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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/29519-8.txt b/29519-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a57e7b5 --- /dev/null +++ b/29519-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4230 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Nelson's Home Comforts, by Mary Hooper + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Nelson's Home Comforts + Thirteenth Edition + +Author: Mary Hooper + +Release Date: July 27, 2009 [EBook #29519] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Lindy Walsh, S.D., and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + NELSON'S + + HOME COMFORTS. + + THIRTEENTH EDITION. + + REVISED AND ENLARGED + + BY MARY HOOPER, + + AUTHOR OF "LITTLE DINNERS," "EVERY-DAY MEALS," + "COOKERY FOR INVALIDS," _ETC. ETC._ + + [Illustration: Decoration] + + London: + G. NELSON, DALE & CO., LIMITED, + 14, DOWGATE HILL. + 1892. + + +ANY OF + +NELSON'S SPECIALITIES + +MENTIONED IN THIS BOOK + +_MAY BE OBTAINED FROM_ + + |--------------------------| + | | + | W. CHAPLIN & SONS, | + | 19 & 20, WATERLOO PLACE, | + | SOUTHAMPTON. | + | | + |PLEASE SEND, S.W.R. | + |--------------------------| + +They are also Sold by Grocers, Chemists, Italian Warehousemen, etc., +throughout the World. Should any difficulty be experienced in obtaining +them, kindly send the name and address of your Grocer, and we will at +once communicate with him. + +[Illustration: TRADE MARK.] + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +NELSON'S SPECIALITIES. + +*** + + PATENT OPAQUE GELATINE. + In packets, from 6d. to 7s. 6d. + + CITRIC ACID. + In 3d. packets. For use with the Gelatine. + + ESSENCE OF LEMON, ALMONDS, & VANILLA. + In graduated bottles, 8d. + + FAMILY JELLY BOXES. + 7s. 6d. each. + Containing sufficient of the above materials for 12 quarts of Jelly. + + BOTTLED WINE JELLIES (Concentrated). + CALF'S FOOT, LEMON, SHERRY, PORT, ORANGE, AND CHERRY. + Quarts, 2s. 6d.; Pints, 1s. 4d.; Half-pints, 9d. + + TABLET JELLIES. + ORANGE, LEMON, CALF'S FOOT, CHERRY, RASPBERRY, VANILLA, PORT, + SHERRY, ETC. Quarts, 9d.; Pints, 6d.; Half-pints, 3d. + + WINE TABLET JELLIES. + PORT, SHERRY, ORANGE. Pints only, 9d. + + PATENT REFINED ISINGLASS. + In 1s. packets. + + GELATINE LOZENGES. LIQUORICE LOZENGES. + In Ornamental Tins, 6d. + + JELLY-JUBES. + A most agreeable and nourishing Sweetmeat. + + EXTRACT OF MEAT. + FOR SOUPS, GRAVIES, ETC. In ounce packets, 4d. + + PURE BEEF TEA. + In half-pint packets, 6d. + + SOUPS. + BEEF AND CARROTS } + BEEF AND CELERY } In pint packets, + BEEF AND ONIONS } 6d. each. + MULLIGATAWNY } + BEEF, PEAS, AND VEGETABLES } In quart packets, + BEEF, LENTILS, AND VEGETABLES } 6d. each. + PENNY PACKETS OF SOUP for charitable purposes. + + EGG ALBUMEN. + For clearing Jelly or Soup. + In boxes containing 12 packets, 9d. per box. + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +LITTLE DINNERS, + +How to serve them with Elegance and Economy. + +BY MARY HOOPER. + +_Twenty-second Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._ + +"Shows us how to serve up a 'little dinner,' such as a philosopher might +offer a monarch--good, varied, in good taste, and cheap. Exactly what +the young English wife wishes to know, and what the ordinary cookery +book does not teach her."--_Queen._ + +*** + +EVERY-DAY MEALS, + +Being Economic and Wholesome Recipes for Plain Dinners, Breakfasts, +Luncheons, and Suppers. + +BY MARY HOOPER. + +_Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._ + +"Our already deep obligations to Miss Hooper are weightily increased by +this excellent and practical little book. The recipes for little dishes +are excellent, and so clearly worded that presumptuous man instantly +believes, on reading them, that he could descend into the kitchen and +'toss up' the little dishes without any difficulty."--_Spectator._ + +*** + +COOKERY FOR INVALIDS, + +For Persons of Delicate Digestion, and for Children. + +BY MARY HOOPER. + +_Sixth Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._ + +"An epicure might be content with the little dishes provided by Miss +Hooper; but, at the same time, the volume fills the utmost extent of +promise held out in the title-page."--_Pall Mall Gazette._ + +*** + +LONDON: KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, & CO. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +*** + + + PAGE + + PREFACE 7 + Bottled Jellies 7 + Tablet Jellies 8 + Lemon Sponge 9 + Citric Acid and Pure Essence of Lemon 9 + Pure Essence of Almonds and Vanilla 9 + Gelatine Lozenges 9 + Jelly-Jubes 10 + Licorice Lozenges 10 + Albumen 10 + Extract of Meat 10 + Soups 11 + Beef Tea 12 + New Zealand Mutton 12 + Tinned Meats 12 + Gelatine 13 + + SOUPS 14 + + LITTLE DISHES OF FISH 22 + + LITTLE DISHES OF MEAT 31 + + PUDDINGS 50 + + JELLIES 61 + + CREAMS 74 + + CAKES 85 + + BEVERAGES 93 + + MACARONI, ETC. 98 + + HINTS ON HOUSEKEEPING 105 + + NEW ZEALAND FROZEN MUTTON 119 + + INDEX 121 + + + + +NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS. + +*** + +PREFACE. + + +In presenting our friends and the public with the thirteenth edition of +our "Home Comforts," we have the pleasure to remark that so greatly has +the book been appreciated, that the large number of FIVE HUNDRED +THOUSAND copies has been called for. The value of the Jubilee Edition +was enhanced by some new recipes; these are repeated in the present +edition, to which, also, some valuable additions have been made. Since +the introduction of our Gelatine by the late Mr. G. Nelson, more than +fifty years ago, we have considerably enlarged our list of specialities, +and we have gratefully to acknowledge the public favour accorded to us. + +Among those of our preparations which have met with so much appreciation +and success, we would cite the following: + +NELSON'S BOTTLED JELLIES.--It is sometimes so difficult, if not +impossible, to have a first-class jelly made in private kitchens, that +we venture to think our BOTTLED JELLIES will be highly appreciated by +all housekeepers. It is not too much to say that a ready-made jelly of +the highest quality, and of the best and purest materials, requiring +only the addition of hot water, is now, for the first time, supplied. +Careful experiments, extending over a long period of time, have been +required to bring this excellent and very useful preparation to its +present state of perfection, and it is confidently asserted that no +home-made jelly can surpass it in purity, brilliancy, or delicacy of +flavour. All that is necessary to prepare the jelly for the table is to +dissolve it by placing the bottle in hot water, and then to add the +given quantity of water to bring it to a proper consistency. It is +allowed to stand until on the point of setting, and is then put into a +mould. + +NELSON'S CALF'S FOOT, LEMON, PORT, SHERRY, ORANGE, AND CHERRY JELLIES +are now to be had of all first-class grocers, and are put up in bottles +each containing sufficient of the concentrated preparation to make a +quart, pint, or half-pint. + +NELSON'S TABLET JELLIES are recommended for general use, are guaranteed +of the purest and best materials, and are flavoured with the finest +fruit essences. The Tablet Jellies are of so moderate a price as to be +within the reach of all classes, and can be used as an every-day +addition to the family bill of fare. They are not, however, intended as +a substitute for high-class jellies, whether bottled or home-made. + +The Tablet Jellies used as directed in the recipes make, in a few +minutes, creams of a most delicate kind, remarkable for smoothness of +texture and fine flavour. + +NELSON'S PORT, SHERRY, AND ORANGE WINE TABLET JELLIES have now been +added to the list. + +NELSON'S LEMON SPONGE, supplied in tins, is a delicious novelty, and +will be found to surpass any that can be made at home. + +NELSON'S CITRIC ACID AND PURE ESSENCE OF LEMON.--In order to save the +trouble of putting jelly through a strainer when required for invalids, +we have introduced our Citric Acid and Essence of Lemon, and by their +use a jelly clear enough for all ordinary purposes is made in a few +minutes. + +LEMONADE and other beverages can be quickly made, and with less expense +than by any other method, by using Nelson's Citric Acid and Essence of +Lemon, and for these recipes are given. Delicious beverages are also +made with Nelson's Bottled Jellies, see page 93. + +NELSON'S PURE ESSENCE OF ALMONDS AND VANILLA.--These Extracts, like the +Essence of Lemon, will be found of superior strength and flavour, and +specially adapted for the recipes in this book. + +NELSON'S GELATINE LOZENGES are not only a delicious sweetmeat, but most +useful as voice lozenges, or in cases of sore or irritable throat. The +flavour is very delicate and refreshing. Dissolved in water they make a +useful beverage, and also a jelly suitable for children and invalids. + +NELSON'S JELLY-JUBES will be found most agreeable and nourishing +sweetmeats, deliciously flavoured with fruit essences. They can be used +as cough lozenges, will be found soothing for delicate throats, are +useful for travellers, and may be freely given to children. + +NELSON'S LICORICE LOZENGES are not only a favourite sweetmeat, but in +cases of throat irritation and cough are found to be soothing and +curative. + +NELSON'S ALBUMEN is the white of eggs carefully dried and prepared, so +that it will keep for an indefinite length of time. It is useful for any +purpose to which the white of egg is applied, and answers well for +clearing soup and jelly. When required for use, the albumen is soaked in +cold water and whisked in the usual way. + +NELSON'S EXTRACT OF MEAT.--The numerous testimonials which have been +received as to the excellence of this preparation, as well as the great +and universal demand for it, have afforded the highest satisfaction to +us as the manufacturers, and have enabled us to offer it with increased +confidence to the public. It is invaluable, whether for making soup or +gravy, or for strengthening or giving flavour to many dishes; and it is +not only superior to, but far cheaper than, any similar preparation now +before the public. + +Now that clear soup is so constantly required, and a thing of every-day +use, Nelson's Extract of Meat will be found a great boon. With the +addition of a little vegetable flavouring, a packet of the Extract will +make a pint of soup as good and as fine as that produced, at much labour +and expense, from fresh meat. With a judicious use of the liquor derived +from boiling fowls, rabbits, and fresh meat, an endless variety of soup +may be made, by the addition of Nelson's Extract of Meat. Some recipes +are given by which first-class soups can be prepared in a short time, at +a very small cost, and with but little trouble. It may be as well to say +that soaking for a few minutes in cold water facilitates the solution of +the Extract of Meat. + +NELSON'S SOUPS are deserving of the attention of every housekeeper, for +they combine all the elements of good nourishment, have an excellent +flavour, both of meat and vegetables, are prepared by merely boiling the +contents of a packet for fifteen minutes, and are so cheap as to be +within everybody's means. Penny packets of these soups, for charitable +purposes, will be found most useful and nourishing. + +Those who have to cater for a family know how often a little soup will +make up a dinner that would otherwise be insufficient; yet because of +the time and trouble required in the preparation, it is impossible to +have it. In a case like this, or when a supplementary dish is +unexpectedly required, Nelson's Soups are most useful. Although these +Soups are all that can be desired, made with water according to the +directions given with each packet, they can be utilised with great +advantage for strengthening household stock. + +For instance, the liquor in which a leg of mutton has been boiled, or of +pork, if not too salt, can be at once, by using a packet or two of +Nelson's Soup, converted into a delicious and nourishing soup, and at a +cost surprisingly small. Or the bones of any joint can be made into +stock, and, after all the fat has been skimmed off, have a packet of +Nelson's Soup added, in the same manner as in the directions. + +NELSON'S BEEF TEA will be found of the highest value, supplying a cup of +unequalled nourishment, combining all the constituents of fresh beef. No +other preparation now before the public contains that most important +element, albumen, in a soluble form, as well as much of the fibrin of +the meat. This Beef Tea is also generally relished by invalids, and +merely requires to be dissolved in boiling water. + +NEW ZEALAND MUTTON.--For information respecting this meat, and the great +advantage as well as economy of its use, see page 119. + +NELSON'S TINNED MEATS, known as the "Tomoana Brand," are prepared at the +works of NELSON BROS., LIMITED, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, from the +finest cattle of the country. Messrs. NELSON specially recommend their +"Pressed Mutton and Green Peas," "Haricot Mutton," and "Pressed Corned +Mutton." The "Stewed Kidneys" will be found of a quality superior to any +articles of the kind now in the market, while the price places them +within the reach of all classes of consumers. + +NELSON'S GELATINE having now been favourably known all over the world +for more than half a century, it is unnecessary to do more than observe +that our efforts are constantly directed to supplying a perfectly pure +article, always of the same strength and quality. When Russian isinglass +was first introduced into this country, the prejudices against its use +on the part of our great-grandmothers were violent and extreme; for +those worthy ladies would not believe that some unfamiliar substance, of +the origin of which they were either ignorant or doubtful, could form an +efficient substitute for the well-known calves' feet and cow-heels, from +which they had always been in the habit of making their jellies and +blanc-manges. By degrees, however, the Gelatine made its way, and at +length superseded the old system entirely; and its popularity is +demonstrated by the fact that the works at Emscote, near Warwick, cover +nearly five acres. + + * * * * * + +N.B.--It is necessary to call attention to the fact that in all the +following recipes in which Nelson's Gelatine and Specialities are used, +the quantities are calculated for _their manufactures only_, the quality +and strength of which may be relied upon for uniformity. + + + + +NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS. + +*** + +SOUPS. + +*** + + +BEEF AND ONION SOUP. + +A pint of very good soup can be made by following the directions which +accompany each tin of Nelson's Beef and Onion Soup, viz. to soak the +contents in a pint of cold water for fifteen minutes, then place over +the fire, stir, and boil for fifteen minutes. It is delicious when +combined with a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, thus producing a quart +of nutritious and appetising soup. + + +NELSON'S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. + +Soaked in cold water for a quarter of an hour, and then boiled for +fifteen minutes, Nelson's Mulligatawny Soup is very appetising and +delicious. It should be eaten with boiled rice; and for those who like +the soup even hotter than that in the above preparation, the +accompanying rice may be curried. In either case the rice should be +boiled so that each grain should be separate and distinct from the +rest. + + +BEEF, LENTIL, AND VEGETABLE SOUP. + +Pour one quart of boiling water upon the contents of a tin of Nelson's +Soup of the above title, stirring briskly. The water must be boiling. A +little seasoning of salt and pepper may be added for accustomed palates. +This soup is perfectly delicious if prepared as follows: Cut two peeled +onions into quarters, tie them in a muslin bag, and let the soup boil +for twenty minutes with them. Take out the bag before serving the soup. + + +BEEF, PEA, AND VEGETABLE SOUP. + +The directions printed on each packet of Nelson's Beef, Pea, and +Vegetable Soup produce a satisfactory soup, but even this may be +improved by the addition of the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of +Meat and a handful of freshly-gathered peas. It is perhaps not generally +known that pea-pods, usually thrown away as useless, impart a most +delicious flavour to soup if boiled fast for two or three hours in a +large saucepan, strained, and the liquor added to the soup, stock, or +beef tea. + + +BEEF TEA AS A SOLID. + +Soak the contents of a tin of Nelson's Beef Tea in a gill of water for +ten minutes. Add to this the third of an ounce packet of Nelson's +Gelatine, which has been soaked for two or three hours in half-a-pint of +cold water. Put the mixture in a stewpan, and stir until it reaches +boiling-point. Then put it into a mould which has been rinsed with cold +water. When thoroughly cold, this will turn out a most inviting and +extremely nutritious dish. + + +CLEAR VERMICELLI SOUP. + +Boil two minced onions in a quart of the liquor in which a leg of mutton +has been boiled, skim well, and when the vegetables are tender strain +them out. Pass the soup through a napkin, boil up, skim thoroughly, and +when clear add the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, +stirring until dissolved. + +Boil two ounces of vermicelli paste in a pint of water until tender. +Most shapes take about ten minutes. Take care that the water boils when +you throw in the paste, and that it continues to do so during all the +time of cooking, as that will keep the paste from sticking together. +When done, drain it in a strainer, put it in the tureen, and pour the +soup on to it. + + +SOUP JULIENNE. + +Wash and scrape a large carrot, cut away all the yellow parts from the +middle, and slice the red outside of it an inch in length, and the +eighth of an inch thick. Take an equal quantity of turnip and three +small onions, cut in a similar manner. Put them in a stewpan with two +ounces of butter and a pinch of powdered sugar; stir over the fire until +a nice brown colour, then add a quart of water and a teaspoonful of +salt, and let all simmer together gently for two hours. When done skim +the fat off very carefully, and ten minutes before serving add the +contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and a cabbage-lettuce cut +in shreds and blanched for a minute in boiling water; simmer for five +minutes and the soup will be ready. Many cooks, to save time and +trouble, use the preserved vegetables, which are to be had in great +perfection at all good Italian warehouses. + + +BROWN RABBIT SOUP CLEAR. + +Fry a quarter of a pound of onions a light brown; mince a turnip and +carrot and a little piece of celery; boil these until tender in three +pints of the liquor in which a rabbit has been boiled, taking care to +remove all scum as it rises; strain them out, and then pass the soup +through a napkin. The soup should be clear, or nearly so, but if it is +not, put it in a stewpan, boil and skim until bright; then throw in the +contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, soaked for a few minutes; +stir until dissolved; add pepper and salt to taste. + + +HARE SOUP. + +Half roast a hare, and, having cut away the meat in long slices from the +backbone, put it aside to make an _entrée_. Fry four onions; take a +carrot, turnip, celery, a small quantity of thyme and parsley, +half-a-dozen peppercorns, a small blade of mace, some bacon-bones or a +slice of lean ham, with the body of the hare cut up into small pieces; +put all in two quarts of water with a little salt. When you have +skimmed the pot, cover close and allow it to boil gently for three +hours, then strain it; take off every particle of fat, and having +allowed the soup to boil up, add the contents of a tin of Nelson's +Extract of Meat, and thicken it with a dessertspoonful of potato-flour; +stir in two lumps of sugar, a glass of port wine, and season if +necessary. + + +MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. + +English cooks generally err in making both mulligatawny and curries too +hot. It is impossible to give the exact quantity of the powder, because +it varies so much in strength, and the cook must therefore be guided by +the quality of her material. Mulligatawny may be made cheaply, and be +delicious. The liquor in which meat or fowl has been boiled will make a +superior soup, and fish-liquor will answer well. Slice and fry brown +four onions, quarter, but do not peel, four sharp apples; boil them in +three pints of stock until tender, then rub through a sieve to a pulp. +Boil this up in the soup, skimming well; add the contents of a tin of +Nelson's Extract of Meat, and stir in two ounces of flour and the +curry-powder, mixed smooth in half-a-pint of milk. Any little pieces of +meat, fowl, game, or fish may be added as an improvement to the soup. +Just before serving taste that the soup is well-flavoured; add a little +lemon-juice or vinegar. + + +THIN MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. + +To a quart of the liquor in which a fresh haddock has been boiled, add +half-a-pint of water in which onions have been boiled. Stir into this, +after it has been skimmed, and whilst boiling, the contents of a tin of +Nelson's Extract of Meat, and a teaspoonful of curry-powder; let it boil +up; add the juice of half a lemon and serve. + + +BROWN ARTICHOKE SOUP. + +Wash, peel, and cut into slices about half-an-inch thick two pounds of +Jerusalem artichokes. Fry them in a little butter until brown; fry also +brown half-a-pound of sliced onions. Put these to boil in two quarts of +water with two turnips, a carrot sliced, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and +one of pepper. When the vegetables are tender drain the liquor, set it +aside to cool, and remove all fat. Pass the vegetables through a fine +sieve to a nice smooth _purée_. Those who possess a Kent's "triturating +strainer" will be able to do this much more satisfactorily, both as +regards time and results, than by the old way of rubbing through a +sieve. Put the liquor on to boil, dissolve in it--according to the +strength the soup is required to be--the contents of one or two tins of +Nelson's Extract of Meat, then add the vegetable _purée_, a lump or two +of sugar, and if required, salt and pepper. Let it boil up and serve. + + +TURTLE SOUP. + +This soup is so often required for invalids, as well as for the table, +that an easy and comparatively inexpensive method of preparing it cannot +fail to be acceptable. Nelson's Beef Tea or Extract of Meat will be used +instead of fresh beef, and Bellis's Sun-dried Turtle instead of live +turtle. If convenient it is desirable to soak the dried turtle all +night, but it can be used without doing so. Put it on to boil in the +water in which it was soaked, in the proportion of one quart with a +teaspoonful of salt to a quarter of a pound of the turtle. Add two or +three onions peeled and quartered, a small bit of mace and sliced +lemon-peel, and simmer gently for four or five hours, or until the +turtle is tender enough to divide easily with a spoon. Stock of any kind +may be used instead of water, and as the liquid boils away more should +be added, to keep the original quantity. Herbs for the proper flavouring +of the Turtle Soup are supplied by Bellis; these should be put in about +an hour before the turtle is finished, and be tied in muslin. When done +take out the turtle and divide it into neat little pieces; strain the +liquor in which it was cooked, and having boiled it up, stir in the +contents of two tins of Nelson's Extract of Meat, previously soaked for +a few minutes. Mix smooth in a gill of cold water a teaspoonful of +French potato-flour and of Vienna flour, stir into the soup, and when it +has thickened put in the turtle meat; let it get hot through, add a +wine-glassful of sherry, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, and salt and +pepper to taste, and serve at once. It is necessary to have "Bellis's +Sun-dried Turtle," imported by T. K. Bellis, Jeffrey's Square, St. Mary +Axe, London (sold in boxes), for this soup, because it is warranted +properly prepared. An inferior article, got up by negroes from turtle +found dead, is frequently sold at a low price; but it is unnecessary to +say it is not good or wholesome. + + +MOCK TURTLE SOUP. + +This, like real turtle soup, can be made of Nelson's Extract of Meat and +Bellis's Mock Turtle Meat. Boil the contents of a tin of this meat in +water or stock, salted and flavoured with vegetables and turtle herbs, +until tender. Finish with Nelson's Extract of Meat, and as directed for +turtle soup. + + +GRAVY. + +For roast meat, merely dissolve, after a little soaking, a tin of +Nelson's Extract of Meat in a pint of boiling water. For poultry or +game, fry two onions a light brown, mince a little carrot and turnip, +put in half a teaspoonful of herbs, tied in muslin, and boil until +tender, in a pint of water. Strain out the herbs, let the liquor boil +up, stir in the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and if +the gravy is required to be slightly thickened, add a small teaspoonful +of potato-flour mixed smooth in cold water. For cutlets or other dishes +requiring sharp sauce, make exactly as above, and just before serving +add a little of any good piquant sauce, or pickles minced finely. + + +GLAZE. + +Soak in a small jar the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat in +rather less than a gill of cold water. Set the jar over the fire in a +saucepan with boiling water, and let the extract simmer until dissolved. +This is useful for strengthening soups and gravies, and for glazing ham, +tongues, and other things. + + + + +LITTLE DISHES OF FISH. + +*** + + +The recipes we are now giving are suitable for dinner, supper, or +breakfast dishes, and will be found especially useful for the latter +meal, as there is nothing more desirable for breakfast than fish. We are +constantly told that it is not possible to have fresh fish for +breakfast, because it cannot be kept all night in the home larder. But +we must insist that there is no greater difficulty in keeping fish than +meat. Indeed, there is perhaps less difficulty, because fish can be left +lying in vinegar, if necessary, whereas in the case of meat it cannot +always be done. + +We will suppose that it is necessary to use strict economy. It is as +well to proceed on that supposition, because people can always be lavish +in their expenditure, whereas it is not so easy to provide for the +household at once well and economically. In many neighbourhoods fish is +sold much cheaper late in the day than in the morning, and in this case +the housekeeper who can buy overnight for the use of the next day has a +great advantage. Suppose you get the tail of a cod weighing three +pounds, as you frequently may, at a very small price in the evening, and +use a part of it stuffed and baked for supper, you can have a dish of +cutlets of the remainder for breakfast which will be very acceptable. We +do not mean a dish of the cold remains, but of a portion of the fish +kept uncooked, as it easily may be, as we have before said, by dipping +it in vinegar. Or, you get mackerel. Nothing is better than this fish +treated according to the recipe we give. Even so delicate a fish as +whiting may, by a little management with vinegar, be kept perfectly well +from one day to the other. Skinned whiting has very little flavour, and +although when skilfully cooked in the usual way it is useful by way of +change, the nourishment is much impaired by the removal of the skin. The +same remark applies to soles. By frying fish unskinned you get a dish of +a different character to that of skinned fish, and one of which the +appetite does not so soon tire. + + +FRIED SOLE. + +Soles weighing from three-quarters of a pound to a pound are the most +suitable size for frying whole. If it is desired to have the fish juicy +and with their full flavour, do not have them skinned. The black side of +the soles will not of course look so well, or be so crisp, as the white +side, but this is of little consequence compared to the nourishment +sacrificed in removing the skin. Have the soles scraped, wipe them, put +a tablespoonful of vinegar in a dish, pass the fish through it, and let +them lie an hour or more, if necessary all night, as the flavour is thus +improved. Run a knife along the backbone, which prevents it looking red +when cut. When ready to crumb the fish, lay them in a cloth and +thoroughly dry them. Beat up the yolk of an egg with a very little of +the white, which will be sufficient to egg a pair of soles; pass the +fish through the egg on both sides, hold it up to drain; have ready on a +plate a quarter of a pound of very fine dry crumbs, mixed with two +ounces of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of +pepper. Draw the fish over the crumbs, first on one side, then on the +other, and lay it gently on a dish, black side downwards, whilst you +prepare another. Some people succeed better in crumbing fish by sifting +the crumbs on to it through a very fine strainer after it is egged. When +the fish are ready put them, black side downwards, into the frying-pan +with plenty of fat, hot enough to brown a piece of bread +instantaneously, move the pan about gently, and when the soles have been +fried four minutes, put a strong cooking-fork into them near the head, +turn the white side downwards, and fry three minutes longer. Seven +minutes will be sufficient to fry a sole weighing three-quarters of a +pound, and a pair of this weight is sufficient for a party of six +persons. When the sole is done put the fork into the fish close to the +head, hold it up and let all the fat drain away, lay it on a sheet of +cap paper, and cover over with another sheet. Being thus quite freed +from grease, of a rich golden brown, crisp, and with an even surface, +lay the fish on the dish for serving, which should have on it either a +fish-paper or a napkin neatly folded. A well-fried sole is best eaten +without any sauce, but in deference to the national usage, butter sauce, +or melted butter, may be served with it. + + +FILLETED SOLES. + +It is better for the cook to fillet the soles, for there is often much +waste when it is done by the fishmonger. Having skinned the fish, with a +sharp knife make an incision down the spine-bone from the head to the +tail, and then along the fins; press the knife between the flesh and +the bone, bearing rather hard against the latter, and the fillets will +then be readily removed. These can now be dressed in a variety of ways; +perhaps the most delicate for breakfast is the following: + + +FILLETS OF SOLE SAUTÉS. + +Having dried the fillets, divide them into neat pieces two or three +inches long; dip them in the beaten yolk of egg, and then in seasoned +bread-crumbs. Make a little butter hot in the frying-pan, put in the +fillets and cook them slowly until brown on one side, then turn and +finish on the other. + + +FILLETS OF SOLE FRIED. + +These may either be rolled in one piece or divided into several, as in +the foregoing recipe. In either case egg and crumb them thoroughly, +place them in the wire-basket as you do them, which immerse in fat hot +enough to crisp bread instantly. When done, put the fillets on paper to +absorb any grease clinging to them, and serve as hot as possible. All +kinds of flat fish can be filleted and cooked by these recipes, and will +usually be found more economical than serving the fish whole. It is also +economical to fillet the tail-end of cod, salmon, and turbot, and either +fry or _sauté_, as may be preferred. + + +FILLETS OF SOLE WITH LOBSTER. + +Thin and fillet a pair of soles, each weighing about a pound. Roll the +fillets, secure them with thread, which remove before serving; put them +in a stewpan with two ounces of sweet butter, cover closely, and allow +them to cook at a slow heat for twenty minutes or until tender, taking +care to keep them from getting brown. Prepare a sauce by boiling a +quarter of a pound of veal cutlet and the bones of the fish in +half-a-pint of water. When reduced to a gill, strain and take off all +fat from the sauce, thicken either with fine flour or "Rizine," put it +into the stewpan with the fish, and allow it to stand for a quarter of +an hour without boiling. Mince or cut in small pieces either the meat of +a small fresh lobster, or half a flat tin of the best brand of preserved +lobster. Make this hot by putting it in a jam pot standing in a saucepan +of boiling water. Take up the fish, carefully pour the sauce round, and +place on the top of each fillet some of the lobster. + + +BAKED WHITING. + +Small whiting answer well for this purpose. Tie them round, the tail to +the mouth, dip them in dissolved butter, lightly sprinkle with pepper +and salt, strew them with pale raspings, put them in a baking-dish with +a little butter, and bake in a quick oven for a quarter of an hour. + + +COD CUTLETS. + +A cheap and excellent dish is made by filleting the tail of cod, egging +and crumbing the pieces and frying them. Get about a pound and a half of +the tail of a fine cod; with a sharp knife divide the flesh from the +bone lengthways, cut it into neat pieces as nearly of a size as you can, +and flatten with a knife. Dip in egg, then in crumbs mixed with a little +flour, pepper, and salt. It is best to fry the cutlets in the +wire-basket in plenty of fat, but if this is not convenient they can be +done in the frying-pan; in any case, they should be done quickly, so +that they may get crisp. + + +FRIED HERRINGS. + +Take care the fish is well cleaned, without being split. Two or three +hours before cooking, lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper; when ready +to cook, wipe and flour the herrings. Have ready in the frying-pan as +much fat at the proper temperature as will cover the herrings. Cook +quickly at first, then moderate the heat slightly, and fry for ten to +twelve minutes, when they should be crisp and brown. When done, lay them +on a dish before the fire, in order that all fat and the fish-oil may +drain from them; with this precaution, fried herrings will be found more +digestible than otherwise they would be. + + +ROLLED HERRINGS. + +Choose the herrings with soft roes. Having scraped and washed them, cut +off the heads, split open, take out the roes, and cleanse the fish. Hold +one in the left hand, and, with thumb and finger of the right, press the +backbone to loosen it, then lay flat on the board and draw out the bone; +it will come out whole, leaving none behind. Dissolve a little fresh +butter, pass the inner side of the fish through it, sprinkle pepper and +salt lightly over, then roll it up tightly with the fin and tail +outwards, roll it in flour and sprinkle a little pepper and salt, then +put a small game skewer to keep the herring in shape. Have ready a good +quantity of boiling fat; it is best to do the herrings in a wire-basket, +and fry them quickly for ten minutes. Take them up and set them on a +plate before the fire, in order that all the fat may drain from them. +Pass the roes through flour mixed with a sufficient quantity of pepper +and salt, fry them brown, and garnish the fish with them and crisp +parsley. A difficulty is often felt in introducing herrings at dinner on +account of the number of small bones in them, but this is obviated by +the above method of dressing, as with care not one bone should be left +in. + + +GALANTINE OF FISH. + +Procure a fine large fresh haddock and two smaller, of which to make +forcemeat. Take off the head and open the large fish. Carefully press +the meat from the backbone, which must be removed without breaking the +skin; trim away the rough parts and small bones at the sides. Cover the +inside of the fish with a layer of forcemeat, and at intervals place +lengthways a few fillets of anchovies, between which sprinkle a little +lobster coral which has been passed through a wire sieve; fold the +haddock into its original form, and sew it up with a needle and strong +thread. Dip a cloth in hot water, wring it as dry as possible, butter +sufficient space to cover the fish, then fold it up, tie each end, and +put a small safety pin in the middle to keep it firm. Braise the +galantine for an hour in stock made from the bones of the fish. Let it +stay in the liquor until cold, when take it up and draw out the sewing +thread. Reduce and strain the liquor, mix with cream and aspic jelly, or +Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a +pint. When this sauce is on the point of setting, coat the galantine +with it, sprinkle with little passed lobster coral, dish in a bed of +shred salad, tastefully interspersed with beetroot cut in dice and +dipped in oil and vinegar. + +To make the forcemeat, pound the fillets of the small haddocks till +fine, then work in about half its quantity of bread panada, an ounce of +butter, and the fillets of two anchovies; season with salt and pepper, +mix in one egg and a yolk, pass through a wire sieve, and work into it a +gill of cream. + + +FILLETS OF SOLE EN ASPIC. + +Aspic jelly, or meat jelly, may be made very good, and at a moderate +cost, by boiling lean beef or veal in water with a little vegetable and +spice. To make it according to the standard recipes is so expensive and +tedious that few persons care to attempt it. The following directions +will enable a cook to make an excellent and clear aspic. + +Cut two pounds of lean beefsteak or veal cutlet into dice, put it on in +two quarts of cold water, and as soon as it boils, take off the scum as +it rises. Let it simmer gently for half-an-hour; then add four onions, a +turnip, carrot, small bundle of sweet herbs, blade of mace, half-a-dozen +white peppercorns, and when it has again boiled for an hour strain it +through a napkin. Let it stand until cold, remove all the fat, boil it +up, and to a quart of the liquor put an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, +previously soaked in cold water. Add salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper, +and when the jelly is cool stir in the whites and shells of two eggs +well beaten. Let the jelly boil briskly for two minutes, let it stand +off the fire for a few minutes, then strain through a jelly-bag and use +as directed. Take the fillets of a pair of large thick soles, cut them +into neat square pieces, leaving the trimmings for other dishes, and lay +them in vinegar with a little salt for an hour. As they must be kept +very white the best French vinegar should be used. Boil the fillets +gently in salted water, with a little vinegar, till done; take them up +and dry them on a cloth. Have ready some picked parsley and hard-boiled +eggs cut in quarters; arrange these neatly at the bottom of a plain +mould so as to form a pretty pattern. Pour in very gently enough jelly +to cover the first layer, let it stand until beginning to set, then put +another layer of fish, eggs, and parsley, then more jelly, and so on +until the mould is full. When done set the mould on ice, or allow it to +stand some hours in a cold place to get well set. Turn it out, ornament +with parsley, beetroot, and cut lemon. + + +COLLARED EELS. + +Clean and boil the eels in water highly seasoned with pepper and salt, +an onion, bay-leaf, a clove, and a little vinegar. When the eels are +done enough, slip out the bones and cut them up into pieces about two +inches long. Take the liquor in which the fish is boiled, strain it, let +it boil in the stewpan without the lid, skimming it until it becomes +clear. Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine to each +half-pint of the fish gravy, and boil together for a minute, let it then +stand until cool. Arrange the pieces of eel tastefully in a plain mould +with small sprigs of curled parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs, and, +if you like, a fillet or two of anchovies cut up into dice. When all the +fish is thus arranged in the mould, pour the jelly in very gently, a +tablespoonful at a time, in order not to disturb the solid material. Let +the mould stand in cold water for seven or eight hours, when it can be +turned out. Ornament with parsley, lemon, and beetroot. + + + + +LITTLE DISHES OF MEAT. + +*** + + +In this chapter a number of useful and inexpensive dishes are given, +which will serve either as breakfast dishes, _entrées_, or for invalids, +and which may, in the hands of an intelligent cook, serve as models for +many others. As will be seen, it is not so much a question of expense to +provide these little tasty dishes as of management. In all the following +recipes for little dishes of mutton, it will be found a great advantage +to use New Zealand Meat. + +A good cook will never be embarrassed by having too much cold meat on +hand, because she will be able by her skill so to vary the dishes that +the appetites of those for whom she caters will never tire of it. Even a +small piece of the loin of mutton may be served in half-a-dozen +different ways, and be relished by those who are tired of the +mutton-chop or the plain roast. + + +MUTTON CUTLETS. + +Taken from the neck, mutton cutlets are expensive, but those from the +loin will be found not only convenient, but to answer well at a smaller +cost. + +First remove the under-cut or fillet from about two pounds of the best +end of a loin of mutton, cut off the flap, which will be useful for +stewing, and it is especially good eaten cold, and then remove the meat +from the bones in one piece, which divide with the fillet into cutlets +about half-an-inch thick. Egg them over and dip them in well-seasoned +bread-crumbs, fry them until a nice brown, and serve with gravy made +from the bones and an onion. + +This way of cooking the loin is much more economical than in chops, +because with them the bones and flap are wasted, whereas in cutlets all +is used up. + +To stew the flap, put it in a stewpan, the fat downwards, sprinkle +pepper and salt, and slice an onion or two over, and set it to fry +gently in its own fat for an hour. Take up the meat, and put half-a-pint +of cold water to the fat, which, when it has risen in a solid cake, take +off, mix a little flour with the gravy which will be found beneath the +fat, add pepper, salt, and some cooked potatoes cut in slices. Cut the +meat into neat squares; let it simmer gently in the gravy with the +potatoes for an hour. + + +ROULADES OF MUTTON. + +Remove the fillet from a fine loin of mutton, trim away every particle +of skin, fat, and gristle. Flatten the fillet with a cutlet-bat, and cut +it lengthways into slices as thin as possible; divide these into neat +pieces about three inches long. Sprinkle each with pepper, salt, and +finely-chopped parsley, roll them up tightly, then dip in beaten egg, +and afterwards in finely-sifted bread-crumbs mixed with an equal +quantity of flour and highly seasoned with pepper and salt. As each +roulade is thus prepared place it on a game-skewer, three or four on +each skewer. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a small frying-pan, and +cook the roulades in it. + + +MUTTON COLLOPS. + +Cut neat thin slices from a leg of either roasted or boiled mutton, dip +them in yolk of egg and in fine dry bread-crumbs to which a little +flour, pepper, and salt have been added. Heat enough butter in a small +frying-pan to just cover the bottom, put in the slices of mutton and +cook them very slowly, first on one side then on the other, until they +are brown. Garnish the dish on which the mutton is served with some +fried potatoes or potato chips. + + +MUTTON SAUTÉ. + +Put a little butter or bacon fat in the frying-pan, sprinkle pepper and +salt over slices of cold mutton, and let them get hot very slowly. The +mutton must be frequently turned, and never allowed to fry. When turned +in the pan for the last time sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the +upper side; remove the slices carefully on to a hot dish, pour the fat +in the pan over, and serve. + + +COLD MUTTON POTTED. + +Cut up the mutton, being careful to free it from all sinew and skin; +chop or pound it with half its weight of cooked bacon until it is as +fine as desired. Season with a little pepper, salt, and allspice, put it +into a jar, which set in a saucepan of water over the fire until the +meat is hot through. When taken up stir occasionally until cool, then +press it into little pots, and pour clarified butter or mutton fat over +the top. If liked, a little essence of anchovy may be added to the +seasoning. + + +MUTTON PIES. + +Mince a quarter of a pound of underdone mutton, taking care to have it +free from skin and fat. Mix with it a tablespoonful of rich gravy--that +which is found under a cake of dripping from a joint is particularly +suitable for this purpose--add a few drops of essence of anchovy, a +pinch of cayenne pepper, and a small teaspoonful of minced parsley. If +necessary add salt. + +Line four patty-pans with puff paste, divide the mutton into equal +portions and put it into the pans, cover each with a lid of paste, and +bake in a quick oven for half-an-hour. + + +OX BRAIN. + +Having carefully washed the brain, boil it very fast, in order to harden +it, in well-seasoned gravy. When it is done, take it out of the gravy +and set it aside until cold. Cut it either in slices or in halves, dip +each piece in egg, then in bread-crumbs well seasoned with dried and +sifted parsley, pepper, and salt, fry them in a little butter until +brown. The gravy having become cold, take off the fat, and boil it in a +stewpan without a lid until it is reduced to a small quantity; pour it +round the brain, and serve. + + +BRAIN FRITTERS. + +Carefully wash an ox brain, and boil it for a quarter of an hour in +well-seasoned stock. When the brain is cold, cut it into slices as thin +as possible, dip each of them in batter, drop them as you do them into a +stewpan half-full of fat at a temperature of 430°, or that which will +brown instantly a piece of bread dipped into it. To make the batter, mix +two large tablespoonfuls of fine flour with four of cold water, stir in +a tablespoonful of dissolved butter or of fine oil, the yolk of an egg, +and a pinch of salt and pepper; when ready to use, beat the white of the +egg to a strong froth, and mix with it. Do not fry more than two +fritters at once; as you take them up, throw them on paper to absorb any +grease clinging to them, serve on a napkin or ornamental dish-paper. If +this recipe is closely followed, the fritters will be light, crisp, +delicate morsels, melting in the mouth, and form besides a very pretty +dish. Garnish with fried parsley; take care the parsley is thoroughly +dry, put it into a small frying-basket, and immerse it for an instant in +the fat in which the fritters are to be cooked. Turn it out on paper, +dry, and serve. + + +MARROW TOAST. + +Let the butcher break up a marrow-bone. Take out the marrow in as large +pieces as possible, and put them into a stewpan with a little boiling +water, rather highly salted. When the marrow has boiled for a minute, +drain the water away through a fine strainer. Have ready a slice of +lightly-toasted bread, place the marrow on it, and put it into a Dutch +oven before the fire for five minutes, or until it is done. Sprinkle +over it a little pepper and salt, and a small teaspoonful of parsley, +chopped fine. The toast must be served very hot. + + +CHICKEN IN ASPIC JELLY. + +Cut the white part of a cold boiled chicken, and as many similar pieces +of cold ham, into neat rounds, not larger than a florin. Run a little +aspic jelly into a fancy border mould, allow it to set, and arrange a +decoration of boiled carrot and white savoury custard cut crescent +shape, dipping each piece in melted aspic. Pour in a very little more +jelly, and when it is set place the chicken and ham round alternately, +with a sprig of chervil, or small salad, here and there. Put in a very +small quantity of aspic to keep this in place, then, when nearly set, +sufficient to cover it. Arrange another layer, this time first of ham +then of chicken, fix them in the same way, and fill up the mould with +aspic jelly. When the dish is turned out fill the centre with cold green +peas, nicely seasoned, and garnish round with chopped aspic and little +stars of savoury custard. To make this, soak a quarter of an ounce of +Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of milk, dissolve it over the fire, and stir +in a gill of thick cream, season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt, +and, if liked, a little grate of nutmeg. Pour the custard on to a large +dish, and when cold cut it into the required shapes. + + +VEAL CUTLETS IN WHITE SAUCE. + +Cut six or seven cutlets, about half-an-inch thick, from a neck of veal, +braise them in half-a-pint of good white stock with an onion, a small +bunch of herbs, a bacon bone, and two or three peppercorns, until they +are done. Let the cutlets get cool in the liquor, then drain them. +Strain the liquor and make a white sauce with it; add a tablespoonful of +thick cream and a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved in +a gill of milk; season with salt and cayenne pepper, stirring +occasionally until quite cold. Dip the cutlets in, smoothly coating one +side, and before the sauce sets decorate them with very narrow strips of +truffle in the form of a star. Cut as many pieces of cooked tongue or +ham as there are cutlets, dish them alternately in a circle on a border +of aspic, fill the centre with a salad composed of all kinds of cold +cooked vegetables, cut with a pea-shaped cutter and seasoned with oil, +vinegar, pepper, and salt. Garnish with aspic jelly cut lozenge shape +and sprigs of chervil. + + +KIDNEYS SAUTÉS. + +Like many other articles of diet, kidneys within the last ten years have +been doubled in price, and are so scarce as to be regarded as luxuries. +The method of cooking them generally in use is extravagant, and renders +them tasteless and indigestible. Kidneys should never be cooked +rapidly, and those persons who cannot eat them slightly underdone should +forego them. One kidney dressed as directed in the following recipe will +go as far as two cooked in the ordinary manner--an instance, if one were +needed, of the economy of well-prepared food. + +Choose fine large kidneys, skin them and cut each the round way into +thin slices: each kidney should yield from ten to twelve slices. Have +ready a tablespoonful of flour highly seasoned with pepper and salt and +well mixed together; dip each piece of kidney in it. Cut some neat thin +squares of streaked bacon, fry them _very slowly_ in a little butter; +when done, put them on the dish for serving, and keep hot whilst you +_sauté_ the kidneys, which put into the fat the bacon was cooked in. In +about a minute the gravy will begin to rise on the upper side, then turn +the kidneys and let them finish cooking slowly; when they are done, as +they will be in three to four minutes, the gravy will again begin to +rise on the side which is uppermost. Put the kidneys on the dish with +the bacon, and pour over them a spoonful or two of plain beef gravy, or +water thickened with a little flour, boiled and mixed with the fat and +gravy from the kidneys in the frying-pan. If there is too much fat in +the pan, pour it away before boiling up the gravy. Serve the kidneys on +a hot-water dish. + + +TINNED KIDNEYS WITH MUSHROOMS. + +(_Tomoana Brand._) + +Dry a half-tin of champignons in a cloth, or, if convenient, prepare a +similar quantity of fresh button mushrooms; add to these a few pieces +of dried mushrooms, previously soaked for ten minutes in tepid water, +put them into a stewpan with a slice of butter, and stir constantly for +six minutes, then add two or three kidneys cut in small neat pieces, in +the shape of dice is best, and continue stirring until the kidneys are +hot through, taking care to do them slowly; at the last moment season +with pepper and salt, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried +sippets of bread. + + +KIDNEYS WITH PICCALILLI SAUCE. + +(_Tomoana Brand._) + +Take the kidneys out of the gravy, and cut them into six slices. Mix a +small teaspoonful of curry powder with three teaspoonfuls of fine flour +and a small pinch of salt. Dip each slice in this mixture, and when all +are done put them in the frying-pan with a little butter, and let them +get slowly hot through. When done, put the kidneys in the centre of a +hot dish, and pour round them a sauce made as follows: Boil up the gravy +of the kidneys, and stir into it sufficient minced piccalilli pickles to +make it quite thick, add a teaspoonful of flour to a tablespoonful of +the piccalilli vinegar, stir into the sauce, and when all has boiled up +together, pour it round the kidneys. + + +BROILED KIDNEYS. + +These are quite an epicure's dish, and care must be taken to cook them +slowly. Having skinned the kidneys (they must not be split or cut) dip +them for a moment in boiling fat, place them on the gridiron over a +slow fire, turning them every minute. They will take ten to fifteen +minutes to cook, and will be done as soon as the gravy begins to run. +Place them on a hot dish rubbed over with butter, salt and pepper them +rather highly. It must be understood that kidneys thus cooked ought to +have the gravy in them, and that when they are cut at table it should +run from them freely and in abundance. + + +LAMB'S FRY. + +A really proper fry should consist not only of sweetbreads and liver, +but of the heart, melt, brains, frill, and kidneys, each of which +requires a different treatment. It is quite as easy to cook a fry +properly as to flour and fry it hard and over-brown, as is too +frequently done. Trim the sweetbreads neatly, and simmer them for a +quarter of an hour in good white stock with an onion. When they are done +take them up and put the brains in the gravy, allowing them to boil as +fast as possible in order to harden them; let them get cold, then cut +into slices, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry with the sweetbread in a +little butter. After the brains are taken out of the gravy, put the +slices of heart and melt in, and let them stew slowly until tender. When +they are ready, flour them, and fry with the liver and frill until +brown. Lastly, put the kidneys, cut in slices, into the pan, and very +gently fry for about a minute. Shake a little flour onto the pan, stir +it about until it begins to brown; then pour on to it the gravy, in +which the sweetbreads, etc., were stewed, see it is nicely seasoned, +and pour round the fry, which should be neatly arranged in the centre of +the dish. Garnish with fried parsley. + + +LAMB'S SWEETBREADS. + +These make an admirable breakfast dish, and can be partly prepared +over-night. Trim and wash the sweetbreads, put them into a saucepan with +sufficient well-flavoured stock to cover them, a minced onion and a +sprig of lemon-thyme; boil gently for fifteen minutes, or a little +longer if necessary. Take them up, drain, dip in egg and finely-sifted +bread-crumbs mixed with a little flour, pepper, and salt. Fry very +carefully, so as not to make it brown or hard, some small slices of +bacon, keep warm whilst you fry the sweetbreads in the fat which has run +from it, adding, if required, a little piece of butter or lard. For a +breakfast dish, the sweetbreads should be served without gravy, but if +for an _entrée_ the liquor in which they were stewed, with slight +additions and a little thickening, can be poured round them in the dish. +Calves' sweetbreads are prepared in the same manner as the above, and +can either be fried, finished in a Dutch oven, or served white, with +parsley and butter, or white sauce. + + +VEAL À LA CASSEROLE. + +For this dish a piece of the fillet about three inches thick will be +required, and weighing from two to three pounds. It should be cut from +one side of the leg, without bone; but sometimes butchers object to +give it, as cutting in this manner interferes with cutlets. In such a +case a piece must be chosen near the knuckle, and the bone be taken out +before cooking. For a larger party, a thick slice of the fillet, +weighing about four pounds, will be found advantageous. + +With a piece of tape tie the veal into a round shape, flour, and put it +into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, fry until it becomes brown +on all sides. Then put half a pint of good gravy, nicely seasoned with +pepper and salt, cover the stewpan closely, and set it on the stove to +cook very slowly for at least four hours. When done, the veal will be +exquisitely tender, full of flavour, but not the least ragged. Take the +meat up, and keep hot whilst the gravy is reduced, by boiling without +the lid of the saucepan, to a rich glaze, which pour over the meat and +serve. + + +BROWN FRICASSÉE OF CHICKEN. + +This is a brown fricassée of chicken, and is an excellent dish. No doubt +the reason it is so seldom given is that, although easy enough to do, it +requires care and attention in finishing it. Many of the best cooks, in +the preparation of chickens for fricassée, cut them up before cooking, +but we prefer to boil them whole, and afterwards to divide them, as the +flesh thus is less apt to shrink and get dry. The chicken can be slowly +boiled in plain water, with salt and onions, or, as is much better, in +white broth of any kind. When the chicken is tender cut it up; take the +back, and the skin, pinions of the wings, and pieces which do not seem +nice enough for a superior dish, and boil them in a quart of the liquor +in which it was boiled. Add mushroom trimmings, onions, and a sprig of +thyme; boil down to one-half, then strain, take off all fat, and stir +over the fire with the yolk of two eggs and an ounce of fine flour until +thickened. Dip each piece of chicken in some of this sauce, and when +they are cold pass them through fine bread-crumbs, then in the yolk of +egg, and crumb again. Fry carefully in hot fat. Dish the chicken with a +border of fried parsley, and the remainder of the gravy poured round the +dish. This dish is generally prepared by French cooks by frying the +chicken in oil, and seasoning with garlic; but unless the taste of the +guests is well known, it is safer to follow the above recipe. + + +CHICKEN SAUTÉ. + +Put any of the meat of the breast or of the wings without bone into a +frying-pan with a little fresh butter or bacon fat. Cook them very +slowly, turning repeatedly; if the meat has not been previously cooked +it will take ten minutes, and five minutes if a _réchauffé_. Sprinkle +with pepper, and serve with mushrooms or broiled bacon. The legs of +cooked chickens are excellent _sautés_, but they should be boned before +they are put into the pan. + + +POTATO HASH. + +Put some cold potatoes chopped into the frying-pan with a little fat, +stir them about for five minutes, then add to them an equal quantity of +cold meat, cut into neat little squares, season nicely with pepper and +salt, fry gently, stirring all the time, until thoroughly hot through. + + +DRY CURRY. + +Fry a minced onion in butter until lightly browned, cut up the flesh of +two cooked chicken legs, or any other tender meat, into dice, mix this +with the onions, and stir them together over the fire until the meat is +hot through; sprinkle over it about a small teaspoonful of curry-powder, +and salt to taste. Having thoroughly mixed the meat with the +curry-powder, pour over it a tablespoonful of milk or cream, and stir +over the fire until the moisture has dried up. Celery salt may be used +instead of plain salt, and some persons add a few drops of lemon-juice +when the curry is finished. + + +CROQUETTES. + +Croquettes of all kinds, fish, game, poultry or any delicate meats, can +be successfully made on the following model: Whatever material is used +must be finely minced or pounded. Care is required in making the sauce, +if it is too thin it is difficult to mould the croquettes, and ice will +be required to set it. Croquettes of game without any flavouring, except +a little salt and cayenne, are generally acceptable as a breakfast dish. +Preserved lobster makes very good croquettes for an _entrée_, and small +scraps of any kind can thus be made into a very good dish. Put one ounce +of fine flour into a stewpan with half a gill of cold water, stir this +over a slow fire very rapidly until it forms a paste, then add one ounce +of butter, and stir until well incorporated. Mix in a small teaspoonful +of essence of shrimps or anchovies, with a pinch of salt and pepper. +Take the stewpan off the fire, and stir the yolk of an egg briskly into +the sauce; thoroughly mix it with half-a-pound of pounded fish or meat, +spread it out on a plate until it is cool. Flour your hands, take a +small piece of the croquette mixture, roll into a ball or into the shape +of a cork, then pass it through very finely-sifted and dried +bread-crumbs. Repeat the process until all the mixture is used; put the +croquettes as you do them into a wire frying-basket, which shake very +gently, when all are placed in it, in order to free them from +superfluous crumbs. Have ready a stewpan half-full of boiling fat, dip +the basket in, gently moving it about, and taking care the croquettes +are covered with fat. In about a minute they will become a delicate +brown, and will then be done. Turn them on a paper to absorb any +superfluous fat, serve them on a napkin or ornamental dish paper. No +more croquettes than will lie on the bottom of the basket without +touching each other should be fried at once. + + +MEAT CAKES À L'ITALIENNE. + +Mix very fine any kind of cold meat or chicken, taking care to have it +free from skin and gristle, add to it a quarter of its weight of sifted +bread-crumbs, a few drops of essence of anchovy, a little parsley, +pepper and salt, and sufficient egg to moisten the whole. Flour your +hands, roll the meat into little cakes about the size of a half-crown +piece, then flatten the cakes with the back of a spoon, dip them in egg +and fine bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little butter until lightly +browned on the outside. Put them on a hot dish and garnish with boiled +Italian paste. + + +RAISED PORK PIE. + +Take a pound of meat, fat and lean, from the chump end of a fine +fore-loin of pork, cut it into neat dice, mix a tablespoonful of water +with it, and season with a large teaspoonful of salt and a small one of +black pepper. To make the crust, boil a quarter of a pound of lard or +clarified dripping in a gill and a half of water, and pour it hot on to +one pound of flour, to which a good pinch of salt has been added. Mix +into a stiff paste, pinch off enough of it to make the lid, and keep it +hot. Flour your board and work the paste into a ball, then with the +knuckles of your right hand press a hole in the centre, and mould the +paste into a round or oval shape, taking care to keep it a proper +thickness. Having put in the meat, join the lid to the pie, which raise +lightly with both hands so as to keep it a good high shape, cut round +the edge with a sharp knife, and make the trimmings into leaves to +ornament the lid; and having placed these on, with a rose in the centre, +put the pie on a floured baking-sheet and brush it over with yolk of +egg. + +The crust of the pie should be cool and set before putting it into the +oven, which should be a moderate heat. When the gravy boils out the pie +is done. An hour and a half will bake a pie of this size. Make a little +gravy with the bones and trimmings of the pork, and to half-a-pint of it +add a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and nicely season with +pepper and salt. When the pie is cold remove the rose from the top, make +a little hole, insert a small funnel, and pour in as much gravy as the +pie will hold. Replace the rose on the top, and put the pie on a dish +with a cut paper. + +If preferred, the pie can be made in a tin mould; but the crust is nicer +raised by the hand. A great point to observe is to begin moulding the +crust whilst it is hot, and