presents a most
+comfortable and thriving appearance. At 40, English
+Street, the chief thoroughfare, Prince Charlie slept
+for four nights during the '45. And from 79 to 83,
+Castle Street, the corner building (now a solicitor's
+office), between Castle Street and the Green-market,
+Scott led Miss Carpenter to the altar. Carlisle
+Castle, a huge, irregular reddish-brown stone structure,
+grim and defiant, with its almost perfect
+specimen of a Norman Keep, and battlements
+frowning towards the north, is still a place to see.</p>
+
+<p>But it is the Cathedral which is Carlisle's
+chief glory. Rising in the centre of the city, high
+above all other buildings except the factory chimneys,
+there is an air of importance about it not
+altogether justifiable. The building is small and
+not of very great account, the reason being that
+Carlisle was only erected into a See in 1133, and then
+out of Durham. The result was that the parish
+church was promoted to the dignity of a cathedral.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>
+Nevertheless, it has several striking features&mdash;a
+delightful Early English choir and magnificent
+east window, reputed to be unsurpassed by any
+other in the kingdom, if indeed in the world. From
+1092, the date of the original building, to 1400-19,
+in Bishop Strickland's time, when the north transept
+was restored and the central tower rebuilt,
+and down to the present day, the edifice contains
+every variety of style, from Norman to Perpendicular,
+with admirable specimens of nineteenth
+century work. Of the original Norman minster
+the only parts remaining are two bays of the nave,
+the south transept, and the piers of the tower.
+How long the church remained in its pristine state
+it is impossible to say. The first alteration was
+probably the enlargement of the choir, towards
+the middle and close of the thirteenth century,
+immediately before the great fire of 1292, the worst
+the cathedral has experienced in its four burnings.
+The work of reconstruction after 1292 appears to
+have been somewhat slow, so slow that little was
+done till the year 1352, when Bishop Welton and
+his successor set themselves in earnest to the task.
+"The king, the city treasury, and the leading
+families of the neighbourhood contributed towards
+the restoration, in response to the urgent appeals
+of the bishops and to the indulgences issued for the
+remission of forty days' penance to such laity as
+should by money, materials, or labour, contribute
+to the pious work." Towards the close of the
+reign of Edward III. the renovated pile rose from
+it ruins. To this period belongs the entire east end,
+with its grand window, the triforium, the carved
+capitals of the arches, and the Decorated windows<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>
+of the clerestory. The ceiling was painted and
+gilded and panelled, the intersections glowing with
+the armorial bearings of the rich donors by whose
+liberality the work had been carried to completion.
+The windows were filled with stained glass, and
+the nine lights of the east window with figures.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 12</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF NAWORTH<br />CASTLE</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_39">39</a>  and <a href="#Page_74">74</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_12" id="Plate_12"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate12.jpg" width="600" height="434" alt="VIEW OF NAWORTH CASTLE" title="VIEW OF NAWORTH CASTLE" />
+</div>
+
+<p>In this state the cathedral appears to have
+remained till 1392, when another fire occurred,
+which destroyed the north transept. A lack of
+funds was again felt, and it was not till the lapse
+of nine or ten years that the restoration was completed.
+Only about a century later, however,
+Carlisle shared the fate of the monastic institutions,
+and was suppressed, and the church shorn of many
+of its enrichments. The Civil Wars witnessed the
+worst acts of spoliation, when nearly the whole
+of the nave, the chapter-house and cloisters were
+destroyed, the materials being used for guard-house
+purposes in the city. The reign of the "Puritan
+patchwork" may then be said to have begun,
+with plaster partitions here and there in horrifying
+evidence, the niches emptied of their treasures,
+and the fine old stained glass removed from the
+windows&mdash;and all, as was declared, in the spirit of
+"repairing and beautifying." "A great, wild
+country church," is its description about this time,
+"and as it appeared outwardly, so it was inwardly,
+ne'er beautify'd, nor adorn'd one whit." Not till
+1853-57 was a general restoration, costing £15,000,
+inaugurated. Both internally and externally the
+edifice underwent a total renovation. Old and
+crumbled portions were pulled down and rebuilt;
+other parts were fronted anew; missing ornaments
+were supplied; ugly doorways were blocked up,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>
+and one grand entrance made befitting the church.
+The renaissance was complete as it was judicious.
+There was just sufficient of the old left to show
+the original structure, and sufficient of the new
+imparted to save the venerable fane from crumbling
+to pieces. Externally, the east is certainly the
+finest part of the building, with its unrivalled
+window&mdash;58 feet high and 32&frac12; feet wide, of nine
+lights, gracefully proportioned, the head filled
+with the most exquisite tracery-work, comprising
+no fewer than 263 circles. A uniquely ornamented
+gable, with a row of crosses on either shoulder,
+and a large cross at the apex, completes a highly
+finished centre. On either side stands out, in
+massive relief, a majestic buttress, containing full
+length statues of St. Peter, St. Paul, St James,
+and St. John, above which are light and elegant
+pinnacles. These great buttresses are flanked by
+the lesser ones of the aisles, tapering upwards with
+chastely carved spires&mdash;the whole forming an
+eastern front of great beauty and richness. The
+main entrance by a new doorway in the south
+transept is a triumph of the sculptor's skill. The
+great tower, 112 feet high, has been thoroughly
+renovated, and much of its former ornamentation
+restored. Of the interior, the nave is in length
+39 feet, and in width about 60 feet. The Scots
+are said to have destroyed 100 feet of it in 1645,
+but that is quite uncertain. It has never been
+rebuilt, and has a serious effect on the general
+proportions, inducing a feeling of want of balance.
+Up to 1870 the nave was used as the parish church
+of St. Mary, and it was here&mdash;close by the great
+Norman columns&mdash;that Sir Walter Scott was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>
+married to Charlotte Carpenter, on December 24th,
+1797. The spot might well be indicated by a small
+memorial brass. The richly-decorated choir, in
+no respect inferior to that of any other English
+cathedral, is 134 feet long, 71 feet broad, and 75
+feet high. The warm red of the sandstone, the
+blue roof powdered with golden stars, the great
+east window filled with stained glass, and the dark
+oak of the stalls, make up a picture that enforces
+attention before the architectural details can receive
+their due admiration.</p>
+
+<p>The Cathedral contains several interesting
+monuments. Here is the tomb of Archdeacon Paley
+(1805), author of the "Evidences of Christianity"
+and "Horæ Paulinæ," both written at Carlisle,
+and the richly-carved pulpit inscribed to his memory.
+There are tablets to Robert Anderson (1833), the
+"Cumberland Bard;" to John Heysham, M.D.
+(1834), the statistician, and compiler of the "Carlisle
+Tables of Mortality;" George Moore (1876), the
+philanthropist; M. L. Watson (1847), the sculptor;
+Dean Cranmer (1848), Canon Harcourt (1870), and
+Dean Close (1882). Several military monuments
+are in evidence. One of the windows commemorates
+the five children of Archbishop Tait (then Dean),
+who died between March 6th and April 9th, 1856.
+Recumbent figures of Bishop Waldegrave (1869),
+Bishop Harvey Goodwin (1891) and Dean Close
+are by Acton Adams, Hamo Thorneycroft, R.A.,
+and H. H. Armistead, R.A., respectively. The
+older altar-tombs and brasses to Bishop Bell,
+Bishop Everdon, and Prior Stenhouse, should not
+be overlooked, and attention may be drawn also to
+the quaint series of fifth-century paintings from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>
+the monkish legends of St. Augustine, St. Anthony,
+and St. Cuthbert, and to the misereres of the
+stalls.</p>
+
+<p>Scarcely less interesting than Carlisle itself is
+the immediate neighbourhood of the Border city.
+And with what sterling picturesqueness does it
+appeal to us! One does not wonder that Turner
+and others found some of their masterpieces here.
+A wondrously historic countryside, too, is all this
+pleasantly-rolling tableland, mile upon mile to
+the Liddesdale and Eskdale heights with the
+Langholm Monument fairly visible as a rule, and
+sometimes even the famous Repentance Tower
+opposite Hoddom Kirk. Within twenty miles or
+so of Carlisle, up through the old Waste and Debateable
+Lands, or over into the romantic Vale of the
+Irthing, the dividing-point betwixt Cumberland
+and Northumberland, the district is full of the most
+fascinating material for the geographer and the
+historian. It is impossible to do more than mention
+a few of its memory-moving names. At Burghby-Sands,
+Edward I., "the Hammer of the Scots,"
+having offered up his litter before the high altar
+at Carlisle, vowing to reduce Scotland to the condition
+of a mere English province, was forced to
+succumb to a grimmer adversary than lay anywhere
+beyond the Solway. Bowness-by-the-Sea
+was the western terminus of the Roman Wall.
+Arthuret has its name from the "Flower of Kings,"
+one of whose twelve battles is said to have been
+fought there. Archie Armstrong, jester to King
+James VI., lies buried in its churchyard. At
+Longtown, on the Esk, the Jacobite troops forded
+the river "shouther to shouther," as Lady Nairne's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>
+lyric has it, dancing reels on the bank till they
+had dried themselves. Netherby, the <i>locale</i> of
+"Young Lochinvar," Lady Heron's song in "Marmion,"
+is in the near neighbourhood. So are Gilnockie
+or the Hollows, Johnie Armstrong's home,
+and Gretna Green, that once so popular but now
+defunct shrine of Venus. All this once bleak and
+barren bog-land is under generous cultivation now to
+a large extent, stretching from the Sark to the Esk,
+and eastward to Canonbie Lea; it was the
+treacherously Debateable, or No Man's Land of
+moss-trooping times, the most troubled and unsafe
+period of Border history. Solway Moss, some
+seven miles in circumference, is not likely to be
+forgotten&mdash;by Scotsmen, at any rate. It was the
+disastrous Rout of the Solway which hastened
+James V.'s death from a broken heart.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 13</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF LANERCOST<br />PRIORY</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_36">36</a>  and <a href="#Page_74">74</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_13" id="Plate_13"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate13.jpg" width="600" height="428" alt="VIEW OF LANERCOST PRIORY" title="VIEW OF LANERCOST PRIORY" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The Irthing valley is replete with historical
+remains and literary associations. Over there, to the
+north of Bewcastle (Beuth's Castle), there is a celebrated
+Runic Cross nearly fifteen feet high, of the
+Caedmon order, similar to that at Ruthwell. The
+Irthing flows through the wide moorish wilderness
+known as Spade-Adam, or the Waste, crosses the
+Roman Wall at Gilsland, thence courses amongst
+some of the richest scenery in Cumberland until
+it meets the Eden. Gilsland Spa has long been
+noted for the excellence of its waters and the remarkable
+salubrity of the district. Scott stayed at the
+old Shaw's Hotel in July, 1797, not the present
+palatial Convalescent Home (as it now is) which
+was rebuilt after a fire about fifty years since.
+Charlotte Carpenter was a guest at Wardrew House,
+directly opposite. They met often, and the result<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>
+was love and marriage. On a huge boulder by the
+banks of the Irthing, where the glen comes to its
+steepest and wears its most enchanting aspect,
+Scott is said to have "popped the question," and the
+"Kissing Bush" where the compact was sealed is
+also pointed out close by. At Gilsland it is interesting
+to recall that one is to some extent in "Guy Mannering
+Land." A small private dwelling adjoining
+the Methodist Chapel claims to stand on the site
+of the notorious Mumps Ha', "a hedge ale-house,
+where the Border farmers of either country
+often stopped to refresh themselves and their nags
+on their way to and from the fairs and trysts in
+Cumberland." It was there that young Harry
+Bertram first met Dandie Dinmont and the weird
+figure of Meg Merrilies, who, by the way, was not
+buried at Upper Denton, as the guide-books say.
+It was the treacherous landlady, Meg Mumps or
+Margaret Carrick, who is there interred. The more
+important Meg&mdash;the real heroine of the story&mdash;was
+drowned in the Eden at Carlisle. Gilsland is a
+centre for some delightful excursions. Much of
+the Roman Wall may be visited from this centre,
+its two chief stations Borcovicus (Housesteads) and
+Burdoswald being within easy distances. The
+little Northumberland lakes, and the prettiest of
+them all, Crag Loch, the Nine Nicks of Thirlwall,
+seen from the Shaws with fine effect, Thirlwall and
+Blenkinsop Castles, Haltwhistle Church, all to the
+east, are objects of deep and abiding interest. Westward
+are Burdoswald&mdash;the Roman Amboglanna&mdash;covering
+an area of 5&frac12; acres, and overlooking a
+singularly graceful bend of the Irthing (not unlike
+that on the Tweed at Bemersyde); Lanercost<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+Priory<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, founded by Robert de Vaux about 1166,
+frequently plundered by the Scots, and used now
+partly as the parish church and burial-place of the
+Carlisle family; Naworth,<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> the historic seat of the
+Earl of Carlisle, whose ancestor, Lord William
+Howard, was the famous "Belted Will" of Border
+story, who died in 1640:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"His Bilboa blade, by marchmen felt,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Hung in a broad and studded belt;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Hence, in rude phrase, the Borderers still<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Call noble Howard, 'Belted Will,'"&mdash;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>and Triermain Castle, all but vanished, whence
+Scott's "Bridal of Triermain"&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Where is the Maiden of mortal strain,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That may match with the Baron of Triermain?<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She must be lovely, and constant and kind,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Holy and pure, and humble of mind,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Blithe of cheer, and gentle of mood,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Courteous, and generous, and noble of blood&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lovely as the sun's first ray,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When it breaks the clouds of an April day,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Constant and true as the widow'd dove,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Kind as a minstrel that sings of love."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Lanercost is a fine example of Early English. The
+church consists of a nave with north aisle, a transept with
+aisles on the east side used as monumental chapels and
+choir, a chancel, and a low square tower. The nave is
+used as the Parish Church. The crypt contains several
+Roman altars from Burdoswald, etc. Some of the inscriptions
+are of great interest.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> Naworth is said to be one of the oldest and best
+specimens existing of a baronial residence. It is associated
+largely with the turbulent times of Border warfare. "Belted
+Will," a terror to all marauders, is its best-known name,
+"a singular lover of venerable antiquities, and learned
+withal," as Camden describes him. The British Museum
+contains some of his letters, and his library is still preserved
+at Naworth. "Belted Will's" Tower, to the north-east
+of the Castle, is the most notable feature at Naworth.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2><a name="III_THE_TWEED_AND_ITS" id="III_THE_TWEED_AND_ITS"></a>III. THE TWEED AND ITS ASSOCIATIONS.</h2>
+
+<p>"Both are good, the streams of north and
+south, but he who has given his heart to
+the Tweed as did Tyro in Homer to the
+Enipeus, will never change his love." So does
+Mr. Andrew Lang remind us of his affection for
+Tweedside and the Border. Elsewhere he speaks
+of Tweed shrining the music of his cradle song, and
+the requiem he would most prefer&mdash;may that day
+be long in coming!</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i4">"No other hymn<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I'd choose, nor gentler requiem dear<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Than Tweed's, that through death's twilight dim,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Mourned in the latest Minstrel's ear."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Lockhart's description of Sir Walter's death-scene,
+so touching in its very simplicity, has never been
+matched in literary biography. From the first
+years of his life, Scott was wedded to the Tweed.
+It was his ancestral stream. And it stood for all that
+was best and fairest in Border story. It was by the
+Tweed that he won his greatest triumphs, and faced
+his greatest defeats, where he spent the happiest
+as well as the most strenuous period of his career.
+So that, to breathe his last breath by its pleasant
+banks&mdash;a desire oft repeated&mdash;was as natural as it
+was keen and eager. We know how at length
+he was borne back to Abbotsford, the house of his
+dreams, and how on one of those ideal days during
+the early autumn that crowning wish was realised;
+"It was a beautiful day, so warm that every window
+was wide open, and so perfectly still that the sound
+of all others most delicious to his ear&mdash;the gentle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>
+ripple of the Tweed over its pebbles&mdash;was distinctly
+audible as we knelt around the bed and his
+eldest son kissed and closed his eyes."</p>
+
+<p>Of course, it is owing, in great measure, to
+Scott that the Tweed has so exalted a place in
+literature. To speak of the Tweed at once recalls
+Scott and all that the Tweed meant to him. Both
+in a sense are names inseparable and synonymous.
+It is almost entirely for Scott's sake that Tweedside
+has become one of the world-Meccas. What Scott
+did for the Tweed&mdash;the Border&mdash;renders it (to speak
+reverently) holy ground for ever. Hence the
+affection with which the world looks on Scott&mdash;as
+a patriot,&mdash;as one who has helped to create his
+country, and as a great literary magnet attracting
+thousands to it, and as the medium of some of the
+most pleasurable of mental experiences. Of the
+great names on Scotland's roll of honour, Scott,
+even more than all of them (even more than
+Burns), has wedded his country to the very best
+of humankind everywhere. But do not let us
+forget that Tweed had its lovers many before
+Scott's day. Burns's pilgrimage to the Border
+was a picturesque episode in his poetic history.
+"Yarrow and Tweed to monie a tune owre Scotland
+rings," he wrote, and other lines represent a warm
+admiration for the district. Tweed was a "wimpling
+stately" stream, and there were "Eden scenes
+on crystal Jed" scarcely less fascinating. James
+Thomson, the poet of the "Seasons," a Tweedsider,
+though the fact is often forgotten, pays
+grateful homage to the Tweed as the "pure parent-stream,
+whose pastoral banks first heard my Doric
+reed." Allan Ramsay and Robert Crawford,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
+West-country men both, came early under the spell
+of the fair river. Crawford's lines are painted
+with the usual exaggeration of the period:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"What beauties does Flora disclose!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">How sweet are her smiles upon Tweed!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Yet Mary's, still sweeter than those,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Both nature and fancy exceed.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">No daisy, nor sweet blushing rose,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Not all the gay flowers of the field,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Not Tweed, gliding gently through those,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Such beauty and pleasure does yield."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Hamilton of Bangour, best known for his "Braes
+of Yarrow," has an autumn and winter description
+of Tweedside which naturally suggests the like
+picture by Scott in the Introduction to Canto I.
+of "Marmion," and it is more than probable that
+Sir Walter had this in his mind when penning his
+own more perfect lines.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 14</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF BEWCASTLE</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_44">44</a> , <a href="#Page_67">67</a> , <a href="#Page_72">72</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_14" id="Plate_14"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate14.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="VIEW OF BEWCASTLE" title="VIEW OF BEWCASTLE" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Robert Fergusson&mdash;Burns's "elder brother in
+the Muses," had his imagination fired by the
+memories of the Border, and was one of the first to
+celebrate that land over which lies the light of so
+much poetic fancy:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"The Arno and the Tiber lang<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Hae run full clear in Roman sang;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But, save the reverence o' schools!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They're baith but lifeless dowy pools,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dought they compare wi' bonny Tweed,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">As clear as ony lammer-bead?"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Wordsworth, too, sang of the "gentle Tweed, and
+the green silent pastures," though his winsome
+Three Yarrows is the tie that most endears him to
+the Lowland hearts. Since Scott's day the voices
+in praise of Tweed have been legion. "Who, with
+a heart and a soul tolerably at ease within him,
+could fail to be happy, hearing as we do now the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>
+voice of the Tweed, singing his pensive twilight
+song to the few faint stars that have become visible
+in heaven?" says John Wilson in his rollicking
+"Streams" essay (no "crusty Christopher" there, at
+any rate). Thomas Tod Stoddart, king of angling
+rhymers,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i4">"Angled far and angled wide,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On Fannich drear, by Luichart's side;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Across dark Conan's current,"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>and all over Scotland, but found not another stream
+to match with the Tweed:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i4">"Dearer than all these to me<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Is sylvan Tweed; each tower and tree<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That in its vale rejoices;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Dearer the streamlets one and all<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That blend with its Eolian brawl<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Their own enamouring voices!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Remember, too, Dr. John Brown's exquisite Tweed's
+Well meditation, a prose sermon to ponder over
+any Sabbath, and Ruskin's homely reverie&mdash;"I
+can never hear the whispering and sighing of the
+Tweed among his pebbles, but it brings back to
+me the song of my nurse as we used to cross
+by Coldstream Bridge, from the south, in our
+happy days&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"For Scotland, my darling, lies full in my view,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With her barefooted lasses, and mountains so blue."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>One thinks also of George Borrow's fascination
+for the Scottish Border, when he asks ("Lavengro")
+"Which of the world's streams can Tweed envy,
+with its beauty and renown?" and of Thomas
+Aird's pathetic retrospect&mdash;"the ever-dear Tweed,
+whose waters flow continually through my heart,
+and make me often greet in my lonely evenings."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>
+Nor do we forget John Veitch, that truest Tweedsman
+of his time, always musing on the Tweed,
+never at home but beside it, and of whose Romance
+and History there has been no abler exponent.</p>
+
+<p>Of the name Tweed itself, the meaning and
+origin are uncertain, and it is hopeless to dogmatize
+on the subject except to say that there is an apparent
+connection with the Cymric Tay, Taff, Teith,
+and Teviot&mdash;more properly "Teiott," the common
+pronunciation above Hawick. Mr. Johnston
+("Place-Names of Scotland") traces it to the Celtic
+<i>twyad</i>&mdash;"a hemming in"&mdash;from "<i>twy</i> to check or
+bind," which is a not unlikely derivation. As
+to the source of the Tweed there is the curious
+paradox that what passes for its source is not the
+real <i>fons et origo</i> of the stream. Poetically, the
+Tweed is said to take its rise in the tiny Tweed's
+Well among the Southern Highlands, 1250 feet
+above sea level, and close to where the marches of
+Peeblesshire, Lanarkshire, and Dumfriesshire meet.
+But strictly speaking, the correct source is the Cor
+or Corse Burn, a little higher up, which, dancing
+its way to the glen beneath, receives the outflow
+of the Well as a sort of first tributary. For purposes
+of romance, however, Tweed's Well will always
+be reckoned as the source, as indeed it must have
+been so regarded ages ago. The likelihood is that
+Tweed's Well was one of the ancient holy wells
+common to many parts of Scotland. And since tradition
+speaks of a Mungo's Well somewhere in these solitudes,
+the probability is that we have it here in
+the heart of these silent lonely hills. There is the
+tradition of a cross, too, at or near Tweed's Well,
+borne out in the place-name Corse, which, we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>
+know, is good Scots for Cross. That such a symbol
+of the ancient faith stood here long since "to
+remind travellers of their Redeemer and to guide
+them withal across these desolate moors," is more
+than a mere picturesque legend. It is a prolific
+watershed this from which Tweed starts its seaward
+race. South and west, Annan and Clyde
+bend their way to the Solway and the Atlantic,
+as the quaint quatrain has it:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Annan, Tweed, and Clyde<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Rise a' oot o' ae hillside,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Tweed ran, Annan wan,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Clyde brak his neck owre Corra Linn."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Tweed turns its face to the north, and running for
+the most part, as old Pennecuik puts it, "with a
+soft yet trotting stream," it pursues a course of
+slightly over a hundred miles, and drains a basin
+of no less than 1870 square miles, a larger area than
+any other Scottish river except the Tay.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 15</h5>
+<h3>VIEW OF MELROSE</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_23">23</a> , <a href="#Page_35">35</a> , <a href="#Page_39">39</a> , <a href="#Page_60">60</a> , <a href="#Page_61">61</a> , <a href="#Page_89">89</a> , <a href="#Page_90">90</a> , <a href="#Page_91">91</a> , <a href="#Page_123">123</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_15" id="Plate_15"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate15.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="VIEW OF MELROSE" title="VIEW OF MELROSE" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Tweed's Well lies in the bosom of solemn, bare
+hills. There is nothing attractive about the spot.
+Grey moorlands, riddled with innumerable inky
+peat-bogs, the whaups crying as Stevenson heard
+them in his dreams, and the bleat of an occasional
+sheep are the chief characteristics. There is little
+heather, and the hills are hardly so shapely as their
+neighbours further down the valley. A first glance
+is disappointing, but the memories of the place
+are compensation enough. For what a stirring
+place it must have been in the early centuries!
+Here, as tradition asserts, the pagan bard Merlin
+was converted to Christianity through the preaching
+of the Glasgow Saint Mungo. Here Michael Scot,
+the "wondrous wizard," pursued his mysteries.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+And even the Flower of Kings himself wandered
+amongst those wilds, "of fresh aventours dreaming."
+One of his twelve battles is claimed for the
+locality. More historic, perhaps, is the picture of
+the good Sir James of Douglas (red-handed from
+dirking the Comyn) plighting his troth to the
+Bruce at Ericstane Brae, close to Tweed's Well,
+which latter spot, by the way, Dr. John Brown
+characteristically describes in one of his shorter
+"Horæ" papers. Readers of the "Enterkin"
+also will remember his reference to the mail-coach
+tragedy of 1831, when MacGeorge and his companion,
+Goodfellow, perished in the snow in a
+heroic attempt to get the bags through to Tweedshaws.
+At Tweedsmuir, (the name of the parish&mdash;disjoined
+from Drumelzier in 1643)&mdash;eight miles
+down, the valley opens somewhat, and vegetation
+properly begins. Of Tweedsmuir Kirk&mdash;on the
+peninsula between Tweed and Talla&mdash;Lord Cockburn
+said that it had the prettiest situation in
+Scotland. John Hunter, a Covenant martyr, sleeps
+in its bonnie green kirk-knowe&mdash;the only Covenant
+grave in the Border Counties outside Dumfries
+and Galloway. Talla Linns recalls the conventicle
+mentioned in the "Heart of Midlothian," at which
+Scott makes Davie Deans a silent but much-impressed
+spectator. In the wild Gameshope Glen,
+close by, Donald Cargill and James Renwick, and
+others lay oft in hiding. "It will be a bloody night
+this in Gemsop," are the opening words of Hogg's
+fine Covenant tale, the "Brownie of Bodsbeck."
+The Talla Valley contains the picturesque new lake
+whence Edinburgh draws its augmented water
+supply. Young Hay of Talla was one of Bothwell's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>
+"Lambs," and suffered death for the Darnley
+murder. At the Beild&mdash;regaining the Tweed&mdash;Dr.
+John Ker, one of the foremost pulpiteers of his
+generation, was born in 1819. Oliver Castle was
+the home of the Frasers, Lords of Tweeddale before
+they were Lords of Lovat. The Crook Inn was a
+noted "howff" in the angling excursions of Christopher
+North and the Ettrick Shepherd. Mr. Lang
+thinks that possibly the name suggested the "Cleikum
+Inn" of "St. Ronan's Well." At the Crook,
+William Black ends his "Adventures of a Phæton"
+with the climax of all good novels, an avowal of
+love and a happy engagement. Polmood, near by,
+was the scene of Hogg's lugubrious "Bridal of
+Polmood," seldom read now, one imagines. Kingledoors
+in two of its place-names preserves the
+memory of Cuthbert and Cristin, the Saint and his
+hermit-disciple. Stanhope was a staunch Jacobite
+holding, one of its lairds being the infamous Murray
+of Broughton, Prince Charlie's secretary, the Judas
+of the cause. Murray, by the way, was discovered
+in hiding after Culloden at Polmood, the abode of
+his brother-in-law, Michael Hunter. Linkumdoddie
+has been immortalized in Burns's versicles beginning,
+"Willie Wastle dwalt on Tweed"&mdash;a study in
+idiomatic untranslateable Scots. Here is the picture
+of Willie's wife&mdash;a philological puzzle.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"She's bow-hough'd, she's hein-shinn'd,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Ae limpin leg a hand-breed shorter;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She's twisted right, she's twisted left,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To balance fair in ilka quarter;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She has a hump upon her breast,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The twin o' that upon her shouther;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sic a wife as Willie had,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I wadna gie a button for her.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span><br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Auld bandrons by the ingle sits,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">An' wi' her loof her face a-washin';<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But Willie's wife is nae sae trig<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She dights her grunzie wi' a hushion;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Her walie nieves like midden-creels,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Her face wad 'fyle the Logan Water;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sic a wife as Willie had,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I wadna gie a button for her."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>At Drumelzier Castle the turbulent, tyrannical
+Tweedies reigned in their day of might. Of their
+ghostly origin, the Introduction to the "Betrothed"
+supplies the key. They were constantly at feud
+with their neighbours, specially the Veitches, and
+were in the Rizzio murder. See their history (a
+work of genuine local interest) written quite recently
+by Michael Forbes Tweedie, a London scion of the
+clan. In the same neighbourhood, the fragment of
+Tinnis Castle (there is a Tinnis on Yarrow, too,)
+juts out from its bold bluff, not unlike a robber's
+eyrie on the Rhine. Curiously, this is a reputed
+Ossian scene (see the poem, "Calthon and Colmal.")
+The "blue Teutha," is the Tweed&mdash;"Dunthalmo's
+town," Drumelzier. Merlin's Grave, near Drumelzier
+Kirk, should not be forgotten. Bower's
+"Scotichronicon" narrates the circumstances of
+his death: "On the same day which he foretold
+he met his death; for certain shepherds of a chief
+of a country called Meldred set upon him with
+stones and staves, and, stumbling in his agony,
+he fell from a high bank of the Tweed, near the town
+of Drumelzier (the ridge of Meldred), upon a sharp
+stake that the fishers had placed in the waters, and
+which pierced his body through. He was buried
+near the spot where he expired."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Ah! well he loved the Powsail Burn (<i>i.e.</i>, the burn of the willows)<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Ah! well he loved the Powsail glen;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And there, beside his fountain clear,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">He soothed the frenzy of his brain.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Ah! Merlin, restless was thy life,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">As the bold stream whose circles sweep<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Mid rocky boulders to its close<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">By thy lone grave, in calm so deep.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">For no one ever loved the Tweed<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Who was not loved by it in turn;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">It smiled in gentle Merlin's face,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">It soughs in sorrow round his bourn."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>A prophecy of Thomas the Rhymer&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"When Tweed and Powsail meet at Merlin's Grave,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">England and Scotland shall one monarch have,"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>is affirmed to have been literally fulfilled on the
+coronation day of James VI. and I. Passing on,
+we reach the resplendent Dawyck Woods. Here
+are some of the finest larches in the kingdom,
+the first to be planted in Britain, having that
+honour done them by the great Linnaeus himself,
+it is said. Stobo&mdash;semi-Norman and Saxon&mdash;was
+the <i>plebania</i> or mother-kirk of half the county.
+Here lies all that is mortal of Robert Hogg,
+a talented nephew of James Hogg. He was
+the friend and amanuensis of both Scott and Lockhart,
+whom he assisted in the <i>Quarterly</i>. Possessed
+of a keen literary sense, he would almost certainly
+have taken a high place in literature but for the
+consumption which cut short his promising career.
+(See "Life of Scott," vol. ix). At Happrew, in
+Stobo parish, Wallace is said to have suffered
+defeat from the English in 1304. One of the most
+perfect specimens (recently explored) of a Roman<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>
+Camp is in the Lyne Valley, to the left, a little
+above the Kirk of Lyne. On a height overlooking
+the Tarth and Lyne frowns the massive pile of
+Drochil, planned by the Red Earl of Morton, who
+never lived to occupy it, or to finish it, indeed,
+the "Maiden," in 1581, cutting short his pleasures,
+his treacheries and hypocrisies. Now we touch
+the Black Dwarf's Country&mdash;in the Manor Valley,
+to the right. Barns Tower, a very complete peel
+specimen, stands sentinel at the entrance to this
+"sweetest glen of all the South." It is around
+Barns that John Buchan's "John Burnet of Barns"
+centres. The Black Dwarf's grave is at Manor
+Kirk, and the cottage associated with his misanthropic
+career is also pointed out. Scott, in 1797,
+visited Manor (Hallyards) at his friend Ferguson's,
+and foregathered with David Ritchie, the prototype
+of one of the least successful and most tedious
+of his characters. (See William Chambers's account
+of the visit). St. Gordian's Cross, mentioned in
+a previous chapter, is further up the valley, where
+also are the ruins of Posso, a place-name in the
+"Bride of Lammermoor." Presently we come to
+Neidpath Castle, dominating Peebles, the key to the
+Upper Tweed fastnesses. When or by whom it was
+built is unknown. In 1795, it was held by "Old Q,"
+fourth Duke of Queensberry. Wordsworth's sonnet
+on the spoliation of its magnificent woods (an act
+done to spite the heir of entail) stigmatises for all
+time the memory of one of the worst reprobates
+in history.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 16</h5>
+<h3>MELROSE AND THE<br />EILDONS FROM BEMERSYDE<br />HILL: SCOTT'S<br />FAVOURITE VIEW</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_89">89</a>  and <a href="#Page_123">123</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_16" id="Plate_16"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate16.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="MELROSE AND THE EILDONS FROM BEMERSYDE HILL: SCOTT&#39;S FAVOURITE VIEW" title="MELROSE AND THE EILDONS FROM BEMERSYDE HILL: SCOTT&#39;S FAVOURITE VIEW" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Both Scott and Campbell have sung of the
+unhappy Maid of Neidpath spent with grief and
+disease, waiting her lover on the Castle walls, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>
+beholding him ride past all unconscious of her
+identity.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"He came&mdash;he passed&mdash;a heedless gaze,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">As o'er some stranger glancing;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Her welcome, spoke in faltering phrase,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lost in his courser's prancing&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The Castle arch whose hollow tone<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Returns each whisper spoken,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Could scarcely catch the feeble moan<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Which told her heart was broken."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The literary associations of Peebles&mdash;a charming
+township&mdash;are outstanding. William and
+Robert Chambers (founders of <i>Chambers's Journal</i>)
+were natives. So were Thomas Smibert and John
+Veitch, poets and essayists both. Mungo Park (a
+Gideon Gray prototype) was the town's surgeon
+for a time&mdash;an eternal longing for Africa in his
+soul. "Meg Dods," the best landlady in fiction,
+was one of its heroines. And "Peblis to the
+Play," probably by James I., is a Scots classic.
+Traquair is poetic ground every foot of it. At
+its "bonnie bush" how many singers have caught
+inspiration from Crawford of Drumsoy in 1725,
+to Principal Shairp in our own day! Shairp's
+lyric may well be quoted in full. It is by far the
+finest contribution to modern Border minstrelsy.
+"Thank ye again for this exquisite song; I would
+rather have been the man to write it than Gladstone
+in all his greatness and goodness," was the exuberant
+"Rab" Brown's compliment to the author:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Will ye gang wi' me and fare<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To the bush aboon Traquair?<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Owre the high Minchmuir we'll up and awa',<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">This bonny simmer noon,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">While the sun shines fair aboon,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And the licht sklents saftly doun on holm and ha'.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span><br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"And what would you do there,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">At the bush aboon Traquair?<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A lang dreich road, ye had better let it be;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Save some auld skrunts o' birk<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I' the hillside lirk,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">There's nocht i' the warld for man to see.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"But the blithe lilt o' that air,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">'The Bush aboon Traquair,'<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I need nae mair, it's eneuch for me;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Owre my cradle its sweet chime,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Cam' soughin' frae auld time,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sae tide what may, I'll awa' and see.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"And what saw ye there<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">At the bush aboon Traquair?<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Or what did ye hear that was worth your heed?<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I heard the cushies croon<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Thro' the gowden afternoon<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And the Quair burn singing doun to the Vale o' Tweed.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"And birks saw I three or four,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Wi' grey moss bearded owre,&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The last that are left o' the birken shaw,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Whar mony a simmer e'en<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Fond lovers did convene,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Thae bonny, bonny gloamins that are lang awa'.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Frae mony a but and ben,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">By muirland, holm, and glen,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They cam' ane hour to spen' on the greenwood swaird;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But lang hae lad an' lass I<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Been lying 'neth the grass,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The green, green grass o' Traquair kirkyard.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"They were blest beyond compare,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When they held their trysting there,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Among thae greenest hills shone on by the sun;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And then they wan a rest,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The lownest and the best,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I' Traquair kirkyard when a' was dune.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Now the birks to dust may rot,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Names o' lovers be forgot,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nae lads and lasses there ony mair convene;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But the blithe lilt o' yon air<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Keeps the bush aboon Traquair,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And the love that ance was there, aye fresh and green."<br /></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></div></div>
+
+<h5>PLATE 17</h5>
+<h3>DRYBURGH ABBEY AND<br />SCOTT'S TOMB</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_35">35</a> , <a href="#Page_39">39</a> , <a href="#Page_91">91</a> , <a href="#Page_92">92</a> , <a href="#Page_103">103</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 442px;">
+<a name="Plate_17" id="Plate_17"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate17.jpg" width="442" height="600" alt="DRYBURGH ABBEY AND SCOTT&#39;S TOMB" title="DRYBURGH ABBEY AND SCOTT&#39;S TOMB" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Traquair House&mdash;possibly Scott's Tully-Veolan,
+"pallid, forlorn, stricken all o'er with eld," claims
+to be the oldest inhabited house in Scotland. It
+certainly looks it. The great gate, flanked with the
+huge Bradwardine Bears, has not been opened since
+the '45. There seems no reason to question the
+legend. It is not so "foolish" as Mr. Lang supposes.
