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diff --git a/31605.txt b/31605.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e7e361 --- /dev/null +++ b/31605.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4412 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cooking Manual of Practical Directions +for Economical Every-Day Cookery, by Juliet Corson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Cooking Manual of Practical Directions for Economical Every-Day Cookery + +Author: Juliet Corson + +Release Date: March 12, 2010 [EBook #31605] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKING MANUAL--EVERY-DAY COOKERY *** + + + + +Produced by David Edwards, Joseph R. Hauser and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + +THE + +COOKING MANUAL + +OF + +PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS FOR ECONOMICAL +EVERY-DAY COOKERY. + + +BY +JULIET CORSON. +SUPERINTENDENT OF THE NEW YORK COOKING SCHOOL. + + +"_How well can we live, if we are moderately poor?_" + + + + +NEW YORK: +DODD, MEAD & COMPANY, +751 BROADWAY. +1877. + + + + +COPYRIGHT + +BY JULIET CORSON + +1877. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +This book is intended for the use of those housekeepers and cooks who +wish to know how to make the most wholesome and palatable dishes at the +least possible cost. In cookery this fact should be remembered above all +others; A GOOD COOK NEVER WASTES. It is her pride to make the most of +everything in the shape of food entrusted to her care; and her pleasure +to serve it in the most appetizing form. In no other way can she prove +her excellence; for poor cooks are always wasteful and extravagant. + +Housekeepers can safely make this book a guide for those of their cooks +who are willing to learn new and good methods of cooking familiar foods. +Lest it should be said that undue preference is given to foreign ways of +cooking, the author begs her readers to remember how much of the success +of any dish depends upon its taste; if it is well-flavored, and +palatably seasoned, the eaters of it do not closely criticise its +component parts. It is just there that benefit is derived from European +culinary skill; the judicious use of a few inexpensive sweet herbs, and +savory sauces, will raise a side dish, made from the cheapest cut of +meat, in gustatory excellence far above a badly cooked porterhouse +steak, or a large but poorly flavored roast. Because the art of +utilizing every part of food is eminently French, the NEW YORK COOKING +SCHOOL plan has been to adapt foreign thrift to home kitchen use. To +provide enough at each meal; to cook and serve it so as to invite +appetite; to make a handsome and agreeable dish out of the materials +which the average cook would give away at the door, or throw among the +garbage; all are accomplishments that our American wives and daughters +will be glad to learn from their European sisters. + +The day has passed for regarding cooking as a menial and vulgar labor; +and those who give some thought to their daily food usually gain in +vigor and cheerfulness. It is a truism that food is concentrated force. +The manipulation of a motive power capable of invigorating both body and +mind, is an occupation worthy to employ intelligence and skill. In +countries where the people depend upon meagre supplies this art is +brought to perfection. The _pot-au-feu_ of France and Switzerland, the +_olla podrida_ of Spain, the _borsch_ of Poland, the _tschi_ of Russia, +the _macaroni_ of Italy, the _crowdie_ of Scotland, all are practical +examples of this fact. In no country in the world is there such an +abundance of food as in America; all the needful ingredients for making +these national dishes, or their equivalents, can be found in the markets +of our cities, and most of them are the products of this country. This +being true, there is no reason why American cookery should be so +comparatively limited--why the question of "what shall we have for +dinner to-day?" should be the despair of the inexperienced housekeeper. +If in no other land is there such profusion of food, certainly in none +is so much wasted from sheer ignorance, and spoiled by bad cooking. In +Europe provinces would live upon what towns waste here. The very herbs +of the field in the hands of a skilful cook can be transformed into +palatable and nutritious viands. The plainest and cheapest materials can +be prepared for the table in an appetizing and satisfactory form. Let +our readers test this fact by cooking according to the receipt any dish +named in the chapter upon "CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT," and the author +will stake her culinary reputation that the food so prepared will be +both palatable and nourishing. + +Many persons regard the practice of serving several dishes at a meal as +troublesome and expensive. The first objection may hold good; but the +best results in any direction are never gained without trouble. The +second is wholly untenable; soup, fish, vegetables, and bread, are all +less costly than heavy joints of meat; if hunger can be partly satisfied +on them, and it is true that a thick slice of bread and a bowl of soup +will content the hungriest stomach, less meat will be required, and +consequently less expense incurred. This is an excellent reason why the +housewife should not spend the bulk of her market money on a large roast +of beef, or a leg of mutton, but should rather divide the amount among +the different dishes of soup, fish, a _ragout_, or stew of some cheap +cut of meat, and a few vegetables; and now and then indulge in a plain +pudding, or a little fruit for dessert. With judicious marketing and +proper cooking, the food of our well-to-do classes might be made far +better than two-thirds of that now served on the tables of the wealthy; +and the poor might learn that their scrag-end of mutton would furnish +them with at least three dishes. To forward in some measure this result, +the present collection of COOKING SCHOOL receipts is offered to the +public, with the assurance that every one given has been tested by the +author, and is complete in every detail, as economical as care and use +can make it, and plain enough for ordinary households. The quantities +mentioned in the various receipts are calculated to serve for a family +of eight persons, when two or more dishes constitute a dinner, with the +addition of soup; of course when only one dish is to form the meal, with +bread and vegetables, a larger quantity must be allowed. + +Communications from all parts of the country state that the principles +of kitchen economy as taught in the NEW YORK COOKING SCHOOL and widely +disseminated by the press, have been put into practice in many families, +to the great improvement of health and temper; for an illy fed man can +neither be strong nor cheerful; the hours spent at table should be full +of harmony and content, or the meal will fail to meet the requirements +of the body. The question of the hour is "How well can we live, if we +are moderately poor?" The author of THE COOKING SCHOOL MANUAL is doing +her best to answer it satisfactorily. She has worked earnestly in a +comparatively new field of labor, and she prays that strong hands may +unite in the effort to show how excellent a thing it is to make the best +and most of the bountiful supply our country's teeming bosom bears at +every harvest tide. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +CHAPTER I. + +GENERAL RULES FOR MARKETING. + + PAGE + + Meats--Poultry--Game--Fish--Vegetables--Fruit--Sweet Herbs 15 + + +CHAPTER II. + +SOUP. + + General Stock--Flavoring, thickening, and coloring + Soups--Consomme--Vermicelli and Macaroni Soup--Rice and + Tomato Soup--Scotch Broth without Meat--Scotch Broth with + Meat--Spinach Soup--Sorrel Soup--Pea Soup--Lentil Soup 22 + + +CHAPTER III. + +Fish. + + Baked Blackfish--Broiled Shad with _Maitre d'hotel_ Butter-- + Fried Smelts--Fillet of Sole _au gratin_--Fish Chowder, St. + James style--Club House Fish Cakes--Sardine Sandwiches-- + Warmed up Boiled Fish, with Dutch Sauce 31 + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RELISHES. + + Anchovies--Sardines--Pickled Herrings--Scalloped Oysters-- + Welsh Rarebit--Golden Buck--Mock Crab--English Bread and + Butter--Epicurean Butter 37 + + +CHAPTER V. + +SIDE DISHES OR ENTREES. + + Beef Steak, with Parisian Potatoes--Plain Rump Steak-- + Portuguese Beef--Bubble and Squeak--Stewed Kidneys--Haricot + or Stew of Mutton--Epigramme of Lamb with Piquante Sauce-- + Spanish Sauce--Kromeskys with Spanish Sauce--Sheep's Tongues + with Spinach--Broiled Sheep's Kidneys--Liver Rolls--Fried + Brains with Tomato Sauce--Calf's Liver larded--Blanquette of + Veal--Stuffed Breast of Veal--Pork Cutlets with Robert + Sauce--Pork Chops with Curry--Broiled Pigs' Feet--English + Pork Pie--Fried Chicken, Spanish Style--Chicken + Fricassee--Grilled Fowl--Minced Chicken with + Macaroni--Broiled Pigeons--Salmi of Duck--Civet of + Hare--Jugged Hare--Stuffed Eggs--How to make Omelettes-- + Plain Omelette--Omelette with fine Herbs--Omelette with Ham-- + Omelette with Oysters--Omelette with Mushrooms--Spanish + Omelette--Oriental Omelette--Omelette with Preserves--How to + cook Macaroni--Macaroni with Bechamel Sauce--Macaroni + Milanaise Style--Macaroni with Tomato Sauce--Timbale of + Macaroni, with Vanilla Cream Sauce 41 + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LARGE ROASTS. + + Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding--Roast Loin of Veal + stuffed--Roast Lamb with Mint Sauce--Roast Pork with Apple + Sauce--Roast Turkey with Cranberry Sauce--Roast Chicken with + Duchesse Potatoes--Roast Duck with Watercresses--Roast Goose + with Onion Sauce--Roast Wild Duck--Roast Partridge with Bread + Sauce 68 + + +CHAPTER VII. + +BOILED MEATS. + + Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce--Boiled Ham with Madeira + Sauce--_A la mode_ Beef--Boiled Fowl with Oyster Sauce 78 + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +SALADS AND SALAD SAUCES. + + Spring Salad--Watercress Salad--Mint Salad--Cauliflower + Salad--Dandelion Salad--Asparagus Salad--Shad-roe + Salad--Green Pea Salad--Orange Salad--Spinach Salad--Tomato + Salad--Nasturtium Salad--Cream Dressing--English Salad + Sauce--Remolade--Sweet Sauce--Piquante Salad Sauce--Green + Remolade--Oil Sauce--Ravigote Sauce--Egg Dressing--Anchovy + Salad Sauce--Swiss Dressing--Spring Dressing--Mayonnaise--Hot + Salad Sauce--Romaine Salad Dressing 83 + + +CHAPTER IX. + +VEGETABLES. + + Asparagus with Melted Butter--Green Peas--String Beans--Baked + Beets--Brussels Sprouts--Stuffed Cabbage--Red Cabbage--Baked + Cauliflower--Baked Turnips--Glazed Onions--Mushroom + Pudding--Boiled Potatoes--Lyonnaise Potatoes--Stuffed + Potatoes--Potato Snow--Bermuda Potatoes--Broiled + Potatoes--Saratoga Potatoes--Broiled Tomatoes--Stuffed + Tomatoes--Fried Beans--Ham and Beans--Kolcannon--Carrot + Stew--Baked Mushrooms--Stuffed Lettuce--Stewed Parsnips 91 + + +CHAPTER X. + +CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT. + + Potato Soup--Crowdie--Peas-pudding--Red Herrings with Boiled + Potatoes--Oatmeal Porridge--Cheese Pudding--Polenta--Fish + Pudding--Lentils--Stewed Lentils--Fried Lentils--Norfolk + Dumplings--Salt Cod with Parsnips--Pickled Mackerel--Potato + Pudding 101 + + +CHAPTER XI. + +CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT. + + Three Dishes from a Neck of Mutton--Barley Broth with + Vegetables--Mutton Stew--Fried Pudding--Neck of Pork + Stuffed--Pigs' Feet Fried--Pigs' Tongue and Brains--Roast + Tripe--Ragout of Haslet--Cock-a-leeky--Italian Cheese--Gammon + Dumpling--Toad-in-the-hole--Bacon Roly-Poly--Baked + Ox-heart--Tripe and Onions--Peas and + Bacon--Pot-au-Feu--Ragout of Mutton 107 + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. + + Oatmeal Porridge--A good Breakfast--Stewed Fruit--Ripe + Currants--Blackberry Jam--Baked Fruit--Broiled + Chops--Beefsteak--Broiled Chicken--Boiled Eggs--Baked + Potatoes--Boiled Potatoes--Apple Cake--Fruit Farina--Plain + Cookies--Plain Gingerbread--Strawberry Shortcake--Apple + Custard 116 + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. + + Gruels--Arrowroot Gruel--Arrowroot Jelly--Arrowroot Wine + Jelly--Calf's-foot Jelly--Sago Gruel--Sago Milk--Tapioca + Jelly--Rice Caudle--Refreshing Drinks--Filtered Water--Jelly + Water--Flaxseed Lemonade--Barley Water--Nourishing + Drinks--Iceland Moss--Chocolate--Egg Broth--Egg Tea--Very + Strong Beef Tea--Quick Beef Tea--Farina Gruel--Nutritious + Foods--Bread Jelly--Crackers and Marmalade--Chicken + Jelly--Chicken Broth--Beefsteak Juice--Salmon Steak--Broiled + Oysters 125 + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +BREAD. + + Aerated Homemade Bread--Homebrewed Yeast--Homemade + Bread--Milk Bread--Rice Bread--Potato Bread--Pulled + Bread--Baking Powder--Loaf Bread--Breakfast Rolls--Tea + Biscuit--Finger Biscuit--Cream Breakfast Rolls--Breakfast + Twist--How to freshen stale Bread--Toast 134 + + + + +THE COOKING MANUAL. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +MARKETING. + + +In order to market intelligently and economically, we must bear in mind +the three great divisions of foods generally accepted in their +consideration, and endeavor to adapt them to the requirements of our +households; if we remember that carbonaceous, or heat-giving foods, such +as the inner part of the cereals, fat meat, milk, honey, liver, grapes, +peas, beans, potatoes, beets, carrots, and parsnips, are the best diet +for hard steady workers, and for invalids suffering from wasting +diseases; that nitrogenous, or flesh-forming foods, such as lean meat, +unbolted flour, oatmeal, eggs, cheese, cabbage, cauliflower, onions, +spinach, asparagus, and artichokes, are most suitable for those who work +rapidly but with intervals of rest; and that brain-workers should +subsist chiefly on light and digestible articles, such as fish, oysters, +fruits, game, and vegetables containing mineral salts in excess; we can +arrange the daily marketing so as to give a pleasant variety and at the +same time satisfy all appetites. + +Buy only small quantities of perishable things such as green +vegetables, fruit, fish, eggs, cream, and fresh butter; buy dry +groceries and preserved stores in quantities large enough to entitle you +to wholesale prices; and pay cash in order to avail yourself of the +lowest market price. Make your purchases as early in the day as possible +in order to secure a choice of fresh articles; and trade with +respectable dealers who give full weight and honest measure. + +=Meats.=--While meats are in season all the year, they are better at +stated times; for instance, pork is prime in late autumn and winter; +veal should be avoided in summer for sanitary reasons; and even our +staples, beef and mutton, vary in quality. The flesh of healthy animals +is hard and fresh colored, the fat next the skin is firm and thick, and +the suet or kidney-fat clear white and abundant; if this fat is soft, +scant and stringy, the animal has been poorly fed or overworked. Beef +should be of a bright red color, well marbled with yellowish fat, and +surrounded with a thick outside layer of fat; poor beef is dark red, and +full of gristle, and the fat is scant and oily. Mutton is bright red, +with plenty of hard white fat; poor mutton is dull red in color, with +dark, muddy-looking fat. Veal and pork should be bright flesh color with +abundance of hard, white, semi-transparent fat; when the fat is reddish +and dark, the meat is of an inferior quality; veal and pork should be +eaten very fresh. When meat of any kind comes into the house it should +be hung up at once in some cool, dark place, and left until wanted. + +=Poultry.=--Fresh poultry may be known by its full bright eyes, pliable +feet, and soft moist skin; the best is plump, fat, and nearly white, and +the grain of the flesh is fine. The feet and neck of a young fowl are +large in proportion to its size, and the tip of the breast-bone is soft, +and easily bent between the fingers; the body of a capon is large, fat, +and round, the head comparatively small, and the comb pale and withered; +a young cock, has short, loose, soft spurs, and a long, full, bright red +comb; old fowls have long, thin necks and feet, and the flesh on the +legs and back has a purplish shade; chickens, capons, and fowls, are +always in season. + +Turkeys when good are white and plump, have full breasts and smooth +legs, generally black, with soft, loose spurs; hen turkeys are smaller, +fatter, and plumper, but of inferior flavor; full grown turkeys are the +best for boning and boiling, as they do not tear in dressing; old +turkeys have long hairs, and the flesh is purplish where it shows under +the skin on the legs and back. About March they deteriorate in quality. +Turkey-poults are tender, but lack flavor. + +Young ducks and geese are plump, with light, semi-transparent fat, soft +breast-bone, tender flesh, leg joints which will break by the weight of +the bird, fresh colored and brittle beaks, and windpipes that break when +pressed between the thumb and fore-finger. They are best in fall and +winter. + +Young pigeons have light red flesh upon the breast, and full, fresh +colored legs; when the legs are thin, and the breast is very dark, the +birds are old. Squabs are tender and delicious. + +The giblets of poultry consist of the head, neck, wings, feet, gizzard, +heart, and liver; and make good soup, fricassees, pies, and various +_entrees_, or side dishes. + +=Game.=--Fine game birds are always heavy for their size; the flesh of the +breast is firm and plump, the skin clear; and if a few feathers be +plucked from the inside of the leg and around the vent, the flesh of +freshly killed birds will be fat and fresh colored; if it is dark, and +discolored, the game has been hung a long time. The wings of good ducks, +geese, pheasants, and woodcock are tender to the touch; the tips of the +long wing feathers of partridges are pointed in young birds, and round +in old ones. Quail, snipe, and small birds should have full tender +breasts. + +Young rabbits and hares have short necks, thick knees, and forepaws +which can be easily broken; old ones are very poor. + +Buffalo meat is somewhat similar in appearance to beef, save that the +flesh is darker, and the fat redder; it is tender and juicy when it has +been kept long enough, say about two months in winter; the tongue, when +cured, is excellent. + +Venison should be tender, and very fat, or it will be dry and tasteless. + +Bear meat, when fat and tender, is savory and nourishing. + +=Fish.=--Sea fish, and those which live in both salt and fresh water, such +as salmon, shad, and smelts, are the finest flavored; the muddy taste of +some fresh water species can be overcome by soaking them in cold water +and salt for two hours or more before cooking; all kinds are best just +before spawning, the flesh becoming poor and watery after that period. +Fresh fish have firm flesh, rigid fins, bright, clear eyes, and ruddy +gills. + +Oysters, clams, scallops, and mussels, should be eaten very fresh, as +they soon lose their flavor after being removed from the shell. + +Lobsters and crabs should be chosen by their brightness of color, lively +movement, and great weight in proportion to their size. + +=Vegetables.=--All juicy vegetables should be very fresh and crisp; and if +a little wilted, can be restored by being sprinkled with water and laid +in a cool, dark place; all roots and tubers should be pared and laid in +cold water an hour or more before using. Green vegetables are best just +before they flower; and roots and tubers are prime from their ripening +until spring germination begins. + +=Fruit.=--All fruit should be purchased ripe and sound; it is poor economy +to buy imperfect or decayed kinds, as they are neither satisfactory nor +healthy eating; while the mature, full-flavored sorts are invaluable as +food. + +=Sweet Herbs.=--Sweet and savory herbs are absolutely indispensable to +good cooking; they give variety and savory flavors to any dish into +which they enter, and are nearly all of some decided sanitary use; the +different kinds called for in the various receipts further on in this +work can be bought at almost any grocery store, or in the market; but +we advise our readers to obtain seeds from some good florist and make +little kitchen gardens of their own, even if the space planted be only a +box of mould in the kitchen window. Sage, thyme, summer savory, sweet +marjoram, tarragon, sweet basil, rosemary, mint, burnet, chervil, dill, +and parsley, will grow abundantly with very little care; and when dried, +and added judiciously to food, greatly improve its flavor. Parsley, +tarragon and fennel, should be dried in May, June, and July, just before +flowering; mint in June and July; thyme, marjoram, and savory in July +and August; basil and sage in August and September; all herbs should be +gathered in the sunshine, and dried by artificial heat; their flavor is +best preserved by keeping them in air-tight tin cans. + +Bay leaves can be procured at any drug store, or German grocery, at a +very moderate expense; they have the flavor of laurel. + +An excellent and convenient spice-salt can be made by drying, powdering, +and mixing by repeated siftings the following ingredients: one quarter +of an ounce each of powdered thyme, bay leaf, and pepper; one eighth of +an ounce each of rosemary, marjoram, and cayenne pepper, or powdered +capsicums; one half of an ounce each of powdered clove and nutmeg; to +every four ounces of this powder add one ounce of salt, and keep the +mixture in an air-tight vessel. One ounce of it added to three pounds of +stuffing, or forcemeat of any kind, makes a delicious seasoning. + +=A bouquet of Sweet herbs.=--The bouquet, or fagot, of sweet herbs, so +often called for in foreign cooking, is made as follows: wash three or +four sprigs of parsley, lay in their midst one sprig of thyme, and two +bay leaves; fold the parsley over the thyme and bay leaves, tie it in a +cork-shaped roll, about three inches long and one inch thick. The +bouquet is used for seasoning soups, sauces, stews, and savory dishes in +general, and is removed when the dish is served. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +SOUPS. + + +=Soup= is the most satisfactory and nourishing of all dishes when it is +properly made. Its value depends upon what is put into it, but even in +its most economical form it constitutes a hearty meal when eaten with +bread and vegetables. It can be made from the merest scraps and +trimmings of meat; from the heads, tails, and feet of animals; from the +bones and skin of fish; and from cereals and vegetables alone. Pot +liquor in which meat has been boiled should always be saved and used for +soup the next day, when by the removal of all fat, by careful skimming, +and the addition of a few vegetables or some dumplings, rice, or +macaroni, it will make a palatable broth. Experiments made by French +chemists prove that the delicacy and richness of soup may be increased +by first soaking the meat in tepid water enough to cover it, and adding +this to the second water in which the meat is put over the fire, just as +it reaches the boiling point. + +1. =General Stock.=--PART I.--Where there is a family of any size it is +well to keep a clean pot or sauce-pan on the back of the stove to +receive all the clean scraps of meat, bones, and remains of poultry and +game, which are found in every kitchen; but vegetables should not be put +into it, as they are apt to sour. The proper proportions for soup are +one pound of meat and bone to one and a half quarts of cold water; the +meat and bones to be well chopped and broken up, and put over the fire +in cold water, being brought slowly to a boil, and carefully skimmed as +often as any scum rises; and being maintained at a steady boiling point +from two to six hours, as time permits; one hour before the stock is +done, add to it one carrot and one turnip pared, one onion stuck with +three cloves, and a bouquet of sweet herbs. + +PART II.--When the soup is to be boiled six hours, two quarts of cold +water must be allowed to every pound of meat; this will be reduced to +one quart in boiling. Two gills of soup are usually allowed for each +person at table when it is served as the first part of the dinner, and +meats are to follow it. Care should be taken that the stock-pot boils +slowly and constantly, from one side, as rapid and irregular boiling +clouds and darkens the stock as much as imperfect skimming. Stock should +never be allowed to cool in the stock-pot, but should be strained into +an earthen jar, and left standing to cool uncovered, and all the fat +removed, and saved to clarify for drippings; the stock is then ready to +heat and use for soup, or gravy. When stock has been darkened and +clouded by careless skimming and fast boiling, it can be clarified by +adding to it one egg and the shell, mixed first with a gill of cold +water, then with a gill of boiling soup, and stirring it briskly into +the soup until it boils; then remove it to the back of the fire where it +will not boil, and let it stand until the white and shell of the egg +have collected the small particles clouding the soup; then strain it +once or twice, until it looks clear. + +2. =Flavoring, thickening, and coloring soups.