to get it finished as quickly as possible. + + +VEAL AND HAM PIE. + +Prepare the crust as for a pork pie. Cut a pound of veal cutlet and a +quarter of a pound of ham into dice, season with a teaspoonful of salt +and another of black pepper, put the meat into the crust, and finish as +for pork pie. Add a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine--previously +soaked in cold water, and then dissolved--to a teacupful of gravy made +from the veal trimmings. + + +PORK SAUSAGES. + +When a pig is cut up in the country, sausages are usually made of the +trimmings; but when the meat has to be bought, the chump-end of a +fore-loin will be found to answer best. The fine well-fed meat of a +full-grown pig, known in London as "hog-meat," is every way preferable +to that called "dairy-fed pork." The fat should be nearly in equal +proportion to the lean, but of course this matter must be arranged to +suit the taste of those who will eat the sausages. If young pork is +used, remove the skin as thinly as you can--it is useful for various +purposes--and then with a sharp knife cut all the flesh from the bones, +take away all sinew and gristle, and cut the fat and lean into strips. +Some mincing-machines require the meat longer than others; for Kent's +Combination, cut it into pieces about an inch long and half-an-inch +thick. To each pound of meat put half a gill of gravy made from the +bones, or water will do; then mix equally with it two ounces of +bread-crumbs, a large teaspoonful of salt, a small one of black pepper, +dried sage, and a pinch of allspice. This seasoning should be well mixed +with the bread, as the meat will then be flavoured properly throughout +the mass. Arrange the skin on the filler, tie it at the end, put the +meat, a little at a time, into the hopper, turn the handle of the +machine briskly, and take care the skin is only lightly filled. When the +sausages are made, tie the skin at the other end, pinch them into shape, +and then loop them by passing one through another, giving a twist to +each as you do them. Sausage-skins, especially if preserved, should be +well soaked before using, or they may make the sausages too salt. It is +a good plan to put the skin on the water-tap and allow the water to run +through it, as thus it will be well washed on the inside. Fifteen to +twenty minutes should be allowed for frying sausages, and when done they +should be nicely browned. A little butter or lard is best for frying, +and some pieces of light bread may be fried in it when the sausages are +done, and placed round the dish by way of garnish. Cooks cannot do +better than remember Dr. Kitchener's directions for frying sausages. +After saying, "They are best when quite fresh made," he adds: "put a bit +of butter or dripping into a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is melted, +before it gets hot, put in the sausages, and shake the pan for a minute, +and keep turning them. Be careful not to break or prick them in so +doing. Fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on +all sides. The secret of frying sausages is to let them get hot very +gradually; they then will not break if they are not stale. The common +practice to prevent them bursting is to prick them with a fork, but this +lets the gravy out." + + + + +PUDDINGS. + +*** + + +CUSTARD PUDDING. + +We give this pudding first because it affords an opportunity for giving +hints on making milk puddings generally, and because, properly made, +there is no more delicious pudding than this. It is besides most useful +and nutritious, not only for the dinner of healthy people, but for +children and invalids. But few cooks, however, make it properly; as a +rule too many eggs are used, to which the milk is added cold, and the +pudding is baked in a quick oven. The consequence is that the pudding +curdles and comes to table swimming in whey; or, even if this does not +happen, the custard is full of holes and is tough. + +In the first place, milk for all puddings with eggs should be poured on +to the eggs boiling hot; in the next, the baking must be very slowly +done, if possible, as directed in the recipe; the dish containing the +pudding to be placed in another half-full of water. This, of course, +prevents the baking proceeding too rapidly, and also prevents the +pudding acquiring a sort of burned greasy flavour, which is injurious +for invalids. Lastly, too many eggs should not be used; the quantity +given, two to the pint of milk, is in all cases quite sufficient, and +will make a fine rich custard. + +We never knew a pudding curdle, even with London milk a day old, if all +these directions were observed; but it is almost needless to say, that +the pudding made with new rich milk is much finer than one of inferior +milk. + +Boil a pint and a half of milk with two ounces of lump sugar, or rather +more if a sweet pudding is liked, and pour it boiling hot on three eggs +lightly beaten--that is, just sufficiently so to mix whites and yolks. +Flavour the custard with nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, or anything which +may be preferred and pour it into a tart-dish. Place this dish in +another three-parts full of boiling water, and bake slowly for forty +minutes, or until the custard is firm. There is no need to butter the +dish if the pudding is baked as directed. + + +SOUFFLÉ PUDDING. + +This is a delicious pudding, and to insure its success great care and +exactness are required. In the first place, to avoid failure it is +necessary that the butter, flour, sugar, and milk, should be stirred +long enough over a moderate fire to make a stiff paste, because if this +is thin the eggs will separate, and the pudding when done resemble a +batter with froth on the top. + +Before beginning to make the pudding, prepare a pint tin by buttering it +inside and fastening round it with string on the outside a buttered band +of writing-paper, which will stand two inches above the tin and prevent +the pudding running over as it rises. Melt an ounce of butter in a +stewpan, add one ounce of sifted sugar, stir in an ounce and a half of +Vienna flour, mix well together, add a gill of milk, and stir over the +fire with a wooden spoon until it boils and is thick. Take the stewpan +off the fire, beat up the yolks of three eggs with half a teaspoonful of +extract of vanilla, and stir a little at a time into the paste, to +insure both being thoroughly mixed together. Put a small pinch of salt +to the whites of four eggs, whip them as stiff as possible, and stir +lightly into the pudding, which pour immediately into the prepared +mould. Have ready a saucepan with enough boiling water to reach a little +way up the tin, which is best placed on a trivet, so that the water +cannot touch the paper band. Let the pudding steam very gently for +twenty minutes, or until it is firm in the middle, and will turn out. + +For sauce, boil two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam in a gill of water, +with two ounces of lump sugar, stir in a wine-glassful of sherry, add a +few drops of Nelson's Vanilla Flavouring, pour over the pudding and +serve. + + +OMELET SOUFFLÉ. + +Put the yolks of two eggs into a basin with an ounce of sifted sugar and +a few drops of Nelson's Vanilla Essence; beat the yolks and sugar +together for six minutes, or until the mixture becomes thick. Then whip +the whites very stiff, so that they will turn out of the basin like a +jelly. Mix the yolks and whites lightly together, have ready an ounce of +butter dissolved in the omelet-pan, pour in the eggs, hold this pan over +a slow fire for two minutes, then put the frying-pan into a quick oven +and bake until the omelet has risen; four minutes ought to be +sufficient to finish the omelet in the oven; when done, slide it on to a +warm dish, double it, sift sugar over, and serve instantly. + + +SPONGE SOUFFLÉ. + +Cover the bottom of a tart-dish with sponge-cakes, pour over a little +brandy and sherry; put in a moderate oven until hot, then pour on the +cakes an egg whip made of two packets of Nelson's Albumen, beaten to a +strong froth with a little sugar. Bake for a quarter of an hour in a +slow oven. + + +CABINET PUDDING. + +Butter very thickly a pint pudding-basin, and cover it neatly with +stoned muscatel raisins, the outer side of them being kept to the basin. +Lightly fill up the basin with alternate layers of sponge-cake and +ratafias, and when ready to steam the pudding, pour by degrees over the +cake a custard made of half-a-pint of boiling milk, an egg, three lumps +of sugar, a tablespoonful of brandy, and a little lemon flavouring. +Cover the basin with a paper cap and steam or boil gently for +three-quarters of an hour. Great care should be taken not to boil +puddings of this class fast, as it renders them tough and flavourless. + + +BRANDY SAUCE. + +Mix a tablespoonful of fine flour with a gill of cold water, put it into +a gill of boiling water, and, having stirred over the fire until it is +thick, add the yolk of an egg. Continue stirring for five minutes, and +sweeten with two ounces of castor sugar. Mix a wine-glass of brandy with +two tablespoonfuls of sherry, stir it into the sauce, and pour it round +the pudding. If liked, a grate of nutmeg may be added to the sauce, and, +if required to be rich, an ounce of butter may be stirred in before the +brandy. + + +WARWICKSHIRE PUDDING. + +Butter a pint-and-a-half tart-dish, lay in it a layer of light bread, +cut thin, on this sprinkle a portion of two ounces of shred suet, and of +one ounce of lemon candied-peel, chopped very fine. Fill the dish +lightly with layers of bread, sprinkling over each a little of the suet +and peel. + +Boil a pint of milk with two ounces of sugar, pour it on two eggs, +beaten for a minute, and add it to the pudding just before putting it +into the oven; a little of Nelson's Essence of Lemon or Almonds may be +added to the custard. Bake the pudding in a very slow oven for an hour. + + +VANILLA RUSK PUDDING. + +Dissolve, but do not oil, an ounce of butter, mix in a quarter of a +pound of sifted sugar, stir over the fire for a few minutes, add an egg +well beaten, and half a teaspoonful of Nelson's Vanilla Extract, or as +much as will give a good flavour to the paste, which continue stirring +until it gets thick. + +Spread four slices of rusk with the vanilla paste, put them in a +buttered tart-dish. Boil half-a-pint of new milk, pour it on to an egg +well beaten, then add it to the rusk, and put the pudding to bake in a +slow oven for an hour. Turn out when done, and sift sugar over the +pudding. If a superior pudding is desired, boil a tablespoonful of +apricot jam in a teacupful of plain sugar syrup, add a little vanilla +flavouring, and pour over the pudding at the moment of serving. + + +JUBILEE PUDDING. + +Pour a pint of boiling milk on two ounces of Rizine, stir over the fire +for ten minutes, add half an ounce of butter, the yolks of two eggs, an +ounce of castor sugar, and six drops of Nelson's Essence of Almonds. Put +the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven for a +quarter of an hour. When taken from the oven, spread over it a thin +layer of apricot jam, and on this the whites of the eggs beaten to a +strong froth, with half an ounce of castor sugar. Return the pudding to +a slow oven for about four minutes, in order to set the meringue. + + +NATAL PUDDING. + +Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water +until it is soft, when add the grated peel of half a lemon, the juice of +two lemons, the beaten yolks of three eggs, and six ounces of lump sugar +dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling water. Stir the mixture over the +fire until it thickens, taking care that it does not boil. Have ready +the whites of the eggs well whisked, stir all together, pour into a +fancy mould, which put into a cold place until the pudding is set. + + +QUEEN'S PUDDING. + +Half-a-pound of bread-crumbs, a pint of new milk, two ounces of butter, +the yolks of four eggs, and a little Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Boil the +bread-crumbs and milk together, then add the sugar, butter, and eggs; +when these are well mixed, bake in a tart-dish until a light brown. Then +put a layer of strawberry jam, and on the top of this the whites of the +eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with a little sifted sugar. Smooth over +the meringue with a knife dipped in boiling water, and bake for ten +minutes in a slow oven. + + +CHOCOLATE PUDDING. + +Boil half-a-pound of light stale bread in a pint of new milk. Stir +continually until it becomes a thick paste; then add an ounce of butter, +a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and two large teaspoonfuls of +Schweitzer's Cocoatina, with a little Nelson's Essence of Vanilla. Take +the pudding off the fire, and mix in, first, the yolks of three eggs, +then the whites beaten to a strong froth. Put into a buttered tart-dish +and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. + + +COCOA-NUT PUDDING. + +Choose a large nut, with the milk in it, grate it finely, mix it with an +equal weight of finely-sifted sugar, half its weight of butter, the +yolks of four eggs, and the milk of the nut. Let the butter be beaten to +a cream, and when all the other ingredients are mixed with it, add the +whites of the eggs, whisked to a strong froth. Line a tart-dish with +puff-paste, put in the pudding mixture and bake slowly for an hour. +Butter a sheet of paper and cover the top of the pudding, as it should +not get brown. + + +RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING. + +Stew raspberries and currants with sugar and water, taking care to have +plenty of juice. Cut the crumb of a stale tin-loaf in slices about +half-an-inch thick and put in a pie-dish, leaving room for the bread to +swell, with alternate layers of fruit, until the dish is full. Then put +in as much of the juice as you can without causing the bread to rise. +When it is soaked up put in the rest of the juice, cover with a plate, +and let the pudding stand until the next day. When required for use turn +out and pour over it a good custard or cream. The excellence of this +pudding depends on there being plenty of syrup to soak the bread +thoroughly. This is useful when pastry is objected to. + + +THE CAPITAL PUDDING. + +Shred a quarter of a pound of suet, mix it with half a pound of flour, +one small teaspoonful each of baking-powder and carbonate of soda, then +add four tablespoonfuls of strawberry or raspberry jam, and stir well +with a gill of milk. Boil for four hours in a high mould, and serve with +wine or fruit sauce. The latter is made by stirring jam into thin butter +sauce. + + +ITALIAN FRITTERS. + +Cut slices of very light bread half-an-inch thick, with a round +paste-cutter, divide them into neat shapes all alike in size. Throw them +into boiling fat and fry quickly of a rich golden brown, dry them on +paper, place on a dish, and pour over orange or lemon syrup, or any kind +of preserve made hot. Honey or golden syrup may be used for those who +like them. + + +DUCHESS OF FIFE'S PUDDING. + +Boil two ounces of rice in a pint of milk until quite tender. When done, +mix with it a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked in a +tablespoonful of water. Line the inside of a plain mould with the rice, +and when it is set fill it up with half-a-pint of cream, whipped very +stiff and mixed with some nice preserve, stewed fruit, or marmalade. +After standing some hours turn out the pudding, and pour over it a +delicate syrup made of the same fruit as that put inside the rice. + + +WELSH CHEESECAKE. + +Dry a quarter of a pound of fine flour, mix with two ounces of sifted +loaf-sugar, and add it by degrees to two ounces of butter beaten to a +cream; then work in three well-beaten eggs, flavour with Nelson's +Essence of Lemon. Line patty-pans with short crust, put in the above +mixture, and bake in a quick oven. + + +FRIAR'S OMELET. + +Make six moderate-sized apples into sauce, sweeten with powdered +loaf-sugar, stir in two ounces of butter, and when cold, mix with two +well-beaten eggs. Butter a tart-dish, and strew the bottom and sides +thickly with bread-crumbs, then put in the apple-sauce, and cover with +bread-crumbs to the depth of a quarter of an inch, put a little +dissolved butter on the top, and bake for an hour in a good oven. When +done, turn it out, and sift sugar over it. + + +COMPOTE OF APPLES WITH FRIED BREAD. + +Bake a dozen good cooking apples, scrape out the pulp, boil this with +half-a-pound of sugar to a pound of pulp, until it becomes stiff. It +must be stirred all the time it is boiling. When done, place the compote +in the centre of the dish, piling it up high. Have ready some triangular +pieces of fried bread, arrange some like a crown on the top, the +remainder at the bottom of the compote. Have ready warmed half a pot of +apricot marmalade mixed with a little plain sugar-syrup, and pour it +over the compote, taking care that each piece of bread is well covered. + + +APPLE FOOL. + +Bake good sharp apples; when done, remove the pulp and rub it through a +sieve, sweeten and flavour with Nelson's Essence of Lemon; when cold add +to it a custard made of eggs and milk, or milk or cream sweetened will +be very good. Keep the fool quite thick. Serve with rusks or sponge +finger biscuits. + + +APPLE MERINGUE. + +Beat up two packets of Nelson's Albumen with six small teaspoonfuls of +water, and stir them into half-a-pound of stiff apple-sauce flavoured +with Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Put the meringue on a bright tin or +silver dish, pile it up high in a rocky shape, and bake in a quick oven +for ten minutes. + + +STEWED PEARS WITH RICE. + +Put four large pears cut in halves into a stewpan with a pint of claret, +Burgundy, or water, and eight ounces of sugar, simmer them until +perfectly tender. Take out the pears and let the syrup boil down to +half; flavour it with vanilla. Have ready a teacupful of rice, nicely +boiled in milk and sweetened, spread it on a dish, lay the pears on it, +pour the syrup over, and serve. This is best eaten cold. + + +COMPOTE OF PRUNES. + +Wash the fruit in warm water, put it on to boil in cold water in which +lump sugar has been dissolved. To a pound of prunes put half-a-pound of +sugar, a pint of water, with the thin rind and juice of a lemon. Let +them simmer for an hour, or until so tender that they will mash when +pressed. Strain the fruit and set it aside. Boil the syrup until it +becomes very thick and is on the point of returning to sugar, then pour +it over the prunes, turn them about so that they become thoroughly +coated, taking care not to break them, let them lie for twelve hours, +then pile up on a glass dish for dessert. + + + + +ON JELLY-MAKING. + +*** + + +It is within the memory of many persons that jelly was only to be made +from calves' feet by a slow, difficult, and expensive process. There is, +indeed, a story told of the wife of a lawyer, early in this century, +having appropriated some valuable parchment deeds to make jelly, when +she could not procure calves' feet. But the secret that it could be so +made was carefully guarded by the possessors of it, and it was not until +the introduction of Nelson's Gelatine that people were brought to +believe that jelly could be made other than in the old-fashioned way. +Even now there is a lingering superstition that there is more +nourishment in jelly made of calves' feet than that made from Gelatine. +The fact is, however, that Gelatine is equally nutritious from whatever +source it is procured. Foreign Gelatine, as is well known, does +sometimes contain substances which, if not absolutely deleterious, are +certainly undesirable; but Messrs. Nelson warrant their Gelatine of +equal purity with that derived from calves' feet. + +It is unnecessary to enlarge on the economy both in time and money of +using Gelatine, or the more certain result obtained from it. If the +recipe given for making "a quart of jelly" is closely followed, a most +excellent and brilliant jelly will be produced. Many cooks get worried +about their jelly-bags, and are much divided in opinion as to the best +kind to use. It is not a point of great consequence whether a felt or +close flannel is selected. We incline to the latter, which must be of +good quality, and if the material is not thick it should be used double. + +When put away otherwise than perfectly clean and dry, or when stored in +a damp place, flannel bags are sure to acquire a strong mouldy flavour, +which is communicated to all jelly afterwards strained through them. + +The great matter, therefore, to observe in respect of the jelly-bag, is +that it be put away in a proper condition, that is, perfectly free from +all stiffness and from any smell whatever. + +As soon as the bag is done with, turn it inside out, throw it into a pan +of boiling water, stir it about with a spoon until it is cleansed. Then, +have another pan of boiling water, and again treat the bag in the same +manner. Add as much cold water as will enable you to wring the bag out +dry, or it can be wrung out in a cloth. This done, finally rinse in hot +water, wring, and, if possible, dry the bag in the open air. See that it +is perfectly free from smell; if not, wash in very hot water again. Wrap +the bag in several folds of clean paper and keep it in a dry place. + +A thing to be observed is that, if the jelly is allowed to come very +slowly to boiling-point it will be more effectually cleared, as the +impurities of the sugar and the thicker portions of the lemons thus rise +more surely with the egg than if this part of the process is too rapidly +carried out. In straining, if the jelly is well made, it is best to +pour all into the bag at one time, doing it slowly, so as not to break +up the scum more than necessary. Should the jelly not be perfectly +bright on a first straining, it should be kept hot, and slowly poured +again through the bag. The contents of the bag should not be disturbed, +nor should the slightest pressure be applied, as this is certain to +cloud the jelly. If brandy is used, it should be put in after the jelly +is strained, as by boiling both the spirit and flavour of it are lost. + +IN ORDER THAT JELLY MAY TURN OUT WELL, DO NOT PUT IT INTO THE MOULD +UNTIL IT IS ON THE POINT OF SETTING. If attention is paid to this there +will never be any difficulty in getting jelly to turn out of a mould, +and putting it into hot water or using hot cloths will be unnecessary. A +mould should be used as cold as possible, because then when the jelly +comes into contact with it, it is at once set and cannot stick. Any kind +of mould may be used. If the direction to put the jelly in _when just +setting_ is followed, it will turn out as well from an earthenware as +from a copper mould. + +It should be unnecessary to say that the utmost cleanliness is +imperative to insure the perfection of jelly. So delicate a substance +not only contracts any disagreeable flavour, but is rendered cloudy by +the least touch of any greasy spoon, or by a stewpan which has not been +properly cleansed. + + +HOW TO USE GELATINE. + +There are a few points connected with the use of Gelatine for culinary +purposes which cannot be too strongly impressed upon housekeepers and +cooks. + +1. Gelatine should always be soaked in cold water till it is thoroughly +saturated--say, till it is so soft that it will tear with the +fingers--whether this is specified in the recipe or not. + +2. Nelson's Gelatine being cut very fine will soak in about an hour, but +whenever possible it is desirable to give it a longer time. When +convenient, it is a good plan to put Gelatine to soak over-night. It +will then dissolve in liquid below boiling-point. + +When jelly has to be cleared with white of egg do not boil it longer +than necessary. Two minutes is quite sufficient to set the egg and +clarify the jelly. + +Use as little Gelatine as possible; that is to say, never use more than +will suffice to make a jelly strong enough to retain its form when +turned out of the mould. The prejudice against Gelatine which existed in +former years was doubtless caused by persons unacquainted with its +qualities using too large a quantity, and producing a jelly hard, tough, +and unpalatable, which compared very unfavourably with the delicate +jellies they had been accustomed to make from calves' feet, the delicacy +of which arose from the simple fact that the Gelatine derived from +calves' feet is so weak that it is almost impossible to make the jellies +too strong. + +Persons accustomed to use Gelatine will know that its "setting" power is +very much affected by the temperature. In the recipes contained in the +following pages the quantity of Gelatine named is that which experience +has shown to be best suited to the average temperature of this country. +In hot weather and foreign climates a little more Gelatine should be +added. + + +TO MAKE A QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY. + +Soak one ounce of Nelson's Opaque Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water +for two or three hours, and then add the same quantity of boiling water; +stir until dissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons, with +wine and sugar sufficient to make the whole quantity one quart; have +ready the white and shell of an egg, well beaten together, or a packet +of Nelson's Albumen, and stir these briskly into the jelly; boil for two +minutes without stirring it; remove from the fire, allow it to stand two +minutes, and strain through a close flannel bag. Let it be on the point +of setting before putting into the mould. + + +AN ECONOMICAL JELLY. + +For general family use it is not necessary to clear jelly through the +bag, and a quart of excellent jelly can be made as follows: Soak one +ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water for two or three +hours, then add a 3d. packet of Nelson's Citric Acid and three-quarters +of a pound of loaf sugar; pour on half-a-pint of boiling water and +half-a-pint of sherry, orange or other wine (cold), and add one-twelfth +part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of Lemon; stir for a few minutes +before pouring into the moulds. + +The effect of citric acid in the above quantity is to make the jelly +clearer. When this is not of consequence, a third of a packet can be +used, and six ounces of sugar. Wine can be omitted if desired, and water +substituted for it. Ginger-beer makes an excellent jelly for those who +do not wish for wine, and hedozone is also very good. + + +JELLY WITH FRUIT. + +This is an elegant sweetmeat, and with clear jelly and care in moulding, +can be made by inexperienced persons, particularly if Nelson's Bottled +Jelly is used. If the jelly is home-made the recipe for making a "quart +of jelly" will be followed. When the jelly is on the point of setting, +put sufficient into a cold mould to cover the bottom of it. Then place +in the centre, according to taste, any fine fruit you choose, a few +grapes, cherries, strawberries, currants, anything you like, provided it +is not too heavy to break the jelly. Put in another layer of jelly, and +when it is set enough, a little more fruit, then fill up your mould with +jelly, and let it stand for some hours. + + +RIBBON JELLY. + +Soak one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water +for twenty minutes, then add the same quantity of boiling water. Stir +until dissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons, with wine and +sugar sufficient to make the whole quantity one quart. Have ready the +white and shell of an egg, well beaten together, and stir these briskly +into the jelly; then boil for two minutes without stirring, and remove +it from the fire; allow it to stand two minutes, then strain it through +a close flannel bag. Divide the jelly in two equal parts, leaving one +pint of a yellow colour, and adding a few drops of prepared cochineal to +colour the remainder a bright red. Put a small quantity of red jelly +into a mould previously soaked in cold water. Let this set, then pour in +a small quantity of the pale jelly, and repeat this until the mould is +full, taking care that each layer is perfectly firm before pouring in +the other. Put it in a cool place, and the next day turn it out. Or, the +mould may be partly filled with the yellow jelly, and when this is +thoroughly set, fill up with the red. + +Ribbon jelly and jelly of two colours can be made in any pretty fancy +mould (there are many to be had for the purpose); of course one colour +must always be perfectly firm before the other is put in, or the effect +would be spoilt by the two colours running into each other. Ribbon jelly +can be made with two kinds of Nelson's Bottled Jelly. The Sherry will be +used for the pale, and Cherry or Port Wine jelly for the red colour. +Thus an elegant jelly will be made in a few minutes. + + +CLARET JELLY. + +Take one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine, soak for twenty minutes in +half-a-pint of cold water, then dissolve. Add three-quarters of a pound +of sugar, a pot of red-currant jelly, and a bottle of good ordinary +claret, and stir over the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Beat the +whites and shells of three eggs, stir them briskly into the preparation, +boil for two minutes longer, take it off the fire, and when it has stood +for two minutes pass it through the bag. This should be a beautiful red +jelly, and perfectly clear. + + +COFFEE JELLY. + +Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of water for an hour +or more, dissolve it in a pint-and-a-half of boiling water with +half-a-pound of sugar. Clear it with white of egg, and run through a +jelly-bag as directed for making "a quart of brilliant jelly." This +done, stir in a tablespoonful, or rather more if liked, of Allen and +Hanbury's Café Vierge, which is a very fine essence of coffee. Or, +instead of dissolving the Gelatine in water, use strong coffee. + + +COCOA JELLY. + +Make half-a-pint of cocoa from the nibs, taking care to have it clear. +Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of water; add a +quarter of a pound of sugar, dissolve, and clear the jelly with the +whites and shells of two eggs in the usual way. Flavour with Nelson's +Essence of Vanilla after the jelly has been through the bag. + +When a clear jelly is not required, the cocoa can be made of +Schweitzer's Cocoatina, double the quantity required for a beverage +being used. Mix this with half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine and flavour +with vanilla. + + +ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY. + +Cut a small round from the stalk end of each orange, and scoop out the +inside. Throw the skins into cold water for an hour to harden them, +drain, and when quite dry inside, half fill with pink jelly. Put in a +cool place, and when the jelly is firm, fill up with pale jelly or +blanc-mange; set aside again, and cut into quarters before serving. +Arrange with a sprig of myrtle between each quarter. Use lemons instead +of oranges if preferred. + + +ORANGE FRUIT JELLY. + +Boil half-a-pound of lump sugar in a gill of water until melted. Stir in +half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine previously soaked in a gill of cold +water; when it is dissolved beat a little, and let it stand until cold. +Rub four lumps of sugar on the peel of two fine oranges, so as to get +the full and delicate flavour; add this sugar with the juice of a lemon +and sufficient orange juice strained to make half-a-pint to the above. +Beat well together, and when on the point of setting, add the fruit of +two oranges prepared as follows: Peel the oranges, cut away all the +white you can without drawing the juice, divide the orange in quarters, +take out seeds and all pith, and cut the quarters into three or four +pieces. Mix these with the jelly, which at once put into a mould, +allowing it to stand a few hours before turning out. + + +APPLE JELLY. + +Take one pound of apples, peel them with a sharp knife, cut them in two, +take out the core, and cut the fruit into small pieces. Place the apples +in a stewpan, with three ounces of lump sugar, half-a-pint of water, a +small teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, and six drops of Nelson's +Essence of Lemon. Put the stewpan on the fire, and boil the apples till +they are quite tender, stirring occasionally to prevent the fruit +sticking to the bottom of the pan; or the apples can be steamed in a +potato-steamer, afterwards adding lemon-juice and sugar. Soak an ounce +of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it, and when the +apples are cooked to a pulp, place a hair sieve over a basin and rub the +apples through with a wooden spoon; stir the melted Gelatine into the +apples, taking care that it is quite smoothly dissolved. If liked, +colour part of the apples by stirring in half a spoonful of cochineal +colouring. + +Rinse a pint-and-a-half mould in boiling water, and then in cold water; +ornament the bottom of the mould with pistachio nuts cut in small +pieces, or preserved cherries, according to taste. When on the point of +setting put the apples into the mould, and if any part of the apples are +coloured, fill the mould alternately with layers of coloured and plain +apples. Stand the mould aside in a cool place to set the apples, then +turn out the jelly carefully on a dish, and send to table with cream +whipped to a stiff froth. + + +LEMON SPONGE. + +To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add one pint of cold water, let it +stand for twenty minutes, then dissolve it over the fire, add the rind +of two lemons thinly pared, three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar, +and the juice of three lemons; boil all together two minutes, strain it +and let it remain till nearly cold, then add the whites of two eggs well +beaten, and whisk ten minutes, when it will become the consistence of +sponge. Put it lightly into a glass dish immediately, leaving it in +appearance as rocky as possible. + +This favourite sweetmeat is also most easily and successfully made with +Nelson's Lemon Sponge. Dissolve the contents of a tin in half-a-pint of +boiling water, let it stand until it is on the point of setting, then +whip it until very white and thick. + +If any difficulty is experienced in getting the Lemon Sponge out of the +tin, set it in a saucepan of boiling water for fifteen minutes. In cold +weather also, should the sponge be slow in dissolving, put it in a +stewpan with the boiling water and stir until dissolved; but do not boil +it. It is waste of time to begin whipping until the sponge is on the +point of setting. A gill of sherry may be added if liked, when the +whipping of the sponge is nearly completed. Put the sponge into a mould +rinsed with cold water. It will be ready for use in two or three hours. +A very pretty effect is produced by ornamenting this snow-white sponge +with preserved barberries, or cherries, and a little angelica cut into +pieces to represent leaves. + + +STRENGTHENING JELLY. + +Put one ounce each of sago, ground rice, pearl barley, and Nelson's +Gelatine--previously soaked in cold water--into a saucepan, with two +quarts of water; boil gently till the liquid is reduced one-half. Strain +and set aside till wanted. A few spoonfuls of this jelly may be +dissolved in broth, tea, or milk. It is nourishing and easily digested. + + +DUTCH FLUMMERY. + +To an ounce and a half of Nelson's Patent Gelatine add a pint of cold +water; let it steep, then pour it into a saucepan, with the rinds of +three lemons or oranges; stir till the Gelatine is dissolved; beat the +yolk of three eggs with a pint of good raisin or white wine, add the +juice of the fruit, and three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar. Mix the +whole well together, boil one minute, strain through muslin, stir +occasionally till cold; then pour into moulds. + + +ASPIC JELLY. + +Were it not for the trouble of making Aspic Jelly, it would be more +generally used than it is, for it gives not only elegance but value to a +number of cold dishes. We have now the means of making this with the +greatest ease, rapidity, and cheapness. Soak an ounce of Nelson's +Gelatine in a pint of cold water, dissolve it in a pint of boiling +water, add a large teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of French +vinegar, and the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved +in a gill of boiling water. Wash the shell of an egg before breaking it, +beat up white and shell to a strong froth, and stir into the aspic. Let +it come slowly to the boil, and when it has boiled two minutes, let it +stand for another two minutes, then strain through a flannel bag kept +for the purpose. If a stiff aspic is required, use rather less water. + + +HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG. + +The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for ironing blankets, is +a good material for a jelly-bag. Take care that the seam of the bag be +stitched twice, to secure the jelly against unequal filtration. The bag +may, of course, be made any size, but one of twelve or fourteen inches +deep, and seven or eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for +ordinary use. The most convenient way of using the bag is to tie it upon +a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth, and to do this tape +should be sewn round it at equal distances. + +If there is no jelly-bag in a house, a good substitute may be made thus: +Take a clean cloth folded over corner-ways, and sew it up one side, +making it in the shape of a jelly-bag. Place two chairs back to back, +then take the sewn-up cloth and hang it between the two chairs by +pinning it open to the top bar of each chair. Place a basin underneath +the bag. Here is another substitute: Turn a kitchen stool upside down, +and tie a fine diaper broth napkin, previously rinsed in hot water, to +the four legs, place a basin underneath and strain through the napkin. + + + + +CREAMS. + +*** + + +The careful housekeeper of modern times has been accustomed to class +creams among the luxuries which can only be given on special occasions, +both because they take so much time and trouble to make, and because the +materials are expensive. It is, nevertheless, possible to have excellent +creams made on a simple plan and at a moderate cost. Cream of a superior +kind is now everywhere to be had in jars, condensed milk answers well, +and by the use of Nelson's Gelatine, and any flavouring or syrup, +excellent creams can be made. Our readers will find that the method of +the following recipes is simple, the cost moderate, and the result +satisfactory. A hint which, if acted on, will save time and trouble, may +be given to inexperienced persons intending to make creams similar to +Lemon Cream, which is light and frothy. Do not add the lemon-juice until +the mixture of cream and lemon-juice is nearly cold, and do not commence +whipping until it is on the point of setting. + +Delicious and inexpensive creams can be made by dissolving any of +Nelson's Tablet Jellies in half the quantity of water given in the +directions for making the jelly, and adding cream, either plain or +whipped, in the same way as directed for Orange Cream and Cherry +Cream. + + +LEMON CREAM. + +Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, dissolve it +in a pint of boiling milk with a quarter of a pound of lump sugar. When +nearly cold, add a gill of lemon-juice and whisk the cream until it is +light and sponge-like. Then stir in a gill of whipped cream, put into a +mould, and let it stand for two or three hours. + +Or, dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Lemon Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint +of hot water. When cool, add to it half-a-pint of cream, and whisk +together until on the point of setting, when mould it. + + +STRAWBERRY CREAM. + +Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in a gill of +cold water, in a pint of hot milk. When it is so nearly cold as to be on +the point of setting, add half-a-pint of strawberry syrup, and +sufficient rose colouring to make it a delicate pink; whisk the cream +until it is light and frothy, stir in lightly a gill of whipped cream, +then mould it. + +A good syrup can be made for this cream by putting half-a-pound of +strawberry and half-a-pound of raspberry jam into half-a-pint of boiling +water, and, after having well stirred it, rubbing it through a fine +sieve. The syrup should not be too sweet, and the addition of the juice +of one or two lemons, or a little citric acid, will be an advantage. + +Creams, which have cochineal colouring in them, should not be put into +tin moulds, as this metal turns them of a mauve shade. Breton's Rose +Colouring is recommended, because it is prepared from vegetables, and is +free from acid. + + +ORANGE CREAM. + +Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Orange Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint of +hot water. When cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip +together until the cream is on the point of setting. + + +IMITATION LEMON CREAM. + +This will be found useful when cream is not to be had. Put the thin peel +of two lemons into half-a-pint of boiling water, and when it has stood a +little, dissolve half-a-pound of loaf sugar in it. When nearly cold, add +three eggs, the yolks and whites well beaten together, and the juice of +the lemons. Strain this into a stewpan, and stir until it is well +thickened. After taking from the fire, stir occasionally until cold, +then mix into it a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked and +dissolved in half a gill of water, also nearly cold. + + +APRICOT CREAM. + +Drain the juice from a tin of preserved apricots, add to it an equal +quantity of water; make a syrup by boiling with this half-a-pound of +lump sugar until it begins to thicken; then put in the apricots and +simmer them gently for ten minutes. Drain away the syrup, and put both +it and the fruit aside separately for use as directed. + +Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked, in a quart of +boiling milk lightly sweetened, and, when at the point of setting, put a +teacupful of it gently into a mould, then a layer of the apricots; wait +a minute or two before putting in another cup of cream, then fill up the +mould with alternate layers of fruit and cream. Let the cream stand some +hours before turning out, and when it is on its dish pour round it the +syrup of apricots. + + +PINEAPPLE CREAM. + +Drain the syrup from a tin of pineapple, boil it down to half. Cut the +best part of the pineapple into neat little squares, pound the +remainder, which press through a strainer. Make a custard with +half-a-pint of milk and three yolks of eggs. Measure the quantity of +syrup and fruit juice, and dissolve Nelson's Gelatine in the proportion +of half-an-ounce to a pint of it and custard together. Mix the gelatine +with the custard, then put in the pieces of pineapple, and when it is +cold the syrup, the juice, and two tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. Have +ready a little of Nelson's Bottled Cherry or Port Wine Jelly melted in a +fancy mould, which turn round so that it adheres to the sides, and when +the first quantity is set, put in a little more. As the cream is on the +point of setting, put it into the mould and allow it to stand until +firm. When turned out, ornament the cream with the remainder of the +bottled jelly lightly chopped. + + +PALACE CREAM. + +Make a custard of three eggs and a pint-and-a-half of milk sweetened, +when it is ready dissolve in it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, +previously soaked in half-a-pint of milk. When made, the quantity of +custard should be fully a pint-and-a-half, otherwise the cream may be +too stiff. When the cream is cool, put a little into a mould, previously +ornamented with glacé cherries and little pieces of angelica to +represent leaves. The fruit is all the better if soaked in a little +brandy, as are the cakes, but milk can be used for these last. Put a +portion of two ounces of sponge-cakes and one ounce of ratafias on the +first layer of cream, keeping it well in the centre, and then fill up +the mould with alternate layers of cakes and cream. When turned out, a +little liqueur or any kind of syrup can be poured round the cream. + + +FRUIT CREAM. + +Strain the juice from a bottle of raspberries and currants on to +three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, boil up, then simmer for +half-an-hour. Mix the fruit and a large tablespoonful of raspberry jam +with the syrup, and rub it through a hair sieve. Dissolve Nelson's +Gelatine, in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of the fruit, in +a little water, stir well together. When cold put it into a border +mould, and as soon as it is firm turn out and fill the centre with a +cream, which make with half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine and three +gills of milk, sweetened and flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla. +Whisk until cool, when stir in a gill of whipped cream. + + +MANDARIN CREAM. + +Dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in +half-a-pint of cold milk, in half-a-pint of sweetened boiling milk or +cream. Dissolve a pint bottle of Cherry Jelly as directed. When the last +is on the point of setting put a layer into a mould, then a layer of the +cream, each of these about an inch deep, and fill up the mould in this +way. This quantity of material will make two handsome moulds, suitable +for a supper party. + + +BLANC-MANGE. + +To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add half-a-pint of new milk, let it +soak for twenty minutes, boil two or three laurel leaves in a pint of +cream and half-a-pint of milk; when boiling pour over the soaked +gelatine, stir it till it dissolves, add four or five ounces of lump +sugar and a little brandy if approved; strain it through muslin, stir +occasionally till it thickens, and then put it into moulds. + + +SOLID SYLLABUB. + +Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine twenty minutes in three-quarters of a +pint of water, add the juice and peel of two large lemons, a quarter of +a pint of sherry, five or six ounces of lump sugar; boil the above two +minutes, then pour upon it a pint of warm cream, stir it quickly till it +boils, then strain and stir till it thickens, and pour it into moulds. + + +CHARLOTTE RUSSE. + +Line a plain mould at the bottom and sides with sponge finger-biscuits, +fill it with strawberry cream, or cream made as directed in the several +recipes. If the weather is warm it will be necessary to place the +Charlotte on ice for an hour or two, but in the winter it will turn out +without this. The biscuits for a Charlotte Russe should be made quite +straight, and in arranging them in the mould they should lap slightly +one over the other. + + +BADEN-BADEN PUDDING. + +Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint +of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk; when it is nearly +cold stir into it an ounce of rice, well boiled or baked; flavour the +pudding to taste, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould +and let it stand for two or three hours; serve plain or with stewed +fruit. + + +CHERRY CREAM. + +Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Cherry Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint of +hot water. When cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip +together until the cream is on the point of setting. + + +VELVET CREAM. + +Soak three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine in +half-a-pint of sherry or raisin wine, then dissolve it over the fire, +stirring all the time; rub the rinds of two lemons with six ounces of +lump sugar, add this, with the juice, to the hot solution, which is then +to be poured gently into a pint of cream; stir the whole until quite +cold, and then put into moulds. + +This can be made with a pint of boiling milk, in which an ounce of +Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, has +been dissolved, and flavoured and sweetened. + + +ITALIAN CREAM. + +Take three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine and steep it +in half-a-pint of cold water; boil the rind of a lemon, pared thinly, in +a pint of cream; add the juice of the lemon and three tablespoonfuls of +raspberry or strawberry syrup to the soaked Gelatine; then pour the hot +cream upon the above ingredients, gently stirring the while. Sweeten to +taste, and add a drop or two of prepared cochineal. Whisk till the +mixture is thick, then pour into moulds. + + +CHEESE AND MACARONI CREAM. + +Boil two ounces of macaroni, in water slightly salted, until tender, +when drain; cut it into tiny rings, and put it into a stewpan with +half-a-pint of milk or cream, keeping it hot on the stove without +boiling for half-an-hour. Soak and dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's +Gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, and when this and the macaroni are +cold, stir together, add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, with salt +and cayenne pepper to taste. Stir occasionally until the cream is on the +point of setting, when mould it. Should the cream be absorbed by the +macaroni, more must be added to bring the whole quantity of liquid to +one pint. If preferred, rice well boiled or baked in milk, or vermicelli +paste, can be substituted for the macaroni. + + +COFFEE CREAM. + +Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in +half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk with two +ounces of sugar; stir in sufficient strong Essence of Coffee to flavour +it, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould. + + +CHOCOLATE CREAM. + +Boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of milk. Dissolve in +it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of +cold milk, and stir into it three teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's +Cocoatina, dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling milk. Beat until on the +point of setting, and put the cream into a mould. A few drops of +Nelson's Essence of Vanilla can be added with advantage. + + +CHARTREUSE OF ORANGES. + +Peel four or five oranges, carefully take out the divisions which put on +a hair sieve in a cool place to drain all night. Melt a little Nelson's +Bottled Orange Jelly, pour it into a saucer and dip in each piece of +orange, which arrange in a close circle round the bottom of a small +pudding-basin. Keep the thick part of the orange downwards in the first +row, in the next put them the reverse way. Continue thus until the basin +is covered. Pour in a little of the melted jelly, then of cream, made by +mixing a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked and dissolved +in a gill of milk, into a gill of rich cream, sweetened. Fill up the +basin with alternate layers of jelly and cream, allowing each of these +to set before the other is put in, making the jelly layers last. The +Chartreuse will turn out easily if the jelly is gently pressed from the +basin all round. Garnish with two colours of Nelson's Bottled Jelly +lightly chopped. + + +FIG CREAM. + +Preserved green figs are used for this cream--those of Fernando +Rodrigues are excellent. Place the figs in a plain mould, and pour in +gently, when on the point of setting, a cream made with a pint of cream +and half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and lightly sweetened. When the +cream is turned out of the mould, pour round it the syrup in which the +figs were preserved. + + +CHAMPAGNE CREAM. + +Although this is properly a jelly, when well made it eats so rich that +it is usually called cream. It is chiefly used in cases of illness, when +it is desirable to administer champagne in the form of jelly. Soak +half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it +in a stewpan with one or two ounces of sugar, according as the jelly is +required sweet or otherwise. When cool, add three gills of champagne and +two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, whip until it is beginning to set and +is light and frothy; put into a mould, and it will be ready for use in +two hours, if put in a cold place. + + +ORANGE MOUSSE. + +Rub the zest of the peel of two oranges on to a quarter of a pound of +lump sugar, which boil with half-a-gill of water to a thick syrup. Beat +the juice of three large oranges with two whole eggs, and having +whisked them slightly, add the syrup and Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved, +in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of liquid. Whisk the +mixture over a saucepan of hot water until it is warm, then place the +basin in another with cold water and continue whisking until it is +beginning to set, when put it into a fancy mould. + + +STRAWBERRY TRIFLE. + +Put a layer of strawberry jam at the bottom of a trifle dish. Dissolve a +half-pint tablet of Nelson's Raspberry Jelly, and when it is set break +it up and strew it over the jam. Upon this lay sponge finger biscuits +and ratafia cakes, and pour over just enough new milk to make them soft. +Make a thick custard, flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla, and +spread it over the cakes. Finally place on the top a handsome quantity +of cream, whisked with a little powdered sugar and flavoured with +vanilla. + + +WHIPPED CREAM. + +To half-a-pint of cream put a tablespoonful of fine sifted sugar, add +sufficient of any of Nelson's Essences to give it a delicate flavour. +With a whisk or wire spoon, raise a froth on the cream, remove this as +soon as it rises, put it on a fine hair, or, still better, lawn sieve; +repeat this process until the cream is used up. Should the cream get +thick in the whisking, add a very little cold water. Put the sieve +containing the whisked cream in a basin and let it stand for some hours, +which will allow it to become more solid and fit for such purposes as +filling meringues. + + + + +CAKES. + +*** + + +The proper beating of the whites of the eggs is an important matter in +cake-making. There are a number of machines for this purpose, which are +in turn eagerly adopted by inexperienced persons; but for private use +not one of them is comparable to hand-beating. When once the knack of +beating eggs is acquired but little labour is needed to bring them to +the right consistency; indeed, the most successful result is that which +is the most rapidly attained. The whites of eggs for beating should be +fresh, and should be carefully separated from the yolks by passing and +repassing them in the two halves of the shell. It is best to beat the +whites immediately they are broken, but if this is not possible, they +must be kept in a cool place until wanted. If ice is at hand, it will be +found advantageous to keep the eggs in it. In well-furnished kitchens a +copper beating-bowl is provided; it should not be tinned, as contact +with this metal will blacken the eggs; for this reason, the whisk, if of +iron wire, should not be new. An earthenware bowl with circular bottom, +and sufficiently large to admit of a good stroke in beating, answers the +purpose perfectly well. A pinch of salt may be added to the whites, and +if an inexperienced beater finds them assume a granulated appearance, a +little lemon-juice will remedy it. + +Begin by beating gently, increasing the pace as the egg thickens. As it +is the air mixing with the albumen of the eggs which causes them to +froth, it is necessary to beat them in a well-ventilated and cool place, +so that they may absorb as much air as possible. + +If these simple and important conditions are observed, the whites of a +dozen eggs may be beaten to the strongest point, without fatigue to the +operator, in five minutes. When the whites are properly beaten they +should turn out of the bowl in one mass, and, after standing a little +while, will not show signs of returning to their original state. + +In order more easily to make cakes and biscuits into the composition of +which almonds and cocoa-nut enter largely, manufacturers supply both of +these pounded or desiccated. It is, however, preferable to prepare the +former fresh, and much time and trouble may be saved in passing almonds +through Kent's Combination Mincer, 199, High Holborn, instead of +laboriously pounding them in a mortar. The result is, besides, more +satisfactory, the paste being smoother than it can otherwise be made in +domestic practice. + +Cakes of the description for which we now give recipes cannot be made +well unless the materials are properly prepared and thoroughly beaten. +It is clear that if eggs are not beaten to such a consistency that they +will bear the weight of the other ingredients, the result must be a +heavy cake. + +Currants for cakes, after they have been washed and picked, should be +scalded, in order to swell them and make them more tender. + +Put the currants into a basin, pour boiling water over them, cover the +basin with a plate; after they have stood a minute, drain away the water +and throw the fruit on a cloth to absorb the moisture. Put the currants +on a dish or plate in a very cool oven, turning occasionally until +thoroughly dry; dust a little flour over them, and they will be ready +for use. + +Castor sugar for cakes works more easily when it is fine. For superior +cakes raw sugar will not answer. + + +POUND CAKE. + +One pound fresh butter, one pound Vienna flour, six eggs (or seven, if +small), one pound castor sugar, quarter of a pound almonds cut small, +half-a-pound of currants or sultanas, three ounces of candied peel, a +few drops of essence of ratafia. + +The butter to be beaten to a cream. If it is hard warm the pan. Add the +sugar gradually; next the eggs, which must previously be well beaten up; +then sift in the flour; and, last of all, put in fruit, almonds, and +flavouring. + +This cake takes about half-an-hour to mix, as all the ingredients must +be well beaten together with an iron spoon from left to right. Bake in +small tins, for about forty minutes, in a moderate oven. + + +PLAIN POUND CAKE. + +Half-a-pound of fresh butter, three eggs, one pound of Vienna flour, one +pound of castor sugar, a quarter of a pound of almonds cut small, +half-a-pound of currants, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of +essence of ratafia. + +Beat the butter to a cream, from left to right, and mix in the sugar +gradually. Beat the eggs up, and mix them with half-a-pint of new milk; +stir into the butter; then add the flour; and, last of all, the fruit. + + +SAVOY SPONGE CAKE. + +Beat half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar with the yolks of four eggs +until you have a thick batter, stir in lightly six ounces of fine dry +sifted flour, then the whites of the eggs beaten to a very strong froth. +Have ready a tin which has been lightly buttered, and then covered with +as much sifted sugar as will adhere to it. Pour in the cake mixture, +taking care the tin is not more than half full, and bake for +half-an-hour. + + +LEMON SAVOY SPONGE. + +Half-a-pound of loaf sugar, rub some of the lumps on the peel of two +lemons, so as to get all the flavour from them; dissolve the sugar in +half a gill of boiling water; add the juice of the lemons, or one of +them if a large size, and beat with the yolks of four eggs until very +white and thick; stir in a quarter of a pound of fine flour, beat the +whites of the eggs to a strong froth, and mix as thoroughly but as +lightly as possible; butter and sift sugar over a mould, nearly fill it +with cake mixture, and bake at dark yellow paper heat for thirty +minutes. + + +MACAROONS. + +Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold +water to a strong froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely-sifted sugar and +two ounces each of pounded sweet and bitter almonds. Flour a +baking-sheet, and lay on it sheets of wafer-paper, which can be bought +at the confectioner's, and drop on to them at equal distances, a small +piece of the paste. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until +the macaroons are crisp and of a golden colour. When done cut round the +wafer-paper with a knife, and put the cakes on a sieve to dry. + +In following recipes for this class of cake some judgment is required in +the choice of the sugar, and the result will vary greatly according as +this is of the right sort, or otherwise. A little more or less sugar may +be required, and only practice can make perfect in this matter. As a +general direction, it may be given that the sugar must be of the finest +quality, and be very finely sifted, but not flour-like. + + +COCOA-NUT CAKES. + +Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold +water to a strong froth, mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely +sifted sugar, and two ounces of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Put sheets +of wafer-paper on a baking-tin, drop small pieces of the cake mixture on +to it, keeping them in a rocky shape. Bake in a moderate oven for ten +minutes, or until crisp. + + +CHOCOLATE CAKES. + +Whisk a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water +to the strongest possible froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely sifted +sugar, two teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, and six drops of +Nelson's Essence of Vanilla; sift paper thickly with sugar, and drop +small teaspoonfuls of the mixture at equal distances on it, allowing +space for the cakes to spread a little. Bake for ten minutes in a +moderate oven. + + +COCOA-NUT ROCK. + +Boil half-a-pound of loaf sugar in a gill of water until it is beginning +to return again to sugar, when cool add a packet of Nelson's Albumen +whisked to a strong froth with three teaspoonfuls of water, and stir in +a quarter of a pound of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Spread the +mixture, not more than an inch thick, in a greased pudding-tin, and +place in a cool oven to dry. When done cut in neat squares, and keep in +tins in a cool, dry place. + + +SUGAR ICING. + +No icing can be successfully done unless the sugar is of the finest +kind, perfectly white, and so finely sifted as hardly to be +distinguished by the eye from potato-flour. Such sugar can now generally +be procured of the best grocers at a moderate price. The process of +sifting the sugar at home is somewhat slow and troublesome, but by so +doing a perfectly pure article is secured. After being crushed the sugar +should be passed through sieves of varying fineness, and, finally, +through one made for the purpose, or failing this, very fine muslin will +answer. When the sugar has been sifted at home, and it is certain there +is no admixture of any kind with it, a small quantity of "fécule de +pommes de terre" (potato-flour) may be added; it reduces sweetness, and +does not interfere with the result of the process. If the sugar is not +sifted very fine a much longer time will be required to make the icing, +and in the end it will not look so smooth as it ought to do. +Confectioners use pyroligneous acid instead of lemon-juice, and there is +no objection to it in small quantities. To make the icing, beat up a +packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved with three teaspoonfuls of cold +water, work in by degrees one pound of fine icing sugar, adding a +teaspoonful of lemon-juice or a few drops of pyroligneous acid, which +will assist in keeping the icing white, or a slight tinge of stone-blue +will have the same effect. If potato-flour is used, mix it thoroughly +with the sugar before adding it to the white of egg. A little more or +less sugar may be required, as the result is in great measure determined +by the method of the operator; and when the paste is perfectly smooth, +and will spread without running, it is fit for use. For icing large +cakes confectioners use a stand which has a revolving board, so that +cakes can conveniently be turned about; failing this, an ordinary board +or inverted plate can be made to answer. As soon as the icing is spread +on the cake it must be dried in an oven with the door open. It is +sometimes found sufficient to keep the cake in a hot room for some +hours. If too great heat is used the icing will crack. + + +ALMOND PASTE. + +Blanch one pound of sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds, pound them +in a mortar, adding a little rose-water as you go on, to prevent oiling; +and when all the almonds are reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, mix +them with an equal weight of icing sugar. Moisten the paste with a +packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of cold +water, and spread it evenly on the cake, allowing it to become dry and +firm before spreading the icing over it. This paste can be used for +making several kinds of cakes and sweetmeats, and without the Albumen +can be kept in bottles for some time. Almond paste can be made from +bitter almonds which have been infused in spirit to make an extract for +flavouring, and in this case no sweet almonds will be required. + + + + +BEVERAGES. + +*** + + +Among the most useful preparations which have ever been introduced to +the public for the immediate production of delicious beverages, are +NELSON'S BOTTLED JELLIES. These beverages are highly approved for +ordinary use at luncheon and dinner, as well as for afternoon and +evening entertainments, and have a special value for invalids, as they +contain nourishment and are at the same time very refreshing. When +required for use, dissolve a bottle of the jelly, and mix with it five +times its bulk of water, the beverage can then be used either hot or +cold; if in standing it should be slightly thickened it will only be +necessary briskly to stir it with a spoon. Lemon, orange, and cherry +jelly, with the addition of water as directed, will be found superior to +any other beverage of the kind, and specially excellent for children's +parties. + +The following "cups" are delicious made with the jelly as directed. + +CLARET CUP, made merely with seltzer water, claret, and PORT WINE JELLY, +will be found superior to the ordinary preparation. A little sugar may +be added if desired. To a bottle of claret and a pint of seltzer-water +use a half-pint bottle of PORT WINE JELLY, stir briskly until well +mixed, put in a sprig of balm and borage, three thick slices of +cucumber; place the vessel containing the claret cup covered over on +ice for an hour; strain out the herbs before serving. + +BADMINTON CUP is made with Burgundy, in the same way as the above, with +the addition of a bottle of ORANGE JELLY. + +CHAMPAGNE CUP requires equal quantities of the wine and seltzer-water, +with a bottle of ORANGE JELLY. + +CIDER CUP is made with a pint and a half of cider, a bottle of +soda-water, and a bottle of either ORANGE, LEMON, or SHERRY JELLY. + +CHERRY CUP.