+Innerleithen, Scott's "St. Ronan's," is near at hand,
+and the peel of Elibank&mdash;a mere shell. Harden's
+marriage to Muckle-mou'ed Meg Murray was not
+quite accounted for in the traditional way, however,&mdash;a
+choice between the laird's dule-tree and the
+laird's unlovely daughter. The legend is not
+uncommon to German folk-lore. At Ashestiel,
+thrice renowned, Scott spent the happiest years
+of his life (1804-1812), writing "Marmion," the
+"Lady of the Lake," and the first draft of
+"Waverley." In many respects the place is
+more important to students of Scott than
+Abbotsford itself. Yet for a thousand who rush
+to Abbotsford only a very few find their way
+up here. Yair, a Pringle house, and Fairnalee,
+comfortable little demesnes, lie further down the
+Tweed. At the latter, Alison Rutherford wrote
+her version of the "Flowers of the Forest"&mdash;"I've
+seen the smiling of Fortune beguiling." Abbotsford
+was Cartley Hole first&mdash;not Clarty&mdash;which is a
+mere vulgar play on the original. From a small
+villa about 1811 it has grown to the present noble
+pile. After Scott's day, Mr. Hope Scott did much
+for the place. But it is of Sir Walter that one
+thinks. What a strenuous life was his here! What
+love he lavished on the very ground that was dear
+to him&mdash;in a double sense! And what longing for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>
+home during that vain sojourn under Italian
+skies! "To Abbotsford; let us to Abbotsford!"&mdash;a
+desire now echoed on ten thousand tongues
+year by year from all ends of the earth.
+Behind Abbotsford are the Eildons, the "Delectable
+Mountains" of Washington Irving's visit,
+"three crests against a saffron sky" always in
+vision the wide Border over. Scott said he could
+stand on the Eildons and point out forty-three
+places famous in war and verse. "Yonder," he
+said, "is Lammermoor and Smailholm; and
+there you have Galashiels, and Torwoodlee, and
+Gala Water; and in that direction you see Teviotdale
+and the Braes of Yarrow, and Ettrick stream winding
+along like a silver thread to throw itself into the
+Tweed. It may be pertinacity, but to my eye
+these grey hills, and all this wild Border Country
+have beauties peculiar to themselves. When I
+have been for some time in the rich scenery about
+Edinburgh which is like ornamented garden land,
+I begin to wish myself back again among my
+own honest grey hills; and if I did not see the
+heather at least once a year, I think I should die."
+Melrose is the "Kennaquhair" of the "Monastery"
+and the "Abbot." Its glory, of course, is its Abbey,
+unsurpassed in the beauty of death, but all grace
+fled from its environment. Were it possible to
+transplant the Abbey together with its rich associations
+to the site of the original foundation by the
+beautiful bend at Bemersyde, Melrose would sit
+enthroned peerless among the shrines of our northern
+land. Within Melrose Abbey, near to the High
+Altar, the Bruce's heart rests well&mdash;its fitful
+flutterings o'er. Here, too, lie the brave Earl<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+Douglas, hero of Chevy Chase; Liddesdale's dark
+Knight&mdash;another Douglas; Evers and Latoun,
+the English commanders at Ancrum Moor, that ran
+so deadly red with the blood of their countrymen;
+and, according to Sir Walter, Michael Scot&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Buried on St. Michael's night,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When the bell toll'd one, and the moon shone bright,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Whose chamber was dug among the dead,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When the floor of the chancel was stained red."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>One is not surprised at Scott's love for Melrose.
+As the grandest ecclesiastical ruin in the country,
+it must be seen to be understood. Mere description
+counts for little in dealing with such a subject.
+Every window, arch, cloister, corbel, keystone,
+door-head and buttress of this excellent example
+of mediæval Gothic is a study in itself&mdash;all elaborately
+carved, yet no two alike. The sculpture
+is unequalled both in symmetry and in variety,
+embracing some of the loveliest specimens of floral
+tracery and the most quaint and grotesque representations
+imaginable. The great east oriel is its
+most imposing feature. But the south doorway
+and the chaste wheeled window above it are equally
+superb. For what is regarded as the finest view
+of the building, let us stand for a little at the north-east
+corner, not far from the grave of Scott's faithful
+factotum, Tom Purdie. Here the <i>coup d'&oelig;il</i> is
+very striking; and the contour of the ruins is realised
+to its full. Or if it be preferred, let us look at the
+pile beneath the lee light o' the moon&mdash;the
+conditions recommended in the "Lay."</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"If thou would'st view fair Melrose aright,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Go visit it by the pale moonlight;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For the gay beams of lightsome day<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Gild, but to flout, the ruins grey.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span><br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When the broken arches are black in night,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And each shafted oriel glimmers white,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When the cold light's uncertain shower<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Streams on the ruined central tower;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When buttress and buttress, alternately,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Seem framed of ebon and ivory;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When silver edges the imagery,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And the scrolls that teach thee to live and die;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When distant Tweed is heard to rave,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Then go&mdash;but go alone the while&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Then view St. David's ruined pile;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And, home returning, soothly swear<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Was never scene so sad and fair!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Three inscriptions&mdash;one inside, two in the churchyard,
+are worth halting by. "<span class="smcap">Heir lyis the Race
+of ye Hovs of Zair</span>," touches many hearts with
+its simple pathos. "The Lord is my Light," is
+the expressive text (self-chosen) on Sir David
+Brewster's tomb&mdash;the greatest master of optics in
+his day; and the third, covering the remains of
+a former Melrose schoolmaster was frequently
+on the lips of Scott:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"The earth goeth on the earth,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Glist'ring like gold,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The earth goes to the earth<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sooner than it wold.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The earth builds on the earth<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Castles and towers,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The earth says to the earth<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">All shall be ours."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>If half the grace of Melrose is lost by reason
+of its environment, the situation of Dryburgh is
+queenly enough. It is assuredly the most picturesque
+monastic ruin in Great Britain. Scott's is
+the all-absorbing name, and as a matter of fact he
+would himself have become by inheritance the
+laird of Dryburgh, but for the financial folly of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>
+spendthrift grand-uncle. "The ancient patrimony,"
+he tells us, "was sold for a trifle, and my
+father, who might have purchased it with ease,
+was dissuaded by my grandfather from doing so,
+and thus we have nothing left of Dryburgh but
+the right of stretching our bones there." So here,
+the two Sir Walters, the two Lady Scotts,
+and Lockhart, await the breaking light of morn.
+Dryburgh, be it noted, is in Berwickshire&mdash;in
+Mertoun parish, where (at Mertoun House) Scott
+wrote the "Eve of St. John." Not far off is
+Sandyknowe (not Smailholm, as it is generally
+designated) Tower, the scene of the ballad, and the
+cradle of Scott's childhood, where there awoke
+within him the first real consciousness of life, and
+where he had his first impressions of the wondrously
+enchanted land that lay within the comparatively
+small circle of the Border Country. Ruined Roxburgh,
+between Tweed's and Teviot's flow, and the
+palatial Floors Castle represent the best of epochs
+old and new, and even more than in Scott's halcyon
+school days is Kelso the "Queen of the South
+Countrie." Coldstream, lying in sylvan loveliness
+on the left bank of the Tweed&mdash;a noble river here&mdash;has
+been the scene of many a memorable crossing
+from both countries from the time of Edward I.
+to the Covenanting struggle. So near the Border,
+Coldstream had at one time a considerable notoriety
+for its runaway marriages, the most notable of
+which was Lord Brougham's in 1819. Within an
+easy radius of Coldstream are Wark Castle, the
+mere site of it rather&mdash;where in 1344 Edward III.
+instituted the Order of the Garter; Twizel Bridge,
+with its single Gothic arch, cleverly crossed by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+Surrey and his men (it is the identical arch) at
+Flodden, that darkest of all dark fields for Scotland,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Where shivered was fair Scotland's spear,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And broken was her shield."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Of Norham Castle, frowning like Carlisle, to the
+North, and set down as it were to over-awe a
+kingdom, Scott's description is always the best.
+Ladykirk Church was built by James IV. in gratitude
+for his escape from drowning while fording the Tweed.
+Last of all, we reach Berwick, at one period the
+chief seaport in Scotland&mdash;a "second Alexandria,"
+as was said, now the veriest shadow of its former
+self. Christianized towards the close of the fourth
+century, according to Bede, as a place rich in
+churches, monasteries and hospitals, Berwick held
+high rank in the ecclesiastical world. Its geographical
+position, too, as a frontier town made
+it the Strasburg for which contending armies were
+continually in conflict. Century after century its
+history was one red record of strife and bloodshed.
+Its walls, like its old Bridge spanning the Tweed,
+were built in Elizabeth's reign, and its Royal
+Border Bridge, opened to traffic in 1850, was
+happily characterised by Robert Stephenson, its
+builder, as the "last act of the Union."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 18</h5>
+<h3>THE REMNANT OF<br />WARK CASTLE</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_39">39</a>  and <a href="#Page_92">92</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_18" id="Plate_18"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate18.jpg" width="600" height="475" alt="THE REMNANT OF WARK CASTLE" title="THE REMNANT OF WARK CASTLE" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="IV_PLEASANT_TEVIOTDALE" id="IV_PLEASANT_TEVIOTDALE"></a>IV. "PLEASANT TEVIOTDALE"</h2>
+
+<p>Ettrick and Yarrow between them comprise
+most of Selkirkshire. The Teviot and Jed
+are the main arteries running through Roxburghshire,
+or Teviotdale, as was the ancient
+designation, colloquially Tividale and Tibbiedale.
+On the source-to-mouth principle&mdash;the most natural
+and the most instructive&mdash;the best approach into
+Teviotdale is by way of Langholm, locally <i>the</i>
+Langholm, pleasantly situated on the Dumfriesshire
+Esk, at the junction of the Ewes and Wauchope
+Waters. In the fine pastoral valley of the Ewes&mdash;the
+Yarrow of Dumfriesshire&mdash;we pass several
+places of note before striking Teviothead and the
+main course of the Teviot. At Wrae, William Knox,
+author of "The Lonely Hearth," and writer of
+the stanzas on "Mortality," so constantly quoted
+by Abraham Lincoln, had his home for a time.
+George Gilfillan, no mean judge, characterises him
+as the best sacred poet in Scotland. Further on is
+the birth-spot of another well-known singer, Henry
+Scott Riddell, whose patriotic "Scotland Yet"
+has won its way to the ends of the earth, wherever
+Scotsmen gather. At Unthank Kirkyard&mdash;none
+more lonely save St. Mary's on Yarrow, perhaps&mdash;we
+examine the graves of the hospitable and kindly
+Elliots of "Dandie Dinmont" immortality. Mosspaul
+Inn, lately restored, is close to the boundary
+between the two counties. From the Wisp Hill
+(1950 feet) the view on a clear day from Carlisle
+in the south to the distant north, is one to be
+remembered. The Wordsworths were at Mosspaul
+in 1803, and Dorothy's description is still fairly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>
+correct: "The scene with its single dwelling, was
+melancholy and wild, but not dreary, though there
+was no tree nor shrub; the small streamlet
+glittered, the hills were populous with sheep; but
+the gentle bending of the valley and the correspondent
+softness in the forms of the hills were
+of themselves enough to delight the eye. The
+whole of the Teviot and the pastoral steeps about
+Mosspaul pleased us exceedingly."</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 19</h5>
+<h3>BERWICK-ON-TWEED</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_43">43</a> , <a href="#Page_49">49</a> , <a href="#Page_63">63</a> , <a href="#Page_93">93</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_19" id="Plate_19"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate19.jpg" width="600" height="394" alt="BERWICK-ON-TWEED" title="BERWICK-ON-TWEED" />
+</div>
+
+<p>At Teviothead we touch the Teviot proper.
+The upper basin of the Teviot is mainly a barren
+vale, flanked by lofty rounded hills. For a greater
+distance it is a strip of alluvial plain, screened by
+terraced banks clad with the rankest vegetation,
+and with long stretches of undulating dale-land,
+and overhung at from three to eight miles by terminating
+heights, and in its lower reaches it is a richly
+variegated champaign country, possessing all the
+luxuriance without any of the tameness of a fertile
+plain, and stretching away in resulting loveliness
+to the picturesque Eildons on the one hand and
+the dome-like Cheviots on the other. Teviothead,
+formerly Carlanrigg, is full of traditionary lore.
+Teviot Stone, extinct now, a landmark for centuries&mdash;its
+position being marked on some of our earliest
+maps&mdash;recalls Scott's favourite lines from the
+"Lay," imprinted on the Selkirk monument:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"By Yarrow's streams, still let me stray,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Though none should guide my feeble way;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Still feel the breeze down Ettrick break,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Although it chill my withered cheek;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Still lay my head by Teviot Stone,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Though there, forgotten and alone,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The Bard may draw his parting groan."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Teviothead Churchyard contains the graves of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>
+Johnie Armstrong of Gilnockie, and his gallants.
+James V. (a mere boy-king at the time) never
+planned a more despicable or more atrocious deed
+than the betrayal and summary execution of this
+most picturesque of the freebooters. And posterity
+has never forgiven him. Nor can it. Scott's
+"Minstrelsy" ballad commemorating the incident
+is far and away the most dramatic of its kind,
+Johnie's scathing answer to the King being specially
+characteristic:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"To seik het water beneith cauld ice,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Surely it is a greit follie;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I have asked grace at a graceless face,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But there is nane for my men and me!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>There is a tradition that the trees on which they
+were hanged became immediately blasted; and
+Scott, in parting with the Wordsworths directed
+them to look about for "some old stumps of
+trees," but "we could not find them," adds Miss
+Wordsworth. Hard by are the graves of Scott
+Riddell and his third son, William, a youth of
+remarkable promise. Teviothead Cottage, where
+Riddell resided till his death in 1870, is passed on
+the left. The church in which he preached (he was
+in charge of the then preaching station here) is
+now the parish school, and his monument, like a
+huge candle extinguisher, crowns the neighbouring
+Dryden Knowes. Still keeping to the Teviot, now
+a fair-sized stream, rich in the variety and beauty
+of its scenery&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Pleasant Teviotdale, a land<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Made blithe by plough and harrow"&mdash;<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>we pass Gledsnest and Colterscleuch, figuring in the
+well-known "Jamie Telfer" ballad; Commonside,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>
+mentioned in "Kinmont Willie"; Northhouse,
+Teindside, Harwood, and Broadhaugh, snug farms
+all, till the hamlet of Newmill is reached, the quarrel
+scene between the "jovial harper" of the "Lay"
+and "Sweet Milk," "Bard of Reull," in which the
+latter was slain:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"On Teviot's side, in fight they stood,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And tuneful hands were stained with blood,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where still the thorn's white branches wave<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Memorial o'er his rival's grave."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Allan Cunningham's version of "Rattlin', Roarin'
+Willie" should be read in this connection. Branxholme
+(poetically Branksome) is a particularly
+interesting portion of the Teviot valley. Its Braes
+recall the old ditty:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"As I came in by Teviot side<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And by the Braes of Branksome,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">There first I saw my bonnie bride,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Young, smiling, sweet, and handsome."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And looming up before us is the massive white
+pile of Branxholme itself, the master-fort of the
+Teviot, and the key of the pass between the Tweed
+basin and Merrie Carlisle. The Castle occupies
+a strong position, has been much modernised, and
+is now a residence for Buccleuch's Chamberlain.
+Up to 1756, it was the chief seat of the Buccleuch
+family. Branxholme's main glory, however, is
+not its past history, or the pomp and circumstance
+surrounding it in the hey-day of its power. If
+there was "another Yarrow" to Wordsworth,
+there is "another Branxholme" to us. It is not
+the memory of the fighting barons of Buccleuch,
+with their tumultuous raids and unending quarrels,
+which draws the pilgrim's feet to Branxholme's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>
+Tower, but the memory of events which the imagination
+of the Minstrel has conjured up, and which
+have made for themselves a local habitation and a
+name. For here Scott placed the leading incidents
+of the "Lay,"&mdash;the first and finest of his Border
+efforts:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Nine-and-twenty knights of fame<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Hung their shields in Branksome Hall,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nine-and-twenty squires of name<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Brought them their steeds to bower from stall."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>From Branxholme to the russet-grey Peel of Goldielands
+is scarcely two miles. Minus gables or parapet
+now, and standing among the haystacks and
+buildings of a farm, it is still in tolerable preservation.
+Here dwelt amongst others of its old heroes,
+"the Laird's Wat, that worthie man," who led the
+Scots at the Reidswire in 1575. Not improbably
+is Goldielands the peel associated with Willie of
+Westburnflat's operations in the "Black Dwarf."
+At Goldielands Gate one gets a fine view to the right
+of the Borthwick valley,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Where Bortha hoarse that loads the meads with sand,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Rolls her red tide to Teviot's western stand."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And up the Borthwick, a mile or two, on its steep
+bank sits Harden, a place of more than ordinary
+note to the Scott student. Here Auld Wat, Sir
+Walter's grandsire seven times removed, reigned a
+king among Border reivers, whose deeds of derring-do
+have been long shrined by the balladists, and
+graven deep on the tablets of memory. Hawick,
+the Glasgow of the Borders, comes next in sight,&mdash;where
+Slitrig and Teviot meet. An ancient town,
+but possessing few relics of antiquity, except St.
+Mary's Church, and the Tower Inn, a dwelling of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>
+the Drumlanrig Douglases, with the mysterious
+Moat "where Druid shades still flitted round."
+The modernity of the place is, however, lost sight
+of annually in the "riding of the marches," a
+custom which prevails also in Selkirk and Langholm.
+It is the great public festival of the year, and dates
+from time immemorial. Its memories are mostly
+of Flodden, and the brave stand at Hornshole
+in the neighbourhood, the year after. The Flodden
+flag, splendidly "bussed," is carried in civic and
+cornetal procession with crowds continually singing&mdash;as
+only Teridom can&mdash;the rousing martial air
+of "Teribus," the Hawick slogan, which expresses
+more than any other the wild and defiant strain
+of the war-trump and the battle-shout. Hawick,
+including Wilton, has several elegantly architectured
+buildings, over a score of Tweed mills
+and factories, seventeen churches, and boasts a
+population of nearly twenty thousand.</p>
+
+<p>From Hawick to Kelso the distance is 21 miles,
+with a finely undulating road all through. The
+railway journey <i>via</i> St. Boswells is about double
+the distance. Our way lies through some of the
+most storied scenery in the Lowlands. The names
+on the map will give us an idea of the exceedingly
+romantic character of this second half of the Teviot.
+Here we come into touch with such song-haunted
+tributaries as the Jed and Oxnam, the Rule and
+Kale, and Ale, and with many of the great houses
+whose history has contributed more than any other
+to the making of the Border Country. The names
+of Scott and Ker, Elliot and Douglas, Turnbull and
+Riddell are patent to every parish through which
+we pass. At Minto, the home of the Elliots and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>
+seat of the present Indian Viceroy, one is reminded
+of the distinguished place which that family has
+held both in the stormy and in the more peaceful
+times of Border story. Here Jean Elliot wrote the
+"Flowers of the Forest," and Thomas Campbell
+his "Lochiel's Warning." From Minto Crags,
+crowned with Fatlips Castle and Barnhill's Bed,
+(729 feet) there is no more pleasing prospect in the
+Borderland. The windings of the Teviot are traceable
+for miles, the Liddesdale and Dumfriesshire
+heights hemming in the view on one side, and the
+blue Cheviots on the other. Ruberslaw rises
+immediately in front, with Denholm Dene on the
+right, and the narrow bed of the "mining Rule"
+on the left, while behind to the north are distinctly
+seen the three-coned Eildons, Earlston Black Hill,
+Scott's Sandyknowe, Hume Castle, and the wavy
+line of the Lammermoors. Hassendean (suggesting
+"Jock o' Hazeldean") Cavers, a Douglas house,
+where the pennon of the great Earl, and the Percy
+gauntlets are still shown; Denholm, Leyden's
+birthplace, Henlawshiel and Kirkton, scenes in
+his boyhood, lie all in the neighbourhood. Dr.
+Chalmers was for a time assistant in Cavers
+Kirk, and in later life delighted to recall his connection
+with the Border district. Adjoining Minto,
+Ancrum stands bonnie on Ale Water&mdash;a village
+of considerable antiquity. Its Cross, dating from
+David I.'s time, is one of the best-preserved of the
+market-crosses of the Border. Ancrum was the
+birthplace of Dr. William Buchan of "Domestic
+Medicine" celebrity, and John Livingston, its
+minister during the Covenant, was a man of mark
+and piety in his day. The place naturally suggests<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>
+Ancrum Moor, a mile or two to the north-west, one
+of the last great battlefields of the international
+struggle. In February, 1544, an English army under
+Sir Ralph Evers and Sir Brian Latoun desolated the
+Scottish frontier as far north as Melrose, defacing
+the Douglas tombs in the abbey. On returning
+with their booty towards Jedburgh, they were
+overtaken at Ancrum Moor, and severely beaten
+by a Scottish force led by the Earl of Angus and
+Scott of Buccleuch. In this battle, according to
+tradition, fought Maiden Lilliard, a brave Scotswoman
+from Maxton, who fell beneath many wounds
+and was buried on the spot. Her grave, in the midst
+of a thick fir-wood, carries the somewhat doggerel
+epitaph:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Fair Maiden Lilliard<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lies under this stane;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Little was her stature,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But muckle was her fame<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Upon the English loons<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She laid monie thumps,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">An' when her legs were cuttit off,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She fought upon her stumps."<a name="FNanchor_A_3" id="FNanchor_A_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_3" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_3" id="Footnote_A_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_3"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> An attempt has been made to discredit this story by
+an appeal to the antiquity of the place-name, which is
+admittedly much earlier than Lilliard's day. This, however,
+does not dispose of the tradition. The likelihood is that
+originally the first line was really "the Fair Maid <i>of</i>
+Lilliard."</p></div>
+
+<p>The monument has been frequently restored.
+Lady John Scott made the last repairing touches,
+adding the words:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"To <span class="smcap">a' true scotsmen</span>.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">By me it's been mendit,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To your care I commend it."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<h5>PLATE 20</h5>
+<h3>HOLLOWS TOWER<br />(SOMETIMES CALLED<br />GILNOCKIE TOWER)</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_72">72</a>  and <a href="#Page_96">96</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_20" id="Plate_20"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate20.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="HOLLOWS TOWER (SOMETIMES CALLED GILNOCKIE TOWER)" title="HOLLOWS TOWER (SOMETIMES CALLED GILNOCKIE TOWER)" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The Jed, joining the Teviot close to Jedfoot
+Station, reminds us that the county town of Rox<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>burgh&mdash;Jedburgh&mdash;is
+within easy access, and the
+fascinating valley of the Jed which Burns so vigorously
+extolled. The Jed takes its rise between
+Needslaw and Carlintooth on the Liddesdale Border.
+Its general course is east and north, and its length
+about seventeen miles. The places of chief interest
+on its banks are Southdean, where the Scottish
+chiefs assembled previous to Otterburn, and where
+the poet Thomson spent his boyhood; Old Jedworth,
+the original township, a few grassy mounds marking
+the spot; Ferniherst Castle, a Ker stronghold;
+Lintalee, the site of a Douglas camp described in
+Barbour's "Bruce;" the Capon Tree, a thousand
+years old, one of the last survivors of "Jedworth's
+forest wild and free;" and the Hundalee hiding
+caves. The charm of Jedburgh consists in its
+old-world character and its semi-Continental touches.
+Its fine situation early attracted the notice of the
+Scottish Kings, though Bishop Ecfred of Lindisfarne
+is believed to have been its true founder.
+He could not have chosen a more sweet or appropriate
+nook for his little settlement. Nestling in
+the quiet valley, and creeping up the ridge of the
+Dunion, the song of the river ever in its ears, freshened
+by the scent of garden and orchard, and
+surrounded by finely-wooded heights, Nature has
+been lavish in filling with new adornments, as years
+sped by, a spot always bright and fair.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"O softly Jed! thy sylvan current lead<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Round every hazel copse and smiling mead,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where lines of firs the glowing landscape screen,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And crown the heights with tufts of deeper green."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The modern beauty of the place notwithstanding,
+Jedburgh's history has been a singularly troubled one.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>
+As a frontier town and the first place of importance
+north of the Cheviots, it was naturally a scene of
+strife and bloodshed. Around it lay the famous
+Jed Forest, rivalling that of Ettrick. The inhabitants
+were brave warriors, and noted for the skill
+with which they wielded the Jeddart staff or Jedwood
+axe. Their presence at the Reidswire decided
+that skirmish in favour of the Scottish Borderers:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Then rose the slogan wi' ane shout,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Fye, Tynedale, to it! Jeddart's here."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>And at Flodden the men from the glens of the
+Jed were conspicuous for their heroism. Jedburgh
+Abbey is the chief "lion" of the locality. Completer
+than Kelso and Dryburgh, and simpler and
+more harmonious than Melrose, it stands in the most
+delightful of situations, girt about with well-kept
+gardens, overlooking the bosky banks of the Jed&mdash;a
+veritable poem in Nature and Art. Queen
+Mary's House (restored) the scene of her all but
+mortal illness in 1566 is still existing, and well
+worth a visit. The literary associations of the burgh
+are more than local. James Thomson was a pupil
+at its Grammar School. Burns was made a burgess
+during his Border tour in 1787. Scott made his
+first appearance as a criminal counsel at Jedburgh,
+pleading successfully for his poacher client. The
+Wordsworths visited Jedburgh in 1803. Sir David
+Brewster and Mary Somerville were natives, and here
+the "Scottish Probationer" lived and died. Samuel
+Rutherford was born at Crailing, the next parish,
+where also David Calderwood, the Kirk historian, was
+minister. Cessford Castle, in Eckford parish, was the
+residence of the redoubtable "Habbie Ker," ancestor
+of the Dukes of Roxburghe. Marlefield, "where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>
+Kale wimples clear 'neath the white-blossomed
+slaes," is a supposed scene (erroneous) of the "Gentle
+Shepherd." Yetholm, on the Bowmont, near the
+Great Cheviot, has been the headquarters of Scottish
+gypsydom since the 17th century. Opposite Floors
+Castle, at the confluence of the Tweed and Teviot
+is the green tree-clad mound with a few crumbling
+walls, all that remains of the illustrious Castle of
+Roxburgh, one of the strongest on the Borders,
+the birthplace and abode of kings, and parliaments,
+and mints, and so often a bone of bitter contention
+between Scots and English. The town itself, the
+most important on the Middle Marches, has entirely
+disappeared, its site and environs forming now some
+of the most fertile fields in the county:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Roxburgh! how fallen, since first, in Gothic pride,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Thy frowning battlements the war defied,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Called the bold chief to grace thy blazoned halls,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And bade the rivers gird thy solid walls!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Fallen are thy towers; and where the palace stood,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">In gloomy grandeur waves yon hanging wood.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Crushed are thy halls, save where the peasant sees<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">One moss-clad ruin rise between the trees;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The still green trees, whose mournful branches wave<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">In solemn cadence o'er the hapless grave.<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Proud castle! fancy still beholds thee stand,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The curb, the guardian, of this Border land;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">As when the signal flame that blazed afar,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And bloody flag, proclaimed impending war,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">While in the lion's place the leopard frowned,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And marshalled armies hemmed thy bulwarks round."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<h5>PLATE 21</h5>
+<h3>GOLDILANDS NEAR<br />HAWICK</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_98">98</a> , <a href="#Page_99">99</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_21" id="Plate_21"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate21.jpg" width="600" height="432" alt="GOLDILANDS NEAR HAWICK" title="GOLDILANDS NEAR HAWICK" />
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h2><a name="V_IN_THE_BALLAD_COUNTRY" id="V_IN_THE_BALLAD_COUNTRY"></a>V. IN THE BALLAD COUNTRY</h2>
+
+<p>To a shepherd in Canada Dr. Norman Macleod
+is said to have remarked, "What a glorious
+country this is!" "Ay," said the man,
+"it is a very good country." "And such majestic
+rivers!" "Oh, ay," was all the reply. "And
+such good forests!" "Ay, but there are nae
+linties in the woods, and nae braes like Yarrow!"
+Of course, the answer was from a purely exile
+point of view, but even to those of the Old Country
+the name of Yarrow wields the most wondrous
+fascination. Like Tweed, Yarrow is known everywhere,
+for who has not heard of its "Dowie Dens,"
+or of its lovers' tragedies? Certainly no stream
+has been more besung. The name is redolent of
+all that is most pathetic in Border poetry. This
+is the centre of the Border ballad country&mdash;the
+birthplace, or, at all events, the nursing-ground
+of a romance than which there is none richer or
+more extensive on either side of the Border. The
+Yarrow is the Scottish Rhine-land on a small scale,
+even more so than the Tweed. Tweedside, indeed,
+has not a tithe of Yarrow's ballad wealth, and the
+Tweed ballads and folk-lore are absolutely different
+in respect both of subject-matter and of manner.
+The curious feature about Yarrow is the wonderful
+sameness which characterises the whole of its
+minstrelsy. For hundreds of years that has been
+so. Sadness is the uppermost note that is sounded.
+All through we are face to face with a feeling of
+dejection as remarkable as it is common. One could
+have understood a stray effusion or so couched
+in this strain, but for an entire minstrelsy to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>
+breathe such a spirit is extraordinary. Why should
+Yarrow be the personification, as it were, of a
+grief and a melancholy that nothing seems able to
+assuage? Is there anything in the scenery to
+account for it&mdash;anything in the physical conditions
+of the glen itself that solves the secret? There is,
+and there isn't. To a mere outsider&mdash;a mere
+summer tripper hurrying through&mdash;Yarrow is little
+different from others of the southland valleys.
+Its main features are identical with those of the
+Ettrick, and the Tweed uplands, or with the Ewes
+and the Teviot. All of them exhibit the same pastoral
+stillness. The same play of light and shade are on
+their hills. The same soothing spirit broods over
+them. But of Yarrow alone it is the element
+of sadness that prevails. To understand this, one
+has to <i>live</i> in Yarrow&mdash;to come under the influence
+of its environment. And whether it be fancy or
+not, whether it be the result of one's reading,
+and of one's pre-conceived notions of the place,
+the Yarrow landscape does lend itself to the realisation
+of that feeling which the ballads so well portray.
+The configuration of the glen as seen especially
+from a little above Yarrow Manse&mdash;the "Dowie
+Dens" of popular tradition&mdash;together with its
+climatic conditions, may very easily interpret
+for us the spirit of those old singers. Here, if
+anywhere in the valley, the answer to the Yarrow
+enigma will be found. Professor Veitch thinks
+that the whole district affords such an answer:
+"Nor will anyone," he says, "who is familiar with
+the Vale of Yarrow have had much difficulty in
+understanding how it is suited to pathetic verse.
+The rough and broken, yet clear, beautiful, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>
+wide-spreading stream has no grand cliffs to show;
+and it is not surrounded by high and overshadowing
+hills. Here and there it flows placidly, reflectively,
+in large liquid lapses, through an open valley of
+the deepest summer green; still, let us be thankful,
+in its upper reaches at least, mantled by nature
+and untouched by plough and harrow. There is
+a placid monotone about its bare treeless scenery&mdash;an
+unbroken pastoral stillness on the sloping
+braes and hillsides, as they rise, fall, and bend in
+a uniformly deep colouring. The silence of the
+place is forced upon the attention, deepened even
+by the occasional break in the flow of the stream,
+or by the bleating of the sheep that, white and
+motionless amid the pasture, dot the knowes.
+We are attracted by the silence, and we are also
+depressed. There is the pleasure of hushed
+enjoyment. The spirit of the scene is in those
+immortal lines:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Meek loveliness is round thee spread<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A softness still and holy;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The grace of Forest charms decayed<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And pastoral melancholy."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Those deep green grassy knowes of the valley are
+peculiarly susceptible of change. In the morning
+with a blue sky, or with breaks of sunlight through
+the fleeting clouds, the green hillsides and the
+stream smile and gleam in sympathy with the
+cheerfulness of heaven. But under a grey sky, or
+at the gloaming, the Yarrow wears a peculiarly
+wan aspect&mdash;a look of sadness. And no valley I
+know is more susceptible of sudden change. The
+spirit of the air can speedily weave out of the mists
+that gather upon the massive hills at the heads of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>
+the Megget and the Talla, a wide-spreading web of
+greyish cloud&mdash;the 'skaum' of the sky&mdash;that casts
+a gloom over the under green of the hills; and
+dims the face of loch and stream in a pensive
+shadow. The saddened heart would readily find
+there fit analogue and nourishment for its sorrow.
+Which is all very true. But, as has been said,
+Tweed and Teviot show exactly these conditions,
+and what of their minstrelsy remains is not touched
+with this strangely morose sense. May not the solution
+lie in the very legend of the "Dowie Dens"
+itself, and in the remarkable cup-like configuration
+of the valley as seen from the point already indicated
+and under the wan aspects which are admittedly
+a distinctive feature of the Yarrow at all seasons of
+the year? Out of this have emerged very probably
+the spirit of the balladists and their ballads.
+One after another have simply followed suit, and
+the likelihood is that had gladness and not gloom
+been the burden of some far back strain, we should
+not have had the Yarrow we possess to-day.
+Men of the most diverse temperaments have come
+under the sad spell of the Yarrow. The most
+lighthearted sons of song have succumbed to the
+general feeling. Wordsworth himself would have
+preferred to strike another note, but the enchantment
+of the spot held him fast:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"O that some Minstrel's harp were near<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To utter notes of gladness,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And chase this silence from the air,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That fills my heart with sadness!"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>All the verse writers of the last century were mere
+continuators of their fellow-bards centuries before.