=--The flavor of soup stock +may be varied by using in it a little ham, anchovy, sausage, sugar, or a +calf's foot. Herbs in the sprig, and whole spices should be used in +seasoning, as they can easily be strained out. All delicate flavors, and +wine, should be added to soup just before serving it, unless the +contrary is expressly directed in the receipt, because boiling would +almost entirely evaporate them: one gill of wine is usually allowed to +every three pints of soup. + +Soups which precede a full dinner should be less rich than those which +form the bulk of the meal. Corn starch, arrow root, and potato flour are +better than wheat flour for thickening soup. The meal of peas and beans +can be held in suspension by mixing together dry a tablespoonful of +butter and flour, and stirring it into the soup; a quarter of a pint of +peas, beans, or lentils, is sufficient to make a quart of thick soup. +Two ounces of macaroni, vermicelli, pearl barley, sago, tapioca, rice, +or oatmeal, are usually allowed for each quart of stock. + +If you wish to darken soup use a teaspoonful of caramel; but avoid burnt +flour, carrot, and onion, as all these give a bad flavor. Caramel can be +made from the following receipt; melt half a pound of loaf sugar in a +thick copper vessel, stirring it frequently with a wooden spoon, and +boiling it slowly until it assumes a rich brown color, but do not let it +burn; when brown enough add one quart of cold water, stir well, and boil +gently at the side of the fire for twenty minutes; then cool, strain, +and bottle tight. In using the caramel add it just as you are about to +serve the soup, or sauce colored with it. + +3. =Clear Soup, or Consomme.= (_Two quarts for eight persons._)--This is +made by straining two quarts of stock, which has been cooled and freed +from fat, through a piece of flannel or a napkin until it is bright and +clear; if this does not entirely clear it, use an egg, as directed for +clarifying soup; then season it to taste with salt, using at first a +teaspoonful, and a very little fine white pepper, say a quarter of a +saltspoonful; and color it to a bright straw color with caramel, of +which a scant teaspoonful will be about the proper quantity. _Consomme_ +is sent to the table clear, but sometimes a deep dish containing poached +eggs, one for each person, with enough _consomme_ to cover them, +accompanies it. + +4. =Poached Eggs for Consomme.=--Break the eggs, which should be very +fresh, into a deep sauce-pan half full of boiling water, seasoned with a +teaspoonful of salt, and half a gill of vinegar; cover the sauce-pan, +and set it on the back part of the fire until the whites of the eggs are +firm; then lift them separately on a skimmer, carefully trim off the +rough edges, making each egg a regular oval shape, and slip them off the +skimmer into a bowl of hot, but not boiling water, where they must +stand for ten minutes before serving. + +5. =Vermicelli and Macaroni Soup.=--These soups are both made as for +_consomme_; and to every quart of stock is added two ounces of one of +these pastes blanched as follows. Put the paste into plenty of boiling +water, with one tablespoonful of salt to each quart of water, and boil +until tender enough to pierce with the finger nail; then drain it, and +put it in cold water until required for use, when it should be placed in +the two quarts of hot soup long enough to heat thoroughly before +serving. + +6. =Rice and Tomato Soup.=--Strain, and pass through a sieve with a wooden +spoon, one pint of tomatoes, either fresh or canned, stir them into two +quarts of good, clear stock, free from fat; season it with a teaspoonful +of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; taste, and if the +seasoning seems deficient add a little more, but do not put in too much +for general liking, for more can easily be added, but none can be taken +out. Add four ounces of rice, well washed in plenty of cold water, and +boil the soup slowly for three quarters of an hour before serving. + +7. =Scotch Broth without Meat.=--Steep four ounces of pearl barley over +night in cold water, and wash it well in fresh water; cut in dice half +an inch square, six ounces of yellow turnip, six ounces of carrot, four +ounces of onion, two ounces of celery, (or use in its place quarter of a +saltspoonful of celery seed;) put all these into two and a half quarts +of boiling water, season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a +saltspoonful of pepper, and as much cayenne as you can take up on the +point of a very small pen-knife blade; boil slowly for two hours; then +stir in quarter of a pound of oatmeal, mixed to a smooth batter with +cold water, see if seasoning be correct, add two or three grates of +nutmeg, and boil half an hour. Meantime, cut two slices of bread in half +inch dice, fry light brown in hot fat, and lay the bits in the soup +tureen; when the soup is ready pour it over them, and serve. This soup +is very rich and nutritious, and should be served with light dinners. + +8. =Scotch Broth with Meat.=--Put four ounces of barley to soak in warm +water. From two pounds of the shoulder of mutton, cut the lean meat in +dice half an inch square; cut up the rest in small pieces and make a +stock as directed in receipt _No. 1._, _Part I._, using two and a half +quarts of water, and boiling and skimming for two hours; at the end of +an hour and a half put the dice of meat into a sauce-pan with two ounces +of butter, and fry them brown; stir in one ounce of flour; cut in dice +six ounces each of yellow turnip and carrot, chop four ounces of onion, +and put these with the meat; add the barley, and the stock strained, +season with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of +pepper, and simmer one hour. Then serve with a tablespoonful of chopped +parsley sprinkled in the soup. + +9. =Spinach Soup.=--Blanch two quarts of spinach, by putting it into a +large pot full of boiling water, with two tablespoonfuls of salt, cover +until it boils up once; then remove the cover, and with a wooden spoon +press the spinach under water as fast as it rises to the surface; boil +it steadily until it is tender enough to pierce easily with the finger +nail; then drain it; run plenty of cold water from the faucet over it, +while it is still in the colander; drain it again, chop it fine, and +pass it through a kitchen sieve with the aid of a wooden spoon; boil two +quarts of milk, add the spinach to it, thicken it by stirring in one +tablespoonful of corn starch dissolved in cold milk; season it with one +teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and the +same of nutmeg; and serve it as soon as it boils up. + +10. =Sorrel Soup.=--Put one pint of sorrel into a sauce-pan with a +dessertspoonful of salt, and one gill of cold water; cover it, and cook +until it is tender enough to pierce with the finger nail, then drain, +wash it well with cold water, chop it and pass it through the kitchen +sieve with a wooden spoon; meantime brown half an ounce of chopped onion +in a sauce-pan with one ounce of butter; add one ounce of flour, and +stir till brown; then add two quarts of hot water, or hot water and +stock, and the sorrel, and season with one teaspoonful of salt, quarter +of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of nutmeg; mix the yolks of +two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of cold water, add to them half a pint +of boiling soup, and gradually stir the mixture into the soup, boiling +it a minute after it is thoroughly blended; meantime cut two slices of +bread into half inch dice, fry them brown in smoking hot fat, drain +them free from grease on a napkin, put them into a soup tureen, pour the +soup on them, and serve at once. + +11. =Pea Soup.=--Use half a pint of dried peas for thick soup, or one pint +for a _puree_, to two quarts of stock or cold water. Bring slowly to a +boil; add a bone or bit of ham, one turnip and one carrot peeled, one +onion stuck with three cloves, and simmer three hours stirring +occasionally to prevent burning; then pass the soup through a sieve with +the aid of a potato masher; and if it shows any sign of settling stir +into it one tablespoonful each of butter and flour mixed together dry; +this will hold the meal in solution; meantime fry some dice of stale +bread, about two slices, cut half an inch square, in hot fat, drain them +on a napkin, and put them in the bottom of the soup tureen in which the +pea soup is served. + +12. =Lentil Soup.=--The seed of the lentil tare commonly cultivated in +France and Germany as an article of food, ranks nearly as high as meat, +as a valuable food, being capable of sustaining life and vigor for a +long time; this vegetable is gradually becoming known in this country, +from the use of it by our French and German citizens; and from its +nutritive value it deserves to rank as high as our favorite New England +beans. For two quarts of lentil soup half a pint of yellow lentils +should be well washed, and put to boil in three pints of cold water, +with a small carrot, an onion, two sprigs of parsley, and two bay +leaves, and boiled gently until the lentils are soft enough to break +easily between the fingers; every half hour one gill of cold water +should be added, and the lentils again raised to the boiling point, +until they are done; they should then be drained in a colander, and +passed through a sieve with a wooden spoon, using enough of the liquor +to make them pass easy, and mixed with the rest of the soup; it is then +ready to simmer for half an hour, and serve hot; with dice of fried +bread half an inch square, like those used for pea soup. These dice of +fried bread are called _Conde_ crusts. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +FISH. + + +When fish is rather deficient in flavor, a little vinegar rubbed over +the skin; and a few sweet herbs boiled with it will greatly improve it. +For boiling, large fish should be placed on the fire in cold water, and +small ones in hot water; both are done when the fins pull out easily. +Fish soup is the most economical of all fish dishes; baked fish the +second best; broiled fish retains nearly all its nourishment; and boiled +fish is the poorest of all. The following technical terms are used to +denote different methods of cooking fish: to dress fish _a la +Hollandaise_ is to boil it in sea water; _a l'eau de sel_, in salt and +water; _au court bouillon_, with cold water, white wine or vinegar, +sweet herbs, soup vegetables, lemon, and whole spices; _a la bonne eau_, +with sweet herbs and cold water; _au bleu_, in equal quantities of red +wine and cold water, highly flavored with spices and aromatic herbs. + +13. =Boiled Cod with Oyster Sauce.=--Lay two pounds of cod in enough cold +water to cover it, with a tablespoonful of salt, for an hour or more +before cooking; then put it to boil in three quarts of cold water, with +two tablespoonfuls of salt; as soon as the fish is done, set the kettle +containing it off the fire, and let the fish stand in it until you are +ready to use it; meantime put a pint of oysters on the fire to boil in +their own liquor; as soon as they boil drain them, and put the liquor +again on the fire to boil; mix together in a sauce-pan over the fire one +ounce of butter and one ounce of flour, as soon as it bubbles, gradually +pour in the boiling oyster liquor, and stir with an egg whip until the +sauce is quite smooth; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, an eighth +of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of nutmeg; and add the +oysters. Take up the fish, serve it on a napkin, and send it to the +table with a bowl containing the oyster sauce. + +14. =Baked Blackfish.=--Have a fish weighing from two to two and a half +pounds cleaned by the fishmonger; rub it well with a handful of salt, to +remove the slime peculiar to this fish, wash it well, and wipe it with a +clean, dry cloth; stuff it with the following forcemeat. Put four ounces +of stale bread to soak in sufficient luke-warm water to cover it; +meantime fry one ounce of chopped onion in one ounce of butter until it +is light brown; then wring the bread dry in a clean towel, put it into +the onion with two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, one ounce of salt +pork chopped fine, one teaspoonful of chopped capers or pickles, one +teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and one +gill of broth or hot water; stir until it is scalding hot, when it will +cleave from the bottom and sides of the sauce-pan; then stuff the fish +with it, and lay it in a dripping pan on one ounce of carrot and one +ounce of onion sliced, one bay leaf and two sprigs of parsley; cover the +fish with slices of salt pork, season it with a saltspoonful of salt, +and one fourth that quantity of pepper, and bake it in a moderate oven +for half an hour, basting it occasionally with a little butter, or +stock. When it is done, put it on a dish to keep hot while you prepare a +sauce by straining the drippings in the pan, and adding to them one +tablespoonful each of walnut catsup, Worcestershire sauce, chopped +capers, and chopped parsley. Pour a little of this sauce in the bottom +of the dish under the fish, and serve the rest with it in a bowl. + +15. =Broiled Shad with Maitre d'hotel butter.=--Choose a medium sized +shad, weighing about three pounds, have it cleaned and split down the +back; turn it occasionally for an hour or more, in a marinade made of +one tablespoonful of salad oil, or melted butter, one of vinegar, a +saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; lay it on +a gridiron, rubbed with a little butter to prevent sticking, broil it +slowly, doing the inside first, and, after laying it on a hot dish, +spread over it some _maitre d'hotel_ butter. + +16. =Maitre d'hotel Butter.=--Mix together cold, one ounce of butter, a +tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and +quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; and spread it over the broiled +shad. This butter is excellent for any kind of broiled fish, or for +steaks. + +17. =Fried Smelts, French Style.=--Carefully wipe two pounds of cleaned +smelts with a dry cloth; dip them in milk, then roll them in finely +powdered cracker crumbs, next in an egg beaten with a saltspoonful of +salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and then again in cracker +crumbs; fry them in enough smoking hot fat to cover them, until they are +golden brown; take them from the fat with a skimmer, lay them on a +napkin, or a piece of paper to absorb all fat; and serve them laid in +rows with a few quarters of lemon on the side of the dish. + +18. =Fillet of Sole au gratin.=--Choose two flounders weighing about three +pounds. Lay them on the table with the dark side uppermost; with a +sharp, thin-bladed knife cut down to the back bone, following the dark +line in the middle of the fish; then turn the edge of the knife outward, +and cut towards the fins, keeping the blade flat against the bone, and +removing one quarter of the flesh of the fish in a single piece; proceed +in the same way until you have eight fillets; carefully cut the skin +from them; season them with salt and pepper, lay them on a buttered dish +suitable to send to table, sprinkle them thickly with sifted cracker +crumbs, and a little grated Parmesan, or any rich, dry cheese; put a few +bits of butter over them, using not more than an ounce in all, and brown +them in a quick oven. Serve them as soon as they are nicely browned. +This is a very savory and delicate dish, requiring some practice to do +nicely, but comparatively inexpensive, and well worth all trouble taken +in making it. + +19. =St. James Fish Chowder.=--Put half a pound of sliced salt pork in +the bottom of a deep sauce-pan and fry it brown; take it out, and put in +layers of potatoes, onions and fish sliced, seasoning each layer +plentifully with salt and pepper; using about three pounds of fish, and +a quart each of potatoes and onions; cover with cold water, bring +gradually to a boil, and cook slowly for thirty minutes; then add two +pounds of sea-biscuits soaked for five minutes in warm water, and boil +five minutes longer and serve. This receipt calls for the addition of +half a pint of port wine, and a bottle of champagne to be added to the +chowder just before serving; but it is quite good enough without, and +far less expensive. + +20. =Club House Fish Cakes.=--Wash and boil one quart of potatoes, putting +them on the fire in cold water enough to cover them, and a tablespoonful +of salt. Put one and a half pounds of salt codfish on the fire in plenty +of cold water, and bring it slowly to a boil; as soon as it boils throw +off that water, and put it again on the fire in fresh cold water; if the +fish is very salt change the water a third time. Free the fish from skin +and bone; peel the potatoes, mash them through a colander with a potato +masher, season them with quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper and an +ounce of butter; add the yolks of two eggs, and the fish; mix well, and +make into cakes, using a little flour to prevent sticking to the hands. +Fry them golden brown in enough smoking hot fat to nearly cover them; +observe that in frying any article of food it will not soak fat if the +latter be hot enough to carbonize the outside at once, and smoking hot +fat will do that. + +21. =Sardine Sandwiches.=--Butter sixteen thin slices of bread on both +sides, put between each two a very thin layer of sardines, sprinkled +with a little lemon juice, and brown them in a quick oven. + +22. =Warmed up boiled fish, with Dutch Sauce.=--Put the cold fish on the +fire in plenty of cold water and salt, and let it come slowly to a boil; +meantime make a sauce for it as follows. + +23. =Dutch Sauce.=--Put one ounce of butter, and one ounce of flour in a +sauce-pan over the fire, and stir constantly until it bubbles; then add +gradually one gill of boiling water, remove the sauce from the fire, +stir in the yolks of three eggs, one at a time, add one saltspoonful of +dry mustard; add one tablespoonful of vinegar and three of oil, +gradually, drop by drop, stirring constantly till smooth. When the fish +is warmed take it up carefully without breaking and serve with the Dutch +sauce in a boat. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +RELISHES. + + +The dishes known as relishes are usually eaten at dinner just after the +soup or fish; they are in reality the restorers of appetite; they are +usually cold, and are sent to the table on small oval dishes, or +ornamental boats. + +24. =Anchovies.= (_One for each person._)--The best anchovies are small +and plump, with white scales, and dark red pickle; they are prepared for +the table by soaking two hours in cold water, taking out the back-bone, +removing the scales and some of the small bones, and serving them with +oil or vinegar in a suitable dish, or pickle shell. + +25. =Sardines.= (_One for each person._)--Sardines are served by wiping +them, and serving them on a small dish with quarters of lemons beside +them. + +26. =Pickled Herrings.= (_One for each person._)--These are served in a +boat with a few capers, and a little chopped parsley sprinkled over +them. + +27. =Scalloped Oysters.= (_One shell for each person._)--Blanch one quart +of oysters by bringing just to a boil in their own liquor, then strain +them, saving the liquor, and keeping it hot; wash them in cold water and +drain them; mix one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour together in +a sauce-pan over the fire; as soon as it is smooth gradually stir in one +pint of the oyster liquor, which must be boiling; season the sauce with +half a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful each of white +pepper and nutmeg; put the oysters into it to heat, while you thoroughly +wash eight or ten deep oystershells with a brush; fill them with the +oysters, dust them thickly with bread crumbs; put a small bit of butter +on each one, and brown them in a quick oven; they should be sent to the +table laid on a napkin neatly folded on a platter. + +28. =Welsh Rarebit.=--Grate one pound of rich cheese, mix it over the fire +with one gill of ale, working it smooth with a spoon; season it with a +saltspoonful of dry mustard; meantime make two large slices of toast, +lay them on a hot dish, and as soon as the cheese is thoroughly melted, +pour it over the toast and send it to the table at once. + +29. =Golden Buck.=--Prepare the cheese and toast as in receipt No. 28; cut +the toast in eight pieces; while the cheese is melting poach eight eggs, +by dropping them gently into plenty of boiling water containing a +teaspoonful of salt, and half a gill of vinegar; as soon as the whites +are firm, take them carefully out on a skimmer, trim off the edges, and +slip them again into warm water, while you divide the cheese on the +pieces of toast; then lay an egg on each piece, and serve at once. The +success of the dish depends upon having the eggs, cheese, and toast +ready at the same moment, putting them together very quickly, and +serving them before they cool. + +30. =Mock Crab.=--Break up half a pound of soft, rich cheese with a fork, +mix with it a teaspoonful of dry mustard, a saltspoonful of salt, half a +saltspoonful of pepper, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar; serve it cold, +with a plate of thin bread and butter, or crisp crackers. + +31. =English bread and butter.=--Cut an even slice off a large loaf of +fresh homemade bread; butter the cut end of the loaf thinly, then hold +it against the side with the left hand and arm, and with a sharp, thin +knife, cut an even slice not more than an eighth of an inch thick; a +little practice, and a steady grasp of bread and knife, will enable any +one to produce regular whole slices; fold each one double, with the +butter inside; and cut as many as you require; serve them on a clean +napkin, and send them to the table with any other of the above relishes. + +32. =Cheese Straws.=--Sift six ounces of flour on the pastry board, make a +hole or well in the centre; into this well put two tablespoonfuls of +cream, three ounces of grated Parmesan, or any rich dry cheese, four +ounces of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a teaspoonful +of white pepper, and the same quantity of grated nutmeg, together with +as much cayenne as you can take up on the point of a very small +pen-knife blade; mix all these ingredients with the tips of the ringers, +to a firm paste, knead it well, roll it out an eighth of an inch thick; +and with a sharp knife, or pastry jagger, cut it in straws about eight +inches long, and quarter of an inch wide; lay the strips carefully on a +buttered tin, and bake them light straw color in a moderate oven. These +cheese straws make a delicious accompaniment to salad. + +33. =Epicurean Butter.=--Bone and skin four anchovies or sardines, and +chop them fine; chop a tablespoonful of chives, and the same quantity of +tarragon leaves, four small green pickles, the yolks of two hard boiled +eggs; mix with these ingredients, a level teaspoonful of French mustard, +a saltspoonful of salt, and two ounces of sweet butter; pass them all +through a fine sieve with the aid of a wooden spoon; put it on the ice +to cool, and then mould it in balls the size of a walnut, by rolling +small lumps between two little wooden paddles; serve it with crackers +and cheese. + +These receipts are given because many persons call for them; the author +begs leave to accompany them with the assurance that a prolonged diet of +any of them will produce a well grounded dyspepsia in a very moderate +length of time. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +SIDE DISHES, OR ENTREES. + + +The multitude of dishes known as _entrees_, represent to a great extent +the economical use of food for which the French are so celebrated; they +are based upon the principles of suitable combination. Usage has classed +certain sorts of food together as fit adjuncts; for instance, _bon +vivants_ instruct us that white sauces and light wines are the best +accompaniments for fish, poultry, and the white meats; and that brown +sauces, and rich, heavy wines, naturally follow with the dark meats and +game. These general principles readily apply to the preparation of the +numberless made dishes which are the glory of European cookery, and +which transform the remains of an ordinary meat breakfast into a +delicious luncheon, or an inviting side-dish for dinner. The fact that +the secret of all good cookery is economy, must be our apology for +treating this division of our subject at some length; and we beg our +readers to test our receipts before accusing us of attempting to +introduce obnoxious and difficult culinary methods into American +kitchens. + +34. =How Meat should be Broiled.=--In broiling all meats, you must +remember that the surface should not be cut or broken any more than is +absolutely necessary; that the meat should be exposed to a clear, quick +fire, close enough to sear the surface without burning, in order to +confine all its juices; if it is approached slowly to a poor fire, or +seasoned before it is cooked, it will be comparatively dry and +tasteless, as both of these processes are useful only to extract and +waste those precious juices which contain nearly all the nourishing +properties of the meat. + +35. =Parisian Potatoes.=--Pare and cut one quart of raw potatoes in balls +the size of a walnut, reserving the trimmings to use for mashed +potatoes; put the balls over the fire in plenty of cold water and salt, +and boil them until just tender enough to pierce easily with a fork; +which will be in about fifteen minutes; drain them, lay them on a towel +a moment to dry them, and then brown them in enough smoking hot lard to +immerse them entirely; when they are brown take them up in a colander, +and sprinkle them with a saltspoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of +chopped parsley. + +36. =To broil a Beefsteak.