--Half-a-pint of claret, a quart of soda-water, and a +half-pint bottle of CHERRY JELLY. + + +MULLED PORT WINE. + +Dissolve a bottle of Port Wine Jelly and add to it four times its bulk +of boiling water with a little nutmeg, and, if liked, a crushed clove. + + +LEMONADE. + +Half-a-teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in a quart of +water, with a sliced lemon and sweetened with sugar, forms a good +lemonade, and is a cooling and refreshing drink. A small pinch of the +Citric Acid dissolved in a tumbler of water with a little sugar and a +pinch of bicarbonate of potash, makes an effervescing draught. These +acidulated drinks are exceedingly useful for allaying thirst; and as +refrigerants in feverish and inflammatory complaints they are +invaluable. + + +LEMONADE (A NEW RECIPE). + +Dissolve three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar and the contents of a +threepenny packet of Nelson's Citric Acid in a quart of boiling water; +then add two quarts of fresh cold water and one-twelfth part of a bottle +of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. The above quantity of sugar may be +increased or decreased according to taste. + + +GINGERADE. + +Crush an ounce of whole ginger, pour over it a quart of boiling water, +cover the vessel, and let the infusion stand until cold. (The Extract of +Ginger may be used in place of this infusion). Strain through flannel; +add a teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, six drops of Nelson's Lemon +Flavouring, and a quarter of a pound of lump sugar; stir until +dissolved, and the Gingerade will be ready. + + +AN EXTRACT OF GINGER FOR FAMILY USE. + +An Extract of Ginger made as follows is most useful for family purposes, +and can be substituted for the infusion in Gingerade. Crush half-a-pound +of fine whole ginger in the mortar, or cut into small pieces. Put into a +bottle with half-a-pint of unsweetened gin, let it stand for a month, +shaking it occasionally, then drain it off into another bottle, allowing +it to stand until it has become clear, when it will be fit for use. + + +LEMON SYRUP. + +Boil a pound of fine loaf sugar in a pint-and-a-half of water. Remove +all scum as it rises, and continue boiling gently until the syrup begins +to thicken and assumes a golden tinge, then add a pint of strained +lemon-juice or a packet of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in water, and +allow both to boil together for half-an-hour. Pour the syrup into a jug, +to each pint add one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of +Lemon, and when cold bottle and cork well. + +The juice of Seville oranges may be made into a syrup in the same way as +that of lemons, or lemon and orange juice may be used in equal +quantities. These syrups are useful for making summer drinks, and for +invalids as lemonade or orangeade. + + +MILK BEVERAGE. + +A very agreeable and useful beverage is made by dissolving a quarter of +an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a pint of milk. A spoonful of cream +can, if preferred, be used with a bottle of soda-water. For invalids, +this beverage can be used instead of tea or coffee, and may be +preferable in many cases on account of the nourishment it contains; it +will also be found an excellent substitute, taken hot, for wine-whey, or +posset, as a remedy for a cold. For summer use, Milk Beverage is +delicious, and may be flavoured with raspberry or strawberry syrup. If +on standing it should thicken, it will only be necessary briskly to beat +it up with a spoon. + + +CITRIC ACID. + +This acid exists in the juice of many fruits, such as the orange, +currant, and quince, but especially in that of the lemon. It is chiefly +made from the concentrated juice of lemons, imported from Sicily and +Southern Italy, and which, after undergoing certain methods of +preparation, yields the crystals termed Citric Acid. These crystals may +be used for all the purposes for which lemon-juice is employed. In the +manufacture of the Citric Acid now offered to the public by Messrs. G. +Nelson, Dale, and Co., only the pure juice of the lemon is used. + + +ESSENCE OF LEMON. + +This well-known essence is extracted from the little cells visible in +the rind of lemons, by submitting raspings of the fruit to pressure. The +greater portion of the oil of lemons sold in England is imported from +Portugal, Italy, and France. It is very frequently adulterated with oil +of turpentine. In order to present the public with a perfectly pure +commodity, G. Nelson, Dale, and Co. import their Essence of Lemon direct +from Sicily, and from a manufacturer in whom they have the fullest +confidence. + +Nelson's Essence of Lemon is sold in graduated bottles, eightpence each, +each bottle containing sufficient for twelve quarts of jelly. + + + + +MACARONI, ETC. + +*** + + +We now give recipes for a few useful little dishes, chiefly of macaroni, +which can be had at such a price as to bring it within the reach of all +classes. English-made macaroni can be bought at fourpence, and even +less, the pound, and the finest Italian at sixpence. The Naples, or +pipe-macaroni, is the most useful for families, and the Genoa, or +twisted, for high-class dishes. The English taste is in favour of +macaroni boiled soft, and in order to make it so, many cooks soak it. +But this is not correct, and it is not at all necessary to soak +macaroni. If kept boiling in sufficient water, the macaroni requires no +attention--ebullition prevents it sticking to the saucepan. + +Although we give several ways of finishing macaroni, it is excellent +when merely boiled in water with salt, as in the first recipe, eaten as +an accompaniment to meat, or with stewed fruit. + + +MACARONI WITH CHEESE. + +Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni broken into pieces an inch long, +into three pints of boiling water, with a large pinch of salt. The +saucepan should be large, or the water will rise over when the macaroni +boils fast, which it should do for twenty or twenty-five minutes. When +done, strain the macaroni through a colander, put it back into the +saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of white pepper +and of salt, if necessary, and shake it over the fire for a minute or +two. Take the saucepan off the fire, and stir into the macaroni two +ounces or more, if liked, of grated Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately +with crisp dry toast, cut in neat pieces. If not convenient to use +Parmesan, a mild dry English or American cheese will answer very well. +Some cooks prefer, when the macaroni is boiled, to put a fourth part of +it on to a hot dish, then to strew over it a fourth part of the grated +cheese, and so on till all of both are used, cheese, of course, covering +the top. + + +MACARONI CHEESE. + +Boil and drain the macaroni, mix with a quarter of a pound an ounce of +butter, and two ounces of grated cheese; pepper or cayenne pepper and +salt to taste. Put the macaroni in a dish and strew over it sufficient +grated cheese to cover it up, run a little dissolved butter over the +top, and put it in the oven till it is a bright-yellow colour; serve +quickly. + + +MACARONI WITH BACON. + +Boil two ounces of streaky bacon, cut it into dice or mince it, stir it +into a quarter of a pound of macaroni boiled as for macaroni cheese: if +liked, add a few drops of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and serve very +hot. + + +MACARONI WITH ONIONS. + +Boil the macaroni as above, mix with it two or three onions sliced and +fried a delicate brown, add a few spoonfuls of gravy, stir over the fire +for a few minutes and serve. + + +STEWED MACARONI. + +Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni into three pints of boiling water +with a teaspoonful of salt, and let it boil for twenty minutes. Drain in +a colander, then put it into a stewpan with half a tin of Nelson's +Extract of Meat dissolved in half-a-pint of water, and stir over the +fire for five minutes. Take it off the fire and stir in one ounce of +grated cheese, pepper and salt to taste. + + +MACARONI WITH TOMATOES. + +Prepare the macaroni as in the above recipe, put it into a stewpan with +a small piece of butter and a teacupful of tomato sauce, or a small +bottle of conserve of tomatoes, and stir briskly over the fire for five +minutes. + + +SWEET MACARONI. + +Boil the macaroni as for the other dishes, but with only a pinch of +salt, until tender, when drained put into a stewpan with a gill of milk +to each two ounces, and two ounces of sifted lump sugar. Any flavouring +may be used, but perhaps there is nothing better than grated lemon-peel, +and for those who like it, powdered cinnamon or grated nutmeg. Stir over +the fire until all the milk is absorbed; a little cream is, of course, +an improvement. For those who do not like milk, the juice of a lemon, or +a little sherry, may be substituted, and for a superior dish vanilla can +be used for flavouring. + + +BOILED CHEESE. + +Put four tablespoonfuls of beer into a small saucepan, shred into it a +quarter of a pound of good new cheese, and stir briskly over the fire +until all is dissolved and is on the point of boiling, then take it off +instantly, for, if the cheese is allowed to boil, it will become tough. +Have ready slices of toasted bread, spread the cheese on it, and serve +as quickly as possible. + + +LES CANAPÉS AU PARMESAN. + +Take the crumb of a French roll, cut it into rounds a quarter of an inch +thick, put them into a wire frying-basket, immerse in hot fat, and crisp +the bread instantly. Throw it on to paper, dry, and sprinkle over each +piece a thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese, pepper, and salt. Put the +canapés in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, just to melt the cheese, +and serve immediately they are done. + + +RICE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. + +Boil a quarter of a pound of Patna rice in water with salt; drain it, +toss it up in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of +cayenne pepper. Put a quarter of the rice on a hot dish, strew over it +equally an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, then put another portion of +rice and cheese until all is used. Serve immediately. + + +SCALLOPED EGGS. + +Take a cupful of finely-sifted bread-crumbs, moisten them with a little +cold milk, cream, or gravy, and season nicely with pepper and salt. Put +a thin layer of the moistened crumbs on a lightly-buttered dish, cut two +hard eggs into slices, and dip each piece in very thick well-seasoned +white sauce, or Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved in a little water, so +as to glaze the eggs. Having arranged the slices of egg neatly on the +layer of moistened bread-crumbs, cover them with another layer of it, +and on the top strew thickly some pale gold-coloured raspings. Bake in a +moderate oven for ten minutes. If potatoes are liked, they make a nice +substitute for bread-crumbs. Take some mashed potatoes, add to them a +spoonful of cream or gravy, and proceed as with bread-crumbs. Serve +gravy made of Nelson's Extract of Meat with this dish. + + +SCOTCH WOODCOCK. + +Melt a small piece of butter the size of a nut in a stewpan, break into +it two eggs, with a spoonful of milk or gravy, and pepper and salt, stir +round quickly until the eggs begin to thicken, keep the yolks whole as +long as you can. When finished, pour on to a buttered toast, to which +has been added a little essence of anchovy or anchovy paste, and serve. + + +MUSHROOMS WITH CREAM SAUCE. + +Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix in the yolks of two eggs +lightly beaten, the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of pepper and salt, +stir this over the fire until thickened. Have ready half-a-pint of plain +butter sauce, and mix all gradually together, with a small tin of +champignons, or about the same quantity of fresh mushrooms chopped and +stewed gently for ten minutes in a little broth or milk. Stir them with +the liquor in which they have stewed into the sauce, and let them stand +for a few minutes, then spread the mixture on to neat slices of toasted +bread. The sauce must be a good thickness, so that it will not run off +the toast, and care must be taken in the first process not to oil the +butter or make the sauce lumpy. + + +TO BOIL RICE (A BLACK MAN'S RECIPE). + +As rice is so often badly cooked, we make no apology for giving the +black man's celebrated recipe. Although he does not recommend a little +salt in the water, we think that a small quantity should always be used, +even when the rice has to be served as a sweet dish. "Wash him well, +much wash in cold water, rice flour, make him stick. Water boil all +ready, very fast. Shove him in; rice can't burn, water shake him too +much. Boil quarter of an hour or little more. Rub one rice in thumb and +finger; if all rub away him quite done. Put rice in colander, hot water +run away. Pour cup of cold water on him, put back in saucepan, keep him +covered near the fire, then rice all ready. Eat him up." + + +TO MINCE VEGETABLES. + +Peel the onion or turnip, put it on the board, cut it first one way in +slices, not quite through, lest it should fall to pieces, then cut it in +slices the other way, which will produce long cubes. Finally turn the +onion on its side and cut through, when it will fall into dice-like +pieces. The inconvenience and sometimes positive pain caused to the eyes +by mincing or chopping the onions on a board is thus obviated, and a +large quantity can be quickly prepared in the above way. + + + + +HINTS ON HOUSEKEEPING. + +*** + + +How many people are crying, "How can we save? Where can we retrench? +Shall the lot fall on the house-furnishing, or the garden, or the +toilet, or the breakfast or the dinner table? Shall we do with one +servant less, move into a cheaper neighbourhood, or into a smaller +house? No, we cannot make any such great changes in our way of life. +There are the boys and girls growing up; we must keep up appearances for +their sakes. We remember the old proverb that, 'however bad it may be to +be poor, it is much worse to look poor.'" Yet, although, for many +reasons, it is often most difficult to retrench on a large scale, there +are people who find it easier, for instance, to put down the carriage +than to see that the small outgoings of housekeeping are more duly +regulated. It is seldom, indeed, that a wife can assist her husband save +by lightening his expenses by her prudence and economy. Too many +husbands, nowadays, can vouch for the truth of the old saying, "A woman +can throw out with a spoon faster than a man can throw in with a +shovel." The prosperity of a middle-class home depends very much on what +is saved, and the reason that this branch of a woman's business is so +neglected is that it is very difficult and very troublesome. + +"Take care of your pence and the pounds will take care of themselves," +is a maxim that was much in use when we were young. Nowadays it is more +fashionable to speak of this kind of thing as "penny wise and pound +foolish." Looking to the outgoings of pence is voted slow work, and it +is thought fine to show a languid indifference to small savings. "Such a +fuss over a pennyworth of this or that, it's not worth while." Yes, but +it is not that particular pennyworth which is alone in question, there +is the principle involved--the great principle of thrift--which must +underlie all good government. The heads of households little think of +what evils they perpetuate when they shut their eyes to wasteful +practices, because it is easier to bear the cost than to prevent waste. + +The young servant trained under one careless how she uses, or rather +misuses, that which is entrusted to her, carries in her turn the +wasteful habits she has learned into another household, and trains +others in a contempt for thrifty ways, until the knowledge of how to do +things at once well and economically is entirely lost. + +We often hear it urged that it is bad for the mind of a lady to be +harassed by the petty details of small savings, and that if she can +afford to let things go easily she should not be so harassed. But under +no circumstances must any mistress of a household permit habitual waste +in such matters. When the establishment is so large as to be to a great +extent removed from the immediate supervision of the mistress, all she +can do is to keep a careful watch over every item of expenditure, and +by every means in her power to let her servants feel that it is to their +interest as well as to her own to keep within due bounds. A good cook is +always a good manager. She makes many a meal of what an inferior cook +would waste. The housekeeper should therefore insist on having good +cooking at a reasonable cost, and never keep a cook who does not make +the most of everything. In a large household a mistress cannot look +after the sifting of cinders, but she can check her coal bills, and by +observation find out in what department the waste is going on. It may +not be possible to pay periodical visits to the gas-meter to see if the +tap is turned on to the full when such force is not necessary, but she +can from quarter to quarter compare notes, or have fixed, where it is +easy for her to get at it, one of the gas-regulators now in use. And +thus, by the exercise of judicious control and supervision, the guiding +mind of the mistress will make itself felt in every department of the +household without any undue worry to herself. The mistress of a small +household who has things more under her immediate control, and whose +income, no less than her sense of moral obligation, obliges her to look +carefully after the outgoings, need not be told what a trial it is to be +constantly on the watch to prevent waste. Probably she is compelled to +leave a certain quantity of stores for general use; indeed, we doubt +very much if there is anything saved by the daily giving out of ounces +and spoonfuls of groceries, for if a servant is disposed to be +wasteful, she will be equally so with the small as the larger quantity. + +What perpetual worry is caused by seeing how soap is left in the water +until it is so soft as to have lost half its value! How many pence go in +most households in that way every week, we wonder! + +The scrubbing-brush also is left in water with the soap. A fairly good +brush costs at least two shillings, and as one so treated only lasts +half the proper time you may safely calculate that a shilling is soon +wasted in that way. Brushes of all sorts are, as a rule, most carelessly +used, and left about anyhow instead of being hung up. How much loss +there is in a year in the careless use of knives and plate! Whenever +possible both of these get into the hands of the cook. Her own tools +from neglect or misuse have become blunt or worse, and she takes the +best blade and the plated or silver spoon whenever she has a chance. + +The plate gets thrown in a heap into an earthenware bowl to be bruised +and scratched. The knives are either put insufficiently wiped through +the cleaner, which is thus spoiled and made fit rather to dirty than +clean knives, or they are left lying in hot water to have the handles +loosened and discoloured. + +Probably jars, tin boxes, and canisters are provided in sufficient +quantity to put away and keep stores properly. But for all that, as it +would seem in a most ingenious manner, loss and waste are contrived. Raw +sugar is kept in the paper until it rots through it. Macaroni, rice, and +such things are left a prey to mice or insects. The vinegar and sauce +bottles stand without the corks. Delicate things, which soon lose their +fine aroma, as tea, coffee, and spices, are kept in uncovered canisters: +the lid is first left off, then mislaid. The treacle jar stands open for +stray fingers and flies to disport themselves therein. Capers are put +away uncovered with vinegar, and when next wanted are found to be +mouldy. Perhaps the juice of a lemon has been used; the peel, instead of +being preserved, is thrown away, or left lying about till valueless. +Herbs, which should have been at once dried and sifted, are hid away in +some corner to become flavourless and dirty, and so on with every kind +of store and provision. + +It is impossible to calculate how many pennies are lost daily, in a +large number of houses, by the absolute waste of pieces of bread left to +mould or thrown out because trouble to utilise them cannot be taken. +Whoever thinks anything of the small quantities of good beer left in the +jug; it is so much easier to throw it away than put it in a bottle? Or +who will be at the trouble of boiling up that "drop" of milk, which, +nevertheless, cost a penny, and would make, or help to make, a small +pudding for the next day? Then, again, how many bits of fat and suet are +lost because it is too much trouble to melt down the first, and preserve +the other by very simple and effectual means? + +Butter in summer is allowed to remain melting in the paper in which it +is sent in, or perhaps it is put on a plate, to which some pennyworths +of the costly stuff will stick and be lost. One would think it would be +as easy at once to put it into cold salted water, if better means of +cooling could not be used. + +If we pause here, it is not because we have exhausted the list of things +most woefully wasted, mainly from want of thought, but because we have +not space to enumerate more of them. We can only add that the importance +of small household savings cannot well be overrated, both because of the +principle involved and because of the substantial sum they represent +together. There is no need in any household for even a penny a day to be +wasted; and yet if we look closely into things, how much money value is +lost daily in some one or other of the ways we have mentioned. In the +course of the year, the daily pennies mount up to many pounds, and we +are sure that it is much safer once in a way lavishly to spend the +shillings than to be habitually careless of the outgoings of the pence. + +Although it is not necessary that the mistress of a household who can +afford to keep servants should herself do the cooking, or spend much +time in her kitchen, it is absolutely necessary that she should +understand the best methods, and know how everything should be done. + +Many people will say that it is unbecoming for women to be _gourmands_; +we agree with them, and that it is equally unbecoming for men to be so. +But to be a _gourmet_ is another thing; and we ought not to lose sight +of the fact that food eaten with real enjoyment and the satisfaction +which accompanies a well-prepared meal, is greatly enhanced in value. +Professor C. Voit has clearly pointed out, in his experiments and +researches into diet, the great value of palatable food as nourishment, +and how indispensable is a certain variety in our meals. "We think," he +says, "we are only tickling the palate, and that it is nothing to the +stomach and digestive organs whether food is agreeable to the palate or +not, since they will digest it, if it is digestible at all. But it is +not so indifferent after all, for the nerves of the tongue are connected +with other nerves and with nerve-centres, so that the pleasure of the +palate, or some pleasure, at any rate, even if it is only imagination, +which can only originate in the central organ--the brain--often has an +active effect on other organs. This is a matter of daily experience. +Without the secretion of gastric juice the assimilation of nourishment +would be impossible. If, therefore, some provocatives induce and +increase certain sensations and useful processes, they are of essential +value to health, and it is no bad economy to spend something on them." + +It is surely somewhat singular that Englishwomen, who have excelled in +almost every other craft, should be remarkable for their want of skill +in cookery. They have not been dismayed by any difficulties in +literature, art, or science, and yet how few are there among us who can +make a dish of porridge like a Scotchwoman, or an omelette like a +Frenchwoman! The fact would seem to be, that educated women having +disdained to occupy themselves either theoretically or practically with +cookery, those whose legitimate business it has been have become +indifferent also. The whole aim of the modern British cook seems to be +to save herself trouble, and she will give as much time and thought to +finding out ways of doing things in a slovenly manner as would go to +doing them properly. + +No doubt cooks have often so much work of other kinds to do that they +cannot give the necessary time to cooking. In a case of this kind, the +mistress should herself give such help as she can, and bring up her +daughters to help in the kitchen. People in middle-class life often +expect the cook to do all the kitchen work, and frequently some of the +house work. Of course, in small families, this is quite possible to be +done, and it is always best for servants, as for other people, to be +fully employed. But in large families it is impossible the cooking can +be properly done, when the cook is harassed by so many other +occupations. Thus, because it takes less time and attention than cooking +smaller dishes, huge pieces of meat are roasted or boiled daily, and the +leg-of-mutton style of dietary is perpetuated--declared to be the most +economical, and, in short, the best for all the world. + +Probably it is because bread and butter can be bought ready made, and +involve no trouble, that they are held to be the chief necessaries of +life in every English household. Some children almost live, if they do +not thrive, on bread and butter. Thoughtless housekeepers think they +have done their duty when they have seen that a sufficient supply of +these articles has been sent in from the shops. When we insist that +everyone should have home-baked bread, at once we shall be met with the +"penny-wise" suggestion that home-baked bread costs more than baker's, +because, being so nice, people eat more of it. Good bread, we need not +say, is far more nourishing than that which is made from inferior +materials or adulterated even with non-injurious substances for wheaten +flour. Then all the other difficulties come to the fore: cook spoils the +bakings, the oven is not suitable, and so on. To all these we answer: A +good housekeeper, one who looks beyond the sum total of her weekly +bills, who thinks no trouble too great to provide such food as will +maintain the health of her family, will have home-baked bread. + +There are other points in domestic management which do not receive the +attention they deserve. Of these we may cite the use of labour-saving +machines and of gas for cooking. + +How often do we hear it said: "I always have such and such a thing done +in that way, because it was my mother's way!" + +This may be very nice and very natural, but it is nevertheless a +sentimental reason. What should we think of a person who insisted on +riding pillion, because her mother rode pillion? Yet, this really is +pretty much the same thing as we see every day, when ladies are so +wedded to old ways that they persist in employing the rough-and-ready +implements of domestic use, the pattern whereof has been handed down +from the Ark, instead of modern and scientific inventions which save +both time and trouble. In no other department of the national life have +the people been so slow to adopt simple machinery as in that of the +household. + +It is alleged, in the first place, that labour-saving machines are +expensive; in the next place, that servants do not understand them, and +that they are always getting out of order. + +As to the first objection, we would say that as these machines--we speak +only, of course, of really good machines--are made, not only with the +object of saving labour, but material, the original cost of them is in a +short time repaid. As regards the second objection, it seems +incomprehensible that servants should not use with care and +thoughtfulness machines, which not only save time and trouble, but +greatly help in making their work perfect. + +There is no doubt that by the more general adoption of machinery +household work would be much lightened, and that if there were a demand +for it, enterprise would be much stimulated, and many more useful helps +would be produced. As it is, manufacturers hesitate to bring out new +inventions at a great expense, when there is a doubt of securing the +appreciation of the public. + +Only the other day we were inquiring for a little machine we had seen +years ago, and were told by the maker that, "like many other useful +things, it had been shelved by the public, and ultimately lost." + +Let us take the case of making bread at home. By the use of a little +simple dough-mixing machine, supplied by Kent, 199, High Holborn, the +operation is easy, quick, cleanly, and certain. We have had one of these +in use for more than ten years, and during that time have never had a +bad batch of bread. Not only in this machine do we make ten to eleven +pounds of dough in five minutes, but the kneading is most perfectly +done, and there is the great advantage of securing perfect cleanliness, +the hands not being used at all in the process. Yet we do not suppose +that any number of the people who have admired the bread have set up the +machine. It cannot be the cost of the machine, as it is inconsiderable, +which prevents its more general use, since in households where expense +is not an object the primitive process is still in vogue. + +Many people imagine that washing machines are only needed in large +families where all the washing is got up at home. But, if ever so small +or only an occasional wash is done, there is no exaggerating the comfort +and advantage of a machine which washes, wrings, and mangles. So far +from injuring linen, machines of the best kind wear it far less than +rough hand labour, and with reasonable care it will be found that +delicate fabrics are not split in the wringing by a good machine, as +they so frequently are by the hand. + +Then there is the case of the knife-cleaning machine. There are families +who, instead of using one, employ a boy to ruin their knives by rubbing +them on a board with Bath brick. They do so, they will tell you, +"because machines wear out the knives." The slightest acquaintance with +the mechanism of a good knife-cleaning machine should suffice to show +that the brushes cannot wear out the knives, whereas the action of the +board and brick is the most destructive that can be imagined. The +objection of undue wear being disposed of, we are told that the machines +soon get out of order, and are a constant expense. Of course, with +careless usage anything will come to grief, but the fact remains that +Kent, the leading manufacturer of knife-cleaners, has published a +certificate from a lady who has had in constant use, for thirty years, +one of his machines, which during that time has required no repairs. As +to knives, we know of some which have been cleaned daily for twenty-five +years in a machine, and are very little the worse for wear. + +Dressmakers tell us that, but for the sewing machine, an elaborate style +of trimming ladies' dresses would be impossible. We know that many +inexpensive delicacies, which it is not practicable to have now because +of the time and trouble they require, could easily be managed by the use +of little articles of domestic machinery. For instance, take potted +meat. There is the excellent Combination Mincer, also Kent's, by which +this is rapidly and perfectly done, and which enables cooks to use up +many scraps of material in a most acceptable way, and without the labour +of the pestle and mortar. This machine, however, is but little known. It +costs but a sovereign, is useful for all mincing purposes, and makes +the best sausages in the world. + +To make sausages properly, a machine must have an adjustment of the +cutters by which the sinews of the meat and bits of skin are retained on +them, as nothing is so unpleasant as to find these when eating the +sausages. Thus it will be seen how necessary it is, in setting up +machinery which should last a lifetime, to have the best inventions in +the market. Not very long ago, a friend asked our opinion on the merits +of the different makers of knife-cleaning machines. We explained to her +the mechanism of the best of them, pointed out the superior workmanship, +and that she should not grudge the money to have one which would do its +work properly and be durable. Probably under the impression that "in the +multitude of counsellors there is wisdom," our friend made further +inquiries, and ended by buying a much-advertised machine which, she was +assured, was better and cheaper than that of Kent, the original +patentee. When she had the machine home, and calculated, together with +the cost of carriage, her own expenses in going to London to choose it, +she found that she had saved exactly eighteenpence, and then that her +bargain would not clean the knives! + +The prejudices which for a long time existed against cooking by gas have +gradually cleared away now that improved stoves have been introduced, +and the public have experience of its many advantages. There are yet +some difficulties to be met in bringing gas into more general use, one +of which, the high price charged for it, is beyond the control of the +housekeeper, and another, that of teaching servants to be economical and +careful in its use. When this last can be overcome, even with the first +named drawback, gas will not be found more expensive than coal. The cost +of wood, of sweeping the chimney, and the extra wear and tear occasioned +by the soot, smoke, and dust of a coal fire, must be calculated in +addition to the fuel itself. + +It will be seen, when we say that the entire cooking for a small family +having late dinners, bread baked, and much water heated, is done for +something under £2 a quarter, that gas as a fuel is not so great an +extravagance after all. The stove used has the oven lined with a +non-conducting substance, which has the advantage of keeping the heat +within instead of sending it into the kitchen, as stoves made only of +iron plates are apt to do. We have but space to add that the benefit to +health, the cleanliness, the saving of time, labour, and temper, to say +nothing of the superiority of cooking done by gas in such a stove as has +been described, can only be fully appreciated by those who, like the +writer, have had twenty years' experience of all these advantages. + + + + +NEW ZEALAND FROZEN MUTTON. + +*** + + +The high price at which meat has stood for some years has made it +necessary for the working classes to restrict themselves to a scanty +allowance of animal food, and this often of poor quality. The difficulty +of providing joints of meat for their families has, indeed, also been +felt severely by people who are comparatively well-to-do. Under these +circumstances capitalists have thought it worth a considerable +investment of money to discover some means of bringing the cheap and +magnificent supplies of New Zealand into the English market. After many +failures, success has at length crowned the enterprise, and nothing can +exceed the perfection in which New Zealand mutton is now placed on the +English market. It is universally admitted that the meat, both as +respects its nutritive value and its flavour, is unsurpassed, while the +price is very moderate. The same remarks apply to New Zealand lamb. It +commences to arrive in January, and is in the height of its season when +our English lamb is a luxury which can only be enjoyed by the few. + +Nelson Brothers, Limited, stand foremost among the importers of this +invaluable food supply. The mutton and lamb selected by them is of the +highest quality, and their system of refrigeration is perfect. In summer +these New Zealand meats have a great advantage over the home supply, as +although in keeping they may lose colour, they remain good and sweet +much longer than English-killed meat. + +The Company have large refrigerating stores under Cannon Street Station +capable of holding some 70,000 sheep, and have recently erected stores +of _treble that capacity_ at Nelson's Wharf, Commercial Road, Lambeth, +wherein the latest improvements both as regards construction and +refrigerating machinery have been adopted, in order to facilitate the +development of the frozen meat trade. + +NELSON BROTHERS have also Branch Offices at-- + + 15_a_, RICHMOND STREET, LIVERPOOL. + LEASE LANE, BIRMINGHAM. + LAWNS LANE, LEEDS. + THE ABATTOIRS, MANCHESTER. + BALTIC CHAMBERS, NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. + TRESILLIAN TERRACE, CARDIFF. + +If any of our readers are anxious to try the meat, and are unable to +procure it, a postcard to the Head Office, 15, Dowgate Hill, London, +E.C., or to any of the Branch Offices, will at once put them in the way +of carrying out their desire. + +As it occasionally happens that from want of some little precaution New +Zealand meat does not come to table in its best condition, we offer the +following hints for the treatment of it: + +Frozen mutton, like that which is freshly killed, requires to be hung a +certain time--this is most essential to remember, otherwise the meat +eats hard and tough--and it is important to observe, both when hanging +and roasting, that it is so placed that the juice shall not run out of +the cut end. Hind-quarters, haunches, and legs should be hung with the +knuckle end downwards; loins and saddles by the flaps, thus giving them +a horizontal position. The meat in winter should be kept in the kitchen +some time before cooking, and after being exposed for a few minutes to a +rapid heat in order to seal up and keep the gravy in the joint, it +should be cooked rather slowly, thus taking a little more time than is +usually given to English meat. + + + + +INDEX. + +*** + + +PAGE + + +ALBUMEN, 10 + + +BEEF TEA, 12 + " " as a solid, 15 + +BEVERAGES, 93 + Badminton Cup, 94 + Champagne Cup, 94 + Cherry Cup, 94 + Cider Cup, 94 + Citric Acid, 97 + Claret Cup, 93 + Ginger, an Extract of, for family use, 95 + Gingerade, 95 + Lemon, Essence of, 97 + " Syrup, 96 + Lemonade, 94 + " (a new recipe), 95 + Milk, 96 + Port Wine, Mulled, 94 + +BLANC-MANGE, 79 + + +CAKES, 85 + Almond Paste, 92 + Chocolate, 90 + Cocoa-nut, 89 + " Rock, 90 + Macaroons, 89 + Pound, 87 + " Plain, 87 + Savoy Sponge, 88 + " " Lemon, 88 + Sugar Icing, 90 + +CITRIC ACID, 9 + +CREAMS, 74 + Apricot, 76 + Champagne, 83 + Charlotte Russe, 79 + Cheese and Macaroni, 81 + Cherry, 80 + Chocolate, 82 + Coffee, 81 + Fig, 83 + Fruit, 78 + Italian, 81 + Lemon, 75 + " Imitation, 76 + Mandarin, 78 + Orange, 76 + " Mousse, 83 + Oranges, Chartreuse of, 82 + Palace, 77 + Pineapple, 77 + Strawberry, 75 + " Trifle, 84 + Syllabub, Solid, 79 + Velvet, 80 + Whipped, 84 + + +ESSENCES-- + Almonds, 9 + Lemon, 9 + Vanilla, 9 + +EXTRACT OF MEAT, 10 + + +FISH, LITTLE DISHES OF, 22 + Cod Cutlets, 26 + Eels, Collared, 30 + Fish, Galantine of, 28 + Herrings, Fried, 27 + " Rolled, 27 + Sole, Filleted, 24 + " Fillets of, en Aspic, 29 + " " Fried, 25 + " " Sautés, 25 + " " with Lobster, 25 + " Fried, 23 + Whiting, Baked, 26 + +FLUMMERY, DUTCH, 72 + + +GELATINE, 13 + " How to use, 64 + + +HOUSEKEEPING, HINTS ON, 105 + + +JELLIES, NELSON'S BOTTLED-- + Calf's Foot, 8 + Cherry, 8 + Lemon, 8 + Orange, 8 + Port, 8 + Sherry, 8 + +JELLIES, TABLET, 8 + +JELLY-MAKING, ON, 61 + Jelly, Apple, 69 + " Aspic, 72 + " Brilliant, 65 + " Claret, 67 + " Cocoa, 68 + " Coffee, 68 + " Economical, 65 + " Orange Fruit, 69 + " Oranges filled with, 69 + " Ribbon, 66 + " Strengthening, 71 + " with Fruit, 66 + Jelly-bag, how to make a, 73 + +JELLY-JUBES, 10 + + +LEMON SPONGE, 9, 70 + +LOZENGES-- + Gelatine, 9 + Licorice, 10 + + +MACARONI, ETC., 98 + Canapés au Parmesan, 101 + Cheese, Boiled, 101 + Eggs, Scalloped, 102 + Macaroni Cheese, 99 + " Stewed, 100 + " Sweet, 100 + " with Bacon, 99 + " " Cheese, 98 + " " Onions, 100 + " " Tomatoes, 100 + Mushrooms with Cream Sauce, 103 + Rice, to Boil (a black man's recipe), 103 + Rice with Parmesan Cheese, 101 + Scotch Woodcock, 102 + Vegetables, to Mince, 104 + +MEAT, LITTLE DISHES OF, 31 + Brain Fritters, 35 + Chicken, Brown Fricassée of, 42 + Chicken Sauté, 43 + " in Aspic Jelly, 36 + Croquettes, 44 + Curry, Dry, 44 + Kidneys, Broiled, 39 + " Sautés, 37 + " with Mushrooms, 38 + " with Piccalilli, 39 + Lamb's Fry, 40 + " Sweetbreads, 41 + Marrow Toast, 35 + Meat Cakes à l'Italienne, 45 + Mutton, Cold, Potted, 33 + " Collops, 33 + " Cutlets, 31 + " Pies, 34 + " Roulades of, 32 + " Sauté, 33 + Ox Brain, 34 + Pork Pie, Raised, 46 + Potato Hash, 43 + Sausages, Pork, 47 + Veal à la Casserole, 41 + Veal and Ham Pie, 47 + Veal Cutlets in White Sauce, 37 + +MUTTON, NEW ZEALAND FROZEN, 119 + + +PUDDINGS, 50 + Apple Fool, 59 + " Meringue, 60 + Baden-Baden, 80 + Brandy Sauce, 53 + Cabinet, 53 + Capital, The, 57 + Cheesecake, Welsh, 58 + Chocolate, 56 + Cocoa-nut, 56 + Compote of Apples with Fried Bread, 59 + Compote of Prunes, 60 + Custard, 50 + Duchess of Fife's, 58 + Fritters, Italian, 58 + Jubilee, 55 + Natal, 55 + Omelet, Friar's, 58 + " Soufflé, 52 + Pears, Stewed, with Rice, 60 + Queen's, 56 + Raspberry and Currant, 57 + Soufflé, 51 + Sponge Soufflé, 53 + Vanilla Rusk, 54 + Warwickshire, 54 + + +SOUPS, 11, 14 + Artichoke, Brown, 19 + Beef and Onion, 14 + Beef, Lentil, and Vegetable, 15 + Beef, Pea, and Vegetable, 15 + Glaze, 21 + Gravy, 21 + Hare, 17 + Julienne, 16 + Mulligatawny, 18 + " Nelson's, 14 + " Thin, 18 + Rabbit, Brown; Clear, 17 + Turtle, 19 + " Mock, 21 + Vermicelli, Clear, 16 + + +TINNED MEATS, 12 + +[Illustration: TRADE MARK.] + +*** + +CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS, CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS. + + +[Illustration: By Royal Letters Patent.] + +For First Class Jellies + +*** + +NELSON'S + +OPAQUE GELATINE + +SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED. + +See Recipe, Page 65. + +*** + +NELSON'S + +TABLET JELLIES. + +_Orange, Lemon, Calf's Foot, Cherry, Raspberry, Vanilla, Apricot, Pear, +Apple, Black Currant, Pine Apple, Noyeau, etc._ + +Quarts, 9d.; Pints, 6d.; Half-Pints, 3d. + +*** + +WINE TABLET JELLIES. + +_Port, Sherry, Orange._ + +Pints only, 9d. + +These new Jellies are perfectly pure and wholesome, and the flavours +excellent, while their exceeding cheapness brings them within the reach +of all classes. + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +[Illustration: By Royal Letters Patent.] + +*** + +NELSON'S SOUPS. + +These Soups are already thoroughly cooked and seasoned, and can be +prepared for the table in a few minutes. + +*** + +BEEF AND CARROTS. + +BEEF AND CELERY. + +BEEF AND ONIONS. + +MULLIGATAWNY. + +In Pint Packets, 6d. each. + +*** + +BEEF, PEAS, AND VEGETABLES. + +BEEF, LENTILS, AND VEGETABLES. + +In Quart Packets, 6d. each. + +*** + +Penny Packets of Soup for charitable purposes. + +*** + +NELSON'S + +EXTRACT OF MEAT, + +FOR MAKING AND IMPROVING + +SOUPS, GRAVIES, BEEF-TEA, etc., etc. + +*** + +In Ounce Packets, 4d. each, and 1 lb. Tins, 5s. each. + +NOTE. + +One packet is sufficient for a Pint of Strong Soup. + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +[Illustration: By Royal Letters Patent.] + +NOTICE. + +*** + +On RECEIPT of POSTAL ORDER for 2/6 + +A BOX CONTAINING SAMPLES OF + +NELSON'S SPECIALITIES + +AND A COPY OF + +"NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS," + +Will be sent, CARRIAGE PAID, to any address in the United Kingdom, by + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., LIMITED, + +14, Dowgate Hill, London, E.C. + +*** + +May also be obtained through any Grocer at the same price. + +*** + +_N.B.--A Copy of "Home Comforts" will be sent, gratis, on receipt of +Penny Postage Stamp._ + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO, Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +[Transcriber's Note: + +Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note. + +The title page, originally following three pages of advertisements, has +been moved to the beginning of the book. + +The following corrections and changes were also made: + +*p. 12: fibrine to fibrin (the fibrin of the meat) + +*p. 17: entrée italicized to match other instances + +*p. 33: liitle to little (Season with a little pepper) + +*p. 122, Index: em-dash added to end of JELLIES, NELSON'S BOTTLED to +match similar entries + +*p. 124, Index: Compôte to Compote to match body of text (Compote of +Apples with Fried Bread, Compote of Prunes) + +Inconsistencies in hyphenation (e.g. sugar-syrup vs. sugar syrup, +overnight vs. over-night) and variant spellings (e.g. omelette vs. +omelet) have not been corrected.] + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Nelson's Home Comforts, by Mary Hooper + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS *** + +***** This file should be named 29519-8.txt or 29519-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/5/1/29519/ + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Lindy Walsh, S.D., and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Nelson's Home Comforts + Thirteenth Edition + +Author: Mary Hooper + +Release Date: July 27, 2009 [EBook #29519] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Lindy Walsh, S.D., and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tpbox"> +<img src="images/tp-border1.png" alt="decorative border" /> +<div class="tp"> +<h1><span class="sm">NELSON'S</span><br /><br /> +HOME COMFORTS.</h1> + +<p class="center pad-t"> +<span class="b1">THIRTEENTH EDITION.</span><br /> +<br /> +<span class="sm">REVISED AND ENLARGED</span><br /> +<span class="smcap lg">By MARY HOOPER,</span><br /> +<span class="sm">AUTHOR OF "LITTLE DINNERS," "EVERY-DAY MEALS,"<br /> +"COOKERY FOR INVALIDS," <i>ETC. ETC.</i></span></p> + +<div class="tpdeco" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/tp-deco.png" width="150" height="96" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center">London:<br /> +G. NELSON, DALE & CO., LIMITED,<br /> +<span class="sm">14, DOWGATE HILL.<br /> +1892.</span></p> +</div> +<img src="images/tp-border1.png" alt="decorative border" /> +</div> + +<div class="skiplink"> +<p class="center">Skip to <a href="#CONTENTS">Table of Contents</a></p> +</div> + +<div class="ad2"> +<p class="center lh2">ANY OF<br /> +<span class="lger">NELSON'S SPECIALITIES</span><br /> +<span class="sm">MENTIONED IN THIS BOOK</span><br /> +<i>MAY BE OBTAINED FROM</i></p> + +<div class="smbox"> +<p class="center"> +<span class="med">W. CHAPLIN & SONS,</span><br /> +<span class="sm3">19 & 20, WATERLOO PLACE,</span><br /> +<span class="med">SOUTHAMPTON.</span></p> +<p class="pad-l sm3"> PLEASE SEND, S.W.R.</p> +</div> + +<p>They are also Sold by Grocers, Chemists, Italian +Warehousemen, etc., throughout the World. Should any +difficulty be experienced in obtaining them, kindly send the +name and address of your Grocer, and we will at once +communicate with him.</p> + +<div class="bt"> +<div class="trademark" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/trademark.png" width="350" height="81" alt="" title="TRADE MARK." /> +</div> +</div> + +<p class="bt center">G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.</p> +</div> + +<div class="ad"> +<p class="center lgst spacey">NELSON'S SPECIALITIES.</p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">PATENT OPAQUE GELATINE.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">In packets, from 6d. to 7s. 6d.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">CITRIC ACID.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">In 3d. packets. For use with the Gelatine.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">ESSENCE OF LEMON, ALMONDS, & VANILLA.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">In graduated bottles, 8d.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">FAMILY JELLY BOXES.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">7s. 6d. each.<br /> +Containing sufficient of the above materials for 12 quarts of Jelly.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">BOTTLED WINE JELLIES (Concentrated).</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">CALF'S FOOT, LEMON, SHERRY, PORT, ORANGE, AND CHERRY.<br /> +Quarts, 2s. 6d.; Pints, 1s. 4d.; Half-pints, 9d.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">TABLET JELLIES.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">ORANGE, LEMON, CALF'S FOOT, CHERRY, RASPBERRY, VANILLA, PORT, +SHERRY, ETC. Quarts, 9d.; Pints, 6d.; Half-pints, 3d.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">WINE TABLET JELLIES.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">PORT, SHERRY, ORANGE. Pints only, 9d.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">PATENT REFINED ISINGLASS.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">In 1s. packets.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">GELATINE LOZENGES. LIQUORICE LOZENGES.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">In Ornamental Tins, 6d.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">JELLY-JUBES.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">A most agreeable and nourishing Sweetmeat.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">EXTRACT OF MEAT.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2"><span class="smcap">For Soups, Gravies, etc.</span> In ounce packets, 4d.</span></p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">PURE BEEF TEA.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">In half-pint packets, 6d.</span></p> + +<p class="center med b1">SOUPS.</p> + +<table class="sm2" width="75%" summary="Nelson's Soups"> +<tr><td class="smcap">Beef and Carrots</td> <td class="center" rowspan="4">In pint packets, <br />6d. each.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="smcap">Beef and Celery</td></tr> +<tr><td class="smcap">Beef and Onion</td></tr> +<tr><td class="smcap">Mulligatawny</td></tr> +<tr><td class="smcap">Beef, Peas, and Vegetables</td> <td class="center" rowspan="2"> In quart packets,<br />6d. each.</td></tr> +<tr><td class="smcap">Beef, Lentils, and Vegetables</td></tr> +</table> + +<p class="center sm2"> +<span class="smcap">Penny Packets of Soup</span> for charitable purposes.</p> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="med b1">EGG ALBUMEN.</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">For clearing Jelly or Soup.<br /> +In boxes containing 12 packets, 9d. per box.</span></p> + +<p class="bt center">G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. +</p> +</div> + +<div class="adbox1"> + +<p class="center lh1 b1"> +<span class="spacey">LITTLE DINNERS</span>,<br /> +How to serve them with Elegance and Economy.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By Mary Hooper.</span></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Twenty-second Edition. <span class="pad-l-sm">Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d.</span></i></p> + +<p>"Shows us how to serve up a 'little dinner,' such as a philosopher +might offer a monarch—good, varied, in good taste, and cheap. +Exactly what the young English wife wishes to know, and what +the ordinary cookery book does not teach her."—<cite>Queen.</cite></p> + +<div class="decoline-ad"> +<img src="images/longish-line-thin.png" width="90" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center lh1 b1"> +<span class="spacey">EVERY-DAY MEALS</span>,<br /> +Being Economic and Wholesome Recipes for Plain Dinners, +Breakfasts, Luncheons, and Suppers.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By Mary Hooper.</span></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Eighth Edition. <span class="pad-l-sm">Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d.</span></i></p> + +<p>"Our already deep obligations to Miss Hooper are weightily increased +by this excellent and practical little book. The recipes for +little dishes are excellent, and so clearly worded that presumptuous +man instantly believes, on reading them, that he could descend into +the kitchen and 'toss up' the little dishes without any difficulty."—<cite>Spectator.</cite></p> + +<div class="decoline-ad"> +<img src="images/longish-line-thin.png" width="90" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center lh1 b1"> +<span class="spacey">COOKERY FOR INVALIDS</span>,<br /> +For Persons of Delicate Digestion, and for Children.</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By Mary Hooper.</span></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Sixth Edition. <span class="pad-l-sm">Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d.</span></i></p> + +<p>"An epicure might be content with the little dishes provided by +Miss Hooper; but, at the same time, the volume fills the utmost +extent of promise held out in the title-page."—<cite>Pall Mall Gazette.</cite></p> + +<div class="decoline-ad"> +<img src="images/longish-line-thin.png" width="90" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center">LONDON: KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, & CO.</p> +</div> + +<h2 class="pad"><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<table summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td></td><td align="right" class="ucsmcap">PAGE</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Preface</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Bottled Jellies</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Tablet Jellies</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Lemon Sponge</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Citric Acid and Pure Essence of Lemon</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Pure Essence of Almonds and Vanilla</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Gelatine Lozenges</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Jelly-Jubes</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Licorice Lozenges</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Albumen</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Extract of Meat</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Soups</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Beef Tea</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">New Zealand Mutton</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Tinned Meats</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr> + <tr><td class="pad-l">Gelatine</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Soups</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Little Dishes of Fish</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Little Dishes of Meat</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Puddings</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Jellies</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Creams</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Cakes</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Beverages</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Macaroni, etc.</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Hints on Housekeeping</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">New Zealand Frozen Mutton</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_119">119</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="smcap">Index</td> <td align="right"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td></tr> +</table> + +<h2 class="pad"> +<a name="Page_7" id="Page_7"></a>NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS.</h2> + +<div class="decoline2"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> presenting our friends and the public with +the thirteenth edition of our "Home Comforts," we +have the pleasure to remark that so greatly has the +book been appreciated, that the large number of +<span class="ucsmcap">FIVE HUNDRED THOUSAND</span> copies has been called for. +The value of the Jubilee Edition was enhanced by +some new recipes; these are repeated in the present +edition, to which, also, some valuable additions have +been made. Since the introduction of our Gelatine +by the late Mr. G. Nelson, more than fifty years ago, +we have considerably enlarged our list of specialities, +and we have gratefully to acknowledge the public +favour accorded to us.</p> + +<p>Among those of our preparations which have met +with so much appreciation and success, we would cite +the following:</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Bottled Jellies.</b>—It is sometimes so +difficult, if not impossible, to have a first-class jelly +made in private kitchens, that we venture to think +our <span class="smcap">Bottled Jellies</span> will be highly appreciated by +all housekeepers. It is not too much to say that a +ready-made jelly of the highest quality, and of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> +best and purest materials, requiring only the addition +of hot water, is now, for the first time, supplied. +Careful experiments, extending over a long period +of time, have been required to bring this excellent +and very useful preparation to its present state of +perfection, and it is confidently asserted that no +home-made jelly can surpass it in purity, brilliancy, +or delicacy of flavour. All that is necessary to prepare +the jelly for the table is to dissolve it by placing the +bottle in hot water, and then to add the given quantity +of water to bring it to a proper consistency. It is +allowed to stand until on the point of setting, and is +then put into a mould.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Calf's Foot, Lemon, Port, Sherry, +Orange, and Cherry Jellies</b> are now to be had +of all first-class grocers, and are put up in bottles +each containing sufficient of the concentrated preparation +to make a quart, pint, or half-pint.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Tablet Jellies</b> are recommended for +general use, are guaranteed of the purest and best +materials, and are flavoured with the finest fruit +essences. The Tablet Jellies are of so moderate +a price as to be within the reach of all classes, +and can be used as an every-day addition to the +family bill of fare. They are not, however, intended +as a substitute for high-class jellies, whether +bottled or home-made.</p> + +<p>The Tablet Jellies used as directed in the recipes +make, in a few minutes, creams of a most delicate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> +kind, remarkable for smoothness of texture and fine +flavour.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Port, Sherry, and Orange Wine +Tablet Jellies</b> have now been added to the list.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Lemon Sponge</b>, supplied in tins, is +a delicious novelty, and will be found to surpass any +that can be made at home.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Citric Acid and Pure Essence of +Lemon.</b>—In order to save the trouble of putting +jelly through a strainer when required for invalids, +we have introduced our Citric Acid and Essence of +Lemon, and by their use a jelly clear enough for all +ordinary purposes is made in a few minutes.</p> + +<p><b>Lemonade</b> and other beverages can be quickly +made, and with less expense than by any other +method, by using Nelson's Citric Acid and Essence +of Lemon, and for these recipes are given. Delicious +beverages are also made with Nelson's Bottled Jellies, +see <a href="#Page_93">page 93</a>.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Pure Essence of Almonds and +Vanilla.</b>—These Extracts, like the Essence of Lemon, +will be found of superior strength and flavour, and +specially adapted for the recipes in this book.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Gelatine Lozenges</b> are not only a +delicious sweetmeat, but most useful as voice lozenges, +or in cases of sore or irritable throat. The flavour is +very delicate and refreshing. Dissolved in water they +make a useful beverage, and also a jelly suitable for +children and invalids.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span> +<b>Nelson's Jelly-Jubes</b> will be found most +agreeable and nourishing sweetmeats, deliciously +flavoured with fruit essences. They can be used as +cough lozenges, will be found soothing for delicate +throats, are useful for travellers, and may be freely +given to children.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Licorice Lozenges</b> are not only a +favourite sweetmeat, but in cases of throat irritation +and cough are found to be soothing and curative.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Albumen</b> is the white of eggs carefully +dried and prepared, so that it will keep for an indefinite +length of time. It is useful for any purpose +to which the white of egg is applied, and answers +well for clearing soup and jelly. When required for +use, the albumen is soaked in cold water and whisked +in the usual way.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Extract of Meat.</b>—The numerous +testimonials which have been received as to the +excellence of this preparation, as well as the great +and universal demand for it, have afforded the highest +satisfaction to us as the manufacturers, and have +enabled us to offer it with increased confidence to the +public. It is invaluable, whether for making soup +or gravy, or for strengthening or giving flavour to +many dishes; and it is not only superior to, but far +cheaper than, any similar preparation now before the +public.