+There are, to be sure, some flippant spirits who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>
+would dare to alter the very atmosphere of Yarrow,
+but what a poor attempt at the impossible! Yarrow
+must ever abide the embodiment of the most
+heart-piercing, and at the same time, the most
+winsome melody the world has listened to.</p>
+
+<p>Popularly speaking, the best of the Yarrow
+ballads concerns itself with the famous "Dowie
+Dens" tragedy, of which there seems to be some
+authentic reference in the Selkirk Presbytery
+Record for 1616. It is there narrated how Walter
+Scott of Tushielaw made "an informal and inordinate
+marriage with Grizell Scott of Thirlestane
+without consent of her father." Just three months
+later, the same Record contains entry of a summons
+to Simeon Scott, of Bonytoun, an adherent of
+Thirlestane, and three other Scotts "to compear at
+Melrose to hear themselves excommunicated for the
+horrible slaughter of Walter Scott." We have here
+probably the precise incident on which the unknown
+"makar" founded his crude but intensely picturesque
+and dramatic lay. How much of womanly
+winsomeness and heroism, of knightly dignity and
+daring, and the unconquerable strength of love are
+portrayed in the following stanzas! There are,
+indeed, few ballads in any language that match
+its strains:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"She kiss'd his cheek, she kaim'd his hair,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">As oft she had done before, O;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She belted him with his noble brand,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And he's away to Yarrow.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"'If I see all, ye're nine to ane;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And that's an unequal marrow;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Yet will I fight, while lasts my brand,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On the bonnie banks of Yarrow.'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span><br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Four has he hurt, and five has slain;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On the bloody braes of Yarrow,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Till that stubborn knight came him behind,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And ran his body thorough.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Yestreen I dream'd a dolefu' dream;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I fear there will be sorrow!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I dream'd I pu'd the heather green<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Wi' my true love on Yarrow.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;*&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"She kiss'd his cheek, she kaimed his hair;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She search'd his wounds all thorough;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She kiss'd them till her lips grew red,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On the dowie houms of Yarrow."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>A fragment of rare beauty, believed to be based
+on the same incident (unlikely however) was one
+of Scott's special favourites. Rather does it
+shrine a similar tragedy, one of many such which
+must have been common enough in those troubled
+and lawless times. How melting is the pathos
+of the following verses, for instance!</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Willie's rare and Willie's fair,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And Willie's wondrous bonny,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And Willie's hecht to marry me,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Gin e'er he married ony.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Yestreen I made my bed fu' braid,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">This night I'll make it narrow,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For a' the livelong winter night,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I'll lie twin'd of my marrow.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">She sought him east, she sought him west,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She sought him braid and narrow;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Syne, in the cleaving of a craig<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She found him drown'd in Yarrow.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Somewhat akin is the "Lament of the Border
+Widow," located at Henderland, in Meggetdale,
+not far from St. Mary's Loch. In the preface to
+this ballad in the "Minstrelsy," Scott states that
+it was "obtained from recitation in the Forest of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>
+Ettrick, and is said to relate to the execution of
+Cockburn of Henderland, a Border freebooter,
+hanged over the gate of his own tower by James V.
+in the course of that memorable expedition in 1529
+which was fatal to Johnie Armstrong, Adam Scott
+of Tushielaw, and many other marauders." The
+grave of "Perys of Cockburne and hys wyfe Marjory"
+on a wooded knoll at Henderland, is still pointed out.
+But the historicity of the ballad has been questioned
+from the statement (which seems to be correct)
+that Cockburn was actually executed at Edinburgh,
+instead of at his own home. There is no evidence,
+however, to assume that the ballad commemorates
+this particular occurrence or that it has any connection
+with the grave referred to. For genuine
+balladic merit it will be difficult to match:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">My love he built me a bonny bower,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And clad it a' wi' lilye flower,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A brawer bower ye ne'er did see<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Than my true love he built for me.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">There came a man, by middle day<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">He spied his sport, and went away,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And brought the King that very night,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Who brake my bower and slew my knight.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">He slew my knight, to me sae dear;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">He slew my knight, and poin'd his gear;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">My servants all for life did flee,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And left me in extremitie.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">I sewed his sheet, making my mane;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I watched the corpse myself alane;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I watch'd his body night and day;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">No living creature came that way.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">I took his body on my back,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And whiles I gaed, and whiles I sat;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I digg'd a grave, and laid him in,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And happ'd him with the sod sae green.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span><br /></span>
+<span class="i0">But think na ye my heart was sair,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When I laid the moul' on his yellow hair;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">O think na ye my heart was wae,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When I turned about away to gae?<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Nae living man I'll love again,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Since that my lovely knight is slain,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Wi ae lock of his yellow hair,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I'll chain my heart for evermair.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<h5>PLATE 22</h5>
+<h3>"HE PASS'D WHERE<br />NEWARK'S STATELY<br />TOWER LOOKS OUT<br />FROM YARROW'S<br />BIRCHEN BOWER"</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<p class="center">
+(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_116">116</a> </i>)<br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_22" id="Plate_22"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate22.jpg" width="600" height="432" alt="&quot;HE PASS&#39;D WHERE NEWARK&#39;S STATELY TOWER LOOKS OUT FROM YARROW&#39;S BIRCHEN BOWER&quot;"
+title="&quot;HE PASS&#39;D WHERE NEWARK&#39;S STATELY TOWER LOOKS OUT FROM YARROW&#39;S BIRCHEN BOWER&quot;" />
+</div>
+
+<p>One might speak, too, of the "Douglas Tragedy,"
+the scene of which is laid in the Douglas Glen, in the
+heart of the quiet hills forming the watershed betwixt
+Tweed and Yarrow. Here lived the "Good Sir
+James"&mdash;Bruce's right-hand man, who strove to
+carry his heart to the Holy Land. It was from this
+Tower at Blackhouse that Margaret the Fair was
+carried off by her lover, and about a mile further up
+on the hillside the seven stones marking the spot
+where Lord William alighted and slew the Lady's
+seven brothers in full pursuit of the pair, are objects
+of curious interest. This ballad, it is interesting
+to note, is one widely diffused throughout Europe,
+being specially rich in Danish, Icelandic, Norse, and
+Swedish collections. Indeed, almost all the Yarrow
+ballads&mdash;and many others&mdash;are common to Continental
+<i>volks-lieder</i>, and are found in extraordinary
+profusion from Iceland to the Peloponesus. Here
+is evidence, by no means slight, of the theory that
+ballads originate from a common stock, and that
+in the course of ages they have simply become
+transplanted and localized. Then the Yarrow
+valley contains the scene of the "Song of the
+Outlaw Murray"&mdash;a distinctively Border production
+(74 verses in all) composed during the reign of
+James V. Murray divides with Johnie Armstrong
+the honour of being the Border Robin Hood,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>
+but to Murray a very different treatment was
+meted out. The Outlaw's lands at Hangingshaw
+and elsewhere were his own, though he held them
+minus a title. James fumed at this, and determined
+to bring the Forest chief to submission:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"The King of Scotland sent me here,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And, gude Outlaw, I am sent to thee;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I wad wot of how ye hald your lands,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">O man, wha may thy master be?"<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Thir lands are <span class="smcap">MINE</span>! the Outlaw said:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I ken nae King in Christendie;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Frae England I this Forest won<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">When the King and his knights were not to see."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Upon which the King's Commissioner assures the
+Outlaw that it will be worse for him if he fails to
+give heed to the royal desire:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Gif ye refuse to do this<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">He'll compass baith thy lands and thee;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">He hath vow'd to cast thy castle down<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And mak a widow of thy gay lady."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>But Murray is defiant, and James is equally resolved
+to crush him. Friends are pressed into the Outlaw's
+service, and very soon he has a goodly number
+of troopers all ready to render service in the hour
+of their kinsman's need, well knowing that in aiding
+him they would be doing the best thing for themselves,
+as "landless men they a' wad be" if the
+King got his own way in Ettrick Forest. But,
+like all good ballads, this, too, ends happily. A
+compromise is effected, by which the Outlaw
+obtains the post he had long coveted&mdash;Sheriff
+of the Forest:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"He was made Sheriff of Ettrick Forest,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Surely while upward grows the tree;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And if he was na traitour to the King,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Forfaulted he should never be.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span><br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Wha ever heard, in ony times,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Siccan an Outlaw in his degree<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sic favour get before a King<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">As the Outlaw Murray of the Forest free?"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Of right "Tamlany"&mdash;by far the finest of the
+Border fairy ballads&mdash;belongs more to Ettrick than
+to Yarrow. The scene is laid in Carterhaugh, at
+the confluence of the two streams, two miles
+above Selkirk. The ballad (24 stanzas) is too long
+to quote, but may be read in all good collections.
+For the same reason also we must pass over the
+"Battle of Philiphaugh," commemorating Leslie's
+victory over Montrose in 1645; and the "Gay
+Goss-Hawk," the dramatic ending of which is laid
+at St. Mary's Kirk, high upon the hillside overlooking
+the waters of the Loch. Nothing is left
+now save the site, and a half-deserted burying-ground
+where "Covenanter and Catholic, Scotts, and Kers
+and Pringles&mdash;all sorts and conditions of men&mdash;sleep
+their long sleep at peace together." Among
+the shrines of Yarrowdale, this is not the least
+notable. Like the grave of Keats outside the
+walls of Rome, as some one has said, "it would
+almost make one in love with death to be buried
+in so sweet a spot among the heather and brackens,
+and the sighing of the solitary mountain ash."
+St. Mary's Loch lies shimmering at our feet. Scott's
+"Marmion" picture is still wonderfully correct:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Oft in my mind such thoughts awake,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">By lone Saint Mary's silent lake;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Thou know'st it well&mdash;nor fen, nor sedge<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pollute the pure lake's crystal edge;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Abrupt and sheer, the mountains sink<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">At once upon the level brink;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And just a trace of silver sand<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Marks where the water meets the land.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span><br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Far in the mirror, bright and blue,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Each hill's huge outline you may view;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Shaggy with heath, but lonely bare,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Nor tree, nor bush, nor brake is there,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Save where, of land, yon slender line<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Bears thwart the lake the scatter'd pine,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Yet even this nakedness has power,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And aids the feeling of the hour."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>All this delightsome countryside is Hogg-land
+too, let us remember, as well as Scott-land. For
+here, in ballad-haunted Yarrow, the immortal
+James spent the best years of his life, failing
+so tantalizingly as farmer, but as poet, "King
+of the Mountain and Fairy school," dreaming
+so well of that most bewitching of all his conceptions&mdash;"Bonnie
+Kilmeny." Yonder, overlooking
+Tibbie Shiel's "cosy beild"&mdash;a howff of
+the Noctes coterie&mdash;stands the solitary white figure
+of the beloved Shepherd as Christopher North's
+prophetic soul felt that it must be some day. Hogg
+was born in the neighbouring Ettrick valley&mdash;in
+1770 presumably. His birth-cottage is extinct
+now, but a handsome memorial marks the spot.
+Most of his life, as has been said, was passed in the
+sister vale, first at Blackhouse, then at Mount
+Benger, and at Altrive (now Eldinhope), where he
+died three years after his truest of friends&mdash;Sir
+Walter. The Ettrick homeland guards his dust. Close
+by is the resting-place of Thomas Boston, that
+earlier "Ettrick Shepherd" whose "Fourfold State"
+and "Crook in the Lot" are not yet forgotten.
+In the sequestered Yarrow churchyard sleeps
+Scott's maternal great-grandfather, John Rutherford,
+who was minister of the parish from 1691 to
+1710. Scott spoke of Yarrow as the "shrine of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>
+his ancestors," and himself, like Hogg, and Willie
+Laidlaw, frequently worshipped within its old
+grey walls. Further down the stream, the "shattered
+front of Newark's towers" reminds us that
+here Scott placed the recital of the "Lay." He
+would fain have fitted up the ancient fabric as a
+residence, had it been possible. Almost opposite,
+the birthplace of Mungo Park, the first of the
+knight-errantry of Africa, attracts attention, and
+a mile or two nearer Selkirk, are Philiphaugh, and
+"sweet Bowhill," the two finest domains in the
+Forest. The Covenanters' Monument within Philiphaugh
+grounds is worthy of notice, and on the
+Ettrick side, Kirkhope and Oakwood, both in
+fairly good repair, are excellent specimens of the
+peel period. At Selkirk, the capital of Ettrickdale,
+Scott's statue as "the Shirra"&mdash;a most
+admirable representation&mdash;looks out at scenes upon
+which his eyes in life must often have feasted.
+Here we read the lines that express his heart's
+deep love for a district interwoven so closely with
+all the years of his working life:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"By Yarrow's streams still let me stray,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Though none should guide my feeble way;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Still feel the breeze down Ettrick break,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Although it chill my wither'd cheek."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<h5>PLATE 23</h5>
+<h3>"VIEW OF NEW ABBEY<br />AND CRIFFEL"</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_23" id="Plate_23"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate23.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="VIEW OF NEW ABBEY AND CRIFFEL" title="VIEW OF NEW ABBEY AND CRIFFEL" />
+</div>
+<p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VI_THE_LEADER_VALLEY" id="VI_THE_LEADER_VALLEY"></a>VI. THE LEADER VALLEY.</h2>
+
+<p>To the present writer, the valley of the Leader,
+or Lauderdale, has attractions and memories
+that are second to none in the Border.
+"Here, first,"&mdash;to use Hogg's lines&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"He saw the rising morn,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Here, first, his infant mind unfurled<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To ween the spot where he was born<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The very centre of the world."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Lauderdale constitutes one of the "three parts"
+into which Berwickshire, like Ancient Gaul, is
+divided. The others are the Merse, (<i>i.e.</i>, March-Land)&mdash;often
+a distinctive designation for the
+entire county, but applicable especially to the low-lying
+lands beside the Tweed; Lammermoor, so
+named from the Lammermoor Hills ranging across
+the county from Soutra Edge and Lammer Law
+in the extreme north-west, to the coastline at Fast
+Castle and St. Abbs. Lauderdale, the westernmost
+division, running due north and south, embraces
+simply the basin of the Leader and its tributaries
+so far as the basin is in Berwickshire. Its total
+length is not more than twenty-one miles, from
+Kelphope Burn, the real origin of the Leader, to
+Leaderfoot, about two miles below Melrose, where
+it meets the waters of the Tweed. Leaderdale
+and Lauderdale are but varieties of the name.
+A little off the beaten track, perhaps, it can be
+easily reached by rail to St. Boswells and Earlston,
+or to Lauder itself, from Fountainhall, on the
+Waverley Route, by the light railway recently
+opened. Its upper course among the Lammermoors
+is through bleak, monotonous hill scenery; but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>
+the middle and lower reaches pass into a fine series
+of landscapes&mdash;the "Leader Haughs" of many an
+olden strain&mdash;- flanked by graceful green hills and
+swells, and plains, that are hardly surpassed in
+Scotland for agricultural wealth and beauty. Of
+Berwickshire generally, it may be said that it has
+few industries and no mineral wealth to speak of.
+Its business is chiefly in one department&mdash;agriculture.
+For that the soil is particularly well adapted.
+Especially is this true of the Merse and Lauderdale
+districts, where the farmers take a high place in
+agricultural affairs, many of them being recognised
+experts and authorities on the subject. Thousands
+of acres on the once bald and featureless hill-lands
+of Lauderdale have been brought within the benign
+influence of plough and harrow, and are choice
+ornaments in a county famous for its agricultural
+triumphs all the world over. But Romance,
+rather than agriculture, is the true glory of
+the Leader Valley. It will be difficult to find a
+locality&mdash;Yarrow excepted&mdash;which is more under
+the spell of the past. May not Lauderdale, indeed,
+be claimed as the very birthplace of Scottish melody
+itself? Robert Chambers styled it "the Arcadia
+of Scotland," and was not Thomas of Ercildoune
+the "day-starre of Scottish poetry?"</p>
+
+<p>This, too, is the country of St. Cuthbert. At
+Channelkirk, he was probably born. At all events
+the first light of history falls upon him here, as a
+shepherd lad, watching his flocks by the Leader,
+and striving to think out the deep things of the
+divine life, with the most ardent longings in his
+soul after it. The traditional meadow, whence
+he beheld the vision which changed his career,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>
+is still pointed out, and his reputed birthplace at
+Cuddy Ha' keeps his memory green amongst those
+sweet refreshing solitudes. It is interesting to
+note Berwickshire's connection with the three most
+famous Borderers of history&mdash;St. Cuthbert, Thomas
+the Rhymer, and Walter Scott, of Merse extraction,
+whose dust Berwickshire holds as its most sacred
+trust.</p>
+
+<p>Lauder and Earlston are the only places of
+importance in the valley. The former&mdash;it is, by
+the way, the only royal burgh in the shire&mdash;boasts
+a considerable antiquity. It is still a quaint-looking
+but clean town, with long straggling street,
+and one or two buildings&mdash;the parish kirk and
+Tolbooth&mdash;offering decidedly Continental suggestions.
+Lauder's old-worldness and isolation are at
+an end, however. After much agitation, a railway-line
+now connects it with the rest of the world, and
+already the signs of a new life are apparent. Within
+a very few years the inevitable changes will be sure
+to have passed over this once quiet and exclusive
+little town. It is the "Maitland blude," which
+dominates Lauder, and Thirlestane Castle, built, or
+renovated rather, in the time of Charles II., is still
+a place to see. Amongst Scottish families, the
+Maitlands were first in place and power. Not a few
+of them were greatly distinguished as statesmen
+and men of letters&mdash;the blind poet and ballad-collector,
+Sir Richard; William Maitland, the celebrated
+Secretary Lethington; Chancellor Maitland,
+author of the satirical ballad, "Against Sklanderous
+Tongues;" Thomas, and Mary, Latin versifiers
+both; and the infamous "Cabal" Duke, the only
+bearer of the title. Within the well-kept policies<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>
+of Thirlestane, tradition has located the site of the
+historic Lauder Bridge, so fatal to James III.'s
+favourites in 1482. Dr. John Wilson, of Bombay,
+Orientalist and scholar, was born at Lauder in
+1804, and James Guthrie, the first Scottish martyr
+after the Reformation, was its minister for a short
+period.</p>
+
+<p>Earlston is seven miles down stream from
+Lauder. Before reaching the town of the Rhymer
+some spots of interest call for notice. At St.
+Leonard's&mdash;a little way out&mdash;a hospital off-shoot
+of Dryburgh, lived Burne the Violer, the last of the
+minstrel fraternity, a supposed prototype of the
+Minstrel of the "Lay," and author of the fine
+pastoral poem, "Leader Haughs and Yarrow," the
+verse-model for Wordsworth's "Three Yarrows."
+One verse was a great favourite with Scott and
+Carlyle, both of whom were known to repeat it
+frequently:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"But Minstrel Burne can not assuage<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">His grief, while life endureth,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To see the changes of this age,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Which fleeting time procureth;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For mony a place stands in hard case,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where blythe folk ken'd nae sorrow,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With Humes that dwelt on Leader-side,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And Scotts that dwelt on Yarrow."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Blainslie, famous for its oats ("There's corn enough
+in the Blainslies"), and Whitslaid Tower, a long ago
+holding of the Lauder family, are passed a mile or
+two on. At Birkhill and Birkenside the road forks
+leftwards to Legerwood, where Grizel Cochrane
+of Ochiltree (afterwards Mrs. Ker of Morriston),
+heroine of the stirring mail-bag adventure narrated
+in the "Border Tales," sleeps in its lately restored<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>
+kirk chancel. Chapel, and Carolside with a fine
+deer park, and most charming of country residences&mdash;at
+the latter of which Kinglake wrote part of his
+"Crimean War"&mdash;sit snugly to the right, in the
+bosky glen below.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 24</h5>
+<h3>CRIFFEL AND LOCH<br />KINDAR</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_24" id="Plate_24"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate24.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="CRIFFEL AND LOCH KINDAR" title="CRIFFEL AND LOCH KINDAR" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Earlston, the Ercildoune of olden time&mdash;name
+much better suited to the quiet beauty of its charming
+situation&mdash;has no unimportant place both in
+Scottish history and romance. It has been honoured
+by many royal visits. Here David the Sair Sanct
+subscribed the Foundation Charter of Melrose
+Abbey in 1136, and his son the Confirmatory
+Charter in 1143. Other royal visitors followed;
+there James IV. encamped for a night on his
+way from Edinburgh to Flodden; Queen Mary
+made a brief stay at Cowdenknowes as she passed
+from Craigmillar to Jedburgh; and lastly came
+Prince Charlie (unwelcome) on his march to Berwick-on-Tweed.
+But above all it is renowned as having
+been the residence (and birthplace probably) of
+Thomas the Rhymer, or True Thomas, or simply,
+as literary history prefers to call him, Thomas of
+Ercildoune. The Rhymer's Tower, associated with
+this remarkable personage, stands close to the
+Leader. Only a mere ivy-clad fragment remains
+(some 30 feet in height), but the memories of
+the place stretch back to more than six centuries,
+when Thomas was at the height of his fame as his
+country's great soothsayer and bard&mdash;the <i>vates
+sacer</i> of the people. His rhymes are still quoted,
+and many of them have been realised in a manner
+which Thomas himself could scarcely have anticipated.
+Scott makes him the author of the metrical
+romance "Sir Tristrem," published from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>
+Auchinleck <i>MS.</i> in 1804, but the Rhymer is unlikely
+to have been the original compiler. With his
+Fairyland adventures and return to that mysterious
+region, everybody is familiar. A quaint
+stone in the church wall carries the inscription:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Auld Rymr's Race<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Lyes in this place,<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>and the probability is that Thomas sleeps somewhere
+amidst its dark dust, unless, indeed, he be
+still spell-bound in some as yet undiscovered cavern
+underneath the Eildons, waiting with Arthur, and
+Merlin, the blast of that irresistible horn which is
+to "peal their proud march from Fairyland."</p>
+
+<p>Mellerstain in Earlston Parish, is the burial-place
+of Grisell Baillie, the Polwarth heroine and
+songstress, and author of the plaintive "Werena My
+Heart Licht I wad Dee." Cowdenknowes, "where
+Homes had ance commanding," one of the really
+classical names in Border minstrelsy is the scene
+of that sweetest of love lyrics, the "Broom o' the
+Cowdenknowes":&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"How blithe, ilk morn, was I to see<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">My swain come o'er the hill!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">He skipt the burn and flew to me:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">I met him with good-will."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Sandyknowe, Scott's cradling-ground in romance,
+and Bemersyde, one of the oldest inhabited houses
+in the Tweed Valley (partly peel), still evidencing
+the Rhymer's couplet:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Tyde what may betyde,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Haig shall be Haig of Bemersyde,&mdash;"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>are both in the near neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>A charming bit of country road lies between
+Earlston and Dryburgh, passing Redpath, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>
+Park, Gladswood, and round by Bemersyde Hill,
+from which Scott had his favourite view of the
+Tweed&mdash;the "beautiful bend" shrining the site
+of the original Melrose, and the graceful Eildons&mdash;and
+by which his funeral procession wended its
+mournful way just seventy-four years ago. Half-way
+between Earlston and Melrose (by road 4&frac12;
+miles), and close to</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Drygrange with the milk-white yowes,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Twixt Tweed and Leader standing,"<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>the latter stream blends its waters with those of
+the Tweed, where the foliage is ever at its thickest
+and greenest; and looking up the glen towards
+Newstead and Melrose, another vision of rare
+beauty meets the eye. Framed in the tall piers
+of the railway viaduct (150 feet high)&mdash;not at all a
+disfigurement&mdash;the gracefully-bending Tweed, no
+more fair than here, with the smoke rising above
+the Abbeyed town, Eildon in the foreground, and
+the blue barrier of the hills beyond, make up a
+picture such as may come to us in dreams.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="VII_LIDDESDALE" id="VII_LIDDESDALE"></a>VII. LIDDESDALE</h2>
+
+<p class="center"><i>From the Author's chapter in Cassell's "British Isles."</i>
+(<i>By permission.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>The Liddel rises in the Cheviot range, close to
+Jedhead, at an altitude of six hundred and
+fifty feet above sea level, and after a course
+of seven-and-twenty miles, with a fall of five hundred
+and forty-five feet, it joins the Esk at the Moat of
+Liddel, below Canonbie, near the famous Netherby
+Hall, twelve miles north of Carlisle and about
+eight from Langholm. It is fed by a score of
+affluents, of which the chief are the Hermitage
+and Kershope Waters, the latter constituting for
+nine miles or so the immediate boundary between
+the two countries. From its geographical position
+as cut off from the main division of the county,
+Liddesdale has little in common with the valleys
+of the Tweed and Teviot. A Liddesdaler, for
+instance, seldom crosses over to Tweedside, nor can
+a Tweedsider be said to have other than a comparatively
+slight acquaintanceship with his southern
+neighbour of the shire. Indeed, Liddesdale has
+been described as belonging in some respects more
+to England than to Scotland, and in a sense, it may
+be said to be the very centre of the Border Country
+itself.</p>
+
+<h5>PLATE 25</h5>
+<h3>CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE</h3>
+<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5>
+<h5>PAINTED BY</h5>
+<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<a name="Plate_25" id="Plate_25"></a>
+<img class="bbox" src="images/plate25.jpg" width="600" height="424" alt="CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE" title="CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE" />
+</div>
+
+<p>If now-a-days one may roam through Liddesdale
+with some degree of comfort, it was a very
+different matter for Scott and Shortreed little more
+than a hundred years since. They knew scarcely
+anything of the district, which lay to them, as was
+said, "like some unkenned-of isle ayont New
+Holland." But Scott was bent on his Minstrelsy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>
+ballad-huntings. And it was the very inaccessibility
+of the Liddel glens which inspired him with the
+hope of treasure. For seven autumns in succession
+they "raided" Liddesdale, as Scott phrased it,
+and, as he anticipated, some of the finest specimens
+in the Minstrelsy were the outcome of these excursions.
+Evidence of the utter solitariness and
+roadlessness of the region is found in the fact that
+no wheeled vehicle had been seen in Liddesdale
+till the advent of Scott's gig about 1798. Nor was
+there a single inn or public-house to be met with
+in the whole valley. Lockhart describes how the
+travellers passed "from the shepherd's hut to the
+minister's manse, and again from the cheerful
+hospitality of the manse to the rough and jolly
+welcome of the homestead, gathering wherever
+they went songs and tunes and occasionally more
+tangible relics of antiquity." But a hundred years
+have wrought wondrous transformation on the
+wild wastes of the Liddel. The "impenetrable
+savage land" of Scott's day, trackless and bridgeless,
+is now singularly well opened up to civilisation
+and the modern tripper. The Waverley Route
+of the North British Railway passes down the
+valley within a few miles of its best-known landmarks.
+The Road Committees are careful as to
+their duty, and a well-developed series of coaching
+tours has proved exceedingly popular. From a
+miserable expanse of bleak moors and quaking
+moss-hags, the greater portion of lower Liddesdale,
+at least, has passed into a picturesque combination
+of moor and woodland with rich pastoral
+holms and fields in the highest state of cultivation.</p>
+
+<p>But the main glory of Liddesdale is the romance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>
+that hangs over it. There is probably no parish
+in Scotland&mdash;for be it remembered that Liddesdale
+is virtually one parish&mdash;which could show such an
+extraordinary number of peel-houses to its credit.
+Their ruins, or where these have disappeared, the
+sites are pointed out with surprising frequency.
+A distinctively Border district, this was to be
+expected, and the like is true of the English side
+also. A Liddesdale Keep, still in excellent preservation&mdash;"four-square
+to all the winds that
+blow"&mdash;and far and away the strongest and the
+most massive pile on the Border frontier is Hermitage,
+in the pretty vale of that name, within easy
+reach from Steele Road or Riccarton stations, three
+and four miles respectively. Built by the Comyns
+in the thirteenth century, it passed to the Soulises,
+the Angus Douglases, to "Bell-the-Cat" himself,
+the Hepburn Bothwells, and the "bold Buccleuch,"
+whose successor still holds it. Legend may almost
+be said to be indigenous to the soil of Hermitage,
+and one wonders not that Scott found his happy
+hunting-ground here. The youngest child will
+tell us about that "Ogre" Soulis, who was so
+hated by his vassals for his awful oppression of
+them, that at last they boiled him alive&mdash;horrible
+vengeance&mdash;on the Nine-Stane Rig, a Druidic
+circle near by. In part confirmation of the tragedy
+it is asserted that the actual cauldron may still be
+seen at Dalkeith Palace. Scott was constantly
+quoting the verses from Leyden's ballad:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"On a circle of stones they placed the pot,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">On a circle of stones but barely nine;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They heated it red and fiery hot<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Till the burnish'd brass did glimmer and shine<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span><br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">They rolled him up in a sheet of lead,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A sheet of lead for a funeral pall;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">They plunged him in the cauldron red,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And melted him, lead, and bones, and all."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The Nine-Stane Rig is the scene also of the
+fragmentary "Barthram's Dirge"&mdash;a clever Surtees
+forgery undetected by Scott. Leyden's second
+Hermitage ballad&mdash;two of the best in the "Minstrelsy"&mdash;deals
+with the Cout or Chief of Keeldar,
+in Northumberland, done to death by the "Ogre"
+in the Cout's Pool close to the Castle. In the
+little God's-acre at Hermitage the Cout's grave is
+pointed out (Keeldar also shows what purports to
+be the Cout's resting-place). Memories of Mary
+and Bothwell come to us, too, at Hermitage. Here
+the wounded Warden of the Marches was visited
+by the infatuated Queen, who rode over from
+Jedburgh to see him, returning the same day&mdash;a
+rough roundabout of fifty miles&mdash;which all but
+cost her life. Dalhousie's Dungeon, in the north-east
+tower, recalls the tragic end of one of the
+bravest and best men of his time&mdash;Sir Alexander
+Ramsay, of Dalhousie, who was starved to death
+at the instance of Liddesdale's Black Knight,
+here anything but the "Flower of Chivalry." One
+may wander all over the Hermitage and Liddel
+valleys without ever being free from the romance-feeling
+which haunts them. Relics of the Roman
+occupation are in abundance on every hillside&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Many a cairn's grey pyramid,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Where urns of mighty chiefs lie hid."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>This was the homeland of the Elliots, "lions
+of Liddesdale," and the sturdy Armstrongs, of the
+crafty Nixons and Croziers&mdash;"thieves all":</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Fierce as the wolf they rushed to seize their prey:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The day was all their night, the night their day."<br /></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></div></div>
+
+<p>It is to be regretted that so few of the dozens
+of clan-strengths which at one time studded the
+district are any longer in evidence. Hartsgarth,
+Roan, (so named from the French Rouen), Redheugh,
+Mangerton&mdash;"Kinmont Willie's" Keep&mdash;Syde&mdash;"He
+is weel kenned Jock o' the Syde,"
+Copshaw Park&mdash;the abode of "little Jock Elliot"&mdash;Westburnflat&mdash;an
+"Old Mortality" name&mdash;Whithaugh,
+Clintwood, Hillhouse, Peel, and Thorlieshope,
+have mostly all disappeared since Scott's day. A
+generation more utilitarian in its tastes has arisen,
+and the stones taken to set up dykes and fill drains.
+Near the junction of the Liddel and Hermitage
+stood the strongly posted Castle of the "Lords of
+Lydal," and the important township of Castleton&mdash;not
+unlike the Roxburghs between Tweed and
+Teviot; and, like them also, both have long since
+passed from the things that are. Only the worn
+pedestal of its "mercat-cross" and a lone kirkyard
+have been left to tell the tale. Two miles farther
+down is the village of Newcastleton, formerly
+Copshawholm, planned by the "good Duke Henry"
+in 1793, a rising summer resort with a population
+of about a thousand.</p>
+
+<p>We cannot quit Liddesdale without recalling that
+this is "Dandie Dinmont's" Country. In writing
+"Guy Mannering" Scott drew largely from his
+earlier experiences amongst the honest-souled store-farmers
+and poetry-loving peasants of Liddelside.
+At Millburn, on the Hermitage, he enjoyed the
+hospitality of kindly Willie Elliot, who stood for
+the "great original" of "Dandie Dinmont."</p>
+
+<h2><a name="THE_END" id="THE_END"></a>THE END.</h2>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p class="center">PRINTED AND BOUND BY PERCY LUND, HUMPHRIES AND CO., LTD., THE
+COUNTRY PRESS, BRADFORD; AND 3, AMEN CORNER, LONDON, E.C.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="tranotes">
+<span class="smcap">Transcriber's Note:</span><br /><br />
+Minor spelling and typographical errors have been corrected without
+note. The missing Plate number for Plate 11 has been re-instated.<br /><br />
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, In the Border Country, by W. S. (William
+Shillinglaw) Crockett, Illustrated by James Orrock
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: In the Border Country
+
+
+Author: W. S. (William Shillinglaw) Crockett
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 17, 2010  [eBook #31678]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE BORDER COUNTRY***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Peter Vickers, and the Project
+Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net)
+
+
+
+Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this file
+      which includes the original illustrations in color.
+      See 31678-h.htm or 31678-h.zip:
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31678/31678-h/31678-h.htm)
+      or
+      (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31678/31678-h.zip)
+
+
+
+
+
+IN THE BORDER COUNTRY
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+POPULAR BOOKS ON ART.
+
+Edited by W. Shaw Sparrow
+
+THE ART AND LIFE LIBRARY. 1. "THE BRITISH HOME OF TO-DAY" (_out of
+print_). 2. "THE GOSPELS IN ART." 3. "WOMEN PAINTERS OF THE WORLD." 4.
+"THE OLD TESTAMENT IN ART," Vol. I. 5. "THE MODERN HOME" (_out of
+print_). 6. "THE OLD TESTAMENT IN ART," Vol. II. 7. "THE APOSTLES IN
+ART."
+
+HISTORY, TRAVEL, RUSTIC LIFE. 1. "MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS," with 26 Pictures
+in Colour by Sir James Linton, R.I., and James Orrock, R.I.; the text by
+Walter Wood. 2. "IN THE BORDER COUNTRY," with 25 Pictures in Colour by
+James Orrock, R.I., and Historical Notes by W. S. Crockett. 3. "IN
+RUSTIC ENGLAND," with 25 Pictures in Colour by Birket Foster; the text
+by A. B. Daryll.
+
+THE ART AND LIFE MONOGRAPHS. 1. "ETCHINGS BY VAN DYCK," in Rembrandt
+Photogravure the full size of the Original Proofs. Also an Edition de
+Luxe with Carbon Print Photographs of all the Etchings; the text by
+Prof. Dr. H. W. Singer. 2. "INGRES--MASTER OF PURE DRAUGHTSMANSHIP."
+Twenty-four Rembrandt Photogravures of important Drawings and Pictures;
+the introductions by Arsene Alexandre and W. Shaw Sparrow.
+
+ARTISTS OF THE PRESENT DAY. I. "FRANK BRANGWYN, A.R.A." the
+introductions by Leonce Benedite and W. Shaw Sparrow. 2. "LUCY E.
+KEMP-WELCH," the introductions by Professor Hubert von Herkomer and
+Edward F. Strange.
+
+SERIES OF BIBLE PICTURES. "THE SAVIOUR IN MODERN ART."
+
+London: Hodder & Stoughton
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration]
+
+  FRONTISPIECE
+
+  VIEW OF DUNSTANBOROUGH
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+
+
+
+IN THE BORDER COUNTRY
+
+With Pictures in Colour by
+
+JAMES ORROCK R I
+
+And Historical Notes by
+
+W. S. CROCKETT
+
+Edited by W. Shaw Sparrow
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Hodder & Stoughton
+London 1906
+
+
+
+
+  DEDICATED
+  TO THE MEMORY
+  OF
+  SIR WALTER SCOTT
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+Most of us prefer to spend our holiday tours
+away from our own country. There is a
+feeling of mild adventure when the land
+we behold is unknown to us, and when the
+language we hear filters into our questioning minds
+through an interpreter's suavity and chatter. And
+if we go to Switzerland we may earn even a
+reputation for intrepid pluck among the friends
+who listen to us on our return home, while the
+unlucky guides, who found for our trembling feet
+a pathway around each danger, will amuse their
+families during the winter with little tales at our
+expense, told with rough satire and with short,
+gruff peals of laughter resembling the noise of a
+crackling ice-sheet when it begins to slip downhill.
