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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/30983-h.zip b/30983-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f84b551 --- /dev/null +++ b/30983-h.zip diff --git a/30983-h/30983-h.htm b/30983-h/30983-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0f04f03 --- /dev/null +++ b/30983-h/30983-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3017 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<HTML> +<HEAD> + +<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> + +<TITLE> +The Project Gutenberg E-text of Knots, Bends, Splices by J. Netherclift Jutsum +</TITLE> + +<STYLE TYPE="text/css"> +BODY { color: Black; + background: White; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; + text-align: justify } + +P {text-indent: 4% } + +P.noindent {text-indent: 0% } + +P.poem {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-size: small } + +P.transnote {font-size: small ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 10% ; + margin-right: 10% } + +P.finis { font-size: larger ; + text-align: center ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 0% ; + margin-right: 0% } + +H3.h3left { margin-left: 0%; + margin-right: 1%; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: left ; + clear: left ; + text-align: center } + +H3.h3right { margin-left: 1%; + margin-right: 0 ; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: right ; + clear: right ; + text-align: center } + +H3.h3center { margin-left: 0; + margin-right: 0 ; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: none ; + clear: both ; + text-align: center } + +H4.h4left { margin-left: 0%; + margin-right: 1%; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: left ; + clear: left ; + text-align: center } + +H4.h4right { margin-left: 1%; + margin-right: 0 ; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: right ; + clear: right ; + text-align: center } + +H4.h4center { margin-left: 0; + margin-right: 0 ; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: none ; + clear: both ; + text-align: center } + +H5.h5left { margin-left: 0%; + margin-right: 1%; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: left ; + clear: left ; + text-align: center } + +H5.h5right { margin-left: 1%; + margin-right: 0 ; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: right ; + clear: right ; + text-align: center } + +H5.h5center { margin-left: 0; + margin-right: 0 ; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: none ; + clear: both ; + text-align: center } + +IMG.imgcenter { margin-left: auto; + margin-bottom: 0; + margin-top: 1%; + margin-right: auto; } + +.pagenum { position: absolute; + left: 1%; + font-size: 95%; + text-align: left; + text-indent: 0; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; } + +</STYLE> + +</HEAD> + +<BODY> + + +<pre> + +Project Gutenberg's Knots, Bends, Splices, by J. Netherclift Jutsum + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Knots, Bends, Splices + With tables of strengths of ropes, etc. and wire rigging + +Author: J. Netherclift Jutsum + +Release Date: January 16, 2010 [EBook #30983] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KNOTS, BENDS, SPLICES *** + + + + +Produced by Al Haines + + + + + +</pre> + + +<BR><BR> + +<A NAME="img-cover"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-cover.jpg" ALT="Cover" BORDER="0" WIDTH="417" HEIGHT="653"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H1 ALIGN="center"> +KNOTS, +<BR> +BENDS, SPLICES, +</H1> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +WITH TABLES OF STRENGTHS OF ROPES, ETC., +<BR> +AND WIRE RIGGING. +</H3> + +<BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +BY CAPTAIN JUTSUM, CARDIFF. +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +<I>Revised and Enlarged.</I> +</H4> + +<BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +[COPYRIGHT. +</H4> + +<BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +GLASGOW: +<BR> +The Nautical Press, +<BR> +JAMES BROWN & SON, +<BR> +NAUTICAL AND ENGINEERING PUBLISHERS. +<BR><BR> +1914 +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +INTRODUCTION. +</H3> + +<P> +The object of this little work is to present in a compact form and +systematic order a complete list of all the most useful and important +workings connected with Cordage, and a lucid explanation of their +various formations. +</P> + +<P> +The explanations of some of the elementary knots have been gone into +with what a practical seaman of even short experience may consider +almost unnecessary minuteness, but the aim throughout has been to +render the work of value to those who approach the subject for the +first time. +</P> + +<P> +To attain this end, diagrams are introduced at every stage, and if +followed closely step by step, in conjunction with the text referring +to them, the learner should have no difficulty in following their +construction. +</P> + +<P> +At the same time he must remember that proficiency in what is really +skilled workmanship, amounting almost to an art, can only be gained by +much practice and perseverance, and should gladly avail himself of any +advice or help he may be able to obtain from his more experienced +ship-mates. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +J. NETHERCLIFT JUTSUM. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="Pv"></A>v}</SPAN> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +CONTENTS. +</H2> + +<PRE> + PAGE + +The Construction of Ropes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P1">1</A> + +Common Whipping, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P3">3</A> + +Knots, etc., formed by a Single Rope's-end-- + Overhand Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P5">5</A> + Figure of 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P5">5</A> + Simple Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P5">5</A> + Running or Inside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P6">6</A> + Outside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P7">7</A> + Buntline Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P7">7</A> + Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P8">8</A> + Running Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P9">9</A> + Half Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P10">10</A> + Round Turn and Two Half Hitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P11">11</A> + Clove Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P12">12</A> + Rolling Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P13">13</A> + Timber Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P14">14</A> + Fisherman's Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P15">15</A> + Topsail Halliard Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P16">16</A> + Stun'sail Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P17">17</A> + Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P17">17</A> + Midshipman's Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P18">18</A> + Double Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P19">19</A> + +Knots, etc., made on the Bight of a Rope-- + A Bowline on the Bight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P20">20</A> + Marlinespike Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P21">21</A> + Sheepshank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P22">22</A> + Catspaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P23">22</A> + +Knots, Bends, etc., for Uniting Ropes-- + Reef Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P24">24</A> + Common or Sheet Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P24">24</A> + Single Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P26">26</A> + Double Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P27">27</A> + Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P27">27</A> + +Knots formed on Ropes by their own Strands-- + Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P30">30-33</A> + Double Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P33">33</A> + Crown Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P33">33</A> + Manrope Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P34">34</A> + Stopper Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P34">34</A> + Single Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P35">35</A> + Double Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P36">36</A> + Another form of Diamond Knot (Single) . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P38">38</A> + Double Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P39">39</A> + Shroud Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P40">40</A> + Spritsail Sheet Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P41">41</A> + +Splices-- + Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P43">43</A> + Short Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P44">44</A> + Cut Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P45">45</A> + Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P45">45</A> + Grommet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P46">46</A> + +Wire Splicing-- + Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P47">47</A> + Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P48">48</A> + +Purchases-- + Single Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P49">49</A> + Double Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P49">49</A> + Runner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P50">50</A> + Gun Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P50">50</A> + Handy Billy or Jigger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P51">51</A> + Watch or Luff Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P51">51</A> + Double Luff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P52">52</A> + Three-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P52">52</A> + Four-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P53">53</A> + Single Spanish Burton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P53">53</A> + Double Spanish Burton (two forms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P54">54</A> + Spanish Windlass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P55">55</A> + +Miscellaneous Odds and Ends-- + Palm and Needle Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P56">56</A> + West Country Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P56">56</A> + American Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P57">57</A> + To Point a Rope End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P57">57</A> + Turk's Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P58">58-60</A> + Mousing a Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P60">60</A> + Securing Lead Line to Lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P61">61</A> + Fitting a Flag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P61">61</A> + Cringles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P61">61-64</A> + Lengthening the Rope of a Sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P64">64</A> + Jury Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P65">65-66</A> + Sling for a Barrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P67">67-68</A> + Chain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P68">68-69</A> + Double Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P69">69-70</A> + Twist or Plain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P71">71</A> + +Wire Rope Splicing, etc.-- + How to Handle Wire Rope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P72">72</A> + Set of Wire Rope Splicing Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P74">74</A> + Directions for Splicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P76">76-78</A> + Splicing Thimbles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P78">78-82</A> + +Tables showing the Respective Weights and Strengths of Various + Cordage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <A HREF="#P83">83-86</A> +</PRE> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap01"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P1"></A>1}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +THE CONSTRUCTION OF ROPES. +</H3> + +<P> +Rope, the term being used in its widest construction, is made from +almost every pliable material, but is generally composed of hemp, +manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron, or copper wire. +</P> + +<P> +For the present we will confine ourselves to those having their origin +in the vegetable kingdom, and more especially to those made from hemp +and manila. +</P> + +<P> +These are divided into three classes:— +</P> + +<P> +(1). <B>A Hawser-laid Rope</B>, which is composed of three strands laid up +generally right-handed (that is, the direction taken by the strands in +forming the rope runs always from left to right) (Fig. 1.) +</P> + +<P> +(2). <B>A Shroud-laid Rope</B>, also laid up right-handed, but consisting +of four strands (Fig. 2) with a heart in the centre. +</P> + +<P> +(3). <B>A Cable-laid Rope</B>, which is composed of three right-handed +hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed, so that it may be said +to consist of nine strands (Fig. 3), or it may be formed by three +left-handed ropes laid up right-handed (Fig. 4). +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P2"></A>2}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig001"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig001.jpg" ALT="Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3." BORDER="0" WIDTH="511" HEIGHT="327"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +In Fig. 4 we show a more complete analysis of its construction (in this +case a right-handed cable-laid rope). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig004"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig004.jpg" ALT="Fig. 4." BORDER="0" WIDTH="349" HEIGHT="340"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P3"></A>3}</SPAN> + +<P> +First we see the cable <I>e</I> formed by the three ropes <I>d</I>, <I>f</I>, and <I>g</I>; +whilst the rope <I>g</I> is dissected to show the strands forming it, <I>c</I>, +<I>h</I>, <I>j</I>; and in the strand <I>h</I> we see <I>b</I>, the yarn composing the +strand, and <I>a</I> a yarn teased out to show the original fibre. +</P> + +<P> +The end of a rope must always be secured in some way, or it is evident +from its construction that it will on the slightest usage become frayed +out. The commonest method is by placing on an ordinary whipping, which +is done as follows:—First lay the end of a length of twine along the +end of the rope, and then commencing at the part furthest from the +rope's end take a half dozen or more turns around both the rope and +twine end (Fig. 5). Then lay the twine in the form of a loop along the +rope and over the turns already taken, as in Fig. 6. To finish off +take that portion of the loop designated <I>a</I>, and continue taking turns +tightly round the rope and part <I>b</I> of the twine until the loop is +nearly all used up; pull through the remainder snugly by part <I>c</I>, and +cut off short when, no end of twine will be visible as in Fig. 7. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig005"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig005.jpg" ALT="Fig. 5. Fig. 6. Fig. 7." BORDER="0" WIDTH="491" HEIGHT="242"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P4"></A>4}</SPAN> + +<P> +Considering that we now have at our disposal a small sized rope with +the end whipped, we will at once proceed to the formation of the most +elementary knots and hitches, namely, those formed by a single rope's +end. +</P> + +<P> +Fig. 8 shows a common loop, by which most of the following knots, etc., +are commenced. Note exactly how the loop lies, and let us letter its +parts clearly for future reference. The part of rope extending from 1 +to 2 is known as the standing part which we will call <I>a</I>, the portion +included between 2 and 3 following round the loop by <I>y</I> and <I>z</I> is +termed the bight which we will call <I>b</I>, and from 3 to 4 is known as +the end <I>e</I>. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig008"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig008.jpg" ALT="Fig. 8." BORDER="0" WIDTH="182" HEIGHT="343"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Then starting in each case from the position shown in Fig. 8 we make +the following knots, etc:— +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P5"></A>5}</SPAN> + +<P> +(1). <B>An Overhand Knot</B>.—Place <I>e</I> up through bight <I>b</I>, and draw +taut (Fig. 9). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig009"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig009.jpg" ALT="Fig. 9." BORDER="0" WIDTH="119" HEIGHT="267"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(2). <B>A Figure of Eight Knot</B>.—Back <I>e</I> round behind <I>a</I>, bring over +part <I>z</I> and dip down through bight <I>b</I> and haul taut (Fig. 10). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig010"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig010.jpg" ALT="Fig. 10." BORDER="0" WIDTH="227" HEIGHT="231"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(3). <B>A Simple Clinch</B> is formed by closing up the initial loop to +form a small ring and securing by a seizing—a small lashing at <I>d</I> +(Fig. 11). +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P6"></A>6}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig011"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig011.jpg" ALT="Fig. 11" BORDER="0" WIDTH="130" HEIGHT="245"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +One of the preceding knots is generally put in the end of running gear +to prevent it from coming unrove from the fair-leads or blocks. +</P> + +<P> +(4). <B>A Running or Inside Clinch</B> is the foregoing, formed by the end +of a rope on its own standing part, and is often used for securing +buntlines to the foot of a sail (Fig. 12). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig012"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig012.jpg" ALT="Fig. 12." BORDER="0" WIDTH="141" HEIGHT="311"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P7"></A>7}</SPAN> + +<P> +(5.) <B>An Outside Clinch</B>, as may be inferred from its name, is formed +in a similar manner, but the end <I>c</I> is brought round on top, that is, +away from the bight (Fig. 13). It is used in cases where it is +essential that the end should not be in a position to jam, but always +ready for slipping at a moment's notice, as in securing cable ends, etc. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig013"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig013.jpg" ALT="Fig. 13." BORDER="0" WIDTH="147" HEIGHT="255"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(6). <B>A Buntline Hitch</B> (an alternative method of securing buntlines +to a sail) is commenced as in making an outside clinch, but instead of +putting on a seizing, take a longer end <I>c</I>, pass it over <I>y</I>, bring up +through bight <I>b</I>, and tuck the end again over part <I>y</I> and through the +last loop formed, so that the end <I>c</I> lies close to the commencement of +part <I>z</I> (Fig. 14). +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P8"></A>8}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig014"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig014.jpg" ALT="Fig. 14." BORDER="0" WIDTH="161" HEIGHT="298"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(7). <B>A Bowline</B>.