</p> + +<p>Now that clear soup is so constantly required, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> +a thing of every-day use, Nelson's Extract of Meat +will be found a great boon. With the addition of a +little vegetable flavouring, a packet of the Extract will +make a pint of soup as good and as fine as that produced, +at much labour and expense, from fresh meat. +With a judicious use of the liquor derived from boiling +fowls, rabbits, and fresh meat, an endless variety of +soup may be made, by the addition of Nelson's +Extract of Meat. Some recipes are given by which +first-class soups can be prepared in a short time, at a +very small cost, and with but little trouble. It may +be as well to say that soaking for a few minutes in +cold water facilitates the solution of the Extract of +Meat.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Soups</b> are deserving of the attention of +every housekeeper, for they combine all the elements +of good nourishment, have an excellent flavour, both +of meat and vegetables, are prepared by merely +boiling the contents of a packet for fifteen minutes, +and are so cheap as to be within everybody's means. +Penny packets of these soups, for charitable purposes, +will be found most useful and nourishing.</p> + +<p>Those who have to cater for a family know how +often a little soup will make up a dinner that would +otherwise be insufficient; yet because of the time +and trouble required in the preparation, it is impossible +to have it. In a case like this, or when a +supplementary dish is unexpectedly required, Nelson's +Soups are most useful. Although these Soups are all +that can be desired, made with water according to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span> +the directions given with each packet, they can be +utilised with great advantage for strengthening household +stock.</p> + +<p>For instance, the liquor in which a leg of mutton +has been boiled, or of pork, if not too salt, can be at +once, by using a packet or two of Nelson's Soup, +converted into a delicious and nourishing soup, and +at a cost surprisingly small. Or the bones of any joint +can be made into stock, and, after all the fat has been +skimmed off, have a packet of Nelson's Soup added, +in the same manner as in the directions.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Beef Tea</b> will be found of the highest +value, supplying a cup of unequalled nourishment, +combining all the constituents of fresh beef. No +other preparation now before the public contains that +most important element, albumen, in a soluble form, +as well as much of the fibrin of the meat. This Beef +Tea is also generally relished by invalids, and merely +requires to be dissolved in boiling water.</p> + +<p><b>New Zealand Mutton.</b>—For information respecting +this meat, and the great advantage as well as +economy of its use, see <a href="#Page_119">page 119</a>.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Tinned Meats</b>, known as the +"Tomoana Brand," are prepared at the works of +<span class="smcap">Nelson Bros., Limited</span>, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, +from the finest cattle of the country. Messrs. <span class="smcap">Nelson</span> +specially recommend their "Pressed Mutton and +Green Peas," "Haricot Mutton," and "Pressed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> +Corned Mutton." The "Stewed Kidneys" will be +found of a quality superior to any articles of the kind +now in the market, while the price places them within +the reach of all classes of consumers.</p> + +<p><b>Nelson's Gelatine</b> having now been favourably +known all over the world for more than half a century, +it is unnecessary to do more than observe that our +efforts are constantly directed to supplying a perfectly +pure article, always of the same strength and quality. +When Russian isinglass was first introduced into this +country, the prejudices against its use on the part of +our great-grandmothers were violent and extreme; +for those worthy ladies would not believe that some +unfamiliar substance, of the origin of which they were +either ignorant or doubtful, could form an efficient +substitute for the well-known calves' feet and cow-heels, +from which they had always been in the habit +of making their jellies and blanc-manges. By degrees, +however, the Gelatine made its way, and at length +superseded the old system entirely; and its popularity +is demonstrated by the fact that the works at Emscote, +near Warwick, cover nearly five acres.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p>N.B.—It is necessary to call attention to the fact that +in all the following recipes in which Nelson's Gelatine and +Specialities are used, the quantities are calculated for +<em>their manufactures only</em>, the quality and strength of which +may be relied upon for uniformity.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/long-line-thin.png" width="175" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2>SOUPS.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<h3>BEEF AND ONION SOUP.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">A pint</span> of very good soup can be made by following +the directions which accompany each tin of +Nelson's Beef and Onion Soup, viz. to soak the +contents in a pint of cold water for fifteen minutes, +then place over the fire, stir, and boil for fifteen +minutes. It is delicious when combined with a tin +of Nelson's Extract of Meat, thus producing a quart +of nutritious and appetising soup.</p> + +<h3>NELSON'S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.</h3> + +<p>Soaked in cold water for a quarter of an hour, and +then boiled for fifteen minutes, Nelson's Mulligatawny +Soup is very appetising and delicious. It should be +eaten with boiled rice; and for those who like the +soup even hotter than that in the above preparation, +the accompanying rice may be curried. In either +case the rice should be boiled so that each grain +should be separate and distinct from the rest.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span></p> + +<h3>BEEF, LENTIL, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.</h3> + +<p>Pour one quart of boiling water upon the contents +of a tin of Nelson's Soup of the above title, stirring +briskly. The water must be boiling. A little seasoning +of salt and pepper may be added for accustomed +palates. This soup is perfectly delicious if prepared +as follows: Cut two peeled onions into quarters, tie +them in a muslin bag, and let the soup boil for twenty +minutes with them. Take out the bag before serving +the soup.</p> + +<h3>BEEF, PEA, AND VEGETABLE SOUP.</h3> + +<p>The directions printed on each packet of Nelson's +Beef, Pea, and Vegetable Soup produce a satisfactory +soup, but even this may be improved by the addition +of the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat +and a handful of freshly-gathered peas. It is perhaps +not generally known that pea-pods, usually thrown +away as useless, impart a most delicious flavour to +soup if boiled fast for two or three hours in a large +saucepan, strained, and the liquor added to the soup, +stock, or beef tea.</p> + +<h3>BEEF TEA AS A SOLID.</h3> + +<p>Soak the contents of a tin of Nelson's Beef Tea +in a gill of water for ten minutes. Add to this the +third of an ounce packet of Nelson's Gelatine, which +has been soaked for two or three hours in half-a-pint +of cold water. Put the mixture in a stewpan, and stir +until it reaches boiling-point. Then put it into a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> +mould which has been rinsed with cold water. When +thoroughly cold, this will turn out a most inviting and +extremely nutritious dish.</p> + +<h3>CLEAR VERMICELLI SOUP.</h3> + +<p>Boil two minced onions in a quart of the liquor in +which a leg of mutton has been boiled, skim well, +and when the vegetables are tender strain them out. +Pass the soup through a napkin, boil up, skim +thoroughly, and when clear add the contents of a +tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, stirring until +dissolved.</p> + +<p>Boil two ounces of vermicelli paste in a pint of +water until tender. Most shapes take about ten +minutes. Take care that the water boils when you +throw in the paste, and that it continues to do so +during all the time of cooking, as that will keep the +paste from sticking together. When done, drain it +in a strainer, put it in the tureen, and pour the soup +on to it.</p> + +<h3>SOUP JULIENNE.</h3> + +<p>Wash and scrape a large carrot, cut away all the +yellow parts from the middle, and slice the red outside +of it an inch in length, and the eighth of an inch +thick. Take an equal quantity of turnip and three +small onions, cut in a similar manner. Put them in +a stewpan with two ounces of butter and a pinch of +powdered sugar; stir over the fire until a nice brown +colour, then add a quart of water and a teaspoonful +of salt, and let all simmer together gently for two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> +hours. When done skim the fat off very carefully, and +ten minutes before serving add the contents of a tin of +Nelson's Extract of Meat, and a cabbage-lettuce cut +in shreds and blanched for a minute in boiling water; +simmer for five minutes and the soup will be ready. +Many cooks, to save time and trouble, use the preserved +vegetables, which are to be had in great +perfection at all good Italian warehouses.</p> + +<h3>BROWN RABBIT SOUP CLEAR.</h3> + +<p>Fry a quarter of a pound of onions a light brown; +mince a turnip and carrot and a little piece of celery; +boil these until tender in three pints of the liquor +in which a rabbit has been boiled, taking care to +remove all scum as it rises; strain them out, and +then pass the soup through a napkin. The soup +should be clear, or nearly so, but if it is not, put it +in a stewpan, boil and skim until bright; then throw +in the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, +soaked for a few minutes; stir until dissolved; add +pepper and salt to taste.</p> + +<h3>HARE SOUP.</h3> + +<p>Half roast a hare, and, having cut away the meat in +long slices from the backbone, put it aside to make +an <i lang="fr">entrée</i>. Fry four onions; take a carrot, turnip, +celery, a small quantity of thyme and parsley, half-a-dozen +peppercorns, a small blade of mace, some +bacon-bones or a slice of lean ham, with the body of +the hare cut up into small pieces; put all in two +quarts of water with a little salt. When you have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> +skimmed the pot, cover close and allow it to boil +gently for three hours, then strain it; take off every +particle of fat, and having allowed the soup to boil +up, add the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of +Meat, and thicken it with a dessertspoonful of +potato-flour; stir in two lumps of sugar, a glass of +port wine, and season if necessary.</p> + +<h3>MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.</h3> + +<p>English cooks generally err in making both +mulligatawny and curries too hot. It is impossible to +give the exact quantity of the powder, because it varies +so much in strength, and the cook must therefore be +guided by the quality of her material. Mulligatawny +may be made cheaply, and be delicious. The liquor +in which meat or fowl has been boiled will make a +superior soup, and fish-liquor will answer well. Slice +and fry brown four onions, quarter, but do not peel, +four sharp apples; boil them in three pints of stock +until tender, then rub through a sieve to a pulp. Boil +this up in the soup, skimming well; add the contents +of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and stir in two +ounces of flour and the curry-powder, mixed smooth +in half-a-pint of milk. Any little pieces of meat, +fowl, game, or fish may be added as an improvement +to the soup. Just before serving taste that the soup +is well-flavoured; add a little lemon-juice or vinegar.</p> + +<h3>THIN MULLIGATAWNY SOUP.</h3> + +<p>To a quart of the liquor in which a fresh haddock +has been boiled, add half-a-pint of water in which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> +onions have been boiled. Stir into this, after it has +been skimmed, and whilst boiling, the contents of a +tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and a teaspoonful of +curry-powder; let it boil up; add the juice of half a +lemon and serve.</p> + +<h3>BROWN ARTICHOKE SOUP.</h3> + +<p>Wash, peel, and cut into slices about half-an-inch thick +two pounds of Jerusalem artichokes. Fry them in a +little butter until brown; fry also brown half-a-pound +of sliced onions. Put these to boil in two quarts of +water with two turnips, a carrot sliced, two teaspoonfuls +of salt, and one of pepper. When the vegetables +are tender drain the liquor, set it aside to cool, and +remove all fat. Pass the vegetables through a fine +sieve to a nice smooth <i lang="fr">purée</i>. Those who possess a +Kent's "triturating strainer" will be able to do this +much more satisfactorily, both as regards time and +results, than by the old way of rubbing through a +sieve. Put the liquor on to boil, dissolve in it—according +to the strength the soup is required to +be—the contents of one or two tins of Nelson's +Extract of Meat, then add the vegetable <i lang="fr">purée</i>, a lump +or two of sugar, and if required, salt and pepper. Let +it boil up and serve.</p> + +<h3>TURTLE SOUP.</h3> + +<p>This soup is so often required for invalids, as well +as for the table, that an easy and comparatively +inexpensive method of preparing it cannot fail to be +acceptable. Nelson's Beef Tea or Extract of Meat +will be used instead of fresh beef, and Bellis's Sun-dried<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> +Turtle instead of live turtle. If convenient +it is desirable to soak the dried turtle all night, but it +can be used without doing so. Put it on to boil in +the water in which it was soaked, in the proportion of +one quart with a teaspoonful of salt to a quarter of a +pound of the turtle. Add two or three onions peeled +and quartered, a small bit of mace and sliced lemon-peel, +and simmer gently for four or five hours, or until +the turtle is tender enough to divide easily with a +spoon. Stock of any kind may be used instead of +water, and as the liquid boils away more should be +added, to keep the original quantity. Herbs for the +proper flavouring of the Turtle Soup are supplied by +Bellis; these should be put in about an hour before +the turtle is finished, and be tied in muslin. When +done take out the turtle and divide it into neat little +pieces; strain the liquor in which it was cooked, and +having boiled it up, stir in the contents of two tins of +Nelson's Extract of Meat, previously soaked for a few +minutes. Mix smooth in a gill of cold water a teaspoonful +of French potato-flour and of Vienna flour, +stir into the soup, and when it has thickened put in +the turtle meat; let it get hot through, add a wine-glassful +of sherry, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, +and salt and pepper to taste, and serve at once. It is +necessary to have "Bellis's Sun-dried Turtle," imported +by T. K. Bellis, Jeffrey's Square, St. Mary Axe, London +(sold in boxes), for this soup, because it is warranted properly +prepared. An inferior article, got up by negroes +from turtle found dead, is frequently sold at a low price; +but it is unnecessary to say it is not good or wholesome.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></p> + +<h3>MOCK TURTLE SOUP.</h3> + +<p>This, like real turtle soup, can be made of Nelson's +Extract of Meat and Bellis's Mock Turtle Meat. Boil +the contents of a tin of this meat in water or stock, +salted and flavoured with vegetables and turtle herbs, +until tender. Finish with Nelson's Extract of Meat, +and as directed for turtle soup.</p> + +<h3>GRAVY.</h3> + +<p>For roast meat, merely dissolve, after a little soaking, +a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat in a pint of boiling +water. For poultry or game, fry two onions a light +brown, mince a little carrot and turnip, put in half a +teaspoonful of herbs, tied in muslin, and boil until +tender, in a pint of water. Strain out the herbs, let +the liquor boil up, stir in the contents of a tin of +Nelson's Extract of Meat, and if the gravy is +required to be slightly thickened, add a small +teaspoonful of potato-flour mixed smooth in cold +water. For cutlets or other dishes requiring sharp +sauce, make exactly as above, and just before serving +add a little of any good piquant sauce, or pickles +minced finely.</p> + +<h3>GLAZE.</h3> + +<p>Soak in a small jar the contents of a tin of +Nelson's Extract of Meat in rather less than a gill +of cold water. Set the jar over the fire in a saucepan +with boiling water, and let the extract simmer +until dissolved. This is useful for strengthening +soups and gravies, and for glazing ham, tongues, +and other things.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">LITTLE DISHES OF FISH.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/longish-line-thin.png" width="90" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> recipes we are now giving are suitable for +dinner, supper, or breakfast dishes, and will be found +especially useful for the latter meal, as there is nothing +more desirable for breakfast than fish. We are constantly +told that it is not possible to have fresh fish +for breakfast, because it cannot be kept all night in +the home larder. But we must insist that there is no +greater difficulty in keeping fish than meat. Indeed, +there is perhaps less difficulty, because fish can be +left lying in vinegar, if necessary, whereas in the case +of meat it cannot always be done.</p> + +<p>We will suppose that it is necessary to use strict +economy. It is as well to proceed on that supposition, +because people can always be lavish in their expenditure, +whereas it is not so easy to provide for the +household at once well and economically. In many +neighbourhoods fish is sold much cheaper late in the +day than in the morning, and in this case the housekeeper +who can buy overnight for the use of the next +day has a great advantage. Suppose you get the tail +of a cod weighing three pounds, as you frequently may, +at a very small price in the evening, and use a part of +it stuffed and baked for supper, you can have a dish +of cutlets of the remainder for breakfast which will be +very acceptable. We do not mean a dish of the cold +remains, but of a portion of the fish kept uncooked, +as it easily may be, as we have before said, by dipping +it in vinegar. Or, you get mackerel. Nothing is better +than this fish treated according to the recipe we give.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> +Even so delicate a fish as whiting may, by a little +management with vinegar, be kept perfectly well from +one day to the other. Skinned whiting has very +little flavour, and although when skilfully cooked in +the usual way it is useful by way of change, the +nourishment is much impaired by the removal of the +skin. The same remark applies to soles. By frying +fish unskinned you get a dish of a different character +to that of skinned fish, and one of which the appetite +does not so soon tire.</p> + +<h3>FRIED SOLE.</h3> + +<p>Soles weighing from three-quarters of a pound to a +pound are the most suitable size for frying whole. If +it is desired to have the fish juicy and with their full +flavour, do not have them skinned. The black side +of the soles will not of course look so well, or be so +crisp, as the white side, but this is of little consequence +compared to the nourishment sacrificed in removing +the skin. Have the soles scraped, wipe them, put a +tablespoonful of vinegar in a dish, pass the fish through +it, and let them lie an hour or more, if necessary all +night, as the flavour is thus improved. Run a knife +along the backbone, which prevents it looking red +when cut. When ready to crumb the fish, lay them +in a cloth and thoroughly dry them. Beat up the yolk +of an egg with a very little of the white, which will be +sufficient to egg a pair of soles; pass the fish through +the egg on both sides, hold it up to drain; have ready +on a plate a quarter of a pound of very fine dry +crumbs, mixed with two ounces of flour, a teaspoonful +of salt, and half a teaspoonful of pepper. Draw the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> +fish over the crumbs, first on one side, then on the +other, and lay it gently on a dish, black side downwards, +whilst you prepare another. Some people +succeed better in crumbing fish by sifting the crumbs +on to it through a very fine strainer after it is egged. +When the fish are ready put them, black side downwards, +into the frying-pan with plenty of fat, hot +enough to brown a piece of bread instantaneously, +move the pan about gently, and when the soles have +been fried four minutes, put a strong cooking-fork into +them near the head, turn the white side downwards, +and fry three minutes longer. Seven minutes will be +sufficient to fry a sole weighing three-quarters of a +pound, and a pair of this weight is sufficient for a +party of six persons. When the sole is done put the +fork into the fish close to the head, hold it up and let +all the fat drain away, lay it on a sheet of cap paper, +and cover over with another sheet. Being thus quite +freed from grease, of a rich golden brown, crisp, and +with an even surface, lay the fish on the dish for +serving, which should have on it either a fish-paper +or a napkin neatly folded. A well-fried sole is best +eaten without any sauce, but in deference to the +national usage, butter sauce, or melted butter, may be +served with it.</p> + +<h3>FILLETED SOLES.</h3> + +<p>It is better for the cook to fillet the soles, for +there is often much waste when it is done by the fishmonger. +Having skinned the fish, with a sharp knife +make an incision down the spine-bone from the head +to the tail, and then along the fins; press the knife<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> +between the flesh and the bone, bearing rather hard +against the latter, and the fillets will then be readily +removed. These can now be dressed in a variety of +ways; perhaps the most delicate for breakfast is the +following:</p> + +<h3>FILLETS OF SOLE SAUTÉS.</h3> + +<p>Having dried the fillets, divide them into neat +pieces two or three inches long; dip them in the +beaten yolk of egg, and then in seasoned bread-crumbs. +Make a little butter hot in the frying-pan, +put in the fillets and cook them slowly until brown on +one side, then turn and finish on the other.</p> + +<h3>FILLETS OF SOLE FRIED.</h3> + +<p>These may either be rolled in one piece or divided +into several, as in the foregoing recipe. In either case +egg and crumb them thoroughly, place them in the +wire-basket as you do them, which immerse in fat hot +enough to crisp bread instantly. When done, put the +fillets on paper to absorb any grease clinging to them, +and serve as hot as possible. All kinds of flat fish +can be filleted and cooked by these recipes, and will +usually be found more economical than serving the +fish whole. It is also economical to fillet the tail-end +of cod, salmon, and turbot, and either fry or <i lang="fr">sauté</i>, as +may be preferred.</p> + +<h3>FILLETS OF SOLE WITH LOBSTER.</h3> + +<p>Thin and fillet a pair of soles, each weighing about +a pound. Roll the fillets, secure them with thread, +which remove before serving; put them in a stewpan +with two ounces of sweet butter, cover closely, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> +allow them to cook at a slow heat for twenty minutes +or until tender, taking care to keep them from getting +brown. Prepare a sauce by boiling a quarter of a +pound of veal cutlet and the bones of the fish in half-a-pint +of water. When reduced to a gill, strain and +take off all fat from the sauce, thicken either with fine +flour or "Rizine," put it into the stewpan with the +fish, and allow it to stand for a quarter of an hour +without boiling. Mince or cut in small pieces either +the meat of a small fresh lobster, or half a flat tin of +the best brand of preserved lobster. Make this hot +by putting it in a jam pot standing in a saucepan of +boiling water. Take up the fish, carefully pour the +sauce round, and place on the top of each fillet some +of the lobster.</p> + +<h3>BAKED WHITING.</h3> + +<p>Small whiting answer well for this purpose. Tie +them round, the tail to the mouth, dip them in dissolved +butter, lightly sprinkle with pepper and salt, +strew them with pale raspings, put them in a baking-dish +with a little butter, and bake in a quick oven for +a quarter of an hour.</p> + +<h3>COD CUTLETS.</h3> + +<p>A cheap and excellent dish is made by filleting the +tail of cod, egging and crumbing the pieces and frying +them. Get about a pound and a half of the tail of a +fine cod; with a sharp knife divide the flesh from the +bone lengthways, cut it into neat pieces as nearly of a +size as you can, and flatten with a knife. Dip in egg, +then in crumbs mixed with a little flour, pepper, and +salt. It is best to fry the cutlets in the wire-basket in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> +plenty of fat, but if this is not convenient they can be +done in the frying-pan; in any case, they should be +done quickly, so that they may get crisp.</p> + +<h3>FRIED HERRINGS.</h3> + +<p>Take care the fish is well cleaned, without being +split. Two or three hours before cooking, lightly +sprinkle with salt and pepper; when ready to cook, +wipe and flour the herrings. Have ready in the +frying-pan as much fat at the proper temperature as +will cover the herrings. Cook quickly at first, then +moderate the heat slightly, and fry for ten to twelve +minutes, when they should be crisp and brown. When +done, lay them on a dish before the fire, in order that +all fat and the fish-oil may drain from them; with +this precaution, fried herrings will be found more +digestible than otherwise they would be.</p> + +<h3>ROLLED HERRINGS.</h3> + +<p>Choose the herrings with soft roes. Having scraped +and washed them, cut off the heads, split open, take +out the roes, and cleanse the fish. Hold one in the +left hand, and, with thumb and finger of the right, +press the backbone to loosen it, then lay flat on the +board and draw out the bone; it will come out whole, +leaving none behind. Dissolve a little fresh butter, +pass the inner side of the fish through it, sprinkle +pepper and salt lightly over, then roll it up tightly +with the fin and tail outwards, roll it in flour and +sprinkle a little pepper and salt, then put a small +game skewer to keep the herring in shape. Have +ready a good quantity of boiling fat; it is best to do +the herrings in a wire-basket, and fry them quickly for +ten minutes. Take them up and set them on a plate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> +before the fire, in order that all the fat may drain from +them. Pass the roes through flour mixed with a +sufficient quantity of pepper and salt, fry them brown, +and garnish the fish with them and crisp parsley. A +difficulty is often felt in introducing herrings at dinner +on account of the number of small bones in them, but +this is obviated by the above method of dressing, as +with care not one bone should be left in.</p> + +<h3>GALANTINE OF FISH.</h3> + +<p>Procure a fine large fresh haddock and two smaller, +of which to make forcemeat. Take off the head and +open the large fish. Carefully press the meat from +the backbone, which must be removed without breaking +the skin; trim away the rough parts and small bones +at the sides. Cover the inside of the fish with a layer +of forcemeat, and at intervals place lengthways a few +fillets of anchovies, between which sprinkle a little +lobster coral which has been passed through a wire +sieve; fold the haddock into its original form, and sew +it up with a needle and strong thread. Dip a cloth +in hot water, wring it as dry as possible, butter +sufficient space to cover the fish, then fold it up, tie +each end, and put a small safety pin in the middle to +keep it firm. Braise the galantine for an hour in stock +made from the bones of the fish. Let it stay in the +liquor until cold, when take it up and draw out the +sewing thread. Reduce and strain the liquor, mix +with cream and aspic jelly, or Nelson's Gelatine, +dissolved in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint. +When this sauce is on the point of setting, coat the +galantine with it, sprinkle with little passed lobster coral, +dish in a bed of shred salad, tastefully interspersed +with beetroot cut in dice and dipped in oil and vinegar.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> +To make the forcemeat, pound the fillets of the small +haddocks till fine, then work in about half its quantity +of bread panada, an ounce of butter, and the fillets of +two anchovies; season with salt and pepper, mix in +one egg and a yolk, pass through a wire sieve, and +work into it a gill of cream.</p> + +<h3>FILLETS OF SOLE EN ASPIC.</h3> + +<p>Aspic jelly, or meat jelly, may be made very good, +and at a moderate cost, by boiling lean beef or veal in +water with a little vegetable and spice. To make it +according to the standard recipes is so expensive and +tedious that few persons care to attempt it. The +following directions will enable a cook to make an +excellent and clear aspic.</p> + +<p>Cut two pounds of lean beefsteak or veal cutlet +into dice, put it on in two quarts of cold water, and as +soon as it boils, take off the scum as it rises. Let it +simmer gently for half-an-hour; then add four onions, +a turnip, carrot, small bundle of sweet herbs, blade of +mace, half-a-dozen white peppercorns, and when it has +again boiled for an hour strain it through a napkin. +Let it stand until cold, remove all the fat, boil it up, +and to a quart of the liquor put an ounce of Nelson's +Gelatine, previously soaked in cold water. Add salt +and a pinch of cayenne pepper, and when the jelly is +cool stir in the whites and shells of two eggs well +beaten. Let the jelly boil briskly for two minutes, +let it stand off the fire for a few minutes, then strain +through a jelly-bag and use as directed. Take the +fillets of a pair of large thick soles, cut them into neat +square pieces, leaving the trimmings for other dishes, +and lay them in vinegar with a little salt for an hour. +As they must be kept very white the best French<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> +vinegar should be used. Boil the fillets gently in +salted water, with a little vinegar, till done; take them +up and dry them on a cloth. Have ready some picked +parsley and hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters; arrange +these neatly at the bottom of a plain mould so as to +form a pretty pattern. Pour in very gently enough +jelly to cover the first layer, let it stand until beginning +to set, then put another layer of fish, eggs, and parsley, +then more jelly, and so on until the mould is full. +When done set the mould on ice, or allow it to stand +some hours in a cold place to get well set. Turn it +out, ornament with parsley, beetroot, and cut lemon.</p> + +<h3>COLLARED EELS.</h3> + +<p>Clean and boil the eels in water highly seasoned +with pepper and salt, an onion, bay-leaf, a clove, and +a little vinegar. When the eels are done enough, slip +out the bones and cut them up into pieces about two +inches long. Take the liquor in which the fish is +boiled, strain it, let it boil in the stewpan without the +lid, skimming it until it becomes clear. Dissolve a +quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine to each half-pint +of the fish gravy, and boil together for a minute, +let it then stand until cool. Arrange the pieces of +eel tastefully in a plain mould with small sprigs of +curled parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs, and, if +you like, a fillet or two of anchovies cut up into dice. +When all the fish is thus arranged in the mould, pour +the jelly in very gently, a tablespoonful at a time, in +order not to disturb the solid material. Let the mould +stand in cold water for seven or eight hours, when it +can be turned out. Ornament with parsley, lemon, +and beetroot.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">LITTLE DISHES OF MEAT.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> this chapter a number of useful and inexpensive +dishes are given, which will serve either as breakfast +dishes, <i lang="fr">entrées</i>, or for invalids, and which may, in the +hands of an intelligent cook, serve as models for +many others. As will be seen, it is not so much a +question of expense to provide these little tasty dishes +as of management. In all the following recipes for +little dishes of mutton, it will be found a great +advantage to use New Zealand Meat.</p> + +<p>A good cook will never be embarrassed by having +too much cold meat on hand, because she will be able +by her skill so to vary the dishes that the appetites of +those for whom she caters will never tire of it. Even +a small piece of the loin of mutton may be served in +half-a-dozen different ways, and be relished by those +who are tired of the mutton-chop or the plain roast.</p> + +<h3>MUTTON CUTLETS.</h3> + +<p>Taken from the neck, mutton cutlets are expensive, +but those from the loin will be found not only convenient, +but to answer well at a smaller cost.</p> + +<p>First remove the under-cut or fillet from about two +pounds of the best end of a loin of mutton, cut off +the flap, which will be useful for stewing, and it is +especially good eaten cold, and then remove the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> +meat from the bones in one piece, which divide +with the fillet into cutlets about half-an-inch thick. +Egg them over and dip them in well-seasoned bread-crumbs, +fry them until a nice brown, and serve with +gravy made from the bones and an onion.</p> + +<p>This way of cooking the loin is much more economical +than in chops, because with them the bones and flap +are wasted, whereas in cutlets all is used up.</p> + +<p>To stew the flap, put it in a stewpan, the fat downwards, +sprinkle pepper and salt, and slice an onion or +two over, and set it to fry gently in its own fat for an +hour. Take up the meat, and put half-a-pint of cold +water to the fat, which, when it has risen in a solid +cake, take off, mix a little flour with the gravy which +will be found beneath the fat, add pepper, salt, and +some cooked potatoes cut in slices. Cut the meat +into neat squares; let it simmer gently in the gravy +with the potatoes for an hour.</p> + +<h3>ROULADES OF MUTTON.</h3> + +<p>Remove the fillet from a fine loin of mutton, trim +away every particle of skin, fat, and gristle. Flatten +the fillet with a cutlet-bat, and cut it lengthways into +slices as thin as possible; divide these into neat +pieces about three inches long. Sprinkle each with +pepper, salt, and finely-chopped parsley, roll them +up tightly, then dip in beaten egg, and afterwards +in finely-sifted bread-crumbs mixed with an equal +quantity of flour and highly seasoned with pepper +and salt. As each roulade is thus prepared place it +on a game-skewer, three or four on each skewer.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> +Dissolve an ounce of butter in a small frying-pan, +and cook the roulades in it.</p> + +<h3>MUTTON COLLOPS.</h3> + +<p>Cut neat thin slices from a leg of either roasted or +boiled mutton, dip them in yolk of egg and in fine +dry bread-crumbs to which a little flour, pepper, and +salt have been added. Heat enough butter in a small +frying-pan to just cover the bottom, put in the slices +of mutton and cook them very slowly, first on one +side then on the other, until they are brown. Garnish +the dish on which the mutton is served with some +fried potatoes or potato chips.</p> + +<h3>MUTTON SAUTÉ.</h3> + +<p>Put a little butter or bacon fat in the frying-pan, +sprinkle pepper and salt over slices of cold mutton, +and let them get hot very slowly. The mutton must +be frequently turned, and never allowed to fry. +When turned in the pan for the last time sprinkle a +little chopped parsley on the upper side; remove the +slices carefully on to a hot dish, pour the fat in the +pan over, and serve.</p> + +<h3>COLD MUTTON POTTED.</h3> + +<p>Cut up the mutton, being careful to free it from +all sinew and skin; chop or pound it with half its +weight of cooked bacon until it is as fine as desired. +Season with a little pepper, salt, and allspice, put it +into a jar, which set in a saucepan of water over the +fire until the meat is hot through. When taken up stir<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> +occasionally until cool, then press it into little pots, +and pour clarified butter or mutton fat over the top. +If liked, a little essence of anchovy may be added to +the seasoning.</p> + +<h3>MUTTON PIES.</h3> + +<p>Mince a quarter of a pound of underdone mutton, +taking care to have it free from skin and fat. Mix +with it a tablespoonful of rich gravy—that which is +found under a cake of dripping from a joint is +particularly suitable for this purpose—add a few drops +of essence of anchovy, a pinch of cayenne pepper, and +a small teaspoonful of minced parsley. If necessary +add salt.</p> + +<p>Line four patty-pans with puff paste, divide the +mutton into equal portions and put it into the pans, +cover each with a lid of paste, and bake in a quick +oven for half-an-hour.</p> + +<h3>OX BRAIN.</h3> + +<p>Having carefully washed the brain, boil it very fast, +in order to harden it, in well-seasoned gravy. When +it is done, take it out of the gravy and set it aside +until cold. Cut it either in slices or in halves, dip +each piece in egg, then in bread-crumbs well seasoned +with dried and sifted parsley, pepper, and salt, fry +them in a little butter until brown. The gravy +having become cold, take off the fat, and boil it in a +stewpan without a lid until it is reduced to a small +quantity; pour it round the brain, and serve.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span></p> + +<h3>BRAIN FRITTERS.</h3> + +<p>Carefully wash an ox brain, and boil it for a +quarter of an hour in well-seasoned stock. When +the brain is cold, cut it into slices as thin as +possible, dip each of them in batter, drop them as +you do them into a stewpan half-full of fat at a +temperature of 430°, or that which will brown +instantly a piece of bread dipped into it. To make +the batter, mix two large tablespoonfuls of fine flour +with four of cold water, stir in a tablespoonful of +dissolved butter or of fine oil, the yolk of an egg, +and a pinch of salt and pepper; when ready to use, +beat the white of the egg to a strong froth, and mix +with it. Do not fry more than two fritters at once; +as you take them up, throw them on paper to absorb +any grease clinging to them, serve on a napkin or +ornamental dish-paper. If this recipe is closely +followed, the fritters will be light, crisp, delicate +morsels, melting in the mouth, and form besides +a very pretty dish. Garnish with fried parsley; take +care the parsley is thoroughly dry, put it into a +small frying-basket, and immerse it for an instant +in the fat in which the fritters are to be cooked. +Turn it out on paper, dry, and serve.</p> + +<h3>MARROW TOAST.</h3> + +<p>Let the butcher break up a marrow-bone. Take +out the marrow in as large pieces as possible, and put +them into a stewpan with a little boiling water, rather +highly salted. When the marrow has boiled for a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> +minute, drain the water away through a fine strainer. +Have ready a slice of lightly-toasted bread, place the +marrow on it, and put it into a Dutch oven before the +fire for five minutes, or until it is done. Sprinkle +over it a little pepper and salt, and a small teaspoonful +of parsley, chopped fine. The toast must be served +very hot.</p> + +<h3>CHICKEN IN ASPIC JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Cut the white part of a cold boiled chicken, and +as many similar pieces of cold ham, into neat rounds, +not larger than a florin. Run a little aspic jelly into +a fancy border mould, allow it to set, and arrange a +decoration of boiled carrot and white savoury custard +cut crescent shape, dipping each piece in melted +aspic. Pour in a very little more jelly, and when it is +set place the chicken and ham round alternately, +with a sprig of chervil, or small salad, here and there. +Put in a very small quantity of aspic to keep this in +place, then, when nearly set, sufficient to cover it. +Arrange another layer, this time first of ham then of +chicken, fix them in the same way, and fill up the +mould with aspic jelly. When the dish is turned out +fill the centre with cold green peas, nicely seasoned, +and garnish round with chopped aspic and little stars +of savoury custard. To make this, soak a quarter of +an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of milk, +dissolve it over the fire, and stir in a gill of thick +cream, season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt, +and, if liked, a little grate of nutmeg. Pour the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> +custard on to a large dish, and when cold cut it into +the required shapes.</p> + +<h3>VEAL CUTLETS IN WHITE SAUCE.</h3> + +<p>Cut six or seven cutlets, about half-an-inch thick, +from a neck of veal, braise them in half-a-pint of good +white stock with an onion, a small bunch of herbs, a +bacon bone, and two or three peppercorns, until they +are done. Let the cutlets get cool in the liquor, then +drain them. Strain the liquor and make a white sauce +with it; add a tablespoonful of thick cream and a +quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved in +a gill of milk; season with salt and cayenne pepper, +stirring occasionally until quite cold. Dip the cutlets +in, smoothly coating one side, and before the sauce sets +decorate them with very narrow strips of truffle in the +form of a star. Cut as many pieces of cooked tongue +or ham as there are cutlets, dish them alternately in a +circle on a border of aspic, fill the centre with a salad +composed of all kinds of cold cooked vegetables, cut +with a pea-shaped cutter and seasoned with oil, +vinegar, pepper, and salt. Garnish with aspic jelly +cut lozenge shape and sprigs of chervil.</p> + +<h3>KIDNEYS SAUTÉS.</h3> + +<p>Like many other articles of diet, kidneys within the +last ten years have been doubled in price, and are so +scarce as to be regarded as luxuries. The method of +cooking them generally in use is extravagant, and +renders them tasteless and indigestible. Kidneys<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> +should never be cooked rapidly, and those persons +who cannot eat them slightly underdone should forego +them. One kidney dressed as directed in the following +recipe will go as far as two cooked in the ordinary +manner—an instance, if one were needed, of the +economy of well-prepared food.</p> + +<p>Choose fine large kidneys, skin them and cut each +the round way into thin slices: each kidney should +yield from ten to twelve slices. Have ready a tablespoonful +of flour highly seasoned with pepper and +salt and well mixed together; dip each piece of +kidney in it. Cut some neat thin squares of streaked +bacon, fry them <em>very slowly</em> in a little butter; when +done, put them on the dish for serving, and keep hot +whilst you <i lang="fr">sauté</i> the kidneys, which put into the fat +the bacon was cooked in. In about a minute the +gravy will begin to rise on the upper side, then +turn the kidneys and let them finish cooking slowly; +when they are done, as they will be in three to four +minutes, the gravy will again begin to rise on the side +which is uppermost. Put the kidneys on the dish +with the bacon, and pour over them a spoonful or +two of plain beef gravy, or water thickened with a +little flour, boiled and mixed with the fat and gravy +from the kidneys in the frying-pan. If there is too +much fat in the pan, pour it away before boiling up +the gravy. Serve the kidneys on a hot-water dish.</p> + +<h3>TINNED KIDNEYS WITH MUSHROOMS.<br /> +<span class="norm">(<i>Tomoana Brand.</i>)</span></h3> + +<p>Dry a half-tin of champignons in a cloth, or, if +convenient, prepare a similar quantity of fresh button<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> +mushrooms; add to these a few pieces of dried mushrooms, +previously soaked for ten minutes in tepid +water, put them into a stewpan with a slice of butter, +and stir constantly for six minutes, then add two or +three kidneys cut in small neat pieces, in the shape of +dice is best, and continue stirring until the kidneys +are hot through, taking care to do them slowly; at +the last moment season with pepper and salt, and +serve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried sippets +of bread.</p> + +<h3>KIDNEYS WITH PICCALILLI SAUCE.<br /> +<span class="norm">(<i>Tomoana Brand.</i>)</span></h3> + +<p>Take the kidneys out of the gravy, and cut them +into six slices. Mix a small teaspoonful of curry +powder with three teaspoonfuls of fine flour and a +small pinch of salt. Dip each slice in this mixture, +and when all are done put them in the frying-pan +with a little butter, and let them get slowly hot +through. When done, put the kidneys in the centre +of a hot dish, and pour round them a sauce made as +follows: Boil up the gravy of the kidneys, and stir +into it sufficient minced piccalilli pickles to make it +quite thick, add a teaspoonful of flour to a tablespoonful +of the piccalilli vinegar, stir into the sauce, +and when all has boiled up together, pour it round +the kidneys.</p> + +<h3>BROILED KIDNEYS.</h3> + +<p>These are quite an epicure's dish, and care must +be taken to cook them slowly. Having skinned the +kidneys (they must not be split or cut) dip them for a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> +moment in boiling fat, place them on the gridiron +over a slow fire, turning them every minute. They +will take ten to fifteen minutes to cook, and will be +done as soon as the gravy begins to run. Place them +on a hot dish rubbed over with butter, salt and +pepper them rather highly. It must be understood +that kidneys thus cooked ought to have the gravy in +them, and that when they are cut at table it should +run from them freely and in abundance.</p> + +<h3>LAMB'S FRY.</h3> + +<p>A really proper fry should consist not only of sweetbreads +and liver, but of the heart, melt, brains, frill, +and kidneys, each of which requires a different treatment. +It is quite as easy to cook a fry properly as to +flour and fry it hard and over-brown, as is too frequently +done. Trim the sweetbreads neatly, and +simmer them for a quarter of an hour in good white +stock with an onion. When they are done take them +up and put the brains in the gravy, allowing them to +boil as fast as possible in order to harden them; let +them get cold, then cut into slices, egg and bread-crumb +them, and fry with the sweetbread in a little +butter. After the brains are taken out of the gravy, +put the slices of heart and melt in, and let them stew +slowly until tender. When they are ready, flour them, +and fry with the liver and frill until brown. Lastly, +put the kidneys, cut in slices, into the pan, and very +gently fry for about a minute. Shake a little flour onto +the pan, stir it about until it begins to brown; then +pour on to it the gravy, in which the sweetbreads, etc.,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> +were stewed, see it is nicely seasoned, and pour round +the fry, which should be neatly arranged in the centre +of the dish. Garnish with fried parsley.</p> + +<h3>LAMB'S SWEETBREADS.</h3> + +<p>These make an admirable breakfast dish, and can +be partly prepared over-night. Trim and wash the +sweetbreads, put them into a saucepan with sufficient +well-flavoured stock to cover them, a minced onion +and a sprig of lemon-thyme; boil gently for fifteen +minutes, or a little longer if necessary. Take them +up, drain, dip in egg and finely-sifted bread-crumbs +mixed with a little flour, pepper, and salt. Fry very +carefully, so as not to make it brown or hard, some +small slices of bacon, keep warm whilst you fry the +sweetbreads in the fat which has run from it, adding, +if required, a little piece of butter or lard. For a +breakfast dish, the sweetbreads should be served +without gravy, but if for an <i lang="fr">entrée</i> the liquor in which +they were stewed, with slight additions and a little +thickening, can be poured round them in the dish. +Calves' sweetbreads are prepared in the same manner +as the above, and can either be fried, finished in a +Dutch oven, or served white, with parsley and butter, +or white sauce.</p> + +<h3>VEAL À LA CASSEROLE.</h3> + +<p>For this dish a piece of the fillet about three inches +thick will be required, and weighing from two to three +pounds. It should be cut from one side of the leg,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> +without bone; but sometimes butchers object to give +it, as cutting in this manner interferes with cutlets. +In such a case a piece must be chosen near the +knuckle, and the bone be taken out before cooking. +For a larger party, a thick slice of the fillet, weighing +about four pounds, will be found advantageous.</p> + +<p>With a piece of tape tie the veal into a round shape, +flour, and put it into a stewpan with a small piece of +butter, fry until it becomes brown on all sides. Then +put half a pint of good gravy, nicely seasoned with +pepper and salt, cover the stewpan closely, and set it +on the stove to cook very slowly for at least four +hours. When done, the veal will be exquisitely tender, +full of flavour, but not the least ragged. Take the +meat up, and keep hot whilst the gravy is reduced, by +boiling without the lid of the saucepan, to a rich +glaze, which pour over the meat and serve.</p> + +<h3>BROWN FRICASSÉE OF CHICKEN.</h3> + +<p>This is a brown fricassée of chicken, and is an +excellent dish. No doubt the reason it is so seldom +given is that, although easy enough to do, it requires +care and attention in finishing it. Many of the best +cooks, in the preparation of chickens for fricassée, cut +them up before cooking, but we prefer to boil them +whole, and afterwards to divide them, as the flesh +thus is less apt to shrink and get dry. The chicken +can be slowly boiled in plain water, with salt and +onions, or, as is much better, in white broth of any +kind. When the chicken is tender cut it up; take<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> +the back, and the skin, pinions of the wings, and +pieces which do not seem nice enough for a superior +dish, and boil them in a quart of the liquor in which +it was boiled. Add mushroom trimmings, onions, +and a sprig of thyme; boil down to one-half, then +strain, take off all fat, and stir over the fire with the +yolk of two eggs and an ounce of fine flour until +thickened. Dip each piece of chicken in some of +this sauce, and when they are cold pass them through +fine bread-crumbs, then in the yolk of egg, and crumb +again. Fry carefully in hot fat. Dish the chicken +with a border of fried parsley, and the remainder of +the gravy poured round the dish. This dish is +generally prepared by French cooks by frying the +chicken in oil, and seasoning with garlic; but unless +the taste of the guests is well known, it is safer to +follow the above recipe.</p> + +<h3>CHICKEN SAUTÉ.</h3> + +<p>Put any of the meat of the breast or of the wings +without bone into a frying-pan with a little fresh butter +or bacon fat. Cook them very slowly, turning repeatedly; +if the meat has not been previously cooked +it will take ten minutes, and five minutes if a <i lang="fr">réchauffé</i>. +Sprinkle with pepper, and serve with mushrooms or +broiled bacon. The legs of cooked chickens are +excellent <i lang="fr">sautés</i>, but they should be boned before they +are put into the pan.</p> + +<h3>POTATO HASH.</h3> + +<p>Put some cold potatoes chopped into the frying-pan +with a little fat, stir them about for five minutes,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> +then add to them an equal quantity of cold meat, cut +into neat little squares, season nicely with pepper and +salt, fry gently, stirring all the time, until thoroughly +hot through.</p> + +<h3>DRY CURRY.</h3> + +<p>Fry a minced onion in butter until lightly browned, +cut up the flesh of two cooked chicken legs, or any +other tender meat, into dice, mix this with the onions, +and stir them together over the fire until the meat is +hot through; sprinkle over it about a small teaspoonful +of curry-powder, and salt to taste. Having thoroughly +mixed the meat with the curry-powder, pour over it +a tablespoonful of milk or cream, and stir over the +fire until the moisture has dried up. Celery salt may +be used instead of plain salt, and some persons add a +few drops of lemon-juice when the curry is finished.</p> + +<h3>CROQUETTES.</h3> + +<p>Croquettes of all kinds, fish, game, poultry or any +delicate meats, can be successfully made on the following +model: Whatever material is used must be finely +minced or pounded. Care is required in making the +sauce, if it is too thin it is difficult to mould the +croquettes, and ice will be required to set it. Croquettes +of game without any flavouring, except a little +salt and cayenne, are generally acceptable as a breakfast +dish. Preserved lobster makes very good croquettes +for an <i lang="fr">entrée</i>, and small scraps of any kind can +thus be made into a very good dish. Put one ounce +of fine flour into a stewpan with half a gill of cold<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span> +water, stir this over a slow fire very rapidly until it +forms a paste, then add one ounce of butter, and stir +until well incorporated. Mix in a small teaspoonful +of essence of shrimps or anchovies, with a pinch of +salt and pepper. Take the stewpan off the fire, and +stir the yolk of an egg briskly into the sauce; +thoroughly mix it with half-a-pound of pounded fish +or meat, spread it out on a plate until it is cool. +Flour your hands, take a small piece of the croquette +mixture, roll into a ball or into the shape of a cork, +then pass it through very finely-sifted and dried bread-crumbs. +Repeat the process until all the mixture is +used; put the croquettes as you do them into a wire +frying-basket, which shake very gently, when all are +placed in it, in order to free them from superfluous +crumbs. Have ready a stewpan half-full of boiling +fat, dip the basket in, gently moving it about, and +taking care the croquettes are covered with fat. In +about a minute they will become a delicate brown, +and will then be done. Turn them on a paper to +absorb any superfluous fat, serve them on a napkin or +ornamental dish paper. No more croquettes than +will lie on the bottom of the basket without touching +each other should be fried at once.</p> + +<h3>MEAT CAKES À L'ITALIENNE.</h3> + +<p>Mix very fine any kind of cold meat or chicken, +taking care to have it free from skin and gristle, add +to it a quarter of its weight of sifted bread-crumbs, +a few drops of essence of anchovy, a little parsley, +pepper and salt, and sufficient egg to moisten the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> +whole. Flour your hands, roll the meat into little +cakes about the size of a half-crown piece, then flatten +the cakes with the back of a spoon, dip them in egg +and fine bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little butter +until lightly browned on the outside. Put them on a +hot dish and garnish with boiled Italian paste.</p> + +<h3>RAISED PORK PIE.</h3> + +<p>Take a pound of meat, fat and lean, from the +chump end of a fine fore-loin of pork, cut it into +neat dice, mix a tablespoonful of water with it, and +season with a large teaspoonful of salt and a small +one of black pepper. To make the crust, boil a +quarter of a pound of lard or clarified dripping in a +gill and a half of water, and pour it hot on to one +pound of flour, to which a good pinch of salt has +been added. Mix into a stiff paste, pinch off enough +of it to make the lid, and keep it hot. Flour your +board and work the paste into a ball, then with the +knuckles of your right hand press a hole in the +centre, and mould the paste into a round or oval +shape, taking care to keep it a proper thickness. +Having put in the meat, join the lid to the pie, which +raise lightly with both hands so as to keep it a good +high shape, cut round the edge with a sharp knife, and +make the trimmings into leaves to ornament the lid; +and having placed these on, with a rose in the centre, +put the pie on a floured baking-sheet and brush it +over with yolk of egg.</p> + +<p>The crust of the pie should be cool and set before +putting it into the oven, which should be a moderate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> +heat. When the gravy boils out the pie is done. An +hour and a half will bake a pie of this size. Make a +little gravy with the bones and trimmings of the pork, +and to half-a-pint of it add a quarter of an ounce of +Nelson's Gelatine, and nicely season with pepper and +salt. When the pie is cold remove the rose from the +top, make a little hole, insert a small funnel, and pour in +as much gravy as the pie will hold. Replace the rose +on the top, and put the pie on a dish with a cut paper.</p> + +<p>If preferred, the pie can be made in a tin mould; +but the crust is nicer raised by the hand. A great +point to observe is to begin moulding the crust whilst +it is hot, and to get it finished as quickly as possible.</p> + +<h3>VEAL AND HAM PIE.</h3> + +<p>Prepare the crust as for a pork pie. Cut a pound +of veal cutlet and a quarter of a pound of ham into +dice, season with a teaspoonful of salt and another of +black pepper, put the meat into the crust, and finish +as for pork pie. Add a quarter of an ounce of +Nelson's Gelatine—previously soaked in cold water, +and then dissolved—to a teacupful of gravy made +from the veal trimmings.</p> + +<h3>PORK SAUSAGES.</h3> + +<p>When a pig is cut up in the country, sausages are +usually made of the trimmings; but when the meat +has to be bought, the chump-end of a fore-loin will +be found to answer best. The fine well-fed meat of +a full-grown pig, known in London as "hog-meat," is +every way preferable to that called "dairy-fed pork."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> +The fat should be nearly in equal proportion to the +lean, but of course this matter must be arranged to +suit the taste of those who will eat the sausages. If +young pork is used, remove the skin as thinly as you +can—it is useful for various purposes—and then with +a sharp knife cut all the flesh from the bones, take +away all sinew and gristle, and cut the fat and lean +into strips. Some mincing-machines require the meat +longer than others; for Kent's Combination, cut it into +pieces about an inch long and half-an-inch thick. To +each pound of meat put half a gill of gravy made +from the bones, or water will do; then mix equally +with it two ounces of bread-crumbs, a large teaspoonful +of salt, a small one of black pepper, dried sage, and +a pinch of allspice. This seasoning should be well +mixed with the bread, as the meat will then be +flavoured properly throughout the mass. Arrange the +skin on the filler, tie it at the end, put the meat, a +little at a time, into the hopper, turn the handle of the +machine briskly, and take care the skin is only lightly +filled. When the sausages are made, tie the skin at +the other end, pinch them into shape, and then loop +them by passing one through another, giving a twist +to each as you do them. Sausage-skins, especially if +preserved, should be well soaked before using, or they +may make the sausages too salt. It is a good plan to +put the skin on the water-tap and allow the water to +run through it, as thus it will be well washed on the +inside. Fifteen to twenty minutes should be allowed +for frying sausages, and when done they should be +nicely browned. A little butter or lard is best for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span> +frying, and some pieces of light bread may be fried in +it when the sausages are done, and placed round the +dish by way of garnish. Cooks cannot do better +than remember Dr. Kitchener's directions for frying +sausages. After saying, "They are best when quite +fresh made," he adds: "put a bit of butter or dripping +into a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is melted, before +it gets hot, put in the sausages, and shake the pan for +a minute, and keep turning them. Be careful not to +break or prick them in so doing. Fry them over a +very slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides. +The secret of frying sausages is to let them get hot +very gradually; they then will not break if they are +not stale. The common practice to prevent them +bursting is to prick them with a fork, but this lets the +gravy out."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">PUDDINGS.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<h3>CUSTARD PUDDING.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">We</span> give this pudding first because it affords an +opportunity for giving hints on making milk puddings +generally, and because, properly made, there is no +more delicious pudding than this. It is besides most +useful and nutritious, not only for the dinner of +healthy people, but for children and invalids. But +few cooks, however, make it properly; as a rule too +many eggs are used, to which the milk is added cold, +and the pudding is baked in a quick oven. The consequence +is that the pudding curdles and comes to +table swimming in whey; or, even if this does not +happen, the custard is full of holes and is tough.</p> + +<p>In the first place, milk for all puddings with eggs +should be poured on to the eggs boiling hot; in the +next, the baking must be very slowly done, if possible, +as directed in the recipe; the dish containing the +pudding to be placed in another half-full of water. +This, of course, prevents the baking proceeding too +rapidly, and also prevents the pudding acquiring a +sort of burned greasy flavour, which is injurious for +invalids. Lastly, too many eggs should not be used; +the quantity given, two to the pint of milk, is in +all cases quite sufficient, and will make a fine rich +custard.</p> + +<p>We never knew a pudding curdle, even with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> +London milk a day old, if all these directions were +observed; but it is almost needless to say, that the +pudding made with new rich milk is much finer than +one of inferior milk.</p> + +<p>Boil a pint and a half of milk with two ounces of +lump sugar, or rather more if a sweet pudding is +liked, and pour it boiling hot on three eggs lightly +beaten—that is, just sufficiently so to mix whites +and yolks. Flavour the custard with nutmeg, grated +lemon-peel, or anything which may be preferred and +pour it into a tart-dish. Place this dish in another +three-parts full of boiling water, and bake slowly for +forty minutes, or until the custard is firm. There is +no need to butter the dish if the pudding is baked as +directed.</p> + +<h3>SOUFFLÉ PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>This is a delicious pudding, and to insure its +success great care and exactness are required. In +the first place, to avoid failure it is necessary that the +butter, flour, sugar, and milk, should be stirred long +enough over a moderate fire to make a stiff paste, +because if this is thin the eggs will separate, and the +pudding when done resemble a batter with froth on +the top.