+
+No doubt, heroism on the hillside has a vast
+attraction to brave, fearless hearts like our own;
+but we should find, here in our own country, quite
+as much adventure as is good for us, and quite as
+much novelty also, if only we could bring ourselves
+to believe that knowledge of native scenes and
+traditions does not come to us in baptism or by
+virtue of our birth as British folk. If you ask a
+friend whether he knows the Border Country, he
+will probably answer yes, and then go on to say
+that he when a lad at school was a great reader
+of Scott, and thank heaven! his memory is a good
+one. Push the matter further, ask whether he has
+verified the truth of Scott's descriptions by a visit
+to the places described, and you will probably
+hear that your friend would rather dream of the
+North Pole or be bitten fiercely by the swarms of
+lively insects treasured throughout Brittany in
+every cottage and hotel.
+
+All this being somewhat commonplace, you may
+wish to get closer to this subject, and your friend
+at last, driven to bay, comes to the real point that
+pricks and distresses him. "You see," he will
+say, "a holiday tour at home is such a dickens of a
+gamble. You can't say how much it will cost.
+The only thing at all certain about it is that the
+cost will be more than you can afford. Wherever
+you go you become a goose to be plucked."
+
+Let us rebel against this iniquity! It is not
+a question of cheating, it is a trait of the national
+character. In Great Britain, as among the Americans,
+the gift of long sight in business has become
+very common, and few persons think it worth their
+while to see the practical good things within easy
+reach of the blessed short sight of common sense.
+Our chief aim is not to keep a market open and
+steady, but to glut it with over-production or
+to block it with excessive prices. "Here is a
+holiday-tripper, so let us make him pay!" That seems
+to be the unconquerable maxim at all seaside resorts
+and in every place where tired workers seek rest
+and health. I have known a week's holiday in
+the New Forest to cost as much as a tour of three
+weeks in the beautiful and bracing Ardennes.
+The Belgian is content to draw his customers back
+to him, while the Englishman grasps all he can get
+and sends us away discontented.
+
+It is true that the railway companies are doing
+all in their power to make holidays at home welcome
+and inexpensive. Their enterprise in this respect
+has no limits. But we cannot live on cheap railway
+tickets alone, whether single or return. Something
+should be done--and the newspapers could help--to
+establish in all attractive districts a reasonable
+tariff for board and lodging. It is only thus that
+Great Britain will be made popular during the
+holiday season, and that the great stream of gold--the
+holiday-making Pactolus--will be drawn
+from the Continent to nourish our own country
+sides and rural folk.
+
+It seems to be certain that, during the reign
+of the old stage coach, life in rustic England was
+cheaper than it is to-day. At any rate we must
+account in some way or other for the immense
+number of county histories and illustrated
+topographical books which teemed from the press from
+the middle of the eighteenth century to the time
+of J. M. W. Turner. To study these works is to
+be sure that our forefathers took the greatest
+delight in their own country, and that huge sums
+of money were spent in procuring fine sketches and
+adequate engravings. Side by side with these
+books on British topography were volumes on
+foreign travel, like those by William Alexander,
+who in 1792 accompanied Lord Macartney's
+embassy to China, where he made many exquisite
+sketches, brimful of humour and playful observation.
+John Webber, R.A., in 1776, accompanied
+Captain Cook on his third and last voyage, and
+made a drawing of Cook's death, which Byrne and
+Bartolozzi engraved. Two other Royal Academicians,
+Thomas and William Daniell, made India
+their sketching-ground, and in their great work on
+"Oriental Scenery," published in 1808, they devoted
+six volumes to a subject as fascinating as it was
+unhackneyed. Many other artists, too, travelled
+and made sketches for books, ranging from Girtin's
+Paris Views to Turner's "Rivers of France," and
+from Sir David Wilkie's Eastern sketches, reproduced
+in lithography by Nash, to the familiar work of
+Prout, Harding, J. F. Lewis, R.A., and Louis Haghe.
+
+But these books on foreign travel, admirable
+as they were, did not eclipse the many volumes on
+British scenery and landscape antiquities. All
+the ablest men among the earlier water-colour
+painters--Hearne, Malton, Dayes, Girtin, Turner,
+Francia, Havell, De Wint, David Cox, Cotman--made
+topographical sketches for illustrations, and
+lucky is he who "finds" their earliest efforts.
+To-day, happily, there are signs of renewed life in
+the old taste for picture books on the beauty and
+romance of our own country. It is a taste that
+invigorates, storing the mind with tonic memories
+and filling the eyes with beautiful scenes and
+colours; and we may be sure that it needs for its
+gratification books which are easy to carry and to
+read. The great folio of other days, as heavy
+almost as a country squire, is rightly treasured in
+the British Museum, like the remains of the Neolithic
+Man discovered in Egypt.
+
+The subject of the present book--the Border
+Country--should set us thinking, not of one holiday,
+but of many; and he who has once tasted the
+Border's keen rich air will long to return both to
+it and to the traditions that dwell among the vast
+landscapes and in the ruined castles. The distinguished
+connoisseur and painter whose sketches are here
+reproduced, has gone back to the Border Country a
+dozen times and more, always to find there a renewal
+of his first pleasure and a host of fresh subjects,
+that form a delightful connecting-link between each
+to-day and the armoured epochs of the long ago.
+
+And if the Border Country, with its enchanted
+places and memories, delights a landscape-painter,
+it is equally attractive to students of architecture,
+to lovers of folk-lore and literary history, to writers
+of romance in search of traditions and local colour,
+and to those of us also who indulge a passion for
+collecting either as botanists or as geologists.
+The rivers and streams have a rare fascination,
+and anglers, having made their choice, can come
+by all the sport which they desire. As to the hills,
+they have a certain modesty of height deceptive
+to the unwary, for although they have not won for
+themselves a reputation for fatalities to be described
+as Alpine, they are yet so dangerous when a mist
+gathers about them and thickens, that a climber
+may lose his life there quite comfortably, and
+without enjoying more than the customary amount
+of rashness or inexperience. Briefly, men may
+find in the Border Country nearly all their hobbies,
+and nearly all their professional studies.
+
+In this book the historical notes are written
+by one who lives by the Tweed, and whose name
+is associated with Border subjects. Mr. Crockett's
+work is filled with the Past, while the outdoor
+sketches by Mr. Orrock are at once so faithful
+topographically, and so much in sympathy with the
+classic traditions of English Water-Colour, that
+they show us what the Border Country is to-day,
+when seen through the medium of a painter's
+observation and knowledge.
+
+W. SHAW SPARROW.
+
+
+
+
+   CONTENTS
+
+                                              Page
+
+   Title Page. By David Veazey                   3
+
+   Dedication Page                               5
+
+   Preface. By Walter Shaw Sparrow               7
+
+   Contents                                     12
+
+
+        IN THE BORDER COUNTRY
+        BY W. S. CROCKETT
+
+                                              Page
+
+   I.   Introduction                            17
+
+        The Making of the Border                23
+
+        The Christianizing of the Border        26
+
+        Border Warfare                          36
+
+   II.  The English Border: Northumberland      44
+
+        "Merrie Carlisle"                       60
+
+   III. The Tweed and Its Associations          75
+
+   IV.  "Pleasant Teviotdale"                   94
+
+   V.   In the Ballad Country                  105
+
+   VI.  The Leader Valley                      117
+
+   VII. Liddesdale                             124
+
+
+
+
+   PLATES IN COLOUR BY JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+   FRONTISPIECE.
+                                           To face
+
+   View of Dunstanborough               Title page
+
+   PLATE 2
+
+   Crag Loch and the Roman Wall                 24
+
+   PLATE 3
+
+   Bamborough from Stag Rock                    32
+
+   PLATE 4
+
+   Holy Island Castle: Harvest Time             36
+
+   PLATE 5
+
+   View of Norham Castle                        40
+
+   PLATE 6
+
+   Twizel Bridge of the XIV. Century            44
+
+   PLATE 7
+
+   Flodden Field and the Cheviot Hills          48
+
+   PLATE 8
+
+   View of Warkworth                            52
+
+   PLATE 9
+
+   View of Alnwick Castle                       56
+
+   PLATE 10
+
+   View of Prudhoe-on-Tyne                      60
+
+   PLATE 11
+
+   View of Carlisle                             64
+
+   PLATE 12
+
+   View of Naworth Castle                       68
+
+   PLATE 13
+
+   View of Lanercost Priory                     72
+
+   PLATE 14
+
+   View of Bewcastle                            76
+
+   PLATE 15
+
+   View of Melrose                              80
+
+   PLATE 16
+
+   Melrose and the Eildons from Bemersyde Hill:
+   Scott's favourite View                       84
+
+   PLATE 17
+
+   Dryburgh Abbey and Scott's Tomb              88
+
+   PLATE 18
+
+   The Remnant of Wark Castle                   92
+
+   PLATE 19
+
+   Berwick-on-Tweed                             96
+
+   PLATE 20
+
+   Hollows Tower (sometimes called Gilnockie
+   Tower)                                      100
+
+   PLATE 21
+
+   Goldilands, near Hawick                     104
+
+   PLATE 22
+
+   "He passed where Newark's stately tower
+   Looks out from Yarrow's birchen bower"      112
+
+   PLATE 23
+
+   View of New Abbey and Criffel               116
+
+   PLATE 24
+
+   Criffel and Loch Kindar                     120
+
+   PLATE 25
+
+   Caerlaverock Castle                         124
+
+
+
+
+I. INTRODUCTION
+
+
+From Berwick to the Solway as the crow flies is little more than seventy
+miles. Between these two points lies the line that divides England from
+Scotland. But to follow this line literally along its every little in
+and out means a distance of no fewer than forty good miles more.
+Stretching diagonally across the country--north-east or south-west--we
+have the river Tweed as eastmost boundary for a considerable
+space--close on twenty miles; then comes the lofty barrier of the
+Cheviots extending to thirty odd miles, constituting the middle portion
+of the Border line; and finally, the Kershope Burn, with the Liddel and
+Esk Waters, and the small stream of the Sark, make up the westmost
+division, another twenty miles, at least. But to follow the Border on
+foot, by every bend of Tweedside, and over every nick and nook of the
+Cheviots, and the remaining water-marches, means, as has been indicated,
+a walk of not less than one hundred and ten miles. Almost everywhere in
+the land portion of the Border line--the Cheviots generally--the
+boundary is such that one may stand with one foot in England and the
+other in Scotland, and the rather curious fact will be noted, says one
+who has made this Border pilgrimage _par excellence_, that Scotland
+nowhere receives a single rivulet from England, whilst she sends to
+England tiny head-streams of the Coquet and Tyne only. The delimitation
+is thus a quite natural and scientific one, coinciding pretty closely to
+the water-parting of the two countries. Upon either side of this line of
+demarcation stretches the Border Country, famous in war and verse the
+whole world over--Northumberland and Cumberland to the south-east on
+English soil, and to the north-west, Berwickshire, Roxburghshire, with
+part of Dumfriesshire, the distinctively Border counties on the Scottish
+side. A wider radius, however, has been given to the Scottish Border
+from a very early period. Old Scots Acts of Parliament, applying to the
+Border district, embrace the counties of Peebles and Selkirk within the
+term, though these nowhere touch the frontier line, and portions of
+Lanarkshire and the Lothians have been also included. But on the face of
+it, these latter lie entirely outside the true Border limit. A line
+drawn on the map from Coquetmouth to "Merrie Carlisle," thence to the
+town of Dumfries, and again, almost due north, to Tweedsmuir (the source
+of the Tweed) in Peeblesshire, and to Peebles itself, and from Peebles
+eastward by the Moorfoots and Lammermoors to the German Ocean at St.
+Abbs, will give us for all practical purposes what may be regarded as
+the Border Country in its widest signification, geographical and
+historical.
+
+There is, of course, a narrower sense in which the phrase, the Border
+Country, is used--the literary. That, however, applies almost entirely
+to the Scottish side, for neither of the English Border counties owns a
+tithe of the associations in literature and romance that belong to those
+beyond the Tweed. The extraordinary glamour which has been cast over the
+Tweed and its tributaries by the writings of Sir Walter Scott, the
+Ettrick Shepherd, John Leyden, and others, has given a prominence to the
+Scottish side which is nowhere shared by its southern neighbour. But to
+say so is no disparagement to the English side. For what it lacks in
+literature it makes up in other admirable characteristics. Both Borders
+are rich in historical memories. Their natural features are not
+dissimilar, and in commercial prosperity they are much akin. In union
+they have long been happily wedded.
+
+The Border Country is a region of streams and hills which hardly rise to
+the dignity of rivers and mountains. Unlike the Clyde, the Tweed has no
+broad estuary laden with the commerce of the world. And the highest
+summits, Broad Law (2754 feet) in Scotland, and the great Cheviot (2676
+feet) in England, have nothing in common with the rugged Highland peaks
+except their height. Both, it has been said, are monuments of denudation
+only, "lofty because they have suffered less wear than their
+neighbours."
+
+It is difficult to imagine all this attractive Border Country as at one
+period a vast ocean-bed, over which waves lashed in furious foam, and
+sea-birds shrieked and flew amid the war of waters. Yet geology assures
+us such was its condition ages ago. By-and-by, it became a great rolling
+plain or table-land, and in age after age--how many and how long it were
+vain to speculate--there was carried on that stupendous process by which
+those fair green hills and glens have been so marvellously scooped out,
+and moulded and rounded into the objects of beauty that we see about us
+now. In the great glacier movements, in the working of the ice-sheets,
+and under the influences of frost, beating rain, and a constant
+water-flow operating through a countless series of years, we have the
+scientific explanation of their present benign and comfortable-looking
+appearance. The Border hills are of a purely pastoral type, grass-grown
+from base to summit, and usually easy of ascent. Here and there one
+meets with a distinctly Highland picture--in the deep dark glens down
+Moffatdale, for instance, but in the main they exhibit "the sonsie,
+good-humoured, buirdly look," for which Dr. "Rab" Brown expressed the
+liveliest predilection. Once at the curiously plateau-like summit of
+Broadlaw (out-topped in Southern Scotland by the Galloway Merrick only)
+or Hart Fell (2651 feet), or the Cheviot, the feeling amounts to a kind
+of awe even. Scott speaks of the silence of noonday on the top of
+Minchmoor, and the acute sense of human littleness one always feels
+amidst the "mountain infinities." "I assure you," he says, "I have felt
+really oppressed with a sort of fearful loneliness when looking around
+these naked towering ridges of desolate barrenness." The picture seen
+from such a height is both an inspiring and a humbling one. Beneath, it
+is a veritable earth-ocean that we are gazing upon. On all sides an
+innumerable series of what look like huge elephant-backed ranges are
+seen to be chasing each other like waves of the sea, as it were, ridge
+after ridge, rising, flowing, falling, and passing into the one beyond
+it, as far as the eye can reach. Enclosed between each we know are the
+rushing hill-burns and broader streams by which the Border country is
+everywhere so much blessed and beautified. At such a height we are
+entirely outside the human touches--altogether alone with Nature at her
+simplest and solemnest. The cry of a startled sheep and the summer hum
+of insects on the hill-top--
+
+    "That undefined and mingled hum,
+    Voice of the desert, never dumb"--
+
+are the only indications of life where all trace and feeling of man and
+his work have disappeared. Occasionally we shall meet by chance with the
+shepherd, maybe, who has his dwelling far down among the "hopes"--the
+cul-de-sacs of the uplands. Amongst those hills he lives and moves and
+has his being. All sorts of weather-conditions find him at his work. He
+never thinks of the loneliness, and the winter storms have not the
+terrors for him as for his predecessors. In some respects his life is an
+ideal one, and his class has a goodly record for intelligence and fine
+physique. The best specimens, indeed, of the country's manhood are drawn
+from the agricultural labouring classes--the "herds" and "hinds" who
+make up the bulk of the population in the purely rural districts. For
+agriculture, it need scarcely be said, is the staple business of both
+Borders. The Tweed industry, to be sure, affords employment to
+thousands, but on the Borders, as elsewhere, the land is the crucial
+problem. Within recent years many of the rural parishes have been
+woefully depleted, and until the land question is fairly tackled there
+seems small hope for a fresh and brighter chapter in the domestic
+history of the Border Country.
+
+A hundred years have transformed the face of the Border Country in a
+marked manner. The development of agriculture, and the growth of the
+tree-planting spirit, which began to bestir itself about the beginning
+of last century, have given to the Border its modern picturesqueness and
+its look of prosperity. Sir Walter Scott himself may be said to be the
+father of arboriculture in the South of Scotland. In the creation of
+Abbotsford, forestry was his main out-of-doors hobby, and the example
+set by one who had studied the subject thoroughly, and who discoursed
+pleasantly upon it, was quickly followed by all the neighbouring lairds
+and many others besides. Not that the country was altogether treeless
+before Scott's day. Here and there "ancestral oaks" clumped themselves
+about the great castles and mansions, with perhaps some further attempt
+at embellishment. But that was rare enough. It needed a man like Scott
+to popularize the notion, and to take the lead in an undertaking
+fraught, as this age well sees, with results so beneficent. We do not
+forget, of course, that in earlier historic times practically the whole
+of the Border Country was covered with wood. Its inhabitants, whose very
+names--Gadeni and Ottadini--signified "dwellers in the wood," were found
+by the Romans in their dense forests, and the first settlements were
+only possible through clearances of growing timber. Across the country,
+from Cadzow, in Renfrewshire, to the Ettrick, there stretched the vast
+Wood of Caledon (whence Caledonia), known at a later period as the
+Forest of Ettrick, or simply as the Forest (_e.g._, the "Flowers of the
+Forest"). There is no doubt that it was largely a forest in the ordinary
+acceptation, and not a mere deer-forest use of the term. Over and over
+again we have the various charters, as to the Abbeys, for instance,
+authorising the monks to cut down for building purposes and fuel oaks
+"from the forest," both in Selkirk and in Melrose, in Kelso and the
+Ettrick. The original religious house of Melrose was entirely of oak. So
+were the first churches founded by Kentigern and Cuthbert, and those
+even of a later date. The Forest of Ettrick survived to the time of the
+Stuarts, who had here their favourite hunting expeditions, James V. and
+Queen Mary especially being frequent visitors to the Borderland. The
+Forest of Megget, or Rodono (a sub-division of that of Ettrick), yielded
+on one occasion no fewer than five hundred head of game, bird and beast
+of the chase, and at another time eighteen score of red deer. In the
+reign of Mary there was issued a proclamation limiting and prohibiting
+the slaughter of deer in the Forest on account of their growing
+scarcity. And by the time of James VI. the hunting possibilities of the
+Border were at an end.
+
+More than anything else, the laying down of the great railway lines and
+the immense road improvements of last century have opened up practically
+every corner of the Border Country. There are now no places so utterly
+inaccessible as Liddesdale was during Scott's visits. It is possible to
+reach the most out-of-the-way parts with comparative comfort. And with
+the dawn of the motor age, still greater hopes and possibilities appear
+in store.
+
+  PLATE 2
+
+  CRAG LOCH AND THE
+  ROMAN WALL
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 24, 44, 45, 71, 73_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+THE MAKING OF THE BORDER
+
+It is from the Roman historian Tacitus that the light of history falls
+for the first time on the Border Country. It is a mere glimpse, however.
+But it is enough to show us the calibre of the men who held its forests
+and fastnesses at that remote period. They were the Brigantes, a branch
+probably of the Celts, who were the first to reach Britain, coming from
+the common home-land of the Ayrian race somewhere in Central Asia. Their
+kingdom, Brigantia, embraced all the country between the Mersey and
+Humber and the Links of Forth. They are spoken of as a strong,
+courageous and warlike people, able for many years to keep the Roman
+cohorts at bay and to check the northward progress of the invaders. The
+Roman Conquest of Britain, as is well known, was begun by Julius Caesar
+as far back as B.C. 55. It was not, however, till the time of Julius
+Agricola (A.D. 78-84) that the Romans obtained a firm footing on the
+island. Agricola's generalship was more than a match for the sturdy
+Brigantes. He carried the Roman eagles to the Forth and Clyde, fixing
+his main line of defence and his northmost frontier on the isthmus
+between these two firths. But about A.D. 120, when the Emperor Hadrian
+visited Britain, his chief work was the delimitation of the Roman
+territory by the great stone wall still bearing his name, stretching
+from the Tyne to the Solway, a distance of 73-1/2 miles. Twenty years
+later, however, Lollius Urbicus, the Emperor's lieutenant in Britain,
+appears to have revived and restored Agricola's boundary, so that what
+we now know as the Border Country, for more than three hundred years
+(A.D. 78-410), formed a part of the mightiest empire of the ancient
+world. Hadrian's rampart, the great camps at Cappuck, near Jedburgh, at
+Lyne in Peeblesshire, and Newstead at the base of the Eildons--the
+undoubted Roman Trimontium--with the roads known as Watling Street
+and the Wheel Causeway are the chief memorials of a singularly historic
+Occupation. Following the withdrawal of the Roman legions the district
+became the arena of constant warfare between Picts and Scots and
+Britons, until the sixth century, when it appears again in history as a
+kingdom of the Saxon Heptarchy under the name of Bernicia, and occupied
+by a colony of Angles and Saxons from the Low Countries of the
+Continent, the progenitors of the English-speaking race. Ida the Good
+governed Bernicia, having for his capital the proud rock-fortress of
+Bibbanburgh (so named from his queen Bibba), the modern Bamborough. In
+the following century Bernicia was combined with Deira, its southern
+neighbour (corresponding to Yorkshire) to form the powerful kingdom of
+Northumbria, extending, as Brigantia had done, from the Humber to the
+Forth. For the next three or four hundred years the story of the Border
+was little more than a wild record of lawlessness and bloodshed. It had
+grown to be a kind of happy hunting-ground for every hostile tribe
+within fighting distance, and for some even who were drawn from long
+distances, like the Danes, the latest of the invading hordes. But there
+is nothing of importance to narrate at this period. From a monarchy,
+Northumbria fell to the level of an Earldom in 954, and in 1018, the
+Scots, consolidated to some extent under Malcolm II., crushed the Angles
+of Northumbria in a great victory at Carham-on-Tweed (near Coldstream),
+of which the result was the cession to Scotland of the district known as
+Lothian--the land lying between the Tweed and Forth. Thus at the dawn
+of the 11th century we have the Tweed constituting the virtual boundary
+between the two countries. Cumberland, to be sure, was for a time Scots
+territory, but this the intrepid Rufus wrested back in 1092. So that by
+the close of that century the Border line appears to have taken the
+quite natural course of delimitation--the Tweed, the Cheviots, and the
+Solway, though it was not till as late as 1222 that a commission of both
+countries was appointed to adjust the final demarcation.
+
+
+THE CHRISTIANIZING OF THE BORDER
+
+It would be interesting to know precisely when and how the light of the
+Christian faith first penetrated the Border Country, but neither the
+time nor the manner can be ascertained with certainty. Indeed, it is
+impossible to say who were the real pioneers of the Gospel within the
+realm itself. The probability is that in the first instance it was the
+beneficent work of the Romans in whose legions were to be found many
+sincere Christians, many faithful soldiers of the Cross. From the
+"saints of Caesar's household"--not a mere picturesque dream--mayhap the
+Gospel found its way to the coasts of Britain, the greatest boon that
+could be conferred on a nation. An unvarying Peeblesshire tradition, for
+example, avers that among the first to witness for Christ and His truth
+by the banks of the Tweed and its tributaries were Roman soldiers from
+the great military station at Hall Lyne, and out of whose quiet
+fellowship-meetings in the recesses of the Manor, sprang the church of
+that valley, one of the oldest in the county, and dedicated to Saint
+Gordian, either the Emperor of that name, or what is more likely,
+"Gordian the well-beloved," Deputy of Gaul, who suffered martyrdom about
+the year 362. Be that as it may, it is at any rate certain that long
+before the departure of the Romans from Britain, Christianity had made
+considerable headway in the island. St. Ninian's is the earliest
+definite name which has come down to us, about the end of the 4th and
+beginning of the 5th century. His labours were confined chiefly to the
+Galloway side of the Border, where the remains of his Candida Casa, or
+White House, may still be seen at Whithorn on the shores of Wigtown Bay.
+It is more than possible that some of Ninian's missionaries, or a rumour
+of his work and teaching at all events, had passed beyond the Solway to
+the Clyde and Tweed watersheds. But, on the other hand, the difficulties
+following the departure of the Romans in the constant incursions from
+the Continent and the terrible internecine struggles of the time, would
+be sufficient to extinguish whatever light had faintly begun to shine.
+And it is not until well on in the 6th century that the darkness begins
+to grow less dense. Such names as Augustine, Paulinus, Columba,
+Kentigern or Mungo, Aidan and Cuthbert, come upon the scene, with each
+of whom seems to rest, as it were, the hope of the Church of Christ in
+Britain. In the year 597 Augustine arrived in Kent with forty monks in
+his train. The incident, apocryphal perhaps, which led to his mission,
+is at least interesting. The story has been told again and again, but it
+will bear repeating. Aella, King of Deira, had defeated his northern
+neighbour, and with a portion of the spoil hastened to fill the Roman
+slave-market. Gregory the Great, in the days that preceded his
+pontificate, passed one day through the market-place when it was crowded
+with people, all attracted by the arrival of fresh cargoes of
+merchandise; and he saw three boys set for sale. They were
+white-complexioned, fair and light, and with noble heads of hair. Filled
+with compassion, he enquired of the dealer from what part of the world
+they had come, and was told "from Britain, where all the inhabitants
+have the same fair complexion." He next asked whether the people of this
+strange land were Christians or pagans, and hearing that they were
+pagans he heaved a deep sigh, and remarked it was sad to think that
+beings so bright and fair should be in the power of the Prince of
+Darkness. He next enquired the name of their nation. "Angles," was the
+reply. "'Tis well," he answered, playing on the word, "rightly are they
+called _Angles_, for their faces are the faces of angels, and they ought
+to be fellow-heirs with the angels of heaven." "And what is the name,"
+he proceeded, "of the province from which they have been brought?" "From
+Deira," was the answer. Catching its name, he rejoined, "Rightly are
+they named _Deirans_. Plucked from _ire_, and called to the mercy of
+Christ." "And who," he asked once more, "is the King of this province?"
+"Aella," was the reply. The word recalled the Hebrew expression of
+praise, and he answered, "Allelujah! the praise of God shall be chanted
+in that clime!" And as Green so beautifully puts it in his "Making of
+England," "he passed on, musing how the angel faces should be brought to
+sing it." And brought to sing it they were when the evangelist Paulinus
+found his way in the best sense, to the heart of heathen Northumbria.
+Paulinus, whom men long remembered,
+
+    "Of shoulders curved, and stature tall,
+    Black hair, and vivid eye, and meagre cheek."
+
+had come from Rome with Bishop Justus in 601, and laboured with
+Augustine in the evangelization of Kent. When Ethelburga, daughter of
+Ethelbert of Kent, Augustine's convert, became wedded to Edwin, the
+still idolatrous King of Northumbria, Paulinus accompanied her as
+chaplain, and at the same time as missionary among the rude
+Northumbrians. The field of his labours was a wide one. For a long time
+he made no progress until Edwin himself, moved by his escape from
+assassination at the hands of the King of Wessex, and by his victory
+over Wessex, and under the gentle constraint of Paulinus, resolved that
+both he and his nobles should be baptized, and this resolution was
+carried into effect at York, in a hastily-built chapel (the precursor of
+the Minster), on Easter Eve, 627.
+
+The conversion of Edwin was followed by a great social revolution.
+Having convoked the National Assembly, he unfolded the reasons for his
+change of faith. Everywhere he was applauded. Crowds of the nobility,
+chiefs of petty states, and the great mass of the people followed the
+example of their King. The worship of the ancient gods was solemnly
+renounced, and even Coifi, the high priest, was the first to give the
+signal for destruction by hurling his lance at an idol in the pagan
+temple. Paulinus was now one of the most popular figures in Northumbria.
+Wherever he preached, crowds gathered to hear him and to be received,
+like their Overlord, into the Christian communion. Many spots in
+Northumberland are identified with the name of this early and ardent
+Apostle of the North. Pallinsburn, overlooking Flodden Field, is, of
+course, Paulinus's Burn, where large numbers were baptized. In one of
+his missionary journeys we are told (Bede) how he was occupied for six
+and thirty consecutive days from early morn until nightfall, in teaching
+the people and in "washing them with the water of absolution" in the
+river Glen, which flowed by the royal "vill" of Yeavering (anciently
+Ad-gebrin) in Glendale. At the Lady's Well near Holystone, in the vale
+of the Coquet, about three thousand converts were welcomed into the
+Church of Christ. A graceful Runic cross erected on the spot bears the
+following inscription:--
+
+  +IN THIS PLACE
+  PAVLINVS THE BISHOP
+  BAPTIZED
+  THREE THOUSAND NORTHVMBRIANS.
+  EASTER, DCXXVII.+
+
+But after six years of incessant labours, the death of Edwin in battle
+with Penda, King of the Mercians, and Cadwallon of North Wales, put a
+sudden stop to his work. He did not wait for the honour of martyrdom,
+but went back with the widowed queen to Kent, where he became Bishop of
+Rochester, and she the Abbess of Lyminge. Paulinus died in 644, and was
+buried in the chapter-house at Rochester.
+
+  PLATE 3
+
+  BAMBOROUGH FROM
+
+  STAG ROCK
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 25, 58, 59_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+But it is ever the darkest hour that precedes the dawn. It was
+impossible that England should lose her faith and fall back under the
+rule of a mere heathen conqueror. After the "thoughtful Edwin,
+mightiest of all the kings of the isle of Britain," as he has been
+called (he was, by the way, the founder of Edinburgh), there arose
+another champion of the new light in the person of Oswald, Edwin's
+nephew. Oswald's history connects him with Columba the Irishman, and
+"Apostle of Scotland," to whose splendid work the nation owed its first
+real religious advance. About 563, when in his forty-second year, and
+accompanied by twelve companions, Columba found a resting-place on the
+little island of Hy or Iona, off the west coast of Scotland, whence he
+set himself to the great work of his life--the conversion of the Pictish
+tribes beyond the Grampians. At Iona Oswald had sheltered during the
+home troubles, and many valuable lessons he must have learned for the
+strenuous life that lay in front of him. Called to lead his countrymen
+against their oppressors, Oswald literally fought his way to the throne.
+On a rising ground, a few miles from Hexham, near the Roman Wall, he
+gathered in 634 a small force, which pledged itself to become Christian
+if it conquered in the engagement. Causing a cross of wood to be hastily
+made, and digging a hole for it in the earth, he supported it with his
+own hands while his men hedged up the soil around it. Then, like Bruce
+at Bannockburn years afterwards, he bade his soldiers kneel with him and
+entreat the true and living God to defend their cause, which he knew to
+be just, from the fierce and boastful foe. This done they joined battle,
+and attacked Cadwallon's far superior forces. The charge was
+irresistible. The Welsh army fled down the slope towards the
+Deniseburn,--a brook near Dilston which has been identified with the
+Rowley Burn,--and Cadwallon himself, the hero of fourteen battles and
+sixty skirmishes, was caught and slain. This was the battle of
+Hefenfelt, or Heaven's Field, as after-times called it. Not only was the
+last hero of the old British races utterly routed, but Oswald, King of
+once more reunited Bernicia and Deira, proved himself to the Christian
+cause all that Edwin had been, and more, a prince in the prime of life,
+and fitted by his many good qualities to attract a general enthusiasm of
+admiration, reverence, and love. Resolved to restore the national
+Christianity, and to realize the ambitions of his exile life, he turned
+naturally to Iona and to the teachers of his youth for missionaries who
+would accomplish the holy task. At his request, Aidan, one of the
+fittest of the Columban band, was sent to carry on the work of
+evangelization in Northumbria, which happy event may be reckoned as the
+first permanent planting of the Gospel in the Eastern Border. The light
+which he kindled was never afterwards quenched. And as Columba had
+chosen Iona, so for Aidan there was one spot to which his heart went out
+above all others. This was the island-peninsula of Lindisfarne, off the
+Northumbrian coast, so called from the little river Lindis, which here
+enters the sea, and the Celtic _fahren_, "a recess." Bede has a fine
+passage which is worth quoting:--"On the arrival of the Bishop (Aidan)
+King Oswald appointed him his episcopal see in the isle of Lindisfarne,
+as he desired. Which place as the tide flows and ebbs twice a day, is
+enclosed by the waves of the sea like an island; and again, twice in the
+day, when the shore is left dry, becomes contiguous to the land. The
+King also humbly and willingly in all cases giving ear to his
+admonitions, industriously applied himself to build and extend the
+church of Christ in his kingdom; wherein, when the Bishop, who was not
+skilful in the English tongue, preached the gospel, it was most
+delightful to see the King himself interpreting the Word of God to his
+commanders and ministers, for he had perfectly learned the language of
+the Scots during his long banishment. From that time many of the Scots
+came daily into Britain, and with great devotion preached the word to
+those provinces of the English over which King Oswald reigned, and those
+among them that had received priest's orders, administered to them the
+grace of baptism. Churches were built in several places; the people
+joyfully flocked together to hear the Word; money and lands were given
+of the King's bounty to build monasteries; the English, great and small,
+were, by their Scottish masters, instructed in the rules and observance
+of regular discipline; for most of them that came to preach were monks."
+(Eccl. Hist. Bk. iii., c. 2). Than Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, as it
+came to be called, there is no more sacred spot in Northumbria--in
+England even. Its history is coeval with that of the nation, and it was
+from that hallowed centre of Christian activity that the gospelizing of
+both sides of the Border was planned and prayed over many an anxious
+hour and day. Aidan's missionaries went forth planting churches in
+various places. One of the best known of these settlements was Old
+Melrose, the original shrine by the beautiful bend of the Tweed, a mile
+or two down the river from the second and more celebrated Melrose. Here
+Eata, "a man much revered and meek;" and Boisil, who gave his name to
+the neighbouring St. Boswells; and Cuthbert, the most illustrious of
+them all, served God with gladness. Of the latter, certainly the most
+conspicuous Borderer of his day, something more must be said. Three
+kingdoms claim his birthplace. The Irish Life of the Saint alleges him
+to be sprung of her own blood royal; he is affirmed also to have come of
+noble Northumbrian descent; whilst the Scottish tradition makes him the
+child of humble parents, born and reared in Lauderdale, one of the
+sweetest valleys of the Border. It is a fact, at any rate, that when the
+light of record first falls upon him the youthful Cuthbert is seen as a
+shepherd lad by the Leader; he is religiously inclined, and whilst his
+comrades sleep, he spends whole nights in prayer and meditation. One day
+he hears voices from out the unseen calling to him. Another night it is
+a vision of angels that he fancies he beholds bearing the soul of the
+sainted Aidan to the skies. Such was Cuthbert, a kind of mystic, a
+dreamer of strange dreams, destined apostle and Bishop, and next to
+Augustine himself the most illustrious figure in the annals of English
+monasticism. The church of Channelkirk (anciently Childeschirche)
+dedicated to the Saint, probably indicates his birth-spot. The Leader
+valley is full of legends of his boyhood, the whole west of
+Berwickshire, indeed, being haunted ground for Cuthbert's sake. Other
+great names in the history of early Border Christianity are those of
+Benedict Biscop, the founder of the monasteries of Jarrow and Monk
+Wearmouth; Wilfrid, the founder of Hexham; and the Venerable Bede--the
+"father of English learning"--whose "Church History of the English
+People" is the greatest of the forty-five works that bear his name.
+
+By far the most flourishing epoch in the religious development of the
+Border was the founding of the great Abbeys under David I.--"St.