=--Rub the bars of the gridiron smooth, and then +grease them slightly; lay on a sirloin steak weighing about three +pounds; put the gridiron over a hot fire; if the fire is not clear throw +a handful of salt into it to clear it; broil the steak, turning it +frequently so that it cannot burn, until it is done to the required +degree; do not cut into it to ascertain this, but test it by pressing +the tips of the fingers upon it; if it spring up again after the +pressure is removed it is done rare; if it remains heavy and solid it is +well done; while it is broiling prepare a _maitre d'hotel_ butter +according to receipt No. 16; spread it over the steak after you have +laid it on a hot dish, and arrange the _Parisian potatoes_ at the sides +of the dish; send it to the table at once. After the proper cooking of a +steak comes the immediate eating thereof, if it is to be found perfect. + +37. =Plain Rump Steak.=--Broil three pounds of tender rump steak according +to directions in receipt No. 36, put it on a hot dish, season it with a +level teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, +spread over it one ounce of butter, and lay two tablespoonfuls of grated +horseradish on the side of the platter, and serve it hot, without delay. + +38. =Portuguese Beef.=--Cut in thin shavings two pounds of cold beef, and +put it into a sauce-pan with half a pint of any brown gravy, and heat it +gradually; in another pan put one small onion chopped fine, the rind of +one orange chopped, the juice, quarter of a saltspoonful of grated +nutmeg, as much cayenne as can be taken up on the point of a very small +pen-knife blade, and one gill of port wine; boil these ingredients +rapidly until the liquid is reduced one half, and then mix them with the +beef; fry in hot fat some slices of bread, cut in the shape of hearts, +about two inches long and one inch wide, pile the beef in a mound on a +hot dish, lay the _croutons_ of fried bread around it, and serve it +hot. + +39. =Bubble and Squeak.=--Cut about two pounds of cold meat in neat +slices, put them into a pan with an ounce of butter, and brown them; at +the same time chop one head of tender cabbage, without the stalks, put +it into a sauce-pan with two ounces of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, +and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and stir it occasionally over +the fire until it is quite tender; when both are done, lay the slices of +beef in the centre of a hot dish, and arrange the cabbage around it; +serve it hot. + +40. =Stewed Kidneys.=--Cut one large beef kidney in thin slices about an +inch long; fry two ounces of onion in one ounce of butter, until pale +yellow; add the kidney, fry or rather _sauter_ it, for about five +minutes, shaking the pan frequently to prevent burning; then stir in one +ounce and a half of flour, season with one saltspoonful of salt, a +quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of powdered sweet +herbs made as directed on page 20, and one gill of boiling water; cook +ten minutes longer; meantime make eight heart-shaped _croutons_ of +bread, as directed in receipt No. 38; add one gill of Madeira wine to +the kidneys, pour them on a hot dish, sprinkle them with a teaspoonful +of chopped parsley, arrange the _croutons_ around the border of the +dish, and serve hot at once. The success of this dish depends on serving +it while the kidneys are tender; too much cooking hardens them; and they +must not be allowed to stand after they are done, or they deteriorate. + +41. =Haricot or Stew of Mutton.=--Trim a neck of mutton, weighing about +two pounds, of all superfluous fat, cut it into cutlets, put them in a +deep sauce-pan with one ounce of butter, and fry them brown; pour off +all fat, add two ounces of flour, stir till brown, moisten with one +quart and a half of stock, or water, and stir occasionally until the +haricot boils; meantime cut one quart of carrots and turnips, half and +half, in small balls, and add them, with one dozen button onions, a +bouquet of sweet herbs, half a saltspoonful of pepper, and a teaspoonful +of salt; simmer for one hour; take up the cutlets with a fork, skim out +the vegetables, and remove the bouquet; lay the cutlets in a wreath on a +hot dish, place the vegetables in the centre, and strain the gravy over +all. Green peas, new turnips, or new potatoes, may replace the first +named vegetables. The dish should always be sent to the table hot. + +42. =Epigramme of Lamb, with Piquante Sauce.=--Boil a breast of young +mutton, weighing from two to three pounds until tender, either in the +stock-pot, or in hot water seasoned with salt, two cloves stuck in a +small onion, and a bouquet of sweet herbs made as directed in the first +chapter; when it is tender enough to permit the bones to be drawn out +easily, take it up, lay it on a pan, put another, containing weights, on +it, and press it until it is cold; then cut it in eight triangular +pieces, about the size of a small cutlet; season them with salt and +pepper; roll them first in sifted cracker dust, then in an egg beaten +with a tablespoonful of cold water, and again in cracker dust; fry them +light brown in enough smoking hot fat to cover them. + +43. =Piquante Sauce.=--While the lamb is frying, chop one tablespoonful of +capers, two of shallot, or small, finely flavored onion, and the same +quantity of green gherkins; place them over the fire in a sauce-pan with +one gill of vinegar, two bay leaves, quarter of a saltspoonful of +pepper, and the same of powdered thyme, and boil quickly until the +vinegar is reduced to one third of its original quantity; then add half +a pint of rich brown gravy of any kind, or of Spanish sauce, which may +always be kept on hand; boil the sauce gently for five minutes, take out +the bay leaves, and pour a little of the sauce on the bottom of a hot +platter; when the pieces of breast are brown, take them up with a +skimmer, and lay them on soft paper, or on a clean napkin for a moment, +to free them from grease, and arrange them in a wreath on the platter +containing the sauce; serve them at once, with the rest of the sauce in +a gravy boat. + +44. =Spanish Sauce.=--Fry one ounce of ham or bacon, cut in half-inch +dice, with one ounce of fat; add to it, as soon as brown, two ounces of +carrot sliced, two ounces of onion sliced; stir in two ounces of dry +flour, and brown well; then add one quart of stock; or if none is on +hand, one quart of water, and half a pound of lean meat chopped fine; +season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, +and a bouquet of sweet herbs, made as directed in the first chapter; +simmer gently for an hour, skimming as often as any scum rises; then +strain the sauce, add one gill of wine to it, and use it to dress any +dark meat, game, or baked fish. This sauce will keep a week or longer, +in a cool place. + +45. =Kromeskys, with Spanish Sauce.=--Cut one pound of cold roast lamb, or +mutton, in half inch dice; chop one ounce of onion, and fry it pale +yellow in one ounce of butter; add one ounce of flour, and stir until +smooth; add half a pint of Spanish sauce, or water, if no sauce is at +hand, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, one level teaspoonful of +salt, one level saltspoonful of white pepper, half a saltspoonful of +powdered herbs, as much cayenne as can be taken up on the point of a +very small pen-knife blade, and the chopped meat; two ounces of +mushrooms, slightly warmed with quarter of an ounce of butter, and a +teaspoonful of lemon juice, improve the flavor of the _kromeskys_ +exceedingly; stir until scalding hot, add the yolk of one raw egg, cook +for two minutes, stirring frequently; and turn out to cool on a flat +dish, slightly oiled, or buttered, to prevent sticking, spreading the +minced meat about an inch thick; set away to cool while the batter is +being made. + +46. =Plain Frying Batter.=--Mix quarter of a pound of flour with the yolks +of two raw eggs, a level saltspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of +pepper, quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, one tablespoonful of +salad oil, (which is used to make the batter crisp,) and one cup of +water, more or less, as the flour will take it up; the batter should be +stiff enough to hold the drops from the spoon in shape when they are +let fall upon it; now beat the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth, +beginning slowly, and increasing the speed until you are beating as fast +as you can; the froth will surely come; then stir it lightly into the +batter; heat the dish containing the meat a moment, to loosen it, and +turn it out on the table, just dusted with powdered crackers; cut it in +strips an inch wide and two inches long, roll them lightly under the +palm of the hand, in the shape of corks, dip them in the batter, and fry +them golden brown in smoking hot fat. Serve them on a neatly folded +napkin. They make a delicious dish, really worth all the care taken in +preparing them. + +47. =Sheep's Tongues with Spinach.=--Boil eight sheep's tongues in the +stock pot, or in hot water with a bouquet of sweet herbs, and a gill of +vinegar, for about an hour, or until they are quite tender; then remove +them from the stock, lay them on their sides on a flat dish, place over +them another dish with weights on it, and allow them to cool: trim them +neatly, put them into a sauce-pan with enough Spanish sauce, or brown +gravy to cover them, and heat them gradually. + +48. =To boil Spinach.=--Wash and trim one quart of green spinach, put it +into a sauce-pan holding at least three quarts of boiling water, and +three tablespoonfuls of salt, and boil it rapidly, with the cover off, +until it is tender enough to pierce easily with the finger nail, which +will be in from three to seven minutes, according to the age of the +spinach; then drain it in a colander, wash it in cold water, thoroughly +drain it again, and chop it very fine, or pass it through a sieve with a +wooden spoon; put it into a sauce-pan with enough Spanish sauce or brown +gravy to moisten it, season it with a saltspoonful of salt, and half +that quantity of white pepper, and heat it until it steams; arrange the +tongues in a wreath on a hot platter, put the spinach in the centre, and +pour the gravy in which the tongues were heated, over them. Serve hot at +once. + +49. =Broiled Sheep's Kidneys.=--Split eight kidneys lengthwise, skin them, +lay them for half an hour in a dish containing a tablespoonful of salad +oil, the same of some spiced vinegar, or table sauce, and a saltspoonful +of salt and pepper mixed equally; turn them frequently; then roll them +in cracker dust, lay them on a greased gridiron, and broil them, the +inside first; when done brown, place them on a hot dish, with a small +piece of _maitre d'hotel_ butter in each, made according to receipt No. +16, and send them hot to the table. + +50. =Liver Rolls.=--Cut two sheep's livers in slices half an inch thick; +season them with salt and pepper; spread over each a layer of sausage +meat as thick as the liver, season that, roll each slice up, and tie it +in place with a string; on the bottom of a baking pan put one ounce of +carrot, and one ounce of onion sliced, two bay leaves, one sprig of +thyme, three of parsley, and an ounce of salt pork sliced; lay the liver +on these, put over each roll a tablespoonful of brown gravy, or Spanish +sauce, and bake them in a moderate oven about forty minutes, or until +they are thoroughly cooked; lay them on a hot platter, add a gill of +stock or water to the pan they were baked in, stir the vegetables about +in it, and strain it over the liver. Serve at once. + +51. =Fried Brains with Tomato Sauce.=--Lay four pieces of calf's brains in +cold water and salt for one hour, to draw out the blood; meantime begin +a tomato sauce as directed below; carefully remove the outer skin +without breaking the brains; put them over the fire in enough cold water +to cover them, with half a gill of vinegar, two bay leaves, a sprig of +parsley, and an onion stuck with three cloves; bring them to a boil, and +simmer slowly for ten minutes; take them up carefully, and lay them in +cold water and salt to cool. When cool, cut each one in two pieces, roll +them first in cracker dust, then in one raw egg beaten with a +tablespoonful of cold water, then again in cracker dust, and fry them in +plenty of smoking hot fat; as soon as they are golden brown take them up +on a skimmer, and lay them on a soft paper or napkin to absorb all fat, +and then arrange on a platter containing half a pint of tomato sauce. + +52. =Tomato Sauce.=--Put into a thick sauce-pan half a can, or one pint of +tomatoes, one ounce of carrot, and the same quantity of onion sliced, +one ounce of salt pork cut in small bits, a bouquet of sweet herbs, made +as directed in Chapter first, four cloves, one clove of garlic, if it is +liked, one teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and +a gill of stock, gravy, or water; simmer slowly one hour, and pass +through a sieve with a wooden spoon. This is an excellent sauce for any +breaded side dish. + +53. =Calf's Liver larded.=--The operation of larding is done by passing +strips of larding pork, which is firm, white, fat pork, cut two inches +long, and quarter of an inch square, in rows along the surface of a +liver, placing the strips of pork in the split end of a larding needle, +and with it taking a stitch about a quarter of an inch deep and one inch +long in the surface of the liver, and leaving the ends of the pork +projecting equally; the rows must be inserted regularly, the ends of the +second coming between the ends of the first, and so on, until the +surface is covered; the liver is then laid in a dripping pan on one +ounce of carrot, one ounce of onions, and one ounce of salt pork sliced, +half a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, three +sprigs of parsley, one of thyme, three bay leaves, and six cloves; a +gill of Spanish sauce or brown gravy is poured over it, and it is cooked +in a moderate oven about an hour, until it is thoroughly done. The liver +should be laid on a hot platter, while half a pint of Spanish sauce or +gravy is stirred among the vegetables it was cooked with, and then +strained over it. If served hot it is a most delicious and economical +dish, being nearly as satisfactory to appetite as a heavy joint of roast +meat. + +54. =Blanquette of Veal.=--Cut three pounds of the breast of veal in +pieces two inches square, put them in enough cold water to cover them, +with one saltspoonful of white pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, a +bouquet of sweet herbs, made as directed in Chapter first, and an onion +stuck with three cloves; bring slowly to a boil, skim carefully until no +more scum rises, and cook gently for thirty or forty minutes until the +veal is tender; then drain it, returning the broth to the fire, and +washing the meat in cold water; meantime make a white sauce by stirring +together over the fire one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour, until +they are smooth, then adding a pint and a half of the broth gradually, +season with a little more salt and pepper if they are required, and with +quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg; when the sauce has boiled up +well, stir into it with an egg-whip the yolks of two raw eggs, put in +the meat, and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally; a few +mushrooms are a great improvement to the blanquette; or it may be served +with two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley sprinkled over it after it is +put on a hot platter. + +55. =Stuffed breast of Veal.=--Have the butcher make what is called a +pocket in a three pound breast of veal, by cutting the flesh of the +upper side free from the breast bones, taking care to leave three outer +sides of the meat whole, so as to hold the stuffing; prepare a bed of +vegetables, herbs, and pork, as directed for liver, in receipt No. 53; +stuff the breast, sew it up, lay it on the vegetables, put four ounces +of salt pork cut in thin slices on the top, season it with a teaspoonful +of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and bake it in a +moderate oven about one hour, till thoroughly done; serve it with a +brown gravy made the same as the liver gravy in receipt No. 53. + +56. =Stuffing for Veal.=--Steep four ounces of bread in tepid water; chop +one ounce of onion, and fry it yellow in one ounce of butter; wring the +bread dry in a towel and add it to the butter and onion; season with one +saltspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful each of pepper and +powdered thyme, or mixed spices, and stir till scalding hot, then remove +from the fire, stir in the yolk of one raw egg, and stuff the breast of +veal with it. This is a very good stuffing for poultry, or lamb. + +57. =Broiled Pork Cutlets.=--Make a Robert sauce, according to directions +given below. Broil two pounds of cutlets from the neck of pork, being +careful not to burn them, and dish them in a wreath on a hot platter +with Robert sauce poured on the dish. + +58. =Robert Sauce.=--Chop two ounces of onion, fry pale yellow with one +ounce of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of spiced vinegar, and reduce +one half by quick boiling; add half a pint of Spanish sauce, or brown +gravy, and boil slowly for fifteen minutes; then season with a +saltspoonful of salt, quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and two +teaspoonfuls of French mustard, and serve. + +59. =Pork Chops with Curry.=--First boil a quarter of a pound of rice +according to receipt No. 60. Fry two pounds of pork chops cut from the +loin, brown in a very little butter, pour off all the grease, add to +them half a pint of Spanish sauce, and a tablespoonful of curry powder +mixed smooth with two tablespoonfuls of cold water; cover the sauce-pan, +and simmer the chops for fifteen minutes; then dish them in a wreath on +a hot platter, pour the sauce on the bottom of the dish, and fill the +centre with rice. + +60. =Boiled Rice.=--Wash a quarter of a pound of rice in plenty of cold +water, put it into a quart of boiling water with a tablespoonful of +salt, and boil it fast for twenty minutes; shake it out into a colander, +drain it, and shake it from the colander into the centre of the dish of +chops; do not stir it with a spoon. + +61. =Broiled Pigs' Feet.=--Boil four well cleaned pickled pigs' feet in +stock or boiling water with sweet herbs, until they are tender enough to +permit the bones to come out readily; split them in halves, take out all +the large bones; trim and shape them neatly, and cool them; when cold +season them with pepper and salt, dip them first in melted butter and +then in cracker dust, and broil them over a clear, moderate fire, +turning them frequently; serve with a little melted butter, lemon juice, +and chopped parsley over them. + +62. =English Pork Pie.=--Make a plain pie crust by mixing together with +the hand, half a pound of flour and quarter of a pound of butter, with +enough cold water to make a stiff paste; roll out about six times on a +well floured pastry board, folding the paste evenly each time; line the +side of an earthen pie dish nearly to the bottom; in the bottom put a +thin layer of bacon, about four ounces sliced; pare and slice half a +quart of potatoes; chop two ounces of onion; cut two pounds of fresh +lean pork in two-inch pieces; lay all these in the dish in layers, +season with half a saltspoonful of pepper and the same quantity of +powdered sage; fill the dish with any good cold gravy, cover with crust, +wetting the edges to make them fit tight; ornament the surface according +to your fancy, with leaves and fancy shapes cut out of the pastry; brush +over with a raw egg beaten with a tablespoonful of water; bake in a +moderate oven fifteen minutes; cover the top with paper, and bake one +hour longer; serve hot, or cold, as desired. + +63. =Fried Chicken, Spanish Style.=--Cut up a four pound chicken as for a +_fricassee_, sprinkle the pieces with salt, and Spanish red pepper; put +four ounces of lard in a frying pan on the fire, and when smoking hot, +put in the legs, back, thighs, and wings; when they are half done, add +the pieces of breast, two ounces of chopped onion, one clove of garlic +chopped, a bouquet of sweet herbs, made as directed in Chapter first, +and fry seven minutes; add half a pound of raw ham cut in half inch +dice, and fry till the chicken is tender; take it out and keep it hot, +while you fry four large tomatoes cut in dice, and seasoned with salt +and pepper to taste; then add the chicken, make it quite hot, and serve +all together on a platter, like a _fricassee_. + +64. =Chicken Fricassee.=--Cut a four pound tender chicken in joints, put +it over the fire in enough cold water to cover it, with one +dessertspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, a bouquet of +sweet herbs, made as directed in Chapter first, two ounces of carrot, +pared and left whole, and one dozen button onions peeled; skim +frequently as often as any scum rises, simmer slowly until the chicken +is tender, about an hour, and then take it up to keep hot while the +sauce is made; strain out the vegetables, and set the broth to boil; mix +one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour together over the fire until +they become a smooth paste; then gradually add a pint and a half of the +broth, stirring the sauce with an egg-whip until it is quite smooth, +season it to taste with salt and pepper, and dish it on a hot platter; +half a can of mushrooms greatly improve the flavor of the _fricassee_. + +65. =Grilled Fowl.=--Cut the legs and second joints from two cold roast +fowls; score them closely, season them with pepper and salt, and lay +them by, ready to broil. Mince the rest of the meat fine. Make a white +sauce by mixing together over the fire two ounces of butter and two of +flour until they form a smooth paste; gradually add enough boiling milk +to make a good thick sauce, season with half a teaspoonful of salt, +quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and the same quantity of +grated nutmeg; add the minced fowl, and heat; now broil the legs and +thighs, and after dishing the mince on a hot platter, lay them on it, +and serve hot. + +66. =Minced Chicken with Macaroni.=--Put four ounces of macaroni to blanch +as directed in receipt No. 67. Cut two pounds of cold roast fowl in +small slices, or scallops; and heat them in a white sauce, as directed +in receipt No. 65: dish them in a border of macaroni, and serve hot. + +67. =Macaroni with Cheese.=--Blanch four ounces of macaroni by putting it +to boil in two quarts of boiling water and a tablespoonful of salt; boil +it until it is tender enough to pierce with the finger nail, drain it in +a colander, wash it well in cold water, and let it remain in water while +you prepare a white sauce of one ounce of butter, one of flour, and +boiling milk, as directed in receipt No. 65:--put the macaroni into it +with two ounces of grated cheese, Parmesan is the best; heat it +thoroughly; dish it in a border around the minced fowl, which should be +piled in the middle of the dish. + +68. =Broiled Pigeons.=--Carefully pluck and draw eight pigeons, split them +down the middle of the back, flatten them by pounding them with the +blade of a heavy knife, broil them on a greased gridiron, the inside +first; lay each one on a slice of buttered toast, and dress them with a +little _maitre d'hotel_ butter, made according to receipt No. 16. + +69. =Salmi of Duck.=--Cut two cold roast wild ducks in joints; put them +into a sauce-pan with enough Spanish sauce to cover them, and add two +dozen olives with the stones removed; season to taste with salt and +pepper, being guided in this by the seasoning of the Spanish sauce; heat +thoroughly; meantime cut a dozen heart shaped _croutons_, or slices of +bread about two inches long and one wide, and fry them brown in plenty +of hot fat; when the _salmi_ is hot, pour it on a hot dish, and arrange +the _croutons_ around the border; serve hot. + +70. =Civet of Hare.=--Skin a pair of leverets, or young hares, carefully +wipe them outside with a damp cloth; remove the entrails, and wash the +interior with a cup of vinegar, which must be saved; cut them into +joints as you would divide a chicken for _fricassee_; cut the back and +loins in pieces about two inches square; peel two dozen button onions, +and fry them light brown in two ounces of butter, with half a pound of +lean ham cut in half inch dice; add the hare, and brown well; stir in +two ounces of dry flour, add three gills of broth, and one gill of the +vinegar used to wash the hare, or two gills of claret, season with one +teaspoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of ground cloves, and half a +saltspoonful of pepper; simmer gently about one hour, until the hare is +tender, and serve on a hot platter like chicken _fricassee_. + +71. =Jugged Hare.=--Prepare two hares as for a _civet_, in receipt No. 70; +in the cup of vinegar and half a pint of Spanish sauce, (or in their +place one pint of claret,) put the yellow rind of one lemon, a bouquet +of sweet herbs, prepared as in Chapter first, eight cloves, two blades +of mace, two inches of stick cinnamon, eight allspice, one ounce of +onion whole, one ounce of carrot whole; boil all these together half an +hour when you are preparing the hare, as in receipt No. 70; lay the +browned pieces of hare in an earthen jar; season them a little with a +teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; strain the +gravy made as above into the jar; put on the cover; fasten it in place +with a paste made of flour and water, and oiled on the top to prevent +cracking. Bake the hare in a moderate oven three hours. When you are +nearly ready to dish it, cut a slice of bread two inches thick, the +entire side of a large loaf, trim it to a perfect oval, fry it light +brown in hot fat, put it on a platter, arrange the hare on it, and pour +the gravy over; serve hot. + +72. =Stuffed Eggs.