</p> + +<p>Before beginning to make the pudding, prepare a +pint tin by buttering it inside and fastening round it +with string on the outside a buttered band of writing-paper, +which will stand two inches above the tin and +prevent the pudding running over as it rises. Melt +an ounce of butter in a stewpan, add one ounce of +sifted sugar, stir in an ounce and a half of Vienna<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> +flour, mix well together, add a gill of milk, and stir +over the fire with a wooden spoon until it boils and +is thick. Take the stewpan off the fire, beat up the +yolks of three eggs with half a teaspoonful of extract +of vanilla, and stir a little at a time into the paste, to +insure both being thoroughly mixed together. Put +a small pinch of salt to the whites of four eggs, whip +them as stiff as possible, and stir lightly into the +pudding, which pour immediately into the prepared +mould. Have ready a saucepan with enough boiling +water to reach a little way up the tin, which is best +placed on a trivet, so that the water cannot touch the +paper band. Let the pudding steam very gently for +twenty minutes, or until it is firm in the middle, and +will turn out.</p> + +<p>For sauce, boil two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam +in a gill of water, with two ounces of lump sugar, stir +in a wine-glassful of sherry, add a few drops of Nelson's +Vanilla Flavouring, pour over the pudding and serve.</p> + +<h3>OMELET SOUFFLÉ.</h3> + +<p>Put the yolks of two eggs into a basin with an ounce +of sifted sugar and a few drops of Nelson's Vanilla +Essence; beat the yolks and sugar together for six +minutes, or until the mixture becomes thick. Then +whip the whites very stiff, so that they will turn out +of the basin like a jelly. Mix the yolks and whites +lightly together, have ready an ounce of butter dissolved +in the omelet-pan, pour in the eggs, hold this +pan over a slow fire for two minutes, then put the +frying-pan into a quick oven and bake until the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> +omelet has risen; four minutes ought to be sufficient +to finish the omelet in the oven; when done, slide it +on to a warm dish, double it, sift sugar over, and +serve instantly.</p> + +<h3>SPONGE SOUFFLÉ.</h3> + +<p>Cover the bottom of a tart-dish with sponge-cakes, +pour over a little brandy and sherry; put in a moderate +oven until hot, then pour on the cakes an egg whip +made of two packets of Nelson's Albumen, beaten +to a strong froth with a little sugar. Bake for a +quarter of an hour in a slow oven.</p> + +<h3>CABINET PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Butter very thickly a pint pudding-basin, and cover +it neatly with stoned muscatel raisins, the outer side +of them being kept to the basin. Lightly fill up the +basin with alternate layers of sponge-cake and ratafias, +and when ready to steam the pudding, pour by +degrees over the cake a custard made of half-a-pint +of boiling milk, an egg, three lumps of sugar, a tablespoonful +of brandy, and a little lemon flavouring. +Cover the basin with a paper cap and steam or boil +gently for three-quarters of an hour. Great care +should be taken not to boil puddings of this class fast, +as it renders them tough and flavourless.</p> + +<h3>BRANDY SAUCE.</h3> + +<p>Mix a tablespoonful of fine flour with a gill of cold +water, put it into a gill of boiling water, and, having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span> +stirred over the fire until it is thick, add the yolk of +an egg. Continue stirring for five minutes, and +sweeten with two ounces of castor sugar. Mix a wine-glass +of brandy with two tablespoonfuls of sherry, stir +it into the sauce, and pour it round the pudding. If +liked, a grate of nutmeg may be added to the sauce, +and, if required to be rich, an ounce of butter may be +stirred in before the brandy.</p> + +<h3>WARWICKSHIRE PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Butter a pint-and-a-half tart-dish, lay in it a layer of +light bread, cut thin, on this sprinkle a portion of two +ounces of shred suet, and of one ounce of lemon +candied-peel, chopped very fine. Fill the dish lightly +with layers of bread, sprinkling over each a little of +the suet and peel.</p> + +<p>Boil a pint of milk with two ounces of sugar, pour +it on two eggs, beaten for a minute, and add it to the +pudding just before putting it into the oven; a little +of Nelson's Essence of Lemon or Almonds may be +added to the custard. Bake the pudding in a very +slow oven for an hour.</p> + +<h3>VANILLA RUSK PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Dissolve, but do not oil, an ounce of butter, mix in +a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, stir over the fire +for a few minutes, add an egg well beaten, and half a +teaspoonful of Nelson's Vanilla Extract, or as much +as will give a good flavour to the paste, which continue +stirring until it gets thick.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span></p> + +<p>Spread four slices of rusk with the vanilla paste, +put them in a buttered tart-dish. Boil half-a-pint of +new milk, pour it on to an egg well beaten, then add +it to the rusk, and put the pudding to bake in a +slow oven for an hour. Turn out when done, and +sift sugar over the pudding. If a superior pudding is +desired, boil a tablespoonful of apricot jam in a teacupful +of plain sugar syrup, add a little vanilla +flavouring, and pour over the pudding at the moment +of serving.</p> + +<h3>JUBILEE PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Pour a pint of boiling milk on two ounces of +Rizine, stir over the fire for ten minutes, add half an +ounce of butter, the yolks of two eggs, an ounce of +castor sugar, and six drops of Nelson's Essence of +Almonds. Put the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, +and bake in a moderate oven for a quarter of an +hour. When taken from the oven, spread over it a +thin layer of apricot jam, and on this the whites of +the eggs beaten to a strong froth, with half an ounce +of castor sugar. Return the pudding to a slow oven +for about four minutes, in order to set the meringue.</p> + +<h3>NATAL PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint +of cold water until it is soft, when add the grated +peel of half a lemon, the juice of two lemons, the +beaten yolks of three eggs, and six ounces of lump +sugar dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling water. Stir +the mixture over the fire until it thickens, taking care +that it does not boil. Have ready the whites of the eggs<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> +well whisked, stir all together, pour into a fancy mould, +which put into a cold place until the pudding is set.</p> + +<h3>QUEEN'S PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Half-a-pound of bread-crumbs, a pint of new milk, +two ounces of butter, the yolks of four eggs, and a little +Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Boil the bread-crumbs and +milk together, then add the sugar, butter, and eggs; +when these are well mixed, bake in a tart-dish until a +light brown. Then put a layer of strawberry jam, and +on the top of this the whites of the eggs beaten to +a stiff froth, with a little sifted sugar. Smooth over +the meringue with a knife dipped in boiling water, +and bake for ten minutes in a slow oven.</p> + +<h3>CHOCOLATE PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Boil half-a-pound of light stale bread in a pint of +new milk. Stir continually until it becomes a thick +paste; then add an ounce of butter, a quarter of a +pound of sifted sugar, and two large teaspoonfuls of +Schweitzer's Cocoatina, with a little Nelson's Essence +of Vanilla. Take the pudding off the fire, and mix in, +first, the yolks of three eggs, then the whites beaten +to a strong froth. Put into a buttered tart-dish and +bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour.</p> + +<h3>COCOA-NUT PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Choose a large nut, with the milk in it, grate it +finely, mix it with an equal weight of finely-sifted sugar, +half its weight of butter, the yolks of four eggs, and the +milk of the nut. Let the butter be beaten to a cream,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> +and when all the other ingredients are mixed with it, +add the whites of the eggs, whisked to a strong froth. +Line a tart-dish with puff-paste, put in the pudding +mixture and bake slowly for an hour. Butter a sheet +of paper and cover the top of the pudding, as it should +not get brown.</p> + +<h3>RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Stew raspberries and currants with sugar and water, +taking care to have plenty of juice. Cut the crumb +of a stale tin-loaf in slices about half-an-inch thick and +put in a pie-dish, leaving room for the bread to swell, +with alternate layers of fruit, until the dish is full. Then +put in as much of the juice as you can without causing +the bread to rise. When it is soaked up put in the +rest of the juice, cover with a plate, and let the pudding +stand until the next day. When required for use turn +out and pour over it a good custard or cream. The +excellence of this pudding depends on there being +plenty of syrup to soak the bread thoroughly. This is +useful when pastry is objected to.</p> + +<h3>THE CAPITAL PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Shred a quarter of a pound of suet, mix it with half +a pound of flour, one small teaspoonful each of baking-powder +and carbonate of soda, then add four tablespoonfuls +of strawberry or raspberry jam, and stir well +with a gill of milk. Boil for four hours in a high +mould, and serve with wine or fruit sauce. The latter +is made by stirring jam into thin butter sauce.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span></p> + +<h3>ITALIAN FRITTERS.</h3> + +<p>Cut slices of very light bread half-an-inch thick, +with a round paste-cutter, divide them into neat +shapes all alike in size. Throw them into boiling fat +and fry quickly of a rich golden brown, dry them on +paper, place on a dish, and pour over orange or lemon +syrup, or any kind of preserve made hot. Honey or +golden syrup may be used for those who like them.</p> + +<h3>DUCHESS OF FIFE'S PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Boil two ounces of rice in a pint of milk until +quite tender. When done, mix with it a quarter of +an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked in a tablespoonful +of water. Line the inside of a plain mould +with the rice, and when it is set fill it up with half-a-pint +of cream, whipped very stiff and mixed with +some nice preserve, stewed fruit, or marmalade. After +standing some hours turn out the pudding, and pour +over it a delicate syrup made of the same fruit as +that put inside the rice.</p> + +<h3>WELSH CHEESECAKE.</h3> + +<p>Dry a quarter of a pound of fine flour, mix with +two ounces of sifted loaf-sugar, and add it by degrees +to two ounces of butter beaten to a cream; then work +in three well-beaten eggs, flavour with Nelson's Essence +of Lemon. Line patty-pans with short crust, put in +the above mixture, and bake in a quick oven.</p> + +<h3>FRIAR'S OMELET.</h3> + +<p>Make six moderate-sized apples into sauce, sweeten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> +with powdered loaf-sugar, stir in two ounces of butter, +and when cold, mix with two well-beaten eggs. Butter +a tart-dish, and strew the bottom and sides thickly +with bread-crumbs, then put in the apple-sauce, and +cover with bread-crumbs to the depth of a quarter of +an inch, put a little dissolved butter on the top, and +bake for an hour in a good oven. When done, turn +it out, and sift sugar over it.</p> + +<h3>COMPOTE OF APPLES WITH FRIED BREAD.</h3> + +<p>Bake a dozen good cooking apples, scrape out the +pulp, boil this with half-a-pound of sugar to a pound +of pulp, until it becomes stiff. It must be stirred all +the time it is boiling. When done, place the compote +in the centre of the dish, piling it up high. Have +ready some triangular pieces of fried bread, arrange +some like a crown on the top, the remainder at the +bottom of the compote. Have ready warmed half a +pot of apricot marmalade mixed with a little plain +sugar-syrup, and pour it over the compote, taking +care that each piece of bread is well covered.</p> + +<h3>APPLE FOOL.</h3> + +<p>Bake good sharp apples; when done, remove the +pulp and rub it through a sieve, sweeten and flavour +with Nelson's Essence of Lemon; when cold add to +it a custard made of eggs and milk, or milk or cream +sweetened will be very good. Keep the fool quite +thick. Serve with rusks or sponge finger biscuits.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span></p> + +<h3>APPLE MERINGUE.</h3> + +<p>Beat up two packets of Nelson's Albumen with six +small teaspoonfuls of water, and stir them into half-a-pound +of stiff apple-sauce flavoured with Nelson's +Essence of Lemon. Put the meringue on a bright +tin or silver dish, pile it up high in a rocky shape, +and bake in a quick oven for ten minutes.</p> + +<h3>STEWED PEARS WITH RICE.</h3> + +<p>Put four large pears cut in halves into a stewpan +with a pint of claret, Burgundy, or water, and eight +ounces of sugar, simmer them until perfectly tender. +Take out the pears and let the syrup boil down to +half; flavour it with vanilla. Have ready a teacupful +of rice, nicely boiled in milk and sweetened, spread it +on a dish, lay the pears on it, pour the syrup over, +and serve. This is best eaten cold.</p> + +<h3>COMPOTE OF PRUNES.</h3> + +<p>Wash the fruit in warm water, put it on to boil in +cold water in which lump sugar has been dissolved. +To a pound of prunes put half-a-pound of sugar, a +pint of water, with the thin rind and juice of a +lemon. Let them simmer for an hour, or until so +tender that they will mash when pressed. Strain the +fruit and set it aside. Boil the syrup until it becomes +very thick and is on the point of returning to sugar, +then pour it over the prunes, turn them about so that +they become thoroughly coated, taking care not to +break them, let them lie for twelve hours, then pile up +on a glass dish for dessert.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">ON JELLY-MAKING.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">It</span> is within the memory of many persons that jelly +was only to be made from calves' feet by a slow, +difficult, and expensive process. There is, indeed, a +story told of the wife of a lawyer, early in this century, +having appropriated some valuable parchment deeds +to make jelly, when she could not procure calves' feet. +But the secret that it could be so made was carefully +guarded by the possessors of it, and it was not until +the introduction of Nelson's Gelatine that people were +brought to believe that jelly could be made other +than in the old-fashioned way. Even now there is +a lingering superstition that there is more nourishment +in jelly made of calves' feet than that made from +Gelatine. The fact is, however, that Gelatine is +equally nutritious from whatever source it is procured. +Foreign Gelatine, as is well known, does sometimes +contain substances which, if not absolutely deleterious, +are certainly undesirable; but Messrs. Nelson warrant +their Gelatine of equal purity with that derived from +calves' feet.</p> + +<p>It is unnecessary to enlarge on the economy both +in time and money of using Gelatine, or the more +certain result obtained from it. If the recipe given +for making "a quart of jelly" is closely followed, a +most excellent and brilliant jelly will be produced. +Many cooks get worried about their jelly-bags, and are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> +much divided in opinion as to the best kind to use. +It is not a point of great consequence whether a felt +or close flannel is selected. We incline to the latter, +which must be of good quality, and if the material is +not thick it should be used double.</p> + +<p>When put away otherwise than perfectly clean and +dry, or when stored in a damp place, flannel bags are +sure to acquire a strong mouldy flavour, which is +communicated to all jelly afterwards strained through +them.</p> + +<p>The great matter, therefore, to observe in respect of +the jelly-bag, is that it be put away in a proper condition, +that is, perfectly free from all stiffness and +from any smell whatever.</p> + +<p>As soon as the bag is done with, turn it inside out, +throw it into a pan of boiling water, stir it about with +a spoon until it is cleansed. Then, have another pan +of boiling water, and again treat the bag in the same +manner. Add as much cold water as will enable you +to wring the bag out dry, or it can be wrung out in a +cloth. This done, finally rinse in hot water, wring, +and, if possible, dry the bag in the open air. See +that it is perfectly free from smell; if not, wash in +very hot water again. Wrap the bag in several folds +of clean paper and keep it in a dry place.</p> + +<p>A thing to be observed is that, if the jelly is allowed +to come very slowly to boiling-point it will be more +effectually cleared, as the impurities of the sugar and +the thicker portions of the lemons thus rise more +surely with the egg than if this part of the process is +too rapidly carried out. In straining, if the jelly is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span> +well made, it is best to pour all into the bag at one +time, doing it slowly, so as not to break up the scum +more than necessary. Should the jelly not be perfectly +bright on a first straining, it should be kept hot, and +slowly poured again through the bag. The contents +of the bag should not be disturbed, nor should the +slightest pressure be applied, as this is certain to +cloud the jelly. If brandy is used, it should be put in +after the jelly is strained, as by boiling both the spirit +and flavour of it are lost.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">In order that jelly may turn out well, do +not put it into the mould until it is on the +point of setting.</span> If attention is paid to this there +will never be any difficulty in getting jelly to turn out +of a mould, and putting it into hot water or using hot +cloths will be unnecessary. A mould should be used +as cold as possible, because then when the jelly comes +into contact with it, it is at once set and cannot stick. +Any kind of mould may be used. If the direction to +put the jelly in <em>when just setting</em> is followed, it will +turn out as well from an earthenware as from a copper +mould.</p> + +<p>It should be unnecessary to say that the utmost +cleanliness is imperative to insure the perfection of +jelly. So delicate a substance not only contracts any +disagreeable flavour, but is rendered cloudy by the +least touch of any greasy spoon, or by a stewpan +which has not been properly cleansed.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span></p> + +<h3>HOW TO USE GELATINE.</h3> + +<p>There are a few points connected with the use of +Gelatine for culinary purposes which cannot be too +strongly impressed upon housekeepers and cooks.</p> + +<p>1. Gelatine should always be soaked in cold water +till it is thoroughly saturated—say, till it is so soft +that it will tear with the fingers—whether this is +specified in the recipe or not.</p> + +<p>2. Nelson's Gelatine being cut very fine will soak in +about an hour, but whenever possible it is desirable +to give it a longer time. When convenient, it is a +good plan to put Gelatine to soak over-night. It will +then dissolve in liquid below boiling-point.</p> + +<p>When jelly has to be cleared with white of egg do +not boil it longer than necessary. Two minutes is +quite sufficient to set the egg and clarify the jelly.</p> + +<p>Use as little Gelatine as possible; that is to say, +never use more than will suffice to make a jelly strong +enough to retain its form when turned out of the +mould. The prejudice against Gelatine which existed +in former years was doubtless caused by persons unacquainted +with its qualities using too large a quantity, +and producing a jelly hard, tough, and unpalatable, +which compared very unfavourably with the delicate +jellies they had been accustomed to make from +calves' feet, the delicacy of which arose from the +simple fact that the Gelatine derived from calves' feet +is so weak that it is almost impossible to make the +jellies too strong.</p> + +<p>Persons accustomed to use Gelatine will know that +its "setting" power is very much affected by the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> +temperature. In the recipes contained in the following +pages the quantity of Gelatine named is that which +experience has shown to be best suited to the average +temperature of this country. In hot weather and +foreign climates a little more Gelatine should be +added.</p> + +<h3>TO MAKE A QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Soak one ounce of Nelson's Opaque Gelatine in half-a-pint +of cold water for two or three hours, and then +add the same quantity of boiling water; stir until +dissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons, +with wine and sugar sufficient to make the whole +quantity one quart; have ready the white and shell of +an egg, well beaten together, or a packet of Nelson's +Albumen, and stir these briskly into the jelly; boil for +two minutes without stirring it; remove from the fire, +allow it to stand two minutes, and strain through a +close flannel bag. Let it be on the point of setting +before putting into the mould.</p> + +<h3>AN ECONOMICAL JELLY.</h3> + +<p>For general family use it is not necessary to clear +jelly through the bag, and a quart of excellent jelly +can be made as follows: Soak one ounce of Nelson's +Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water for two or three +hours, then add a 3d. packet of Nelson's Citric +Acid and three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar; +pour on half-a-pint of boiling water and half-a-pint +of sherry, orange or other wine (cold), and add +one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> +Lemon; stir for a few minutes before pouring into the +moulds.</p> + +<p>The effect of citric acid in the above quantity is to +make the jelly clearer. When this is not of consequence, +a third of a packet can be used, and six +ounces of sugar. Wine can be omitted if desired, +and water substituted for it. Ginger-beer makes an +excellent jelly for those who do not wish for wine, +and hedozone is also very good.</p> + +<h3>JELLY WITH FRUIT.</h3> + +<p>This is an elegant sweetmeat, and with clear jelly +and care in moulding, can be made by inexperienced +persons, particularly if Nelson's Bottled Jelly is used. +If the jelly is home-made the recipe for making a +"quart of jelly" will be followed. When the jelly +is on the point of setting, put sufficient into a cold +mould to cover the bottom of it. Then place in the +centre, according to taste, any fine fruit you choose, +a few grapes, cherries, strawberries, currants, anything +you like, provided it is not too heavy to break the +jelly. Put in another layer of jelly, and when it is +set enough, a little more fruit, then fill up your mould +with jelly, and let it stand for some hours.</p> + +<h3>RIBBON JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Soak one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine in +half-a-pint of cold water for twenty minutes, then add +the same quantity of boiling water. Stir until dissolved, +and add the juice and peel of two lemons, +with wine and sugar sufficient to make the whole<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span> +quantity one quart. Have ready the white and shell +of an egg, well beaten together, and stir these briskly +into the jelly; then boil for two minutes without +stirring, and remove it from the fire; allow it to +stand two minutes, then strain it through a close +flannel bag. Divide the jelly in two equal parts, +leaving one pint of a yellow colour, and adding a few +drops of prepared cochineal to colour the remainder +a bright red. Put a small quantity of red jelly into a +mould previously soaked in cold water. Let this set, +then pour in a small quantity of the pale jelly, and +repeat this until the mould is full, taking care that +each layer is perfectly firm before pouring in the other. +Put it in a cool place, and the next day turn it out. +Or, the mould may be partly filled with the yellow +jelly, and when this is thoroughly set, fill up with the +red.</p> + +<p>Ribbon jelly and jelly of two colours can be made +in any pretty fancy mould (there are many to be had +for the purpose); of course one colour must always +be perfectly firm before the other is put in, or the +effect would be spoilt by the two colours running into +each other. Ribbon jelly can be made with two kinds +of Nelson's Bottled Jelly. The Sherry will be used +for the pale, and Cherry or Port Wine jelly for the red +colour. Thus an elegant jelly will be made in a few +minutes.</p> + +<h3>CLARET JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Take one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine, soak +for twenty minutes in half-a-pint of cold water, then<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> +dissolve. Add three-quarters of a pound of sugar, a +pot of red-currant jelly, and a bottle of good ordinary +claret, and stir over the fire till the sugar is dissolved. +Beat the whites and shells of three eggs, stir them +briskly into the preparation, boil for two minutes +longer, take it off the fire, and when it has stood for +two minutes pass it through the bag. This should be +a beautiful red jelly, and perfectly clear.</p> + +<h3>COFFEE JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint +of water for an hour or more, dissolve it in a pint-and-a-half +of boiling water with half-a-pound of sugar. +Clear it with white of egg, and run through a jelly-bag +as directed for making "a quart of brilliant jelly." +This done, stir in a tablespoonful, or rather more if +liked, of Allen and Hanbury's Café Vierge, which is a +very fine essence of coffee. Or, instead of dissolving +the Gelatine in water, use strong coffee.</p> + +<h3>COCOA JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Make half-a-pint of cocoa from the nibs, taking +care to have it clear. Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's +Gelatine in half-a-pint of water; add a quarter of a +pound of sugar, dissolve, and clear the jelly with the +whites and shells of two eggs in the usual way. +Flavour with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla after the +jelly has been through the bag.</p> + +<p>When a clear jelly is not required, the cocoa can +be made of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, double the quantity +required for a beverage being used. Mix this with half-an-ounce +of Nelson's Gelatine and flavour with vanilla.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> + +<h3>ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Cut a small round from the stalk end of each +orange, and scoop out the inside. Throw the skins +into cold water for an hour to harden them, drain, +and when quite dry inside, half fill with pink jelly. +Put in a cool place, and when the jelly is firm, fill up +with pale jelly or blanc-mange; set aside again, and +cut into quarters before serving. Arrange with a +sprig of myrtle between each quarter. Use lemons +instead of oranges if preferred.</p> + +<h3>ORANGE FRUIT JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Boil half-a-pound of lump sugar in a gill of water +until melted. Stir in half-an-ounce of Nelson's +Gelatine previously soaked in a gill of cold water; +when it is dissolved beat a little, and let it stand until +cold. Rub four lumps of sugar on the peel of two +fine oranges, so as to get the full and delicate flavour; +add this sugar with the juice of a lemon and sufficient +orange juice strained to make half-a-pint to the above. +Beat well together, and when on the point of setting, +add the fruit of two oranges prepared as follows: +Peel the oranges, cut away all the white you can +without drawing the juice, divide the orange in +quarters, take out seeds and all pith, and cut the +quarters into three or four pieces. Mix these with +the jelly, which at once put into a mould, allowing it +to stand a few hours before turning out.</p> + +<h3>APPLE JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Take one pound of apples, peel them with a sharp +knife, cut them in two, take out the core, and cut the +fruit into small pieces. Place the apples in a stewpan,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> +with three ounces of lump sugar, half-a-pint of water, +a small teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, and +six drops of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Put the +stewpan on the fire, and boil the apples till they +are quite tender, stirring occasionally to prevent +the fruit sticking to the bottom of the pan; +or the apples can be steamed in a potato-steamer, +afterwards adding lemon-juice and sugar. Soak an +ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water, +dissolve it, and when the apples are cooked to a pulp, +place a hair sieve over a basin and rub the apples +through with a wooden spoon; stir the melted Gelatine +into the apples, taking care that it is quite +smoothly dissolved. If liked, colour part of the +apples by stirring in half a spoonful of cochineal +colouring.</p> + +<p>Rinse a pint-and-a-half mould in boiling water, and +then in cold water; ornament the bottom of the +mould with pistachio nuts cut in small pieces, or +preserved cherries, according to taste. When on the +point of setting put the apples into the mould, and +if any part of the apples are coloured, fill the mould +alternately with layers of coloured and plain apples. +Stand the mould aside in a cool place to set the +apples, then turn out the jelly carefully on a dish, +and send to table with cream whipped to a stiff froth.</p> + +<h3>LEMON SPONGE.</h3> + +<p>To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add one pint +of cold water, let it stand for twenty minutes, +then dissolve it over the fire, add the rind of two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> +lemons thinly pared, three-quarters of a pound of +lump sugar, and the juice of three lemons; boil all +together two minutes, strain it and let it remain till +nearly cold, then add the whites of two eggs well +beaten, and whisk ten minutes, when it will become +the consistence of sponge. Put it lightly into a glass +dish immediately, leaving it in appearance as rocky as +possible.</p> + +<p>This favourite sweetmeat is also most easily and +successfully made with Nelson's Lemon Sponge. +Dissolve the contents of a tin in half-a-pint of boiling +water, let it stand until it is on the point of setting, +then whip it until very white and thick.</p> + +<p>If any difficulty is experienced in getting the Lemon +Sponge out of the tin, set it in a saucepan of boiling +water for fifteen minutes. In cold weather also, should +the sponge be slow in dissolving, put it in a stewpan +with the boiling water and stir until dissolved; but +do not boil it. It is waste of time to begin whipping +until the sponge is on the point of setting. A gill of +sherry may be added if liked, when the whipping of +the sponge is nearly completed. Put the sponge into +a mould rinsed with cold water. It will be ready for +use in two or three hours. A very pretty effect is +produced by ornamenting this snow-white sponge +with preserved barberries, or cherries, and a little +angelica cut into pieces to represent leaves.</p> + +<h3>STRENGTHENING JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Put one ounce each of sago, ground rice, pearl +barley, and Nelson's Gelatine—previously soaked in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> +cold water—into a saucepan, with two quarts of water; +boil gently till the liquid is reduced one-half. Strain +and set aside till wanted. A few spoonfuls of this +jelly may be dissolved in broth, tea, or milk. It is +nourishing and easily digested.</p> + +<h3>DUTCH FLUMMERY.</h3> + +<p>To an ounce and a half of Nelson's Patent Gelatine +add a pint of cold water; let it steep, then pour it +into a saucepan, with the rinds of three lemons or +oranges; stir till the Gelatine is dissolved; beat the +yolk of three eggs with a pint of good raisin or white +wine, add the juice of the fruit, and three-quarters of +a pound of lump sugar. Mix the whole well together, +boil one minute, strain through muslin, stir occasionally +till cold; then pour into moulds.</p> + +<h3>ASPIC JELLY.</h3> + +<p>Were it not for the trouble of making Aspic Jelly, it +would be more generally used than it is, for it gives +not only elegance but value to a number of cold +dishes. We have now the means of making this with +the greatest ease, rapidity, and cheapness. Soak an +ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a pint of cold water, +dissolve it in a pint of boiling water, add a large +teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of French vinegar, +and the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat +dissolved in a gill of boiling water. Wash the shell of +an egg before breaking it, beat up white and shell to +a strong froth, and stir into the aspic. Let it come<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> +slowly to the boil, and when it has boiled two minutes, +let it stand for another two minutes, then strain through +a flannel bag kept for the purpose. If a stiff aspic is +required, use rather less water.</p> + +<h3>HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG.</h3> + +<p>The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for +ironing blankets, is a good material for a jelly-bag. +Take care that the seam of the bag be stitched twice, +to secure the jelly against unequal filtration. The bag +may, of course, be made any size, but one of twelve +or fourteen inches deep, and seven or eight across the +mouth, will be sufficient for ordinary use. The most +convenient way of using the bag is to tie it upon a +hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth, and +to do this tape should be sewn round it at equal +distances.</p> + +<p>If there is no jelly-bag in a house, a good substitute +may be made thus: Take a clean cloth folded over +corner-ways, and sew it up one side, making it in the +shape of a jelly-bag. Place two chairs back to back, +then take the sewn-up cloth and hang it between the +two chairs by pinning it open to the top bar of each +chair. Place a basin underneath the bag. Here is +another substitute: Turn a kitchen stool upside down, +and tie a fine diaper broth napkin, previously rinsed +in hot water, to the four legs, place a basin underneath +and strain through the napkin.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">CREAMS.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> careful housekeeper of modern times has been +accustomed to class creams among the luxuries which +can only be given on special occasions, both because +they take so much time and trouble to make, and +because the materials are expensive. It is, nevertheless, +possible to have excellent creams made on +a simple plan and at a moderate cost. Cream of a +superior kind is now everywhere to be had in jars, +condensed milk answers well, and by the use of +Nelson's Gelatine, and any flavouring or syrup, excellent +creams can be made. Our readers will find +that the method of the following recipes is simple, the +cost moderate, and the result satisfactory. A hint +which, if acted on, will save time and trouble, may be +given to inexperienced persons intending to make +creams similar to Lemon Cream, which is light and +frothy. Do not add the lemon-juice until the mixture +of cream and lemon-juice is nearly cold, and do not +commence whipping until it is on the point of setting.</p> + +<p>Delicious and inexpensive creams can be made by +dissolving any of Nelson's Tablet Jellies in half the +quantity of water given in the directions for making +the jelly, and adding cream, either plain or whipped, +in the same way as directed for Orange Cream and +Cherry Cream.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span></p> + +<h3>LEMON CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint +of milk, dissolve it in a pint of boiling milk with a +quarter of a pound of lump sugar. When nearly cold, +add a gill of lemon-juice and whisk the cream until it +is light and sponge-like. Then stir in a gill of whipped +cream, put into a mould, and let it stand for two or +three hours.</p> + +<p>Or, dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Lemon Tablet +Jelly in half-a-pint of hot water. When cool, add to +it half-a-pint of cream, and whisk together until on +the point of setting, when mould it.</p> + +<h3>STRAWBERRY CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously +soaked in a gill of cold water, in a pint of hot milk. +When it is so nearly cold as to be on the point of +setting, add half-a-pint of strawberry syrup, and sufficient +rose colouring to make it a delicate pink; whisk +the cream until it is light and frothy, stir in lightly a +gill of whipped cream, then mould it.</p> + +<p>A good syrup can be made for this cream by +putting half-a-pound of strawberry and half-a-pound +of raspberry jam into half-a-pint of boiling water, and, +after having well stirred it, rubbing it through a fine +sieve. The syrup should not be too sweet, and the +addition of the juice of one or two lemons, or a little +citric acid, will be an advantage.</p> + +<p>Creams, which have cochineal colouring in them, +should not be put into tin moulds, as this metal turns<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> +them of a mauve shade. Breton's Rose Colouring is +recommended, because it is prepared from vegetables, +and is free from acid.</p> + +<h3>ORANGE CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Orange Tablet +Jelly in half-a-pint of hot water. When cool, mix with +it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip together until +the cream is on the point of setting.</p> + +<h3>IMITATION LEMON CREAM.</h3> + +<p>This will be found useful when cream is not to be +had. Put the thin peel of two lemons into half-a-pint +of boiling water, and when it has stood a little, dissolve +half-a-pound of loaf sugar in it. When nearly +cold, add three eggs, the yolks and whites well beaten +together, and the juice of the lemons. Strain this into +a stewpan, and stir until it is well thickened. After +taking from the fire, stir occasionally until cold, then +mix into it a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine +soaked and dissolved in half a gill of water, also +nearly cold.</p> + +<h3>APRICOT CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Drain the juice from a tin of preserved apricots, +add to it an equal quantity of water; make a syrup +by boiling with this half-a-pound of lump sugar until +it begins to thicken; then put in the apricots and +simmer them gently for ten minutes. Drain away +the syrup, and put both it and the fruit aside +separately for use as directed.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> +Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously +soaked, in a quart of boiling milk lightly sweetened, +and, when at the point of setting, put a teacupful +of it gently into a mould, then a layer of the apricots; +wait a minute or two before putting in another cup of +cream, then fill up the mould with alternate layers of +fruit and cream. Let the cream stand some hours +before turning out, and when it is on its dish pour +round it the syrup of apricots.</p> + +<h3>PINEAPPLE CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Drain the syrup from a tin of pineapple, boil it +down to half. Cut the best part of the pineapple +into neat little squares, pound the remainder, which +press through a strainer. Make a custard with half-a-pint +of milk and three yolks of eggs. Measure the +quantity of syrup and fruit juice, and dissolve +Nelson's Gelatine in the proportion of half-an-ounce +to a pint of it and custard together. Mix the gelatine +with the custard, then put in the pieces of pineapple, +and when it is cold the syrup, the juice, and two +tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. Have ready a +little of Nelson's Bottled Cherry or Port Wine +Jelly melted in a fancy mould, which turn round so +that it adheres to the sides, and when the first +quantity is set, put in a little more. As the cream is +on the point of setting, put it into the mould and +allow it to stand until firm. When turned out, +ornament the cream with the remainder of the +bottled jelly lightly chopped.</p> + +<h3>PALACE CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Make a custard of three eggs and a pint-and-a-half<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> +of milk sweetened, when it is ready dissolve in it an +ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint +of milk. When made, the quantity of custard +should be fully a pint-and-a-half, otherwise the cream +may be too stiff. When the cream is cool, put a little +into a mould, previously ornamented with glacé +cherries and little pieces of angelica to represent +leaves. The fruit is all the better if soaked in a little +brandy, as are the cakes, but milk can be used for +these last. Put a portion of two ounces of sponge-cakes +and one ounce of ratafias on the first layer of +cream, keeping it well in the centre, and then fill up +the mould with alternate layers of cakes and cream. +When turned out, a little liqueur or any kind of syrup +can be poured round the cream.</p> + +<h3>FRUIT CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Strain the juice from a bottle of raspberries and +currants on to three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, +boil up, then simmer for half-an-hour. Mix the fruit +and a large tablespoonful of raspberry jam with the +syrup, and rub it through a hair sieve. Dissolve +Nelson's Gelatine, in the proportion of half-an-ounce +to a pint of the fruit, in a little water, stir well +together. When cold put it into a border mould, +and as soon as it is firm turn out and fill the centre +with a cream, which make with half-an-ounce of +Nelson's Gelatine and three gills of milk, sweetened and +flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla. Whisk +until cool, when stir in a gill of whipped cream.</p> + +<h3>MANDARIN CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, pre<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span>viously +soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in half-a-pint +of sweetened boiling milk or cream. Dissolve a +pint bottle of Cherry Jelly as directed. When the +last is on the point of setting put a layer into a mould, +then a layer of the cream, each of these about an inch +deep, and fill up the mould in this way. This quantity +of material will make two handsome moulds, suitable +for a supper party.</p> + +<h3>BLANC-MANGE.</h3> + +<p>To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add half-a-pint of +new milk, let it soak for twenty minutes, boil two or three +laurel leaves in a pint of cream and half-a-pint of milk; +when boiling pour over the soaked gelatine, stir it till +it dissolves, add four or five ounces of lump sugar and +a little brandy if approved; strain it through muslin, stir +occasionally till it thickens, and then put it into moulds.</p> + +<h3>SOLID SYLLABUB.</h3> + +<p>Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine twenty minutes +in three-quarters of a pint of water, add the juice and +peel of two large lemons, a quarter of a pint of sherry, +five or six ounces of lump sugar; boil the above two +minutes, then pour upon it a pint of warm cream, stir +it quickly till it boils, then strain and stir till it thickens, +and pour it into moulds.</p> + +<h3>CHARLOTTE RUSSE.</h3> + +<p>Line a plain mould at the bottom and sides with +sponge finger-biscuits, fill it with strawberry cream, or +cream made as directed in the several recipes. If +the weather is warm it will be necessary to place the +Charlotte on ice for an hour or two, but in the winter +it will turn out without this. The biscuits for a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> +Charlotte Russe should be made quite straight, and +in arranging them in the mould they should lap +slightly one over the other.</p> + +<h3>BADEN-BADEN PUDDING.</h3> + +<p>Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously +soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half +of boiling milk; when it is nearly cold stir into it an +ounce of rice, well boiled or baked; flavour the +pudding to taste, and when on the point of setting +put it into a mould and let it stand for two or three +hours; serve plain or with stewed fruit.</p> + +<h3>CHERRY CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Cherry Tablet +Jelly in half-a-pint of hot water. When cool, mix with +it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip together +until the cream is on the point of setting.</p> + +<h3>VELVET CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Soak three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent +Gelatine in half-a-pint of sherry or raisin wine, then +dissolve it over the fire, stirring all the time; rub the +rinds of two lemons with six ounces of lump sugar, +add this, with the juice, to the hot solution, which is +then to be poured gently into a pint of cream; stir +the whole until quite cold, and then put into moulds.</p> + +<p>This can be made with a pint of boiling milk, in +which an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously +soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, has been dissolved, +and flavoured and sweetened.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span></p> + +<h3>ITALIAN CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Take three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent +Gelatine and steep it in half-a-pint of cold water; +boil the rind of a lemon, pared thinly, in a pint of +cream; add the juice of the lemon and three tablespoonfuls +of raspberry or strawberry syrup to the +soaked Gelatine; then pour the hot cream upon the +above ingredients, gently stirring the while. Sweeten +to taste, and add a drop or two of prepared cochineal. +Whisk till the mixture is thick, then pour into moulds.</p> + +<h3>CHEESE AND MACARONI CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Boil two ounces of macaroni, in water slightly salted, +until tender, when drain; cut it into tiny rings, and +put it into a stewpan with half-a-pint of milk or cream, +keeping it hot on the stove without boiling for half-an-hour. +Soak and dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's +Gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, and when this and the +macaroni are cold, stir together, add two ounces of +grated Parmesan cheese, with salt and cayenne pepper +to taste. Stir occasionally until the cream is on the +point of setting, when mould it. Should the cream be +absorbed by the macaroni, more must be added to +bring the whole quantity of liquid to one pint. If +preferred, rice well boiled or baked in milk, or vermicelli +paste, can be substituted for the macaroni.</p> + +<h3>COFFEE CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span> +soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half +of boiling milk with two ounces of sugar; stir in +sufficient strong Essence of Coffee to flavour it, and +when on the point of setting put it into a mould.</p> + +<h3>CHOCOLATE CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of +milk. Dissolve in it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, +previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, and stir +into it three teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, +dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling milk. Beat until on +the point of setting, and put the cream into a mould. +A few drops of Nelson's Essence of Vanilla can be +added with advantage.</p> + +<h3>CHARTREUSE OF ORANGES.</h3> + +<p>Peel four or five oranges, carefully take out the +divisions which put on a hair sieve in a cool place to +drain all night. Melt a little Nelson's Bottled +Orange Jelly, pour it into a saucer and dip in each +piece of orange, which arrange in a close circle round +the bottom of a small pudding-basin. Keep the +thick part of the orange downwards in the first row, +in the next put them the reverse way. Continue +thus until the basin is covered. Pour in a little of +the melted jelly, then of cream, made by mixing a +quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked and +dissolved in a gill of milk, into a gill of rich cream, +sweetened. Fill up the basin with alternate layers of +jelly and cream, allowing each of these to set before +the other is put in, making the jelly layers last. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> +Chartreuse will turn out easily if the jelly is gently +pressed from the basin all round. Garnish with two +colours of Nelson's Bottled Jelly lightly chopped.</p> + +<h3>FIG CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Preserved green figs are used for this cream—those +of Fernando Rodrigues are excellent. Place the figs +in a plain mould, and pour in gently, when on the +point of setting, a cream made with a pint of cream +and half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and lightly +sweetened. When the cream is turned out of the +mould, pour round it the syrup in which the figs were +preserved.</p> + +<h3>CHAMPAGNE CREAM.</h3> + +<p>Although this is properly a jelly, when well made +it eats so rich that it is usually called cream. It is +chiefly used in cases of illness, when it is desirable +to administer champagne in the form of jelly. Soak +half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold +water, dissolve it in a stewpan with one or two ounces +of sugar, according as the jelly is required sweet or +otherwise. When cool, add three gills of champagne +and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, whip until it +is beginning to set and is light and frothy; put into +a mould, and it will be ready for use in two hours, +if put in a cold place.</p> + +<h3>ORANGE MOUSSE.</h3> + +<p>Rub the zest of the peel of two oranges on to a +quarter of a pound of lump sugar, which boil with +half-a-gill of water to a thick syrup. Beat the juice of +three large oranges with two whole eggs, and having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> +whisked them slightly, add the syrup and Nelson's +Gelatine, dissolved, in the proportion of half-an-ounce +to a pint of liquid. Whisk the mixture over a saucepan +of hot water until it is warm, then place the +basin in another with cold water and continue whisking +until it is beginning to set, when put it into a fancy +mould.</p> + +<h3>STRAWBERRY TRIFLE.</h3> + +<p>Put a layer of strawberry jam at the bottom of a +trifle dish. Dissolve a half-pint tablet of Nelson's +Raspberry Jelly, and when it is set break it up and +strew it over the jam. Upon this lay sponge finger +biscuits and ratafia cakes, and pour over just enough +new milk to make them soft. Make a thick custard, +flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla, and spread +it over the cakes. Finally place on the top a handsome +quantity of cream, whisked with a little powdered sugar +and flavoured with vanilla.</p> + +<h3>WHIPPED CREAM.</h3> + +<p>To half-a-pint of cream put a tablespoonful of fine +sifted sugar, add sufficient of any of Nelson's Essences +to give it a delicate flavour. With a whisk or wire spoon, +raise a froth on the cream, remove this as soon as it +rises, put it on a fine hair, or, still better, lawn sieve; +repeat this process until the cream is used up. Should +the cream get thick in the whisking, add a very little +cold water. Put the sieve containing the whisked +cream in a basin and let it stand for some hours, +which will allow it to become more solid and fit for +such purposes as filling meringues.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">CAKES.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/short-line-thin.png" width="45" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> proper beating of the whites of the eggs is +an important matter in cake-making. There are a +number of machines for this purpose, which are in +turn eagerly adopted by inexperienced persons; but +for private use not one of them is comparable to +hand-beating. When once the knack of beating eggs +is acquired but little labour is needed to bring them +to the right consistency; indeed, the most successful +result is that which is the most rapidly attained. The +whites of eggs for beating should be fresh, and should +be carefully separated from the yolks by passing and +repassing them in the two halves of the shell. It is +best to beat the whites immediately they are broken, +but if this is not possible, they must be kept in a +cool place until wanted. If ice is at hand, it will be +found advantageous to keep the eggs in it. In well-furnished +kitchens a copper beating-bowl is provided; +it should not be tinned, as contact with this metal will +blacken the eggs; for this reason, the whisk, if of +iron wire, should not be new. An earthenware bowl +with circular bottom, and sufficiently large to admit +of a good stroke in beating, answers the purpose perfectly +well. A pinch of salt may be added to the +whites, and if an inexperienced beater finds them +assume a granulated appearance, a little lemon-juice +will remedy it.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> +Begin by beating gently, increasing the pace as the +egg thickens. As it is the air mixing with the albumen +of the eggs which causes them to froth, it is necessary +to beat them in a well-ventilated and cool place, so +that they may absorb as much air as possible.</p> + +<p>If these simple and important conditions are +observed, the whites of a dozen eggs may be beaten +to the strongest point, without fatigue to the operator, +in five minutes. When the whites are properly beaten +they should turn out of the bowl in one mass, and, after +standing a little while, will not show signs of returning +to their original state.</p> + +<p>In order more easily to make cakes and biscuits +into the composition of which almonds and cocoa-nut +enter largely, manufacturers supply both of these +pounded or desiccated. It is, however, preferable to +prepare the former fresh, and much time and trouble +may be saved in passing almonds through Kent's +Combination Mincer, 199, High Holborn, instead of +laboriously pounding them in a mortar. The result is, +besides, more satisfactory, the paste being smoother +than it can otherwise be made in domestic practice.</p> + +<p>Cakes of the description for which we now give +recipes cannot be made well unless the materials +are properly prepared and thoroughly beaten. It is +clear that if eggs are not beaten to such a consistency +that they will bear the weight of the other ingredients, +the result must be a heavy cake.</p> + +<p>Currants for cakes, after they have been washed +and picked, should be scalded, in order to swell them +and make them more tender.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> +Put the currants into a basin, pour boiling water +over them, cover the basin with a plate; after they +have stood a minute, drain away the water and throw +the fruit on a cloth to absorb the moisture. Put the +currants on a dish or plate in a very cool oven, +turning occasionally until thoroughly dry; dust a little +flour over them, and they will be ready for use.</p> + +<p>Castor sugar for cakes works more easily when it is +fine. For superior cakes raw sugar will not answer.</p> + +<h3>POUND CAKE.</h3> + +<p>One pound fresh butter, one pound Vienna flour, +six eggs (or seven, if small), one pound castor sugar, +quarter of a pound almonds cut small, half-a-pound +of currants or sultanas, three ounces of candied peel, +a few drops of essence of ratafia.</p> + +<p>The butter to be beaten to a cream. If it is hard +warm the pan. Add the sugar gradually; next the +eggs, which must previously be well beaten up; then +sift in the flour; and, last of all, put in fruit, almonds, +and flavouring.</p> + +<p>This cake takes about half-an-hour to mix, as all +the ingredients must be well beaten together with an +iron spoon from left to right. Bake in small tins, for +about forty minutes, in a moderate oven.</p> + +<h3>PLAIN POUND CAKE.</h3> + +<p>Half-a-pound of fresh butter, three eggs, one pound +of Vienna flour, one pound of castor sugar, a quarter +of a pound of almonds cut small, half-a-pound of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> +currants, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of +essence of ratafia.</p> + +<p>Beat the butter to a cream, from left to right, and +mix in the sugar gradually. Beat the eggs up, and +mix them with half-a-pint of new milk; stir into the +butter; then add the flour; and, last of all, the fruit.</p> + +<h3>SAVOY SPONGE CAKE.</h3> + +<p>Beat half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar with the +yolks of four eggs until you have a thick batter, +stir in lightly six ounces of fine dry sifted flour, then +the whites of the eggs beaten to a very strong froth. +Have ready a tin which has been lightly buttered, +and then covered with as much sifted sugar as will +adhere to it. Pour in the cake mixture, taking care +the tin is not more than half full, and bake for half-an-hour.</p> + +<h3>LEMON SAVOY SPONGE.</h3> + +<p>Half-a-pound of loaf sugar, rub some of the lumps +on the peel of two lemons, so as to get all the flavour +from them; dissolve the sugar in half a gill of boiling +water; add the juice of the lemons, or one of them if +a large size, and beat with the yolks of four eggs until +very white and thick; stir in a quarter of a pound of +fine flour, beat the whites of the eggs to a strong +froth, and mix as thoroughly but as lightly as possible; +butter and sift sugar over a mould, nearly fill +it with cake mixture, and bake at dark yellow paper +heat for thirty minutes.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span></p> + +<h3>MACAROONS.</h3> + +<p>Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with +three teaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mix +in half-a-pound of finely-sifted sugar and two ounces +each of pounded sweet and bitter almonds. Flour +a baking-sheet, and lay on it sheets of wafer-paper, +which can be bought at the confectioner's, and +drop on to them at equal distances, a small piece +of the paste. Bake in a moderate oven for ten +minutes, or until the macaroons are crisp and of a +golden colour. When done cut round the wafer-paper +with a knife, and put the cakes on a sieve +to dry.</p> + +<p>In following recipes for this class of cake some +judgment is required in the choice of the sugar, and +the result will vary greatly according as this is of the +right sort, or otherwise. A little more or less sugar +may be required, and only practice can make perfect +in this matter. As a general direction, it may be +given that the sugar must be of the finest quality, +and be very finely sifted, but not flour-like.</p> + +<h3>COCOA-NUT CAKES.</h3> + +<p>Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three +teaspoonfuls of cold water to a strong froth, mix with +it a quarter of a pound of finely sifted sugar, and two +ounces of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Put sheets +of wafer-paper on a baking-tin, drop small pieces of the +cake mixture on to it, keeping them in a rocky shape.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> +Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until +crisp.</p> + +<h3>CHOCOLATE CAKES.</h3> + +<p>Whisk a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three +teaspoonfuls of cold water to the strongest possible +froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar, two +teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, and six drops +of Nelson's Essence of Vanilla; sift paper thickly +with sugar, and drop small teaspoonfuls of the mixture +at equal distances on it, allowing space for the +cakes to spread a little. Bake for ten minutes in a +moderate oven.</p> + +<h3>COCOA-NUT ROCK.</h3> + +<p>Boil half-a-pound of loaf sugar in a gill of water until +it is beginning to return again to sugar, when cool add +a packet of Nelson's Albumen whisked to a strong +froth with three teaspoonfuls of water, and stir in a +quarter of a pound of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. +Spread the mixture, not more than an inch thick, in +a greased pudding-tin, and place in a cool oven to +dry. When done cut in neat squares, and keep in +tins in a cool, dry place.</p> + +<h3>SUGAR ICING.</h3> + +<p>No icing can be successfully done unless the sugar +is of the finest kind, perfectly white, and so finely +sifted as hardly to be distinguished by the eye from +potato-flour. Such sugar can now generally be pro<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span>cured +of the best grocers at a moderate price. The +process of sifting the sugar at home is somewhat +slow and troublesome, but by so doing a perfectly +pure article is secured. After being crushed the sugar +should be passed through sieves of varying fineness, +and, finally, through one made for the purpose, or +failing this, very fine muslin will answer. When the +sugar has been sifted at home, and it is certain there +is no admixture of any kind with it, a small quantity +of "fécule de pommes de terre" (potato-flour) may be +added; it reduces sweetness, and does not interfere +with the result of the process. If the sugar is not +sifted very fine a much longer time will be required to +make the icing, and in the end it will not look so +smooth as it ought to do. Confectioners use pyroligneous +acid instead of lemon-juice, and there is no +objection to it in small quantities. To make the icing, +beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved with +three teaspoonfuls of cold water, work in by degrees +one pound of fine icing sugar, adding a teaspoonful of +lemon-juice or a few drops of pyroligneous acid, which +will assist in keeping the icing white, or a slight tinge +of stone-blue will have the same effect. If potato-flour +is used, mix it thoroughly with the sugar before adding +it to the white of egg. A little more or less sugar +may be required, as the result is in great measure +determined by the method of the operator; and when +the paste is perfectly smooth, and will spread without +running, it is fit for use. For icing large cakes confectioners +use a stand which has a revolving board, so +that cakes can conveniently be turned about; failing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> +this, an ordinary board or inverted plate can be made +to answer. As soon as the icing is spread on the cake +it must be dried in an oven with the door open. It +is sometimes found sufficient to keep the cake in a +hot room for some hours. If too great heat is used +the icing will crack.</p> + +<h3>ALMOND PASTE.</h3> + +<p>Blanch one pound of sweet and two ounces of +bitter almonds, pound them in a mortar, adding a +little rose-water as you go on, to prevent oiling; and +when all the almonds are reduced to a perfectly +smooth paste, mix them with an equal weight of icing +sugar. Moisten the paste with a packet of Nelson's +Albumen dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of cold +water, and spread it evenly on the cake, allowing +it to become dry and firm before spreading the icing +over it. This paste can be used for making +several kinds of cakes and sweetmeats, and without +the Albumen can be kept in bottles for some +time. Almond paste can be made from bitter +almonds which have been infused in spirit to make +an extract for flavouring, and in this case no sweet +almonds will be required.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">BEVERAGES.