+David"--as he is often called, though he was never canonized. Whilst
+still a Prince, he founded a monastery at Selkirk, and after his
+accession to the throne, there arose the four stately fanes of Kelso
+(1128), Melrose (1146), Jedburgh (1147), and Dryburgh (1150)--those rich
+and peaceful homes of art and intellectual culture whose ruins now
+strike us with marvel and regret. There is probably no other country
+district equally small in area that can boast a group of ruins at once
+so grand and interesting as those that lie within a few miles of each
+other along the banks of the Tweed and Jed. Founded almost
+contemporaneously, they were destroyed about the same time, by the same
+ruthless hands. The story of each is the story of all--burned and
+rebuilt, then spoiled and restored again, time after time, until finally
+at the dismal Hertford Invasion, in 1545, they all received their
+death-stroke. Other religious centres on the Scottish side were
+Coldingham in Berwickshire, founded in 1098 by King Edgar, son of
+Canmore and St. Margaret; Dundrennan, in Kirkcudbrightshire, founded in
+1142 by Fergus, Lord of Galloway; and Sweetheart or New Abbey, founded
+in 1275 by Devorgoil, great-great-granddaughter of David the First. On
+the English side, the Church had a less vigorous growth, having no such
+munificent patron as King David, but there, too, it could boast of
+Carlisle Cathedral, the Abbey of Alnwick, the Priories of Lanercost, and
+Hexham, and the still more renowned and classic Lindisfarne. The history
+of the latter began, as we saw, with the year 635, when Saint Aidan
+accepted the invitation of King Oswald to teach the new faith to the
+Northumbrians. Aidan's church, built of wood, and thatched with the
+coarse bents of the links, could not long withstand the storms or the
+brands of the wild sea-rovers. And of the stone sanctuary reared under
+the rule of succeeding bishops no portion of the present ruin can be
+considered as forming a part. Sir Walter Scott has thrown the spell of
+his genius around the picturesque ruins, but the tragical story of
+Constance of Beverley has no foundation in fact.
+
+  PLATE 4
+
+  HOLY ISLAND CASTLE:
+
+  HARVEST-TIME
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 32, 33, 36_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+BORDER WARFARE
+
+Of Border warfare it were impossible to treat within the limits of a
+library. In no part of the kingdom was the fighting and raiding spirit
+more rampant. The Border clans were constantly at war with one another,
+the slightest excuse provoking an attack, and not unfrequently was there
+no _raison d'etre_ whatever for the accompanying ruin and desolation. It
+ran apparently in the blood of those old Borderers to live on unfriendly
+terms with their neighbours, and to seize every possible opportunity
+against them. The record of the raids does not lean more to one side
+than another for aggressiveness, though generally the Scot has been
+credited for this quality. But as a matter of fact both sides were
+equally at fault and equally determined. And the onslaughts were
+often of the most savage and persistent kind, and were almost entirely
+unchecked by the legal restraints which were set in force. The division
+of the district into East, West and Middle Marches, with a sort of
+vice-regal Warden appointed over each, was not always conducive to peace
+and good feeling. At certain times, a day of truce was held when the
+Wardens of both sides met and settled any questions that might be in
+dispute between their followers, but occasionally the decision was
+anything but harmonious--as in the case of the Reidswire, for instance.
+In the "Debateable or Threep Lands," which lay partly in England and
+partly in Scotland, between the Esk and the Sark, no end of worry and
+difficulty was experienced. "Its chief families were the Armstrongs and
+Grahams, both clans being noted as desperate thieves and freebooters.
+They had frequently to be dealt with by force of arms till in the 17th
+century, the Grahams were transported to Ireland, and forbidden to
+return upon pain of death. Other districts of the Borders from time to
+time called forth hostile visitations from the Scottish kings or their
+commissioners, when great numbers of the robbers were frequently seized
+and hanged. So late as 1606, the Earl of Dunbar executed as many as 140
+of them. The Union of the Crowns removed some obvious grounds of
+contention between the English and Scottish people, and after the middle
+of the 17th century the Borders gradually subsided into a more peaceful
+condition."
+
+It was doubtless due to the exigencies occasioned by those frequently
+recurring wars and raids from the 13th to the 16th century that the
+whole country on both sides of the frontier became so thickly studded
+with castles and peel-towers, the numerous ruins of which still form a
+distinctive feature in Border scenery, although from times much earlier
+the castles and strongholds were characteristic elements in the old
+Scottish landscape. Alexander Hume, of Polwarth, the poet-preacher of
+Logie, near Stirling, in his fine description of a "Summer's Day," thus
+refers to them:--
+
+    "The rayons of the sunne we see
+      Diminish in their strength;
+    The shade of everie tower and tree,
+      Extended is in length.
+    Great is the calm for everie quhair
+      The wind is settlin' downe;
+    The reik thrawes right up in the air,
+      From everie tower and towne."
+
+Generally these towers were planted on heights overlooking the
+river-valleys, and, as a rule, within sight of one another, in order
+that the signals of invasion or alarm--flashed by means of the bale
+fire--might be the more rapidly spread from point to point. Very few of
+them are now entire--the best-preserved on the Scottish side being,
+perhaps, Barns, at the entrance to the Manor valley; Bemersyde, still
+inhabited; and Oakwood on the Ettrick, incorporated in the present farm
+buildings; and on the English side, Corbridge and Doddington and
+Whittingham. From a return made in 1460 we find that Northumberland
+alone possessed 37 castles and 78 towers, and the Scottish side was
+equally well strengthened and defended. Amongst the larger and more
+important fortresses on the English side were the Castles of Alnwick,
+Bothal, Carlisle, Cockermouth, Coupland, Dilston, Elsdon, Etal, Ford,
+Naworth, Norham, Prudhoe, Wark, Warkworth; and on the Scottish side,
+Berwick, Branxholme, Caerlaverock (the true Ellangowan of "Guy
+Mannering"), Cessford, Ferniherst, Hermitage, Hume, Jedburgh, Neidpath,
+Peebles, Roxburgh, Threave, Traquair, besides, as has been said,
+hundreds of peel and bastle-houses scattered all over the country.
+
+It would be a quite impossible task to chronicle the incessant
+clan-raids of the Border, and to narrate all the invasions that took
+place on either side would be to repeat in great measure the general
+history of England and Scotland. But at least two authentic reports,
+covering little more than a year, may be quoted as showing the
+extraordinary havoc and destruction caused by the latter. "In 1544 Sir
+Ralph Evers and Sir Brian Latoun, with an English army, invaded the
+Scottish Border, and between July and November they destroyed 192 towns,
+towers, barmkyns, parish churches, etc.; slew 403 Scots and took 816
+prisoners; carried off 10,386 head of cattle, 12,492 sheep, 1296 horses,
+200 goats, and 850 bolls of corn, besides an untold quantity of inside
+gear and plenishing. In one village alone--that of Lessudden (now St.
+Boswells)--Sir Ralph Evers writes that he burned 16 strong
+bastle-houses. Again in September of the following year, the Earl of
+Hertford a second time invaded the country, and between the 8th and the
+23rd of that month, he razed and cast down the abbeys of Jedburgh,
+Kelso, Dryburgh, and Melrose, and burned the town of Kelso. At the same
+time he destroyed about 30 towns, towers and villages on the Tweed, 36
+on the Teviot, 12 on Rulewater, 13 on the Jed, 45 on the Kale, 19 on the
+Bowmont, 109 in the parishes of Eccles and Duns in Berwickshire, with 20
+other towns and villages in the same county. The places destroyed are
+all named in the report to the English king, along with a classified
+list of that terrible sixteen days' destruction, embracing 7 monasteries
+and friars' houses, 16 castles, towers and peels, 5 market-towns, the
+immense number of 243 villages, with 13 mills, and 3 hospitals."
+
+It cannot be forgotten that upon Border soil were fought at least six of
+the great historical battles of the nation, _viz._, Halidon Hill (1333);
+Otterburn (1388); Homildon Hill (1402); Flodden (1513); Solway Moss
+(1542); and Ancrum Moor (1544). Of mere internal contests there are the
+fight at Arkinholm (Langholm, 1455), between Scotsmen, where James II.
+broke the power of the Douglases; the battle of Hedgeley Moor (1464),
+and of Hexham (1464) between the English adherents of Lancaster and
+York, when the Lancastrians were defeated; the affair of Melrose
+(Skirmish Hill, 1526) between Borderers under the Earl of Angus and
+Buccleuch; and Philiphaugh (1645) when Leslie drove Montrose from the
+field. Of what were purely faction fights and deeds of daring such as
+the Raid of the Reidswire (1575), and the rescue of Kinmont Willie
+(1596), the ancient ballads will keep their memory green for many a year
+to come.
+
+  PLATE 5
+
+  VIEW OF NORHAM
+
+  CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39, 60, 93_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Two great incidents of Border warfare stand out before all
+others--Otterburn and Flodden. Old Froissart has told the story of
+Otterburn. The Scottish barons, tired of the fickleness and
+inactivity of their king, determined to invade England, met at Aberdeen,
+and arranged the preliminaries for a great gathering at Southdean,
+beyond Jedburgh. On the day appointed the best blood in Scotland was
+assembled. "There had not been for sixty years so numerous an
+assembly--they amounted to twelve hundred spears and forty thousand
+other men and archers." The Earl of Douglas, the Earl of March and
+Dunbar, and the Earl of Moray, with three hundred picked lancers and two
+thousand infantry, burst into Northumberland, rode south as far as
+Durham, and laid waste the country. In one of their encounters before
+Newcastle-on-Tyne the Earl of Douglas had a hand-to-hand combat with Sir
+Henry Percy--- Hotspur,--who was overthrown, Douglas seizing his
+pennon--the silken streamer bearing his insignia, which was fastened
+near the head of his lance. In triumph he exclaimed: "I will carry this
+token of your prowess with me into Scotland, and place it on the tower
+of my castle at Dalkeith, that it may be seen from afar." "By God, Earl
+of Douglas," replied Hotspur, "you shall not even bear it out of
+Northumberland; be assured you shall never have this pennon to boast
+of." "You must come then," answered Douglas, "this night and seek for
+it. I will fix your pennon before my tent, and shall see if you will
+venture to take it away." On the following evening the Scottish army
+"lighted high on Otterburn," in Redesdale, and there Sir Henry and Ralph
+Percy, with six hundred spears of knights and squires and upwards of
+eight thousand infantry, fell upon the Scots, who were but three hundred
+lances, and two thousand others. The fight that followed was one of the
+most spirited in history, and ended in the death of Douglas, the capture
+of Hotspur, the serious wounding of his brother, and the killing or
+capture of one thousand and forty Englishmen on the field, the capture
+of eight hundred and forty others in the pursuit, and the wounding of a
+thousand more. The Scots lost only one hundred slain and two hundred
+captured. "It was," says Froissart, "the hardest and most obstinate
+battle ever fought." The tragic incidents of this encounter have been
+kept alive not historically but poetically. It is the immortality of
+song which preserves the memory of Otterburn. No contest was more
+emphatically the "ballad-singer's joy." Two ballads, the one Scots, the
+other English, give their respective versions of the event with those
+natural discrepancies between the two, which may easily be accounted for
+on patriotic grounds. That given in Scott's "Minstrelsy" is
+unquestionably the finer, and contains the lines so often quoted by
+Scott himself, and at no occasion more pathetically than during his
+visit--pretty near the end--to the old Douglas shrines in Lanarkshire,
+the locality of "Castle Dangerous":
+
+    "My wound is deep. I fain would sleep;
+      Take thou the vanguard of the three,
+    And hide me by the braken bush
+      That grows on yonder lilye lea.
+
+    "O bury me by the braken bush,
+      Beneath the blooming brier;
+    Let never living mortal ken
+      That ere a kindly Scot lies here."
+
+The story of Flodden is the darkest, perhaps, on the page of Scottish
+history, and like Otterburn, has been written in strains grand and
+majestic, and certainly the most heart-moving in the whole realm of
+northern minstrelsy. There Scotland lost her King, the Archbishop of St.
+Andrew's, James's natural son, two abbots, twelve earls, seventeen
+lords, four hundred knights, and fifteen thousand others, all sacrificed
+to the fighting pride of James IV. of Scotland. Pierced by several
+strong arrows, the left hand hacked clean from the arm, the neck laid
+open in the middle, James's body was carried mournfully to Berwick. He
+had died a hero's death, albeit a foolish one. His last words have lived
+in the lines of the rhymer:
+
+    "Fight on, my men,
+      Yet Fortune she may turn the scale;
+    And for my wounds be not dismayed,
+      Nor ever let your courage fail.
+
+    Thus dying did he brave appear
+      Till shades of death did close his eyes;
+    Till then he did his soldiers cheer,
+      And raise their courage to the skies."
+
+The era of Blood and Iron on the Borders has passed long since. Peace
+and prosperity prevail on both sides of the Tweed. Old animosities are
+seldom spoken of, and hardly ever remembered. A cordial amity and
+good-will and co-operation evidence the strength of the cementing
+element which no loyal heart, either north or south, can ever desire to
+see broken.
+
+
+  PLATE 6
+
+  TWIZEL BRIDGE OF THE
+
+  XIV. CENTURY
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_Famous in connection with Flodden Field_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+II. THE ENGLISH BORDER
+
+NORTHUMBERLAND
+
+
+A line drawn from Berwick to Carlisle, and across England to the Coquet,
+thence north again, coast-wise, to the old Tweedside borough will give
+us, for all practical purposes, the English Border Country. Only a part
+of the Roman Wall, as far as Crag Loch and Borcovicus (Housesteads),
+will come within the present purview, which excludes Newcastle itself
+and the "coaly Tyne." We are to deal with rural Northumberland rather,
+and with a little corner of Cumberland, the immediate and true Border.
+Even at this time of day much of the English Border is still a kind of
+_terra incognita_ to the tourist and holiday-maker. For travelling
+facilities have not been of the best hitherto. But it is a new order of
+things now, and even the most outlying spots can be reached with a
+wonderful degree of comfort impossible not so very long ago. Bewcastle,
+for instance, and the once wild and trackless "Debateable Land" between
+Canonbie and the Solway, have come within comparatively easy distance of
+railroad and coaching centres. The crossing of the Solway Moss by the
+Caledonian Route, and the opening out of the line from Alnwick to Wooler
+and Cornhill, together with the numerous driving tours that are in daily
+operation during the summer at least, have become the _open sesame_ to a
+district practically shut up even less than a half century since. It is
+now possible to breakfast in Carlisle, or Newcastle, or much further
+south for that matter (or north), and within an hour or two to be
+revelling in the most delightful rusticities at the foot of the
+Cheviots, or in the very heart of them. The remotest localities are
+rendered accessible even for a single day's outing, and a holiday on the
+English Border is not likely to be a disappointing one. There is
+something to suit every taste. If one is archaeologically inclined, for
+instance, Northumberland has one of the finest collections of military
+antiquities in the kingdom, from the rude circular camps and
+entrenchments of the primitive inhabitants to the great castles and
+peel-towers of mediaeval times. The Romans have left a mighty monument of
+their power--none more significant--in the huge barrier thrown across
+the lower half of the county, and in the stations and roads connected
+with it. In some respects the Roman Wall may be accounted
+Northumberland's principal attraction, and a pilgrimage between Tyne and
+Solway must always repay itself. If one is artistically inclined, there
+are beauty-spots for all canvases--as befits the birthplace of such
+masters as Bewick and Foster. And as an angler's paradise the Cheviot
+uplands have long been popular. The historical memories of the English
+Border are outstanding. For centuries this little fringe of country was
+a continuous warring-ground for the two nations that are now happily
+one. Upon its soil were fought some of the bloodiest, and it must be
+added, some of the most fool-hardy and unjustifiable fights on record.
+In its religious story it has much to boast of. By its missionaries and
+by its sword it won England from heathendom to the Christian Church. The
+development of the monastic system in Northumbria did more than
+anything else to civilise and colonise the entire realm, Scotland
+included. "Its monasteries," as Green says, "were the seat of whatever
+intellectual life the country possessed, and above all, it had been the
+first to gather together into a loose political unity the various tribes
+of the English people, and by standing at their head for nearly a
+century to accustom them to a national life out of which England as we
+have it now was to spring."
+
+The physical conditions, generally speaking, are similar on both sides
+of the Border. Wide arable expanses, well-wooded and fertile, cover the
+chief valleys and much of the Northumbrian coast-line. But in the main,
+the landscape is purely pastoral for miles, showing few signs of human
+life, and the nearest habitation often at a considerable distance. The
+Northumbrian uplands are confined chiefly to the Cheviots, the Pyrenees
+on a small scale; two-thirds of their whole three hundred square miles
+are in the county, constituting perhaps the loveliest cluster of
+pastoral hills in the island. Of this group, Cheviot--to be more
+distinctive, _the_ Cheviot--(2676 feet) sits in the centre almost,
+dignified and massive, the "recumbent guardian of the great lone
+moorland." Others, taking them according to height, are Cairn Hill
+(2545), Hedgehope (2348), Comb Fell (2132), Cushat Law (2020), Bloody
+Bush Edge (2001), Windy Gyle (1963), Dunmore (1860), Carter Fell (1600),
+and Yeavering Bell (1182)--a graceful cone overlooking the pretty hamlet
+of Kirknewton. A climb to the broad back of the Cheviot, or the rounded
+top of Yeavering, should be made by every tourist who rambles along the
+Border. Both are reachable from the Scottish and English sides, as by
+Bowmont and Colledge Waters, or by that loveliest of all the upland
+dales, Langleeford. Despite the somewhat quagmire character of its flat
+summit, the view from the Cheviot, as one might expect, is a truly
+inspiring one, comprising the whole coast-line between Berwick and
+Tynemouth, and the vast inland expanse from Midlothian to the
+Solway--the Scottish Border _in toto_. The Cheviots are hills rather
+than the "mountains blue" of poetic licence. Yet all are imposing to a
+degree, and exhibit an excellent contour against the sky-line. They have
+none of the wildness and savagery of the Highland ranges, and even the
+steepest are grass-grown from skirt to summit, being easy of ascent, and
+commanding the most varied and brilliant prospects.
+
+Robert Crawford sings of them as "Cheviot braes so soft and gay," and
+Gilpin likens the hirsels browsing on the most acclivitous to pictures
+hung on immense green walls. From time immemorial those charming uplands
+have been grazed by the quiet, hardy, fine-wooled, white-faced breed of
+sheep which bear their name; and in the days of the raids (for this is
+the true "raider-land" of history) they were resonant, more than any
+other part of Scotland, with the clang of freebootery and the yell of
+strife. Mrs. Sigourney's apostrophe to the present day flocks may be
+quoted:
+
+    Graze on, graze on, there comes no sound
+      Of Border warfare here,
+    No slogan cry of gathering clan,
+      No battle-axe, or spear.
+    No belted knight in armour bright,
+      With glance of kindled ire,
+    Doth change the sports of Chevy-Chase
+      To conflict stern and dire.
+
+    Ye wist not that ye press the spot,
+      Where Percy held his way
+    Across the marches, in his pride,
+      The "chiefest harts to slay;"
+    And where the stout Earl Douglas rode
+      Upon his milk-white steed,
+    With "fifteen hundred Scottish spears,"
+      To stay the invaders' deed.
+
+    Ye wist not, that ye press the spot
+      Where, with his eagle eye,
+    King James, and all his gallant train,
+      To Flodden-Field swept by.
+    The Queen was weeping in her bower,
+      Amid her maids that day,
+    And on her cradled nursling's face
+      Those tears like pearl-drops lay:
+
+    Graze on, graze on, there's many a rill
+      Bright sparkling through the glade,
+    Where you may freely slake your thirst,
+      With none to make afraid.
+    There's many a wandering stream that flows
+      From Cheviot's terraced side,
+    Yet not one drop of warrior's gore
+      Distains its crystal tide.
+
+  PLATE 7
+
+  FLODDEN FIELD AND
+  THE CHEVIOT HILLS
+
+  FROM A WATER COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 40, 48, 99, 103, 121_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Of the river valleys running south of the Border line, the chief are the
+Breamish, or the Till, as it is termed from Bewick Brig--the "sullen
+Till" of "Marmion"; the Aln, from Alnham Kirk to the sand-banks of
+Alnmouth, a glen emphatically rich in legendary lore; the Coquet, the
+most picturesque and most popular trouting-stream in the North of
+England; and Redesdale, redolent of "Chevy Chase," rising out of Carter
+Fell, and joining the North Tyne at Redesmouth, a little below the
+pleasant market-town of Bellingham. The chief towns are Berwick and
+Alnwick, Hexham being outside our present delimitation. Many of the
+smaller places, and the villages, are models of their kind. Wooler, at
+the base of the Cheviots, is a choice mountaineering and angling centre,
+from which, by way of Langleeford, is the favourite route to Cheviot
+top. It was at the Whitsun Tryst or Wooler sheep fair, that Scott's
+grandfather spent his old shepherd's thirty pounds in buying a horse
+instead of sheep, but with such happy results in the sequel. And hither
+came Scott himself in August, 1791, to imbue his mind with the legends,
+the history, and scenery of the neighbourhood. "Behold a letter from the
+mountains," he writes to his friend William Clerk, "for I am very snugly
+settled here, in a farmer's house (at Langleeford), about six miles from
+Wooler, in the very centre of the Cheviot hills, in one of the wildest
+and most romantic situations, which your imagination, fertile upon the
+subject of cottages, ever suggested. 'And what the deuce are you about
+there?' methinks I hear you say. Why, sir, of all things in the world,
+drinking goat's whey; not that I stand in the least need of it, but my
+uncle having a slight cold, and being a little tired of home, asked me
+last Sunday evening if I would like to go with him to Wooler; and I,
+answering in the affirmative, next morning's sun beheld us on our
+journey through a pass in the Cheviots, upon the backs of two special
+nags, and man Thomas behind with a portmanteau, and two fishing-rods
+fastened across his back, much in the style of St. Andrew's cross. Upon
+reaching Wooler we found the accommodation so bad that we were forced to
+use some interest to get lodgings here, where we are most delightfully
+appointed, indeed. To add to my satisfaction we are amidst places
+renowned by feats of former days; each hill is crowned with a tower, or
+camp, or cairn; and in no situation can you be near more fields of
+battle--Flodden, Otterburn, and Chevy Chase. Ford Castle, Chillingham
+Castle, Coupland Castle and many another scene of blood are within the
+compass of a forenoon's ride. Out of the brooks with which the hills are
+intersected, we pull trouts of half a yard in length, as fast as we did
+the perches from the pond at Pennicuik, and we are in the very country
+of muirfowl.... My uncle drinks the whey here, as I do ever since I
+understood it was brought to his bedside every morning at six, by a very
+pretty dairymaid. So much for my residence. All the day we shoot, fish,
+walk, and ride; dine and sup on fish struggling from the stream, and the
+most delicious heath-fed mutton, barn-door fowls, pies, milk cheese,
+etc, all in perfection; and so much simplicity resides amongst those
+hills that a pen, which could write at least, was not to be found about
+the house, though belonging to a considerable farmer, till I shot the
+crow with whose quill I write this epistle." (See Lockhart, chapter
+vi.). In this passage we have an interesting glimpse of what
+Northumberland was a hundred years ago, and of the great author enjoying
+a holiday while yet reading for the law, and before fame began to blow
+her trumpet in his praise.
+
+Sweeter villages than Etal and Ford could scarcely be imagined out of
+Arcadia. Etal Castle was destroyed by James IV. previous to Flodden,
+and has never been restored. Ford Castle, built originally in 1287, has
+been frequently renovated and enlarged, and is now a most excellent
+example of the military style of architecture plus the modern mansion
+house. Formerly held by the Herons, its chatelaine figures in "Marmion"
+as the syren who detained the King when he ought to have been in the
+field. The frescoes in Ford schoolroom, painted by the late Lady
+Waterford, are objects not only of good art but of a well-conceived
+philanthropy. Ancroft and Lowick, Chatton and Chillingham are delightful
+summer resorts. Chillingham is famous for its Elizabethan Castle, but
+still more so, perhaps, for its herds of wild cattle, the survivors of
+the wild ox of Europe, and the supposed progenitors of our domestic
+cattle. Other summer resorts are Belford and Doddington, but the whole
+coast-line, indeed, is dotted with the most desirable holiday-nooks in
+the county.
+
+  PLATE 8
+
+  VIEW OF WARKWORTH
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39, 51, 52, 56_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Coquet bears the palm for picturesqueness amongst Northumbrian
+valleys, and is about forty miles in length. From Alwinton, the first
+village after crossing the Cheviots, where the Alwine joins the
+Coquet--"a place of slumber and of dreams remote among the hills"--to
+Warkworth Castle, the stream carries history and romance in every league
+of its course. Here are such names as Biddlestone, the "Osbaldistone,"
+of "Rob Roy" (there are other claimants such as Chillingham and
+Naworth); Harbottle, a hamlet of venerable antiquity; Holystone,
+mentioned already in connection with Paulinus; Hepple, with the remnant
+of a strong peel tower of the Ogles; and Rothbury, the capital of Upper
+Coquetdale, a snug township in the midst of an amphitheatre of the
+wild, stony Simonside hills. In the old days it was a reiving centre of
+notoriety. All this part of Northumberland, indeed, was a constant
+freebooting arena, neither Scots nor English being content without some
+fray on hand. There is not a village, or a town, or farmhouse even, but
+has some tale to tell of that uncanny period. Cragside, Lord Armstrong's
+palatial seat, reclaimed, like Abbotsford, from the barren mountain
+side, is within a mile of Rothbury. Then come Brinkburn Priory, "an
+ancient fabric awful in repose," founded by William de Bertram, lord of
+Mitford, in the reign of Henry I.; Felton, a neat little village, where
+Alexander of Scotland received the homage of the Northumbrian barons;
+and Warkworth, "proud of the Percy name," one of the quaintest and
+oldest towns in Northumberland, and teeming with historical and romantic
+associations. So near the sea, and with some of the rarest river scenery
+in the county close at hand, the place is in high favour as a holiday
+resort. A Saxon settlement, all interest centres around its dismantled
+Castle, believed to have been built by Roger Fitz-Richard, to whom Henry
+II. granted in 1158 the manor of Warkworth. Strengthened from time to
+time, it became a Percy possession, and was the chief residence of the
+family to the middle of the 15th century. At the height of its power it
+must have been well-nigh impregnable, encircled on three sides by the
+winding banks and overhanging woods of the Coquet, and on a commanding
+eminence above it; and though time and many devastating hands have long
+since riven its ancient walls, the pile still presents a splendid
+example of a baronial stronghold, second to few on the Borders.
+
+Among Northumbrian towns, Alnwick (the county town) ranks next to
+Newcastle. But whilst the rise of the latter and its prosperity and
+colour have been each affected by the great industrial changes of the
+century, Alnwick's development has been very different. Lying peacefully
+amidst pastoral hills, by the side of a river unpolluted by modern
+commerce, this ancient Border town still presents the plain and austere
+aspect which it wore when the great stage-coaches passed through on
+their way from London to Edinburgh. In Newcastle, despite its numerous
+relics of antiquity, one's mind is ever dominated by the potent Present,
+whereas in Alnwick, it is ever under the spell of the dreamy Past. The
+quaint, irregular stone-built houses are touched with the sober hues of
+antiquity, and seem to take their character from the great baronial
+relic of feudal times. The history of the town is chiefly a record of
+
+    "Old unhappy far-off things,
+    And battles long ago."
+
+It was founded by the Saxons, who styled it Alainwick, "the town on the
+clear water." Like Carlisle, its history is largely one of attack and
+retaliation. The Scottish Sovereigns were peculiarly unfortunate at
+Alnwick. For here Malcolm Canmore was speared to death in 1093, and
+William the Lion made prisoner in 1174, and inside the castle of to-day
+with its gilded ceilings, luxurious upholstery, and majestic mantels of
+Italian workmanship and marbles, are still to be seen the dour dungeons
+in which many a Scot died miserably while the Percy and his retainers
+feasted above. King John burned Alnwick to the ground in 1216, David I.
+besieged and captured it. Each of the Edwards visited the place. It was
+again devastated by the Scots in 1427. In 1463, it was held for Edward
+IV., and in 1464 it fell into the hands of Queen Margaret. Royalists and
+Roundheads occupied Alnwick during the wars between Charles and his
+Parliament, but after 1700 it settled down to comparative quiet. The
+Castle, of course, dominates the place. There is what William Howitt
+calls "an air of solemn feudality" overhanging the whole town. Streets
+and buildings, and the general tone harmonize well with the prevailing
+conditions. Only one of its four gates survives--the gloomy, old,
+weather-beaten Bondgate, built by the haughty Hotspur about the year
+1450. The Cross dates from the same period. The most interesting and
+venerable structure is the Church of St. Mary and St. Michael, founded
+about the beginning of the 14th century, Perpendicular in style, and
+abundant in Percy memorials. But the chief object of interest is the
+Castle with the Castle enclosure (some five acres in extent). The Castle
+itself is the most magnificent specimen of a feudal fortress in England,
+a verdict in which all who see it will agree. What an extraordinarily
+fascinating and profoundly impressive place, from the very stones of the
+courtyard to the defiant-looking warrior figures on the battlements of
+the barbican, and elsewhere. What an endless succession of towers and
+turrets (some of them with distinctive names, Hotspur and Bloody Gap)
+archways and corridors, walls and embrasures, and all the grim massive
+paraphernalia of the past, apparently as doggedly determined as ever.
+Perhaps, as one writer puts it, only a Percy could live quite at his
+ease as master of Alnwick Castle. One cannot imagine the average man
+making himself congenially at home here. But the inside comforts are an
+overflowing compensation for a somewhat forbidding exterior. We are told
+that even the towers at the angles of the encircling walls are museums
+of British and Egyptian antiquities, and game trophies, collected by
+members of the family. The fourth Duke has left much to show for the
+quarter of a million he lavished upon the building--exquisite wood
+carving, frescoes, marbles, and canvases. Mantovani, who restored the
+Raphael frescoes in the Vatican, was not too great a man to be hired by
+a Percy to adorn his Border castle. The walls of the grand staircase are
+panelled with beautiful marbles. There are unique paintings: the
+dining-room, a noble apartment, is pompous with Percys in fine frames,
+bewigged, robed and plain; the first Duke and his wife, who helped him
+to a dignity neither his money nor his courtly manners could have won
+for him, hang suitably in the place of honour above the hearth. Vandyck,
+Moroni, and Andrea del Sarto are worthily represented in the castle.
+Giorgione, who did so well the comparatively little he had time for, is
+here in his "Lady with the Lute." Raphael, Guido, and Titian are also
+within these swarthy outer walls, Titian's landscape contribution being
+specially notable, like Giovanni Bellini's "The Gods enjoying the Fruits
+of the Earth." One looks from it to the fair Northumberland country
+beyond the windows and then at the splendour and taste of the castle,
+and fancies, inevitably, that the Percys themselves have in these later
+days obtained quite their share of the privileges of Bellini's gods.
+Nothing that makes for domestic pleasure is lacking at Alnwick Castle.
+There is a stately library of some 15,000 books, with chairs for
+dreaming and chairs for study; and, not to slight meaner comforts, there
+is a kitchen that is a model of its baronial kind, about fifty yards
+distant from the dining-hall, with which it communicates by an
+underground passage. The first English possession acquired by the house
+of Percy north of the Tees was Dalton, afterwards called Dalton-Percy.
+Then came Alnwick, originally owned by the De Vescis, and purchased from
+them about 1309; Warkworth; Prudhoe-on-Tyne, one of the most picturesque
+of Northumbrian fortresses; Cockermouth; and Keeldar, in the Cheviots.
+And what of the Percys who ruled, and still rule, at Alnwick in their
+day of might? Very ancient is the name, numbering among its early
+patriarchs such grand old heroes as Manfred the Dane, and
+
+    "Brave Galfred, who to Normandy
+      With vent'rous Rollo came;
+    And from his Norman Castles won,
+      Assumed the Percy name."
+
+The pedigree traces the descent of Angus de Perci up to Manfred, and
+that of Josceline de Louvain up from Gerberga, daughter and heiress of
+Charles, Duke of Lorraine, to Charlemagne, and in the male line to the
+ancient Dukes of Hainault. This same Josceline, who was brother-in-law
+to King Henry I., married in 1168, Agnes, the great Percy heiress, and
+assumed the name of his wife:
+
+    "Lord Percy's heir I was, whose noble name
+    By me survives unto his lasting fame;
+    Brabant's Duke's son I wed, who, for my sake,
+    Retained his arms, and Percy's name did take."
+
+Their youngest son, Richard de Percy, then head of the family, was one
+of the chief barons who extorted Magna Charta from King John, and the
+ninth Lord, Henry, gave much aid to Edward I. in the subjugation of
+Scotland. It was he who purchased Alnwick. His son--another
+Henry--defeated David II. at Neville's Cross (1346); his grandson fought
+at Crecy; his great-grandson, the fourth Lord Percy of Alnwick, was
+marshal of England at the coronation of Richard II., and was created the
+same day Earl of Northumberland. By far the greater part of the romance
+of the Percys has centred round Harry Hotspur (eldest son of the
+preceding), whom the dead Douglas defeated at Otterburn, and who fell
+himself at Shrewsbury (1403) fighting against Henry IV. The soubriquet
+of Hotspur was given him because "in the silence of the night, when
+others were quietly sleeping, he laboured unwearied, as though his spur
+were hot."
+
+  PLATE 9
+
+  VIEW OF ALNWICK
+  CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 38, 49, and 53 to 58_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The first Earl was slain at Bramham Moor (1408). The second Earl fell
+fighting for Henry VI. at St. Albans in 1455. The third at Towton
+(1461), and it was his brother the fourth Earl who comforted himself as
+he lay bleeding to death on Hedgley Moor (1464) that he had "saved the
+bird in his bosom." The fifth Earl was murdered in 1489. The sixth Earl
+was the lover of Anne Boleyn, maid of honour to Queen Catherine, and had
+King Henry VIII. for his rival, who in great wrath commanded Cardinal
+Wolsey to break off the engagement between them. The seventh Earl for
+espousing the cause of Mary, Queen of Scots, was beheaded in 1572. The
+eighth Earl in 1585 was found dead in bed with three pistol shots
+through his breast, whether by suicide or murder. The ninth Earl was
+imprisoned for fifteen years in the Tower on a baseless suspicion of
+being privy to the Gunpowder Plot. The tenth Earl fought on the
+Parliamentary side in the Civil War, and with the death of Josceline,
+the eleventh Earl, in 1670, the male line of the family came to an end.
+The eleventh Earl's only child--an heiress--married the Duke of
+Somerset, who was created in 1749 Baron Warkworth, and Earl of
+Northumberland, with remainder (having no male issue) to his son-in-law
+Sir Hugh Smithson, of Stanwick, a Yorkshire knight who in his youth had
+been an apothecary in Hatton Gardens. Sir Hugh succeeded to the Earldom
+in 1750, and was created in 1766 Earl Percy and Duke of Northumberland.
+The seventh Duke succeeded in 1899.