=--Boil eight eggs for ten minutes, until quite hard, +lay them in cold water until they are quite cold; make a white sauce, as +directed in receipt No. 65; soak two ounces of stale bread in tepid +water for five minutes, and wring it dry in a towel; put one ounce of +grated cheese, Parmesan is the best, in a sauce-pan with one +saltspoonful of salt, half that quantity of white pepper, as much +cayenne as can be taken up on the point of a very small pen-knife blade, +a teaspoonful of lemon juice, two ounces of butter, and a gill of the +white sauce; cut the eggs carefully in halves lengthwise after removing +the shells, rub the yolks through a sieve with a silver spoon, and add +them with the bread to the sauce, as prepared above; stir these +ingredients over the fire until they cleave from the sides of the +sauce-pan, when they will be scalding hot; on a hot platter put a layer +of the white sauce as a foundation for the eggs; fill the whites with +the forcemeat, rounding it up to look like the entire yolk of an egg, +set them on a dish in a pyramid, and heat them in a moderate oven; send +whatever white sauce you have left to the table in a boat, with the dish +of eggs. + +When, after preparing the eggs for the oven, they are sprinkled with +grated cheese, and cracker dust, and then browned, they are called +gratinated eggs, or stuffed eggs, _au gratin_, and are served without +any sauce. + +73. =How to make Omelettes.=--There is no great difficulty in making +omelettes, and as they may be expeditiously prepared and served they are +a convenient resource when an extra dish is required at short notice; +care should be taken to beat the eggs only until they are light, to put +the omelette into a well heated and buttered pan, and _never to turn it +in the pan_, as this flattens and toughens it; if the pan be large, and +only three or four eggs be used in making the omelette, the pan should +be tipped and held by the handle so that the eggs will cook in a small +space upon one side of it; instead of spreading all over it, and +becoming too dry in the process of cooking. + +There are three secrets in the making of a good omelette, namely, the +separate beating of the eggs, the knack of stirring it upon the fire, +and the method of transferring it from the fire to the table. If you +will carefully follow the directions here given, you can produce a dish +dainty enough to satisfy the most fastidious eater. + +74. =Plain Omelette.=--If you have to serve eight persons, make three +omelettes as follows: + +Put one half an ounce (about a tablespoonful) of butter into a clean, +smooth frying-pan, and set it upon the back of the stove to melt; stir +the yolks of three eggs with a saltspoonful of salt for one minute; beat +the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth with an egg-whip, beginning +slowly, and gradually increasing the speed until the froth will not +leave the dish if it be turned bottom up; this will take from three to +five minutes, according to the freshness of the eggs; now pour the +yolks into the froth, and mix them gently with a silver spoon, turning +the bowl of the spoon over and over, but do not stir in a circle, or +rapidly; put the frying-pan containing the melted butter over the fire, +pour in the omelette, and stir it with a large two-pronged fork (a +carving fork will do), carefully raising the edges with the fork as fast +as they cook, and turning them toward the centre, until the omelette +lies in the middle of the pan in a light mass, cooked soft or hard to +suit the taste; when done to the desired degree, turn it out upon a hot +dish _without touching it with either fork or spoon_, and send it to the +table immediately. Another excellent method is to beat three eggs, +without separating the whites and yolks, with one tablespoonful of milk, +and a little salt and pepper, and put them into a frying-pan containing +two ounces of butter browned; let the omelette stand for a moment, and +then turn the edges up gently with a fork, and shake the pan to prevent +it burning or sticking at the bottom; five minutes will fry it a +delicate brown, and it should then be doubled and sent to the table at +once on a hot dish. Three eggs will make an omelette large enough for +two persons, if any other dish is to be served with it. There are +several varieties of omelettes, each named after the ingredient +prominent in the composition. We subjoin some excellent receipts, which +may be based upon the first-mentioned method of preparation and cooking. + +75. =Omelette with Herbs.=--Stir into the yolks of three eggs a +saltspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one +tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms, and one tablespoonful of shallot or +white onion; beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, add them to +the yolks, and cook as in the first receipt. + +76. =Omelette with Ham, Tongue, or Cheese.=--Use chopped or grated ham, or +tongue, or cheese, in the proportion of one tablespoonful to one egg; +proceed to mix and cook in the same way as for omelette with herbs. + +77. =Omelette with Oysters.=--Blanch one dozen small Blue Point oysters, +by bringing them just to a boil in their own liquor, seasoned with a +dust of cayenne, a saltspoonful of salt, and a grate of nutmeg; mix an +omelette as above, omitting the herbs, place it over the fire, and when +it begins to cook at the edges, place the oysters, without any liquor, +in its centre, and fold and serve it in the same manner as the omelette +with herbs. + +78. =Omelette with Mushrooms.=--Choose a dozen small, even sized +mushrooms; if they are canned, simply warm them in the essence in which +they are preserved, and if they are fresh, peel them by dipping them, +held by the stem, into boiling water for one moment, and heat them over +the fire with half an ounce of butter and half a saltspoonful of salt +put over them; prepare the omelette as above, and as soon as the edges +begin to cook, place the mushrooms in the centre, and fold and serve +like the omelette with herbs. + +79. =Spanish Omelette.=--Peel two large ripe tomatoes, cut them in thin +slices, put them into a frying pan with an ounce of butter, a +saltspoonful of salt, and a dust of pepper, and toss them to prevent +burning, until they are just cooked through; make an omelette as above, +and as soon as its edges are cooked put in the tomatoes, and fold and +serve the same as the omelette with herbs. + +80. =Oriental Omelette.=--Heat a thick earthen plate over a charcoal or +wood fire, until it will melt butter enough to cover the bottom of it, +dust on the butter a little pepper, and sprinkle on a little salt; break +into it as many eggs as will lay upon it without crowding, and brown +them underneath; then set them where the heat of the fire will strike +their tops, and let them color a pale yellow; salt them a little, and +serve them very hot upon the same dish upon which they were cooked. + +81. =Omelette with Preserves.=--Prepare an omelette as directed in receipt +No. 77, substituting any kind of jelly or preserves for the oysters. + +82. =How to Cook Macaroni.=--This is one of the most wholesome and +economical of foods, and can be varied so as to give a succession of +palatable dishes at a very small cost. The imported macaroni can be +bought at Italian stores for about fifteen cents a pound; and that +quantity when boiled yields nearly three times its bulk, if it has been +manufactured for any length of time. In cooking it is generally combined +with meat gravy, tomato sauce, and cheese; Gruyere and Parmesan cheese, +which are the kinds most used by foreign cooks, can be readily obtained +at any large grocery, the price of the former being about thirty-five +cents per pound, and the latter varying from forty to eighty cents, +according to the commercial spirit of the vendor; the trade price quoted +on grocers' trade lists being thirty-eight cents per pound, for prime +quality. This cheese is of a greenish color, a little salt in taste and +flavored with delicate herbs; the nearest domestic variety is +sage-cheese, which may be used when Parmesan can not be obtained. If in +heating Parmesan cheese it appears oily, it is from the lack of +moisture, and this can be supplied by adding a few tablespoonfuls of +broth, and stirring it over the fire for a minute. When more macaroni +has been boiled than is used, it can be kept perfectly good by laying it +in fresh water, which must be changed every day. There are several forms +of Italian paste, but the composition is almost identical, all being +made from the interior part of the finest wheat grown on the +Mediterranean shores: the largest tubes, about the size of a lead +pencil, are called _macaroni_; the second variety, as large as a common +pipe-stem, is termed _mazzini_; and the smallest is _spaghetti_, or +threads; _vermicelli_ comes to market in the form of small coils or +hanks of fine yellowish threads; and _Italian paste_ appears in small +letters, and various fanciful shapes. Macaroni is generally known as a +rather luxurious dish among the wealthy; but it should become one of the +chief foods of the people, for it contains more gluten, or the +nutritious portion of wheat, than bread. + +83. =Macaroni with Bechamel Sauce.=--Heat three quarts of water, +containing three tablespoonfuls of salt, to the boiling point; boil half +a pound of _macaroni_ in it until it is tender enough to pierce easily +with the finger nail; then drain it in a colander, and wash it well in +cold water; while it is boiling make a _Bechamel_, or white sauce, as in +receipt No. 84: put just enough of it with the _macaroni_ to moisten it, +heat it thoroughly; shake it up well with two forks to make the cheese +fibrous, put it on a hot dish, sprinkle with half an ounce of grated +Parmesan cheese, and serve it hot. + +84. =Bechamel Sauce, with Parmesan Cheese.=--Stir together over the fire +two ounces of butter, and two ounces of flour, until they are perfectly +blended, boiling one pint of milk meantime; when the butter and flour +are smooth, pour the boiling milk into them, stir in two ounces of +grated Parmesan gradually and melt it thoroughly, stirring constantly +until the sauce is smooth; if cream is used instead of milk, and the +Parmesan cheese omitted, the same is called _Cream Bechamel_. + +85. =Macaroni Milanaise style.=--Have ready some tomato sauce, made +according to receipt No. 52, or use some fresh tomatoes passed through a +sieve with a wooden spoon, and highly seasoned; and two ounces of grated +Parmesan cheese; put half a pound of imported Italian _macaroni_ in +three quarts of boiling water, with two tablespoonfuls of salt, one +saltspoonful of pepper in coarse pieces, called _mignonette_ pepper, and +a teaspoonful of butter; boil rapidly for about twenty minutes, or until +you can easily pierce it with the finger nail, then drain it in a +colander, run plenty of cold water from the faucet through it, and lay +it in a pan of cold water until you are ready to use it. Put into a +sauce-pan one gill of tomato sauce, one ounce of butter, and one gill of +Spanish sauce, or any rich meat gravy free from fat, and stir until they +are smoothly blended: put a half inch layer of _macaroni_ on the bottom +of a dish, moisten it with four tablespoonfuls of the sauce, sprinkle +over it half an ounce of the grated cheese; make three other layers like +this, using all the _macaroni_, cheese, and sauce, and brown the +_macaroni_ in a hot oven for about five minutes; serve it hot. + +86. =Macaroni with Tomato Sauce.=--Boil half a pound of _spaghetti_ or +_macaroni_ as directed in receipt No. 83, and lay it in cold water. Make +a tomato sauce as follows, and dress the _macaroni_ with it, using only +enough to moisten it, and sprinkling the top with half an ounce of +grated cheese; serve it hot. + +87. =Tomato Sauce.=--Boil together, for one hour, half a can of tomatoes, +or six large, fresh ones, one gill of broth of any kind, one sprig of +thyme, one sprig of parsley, three whole cloves, three peppercorns, and +half an ounce of onion sliced; rub them through a sieve with a wooden +spoon, and set the sauce to keep hot; mix together over the fire one +ounce of butter, and half an ounce of flour, and when smooth, +incorporate with the tomato sauce. + +88. =Timbale of Macaroni.= (_A sweet dish._)--Boil half a pound of +_macaroni_ of the largest size, in boiling water and salt for fifteen +minutes; drain it in a colander, wash it well, lay by one quarter of it, +and put the rest into a sauce-pan with one ounce of butter, one pint of +milk or cream, four ounces of sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla +flavoring, and a saltspoonful of salt; simmer it gently while you line a +well buttered three pint plain mould with the best pieces you have +reserved, coiling them regularly in the bottom and up the sides of the +mould; put what you do not use among that in the sauce-pan, and as soon +as it is tender fill the mould with it, and set it in a hot oven for +fifteen minutes; then turn it out on a dish, dust it with powdered +sugar, and serve it hot, with a pudding sauce. + +89. =Vanilla Cream Sauce.=--Put three ounces of powdered sugar into a +sauce-pan with one ounce of corn starch, and one gill of cold water; mix +them smooth off the fire; then put the sauce-pan on the fire and pour in +half a pint of boiling milk, stirring smooth with an egg-whip for about +ten minutes, when the sauce will be thoroughly cooked; flavor it with +one teaspoonful of vanilla, and serve with pudding at once. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +LARGE ROASTS. + + +Since roast or rather baked meats so often play the chief part in +American dinners, a few directions will be useful in connection with +their cooking. The object in cooking meat is to prepare it for easy +mastication and complete digestion; and it should be accomplished with +the least possible waste of the valuable juices of the meat. The +roasting of meat before the fire is not often possible in ordinary +kitchens, but with a well managed oven the same result can be attained. +If meat is placed before a slow fire, or in a cool oven, the little heat +that reaches it serves only to draw out its juices, and with them its +nutritious elements. The albumen of its cut surfaces coagulates at the +temperature of a bright, clear fire, or a hot oven, and thus seals up +the juices so that only a part of them escape, and those are collected +in the form of a rich brown, highly flavored crust, upon the surface of +well roasted meat. A good temperature for baking meat is from 320 deg. to +400 deg. Fahr. If the meat is put into a very hot oven for a few moments +to harden the outside, the heat can subsequently be moderated, and the +cooking finished more slowly, so that the meat will be sufficiently well +done, but not burned. Meats should be roasted about twenty minutes to a +pound, to be moderately well done; the fire should be clear, and steady, +in order that an equal heat may reach the joint and keep its interior +steam at the proper degree of heat; after the right length of time has +elapsed, care being taken meantime that the meat does not burn, it may +be tested by pressing it with the fingers; if it is rare it will spring +back when the pressure is removed; if it is moderately well done the +resistance to pressure will be very slight; and if it is thoroughly +cooked it will remain heavy under the fingers; never test it by cutting +into it with a knife, or puncturing it with a fork, for in this way you +waste the rich juices. If you wish to froth roast meat, dredge a little +flour over its surface, and brown it a few moments before serving it. If +it is to be glazed, brush it with clear stock concentrated to a paste by +rapid boiling, or dust a little powdered sugar over it, and in both +cases return it to the oven to set the glaze. + +90. =Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding.=--Have three ribs of prime beef +prepared by the butcher for roasting, all the bones being taken out if +it is desirable to carve a clean slice off the top; secure it in place +with stout twine; do not use skewers, as the unnecessary holes they make +permit the meat-juices to escape; lay it in the dripping pan on a bed of +the following vegetables, cut in small pieces; one small onion, half a +carrot, half a turnip, three sprigs of parsley, one sprig of thyme, and +three bay leaves; _do not put any water in the dripping pan_; its +temperature can not rise to a degree equal in heat to that of the fat +outside of the beef, and can not assist in its cooking, but serves only +to lower the temperature of the meat, where it touches it, and +consequently to soften the surface and extract the juices; _do not +season it until the surface is partly carbonized by the heat_, as salt +applied to the cut fibre draws out their juices. If you use a roasting +oven before the fire, the meat should be similarly prepared by tying in +place, and it should be put on the spit carefully; sufficient drippings +for basting will flow from it, and it should be seasoned when half done; +when entirely done, which will be in fifteen minutes to each pound of +meat, the joint should be kept hot until served, but should be served as +soon as possible to be good. When gravy is made, half a pint of hot +water should be added to the dripping pan, after the vegetables have +been removed, and the gravy should be boiled briskly for a few minutes, +until it is thick enough, and seasoned to suit the palate of the family; +some persons thicken it with a teaspoonful of flour, which should be +mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cold water before it is stirred into +the gravy. + +91. =Yorkshire Pudding.=--Put seven ounces of flour into a bowl with one +teaspoonful of salt; mix it smoothly with enough milk, say half a pint, +to make a smooth, stiff batter; then gradually add enough more milk to +amount in all to one pint and a half, and three eggs well beaten; mix it +thoroughly with an egg-whip, pour it into a well buttered baking pan, +bake it in the oven one hour and a half, if it is to be served with +baked beef; or if it is to accompany beef roasted before the fire, one +hour in the oven, and then half an hour under the meat on the spit, to +catch the gravy which flows from the joint. To serve it cut it into +pieces two or three inches square before taking it from the pan, and +send it to the table on a hot dish covered with a napkin, with the roast +beef. + +92. =Roast Loin of Veal.=--Take out the chine, or back-bone, from a loin +of veal weighing about six pounds, being careful to leave the piece of +meat as whole as possible; chop up the bones and put them in a dripping +pan with two ounces of carrot, one ounce of turnip, and quarter of an +ounce of parsley; stuff the veal with a forcemeat made as in receipt +No. 93, roll it up neatly, tie it firmly with stout cord, lay it on the +vegetables in the pan, and roast it one hour and a half. When done take +it from the pan, and keep it hot while you prepare the gravy by putting +half a pint of hot water in the pan, boiling it up once, and straining +it; or if desirable thicken it with a teaspoonful of flour smoothly +dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of cold water and stirred with the +gravy. + +93. =Stuffing for Veal.=--Cut two ounces of salt pork in quarter inch +dice, and fry it brown in half an ounce of butter, with one ounce of +chopped onion; while these ingredients are frying, soak eight ounces of +stale bread in tepid water, and then wring it dry in a napkin; add it to +the onion when it is brown, with one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, +half a saltspoonful of powdered thyme, and the same quantity of dried +and powdered celery, and white pepper, and one teaspoonful of salt; mix +all these over the fire until they are scalding hot, and cleave from +the pan; then stir in one raw egg, and use it with the veal. + +94. =Roast Lamb with Mint Sauce.=--Choose a plump, fat fore-quarter of +lamb, which is quite as finely flavored and less expensive than the +hind-quarter; secure it in shape with stout cord, lay it in a dripping +pan with one sprig of parsley, three sprigs of mint, and one ounce of +carrot sliced; put it into a quick oven, and roast it fifteen minutes to +each pound; when half done season it with salt and pepper, and baste it +occasionally with the drippings flowing from it. When done serve it with +a gravy-boat full of mint sauce. + +95. =Mint Sauce cold.=--Melt four ounces of brown sugar in a sauce boat +with half a pint of vinegar, add three tablespoonfuls of chopped mint, +and serve cold with roast lamb. + +96. =Hot Mint Sauce.=--Put one pint of vinegar into a sauce-pan with four +ounces of white sugar, and reduce by rapid boiling to half a pint, +stirring to prevent burning; add a gill of cold water, and boil for five +minutes; then add three tablespoonfuls of chopped mint, and serve with +lamb. + +97. =Roast Pork with Apple Sauce.=--Neatly trim a loin of fresh pork +weighing about six pounds; put it into a dripping pan on three bay +leaves, quarter of an ounce of parsley, one ounce of onion, and the same +quantity of carrot sliced, and roast it about twenty minutes to each +pound; when half done, season it with salt and pepper; when brown, serve +it with a border of Parisian potatoes, prepared according to receipt +No. 2, and send it to the table with a bowl of apple sauce. + +98. =Apple Sauce.=--Pare and slice one quart of good tart apples; put them +into a sauce-pan with half a pint of cold water; stir them often enough +to prevent burning, and simmer them until tender, about twenty minutes +will be long enough; then rub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, +add a saltspoonful of powdered cloves, and four ounces of sugar, or less +according to the taste; serve in a bowl, with the roast pork. + +99. =Roast Turkey with Cranberry Sauce.=--Choose a fat tender turkey +weighing about six or seven pounds; pluck it, carefully remove the +pin-feathers, singe the bird over the flame of an alcohol lamp, or a few +drops of alcohol poured on a plate and lighted; wipe it with a damp +towel and see that it is properly drawn by slitting the skin at the back +of the neck, and taking out the crop without tearing the skin of the +breast; loosen the heart, liver, and lungs, by introducing the +fore-finger at the neck, and then draw them, with the entrails, from the +vent. Unless you have broken the gall, or the entrails, in drawing the +bird _do not wash it_, for this greatly impairs the flavor, and partly +destroys the nourishing qualities of the flesh. Twist the tips of the +wings back under the shoulders, stuff the bird with forcemeat made +according to receipt No. 100; bend the legs as far up toward the breast +as possible, secure the thigh bones in that position by a trussing cord +or skewer; then bring the legs down, and fasten them close to the vent. +Pound the breast bone down, first laying a towel over it. Lay a thin +slice of salt pork over the breast to baste it until sufficient +drippings run from the bird; baste it frequently, browning it on all +sides by turning it about in the pan; use a clean towel to turn it with, +_but do not run a fork into it or you will waste its juices_: when it is +half done season it with two teaspoonfuls of salt and one saltspoonful +of powdered herbs, made according to directions in Chapter first; when +it has cooked about twenty minutes to each pound, dish it, and keep it +hot while you make a gravy by adding half a pint of water to the +drippings in the pan, first taking off a little of the superfluous fat, +and thickening it if desired with a teaspoonful of flour mixed with two +tablespoonfuls of cold water; serve the turkey hot with a gravy-boat +full of gravy and a dish of cranberry sauce made according to receipt +No. 101. The same directions for drawing, trussing, and roasting will +apply to other poultry and game. + +100. =Forcemeat for Roast Poultry.=--Steep eight ounces of stale bread in +tepid water for five minutes, and wring it dry in a clean towel; +meantime chop fine four ounces each of fresh veal and pork, or use +instead, eight ounces of good sausage meat; grate eight ounces of good +rather dry cheese; fry one ounce of onion in one ounce of butter to a +light yellow color; add the bread, meat, and cheese, season with a +saltspoonful of powdered herbs, made according to directions in Chapter +first, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and two whole +eggs; mix well and use. + +101. =Cranberry Sauce.=--Carefully pick and wash one quart of +cranberries; put them over the fire in a sauce-pan with half a pint of +cold water; bring them to a boil, and boil them gently for fifteen +minutes, stirring them occasionally to prevent burning; then add four +ounces of white sugar, and boil them slowly until they are soft enough +to pass through a sieve with a wooden spoon; the sauce is then ready to +serve. + +102. =Roast Chicken with Duchesse Potatoes.=--Prepare and roast a pair of +chickens as directed in receipt No. 99; or for the stuffing named in +that receipt substitute No. 93; meantime boil one quart of potatoes, for +mashing, and make twelve heart-shaped _croutons_ or pieces of bread +fried in hot fat: lay the Duchesse potatoes around the chickens when it +is dished, and the _croutons_ in an outer circle, with the points +outward. + +103. =Duchesse Potatoes.