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">Among</span> the most useful preparations which have ever +been introduced to the public for the immediate production +of delicious beverages, are <span class="smcap">Nelson's Bottled +Jellies</span>. These beverages are highly approved for +ordinary use at luncheon and dinner, as well as for +afternoon and evening entertainments, and have a +special value for invalids, as they contain nourishment +and are at the same time very refreshing. +When required for use, dissolve a bottle of the jelly, +and mix with it five times its bulk of water, the +beverage can then be used either hot or cold; if in +standing it should be slightly thickened it will only be +necessary briskly to stir it with a spoon. Lemon, +orange, and cherry jelly, with the addition of water as +directed, will be found superior to any other beverage +of the kind, and specially excellent for children's +parties.</p> + +<p>The following "cups" are delicious made with the +jelly as directed.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Claret Cup</span>, made merely with seltzer water, claret, +and <span class="smcap">Port Wine Jelly</span>, will be found superior to the +ordinary preparation. A little sugar may be added if +desired. To a bottle of claret and a pint of seltzer-water +use a half-pint bottle of <span class="smcap">Port Wine Jelly</span>, stir +briskly until well mixed, put in a sprig of balm and +borage, three thick slices of cucumber; place the vessel<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> +containing the claret cup covered over on ice for an +hour; strain out the herbs before serving.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Badminton Cup</span> is made with Burgundy, in the +same way as the above, with the addition of a bottle +of <span class="smcap">Orange Jelly</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Champagne Cup</span> requires equal quantities of the +wine and seltzer-water, with a bottle of <span class="smcap">Orange +Jelly</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cider Cup</span> is made with a pint and a half of cider, +a bottle of soda-water, and a bottle of either <span class="smcap">Orange</span>, +<span class="smcap">Lemon</span>, or <span class="smcap">Sherry Jelly</span>.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cherry Cup.</span>—Half-a-pint of claret, a quart of +soda-water, and a half-pint bottle of <span class="smcap">Cherry Jelly</span>.</p> + +<h3>MULLED PORT WINE.</h3> + +<p>Dissolve a bottle of Port Wine Jelly and add to it +four times its bulk of boiling water with a little nutmeg, +and, if liked, a crushed clove.</p> + +<h3>LEMONADE.</h3> + +<p>Half-a-teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved +in a quart of water, with a sliced lemon and +sweetened with sugar, forms a good lemonade, and +is a cooling and refreshing drink. A small pinch of +the Citric Acid dissolved in a tumbler of water with +a little sugar and a pinch of bicarbonate of potash, +makes an effervescing draught. These acidulated +drinks are exceedingly useful for allaying thirst; and +as refrigerants in feverish and inflammatory complaints +they are invaluable.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span></p> + +<h3>LEMONADE (A NEW RECIPE).</h3> + +<p>Dissolve three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar +and the contents of a threepenny packet of Nelson's +Citric Acid in a quart of boiling water; then add two +quarts of fresh cold water and one-twelfth part of a +bottle of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. The above +quantity of sugar may be increased or decreased +according to taste.</p> + +<h3>GINGERADE.</h3> + +<p>Crush an ounce of whole ginger, pour over it a +quart of boiling water, cover the vessel, and let the +infusion stand until cold. (The Extract of Ginger +may be used in place of this infusion). Strain through +flannel; add a teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, +six drops of Nelson's Lemon Flavouring, and a quarter +of a pound of lump sugar; stir until dissolved, and +the Gingerade will be ready.</p> + +<h3>AN EXTRACT OF GINGER FOR FAMILY USE.</h3> + +<p>An Extract of Ginger made as follows is most +useful for family purposes, and can be substituted for +the infusion in Gingerade. Crush half-a-pound of +fine whole ginger in the mortar, or cut into small +pieces. Put into a bottle with half-a-pint of unsweetened +gin, let it stand for a month, shaking it +occasionally, then drain it off into another bottle, +allowing it to stand until it has become clear, when +it will be fit for use.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span></p> + +<h3>LEMON SYRUP.</h3> + +<p>Boil a pound of fine loaf sugar in a pint-and-a-half +of water. Remove all scum as it rises, and continue +boiling gently until the syrup begins to thicken and +assumes a golden tinge, then add a pint of strained +lemon-juice or a packet of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved +in water, and allow both to boil together for +half-an-hour. Pour the syrup into a jug, to each pint +add one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence +of Lemon, and when cold bottle and cork well.</p> + +<p>The juice of Seville oranges may be made into a +syrup in the same way as that of lemons, or lemon and +orange juice may be used in equal quantities. These +syrups are useful for making summer drinks, and for +invalids as lemonade or orangeade.</p> + +<h3>MILK BEVERAGE.</h3> + +<p>A very agreeable and useful beverage is made by +dissolving a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine +in a pint of milk. A spoonful of cream can, if preferred, +be used with a bottle of soda-water. For +invalids, this beverage can be used instead of tea or +coffee, and may be preferable in many cases on +account of the nourishment it contains; it will also +be found an excellent substitute, taken hot, for wine-whey, +or posset, as a remedy for a cold. For summer +use, Milk Beverage is delicious, and may be flavoured +with raspberry or strawberry syrup. If on standing it +should thicken, it will only be necessary briskly to +beat it up with a spoon.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + +<h3>CITRIC ACID.</h3> + +<p>This acid exists in the juice of many fruits, such as +the orange, currant, and quince, but especially in that +of the lemon. It is chiefly made from the concentrated +juice of lemons, imported from Sicily and +Southern Italy, and which, after undergoing certain +methods of preparation, yields the crystals termed +Citric Acid. These crystals may be used for all the +purposes for which lemon-juice is employed. In the +manufacture of the Citric Acid now offered to the +public by Messrs. G. Nelson, Dale, and Co., only the +pure juice of the lemon is used.</p> + +<h3>ESSENCE OF LEMON.</h3> + +<p>This well-known essence is extracted from the little +cells visible in the rind of lemons, by submitting +raspings of the fruit to pressure. The greater portion +of the oil of lemons sold in England is imported from +Portugal, Italy, and France. It is very frequently +adulterated with oil of turpentine. In order to present +the public with a perfectly pure commodity, G. Nelson, +Dale, and Co. import their Essence of Lemon direct +from Sicily, and from a manufacturer in whom they +have the fullest confidence.</p> + +<p>Nelson's Essence of Lemon is sold in graduated +bottles, eightpence each, each bottle containing +sufficient for twelve quarts of jelly.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">MACARONI, ETC.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>We now give recipes for a few useful little dishes, chiefly +of macaroni, which can be had at such a price as to +bring it within the reach of all classes. English-made +macaroni can be bought at fourpence, and even less, +the pound, and the finest Italian at sixpence. The +Naples, or pipe-macaroni, is the most useful for +families, and the Genoa, or twisted, for high-class +dishes. The English taste is in favour of macaroni +boiled soft, and in order to make it so, many cooks +soak it. But this is not correct, and it is not at all +necessary to soak macaroni. If kept boiling in +sufficient water, the macaroni requires no attention—ebullition +prevents it sticking to the saucepan.</p> + +<p>Although we give several ways of finishing macaroni, +it is excellent when merely boiled in water with salt, +as in the first recipe, eaten as an accompaniment to +meat, or with stewed fruit.</p> + +<h3>MACARONI WITH CHEESE.</h3> + +<p>Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni broken +into pieces an inch long, into three pints of boiling +water, with a large pinch of salt. The saucepan +should be large, or the water will rise over when the +macaroni boils fast, which it should do for twenty or +twenty-five minutes. When done, strain the macaroni +through a colander, put it back into the saucepan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> +with an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of white +pepper and of salt, if necessary, and shake it over the +fire for a minute or two. Take the saucepan off the +fire, and stir into the macaroni two ounces or more, +if liked, of grated Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately +with crisp dry toast, cut in neat pieces. If +not convenient to use Parmesan, a mild dry English +or American cheese will answer very well. Some +cooks prefer, when the macaroni is boiled, to put +a fourth part of it on to a hot dish, then to strew +over it a fourth part of the grated cheese, and so on +till all of both are used, cheese, of course, covering +the top.</p> + +<h3>MACARONI CHEESE.</h3> + +<p>Boil and drain the macaroni, mix with a quarter of +a pound an ounce of butter, and two ounces of grated +cheese; pepper or cayenne pepper and salt to taste. +Put the macaroni in a dish and strew over it sufficient +grated cheese to cover it up, run a little dissolved +butter over the top, and put it in the oven till it is a +bright-yellow colour; serve quickly.</p> + +<h3>MACARONI WITH BACON.</h3> + +<p>Boil two ounces of streaky bacon, cut it into dice +or mince it, stir it into a quarter of a pound of +macaroni boiled as for macaroni cheese: if liked, add +a few drops of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and serve +very hot.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span></p> + +<h3>MACARONI WITH ONIONS.</h3> + +<p>Boil the macaroni as above, mix with it two or three +onions sliced and fried a delicate brown, add a few +spoonfuls of gravy, stir over the fire for a few minutes +and serve.</p> + +<h3>STEWED MACARONI.</h3> + +<p>Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni into three +pints of boiling water with a teaspoonful of salt, and +let it boil for twenty minutes. Drain in a colander, +then put it into a stewpan with half a tin of Nelson's +Extract of Meat dissolved in half-a-pint of water, and +stir over the fire for five minutes. Take it off the +fire and stir in one ounce of grated cheese, pepper +and salt to taste.</p> + +<h3>MACARONI WITH TOMATOES.</h3> + +<p>Prepare the macaroni as in the above recipe, put +it into a stewpan with a small piece of butter and a +teacupful of tomato sauce, or a small bottle of conserve +of tomatoes, and stir briskly over the fire for +five minutes.</p> + +<h3>SWEET MACARONI.</h3> + +<p>Boil the macaroni as for the other dishes, but with +only a pinch of salt, until tender, when drained put +into a stewpan with a gill of milk to each two ounces, +and two ounces of sifted lump sugar. Any flavouring +may be used, but perhaps there is nothing better +than grated lemon-peel, and for those who like it, +powdered cinnamon or grated nutmeg. Stir over the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span> +fire until all the milk is absorbed; a little cream is, +of course, an improvement. For those who do not +like milk, the juice of a lemon, or a little sherry, may +be substituted, and for a superior dish vanilla can be +used for flavouring.</p> + +<h3>BOILED CHEESE.</h3> + +<p>Put four tablespoonfuls of beer into a small saucepan, +shred into it a quarter of a pound of good new +cheese, and stir briskly over the fire until all is dissolved +and is on the point of boiling, then take it +off instantly, for, if the cheese is allowed to boil, it +will become tough. Have ready slices of toasted +bread, spread the cheese on it, and serve as quickly +as possible.</p> + +<h3>LES CANAPÉS AU PARMESAN.</h3> + +<p>Take the crumb of a French roll, cut it into rounds +a quarter of an inch thick, put them into a wire +frying-basket, immerse in hot fat, and crisp the bread +instantly. Throw it on to paper, dry, and sprinkle +over each piece a thick layer of grated Parmesan +cheese, pepper, and salt. Put the canapés in a Dutch +oven before a clear fire, just to melt the cheese, and +serve immediately they are done.</p> + +<h3>RICE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.</h3> + +<p>Boil a quarter of a pound of Patna rice in water +with salt; drain it, toss it up in a stewpan with two +ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of cayenne<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> +pepper. Put a quarter of the rice on a hot dish, +strew over it equally an ounce of grated Parmesan +cheese, then put another portion of rice and cheese +until all is used. Serve immediately.</p> + +<h3>SCALLOPED EGGS.</h3> + +<p>Take a cupful of finely-sifted bread-crumbs, moisten +them with a little cold milk, cream, or gravy, and +season nicely with pepper and salt. Put a thin layer +of the moistened crumbs on a lightly-buttered dish, +cut two hard eggs into slices, and dip each piece in very +thick well-seasoned white sauce, or Nelson's Extract +of Meat dissolved in a little water, so as to glaze the +eggs. Having arranged the slices of egg neatly on +the layer of moistened bread-crumbs, cover them +with another layer of it, and on the top strew +thickly some pale gold-coloured raspings. Bake in +a moderate oven for ten minutes. If potatoes are +liked, they make a nice substitute for bread-crumbs. +Take some mashed potatoes, add to them a spoonful +of cream or gravy, and proceed as with bread-crumbs. +Serve gravy made of Nelson's Extract of Meat with +this dish.</p> + +<h3>SCOTCH WOODCOCK.</h3> + +<p>Melt a small piece of butter the size of a nut in a +stewpan, break into it two eggs, with a spoonful of +milk or gravy, and pepper and salt, stir round quickly +until the eggs begin to thicken, keep the yolks whole +as long as you can. When finished, pour on to a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> +buttered toast, to which has been added a little essence +of anchovy or anchovy paste, and serve.</p> + +<h3>MUSHROOMS WITH CREAM SAUCE.</h3> + +<p>Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix in +the yolks of two eggs lightly beaten, the juice of a +lemon, and a pinch of pepper and salt, stir this over +the fire until thickened. Have ready half-a-pint of +plain butter sauce, and mix all gradually together, +with a small tin of champignons, or about the same +quantity of fresh mushrooms chopped and stewed +gently for ten minutes in a little broth or milk. +Stir them with the liquor in which they have stewed +into the sauce, and let them stand for a few minutes, +then spread the mixture on to neat slices of toasted +bread. The sauce must be a good thickness, so that +it will not run off the toast, and care must be taken +in the first process not to oil the butter or make the +sauce lumpy.</p> + +<h3>TO BOIL RICE (A BLACK MAN'S RECIPE).</h3> + +<p>As rice is so often badly cooked, we make no +apology for giving the black man's celebrated recipe. +Although he does not recommend a little salt in the +water, we think that a small quantity should always +be used, even when the rice has to be served as a +sweet dish. "Wash him well, much wash in cold +water, rice flour, make him stick. Water boil all +ready, very fast. Shove him in; rice can't burn, +water shake him too much. Boil quarter of an hour<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> +or little more. Rub one rice in thumb and finger; +if all rub away him quite done. Put rice in colander, +hot water run away. Pour cup of cold water on him, +put back in saucepan, keep him covered near the +fire, then rice all ready. Eat him up."</p> + +<h3>TO MINCE VEGETABLES.</h3> + +<p>Peel the onion or turnip, put it on the board, cut +it first one way in slices, not quite through, lest it +should fall to pieces, then cut it in slices the other +way, which will produce long cubes. Finally turn +the onion on its side and cut through, when it will +fall into dice-like pieces. The inconvenience and +sometimes positive pain caused to the eyes by +mincing or chopping the onions on a board is thus +obviated, and a large quantity can be quickly prepared +in the above way.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">HINTS ON HOUSEKEEPING.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/longish-line-thin.png" width="90" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">How</span> many people are crying, "How can we save? +Where can we retrench? Shall the lot fall on the +house-furnishing, or the garden, or the toilet, or the +breakfast or the dinner table? Shall we do with one +servant less, move into a cheaper neighbourhood, or +into a smaller house? No, we cannot make any +such great changes in our way of life. There are the +boys and girls growing up; we must keep up appearances +for their sakes. We remember the old proverb +that, 'however bad it may be to be poor, it is much +worse to look poor.'" Yet, although, for many +reasons, it is often most difficult to retrench on a +large scale, there are people who find it easier, for +instance, to put down the carriage than to see that +the small outgoings of housekeeping are more duly +regulated. It is seldom, indeed, that a wife can +assist her husband save by lightening his expenses by +her prudence and economy. Too many husbands, +nowadays, can vouch for the truth of the old saying, +"A woman can throw out with a spoon faster than a +man can throw in with a shovel." The prosperity of +a middle-class home depends very much on what is +saved, and the reason that this branch of a woman's +business is so neglected is that it is very difficult and +very troublesome.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span> +"Take care of your pence and the pounds will take +care of themselves," is a maxim that was much in use +when we were young. Nowadays it is more fashionable +to speak of this kind of thing as "penny wise +and pound foolish." Looking to the outgoings of pence +is voted slow work, and it is thought fine to show a +languid indifference to small savings. "Such a fuss +over a pennyworth of this or that, it's not worth while." +Yes, but it is not that particular pennyworth which is +alone in question, there is the principle involved—the +great principle of thrift—which must underlie all good +government. The heads of households little think of +what evils they perpetuate when they shut their eyes to +wasteful practices, because it is easier to bear the cost +than to prevent waste.</p> + +<p>The young servant trained under one careless how +she uses, or rather misuses, that which is entrusted to +her, carries in her turn the wasteful habits she has +learned into another household, and trains others in a +contempt for thrifty ways, until the knowledge of how +to do things at once well and economically is entirely +lost.</p> + +<p>We often hear it urged that it is bad for the mind +of a lady to be harassed by the petty details of small +savings, and that if she can afford to let things go +easily she should not be so harassed. But under +no circumstances must any mistress of a household +permit habitual waste in such matters. When the +establishment is so large as to be to a great extent +removed from the immediate supervision of the +mistress, all she can do is to keep a careful watch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> +over every item of expenditure, and by every means +in her power to let her servants feel that it is +to their interest as well as to her own to keep +within due bounds. A good cook is always a good +manager. She makes many a meal of what an inferior +cook would waste. The housekeeper should +therefore insist on having good cooking at a reasonable +cost, and never keep a cook who does not make +the most of everything. In a large household a +mistress cannot look after the sifting of cinders, but +she can check her coal bills, and by observation find +out in what department the waste is going on. It +may not be possible to pay periodical visits to the +gas-meter to see if the tap is turned on to the full +when such force is not necessary, but she can from +quarter to quarter compare notes, or have fixed, where +it is easy for her to get at it, one of the gas-regulators +now in use. And thus, by the exercise of judicious +control and supervision, the guiding mind of the mistress +will make itself felt in every department of +the household without any undue worry to herself. +The mistress of a small household who has things +more under her immediate control, and whose income, +no less than her sense of moral obligation, +obliges her to look carefully after the outgoings, +need not be told what a trial it is to be constantly +on the watch to prevent waste. Probably she is +compelled to leave a certain quantity of stores for +general use; indeed, we doubt very much if there is +anything saved by the daily giving out of ounces and +spoonfuls of groceries, for if a servant is disposed to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> +be wasteful, she will be equally so with the small as +the larger quantity.</p> + +<p>What perpetual worry is caused by seeing how soap +is left in the water until it is so soft as to have lost half +its value! How many pence go in most households +in that way every week, we wonder!</p> + +<p>The scrubbing-brush also is left in water with +the soap. A fairly good brush costs at least two +shillings, and as one so treated only lasts half the +proper time you may safely calculate that a shilling is +soon wasted in that way. Brushes of all sorts are, as +a rule, most carelessly used, and left about anyhow +instead of being hung up. How much loss there is +in a year in the careless use of knives and plate! +Whenever possible both of these get into the hands +of the cook. Her own tools from neglect or misuse +have become blunt or worse, and she takes the +best blade and the plated or silver spoon whenever she +has a chance.</p> + +<p>The plate gets thrown in a heap into an earthenware +bowl to be bruised and scratched. The knives +are either put insufficiently wiped through the cleaner, +which is thus spoiled and made fit rather to dirty than +clean knives, or they are left lying in hot water to +have the handles loosened and discoloured.</p> + +<p>Probably jars, tin boxes, and canisters are provided +in sufficient quantity to put away and keep +stores properly. But for all that, as it would seem in +a most ingenious manner, loss and waste are contrived. +Raw sugar is kept in the paper until it rots through it. +Macaroni, rice, and such things are left a prey to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> +mice or insects. The vinegar and sauce bottles stand +without the corks. Delicate things, which soon lose +their fine aroma, as tea, coffee, and spices, are kept in +uncovered canisters: the lid is first left off, then mislaid. +The treacle jar stands open for stray fingers +and flies to disport themselves therein. Capers are +put away uncovered with vinegar, and when next +wanted are found to be mouldy. Perhaps the juice +of a lemon has been used; the peel, instead of being +preserved, is thrown away, or left lying about till +valueless. Herbs, which should have been at once +dried and sifted, are hid away in some corner to +become flavourless and dirty, and so on with every +kind of store and provision.</p> + +<p>It is impossible to calculate how many pennies +are lost daily, in a large number of houses, by the +absolute waste of pieces of bread left to mould or +thrown out because trouble to utilise them cannot +be taken. Whoever thinks anything of the small +quantities of good beer left in the jug; it is so much +easier to throw it away than put it in a bottle? Or +who will be at the trouble of boiling up that "drop" +of milk, which, nevertheless, cost a penny, and would +make, or help to make, a small pudding for the next +day? Then, again, how many bits of fat and suet +are lost because it is too much trouble to melt down +the first, and preserve the other by very simple and +effectual means?</p> + +<p>Butter in summer is allowed to remain melting in +the paper in which it is sent in, or perhaps it is put +on a plate, to which some pennyworths of the costly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> +stuff will stick and be lost. One would think it would +be as easy at once to put it into cold salted water, if +better means of cooling could not be used.</p> + +<p>If we pause here, it is not because we have +exhausted the list of things most woefully wasted, +mainly from want of thought, but because we have +not space to enumerate more of them. We can only +add that the importance of small household savings +cannot well be overrated, both because of the principle +involved and because of the substantial sum they represent +together. There is no need in any household +for even a penny a day to be wasted; and yet if we +look closely into things, how much money value is +lost daily in some one or other of the ways we have +mentioned. In the course of the year, the daily +pennies mount up to many pounds, and we are sure +that it is much safer once in a way lavishly to spend +the shillings than to be habitually careless of the outgoings +of the pence.</p> + +<p>Although it is not necessary that the mistress of a +household who can afford to keep servants should +herself do the cooking, or spend much time in her +kitchen, it is absolutely necessary that she should +understand the best methods, and know how everything +should be done.</p> + +<p>Many people will say that it is unbecoming for +women to be <i lang="fr">gourmands</i>; we agree with them, and +that it is equally unbecoming for men to be so. But +to be a <i lang="fr">gourmet</i> is another thing; and we ought not +to lose sight of the fact that food eaten with real +enjoyment and the satisfaction which accompanies a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span> +well-prepared meal, is greatly enhanced in value. +Professor C. Voit has clearly pointed out, in his +experiments and researches into diet, the great +value of palatable food as nourishment, and how +indispensable is a certain variety in our meals. +"We think," he says, "we are only tickling the +palate, and that it is nothing to the stomach and +digestive organs whether food is agreeable to the +palate or not, since they will digest it, if it is +digestible at all. But it is not so indifferent after +all, for the nerves of the tongue are connected +with other nerves and with nerve-centres, so that +the pleasure of the palate, or some pleasure, at any +rate, even if it is only imagination, which can only +originate in the central organ—the brain—often has +an active effect on other organs. This is a matter of +daily experience. Without the secretion of gastric +juice the assimilation of nourishment would be impossible. +If, therefore, some provocatives induce and +increase certain sensations and useful processes, they +are of essential value to health, and it is no bad +economy to spend something on them."</p> + +<p>It is surely somewhat singular that Englishwomen, +who have excelled in almost every other craft, should +be remarkable for their want of skill in cookery. +They have not been dismayed by any difficulties in +literature, art, or science, and yet how few are there +among us who can make a dish of porridge like a +Scotchwoman, or an omelette like a Frenchwoman! +The fact would seem to be, that educated women +having disdained to occupy themselves either theo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span>retically +or practically with cookery, those whose +legitimate business it has been have become indifferent +also. The whole aim of the modern British cook +seems to be to save herself trouble, and she will give +as much time and thought to finding out ways of +doing things in a slovenly manner as would go to +doing them properly.</p> + +<p>No doubt cooks have often so much work of other +kinds to do that they cannot give the necessary time +to cooking. In a case of this kind, the mistress +should herself give such help as she can, and bring +up her daughters to help in the kitchen. People in +middle-class life often expect the cook to do all the +kitchen work, and frequently some of the house work. +Of course, in small families, this is quite possible to +be done, and it is always best for servants, as for +other people, to be fully employed. But in large +families it is impossible the cooking can be properly +done, when the cook is harassed by so many other +occupations. Thus, because it takes less time and +attention than cooking smaller dishes, huge pieces of +meat are roasted or boiled daily, and the leg-of-mutton +style of dietary is perpetuated—declared to +be the most economical, and, in short, the best for all +the world.</p> + +<p>Probably it is because bread and butter can be +bought ready made, and involve no trouble, that they +are held to be the chief necessaries of life in every +English household. Some children almost live, if +they do not thrive, on bread and butter. Thoughtless +housekeepers think they have done their duty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> +when they have seen that a sufficient supply of these +articles has been sent in from the shops. When we +insist that everyone should have home-baked bread, +at once we shall be met with the "penny-wise" +suggestion that home-baked bread costs more than +baker's, because, being so nice, people eat more of it. +Good bread, we need not say, is far more nourishing +than that which is made from inferior materials or +adulterated even with non-injurious substances for +wheaten flour. Then all the other difficulties come +to the fore: cook spoils the bakings, the oven is not +suitable, and so on. To all these we answer: A good +housekeeper, one who looks beyond the sum total of +her weekly bills, who thinks no trouble too great to +provide such food as will maintain the health of her +family, will have home-baked bread.</p> + +<p>There are other points in domestic management +which do not receive the attention they deserve. Of +these we may cite the use of labour-saving machines +and of gas for cooking.</p> + +<p>How often do we hear it said: "I always have such +and such a thing done in that way, because it was my +mother's way!"</p> + +<p>This may be very nice and very natural, but it is +nevertheless a sentimental reason. What should we +think of a person who insisted on riding pillion, +because her mother rode pillion? Yet, this really is +pretty much the same thing as we see every day, +when ladies are so wedded to old ways that they +persist in employing the rough-and-ready implements +of domestic use, the pattern whereof has been handed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> +down from the Ark, instead of modern and scientific +inventions which save both time and trouble. In no +other department of the national life have the people +been so slow to adopt simple machinery as in that of +the household.</p> + +<p>It is alleged, in the first place, that labour-saving +machines are expensive; in the next place, that +servants do not understand them, and that they are +always getting out of order.</p> + +<p>As to the first objection, we would say that as these +machines—we speak only, of course, of really good +machines—are made, not only with the object of +saving labour, but material, the original cost of them +is in a short time repaid. As regards the second +objection, it seems incomprehensible that servants +should not use with care and thoughtfulness machines, +which not only save time and trouble, but greatly help +in making their work perfect.</p> + +<p>There is no doubt that by the more general +adoption of machinery household work would be +much lightened, and that if there were a demand for +it, enterprise would be much stimulated, and many +more useful helps would be produced. As it is, +manufacturers hesitate to bring out new inventions at +a great expense, when there is a doubt of securing the +appreciation of the public.</p> + +<p>Only the other day we were inquiring for a little +machine we had seen years ago, and were told by the +maker that, "like many other useful things, it had +been shelved by the public, and ultimately lost."</p> + +<p>Let us take the case of making bread at home.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> +By the use of a little simple dough-mixing machine, +supplied by Kent, 199, High Holborn, the operation +is easy, quick, cleanly, and certain. We have had one +of these in use for more than ten years, and during +that time have never had a bad batch of bread. Not +only in this machine do we make ten to eleven pounds +of dough in five minutes, but the kneading is most +perfectly done, and there is the great advantage of +securing perfect cleanliness, the hands not being used +at all in the process. Yet we do not suppose that +any number of the people who have admired the +bread have set up the machine. It cannot be the +cost of the machine, as it is inconsiderable, which +prevents its more general use, since in households +where expense is not an object the primitive process +is still in vogue.</p> + +<p>Many people imagine that washing machines are +only needed in large families where all the washing is +got up at home. But, if ever so small or only an +occasional wash is done, there is no exaggerating the +comfort and advantage of a machine which washes, +wrings, and mangles. So far from injuring linen, +machines of the best kind wear it far less than rough +hand labour, and with reasonable care it will be +found that delicate fabrics are not split in the wringing +by a good machine, as they so frequently are by +the hand.</p> + +<p>Then there is the case of the knife-cleaning machine. +There are families who, instead of using one, employ a +boy to ruin their knives by rubbing them on a board with +Bath brick. They do so, they will tell you, "because<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> +machines wear out the knives." The slightest acquaintance +with the mechanism of a good knife-cleaning +machine should suffice to show that the +brushes cannot wear out the knives, whereas the +action of the board and brick is the most destructive +that can be imagined. The objection of undue wear +being disposed of, we are told that the machines +soon get out of order, and are a constant expense. +Of course, with careless usage anything will come to +grief, but the fact remains that Kent, the leading +manufacturer of knife-cleaners, has published a certificate +from a lady who has had in constant use, for +thirty years, one of his machines, which during that +time has required no repairs. As to knives, we know +of some which have been cleaned daily for twenty-five +years in a machine, and are very little the worse +for wear.</p> + +<p>Dressmakers tell us that, but for the sewing +machine, an elaborate style of trimming ladies' +dresses would be impossible. We know that many +inexpensive delicacies, which it is not practicable +to have now because of the time and trouble they +require, could easily be managed by the use of little +articles of domestic machinery. For instance, take +potted meat. There is the excellent Combination +Mincer, also Kent's, by which this is rapidly and +perfectly done, and which enables cooks to use +up many scraps of material in a most acceptable +way, and without the labour of the pestle and +mortar. This machine, however, is but little known. +It costs but a sovereign, is useful for all mincing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> +purposes, and makes the best sausages in the +world.</p> + +<p>To make sausages properly, a machine must have +an adjustment of the cutters by which the sinews of +the meat and bits of skin are retained on them, as +nothing is so unpleasant as to find these when eating +the sausages. Thus it will be seen how necessary it +is, in setting up machinery which should last a lifetime, +to have the best inventions in the market. +Not very long ago, a friend asked our opinion on +the merits of the different makers of knife-cleaning +machines. We explained to her the mechanism of +the best of them, pointed out the superior workmanship, +and that she should not grudge the money to +have one which would do its work properly and be +durable. Probably under the impression that "in +the multitude of counsellors there is wisdom," our +friend made further inquiries, and ended by buying +a much-advertised machine which, she was assured, +was better and cheaper than that of Kent, the original +patentee. When she had the machine home, and +calculated, together with the cost of carriage, her own +expenses in going to London to choose it, she found +that she had saved exactly eighteenpence, and then +that her bargain would not clean the knives!</p> + +<p>The prejudices which for a long time existed against +cooking by gas have gradually cleared away now that +improved stoves have been introduced, and the public +have experience of its many advantages. There are +yet some difficulties to be met in bringing gas into +more general use, one of which, the high price<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> +charged for it, is beyond the control of the housekeeper, +and another, that of teaching servants to be +economical and careful in its use. When this last +can be overcome, even with the first named drawback, +gas will not be found more expensive than +coal. The cost of wood, of sweeping the chimney, +and the extra wear and tear occasioned by the soot, +smoke, and dust of a coal fire, must be calculated in +addition to the fuel itself.</p> + +<p>It will be seen, when we say that the entire cooking +for a small family having late dinners, bread baked, +and much water heated, is done for something under +£2 a quarter, that gas as a fuel is not so great an +extravagance after all. The stove used has the oven +lined with a non-conducting substance, which has the +advantage of keeping the heat within instead of +sending it into the kitchen, as stoves made only of +iron plates are apt to do. We have but space to add +that the benefit to health, the cleanliness, the saving +of time, labour, and temper, to say nothing of the +superiority of cooking done by gas in such a stove as +has been described, can only be fully appreciated by +those who, like the writer, have had twenty years' +experience of all these advantages.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">NEW ZEALAND FROZEN MUTTON.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/longish-line-thin.png" width="90" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> high price at which meat has stood for some +years has made it necessary for the working classes to +restrict themselves to a scanty allowance of animal +food, and this often of poor quality. The difficulty +of providing joints of meat for their families has, +indeed, also been felt severely by people who are +comparatively well-to-do. Under these circumstances +capitalists have thought it worth a considerable investment +of money to discover some means of bringing +the cheap and magnificent supplies of New Zealand +into the English market. After many failures, success +has at length crowned the enterprise, and nothing can +exceed the perfection in which New Zealand mutton is +now placed on the English market. It is universally +admitted that the meat, both as respects its nutritive +value and its flavour, is unsurpassed, while the price is +very moderate. The same remarks apply to New Zealand +lamb. It commences to arrive in January, and is in +the height of its season when our English lamb is a +luxury which can only be enjoyed by the few.</p> + +<p>Nelson Brothers, Limited, stand foremost among +the importers of this invaluable food supply. The +mutton and lamb selected by them is of the highest +quality, and their system of refrigeration is perfect. In +summer these New Zealand meats have a great advantage +over the home supply, as although in keeping +they may lose colour, they remain good and sweet +much longer than English-killed meat.</p> + +<p>The Company have large refrigerating stores under +Cannon Street Station capable of holding some 70,000 +sheep, and have recently erected stores of <em>treble +that capacity</em> at Nelson's Wharf, Commercial Road,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> +Lambeth, wherein the latest improvements both as +regards construction and refrigerating machinery have +been adopted, in order to facilitate the development of +the frozen meat trade.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Nelson Brothers</span> have also Branch Offices at—</p> + +<ul> +<li>15<i>a</i>, <span class="smcap">Richmond Street, Liverpool.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Lease Lane, Birmingham.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Lawns Lane, Leeds.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">The Abattoirs, Manchester.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Baltic Chambers, Newcastle-on-Tyne.</span></li> +<li><span class="smcap">Tresillian Terrace, Cardiff.</span></li> +</ul> + +<p>If any of our readers are anxious to try the meat, +and are unable to procure it, a postcard to the Head +Office, 15, Dowgate Hill, London, E.C., or to any of +the Branch Offices, will at once put them in the way +of carrying out their desire.</p> + +<p>As it occasionally happens that from want of some +little precaution New Zealand meat does not come to +table in its best condition, we offer the following hints +for the treatment of it:</p> + +<p>Frozen mutton, like that which is freshly killed, +requires to be hung a certain time—this is most essential +to remember, otherwise the meat eats hard and +tough—and it is important to observe, both when hanging +and roasting, that it is so placed that the juice shall +not run out of the cut end. Hind-quarters, haunches, +and legs should be hung with the knuckle end downwards; +loins and saddles by the flaps, thus giving them +a horizontal position. The meat in winter should be +kept in the kitchen some time before cooking, and +after being exposed for a few minutes to a rapid heat +in order to seal up and keep the gravy in the joint, it +should be cooked rather slowly, thus taking a little +more time than is usually given to English meat.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="pad">INDEX.</h2> + +<div class="decoline"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="Decorative Line" title="" /> +</div> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="ucsmcap ralign">PAGE</span><br /></li> + +<li><span class="smcap">Albumen</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Beef Tea</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li>" " as a solid, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Beverages</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li>Badminton Cup, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></span></li> + <li>Champagne Cup, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></span></li> + <li>Cherry Cup, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></span></li> + <li>Cider Cup, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></span></li> + <li>Citric Acid, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></span></li> + <li>Claret Cup, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></span></li> + <li>Ginger, an Extract of, for family use, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></span></li> + <li>Gingerade, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></span></li> + <li>Lemon, Essence of, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></span> + <ul class="sub"> + <li>" Syrup, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></span></li> + </ul></li> + <li>Lemonade, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></span> + <ul class="sub"> + <li> " (a new recipe), <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></span></li> + </ul></li> + <li>Milk, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></span></li> + <li>Port Wine, Mulled, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Blanc-mange</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Cakes</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> Almond Paste, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></span></li> +<li> Chocolate, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></li> +<li> Cocoa-nut, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " Rock, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Macaroons, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></span></li> +<li> Pound, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " Plain, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Savoy Sponge, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " " Lemon, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Sugar Icing, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Citric Acid</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li> +<span class="smcap">Creams</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li>Apricot, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></span></li> + <li>Champagne, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></li> + <li>Charlotte Russe, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></span></li> + <li>Cheese and Macaroni, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></span></li> + <li>Cherry, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></span></li> + <li>Chocolate, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></span></li> + <li>Coffee, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></span></li> + <li>Fig, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></li> + <li>Fruit, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></span></li> + <li><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122"></a> + Italian, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></span></li> + <li>Lemon, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li> " Imitation, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></span></li> +</ul></li> + <li>Mandarin, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></span></li> + <li>Orange, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li> " Mousse, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></span></li> +</ul></li> + <li>Oranges, Chartreuse of, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_82">82</a></span></li> + <li>Palace, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></span></li> + <li>Pineapple, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></span></li> + <li>Strawberry, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li> " Trifle, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_84"> 84</a></span></li> +</ul></li> + <li>Syllabub, Solid, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></span></li> + <li>Velvet, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></span></li> + <li>Whipped, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Essences</span>— +<ul class="sub"> + <li>Almonds, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></li> + <li>Lemon, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></li> + <li>Vanilla, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Extract of Meat</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Fish, Little Dishes of</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li>Cod Cutlets, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></span></li> + <li>Eels, Collared, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></span></li> + <li>Fish, Galantine of, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></span></li> + <li>Herrings, Fried, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li> " Rolled, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></span></li> +</ul></li> + <li>Sole, Filleted, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li> " Fillets of, en Aspic, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li>" " Fried, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></span></li> + <li>" " Sautés, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></span></li> + <li>" " with Lobster, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></span></li> +</ul></li> + <li>", Fried, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></span></li> +</ul></li> + <li>Whiting, Baked, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Flummery, Dutch</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li> +<span class="smcap">Gelatine</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " How to use, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_64">64</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Housekeeping, Hints on</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Jellies, Nelson's Bottled</span>— +<ul class="sub"> +<li>Calf's Foot, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></li> + <li>Cherry, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></li> + <li>Lemon, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></li> + <li>Orange, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></li> + <li>Port, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></li> + <li>Sherry, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Jellies, Tablet</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_8">8</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li> +<span class="smcap">Jelly-Making, On</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> Jelly, Apple, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " Aspic, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></span></li> +<li> " Brilliant, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></span></li> +<li> " Claret, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></span></li> +<li> " Cocoa, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></span></li> +<li> " Coffee, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></span></li> +<li><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123"></a> + " Orange Fruit, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></span></li> +<li> " Oranges filled with, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></span></li> +<li> " Ribbon, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></span></li> +<li> " Strengthening, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_71">71</a></span></li> +<li> " with Fruit, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Jelly-bag, how to make a, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Jelly-Jubes</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Lemon Sponge</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Lozenges</span>— +<ul class="sub"> + <li>Gelatine, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></span></li> + <li>Licorice, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Macaroni, etc.</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li>Canapés au Parmesan, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></li> + <li>Cheese, Boiled, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></li> + <li>Eggs, Scalloped, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></li> + <li>Macaroni Cheese, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li> " Stewed, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></li> + <li> " Sweet, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></li> + <li> " with Bacon, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li> " " Cheese, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></span></li> + <li> " " Onions, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></li> + <li> " " Tomatoes, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_100">100</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +</ul></li> + <li>Mushrooms with Cream Sauce, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></li> + <li>Rice, to Boil (a black man's recipe), <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_103">103</a></span></li> + <li>Rice with Parmesan Cheese, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></span></li> + <li>Scotch Woodcock, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></span></li> + <li>Vegetables, to Mince, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Meat, Little Dishes of</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> Brain Fritters, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></span></li> +<li> Chicken, Brown Fricassée of, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></span></li> +<li> Chicken Sauté, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " in Aspic Jelly, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Croquettes, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></li> +<li> Curry, Dry, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></span></li> +<li> Kidneys, Broiled, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " Sautés, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></span></li> +<li> " with Mushrooms, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></span></li> +<li> " with Piccalilli, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_39">39</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Lamb's Fry, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " Sweetbreads, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Marrow Toast, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></span></li> +<li> Meat Cakes à l'Italienne, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></span></li> +<li> Mutton, Cold, Potted, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " Collops, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></span></li> +<li> " Cutlets, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></span></li> +<li> " Pies, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></li> +<li> " Roulades of, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></span></li> +<li> " Sauté, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Ox Brain, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></span></li> +<li> Pork Pie, Raised, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></span></li> +<li> Potato Hash, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></span></li> +<li> Sausages, Pork, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></span></li> +<li> Veal à la Casserole, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></span></li> +<li> Veal and Ham Pie, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></span></li> +<li> Veal Cutlets in White Sauce, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124"></a> +<span class="smcap">Puddings</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li>Apple Fool, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " Meringue, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Baden-Baden, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></span></li> +<li> Brandy Sauce, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></span></li> +<li> Cabinet, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></span></li> +<li> Capital, The, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></li> +<li> Cheesecake, Welsh, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></span></li> +<li> Chocolate, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></span></li> +<li> Cocoa-nut, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></span></li> +<li> Compote of Apples with Fried Bread, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></span></li> +<li> Compote of Prunes, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></span></li> +<li> Custard, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></span></li> +<li> Duchess of Fife's, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></span></li> +<li> Fritters, Italian, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></span></li> +<li> Jubilee, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></span></li> +<li> Natal, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></span></li> +<li> Omelet, Friar's, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> +<li> " Soufflé, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_52">52</a></span></li> +</ul></li> +<li> Pears, Stewed, with Rice, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></span></li> +<li> Queen's, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></span></li> +<li> Raspberry and Currant, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></span></li> +<li> Soufflé, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_51">51</a></span></li> +<li> Sponge Soufflé, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></span></li> +<li> Vanilla Rusk, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></span></li> +<li> Warwickshire, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Soups</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li>Artichoke, Brown, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></span></li> + <li>Beef and Onion, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></li> + <li>Beef, Lentil, and Vegetable, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></li> + <li>Beef, Pea, and Vegetable, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></span></li> + <li>Glaze, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></span></li> + <li>Gravy, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></span></li> + <li>Hare, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></span></li> + <li>Julienne, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></span></li> + <li>Mulligatawny, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li> " Nelson's, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></span></li> + <li> " Thin, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></span></li> +</ul></li> + <li>Rabbit, Brown; Clear, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_17">17</a></span></li> + <li>Turtle, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_19">19</a></span> +<ul class="sub"> + <li> " Mock, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></span></li> +</ul></li> + <li>Vermicelli, Clear, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></span></li> +</ul> +</li> +</ul> + +<ul class="index"> +<li><span class="smcap">Tinned Meats</span>, <span class="ralign"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></span></li> +</ul> + +<div class="trademark" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/trademark.png" width="350" height="81" alt="" title="TRADE MARK." /> +</div> + +<div class="decoline-ad2" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/long-line-thin.png" width="175" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center sm2">CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS, CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS.</p> + +<div class="ad2"> + +<div class="royalpatent" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/royal-mail.png" width="350" height="80" alt="" title="By Royal Letters Patent." /> +</div> + +<p class="center lger">For First Class Jellies</p> + +<div class="decoline-ad" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/long-line-thin.png" width="175" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center"> +<span class="spacey lh2"><span class="lger">NELSON'S</span><br /> +<span class="lgst">OPAQUE GELATINE</span></span><br /> +SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED.</p> + +<p class="center">See Recipe, <a href="#Page_65">Page 65</a>.</p> + +<p class="center bt-dbl"> +<span class="spacey lh2"> +<span class="lger">NELSON'S</span><br /> +<span class="lgst">TABLET JELLIES.</span> +</span></p> + +<p class="center"><i>Orange, Lemon, Calf's Foot, Cherry, Raspberry,<br /> +Vanilla, Apricot, Pear, Apple, Black Currant,<br /> +Pine Apple, Noyeau, etc.</i></p> + +<p class="center">Quarts, 9d.; Pints, 6d.; Half-Pints, 3d.</p> + +<div class="bt-dbl" style="width: 12em;"> +</div> + +<p class="center lgst spacey"> +WINE TABLET JELLIES.</p> + +<p class="center"><i>Port, Sherry, Orange.</i></p> + +<p class="center">Pints only, 9d.</p> + +<p>These new Jellies are perfectly pure and wholesome, and +the flavours excellent, while their exceeding cheapness brings +them within the reach of all classes.</p> + +<p class="center bt">G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.</p> +</div> + +<div class="ad2"> + +<div class="royalpatent" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/royal-mail.png" width="350" height="80" alt="" title="By Royal Letters Patent." /> +</div> + +<div class="decoline-ad" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/long-line-thin.png" width="175" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center lgst spacey">NELSON'S SOUPS.</p> + +<p class="center">These Soups are already thoroughly cooked and seasoned, +and can be prepared for the table in a few minutes.</p> + +<div class="decoline-ad" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/long-line-thin.png" width="175" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center med spacey"> +BEEF AND CARROTS.<br /> +BEEF AND CELERY.<br /> +BEEF AND ONIONS.<br /> +MULLIGATAWNY.</p> + +<p class="center">In Pint Packets, 6d. each.</p> + +<div class="decoline-ad" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/long-line-thin.png" width="175" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center med spacey">BEEF, PEAS, AND VEGETABLES.<br /> +BEEF, LENTILS, AND VEGETABLES.</p> + +<p class="center">In Quart Packets, 6d. each.</p> + +<div class="decoline-ad" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/long-line-thin.png" width="175" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center med">Penny Packets of Soup for charitable purposes.</p> + +<p class="center bt-dbl lh2"> +<span class="lgst spacey">NELSON'S<br /> +EXTRACT OF MEAT,</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">FOR MAKING AND IMPROVING</span><br /> +<span class="lg">SOUPS, GRAVIES, BEEF-TEA, etc., etc.</span></p> + +<div class="decoline-ad" style="width: 175px;"> +<img src="images/long-line-thin.png" width="175" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center">In Ounce Packets, 4d. each, and 1 lb. Tins, 5s. each.</p> + +<p class="center">NOTE.</p> + +<p class="center">One packet is sufficient for a Pint of Strong Soup.</p> + +<p class="center bt">G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.</p> +</div> + +<div class="ad2"> + +<div class="royalpatent" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/royal-mail.png" width="350" height="80" alt="" title="By Royal Letters Patent." /> +</div> + +<p class="center lger spacey">NOTICE.</p> + +<div class="decoline-ad" style="width: 75px;"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center lh1"> +<span class="lger">On RECEIPT of POSTAL ORDER for 2/6</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">A BOX CONTAINING SAMPLES OF</span><br /> +<span class="lgst b1">NELSON'S SPECIALITIES</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">AND A COPY OF</span><br /> +<span class="lgst">"NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS,"</span><br /> +<span class="sm2">Will be sent, CARRIAGE PAID, to any address<br /> +in the United Kingdom, by</span><br /> +<span class="lg">G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., LIMITED,</span><br /> +14, Dowgate Hill, London, E.C. +</p> + +<div class="decoline-ad" style="width: 75px;"> +<img src="images/med-line-thin.png" width="75" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center"> +May also be obtained through any Grocer at the same price.