+
+From Alnwick it is fourteen miles to Bamborough, "King Ida's castle,
+huge and square." No traveller along the great north road between
+Alnwick and Berwick can fail to be struck with an object so boldly
+prominent as Bamborough. Far and wide it meets the vision, and is the
+more conspicuous from the flat character of its surroundings and the
+very open coast. Its base is an almost perpendicular mass of basaltic
+rock overlooking the sea, at a height of 150 feet. Founded in 547, it
+suffered many a siege, most of all at the hands of the Danes in 933. In
+the years that followed it was being constantly rebuilt, and as
+constantly stormed and broken again. As the great bombards left it in
+the fourth Edward's reign, so it lay dismantled for centuries. In 1720,
+Lord Crewe, the philanthropic Bishop of Durham, purchased the Castle and
+bequeathed it for charitable purposes--the reception and care of the
+poor, etc. In 1894 it was acquired by the late Lord Armstrong, at a cost
+of a quarter of a million, and fitted up as a convalescent home. The
+charming village of Bamborough, nestling within easy distance, has some
+celebrity as a health resort. The church in which St. Aidan died is one
+of the oldest in the country, and the churchyard contains Grace
+Darling's tomb. The Farne Islands, the scene of her brave exploit, are
+easily visible from the shore. There are seventeen in all, forming three
+distinct groups, Longstone, the heroine's home, lying farthest out. It
+was from the lighthouse on this latter island that the noble maiden of
+barely twenty-two descried the wreck of the _Forfarshire_, the 7th
+September, 1838, and formed her resolve at rescue. "He that goes out and
+sees the savage and iron nature of the rocks will not avoid wondering at
+the desperate nature of the attempt," crowned by an almost superhuman
+triumph. On the great Farne, or House Island, his favourite place of
+retirement, St. Cuthbert died in 687. How his followers bore, from
+shrine to shrine, the uncorrupted body of their Bishop is a tradition
+well-known. "For the space of seven years," says Reginald of Durham,
+"Saint Cuthbert was carried to and fro on the shoulders of pious men
+through trackless and waterless places; when no house afforded him a
+hospitable roof, he remained under covering of tents." Further, we are
+told how the monks first carried their precious burden to the stone
+church at Norham; thence towed it up the river to Tillmouth; on to
+Melrose, the Saint's home-sanctuary by the Tweed; thence through the
+Lowland glens towards the English Border where, descending the
+head-waters of the Tyne, they came to Hexham; passing westward to
+Carlisle in Cumberland, and Dufton Fells in Westmoreland, and over into
+Lancashire; then once more eastward to the monastery at York; and
+finally northward again to a last resting place in Durham, when
+
+            "After many wanderings past,
+    He chose his lordly seat at last
+    Where his Cathedral, huge and vast,
+    Looks down upon the Wear."
+
+
+"MERRIE CARLISLE"
+
+A glance at the outskirts of Carlisle suggests at once the fact that its
+founders had considered the strategic value of the site. The old
+Brigantes never planted their towns without due examination of the whole
+lie of the land, and especially with a view to its defencibleness. The
+river-junctions were often their favourite settling places. Hence the
+origin of Carlisle, and many others of the Border towns--Hawick,
+Selkirk, Kelso, etc. With its three encompassing streams--the Eden, the
+Caldew, and the Petteril, which still enclose the Castle and Cathedral
+hills in a sort of quasi-island, Carlisle has been aptly called "the
+city of the waters." Its situation certainly is all but perfect, whilst
+the picturesqueness and the extensiveness of its surrounding scenery are
+the admiration of all who see it. Built upon a hill which its walls
+once enclosed but which would now shut out its most populous suburbs,
+Carlisle commands a prospect only limited by the lofty mountain chain
+that encircles the great basin in which Cumberland lies. From the summit
+of the Cathedral or from the Keep of the Castle, the eye sweeps without
+interruption a vast prepossessing landscape, rich in wood and water and
+fertile valleys, over which the light and shade are ever gambolling, and
+the seasons spreading their variegated hues. Southward, across this fair
+expanse, the majestic Skiddaw rears his noble crest, and Helvellyn his
+wedge-like peak, radiant with the first and last rays of the sun.
+Saddleback, and the lesser hills, link the apparently unbroken chain
+with Crossfell and the eastern range; while further to the left the
+Northumberland fells bound the horizon. Then come the uplands by
+Bewcastle and the Border and the pastoral Cheviots. Away round to the
+west, the magnificent belt is terminated by "huge Criffel's hoary top"
+standing in solemn grandeur above the Solway.
+
+  PLATE 10
+
+  VIEW OF PRUDHOE-ON-TYNE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39 and 56_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+There are few fairer or wider panoramas in Britain, and none more
+permeated with the very spirit of romance. What Lockhart said of
+Sandyknowe is equally true of this singularly fascinating view-point. To
+whichever hand we turn we may be sure there is "not a field but has its
+battle, and not a rivulet without its song."
+
+Unlike Melrose, which may claim to be the literary capital of the Border
+Country, Carlisle is the fighting capital. Its most stirring memories
+are of raiders and rescues, and its very air is
+
+            "full of ballad notes
+    Borne out of long ago."
+
+Despite its Cathedral, Carlisle is really more Scottish than English. A
+town which proclaimed the Pretender must be Scottish enough. No other
+English town fills so large a place in Scottish history. And even its
+present manners and customs, and no little part of its dialect, are
+coloured with Scottish sentiment and tradition. For which it cannot be a
+whit the worse! Walk about Carlisle, and one is charmed with the
+exquisite pleasantness of the place, the sense of comfort and prosperity
+that reigns in its streets and suburbs, the steady flow of traffic
+running through it, and the welcome geniality of its inhabitants. What a
+delightful spot is Stanwix yonder, for instance! And the banks of the
+Eden have something of those "Eden scenes" about them which Burns
+claimed for the Jed. That Bridge is not unlike Rennie's at Kelso. The
+public buildings are worth a more minute examination than the passing
+stranger usually gives. An atmosphere of delicious semi-antiquity is the
+crowning feature of "Merrie Carlisle," and one feels instinctively that
+under the inevitable modernity of the place there is an older story
+written on its stones--
+
+    "Old legends, of the monkish page,
+    Traditions of the saint and sage,
+    Tales that have the rime of age,
+    And chronicles of eld."
+
+It is so old a town that one cannot be certain of its origin. The name
+is apparently British, derived probably from _Caer Lywelydd_, or simply
+Caer Lywel, "the town or fort of Lywel," but whether this was a tribal,
+or local, or personal name it would be hazardous to say. By the Romans
+it was known as _Luguvallium_ or _Luguballia_, possibly "the town or
+fort by the Wall." This the Saxons abbreviated and altered to _Luel_,
+the original name, with the prefix _Caer_, hence Caer-Luel, Caerleil,
+Carleol, Karluil, Karliol, Carliol, Carlile, and Carlisle.
+
+"No English city," says Bishop Creighton, "has a more distinctive
+character than Carlisle, and none can claim to have borne its character
+so continuously through the course of English history. Carlisle is still
+known as 'the Border city,' and though the term 'the Border' has no
+longer any historical significance, it still denotes a district which
+has strongly marked peculiarities and retains a vigorous provincial
+life. There was a time when the western Border was equally important
+with the Border on the north, when the fortress on the Dee had to be
+stoutly held against the foe, and when the town which rose among the
+scrub by the upper Severn was a place of conflict between contending
+races. But this struggle was not of long duration, and Chester and
+Shrewsbury ceased to be distinctly Border towns. On the north, however,
+the contest continued to be stubbornly waged, till it raised up a
+population inured to warfare, who carried the habits of a predatory life
+into a time when they were mere survivals of a well-nigh forgotten past.
+Of this period of conflict Carlisle is the monument, and of this lawless
+life it was long the capital. Berwick-upon-Tweed alone could venture to
+share its glory or dispute its supremacy; but Berwick was scarcely a
+town; it was rather a military outpost, changing hands from time to time
+between the combatants; it was neither Scottish nor English, more than a
+castle, but less than a town, an accidental growth of circumstances,
+scarcely to be classed as an element of popular life. Carlisle, on the
+other hand, traces its origin to times of venerable antiquity, and can
+claim through all its changes to have carried on in unbroken succession
+the traditions of an historic life. It was the necessary centre of a
+large tract of country, and whether its inhabitants were British or
+English its importance remained the same. It was not merely a military
+position, but a place of habitation, the habitation of a people who had
+to trust much to themselves, and who amidst all vicissitudes retained a
+sturdy spirit of independence. This is the distinguishing feature of
+Carlisle; it is 'the Border city.' But though this is its leading
+characteristic which runs through all its history, it has two other
+marks of distinction, when compared with other English towns. It is the
+only town on British soil which bears a purely British name; and it is
+the only town which has been added to England since the Norman
+Conquest."
+
+  PLATE 11
+
+  VIEW OF CARLISLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 44, and 60 to 70_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Briefly, the headlines of Carlisle's history are these. Founded
+originally by the Britons, it was held by the Romans for close on four
+centuries. Many Roman remains (coins, medals, altars, etc.) have been
+unearthed, and Hadrian's big Wall (murus and vallum) is still traceable
+in several quarters. A sad spoliation by Pict and Scot followed the
+Roman withdrawal. They scarcely left one stone on another. Then came the
+Saxon supremacy under the good King Egfrith, with the spiritual
+oversight under Saint Cuthbert, to whom and his successors at
+Lindisfarne were bestowed in perpetuity the city with fifteen miles
+around it. But for Egfrith's death fighting the Picts on the far-off
+moorland of Nechtansmere (Dunnichen in Forfarshire) Carlisle might have
+risen early and rapidly to a sure place as one of the leading cities in
+the land. From 685, however, to the Conquest (1066) the place was
+virtually extinct. It was only then that a new epoch arose for the
+broken city as for the whole of England. The Conqueror himself is said
+to have commenced the rebuilding of Carlisle, but the town owes its
+restoration rather to his son William the Red, who, on his return from
+Alnwick, after concluding a peace treaty with the King of Scotland in
+1092, "observed the pleasantness of its situation, and resolved to raise
+it from its ruins." The Castle, the Priory, the once massive city walls,
+were all the work of the Rufus regime, completed by Henry I., who gave
+cathedral dignity to the church at Carlisle. David I., the "Sair Sanct,"
+raided Carlisle in 1136, and kept court for a time within its walls,
+which he heightened. It was at Carlisle that his death took place in
+1153. From that date to the 'Forty-five, Carlisle's history is mainly
+that of a kind of "buffer-state" between the two kingdoms. Few cities
+recall so many martial memories. It was Edward's base of operations in
+his Scottish wars. It was besieged by Wallace in 1298, by Bruce in
+1315--the year after Bannockburn, and again in 1322. Queen Mary's
+captivity at Carlisle in 1568; Buccleuch's daring and gallant rescue of
+Kinmont Willie in 1596, immortalised in the best of the Border ballads;
+the protracted siege by General Leslie in 1644 during the Parliamentary
+War; and the Pretender's short-lived triumph--these are the rest of its
+leading events.
+
+Of the historic Carlisle little is left, the Castle, the Cathedral, and
+the Guildhall being almost the sole relics of a long and notable past.
+Yet how vastly changed the place is from the quiet little Border town of
+a century ago even! Then it had barely ten thousand inhabitants, now
+there are over forty thousand. As the county town of Cumberland, and
+next to Newcastle the greatest railway centre in the north of England,
+its prosperity has grown by leaps and bounds. It is the terminus of no
+fewer than eight different lines, and its busy, never-at-rest Citadel
+Station is known all the world over. Gates and walls have long since
+vanished from "Merrie Carlisle." The streets are wide and airy, and
+altogether it presents a most comfortable and thriving appearance. At
+40, English Street, the chief thoroughfare, Prince Charlie slept for
+four nights during the '45. And from 79 to 83, Castle Street, the corner
+building (now a solicitor's office), between Castle Street and the
+Green-market, Scott led Miss Carpenter to the altar. Carlisle Castle, a
+huge, irregular reddish-brown stone structure, grim and defiant, with
+its almost perfect specimen of a Norman Keep, and battlements frowning
+towards the north, is still a place to see.
+
+But it is the Cathedral which is Carlisle's chief glory. Rising in the
+centre of the city, high above all other buildings except the factory
+chimneys, there is an air of importance about it not altogether
+justifiable. The building is small and not of very great account, the
+reason being that Carlisle was only erected into a See in 1133, and then
+out of Durham. The result was that the parish church was promoted to the
+dignity of a cathedral. Nevertheless, it has several striking
+features--a delightful Early English choir and magnificent east window,
+reputed to be unsurpassed by any other in the kingdom, if indeed in the
+world. From 1092, the date of the original building, to 1400-19, in
+Bishop Strickland's time, when the north transept was restored and the
+central tower rebuilt, and down to the present day, the edifice contains
+every variety of style, from Norman to Perpendicular, with admirable
+specimens of nineteenth century work. Of the original Norman minster the
+only parts remaining are two bays of the nave, the south transept, and
+the piers of the tower. How long the church remained in its pristine
+state it is impossible to say. The first alteration was probably the
+enlargement of the choir, towards the middle and close of the thirteenth
+century, immediately before the great fire of 1292, the worst the
+cathedral has experienced in its four burnings. The work of
+reconstruction after 1292 appears to have been somewhat slow, so slow
+that little was done till the year 1352, when Bishop Welton and his
+successor set themselves in earnest to the task. "The king, the city
+treasury, and the leading families of the neighbourhood contributed
+towards the restoration, in response to the urgent appeals of the
+bishops and to the indulgences issued for the remission of forty days'
+penance to such laity as should by money, materials, or labour,
+contribute to the pious work." Towards the close of the reign of Edward
+III. the renovated pile rose from it ruins. To this period belongs the
+entire east end, with its grand window, the triforium, the carved
+capitals of the arches, and the Decorated windows of the clerestory.
+The ceiling was painted and gilded and panelled, the intersections
+glowing with the armorial bearings of the rich donors by whose
+liberality the work had been carried to completion. The windows were
+filled with stained glass, and the nine lights of the east window with
+figures.
+
+  PLATE 12
+
+  VIEW OF NAWORTH
+
+  CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39 and 74_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In this state the cathedral appears to have remained till 1392, when
+another fire occurred, which destroyed the north transept. A lack of
+funds was again felt, and it was not till the lapse of nine or ten years
+that the restoration was completed. Only about a century later, however,
+Carlisle shared the fate of the monastic institutions, and was
+suppressed, and the church shorn of many of its enrichments. The Civil
+Wars witnessed the worst acts of spoliation, when nearly the whole of
+the nave, the chapter-house and cloisters were destroyed, the materials
+being used for guard-house purposes in the city. The reign of the
+"Puritan patchwork" may then be said to have begun, with plaster
+partitions here and there in horrifying evidence, the niches emptied of
+their treasures, and the fine old stained glass removed from the
+windows--and all, as was declared, in the spirit of "repairing and
+beautifying." "A great, wild country church," is its description about
+this time, "and as it appeared outwardly, so it was inwardly, ne'er
+beautify'd, nor adorn'd one whit." Not till 1853-57 was a general
+restoration, costing L15,000, inaugurated. Both internally and
+externally the edifice underwent a total renovation. Old and crumbled
+portions were pulled down and rebuilt; other parts were fronted anew;
+missing ornaments were supplied; ugly doorways were blocked up, and
+one grand entrance made befitting the church. The renaissance was
+complete as it was judicious. There was just sufficient of the old left
+to show the original structure, and sufficient of the new imparted to
+save the venerable fane from crumbling to pieces. Externally, the east
+is certainly the finest part of the building, with its unrivalled
+window--58 feet high and 32-1/2 feet wide, of nine lights, gracefully
+proportioned, the head filled with the most exquisite tracery-work,
+comprising no fewer than 263 circles. A uniquely ornamented gable, with
+a row of crosses on either shoulder, and a large cross at the apex,
+completes a highly finished centre. On either side stands out, in
+massive relief, a majestic buttress, containing full length statues of
+St. Peter, St. Paul, St James, and St. John, above which are light and
+elegant pinnacles. These great buttresses are flanked by the lesser ones
+of the aisles, tapering upwards with chastely carved spires--the whole
+forming an eastern front of great beauty and richness. The main entrance
+by a new doorway in the south transept is a triumph of the sculptor's
+skill. The great tower, 112 feet high, has been thoroughly renovated,
+and much of its former ornamentation restored. Of the interior, the nave
+is in length 39 feet, and in width about 60 feet. The Scots are said to
+have destroyed 100 feet of it in 1645, but that is quite uncertain. It
+has never been rebuilt, and has a serious effect on the general
+proportions, inducing a feeling of want of balance. Up to 1870 the nave
+was used as the parish church of St. Mary, and it was here--close by the
+great Norman columns--that Sir Walter Scott was married to Charlotte
+Carpenter, on December 24th, 1797. The spot might well be indicated by a
+small memorial brass. The richly-decorated choir, in no respect inferior
+to that of any other English cathedral, is 134 feet long, 71 feet broad,
+and 75 feet high. The warm red of the sandstone, the blue roof powdered
+with golden stars, the great east window filled with stained glass, and
+the dark oak of the stalls, make up a picture that enforces attention
+before the architectural details can receive their due admiration.
+
+The Cathedral contains several interesting monuments. Here is the tomb
+of Archdeacon Paley (1805), author of the "Evidences of Christianity"
+and "Horae Paulinae," both written at Carlisle, and the richly-carved
+pulpit inscribed to his memory. There are tablets to Robert Anderson
+(1833), the "Cumberland Bard;" to John Heysham, M.D. (1834), the
+statistician, and compiler of the "Carlisle Tables of Mortality;" George
+Moore (1876), the philanthropist; M. L. Watson (1847), the sculptor;
+Dean Cranmer (1848), Canon Harcourt (1870), and Dean Close (1882).
+Several military monuments are in evidence. One of the windows
+commemorates the five children of Archbishop Tait (then Dean), who died
+between March 6th and April 9th, 1856. Recumbent figures of Bishop
+Waldegrave (1869), Bishop Harvey Goodwin (1891) and Dean Close are by
+Acton Adams, Hamo Thorneycroft, R.A., and H. H. Armistead, R.A.,
+respectively. The older altar-tombs and brasses to Bishop Bell, Bishop
+Everdon, and Prior Stenhouse, should not be overlooked, and attention
+may be drawn also to the quaint series of fifth-century paintings from
+the monkish legends of St. Augustine, St. Anthony, and St. Cuthbert, and
+to the misereres of the stalls.
+
+Scarcely less interesting than Carlisle itself is the immediate
+neighbourhood of the Border city. And with what sterling picturesqueness
+does it appeal to us! One does not wonder that Turner and others found
+some of their masterpieces here. A wondrously historic countryside, too,
+is all this pleasantly-rolling tableland, mile upon mile to the
+Liddesdale and Eskdale heights with the Langholm Monument fairly visible
+as a rule, and sometimes even the famous Repentance Tower opposite
+Hoddom Kirk. Within twenty miles or so of Carlisle, up through the old
+Waste and Debateable Lands, or over into the romantic Vale of the
+Irthing, the dividing-point betwixt Cumberland and Northumberland, the
+district is full of the most fascinating material for the geographer and
+the historian. It is impossible to do more than mention a few of its
+memory-moving names. At Burghby-Sands, Edward I., "the Hammer of the
+Scots," having offered up his litter before the high altar at Carlisle,
+vowing to reduce Scotland to the condition of a mere English province,
+was forced to succumb to a grimmer adversary than lay anywhere beyond
+the Solway. Bowness-by-the-Sea was the western terminus of the Roman
+Wall. Arthuret has its name from the "Flower of Kings," one of whose
+twelve battles is said to have been fought there. Archie Armstrong,
+jester to King James VI., lies buried in its churchyard. At Longtown, on
+the Esk, the Jacobite troops forded the river "shouther to shouther," as
+Lady Nairne's lyric has it, dancing reels on the bank till they had
+dried themselves. Netherby, the _locale_ of "Young Lochinvar," Lady
+Heron's song in "Marmion," is in the near neighbourhood. So are
+Gilnockie or the Hollows, Johnie Armstrong's home, and Gretna Green,
+that once so popular but now defunct shrine of Venus. All this once
+bleak and barren bog-land is under generous cultivation now to a large
+extent, stretching from the Sark to the Esk, and eastward to Canonbie
+Lea; it was the treacherously Debateable, or No Man's Land of
+moss-trooping times, the most troubled and unsafe period of Border
+history. Solway Moss, some seven miles in circumference, is not likely
+to be forgotten--by Scotsmen, at any rate. It was the disastrous Rout of
+the Solway which hastened James V.'s death from a broken heart.
+
+  PLATE 13
+
+  VIEW OF LANERCOST
+  PRIORY
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 36 and 74_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Irthing valley is replete with historical remains and literary
+associations. Over there, to the north of Bewcastle (Beuth's Castle),
+there is a celebrated Runic Cross nearly fifteen feet high, of the
+Caedmon order, similar to that at Ruthwell. The Irthing flows through
+the wide moorish wilderness known as Spade-Adam, or the Waste, crosses
+the Roman Wall at Gilsland, thence courses amongst some of the richest
+scenery in Cumberland until it meets the Eden. Gilsland Spa has long
+been noted for the excellence of its waters and the remarkable salubrity
+of the district. Scott stayed at the old Shaw's Hotel in July, 1797, not
+the present palatial Convalescent Home (as it now is) which was rebuilt
+after a fire about fifty years since. Charlotte Carpenter was a guest at
+Wardrew House, directly opposite. They met often, and the result was
+love and marriage. On a huge boulder by the banks of the Irthing, where
+the glen comes to its steepest and wears its most enchanting aspect,
+Scott is said to have "popped the question," and the "Kissing Bush"
+where the compact was sealed is also pointed out close by. At Gilsland
+it is interesting to recall that one is to some extent in "Guy Mannering
+Land." A small private dwelling adjoining the Methodist Chapel claims to
+stand on the site of the notorious Mumps Ha', "a hedge ale-house, where
+the Border farmers of either country often stopped to refresh themselves
+and their nags on their way to and from the fairs and trysts in
+Cumberland." It was there that young Harry Bertram first met Dandie
+Dinmont and the weird figure of Meg Merrilies, who, by the way, was not
+buried at Upper Denton, as the guide-books say. It was the treacherous
+landlady, Meg Mumps or Margaret Carrick, who is there interred. The more
+important Meg--the real heroine of the story--was drowned in the Eden at
+Carlisle. Gilsland is a centre for some delightful excursions. Much of
+the Roman Wall may be visited from this centre, its two chief stations
+Borcovicus (Housesteads) and Burdoswald being within easy distances. The
+little Northumberland lakes, and the prettiest of them all, Crag Loch,
+the Nine Nicks of Thirlwall, seen from the Shaws with fine effect,
+Thirlwall and Blenkinsop Castles, Haltwhistle Church, all to the east,
+are objects of deep and abiding interest. Westward are Burdoswald--the
+Roman Amboglanna--covering an area of 5-1/2 acres, and overlooking a
+singularly graceful bend of the Irthing (not unlike that on the Tweed at
+Bemersyde); Lanercost Priory[A], founded by Robert de Vaux about 1166,
+frequently plundered by the Scots, and used now partly as the parish
+church and burial-place of the Carlisle family; Naworth,[B] the historic
+seat of the Earl of Carlisle, whose ancestor, Lord William Howard, was
+the famous "Belted Will" of Border story, who died in 1640:--
+
+    "His Bilboa blade, by marchmen felt,
+    Hung in a broad and studded belt;
+    Hence, in rude phrase, the Borderers still
+    Call noble Howard, 'Belted Will,'"--
+
+and Triermain Castle, all but vanished, whence Scott's "Bridal of
+Triermain"--
+
+    "Where is the Maiden of mortal strain,
+    That may match with the Baron of Triermain?
+    She must be lovely, and constant and kind,
+    Holy and pure, and humble of mind,
+    Blithe of cheer, and gentle of mood,
+    Courteous, and generous, and noble of blood--
+    Lovely as the sun's first ray,
+    When it breaks the clouds of an April day,
+    Constant and true as the widow'd dove,
+    Kind as a minstrel that sings of love."
+
+[A] Lanercost is a fine example of Early English. The church consists of
+a nave with north aisle, a transept with aisles on the east side used as
+monumental chapels and choir, a chancel, and a low square tower. The
+nave is used as the Parish Church. The crypt contains several Roman
+altars from Burdoswald, etc. Some of the inscriptions are of great
+interest.
+
+[B] Naworth is said to be one of the oldest and best specimens existing
+of a baronial residence. It is associated largely with the turbulent
+times of Border warfare. "Belted Will," a terror to all marauders, is
+its best-known name, "a singular lover of venerable antiquities, and
+learned withal," as Camden describes him. The British Museum contains
+some of his letters, and his library is still preserved at Naworth.
+"Belted Will's" Tower, to the north-east of the Castle, is the most
+notable feature at Naworth.
+
+
+
+
+III. THE TWEED AND ITS ASSOCIATIONS.
+
+
+"Both are good, the streams of north and south, but he who has given his
+heart to the Tweed as did Tyro in Homer to the Enipeus, will never
+change his love." So does Mr. Andrew Lang remind us of his affection for
+Tweedside and the Border. Elsewhere he speaks of Tweed shrining the
+music of his cradle song, and the requiem he would most prefer--may that
+day be long in coming!
+
+            "No other hymn
+    I'd choose, nor gentler requiem dear
+    Than Tweed's, that through death's twilight dim,
+    Mourned in the latest Minstrel's ear."
+
+Lockhart's description of Sir Walter's death-scene, so touching in its
+very simplicity, has never been matched in literary biography. From the
+first years of his life, Scott was wedded to the Tweed. It was his
+ancestral stream. And it stood for all that was best and fairest in
+Border story. It was by the Tweed that he won his greatest triumphs, and
+faced his greatest defeats, where he spent the happiest as well as the
+most strenuous period of his career. So that, to breathe his last breath
+by its pleasant banks--a desire oft repeated--was as natural as it was
+keen and eager. We know how at length he was borne back to Abbotsford,
+the house of his dreams, and how on one of those ideal days during the
+early autumn that crowning wish was realised; "It was a beautiful day,
+so warm that every window was wide open, and so perfectly still that the
+sound of all others most delicious to his ear--the gentle ripple of the
+Tweed over its pebbles--was distinctly audible as we knelt around the
+bed and his eldest son kissed and closed his eyes."
+
+Of course, it is owing, in great measure, to Scott that the Tweed has so
+exalted a place in literature. To speak of the Tweed at once recalls
+Scott and all that the Tweed meant to him. Both in a sense are names
+inseparable and synonymous. It is almost entirely for Scott's sake that
+Tweedside has become one of the world-Meccas. What Scott did for the
+Tweed--the Border--renders it (to speak reverently) holy ground for
+ever. Hence the affection with which the world looks on Scott--as a
+patriot,--as one who has helped to create his country, and as a great
+literary magnet attracting thousands to it, and as the medium of some of
+the most pleasurable of mental experiences. Of the great names on
+Scotland's roll of honour, Scott, even more than all of them (even more
+than Burns), has wedded his country to the very best of humankind
+everywhere. But do not let us forget that Tweed had its lovers many
+before Scott's day. Burns's pilgrimage to the Border was a picturesque
+episode in his poetic history. "Yarrow and Tweed to monie a tune owre
+Scotland rings," he wrote, and other lines represent a warm admiration
+for the district. Tweed was a "wimpling stately" stream, and there were
+"Eden scenes on crystal Jed" scarcely less fascinating. James Thomson,
+the poet of the "Seasons," a Tweedsider, though the fact is often
+forgotten, pays grateful homage to the Tweed as the "pure parent-stream,
+whose pastoral banks first heard my Doric reed." Allan Ramsay and Robert
+Crawford, West-country men both, came early under the spell of the
+fair river. Crawford's lines are painted with the usual exaggeration of
+the period:
+
+    "What beauties does Flora disclose!
+      How sweet are her smiles upon Tweed!
+    Yet Mary's, still sweeter than those,
+      Both nature and fancy exceed.
+    No daisy, nor sweet blushing rose,
+      Not all the gay flowers of the field,
+    Not Tweed, gliding gently through those,
+      Such beauty and pleasure does yield."
+
+Hamilton of Bangour, best known for his "Braes of Yarrow," has an autumn
+and winter description of Tweedside which naturally suggests the like
+picture by Scott in the Introduction to Canto I. of "Marmion," and it is
+more than probable that Sir Walter had this in his mind when penning his
+own more perfect lines.
+
+  PLATE 14
+
+  VIEW OF BEWCASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 44, 67, 72_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Robert Fergusson--Burns's "elder brother in the Muses," had his
+imagination fired by the memories of the Border, and was one of the
+first to celebrate that land over which lies the light of so much poetic
+fancy:
+
+    "The Arno and the Tiber lang
+    Hae run full clear in Roman sang;
+    But, save the reverence o' schools!
+    They're baith but lifeless dowy pools,
+    Dought they compare wi' bonny Tweed,
+    As clear as ony lammer-bead?"
+
+Wordsworth, too, sang of the "gentle Tweed, and the green silent
+pastures," though his winsome Three Yarrows is the tie that most endears
+him to the Lowland hearts. Since Scott's day the voices in praise of
+Tweed have been legion. "Who, with a heart and a soul tolerably at ease
+within him, could fail to be happy, hearing as we do now the voice of
+the Tweed, singing his pensive twilight song to the few faint stars that
+have become visible in heaven?" says John Wilson in his rollicking
+"Streams" essay (no "crusty Christopher" there, at any rate). Thomas Tod
+Stoddart, king of angling rhymers,
+
+            "Angled far and angled wide,
+    On Fannich drear, by Luichart's side;
+    Across dark Conan's current,"
+
+and all over Scotland, but found not another stream to match with the
+Tweed:
+
+            "Dearer than all these to me
+    Is sylvan Tweed; each tower and tree
+      That in its vale rejoices;
+    Dearer the streamlets one and all
+    That blend with its Eolian brawl
+      Their own enamouring voices!"
+
+Remember, too, Dr. John Brown's exquisite Tweed's Well meditation, a
+prose sermon to ponder over any Sabbath, and Ruskin's homely reverie--"I
+can never hear the whispering and sighing of the Tweed among his
+pebbles, but it brings back to me the song of my nurse as we used to
+cross by Coldstream Bridge, from the south, in our happy days--
+
+    "For Scotland, my darling, lies full in my view,
+    With her barefooted lasses, and mountains so blue."
+
+One thinks also of George Borrow's fascination for the Scottish Border,
+when he asks ("Lavengro") "Which of the world's streams can Tweed envy,
+with its beauty and renown?" and of Thomas Aird's pathetic
+retrospect--"the ever-dear Tweed, whose waters flow continually through
+my heart, and make me often greet in my lonely evenings." Nor do we
+forget John Veitch, that truest Tweedsman of his time, always musing on
+the Tweed, never at home but beside it, and of whose Romance and History
+there has been no abler exponent.
+
+Of the name Tweed itself, the meaning and origin are uncertain, and it
+is hopeless to dogmatize on the subject except to say that there is an
+apparent connection with the Cymric Tay, Taff, Teith, and Teviot--more
+properly "Teiott," the common pronunciation above Hawick. Mr. Johnston
+("Place-Names of Scotland") traces it to the Celtic _twyad_--"a hemming
+in"--from "_twy_ to check or bind," which is a not unlikely derivation.
+As to the source of the Tweed there is the curious paradox that what
+passes for its source is not the real _fons et origo_ of the stream.
+Poetically, the Tweed is said to take its rise in the tiny Tweed's Well
+among the Southern Highlands, 1250 feet above sea level, and close to
+where the marches of Peeblesshire, Lanarkshire, and Dumfriesshire meet.
+But strictly speaking, the correct source is the Cor or Corse Burn, a
+little higher up, which, dancing its way to the glen beneath, receives
+the outflow of the Well as a sort of first tributary. For purposes of
+romance, however, Tweed's Well will always be reckoned as the source, as
+indeed it must have been so regarded ages ago. The likelihood is that
+Tweed's Well was one of the ancient holy wells common to many parts of
+Scotland. And since tradition speaks of a Mungo's Well somewhere in
+these solitudes, the probability is that we have it here in the heart of
+these silent lonely hills. There is the tradition of a cross, too, at or
+near Tweed's Well, borne out in the place-name Corse, which, we know,
+is good Scots for Cross. That such a symbol of the ancient faith stood
+here long since "to remind travellers of their Redeemer and to guide
+them withal across these desolate moors," is more than a mere
+picturesque legend. It is a prolific watershed this from which Tweed
+starts its seaward race. South and west, Annan and Clyde bend their way
+to the Solway and the Atlantic, as the quaint quatrain has it:
+
+    "Annan, Tweed, and Clyde
+    Rise a' oot o' ae hillside,
+    Tweed ran, Annan wan,
+    Clyde brak his neck owre Corra Linn."
+
+Tweed turns its face to the north, and running for the most part, as old
+Pennecuik puts it, "with a soft yet trotting stream," it pursues a
+course of slightly over a hundred miles, and drains a basin of no less
+than 1870 square miles, a larger area than any other Scottish river
+except the Tay.
+
+  PLATE 15
+
+  VIEW OF MELROSE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 23, 35, 39, 60, 61, 89, 90, 91, 123_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Tweed's Well lies in the bosom of solemn, bare hills. There is nothing
+attractive about the spot. Grey moorlands, riddled with innumerable inky
+peat-bogs, the whaups crying as Stevenson heard them in his dreams, and
+the bleat of an occasional sheep are the chief characteristics. There is
+little heather, and the hills are hardly so shapely as their neighbours
+further down the valley. A first glance is disappointing, but the
+memories of the place are compensation enough. For what a stirring place
+it must have been in the early centuries! Here, as tradition asserts,
+the pagan bard Merlin was converted to Christianity through the
+preaching of the Glasgow Saint Mungo. Here Michael Scot, the "wondrous
+wizard," pursued his mysteries. And even the Flower of Kings himself
+wandered amongst those wilds, "of fresh aventours dreaming." One of his
+twelve battles is claimed for the locality. More historic, perhaps, is
+the picture of the good Sir James of Douglas (red-handed from dirking
+the Comyn) plighting his troth to the Bruce at Ericstane Brae, close to
+Tweed's Well, which latter spot, by the way, Dr. John Brown
+characteristically describes in one of his shorter "Horae" papers.
+Readers of the "Enterkin" also will remember his reference to the
+mail-coach tragedy of 1831, when MacGeorge and his companion,
+Goodfellow, perished in the snow in a heroic attempt to get the bags
+through to Tweedshaws. At Tweedsmuir, (the name of the parish--disjoined
+from Drumelzier in 1643)--eight miles down, the valley opens somewhat,
+and vegetation properly begins. Of Tweedsmuir Kirk--on the peninsula
+between Tweed and Talla--Lord Cockburn said that it had the prettiest
+situation in Scotland. John Hunter, a Covenant martyr, sleeps in its
+bonnie green kirk-knowe--the only Covenant grave in the Border Counties
+outside Dumfries and Galloway. Talla Linns recalls the conventicle
+mentioned in the "Heart of Midlothian," at which Scott makes Davie Deans
+a silent but much-impressed spectator. In the wild Gameshope Glen, close
+by, Donald Cargill and James Renwick, and others lay oft in hiding. "It
+will be a bloody night this in Gemsop," are the opening words of Hogg's
+fine Covenant tale, the "Brownie of Bodsbeck." The Talla Valley contains
+the picturesque new lake whence Edinburgh draws its augmented water
+supply. Young Hay of Talla was one of Bothwell's "Lambs," and suffered
+death for the Darnley murder. At the Beild--regaining the Tweed--Dr.
+John Ker, one of the foremost pulpiteers of his generation, was born in
+1819. Oliver Castle was the home of the Frasers, Lords of Tweeddale
+before they were Lords of Lovat. The Crook Inn was a noted "howff" in
+the angling excursions of Christopher North and the Ettrick Shepherd.