—Reverting to our original loop (Fig. 8), first +taking part <I>z</I> in the right hand with <I>y</I> in the left, throw a loop +over <I>c</I>, the end, as in Fig. 15. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig015"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig015.jpg" ALT="Fig. 15." BORDER="0" WIDTH="198" HEIGHT="359"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P9"></A>9}</SPAN> + +<P> +Secondly, lead <I>c</I> round behind part <I>a</I> and pass it down through the +last made loop, as indicated by the dotted line, and haul taut as in +Fig. 16. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig016"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig016.jpg" ALT="Fig. 16." BORDER="0" WIDTH="176" HEIGHT="437"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(8). <B>A Running Bowline</B>.—Form a loop with a long end <I>c</I> lying +underneath the standing part <I>a</I> (Fig. 17). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig017"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig017.jpg" ALT="Fig. 17." BORDER="0" WIDTH="331" HEIGHT="256"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P10"></A>10}</SPAN> + +<P> +Now bring end <I>c</I> over part <I>y</I> and with it form the bowline knot on +part <I>z</I> just as in the previous case we formed it on its own part, +when it will appear as in Fig. 18. It is used whenever a running noose +is required. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig018"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig018.jpg" ALT="Fig. 18." BORDER="0" WIDTH="193" HEIGHT="325"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(9). The formation of a half hitch (Fig. 19), and two half hitches +(Fig. 20) is sufficiently indicated by those diagrams. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig019"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig019.jpg" ALT="Fig. 19." BORDER="0" WIDTH="200" HEIGHT="230"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P11"></A>11}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig020"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig020.jpg" ALT="Fig. 20." BORDER="0" WIDTH="158" HEIGHT="416"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The commonest method of making a rope's end fast to a bollard, etc., is +by taking a round turn and two half hitches, and stopping the end back +for further security (Fig. 21). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig021"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig021.jpg" ALT="Fig. 21." BORDER="0" WIDTH="312" HEIGHT="205"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P12"></A>12}</SPAN> + +<P> +(10). <B>A Clove Hitch</B> is really a jamming form of two half hitches, +and is principally used when a small rope has to be secured to a larger +one and the end still kept free to pass along for further purposes, as +in securing ratlines to the shrouds. Its formation is shown in three +successive stages (Figs. 22, 23, 24). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig022"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig022.jpg" ALT="Fig. 22. Fig. 23. Fig. 24." BORDER="0" WIDTH="416" HEIGHT="576"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P13"></A>13}</SPAN> + +<P> +(11). <B>A Rolling Hitch</B> is commenced and finished like a clove hitch, +but as will be seen from the three diagrams (Figs. 25, 26, 27) +illustrating its construction, there is an intermediate round turn +between the first and last hitches. It is principally used for +securing the tail of a handy billy or snatch block to a larger rope, or +when hanging off a rope with a stopper. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig025"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig025.jpg" ALT="Fig. 25. Fig. 26. Fig. 27." BORDER="0" WIDTH="402" HEIGHT="562"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P14"></A>14}</SPAN> + +<P> +Note that the round turn in (Fig. 26) is taken round both the standing +part <I>a</I> and the larger rope. The great value of this hitch is its +non-liability to slip in the direction <I>B</I> (Fig. 27). If, however, +owing to an extremely severe strain or other causes the hitch is +inclined to slip, the end <I>e</I> should be backed round part <I>d</I> of the +first rope, that is, twisted around it in long lays in the opposite +direction to that in which the hitch was formed, and the end secured by +a stop (Fig. 28). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig028"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig028.jpg" ALT="Fig. 28." BORDER="0" WIDTH="162" HEIGHT="361"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(12). A Timber Hitch is a useful way of securing a rope quickly to a +plank, but when there is to be a long and continuous strain, or when it +is required to keep the end of a piece of timber pointed steadily in +one direction, it should be supplemented with a half hitch (Figs. 29, +30). +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P15"></A>15}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig029"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig029.jpg" ALT="Fig. 29. Fig. 30." BORDER="0" WIDTH="345" HEIGHT="431"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The timber hitch itself consists simply of a half hitch taken with a +rather long end, which is used up by twisting it back around its own +part of the hitch. In Fig. 29 the hitch is purposely left very loose +so that its formation may be the more easily seen. +</P> + +<P> +(13) <B>A Fisherman's Bend</B> is formed by taking two round turns around +the object to which the rope is to be secured, and then backing the end +round in the form of a half hitch under both the standing part and +second round turn. The end may be further secured by taking a half +hitch +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P16"></A>16}</SPAN> +around its own part or by stopping it to it (Figs. 31, 32), +the dotted line showing the next direction the end <I>c</I> must take. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig031"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig031.jpg" ALT="Fig. 31. Fig. 32." BORDER="0" WIDTH="472" HEIGHT="279"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +It is used when securing a hauling line to the ring of the kedge, or +for bending a rope to a bucket, etc., and is often called a bucket +hitch. +</P> + +<P> +(14). <B>A Topsail Halyard Bend</B>.—This bend is never seen in deep water +ships, but is sometimes used on board yachts. It is commenced in a +similar manner to a fisherman's bend, but three round turns are first +taken around the spar, the end being backed around the standing part +<I>a</I> and then led under all three turns as in Fig. 33, and then again +backed over the last two round turns and under the first, as shown in +Fig. 34. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P17"></A>17}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig033"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig033.jpg" ALT="Fig. 33. Fig. 34." BORDER="0" WIDTH="340" HEIGHT="400"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(14). <B>A Stun'sail Halyard Bend</B> is simply a Fisherman's bend with the +end backed again over the last round turn and under the first (Fig. 35). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig035"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig035.jpg" ALT="Fig. 35." BORDER="0" WIDTH="285" HEIGHT="147"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(15). <B>A Blackwall Hitch</B> is a quick way of temporarily securing a +rope to a hook. As will be seen from the illustration (Fig. 36) it +consists of a half hitch, the standing part <I>a</I> as soon as it receives +the strain jamming +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P18"></A>18}</SPAN> +the end part <I>c</I>. It holds much more firmly +than would be imagined at first sight. By taking another round turn at +<I>b</I> before passing the end <I>c</I> under <I>a</I>, it will hold more securely. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig036"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig036.jpg" ALT="Fig. 36." BORDER="0" WIDTH="294" HEIGHT="271"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(17). <B>A Midshipman's Hitch</B> is sometimes used instead of a Blackwall +hitch, and will hold better if the rope is at all greasy. It is made +by first forming a Blackwall hitch and then taking the underneath part +and placing it over the bill of the hook (Fig. 37). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig037"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig037.jpg" ALT="Fig. 37." BORDER="0" WIDTH="221" HEIGHT="231"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P19"></A>19}</SPAN> + +<P> +(18). <B>A Double Blackwall Hitch</B> is made by taking the bight of the +rope and placing it across the neck of the strop of the block, crossing +it behind, then placing the under part over the hook and crossing the +upper part on top of it (Fig. 38). It holds better than either of the +two preceding hitches. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig038"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig038.jpg" ALT="Fig. 38." BORDER="0" WIDTH="145" HEIGHT="249"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap02"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P20"></A>20}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +KNOTS, Etc., MADE ON THE BIGHT OF A ROPE, <BR> +THAT IS, WITHOUT UTILISING THE ENDS. +</H3> + +<P> +(1). <B>A Bowline on the Bight</B>—Using both parts of the rope together, +commence as in making an ordinary bowline (Fig. 39). To finish off, +open out bight <I>c</I>, and taking it in the direction indicated by the +dotted line, pass the whole knot through it and haul taut, when it will +appear as in Fig. 40. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig039"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig039.jpg" ALT="Fig. 39. Fig. 40." BORDER="0" WIDTH="409" HEIGHT="367"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P21"></A>21}</SPAN> + +<P> +(2). <B>A Marline-Spike Hitch</B> is used for getting a purchase with a +marline-spike, capstan bar, etc., when putting on a seizing or lashing. +By Fig. 41 it will be seen to consist of the standing part picked +through a loop laid over it, so that the spike lies under the standing +part and over the sides of the loop. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig041"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig041.jpg" ALT="Fig. 41." BORDER="0" WIDTH="306" HEIGHT="211"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(3). <B>A Sheep Shank</B> is used for shortening a rope. Gather up the +amount desired in the form of Fig. 42. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig042"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig042.jpg" ALT="Fig. 42." BORDER="0" WIDTH="365" HEIGHT="117"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Then with parts <I>a</I> and <I>b</I> form a half hitch round the two parts of +the bight as in Fig. 43. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig043"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig043.jpg" ALT="Fig. 43." BORDER="0" WIDTH="482" HEIGHT="124"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P22"></A>22}</SPAN> + +<P> +To render it still more dependable, the bight <I>a</I> and <I>b</I> may be seized +or toggled to the standing parts as in Figs. 44 and 45. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig044"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig044.jpg" ALT="Fig. 44. Fig. 45." BORDER="0" WIDTH="470" HEIGHT="293"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(4). <B>A Catspaw</B> is formed in a rope to make a temporary loop for +hooking on the block of a tackle. First throw back a bight as in Fig. +46. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig046"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig046.jpg" ALT="Fig. 46." BORDER="0" WIDTH="176" HEIGHT="259"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P23"></A>23}</SPAN> + +<P> +Then taking hold of <I>a</I> and <I>b</I> in either hand twist them up as in Fig. +47; bring together the two eyes <I>a</I> and <I>b</I> and hook in the tackle. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig047"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig047.jpg" ALT="Fig. 47." BORDER="0" WIDTH="140" HEIGHT="239"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap03"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P24"></A>24}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +KNOTS, BENDS, AND HITCHES FOR UNITING ROPES. +</H3> + +<P> +(1). <B>A Reef Knot</B>.—The simplest of all knots, and is always used +when a common tie is required. Its formation may be easily traced in +Figs. 48, 49, 50. Having constructed the knot as far as Fig. 48, be +sure part <I>a</I> is kept in front of part <I>b</I> as here shown, and the end +<I>c</I> led in according to the direction of the dotted line. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig048"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig048.jpg" ALT="Fig. 48. Fig. 49. Fig. 50." BORDER="0" WIDTH="487" HEIGHT="154"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(2). <B>A Common Bend or Sheet Bend</B>.—In making a bend the ends of the +two ropes are not used simultaneously as in forming a reef knot, but an +eye or loop is first formed in the end of one of the ropes as in Fig. +51, and the other rope's end is then rove through it in various ways +according to the bend desired. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P25"></A>25}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig051"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig051.jpg" ALT="Fig. 51." BORDER="0" WIDTH="190" HEIGHT="192"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +To form a Sheet Bend, pass the second rope's end underneath the eye at +point <I>a</I> and bring up through the loop, then form with it a half hitch +round <I>c</I> and <I>b</I> (Fig. 52). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig052"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig052.jpg" ALT="Fig. 52." BORDER="0" WIDTH="186" HEIGHT="205"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +It will hold still better and is less likely to jamb if the end <I>c</I> is +passed round again as in Fig. 53. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig053"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig053.jpg" ALT="Fig. 53." BORDER="0" WIDTH="184" HEIGHT="207"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P26"></A>26}</SPAN> + +<P> +(3). For bending two hauling lines together use a <B>Carrick Bend</B>. +First form with hawser No. 1 a loop as in Fig. 54. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig054"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig054.jpg" ALT="Fig. 54." BORDER="0" WIDTH="206" HEIGHT="218"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Pass the second hawser under the first at <I>a</I>, bring up through the eye +<I>b</I>, back it over the cross at <I>c</I>, and bring up again towards you +through the eye <I>b</I>, and then stop the ends of each hawser to their own +respective parts (Fig. 55). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig055"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig055.jpg" ALT="Fig. 55." BORDER="0" WIDTH="212" HEIGHT="362"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P27"></A>27}</SPAN> + +<P> +(4). <I>A Double Carrick Bend</I> is formed in precisely a similar manner, +but a complete round turn is taken around the cross of the first hawser +at <I>c</I>, and then led up again through the eye <I>b</I> and finished off as +before (Fig. 56). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig056"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig056.jpg" ALT="Fig. 56." BORDER="0" WIDTH="151" HEIGHT="400"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(5). <B>A Diamond Knot</B> formed by the two ends of a rope is really a +fancy knot. It is often made with Hambro' line in forming lanyards for +marline-spikes, knives, etc. It is a pretty knot and very easily made. +</P> + +<P> +First lay one of the cords in a loop shaped as in Fig. 57. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P28"></A>28}</SPAN> + +<P> +Notice carefully how this loop is lettered, and then, taking up the +second cord, lay it under the loop at <I>a</I>, straight along also under +the loop at <I>b</I>, now bring it over the first cord at <I>c</I> and under it +at <I>d</I> and over it at <I>e</I>, then dip it under its own part now lying +between <I>a</I> and <I>b</I>, and lead it over the first cord at <I>f</I>. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig057"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig057.jpg" ALT="Fig. 57." BORDER="0" WIDTH="226" HEIGHT="267"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The knot, still in an unfinished state, will now appear as in Fig. 58. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig058"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig058.jpg" ALT="Fig. 58." BORDER="0" WIDTH="313" HEIGHT="356"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P29"></A>29}</SPAN> + +<P> +Now lead the ends in the direction indicated by the dotted lines +(taking care beforehand that you have them sufficiently long for the +purpose), and bring them both up through the opening <I>a</I>. Bring the +two standing parts <I>b</I> and <I>c</I> together, and gradually render all parts +in turn to work up the knot as tight as possible, when it will appear +as in Fig. 59. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig059"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig059.jpg" ALT="Fig. 59." BORDER="0" WIDTH="149" HEIGHT="281"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap04"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P30"></A>30}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY THEIR OWN STRANDS. +</H3> + +<P> +Although our next series of knots are generally known as "fancy knots" +they are by no means merely ornamental, many of them playing important +parts in the standing rigging of a ship. +</P> + +<P> +(1). <B>To Form a Wall Knot</B>.—First unlay the rope so that the strands +appear as in Fig. 60. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig060"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig060.jpg" ALT="Fig. 60." BORDER="0" WIDTH="355" HEIGHT="382"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P31"></A>31}</SPAN> + +<P> +Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right lead strand <I>a</I> in +the direction indicated by the dotted line, viz., under strand <I>b</I> and +up between strands <I>b</I> and <I>c</I> (Fig. 61). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig061"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig061.jpg" ALT="Fig. 61." BORDER="0" WIDTH="276" HEIGHT="356"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Then with strand <I>b</I> form a similar loop, enclosing strands <I>a</I> and +<I>c</I>, and bringing the end of strand <I>b</I> up between <I>a</I> and <I>d</I> (Fig. +62). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig062"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig062.jpg" ALT="Fig. 62." BORDER="0" WIDTH="419" HEIGHT="366"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P32"></A>32}</SPAN> + +<P> +Now with strand <I>c</I> form a similar loop, enclosing strands <I>b</I> and <I>a</I> +by leading the end of strand <I>c</I> up through the loop <I>e</I> in strand <I>a</I> +(Fig. 63). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig063"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig063.jpg" ALT="Fig. 63." BORDER="0" WIDTH="305" HEIGHT="426"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Finally, work all parts well taut, whip the ends of the strands +together and cut off short (Fig. 64). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig064"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig064.jpg" ALT="Fig. 64." BORDER="0" WIDTH="190" HEIGHT="181"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P33"></A>33}</SPAN> + +<P> +(2). <B>A Double Wall Knot</B> is formed by allowing each strand to again +follow its lead as given in a single wall knot, opening out the first +loops again with a pricker sufficiently for the purpose. The three +strands are as before brought up in the centre and cut off short after +whipping them together. This knot is also known as a stopper knot. +</P> + +<P> +(3). <B>A Crown Knot</B> is formed by interlacing the strands in a similar +manner to a wall knot, but the strands are successively led <I>over</I> each +other instead of under. Its construction will be easily followed in +Fig. 65. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig065"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig065.jpg" ALT="Fig. 65." BORDER="0" WIDTH="205" HEIGHT="239"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Double crowning is done by following round each strand again alongside +its first lead. +</P> + +<P> +Our next two knots are but combinations of the wall and crown. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P34"></A>34}</SPAN> + +<P> +(4). <B>A Manrope Knot</B> is made by first forming a wall and then +crowning it (Fig. 66.) +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig066"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig066.jpg" ALT="Fig. 66." BORDER="0" WIDTH="200" HEIGHT="241"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Then follow round the wall again, and lastly, follow round the crown, +when the finished knot will appear as in Fig. 67. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig067"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig067.jpg" ALT="Fig. 67." BORDER="0" WIDTH="160" HEIGHT="223"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +A knot formed by making a crown first and then a wall, and afterwards +following round the crown and wall again is another form of the Stopper +Knot. It is very similar in appearance when finished to a Manrope Knot. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P35"></A>35}</SPAN> + +<P> +(5). <B>A Single Matthew Walker</B>.—To make this knot commence similarly +to a wall, but pass the first strand <I>a</I> under both <I>b</I> and <I>c</I>, as in +Fig. 68. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig068"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig068.jpg" ALT="Fig. 68." BORDER="0" WIDTH="380" HEIGHT="349"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Then pass <I>b</I> under both strands <I>c</I> and <I>a</I>, and bring up through the +loop first formed by <I>a</I> (Fig. 69). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig069"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig069.jpg" ALT="Fig. 69." BORDER="0" WIDTH="235" HEIGHT="346"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P36"></A>36}</SPAN> + +<P> +Similarly pass <I>c</I> under <I>a</I> and <I>b</I>, and bring up through the loop +first formed by <I>b</I> (Fig. 70). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig070"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig070.jpg" ALT="Fig. 70." BORDER="0" WIDTH="273" HEIGHT="368"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(6). <B>A Double Matthew Walker</B> will be easily learnt if you notice the +difference between a single Matthew Walker and a Wall Knot. +</P> + +<P> +In the Wall Knot you will have noticed that each strand is simply +interlaced with the strand immediately on its right coming up through +the loop formed by this second strand. +</P> + +<P> +In the single Matthew Walker each strand interlaces the two strands to +its right, coming up through the loop of the third strand. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P37"></A>37}</SPAN> + +<P> +Another evolution in the same order brings us to the double Matthew +Walker. It is formed, as will be seen by carefully following diagram +71, by making each strand contain in its own loop, the other two +strands, and <I>its own</I> end, that is, each strand leads up through its +own bight after interlacing the other two. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig071"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig071.jpg" ALT="Fig. 71. Fig. 72." BORDER="0" WIDTH="457" HEIGHT="461"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +When worked taut and finished off, it will appear as in Fig. 72. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P38"></A>38}</SPAN> + +<P> +(7). <B>A Single Diamond Knot</B>.—This is another method of forming the +knot shown in Fig. 59, which in that case was formed by the two ends of +the same rope. +</P> + +<P> +To form it on a rope by its own strands, unlay the rope to the place +where it is desired to form the knot, and as after the knot is made the +strands will have to be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay +in the strands as much as possible. Now bring each of the three +strands down alongside the standing part of the rope, thus forming +three bights, and hold them thus with the left hand. Take the first +strand <I>a</I> (Fig. 73) and, putting it over the next, <I>b</I>, bring it up +through the bight of the third strand <I>c</I>. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig073"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig073.jpg" ALT="Fig. 73." BORDER="0" WIDTH="231" HEIGHT="318"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P39"></A>39}</SPAN> + +<P> +Take the end of the second strand over the third and up the bight of +the first. The last strand is brought through over the first and up +through the bight of the second. Haul taut, and lay the rope up again. +Fig. 74 shows the loops in their places with the ends through them +before they are hauled taut. Fig. 75 gives the knot finished. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig074"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig074.jpg" ALT="Fig. 74. Fig. 75." BORDER="0" WIDTH="446" HEIGHT="365"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +For a double diamond we first make a single diamond, the ends are then +made to follow the lead of the single knot through two single bights, +the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last strand passes through +two double bights. The ends are then hauled taut and laid up as before +(Fig. 76). +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P40"></A>40}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig076"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig076.jpg" ALT="Fig. 76." BORDER="0" WIDTH="145" HEIGHT="295"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(8). <B>A Shroud Knot</B> is a method of joining two ropes. Each is unlaid +the necessary length, and they are then brought close together. A Wall +Knot is formed on each rope with the strands of the other (Fig. 77). +</P> + +<P> +The completed knot is shown in Fig. 78, but to make a neat job the ends +should be marled and served as in Fig. 79. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig077"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig077.jpg" ALT="Fig. 77. Fig. 78. Fig. 79." BORDER="0" WIDTH="485" HEIGHT="295"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P41"></A>41}</SPAN> + +<P> +(9). <B>A Spritsail Sheet Knot</B>.—Unlay both ends of the rope and bring +the two standing parts of the rope together as in Fig. 80. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig080"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig080.jpg" ALT="Fig. 80." BORDER="0" WIDTH="267" HEIGHT="375"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Grasping both parts of the rope at <I>a</I>, with the six strands form a +Wall Knot, that is, by passing 1 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 under +5, 5 under 6, and 6 under the loop formed by 1. +</P> + +<P> +This would appear too confusing if shown in a diagram, but the knot is +very easily made in practice. +</P> + +<P> +Now lay any opposite two of the strands across the top +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P42"></A>42}</SPAN> +in an +<I>opposite direction</I>, and crown by passing the other four, each in +turn, alternately over and under these two. +</P> + +<P> +Each of the six strands will then come out leading in a downward +direction alongside the strands forming the first walling. +</P> + +<P> +Now follow round the walling again, when the strands will come through +in an upward direction, each alongside a strand of the first crowning. +</P> + +<P> +Follow through the crowning once more, and cut off the ends short, when +a handsome and useful Stopper Knot will result, as shown in Fig. 81. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig081"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig081.jpg" ALT="Fig. 81." BORDER="0" WIDTH="156" HEIGHT="288"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap05"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P43"></A>43}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +SPLICES. +</H3> + +<P> +(1). <B>An Eye Splice</B> is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a +short distance, and then, after closing up the end, to form an eye of +the desired size. Lay the three strands upon the standing part, now +tuck the middle strand through the strand of the standing part of the +rope next to it (against the lay of the rope), then pass the strand on +the left over the strand under which No. 1 strand is tucked, and tuck +it under the next, and lastly, put the remaining strand through the +third strand on the other side of the rope (Fig. 82.) +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig082"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig082.jpg" ALT="Fig. 82." BORDER="0" WIDTH="494" HEIGHT="218"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P44"></A>44}</SPAN> + +<P> +Now tuck each strand again alternately over a strand and under a strand +of the rope, and then taper off by halving the strands before tucking +the third time, and again halve them before the fourth tuck. +</P> + +<P> +If the strands are tucked with the lay of the rope it is termed a +Sailmaker's Splice. +</P> + +<P> +(2). <B>A Short Splice</B> is used to join two ropes when it is not +required to pass through a block. Unlay the two ropes the required +distance, and clutch them together as in Fig. 83, that is, so that the +strands of one rope go alternately between the strands of the other. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig083"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig083.jpg" ALT="Fig. 83." BORDER="0" WIDTH="265" HEIGHT="123"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Then tuck the strands of rope a into the rope <I>b</I> in a similar manner +to that described in an eye splice, and similarly tuck the strands of +<I>b</I> into <I>a</I> (Figs. 84 and 85). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig084"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig084.jpg" ALT="Fig. 84. Fig. 85." BORDER="0" WIDTH="323" HEIGHT="244"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P45"></A>45}</SPAN> + +<P> +(3). <B>A Cut Splice</B> is made by laying two ropes in the position +indicated in Fig. 86. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig086"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig086.jpg" ALT="Fig. 86." BORDER="0" WIDTH="499" HEIGHT="183"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Leaving the ropes between <I>a a</I> to form an oblong loop, tuck the +strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye splice. Splices +are often wormed, parcelled, and served. Fig. 87 shows the cut splice +after this treatment. +</P> + +<P> +A log-line splice is a cut splice, but instead of allowing the loop to +appear, the two lines are twisted together. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig087"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig087.jpg" ALT="Fig. 87." BORDER="0" WIDTH="441" HEIGHT="132"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(4). <B>A Long Splice</B> is one of the most useful of splices, as it +permits the rope to run through a block just the same as an unspliced +rope. +</P> + +<P> +Unlay the ends of two ropes to a distance about four times the length +used in a short splice, and then clutch them together as if about to +commence a short splice. Now unlay one strand for a considerable +distance and fill +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P46"></A>46}</SPAN> +up the gap thus caused by twisting in the strand +opposite to it of the other rope. Then do the same with two more +strands. Let the remaining two strands stay as they were first placed. +The ropes will now appear as in Fig. 88. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig088"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig088.jpg" ALT="Fig. 88." BORDER="0" WIDTH="464" HEIGHT="133"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +To finish off, tuck the ends as in a short splice, but <I>with</I> the lay +of the rope, that is, so that the tuck will continually take place +around the same strand, and taper off gradually by reducing the yarns +in the strand. +</P> + +<P> +(5). <B>To Make a Grommet</B>, cut a strand about three and a half times +the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and keep +the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in the form of a ring +(Fig. 89), and then pass the ends round and round in their original lay +until all the intervals are filled up (Fig. 90), and then finish off +the two ends as in a long splice (Fig. 91). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig089"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig089.jpg" ALT="Fig. 89. Fig. 90. Fig. 91." BORDER="0" WIDTH="438" HEIGHT="185"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap06"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P47"></A>47}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +WIRE SPLICING. +</H3> + +<P> +In splicing wire, great care should be taken to prevent kinks getting +in the rope or strands. +</P> + +<P> +With steel wire, always before working it, put a stop on at the place +to which you intend to unlay, and also put a good whipping of twine at +the end of each strand. +</P> + +<P> +Steel wire is six-stranded right-handed, and has a heart of hemp. +Flexible wire has a heart of hemp in each strand. +</P> + +<P> +Crucible wire is made in the same manner, except that the strands are +wire throughout. +</P> + +<P> +Crucible wire is used for standing rigging and flexible wire for +purchases, etc. +</P> + +<P> +In splicing wire all tucks are made with the lay of the rope. +</P> + +<P> +In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a +convenient position so that when standing up the eye will be at about +the level of the chest of the person working. +</P> + +<P> +A long tapering steel marline-spike is required, and after placing it +under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the +slack of the strand drawn through. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P48"></A>48}</SPAN> + +<P> +There are several methods in vogue for tucking the strand, but the +following is as good as any:—Tuck the first strand under two strands +and all the rest under one strand respectively. Tuck whole again, and +this time each strand under one strand, then halve the strands and tuck +again. +</P> + +<P> +To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not +been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the +strands never take a short nip but take long lays. +</P> + +<P> +In unlaying for a long splice, always unlay two strands simultaneously, +to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay +about 9 ft. of each end. +</P> + +<P> +Proceed as in rope splicing, and after the three pairs of strands are +in their places, single them, and continue to unlay and lay-in until +the six meeting places of the strands are equi-distant. +</P> + +<P> +To finish off the ends properly can only be learnt by observation and +actual practice. By using two marline-spikes, the hempen heart is +removed and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it +occupied, making a very neat job when finished. +</P> + +<P> +Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served with +Hambro' line. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap07"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P49"></A>49}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PURCHASES. +</H3> + +<P> +(1) <B>Single Whip</B>.—A rope rove through a single block fixed in any +position. No power is gained (Fig. 92). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig092"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig092.jpg" ALT="Fig. 92." BORDER="0" WIDTH="150" HEIGHT="295"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(2). <B>Double Whip</B>.—A rope rove through two single blocks—upper +block a tail block, lower one a movable hook block. Power +gained—double (Fig. 93). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig093"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig093.jpg" ALT="Fig. 93." BORDER="0" WIDTH="142" HEIGHT="339"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P50"></A>50}</SPAN> + +<P> +(3). <B>A Runner</B> adds an additional power to the purchase it is used +with (Fig. 94). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig094"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig094.jpg" ALT="Fig. 94." BORDER="0" WIDTH="117" HEIGHT="319"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(4). <B>Gun Tackle</B>.—single blocks. Power gained—twice or thrice, +according to which is the movable block (Fig. 95). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig095"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig095.jpg" ALT="Fig. 95." BORDER="0" WIDTH="111" HEIGHT="361"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P51"></A>51}</SPAN> + +<P> +(5). <B>Handy Billy or Jigger</B>.—A small tackle for general use; a +double block with a tail and single block with hook (Fig. 96). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig096"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig096.jpg" ALT="Fig. 96." BORDER="0" WIDTH="149" HEIGHT="369"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(6). <B>Watch Tackle or Luff Tackle</B>.