</p> + +<div class="decoline-ad" style="width: 90px;"> +<img src="images/longish-line-thin.png" width="90" height="1" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center med"> +<em>N.B.—A Copy of "Home Comforts" will be sent, +gratis, on receipt of Penny Postage Stamp.</em> +</p> + +<p class="center bt">G. NELSON, DALE, & CO, Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London.</p> +</div> + +<div class="tn"> +<h4>Transcriber's Note:</h4> + +<p>Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note.</p> + +<p>The title page, originally following three pages of advertisements, has +been moved to the beginning of the book.</p> + +<p>The following corrections and changes were also made:</p> + +<ul class="corrections"> +<li><a href="#Page_12">p. 12</a>: fibrine to fibrin (the fibrin of the meat)</li> +<li><a href="#Page_17">p. 17</a>: entrée italicized to match other instances</li> +<li><a href="#Page_33">p. 33</a>: liitle to little (Season with a little pepper)</li> +<li><a href="#Page_122">p. 122</a>, Index: em-dash added to end of JELLIES, NELSON'S BOTTLED to +match similar entries</li> +<li><a href="#Page_124">p. 124</a>, Index: Compôte to Compote to match body of text (Compote of +Apples with Fried Bread, Compote of Prunes)</li> +</ul> + +<p>Inconsistencies in hyphenation (e.g. sugar-syrup vs. sugar syrup, +overnight vs. over-night) and variant spellings (e.g. omelette vs. +omelet) have not been corrected.</p> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Nelson's Home Comforts, by Mary Hooper + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS *** + +***** This file should be named 29519-h.htm or 29519-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/5/1/29519/ + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Lindy Walsh, S.D., and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Nelson's Home Comforts + Thirteenth Edition + +Author: Mary Hooper + +Release Date: July 27, 2009 [EBook #29519] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Lindy Walsh, S.D., and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + + + + + NELSON'S + + HOME COMFORTS. + + THIRTEENTH EDITION. + + REVISED AND ENLARGED + + BY MARY HOOPER, + + AUTHOR OF "LITTLE DINNERS," "EVERY-DAY MEALS," + "COOKERY FOR INVALIDS," _ETC. ETC._ + + [Illustration: Decoration] + + London: + G. NELSON, DALE & CO., LIMITED, + 14, DOWGATE HILL. + 1892. + + +ANY OF + +NELSON'S SPECIALITIES + +MENTIONED IN THIS BOOK + +_MAY BE OBTAINED FROM_ + + |--------------------------| + | | + | W. CHAPLIN & SONS, | + | 19 & 20, WATERLOO PLACE, | + | SOUTHAMPTON. | + | | + |PLEASE SEND, S.W.R. | + |--------------------------| + +They are also Sold by Grocers, Chemists, Italian Warehousemen, etc., +throughout the World. Should any difficulty be experienced in obtaining +them, kindly send the name and address of your Grocer, and we will at +once communicate with him. + +[Illustration: TRADE MARK.] + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +NELSON'S SPECIALITIES. + +*** + + PATENT OPAQUE GELATINE. + In packets, from 6d. to 7s. 6d. + + CITRIC ACID. + In 3d. packets. For use with the Gelatine. + + ESSENCE OF LEMON, ALMONDS, & VANILLA. + In graduated bottles, 8d. + + FAMILY JELLY BOXES. + 7s. 6d. each. + Containing sufficient of the above materials for 12 quarts of Jelly. + + BOTTLED WINE JELLIES (Concentrated). + CALF'S FOOT, LEMON, SHERRY, PORT, ORANGE, AND CHERRY. + Quarts, 2s. 6d.; Pints, 1s. 4d.; Half-pints, 9d. + + TABLET JELLIES. + ORANGE, LEMON, CALF'S FOOT, CHERRY, RASPBERRY, VANILLA, PORT, + SHERRY, ETC. Quarts, 9d.; Pints, 6d.; Half-pints, 3d. + + WINE TABLET JELLIES. + PORT, SHERRY, ORANGE. Pints only, 9d. + + PATENT REFINED ISINGLASS. + In 1s. packets. + + GELATINE LOZENGES. LIQUORICE LOZENGES. + In Ornamental Tins, 6d. + + JELLY-JUBES. + A most agreeable and nourishing Sweetmeat. + + EXTRACT OF MEAT. + FOR SOUPS, GRAVIES, ETC. In ounce packets, 4d. + + PURE BEEF TEA. + In half-pint packets, 6d. + + SOUPS. + BEEF AND CARROTS } + BEEF AND CELERY } In pint packets, + BEEF AND ONIONS } 6d. each. + MULLIGATAWNY } + BEEF, PEAS, AND VEGETABLES } In quart packets, + BEEF, LENTILS, AND VEGETABLES } 6d. each. + PENNY PACKETS OF SOUP for charitable purposes. + + EGG ALBUMEN. + For clearing Jelly or Soup. + In boxes containing 12 packets, 9d. per box. + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +LITTLE DINNERS, + +How to serve them with Elegance and Economy. + +BY MARY HOOPER. + +_Twenty-second Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._ + +"Shows us how to serve up a 'little dinner,' such as a philosopher might +offer a monarch--good, varied, in good taste, and cheap. Exactly what +the young English wife wishes to know, and what the ordinary cookery +book does not teach her."--_Queen._ + +*** + +EVERY-DAY MEALS, + +Being Economic and Wholesome Recipes for Plain Dinners, Breakfasts, +Luncheons, and Suppers. + +BY MARY HOOPER. + +_Eighth Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._ + +"Our already deep obligations to Miss Hooper are weightily increased by +this excellent and practical little book. The recipes for little dishes +are excellent, and so clearly worded that presumptuous man instantly +believes, on reading them, that he could descend into the kitchen and +'toss up' the little dishes without any difficulty."--_Spectator._ + +*** + +COOKERY FOR INVALIDS, + +For Persons of Delicate Digestion, and for Children. + +BY MARY HOOPER. + +_Sixth Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, price 2s. 6d._ + +"An epicure might be content with the little dishes provided by Miss +Hooper; but, at the same time, the volume fills the utmost extent of +promise held out in the title-page."--_Pall Mall Gazette._ + +*** + +LONDON: KEGAN PAUL, TRENCH, & CO. + + + + +CONTENTS. + +*** + + + PAGE + + PREFACE 7 + Bottled Jellies 7 + Tablet Jellies 8 + Lemon Sponge 9 + Citric Acid and Pure Essence of Lemon 9 + Pure Essence of Almonds and Vanilla 9 + Gelatine Lozenges 9 + Jelly-Jubes 10 + Licorice Lozenges 10 + Albumen 10 + Extract of Meat 10 + Soups 11 + Beef Tea 12 + New Zealand Mutton 12 + Tinned Meats 12 + Gelatine 13 + + SOUPS 14 + + LITTLE DISHES OF FISH 22 + + LITTLE DISHES OF MEAT 31 + + PUDDINGS 50 + + JELLIES 61 + + CREAMS 74 + + CAKES 85 + + BEVERAGES 93 + + MACARONI, ETC. 98 + + HINTS ON HOUSEKEEPING 105 + + NEW ZEALAND FROZEN MUTTON 119 + + INDEX 121 + + + + +NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS. + +*** + +PREFACE. + + +In presenting our friends and the public with the thirteenth edition of +our "Home Comforts," we have the pleasure to remark that so greatly has +the book been appreciated, that the large number of FIVE HUNDRED +THOUSAND copies has been called for. The value of the Jubilee Edition +was enhanced by some new recipes; these are repeated in the present +edition, to which, also, some valuable additions have been made. Since +the introduction of our Gelatine by the late Mr. G. Nelson, more than +fifty years ago, we have considerably enlarged our list of specialities, +and we have gratefully to acknowledge the public favour accorded to us. + +Among those of our preparations which have met with so much appreciation +and success, we would cite the following: + +NELSON'S BOTTLED JELLIES.--It is sometimes so difficult, if not +impossible, to have a first-class jelly made in private kitchens, that +we venture to think our BOTTLED JELLIES will be highly appreciated by +all housekeepers. It is not too much to say that a ready-made jelly of +the highest quality, and of the best and purest materials, requiring +only the addition of hot water, is now, for the first time, supplied. +Careful experiments, extending over a long period of time, have been +required to bring this excellent and very useful preparation to its +present state of perfection, and it is confidently asserted that no +home-made jelly can surpass it in purity, brilliancy, or delicacy of +flavour. All that is necessary to prepare the jelly for the table is to +dissolve it by placing the bottle in hot water, and then to add the +given quantity of water to bring it to a proper consistency. It is +allowed to stand until on the point of setting, and is then put into a +mould. + +NELSON'S CALF'S FOOT, LEMON, PORT, SHERRY, ORANGE, AND CHERRY JELLIES +are now to be had of all first-class grocers, and are put up in bottles +each containing sufficient of the concentrated preparation to make a +quart, pint, or half-pint. + +NELSON'S TABLET JELLIES are recommended for general use, are guaranteed +of the purest and best materials, and are flavoured with the finest +fruit essences. The Tablet Jellies are of so moderate a price as to be +within the reach of all classes, and can be used as an every-day +addition to the family bill of fare. They are not, however, intended as +a substitute for high-class jellies, whether bottled or home-made. + +The Tablet Jellies used as directed in the recipes make, in a few +minutes, creams of a most delicate kind, remarkable for smoothness of +texture and fine flavour. + +NELSON'S PORT, SHERRY, AND ORANGE WINE TABLET JELLIES have now been +added to the list. + +NELSON'S LEMON SPONGE, supplied in tins, is a delicious novelty, and +will be found to surpass any that can be made at home. + +NELSON'S CITRIC ACID AND PURE ESSENCE OF LEMON.--In order to save the +trouble of putting jelly through a strainer when required for invalids, +we have introduced our Citric Acid and Essence of Lemon, and by their +use a jelly clear enough for all ordinary purposes is made in a few +minutes. + +LEMONADE and other beverages can be quickly made, and with less expense +than by any other method, by using Nelson's Citric Acid and Essence of +Lemon, and for these recipes are given. Delicious beverages are also +made with Nelson's Bottled Jellies, see page 93. + +NELSON'S PURE ESSENCE OF ALMONDS AND VANILLA.--These Extracts, like the +Essence of Lemon, will be found of superior strength and flavour, and +specially adapted for the recipes in this book. + +NELSON'S GELATINE LOZENGES are not only a delicious sweetmeat, but most +useful as voice lozenges, or in cases of sore or irritable throat. The +flavour is very delicate and refreshing. Dissolved in water they make a +useful beverage, and also a jelly suitable for children and invalids. + +NELSON'S JELLY-JUBES will be found most agreeable and nourishing +sweetmeats, deliciously flavoured with fruit essences. They can be used +as cough lozenges, will be found soothing for delicate throats, are +useful for travellers, and may be freely given to children. + +NELSON'S LICORICE LOZENGES are not only a favourite sweetmeat, but in +cases of throat irritation and cough are found to be soothing and +curative. + +NELSON'S ALBUMEN is the white of eggs carefully dried and prepared, so +that it will keep for an indefinite length of time. It is useful for any +purpose to which the white of egg is applied, and answers well for +clearing soup and jelly. When required for use, the albumen is soaked in +cold water and whisked in the usual way. + +NELSON'S EXTRACT OF MEAT.--The numerous testimonials which have been +received as to the excellence of this preparation, as well as the great +and universal demand for it, have afforded the highest satisfaction to +us as the manufacturers, and have enabled us to offer it with increased +confidence to the public. It is invaluable, whether for making soup or +gravy, or for strengthening or giving flavour to many dishes; and it is +not only superior to, but far cheaper than, any similar preparation now +before the public. + +Now that clear soup is so constantly required, and a thing of every-day +use, Nelson's Extract of Meat will be found a great boon. With the +addition of a little vegetable flavouring, a packet of the Extract will +make a pint of soup as good and as fine as that produced, at much labour +and expense, from fresh meat. With a judicious use of the liquor derived +from boiling fowls, rabbits, and fresh meat, an endless variety of soup +may be made, by the addition of Nelson's Extract of Meat. Some recipes +are given by which first-class soups can be prepared in a short time, at +a very small cost, and with but little trouble. It may be as well to say +that soaking for a few minutes in cold water facilitates the solution of +the Extract of Meat. + +NELSON'S SOUPS are deserving of the attention of every housekeeper, for +they combine all the elements of good nourishment, have an excellent +flavour, both of meat and vegetables, are prepared by merely boiling the +contents of a packet for fifteen minutes, and are so cheap as to be +within everybody's means. Penny packets of these soups, for charitable +purposes, will be found most useful and nourishing. + +Those who have to cater for a family know how often a little soup will +make up a dinner that would otherwise be insufficient; yet because of +the time and trouble required in the preparation, it is impossible to +have it. In a case like this, or when a supplementary dish is +unexpectedly required, Nelson's Soups are most useful. Although these +Soups are all that can be desired, made with water according to the +directions given with each packet, they can be utilised with great +advantage for strengthening household stock. + +For instance, the liquor in which a leg of mutton has been boiled, or of +pork, if not too salt, can be at once, by using a packet or two of +Nelson's Soup, converted into a delicious and nourishing soup, and at a +cost surprisingly small. Or the bones of any joint can be made into +stock, and, after all the fat has been skimmed off, have a packet of +Nelson's Soup added, in the same manner as in the directions. + +NELSON'S BEEF TEA will be found of the highest value, supplying a cup of +unequalled nourishment, combining all the constituents of fresh beef. No +other preparation now before the public contains that most important +element, albumen, in a soluble form, as well as much of the fibrin of +the meat. This Beef Tea is also generally relished by invalids, and +merely requires to be dissolved in boiling water. + +NEW ZEALAND MUTTON.--For information respecting this meat, and the great +advantage as well as economy of its use, see page 119. + +NELSON'S TINNED MEATS, known as the "Tomoana Brand," are prepared at the +works of NELSON BROS., LIMITED, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand, from the +finest cattle of the country. Messrs. NELSON specially recommend their +"Pressed Mutton and Green Peas," "Haricot Mutton," and "Pressed Corned +Mutton." The "Stewed Kidneys" will be found of a quality superior to any +articles of the kind now in the market, while the price places them +within the reach of all classes of consumers. + +NELSON'S GELATINE having now been favourably known all over the world +for more than half a century, it is unnecessary to do more than observe +that our efforts are constantly directed to supplying a perfectly pure +article, always of the same strength and quality. When Russian isinglass +was first introduced into this country, the prejudices against its use +on the part of our great-grandmothers were violent and extreme; for +those worthy ladies would not believe that some unfamiliar substance, of +the origin of which they were either ignorant or doubtful, could form an +efficient substitute for the well-known calves' feet and cow-heels, from +which they had always been in the habit of making their jellies and +blanc-manges. By degrees, however, the Gelatine made its way, and at +length superseded the old system entirely; and its popularity is +demonstrated by the fact that the works at Emscote, near Warwick, cover +nearly five acres. + + * * * * * + +N.B.--It is necessary to call attention to the fact that in all the +following recipes in which Nelson's Gelatine and Specialities are used, +the quantities are calculated for _their manufactures only_, the quality +and strength of which may be relied upon for uniformity. + + + + +NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS. + +*** + +SOUPS. + +*** + + +BEEF AND ONION SOUP. + +A pint of very good soup can be made by following the directions which +accompany each tin of Nelson's Beef and Onion Soup, viz. to soak the +contents in a pint of cold water for fifteen minutes, then place over +the fire, stir, and boil for fifteen minutes. It is delicious when +combined with a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, thus producing a quart +of nutritious and appetising soup. + + +NELSON'S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. + +Soaked in cold water for a quarter of an hour, and then boiled for +fifteen minutes, Nelson's Mulligatawny Soup is very appetising and +delicious. It should be eaten with boiled rice; and for those who like +the soup even hotter than that in the above preparation, the +accompanying rice may be curried. In either case the rice should be +boiled so that each grain should be separate and distinct from the +rest. + + +BEEF, LENTIL, AND VEGETABLE SOUP. + +Pour one quart of boiling water upon the contents of a tin of Nelson's +Soup of the above title, stirring briskly. The water must be boiling. A +little seasoning of salt and pepper may be added for accustomed palates. +This soup is perfectly delicious if prepared as follows: Cut two peeled +onions into quarters, tie them in a muslin bag, and let the soup boil +for twenty minutes with them. Take out the bag before serving the soup. + + +BEEF, PEA, AND VEGETABLE SOUP. + +The directions printed on each packet of Nelson's Beef, Pea, and +Vegetable Soup produce a satisfactory soup, but even this may be +improved by the addition of the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of +Meat and a handful of freshly-gathered peas. It is perhaps not generally +known that pea-pods, usually thrown away as useless, impart a most +delicious flavour to soup if boiled fast for two or three hours in a +large saucepan, strained, and the liquor added to the soup, stock, or +beef tea. + + +BEEF TEA AS A SOLID. + +Soak the contents of a tin of Nelson's Beef Tea in a gill of water for +ten minutes. Add to this the third of an ounce packet of Nelson's +Gelatine, which has been soaked for two or three hours in half-a-pint of +cold water. Put the mixture in a stewpan, and stir until it reaches +boiling-point. Then put it into a mould which has been rinsed with cold +water. When thoroughly cold, this will turn out a most inviting and +extremely nutritious dish. + + +CLEAR VERMICELLI SOUP. + +Boil two minced onions in a quart of the liquor in which a leg of mutton +has been boiled, skim well, and when the vegetables are tender strain +them out. Pass the soup through a napkin, boil up, skim thoroughly, and +when clear add the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, +stirring until dissolved. + +Boil two ounces of vermicelli paste in a pint of water until tender. +Most shapes take about ten minutes. Take care that the water boils when +you throw in the paste, and that it continues to do so during all the +time of cooking, as that will keep the paste from sticking together. +When done, drain it in a strainer, put it in the tureen, and pour the +soup on to it. + + +SOUP JULIENNE. + +Wash and scrape a large carrot, cut away all the yellow parts from the +middle, and slice the red outside of it an inch in length, and the +eighth of an inch thick. Take an equal quantity of turnip and three +small onions, cut in a similar manner. Put them in a stewpan with two +ounces of butter and a pinch of powdered sugar; stir over the fire until +a nice brown colour, then add a quart of water and a teaspoonful of +salt, and let all simmer together gently for two hours. When done skim +the fat off very carefully, and ten minutes before serving add the +contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and a cabbage-lettuce cut +in shreds and blanched for a minute in boiling water; simmer for five +minutes and the soup will be ready. Many cooks, to save time and +trouble, use the preserved vegetables, which are to be had in great +perfection at all good Italian warehouses. + + +BROWN RABBIT SOUP CLEAR. + +Fry a quarter of a pound of onions a light brown; mince a turnip and +carrot and a little piece of celery; boil these until tender in three +pints of the liquor in which a rabbit has been boiled, taking care to +remove all scum as it rises; strain them out, and then pass the soup +through a napkin. The soup should be clear, or nearly so, but if it is +not, put it in a stewpan, boil and skim until bright; then throw in the +contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, soaked for a few minutes; +stir until dissolved; add pepper and salt to taste. + + +HARE SOUP. + +Half roast a hare, and, having cut away the meat in long slices from the +backbone, put it aside to make an _entree_. Fry four onions; take a +carrot, turnip, celery, a small quantity of thyme and parsley, +half-a-dozen peppercorns, a small blade of mace, some bacon-bones or a +slice of lean ham, with the body of the hare cut up into small pieces; +put all in two quarts of water with a little salt. When you have +skimmed the pot, cover close and allow it to boil gently for three +hours, then strain it; take off every particle of fat, and having +allowed the soup to boil up, add the contents of a tin of Nelson's +Extract of Meat, and thicken it with a dessertspoonful of potato-flour; +stir in two lumps of sugar, a glass of port wine, and season if +necessary. + + +MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. + +English cooks generally err in making both mulligatawny and curries too +hot. It is impossible to give the exact quantity of the powder, because +it varies so much in strength, and the cook must therefore be guided by +the quality of her material. Mulligatawny may be made cheaply, and be +delicious. The liquor in which meat or fowl has been boiled will make a +superior soup, and fish-liquor will answer well. Slice and fry brown +four onions, quarter, but do not peel, four sharp apples; boil them in +three pints of stock until tender, then rub through a sieve to a pulp. +Boil this up in the soup, skimming well; add the contents of a tin of +Nelson's Extract of Meat, and stir in two ounces of flour and the +curry-powder, mixed smooth in half-a-pint of milk. Any little pieces of +meat, fowl, game, or fish may be added as an improvement to the soup. +Just before serving taste that the soup is well-flavoured; add a little +lemon-juice or vinegar. + + +THIN MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. + +To a quart of the liquor in which a fresh haddock has been boiled, add +half-a-pint of water in which onions have been boiled. Stir into this, +after it has been skimmed, and whilst boiling, the contents of a tin of +Nelson's Extract of Meat, and a teaspoonful of curry-powder; let it boil +up; add the juice of half a lemon and serve. + + +BROWN ARTICHOKE SOUP. + +Wash, peel, and cut into slices about half-an-inch thick two pounds of +Jerusalem artichokes. Fry them in a little butter until brown; fry also +brown half-a-pound of sliced onions. Put these to boil in two quarts of +water with two turnips, a carrot sliced, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and +one of pepper. When the vegetables are tender drain the liquor, set it +aside to cool, and remove all fat. Pass the vegetables through a fine +sieve to a nice smooth _puree_. Those who possess a Kent's "triturating +strainer" will be able to do this much more satisfactorily, both as +regards time and results, than by the old way of rubbing through a +sieve. Put the liquor on to boil, dissolve in it--according to the +strength the soup is required to be--the contents of one or two tins of +Nelson's Extract of Meat, then add the vegetable _puree_, a lump or two +of sugar, and if required, salt and pepper. Let it boil up and serve. + + +TURTLE SOUP. + +This soup is so often required for invalids, as well as for the table, +that an easy and comparatively inexpensive method of preparing it cannot +fail to be acceptable. Nelson's Beef Tea or Extract of Meat will be used +instead of fresh beef, and Bellis's Sun-dried Turtle instead of live +turtle. If convenient it is desirable to soak the dried turtle all +night, but it can be used without doing so. Put it on to boil in the +water in which it was soaked, in the proportion of one quart with a +teaspoonful of salt to a quarter of a pound of the turtle. Add two or +three onions peeled and quartered, a small bit of mace and sliced +lemon-peel, and simmer gently for four or five hours, or until the +turtle is tender enough to divide easily with a spoon. Stock of any kind +may be used instead of water, and as the liquid boils away more should +be added, to keep the original quantity. Herbs for the proper flavouring +of the Turtle Soup are supplied by Bellis; these should be put in about +an hour before the turtle is finished, and be tied in muslin. When done +take out the turtle and divide it into neat little pieces; strain the +liquor in which it was cooked, and having boiled it up, stir in the +contents of two tins of Nelson's Extract of Meat, previously soaked for +a few minutes. Mix smooth in a gill of cold water a teaspoonful of +French potato-flour and of Vienna flour, stir into the soup, and when it +has thickened put in the turtle meat; let it get hot through, add a +wine-glassful of sherry, a dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, and salt and +pepper to taste, and serve at once. It is necessary to have "Bellis's +Sun-dried Turtle," imported by T. K. Bellis, Jeffrey's Square, St. Mary +Axe, London (sold in boxes), for this soup, because it is warranted +properly prepared. An inferior article, got up by negroes from turtle +found dead, is frequently sold at a low price; but it is unnecessary to +say it is not good or wholesome. + + +MOCK TURTLE SOUP. + +This, like real turtle soup, can be made of Nelson's Extract of Meat and +Bellis's Mock Turtle Meat. Boil the contents of a tin of this meat in +water or stock, salted and flavoured with vegetables and turtle herbs, +until tender. Finish with Nelson's Extract of Meat, and as directed for +turtle soup. + + +GRAVY. + +For roast meat, merely dissolve, after a little soaking, a tin of +Nelson's Extract of Meat in a pint of boiling water. For poultry or +game, fry two onions a light brown, mince a little carrot and turnip, +put in half a teaspoonful of herbs, tied in muslin, and boil until +tender, in a pint of water. Strain out the herbs, let the liquor boil +up, stir in the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat, and if +the gravy is required to be slightly thickened, add a small teaspoonful +of potato-flour mixed smooth in cold water. For cutlets or other dishes +requiring sharp sauce, make exactly as above, and just before serving +add a little of any good piquant sauce, or pickles minced finely. + + +GLAZE. + +Soak in a small jar the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat in +rather less than a gill of cold water. Set the jar over the fire in a +saucepan with boiling water, and let the extract simmer until dissolved. +This is useful for strengthening soups and gravies, and for glazing ham, +tongues, and other things. + + + + +LITTLE DISHES OF FISH. + +*** + + +The recipes we are now giving are suitable for dinner, supper, or +breakfast dishes, and will be found especially useful for the latter +meal, as there is nothing more desirable for breakfast than fish. We are +constantly told that it is not possible to have fresh fish for +breakfast, because it cannot be kept all night in the home larder. But +we must insist that there is no greater difficulty in keeping fish than +meat. Indeed, there is perhaps less difficulty, because fish can be left +lying in vinegar, if necessary, whereas in the case of meat it cannot +always be done. + +We will suppose that it is necessary to use strict economy. It is as +well to proceed on that supposition, because people can always be lavish +in their expenditure, whereas it is not so easy to provide for the +household at once well and economically. In many neighbourhoods fish is +sold much cheaper late in the day than in the morning, and in this case +the housekeeper who can buy overnight for the use of the next day has a +great advantage. Suppose you get the tail of a cod weighing three +pounds, as you frequently may, at a very small price in the evening, and +use a part of it stuffed and baked for supper, you can have a dish of +cutlets of the remainder for breakfast which will be very acceptable. We +do not mean a dish of the cold remains, but of a portion of the fish +kept uncooked, as it easily may be, as we have before said, by dipping +it in vinegar. Or, you get mackerel. Nothing is better than this fish +treated according to the recipe we give. Even so delicate a fish as +whiting may, by a little management with vinegar, be kept perfectly well +from one day to the other. Skinned whiting has very little flavour, and +although when skilfully cooked in the usual way it is useful by way of +change, the nourishment is much impaired by the removal of the skin. The +same remark applies to soles. By frying fish unskinned you get a dish of +a different character to that of skinned fish, and one of which the +appetite does not so soon tire. + + +FRIED SOLE. + +Soles weighing from three-quarters of a pound to a pound are the most +suitable size for frying whole. If it is desired to have the fish juicy +and with their full flavour, do not have them skinned. The black side of +the soles will not of course look so well, or be so crisp, as the white +side, but this is of little consequence compared to the nourishment +sacrificed in removing the skin. Have the soles scraped, wipe them, put +a tablespoonful of vinegar in a dish, pass the fish through it, and let +them lie an hour or more, if necessary all night, as the flavour is thus +improved. Run a knife along the backbone, which prevents it looking red +when cut. When ready to crumb the fish, lay them in a cloth and +thoroughly dry them. Beat up the yolk of an egg with a very little of +the white, which will be sufficient to egg a pair of soles; pass the +fish through the egg on both sides, hold it up to drain; have ready on a +plate a quarter of a pound of very fine dry crumbs, mixed with two +ounces of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of +pepper. Draw the fish over the crumbs, first on one side, then on the +other, and lay it gently on a dish, black side downwards, whilst you +prepare another. Some people succeed better in crumbing fish by sifting +the crumbs on to it through a very fine strainer after it is egged. When +the fish are ready put them, black side downwards, into the frying-pan +with plenty of fat, hot enough to brown a piece of bread +instantaneously, move the pan about gently, and when the soles have been +fried four minutes, put a strong cooking-fork into them near the head, +turn the white side downwards, and fry three minutes longer. Seven +minutes will be sufficient to fry a sole weighing three-quarters of a +pound, and a pair of this weight is sufficient for a party of six +persons. When the sole is done put the fork into the fish close to the +head, hold it up and let all the fat drain away, lay it on a sheet of +cap paper, and cover over with another sheet. Being thus quite freed +from grease, of a rich golden brown, crisp, and with an even surface, +lay the fish on the dish for serving, which should have on it either a +fish-paper or a napkin neatly folded. A well-fried sole is best eaten +without any sauce, but in deference to the national usage, butter sauce, +or melted butter, may be served with it. + + +FILLETED SOLES. + +It is better for the cook to fillet the soles, for there is often much +waste when it is done by the fishmonger. Having skinned the fish, with a +sharp knife make an incision down the spine-bone from the head to the +tail, and then along the fins; press the knife between the flesh and +the bone, bearing rather hard against the latter, and the fillets will +then be readily removed. These can now be dressed in a variety of ways; +perhaps the most delicate for breakfast is the following: + + +FILLETS OF SOLE SAUTES. + +Having dried the fillets, divide them into neat pieces two or three +inches long; dip them in the beaten yolk of egg, and then in seasoned +bread-crumbs. Make a little butter hot in the frying-pan, put in the +fillets and cook them slowly until brown on one side, then turn and +finish on the other. + + +FILLETS OF SOLE FRIED. + +These may either be rolled in one piece or divided into several, as in +the foregoing recipe. In either case egg and crumb them thoroughly, +place them in the wire-basket as you do them, which immerse in fat hot +enough to crisp bread instantly. When done, put the fillets on paper to +absorb any grease clinging to them, and serve as hot as possible. All +kinds of flat fish can be filleted and cooked by these recipes, and will +usually be found more economical than serving the fish whole. It is also +economical to fillet the tail-end of cod, salmon, and turbot, and either +fry or _saute_, as may be preferred. + + +FILLETS OF SOLE WITH LOBSTER. + +Thin and fillet a pair of soles, each weighing about a pound. Roll the +fillets, secure them with thread, which remove before serving; put them +in a stewpan with two ounces of sweet butter, cover closely, and allow +them to cook at a slow heat for twenty minutes or until tender, taking +care to keep them from getting brown. Prepare a sauce by boiling a +quarter of a pound of veal cutlet and the bones of the fish in +half-a-pint of water. When reduced to a gill, strain and take off all +fat from the sauce, thicken either with fine flour or "Rizine," put it +into the stewpan with the fish, and allow it to stand for a quarter of +an hour without boiling. Mince or cut in small pieces either the meat of +a small fresh lobster, or half a flat tin of the best brand of preserved +lobster. Make this hot by putting it in a jam pot standing in a saucepan +of boiling water. Take up the fish, carefully pour the sauce round, and +place on the top of each fillet some of the lobster. + + +BAKED WHITING. + +Small whiting answer well for this purpose. Tie them round, the tail to +the mouth, dip them in dissolved butter, lightly sprinkle with pepper +and salt, strew them with pale raspings, put them in a baking-dish with +a little butter, and bake in a quick oven for a quarter of an hour. + + +COD CUTLETS. + +A cheap and excellent dish is made by filleting the tail of cod, egging +and crumbing the pieces and frying them. Get about a pound and a half of +the tail of a fine cod; with a sharp knife divide the flesh from the +bone lengthways, cut it into neat pieces as nearly of a size as you can, +and flatten with a knife. Dip in egg, then in crumbs mixed with a little +flour, pepper, and salt. It is best to fry the cutlets in the +wire-basket in plenty of fat, but if this is not convenient they can be +done in the frying-pan; in any case, they should be done quickly, so +that they may get crisp. + + +FRIED HERRINGS. + +Take care the fish is well cleaned, without being split. Two or three +hours before cooking, lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper; when ready +to cook, wipe and flour the herrings. Have ready in the frying-pan as +much fat at the proper temperature as will cover the herrings. Cook +quickly at first, then moderate the heat slightly, and fry for ten to +twelve minutes, when they should be crisp and brown. When done, lay them +on a dish before the fire, in order that all fat and the fish-oil may +drain from them; with this precaution, fried herrings will be found more +digestible than otherwise they would be. + + +ROLLED HERRINGS. + +Choose the herrings with soft roes. Having scraped and washed them, cut +off the heads, split open, take out the roes, and cleanse the fish. Hold +one in the left hand, and, with thumb and finger of the right, press the +backbone to loosen it, then lay flat on the board and draw out the bone; +it will come out whole, leaving none behind. Dissolve a little fresh +butter, pass the inner side of the fish through it, sprinkle pepper and +salt lightly over, then roll it up tightly with the fin and tail +outwards, roll it in flour and sprinkle a little pepper and salt, then +put a small game skewer to keep the herring in shape. Have ready a good +quantity of boiling fat; it is best to do the herrings in a wire-basket, +and fry them quickly for ten minutes. Take them up and set them on a +plate before the fire, in order that all the fat may drain from them. +Pass the roes through flour mixed with a sufficient quantity of pepper +and salt, fry them brown, and garnish the fish with them and crisp +parsley. A difficulty is often felt in introducing herrings at dinner on +account of the number of small bones in them, but this is obviated by +the above method of dressing, as with care not one bone should be left +in. + + +GALANTINE OF FISH. + +Procure a fine large fresh haddock and two smaller, of which to make +forcemeat. Take off the head and open the large fish. Carefully press +the meat from the backbone, which must be removed without breaking the +skin; trim away the rough parts and small bones at the sides. Cover the +inside of the fish with a layer of forcemeat, and at intervals place +lengthways a few fillets of anchovies, between which sprinkle a little +lobster coral which has been passed through a wire sieve; fold the +haddock into its original form, and sew it up with a needle and strong +thread. Dip a cloth in hot water, wring it as dry as possible, butter +sufficient space to cover the fish, then fold it up, tie each end, and +put a small safety pin in the middle to keep it firm. Braise the +galantine for an hour in stock made from the bones of the fish. Let it +stay in the liquor until cold, when take it up and draw out the sewing +thread. Reduce and strain the liquor, mix with cream and aspic jelly, or +Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a +pint. When this sauce is on the point of setting, coat the galantine +with it, sprinkle with little passed lobster coral, dish in a bed of +shred salad, tastefully interspersed with beetroot cut in dice and +dipped in oil and vinegar. + +To make the forcemeat, pound the fillets of the small haddocks till +fine, then work in about half its quantity of bread panada, an ounce of +butter, and the fillets of two anchovies; season with salt and pepper, +mix in one egg and a yolk, pass through a wire sieve, and work into it a +gill of cream. + + +FILLETS OF SOLE EN ASPIC. + +Aspic jelly, or meat jelly, may be made very good, and at a moderate +cost, by boiling lean beef or veal in water with a little vegetable and +spice. To make it according to the standard recipes is so expensive and +tedious that few persons care to attempt it. The following directions +will enable a cook to make an excellent and clear aspic. + +Cut two pounds of lean beefsteak or veal cutlet into dice, put it on in +two quarts of cold water, and as soon as it boils, take off the scum as +it rises. Let it simmer gently for half-an-hour; then add four onions, a +turnip, carrot, small bundle of sweet herbs, blade of mace, half-a-dozen +white peppercorns, and when it has again boiled for an hour strain it +through a napkin. Let it stand until cold, remove all the fat, boil it +up, and to a quart of the liquor put an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, +previously soaked in cold water. Add salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper, +and when the jelly is cool stir in the whites and shells of two eggs +well beaten. Let the jelly boil briskly for two minutes, let it stand +off the fire for a few minutes, then strain through a jelly-bag and use +as directed. Take the fillets of a pair of large thick soles, cut them +into neat square pieces, leaving the trimmings for other dishes, and lay +them in vinegar with a little salt for an hour. As they must be kept +very white the best French vinegar should be used. Boil the fillets +gently in salted water, with a little vinegar, till done; take them up +and dry them on a cloth. Have ready some picked parsley and hard-boiled +eggs cut in quarters; arrange these neatly at the bottom of a plain +mould so as to form a pretty pattern. Pour in very gently enough jelly +to cover the first layer, let it stand until beginning to set, then put +another layer of fish, eggs, and parsley, then more jelly, and so on +until the mould is full. When done set the mould on ice, or allow it to +stand some hours in a cold place to get well set. Turn it out, ornament +with parsley, beetroot, and cut lemon. + + +COLLARED EELS. + +Clean and boil the eels in water highly seasoned with pepper and salt, +an onion, bay-leaf, a clove, and a little vinegar. When the eels are +done enough, slip out the bones and cut them up into pieces about two +inches long. Take the liquor in which the fish is boiled, strain it, let +it boil in the stewpan without the lid, skimming it until it becomes +clear. Dissolve a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine to each +half-pint of the fish gravy, and boil together for a minute, let it then +stand until cool. Arrange the pieces of eel tastefully in a plain mould +with small sprigs of curled parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs, and, +if you like, a fillet or two of anchovies cut up into dice. When all the +fish is thus arranged in the mould, pour the jelly in very gently, a +tablespoonful at a time, in order not to disturb the solid material. Let +the mould stand in cold water for seven or eight hours, when it can be +turned out. Ornament with parsley, lemon, and beetroot. + + + + +LITTLE DISHES OF MEAT. + +*** + + +In this chapter a number of useful and inexpensive dishes are given, +which will serve either as breakfast dishes, _entrees_, or for invalids, +and which may, in the hands of an intelligent cook, serve as models for +many others. As will be seen, it is not so much a question of expense to +provide these little tasty dishes as of management. In all the following +recipes for little dishes of mutton, it will be found a great advantage +to use New Zealand Meat. + +A good cook will never be embarrassed by having too much cold meat on +hand, because she will be able by her skill so to vary the dishes that +the appetites of those for whom she caters will never tire of it. Even a +small piece of the loin of mutton may be served in half-a-dozen +different ways, and be relished by those who are tired of the +mutton-chop or the plain roast. + + +MUTTON CUTLETS. + +Taken from the neck, mutton cutlets are expensive, but those from the +loin will be found not only convenient, but to answer well at a smaller +cost. + +First remove the under-cut or fillet from about two pounds of the best +end of a loin of mutton, cut off the flap, which will be useful for +stewing, and it is especially good eaten cold, and then remove the meat +from the bones in one piece, which divide with the fillet into cutlets +about half-an-inch thick. Egg them over and dip them in well-seasoned +bread-crumbs, fry them until a nice brown, and serve with gravy made +from the bones and an onion. + +This way of cooking the loin is much more economical than in chops, +because with them the bones and flap are wasted, whereas in cutlets all +is used up. + +To stew the flap, put it in a stewpan, the fat downwards, sprinkle +pepper and salt, and slice an onion or two over, and set it to fry +gently in its own fat for an hour. Take up the meat, and put half-a-pint +of cold water to the fat, which, when it has risen in a solid cake, take +off, mix a little flour with the gravy which will be found beneath the +fat, add pepper, salt, and some cooked potatoes cut in slices. Cut the +meat into neat squares; let it simmer gently in the gravy with the +potatoes for an hour. + + +ROULADES OF MUTTON. + +Remove the fillet from a fine loin of mutton, trim away every particle +of skin, fat, and gristle. Flatten the fillet with a cutlet-bat, and cut +it lengthways into slices as thin as possible; divide these into neat +pieces about three inches long. Sprinkle each with pepper, salt, and +finely-chopped parsley, roll them up tightly, then dip in beaten egg, +and afterwards in finely-sifted bread-crumbs mixed with an equal +quantity of flour and highly seasoned with pepper and salt. As each +roulade is thus prepared place it on a game-skewer, three or four on +each skewer. Dissolve an ounce of butter in a small frying-pan, and +cook the roulades in it. + + +MUTTON COLLOPS. + +Cut neat thin slices from a leg of either roasted or boiled mutton, dip +them in yolk of egg and in fine dry bread-crumbs to which a little +flour, pepper, and salt have been added. Heat enough butter in a small +frying-pan to just cover the bottom, put in the slices of mutton and +cook them very slowly, first on one side then on the other, until they +are brown. Garnish the dish on which the mutton is served with some +fried potatoes or potato chips. + + +MUTTON SAUTE. + +Put a little butter or bacon fat in the frying-pan, sprinkle pepper and +salt over slices of cold mutton, and let them get hot very slowly. The +mutton must be frequently turned, and never allowed to fry. When turned +in the pan for the last time sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the +upper side; remove the slices carefully on to a hot dish, pour the fat +in the pan over, and serve. + + +COLD MUTTON POTTED. + +Cut up the mutton, being careful to free it from all sinew and skin; +chop or pound it with half its weight of cooked bacon until it is as +fine as desired. Season with a little pepper, salt, and allspice, put it +into a jar, which set in a saucepan of water over the fire until the +meat is hot through. When taken up stir occasionally until cool, then +press it into little pots, and pour clarified butter or mutton fat over +the top. If liked, a little essence of anchovy may be added to the +seasoning. + + +MUTTON PIES. + +Mince a quarter of a pound of underdone mutton, taking care to have it +free from skin and fat. Mix with it a tablespoonful of rich gravy--that +which is found under a cake of dripping from a joint is particularly +suitable for this purpose--add a few drops of essence of anchovy, a +pinch of cayenne pepper, and a small teaspoonful of minced parsley. If +necessary add salt. + +Line four patty-pans with puff paste, divide the mutton into equal +portions and put it into the pans, cover each with a lid of paste, and +bake in a quick oven for half-an-hour. + + +OX BRAIN. + +Having carefully washed the brain, boil it very fast, in order to harden +it, in well-seasoned gravy. When it is done, take it out of the gravy +and set it aside until cold. Cut it either in slices or in halves, dip +each piece in egg, then in bread-crumbs well seasoned with dried and +sifted parsley, pepper, and salt, fry them in a little butter until +brown. The gravy having become cold, take off the fat, and boil it in a +stewpan without a lid until it is reduced to a small quantity; pour it +round the brain, and serve. + + +BRAIN FRITTERS. + +Carefully wash an ox brain, and boil it for a quarter of an hour in +well-seasoned stock. When the brain is cold, cut it into slices as thin +as possible, dip each of them in batter, drop them as you do them into a +stewpan half-full of fat at a temperature of 430 deg., or that which +will brown instantly a piece of bread dipped into it. To make the +batter, mix two large tablespoonfuls of fine flour with four of cold +water, stir in a tablespoonful of dissolved butter or of fine oil, the +yolk of an egg, and a pinch of salt and pepper; when ready to use, beat +the white of the egg to a strong froth, and mix with it. Do not fry more +than two fritters at once; as you take them up, throw them on paper to +absorb any grease clinging to them, serve on a napkin or ornamental +dish-paper. If this recipe is closely followed, the fritters will be +light, crisp, delicate morsels, melting in the mouth, and form besides a +very pretty dish. Garnish with fried parsley; take care the parsley is +thoroughly dry, put it into a small frying-basket, and immerse it for an +instant in the fat in which the fritters are to be cooked. Turn it out +on paper, dry, and serve. + + +MARROW TOAST. + +Let the butcher break up a marrow-bone. Take out the marrow in as large +pieces as possible, and put them into a stewpan with a little boiling +water, rather highly salted. When the marrow has boiled for a minute, +drain the water away through a fine strainer. Have ready a slice of +lightly-toasted bread, place the marrow on it, and put it into a Dutch +oven before the fire for five minutes, or until it is done. Sprinkle +over it a little pepper and salt, and a small teaspoonful of parsley, +chopped fine. The toast must be served very hot. + + +CHICKEN IN ASPIC JELLY. + +Cut the white part of a cold boiled chicken, and as many similar pieces +of cold ham, into neat rounds, not larger than a florin. Run a little +aspic jelly into a fancy border mould, allow it to set, and arrange a +decoration of boiled carrot and white savoury custard cut crescent +shape, dipping each piece in melted aspic. Pour in a very little more +jelly, and when it is set place the chicken and ham round alternately, +with a sprig of chervil, or small salad, here and there. Put in a very +small quantity of aspic to keep this in place, then, when nearly set, +sufficient to cover it. Arrange another layer, this time first of ham +then of chicken, fix them in the same way, and fill up the mould with +aspic jelly. When the dish is turned out fill the centre with cold green +peas, nicely seasoned, and garnish round with chopped aspic and little +stars of savoury custard. To make this, soak a quarter of an ounce of +Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of milk, dissolve it over the fire, and stir +in a gill of thick cream, season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt, +and, if liked, a little grate of nutmeg. Pour the custard on to a large +dish, and when cold cut it into the required shapes. + + +VEAL CUTLETS IN WHITE SAUCE. + +Cut six or seven cutlets, about half-an-inch thick, from a neck of veal, +braise them in half-a-pint of good white stock with an onion, a small +bunch of herbs, a bacon bone, and two or three peppercorns, until they +are done. Let the cutlets get cool in the liquor, then drain them. +Strain the liquor and make a white sauce with it; add a tablespoonful of +thick cream and a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved in +a gill of milk; season with salt and cayenne pepper, stirring +occasionally until quite cold. Dip the cutlets in, smoothly coating one +side, and before the sauce sets decorate them with very narrow strips of +truffle in the form of a star. Cut as many pieces of cooked tongue or +ham as there are cutlets, dish them alternately in a circle on a border +of aspic, fill the centre with a salad composed of all kinds of cold +cooked vegetables, cut with a pea-shaped cutter and seasoned with oil, +vinegar, pepper, and salt. Garnish with aspic jelly cut lozenge shape +and sprigs of chervil. + + +KIDNEYS SAUTES. + +Like many other articles of diet, kidneys within the last ten years have +been doubled in price, and are so scarce as to be regarded as luxuries. +The method of cooking them generally in use is extravagant, and renders +them tasteless and indigestible. Kidneys should never be cooked +rapidly, and those persons who cannot eat them slightly underdone should +forego them. One kidney dressed as directed in the following recipe will +go as far as two cooked in the ordinary manner--an instance, if one were +needed, of the economy of well-prepared food. + +Choose fine large kidneys, skin them and cut each the round way into +thin slices: each kidney should yield from ten to twelve slices. Have +ready a tablespoonful of flour highly seasoned with pepper and salt and +well mixed together; dip each piece of kidney in it. Cut some neat thin +squares of streaked bacon, fry them _very slowly_ in a little butter; +when done, put them on the dish for serving, and keep hot whilst you +_saute_ the kidneys, which put into the fat the bacon was cooked in. In +about a minute the gravy will begin to rise on the upper side, then turn +the kidneys and let them finish cooking slowly; when they are done, as +they will be in three to four minutes, the gravy will again begin to +rise on the side which is uppermost. Put the kidneys on the dish with +the bacon, and pour over them a spoonful or two of plain beef gravy, or +water thickened with a little flour, boiled and mixed with the fat and +gravy from the kidneys in the frying-pan. If there is too much fat in +the pan, pour it away before boiling up the gravy. Serve the kidneys on +a hot-water dish. + + +TINNED KIDNEYS WITH MUSHROOMS. + +(_Tomoana Brand._) + +Dry a half-tin of champignons in a cloth, or, if convenient, prepare a +similar quantity of fresh button mushrooms; add to these a few pieces +of dried mushrooms, previously soaked for ten minutes in tepid water, +put them into a stewpan with a slice of butter, and stir constantly for +six minutes, then add two or three kidneys cut in small neat pieces, in +the shape of dice is best, and continue stirring until the kidneys are +hot through, taking care to do them slowly; at the last moment season +with pepper and salt, and serve very hot. Garnish the dish with fried +sippets of bread. + + +KIDNEYS WITH PICCALILLI SAUCE. + +(_Tomoana Brand._) + +Take the kidneys out of the gravy, and cut them into six slices. Mix a +small teaspoonful of curry powder with three teaspoonfuls of fine flour +and a small pinch of salt. Dip each slice in this mixture, and when all +are done put them in the frying-pan with a little butter, and let them +get slowly hot through. When done, put the kidneys in the centre of a +hot dish, and pour round them a sauce made as follows: Boil up the gravy +of the kidneys, and stir into it sufficient minced piccalilli pickles to +make it quite thick, add a teaspoonful of flour to a tablespoonful of +the piccalilli vinegar, stir into the sauce, and when all has boiled up +together, pour it round the kidneys. + + +BROILED KIDNEYS. + +These are quite an epicure's dish, and care must be taken to cook them +slowly. Having skinned the kidneys (they must not be split or cut) dip +them for a moment in boiling fat, place them on the gridiron over a +slow fire, turning them every minute. They will take ten to fifteen +minutes to cook, and will be done as soon as the gravy begins to run. +Place them on a hot dish rubbed over with butter, salt and pepper them +rather highly. It must be understood that kidneys thus cooked ought to +have the gravy in them, and that when they are cut at table it should +run from them freely and in abundance. + + +LAMB'S FRY. + +A really proper fry should consist not only of sweetbreads and liver, +but of the heart, melt, brains, frill, and kidneys, each of which +requires a different treatment. It is quite as easy to cook a fry +properly as to flour and fry it hard and over-brown, as is too +frequently done. Trim the sweetbreads neatly, and simmer them for a +quarter of an hour in good white stock with an onion. When they are done +take them up and put the brains in the gravy, allowing them to boil as +fast as possible in order to harden them; let them get cold, then cut +into slices, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry with the sweetbread in a +little butter. After the brains are taken out of the gravy, put the +slices of heart and melt in, and let them stew slowly until tender. When +they are ready, flour them, and fry with the liver and frill until +brown. Lastly, put the kidneys, cut in slices, into the pan, and very +gently fry for about a minute. Shake a little flour onto the pan, stir +it about until it begins to brown; then pour on to it the gravy, in +which the sweetbreads, etc., were stewed, see it is nicely seasoned, +and pour round the fry, which should be neatly arranged in the centre of +the dish. Garnish with fried parsley. + + +LAMB'S SWEETBREADS. + +These make an admirable breakfast dish, and can be partly prepared +over-night. Trim and wash the sweetbreads, put them into a saucepan with +sufficient well-flavoured stock to cover them, a minced onion and a +sprig of lemon-thyme; boil gently for fifteen minutes, or a little +longer if necessary. Take them up, drain, dip in egg and finely-sifted +bread-crumbs mixed with a little flour, pepper, and salt. Fry very +carefully, so as not to make it brown or hard, some small slices of +bacon, keep warm whilst you fry the sweetbreads in the fat which has run +from it, adding, if required, a little piece of butter or lard. For a +breakfast dish, the sweetbreads should be served without gravy, but if +for an _entree_ the liquor in which they were stewed, with slight +additions and a little thickening, can be poured round them in the dish. +Calves' sweetbreads are prepared in the same manner as the above, and +can either be fried, finished in a Dutch oven, or served white, with +parsley and butter, or white sauce. + + +VEAL A LA CASSEROLE. + +For this dish a piece of the fillet about three inches thick will be +required, and weighing from two to three pounds. It should be cut from +one side of the leg, without bone; but sometimes butchers object to +give it, as cutting in this manner interferes with cutlets. In such a +case a piece must be chosen near the knuckle, and the bone be taken out +before cooking. For a larger party, a thick slice of the fillet, +weighing about four pounds, will be found advantageous. + +With a piece of tape tie the veal into a round shape, flour, and put it +into a stewpan with a small piece of butter, fry until it becomes brown +on all sides. Then put half a pint of good gravy, nicely seasoned with +pepper and salt, cover the stewpan closely, and set it on the stove to +cook very slowly for at least four hours. When done, the veal will be +exquisitely tender, full of flavour, but not the least ragged. Take the +meat up, and keep hot whilst the gravy is reduced, by boiling without +the lid of the saucepan, to a rich glaze, which pour over the meat and +serve. + + +BROWN FRICASSEE OF CHICKEN. + +This is a brown fricassee of chicken, and is an excellent dish. No doubt +the reason it is so seldom given is that, although easy enough to do, it +requires care and attention in finishing it. Many of the best cooks, in +the preparation of chickens for fricassee, cut them up before cooking, +but we prefer to boil them whole, and afterwards to divide them, as the +flesh thus is less apt to shrink and get dry. The chicken can be slowly +boiled in plain water, with salt and onions, or, as is much better, in +white broth of any kind. When the chicken is tender cut it up; take the +back, and the skin, pinions of the wings, and pieces which do not seem +nice enough for a superior dish, and boil them in a quart of the liquor +in which it was boiled. Add mushroom trimmings, onions, and a sprig of +thyme; boil down to one-half, then strain, take off all fat, and stir +over the fire with the yolk of two eggs and an ounce of fine flour until +thickened. Dip each piece of chicken in some of this sauce, and when +they are cold pass them through fine bread-crumbs, then in the yolk of +egg, and crumb again. Fry carefully in hot fat. Dish the chicken with a +border of fried parsley, and the remainder of the gravy poured round the +dish. This dish is generally prepared by French cooks by frying the +chicken in oil, and seasoning with garlic; but unless the taste of the +guests is well known, it is safer to follow the above recipe. + + +CHICKEN SAUTE. + +Put any of the meat of the breast or of the wings without bone into a +frying-pan with a little fresh butter or bacon fat. Cook them very +slowly, turning repeatedly; if the meat has not been previously cooked +it will take ten minutes, and five minutes if a _rechauffe_. Sprinkle +with pepper, and serve with mushrooms or broiled bacon. The legs of +cooked chickens are excellent _sautes_, but they should be boned before +they are put into the pan. + + +POTATO HASH. + +Put some cold potatoes chopped into the frying-pan with a little fat, +stir them about for five minutes, then add to them an equal quantity of +cold meat, cut into neat little squares, season nicely with pepper and +salt, fry gently, stirring all the time, until thoroughly hot through. + + +DRY CURRY. + +Fry a minced onion in butter until lightly browned, cut up the flesh of +two cooked chicken legs, or any other tender meat, into dice, mix this +with the onions, and stir them together over the fire until the meat is +hot through; sprinkle over it about a small teaspoonful of curry-powder, +and salt to taste. Having thoroughly mixed the meat with the +curry-powder, pour over it a tablespoonful of milk or cream, and stir +over the fire until the moisture has dried up. Celery salt may be used +instead of plain salt, and some persons add a few drops of lemon-juice +when the curry is finished. + + +CROQUETTES. + +Croquettes of all kinds, fish, game, poultry or any delicate meats, can +be successfully made on the following model: Whatever material is used +must be finely minced or pounded. Care is required in making the sauce, +if it is too thin it is difficult to mould the croquettes, and ice will +be required to set it. Croquettes of game without any flavouring, except +a little salt and cayenne, are generally acceptable as a breakfast dish. +Preserved lobster makes very good croquettes for an _entree_, and small +scraps of any kind can thus be made into a very good dish. Put one ounce +of fine flour into a stewpan with half a gill of cold water, stir this +over a slow fire very rapidly until it forms a paste, then add one ounce +of butter, and stir until well incorporated. Mix in a small teaspoonful +of essence of shrimps or anchovies, with a pinch of salt and pepper. +Take the stewpan off the fire, and stir the yolk of an egg briskly into +the sauce; thoroughly mix it with half-a-pound of pounded fish or meat, +spread it out on a plate until it is cool. Flour your hands, take a +small piece of the croquette mixture, roll into a ball or into the shape +of a cork, then pass it through very finely-sifted and dried +bread-crumbs. Repeat the process until all the mixture is used; put the +croquettes as you do them into a wire frying-basket, which shake very +gently, when all are placed in it, in order to free them from +superfluous crumbs. Have ready a stewpan half-full of boiling fat, dip +the basket in, gently moving it about, and taking care the croquettes +are covered with fat. In about a minute they will become a delicate +brown, and will then be done. Turn them on a paper to absorb any +superfluous fat, serve them on a napkin or ornamental dish paper. No +more croquettes than will lie on the bottom of the basket without +touching each other should be fried at once. + + +MEAT CAKES A L'ITALIENNE. + +Mix very fine any kind of cold meat or chicken, taking care to have it +free from skin and gristle, add to it a quarter of its weight of sifted +bread-crumbs, a few drops of essence of anchovy, a little parsley, +pepper and salt, and sufficient egg to moisten the whole. Flour your +hands, roll the meat into little cakes about the size of a half-crown +piece, then flatten the cakes with the back of a spoon, dip them in egg +and fine bread-crumbs, and fry them in a little butter until lightly +browned on the outside. Put them on a hot dish and garnish with boiled +Italian paste. + + +RAISED PORK PIE. + +Take a pound of meat, fat and lean, from the chump end of a fine +fore-loin of pork, cut it into neat dice, mix a tablespoonful of water +with it, and season with a large teaspoonful of salt and a small one of +black pepper. To make the crust, boil a quarter of a pound of lard or +clarified dripping in a gill and a half of water, and pour it hot on to +one pound of flour, to which a good pinch of salt has been added. Mix +into a stiff paste, pinch off enough of it to make the