+Mr. Lang thinks that possibly the name suggested the "Cleikum Inn" of
+"St. Ronan's Well." At the Crook, William Black ends his "Adventures of
+a Phaeton" with the climax of all good novels, an avowal of love and a
+happy engagement. Polmood, near by, was the scene of Hogg's lugubrious
+"Bridal of Polmood," seldom read now, one imagines. Kingledoors in two
+of its place-names preserves the memory of Cuthbert and Cristin, the
+Saint and his hermit-disciple. Stanhope was a staunch Jacobite holding,
+one of its lairds being the infamous Murray of Broughton, Prince
+Charlie's secretary, the Judas of the cause. Murray, by the way, was
+discovered in hiding after Culloden at Polmood, the abode of his
+brother-in-law, Michael Hunter. Linkumdoddie has been immortalized in
+Burns's versicles beginning, "Willie Wastle dwalt on Tweed"--a study in
+idiomatic untranslateable Scots. Here is the picture of Willie's wife--a
+philological puzzle.
+
+    "She's bow-hough'd, she's hein-shinn'd,
+    Ae limpin leg a hand-breed shorter;
+    She's twisted right, she's twisted left,
+    To balance fair in ilka quarter;
+    She has a hump upon her breast,
+    The twin o' that upon her shouther;
+    Sic a wife as Willie had,
+    I wadna gie a button for her.
+
+    "Auld bandrons by the ingle sits,
+    An' wi' her loof her face a-washin';
+    But Willie's wife is nae sae trig
+    She dights her grunzie wi' a hushion;
+    Her walie nieves like midden-creels,
+    Her face wad 'fyle the Logan Water;
+    Sic a wife as Willie had,
+    I wadna gie a button for her."
+
+At Drumelzier Castle the turbulent, tyrannical Tweedies reigned in their
+day of might. Of their ghostly origin, the Introduction to the
+"Betrothed" supplies the key. They were constantly at feud with their
+neighbours, specially the Veitches, and were in the Rizzio murder. See
+their history (a work of genuine local interest) written quite recently
+by Michael Forbes Tweedie, a London scion of the clan. In the same
+neighbourhood, the fragment of Tinnis Castle (there is a Tinnis on
+Yarrow, too,) juts out from its bold bluff, not unlike a robber's eyrie
+on the Rhine. Curiously, this is a reputed Ossian scene (see the poem,
+"Calthon and Colmal.") The "blue Teutha," is the Tweed--"Dunthalmo's
+town," Drumelzier. Merlin's Grave, near Drumelzier Kirk, should not be
+forgotten. Bower's "Scotichronicon" narrates the circumstances of his
+death: "On the same day which he foretold he met his death; for certain
+shepherds of a chief of a country called Meldred set upon him with
+stones and staves, and, stumbling in his agony, he fell from a high bank
+of the Tweed, near the town of Drumelzier (the ridge of Meldred), upon a
+sharp stake that the fishers had placed in the waters, and which pierced
+his body through. He was buried near the spot where he expired."
+
+    "Ah! well he loved the Powsail Burn (_i.e._, the burn of the willows)
+    Ah! well he loved the Powsail glen;
+    And there, beside his fountain clear,
+    He soothed the frenzy of his brain.
+
+    Ah! Merlin, restless was thy life,
+    As the bold stream whose circles sweep
+    Mid rocky boulders to its close
+    By thy lone grave, in calm so deep.
+
+    For no one ever loved the Tweed
+    Who was not loved by it in turn;
+    It smiled in gentle Merlin's face,
+    It soughs in sorrow round his bourn."
+
+A prophecy of Thomas the Rhymer--
+
+    "When Tweed and Powsail meet at Merlin's Grave,
+    England and Scotland shall one monarch have,"
+
+is affirmed to have been literally fulfilled on the coronation day of
+James VI. and I. Passing on, we reach the resplendent Dawyck Woods. Here
+are some of the finest larches in the kingdom, the first to be planted
+in Britain, having that honour done them by the great Linnaeus himself,
+it is said. Stobo--semi-Norman and Saxon--was the _plebania_ or
+mother-kirk of half the county. Here lies all that is mortal of Robert
+Hogg, a talented nephew of James Hogg. He was the friend and amanuensis
+of both Scott and Lockhart, whom he assisted in the _Quarterly_.
+Possessed of a keen literary sense, he would almost certainly have taken
+a high place in literature but for the consumption which cut short his
+promising career. (See "Life of Scott," vol. ix). At Happrew, in Stobo
+parish, Wallace is said to have suffered defeat from the English in
+1304. One of the most perfect specimens (recently explored) of a
+Roman Camp is in the Lyne Valley, to the left, a little above the
+Kirk of Lyne. On a height overlooking the Tarth and Lyne frowns the
+massive pile of Drochil, planned by the Red Earl of Morton, who never
+lived to occupy it, or to finish it, indeed, the "Maiden," in 1581,
+cutting short his pleasures, his treacheries and hypocrisies. Now we
+touch the Black Dwarf's Country--in the Manor Valley, to the right.
+Barns Tower, a very complete peel specimen, stands sentinel at the
+entrance to this "sweetest glen of all the South." It is around Barns
+that John Buchan's "John Burnet of Barns" centres. The Black Dwarf's
+grave is at Manor Kirk, and the cottage associated with his misanthropic
+career is also pointed out. Scott, in 1797, visited Manor (Hallyards) at
+his friend Ferguson's, and foregathered with David Ritchie, the
+prototype of one of the least successful and most tedious of his
+characters. (See William Chambers's account of the visit). St. Gordian's
+Cross, mentioned in a previous chapter, is further up the valley, where
+also are the ruins of Posso, a place-name in the "Bride of Lammermoor."
+Presently we come to Neidpath Castle, dominating Peebles, the key to the
+Upper Tweed fastnesses. When or by whom it was built is unknown. In
+1795, it was held by "Old Q," fourth Duke of Queensberry. Wordsworth's
+sonnet on the spoliation of its magnificent woods (an act done to spite
+the heir of entail) stigmatises for all time the memory of one of the
+worst reprobates in history.
+
+  PLATE 16
+
+  MELROSE AND THE
+  EILDONS FROM BEMERSYDE
+  HILL: SCOTT'S
+  FAVOURITE VIEW
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 89 and 123_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Both Scott and Campbell have sung of the unhappy Maid of Neidpath spent
+with grief and disease, waiting her lover on the Castle walls, and
+beholding him ride past all unconscious of her identity.
+
+    "He came--he passed--a heedless gaze,
+      As o'er some stranger glancing;
+    Her welcome, spoke in faltering phrase,
+      Lost in his courser's prancing--
+    The Castle arch whose hollow tone
+      Returns each whisper spoken,
+    Could scarcely catch the feeble moan
+      Which told her heart was broken."
+
+The literary associations of Peebles--a charming township--are
+outstanding. William and Robert Chambers (founders of _Chambers's
+Journal_) were natives. So were Thomas Smibert and John Veitch, poets
+and essayists both. Mungo Park (a Gideon Gray prototype) was the town's
+surgeon for a time--an eternal longing for Africa in his soul. "Meg
+Dods," the best landlady in fiction, was one of its heroines. And
+"Peblis to the Play," probably by James I., is a Scots classic. Traquair
+is poetic ground every foot of it. At its "bonnie bush" how many singers
+have caught inspiration from Crawford of Drumsoy in 1725, to Principal
+Shairp in our own day! Shairp's lyric may well be quoted in full. It is
+by far the finest contribution to modern Border minstrelsy. "Thank ye
+again for this exquisite song; I would rather have been the man to write
+it than Gladstone in all his greatness and goodness," was the exuberant
+"Rab" Brown's compliment to the author:
+
+      "Will ye gang wi' me and fare
+      To the bush aboon Traquair?
+    Owre the high Minchmuir we'll up and awa',
+      This bonny simmer noon,
+      While the sun shines fair aboon,
+    And the licht sklents saftly doun on holm and ha'.
+
+      "And what would you do there,
+      At the bush aboon Traquair?
+    A lang dreich road, ye had better let it be;
+      Save some auld skrunts o' birk
+      I' the hillside lirk,
+    There's nocht i' the warld for man to see.
+
+      "But the blithe lilt o' that air,
+      'The Bush aboon Traquair,'
+    I need nae mair, it's eneuch for me;
+      Owre my cradle its sweet chime,
+      Cam' soughin' frae auld time,
+    Sae tide what may, I'll awa' and see.
+
+      "And what saw ye there
+      At the bush aboon Traquair?
+    Or what did ye hear that was worth your heed?
+      I heard the cushies croon
+      Thro' the gowden afternoon
+    And the Quair burn singing doun to the Vale o' Tweed.
+
+      "And birks saw I three or four,
+      Wi' grey moss bearded owre,--
+    The last that are left o' the birken shaw,
+      Whar mony a simmer e'en
+      Fond lovers did convene,
+    Thae bonny, bonny gloamins that are lang awa'.
+
+      "Frae mony a but and ben,
+      By muirland, holm, and glen,
+    They cam' ane hour to spen' on the greenwood swaird;
+      But lang hae lad an' lass I
+      Been lying 'neth the grass,
+    The green, green grass o' Traquair kirkyard.
+
+      "They were blest beyond compare,
+      When they held their trysting there,
+    Among thae greenest hills shone on by the sun;
+      And then they wan a rest,
+      The lownest and the best,
+    I' Traquair kirkyard when a' was dune.
+
+      "Now the birks to dust may rot,
+      Names o' lovers be forgot,
+    Nae lads and lasses there ony mair convene;
+      But the blithe lilt o' yon air
+      Keeps the bush aboon Traquair,
+    And the love that ance was there, aye fresh and green."
+
+  PLATE 17
+
+  DRYBURGH ABBEY AND
+  SCOTT'S TOMB
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 35, 39, 91, 92, 103_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Traquair House--possibly Scott's Tully-Veolan, "pallid, forlorn,
+stricken all o'er with eld," claims to be the oldest inhabited house in
+Scotland. It certainly looks it. The great gate, flanked with the huge
+Bradwardine Bears, has not been opened since the '45. There seems no
+reason to question the legend. It is not so "foolish" as Mr. Lang
+supposes. Innerleithen, Scott's "St. Ronan's," is near at hand, and the
+peel of Elibank--a mere shell. Harden's marriage to Muckle-mou'ed Meg
+Murray was not quite accounted for in the traditional way, however,--a
+choice between the laird's dule-tree and the laird's unlovely daughter.
+The legend is not uncommon to German folk-lore. At Ashestiel, thrice
+renowned, Scott spent the happiest years of his life (1804-1812),
+writing "Marmion," the "Lady of the Lake," and the first draft of
+"Waverley." In many respects the place is more important to students of
+Scott than Abbotsford itself. Yet for a thousand who rush to Abbotsford
+only a very few find their way up here. Yair, a Pringle house, and
+Fairnalee, comfortable little demesnes, lie further down the Tweed. At
+the latter, Alison Rutherford wrote her version of the "Flowers of the
+Forest"--"I've seen the smiling of Fortune beguiling." Abbotsford was
+Cartley Hole first--not Clarty--which is a mere vulgar play on the
+original. From a small villa about 1811 it has grown to the present
+noble pile. After Scott's day, Mr. Hope Scott did much for the place.
+But it is of Sir Walter that one thinks. What a strenuous life was his
+here! What love he lavished on the very ground that was dear to him--in
+a double sense! And what longing for home during that vain sojourn
+under Italian skies! "To Abbotsford; let us to Abbotsford!"--a desire
+now echoed on ten thousand tongues year by year from all ends of the
+earth. Behind Abbotsford are the Eildons, the "Delectable Mountains" of
+Washington Irving's visit, "three crests against a saffron sky" always
+in vision the wide Border over. Scott said he could stand on the Eildons
+and point out forty-three places famous in war and verse. "Yonder," he
+said, "is Lammermoor and Smailholm; and there you have Galashiels, and
+Torwoodlee, and Gala Water; and in that direction you see Teviotdale and
+the Braes of Yarrow, and Ettrick stream winding along like a silver
+thread to throw itself into the Tweed. It may be pertinacity, but to my
+eye these grey hills, and all this wild Border Country have beauties
+peculiar to themselves. When I have been for some time in the rich
+scenery about Edinburgh which is like ornamented garden land, I begin to
+wish myself back again among my own honest grey hills; and if I did not
+see the heather at least once a year, I think I should die." Melrose is
+the "Kennaquhair" of the "Monastery" and the "Abbot." Its glory, of
+course, is its Abbey, unsurpassed in the beauty of death, but all grace
+fled from its environment. Were it possible to transplant the Abbey
+together with its rich associations to the site of the original
+foundation by the beautiful bend at Bemersyde, Melrose would sit
+enthroned peerless among the shrines of our northern land. Within
+Melrose Abbey, near to the High Altar, the Bruce's heart rests well--its
+fitful flutterings o'er. Here, too, lie the brave Earl Douglas, hero of
+Chevy Chase; Liddesdale's dark Knight--another Douglas; Evers and
+Latoun, the English commanders at Ancrum Moor, that ran so deadly red
+with the blood of their countrymen; and, according to Sir Walter,
+Michael Scot--
+
+    "Buried on St. Michael's night,
+    When the bell toll'd one, and the moon shone bright,
+    Whose chamber was dug among the dead,
+    When the floor of the chancel was stained red."
+
+One is not surprised at Scott's love for Melrose. As the grandest
+ecclesiastical ruin in the country, it must be seen to be understood.
+Mere description counts for little in dealing with such a subject. Every
+window, arch, cloister, corbel, keystone, door-head and buttress of this
+excellent example of mediaeval Gothic is a study in itself--all
+elaborately carved, yet no two alike. The sculpture is unequalled both
+in symmetry and in variety, embracing some of the loveliest specimens of
+floral tracery and the most quaint and grotesque representations
+imaginable. The great east oriel is its most imposing feature. But the
+south doorway and the chaste wheeled window above it are equally superb.
+For what is regarded as the finest view of the building, let us stand
+for a little at the north-east corner, not far from the grave of Scott's
+faithful factotum, Tom Purdie. Here the _coup d'oeil_ is very
+striking; and the contour of the ruins is realised to its full. Or if it
+be preferred, let us look at the pile beneath the lee light o' the
+moon--the conditions recommended in the "Lay."
+
+    "If thou would'st view fair Melrose aright,
+    Go visit it by the pale moonlight;
+    For the gay beams of lightsome day
+    Gild, but to flout, the ruins grey.
+    When the broken arches are black in night,
+    And each shafted oriel glimmers white,
+    When the cold light's uncertain shower
+    Streams on the ruined central tower;
+    When buttress and buttress, alternately,
+    Seem framed of ebon and ivory;
+    When silver edges the imagery,
+    And the scrolls that teach thee to live and die;
+    When distant Tweed is heard to rave,
+    And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave,
+    Then go--but go alone the while--
+    Then view St. David's ruined pile;
+    And, home returning, soothly swear
+    Was never scene so sad and fair!"
+
+Three inscriptions--one inside, two in the churchyard, are worth halting
+by. "HEIR LYIS THE RACE OF YE HOVS OF ZAIR," touches many hearts with
+its simple pathos. "The Lord is my Light," is the expressive text
+(self-chosen) on Sir David Brewster's tomb--the greatest master of
+optics in his day; and the third, covering the remains of a former
+Melrose schoolmaster was frequently on the lips of Scott:
+
+    "The earth goeth on the earth,
+      Glist'ring like gold,
+    The earth goes to the earth
+      Sooner than it wold.
+    The earth builds on the earth
+      Castles and towers,
+    The earth says to the earth
+      All shall be ours."
+
+If half the grace of Melrose is lost by reason of its environment, the
+situation of Dryburgh is queenly enough. It is assuredly the most
+picturesque monastic ruin in Great Britain. Scott's is the all-absorbing
+name, and as a matter of fact he would himself have become by
+inheritance the laird of Dryburgh, but for the financial folly of a
+spendthrift grand-uncle. "The ancient patrimony," he tells us, "was sold
+for a trifle, and my father, who might have purchased it with ease, was
+dissuaded by my grandfather from doing so, and thus we have nothing left
+of Dryburgh but the right of stretching our bones there." So here, the
+two Sir Walters, the two Lady Scotts, and Lockhart, await the breaking
+light of morn. Dryburgh, be it noted, is in Berwickshire--in Mertoun
+parish, where (at Mertoun House) Scott wrote the "Eve of St. John." Not
+far off is Sandyknowe (not Smailholm, as it is generally designated)
+Tower, the scene of the ballad, and the cradle of Scott's childhood,
+where there awoke within him the first real consciousness of life, and
+where he had his first impressions of the wondrously enchanted land that
+lay within the comparatively small circle of the Border Country. Ruined
+Roxburgh, between Tweed's and Teviot's flow, and the palatial Floors
+Castle represent the best of epochs old and new, and even more than in
+Scott's halcyon school days is Kelso the "Queen of the South Countrie."
+Coldstream, lying in sylvan loveliness on the left bank of the Tweed--a
+noble river here--has been the scene of many a memorable crossing from
+both countries from the time of Edward I. to the Covenanting struggle.
+So near the Border, Coldstream had at one time a considerable notoriety
+for its runaway marriages, the most notable of which was Lord Brougham's
+in 1819. Within an easy radius of Coldstream are Wark Castle, the mere
+site of it rather--where in 1344 Edward III. instituted the Order of the
+Garter; Twizel Bridge, with its single Gothic arch, cleverly crossed
+by Surrey and his men (it is the identical arch) at Flodden, that
+darkest of all dark fields for Scotland,
+
+    "Where shivered was fair Scotland's spear,
+    And broken was her shield."
+
+Of Norham Castle, frowning like Carlisle, to the North, and set down as
+it were to over-awe a kingdom, Scott's description is always the best.
+Ladykirk Church was built by James IV. in gratitude for his escape from
+drowning while fording the Tweed. Last of all, we reach Berwick, at one
+period the chief seaport in Scotland--a "second Alexandria," as was
+said, now the veriest shadow of its former self. Christianized towards
+the close of the fourth century, according to Bede, as a place rich in
+churches, monasteries and hospitals, Berwick held high rank in the
+ecclesiastical world. Its geographical position, too, as a frontier town
+made it the Strasburg for which contending armies were continually in
+conflict. Century after century its history was one red record of strife
+and bloodshed. Its walls, like its old Bridge spanning the Tweed, were
+built in Elizabeth's reign, and its Royal Border Bridge, opened to
+traffic in 1850, was happily characterised by Robert Stephenson, its
+builder, as the "last act of the Union."
+
+  PLATE 18
+
+  THE REMNANT OF
+  WARK CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 39 and 92_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+IV. "PLEASANT TEVIOTDALE"
+
+
+Ettrick and Yarrow between them comprise most of Selkirkshire. The
+Teviot and Jed are the main arteries running through Roxburghshire, or
+Teviotdale, as was the ancient designation, colloquially Tividale and
+Tibbiedale. On the source-to-mouth principle--the most natural and the
+most instructive--the best approach into Teviotdale is by way of
+Langholm, locally _the_ Langholm, pleasantly situated on the
+Dumfriesshire Esk, at the junction of the Ewes and Wauchope Waters. In
+the fine pastoral valley of the Ewes--the Yarrow of Dumfriesshire--we
+pass several places of note before striking Teviothead and the main
+course of the Teviot. At Wrae, William Knox, author of "The Lonely
+Hearth," and writer of the stanzas on "Mortality," so constantly quoted
+by Abraham Lincoln, had his home for a time. George Gilfillan, no mean
+judge, characterises him as the best sacred poet in Scotland. Further on
+is the birth-spot of another well-known singer, Henry Scott Riddell,
+whose patriotic "Scotland Yet" has won its way to the ends of the earth,
+wherever Scotsmen gather. At Unthank Kirkyard--none more lonely save St.
+Mary's on Yarrow, perhaps--we examine the graves of the hospitable and
+kindly Elliots of "Dandie Dinmont" immortality. Mosspaul Inn, lately
+restored, is close to the boundary between the two counties. From the
+Wisp Hill (1950 feet) the view on a clear day from Carlisle in the south
+to the distant north, is one to be remembered. The Wordsworths were at
+Mosspaul in 1803, and Dorothy's description is still fairly correct:
+"The scene with its single dwelling, was melancholy and wild, but not
+dreary, though there was no tree nor shrub; the small streamlet
+glittered, the hills were populous with sheep; but the gentle bending of
+the valley and the correspondent softness in the forms of the hills were
+of themselves enough to delight the eye. The whole of the Teviot and the
+pastoral steeps about Mosspaul pleased us exceedingly."
+
+  PLATE 19
+
+  BERWICK-ON-TWEED
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 43, 49, 63, 93_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+At Teviothead we touch the Teviot proper. The upper basin of the Teviot
+is mainly a barren vale, flanked by lofty rounded hills. For a greater
+distance it is a strip of alluvial plain, screened by terraced banks
+clad with the rankest vegetation, and with long stretches of undulating
+dale-land, and overhung at from three to eight miles by terminating
+heights, and in its lower reaches it is a richly variegated champaign
+country, possessing all the luxuriance without any of the tameness of a
+fertile plain, and stretching away in resulting loveliness to the
+picturesque Eildons on the one hand and the dome-like Cheviots on the
+other. Teviothead, formerly Carlanrigg, is full of traditionary lore.
+Teviot Stone, extinct now, a landmark for centuries--its position being
+marked on some of our earliest maps--recalls Scott's favourite lines
+from the "Lay," imprinted on the Selkirk monument:
+
+    "By Yarrow's streams, still let me stray,
+    Though none should guide my feeble way;
+    Still feel the breeze down Ettrick break,
+    Although it chill my withered cheek;
+    Still lay my head by Teviot Stone,
+    Though there, forgotten and alone,
+    The Bard may draw his parting groan."
+
+Teviothead Churchyard contains the graves of Johnie Armstrong of
+Gilnockie, and his gallants. James V. (a mere boy-king at the time)
+never planned a more despicable or more atrocious deed than the betrayal
+and summary execution of this most picturesque of the freebooters. And
+posterity has never forgiven him. Nor can it. Scott's "Minstrelsy"
+ballad commemorating the incident is far and away the most dramatic of
+its kind, Johnie's scathing answer to the King being specially
+characteristic:
+
+    "To seik het water beneith cauld ice,
+    Surely it is a greit follie;
+    I have asked grace at a graceless face,
+    But there is nane for my men and me!"
+
+There is a tradition that the trees on which they were hanged became
+immediately blasted; and Scott, in parting with the Wordsworths directed
+them to look about for "some old stumps of trees," but "we could not
+find them," adds Miss Wordsworth. Hard by are the graves of Scott
+Riddell and his third son, William, a youth of remarkable promise.
+Teviothead Cottage, where Riddell resided till his death in 1870, is
+passed on the left. The church in which he preached (he was in charge of
+the then preaching station here) is now the parish school, and his
+monument, like a huge candle extinguisher, crowns the neighbouring
+Dryden Knowes. Still keeping to the Teviot, now a fair-sized stream,
+rich in the variety and beauty of its scenery--
+
+    "Pleasant Teviotdale, a land
+    Made blithe by plough and harrow"--
+
+we pass Gledsnest and Colterscleuch, figuring in the well-known "Jamie
+Telfer" ballad; Commonside, mentioned in "Kinmont Willie";
+Northhouse, Teindside, Harwood, and Broadhaugh, snug farms all, till the
+hamlet of Newmill is reached, the quarrel scene between the "jovial
+harper" of the "Lay" and "Sweet Milk," "Bard of Reull," in which the
+latter was slain:
+
+    "On Teviot's side, in fight they stood,
+    And tuneful hands were stained with blood,
+    Where still the thorn's white branches wave
+    Memorial o'er his rival's grave."
+
+Allan Cunningham's version of "Rattlin', Roarin' Willie" should be read
+in this connection. Branxholme (poetically Branksome) is a particularly
+interesting portion of the Teviot valley. Its Braes recall the old
+ditty:
+
+    "As I came in by Teviot side
+    And by the Braes of Branksome,
+    There first I saw my bonnie bride,
+    Young, smiling, sweet, and handsome."
+
+And looming up before us is the massive white pile of Branxholme itself,
+the master-fort of the Teviot, and the key of the pass between the Tweed
+basin and Merrie Carlisle. The Castle occupies a strong position, has
+been much modernised, and is now a residence for Buccleuch's
+Chamberlain. Up to 1756, it was the chief seat of the Buccleuch family.
+Branxholme's main glory, however, is not its past history, or the pomp
+and circumstance surrounding it in the hey-day of its power. If there
+was "another Yarrow" to Wordsworth, there is "another Branxholme" to us.
+It is not the memory of the fighting barons of Buccleuch, with their
+tumultuous raids and unending quarrels, which draws the pilgrim's feet
+to Branxholme's Tower, but the memory of events which the imagination
+of the Minstrel has conjured up, and which have made for themselves a
+local habitation and a name. For here Scott placed the leading incidents
+of the "Lay,"--the first and finest of his Border efforts:
+
+    "Nine-and-twenty knights of fame
+    Hung their shields in Branksome Hall,
+    Nine-and-twenty squires of name
+    Brought them their steeds to bower from stall."
+
+From Branxholme to the russet-grey Peel of Goldielands is scarcely two
+miles. Minus gables or parapet now, and standing among the haystacks and
+buildings of a farm, it is still in tolerable preservation. Here dwelt
+amongst others of its old heroes, "the Laird's Wat, that worthie man,"
+who led the Scots at the Reidswire in 1575. Not improbably is
+Goldielands the peel associated with Willie of Westburnflat's operations
+in the "Black Dwarf." At Goldielands Gate one gets a fine view to the
+right of the Borthwick valley,
+
+    "Where Bortha hoarse that loads the meads with sand,
+    Rolls her red tide to Teviot's western stand."
+
+And up the Borthwick, a mile or two, on its steep bank sits Harden, a
+place of more than ordinary note to the Scott student. Here Auld Wat,
+Sir Walter's grandsire seven times removed, reigned a king among Border
+reivers, whose deeds of derring-do have been long shrined by the
+balladists, and graven deep on the tablets of memory. Hawick, the
+Glasgow of the Borders, comes next in sight,--where Slitrig and Teviot
+meet. An ancient town, but possessing few relics of antiquity, except
+St. Mary's Church, and the Tower Inn, a dwelling of the Drumlanrig
+Douglases, with the mysterious Moat "where Druid shades still flitted
+round." The modernity of the place is, however, lost sight of annually
+in the "riding of the marches," a custom which prevails also in Selkirk
+and Langholm. It is the great public festival of the year, and dates
+from time immemorial. Its memories are mostly of Flodden, and the brave
+stand at Hornshole in the neighbourhood, the year after. The Flodden
+flag, splendidly "bussed," is carried in civic and cornetal procession
+with crowds continually singing--as only Teridom can--the rousing
+martial air of "Teribus," the Hawick slogan, which expresses more than
+any other the wild and defiant strain of the war-trump and the
+battle-shout. Hawick, including Wilton, has several elegantly
+architectured buildings, over a score of Tweed mills and factories,
+seventeen churches, and boasts a population of nearly twenty thousand.
+
+From Hawick to Kelso the distance is 21 miles, with a finely undulating
+road all through. The railway journey _via_ St. Boswells is about double
+the distance. Our way lies through some of the most storied scenery in
+the Lowlands. The names on the map will give us an idea of the
+exceedingly romantic character of this second half of the Teviot. Here
+we come into touch with such song-haunted tributaries as the Jed and
+Oxnam, the Rule and Kale, and Ale, and with many of the great houses
+whose history has contributed more than any other to the making of the
+Border Country. The names of Scott and Ker, Elliot and Douglas, Turnbull
+and Riddell are patent to every parish through which we pass. At Minto,
+the home of the Elliots and seat of the present Indian Viceroy, one is
+reminded of the distinguished place which that family has held both in
+the stormy and in the more peaceful times of Border story. Here Jean
+Elliot wrote the "Flowers of the Forest," and Thomas Campbell his
+"Lochiel's Warning." From Minto Crags, crowned with Fatlips Castle and
+Barnhill's Bed, (729 feet) there is no more pleasing prospect in the
+Borderland. The windings of the Teviot are traceable for miles, the
+Liddesdale and Dumfriesshire heights hemming in the view on one side,
+and the blue Cheviots on the other. Ruberslaw rises immediately in
+front, with Denholm Dene on the right, and the narrow bed of the "mining
+Rule" on the left, while behind to the north are distinctly seen the
+three-coned Eildons, Earlston Black Hill, Scott's Sandyknowe, Hume
+Castle, and the wavy line of the Lammermoors. Hassendean (suggesting
+"Jock o' Hazeldean") Cavers, a Douglas house, where the pennon of the
+great Earl, and the Percy gauntlets are still shown; Denholm, Leyden's
+birthplace, Henlawshiel and Kirkton, scenes in his boyhood, lie all in
+the neighbourhood. Dr. Chalmers was for a time assistant in Cavers Kirk,
+and in later life delighted to recall his connection with the Border
+district. Adjoining Minto, Ancrum stands bonnie on Ale Water--a village
+of considerable antiquity. Its Cross, dating from David I.'s time, is
+one of the best-preserved of the market-crosses of the Border. Ancrum
+was the birthplace of Dr. William Buchan of "Domestic Medicine"
+celebrity, and John Livingston, its minister during the Covenant, was a
+man of mark and piety in his day. The place naturally suggests Ancrum
+Moor, a mile or two to the north-west, one of the last great
+battlefields of the international struggle. In February, 1544, an
+English army under Sir Ralph Evers and Sir Brian Latoun desolated the
+Scottish frontier as far north as Melrose, defacing the Douglas tombs in
+the abbey. On returning with their booty towards Jedburgh, they were
+overtaken at Ancrum Moor, and severely beaten by a Scottish force led by
+the Earl of Angus and Scott of Buccleuch. In this battle, according to
+tradition, fought Maiden Lilliard, a brave Scotswoman from Maxton, who
+fell beneath many wounds and was buried on the spot. Her grave, in the
+midst of a thick fir-wood, carries the somewhat doggerel epitaph:
+
+    "Fair Maiden Lilliard
+    Lies under this stane;
+    Little was her stature,
+    But muckle was her fame
+    Upon the English loons
+    She laid monie thumps,
+    An' when her legs were cuttit off,
+    She fought upon her stumps."[C]
+
+[C] An attempt has been made to discredit this story by an appeal to the
+antiquity of the place-name, which is admittedly much earlier than
+Lilliard's day. This, however, does not dispose of the tradition. The
+likelihood is that originally the first line was really "the Fair Maid
+_of_ Lilliard."
+
+The monument has been frequently restored. Lady John Scott made the last
+repairing touches, adding the words:
+
+    "To A' TRUE SCOTSMEN.
+    By me it's been mendit,
+    To your care I commend it."
+
+  PLATE 20
+
+  HOLLOWS TOWER
+  (SOMETIMES CALLED
+  GILNOCKIE TOWER)
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 72 and 96_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The Jed, joining the Teviot close to Jedfoot Station, reminds us that
+the county town of Roxburgh--Jedburgh--is within easy access, and the
+fascinating valley of the Jed which Burns so vigorously extolled. The
+Jed takes its rise between Needslaw and Carlintooth on the Liddesdale
+Border. Its general course is east and north, and its length about
+seventeen miles. The places of chief interest on its banks are
+Southdean, where the Scottish chiefs assembled previous to Otterburn,
+and where the poet Thomson spent his boyhood; Old Jedworth, the original
+township, a few grassy mounds marking the spot; Ferniherst Castle, a Ker
+stronghold; Lintalee, the site of a Douglas camp described in Barbour's
+"Bruce;" the Capon Tree, a thousand years old, one of the last survivors
+of "Jedworth's forest wild and free;" and the Hundalee hiding caves. The
+charm of Jedburgh consists in its old-world character and its
+semi-Continental touches. Its fine situation early attracted the notice
+of the Scottish Kings, though Bishop Ecfred of Lindisfarne is believed
+to have been its true founder. He could not have chosen a more sweet or
+appropriate nook for his little settlement. Nestling in the quiet
+valley, and creeping up the ridge of the Dunion, the song of the river
+ever in its ears, freshened by the scent of garden and orchard, and
+surrounded by finely-wooded heights, Nature has been lavish in filling
+with new adornments, as years sped by, a spot always bright and fair.
+
+    "O softly Jed! thy sylvan current lead
+    Round every hazel copse and smiling mead,
+    Where lines of firs the glowing landscape screen,
+    And crown the heights with tufts of deeper green."
+
+The modern beauty of the place notwithstanding, Jedburgh's history has
+been a singularly troubled one. As a frontier town and the first place
+of importance north of the Cheviots, it was naturally a scene of strife
+and bloodshed. Around it lay the famous Jed Forest, rivalling that of
+Ettrick. The inhabitants were brave warriors, and noted for the skill
+with which they wielded the Jeddart staff or Jedwood axe. Their presence
+at the Reidswire decided that skirmish in favour of the Scottish
+Borderers:
+
+    "Then rose the slogan wi' ane shout,
+    Fye, Tynedale, to it! Jeddart's here."
+
+And at Flodden the men from the glens of the Jed were conspicuous for
+their heroism. Jedburgh Abbey is the chief "lion" of the locality.
+Completer than Kelso and Dryburgh, and simpler and more harmonious than
+Melrose, it stands in the most delightful of situations, girt about with
+well-kept gardens, overlooking the bosky banks of the Jed--a veritable
+poem in Nature and Art. Queen Mary's House (restored) the scene of her
+all but mortal illness in 1566 is still existing, and well worth a
+visit. The literary associations of the burgh are more than local. James
+Thomson was a pupil at its Grammar School. Burns was made a burgess
+during his Border tour in 1787. Scott made his first appearance as a
+criminal counsel at Jedburgh, pleading successfully for his poacher
+client. The Wordsworths visited Jedburgh in 1803. Sir David Brewster and
+Mary Somerville were natives, and here the "Scottish Probationer" lived
+and died. Samuel Rutherford was born at Crailing, the next parish, where
+also David Calderwood, the Kirk historian, was minister. Cessford
+Castle, in Eckford parish, was the residence of the redoubtable "Habbie
+Ker," ancestor of the Dukes of Roxburghe. Marlefield, "where Kale
+wimples clear 'neath the white-blossomed slaes," is a supposed scene
+(erroneous) of the "Gentle Shepherd." Yetholm, on the Bowmont, near the
+Great Cheviot, has been the headquarters of Scottish gypsydom since the
+17th century. Opposite Floors Castle, at the confluence of the Tweed and
+Teviot is the green tree-clad mound with a few crumbling walls, all that
+remains of the illustrious Castle of Roxburgh, one of the strongest on
+the Borders, the birthplace and abode of kings, and parliaments, and
+mints, and so often a bone of bitter contention between Scots and
+English. The town itself, the most important on the Middle Marches, has
+entirely disappeared, its site and environs forming now some of the most
+fertile fields in the county:
+
+    "Roxburgh! how fallen, since first, in Gothic pride,
+    Thy frowning battlements the war defied,
+    Called the bold chief to grace thy blazoned halls,
+    And bade the rivers gird thy solid walls!
+    Fallen are thy towers; and where the palace stood,
+    In gloomy grandeur waves yon hanging wood.
+    Crushed are thy halls, save where the peasant sees
+    One moss-clad ruin rise between the trees;
+    The still green trees, whose mournful branches wave
+    In solemn cadence o'er the hapless grave.
+    Proud castle! fancy still beholds thee stand,
+    The curb, the guardian, of this Border land;
+    As when the signal flame that blazed afar,
+    And bloody flag, proclaimed impending war,
+    While in the lion's place the leopard frowned,
+    And marshalled armies hemmed thy bulwarks round."
+
+  PLATE 21
+
+  GOLDILANDS NEAR
+  HAWICK
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 98, 99_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+V. IN THE BALLAD COUNTRY
+
+
+To a shepherd in Canada Dr. Norman Macleod is said to have remarked,
+"What a glorious country this is!" "Ay," said the man, "it is a very
+good country." "And such majestic rivers!" "Oh, ay," was all the reply.