—Double hook block and single hook +block (Fig. 97). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig097"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig097.jpg" ALT="Fig. 97." BORDER="0" WIDTH="129" HEIGHT="365"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P52"></A>52}</SPAN> + +<P> +(7). <B>Double Luff</B>.—Two double blocks (Fig. 98). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig098"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig098.jpg" ALT="Fig. 98." BORDER="0" WIDTH="131" HEIGHT="355"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(8). <B>Three-Fold Purchase</B>.—Two three-fold blocks. Power gained—six +or seven times (Fig. 99). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig099"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig099.jpg" ALT="Fig. 99." BORDER="0" WIDTH="120" HEIGHT="355"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P53"></A>53}</SPAN> + +<P> +(9). <B>Four-Fold Purchase</B>.—Two four-fold blocks. Power gained—eight +or nine times (Fig. 100). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig100"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig100.jpg" ALT="Fig. 100." BORDER="0" WIDTH="153" HEIGHT="350"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(10). <B>A Single Spanish Burton</B>.—Two single blocks and a hook. Power +gained—three times (Fig. 101). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig101"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig101.jpg" ALT="Fig. 101." BORDER="0" WIDTH="158" HEIGHT="356"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P54"></A>54}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig102"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig102.jpg" ALT="Fig. 102." BORDER="0" WIDTH="181" HEIGHT="318"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(11). <B>A Double Spanish Burton</B>.—There are two forms of this +purchase—Fig. 102, by using three single blocks; Fig. 103, by using +one double block and two single blocks. Power gained—five times. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig103"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig103.jpg" ALT="Fig. 103." BORDER="0" WIDTH="218" HEIGHT="325"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P55"></A>55}</SPAN> + +<P> +(12). <B>A Spanish Windlass</B>.—To rig a Spanish Windlass take a good +strand well greased in the centre. Place the strand over the two parts +of the rope that are to be hove together, and bringing the ends of the +strand up again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the ends of +the strand and lay them up with their own parts so as to form two eyes. +Take a round turn with this round the bolt, put a marline-spike through +each eye and heave around (Fig. 104). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig104"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig104.jpg" ALT="Fig. 104." BORDER="0" WIDTH="218" HEIGHT="206"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap08"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P56"></A>56}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +MISCELLANEOUS ODDS AND ENDS. +</H3> + +<P> +(1). <B>A Palm and Needle Whipping</B> is a more permanent way of securing +a rope's end from fraying than the common whipping put on by hand. +First, place the needle under one of the strands and draw nearly the +whole length of twine through. Take a considerable number of turns +round the rope with the twine, drawing each well taut in turn, and +finish up by following round with the needle between each strand, +forming a series of frappings, and cut off the end of the twine short +(Fig. 105). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig105"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig105.jpg" ALT="Fig. 105." BORDER="0" WIDTH="135" HEIGHT="189"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(2). <B>A West Country Whipping</B> is formed by middling the twine around +the part of the rope to be marked and half knotting it at every half +turn, so that each half knot will be on opposite sides. When a +sufficient number of turns are passed, finish it off with a reef knot. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P57"></A>57}</SPAN> + +<P> +(3). <B>An American Whipping</B> is sometimes used for the ends of hawsers. +It is commenced in the same way as a common whipping, but finished off +by having both ends out in the middle of the whipping and forming a +reef knot. This is done by leaving the first end out when you commence +to pass the turns on the bight over the last end. +</P> + +<P> +(4). <B>To Point a Rope End</B>.—First put a stop on at twice and a half +the circumference of the rope from the end, which will leave about the +length for pointing, unlay the rope to the stop and then unlay the +strands. Split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle out of +each yarn. (A nettle is made by laying up the yarns with the finger +and thumb left-handed.) When the nettles are made stop them back on +the standing part of the rope; then form the point with the rest of the +yarns by scraping them down to a proper size with a knife, and marl +them down together with twine; divide the nettles, taking every other +one up and every other one down. Pass three turns with a piece of +twine—which is called the warp—very taut round the part where the +nettles separate, taking a hitch with the last turn. Continue to +repeat this process by placing every alternate nettle up and down, +passing the warp or "filling," taking a hitch each time, until the +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P58"></A>58}</SPAN> + +point is to its required length. It is generally finished off by +working a small Flemish eye in the end (Figs. 106 and 107). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig106"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig106.jpg" ALT="Fig. 106. Fig. 107." BORDER="0" WIDTH="353" HEIGHT="418"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(5). <B>Turk's Head</B>.—The Turk's Head is one of the most common of the +ornamental knots used at sea, and is formed from an ordinary clove +hitch (Fig. 108) made sufficiently slack to allow for the working of +the other parts. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig108"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig108.jpg" ALT="Fig. 108." BORDER="0" WIDTH="405" HEIGHT="357"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Having formed the clove hitch, pass <I>b</I> over <I>c</I> and tuck <I>a</I> under and +up through the bight formed by <I>c</I> as in Fig. 109. It will then be +found that there is another twist in +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P60"></A>60}</SPAN> +the parts <I>b</I> and <I>c</I>, tuck +<I>a</I> under <I>e</I> and over <I>b</I>. Then go on as in Fig. 109, and put <I>b</I> +over <I>c</I> again and tuck <I>a</I> as before. The number of crossings +required depends principally on the size of the material on which the +Turk's Head is formed. To finish off as in Fig. 110, the part <I>a</I> is +made to follow <I>d</I> (Fig 108) round for three times. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig109"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig109.jpg" ALT="Fig. 109." BORDER="0" WIDTH="403" HEIGHT="364"> +</CENTER> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-fig110"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig110.jpg" ALT="Fig. 110." BORDER="0" WIDTH="272" HEIGHT="355"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(6). <B>Mousing a Hook</B>.—All hooks in running gear should be moused as +in Fig. 111. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig111"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig111.jpg" ALT="Fig. 111." BORDER="0" WIDTH="133" HEIGHT="160"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P61"></A>61}</SPAN> + +<P> +(7). <B>Securing Lead Line to Lead</B>.—The lead is fitted with a good +wire grommet parcelled over. The lead line should have a long eye +spliced in it, and is secured by passing the eye through the grommet +and over the lead (Fig. 112). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig112"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig112.jpg" ALT="Fig. 112." BORDER="0" WIDTH="104" HEIGHT="351"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(8). <B>Fitting a Flag</B>.—A toggle should be secured at the head of the +hoist by an eye splice; a length of rope equal to the width of the flag +left below the hoist, as this is the distance the flags should be +apart, and then a running eye splice made so as to be rapidly attached +to the next flag. +</P> + +<P> +(9). <B>To Stick a Cringle</B>.—First unlay a single strand from +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P62"></A>62}</SPAN> +the +size of rope your cringle is required to be, whip both ends, reeve the +strand through the left hand eyelet hole in the sail, having one end +longer than the other—nearly a third—keeping the roping of the sail +towards you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the +parts of the strand together, counting three lays; commence with the +short end of the strand towards you, then reeve the long strand from +you through the right hand eyelet hole, taking it through the cringle, +and it will be in the right position to lay up in the vacant space left +in the cringle; when done, the one end will hang down inside the right +hand eyelet hole and the other end outside the left hand one; the ends +are then hitched by being rove through their respective eyelet holes +and passed over the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch +being towards you and the other from you; then take the ends down under +one strand on the right and two on the left of cringle nearest to it; +then tuck the ends under the first two strands nearest the hitch, +heaving them well in place; the cringle is then fidded out, and the +thimble is put in on the fore part of the sail. The ends of the strand +are then tucked back, left-handed, under one strand, again under two, +right-handed, as in the first place, heaving them taut in place +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P63"></A>63}</SPAN> +at +each tuck, the ends are then whipped with two of their own yarns and +cut off. If a large cringle is needed, count an extra number of +lays—5, 7, etc., always an odd number. +</P> + +<P> +(10). <B>To Finish a Cringle off on the Crown</B>.—Commence as before, but +after laying up the strand, instead of forming a hitch with each end, +the ends are rove through their respective eyelet holes and tucked back +under two strands of the cringles and again laid up as far as the +crown, forming a four-stranded cringle, and finished off by tucking the +ends under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle +and cut close off. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig113"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig113.jpg" ALT="Fig. 113. Fig. 114." BORDER="0" WIDTH="500" HEIGHT="340"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P64"></A>64}</SPAN> + +<P> +In working a cringle in a piece of rope the only difference is there +are no eyelet holes, therefore the strand is tucked under two strands +of the rope it is to be worked in. +</P> + +<P> +(11). <B>To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand</B>.—Say it is +necessary to give a sail one cloth more spread, it would then be +necessary to lengthen the head and foot rope. Supposing the width of +cloth to be 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 in. After ripping the +rope off four cloths, first of all cut the strand at the distance 2 ft. +6 in. from each other as in Fig. 115. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig115"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig115.jpg" ALT="Fig. 115." BORDER="0" WIDTH="480" HEIGHT="101"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Cut one of the strands at <I>a</I> and unlay it to <I>c</I>, then cut one of the +strands remaining at <I>c</I> and unlay it to <I>b</I>, laying the strand <I>a</I> up +again as far as <I>b</I>; then cut the only remaining strand at <I>b</I>, which +will be the centre, when your rope will be in two parts. By following +the plan the wrong strand cannot possibly be cut. The rope will now +appear as in Fig. 116. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig116"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig116.jpg" ALT="Fig. 116." BORDER="0" WIDTH="484" HEIGHT="137"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P65"></A>65}</SPAN> + +<P> +Now marry the long end <I>a</I> to the end <I>b</I>, then lay up the long strand +<I>c</I> in the lays of the strand <I>a</I>, and marry it to the other strand <I>b</I> +as in Fig. 117. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig117"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig117.jpg" ALT="Fig. 117." BORDER="0" WIDTH="486" HEIGHT="139"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Take a strand about 10 ft. in length of the same size rope and marry +one end to the short strand <I>a</I> as shown above, then fill up the space +left from <I>a</I> to <I>c</I> by laying in the new strand, and marry the other +end to the short strand <I>c</I>. You will then have four splices to finish +off as ordinary long splices (Fig. 118). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig118"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig118.jpg" ALT="Fig. 118." BORDER="0" WIDTH="487" HEIGHT="109"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(11). <B>Jury Knot</B>. The jury knot is useful when a jury mast has to be +rigged, as the loops form a means of attaching the necessary supports +to the mast. The centre <I>k</I> (Fig. 120) is slipped over the masthead, +and the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds it in its +position on the mast. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P66"></A>66}</SPAN> + +<P> +It is formed by three ordinary half-hitches, each placed behind the +other and with the loop of the last laid over the first, as in Fig. 119. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig119"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig119.jpg" ALT="Fig. 119." BORDER="0" WIDTH="444" HEIGHT="409"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Having done this, keep the hitches together with the right hand, and +with the left take <I>a</I> and dip it under <I>b</I> and pull <I>c</I> through <I>a</I> +and <I>b</I>. Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place <I>f</I> over +<I>e</I>, and pull <I>d</I> between <I>e</I> and <I>f</I>. Take <I>g</I> in the teeth and pull +on the parts <I>g</I>, <I>f</I>, and <I>a</I>. The ends <I>h</I> and <I>z</I> may be either +knotted or spliced. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P67"></A>67}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig120"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig120.jpg" ALT="Fig. 120." BORDER="0" WIDTH="430" HEIGHT="293"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(13). <B>Sling for a Barrel</B>.—The following method of slinging a barrel +is adopted when it is desired to hoist it up end on. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig121"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig121.jpg" ALT="Fig. 121." BORDER="0" WIDTH="217" HEIGHT="311"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Pass the bight <I>a</I> of the rope under the lower end of the barrel and +bring the two parts up, and with them +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P68"></A>68}</SPAN> +form an overhand knot <I>b</I>, +which is opened out so as to fit over the end of the barrel. +</P> + +<P> +The bight <I>a</I> is placed under the cask, and the overhand knot <I>b</I> is +slipped over the head, and the two ends are brought up and knotted as +in Fig. 122. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig122"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig122.jpg" ALT="Fig. 122." BORDER="0" WIDTH="306" HEIGHT="429"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(14). <B>Chain Knot</B>.—An easy and ornamental way of shortening a rope +is that known as the chain knot. +</P> + +<P> +To form it proceed as though you are going to make an ordinary overhand +knot, but instead of working with both ends use the end and a bight as +in Fig. 123. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P69"></A>69}</SPAN> + +<P> +This will form the loop <I>a</I>, Fig. 123, through which pass a bight of +<I>b</I> and continue in this way until all the slack rope is used up, and +it can be finished off by running the end through the last loop (Fig. +124). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig123"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig123.jpg" ALT="Fig. 123. Fig. 124." BORDER="0" WIDTH="456" HEIGHT="490"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +(15). <B>Double Chain</B>.—The Double Chain is a little more intricate +than the chain knot, and is formed by taking a turn round the standing +part and thus forming a loop +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P70"></A>70}</SPAN> +<I>c</I>, through which the end <I>a</I> is +passed, thus forming the loop <I>b</I> (Fig. 125). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig125"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig125.jpg" ALT="Fig. 125." BORDER="0" WIDTH="350" HEIGHT="278"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The end <I>a</I> is brought back and dipped down through <I>b</I> and this is +continued as long as required, finishing off by running the end through +the last bight and hauling it taut (Fig. 126). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig126"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig126.jpg" ALT="Fig. 126." BORDER="0" WIDTH="159" HEIGHT="309"> +</CENTER> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P71"></A>71}</SPAN> + +<P> +(16). <B>Twist Or Plait Knot</B>.—Another method of shortening a small +handy rope is known as the twist or plait knot. +</P> + +<P> +Arrange the rope in such a manner that the amount to be taken up forms +a bight as in Fig. 127. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig127"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig127.jpg" ALT="Fig. 127. Fig. 128." BORDER="0" WIDTH="392" HEIGHT="349"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +Then by taking <I>a</I> over <I>b</I> and <I>c</I> over <I>b</I>, and so on, taking the +outside one on each side alternately over the middle one, the plait is +formed. To keep the plait clear, the end has to be continually dipped +through the first bight made (Fig. 128). +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap09"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P72"></A>72}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +HOW TO HANDLE WIRE ROPE, ETC. +</H3> + +<P> +<B>The following article by a Wire Specialist will be read with +interest</B>:— +</P> + +<P> +When uncoiling Wire Rope it is important that no kinks are allowed to +form, as once a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out, and +the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turn-table should be +employed (an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an excellent +one); the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without kinks. +(See Fig. 129.) +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig129"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig129.jpg" ALT="Fig. 129. Fig. 130." BORDER="0" WIDTH="451" HEIGHT="294"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +If a turn-table is not available the rope may be rolled along the +ground as shown in Fig. 130. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P73"></A>73}</SPAN> + +<P> +In no case must the rope be laid on the ground and the end taken over +(as in Fig. 131), or kinks will result, and the rope will be completely +spoiled. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig131"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig131.jpg" ALT="Fig. 131." BORDER="0" WIDTH="231" HEIGHT="297"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The life of Wire Rope depends principally upon the diameter of drums, +sheaves, and pulleys; and too much importance cannot be given to the +size of the latter. Wherever possible the size of the pulleys should +be not less than 700 times the diameter of the largest wire in the +rope, and never less than 300 times. The diameters of drums, sheaves, +and pulleys should increase with the working load when the factor of +safety is less than 5 to 1. +</P> + +<P> +The load should not be lifted with a jerk, as the strain may equal +three or four times the proper load, and a sound rope may easily be +broken. +</P> + +<P> +Examine ropes frequently. A new rope is cheaper than the risk of +killing or maiming employees. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P74"></A>74}</SPAN> + +<P> +One-fifth of the ultimate strength of the rope should be considered a +fair working load. +</P> + +<P> +In shafts and elevators where human life is constantly raised and +lowered, the working load should not be more than one-tenth of the +ultimate breaking strength of the rope. +</P> + +<P> +To increase the amount of work done, it is better to increase the +working load than the speed of the rope. Experience has shown that the +wear of the rope increases with the speed. +</P> + +<P> +Wire Rope should be greased when running or idle. Rust destroys as +effectively as hard work. +</P> + +<P> +Galvanized Wire Rope should never be used for running rope. One day's +use will wear off the coating of zinc, and the rope will soon begin to +rust. +</P> + +<P> +Great care should be taken that the grooves of drums and sheaves are +perfectly smooth, ample in diameter, and conformed to the surface of +the rope. They should also be in perfect line with the rope, so that +the latter may not chafe on the sides of the grooves. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +Set of Wire Rope Splicing Tools. +</H4> + +<P> +To produce the best work, the splicer should have at his disposal a set +of tools similar to those in the accompanying illustration. +</P> + +<P> +The Tool set consists of—1 Tucker for Small Strands Splicing; 1 Marlin +Spike, Round; 1 Marlin Spike, Flatted; 1 Pair Special Steel Wire +Cutters; 1 Serving Mallet. All of best Cast Steel, Hand Forged. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P75"></A>75}</SPAN> + +<A NAME="img-fig132"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig132.jpg" ALT="Fig 132." BORDER="0" WIDTH="512" HEIGHT="679"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +These Sets may be had at prices varying from 15/6 to 46/-. +</P> + +<BR> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P76"></A>76}</SPAN> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +Directions for Splicing. +</H4> + +<P> +TO MAKE AN ENDLESS SPLICE.—Clamps are applied to the rope sufficiently +far back from the ends to allow plenty of room for the splice, and the +men to operate in. The two ends are then drawn together by means of +blocks and tackle, until they overlap each other for a space of twenty +to thirty feet, according to the size of the rope. At a point from +each end midway of the lap, the rope must be bound with a good serving +of No. 18 or No. 20 annealed wire. The serving at the extreme ends is +then cut off, the strands untwisted to the new serving, and the hemp +cores also cut off so as to abut when the open bunches of strands are +brought together, and the opposite strands interlaced regularly with +each other, presenting the appearance as near as can be shown (Fig. +133). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig133"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig133.jpg" ALT="Fig. 133." BORDER="0" WIDTH="433" HEIGHT="285"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +After these are all correctly interlaced, pull the ropes tightly +together, so that the cores abut against one another. Next take +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P77"></A>77}</SPAN> +strand No. 1, and as it is being unlaid, follow it up with strand A, +which must be laid into its place tightly until within five feet from +the end. Strand No. 1 is then cut off, leaving it five feet long, same +length as A strand. The remaining strands are treated the same way, +three alternate strands being laid towards the right hand and three to +the left. The strands being now all laid in their places, the ends are +cut off, as with the first strands, to five feet. The appearance of +splice will now be the same as in Fig. 134. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig134"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig134.jpg" ALT="Fig. 134." BORDER="0" WIDTH="523" HEIGHT="122"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The next thing is to tuck in the ends, and this is where the skill +comes in. Before doing this, <I>care should be observed to see that the +spliced portion of the rope is perfectly limp, or free of tension, +otherwise this operation cannot be well performed</I>. The core is then +cut and pulled out on the side corresponding with the end to be tucked +in for a distance equal to the length of the end which is to replace +it. It is desirable, especially if the rope is composed of small +wires, to tie the ends of the strands with soft twine or threads of +jute yarn in order to keep the wires well bunched. A marlin spike is +then passed over <B>1</B> and under two of the strands, when the core is cut +off at the proper point, and by moving the spike along the rope +spirally with the strands, the loose end <B>1</B> is passed into the core +space and the spike withdrawn. +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P78"></A>78}</SPAN> +Then pull out the core on the +other side, pass the marlin spike over A and under two strands as +before, cut off the core, and tuck in the end A in precisely the same +manner, after which the rope is twisted back again as tightly as +possible, and the clamps or other appliances that may be used are +removed to the next pair of projecting ends. Any slight inequality in +the symmetrical shape of the rope may be taken out by pounding with a +wooden mallet. Some prefer to tuck in first all the ends projecting in +one direction, and then the ends projecting the other way; it is +immaterial in what order they are tucked in. +</P> + +<P> +If these directions are implicitly followed, the spliced portion of the +rope will be of uniform diameter with other portions, and will present +a smooth and even appearance throughout. After running a day or two, +the locality of the splice cannot be readily detected, and the rope +will be quite as strong in this portion as any other. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +Splicing Thimbles. +</H4> + +<P> +UNDER AND OVER STYLE—Ordinary type of Wire Rope. Serve the rope with +wire or tarred yarn to suit the circumference of the thimble, bend +round thimble and tie securely in place with temporary lashing till +splice is finished (as in Fig. 135). Open out the strands (as in Fig. +136), taking care to keep the loose end of the rope to the left hand +(see Fig. 136). Now insert marlin spike, lifting two strands (as shown +in Fig. 137), and tuck away towards the right hand (that is inserting +the strand at the point, and over the spike) strand No. 1, pulling the +strand well home. Next +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P80"></A>80}</SPAN> +insert marlin spike through next strand to +the left, only lifting one strand, the point of the spike coming out at +the same place as before. Tuck away strand No. 2 as before. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig135"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig135.jpg" ALT="Fig. 135. Fig. 136. Fig. 137. Fig. 138." BORDER="0" WIDTH="454" HEIGHT="730"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +The next tuck is the locking tuck. Insert marlin spike in next strand, +and, missing No. 3, tuck away strand No. 4 from the point of the spike +towards the right hand. Now, without taking out the spike, tuck away +strand No. 3 behind the spike towards the left hand (as shown in Fig. +138). Now insert spike in next strand, and tuck away strand No. 5 +behind and over the spike. No. 6 likewise. Pull all the loose strands +well down. +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig139"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig139.jpg" ALT="Fig. 139. Fig. 140." BORDER="0" WIDTH="442" HEIGHT="324"> +</CENTER> + +<P> +This completes the first series of tucks, and the splice will, if made +properly, be as Fig. 139. Now, starting with strand No. 1 and taking +each strand in rotation, tuck away under one strand and over the next +strand till all the strands have been tucked four times. If +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P81"></A>81}</SPAN> +it is +intended to taper the splice, the strands may at this point be split, +and half of the wires being tucked away as before, the other half cut +close to the splice. Fig. 127 [Transcriber's note: 140?] shows the +finished splice ready for serving over. +</P> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P82"></A>82}</SPAN> + +<P> +It will be noticed that this style of splice possesses a plaited +appearance, and the more strain applied to the rope, the tighter the +splice will grip, and there is no fear of the splice drawing owing to +rotation of the rope. +</P> + +<P> +LIVERPOOL OR SPIRAL STYLE (See Fig. 141).—Hawsers, or any ropes not +hanging free and liable to spin, may be spliced in this style, in which +the strands, instead of being interlocked together, are merely tucked +round and round one particular strand in the rope. Each loose strand +is of course tucked round a different strand in the rope. This is +sometimes called the "Liverpool" style (See Fig. 141). +</P> + +<A NAME="img-fig141"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-fig141.jpg" ALT="Fig. 141." BORDER="0" WIDTH="484" HEIGHT="591"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap10"></A> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P83"></A>83}</SPAN> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +TABLES +</H3> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +Showing Weights, etc., of Various Cordage. +</H4> + +<PRE> + KINDS. LENGTH. WEIGHT. + + Reefing twine, 24 skeins 8 to 9 lbs. + Sewing twine, 24 " 8 to 9 lbs. + Marline, 12 " 4 lbs. + Log lines, 25 fathoms 1 to 3 lbs. + Samson lines, 30 " 3/4 lb. + Samson lines, 30 " 1 lb. + Samson lines, 30 " 1 1/4 lbs. + Samson lines, 30 " 1 1/2 lbs. + Fishing lines, 25 " 1/4 lb. + Fishing lines, 25 " 1/2 lb. + Fishing lines, 25 " 3/4 lb. + Fishing lines, 25 " 1 lb. + Hambro'-lines (6 threads), 23 " 1 1/2 lbs. + Hambro'-lines (9 threads), 23 " 2 1/4 lbs. + Hambro'-lines (12 threads), 23 " 3 lbs. + Hand lead lines, 20 " 4 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 28 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 32 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 34 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 36 lbs. +</PRE> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P84"></A>84}</SPAN> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +STRENGTH OF ROPES. +</H4> + +<PRE> + Working Breaking Ordinary + Hemp. Iron. Steel. Load. Strain. Chain. + Cwts. Tons. + + 2 3/4 1 6 2 5/16 + 1 1/2 1 9 3 + 3 3/4 1 5/8 12 4 + 1 3/4 1 1/2 15 5 + 4 1/2 1 7/8 18 6 + 2 1 5/8 21 7 + 5 1/2 2 1/8 1 3/4 24 8 9/16 + 2 1/4 27 9 + 6 2 3/8 1 7/8 30 10 + 6 1/2 2 5/8 2 36 12 + 2 3/4 2 1/8 37 13 + 7 2 7/8 2 1/4 42 14 11/16 + 7 1/2 3 1/8 2 3/8 48 16 + 8 3 3/8 2 1/2 54 18 + 3 1/2 2 5/8 60 20 + 8 1/2 3 5/8 2 3/4 66 22 + 9 1/2 3 7/8 3 1/4 78 26 15/16 + 10 4 84 28 1 + 4 1/4 3 3/8 90 30 + 11 4 3/8 96 32 + 4 1/2 3 1/2 108 36 + 12 4 5/8 3 3/4 120 40 +</PRE> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P85"></A>85}</SPAN> + +<P CLASS="transnote"> +[Transcriber's note: in the source book, the following two tables were +a single table. It has been split into two due to space limitations.] +</P> + +<BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND BREAKING STRAINS. +</H4> + +<PRE> + Circum- + ference White Tarred + of Rope. Manila Rope. Hemp Rope. Coir Rope. + + Weight Weight Weight + for 120 Breaking for 120 Breaking for 120 Breaking + Fathoms. Strain. Fathoms. Strain. Fathoms. Strain. + + + + Ins. Ct. Qr. Lb. Tns. Cwts. Ct. Qr. Lb. Tns. Cwts. Ct. Qr. Lb. Tns. Cwts. + + 1 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 1 1/4 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 1 1/2 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 1 3/4 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 2 0 3 4 1 6 1 0 0 0 19 0 2 4 0 6 + 2 1/4 0 3 26 1 13 1 0 27 1 2 0 2 19 0 8 + 2 1/2 1 0 20 2 0 1 2 4 1 7 0 3 9 0 10 + 2 3/4 1 1 25 2 9 1 3 11 1 13 1 0 0 0 12 + + 3 1 3 2 2 18 2 0 22 2 2 1 0 22 0 14 + 3 1/4 2 0 7 3 8 2 2 10 2 7 1 1 17 0 16 + 3 1/2 2 1 12 3 19 3 0 2 2 17 1 2 15 0 19 + 3 3/4 2 2 21 4 11 3 1 21 3 7 1 3 14 1 2 + + 4 3 0 6 5 3 4 0 0 3 17 2 0 16 1 5 + 4 1/4 3 2 0 5 17 4 2 0 4 4 2 1 18 1 8 + 4 1/2 3 3 20 6 11 4 3 24 4 10 2 2 20 1 12 + + 5 4 2 24 8 2 6 0 15 5 10 3 1 8 2 0 + 5 1/2 5 3 16 9 16 7 1 15 6 10 4 0 0 2 8 + + 6 7 0 8 11 13 8 3 4 8 9 4 3 4 2 18 + 6 1/2 8 1 0 13 14 10 1 12 9 9 5 2 12 3 6 + + 7 9 1 20 15 18 12 0 8 11 9 6 2 4 3 18 + + 8 12 0 24 20 14 16 0 0 15 9 8 2 8 5 0 +</PRE> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<PRE> + Galvanised Galvanised + Circum- Galvanised Patent Steel Patent Steel + ference Rigging Flexible Extra Flexible + of Rope. Wire Rope. Wire Rope. Wire Rope. + + Weight Weight Weight + per Breaking per Breaking per Breaking + Fathom. Strain Fathom. Strain Fathom. Strain + + Lbs. Tons. Lbs. Tons. Lbs. Tons. + + 1 1.2 1 3/4 .76 1 3/4 .88 2 1/2 + 1 1/4 1.6 3 1.12 2 7/8 1.36 4 + 1 1/2 2.2 4 1.44 4 2.00 7 + 1 3/4 3.0 5 1/2 2.00 5 1/2 2.72 9 + + 2 3.8 7 2.40 7 3.48 11 + 2 1/4 4.6 9 3.12 9 1/2 4.44 13 1/2 + 2 1/2 5.8 11 4.00 12 1/2 5.44 17 1/2 + 2 3/4 6.8 13 4.64 15 1/2 6.72 22 1/2 + + 3 8.0 16 5.48 18 8.00 25 1/2 + 3 1/4 9.2 19 6.80 22 9.48 30 + 3 1/2 11.2 22 7.80 26 11.00 36 + 3 3/4 12.4 26 9.00 29 12.44 40 + + 4 14.4 30 10.00 33 14.24 44 + 4 1/4 17.0 34 11.20 35 16.00 49 + 4 1/2 18.4 38 12.80 39 18.00 50 + + 5 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 5 1/2 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 6 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 6 1/2 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 7 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 8 -- -- -- -- -- -- +</PRE> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<SPAN CLASS="pagenum">{<A NAME="P86"></A>86}</SPAN> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +Strength of Short Round-Linked Chain. +</H4> + +<PRE> + INCHES. MEAN BREAKING STRAIN. TEST. + Tons. + + 1 1/4 44 18.8 + 1 29 12.0 + 7/8 23 9.1 + 3/4 17 6.8 + 5/8 12 4.6 + 1/2 7 1/2 3.0 +</PRE> + +<BR><BR><BR><BR> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Knots, Bends, Splices, by J. Netherclift Jutsum + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KNOTS, BENDS, SPLICES *** + +***** This file should be named 30983-h.htm or 30983-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/9/8/30983/ + +Produced by Al Haines + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Netherclift Jutsum + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Knots, Bends, Splices + With tables of strengths of ropes, etc. and wire rigging + +Author: J. Netherclift Jutsum + +Release Date: January 16, 2010 [EBook #30983] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KNOTS, BENDS, SPLICES *** + + + + +Produced by Al Haines + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: Cover] + + + +KNOTS, + +BENDS, SPLICES, + + +WITH TABLES OF STRENGTHS OF ROPES, ETC., + +AND WIRE RIGGING. + + + +BY CAPTAIN JUTSUM, CARDIFF. + + +_Revised and Enlarged._ + + + +[COPYRIGHT. + + + +GLASGOW: + +The Nautical Press, + +JAMES BROWN & SON, + +NAUTICAL AND ENGINEERING PUBLISHERS. + +1914 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +The object of this little work is to present in a compact form and +systematic order a complete list of all the most useful and important +workings connected with Cordage, and a lucid explanation of their +various formations. + +The explanations of some of the elementary knots have been gone into +with what a practical seaman of even short experience may consider +almost unnecessary minuteness, but the aim throughout has been to +render the work of value to those who approach the subject for the +first time. + +To attain this end, diagrams are introduced at every stage, and if +followed closely step by step, in conjunction with the text referring +to them, the learner should have no difficulty in following their +construction. + +At the same time he must remember that proficiency in what is really +skilled workmanship, amounting almost to an art, can only be gained by +much practice and perseverance, and should gladly avail himself of any +advice or help he may be able to obtain from his more experienced +ship-mates. + +J. NETHERCLIFT JUTSUM. + + + + +{v} + +CONTENTS. + + PAGE + +The Construction of Ropes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 + +Common Whipping, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 + +Knots, etc., formed by a Single Rope's-end-- + Overhand Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 + Figure of 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 + Simple Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 + Running or Inside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 + Outside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 + Buntline Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 + Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 + Running Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 + Half Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 + Round Turn and Two Half Hitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 + Clove Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 + Rolling Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 + Timber Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 + Fisherman's Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 + Topsail Halliard Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 + Stun'sail Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 + Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 + Midshipman's Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 + Double Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 + +Knots, etc., made on the Bight of a Rope-- + A Bowline on the Bight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 + Marlinespike Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 + Sheepshank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 + Catspaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 + +Knots, Bends, etc., for Uniting Ropes-- + Reef Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 + Common or Sheet Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 + Single Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 + Double Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 + Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 + +Knots formed on Ropes by their own Strands-- + Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-33 + Double Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 + Crown Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 + Manrope Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 + Stopper Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 + Single Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 + Double Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 + Another form of Diamond Knot (Single) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 + Double Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 + Shroud Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 + Spritsail Sheet Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 + +Splices-- + Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 + Short Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 + Cut Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 + Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 + Grommet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 + +Wire Splicing-- + Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 + Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 + +Purchases-- + Single Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 + Double Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 + Runner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 + Gun Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 + Handy Billy or Jigger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 + Watch or Luff Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 + Double Luff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 + Three-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 + Four-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 + Single Spanish Burton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 + Double Spanish Burton (two forms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 + Spanish Windlass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 + +Miscellaneous Odds and Ends-- + Palm and Needle Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 + West Country Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 + American Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 + To Point a Rope End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 + Turk's Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58-60 + Mousing a Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 + Securing Lead Line to Lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 + Fitting a Flag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 + Cringles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61-64 + Lengthening the Rope of a Sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 + Jury Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65-66 + Sling for a Barrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67-68 + Chain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68-69 + Double Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69-70 + Twist or Plain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 + +Wire Rope Splicing, etc.-- + How to Handle Wire Rope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 + Set of Wire Rope Splicing Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 + Directions for Splicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76-78 + Splicing Thimbles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78-82 + +Tables showing the Respective Weights and Strengths of Various + Cordage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83-86 + + + + +{1} + +THE CONSTRUCTION OF ROPES. + +Rope, the term being used in its widest construction, is made from +almost every pliable material, but is generally composed of hemp, +manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron, or copper wire. + +For the present we will confine ourselves to those having their origin +in the vegetable kingdom, and more especially to those made from hemp +and manila. + +These are divided into three classes:-- + +(1). +A Hawser-laid Rope+, which is composed of three strands laid up +generally right-handed (that is, the direction taken by the strands in +forming the rope runs always from left to right) (Fig. 1.) + +(2). +A Shroud-laid Rope+, also laid up right-handed, but consisting +of four strands (Fig. 2) with a heart in the centre. + +(3). +A Cable-laid Rope+, which is composed of three right-handed +hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed, so that it may be said +to consist of nine strands (Fig. 3), or it may be formed by three +left-handed ropes laid up right-handed (Fig. 4). + +{2} + +[Illustration: Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3.] + +In Fig. 4 we show a more complete analysis of its construction (in this +case a right-handed cable-laid rope). + +[Illustration: Fig. 4.] + +{3} + +First we see the cable _e_ formed by the three ropes _d_, _f_, and _g_; +whilst the rope _g_ is dissected to show the strands forming it, _c_, +_h_, _j_; and in the strand _h_ we see _b_, the yarn composing the +strand, and _a_ a yarn teased out to show the original fibre. + +The end of a rope must always be secured in some way, or it is evident +from its construction that it will on the slightest usage become frayed +out. The commonest method is by placing on an ordinary whipping, which +is done as follows:--First lay the end of a length of twine along the +end of the rope, and then commencing at the part furthest from the +rope's end take a half dozen or more turns around both the rope and +twine end (Fig. 5). Then lay the twine in the form of a loop along the +rope and over the turns already taken, as in Fig. 6. To finish off +take that portion of the loop designated _a_, and continue taking turns +tightly round the rope and part _b_ of the twine until the loop is +nearly all used up; pull through the remainder snugly by part _c_, and +cut off short when, no end of twine will be visible as in Fig. 7. + +[Illustration: Fig. 5. Fig. 6. Fig. 7.] + +{4} + +Considering that we now have at our disposal a small sized rope with +the end whipped, we will at once proceed to the formation of the most +elementary knots and hitches, namely, those formed by a single rope's +end. + +Fig. 8 shows a common loop, by which most of the following knots, etc., +are commenced. Note exactly how the loop lies, and let us letter its +parts clearly for future reference. The part of rope extending from 1 +to 2 is known as the standing part which we will call _a_, the portion +included between 2 and 3 following round the loop by _y_ and _z_ is +termed the bight which we will call _b_, and from 3 to 4 is known as +the end _e_. + +[Illustration: Fig. 8.] + +Then starting in each case from the position shown in Fig. 8 we make +the following knots, etc:-- + +{5} + +(1). +An Overhand Knot+.--Place _e_ up through bight _b_, and draw +taut (Fig. 9). + +[Illustration: Fig. 9.] + +(2). +A Figure of Eight Knot+.--Back _e_ round behind _a_, bring over +part _z_ and dip down through bight _b_ and haul taut (Fig. 10). + +[Illustration: Fig. 10.] + +(3). +A Simple Clinch+ is formed by closing up the initial loop to +form a small ring and securing by a seizing--a small lashing at _d_ +(Fig. 11). + +{6} + +[Illustration: Fig. 11] + +One of the preceding knots is generally put in the end of running gear +to prevent it from coming unrove from the fair-leads or blocks. + +(4). +A Running or Inside Clinch+ is the foregoing, formed by the end +of a rope on its own standing part, and is often used for securing +buntlines to the foot of a sail (Fig. 12). + +[Illustration: Fig. 12.] + +{7} + +(5.) +An Outside Clinch+, as may be inferred from its name, is formed +in a similar manner, but the end _c_ is brought round on top, that is, +away from the bight (Fig. 13). It is used in cases where it is +essential that the end should not be in a position to jam, but always +ready for slipping at a moment's notice, as in securing cable ends, etc. + +[Illustration: Fig. 13.] + +(6). +A Buntline Hitch+ (an alternative method of securing buntlines +to a sail) is commenced as in making an outside clinch, but instead of +putting on a seizing, take a longer end _c_, pass it over _y_, bring up +through bight _b_, and tuck the end again over part _y_ and through the +last loop formed, so that the end _c_ lies close to the commencement of +part _z_ (Fig. 14). + +{8} + +[Illustration: Fig. 14.] + +(7). +A Bowline+.--Reverting to our original loop (Fig. 8), first +taking part _z_ in the right hand with _y_ in the left, throw a loop +over _c_, the end, as in Fig. 15. + +[Illustration: Fig. 15.] + +{9} + +Secondly, lead _c_ round behind part _a_ and pass it down through the +last made loop, as indicated by the dotted line, and haul taut as in +Fig. 16. + +[Illustration: Fig. 16.] + +(8). +A Running Bowline+.--Form a loop with a long end _c_ lying +underneath the standing part _a_ (Fig. 17). + +[Illustration: Fig. 17.] + +{10} + +Now bring end _c_ over part _y_ and with it form the bowline knot on +part _z_ just as in the previous case we formed it on its own part, +when it will appear as in Fig. 18. It is used whenever a running noose +is required. + +[Illustration: Fig. 18.] + +(9). The formation of a half hitch (Fig. 19), and two half hitches +(Fig. 20) is sufficiently indicated by those diagrams. + +[Illustration: Fig. 19.] + +{11} + +[Illustration: Fig. 20.] + +The commonest method of making a rope's end fast to a bollard, etc., is +by taking a round turn and two half hitches, and stopping the end back +for further security (Fig. 21). + +[Illustration: Fig. 21.] + +{12} + +(10). +A Clove Hitch+ is really a jamming form of two half hitches, +and is principally used when a small rope has to be secured to a larger +one and the end still kept free to pass along for further purposes, as +in securing ratlines to the shrouds. Its formation is shown in three +successive stages (Figs. 22, 23, 24). + +[Illustration: Fig. 22. Fig. 23. Fig. 24.] + +{13} + +(11). +A Rolling Hitch+ is commenced and finished like a clove hitch, +but as will be seen from the three diagrams (Figs. 25, 26, 27) +illustrating its construction, there is an intermediate round turn +between the first and last hitches. It is principally used for +securing the tail of a handy billy or snatch block to a larger rope, or +when hanging off a rope with a stopper. + +[Illustration: Fig. 25. Fig. 26. Fig. 27.] + +{14} + +Note that the round turn in (Fig. 26) is taken round both the standing +part _a_ and the larger rope. The great value of this hitch is its +non-liability to slip in the direction _B_ (Fig. 27). If, however, +owing to an extremely severe strain or other causes the hitch is +inclined to slip, the end _e_ should be backed round part _d_ of the +first rope, that is, twisted around it in long lays in the opposite +direction to that in which the hitch was formed, and the end secured by +a stop (Fig. 28). + +[Illustration: Fig. 28.] + +(12). A Timber Hitch is a useful way of securing a rope quickly to a +plank, but when there is to be a long and continuous strain, or when it +is required to keep the end of a piece of timber pointed steadily in +one direction, it should be supplemented with a half hitch (Figs. 29, +30). + +{15} + +[Illustration: Fig. 29. Fig. 30.] + +The timber hitch itself consists simply of a half hitch taken with a +rather long end, which is used up by twisting it back around its own +part of the hitch. In Fig. 29 the hitch is purposely left very loose +so that its formation may be the more easily seen. + +(13) +A Fisherman's Bend+ is formed by taking two round turns around +the object to which the rope is to be secured, and then backing the end +round in the form of a half hitch under both the standing part and +second round turn. The end may be further secured by taking a half +hitch {16} around its own part or by stopping it to it (Figs. 31, 32), +the dotted line showing the next direction the end _c_ must take. + +[Illustration: Fig. 31. Fig. 32.] + +It is used when securing a hauling line to the ring of the kedge, or +for bending a rope to a bucket, etc., and is often called a bucket +hitch. + +(14). +A Topsail Halyard Bend+.--This bend is never seen in deep water +ships, but is sometimes used on board yachts. It is commenced in a +similar manner to a fisherman's bend, but three round turns are first +taken around the spar, the end being backed around the standing part +_a_ and then led under all three turns as in Fig. 33, and then again +backed over the last two round turns and under the first, as shown in +Fig. 34. + +{17} + +[Illustration: Fig. 33. Fig. 34.] + +(14). +A Stun'sail Halyard Bend+ is simply a Fisherman's bend with the +end backed again over the last round turn and under the first (Fig. 35). + +[Illustration: Fig. 35.] + +(15). +A Blackwall Hitch+ is a quick way of temporarily securing a +rope to a hook. As will be seen from the illustration (Fig. 36) it +consists of a half hitch, the standing part _a_ as soon as it receives +the strain jamming {18} the end part _c_. It holds much more firmly +than would be imagined at first sight. By taking another round turn at +_b_ before passing the end _c_ under _a_, it will hold more securely. + +[Illustration: Fig. 36.] + +(17). +A Midshipman's Hitch+ is sometimes used instead of a Blackwall +hitch, and will hold better if the rope is at all greasy. It is made +by first forming a Blackwall hitch and then taking the underneath part +and placing it over the bill of the hook (Fig. 37). + +[Illustration: Fig. 37.] + +{19} + +(18). +A Double Blackwall Hitch+ is made by taking the bight of the +rope and placing it across the neck of the strop of the block, crossing +it behind, then placing the under part over the hook and crossing the +upper part on top of it (Fig. 38). It holds better than either of the +two preceding hitches. + +[Illustration: Fig. 38.] + + + + +{20} + +KNOTS, Etc., MADE ON THE BIGHT OF A ROPE, THAT IS, WITHOUT UTILISING +THE ENDS. + +(1). +A Bowline on the Bight+--Using both parts of the rope together, +commence as in making an ordinary bowline (Fig. 39). To finish off, +open out bight _c_, and taking it in the direction indicated by the +dotted line, pass the whole knot through it and haul taut, when it will +appear as in Fig. 40. + +[Illustration: Fig. 39. Fig. 40.] + +{21} + +(2). +A Marline-Spike Hitch+ is used for getting a purchase with a +marline-spike, capstan bar, etc., when putting on a seizing or lashing. +By Fig. 41 it will be seen to consist of the standing part picked +through a loop laid over it, so that the spike lies under the standing +part and over the sides of the loop. + +[Illustration: Fig. 41.] + +(3). +A Sheep Shank+ is used for shortening a rope. Gather up the +amount desired in the form of Fig. 42. + +[Illustration: Fig. 42.] + +Then with parts _a_ and _b_ form a half hitch round the two parts of +the bight as in Fig. 43. + +[Illustration: Fig. 43.] + +{22} + +To render it still more dependable, the bight _a_ and _b_ may be seized +or toggled to the standing parts as in Figs. 44 and 45. + +[Illustration: Fig. 44. Fig. 45.] + +(4). +A Catspaw+ is formed in a rope to make a temporary loop for +hooking on the block of a tackle. First throw back a bight as in Fig. +46. + +[Illustration: Fig. 46.] + +{23} + +Then taking hold of _a_ and _b_ in either hand twist them up as in Fig. +47; bring together the two eyes _a_ and _b_ and hook in the tackle. + +[Illustration: Fig. 47.] + + + + +{24} + +KNOTS, BENDS, AND HITCHES FOR UNITING ROPES. + +(1). +A Reef Knot+.--The simplest of all knots, and is always used +when a common tie is required. Its formation may be easily traced in +Figs. 48, 49, 50. Having constructed the knot as far as Fig. 48, be +sure part _a_ is kept in front of part _b_ as here shown, and the end +_c_ led in according to the direction of the dotted line. + +[Illustration: Fig. 48. Fig. 49. Fig. 50.] + +(2). +A Common Bend or Sheet Bend+.--In making a bend the ends of the +two ropes are not used simultaneously as in forming a reef knot, but an +eye or loop is first formed in the end of one of the ropes as in Fig. +51, and the other rope's end is then rove through it in various ways +according to the bend desired. + +{25} + +[Illustration: Fig. 51.] + +To form a Sheet Bend, pass the second rope's end underneath the eye at +point _a_ and bring up through the loop, then form with it a half hitch +round _c_ and _b_ (Fig. 52). + +[Illustration: Fig. 52.] + +It will hold still better and is less likely to jamb if the end _c_ is +passed round again as in Fig. 53. + +[Illustration: Fig. 53.] + +{26} + +(3). For bending two hauling lines together use a +Carrick Bend+. +First form with hawser No. 1 a loop as in Fig. 54. + +[Illustration: Fig. 54.] + +Pass the second hawser under the first at _a_, bring up through the eye +_b_, back it over the cross at _c_, and bring up again towards you +through the eye _b_, and then stop the ends of each hawser to their own +respective parts (Fig. 55). + +[Illustration: Fig. 55.] + +{27} + +(4). _A Double Carrick Bend_ is formed in precisely a similar manner, +but a complete round turn is taken around the cross of the first hawser +at _c_, and then led up again through the eye _b_ and finished off as +before (Fig. 56). + +[Illustration: Fig. 56.] + +(5). +A Diamond Knot+ formed by the two ends of a rope is really a +fancy knot. It is often made with Hambro' line in forming lanyards for +marline-spikes, knives, etc. It is a pretty knot and very easily made. + +First lay one of the cords in a loop shaped as in Fig. 57. + +{28} + +Notice carefully how this loop is lettered, and then, taking up the +second cord, lay it under the loop at _a_, straight along also under +the loop at _b_, now bring it over the first cord at _c_ and under it +at _d_ and over it at _e_, then dip it under its own part now lying +between _a_ and _b_, and lead it over the first cord at _f_. + +[Illustration: Fig. 57.] + +The knot, still in an unfinished state, will now appear as in Fig. 58. + +[Illustration: Fig. 58.] + +{29} + +Now lead the ends in the direction indicated by the dotted lines +(taking care beforehand that you have them sufficiently long for the +purpose), and bring them both up through the opening _a_. Bring the +two standing parts _b_ and _c_ together, and gradually render all parts +in turn to work up the knot as tight as possible, when it will appear +as in Fig. 59. + +[Illustration: Fig. 59.] + + + + +{30} + +KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY THEIR OWN STRANDS. + +Although our next series of knots are generally known as "fancy knots" +they are by no means merely ornamental, many of them playing important +parts in the standing rigging of a ship. + +(1). +To Form a Wall Knot+.