=--Mash one quart of hot boiled potatoes through a +fine colander with the potato masher; mix with them one ounce of butter, +one level teaspoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of white pepper, +quarter of a saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, and the yolks of two raw +eggs; pour the potato out on a plate, and then form it with a knife into +small cakes, two inches long and one inch wide; lay them on a buttered +tin, brush them over the top with an egg beaten up with a teaspoonful of +cold water, and color them golden brown in a moderate oven. + +104. =Roast Duck with Watercresses.=--Prepare and roast a pair of ducks as +directed in receipt No. 99, and serve them with a border of a few +watercresses, and a salad bowl containing the rest of a quart, prepared +as in receipt No. 105. + +105. =Romaine Sauce for Watercresses.=--Grate half an ounce of onion, and +use two tablespoonfuls of vinegar to wash it off the grater; to these +add a saltspoonful of sugar, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, three +tablespoonfuls of olive oil, six capers chopped fine, as much cayenne as +can be taken up on the point of a very small pen-knife blade, a level +saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; mix well, +and use for dressing watercresses, or any other green salad. A few cold +boiled potatoes sliced and mixed with this dressing, and a head of +lettuce, makes a very nice potato salad. + +106. =Roast Goose with Onion Sauce.=--Prepare a goose as directed in +receipt No. 99; stuff it with onion stuffing made according to receipt +No. 107; serve it with a gravy boat full of onion sauce made according +to receipt No. 108. + +107. =Sage and Onion Stuffing.=--Pare six ounces of onion, and bring them +to a boil in three different waters; soak eight ounces of stale bread in +tepid water, and wring it dry in a towel; scald ten sage leaves; when +the onions are tender, which will be in about half an hour, chop them +with the sage leaves, add them to the bread, with one ounce of butter, +the yolks of two raw eggs, one level teaspoonful of salt, and half a +saltspoonful of pepper; mix and use. + +108. =Onion Sauce.=--Prepare six ounces of onions as in receipt No. 107; +chop them fine, pass them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and put +them into half a pint of boiling milk, with one ounce of butter, one +saltspoonful of salt, and one quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper. + +109. =Roast Wild Duck.=--Prepare a pair of ducks as directed in receipt +No. 99; do not stuff them, but tie over the breasts slices of pork or +bacon; roast fifteen minutes to the pound; serve with gravy in a boat +and quarters of lemon on the same dish. + +110. =Roast Partridge.=--Prepare a pair of partridges as in receipt No. +99, but do not stuff them; tie over the breasts slices of pork or bacon, +and roast about twenty-five minutes; serve with bread sauce. + +111. =Bread Sauce.=--Peel and slice an onion weighing full an ounce, +simmer it half an hour in one pint of milk, strain it, and to the milk +add two ounces of stale bread, broken in small pieces, one ounce of +butter, one saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of +nutmeg and pepper mixed; strain, passing through a sieve with a spoon, +and serve hot. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +BOILED DISHES. + + +Boiling is the most economical way of cooking, if properly done; there +are several important points to be considered in this connection. We +have already said that the best method of cooking meat is that which +preserves all its nourishing juices; if in addition to this we can +prepare it in such a way as to present a large available surface to the +action of the digestive juices, we would seem to have reached culinary +perfection. Judicious boiling accomplishes this: and we cannot do better +than to follow Liebig's plan to first plunge the meat into boiling +water, and boil it five minutes to coagulate the albumen to a sufficient +depth to form a crust upon the surface, and thus confine the juices, and +then add enough cold water to reduce the temperature to 158 deg. Fahr., +if the meat is to be rare, or to 165 deg. Fahr., if it is to be well +done; and to maintain this gentle heat until the meat is tender. There is +comparatively little waste in boiling, from the fact that fat melts less +quickly than in broiling or roasting, and the covering of the pot +retards evaporation, while the water absorbed by the meat adds to its +bulk to a certain extent without detracting from its quality. A strainer +or plate should be placed in the bottom of the pot to prevent burning; +the pot should be skimmed clear as soon as it boils, and the subsequent +simmering should be gentle and steady; there should always be sufficient +water to cover the meat in order to keep it plump. Less body of heat is +required to boil in copper or iron pots, than in those made of tin, +especially if the latter have polished surfaces which throw off the +heat. The pot-liquor from boiled meat should always be strained into an +earthen jar and left to cool; the fat can then be taken off for kitchen +use, and the liquor utilized as the basis for some kind of soup. + +112. =Leg of Mutton with Caper Sauce.=--Put a leg of mutton, weighing +about six pounds, on the fire in enough boiling hot water to cover it; +boil it for five minutes, skimming it as often as any scum rises, then +pour in enough cold water to reduce the heat to about 160 deg. Fahr., +season with a tablespoonful of salt, and simmer the meat at that heat +until it is tender, allowing about twenty minutes cooking to each pound +of meat; if turnips are to be served with it as a garnish, choose them +of equal size, pare them smoothly, and boil them with the mutton; if the +vegetables are cooked first take them up without breaking, and set them +back off the fire, in a little of the mutton stock, to keep hot. Just +before dishing the meat, make a caper sauce, as directed in receipt No. +113; serve the mutton on a hot dish, with the turnips laid around it, +and send the sauce in a gravy-boat to the table with it. + +113. =Caper Sauce.=--Put one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour in a +sauce-pan over the fire, and stir until smoothly melted; gradually pour +in half a pint of boiling water, season with one teaspoonful of salt, +and quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper, and stir until the sauce +coats the spoon when you lift it out; take it from the fire, and stir in +two ounces of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of small capers, and serve +at once. _Do not permit the sauce to boil after you have added the +butter, as it may turn rancid._ + +114. =Boiled Ham with Madeira Sauce.=--Choose a ham by running a thin +bladed knife close to the bone, and if the odor which follows the cut is +sweet the ham is good; soak it in cold water for twenty-four hours, +changing the water once; scrape it well, and trim off any ragged parts; +put it in enough cold water to cover it, with an onion weighing about +one ounce, stuck with six cloves, and a bouquet made according to +directions in Chapter first, and boil it four hours. Take it from the +fire and let it cool in the pot-liquor. Then take it up carefully, +remove the skin, dust it with sifted bread or cracker crumbs, and brown +it in the oven. Serve it either hot or cold; if hot send it to the table +with a gravy boat full of Madeira sauce. + +115. =Madeira Sauce.=--Put over the fire in a thick sauce-pan one pint of +Spanish sauce made according to receipt No. 44, or the same quantity of +any rich brown gravy, season with salt and pepper to taste; the +seasoning must depend on the flavor of the gravy; when scalding hot add +half a pint of Madeira wine, and stir till the sauce is thick enough to +coat the spoon; then strain through a fine sieve, and serve hot. + +116. =Beef a la Mode Jardiniere.=--Daube a seven pound piece of round of +beef, by inserting, with the grain, pieces of larding pork, cut as long +as the meat is thick, and about half an inch square, setting the strips +of pork about two inches apart; this can be done either with a large +larding needle, called a _sonde_, or by first making a hole with the +carving-knife steel, and then thrusting the pork in with the fingers; +lay the beef in a deep bowl containing the _marinade_, or pickle, given +in receipt No. 117, and let it stand from two to ten days in a cool +place, turning it over every day. Then put it into a deep pot just large +enough to hold it, together with the _marinade_, and turn it +occasionally over the fire until it is nicely browned; cover it with hot +stock or water, and simmer it gently four hours. When it has been +cooking three hours cut about four ounces each of carrots and turnips in +the shape of olives; pare two dozen button onions; and cut one pint of +string beans in pieces one inch long; put all these vegetables on the +fire in cold water, in separate vessels, each containing a teaspoonful +of salt, and half a saltspoonful of sugar, and let them boil till +tender; then lay them in cold water to keep them white, until ready to +use them. When the meat is tender, take it up, and keep it warm; strain +the sauce in which it has cooked, and stir it over the fire until it is +thick enough to coat the spoon; drain the vegetables, and let them scald +up in the sauce, and pour all over the beef. + +117. =Marinade.=--Cut in slices, four ounces each of carrot and onion, two +ounces of turnip, and one ounce of leeks; chop a quarter of an ounce +each of parsley and celery, if in season; slice one lemon; add to these +one level tablespoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper, six cloves, +four allspice, one inch of stick cinnamon, two blades of mace, one gill +of oil and one of vinegar, half a pint of red wine, and one pint of +water. Mix all these ingredients thoroughly, and use the _marinade_ for +beef, game, or poultry, always keeping it in a cool place. + +118. =Boiled Fowl with Oyster Sauce.=--Prepare a pair of fowls in +accordance with receipt No. 99, but do not stuff them; put them into +boiling water enough to cover them, with a level tablespoonful of salt +to each quart of water; skim until clear, and boil slowly until tender, +about fifteen minutes to a pound; when nearly done, make an oyster +sauce, as directed in receipt No. 119, and serve it on the same dish +with the fowls, sprinkling them with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. + +119. =Oyster Sauce.=--Blanch one quart of oysters by bringing them to a +boil in their own liquor; drain them, saving the liquor; wash them in +cold water, and set them away from the fire until you are ready to use +them; stir one ounce of butter and one ounce of flour together over the +fire until they form a smooth paste, strain into them enough of the +oyster liquor and that the chicken was boiled in to make a sauce as +thick as melted butter; season with a teaspoonful of salt, quarter of a +saltspoonful of white pepper, and the same of grated nutmeg; put in the +oysters, and serve. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +SALADS AND SALAD SAUCES. + + +"The very herbs of the field yield nourishment, and bread and water make +a feast for a temperate man," says Plato; and indeed the healthfulness +of fresh vegetables is well enough known in our day; we include under +this term not only the edible roots, but the young shoots of succulent +plants, rich in nitrates and mineral salts, which play an important part +in the preparation of salads. Americans are beginning to realize the +wealth of green food abounding in their gardens and fields, which they +have too long abandoned to their beasts of burden. We are wise in +letting the ox eat grass for us, but with the grass he too often +consumes tender herbs which might find a place on our own tables, to the +advantage of appetite and digestion. Dandelion, corn-salad, chicory, +mint, sorrel, fennel, marshmallows, tarragon, chives, mustard, and +cresses, and their numerous kind, grow wild, or can be cultivated with +but little trouble; and should find their way to favor in every family, +for with the oil and vinegar employed in dressing them, they promote +digestion, and purify the system; while the condiments used with them +are of decided medicinal value. + +There is some degree of truth in the idea that a salad-maker is born, +not made, and yet with due care and delicate manipulation, almost any +deft-handed and neat-minded individual may become an expert salad +dresser. Most careful preparation of the green vegetables is +imperatively necessary to the production of a good salad; they must be +freshened in cool water, cleaned of all foreign matter, well drained +upon a clean napkin; and, above all, torn with the fingers, and not cut +with a knife. Then the various ingredients should be very delicately and +deliberately compounded, and withal by a quick and cunning hand, and the +result will be perfection. Below we give the receipts for a class of +salads best adapted for general use. + +In the preparation of all salads only good oil should be used, as none +other will produce invariably satisfactory results. The very best salads +are often the result of the inspiration of the moment, when the +necessity arises for substituting some ingredient near at hand for one +not to be obtained, as in the case of the shad-roe salad mentioned +below. The formula called for Russian caviare, but Russian caviare was +not to be had, and a cold shad-roe was; the consequence was its +substitution and the alteration of one or two other ingredients, and the +result, we do not hesitate to say, was the production of one of the most +delicious salads ever invented. Let careful housekeepers not given to +these "foreign dishes" remember that they are not only appetizing but +economical. + +120. =Spring Salad.=--Break one pint of fresh mustard tops, and one of +cresses, tear one good-sized lettuce, and chop two green onions; place +all lightly in a dish, and ornament it with celery and slices of boiled +beet. Use it with a cream dressing. + +121. =Watercress Salad.=--Serve one quart of watercresses with one chopped +green onion, one teaspoonful of ground horseradish, one tablespoonful of +lemon juice, and two of oil, simply poured over. + +122. =Mint Salad.=--Wash and clean the tender tops of one quart of +spearmint, lay them in a bowl with one tablespoonful of chopped chives, +and dress them with brown sugar and vinegar, or _sweet sauce_. This is +an excellent accompaniment for roast lamb. + +123. =Cauliflower Salad.=--Place in a salad bowl one underdone +cauliflower, broken in branches, six small silver onions, six radishes, +ornament with the hearts of two white lettuces, and one dessertspoonful +each of chopped olives and capers; dress it with cream sauce, or plain +oil and vinegar. + +124. =Dandelion Salad.=--This salad is a favorite European dish; one pint +of the plants are carefully washed and placed in a salad bowl with an +equal quantity of watercresses, three green onions or leeks sliced, a +teaspoonful of salt, and plenty of oil or cream dressing. This is one of +the most healthful and refreshing of all early salads. + +125. =Asparagus Salad.=--Cut the green tops of two bunches of cold +asparagus one inch long, mix them with the leaves of one lettuce, a few +sprigs of mint, and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, ornament with tufts +of leaves, and serve with a Mayonnaise. + +126. =Shad-roe Salad.=--Boil two roes, separate the grains by washing them +in vinegar, place them in a salad bowl, with one head of tender lettuce +and one pint of ripe tomatoes cut thin; dress them with two +tablespoonfuls each of oil, lemon juice, and strained tomato pulp, +seasoned with cayenne pepper. + +127. =Green Pea Salad.=--Place one pint of cold boiled peas in a bowl with +one tablespoonful of powdered sugar; pour over them two tablespoonfuls +of oil and one of vinegar, and garnish with two cucumbers delicately +sliced. This salad is excellent with a Mayonnaise. + +128. =Orange Salad.=--Divest four under-ripe oranges of all rind and pith, +slice them into a dish, season with a little cayenne pepper, add the +rind of one minced, the juice of one lemon and a tablespoonful of oil if +desired; decorate with tarragon tops. + +129. =Spinach Salad.=--Place one pint of lettuce leaves, and one pint of +tender spinach tops in a bowl with a few fresh mint leaves, dress them +with oil and vinegar plain, and decorate them with sliced hard boiled +eggs. A ravigote sauce is excellent with this salad. + +130. =Tomato Salad.=--Slice one quart of ripe tomatoes, sprinkle with +cayenne pepper, garnish with chervil or fennel, and dress with oil or +lemon juice three tablespoonfuls of each. + +131. =Nasturtium Salad.=--Tear two white lettuces into the salad bowl, +sprinkle over them one tablespoonful of pickled nasturtiums, or capers, +dress with simple oil and vinegar, and garnish with fresh nasturtium +blossoms. + +In mixing salad dressings, first, carefully stir together all the +ingredients except the oil and vinegar, and add these gradually and +alternately a few drops at a time. + +132. =Cream Dressing.=--Where oil is disliked in salads the following +dressing will be found excellent. Rub the yolks of two hard boiled eggs +very fine with a spoon, incorporate with them a dessertspoonful of mixed +mustard, then stir in a tablespoonful of melted butter, half a teacupful +of thick cream, a saltspoonful of salt, and cayenne pepper enough to +take up on the point of a very small pen-knife blade, and a few drops of +anchovy or Worcestershire sauce; add very carefully sufficient vinegar +to reduce the mixture to a smooth creamy consistency; and pour it upon +lettuce carefully prepared for the table. + +133. =English Salad Sauce.=--Break the yolk of one hard boiled egg with a +silver fork, add to it a saltspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of dry +mustard, a mashed mealy potato, two dessertspoonfuls each of cream and +oil, and one tablespoonful of vinegar; mix until smooth and firm. + +134. =Remolade.=--Beat a fresh raw egg, add to it a teaspoonful of mixed +mustard, and three tablespoonfuls of oil; when smooth add just enough +vinegar to change the color slightly. + +135. =Sweet Sauce.=--Mix well two tablespoonfuls of oil, the raw yolk of +one egg, a saltspoonful of salt, a half that quantity of pepper, one +tablespoonful of vinegar, and a dessertspoonful of moist sugar. + +136. =Piquante Salad Sauce.=--Mix together the yolks of two hard boiled +and two raw eggs; add one tablespoonful each of cream and oil; and, +when smooth, enough Chili or tarragon vinegar to season sharply, about +two tablespoonfuls. + +137. =Green Remolade.=--One dessertspoonful each of chopped tarragon, +chives, and sorrel, pounded in a mortar; add a saltspoonful of salt, +half that quantity of mignonette pepper, one tablespoonful of mixed +mustard, a gill of oil, and the raw yolks of three eggs; when pounded +quite smooth, dilute it with a little vinegar, and strain it through a +sieve. + +138. =Oil Sauce.=--Pound in a mortar one shallot or two button onions, the +yolks of two hard boiled eggs, a saltspoonful of herbs, a tablespoonful +of vinegar, and enough oil to thicken it, about one gill. + +139. =Ravigote Sauce.=--Clean and chop a few salad herbs, put one +teaspoonful of each into a small pan with a tablespoonful of meat jelly +or thick stock, and a little pepper and salt; stir till the jelly is +hot, and then add one tablespoonful of vinegar, and two of good oil; +when thoroughly mixed set the sauce-pan into a cool place, or pour out +the mixture on a dish until it is wanted for use. + +140. =Egg Dressing.=--Chop the yolks and whites of two hard boiled eggs +separately, but not fine; strew them upon any salad after having dressed +it with two tablespoonfuls of cream, and one of white vinegar. + +141. =Anchovy Salad Sauce.=--Mix until smooth two raw eggs, one +teaspoonful of the essence of anchovy, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and +two of oil. + +142. =Swiss Dressing.=--Pound two ounces of old cheese in a mortar, add +one tablespoonful of vinegar, a little salt and pepper, and dilute to +the consistency of cream with oil. + +143. =Spring Dressing.=--Beat the yolks of two raw eggs, add a teaspoonful +of salt, and a saltspoonful of dry mustard, chop one leek or two new +onions, and mix them in, then add three tablespoonfuls of oil and one of +vinegar and mix thoroughly; tear up two heads of lettuce, putting thin +slices of boiled beets upon it, and pour the dressing over all. + +144. =Mayonnaise.=--Place in the bottom of a salad bowl the yolk of one +raw egg, a level teaspoonful of salt, the same quantity of dry mustard, +a saltspoonful of white pepper, as much cayenne as can be taken up on +the point of a very small pen-knife blade, and the juice of half a +lemon; mix these ingredients with a wooden salad spoon until they assume +a creamy white appearance; then add, drop by drop, three gills of salad +oil, stirring the _mayonnaise_ constantly; if it thickens too rapidly, +thin it with a little of the juice from the second half of the lemon, +until all is used; and towards the finish add gradually four +tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Keep it cool until wanted for use. + +145. =Hot Salad Sauce.=--This sauce when cold is an excellent and +economical substitute for the more expensive _mayonnaise_. + +PART 1.--Put one ounce each of butter and flour into a sauce-pan over +the fire, and stir until it is melted, add gradually half a pint of +boiling water, season with a teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a +saltspoonful of white pepper, stir till smooth, and set a little away +from the fire, while you make the following sauce. + +PART 2.--Put the yolk of one raw egg in a salad bowl, add a quarter of a +saltspoonful of salt, half that quantity of grated nutmeg, as much +cayenne as you can take up on the point of a very small pen-knife blade; +mix these ingredients with a wooden salad spoon thoroughly, and then +add, a few drops at a time and alternately, three tablespoonfuls of oil, +and one of vinegar. Pour the preparation marked _part 1_, into this, +gradually stirring until the sauces are thoroughly mixed; cool and use. +This sauce will keep for weeks in a cool place. + +146. =Romaine Salad Dressing.=--Grate half an ounce of onion, mix it with +a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a saltspoonful each of salt and powdered +sugar, a level saltspoonful each of white pepper, and dry mustard, then +gradually add three tablespoonfuls of oil, and one of vinegar. Use for +lettuce or tomato salad. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +VEGETABLES. + + +Soft water is the best for boiling all vegetables. Fresh vegetables boil +in one-third less time than stale ones. Green vegetables should be put +into plenty of boiling water and salt, and boiled rapidly, without +covering, only until tender enough to pierce with the finger nail; a bit +of common washing soda, or of carbonate of ammonia, as large as a dried +pea, put into the boiling water with any of the vegetables except beans, +counteracts any excess of mineral elements in them, and helps to +preserve their color. A lump of loaf sugar boiled with turnips +neutralizes their excessive bitterness. Cabbage, potatoes, carrots, +turnips, parsnips, onions, and beets, are injured by being boiled with +fresh meat, and they also hurt the color of the meat, and impair its +tenderness and flavor. When vegetables are cooked for use with salt +meat, the meat should first be cooked and taken from the pot liquor, and +the vegetables boiled in the latter. The following table will be a guide +in boiling vegetables, but it must be remembered that the youngest and +freshest boil in the least time; and that in winter all the roots except +potatoes require nearly double the time to cook, that they would take +in summer, when they are new; spinach, ten to fifteen minutes; brussels +sprouts, peas, cauliflowers, and asparagus, fifteen to twenty minutes; +potatoes, cabbage, corn, and string-beans, twenty to thirty minutes; +turnips, onions, and squash, twenty to forty minutes; beets, carrots, +and parsnips, about one hour. + +147. =Asparagus with Melted Butter.=--Trim the white tough ends from two +bunches of asparagus, tie it in packages of about a dozen stalks each; +put them into three quarts of boiling water, with three tablespoonfuls +of salt, and boil them gently until done, about twenty minutes; meantime +make some drawn butter according to receipt for caper sauce, omitting +the capers; fit two slices of toast to the bottom of the dish you intend +to use, dip it for one instant in the water in which the asparagus has +been boiled, lay it on the dish, and arrange the asparagus in a ring on +it with the heads in the centre; send the butter to the table in a gravy +boat, with the dish of asparagus. + +148. =Green Peas.=--Boil two quarts of freshly shelled peas in two quarts +of boiling water with half an ounce of butter, one bunch of green mint, +and one teaspoonful each of sugar and salt, until they begin to sink to +the bottom of the sauce-pan: drain them in a colander, season them with +a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper, and +send them to the table hot. + +149. =String Beans.=--These beans are generally marketed while they are +unripe, and cooked in the shell; in that condition two quarts of them +should be stringed, split in halves, cut in pieces two inches long, and +thrown into boiling water with a tablespoonful of salt, _but no soda or +ammonia should be added, as its action discolors them_; a few sprigs of +parsley and an ounce of pork can be boiled with them to their +improvement; when they are tender, which will be in about half an hour, +they should be drained, and served with melted butter, made as for caper +sauce, but without the capers. + +150. =Baked Beets.