+"And such good forests!" "Ay, but there are nae linties in the woods,
+and nae braes like Yarrow!" Of course, the answer was from a purely
+exile point of view, but even to those of the Old Country the name of
+Yarrow wields the most wondrous fascination. Like Tweed, Yarrow is known
+everywhere, for who has not heard of its "Dowie Dens," or of its lovers'
+tragedies? Certainly no stream has been more besung. The name is
+redolent of all that is most pathetic in Border poetry. This is the
+centre of the Border ballad country--the birthplace, or, at all events,
+the nursing-ground of a romance than which there is none richer or more
+extensive on either side of the Border. The Yarrow is the Scottish
+Rhine-land on a small scale, even more so than the Tweed. Tweedside,
+indeed, has not a tithe of Yarrow's ballad wealth, and the Tweed ballads
+and folk-lore are absolutely different in respect both of subject-matter
+and of manner. The curious feature about Yarrow is the wonderful
+sameness which characterises the whole of its minstrelsy. For hundreds
+of years that has been so. Sadness is the uppermost note that is
+sounded. All through we are face to face with a feeling of dejection as
+remarkable as it is common. One could have understood a stray effusion
+or so couched in this strain, but for an entire minstrelsy to breathe
+such a spirit is extraordinary. Why should Yarrow be the
+personification, as it were, of a grief and a melancholy that nothing
+seems able to assuage? Is there anything in the scenery to account for
+it--anything in the physical conditions of the glen itself that solves
+the secret? There is, and there isn't. To a mere outsider--a mere summer
+tripper hurrying through--Yarrow is little different from others of the
+southland valleys. Its main features are identical with those of the
+Ettrick, and the Tweed uplands, or with the Ewes and the Teviot. All of
+them exhibit the same pastoral stillness. The same play of light and
+shade are on their hills. The same soothing spirit broods over them. But
+of Yarrow alone it is the element of sadness that prevails. To
+understand this, one has to _live_ in Yarrow--to come under the
+influence of its environment. And whether it be fancy or not, whether it
+be the result of one's reading, and of one's pre-conceived notions of
+the place, the Yarrow landscape does lend itself to the realisation of
+that feeling which the ballads so well portray. The configuration of the
+glen as seen especially from a little above Yarrow Manse--the "Dowie
+Dens" of popular tradition--together with its climatic conditions, may
+very easily interpret for us the spirit of those old singers. Here, if
+anywhere in the valley, the answer to the Yarrow enigma will be found.
+Professor Veitch thinks that the whole district affords such an answer:
+"Nor will anyone," he says, "who is familiar with the Vale of Yarrow
+have had much difficulty in understanding how it is suited to pathetic
+verse. The rough and broken, yet clear, beautiful, and wide-spreading
+stream has no grand cliffs to show; and it is not surrounded by high and
+overshadowing hills. Here and there it flows placidly, reflectively, in
+large liquid lapses, through an open valley of the deepest summer green;
+still, let us be thankful, in its upper reaches at least, mantled by
+nature and untouched by plough and harrow. There is a placid monotone
+about its bare treeless scenery--an unbroken pastoral stillness on the
+sloping braes and hillsides, as they rise, fall, and bend in a uniformly
+deep colouring. The silence of the place is forced upon the attention,
+deepened even by the occasional break in the flow of the stream, or by
+the bleating of the sheep that, white and motionless amid the pasture,
+dot the knowes. We are attracted by the silence, and we are also
+depressed. There is the pleasure of hushed enjoyment. The spirit of the
+scene is in those immortal lines:--
+
+    "Meek loveliness is round thee spread
+      A softness still and holy;
+    The grace of Forest charms decayed
+      And pastoral melancholy."
+
+Those deep green grassy knowes of the valley are peculiarly susceptible
+of change. In the morning with a blue sky, or with breaks of sunlight
+through the fleeting clouds, the green hillsides and the stream smile
+and gleam in sympathy with the cheerfulness of heaven. But under a grey
+sky, or at the gloaming, the Yarrow wears a peculiarly wan aspect--a
+look of sadness. And no valley I know is more susceptible of sudden
+change. The spirit of the air can speedily weave out of the mists that
+gather upon the massive hills at the heads of the Megget and the Talla,
+a wide-spreading web of greyish cloud--the 'skaum' of the sky--that
+casts a gloom over the under green of the hills; and dims the face of
+loch and stream in a pensive shadow. The saddened heart would readily
+find there fit analogue and nourishment for its sorrow. Which is all
+very true. But, as has been said, Tweed and Teviot show exactly these
+conditions, and what of their minstrelsy remains is not touched with
+this strangely morose sense. May not the solution lie in the very legend
+of the "Dowie Dens" itself, and in the remarkable cup-like configuration
+of the valley as seen from the point already indicated and under the wan
+aspects which are admittedly a distinctive feature of the Yarrow at all
+seasons of the year? Out of this have emerged very probably the spirit
+of the balladists and their ballads. One after another have simply
+followed suit, and the likelihood is that had gladness and not gloom
+been the burden of some far back strain, we should not have had the
+Yarrow we possess to-day. Men of the most diverse temperaments have come
+under the sad spell of the Yarrow. The most lighthearted sons of song
+have succumbed to the general feeling. Wordsworth himself would have
+preferred to strike another note, but the enchantment of the spot held
+him fast:
+
+    "O that some Minstrel's harp were near
+      To utter notes of gladness,
+    And chase this silence from the air,
+      That fills my heart with sadness!"
+
+All the verse writers of the last century were mere continuators of
+their fellow-bards centuries before. There are, to be sure, some
+flippant spirits who would dare to alter the very atmosphere of Yarrow,
+but what a poor attempt at the impossible! Yarrow must ever abide the
+embodiment of the most heart-piercing, and at the same time, the most
+winsome melody the world has listened to.
+
+Popularly speaking, the best of the Yarrow ballads concerns itself with
+the famous "Dowie Dens" tragedy, of which there seems to be some
+authentic reference in the Selkirk Presbytery Record for 1616. It is
+there narrated how Walter Scott of Tushielaw made "an informal and
+inordinate marriage with Grizell Scott of Thirlestane without consent of
+her father." Just three months later, the same Record contains entry of
+a summons to Simeon Scott, of Bonytoun, an adherent of Thirlestane, and
+three other Scotts "to compear at Melrose to hear themselves
+excommunicated for the horrible slaughter of Walter Scott." We have here
+probably the precise incident on which the unknown "makar" founded his
+crude but intensely picturesque and dramatic lay. How much of womanly
+winsomeness and heroism, of knightly dignity and daring, and the
+unconquerable strength of love are portrayed in the following stanzas!
+There are, indeed, few ballads in any language that match its strains:
+
+    "She kiss'd his cheek, she kaim'd his hair,
+      As oft she had done before, O;
+    She belted him with his noble brand,
+      And he's away to Yarrow.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "'If I see all, ye're nine to ane;
+      And that's an unequal marrow;
+    Yet will I fight, while lasts my brand,
+      On the bonnie banks of Yarrow.'
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Four has he hurt, and five has slain;
+      On the bloody braes of Yarrow,
+    Till that stubborn knight came him behind,
+      And ran his body thorough.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "Yestreen I dream'd a dolefu' dream;
+      I fear there will be sorrow!
+    I dream'd I pu'd the heather green
+      Wi' my true love on Yarrow.
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+    "She kiss'd his cheek, she kaimed his hair;
+      She search'd his wounds all thorough;
+    She kiss'd them till her lips grew red,
+      On the dowie houms of Yarrow."
+
+A fragment of rare beauty, believed to be based on the same incident
+(unlikely however) was one of Scott's special favourites. Rather does it
+shrine a similar tragedy, one of many such which must have been common
+enough in those troubled and lawless times. How melting is the pathos of
+the following verses, for instance!
+
+    "Willie's rare and Willie's fair,
+      And Willie's wondrous bonny,
+    And Willie's hecht to marry me,
+      Gin e'er he married ony.
+
+    "Yestreen I made my bed fu' braid,
+      This night I'll make it narrow,
+    For a' the livelong winter night,
+      I'll lie twin'd of my marrow.
+
+    She sought him east, she sought him west,
+      She sought him braid and narrow;
+    Syne, in the cleaving of a craig
+      She found him drown'd in Yarrow.
+
+Somewhat akin is the "Lament of the Border Widow," located at
+Henderland, in Meggetdale, not far from St. Mary's Loch. In the preface
+to this ballad in the "Minstrelsy," Scott states that it was "obtained
+from recitation in the Forest of Ettrick, and is said to relate to the
+execution of Cockburn of Henderland, a Border freebooter, hanged over
+the gate of his own tower by James V. in the course of that memorable
+expedition in 1529 which was fatal to Johnie Armstrong, Adam Scott of
+Tushielaw, and many other marauders." The grave of "Perys of Cockburne
+and hys wyfe Marjory" on a wooded knoll at Henderland, is still pointed
+out. But the historicity of the ballad has been questioned from the
+statement (which seems to be correct) that Cockburn was actually
+executed at Edinburgh, instead of at his own home. There is no evidence,
+however, to assume that the ballad commemorates this particular
+occurrence or that it has any connection with the grave referred to. For
+genuine balladic merit it will be difficult to match:
+
+    My love he built me a bonny bower,
+    And clad it a' wi' lilye flower,
+    A brawer bower ye ne'er did see
+    Than my true love he built for me.
+
+    There came a man, by middle day
+    He spied his sport, and went away,
+    And brought the King that very night,
+    Who brake my bower and slew my knight.
+
+    He slew my knight, to me sae dear;
+    He slew my knight, and poin'd his gear;
+    My servants all for life did flee,
+    And left me in extremitie.
+
+    I sewed his sheet, making my mane;
+    I watched the corpse myself alane;
+    I watch'd his body night and day;
+    No living creature came that way.
+
+    I took his body on my back,
+    And whiles I gaed, and whiles I sat;
+    I digg'd a grave, and laid him in,
+    And happ'd him with the sod sae green.
+    But think na ye my heart was sair,
+    When I laid the moul' on his yellow hair;
+    O think na ye my heart was wae,
+    When I turned about away to gae?
+
+    Nae living man I'll love again,
+    Since that my lovely knight is slain,
+    Wi ae lock of his yellow hair,
+    I'll chain my heart for evermair.
+
+  PLATE 22
+
+  "HE PASS'D WHERE
+  NEWARK'S STATELY
+  TOWER LOOKS OUT
+  FROM YARROW'S
+  BIRCHEN BOWER"
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+  (_See pp. 116_)
+
+[Illustration]
+
+One might speak, too, of the "Douglas Tragedy," the scene of which is
+laid in the Douglas Glen, in the heart of the quiet hills forming the
+watershed betwixt Tweed and Yarrow. Here lived the "Good Sir
+James"--Bruce's right-hand man, who strove to carry his heart to the
+Holy Land. It was from this Tower at Blackhouse that Margaret the Fair
+was carried off by her lover, and about a mile further up on the
+hillside the seven stones marking the spot where Lord William alighted
+and slew the Lady's seven brothers in full pursuit of the pair, are
+objects of curious interest. This ballad, it is interesting to note, is
+one widely diffused throughout Europe, being specially rich in Danish,
+Icelandic, Norse, and Swedish collections. Indeed, almost all the Yarrow
+ballads--and many others--are common to Continental _volks-lieder_, and
+are found in extraordinary profusion from Iceland to the Peloponesus.
+Here is evidence, by no means slight, of the theory that ballads
+originate from a common stock, and that in the course of ages they have
+simply become transplanted and localized. Then the Yarrow valley
+contains the scene of the "Song of the Outlaw Murray"--a distinctively
+Border production (74 verses in all) composed during the reign of James
+V. Murray divides with Johnie Armstrong the honour of being the Border
+Robin Hood, but to Murray a very different treatment was meted out.
+The Outlaw's lands at Hangingshaw and elsewhere were his own, though he
+held them minus a title. James fumed at this, and determined to bring
+the Forest chief to submission:
+
+    "The King of Scotland sent me here,
+      And, gude Outlaw, I am sent to thee;
+    I wad wot of how ye hald your lands,
+      O man, wha may thy master be?"
+
+    "Thir lands are MINE! the Outlaw said:
+      I ken nae King in Christendie;
+    Frae England I this Forest won
+      When the King and his knights were not to see."
+
+Upon which the King's Commissioner assures the Outlaw that it will be
+worse for him if he fails to give heed to the royal desire:
+
+    "Gif ye refuse to do this
+      He'll compass baith thy lands and thee;
+    He hath vow'd to cast thy castle down
+      And mak a widow of thy gay lady."
+
+But Murray is defiant, and James is equally resolved to crush him.
+Friends are pressed into the Outlaw's service, and very soon he has a
+goodly number of troopers all ready to render service in the hour of
+their kinsman's need, well knowing that in aiding him they would be
+doing the best thing for themselves, as "landless men they a' wad be" if
+the King got his own way in Ettrick Forest. But, like all good ballads,
+this, too, ends happily. A compromise is effected, by which the Outlaw
+obtains the post he had long coveted--Sheriff of the Forest:
+
+    "He was made Sheriff of Ettrick Forest,
+      Surely while upward grows the tree;
+    And if he was na traitour to the King,
+      Forfaulted he should never be.
+
+    "Wha ever heard, in ony times,
+      Siccan an Outlaw in his degree
+    Sic favour get before a King
+      As the Outlaw Murray of the Forest free?"
+
+Of right "Tamlany"--by far the finest of the Border fairy
+ballads--belongs more to Ettrick than to Yarrow. The scene is laid in
+Carterhaugh, at the confluence of the two streams, two miles above
+Selkirk. The ballad (24 stanzas) is too long to quote, but may be read
+in all good collections. For the same reason also we must pass over the
+"Battle of Philiphaugh," commemorating Leslie's victory over Montrose in
+1645; and the "Gay Goss-Hawk," the dramatic ending of which is laid at
+St. Mary's Kirk, high upon the hillside overlooking the waters of the
+Loch. Nothing is left now save the site, and a half-deserted
+burying-ground where "Covenanter and Catholic, Scotts, and Kers and
+Pringles--all sorts and conditions of men--sleep their long sleep at
+peace together." Among the shrines of Yarrowdale, this is not the least
+notable. Like the grave of Keats outside the walls of Rome, as some one
+has said, "it would almost make one in love with death to be buried in
+so sweet a spot among the heather and brackens, and the sighing of the
+solitary mountain ash." St. Mary's Loch lies shimmering at our feet.
+Scott's "Marmion" picture is still wonderfully correct:
+
+    "Oft in my mind such thoughts awake,
+    By lone Saint Mary's silent lake;
+    Thou know'st it well--nor fen, nor sedge
+    Pollute the pure lake's crystal edge;
+    Abrupt and sheer, the mountains sink
+    At once upon the level brink;
+    And just a trace of silver sand
+    Marks where the water meets the land.
+
+    Far in the mirror, bright and blue,
+    Each hill's huge outline you may view;
+    Shaggy with heath, but lonely bare,
+    Nor tree, nor bush, nor brake is there,
+    Save where, of land, yon slender line
+    Bears thwart the lake the scatter'd pine,
+    Yet even this nakedness has power,
+    And aids the feeling of the hour."
+
+All this delightsome countryside is Hogg-land too, let us remember, as
+well as Scott-land. For here, in ballad-haunted Yarrow, the immortal
+James spent the best years of his life, failing so tantalizingly as
+farmer, but as poet, "King of the Mountain and Fairy school," dreaming
+so well of that most bewitching of all his conceptions--"Bonnie
+Kilmeny." Yonder, overlooking Tibbie Shiel's "cosy beild"--a howff of
+the Noctes coterie--stands the solitary white figure of the beloved
+Shepherd as Christopher North's prophetic soul felt that it must be some
+day. Hogg was born in the neighbouring Ettrick valley--in 1770
+presumably. His birth-cottage is extinct now, but a handsome memorial
+marks the spot. Most of his life, as has been said, was passed in the
+sister vale, first at Blackhouse, then at Mount Benger, and at Altrive
+(now Eldinhope), where he died three years after his truest of
+friends--Sir Walter. The Ettrick homeland guards his dust. Close by is
+the resting-place of Thomas Boston, that earlier "Ettrick Shepherd"
+whose "Fourfold State" and "Crook in the Lot" are not yet forgotten. In
+the sequestered Yarrow churchyard sleeps Scott's maternal
+great-grandfather, John Rutherford, who was minister of the parish from
+1691 to 1710. Scott spoke of Yarrow as the "shrine of his ancestors,"
+and himself, like Hogg, and Willie Laidlaw, frequently worshipped within
+its old grey walls. Further down the stream, the "shattered front of
+Newark's towers" reminds us that here Scott placed the recital of the
+"Lay." He would fain have fitted up the ancient fabric as a residence,
+had it been possible. Almost opposite, the birthplace of Mungo Park, the
+first of the knight-errantry of Africa, attracts attention, and a mile
+or two nearer Selkirk, are Philiphaugh, and "sweet Bowhill," the two
+finest domains in the Forest. The Covenanters' Monument within
+Philiphaugh grounds is worthy of notice, and on the Ettrick side,
+Kirkhope and Oakwood, both in fairly good repair, are excellent
+specimens of the peel period. At Selkirk, the capital of Ettrickdale,
+Scott's statue as "the Shirra"--a most admirable representation--looks
+out at scenes upon which his eyes in life must often have feasted. Here
+we read the lines that express his heart's deep love for a district
+interwoven so closely with all the years of his working life:
+
+    "By Yarrow's streams still let me stray,
+    Though none should guide my feeble way;
+    Still feel the breeze down Ettrick break,
+    Although it chill my wither'd cheek."
+
+  PLATE 23
+
+  VIEW OF NEW ABBEY
+  AND CRIFFEL
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+VI. THE LEADER VALLEY.
+
+
+To the present writer, the valley of the Leader, or Lauderdale, has
+attractions and memories that are second to none in the Border. "Here,
+first,"--to use Hogg's lines--
+
+    "He saw the rising morn,
+      Here, first, his infant mind unfurled
+    To ween the spot where he was born
+      The very centre of the world."
+
+Lauderdale constitutes one of the "three parts" into which Berwickshire,
+like Ancient Gaul, is divided. The others are the Merse, (_i.e._,
+March-Land)--often a distinctive designation for the entire county, but
+applicable especially to the low-lying lands beside the Tweed;
+Lammermoor, so named from the Lammermoor Hills ranging across the county
+from Soutra Edge and Lammer Law in the extreme north-west, to the
+coastline at Fast Castle and St. Abbs. Lauderdale, the westernmost
+division, running due north and south, embraces simply the basin of the
+Leader and its tributaries so far as the basin is in Berwickshire. Its
+total length is not more than twenty-one miles, from Kelphope Burn, the
+real origin of the Leader, to Leaderfoot, about two miles below Melrose,
+where it meets the waters of the Tweed. Leaderdale and Lauderdale are
+but varieties of the name. A little off the beaten track, perhaps, it
+can be easily reached by rail to St. Boswells and Earlston, or to Lauder
+itself, from Fountainhall, on the Waverley Route, by the light railway
+recently opened. Its upper course among the Lammermoors is through
+bleak, monotonous hill scenery; but the middle and lower reaches pass
+into a fine series of landscapes--the "Leader Haughs" of many an olden
+strain--- flanked by graceful green hills and swells, and plains, that
+are hardly surpassed in Scotland for agricultural wealth and beauty. Of
+Berwickshire generally, it may be said that it has few industries and no
+mineral wealth to speak of. Its business is chiefly in one
+department--agriculture. For that the soil is particularly well adapted.
+Especially is this true of the Merse and Lauderdale districts, where the
+farmers take a high place in agricultural affairs, many of them being
+recognised experts and authorities on the subject. Thousands of acres on
+the once bald and featureless hill-lands of Lauderdale have been brought
+within the benign influence of plough and harrow, and are choice
+ornaments in a county famous for its agricultural triumphs all the world
+over. But Romance, rather than agriculture, is the true glory of the
+Leader Valley. It will be difficult to find a locality--Yarrow
+excepted--which is more under the spell of the past. May not Lauderdale,
+indeed, be claimed as the very birthplace of Scottish melody itself?
+Robert Chambers styled it "the Arcadia of Scotland," and was not Thomas
+of Ercildoune the "day-starre of Scottish poetry?"
+
+This, too, is the country of St. Cuthbert. At Channelkirk, he was
+probably born. At all events the first light of history falls upon him
+here, as a shepherd lad, watching his flocks by the Leader, and striving
+to think out the deep things of the divine life, with the most ardent
+longings in his soul after it. The traditional meadow, whence he beheld
+the vision which changed his career, is still pointed out, and his
+reputed birthplace at Cuddy Ha' keeps his memory green amongst those
+sweet refreshing solitudes. It is interesting to note Berwickshire's
+connection with the three most famous Borderers of history--St.
+Cuthbert, Thomas the Rhymer, and Walter Scott, of Merse extraction,
+whose dust Berwickshire holds as its most sacred trust.
+
+Lauder and Earlston are the only places of importance in the valley. The
+former--it is, by the way, the only royal burgh in the shire--boasts a
+considerable antiquity. It is still a quaint-looking but clean town,
+with long straggling street, and one or two buildings--the parish kirk
+and Tolbooth--offering decidedly Continental suggestions. Lauder's
+old-worldness and isolation are at an end, however. After much
+agitation, a railway-line now connects it with the rest of the world,
+and already the signs of a new life are apparent. Within a very few
+years the inevitable changes will be sure to have passed over this once
+quiet and exclusive little town. It is the "Maitland blude," which
+dominates Lauder, and Thirlestane Castle, built, or renovated rather, in
+the time of Charles II., is still a place to see. Amongst Scottish
+families, the Maitlands were first in place and power. Not a few of them
+were greatly distinguished as statesmen and men of letters--the blind
+poet and ballad-collector, Sir Richard; William Maitland, the celebrated
+Secretary Lethington; Chancellor Maitland, author of the satirical
+ballad, "Against Sklanderous Tongues;" Thomas, and Mary, Latin
+versifiers both; and the infamous "Cabal" Duke, the only bearer of the
+title. Within the well-kept policies of Thirlestane, tradition has
+located the site of the historic Lauder Bridge, so fatal to James III.'s
+favourites in 1482. Dr. John Wilson, of Bombay, Orientalist and scholar,
+was born at Lauder in 1804, and James Guthrie, the first Scottish martyr
+after the Reformation, was its minister for a short period.
+
+Earlston is seven miles down stream from Lauder. Before reaching the
+town of the Rhymer some spots of interest call for notice. At St.
+Leonard's--a little way out--a hospital off-shoot of Dryburgh, lived
+Burne the Violer, the last of the minstrel fraternity, a supposed
+prototype of the Minstrel of the "Lay," and author of the fine pastoral
+poem, "Leader Haughs and Yarrow," the verse-model for Wordsworth's
+"Three Yarrows." One verse was a great favourite with Scott and Carlyle,
+both of whom were known to repeat it frequently:--
+
+    "But Minstrel Burne can not assuage
+    His grief, while life endureth,
+    To see the changes of this age,
+    Which fleeting time procureth;
+    For mony a place stands in hard case,
+    Where blythe folk ken'd nae sorrow,
+    With Humes that dwelt on Leader-side,
+    And Scotts that dwelt on Yarrow."
+
+Blainslie, famous for its oats ("There's corn enough in the
+Blainslies"), and Whitslaid Tower, a long ago holding of the Lauder
+family, are passed a mile or two on. At Birkhill and Birkenside the road
+forks leftwards to Legerwood, where Grizel Cochrane of Ochiltree
+(afterwards Mrs. Ker of Morriston), heroine of the stirring mail-bag
+adventure narrated in the "Border Tales," sleeps in its lately
+restored kirk chancel. Chapel, and Carolside with a fine deer park,
+and most charming of country residences--at the latter of which Kinglake
+wrote part of his "Crimean War"--sit snugly to the right, in the bosky
+glen below.
+
+  PLATE 24
+
+  CRIFFEL AND LOCH
+  KINDAR
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+Earlston, the Ercildoune of olden time--name much better suited to the
+quiet beauty of its charming situation--has no unimportant place both in
+Scottish history and romance. It has been honoured by many royal visits.
+Here David the Sair Sanct subscribed the Foundation Charter of Melrose
+Abbey in 1136, and his son the Confirmatory Charter in 1143. Other royal
+visitors followed; there James IV. encamped for a night on his way from
+Edinburgh to Flodden; Queen Mary made a brief stay at Cowdenknowes as
+she passed from Craigmillar to Jedburgh; and lastly came Prince Charlie
+(unwelcome) on his march to Berwick-on-Tweed. But above all it is
+renowned as having been the residence (and birthplace probably) of
+Thomas the Rhymer, or True Thomas, or simply, as literary history
+prefers to call him, Thomas of Ercildoune. The Rhymer's Tower,
+associated with this remarkable personage, stands close to the Leader.
+Only a mere ivy-clad fragment remains (some 30 feet in height), but the
+memories of the place stretch back to more than six centuries, when
+Thomas was at the height of his fame as his country's great soothsayer
+and bard--the _vates sacer_ of the people. His rhymes are still quoted,
+and many of them have been realised in a manner which Thomas himself
+could scarcely have anticipated. Scott makes him the author of the
+metrical romance "Sir Tristrem," published from the Auchinleck _MS._ in
+1804, but the Rhymer is unlikely to have been the original compiler.
+With his Fairyland adventures and return to that mysterious region,
+everybody is familiar. A quaint stone in the church wall carries the
+inscription:
+
+  Auld Rymr's Race
+  Lyes in this place,
+
+and the probability is that Thomas sleeps somewhere amidst its dark
+dust, unless, indeed, he be still spell-bound in some as yet
+undiscovered cavern underneath the Eildons, waiting with Arthur, and
+Merlin, the blast of that irresistible horn which is to "peal their
+proud march from Fairyland."
+
+Mellerstain in Earlston Parish, is the burial-place of Grisell Baillie,
+the Polwarth heroine and songstress, and author of the plaintive "Werena
+My Heart Licht I wad Dee." Cowdenknowes, "where Homes had ance
+commanding," one of the really classical names in Border minstrelsy is
+the scene of that sweetest of love lyrics, the "Broom o' the
+Cowdenknowes":--
+
+    "How blithe, ilk morn, was I to see
+    My swain come o'er the hill!
+    He skipt the burn and flew to me:
+    I met him with good-will."
+
+Sandyknowe, Scott's cradling-ground in romance, and Bemersyde, one of
+the oldest inhabited houses in the Tweed Valley (partly peel), still
+evidencing the Rhymer's couplet:--
+
+    "Tyde what may betyde,
+    Haig shall be Haig of Bemersyde,--"
+
+are both in the near neighbourhood.
+
+A charming bit of country road lies between Earlston and Dryburgh,
+passing Redpath, the Park, Gladswood, and round by Bemersyde Hill, from
+which Scott had his favourite view of the Tweed--the "beautiful bend"
+shrining the site of the original Melrose, and the graceful Eildons--and
+by which his funeral procession wended its mournful way just
+seventy-four years ago. Half-way between Earlston and Melrose (by road
+4-1/2 miles), and close to
+
+    "Drygrange with the milk-white yowes,
+    Twixt Tweed and Leader standing,"
+
+the latter stream blends its waters with those of the Tweed, where the
+foliage is ever at its thickest and greenest; and looking up the glen
+towards Newstead and Melrose, another vision of rare beauty meets the
+eye. Framed in the tall piers of the railway viaduct (150 feet
+high)--not at all a disfigurement--the gracefully-bending Tweed, no more
+fair than here, with the smoke rising above the Abbeyed town, Eildon in
+the foreground, and the blue barrier of the hills beyond, make up a
+picture such as may come to us in dreams.
+
+
+
+
+VII. LIDDESDALE
+
+_From the Author's chapter in Cassell's "British Isles."_ (_By
+permission._)
+
+
+The Liddel rises in the Cheviot range, close to Jedhead, at an altitude
+of six hundred and fifty feet above sea level, and after a course of
+seven-and-twenty miles, with a fall of five hundred and forty-five feet,
+it joins the Esk at the Moat of Liddel, below Canonbie, near the famous
+Netherby Hall, twelve miles north of Carlisle and about eight from
+Langholm. It is fed by a score of affluents, of which the chief are the
+Hermitage and Kershope Waters, the latter constituting for nine miles or
+so the immediate boundary between the two countries. From its
+geographical position as cut off from the main division of the county,
+Liddesdale has little in common with the valleys of the Tweed and
+Teviot. A Liddesdaler, for instance, seldom crosses over to Tweedside,
+nor can a Tweedsider be said to have other than a comparatively slight
+acquaintanceship with his southern neighbour of the shire. Indeed,
+Liddesdale has been described as belonging in some respects more to
+England than to Scotland, and in a sense, it may be said to be the very
+centre of the Border Country itself.
+
+  PLATE 25
+
+  CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE
+
+  FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH
+
+  PAINTED BY
+
+  JAMES ORROCK, R.I.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+If now-a-days one may roam through Liddesdale with some degree of
+comfort, it was a very different matter for Scott and Shortreed little
+more than a hundred years since. They knew scarcely anything of the
+district, which lay to them, as was said, "like some unkenned-of isle
+ayont New Holland." But Scott was bent on his Minstrelsy
+ballad-huntings. And it was the very inaccessibility of the Liddel glens
+which inspired him with the hope of treasure. For seven autumns in
+succession they "raided" Liddesdale, as Scott phrased it, and, as he
+anticipated, some of the finest specimens in the Minstrelsy were the
+outcome of these excursions. Evidence of the utter solitariness and
+roadlessness of the region is found in the fact that no wheeled vehicle
+had been seen in Liddesdale till the advent of Scott's gig about 1798.
+Nor was there a single inn or public-house to be met with in the whole
+valley. Lockhart describes how the travellers passed "from the
+shepherd's hut to the minister's manse, and again from the cheerful
+hospitality of the manse to the rough and jolly welcome of the
+homestead, gathering wherever they went songs and tunes and occasionally
+more tangible relics of antiquity." But a hundred years have wrought
+wondrous transformation on the wild wastes of the Liddel. The
+"impenetrable savage land" of Scott's day, trackless and bridgeless, is
+now singularly well opened up to civilisation and the modern tripper.
+The Waverley Route of the North British Railway passes down the valley
+within a few miles of its best-known landmarks. The Road Committees are
+careful as to their duty, and a well-developed series of coaching tours
+has proved exceedingly popular. From a miserable expanse of bleak moors
+and quaking moss-hags, the greater portion of lower Liddesdale, at
+least, has passed into a picturesque combination of moor and woodland
+with rich pastoral holms and fields in the highest state of cultivation.
+
+But the main glory of Liddesdale is the romance that hangs over it.
+There is probably no parish in Scotland--for be it remembered that
+Liddesdale is virtually one parish--which could show such an
+extraordinary number of peel-houses to its credit. Their ruins, or where
+these have disappeared, the sites are pointed out with surprising
+frequency. A distinctively Border district, this was to be expected, and
+the like is true of the English side also. A Liddesdale Keep, still in
+excellent preservation--"four-square to all the winds that blow"--and
+far and away the strongest and the most massive pile on the Border
+frontier is Hermitage, in the pretty vale of that name, within easy
+reach from Steele Road or Riccarton stations, three and four miles
+respectively. Built by the Comyns in the thirteenth century, it passed
+to the Soulises, the Angus Douglases, to "Bell-the-Cat" himself, the
+Hepburn Bothwells, and the "bold Buccleuch," whose successor still holds
+it. Legend may almost be said to be indigenous to the soil of Hermitage,
+and one wonders not that Scott found his happy hunting-ground here. The
+youngest child will tell us about that "Ogre" Soulis, who was so hated
+by his vassals for his awful oppression of them, that at last they
+boiled him alive--horrible vengeance--on the Nine-Stane Rig, a Druidic
+circle near by. In part confirmation of the tragedy it is asserted that
+the actual cauldron may still be seen at Dalkeith Palace. Scott was
+constantly quoting the verses from Leyden's ballad:
+
+    "On a circle of stones they placed the pot,
+    On a circle of stones but barely nine;
+    They heated it red and fiery hot
+    Till the burnish'd brass did glimmer and shine
+
+    They rolled him up in a sheet of lead,
+    A sheet of lead for a funeral pall;
+    They plunged him in the cauldron red,
+    And melted him, lead, and bones, and all."
+
+The Nine-Stane Rig is the scene also of the fragmentary "Barthram's
+Dirge"--a clever Surtees forgery undetected by Scott. Leyden's second
+Hermitage ballad--two of the best in the "Minstrelsy"--deals with the
+Cout or Chief of Keeldar, in Northumberland, done to death by the "Ogre"
+in the Cout's Pool close to the Castle. In the little God's-acre at
+Hermitage the Cout's grave is pointed out (Keeldar also shows what
+purports to be the Cout's resting-place). Memories of Mary and Bothwell
+come to us, too, at Hermitage. Here the wounded Warden of the Marches
+was visited by the infatuated Queen, who rode over from Jedburgh to see
+him, returning the same day--a rough roundabout of fifty miles--which
+all but cost her life. Dalhousie's Dungeon, in the north-east tower,
+recalls the tragic end of one of the bravest and best men of his
+time--Sir Alexander Ramsay, of Dalhousie, who was starved to death at
+the instance of Liddesdale's Black Knight, here anything but the "Flower
+of Chivalry." One may wander all over the Hermitage and Liddel valleys
+without ever being free from the romance-feeling which haunts them.
+Relics of the Roman occupation are in abundance on every hillside--
+
+    "Many a cairn's grey pyramid,
+    Where urns of mighty chiefs lie hid."
+
+This was the homeland of the Elliots, "lions of Liddesdale," and the
+sturdy Armstrongs, of the crafty Nixons and Croziers--"thieves all":
+
+    "Fierce as the wolf they rushed to seize their prey:
+    The day was all their night, the night their day."
+
+It is to be regretted that so few of the dozens of clan-strengths which
+at one time studded the district are any longer in evidence. Hartsgarth,
+Roan, (so named from the French Rouen), Redheugh, Mangerton--"Kinmont
+Willie's" Keep--Syde--"He is weel kenned Jock o' the Syde," Copshaw
+Park--the abode of "little Jock Elliot"--Westburnflat--an "Old
+Mortality" name--Whithaugh, Clintwood, Hillhouse, Peel, and
+Thorlieshope, have mostly all disappeared since Scott's day. A
+generation more utilitarian in its tastes has arisen, and the stones
+taken to set up dykes and fill drains. Near the junction of the Liddel
+and Hermitage stood the strongly posted Castle of the "Lords of Lydal,"
+and the important township of Castleton--not unlike the Roxburghs
+between Tweed and Teviot; and, like them also, both have long since
+passed from the things that are. Only the worn pedestal of its
+"mercat-cross" and a lone kirkyard have been left to tell the tale. Two
+miles farther down is the village of Newcastleton, formerly Copshawholm,
+planned by the "good Duke Henry" in 1793, a rising summer resort with a
+population of about a thousand.
+
+We cannot quit Liddesdale without recalling that this is "Dandie
+Dinmont's" Country. In writing "Guy Mannering" Scott drew largely from
+his earlier experiences amongst the honest-souled store-farmers and
+poetry-loving peasants of Liddelside. At Millburn, on the Hermitage, he
+enjoyed the hospitality of kindly Willie Elliot, who stood for the
+"great original" of "Dandie Dinmont."
+
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+PRINTED AND BOUND BY PERCY LUND, HUMPHRIES AND CO., LTD., THE COUNTRY
+PRESS, BRADFORD; AND 3, AMEN CORNER, LONDON, E.C.
+
+
+
+
+           *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+Minor spelling and typographical errors have been corrected without
+note. The missing Plate number for Plate 11 has been re-instated.
+
+
+
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