--First unlay the rope so that the strands +appear as in Fig. 60. + +[Illustration: Fig. 60.] + +{31} + +Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right lead strand _a_ in +the direction indicated by the dotted line, viz., under strand _b_ and +up between strands _b_ and _c_ (Fig. 61). + +[Illustration: Fig. 61.] + +Then with strand _b_ form a similar loop, enclosing strands _a_ and +_c_, and bringing the end of strand _b_ up between _a_ and _d_ (Fig. +62). + +[Illustration: Fig. 62.] + +{32} + +Now with strand _c_ form a similar loop, enclosing strands _b_ and _a_ +by leading the end of strand _c_ up through the loop _e_ in strand _a_ +(Fig. 63). + +[Illustration: Fig. 63.] + +Finally, work all parts well taut, whip the ends of the strands +together and cut off short (Fig. 64). + +[Illustration: Fig. 64.] + +{33} + +(2). +A Double Wall Knot+ is formed by allowing each strand to again +follow its lead as given in a single wall knot, opening out the first +loops again with a pricker sufficiently for the purpose. The three +strands are as before brought up in the centre and cut off short after +whipping them together. This knot is also known as a stopper knot. + +(3). +A Crown Knot+ is formed by interlacing the strands in a similar +manner to a wall knot, but the strands are successively led _over_ each +other instead of under. Its construction will be easily followed in +Fig. 65. + +[Illustration: Fig. 65.] + +Double crowning is done by following round each strand again alongside +its first lead. + + +Our next two knots are but combinations of the wall and crown. + +{34} + +(4). +A Manrope Knot+ is made by first forming a wall and then +crowning it (Fig. 66.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 66.] + +Then follow round the wall again, and lastly, follow round the crown, +when the finished knot will appear as in Fig. 67. + +[Illustration: Fig. 67.] + +A knot formed by making a crown first and then a wall, and afterwards +following round the crown and wall again is another form of the Stopper +Knot. It is very similar in appearance when finished to a Manrope Knot. + +{35} + +(5). +A Single Matthew Walker+.--To make this knot commence similarly +to a wall, but pass the first strand _a_ under both _b_ and _c_, as in +Fig. 68. + +[Illustration: Fig. 68.] + +Then pass _b_ under both strands _c_ and _a_, and bring up through the +loop first formed by _a_ (Fig. 69). + +[Illustration: Fig. 69.] + +{36} + +Similarly pass _c_ under _a_ and _b_, and bring up through the loop +first formed by _b_ (Fig. 70). + +[Illustration: Fig. 70.] + +(6). +A Double Matthew Walker+ will be easily learnt if you notice the +difference between a single Matthew Walker and a Wall Knot. + +In the Wall Knot you will have noticed that each strand is simply +interlaced with the strand immediately on its right coming up through +the loop formed by this second strand. + +In the single Matthew Walker each strand interlaces the two strands to +its right, coming up through the loop of the third strand. + +{37} + +Another evolution in the same order brings us to the double Matthew +Walker. It is formed, as will be seen by carefully following diagram +71, by making each strand contain in its own loop, the other two +strands, and _its own_ end, that is, each strand leads up through its +own bight after interlacing the other two. + +[Illustration: Fig. 71. Fig. 72.] + +When worked taut and finished off, it will appear as in Fig. 72. + +{38} + +(7). +A Single Diamond Knot+.--This is another method of forming the +knot shown in Fig. 59, which in that case was formed by the two ends of +the same rope. + +To form it on a rope by its own strands, unlay the rope to the place +where it is desired to form the knot, and as after the knot is made the +strands will have to be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay +in the strands as much as possible. Now bring each of the three +strands down alongside the standing part of the rope, thus forming +three bights, and hold them thus with the left hand. Take the first +strand _a_ (Fig. 73) and, putting it over the next, _b_, bring it up +through the bight of the third strand _c_. + +[Illustration: Fig. 73.] + +{39} + +Take the end of the second strand over the third and up the bight of +the first. The last strand is brought through over the first and up +through the bight of the second. Haul taut, and lay the rope up again. +Fig. 74 shows the loops in their places with the ends through them +before they are hauled taut. Fig. 75 gives the knot finished. + +[Illustration: Fig. 74. Fig. 75.] + +For a double diamond we first make a single diamond, the ends are then +made to follow the lead of the single knot through two single bights, +the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last strand passes through +two double bights. The ends are then hauled taut and laid up as before +(Fig. 76). + +{40} + +[Illustration: Fig. 76.] + +(8). +A Shroud Knot+ is a method of joining two ropes. Each is unlaid +the necessary length, and they are then brought close together. A Wall +Knot is formed on each rope with the strands of the other (Fig. 77). + +The completed knot is shown in Fig. 78, but to make a neat job the ends +should be marled and served as in Fig. 79. + +[Illustration: Fig. 77. Fig. 78. Fig. 79.] + +{41} + +(9). +A Spritsail Sheet Knot+.--Unlay both ends of the rope and bring +the two standing parts of the rope together as in Fig. 80. + +[Illustration: Fig. 80.] + +Grasping both parts of the rope at _a_, with the six strands form a +Wall Knot, that is, by passing 1 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 under +5, 5 under 6, and 6 under the loop formed by 1. + +This would appear too confusing if shown in a diagram, but the knot is +very easily made in practice. + +Now lay any opposite two of the strands across the top {42} in an +_opposite direction_, and crown by passing the other four, each in +turn, alternately over and under these two. + +Each of the six strands will then come out leading in a downward +direction alongside the strands forming the first walling. + +Now follow round the walling again, when the strands will come through +in an upward direction, each alongside a strand of the first crowning. + +Follow through the crowning once more, and cut off the ends short, when +a handsome and useful Stopper Knot will result, as shown in Fig. 81. + +[Illustration: Fig. 81.] + + + + +{43} + +SPLICES. + +(1). +An Eye Splice+ is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a +short distance, and then, after closing up the end, to form an eye of +the desired size. Lay the three strands upon the standing part, now +tuck the middle strand through the strand of the standing part of the +rope next to it (against the lay of the rope), then pass the strand on +the left over the strand under which No. 1 strand is tucked, and tuck +it under the next, and lastly, put the remaining strand through the +third strand on the other side of the rope (Fig. 82.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 82.] + +{44} + +Now tuck each strand again alternately over a strand and under a strand +of the rope, and then taper off by halving the strands before tucking +the third time, and again halve them before the fourth tuck. + +If the strands are tucked with the lay of the rope it is termed a +Sailmaker's Splice. + +(2). +A Short Splice+ is used to join two ropes when it is not +required to pass through a block. Unlay the two ropes the required +distance, and clutch them together as in Fig. 83, that is, so that the +strands of one rope go alternately between the strands of the other. + +[Illustration: Fig. 83.] + +Then tuck the strands of rope a into the rope _b_ in a similar manner +to that described in an eye splice, and similarly tuck the strands of +_b_ into _a_ (Figs. 84 and 85). + +[Illustration: Fig. 84. Fig. 85.] + +{45} + +(3). +A Cut Splice+ is made by laying two ropes in the position +indicated in Fig. 86. + +[Illustration: Fig. 86.] + +Leaving the ropes between _a a_ to form an oblong loop, tuck the +strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye splice. Splices +are often wormed, parcelled, and served. Fig. 87 shows the cut splice +after this treatment. + +A log-line splice is a cut splice, but instead of allowing the loop to +appear, the two lines are twisted together. + +[Illustration: Fig. 87.] + +(4). +A Long Splice+ is one of the most useful of splices, as it +permits the rope to run through a block just the same as an unspliced +rope. + +Unlay the ends of two ropes to a distance about four times the length +used in a short splice, and then clutch them together as if about to +commence a short splice. Now unlay one strand for a considerable +distance and fill {46} up the gap thus caused by twisting in the strand +opposite to it of the other rope. Then do the same with two more +strands. Let the remaining two strands stay as they were first placed. +The ropes will now appear as in Fig. 88. + +[Illustration: Fig. 88.] + +To finish off, tuck the ends as in a short splice, but _with_ the lay +of the rope, that is, so that the tuck will continually take place +around the same strand, and taper off gradually by reducing the yarns +in the strand. + +(5). +To Make a Grommet+, cut a strand about three and a half times +the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and keep +the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in the form of a ring +(Fig. 89), and then pass the ends round and round in their original lay +until all the intervals are filled up (Fig. 90), and then finish off +the two ends as in a long splice (Fig. 91). + +[Illustration: Fig. 89. Fig. 90. Fig. 91.] + + + + +{47} + +WIRE SPLICING. + +In splicing wire, great care should be taken to prevent kinks getting +in the rope or strands. + +With steel wire, always before working it, put a stop on at the place +to which you intend to unlay, and also put a good whipping of twine at +the end of each strand. + +Steel wire is six-stranded right-handed, and has a heart of hemp. +Flexible wire has a heart of hemp in each strand. + +Crucible wire is made in the same manner, except that the strands are +wire throughout. + +Crucible wire is used for standing rigging and flexible wire for +purchases, etc. + +In splicing wire all tucks are made with the lay of the rope. + +In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a +convenient position so that when standing up the eye will be at about +the level of the chest of the person working. + +A long tapering steel marline-spike is required, and after placing it +under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the +slack of the strand drawn through. + +{48} + +There are several methods in vogue for tucking the strand, but the +following is as good as any:--Tuck the first strand under two strands +and all the rest under one strand respectively. Tuck whole again, and +this time each strand under one strand, then halve the strands and tuck +again. + +To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not +been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the +strands never take a short nip but take long lays. + +In unlaying for a long splice, always unlay two strands simultaneously, +to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay +about 9 ft. of each end. + +Proceed as in rope splicing, and after the three pairs of strands are +in their places, single them, and continue to unlay and lay-in until +the six meeting places of the strands are equi-distant. + +To finish off the ends properly can only be learnt by observation and +actual practice. By using two marline-spikes, the hempen heart is +removed and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it +occupied, making a very neat job when finished. + +Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served with +Hambro' line. + + + + +{49} + +PURCHASES. + +(1) +Single Whip+.--A rope rove through a single block fixed in any +position. No power is gained (Fig. 92). + +[Illustration: Fig. 92.] + +(2). +Double Whip+.--A rope rove through two single blocks--upper +block a tail block, lower one a movable hook block. Power +gained--double (Fig. 93). + +[Illustration: Fig. 93.] + +{50} + +(3). +A Runner+ adds an additional power to the purchase it is used +with (Fig. 94). + +[Illustration: Fig. 94.] + +(4). +Gun Tackle+.--single blocks. Power gained--twice or thrice, +according to which is the movable block (Fig. 95). + +[Illustration: Fig. 95.] + +{51} + +(5). +Handy Billy or Jigger+.--A small tackle for general use; a +double block with a tail and single block with hook (Fig. 96). + +[Illustration: Fig. 96.] + +(6). +Watch Tackle or Luff Tackle+.--Double hook block and single hook +block (Fig. 97). + +[Illustration: Fig. 97.] + +{52} + +(7). +Double Luff+.--Two double blocks (Fig. 98). + +[Illustration: Fig. 98.] + +(8). +Three-Fold Purchase+.--Two three-fold blocks. Power gained--six +or seven times (Fig. 99). + +[Illustration: Fig. 99.] + +{53} + +(9). +Four-Fold Purchase+.--Two four-fold blocks. Power gained--eight +or nine times (Fig. 100). + +[Illustration: Fig. 100.] + +(10). +A Single Spanish Burton+.--Two single blocks and a hook. Power +gained--three times (Fig. 101). + +[Illustration: Fig. 101.] + +{54} + +[Illustration: Fig. 102.] + +(11). +A Double Spanish Burton+.--There are two forms of this +purchase--Fig. 102, by using three single blocks; Fig. 103, by using +one double block and two single blocks. Power gained--five times. + +[Illustration: Fig. 103.] + +{55} + +(12). +A Spanish Windlass+.--To rig a Spanish Windlass take a good +strand well greased in the centre. Place the strand over the two parts +of the rope that are to be hove together, and bringing the ends of the +strand up again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the ends of +the strand and lay them up with their own parts so as to form two eyes. +Take a round turn with this round the bolt, put a marline-spike through +each eye and heave around (Fig. 104). + +[Illustration: Fig. 104.] + + + + +{56} + +MISCELLANEOUS ODDS AND ENDS. + +(1). +A Palm and Needle Whipping+ is a more permanent way of securing +a rope's end from fraying than the common whipping put on by hand. +First, place the needle under one of the strands and draw nearly the +whole length of twine through. Take a considerable number of turns +round the rope with the twine, drawing each well taut in turn, and +finish up by following round with the needle between each strand, +forming a series of frappings, and cut off the end of the twine short +(Fig. 105). + +[Illustration: Fig. 105.] + +(2). +A West Country Whipping+ is formed by middling the twine around +the part of the rope to be marked and half knotting it at every half +turn, so that each half knot will be on opposite sides. When a +sufficient number of turns are passed, finish it off with a reef knot. + +{57} + +(3). +An American Whipping+ is sometimes used for the ends of hawsers. +It is commenced in the same way as a common whipping, but finished off +by having both ends out in the middle of the whipping and forming a +reef knot. This is done by leaving the first end out when you commence +to pass the turns on the bight over the last end. + +(4). +To Point a Rope End+.--First put a stop on at twice and a half +the circumference of the rope from the end, which will leave about the +length for pointing, unlay the rope to the stop and then unlay the +strands. Split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle out of +each yarn. (A nettle is made by laying up the yarns with the finger +and thumb left-handed.) When the nettles are made stop them back on +the standing part of the rope; then form the point with the rest of the +yarns by scraping them down to a proper size with a knife, and marl +them down together with twine; divide the nettles, taking every other +one up and every other one down. Pass three turns with a piece of +twine--which is called the warp--very taut round the part where the +nettles separate, taking a hitch with the last turn. Continue to +repeat this process by placing every alternate nettle up and down, +passing the warp or "filling," taking a hitch each time, until the {58} +point is to its required length. It is generally finished off by +working a small Flemish eye in the end (Figs. 106 and 107). + +[Illustration: Fig. 106. Fig. 107.] + +(5). +Turk's Head+.--The Turk's Head is one of the most common of the +ornamental knots used at sea, and is formed from an ordinary clove +hitch (Fig. 108) made sufficiently slack to allow for the working of +the other parts. + +[Illustration: Fig. 108.] + +Having formed the clove hitch, pass _b_ over _c_ and tuck _a_ under and +up through the bight formed by _c_ as in Fig. 109. It will then be +found that there is another twist in {60} the parts _b_ and _c_, tuck +_a_ under _e_ and over _b_. Then go on as in Fig. 109, and put _b_ +over _c_ again and tuck _a_ as before. The number of crossings +required depends principally on the size of the material on which the +Turk's Head is formed. To finish off as in Fig. 110, the part _a_ is +made to follow _d_ (Fig 108) round for three times. + +[Illustration: Fig. 109.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 110.] + +(6). +Mousing a Hook+.--All hooks in running gear should be moused as +in Fig. 111. + +[Illustration: Fig. 111.] + +{61} + +(7). +Securing Lead Line to Lead+.--The lead is fitted with a good +wire grommet parcelled over. The lead line should have a long eye +spliced in it, and is secured by passing the eye through the grommet +and over the lead (Fig. 112). + +[Illustration: Fig. 112.] + +(8). +Fitting a Flag+.--A toggle should be secured at the head of the +hoist by an eye splice; a length of rope equal to the width of the flag +left below the hoist, as this is the distance the flags should be +apart, and then a running eye splice made so as to be rapidly attached +to the next flag. + +(9). +To Stick a Cringle+.--First unlay a single strand from {62} the +size of rope your cringle is required to be, whip both ends, reeve the +strand through the left hand eyelet hole in the sail, having one end +longer than the other--nearly a third--keeping the roping of the sail +towards you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the +parts of the strand together, counting three lays; commence with the +short end of the strand towards you, then reeve the long strand from +you through the right hand eyelet hole, taking it through the cringle, +and it will be in the right position to lay up in the vacant space left +in the cringle; when done, the one end will hang down inside the right +hand eyelet hole and the other end outside the left hand one; the ends +are then hitched by being rove through their respective eyelet holes +and passed over the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch +being towards you and the other from you; then take the ends down under +one strand on the right and two on the left of cringle nearest to it; +then tuck the ends under the first two strands nearest the hitch, +heaving them well in place; the cringle is then fidded out, and the +thimble is put in on the fore part of the sail. The ends of the strand +are then tucked back, left-handed, under one strand, again under two, +right-handed, as in the first place, heaving them taut in place {63} at +each tuck, the ends are then whipped with two of their own yarns and +cut off. If a large cringle is needed, count an extra number of +lays--5, 7, etc., always an odd number. + +(10). +To Finish a Cringle off on the Crown+.