=--Clean eight smooth beets with a soft cloth or brush; +bake them in a moderate oven about one hour; rub off the skin, baste +them with butter and lemon juice, return them to the oven for five +minutes, and serve them hot. + +151. =Brussels Sprouts.=--Trim two quarts of Brussels sprouts, wash them +thoroughly, put them in three quarts of boiling water with two +tablespoonfuls of salt, and boil them gently until tender, about fifteen +minutes, shaking the sauce-pan occasionally; then drain them in a +colander, being careful not to break them; put them again into the +sauce-pan with one ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of lemon juice, a +saltspoonful of salt, and quarter of a saltspoonful of white pepper; +toss them gently over the fire, while you make some rounds of buttered +toast for the bottom of a platter; when this is ready shake the Brussels +sprouts upon it, and serve hot. Some persons like the addition of two +ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; and others serve them with the +_Bechamel_ sauce named in receipt No. 84. + +152. =Stuffed Cabbage.=--Cut the leaves of a large white cabbage as whole +as possible, cut out the stalks, wash the leaves well, and boil them +_only until tender_, in three quarts of boiling water and salt, with a +piece of soda as large as a dried pea; have ready some sausage meat +highly seasoned, and as soon as the cabbage is tender carefully drain it +in a colander, run cold water from the faucet over it, and, without +tearing the leaves, lay them open on the table, two or three upon each +other, making eight or ten piles. Divide the sausage meat, and lay a +portion in the centre of each, fold the cabbage over it in a compact +roll and tie it in place with cord; lay the rolls on a baking sheet, +season with salt and pepper, put over each a tablespoonful of any rich +brown gravy and brown a little in a quick oven; serve at once, on small +rounds of toast. + +153. =Red Cabbage.=--Cut a firm head of red cabbage in shreds, lay it in +a sauce-pan with the following ingredients; one gill of vinegar, one +teaspoonful each of ground cloves and salt, half a saltspoonful of +pepper, two ounces of butter, and two ounces of sugar; stew it gently +until tender, about one hour, shaking the pan to prevent burning, and +serve it hot. + +154. =Baked Cauliflower.=--Thoroughly wash a large cauliflower, boil it +in plenty of boiling water and salt, until tender, about twenty minutes; +drain it whole; pour over it one gill of _Bechamel_ sauce, made as in +receipt No. 84, dust it thickly with cracker dust, or bread crumbs, and +Parmesan cheese, mixed in equal proportions, and brown it ten minutes +in a quick oven. + +155. =Baked Turnips.=--Pare six large yellow turnips, slice them, and boil +them till tender in plenty of salted water; drain them, put them on a +flat dish in layers, pour over them half a pint of _Bechamel_ sauce, +dust them thickly with crumbs and grated Parmesan cheese; brown them in +a quick oven, and serve hot. + +156. =Glazed Onions.=--Pare three dozen button onions, put them on a tin +dish, pour over them a very little Spanish sauce or brown gravy, just +enough to moisten them, season them with a teaspoonful of salt, and +quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; brown them in a quick oven, shaking +them occasionally to color them equally; serve hot. + +157. =Mushroom Pudding.=--Cleanse a quart of fresh mushrooms, cut them in +small pieces, mix them with half a pound of minced ham or bacon, season +them with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of pepper; +spread them on a roly-poly crust made by mixing one pound of flour, half +a pound of shortening, and a teaspoonful of salt, with about one pint of +water: roll up the crust, tie it tightly in a floured cloth, and boil it +about two hours in boiling stock, or salted water; serve hot with bread, +or vegetables. + +158. =Boiled Potatoes.=--Potatoes should be prepared for boiling by first +carefully washing them, removing the deep eyes or defective parts, and +then paring off one ring all around the potato; place them in cold water +with a little salt; when cooked, which will be in from twenty to thirty +minutes, pour off all the water, cover them with a clean, coarse towel, +_leaving off the lid of the pot_, and set them on a hot brick on the +back of the fire to steam. Potatoes treated in this way can be kept +fresh, hot and mealy for hours. Medium-sized and smooth potatoes are the +most economical to use, and the kind should be selected in reference to +the season. + +159. =Lyonnaise Potatoes.=--Chop two ounces of onion, and fry it pale +yellow in two ounces of butter; meantime peel boiled potatoes, either +hot or cold, cut them in slices, put them into the pan containing the +onion and butter, season them with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a +saltspoonful of pepper, fry them pale brown, shaking the pan to prevent +burning, and tossing it to brown them evenly; sprinkle with two +tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, and serve at once. + +160. =Stuffed Potatoes.=--Wash twelve large potatoes with a brush; bake +them _only until they begin to soften_; not more than half an hour; cut +off one end, scoop out the inside with a teaspoon into a sauce-pan +containing two ounces of butter, one saltspoonful of white pepper, one +teaspoonful of salt, and two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese; stir all +these ingredients over the fire until they are scalding hot; then fill +the potato skins with the mixture, put on the ends, press the potatoes +gently in shape, heat them in the oven, and serve them on a hot dish +covered with a napkin, the potatoes being laid on the napkin. _Observe +never to cover a baked potato unless you want it to be heavy and +moist._ + +161. =Potato Snow.=--Peel a quart of white potatoes, and boil them as +directed in receipt No. 158; drain them thoroughly, put them in a sieve +over the dish in which they are to be served, and rub them through it +with a potato masher, or a wooden spoon; do not stir them after they are +put into the dish, and serve them hot. + +162. =Bermuda or New Potatoes.=--Wash a quart of new potatoes thoroughly, +put them into plenty of boiling water and salt, and boil them until +tender enough to pierce easily with a fork; drain off the water, cover +them with a towel, let them steam five minutes, and serve them in their +jackets. + +163. =Broiled Potatoes.=--Boil a quart of even sized potatoes until +tender, but do not let them grow mealy; drain off the water, peel the +potatoes, cut them in half inch slices, dip them in melted butter, and +broil them over a moderate fire; serve hot, with a little butter melted. + +164. =Saratoga Potatoes.=--Peel a quart of potatoes, cut them in very thin +slices, and lay them in cold water and salt for an hour or more; then +dry them on a towel, throw them into a deep kettle of smoking hot fat, +and fry them light brown; take them out of the fat with a skimmer into a +colander, scatter over them a teaspoonful of salt, shake them well +about, and turn them on a platter to serve. + +165. =Broiled Tomatoes.=--Wipe half a dozen large red tomatoes, cut them +in half inch slices, dip them in melted butter, season them with salt +and pepper, dip them in cracker crumbs, and broil them on an oiled +gridiron over a moderate fire, being very careful not to break the +slices in turning them. Serve them with chops for breakfast. + +166. =Stuffed Tomatoes.=--Cut off the tops from eight or ten large smooth +round tomatoes; scoop out the inside, and put it into a sauce-pan with +quarter of a pound of scraps of ham, bacon or tongue minced fine, a +saltspoonful of salt, two ounces of butter, half an ounce of chopped +parsley, and four ounces of grated cheese and bread crumbs mixed; stir +these ingredients over the fire until they are scalding hot, fill the +tomato skins with this forcemeat, fit them neatly together, dust them +with sifted bread crumbs, put over each a very little sweet oil to +prevent burning, brown them in a quick oven, and serve them on a hot +dish with their own gravy turned over them. + +167. =Saratoga Onions.=--Slice half a dozen delicately flavored onions in +small strips; drop them into plenty of smoking hot fat, fry them pale +brown, and drain them for a moment in a colander. Serve hot for +breakfast or lunch. + +168. =Fried Beans.=--Fry two ounces of chopped onions in one ounce of +butter until golden brown; put into them about a quart of cold boiled +white beans, season them with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a +saltspoonful of pepper, moisten them with half a pint of any brown +gravy, and serve them hot. + +169. =Ham and Beans.=--Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of butter, half a +saltspoonful each of salt and pepper, one quart of cold beans, and +quarter of a pound of ham chopped fine; moisten these ingredients with +a little gravy of any kind, heat them thoroughly, and serve at once. + +170. =Kolcannon.=--Mince an ounce of onion, fry it pale yellow in one +ounce of butter, add to it equal parts of cold boiled potatoes and +cabbage, season with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a saltspoonful of +pepper, and fry for fifteen minutes; serve hot for breakfast or lunch. + +171. =Carrot Stew.=--Clean, boil, and quarter three large carrots; cut the +pieces in two; simmer them gently in milk enough to cover them, season +with a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper; when they are +quite tender take them off the fire long enough to stir in the raw yolk +of an egg, return them to the fire two minutes to cook the egg, and +serve them hot at once. + +172. =Baked Mushrooms.=--Clean a quart of medium sized mushrooms, trim off +the roots, dip them first in some _maitre d'hotel_ butter made of equal +parts of chopped parsley, lemon juice, and sweet butter, then roll them +in cracker or bread crumbs, lay them on a dish, and just brown them in a +quick oven. + +173. =Stuffed Lettuce.=--Choose four round firm heads of lettuce, first +bring them to a boil in hot water and salt, drain them carefully, cut +out the stalk end, fill the inside of the head with minced veal or +chicken highly seasoned, lay them on a baking pan, put a tablespoonful +of some brown gravy over each, and then bake in a moderate oven about +fifteen minutes. + +174. =Stewed Parsnips.=--Wash eight parsnips, carefully cut each in four +pieces, boil them in plenty of water, until tender, from twenty minutes +to an hour, according to the season; then drain off the water, make a +layer of quarter of a pound of salt pork on the bottom of the pot, put +the parsnips in again, and fry them until brown; serve the pork with +them on a platter. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +CHEAP DISHES WITHOUT MEAT. + + +"Bread is the staff of life;" in all ages and countries farinaceous +foods have formed the bulk of man's sustenance; under this general term +we include macaroni, which contains more gluten than bread and +consequently is more nourishing, the different wheat flours, oat and +barley meal, pearl barley, peas, beans, and lentils; the latter are the +nearest article to meat in point of nourishment, containing heat-food in +quantity nearly equal to wheat, and twice as much flesh food. Lentils +have been used for food in older countries from time immemorial, and it +is quite time that we should become acquainted with their merits; a +lentil soup is given in the second chapter, and in this we append some +excellent directions for cooking this invaluable food. One quart of +lentils when cooked will make four pounds of hearty food. There are two +varieties in market; the small flat brown seed, called lentils _a la +reine_; and a larger kind, about the size of peas, and of a greenish +color; both sorts are equally well flavored and nutritious. There is no +reason why, with judicious seasoning, the "dinner of herbs" should lack +the gustatory enjoyment which is popularly supposed to belong to the +repast furnished by the "stalled ox;" especially if we are economical +enough to save towards making it any pot-liquor, or cold meat gravy or +drippings, which are left from a feast-day. + +175. =Potato Soup.=--Slice six onions, fry them brown with two ounces of +drippings, then add two ounces of flour and brown it; add four quarts of +boiling water, and stir till the soup boils; season with a level +tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper; add one quart of +potatoes peeled and cut fine, and boil all until they are tender; then +stir in four ounces of oatmeal mixed smooth with a pint of cold water, +and boil fifteen minutes; this soup should be stirred often enough to +prevent burning; when it is nearly done mix together off the fire one +ounce each of butter and flour, and stir them into the soup; when it +boils up pass through a sieve with a wooden spoon, and serve hot with +plenty of bread. + +176. =Scotch Crowdie.=--Boil one pound of oatmeal one hour in four quarts +of any kind of pot-liquor, stirring often enough to prevent burning; +season with one tablespoonful of salt, a level saltspoonful of pepper, +one ounce of butter, and serve with plenty of bread. + +177. =Peas-pudding.=--Soak three pints of dried peas in cold water over +night; tie them loosely in a clean cloth, and boil them about two hours +in pot-liquor or water, putting them into it cold and bringing them +gradually to a boil; drain them, pass them through a sieve with a wooden +spoon, season them with a level tablespoonful of salt, half a +saltspoonful of pepper, one ounce of butter, and one egg, if it is on +hand; mix, tie in a clean cloth, and boil half an hour longer; then turn +it from the cloth, on a dish, and serve hot. + +178. =Red Herrings with Potatoes.=--Soak a dozen herrings in cold water +for one hour; dry and skin them, split them down the back, and lay them +in a pan with two ounces of drippings, two ounces of onion chopped fine, +a saltspoonful of pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of vinegar; and set +them in a moderate oven to brown for ten or fifteen minutes: meantime, +boil one quart of potatoes, with a ring of the paring taken off, in +plenty of boiling water and salt, pouring off the water as soon as they +are tender, and letting them stand on the back of the fire, covered with +a dry towel, for five minutes; serve them with the herrings, taking care +to dish both quite hot. + +179. =Oatmeal Porridge.=--Boil two ounces of chopped onion in two quarts +of skim milk; mix half a pound of oatmeal smooth with about a pint of +milk, pour it into the boiling milk, season it with a tablespoonful of +salt, boil it about twenty minutes, stirring to prevent burning, and +serve hot. + +180. =Cheese Pudding.=--Into two quarts of boiling water, containing two +tablespoonfuls of salt, stir one pound of yellow Indian meal, and three +quarters of a pound of grated cheese; boil it for twenty minutes, +stirring it occasionally to prevent burning; then put it in a buttered +baking pan, sprinkle over the top quarter of a pound of grated cheese, +and brown in a quick oven. Serve hot. If any remains, slice it cold and +fry it brown. + +181. =Polenta.=--Boil one pound of yellow Indian meal for half an hour, in +two quarts of pot-liquor, stirring it occasionally to prevent burning; +then bake it for half an hour in a buttered baking dish, and serve it +either hot; or, when cold, slice it and fry it in smoking hot fat. This +favorite Italian dish is closely allied to the hasty-pudding of New +England, whose praises have been sung by poe-tasters. + +182. =Fish Pudding.=--Make a plain paste by mixing quarter of a pound of +lard or sweet drippings with half a pound of flour, a teaspoonful of +salt, and just water enough to make a stiff paste; roll it out; line the +edges of a deep pudding dish with it half way down; fill the dish with +layers of fresh codfish cut in small pieces, using two or three pounds, +season each layer with salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and chopped +onions, using one tablespoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of pepper, two +bay leaves, a saltspoonful of thyme, four ounces of onion, and half an +ounce of parsley; fill up the dish with any cold gravy, milk, or water, +cover with paste, and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven; finish by +baking half an hour in a moderate oven; serve hot. + +183. =Lentils boiled plain.=--Wash two pounds of lentils well in cold +water, put them over the fire, in four quarts of cold water with one +ounce of drippings, one tablespoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of +pepper, and boil slowly until tender, that is about three hours; drain +off the little water which remains, add to the lentils one ounce of +butter, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of sugar, and +a little more salt and pepper if required, and serve them hot. Always +save the water in which they are boiled; with the addition of a little +thickening and seasoning, it makes a very nourishing soup. + +184. =Stewed Lentils.=--Put plain boiled lentils into a sauce-pan, cover +them with any kind of pot-liquor, add one ounce of chopped onion, two +ounces of butter, quarter of an ounce of chopped parsley, and stew +gently for twenty minutes; serve hot. + +185. =Fried Lentils.=--Fry one ounce of chopped onion brown in two ounces +of drippings, add plain boiled lentils, see if they are properly +seasoned, and brown them well; serve hot. + +186. =Norfolk Dumplings.=--Mix well together two pounds of flour, one +dessertspoonful of salt, and two pints of milk; divide the dough in +twelve equal parts, and drop them into a pot of boiling pot-liquor, or +boiling water; boil them steadily half an hour. They should be eaten +hot, with gravy, sweet drippings, or a little molasses. + +187. =Salt Cod with Parsnips.=--Soak three pounds of salt fish over night, +with the skin uppermost, and boil it about one hour, putting it into +plenty of cold water. Meantime pare half a dozen parsnips, and cut them +in quarters, boil them half an hour, or longer, until tender, drain +them, and dish them around the fish. While the fish and parsnips are +cooking make the following sauce: mix two ounces of flour and one ounce +of butter or sweet drippings, over the fire until a smooth paste is +formed; then pour in half a pint of boiling water gradually, stirring +until the sauce is smooth, add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, season +with one saltspoonful of salt, and half that quantity of pepper; let the +sauce boil up thoroughly for about three minutes, and serve it with the +fish and parsnips. A hard boiled egg chopped and added to the sauce +improves it. + +188. =Pickled Mackerel.=--When fresh mackerel or herrings can be bought +cheap, clean enough to fill a two quart deep jar, pack them in it in +layers with a seasoning of a tablespoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of +powdered herbs a saltspoonful each of pepper and allspice, and cover +with vinegar and cold water, in equal parts. Bake about one hour in a +moderate oven. Serve with plain boiled potatoes. + +189. =Potato Pudding.=--Wash and peel two quarts of potatoes; peel and +slice about six ounces of onions; skin and bone two bloaters or large +herrings; put all these ingredients in a baking dish in layers seasoning +them with a dessertspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; pour +over them any cold gravy you have on hand, or add two or three ounces of +drippings; if you have neither of these, water will answer; bake the +pudding an hour and a half; serve hot, with bread. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +CHEAP DISHES WITH MEAT. + + +Those parts of meat which are usually called inferior, and sold at low +rates, such as the head, tongue, brains, pluck, tripe, feet, and tail, +can be cooked so as to become both nourishing and delicate. They are +more generally eaten in Europe than in this country, and they are really +worthy of careful preparation; for instance, take the haslet _ragout_, +the receipt for which is given further on in this chapter. The author +owes this receipt to the fortunate circumstance of one day procuring a +calf's liver direct from the slaughter-house, with the heart and lights +attached; the liver was to be larded and cooked as directed in receipt +No. 53, at a cooking lesson; the _chef_ said, after laying aside the +liver, "I will make for myself a dish of what the ladies would not +choose," and at the direction of the author he cooked it before the +class; the ladies tasted and approved. The nutritive value and flavor of +the dishes specified in this chapter are less than those of prime cuts +of meat, but properly combined with vegetables and cereals, they +completely take the place of those more expensive foods; they should be +thoroughly cooked, and well masticated; and can usually be digested +with greater ease than the more solid flesh. + +190. =Three dishes from a Neck of Mutton.=--PART I.--BARLEY BROTH WITH +VEGETABLES.--Trim a neck of mutton into neat cutlets, and reserve them +for _part 2_; put the bones and trimmings into three quarts of cold +water, boil slowly, and skim thoroughly: add six ounces of barley which +has been soaked in cold water over night, a bouquet of sweet herbs, two +teaspoonfuls of salt, and one saltspoonful of pepper, and simmer for two +hours; strain out one quart of the broth for _part 3_, then add six +ounces of carrots, four ounces of onions, and four ounces of yellow +turnips cut in dice about half an inch square, six ounces of oatmeal +mixed to a smooth batter with cold water, and simmer until the +vegetables are tender, which will be about half an hour: taste to try +the seasoning and serve hot.--PART II.--MUTTON STEW.--Cut half a quart +each of yellow turnips and potatoes into balls as large as marbles, +saving the trimmings to put into soup, and for mashed potatoes; peel six +ounces of small onions; put all these in separate vessels to boil until +tender enough to pierce with a fork; meantime put the cutlets in a hot +pan containing an ounce of drippings, and fry them brown quickly; stir +among them one ounce of dry flour; brown it, add one quart of boiling +water; season with one teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a +saltspoonful of pepper; drain the vegetables, put them with the meat and +gravy, and serve hot.--PART III.--FRIED PUDDING.--To the quart of broth +strained off as directed in _Part I_, and brought to the boiling point, +gradually add sufficient Indian meal to thicken it, about half a pound +will generally be enough; season with a teaspoonful of salt, and boil it +for twenty minutes, stirring it occasionally to prevent burning; pour it +out into a deep earthen dish, and let it stand long enough to grow +solid; then cut it in slices, and fry it brown in drippings; it can be +eaten with molasses for dessert. With proper management all these dishes +can be ready at one time, and will form a good and wholesome dinner. + +191. =Neck of Pork stuffed.=--Clean a neck of fresh pork, fill it with +sage and onion stuffing, made according to receipt No. ----; put it in a +dripping pan, with some small potatoes, peeled and washed well in cold +water, roast it brown, seasoning with a teaspoonful of salt, and half a +saltspoonful of pepper, when it is half done; when it is thoroughly +cooked serve it with the potatoes laid around it, and a gravy made from +the drippings in the pan cleared of fat, and thickened with a +teaspoonful of flour. + +192. =Pigs' Feet Fried.=--Thoroughly burn all the hairs off with a poker +heated to a white heat; then scald the feet, wipe them dry, and put them +over the fire to boil in cold water, with two ounces each of carrot and +onion, the latter stuck with six cloves, two tablespoonfuls of salt, +quarter of an ounce of parsley made into a bouquet with three bay leaves +and a sprig of thyme; boil them slowly four hours, or more, until you +can easily remove the bones. Split the feet in two pieces, and take out +all the large bones; have ready some sifted crumbs of cracker, or dry +bread, a little milk, or an egg beaten with a teaspoonful of water; dry +the pieces on a clean towel, roll them first in the crumbs, then dip +them in the milk or egg, and roll them again in the crumbs; fry them in +smoking hot lard, which you must afterwards strain and save to use +again, and lay them neatly on a hot dish; they will make an appetizing +and nourishing meal. + +193. =Pigs' Tongue and Brains.=--Soak them in cold water with two +tablespoonfuls of salt for two hours; then put them into cold water over +the fire, with two ounces each of carrot and onion, the latter stuck +with three cloves, a bouquet of sweet herbs, and a tablespoonful of +vinegar, and boil slowly fifteen minutes; take out the brains leaving +the tongue still boiling, and put them in cold water to cool; then +carefully remove the thin membrane or skin covering the brains, without +breaking them; season them with a saltspoonful of salt and quarter of a +saltspoonful of pepper, roll them in cracker crumbs, and fry them brown +in smoking hot fat. By this time the tongue will be tender; take it up, +lay it on a dish between the brains, put a few sprigs of parsley, +celery, mint or watercresses, around them and serve them hot. This +inexpensive dish is very delicate and nutritious. + +194. =Roasted Tripe.