--Commence as before, but +after laying up the strand, instead of forming a hitch with each end, +the ends are rove through their respective eyelet holes and tucked back +under two strands of the cringles and again laid up as far as the +crown, forming a four-stranded cringle, and finished off by tucking the +ends under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle +and cut close off. + +[Illustration: Fig. 113. Fig. 114.] + +{64} + +In working a cringle in a piece of rope the only difference is there +are no eyelet holes, therefore the strand is tucked under two strands +of the rope it is to be worked in. + +(11). +To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand+.--Say it is +necessary to give a sail one cloth more spread, it would then be +necessary to lengthen the head and foot rope. Supposing the width of +cloth to be 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 in. After ripping the +rope off four cloths, first of all cut the strand at the distance 2 ft. +6 in. from each other as in Fig. 115. + +[Illustration: Fig. 115.] + +Cut one of the strands at _a_ and unlay it to _c_, then cut one of the +strands remaining at _c_ and unlay it to _b_, laying the strand _a_ up +again as far as _b_; then cut the only remaining strand at _b_, which +will be the centre, when your rope will be in two parts. By following +the plan the wrong strand cannot possibly be cut. The rope will now +appear as in Fig. 116. + +[Illustration: Fig. 116.] + +{65} + +Now marry the long end _a_ to the end _b_, then lay up the long strand +_c_ in the lays of the strand _a_, and marry it to the other strand _b_ +as in Fig. 117. + +[Illustration: Fig. 117.] + +Take a strand about 10 ft. in length of the same size rope and marry +one end to the short strand _a_ as shown above, then fill up the space +left from _a_ to _c_ by laying in the new strand, and marry the other +end to the short strand _c_. You will then have four splices to finish +off as ordinary long splices (Fig. 118). + +[Illustration: Fig. 118.] + +(11). +Jury Knot+. The jury knot is useful when a jury mast has to be +rigged, as the loops form a means of attaching the necessary supports +to the mast. The centre _k_ (Fig. 120) is slipped over the masthead, +and the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds it in its +position on the mast. + +{66} + +It is formed by three ordinary half-hitches, each placed behind the +other and with the loop of the last laid over the first, as in Fig. 119. + +[Illustration: Fig. 119.] + +Having done this, keep the hitches together with the right hand, and +with the left take _a_ and dip it under _b_ and pull _c_ through _a_ +and _b_. Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place _f_ over +_e_, and pull _d_ between _e_ and _f_. Take _g_ in the teeth and pull +on the parts _g_, _f_, and _a_. The ends _h_ and _z_ may be either +knotted or spliced. + +{67} + +[Illustration: Fig. 120.] + +(13). +Sling for a Barrel+.--The following method of slinging a barrel +is adopted when it is desired to hoist it up end on. + +[Illustration: Fig. 121.] + +Pass the bight _a_ of the rope under the lower end of the barrel and +bring the two parts up, and with them {68} form an overhand knot _b_, +which is opened out so as to fit over the end of the barrel. + +The bight _a_ is placed under the cask, and the overhand knot _b_ is +slipped over the head, and the two ends are brought up and knotted as +in Fig. 122. + +[Illustration: Fig. 122.] + +(14). +Chain Knot+.--An easy and ornamental way of shortening a rope +is that known as the chain knot. + +To form it proceed as though you are going to make an ordinary overhand +knot, but instead of working with both ends use the end and a bight as +in Fig. 123. + +{69} + +This will form the loop _a_, Fig. 123, through which pass a bight of +_b_ and continue in this way until all the slack rope is used up, and +it can be finished off by running the end through the last loop (Fig. +124). + +[Illustration: Fig. 123. Fig. 124.] + +(15). +Double Chain+.--The Double Chain is a little more intricate +than the chain knot, and is formed by taking a turn round the standing +part and thus forming a loop {70} _c_, through which the end _a_ is +passed, thus forming the loop _b_ (Fig. 125). + +[Illustration: Fig. 125.] + +The end _a_ is brought back and dipped down through _b_ and this is +continued as long as required, finishing off by running the end through +the last bight and hauling it taut (Fig. 126). + +[Illustration: Fig. 126.] + +{71} + +(16). +Twist Or Plait Knot+.--Another method of shortening a small +handy rope is known as the twist or plait knot. + +Arrange the rope in such a manner that the amount to be taken up forms +a bight as in Fig. 127. + +[Illustration: Fig. 127. Fig. 128.] + +Then by taking _a_ over _b_ and _c_ over _b_, and so on, taking the +outside one on each side alternately over the middle one, the plait is +formed. To keep the plait clear, the end has to be continually dipped +through the first bight made (Fig. 128). + + + + +{72} + +HOW TO HANDLE WIRE ROPE, ETC. + ++The following article by a Wire Specialist will be read with +interest+:-- + +When uncoiling Wire Rope it is important that no kinks are allowed to +form, as once a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out, and +the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turn-table should be +employed (an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an excellent +one); the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without kinks. +(See Fig. 129.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 129. Fig. 130.] + +If a turn-table is not available the rope may be rolled along the +ground as shown in Fig. 130. + +{73} + +In no case must the rope be laid on the ground and the end taken over +(as in Fig. 131), or kinks will result, and the rope will be completely +spoiled. + +[Illustration: Fig. 131.] + +The life of Wire Rope depends principally upon the diameter of drums, +sheaves, and pulleys; and too much importance cannot be given to the +size of the latter. Wherever possible the size of the pulleys should +be not less than 700 times the diameter of the largest wire in the +rope, and never less than 300 times. The diameters of drums, sheaves, +and pulleys should increase with the working load when the factor of +safety is less than 5 to 1. + +The load should not be lifted with a jerk, as the strain may equal +three or four times the proper load, and a sound rope may easily be +broken. + +Examine ropes frequently. A new rope is cheaper than the risk of +killing or maiming employees. + +{74} + +One-fifth of the ultimate strength of the rope should be considered a +fair working load. + +In shafts and elevators where human life is constantly raised and +lowered, the working load should not be more than one-tenth of the +ultimate breaking strength of the rope. + +To increase the amount of work done, it is better to increase the +working load than the speed of the rope. Experience has shown that the +wear of the rope increases with the speed. + +Wire Rope should be greased when running or idle. Rust destroys as +effectively as hard work. + +Galvanized Wire Rope should never be used for running rope. One day's +use will wear off the coating of zinc, and the rope will soon begin to +rust. + +Great care should be taken that the grooves of drums and sheaves are +perfectly smooth, ample in diameter, and conformed to the surface of +the rope. They should also be in perfect line with the rope, so that +the latter may not chafe on the sides of the grooves. + + ++Set of Wire Rope Splicing Tools+. + +To produce the best work, the splicer should have at his disposal a set +of tools similar to those in the accompanying illustration. + +The Tool set consists of--1 Tucker for Small Strands Splicing; 1 Marlin +Spike, Round; 1 Marlin Spike, Flatted; 1 Pair Special Steel Wire +Cutters; 1 Serving Mallet. All of best Cast Steel, Hand Forged. + +{75} + +[Illustration: Fig 132.] + +These Sets may be had at prices varying from 15/6 to 46/-. + +{76} + ++Directions for Splicing+. + +TO MAKE AN ENDLESS SPLICE.--Clamps are applied to the rope sufficiently +far back from the ends to allow plenty of room for the splice, and the +men to operate in. The two ends are then drawn together by means of +blocks and tackle, until they overlap each other for a space of twenty +to thirty feet, according to the size of the rope. At a point from +each end midway of the lap, the rope must be bound with a good serving +of No. 18 or No. 20 annealed wire. The serving at the extreme ends is +then cut off, the strands untwisted to the new serving, and the hemp +cores also cut off so as to abut when the open bunches of strands are +brought together, and the opposite strands interlaced regularly with +each other, presenting the appearance as near as can be shown (Fig. +133). + +[Illustration: Fig. 133.] + +After these are all correctly interlaced, pull the ropes tightly +together, so that the cores abut against one another. Next take {77} +strand No. 1, and as it is being unlaid, follow it up with strand A, +which must be laid into its place tightly until within five feet from +the end. Strand No. 1 is then cut off, leaving it five feet long, same +length as A strand. The remaining strands are treated the same way, +three alternate strands being laid towards the right hand and three to +the left. The strands being now all laid in their places, the ends are +cut off, as with the first strands, to five feet. The appearance of +splice will now be the same as in Fig. 134. + +[Illustration: Fig. 134.] + +The next thing is to tuck in the ends, and this is where the skill +comes in. Before doing this, _care should be observed to see that the +spliced portion of the rope is perfectly limp, or free of tension, +otherwise this operation cannot be well performed_. The core is then +cut and pulled out on the side corresponding with the end to be tucked +in for a distance equal to the length of the end which is to replace +it. It is desirable, especially if the rope is composed of small +wires, to tie the ends of the strands with soft twine or threads of +jute yarn in order to keep the wires well bunched. A marlin spike is +then passed over +1+ and under two of the strands, when the core is cut +off at the proper point, and by moving the spike along the rope +spirally with the strands, the loose end +1+ is passed into the core +space and the spike withdrawn. {78} Then pull out the core on the +other side, pass the marlin spike over A and under two strands as +before, cut off the core, and tuck in the end A in precisely the same +manner, after which the rope is twisted back again as tightly as +possible, and the clamps or other appliances that may be used are +removed to the next pair of projecting ends. Any slight inequality in +the symmetrical shape of the rope may be taken out by pounding with a +wooden mallet. Some prefer to tuck in first all the ends projecting in +one direction, and then the ends projecting the other way; it is +immaterial in what order they are tucked in. + +If these directions are implicitly followed, the spliced portion of the +rope will be of uniform diameter with other portions, and will present +a smooth and even appearance throughout. After running a day or two, +the locality of the splice cannot be readily detected, and the rope +will be quite as strong in this portion as any other. + + ++Splicing Thimbles+. + +UNDER AND OVER STYLE--Ordinary type of Wire Rope. Serve the rope with +wire or tarred yarn to suit the circumference of the thimble, bend +round thimble and tie securely in place with temporary lashing till +splice is finished (as in Fig. 135). Open out the strands (as in Fig. +136), taking care to keep the loose end of the rope to the left hand +(see Fig. 136). Now insert marlin spike, lifting two strands (as shown +in Fig. 137), and tuck away towards the right hand (that is inserting +the strand at the point, and over the spike) strand No. 1, pulling the +strand well home. Next {80} insert marlin spike through next strand to +the left, only lifting one strand, the point of the spike coming out at +the same place as before. Tuck away strand No. 2 as before. + +[Illustration: Fig. 135. Fig. 136. Fig. 137. Fig. 138.] + +The next tuck is the locking tuck. Insert marlin spike in next strand, +and, missing No. 3, tuck away strand No. 4 from the point of the spike +towards the right hand. Now, without taking out the spike, tuck away +strand No. 3 behind the spike towards the left hand (as shown in Fig. +138). Now insert spike in next strand, and tuck away strand No. 5 +behind and over the spike. No. 6 likewise. Pull all the loose strands +well down. + +[Illustration: Fig. 139. Fig. 140.] + +This completes the first series of tucks, and the splice will, if made +properly, be as Fig. 139. Now, starting with strand No. 1 and taking +each strand in rotation, tuck away under one strand and over the next +strand till all the strands have been tucked four times. If {81} it is +intended to taper the splice, the strands may at this point be split, +and half of the wires being tucked away as before, the other half cut +close to the splice. Fig. 127 [Transcriber's note: 140?] shows the +finished splice ready for serving over. + +[Illustration: Fig. 141.] + +{82} + +It will be noticed that this style of splice possesses a plaited +appearance, and the more strain applied to the rope, the tighter the +splice will grip, and there is no fear of the splice drawing owing to +rotation of the rope. + +LIVERPOOL OR SPIRAL STYLE (See Fig. 141).--Hawsers, or any ropes not +hanging free and liable to spin, may be spliced in this style, in which +the strands, instead of being interlocked together, are merely tucked +round and round one particular strand in the rope. Each loose strand +is of course tucked round a different strand in the rope. This is +sometimes called the "Liverpool" style (See Fig. 141). + +[Illustration: Fig. 141.] + + + + +{83} + +TABLES + ++Showing Weights, etc., of Various Cordage+. + + KINDS. LENGTH. WEIGHT. + + Reefing twine, 24 skeins 8 to 9 lbs. + Sewing twine, 24 " 8 to 9 lbs. + Marline, 12 " 4 lbs. + Log lines, 25 fathoms 1 to 3 lbs. + Samson lines, 30 " 3/4 lb. + Samson lines, 30 " 1 lb. + Samson lines, 30 " 1 1/4 lbs. + Samson lines, 30 " 1 1/2 lbs. + Fishing lines, 25 " 1/4 lb. + Fishing lines, 25 " 1/2 lb. + Fishing lines, 25 " 3/4 lb. + Fishing lines, 25 " 1 lb. + Hambro'-lines (6 threads), 23 " 1 1/2 lbs. + Hambro'-lines (9 threads), 23 " 2 1/4 lbs. + Hambro'-lines (12 threads), 23 " 3 lbs. + Hand lead lines, 20 " 4 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 28 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 32 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 34 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 36 lbs. + + + + +{84} + +STRENGTH OF ROPES. + + + Working Breaking Ordinary + Hemp. Iron. Steel. Load. Strain. Chain. + Cwts. Tons. + + 2 3/4 1 6 2 5/16 + 1 1/2 1 9 3 + 3 3/4 1 5/8 12 4 + 1 3/4 1 1/2 15 5 + 4 1/2 1 7/8 18 6 + 2 1 5/8 21 7 + 5 1/2 2 1/8 1 3/4 24 8 9/16 + 2 1/4 27 9 + 6 2 3/8 1 7/8 30 10 + 6 1/2 2 5/8 2 36 12 + 2 3/4 2 1/8 37 13 + 7 2 7/8 2 1/4 42 14 11/16 + 7 1/2 3 1/8 2 3/8 48 16 + 8 3 3/8 2 1/2 54 18 + 3 1/2 2 5/8 60 20 + 8 1/2 3 5/8 2 3/4 66 22 + 9 1/2 3 7/8 3 1/4 78 26 15/16 + 10 4 84 28 1 + 4 1/4 3 3/8 90 30 + 11 4 3/8 96 32 + 4 1/2 3 1/2 108 36 + 12 4 5/8 3 3/4 120 40 + + + + +{85} + +[Transcriber's note: in the source book, the following two tables were +a single table. It has been split into two due to space limitations.] + + + ++TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND BREAKING STRAINS+. + + Circum- + ference White Tarred + of Rope. Manila Rope. Hemp Rope. Coir Rope. + + Weight Weight Weight + for 120 Breaking for 120 Breaking for 120 Breaking + Fathoms. Strain. Fathoms. Strain. Fathoms. Strain. + + + + Ins. Ct. Qr. Lb. Tns. Cwts. Ct. Qr. Lb. Tns. Cwts. Ct. Qr. Lb. Tns. Cwts. + + 1 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 1 1/4 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 1 1/2 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 1 3/4 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 2 0 3 4 1 6 1 0 0 0 19 0 2 4 0 6 + 2 1/4 0 3 26 1 13 1 0 27 1 2 0 2 19 0 8 + 2 1/2 1 0 20 2 0 1 2 4 1 7 0 3 9 0 10 + 2 3/4 1 1 25 2 9 1 3 11 1 13 1 0 0 0 12 + + 3 1 3 2 2 18 2 0 22 2 2 1 0 22 0 14 + 3 1/4 2 0 7 3 8 2 2 10 2 7 1 1 17 0 16 + 3 1/2 2 1 12 3 19 3 0 2 2 17 1 2 15 0 19 + 3 3/4 2 2 21 4 11 3 1 21 3 7 1 3 14 1 2 + + 4 3 0 6 5 3 4 0 0 3 17 2 0 16 1 5 + 4 1/4 3 2 0 5 17 4 2 0 4 4 2 1 18 1 8 + 4 1/2 3 3 20 6 11 4 3 24 4 10 2 2 20 1 12 + + 5 4 2 24 8 2 6 0 15 5 10 3 1 8 2 0 + 5 1/2 5 3 16 9 16 7 1 15 6 10 4 0 0 2 8 + + 6 7 0 8 11 13 8 3 4 8 9 4 3 4 2 18 + 6 1/2 8 1 0 13 14 10 1 12 9 9 5 2 12 3 6 + + 7 9 1 20 15 18 12 0 8 11 9 6 2 4 3 18 + + 8 12 0 24 20 14 16 0 0 15 9 8 2 8 5 0 + + + + + + + Galvanised Galvanised + Circum- Galvanised Patent Steel Patent Steel + ference Rigging Flexible Extra Flexible + of Rope. Wire Rope. Wire Rope. Wire Rope. + + Weight Weight Weight + per Breaking per Breaking per Breaking + Fathom. Strain Fathom. Strain Fathom. Strain + + Lbs. Tons. Lbs. Tons. Lbs. Tons. + + 1 1.2 1 3/4 .76 1 3/4 .88 2 1/2 + 1 1/4 1.6 3 1.12 2 7/8 1.36 4 + 1 1/2 2.2 4 1.44 4 2.00 7 + 1 3/4 3.0 5 1/2 2.00 5 1/2 2.72 9 + + 2 3.8 7 2.40 7 3.48 11 + 2 1/4 4.6 9 3.12 9 1/2 4.44 13 1/2 + 2 1/2 5.8 11 4.00 12 1/2 5.44 17 1/2 + 2 3/4 6.8 13 4.64 15 1/2 6.72 22 1/2 + + 3 8.0 16 5.48 18 8.00 25 1/2 + 3 1/4 9.2 19 6.80 22 9.48 30 + 3 1/2 11.2 22 7.80 26 11.00 36 + 3 3/4 12.4 26 9.00 29 12.44 40 + + 4 14.4 30 10.00 33 14.24 44 + 4 1/4 17.0 34 11.20 35 16.00 49 + 4 1/2 18.4 38 12.80 39 18.00 50 + + 5 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 5 1/2 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 6 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 6 1/2 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 7 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 8 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + + +{86} + ++Strength of Short Round-Linked Chain+. + + INCHES. MEAN BREAKING STRAIN. TEST. + Tons. + + 1 1/4 44 18.8 + 1 29 12.0 + 7/8 23 9.1 + 3/4 17 6.8 + 5/8 12 4.6 + 1/2 7 1/2 3.0 + + + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Knots, Bends, Splices, by J. Netherclift Jutsum + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KNOTS, BENDS, SPLICES *** + +***** This file should be named 30983.txt or 30983.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/9/8/30983/ + +Produced by Al Haines + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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