=--Cut some tripe in pieces three inches long by six +wide; cover each one with highly seasoned sausage-meat, roll up, and tie +with a string; lay the rolls in a dripping pan, dredge them well with +flour, and set them in the oven to bake, basting them with the liquor +which flows from them; when they are nicely browned, dish them up with a +slice of lemon on each one. Some melted butter may be put over them if +desired. + +195. =Ragout of Haslet.=--Wash the lights, cut them in two inch pieces, +put them into a sauce-pan with one ounce each of butter, salt pork +sliced, onion chopped, one dessertspoonful of salt, and half a +saltspoonful of black pepper; two bay leaves, two sprigs of parsley and +one of thyme, tied in a bouquet, one ounce of flour, one gill of +vinegar, half a pint of cold gravy or cold water, and six potatoes +peeled and cut in dice; stew all these ingredients gently together for +two hours, and serve as you would a stew, with a tablespoonful of +chopped parsley sprinkled over the top. + +196. =Cock-a-leeky.=--Pluck, singe, and draw a cheap fowl, as directed in +receipt No. ----; break the breast bone down with a rolling-pin, tie the +fowl in a plump shape, put it into a sauce-pan with four quarts of cold +water, one pound of rice, first washed in cold water, a tablespoonful of +salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, and a bunch of leeks weighing about +a pound, cut in two-inch pieces. Boil all gently for three hours, +stirring occasionally to prevent the rice burning; serve the fowl on one +dish with a tablespoonful of parsley chopped and sprinkled over it, and +the rice and broth in a soup tureen or deep dish. + +197. =Italian Cheese.=--Chop a pig's pluck, and two pounds of scraps or +trimmings of fresh pork, season this forcemeat to taste with the spice +salt of mixed spices and sweet herbs named in Chapter first; put it into +an earthen jar with a lid, seal the lid with a paste made of flour and +water, and oiled upon the surface to prevent cracking; put the jar in a +moderate oven, and bake the cheese three hours, slowly. This dish is +eaten cold with bread, in place of butter, and makes a hearty meal. + +198. =Gammon Dumpling.=--Make a plain paste of two pounds of flour, one +dessertspoonful of salt, half a pound of finely chopped suet or scraps, +and sufficient cold water to mix it to a stiff dough; roll this out +about half an inch thick, spread over it about two pounds of any cheap +cut of bacon or ham, finely chopped, roll up the dumpling as you would a +roly-poly pudding, tie it tightly in a clean cloth, and boil it in +boiling water, or boiling pot-liquor, for about three hours. Serve it +hot, with plain boiled potatoes. + +199. =Toad-in-the-Hole.=--Cut two pounds of the cheapest parts of any good +meat into small pieces, roll them in flour, pepper, and salt, and fry +them brown in two ounces of drippings; meantime prepare a batter as +follows; mix one pound of flour, one heaping teaspoonful of salt, half a +nutmeg grated, and two eggs, stirred in without beating; gradually add +three pints of skim-milk, making a smooth batter; add the meat and its +gravy to this batter, put it in a greased baking dish, and bake it +slowly about two hours. Serve it with plain boiled potatoes. + +200. =Bacon Roly-Poly.=--Boil a pound and a half of bacon for half an +hour; then slice it thin; peel and slice six apples and the same number +of onions; make a stiff dough of two pounds of flour, a teaspoonful of +salt, and cold water; roll it out half an inch thick; lay the bacon, +apples, and onion all over it, roll it up, tie it tightly in a clean +cloth, and boil it about two hours, in plenty of boiling water. Serve it +with boiled potatoes, or boiled cabbage. + +201. =Baked Ox-heart.=--Clean the heart thoroughly; stuff it with the +following forcemeat; one ounce of onion chopped fine, a tablespoonful of +chopped parsley, a saltspoonful of powdered sage or thyme, a teaspoonful +of salt, half a small loaf of bread, and enough warm water to moisten +the bread; mix, stuff the heart with it, and bake it an hour in a good +hot oven, basting it occasionally with the liquor that flows from it, +and when half done seasoning it well with salt and pepper. Serve hot +with plain boiled potatoes, or with potatoes peeled, and baked in the +pan with the heart. + +202. =Tripe and Onions.=--Cut two pounds of tripe in pieces two inches +square; peel and slice six large onions and ten potatoes; slice a +quarter of a pound of salt pork or bacon; put the bacon in the bottom of +a pot, with the tripe and vegetables in layers on it, seasoning with a +tablespoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and the same of +powdered herbs; mix a pound of flour gradually with a quart and a half +of cold water, pour it over the tripe and vegetables, and boil it gently +for two hours. Serve hot with bread. + +203. =Peas and Bacon.=--Cut a quarter of a pound of fat bacon in small +bits, and fry it brown with two ounces of onions sliced; then add four +ounces of split peas, one tablespoonful of salt, one saltspoonful of +pepper, one teaspoonful of sugar, and four quarts of cold water; boil it +until the peas are reduced to a pulp, which will be about three hours; +then stir in sufficient oatmeal to thicken it, and boil slowly twenty +minutes, stirring it occasionally; serve hot; or when cold, slice and +fry it brown. + +204. =Pot-au-feu.=--Put into four quarts of cold water one pound of cheap +lean meat, and one pound of liver whole, some bones, cut into bits, two +tablespoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, four leeks cut in +pieces, and the following vegetables whole; four carrots, four turnips, +and four onions, each stuck with two cloves; boil all gently for three +hours, skimming occasionally, and adding two tablespoonfuls of cold +water about every half hour; take up the meat and the liver on a +platter, arrange the vegetables neatly around them, and serve the broth +in a tureen, with plenty of bread. + +205. =Ragout of Mutton.=--Cut four pounds of the scrag end of mutton in +small pieces; peel a quart of turnips and cut them in round pieces as +large as a walnut, and fry them brown in four ounces of fat; take them +up, mix into the fat four ounces of flour, and brown it; add the mutton +and sufficient cold water to cover the meat, and stir until it boils; +season with a tablespoonful of salt, half a saltspoonful of pepper, a +teaspoonful of sugar, and an ounce of onion if the flavor is liked; +simmer gently until the meat is tender, about two hours; then add the +turnips, heat them, and serve hot. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +THE CHILDREN'S CHAPTER. + + +Any elaborate discussion of the relations of food to the needs of the +body would not come within the scope of a work of this character; but +there are a few facts concerning the diet of children to which we would +call the attention of those mothers who wish their little brood to +brighten home with radiant eyes, rosy cheeks, plump, graceful forms, and +hearts bubbling over with the vivacity which springs from perfect +health. Let them discard sago, arrowroot, and tapioca, all largely +composed of starch, as comparatively useless in nourishing the growing +body, which calls for the most complete nutrients; these often do very +well in illness, where no great degree of nourishment is necessary, and +where simply a given quantity of bland, innutritious food is required to +help the system do without stronger aliment, calculated to irritate +overworked and sensitive organs. + +Indigestible articles, such as fat meat, rich pastry, hot bread, unripe +fruit and vegetables, tea, coffee, spices, and stimulants, should be +avoided in the diet of children. Good wheaten bread, farina, ripe fruit, +fresh vegetables, meat-juices, milk, and sugar, should make up the list +of staples; when meats are used they should be nutritious and +digestible, such as good mutton, young beef, and tender poultry; bread +and milk and fruit, for breakfast; meat, vegetables, bread and some +light dessert, for dinner; bread and milk, or their equivalents, for +supper; in other words, plain food and plenty of it, will keep mind and +body in a sound condition, and supply all the requirements of growth. + +Meats should be carefully cooked, so as to preserve all their natural +juices; but no rich sauces, or made gravies, should accompany them to +the table; a few ripe vegetables cooked until perfectly tender, roasted +or baked potatoes, seed-bearing fruits, generally stewed, and plenty of +light bread at least a day old, should be eaten with the meat. In +stewing fruit only enough water should be used to prevent burning, and +plenty of sugar should be employed to sweeten it; all fruit is less apt +to be injurious if eaten early in the day. Eggs should be plain boiled, +and rather soft. Milk should be boiled when there is any undue action of +the bowels; otherwise it should be used uncooked with plenty of bread. + +Hearty, vigorous children, who play much in the open air, can digest +more meat than those who are confined indoors; and the cravings of a +healthy appetite should always be appeased, care being taken that the +stomach has the proper intervals of rest. Regularity of meals is really +most important at all ages; the digestive organs must have time to +assimilate their food supply. In childhood and youth, the period of +growth, the needs of the system are more pressing than at any other +time of life; if at this time children are fed on rich and stimulating +food, they will be prone to fevers; if they are underfed they suffer +both mentally and physically from slow starvation; equal and regular +nutrition is imperative to the well being of the little ones, if we +would have them grow up capable of performing in the fullest degree the +highest functions of life. Therefore give the children plenty of plain, +wholesome food; their active systems will appropriate it. If they +continue serene in temper, equable in disposition, and generally +healthy,--if the eyes are bright, the skin clear, the sleep serene,--the +diet is proper and sufficient. + +In the following receipts for preparing children's food the quantities +are calculated for four. + +206. =Oatmeal Porridge.=--Oatmeal is an extremely strengthening food; when +it is well cooked it produces a large volume of nutritive matter in +proportion to its bulk; and combined with milk it is the strongest and +best of the cereals. Its flavor is sweet and pleasant; it appears in +market in two forms, a rather rough meal, and the unbroken grain, after +the husk has been removed; in either shape it should be thoroughly +boiled, and combined with milk. A good thick porridge can be made by +stirring four ounces of oatmeal into a quart of boiling milk, and then +pouring this into a quart of water boiling on the fire, and allowing it +to boil half or three-quarters of an hour; care must be taken not to +burn it; just before it is done it should be seasoned with a teaspoonful +of salt; and sweetened to taste at the table. + +207. =A good Breakfast= can be made of fresh milk sweetened with a little +sugar and eaten with bread a day old, lightly buttered. + +208. =Stewed Fruit.=--Put a quart of apples pared and sliced over the fire +in a thick sauce-pan, with half a pint of water, to prevent burning, and +when tender break them well up and sweeten them with four ounces or more +of sugar, according to the flavor of the apples. Serve them with bread +and butter in the morning, or at noon. + +209. =Ripe Currants.=--A pound of ripe currants mashed, and mixed with +half a pound, or more, of sugar, makes an excellent accompaniment for +bread, being served spread upon the slices. + +210. =Blackberry Jam.=--This is an invaluable addition to the breakfast, +or noon dinner, in place of butter. It is an excellent agent for +regulating the action of the bowels. It is made by boiling with every +pound of thoroughly ripe blackberries half a pound of good brown sugar; +the boiling to be continued one hour, and the berries well broken up. + +211. =Baked Fruit.=--In addition to baking apples in the ordinary way, +plums, peaches, pears, and berries, are good when put into a stone jar +with layers of stale bread and sugar, and about a gill of water, and +baking the fruit slowly in a moderate oven for an hour and a half. + +212. =Broiled Chops.=--Trim nearly all the fat from a pound of loin mutton +chops, broil them over a clear, bright fire for about fifteen minutes, +taking care not to burn them; when they are done put them on a hot +platter, season them with half a teaspoonful of salt, and if they are +very dry put a little butter over them, using not more than a quarter of +an ounce. Serve them with mashed potatoes. + +213. =Beefsteak.=--A tender sirloin steak is the best cut for general use. +It should be chosen in accordance with the directions given in the +chapter on marketing, and broiled over a brisk, clear fire for about +twenty minutes; the seasoning of salt should be added after it is taken +from the fire, and placed on a hot dish; and but very little butter, if +any, should be used. Serve it with baked potatoes, finely broken with a +fork. + +214. =Broiled Chicken.=--A tender, but not very fat chicken, makes an +excellent dinner for children. It should be plucked, singed, split down +the back, carefully drawn, and wiped with a damp cloth, but not washed; +the joints and breast-bone should be broken with the rolling pin, the +chicken being covered with a folded towel to protect the flesh; it +should then be broiled, inside first, over a clear, brisk fire, or +better still, laid in a pan on a couple of slices of bread, and quickly +roasted in a hot oven; by the latter process all the juices of the bird +are saved; some gravy will flow from a good chicken, and from this the +superfluous fat should be removed; if the chicken is very fat the bread +under it should not be given to the children. + +215. =Boiled Eggs.=--Eggs are usually spoiled in cooking; if they are +plunged into boiling water, and maintained at the boiling point, the +effect is to harden the albumen while the yolk remains almost raw, and +make them totally unfit for digestion. A good way to cook them is to +place them over the fire in cold water, bring them slowly to a boil, and +then at once set the vessel containing them back from the fire, and let +the eggs stand in the water about one minute if they are to be soft, and +two minutes, or longer, if they are to be hard. Poor eggs cooked in this +way are superior in flavor and digestibility to new-laid eggs boiled +rapidly. One minute is quite long enough to boil them if they are wanted +in their best condition. + +216. =Baked Potatoes.=--Potatoes for baking should be of equal and medium +size, with smooth skins; they should be well washed with a brush or +cloth, and put into a quick oven; they will bake in from twenty to +thirty-five minutes, according to variety and ripeness; as soon as you +find they yield readily when pressed between the fingers, they are done; +and should be served at once, _uncovered_. If they stand they grow +heavy, and if you put them in a covered dish you will make them watery. + +217. =Boiled Potatoes.=--Potatoes for children's use should be very +carefully boiled; and if not used as soon as they are done, should be +kept hot and dry, by pouring off the water, covering them with a dry +cloth, and setting them on the back of the stove. After washing them +thoroughly, pare them entirely, or take off one ring around each; if +they are new, put them over the fire in hot water; if they are old, put +them on in cold water; in either case, add a tablespoonful of salt, and +boil them from fifteen to thirty minutes, as they require, until you can +pierce them easily with a fork; then drain off all the water, cover them +with a clean dry towel, and set them on the back of the fire until you +are ready to use them. + +218. =Apple Cake.=--Grate a small loaf of stale bread; pare and slice +about a quart of apples; lightly butter a pudding mould, dust it well +with flour, and then with sugar, and fill it with layers of bread +crumbs, apples, and sugar, using a very little cinnamon to flavor it; +let the top layer be of crumbs, and put a few bits of butter on it; bake +the cake for one hour in a moderate oven; and serve it for dessert. + +219. =Fruit Farina.=--Sprinkle three tablespoonfuls of farina into one +quart of boiling milk, using a sauce-pan set into a kettle of boiling +water, in order to prevent burning; flavor and sweeten to taste, and +boil for half an hour, stirring occasionally; then add one pint of any +ripe berries, or sliced apples, and boil until the fruit is cooked, +about twenty minutes: the pudding may be boiled in a mould or a cloth +after the fruit is added. It should be served with powdered sugar. + +220. =Plain Cookies.=--Beat one egg with one cup of sugar to a cream, work +two ounces of butter soft, and beat it with the egg and sugar, grate in +quarter of a nutmeg, add one gill of milk, and prepared flour enough to +make a sufficiently stiff paste to roll out about a pound. Roll an +eighth of an inch thick, cut out with a biscuit cutter, or an inverted +cup, and lay on a floured baking pan, and bake about twenty minutes in +a moderate oven. + +221. =Plain Gingerbread.=--Partly melt one ounce of butter, stir it into +half a pint of molasses, with a tablespoonful of ground ginger, and half +a pint of boiling water, stir in smoothly half a pound of prepared +flour, and pour the batter into a buttered baking pan; bake it about +half an hour in a quick oven, trying it with a broom straw, at the end +of twenty minutes; as soon as the straw passes through it without +sticking, the cake is done. + +222. =Strawberry Shortcake.=--Rub two ounces of butter into a pound of +prepared flour, mix it stiff enough to mould with about half a pint of +milk; put the dough upon a round tin plate, gently flattening with the +roller; bake it about twenty minutes in a quick oven, trying it with a +broom straw to be sure it is done, before taking it from the oven; let +it cool a little, tear it open by first separating the edges all around +with a fork, and then pulling it in two pieces; upon the bottom put a +thick layer of strawberries, or any perfectly ripe fruit, plentifully +sprinkled with sugar; then lay on the fruit the upper half of the +shortcake, with the crust down; add another layer of fruit, with plenty +of sugar, and serve it with sweet milk or cream. This is rather rich, +but a small piece may be given to the children as a treat, at the noon +dinner. + +223. =Apple Custard.=--Pare and core six apples; set them in a pan with a +very little water, and stew them until tender; then put them in a +pudding dish without breaking, fill the centres with sugar, and pour +over them a custard made of a quart of milk, five eggs, four ounces of +sugar, and a very little nutmeg; set the pudding-dish in a baking-pan +half full of water, and bake it about half an hour. Serve it either hot +or cold, at the noon dinner. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +COOKERY FOR INVALIDS. + + +224. =Diet for Invalids.=--There are three alimentary conditions in +illness; the first prevails where the system suffers from the reaction +consequent upon over-taxation, when rest is the first demand; then only +palliative foods meet the calls of nature, those which give repletion to +the sense of hunger, and tide the system over a certain period of +relaxation and recuperation; gelatinous soups, and gruels of arrowroot, +sago, and tapioca, will do very well at this stage. The second +condition, when the body, failing under the pressure of disease, needs +an excess of nutrition, is serious enough to demand the interposition of +the physician--the doctor is the proper person to decide what shall be +eaten; we will offer only a few suggestions concerning refreshing +drinks. At the third point, when the patient is beyond the reach of +danger, when foods are ordered which shall yield the greatest possible +amount of nutrition, the culinary skill of the nurse may be displayed. +It is here that we would give the paragraphs concerning highly nutritive +foods. The reader will please to note that the quantities in this +chapter are calculated for the use of one person. + +225. =Gruels.=--We have already said that in certain physical conditions +the lack of nutrition is what the body requires,--a period of +comparative inaction, combined with repletion;--in such a condition the +following aliments will suffice. + +226. =Arrowroot Gruel.=--Mix one ounce of arrowroot with sufficient cold +water to make a smooth paste; into this pour a gill or more of boiling +water, stirring the mixture until it is quite clear; sweeten it with a +little sugar, and use it at once. + +227. =Arrowroot Jelly.=--Dissolve two teaspoonfuls of Bermuda arrowroot in +just enough cold water to mix it to a smooth liquid paste, stir it into +a quarter of a pint of water boiling upon the fire, with two +tablespoonfuls of white sugar; continue stirring until the mixture +becomes clear, then remove from the fire and stir in one teaspoonful of +lemon-juice, put into a mould wet with cold water until it is cold. If +the patient's condition will permit, cream and sugar may be eaten with +it. + +228. =Arrowroot Wine Jelly.=--Following the above process, make a jelly of +one cup of boiling water, two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot, two +teaspoonfuls of white sugar, one tablespoonful of brandy or three +tablespoonfuls of wine. This jelly is more stimulating than the gruel, +and may meet some especial cases; but, unless used with brandy, for +impaired digestive powers, we do not believe it to be of permanent +value. + +229. =Calf's Foot Jelly.=--Thoroughly clean a calf's foot; put it into an +earthen jar, with half the rind of a fresh lemon, two gills of sweet +milk, and one pint of cold water; close the jar tightly, put it into a +moderate oven, and slowly bake it for three hours; then strain and cool +it, and remove all fat, before using; it is bland and harmless. + +230. =Sago Gruel.=--Soak one ounce of sago, after washing it well in a +pint of tepid water for two hours; then simmer it in the same water for +fifteen minutes, stirring it occasionally; then sweeten and flavor it to +taste, and use at once. + +231. =Sago Milk.=--Prepare the sago as in previous receipt, but boil it in +milk instead of water; and when it has cooked for two hours it is ready +for use. + +232. =Tapioca Jelly.=--Wash one ounce of tapioca, soak it over night in +cold water, and then simmer it with a bit of lemon peel until it is +thoroughly dissolved; sweeten it to taste, and let it cool before using. + +233. =Rice Candle.=--Mix an ounce of ground rice smoothly with a little +cold water, and stir it into a pint of boiling water; boil it for +fifteen minutes, and then sweeten it to taste and flavor it with nutmeg. +Use it warm or cold. + +234. =Isinglass Milk.=--Soak quarter of an ounce of clear shreds of +isinglass in a pint of cold milk for two hours; then reduce it by +boiling to half a pint, and sweeten to taste. Cool it before using. + +235. =Refreshing Drinks.=--In feverish conditions cooling drinks, that is +beverages which are in themselves refrigerant, such as lemonade, and +those which are made from aromatic herbs, are grateful and helpful to +the patient, but pure, distilled or filtered water, is the best for +invalids. Hot drinks lower the temperature of the body by evaporation; +excessively cold drinks check perspiration, and endanger congestion of +some vital part; but water of a moderate temperature is innocuous. Even +in dangerous fevers the burning thirst of the sufferer can safely be +assuaged by the frequent administration of small bits of ice. In cases +of incomplete nutrition, cocoa, chocolate, and other preparations of the +fruit of the cocoa-palm, are invaluable adjuncts; the active principle +of all these is identical, and the chief nutritive element is oil. A +very small quantity of cocoa will sustain life a long time. + +236. =Filtered Water.=--Put a quart of clear water over the fire, and just +bring it to a boil; remove it, and strain it three or four times through +flannel; then cool it in a covered jar or pitcher, and give it to the +patient in small quantities as the condition requires. + +237. =Jelly Water.=--Mix one large teaspoonful of wild-cherry or +blackberry jelly in a glass of cool water; drink moderately, and at +intervals. + +238. =Flaxseed Lemonade.=--Pour one quart of boiling water over four +tablespoonfuls of whole flaxseed, and steep three hours covered. Then +sweeten to taste, and add the juice of two lemons, using a little more +water if the liquid seems too thick to be palatable. This beverage is +very soothing to the irritated membranes in cases of severe cold. + +239. =Barley Water.=--Wash two ounces of pearl barley in cold water until +it does not cloud the water; boil it for five minutes in half a pint of +water; drain that off, put the barley into two quarts of clean water, +and boil it down to one quart. Cool, strain, and use. Pearl barley +largely contains starch and mucilage, and makes an excellent soothing +and refreshing draught in fevers and gastric inflammations. + + +NOURISHING DRINKS.--These are useful when liquid nourishment is better +suited to the invalid's condition than solid food. + +240. =Iceland Moss Chocolate.=--Dissolve one ounce of Iceland moss in one +pint of boiling milk; boil one ounce of chocolate for five minutes in +one pint of boiling water; thoroughly mix the two; and give it to the +invalid night and morning. This is a highly nutritive drink for +convalescents. + +241. =Egg Broth.=--Beat an egg until it is frothy, stir into it a pint of +boiling hot meat broth, free from fat, season it with a saltspoonful of +salt, and eat it hot, with thin slices of dry toast; it may be given to +assist the patient in gaining strength. + +242. =Egg Tea.=--Beat the yolk of an egg in a cup of tea, and let the sick +person drink it warm; the yolk is more readily digested than the white, +and has a better flavor; and the tea is a powerful respiratory excitant, +while it promotes perspiration, and aids the assimilation of more +nourishing foods. + +243. =Very strong Beef Tea.=--(_This tea contains every nutritious element +of the beef._)--Cut two pounds of lean beef into small dice, put it into +a covered jar _without water_, and place it in a moderate oven for four +hours, then strain off the gravy, and dilute it to the desired strength +with boiling water. + +244. =Beef Tea.=--(_A quick preparation for immediate use._)--Chop one +pound of lean beef fine, put it into a bowl, and cover it with cold +water; let it stand for fifteen or twenty minutes, and then pour both +beef and liquid into a sauce-pan, and place them over the fire to boil +from fifteen to thirty minutes as time will permit; then strain off the +liquid, season it slightly, and serve it at once. + +245. =Farina Gruel.=--Stir one ounce of farina into one pint of boiling +water, and boil it down one half, using a farina kettle, or stirring +occasionally to prevent burning, then add half a pint of milk, boil up +once, and sweeten to taste. Use warm. Farina is a preparation of the +inner portion of the finest wheat, freed from bran, and floury dust; it +contains an excess of nitrogenous, or flesh-forming material, readily +absorbs milk or water in the process of cooking, is quickly affected by +the action of the gastric juices; and is far superior as a food to sago, +arrowroot, tapioca, and corn starch. + +246. =Nutritious Foods.=--We have called attention to the fact that the +nurse's most important office is exercised when the invalid begins to +regain health; the task of rebuilding exhausted vitality demands a +thoughtful care that only a tender hearted woman can bestow; and lacking +which the skill of the most enlightened physician is often set at +naught. Happy the woman who can here assist the restoration of the vital +powers; she holds in her own hands a force which wealth cannot buy. To +such ministering angels we dedicate this portion of our little work, in +the hope that countless sick beds will be comforted thereby. + +247. =Bread Jelly.=--Remove the crust from a roll, slice the crumb, and +toast it; put the slices in one quart of water, and set it over the fire +to simmer until it jellies; then strain it through a cloth, sweeten it, +and flavor it with lemon juice; put it into a mould and cool it upon the +ice before using. + +248. =Crackers and Marmalade.=--Toast three soda crackers, dip them for +one minute in boiling water, spread them with a little sweet butter, and +put between them layers of orange marmalade, or any other preserve or +jelly; put plenty upon the top cracker, and set them in the oven for two +or three minutes before serving. This makes a delicate and inviting +lunch for convalescents. + +249. =Chicken Jelly.=--Skin a chicken, removing all fat, and break up the +meat and bones by pounding; cover them with cold water, heat them slowly +in a steam-tight kettle, and simmer them to a pulp; then strain through +a sieve or cloth, season to taste, and return to the fire without the +cover, to simmer until the liquid is reduced one half, skimming off all +fat. Cool to form a jelly. If you have no steam-tight kettle, put a +cloth between the lid and any kettle, and the purpose will be served. + +250. =Chicken Broth.=--Dress a chicken or fowl, cut it in joints, put them +in a chopping bowl, and chop them into small pieces, using flesh, bones, +and skin. To every pound of the chicken thus prepared put one pint of +cold water and one level teaspoonful of salt; if pepper is desired it +should be either enough cayenne to lie on the point of a small pen-knife +blade, or a half saltspoonful of ground _white_ pepper. Put all these +ingredients over the fire in a porcelain lined sauce-pan, bring them +slowly to a boil, remove the pan to the side of the fire, where it will +simmer slowly, the heat striking it on one side; simmer it in this way +for two hours, and then strain it through a napkin, set it to cool; if +any fat rises to the surface in cooling remove it entirely. Eat it +either cold, say half a teacupful when a little nourishment is required; +or warm a pint, and eat it with graham crackers at meal time. + +251. =Beefsteak Juice.=--Quickly broil a juicy steak, and after laying it +on a hot platter, cut and press it to extract all the juice; season this +with a very little salt, and pour it over a slice of delicately browned +toast; serve it at once. + +252. =Salmon Steak.=--Choose a slice of salmon nearly an inch thick, +remove the scales, wipe with a dry cloth, roll it first in cracker dust, +then dip it very lightly in melted butter, and season with a dust of +white pepper and a pinch of salt; then roll it again in cracker dust, +and put it over a clear fire on a greased gridiron, to broil slowly, +taking care that it does not burn before the flakes separate; serve it +with some fresh watercresses and plain boiled potatoes. (Any +_red-blooded_ fish may be used in the same way.) + +253. =Broiled Oysters.=--Dry some large oysters on a napkin; roll them in +cracker dust, dip them in melted butter as for salmon steaks, again in +cracker dust, dust over them a very little salt and white pepper, or +cayenne, and broil them on a buttered wire gridiron, over a clear fire. +They will be done as soon as they are light brown. They make a very +delicate and digestible meal. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +BREAD. + + +The preparation of wheat and other grains, in the form of bread, is one +of the most important of all culinary operations, and to many persons +one of the most difficult. It is impossible to set exact rules as to the +quantity of flour or liquid to be used, for the quality of the flour +varies as much as that of the grain from which it is made; and some +varieties, excessive in gluten, will absorb nearly one-third more liquid +than others, and produce correspondingly more bread. For this reason in +buying flour we must choose that which contains the most gluten; this +kind will remain in a firm, compact mass when pressed in the hand, and +will retain all the lines and marks of the skin; or if mixed with water +it will take up a great deal in proportion to its bulk, and will form a +tough, elastic dough. Gluten in flour corresponds with the nitrates or +flesh-formers in flesh, and abounds in hard winter wheat. The flour +containing much of it is never extremely white. + +The object of making bread, that is of mixing water with the flour and +subsequently exposing the dough to intense heat, is to expand and +rupture the cells of the grain so as to expose the greatest possible +surface to the action of the digestive fluids; this is accomplished in +several ways; by the formation of air cells through the medium of +acetous fermentation, as in yeast bread; by the mechanical introduction +of carbonic acid gas, as in aerated bread; by the mixture with the flour +of a gas-generating compound, which needs only the contact of moisture +to put it in active operation; and by the beating into the dough of +atmospheric air. No organic change in the elements of the flour is +necessary, like that produced by the partial decomposition of some of +its properties, in bread raised with yeast; so long as proper surface is +obtained for the action of the gastric juices, the purpose of raising is +accomplished. Bread raised without fermentation can be made from the +following receipt, and there is no question of its healthfulness. + +254. =Aerated Homemade Bread.=--Mix flour and water together to the +consistency of a thick batter; then beat it until fine bubbles of air +thoroughly permeate it; for small biscuit, pour it into patty pans, and +bake in a good brisk oven; for bread in loaves more flour is thoroughly +kneaded in with the hands, until the dough is full of air-bubbles, and +then baked at once, without being allowed to stand. + +When bread is to be raised by the acetous fermentation of yeast, the +sponge should be maintained at a temperature of 89 deg. Fahr. until it is +sufficiently light, and the baking should be accomplished at a heat of +over 320 deg. When yeast is too bitter from the excess of hops, mix plenty +of water with it, and let it stand for some hours; then throw the water +off, and use the settlings. When yeast has soured it may be restored by +adding to it a little carbonate of soda or ammonia. When dough has +soured, the acidity can be corrected by the use of a little carbonate of +soda or ammonia. If the sponge of "raised bread" be allowed to overwork +itself it will sour from excessive fermentation, and if the temperature +be permitted to fall, and the dough to cool, it will be heavy. Thorough +kneading renders yeast-bread white and fine, but is unnecessary in bread +made with baking-powder. Great care should be taken in the preparation +of yeast for leavened bread, as the chemical decomposition inseparable +from its use is largely increased by any impurity or undue fermentation. +Experience and judgment are necessary to the uniform production of good +bread; and those are gained only by repeated trials. We subjoin one of +the best receipts which we have been able to procure, for making yeast. + +255. =Homebrewed Yeast.=--Boil two ounces of the best hops in four quarts +of water for half an hour, strain off the liquor and let it cool till +luke-warm, and then add half a pound of brown sugar and two heaping +tablespoonfuls of salt; use a little of this liquor to beat up one pound +of the best flour, and gradually mix in all of it with the flour; let it +stand four days to ferment in a warm place near the fire, stirring it +frequently. On the third day boil and mash three pounds of potatoes, and +stir them into it. On the fourth day strain and bottle it; it will keep +good for months. + +256. =Homemade Bread.=--Put seven pounds of flour into a deep pan, and +make a hollow in the centre; into this put one quart of luke-warm water, +one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, and half a gill of +yeast; have ready three pints more of warm water, and use as much of it +as is necessary to make a rather soft dough, mixing and kneading it well +with both hands. When it is smooth and shining strew a little flour upon +it, lay a large towel over it folded, and set it in a warm place by the +fire for four or five hours to rise; then knead it again for fifteen +minutes, cover it with the towel, and set it to rise once more; then +divide it into two or four loaves, and bake it in a quick oven. This +quantity of material will make eight pounds of bread, and will require +one hour's baking to two pounds of dough. In cold weather, the dough +should be mixed in a warm room, and not allowed to cool while rising; if +it does not rise well, set the pan containing it over a large vessel of +boiling water; it is best to mix the bread at night, and let it rise +till morning, in a warm and even temperature. + +257. =Milk Bread.=--Take one quart of milk, heat one-third of it, and +scald with it half a pint of flour; if the milk is skimmed, use a small +piece of butter; when the batter is cool, add the rest of the milk, one +cup of hop yeast, half a tablespoonful of salt, and flour enough to make +it quite stiff; knead the dough until it is fine and smooth, and raise +it over night. This quantity makes three small loaves. + +258. =Rice Bread.=--Simmer one pound of rice in three quarts of water +until the rice is soft, and the water evaporated or absorbed; let it +cool until it is only luke-warm; mix into it nearly four pounds of +flour, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of yeast; knead +it until it is smooth and shining, let it rise once before the fire, +make it up into loaves with the little flour reserved from the four +pounds, and bake it thoroughly. + +259. =Potato Bread.=--Take good, mealy boiled potatoes, in the proportion +of one-third of the quantity of flour you propose to use, pass them +through a coarse sieve into the flour, using a wooden spoon and adding +enough cold water to enable you to pass them through readily; use the +proper quantity of yeast, salt, and water, and make up the bread in the +usual way. A saving of at least twenty per cent is thus gained. + +260. =Pulled Bread.=--Take from the oven an ordinary loaf of bread when it +is about _half baked_, and with the fingers, _while it is yet hot_, pull +it apart in egg-sized pieces of irregular shape: throw them upon tins, +and bake them in a slow oven to a rich brown color. This bread is +excellent to eat with cheese or wine. + +Where bread is made with baking powder the following rules should be +closely observed: If any shortening be used, it should be rubbed into +the flour before it is wet; _cold_ water or sweet milk should always be +used to wet it, and the dough should be kneaded immediately, and only +long enough to thoroughly mix it and form it into the desired shape; it +should then be placed in a well-heated oven and baked quickly--otherwise +the carbonic acid gas will escape before the expanded cells are fixed in +the bread, and thus the lightness of the loaf will be impaired. + +As a very large margin of profit is indulged in by the manufacturers of +baking powders, we subjoin a good formula for making the article at home +at a considerable saving. + +261. =Baking Powder.=--Mix thoroughly by powdering and sifting together +several times the following ingredients; four ounces of tartaric acid, +and six ounces each of bi-carbonate of soda, and starch. Keep the +mixture in an air-tight can. + +The following receipts will be found useful and easy: + +262. =Loaf Bread.=--Sift together two or three times one pound of flour, +three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one saltspoonful of salt, and one +teaspoonful of fine sugar; mix with enough cold sweet milk to make the +dough of the consistency of biscuit; or, if you have no milk, use cold +water. Work the dough only long enough to incorporate the flour well +with the milk or water; put it into a baking-pan buttered and slightly +warmed, and set it immediately into a hot oven; after about five minutes +cover it with paper so that the crust may not form so quickly as to +prevent rising; bake about three-quarters of an hour. This bread is +sweet and wholesome, and may be eaten by some persons whose digestion is +imperfect, with greater safety than yeast-fermented bread. + +263. =Breakfast Rolls.=--Mix well by sifting, one pound of flour, three +teaspoonfuls of baking powder, half a teaspoonful of salt, and one +heaping teaspoonful of pulverized or fine sugar; into a small portion of +the above rub two ounces of lard, fine and smooth; mix with the rest of +the flour, and quickly wet it up with enough cold milk to enable you to +roll it out about half an inch thick; cut out the dough with a tin shape +or with a sharp knife, in the form of diamonds, lightly wet the top with +water, and double them half over. Put them upon a tin, buttered and +warmed, and bake them in a hot oven. + +264. =Tea Biscuit.=--Mix as above, using the same proportions, and cutting +out with a round biscuit-cutter; when they are baked, wash them over +with cold milk, and return them to the oven for a moment to dry. + +265. =Finger Biscuit.=--Mix as above, cut out with a sharp knife in strips +three inches long, one inch wide, and one-quarter of an inch thick; lay +them upon a buttered tin so that they will not touch, brush them over +with an egg beaten up with one tablespoonful of milk, and bake them in a +hot oven. + +266. =Cream Breakfast Rolls.=--Mix as above, substituting cream for the +milk in moistening the dough; cut them out with an oval cutter, two +inches long and one and a half inches wide; brush the tops with cream, +and pull them slightly lengthwise; then fold them together, leaving a +slight projection of the under side; put them on a buttered tin, brush +the tops with cream, and bake them in a hot oven. + +267. =Breakfast Twist.=--Mix as for breakfast rolls, cut in strips three +inches long and half an inch thick; roll each one out thin at the ends, +but leave the centre of the original thickness; place three strips side +by side, braid them together, and pinch the ends to hold them; when the +twists are all made out, lay them upon a buttered tin, brush them over +with milk, and bake them in a hot oven. A little fine sugar dusted over +the tops glazes them and improves their flavor. + +Hot rolls and biscuits should be served well covered with a napkin. + +268. =How to freshen stale Bread.=--A loaf of stale bread placed in a +close tin vessel, and steamed for half an hour will be completely +freshened. + +269. =Toast.=--But few persons know how to prepare toast properly. It +should be made with the aim of evaporating from the bread all the +superfluous water, and transforming its tough and moist substance into +digestible food: for this reason the slices should be exposed gradually +to heat of a gentle fire, first upon one side and then upon the other, +for one minute, and after that they may be toasted golden-brown; at this +stage it has become pure wheat farina, and is not liable to produce +acetous fermentation in the stomach; besides, it will now absorb the +butter thoroughly, and both substances will be in condition to be freely +subjected to the action of gastric juice, and consequently will be +digested with ease. Dry toast should be sent to the table the instant it +is made. Buttered toast should be set into the oven for about five +minutes to render it crisp. + + + + +INDEX. + + +_A la mode_ beef, 81 + +Anchovies, 37 + +Apple Cake, 122 + " Custard, 123 + +Arrowroot Jelly, 126 + +Asparagus with melted butter, 92 + + +Bacon Roly-poly, 113 + +Baking Powder, 139 + +Barley Broth with Vegetables, 107 + +Barley Water, 128 + +Batter for Frying, 47 + +Bay leaves, 20 + +Beans, fried, 98 + +Beef, to choose, 16 + +Beefsteak for children, 120 + " juice, 132 + " to broil, 43 + +Beef, Roast, with Yorkshire Pudding, 69 + " Portuguese, 43 + +Beets, baked, 93 + +Biscuit, 140 + +Blackberry Jam, 119 + +Blackfish, baked, 32 + +Birds, to choose, 18 + +Boiled Dishes, 78 + +Bouquet of Sweet Herbs, 20 + +Brains, fried, with Tomato Sauce, 50 + +Bread, 134 + " Aerated, Homemade, 135 + " and Butter, English, 39 + " Homemade, 136 + " how to freshen stale, 141 + " Loaf, 139 + " Milk, 136 + " Potato, 138 + " Pulled, 138 + " Rice, 136 + +Breakfast Rolls and Twist, 139, 140 + +Brussels Sprouts, 93 + +Bubble and Squeak, 44 + +Butter, Epicurean, 40 + " _Maitre d'Hotel_, 33 + + +Cabbage, Stuffed, 94 + +Calf's Foot Jelly, 126 + " Liver, larded, 51 + +Caramel, 24 + +Carrot Stew, 99 + +Cauliflower, baked, 94 + +Cheese Pudding, 103 + " Straws, 39 + +Chicken, broiled for children, 120 + " Broth, 131 + " Fricassee, 55 + " fried Spanish style, 55 + " Jelly, 131 + " minced with Macaroni, 56 + " Roast, 75 + +Children's Chapter, The, 116 + +Chops, broiled, 119 + +Chowder, St. James, 34 + +Clams, to choose, 19 + +Cock-a-leeky, 111 + +Cod, boiled with Oyster Sauce, 31 + +_Conde_ Crusts, 30 + +Consomme, 25 + +Cookies, 122 + +Crabs, to choose, 19 + +Crackers and Marmalade, 131 + +Croutons, 43 + +Currants, ripe, 119 + + +Diet for Brain Workers, 15 + " for children, 116 + " for Invalids, 125 + " for Rapid Workers, 15 + " for Steady Workers, 15 + +Drinks, nourishing, 129 + " refreshing, 127 + +Duck, Roast, with Watercresses, 75 + " Salmi of, 57 + " to choose, 17 + + +Eggs, _au gratin_, 59 + " boiled for children, 120 + " Broth, 129 + " poached, 25 + " stuffed, 59 + " Tea, 129 + +Entrees, 51 + + +Farina, 130 + " Gruel, 130 + " with Fruit, 122 + +Fillet of Sole, 34 + +Fish, _a la bonne eau_, 31 + " _a l'eau de sel_, 31 + " _a la Hollandaise_, 31 + " _au court bouillon_, 31 + " _au bleu_, 31 + " Cakes, Club House, 35 + " Chowder, 34 + " Pudding, 104 + " to choose, 19 + " Warmed up, 36 + +Flaxseed Lemonade, 128 + +Flour, to choose, 134 + +Foods, Carbonaceous, 15 + " Farinaceous, 101 + " Flesh-forming, 15 + " for Children, 118 + " Heat, 51 + " Nitrogenous, 15 + " Nutritious, 130 + +Forcemeat for Poultry, 74 + +Fowls, boiled with Oyster Sauce, 82 + " Grilled, 56 + " to choose, 17 + +Fruit for Children, 117 + " to choose, 19 + + +Gammon Dumpling, 112 + +Geese, to choose, 17 + +Gingerbread, 123 + +Glaze, 69 + +Golden Buck, 38 + +Goose, Roast, with Onion Sauce, 76 + +Gravy for Roast Meat, 70 + +Green Peas, 92 + +Gruels, 125 + + +Ham and Beans, 98 + +Ham, boiled with Madeira Sauce 80 + +Hare, civet of, 57 + " Jugged, 58 + " to choose, 18 + +Haslet Ragout, 111 + +Herbs, sweet, 19 + +Herrings, pickled, 37 + + +Iceland Moss Chocolate, 129 + +Isinglass Milk, 127 + +Italian Cheese, 111 + + +Jelly Water, 128 + +Jelly, Bread, 131 + + +Kidneys, broiled, 49 + " stewed, 44 + +Kolcannon, 99 + +Kromeskys with Spanish Sauce, 47 + + +Lamb, epigramme of, 45 + +Larding, 51 + +Lentils, 101 + " boiled, 104 + " fried, 105 + " stewed, 105 + +Lettuce stuffed, 99 + +Liver Rolls, 49 + +Lobsters, to choose, 19 + + +Macaroni, 63 + " Milanaise style, 65 + " with Bechamel Sauce, 64 + " with Cheese, 56 + " with Tomato Sauce, 66 + " Timbale of, 66 + +Mackerel, pickled, 106 + +_Marinade_ for beef, 81 + +Marketing, 15 + +_Mayonnaise_, 89 + +Mock Crab, 39 + +Mushrooms, baked, 99 + " Pudding, 95 + +Mussels, to choose, 19 + +Mutton haricot, 45 + " Leg of, 79 + " Ragout, 114 + " Stew, 45 + " three dishes from neck of. 108 + " to choose, 16 + + +Norfolk Dumplings, 105 + + +Oatmeal Porridge, 103 + +Onions, glazed, 95 + " Saratoga, 98 + +Omelettes, how to make, 60 + " Oriental style, 63 + " Plain, 60 + " Spanish style, 62 + " with Cheese, 61 + " with Ham, 62 + " with Herbs, 61 + " with Mushrooms, 62 + " with Oysters, 62 + " with Preserves, 63 + " with Tongue, 61 + +Oysters, broiled, 132 + " scalloped, 37 + " to choose, 19 + +Ox-heart, baked, 13 + + +Parmesan Cheese, 64 + +Parsnips, stewed, 100 + +Partridge, roast, 77 + " to choose, 18 + +Peas and Bacon, 114 + +Peas-Pudding, 102 + +Pheasants, to choose, 18 + +Pigeons, broiled, 57 + " to choose, 17 + +Pigs' Feet, broiled, 54 + " fried, 109 + +Pig's Tongue and Brains, 110 + +Polenta, 104 + +Pork Chops with Curry, 53 + " Cutlets, broiled, 53 + " neck of, 109 + " Pie, English, 54 + " Roast, with Apple Sauce, 72 + " to choose, 16 + +Poultry, to choose, 16 + +Potatoes, baked, 121 + " Bermuda, 97 + " boiled, 95 + " boiled for children, 121 + " boiled in jackets, 97 + " Duchesse, 75 + " Lyonnaise, 96 + " Parisian, 42 + " Pudding, 106 + " new, 97 + " Saratoga, 97 + " snow, 97 + " stuffed, 96 + +Pot-au-feu, 114 + + +Quail, to choose, 18 + + +Red Cabbage, 94 + +Red Herrings with Potatoes, 103 + +Relishes, 37 + +Rice, boiled, 54 + " Caudle, 127 + +Roasts, 68 + " to froth, 69 + " to glaze, 69 + " to test, 69 + +Rump Steak, 43 + + +Sago Gruel, 127 + " Milk, 127 + +Salad, Asparagus, 85 + " Cauliflower, 85 + " Dandelion, 85 + " Green Pea, 86 + " Mint, 85 + " Nasturtium, 86 + " Oil, 84 + " Orange, 86 + " Shad-roe, 85 + " Spinach, 86 + " Spring, 84 + " Tomato, 86 + " Watercress, 85 + +Salad Sauce, Anchovy, 88 + " Cream, 87 + " Egg, 88 + " English, 87 + " Green Remolade, 88 + " Hot, 88 + " Mayonnaise, 88 + " Oil, 88 + " Piquante, 87 + " Ravigote, 88 + " Remolade, 87 + " Romaine, 89 + +Salmon Steak, 132 + +Salt Cod with Parsnips, 105 + +Sardines, 37 + " Sandwiches, 36 + +Sauce, Apple, 73 + " _Bechamel_, 65 + " Bread, 77 + " Caper, 74 + " Cranberry, 79 + " Dutch, 36 + " Madeira, 80 + " Mint, cold, 72 + " Mint, hot, 72 + " Onion, 76 + " Oyster, 82 + " Piquante, 46 + " Robert, 53 + " Romaine, 76 + " Spanish, 46 + " Tomato, 59, 66 + " Vanilla Cream, 67 + " White, with Eggs, 52 + " White, without Eggs, 56 + +Scallops, to choose, 19 + +Scotch Broth with Meat, 27 + " without Meat, 26 + +Scotch Crowdie, 102 + +Shad, broiled, 33 + +Sheeps' Kidneys, broiled, 49 + " Tongues with Spinach, 48 + +Side Dishes, 41 + +Smelts, fried, 33 + +Sole, fillet of, 34 + +Soup, clear, 25 + " to clarify, 23 + " to flavor, thicken, and color 24 + " Lentil, 29 + " Macaroni, 26 + " Pea, 29 + " Potato, 102 + " Rice and Tomato, 26 + " Sorrel, 28 + " Spinach, 27 + " Vermicelli, 26 + +Spaghetti, 64 + +Spinach, boiled, 49 + +Stuffing for meat, 53 + " Veal, 71 + " Sage and Onion, 76 + +Strawberry Shortcake, 123 + +String Beans, 92 + + +Tapioca Jelly, 127 + +Toad-in-the-hole, 112 + +Toast, 141 + +Tomatoes, broiled, 99 + " stuffed, 98 + +Tripe and Onions, 113 + +Tripe, roasted, 110 + +Turkey, Roast, with Cranberry Sauce, 73 + " to choose, 73 + +Turnips, baked, 95 + + +Veal, Blanquette of, 51 + " Roast Loin of, 71 + " Stuffed, 52 + " to choose, 16 + +Vegetables, 91 + " to choose, 19 + " to boil, 91 + +Venison, to choose, 18 + + +Water, filtered, 128 + +Welsh Rarebit, 38 + +Wild Duck, Roast, 77 + " to choose, 18 + +Wild Goose, to choose, 18 + +Woodcock, to choose, 18 + + +Yeast Homebrewed, 137 + " how to restore bitter, 136 + " how to restore sour, 136 + +Yorkshire Pudding, 70 + + + + ++--------------------------------------------------------+ +|Standardized punctuation | +|Standardized hyphenations | +|Page 76: Changed pototoes to potatoes | +|Page 144: Changed scollops to scallops | +|Index: Changed Pease Pudding to Peas-Pudding | +|Index: Numbers refer to page numbers, not recipe numbers| ++--------------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cooking Manual of Practical +Directions for Economical Every-Day Cookery, by Juliet Corson + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT 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