lid, and keep it +hot. Flour your board and work the paste into a ball, then with the +knuckles of your right hand press a hole in the centre, and mould the +paste into a round or oval shape, taking care to keep it a proper +thickness. Having put in the meat, join the lid to the pie, which raise +lightly with both hands so as to keep it a good high shape, cut round +the edge with a sharp knife, and make the trimmings into leaves to +ornament the lid; and having placed these on, with a rose in the centre, +put the pie on a floured baking-sheet and brush it over with yolk of +egg. + +The crust of the pie should be cool and set before putting it into the +oven, which should be a moderate heat. When the gravy boils out the pie +is done. An hour and a half will bake a pie of this size. Make a little +gravy with the bones and trimmings of the pork, and to half-a-pint of it +add a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and nicely season with +pepper and salt. When the pie is cold remove the rose from the top, make +a little hole, insert a small funnel, and pour in as much gravy as the +pie will hold. Replace the rose on the top, and put the pie on a dish +with a cut paper. + +If preferred, the pie can be made in a tin mould; but the crust is nicer +raised by the hand. A great point to observe is to begin moulding the +crust whilst it is hot, and to get it finished as quickly as possible. + + +VEAL AND HAM PIE. + +Prepare the crust as for a pork pie. Cut a pound of veal cutlet and a +quarter of a pound of ham into dice, season with a teaspoonful of salt +and another of black pepper, put the meat into the crust, and finish as +for pork pie. Add a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine--previously +soaked in cold water, and then dissolved--to a teacupful of gravy made +from the veal trimmings. + + +PORK SAUSAGES. + +When a pig is cut up in the country, sausages are usually made of the +trimmings; but when the meat has to be bought, the chump-end of a +fore-loin will be found to answer best. The fine well-fed meat of a +full-grown pig, known in London as "hog-meat," is every way preferable +to that called "dairy-fed pork." The fat should be nearly in equal +proportion to the lean, but of course this matter must be arranged to +suit the taste of those who will eat the sausages. If young pork is +used, remove the skin as thinly as you can--it is useful for various +purposes--and then with a sharp knife cut all the flesh from the bones, +take away all sinew and gristle, and cut the fat and lean into strips. +Some mincing-machines require the meat longer than others; for Kent's +Combination, cut it into pieces about an inch long and half-an-inch +thick. To each pound of meat put half a gill of gravy made from the +bones, or water will do; then mix equally with it two ounces of +bread-crumbs, a large teaspoonful of salt, a small one of black pepper, +dried sage, and a pinch of allspice. This seasoning should be well mixed +with the bread, as the meat will then be flavoured properly throughout +the mass. Arrange the skin on the filler, tie it at the end, put the +meat, a little at a time, into the hopper, turn the handle of the +machine briskly, and take care the skin is only lightly filled. When the +sausages are made, tie the skin at the other end, pinch them into shape, +and then loop them by passing one through another, giving a twist to +each as you do them. Sausage-skins, especially if preserved, should be +well soaked before using, or they may make the sausages too salt. It is +a good plan to put the skin on the water-tap and allow the water to run +through it, as thus it will be well washed on the inside. Fifteen to +twenty minutes should be allowed for frying sausages, and when done they +should be nicely browned. A little butter or lard is best for frying, +and some pieces of light bread may be fried in it when the sausages are +done, and placed round the dish by way of garnish. Cooks cannot do +better than remember Dr. Kitchener's directions for frying sausages. +After saying, "They are best when quite fresh made," he adds: "put a bit +of butter or dripping into a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is melted, +before it gets hot, put in the sausages, and shake the pan for a minute, +and keep turning them. Be careful not to break or prick them in so +doing. Fry them over a very slow fire till they are nicely browned on +all sides. The secret of frying sausages is to let them get hot very +gradually; they then will not break if they are not stale. The common +practice to prevent them bursting is to prick them with a fork, but this +lets the gravy out." + + + + +PUDDINGS. + +*** + + +CUSTARD PUDDING. + +We give this pudding first because it affords an opportunity for giving +hints on making milk puddings generally, and because, properly made, +there is no more delicious pudding than this. It is besides most useful +and nutritious, not only for the dinner of healthy people, but for +children and invalids. But few cooks, however, make it properly; as a +rule too many eggs are used, to which the milk is added cold, and the +pudding is baked in a quick oven. The consequence is that the pudding +curdles and comes to table swimming in whey; or, even if this does not +happen, the custard is full of holes and is tough. + +In the first place, milk for all puddings with eggs should be poured on +to the eggs boiling hot; in the next, the baking must be very slowly +done, if possible, as directed in the recipe; the dish containing the +pudding to be placed in another half-full of water. This, of course, +prevents the baking proceeding too rapidly, and also prevents the +pudding acquiring a sort of burned greasy flavour, which is injurious +for invalids. Lastly, too many eggs should not be used; the quantity +given, two to the pint of milk, is in all cases quite sufficient, and +will make a fine rich custard. + +We never knew a pudding curdle, even with London milk a day old, if all +these directions were observed; but it is almost needless to say, that +the pudding made with new rich milk is much finer than one of inferior +milk. + +Boil a pint and a half of milk with two ounces of lump sugar, or rather +more if a sweet pudding is liked, and pour it boiling hot on three eggs +lightly beaten--that is, just sufficiently so to mix whites and yolks. +Flavour the custard with nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, or anything which +may be preferred and pour it into a tart-dish. Place this dish in +another three-parts full of boiling water, and bake slowly for forty +minutes, or until the custard is firm. There is no need to butter the +dish if the pudding is baked as directed. + + +SOUFFLE PUDDING. + +This is a delicious pudding, and to insure its success great care and +exactness are required. In the first place, to avoid failure it is +necessary that the butter, flour, sugar, and milk, should be stirred +long enough over a moderate fire to make a stiff paste, because if this +is thin the eggs will separate, and the pudding when done resemble a +batter with froth on the top. + +Before beginning to make the pudding, prepare a pint tin by buttering it +inside and fastening round it with string on the outside a buttered band +of writing-paper, which will stand two inches above the tin and prevent +the pudding running over as it rises. Melt an ounce of butter in a +stewpan, add one ounce of sifted sugar, stir in an ounce and a half of +Vienna flour, mix well together, add a gill of milk, and stir over the +fire with a wooden spoon until it boils and is thick. Take the stewpan +off the fire, beat up the yolks of three eggs with half a teaspoonful of +extract of vanilla, and stir a little at a time into the paste, to +insure both being thoroughly mixed together. Put a small pinch of salt +to the whites of four eggs, whip them as stiff as possible, and stir +lightly into the pudding, which pour immediately into the prepared +mould. Have ready a saucepan with enough boiling water to reach a little +way up the tin, which is best placed on a trivet, so that the water +cannot touch the paper band. Let the pudding steam very gently for +twenty minutes, or until it is firm in the middle, and will turn out. + +For sauce, boil two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam in a gill of water, +with two ounces of lump sugar, stir in a wine-glassful of sherry, add a +few drops of Nelson's Vanilla Flavouring, pour over the pudding and +serve. + + +OMELET SOUFFLE. + +Put the yolks of two eggs into a basin with an ounce of sifted sugar and +a few drops of Nelson's Vanilla Essence; beat the yolks and sugar +together for six minutes, or until the mixture becomes thick. Then whip +the whites very stiff, so that they will turn out of the basin like a +jelly. Mix the yolks and whites lightly together, have ready an ounce of +butter dissolved in the omelet-pan, pour in the eggs, hold this pan over +a slow fire for two minutes, then put the frying-pan into a quick oven +and bake until the omelet has risen; four minutes ought to be +sufficient to finish the omelet in the oven; when done, slide it on to a +warm dish, double it, sift sugar over, and serve instantly. + + +SPONGE SOUFFLE. + +Cover the bottom of a tart-dish with sponge-cakes, pour over a little +brandy and sherry; put in a moderate oven until hot, then pour on the +cakes an egg whip made of two packets of Nelson's Albumen, beaten to a +strong froth with a little sugar. Bake for a quarter of an hour in a +slow oven. + + +CABINET PUDDING. + +Butter very thickly a pint pudding-basin, and cover it neatly with +stoned muscatel raisins, the outer side of them being kept to the basin. +Lightly fill up the basin with alternate layers of sponge-cake and +ratafias, and when ready to steam the pudding, pour by degrees over the +cake a custard made of half-a-pint of boiling milk, an egg, three lumps +of sugar, a tablespoonful of brandy, and a little lemon flavouring. +Cover the basin with a paper cap and steam or boil gently for +three-quarters of an hour. Great care should be taken not to boil +puddings of this class fast, as it renders them tough and flavourless. + + +BRANDY SAUCE. + +Mix a tablespoonful of fine flour with a gill of cold water, put it into +a gill of boiling water, and, having stirred over the fire until it is +thick, add the yolk of an egg. Continue stirring for five minutes, and +sweeten with two ounces of castor sugar. Mix a wine-glass of brandy with +two tablespoonfuls of sherry, stir it into the sauce, and pour it round +the pudding. If liked, a grate of nutmeg may be added to the sauce, and, +if required to be rich, an ounce of butter may be stirred in before the +brandy. + + +WARWICKSHIRE PUDDING. + +Butter a pint-and-a-half tart-dish, lay in it a layer of light bread, +cut thin, on this sprinkle a portion of two ounces of shred suet, and of +one ounce of lemon candied-peel, chopped very fine. Fill the dish +lightly with layers of bread, sprinkling over each a little of the suet +and peel. + +Boil a pint of milk with two ounces of sugar, pour it on two eggs, +beaten for a minute, and add it to the pudding just before putting it +into the oven; a little of Nelson's Essence of Lemon or Almonds may be +added to the custard. Bake the pudding in a very slow oven for an hour. + + +VANILLA RUSK PUDDING. + +Dissolve, but do not oil, an ounce of butter, mix in a quarter of a +pound of sifted sugar, stir over the fire for a few minutes, add an egg +well beaten, and half a teaspoonful of Nelson's Vanilla Extract, or as +much as will give a good flavour to the paste, which continue stirring +until it gets thick. + +Spread four slices of rusk with the vanilla paste, put them in a +buttered tart-dish. Boil half-a-pint of new milk, pour it on to an egg +well beaten, then add it to the rusk, and put the pudding to bake in a +slow oven for an hour. Turn out when done, and sift sugar over the +pudding. If a superior pudding is desired, boil a tablespoonful of +apricot jam in a teacupful of plain sugar syrup, add a little vanilla +flavouring, and pour over the pudding at the moment of serving. + + +JUBILEE PUDDING. + +Pour a pint of boiling milk on two ounces of Rizine, stir over the fire +for ten minutes, add half an ounce of butter, the yolks of two eggs, an +ounce of castor sugar, and six drops of Nelson's Essence of Almonds. Put +the pudding into a buttered pie-dish, and bake in a moderate oven for a +quarter of an hour. When taken from the oven, spread over it a thin +layer of apricot jam, and on this the whites of the eggs beaten to a +strong froth, with half an ounce of castor sugar. Return the pudding to +a slow oven for about four minutes, in order to set the meringue. + + +NATAL PUDDING. + +Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water +until it is soft, when add the grated peel of half a lemon, the juice of +two lemons, the beaten yolks of three eggs, and six ounces of lump sugar +dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling water. Stir the mixture over the +fire until it thickens, taking care that it does not boil. Have ready +the whites of the eggs well whisked, stir all together, pour into a +fancy mould, which put into a cold place until the pudding is set. + + +QUEEN'S PUDDING. + +Half-a-pound of bread-crumbs, a pint of new milk, two ounces of butter, +the yolks of four eggs, and a little Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Boil the +bread-crumbs and milk together, then add the sugar, butter, and eggs; +when these are well mixed, bake in a tart-dish until a light brown. Then +put a layer of strawberry jam, and on the top of this the whites of the +eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with a little sifted sugar. Smooth over +the meringue with a knife dipped in boiling water, and bake for ten +minutes in a slow oven. + + +CHOCOLATE PUDDING. + +Boil half-a-pound of light stale bread in a pint of new milk. Stir +continually until it becomes a thick paste; then add an ounce of butter, +a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and two large teaspoonfuls of +Schweitzer's Cocoatina, with a little Nelson's Essence of Vanilla. Take +the pudding off the fire, and mix in, first, the yolks of three eggs, +then the whites beaten to a strong froth. Put into a buttered tart-dish +and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. + + +COCOA-NUT PUDDING. + +Choose a large nut, with the milk in it, grate it finely, mix it with an +equal weight of finely-sifted sugar, half its weight of butter, the +yolks of four eggs, and the milk of the nut. Let the butter be beaten to +a cream, and when all the other ingredients are mixed with it, add the +whites of the eggs, whisked to a strong froth. Line a tart-dish with +puff-paste, put in the pudding mixture and bake slowly for an hour. +Butter a sheet of paper and cover the top of the pudding, as it should +not get brown. + + +RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING. + +Stew raspberries and currants with sugar and water, taking care to have +plenty of juice. Cut the crumb of a stale tin-loaf in slices about +half-an-inch thick and put in a pie-dish, leaving room for the bread to +swell, with alternate layers of fruit, until the dish is full. Then put +in as much of the juice as you can without causing the bread to rise. +When it is soaked up put in the rest of the juice, cover with a plate, +and let the pudding stand until the next day. When required for use turn +out and pour over it a good custard or cream. The excellence of this +pudding depends on there being plenty of syrup to soak the bread +thoroughly. This is useful when pastry is objected to. + + +THE CAPITAL PUDDING. + +Shred a quarter of a pound of suet, mix it with half a pound of flour, +one small teaspoonful each of baking-powder and carbonate of soda, then +add four tablespoonfuls of strawberry or raspberry jam, and stir well +with a gill of milk. Boil for four hours in a high mould, and serve with +wine or fruit sauce. The latter is made by stirring jam into thin butter +sauce. + + +ITALIAN FRITTERS. + +Cut slices of very light bread half-an-inch thick, with a round +paste-cutter, divide them into neat shapes all alike in size. Throw them +into boiling fat and fry quickly of a rich golden brown, dry them on +paper, place on a dish, and pour over orange or lemon syrup, or any kind +of preserve made hot. Honey or golden syrup may be used for those who +like them. + + +DUCHESS OF FIFE'S PUDDING. + +Boil two ounces of rice in a pint of milk until quite tender. When done, +mix with it a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked in a +tablespoonful of water. Line the inside of a plain mould with the rice, +and when it is set fill it up with half-a-pint of cream, whipped very +stiff and mixed with some nice preserve, stewed fruit, or marmalade. +After standing some hours turn out the pudding, and pour over it a +delicate syrup made of the same fruit as that put inside the rice. + + +WELSH CHEESECAKE. + +Dry a quarter of a pound of fine flour, mix with two ounces of sifted +loaf-sugar, and add it by degrees to two ounces of butter beaten to a +cream; then work in three well-beaten eggs, flavour with Nelson's +Essence of Lemon. Line patty-pans with short crust, put in the above +mixture, and bake in a quick oven. + + +FRIAR'S OMELET. + +Make six moderate-sized apples into sauce, sweeten with powdered +loaf-sugar, stir in two ounces of butter, and when cold, mix with two +well-beaten eggs. Butter a tart-dish, and strew the bottom and sides +thickly with bread-crumbs, then put in the apple-sauce, and cover with +bread-crumbs to the depth of a quarter of an inch, put a little +dissolved butter on the top, and bake for an hour in a good oven. When +done, turn it out, and sift sugar over it. + + +COMPOTE OF APPLES WITH FRIED BREAD. + +Bake a dozen good cooking apples, scrape out the pulp, boil this with +half-a-pound of sugar to a pound of pulp, until it becomes stiff. It +must be stirred all the time it is boiling. When done, place the compote +in the centre of the dish, piling it up high. Have ready some triangular +pieces of fried bread, arrange some like a crown on the top, the +remainder at the bottom of the compote. Have ready warmed half a pot of +apricot marmalade mixed with a little plain sugar-syrup, and pour it +over the compote, taking care that each piece of bread is well covered. + + +APPLE FOOL. + +Bake good sharp apples; when done, remove the pulp and rub it through a +sieve, sweeten and flavour with Nelson's Essence of Lemon; when cold add +to it a custard made of eggs and milk, or milk or cream sweetened will +be very good. Keep the fool quite thick. Serve with rusks or sponge +finger biscuits. + + +APPLE MERINGUE. + +Beat up two packets of Nelson's Albumen with six small teaspoonfuls of +water, and stir them into half-a-pound of stiff apple-sauce flavoured +with Nelson's Essence of Lemon. Put the meringue on a bright tin or +silver dish, pile it up high in a rocky shape, and bake in a quick oven +for ten minutes. + + +STEWED PEARS WITH RICE. + +Put four large pears cut in halves into a stewpan with a pint of claret, +Burgundy, or water, and eight ounces of sugar, simmer them until +perfectly tender. Take out the pears and let the syrup boil down to +half; flavour it with vanilla. Have ready a teacupful of rice, nicely +boiled in milk and sweetened, spread it on a dish, lay the pears on it, +pour the syrup over, and serve. This is best eaten cold. + + +COMPOTE OF PRUNES. + +Wash the fruit in warm water, put it on to boil in cold water in which +lump sugar has been dissolved. To a pound of prunes put half-a-pound of +sugar, a pint of water, with the thin rind and juice of a lemon. Let +them simmer for an hour, or until so tender that they will mash when +pressed. Strain the fruit and set it aside. Boil the syrup until it +becomes very thick and is on the point of returning to sugar, then pour +it over the prunes, turn them about so that they become thoroughly +coated, taking care not to break them, let them lie for twelve hours, +then pile up on a glass dish for dessert. + + + + +ON JELLY-MAKING. + +*** + + +It is within the memory of many persons that jelly was only to be made +from calves' feet by a slow, difficult, and expensive process. There is, +indeed, a story told of the wife of a lawyer, early in this century, +having appropriated some valuable parchment deeds to make jelly, when +she could not procure calves' feet. But the secret that it could be so +made was carefully guarded by the possessors of it, and it was not until +the introduction of Nelson's Gelatine that people were brought to +believe that jelly could be made other than in the old-fashioned way. +Even now there is a lingering superstition that there is more +nourishment in jelly made of calves' feet than that made from Gelatine. +The fact is, however, that Gelatine is equally nutritious from whatever +source it is procured. Foreign Gelatine, as is well known, does +sometimes contain substances which, if not absolutely deleterious, are +certainly undesirable; but Messrs. Nelson warrant their Gelatine of +equal purity with that derived from calves' feet. + +It is unnecessary to enlarge on the economy both in time and money of +using Gelatine, or the more certain result obtained from it. If the +recipe given for making "a quart of jelly" is closely followed, a most +excellent and brilliant jelly will be produced. Many cooks get worried +about their jelly-bags, and are much divided in opinion as to the best +kind to use. It is not a point of great consequence whether a felt or +close flannel is selected. We incline to the latter, which must be of +good quality, and if the material is not thick it should be used double. + +When put away otherwise than perfectly clean and dry, or when stored in +a damp place, flannel bags are sure to acquire a strong mouldy flavour, +which is communicated to all jelly afterwards strained through them. + +The great matter, therefore, to observe in respect of the jelly-bag, is +that it be put away in a proper condition, that is, perfectly free from +all stiffness and from any smell whatever. + +As soon as the bag is done with, turn it inside out, throw it into a pan +of boiling water, stir it about with a spoon until it is cleansed. Then, +have another pan of boiling water, and again treat the bag in the same +manner. Add as much cold water as will enable you to wring the bag out +dry, or it can be wrung out in a cloth. This done, finally rinse in hot +water, wring, and, if possible, dry the bag in the open air. See that it +is perfectly free from smell; if not, wash in very hot water again. Wrap +the bag in several folds of clean paper and keep it in a dry place. + +A thing to be observed is that, if the jelly is allowed to come very +slowly to boiling-point it will be more effectually cleared, as the +impurities of the sugar and the thicker portions of the lemons thus rise +more surely with the egg than if this part of the process is too rapidly +carried out. In straining, if the jelly is well made, it is best to +pour all into the bag at one time, doing it slowly, so as not to break +up the scum more than necessary. Should the jelly not be perfectly +bright on a first straining, it should be kept hot, and slowly poured +again through the bag. The contents of the bag should not be disturbed, +nor should the slightest pressure be applied, as this is certain to +cloud the jelly. If brandy is used, it should be put in after the jelly +is strained, as by boiling both the spirit and flavour of it are lost. + +IN ORDER THAT JELLY MAY TURN OUT WELL, DO NOT PUT IT INTO THE MOULD +UNTIL IT IS ON THE POINT OF SETTING. If attention is paid to this there +will never be any difficulty in getting jelly to turn out of a mould, +and putting it into hot water or using hot cloths will be unnecessary. A +mould should be used as cold as possible, because then when the jelly +comes into contact with it, it is at once set and cannot stick. Any kind +of mould may be used. If the direction to put the jelly in _when just +setting_ is followed, it will turn out as well from an earthenware as +from a copper mould. + +It should be unnecessary to say that the utmost cleanliness is +imperative to insure the perfection of jelly. So delicate a substance +not only contracts any disagreeable flavour, but is rendered cloudy by +the least touch of any greasy spoon, or by a stewpan which has not been +properly cleansed. + + +HOW TO USE GELATINE. + +There are a few points connected with the use of Gelatine for culinary +purposes which cannot be too strongly impressed upon housekeepers and +cooks. + +1. Gelatine should always be soaked in cold water till it is thoroughly +saturated--say, till it is so soft that it will tear with the +fingers--whether this is specified in the recipe or not. + +2. Nelson's Gelatine being cut very fine will soak in about an hour, but +whenever possible it is desirable to give it a longer time. When +convenient, it is a good plan to put Gelatine to soak over-night. It +will then dissolve in liquid below boiling-point. + +When jelly has to be cleared with white of egg do not boil it longer +than necessary. Two minutes is quite sufficient to set the egg and +clarify the jelly. + +Use as little Gelatine as possible; that is to say, never use more than +will suffice to make a jelly strong enough to retain its form when +turned out of the mould. The prejudice against Gelatine which existed in +former years was doubtless caused by persons unacquainted with its +qualities using too large a quantity, and producing a jelly hard, tough, +and unpalatable, which compared very unfavourably with the delicate +jellies they had been accustomed to make from calves' feet, the delicacy +of which arose from the simple fact that the Gelatine derived from +calves' feet is so weak that it is almost impossible to make the jellies +too strong. + +Persons accustomed to use Gelatine will know that its "setting" power is +very much affected by the temperature. In the recipes contained in the +following pages the quantity of Gelatine named is that which experience +has shown to be best suited to the average temperature of this country. +In hot weather and foreign climates a little more Gelatine should be +added. + + +TO MAKE A QUART OF BRILLIANT JELLY. + +Soak one ounce of Nelson's Opaque Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water +for two or three hours, and then add the same quantity of boiling water; +stir until dissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons, with +wine and sugar sufficient to make the whole quantity one quart; have +ready the white and shell of an egg, well beaten together, or a packet +of Nelson's Albumen, and stir these briskly into the jelly; boil for two +minutes without stirring it; remove from the fire, allow it to stand two +minutes, and strain through a close flannel bag. Let it be on the point +of setting before putting into the mould. + + +AN ECONOMICAL JELLY. + +For general family use it is not necessary to clear jelly through the +bag, and a quart of excellent jelly can be made as follows: Soak one +ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water for two or three +hours, then add a 3d. packet of Nelson's Citric Acid and three-quarters +of a pound of loaf sugar; pour on half-a-pint of boiling water and +half-a-pint of sherry, orange or other wine (cold), and add one-twelfth +part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of Lemon; stir for a few minutes +before pouring into the moulds. + +The effect of citric acid in the above quantity is to make the jelly +clearer. When this is not of consequence, a third of a packet can be +used, and six ounces of sugar. Wine can be omitted if desired, and water +substituted for it. Ginger-beer makes an excellent jelly for those who +do not wish for wine, and hedozone is also very good. + + +JELLY WITH FRUIT. + +This is an elegant sweetmeat, and with clear jelly and care in moulding, +can be made by inexperienced persons, particularly if Nelson's Bottled +Jelly is used. If the jelly is home-made the recipe for making a "quart +of jelly" will be followed. When the jelly is on the point of setting, +put sufficient into a cold mould to cover the bottom of it. Then place +in the centre, according to taste, any fine fruit you choose, a few +grapes, cherries, strawberries, currants, anything you like, provided it +is not too heavy to break the jelly. Put in another layer of jelly, and +when it is set enough, a little more fruit, then fill up your mould with +jelly, and let it stand for some hours. + + +RIBBON JELLY. + +Soak one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine in half-a-pint of cold water +for twenty minutes, then add the same quantity of boiling water. Stir +until dissolved, and add the juice and peel of two lemons, with wine and +sugar sufficient to make the whole quantity one quart. Have ready the +white and shell of an egg, well beaten together, and stir these briskly +into the jelly; then boil for two minutes without stirring, and remove +it from the fire; allow it to stand two minutes, then strain it through +a close flannel bag. Divide the jelly in two equal parts, leaving one +pint of a yellow colour, and adding a few drops of prepared cochineal to +colour the remainder a bright red. Put a small quantity of red jelly +into a mould previously soaked in cold water. Let this set, then pour in +a small quantity of the pale jelly, and repeat this until the mould is +full, taking care that each layer is perfectly firm before pouring in +the other. Put it in a cool place, and the next day turn it out. Or, the +mould may be partly filled with the yellow jelly, and when this is +thoroughly set, fill up with the red. + +Ribbon jelly and jelly of two colours can be made in any pretty fancy +mould (there are many to be had for the purpose); of course one colour +must always be perfectly firm before the other is put in, or the effect +would be spoilt by the two colours running into each other. Ribbon jelly +can be made with two kinds of Nelson's Bottled Jelly. The Sherry will be +used for the pale, and Cherry or Port Wine jelly for the red colour. +Thus an elegant jelly will be made in a few minutes. + + +CLARET JELLY. + +Take one ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine, soak for twenty minutes in +half-a-pint of cold water, then dissolve. Add three-quarters of a pound +of sugar, a pot of red-currant jelly, and a bottle of good ordinary +claret, and stir over the fire till the sugar is dissolved. Beat the +whites and shells of three eggs, stir them briskly into the preparation, +boil for two minutes longer, take it off the fire, and when it has stood +for two minutes pass it through the bag. This should be a beautiful red +jelly, and perfectly clear. + + +COFFEE JELLY. + +Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of water for an hour +or more, dissolve it in a pint-and-a-half of boiling water with +half-a-pound of sugar. Clear it with white of egg, and run through a +jelly-bag as directed for making "a quart of brilliant jelly." This +done, stir in a tablespoonful, or rather more if liked, of Allen and +Hanbury's Cafe Vierge, which is a very fine essence of coffee. Or, +instead of dissolving the Gelatine in water, use strong coffee. + + +COCOA JELLY. + +Make half-a-pint of cocoa from the nibs, taking care to have it clear. +Soak half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of water; add a +quarter of a pound of sugar, dissolve, and clear the jelly with the +whites and shells of two eggs in the usual way. Flavour with Nelson's +Essence of Vanilla after the jelly has been through the bag. + +When a clear jelly is not required, the cocoa can be made of +Schweitzer's Cocoatina, double the quantity required for a beverage +being used. Mix this with half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine and flavour +with vanilla. + + +ORANGES FILLED WITH JELLY. + +Cut a small round from the stalk end of each orange, and scoop out the +inside. Throw the skins into cold water for an hour to harden them, +drain, and when quite dry inside, half fill with pink jelly. Put in a +cool place, and when the jelly is firm, fill up with pale jelly or +blanc-mange; set aside again, and cut into quarters before serving. +Arrange with a sprig of myrtle between each quarter. Use lemons instead +of oranges if preferred. + + +ORANGE FRUIT JELLY. + +Boil half-a-pound of lump sugar in a gill of water until melted. Stir in +half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine previously soaked in a gill of cold +water; when it is dissolved beat a little, and let it stand until cold. +Rub four lumps of sugar on the peel of two fine oranges, so as to get +the full and delicate flavour; add this sugar with the juice of a lemon +and sufficient orange juice strained to make half-a-pint to the above. +Beat well together, and when on the point of setting, add the fruit of +two oranges prepared as follows: Peel the oranges, cut away all the +white you can without drawing the juice, divide the orange in quarters, +take out seeds and all pith, and cut the quarters into three or four +pieces. Mix these with the jelly, which at once put into a mould, +allowing it to stand a few hours before turning out. + + +APPLE JELLY. + +Take one pound of apples, peel them with a sharp knife, cut them in two, +take out the core, and cut the fruit into small pieces. Place the apples +in a stewpan, with three ounces of lump sugar, half-a-pint of water, a +small teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, and six drops of Nelson's +Essence of Lemon. Put the stewpan on the fire, and boil the apples till +they are quite tender, stirring occasionally to prevent the fruit +sticking to the bottom of the pan; or the apples can be steamed in a +potato-steamer, afterwards adding lemon-juice and sugar. Soak an ounce +of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it, and when the +apples are cooked to a pulp, place a hair sieve over a basin and rub the +apples through with a wooden spoon; stir the melted Gelatine into the +apples, taking care that it is quite smoothly dissolved. If liked, +colour part of the apples by stirring in half a spoonful of cochineal +colouring. + +Rinse a pint-and-a-half mould in boiling water, and then in cold water; +ornament the bottom of the mould with pistachio nuts cut in small +pieces, or preserved cherries, according to taste. When on the point of +setting put the apples into the mould, and if any part of the apples are +coloured, fill the mould alternately with layers of coloured and plain +apples. Stand the mould aside in a cool place to set the apples, then +turn out the jelly carefully on a dish, and send to table with cream +whipped to a stiff froth. + + +LEMON SPONGE. + +To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add one pint of cold water, let it +stand for twenty minutes, then dissolve it over the fire, add the rind +of two lemons thinly pared, three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar, +and the juice of three lemons; boil all together two minutes, strain it +and let it remain till nearly cold, then add the whites of two eggs well +beaten, and whisk ten minutes, when it will become the consistence of +sponge. Put it lightly into a glass dish immediately, leaving it in +appearance as rocky as possible. + +This favourite sweetmeat is also most easily and successfully made with +Nelson's Lemon Sponge. Dissolve the contents of a tin in half-a-pint of +boiling water, let it stand until it is on the point of setting, then +whip it until very white and thick. + +If any difficulty is experienced in getting the Lemon Sponge out of the +tin, set it in a saucepan of boiling water for fifteen minutes. In cold +weather also, should the sponge be slow in dissolving, put it in a +stewpan with the boiling water and stir until dissolved; but do not boil +it. It is waste of time to begin whipping until the sponge is on the +point of setting. A gill of sherry may be added if liked, when the +whipping of the sponge is nearly completed. Put the sponge into a mould +rinsed with cold water. It will be ready for use in two or three hours. +A very pretty effect is produced by ornamenting this snow-white sponge +with preserved barberries, or cherries, and a little angelica cut into +pieces to represent leaves. + + +STRENGTHENING JELLY. + +Put one ounce each of sago, ground rice, pearl barley, and Nelson's +Gelatine--previously soaked in cold water--into a saucepan, with two +quarts of water; boil gently till the liquid is reduced one-half. Strain +and set aside till wanted. A few spoonfuls of this jelly may be +dissolved in broth, tea, or milk. It is nourishing and easily digested. + + +DUTCH FLUMMERY. + +To an ounce and a half of Nelson's Patent Gelatine add a pint of cold +water; let it steep, then pour it into a saucepan, with the rinds of +three lemons or oranges; stir till the Gelatine is dissolved; beat the +yolk of three eggs with a pint of good raisin or white wine, add the +juice of the fruit, and three-quarters of a pound of lump sugar. Mix the +whole well together, boil one minute, strain through muslin, stir +occasionally till cold; then pour into moulds. + + +ASPIC JELLY. + +Were it not for the trouble of making Aspic Jelly, it would be more +generally used than it is, for it gives not only elegance but value to a +number of cold dishes. We have now the means of making this with the +greatest ease, rapidity, and cheapness. Soak an ounce of Nelson's +Gelatine in a pint of cold water, dissolve it in a pint of boiling +water, add a large teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of French +vinegar, and the contents of a tin of Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved +in a gill of boiling water. Wash the shell of an egg before breaking it, +beat up white and shell to a strong froth, and stir into the aspic. Let +it come slowly to the boil, and when it has boiled two minutes, let it +stand for another two minutes, then strain through a flannel bag kept +for the purpose. If a stiff aspic is required, use rather less water. + + +HOW TO MAKE A JELLY-BAG. + +The very stout flannel called double-mill, used for ironing blankets, is +a good material for a jelly-bag. Take care that the seam of the bag be +stitched twice, to secure the jelly against unequal filtration. The bag +may, of course, be made any size, but one of twelve or fourteen inches +deep, and seven or eight across the mouth, will be sufficient for +ordinary use. The most convenient way of using the bag is to tie it upon +a hoop the exact size of the outside of its mouth, and to do this tape +should be sewn round it at equal distances. + +If there is no jelly-bag in a house, a good substitute may be made thus: +Take a clean cloth folded over corner-ways, and sew it up one side, +making it in the shape of a jelly-bag. Place two chairs back to back, +then take the sewn-up cloth and hang it between the two chairs by +pinning it open to the top bar of each chair. Place a basin underneath +the bag. Here is another substitute: Turn a kitchen stool upside down, +and tie a fine diaper broth napkin, previously rinsed in hot water, to +the four legs, place a basin underneath and strain through the napkin. + + + + +CREAMS. + +*** + + +The careful housekeeper of modern times has been accustomed to class +creams among the luxuries which can only be given on special occasions, +both because they take so much time and trouble to make, and because the +materials are expensive. It is, nevertheless, possible to have excellent +creams made on a simple plan and at a moderate cost. Cream of a superior +kind is now everywhere to be had in jars, condensed milk answers well, +and by the use of Nelson's Gelatine, and any flavouring or syrup, +excellent creams can be made. Our readers will find that the method of +the following recipes is simple, the cost moderate, and the result +satisfactory. A hint which, if acted on, will save time and trouble, may +be given to inexperienced persons intending to make creams similar to +Lemon Cream, which is light and frothy. Do not add the lemon-juice until +the mixture of cream and lemon-juice is nearly cold, and do not commence +whipping until it is on the point of setting. + +Delicious and inexpensive creams can be made by dissolving any of +Nelson's Tablet Jellies in half the quantity of water given in the +directions for making the jelly, and adding cream, either plain or +whipped, in the same way as directed for Orange Cream and Cherry +Cream. + + +LEMON CREAM. + +Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, dissolve it +in a pint of boiling milk with a quarter of a pound of lump sugar. When +nearly cold, add a gill of lemon-juice and whisk the cream until it is +light and sponge-like. Then stir in a gill of whipped cream, put into a +mould, and let it stand for two or three hours. + +Or, dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Lemon Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint +of hot water. When cool, add to it half-a-pint of cream, and whisk +together until on the point of setting, when mould it. + + +STRAWBERRY CREAM. + +Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in a gill of +cold water, in a pint of hot milk. When it is so nearly cold as to be on +the point of setting, add half-a-pint of strawberry syrup, and +sufficient rose colouring to make it a delicate pink; whisk the cream +until it is light and frothy, stir in lightly a gill of whipped cream, +then mould it. + +A good syrup can be made for this cream by putting half-a-pound of +strawberry and half-a-pound of raspberry jam into half-a-pint of boiling +water, and, after having well stirred it, rubbing it through a fine +sieve. The syrup should not be too sweet, and the addition of the juice +of one or two lemons, or a little citric acid, will be an advantage. + +Creams, which have cochineal colouring in them, should not be put into +tin moulds, as this metal turns them of a mauve shade. Breton's Rose +Colouring is recommended, because it is prepared from vegetables, and is +free from acid. + + +ORANGE CREAM. + +Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Orange Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint of +hot water. When cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip +together until the cream is on the point of setting. + + +IMITATION LEMON CREAM. + +This will be found useful when cream is not to be had. Put the thin peel +of two lemons into half-a-pint of boiling water, and when it has stood a +little, dissolve half-a-pound of loaf sugar in it. When nearly cold, add +three eggs, the yolks and whites well beaten together, and the juice of +the lemons. Strain this into a stewpan, and stir until it is well +thickened. After taking from the fire, stir occasionally until cold, +then mix into it a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked and +dissolved in half a gill of water, also nearly cold. + + +APRICOT CREAM. + +Drain the juice from a tin of preserved apricots, add to it an equal +quantity of water; make a syrup by boiling with this half-a-pound of +lump sugar until it begins to thicken; then put in the apricots and +simmer them gently for ten minutes. Drain away the syrup, and put both +it and the fruit aside separately for use as directed. + +Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked, in a quart of +boiling milk lightly sweetened, and, when at the point of setting, put a +teacupful of it gently into a mould, then a layer of the apricots; wait +a minute or two before putting in another cup of cream, then fill up the +mould with alternate layers of fruit and cream. Let the cream stand some +hours before turning out, and when it is on its dish pour round it the +syrup of apricots. + + +PINEAPPLE CREAM. + +Drain the syrup from a tin of pineapple, boil it down to half. Cut the +best part of the pineapple into neat little squares, pound the +remainder, which press through a strainer. Make a custard with +half-a-pint of milk and three yolks of eggs. Measure the quantity of +syrup and fruit juice, and dissolve Nelson's Gelatine in the proportion +of half-an-ounce to a pint of it and custard together. Mix the gelatine +with the custard, then put in the pieces of pineapple, and when it is +cold the syrup, the juice, and two tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. Have +ready a little of Nelson's Bottled Cherry or Port Wine Jelly melted in a +fancy mould, which turn round so that it adheres to the sides, and when +the first quantity is set, put in a little more. As the cream is on the +point of setting, put it into the mould and allow it to stand until +firm. When turned out, ornament the cream with the remainder of the +bottled jelly lightly chopped. + + +PALACE CREAM. + +Make a custard of three eggs and a pint-and-a-half of milk sweetened, +when it is ready dissolve in it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, +previously soaked in half-a-pint of milk. When made, the quantity of +custard should be fully a pint-and-a-half, otherwise the cream may be +too stiff. When the cream is cool, put a little into a mould, previously +ornamented with glace cherries and little pieces of angelica to +represent leaves. The fruit is all the better if soaked in a little +brandy, as are the cakes, but milk can be used for these last. Put a +portion of two ounces of sponge-cakes and one ounce of ratafias on the +first layer of cream, keeping it well in the centre, and then fill up +the mould with alternate layers of cakes and cream. When turned out, a +little liqueur or any kind of syrup can be poured round the cream. + + +FRUIT CREAM. + +Strain the juice from a bottle of raspberries and currants on to +three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, boil up, then simmer for +half-an-hour. Mix the fruit and a large tablespoonful of raspberry jam +with the syrup, and rub it through a hair sieve. Dissolve Nelson's +Gelatine, in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of the fruit, in +a little water, stir well together. When cold put it into a border +mould, and as soon as it is firm turn out and fill the centre with a +cream, which make with half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine and three +gills of milk, sweetened and flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla. +Whisk until cool, when stir in a gill of whipped cream. + + +MANDARIN CREAM. + +Dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in +half-a-pint of cold milk, in half-a-pint of sweetened boiling milk or +cream. Dissolve a pint bottle of Cherry Jelly as directed. When the last +is on the point of setting put a layer into a mould, then a layer of the +cream, each of these about an inch deep, and fill up the mould in this +way. This quantity of material will make two handsome moulds, suitable +for a supper party. + + +BLANC-MANGE. + +To an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine add half-a-pint of new milk, let it +soak for twenty minutes, boil two or three laurel leaves in a pint of +cream and half-a-pint of milk; when boiling pour over the soaked +gelatine, stir it till it dissolves, add four or five ounces of lump +sugar and a little brandy if approved; strain it through muslin, stir +occasionally till it thickens, and then put it into moulds. + + +SOLID SYLLABUB. + +Soak an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine twenty minutes in three-quarters of a +pint of water, add the juice and peel of two large lemons, a quarter of +a pint of sherry, five or six ounces of lump sugar; boil the above two +minutes, then pour upon it a pint of warm cream, stir it quickly till it +boils, then strain and stir till it thickens, and pour it into moulds. + + +CHARLOTTE RUSSE. + +Line a plain mould at the bottom and sides with sponge finger-biscuits, +fill it with strawberry cream, or cream made as directed in the several +recipes. If the weather is warm it will be necessary to place the +Charlotte on ice for an hour or two, but in the winter it will turn out +without this. The biscuits for a Charlotte Russe should be made quite +straight, and in arranging them in the mould they should lap slightly +one over the other. + + +BADEN-BADEN PUDDING. + +Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint +of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk; when it is nearly +cold stir into it an ounce of rice, well boiled or baked; flavour the +pudding to taste, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould +and let it stand for two or three hours; serve plain or with stewed +fruit. + + +CHERRY CREAM. + +Dissolve a pint tablet of Nelson's Cherry Tablet Jelly in half-a-pint of +hot water. When cool, mix with it half-a-pint of cream or milk, and whip +together until the cream is on the point of setting. + + +VELVET CREAM. + +Soak three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine in +half-a-pint of sherry or raisin wine, then dissolve it over the fire, +stirring all the time; rub the rinds of two lemons with six ounces of +lump sugar, add this, with the juice, to the hot solution, which is then +to be poured gently into a pint of cream; stir the whole until quite +cold, and then put into moulds. + +This can be made with a pint of boiling milk, in which an ounce of +Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of cold milk, has +been dissolved, and flavoured and sweetened. + + +ITALIAN CREAM. + +Take three-quarters of an ounce of Nelson's Patent Gelatine and steep it +in half-a-pint of cold water; boil the rind of a lemon, pared thinly, in +a pint of cream; add the juice of the lemon and three tablespoonfuls of +raspberry or strawberry syrup to the soaked Gelatine; then pour the hot +cream upon the above ingredients, gently stirring the while. Sweeten to +taste, and add a drop or two of prepared cochineal. Whisk till the +mixture is thick, then pour into moulds. + + +CHEESE AND MACARONI CREAM. + +Boil two ounces of macaroni, in water slightly salted, until tender, +when drain; cut it into tiny rings, and put it into a stewpan with +half-a-pint of milk or cream, keeping it hot on the stove without +boiling for half-an-hour. Soak and dissolve half-an-ounce of Nelson's +Gelatine in half-a-pint of milk, and when this and the macaroni are +cold, stir together, add two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, with salt +and cayenne pepper to taste. Stir occasionally until the cream is on the +point of setting, when mould it. Should the cream be absorbed by the +macaroni, more must be added to bring the whole quantity of liquid to +one pint. If preferred, rice well boiled or baked in milk, or vermicelli +paste, can be substituted for the macaroni. + + +COFFEE CREAM. + +Dissolve an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in +half-a-pint of cold milk, in a pint-and-a-half of boiling milk with two +ounces of sugar; stir in sufficient strong Essence of Coffee to flavour +it, and when on the point of setting put it into a mould. + + +CHOCOLATE CREAM. + +Boil a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar in a pint of milk. Dissolve in +it an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, previously soaked in half-a-pint of +cold milk, and stir into it three teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's +Cocoatina, dissolved in half-a-pint of boiling milk. Beat until on the +point of setting, and put the cream into a mould. A few drops of +Nelson's Essence of Vanilla can be added with advantage. + + +CHARTREUSE OF ORANGES. + +Peel four or five oranges, carefully take out the divisions which put on +a hair sieve in a cool place to drain all night. Melt a little Nelson's +Bottled Orange Jelly, pour it into a saucer and dip in each piece of +orange, which arrange in a close circle round the bottom of a small +pudding-basin. Keep the thick part of the orange downwards in the first +row, in the next put them the reverse way. Continue thus until the basin +is covered. Pour in a little of the melted jelly, then of cream, made by +mixing a quarter of an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine soaked and dissolved +in a gill of milk, into a gill of rich cream, sweetened. Fill up the +basin with alternate layers of jelly and cream, allowing each of these +to set before the other is put in, making the jelly layers last. The +Chartreuse will turn out easily if the jelly is gently pressed from the +basin all round. Garnish with two colours of Nelson's Bottled Jelly +lightly chopped. + + +FIG CREAM. + +Preserved green figs are used for this cream--those of Fernando +Rodrigues are excellent. Place the figs in a plain mould, and pour in +gently, when on the point of setting, a cream made with a pint of cream +and half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine, and lightly sweetened. When the +cream is turned out of the mould, pour round it the syrup in which the +figs were preserved. + + +CHAMPAGNE CREAM. + +Although this is properly a jelly, when well made it eats so rich that +it is usually called cream. It is chiefly used in cases of illness, when +it is desirable to administer champagne in the form of jelly. Soak +half-an-ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a gill of cold water, dissolve it +in a stewpan with one or two ounces of sugar, according as the jelly is +required sweet or otherwise. When cool, add three gills of champagne and +two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, whip until it is beginning to set and +is light and frothy; put into a mould, and it will be ready for use in +two hours, if put in a cold place. + + +ORANGE MOUSSE. + +Rub the zest of the peel of two oranges on to a quarter of a pound of +lump sugar, which boil with half-a-gill of water to a thick syrup. Beat +the juice of three large oranges with two whole eggs, and having +whisked them slightly, add the syrup and Nelson's Gelatine, dissolved, +in the proportion of half-an-ounce to a pint of liquid. Whisk the +mixture over a saucepan of hot water until it is warm, then place the +basin in another with cold water and continue whisking until it is +beginning to set, when put it into a fancy mould. + + +STRAWBERRY TRIFLE. + +Put a layer of strawberry jam at the bottom of a trifle dish. Dissolve a +half-pint tablet of Nelson's Raspberry Jelly, and when it is set break +it up and strew it over the jam. Upon this lay sponge finger biscuits +and ratafia cakes, and pour over just enough new milk to make them soft. +Make a thick custard, flavoured with Nelson's Essence of Vanilla, and +spread it over the cakes. Finally place on the top a handsome quantity +of cream, whisked with a little powdered sugar and flavoured with +vanilla. + + +WHIPPED CREAM. + +To half-a-pint of cream put a tablespoonful of fine sifted sugar, add +sufficient of any of Nelson's Essences to give it a delicate flavour. +With a whisk or wire spoon, raise a froth on the cream, remove this as +soon as it rises, put it on a fine hair, or, still better, lawn sieve; +repeat this process until the cream is used up. Should the cream get +thick in the whisking, add a very little cold water. Put the sieve +containing the whisked cream in a basin and let it stand for some hours, +which will allow it to become more solid and fit for such purposes as +filling meringues. + + + + +CAKES. + +*** + + +The proper beating of the whites of the eggs is an important matter in +cake-making. There are a number of machines for this purpose, which are +in turn eagerly adopted by inexperienced persons; but for private use +not one of them is comparable to hand-beating. When once the knack of +beating eggs is acquired but little labour is needed to bring them to +the right consistency; indeed, the most successful result is that which +is the most rapidly attained. The whites of eggs for beating should be +fresh, and should be carefully separated from the yolks by passing and +repassing them in the two halves of the shell. It is best to beat the +whites immediately they are broken, but if this is not possible, they +must be kept in a cool place until wanted. If ice is at hand, it will be +found advantageous to keep the eggs in it. In well-furnished kitchens a +copper beating-bowl is provided; it should not be tinned, as contact +with this metal will blacken the eggs; for this reason, the whisk, if of +iron wire, should not be new. An earthenware bowl with circular bottom, +and sufficiently large to admit of a good stroke in beating, answers the +purpose perfectly well. A pinch of salt may be added to the whites, and +if an inexperienced beater finds them assume a granulated appearance, a +little lemon-juice will remedy it. + +Begin by beating gently, increasing the pace as the egg thickens. As it +is the air mixing with the albumen of the eggs which causes them to +froth, it is necessary to beat them in a well-ventilated and cool place, +so that they may absorb as much air as possible. + +If these simple and important conditions are observed, the whites of a +dozen eggs may be beaten to the strongest point, without fatigue to the +operator, in five minutes. When the whites are properly beaten they +should turn out of the bowl in one mass, and, after standing a little +while, will not show signs of returning to their original state. + +In order more easily to make cakes and biscuits into the composition of +which almonds and cocoa-nut enter largely, manufacturers supply both of +these pounded or desiccated. It is, however, preferable to prepare the +former fresh, and much time and trouble may be saved in passing almonds +through Kent's Combination Mincer, 199, High Holborn, instead of +laboriously pounding them in a mortar. The result is, besides, more +satisfactory, the paste being smoother than it can otherwise be made in +domestic practice. + +Cakes of the description for which we now give recipes cannot be made +well unless the materials are properly prepared and thoroughly beaten. +It is clear that if eggs are not beaten to such a consistency that they +will bear the weight of the other ingredients, the result must be a +heavy cake. + +Currants for cakes, after they have been washed and picked, should be +scalded, in order to swell them and make them more tender. + +Put the currants into a basin, pour boiling water over them, cover the +basin with a plate; after they have stood a minute, drain away the water +and throw the fruit on a cloth to absorb the moisture. Put the currants +on a dish or plate in a very cool oven, turning occasionally until +thoroughly dry; dust a little flour over them, and they will be ready +for use. + +Castor sugar for cakes works more easily when it is fine. For superior +cakes raw sugar will not answer. + + +POUND CAKE. + +One pound fresh butter, one pound Vienna flour, six eggs (or seven, if +small), one pound castor sugar, quarter of a pound almonds cut small, +half-a-pound of currants or sultanas, three ounces of candied peel, a +few drops of essence of ratafia. + +The butter to be beaten to a cream. If it is hard warm the pan. Add the +sugar gradually; next the eggs, which must previously be well beaten up; +then sift in the flour; and, last of all, put in fruit, almonds, and +flavouring. + +This cake takes about half-an-hour to mix, as all the ingredients must +be well beaten together with an iron spoon from left to right. Bake in +small tins, for about forty minutes, in a moderate oven. + + +PLAIN POUND CAKE. + +Half-a-pound of fresh butter, three eggs, one pound of Vienna flour, one +pound of castor sugar, a quarter of a pound of almonds cut small, +half-a-pound of currants, three ounces of candied peel, a few drops of +essence of ratafia. + +Beat the butter to a cream, from left to right, and mix in the sugar +gradually. Beat the eggs up, and mix them with half-a-pint of new milk; +stir into the butter; then add the flour; and, last of all, the fruit. + + +SAVOY SPONGE CAKE. + +Beat half-a-pound of finely sifted sugar with the yolks of four eggs +until you have a thick batter, stir in lightly six ounces of fine dry +sifted flour, then the whites of the eggs beaten to a very strong froth. +Have ready a tin which has been lightly buttered, and then covered with +as much sifted sugar as will adhere to it. Pour in the cake mixture, +taking care the tin is not more than half full, and bake for +half-an-hour. + + +LEMON SAVOY SPONGE. + +Half-a-pound of loaf sugar, rub some of the lumps on the peel of two +lemons, so as to get all the flavour from them; dissolve the sugar in +half a gill of boiling water; add the juice of the lemons, or one of +them if a large size, and beat with the yolks of four eggs until very +white and thick; stir in a quarter of a pound of fine flour, beat the +whites of the eggs to a strong froth, and mix as thoroughly but as +lightly as possible; butter and sift sugar over a mould, nearly fill it +with cake mixture, and bake at dark yellow paper heat for thirty +minutes. + + +MACAROONS. + +Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold +water to a strong froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely-sifted sugar and +two ounces each of pounded sweet and bitter almonds. Flour a +baking-sheet, and lay on it sheets of wafer-paper, which can be bought +at the confectioner's, and drop on to them at equal distances, a small +piece of the paste. Bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, or until +the macaroons are crisp and of a golden colour. When done cut round the +wafer-paper with a knife, and put the cakes on a sieve to dry. + +In following recipes for this class of cake some judgment is required in +the choice of the sugar, and the result will vary greatly according as +this is of the right sort, or otherwise. A little more or less sugar may +be required, and only practice can make perfect in this matter. As a +general direction, it may be given that the sugar must be of the finest +quality, and be very finely sifted, but not flour-like. + + +COCOA-NUT CAKES. + +Beat up a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold +water to a strong froth, mix with it a quarter of a pound of finely +sifted sugar, and two ounces of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Put sheets +of wafer-paper on a baking-tin, drop small pieces of the cake mixture on +to it, keeping them in a rocky shape. Bake in a moderate oven for ten +minutes, or until crisp. + + +CHOCOLATE CAKES. + +Whisk a packet of Nelson's Albumen with three teaspoonfuls of cold water +to the strongest possible froth, mix in half-a-pound of finely sifted +sugar, two teaspoonfuls of Schweitzer's Cocoatina, and six drops of +Nelson's Essence of Vanilla; sift paper thickly with sugar, and drop +small teaspoonfuls of the mixture at equal distances on it, allowing +space for the cakes to spread a little. Bake for ten minutes in a +moderate oven. + + +COCOA-NUT ROCK. + +Boil half-a-pound of loaf sugar in a gill of water until it is beginning +to return again to sugar, when cool add a packet of Nelson's Albumen +whisked to a strong froth with three teaspoonfuls of water, and stir in +a quarter of a pound of Edwards' Desiccated Cokernut. Spread the +mixture, not more than an inch thick, in a greased pudding-tin, and +place in a cool oven to dry. When done cut in neat squares, and keep in +tins in a cool, dry place. + + +SUGAR ICING. + +No icing can be successfully done unless the sugar is of the finest +kind, perfectly white, and so finely sifted as hardly to be +distinguished by the eye from potato-flour. Such sugar can now generally +be procured of the best grocers at a moderate price. The process of +sifting the sugar at home is somewhat slow and troublesome, but by so +doing a perfectly pure article is secured. After being crushed the sugar +should be passed through sieves of varying fineness, and, finally, +through one made for the purpose, or failing this, very fine muslin will +answer. When the sugar has been sifted at home, and it is certain there +is no admixture of any kind with it, a small quantity of "fecule de +pommes de terre" (potato-flour) may be added; it reduces sweetness, and +does not interfere with the result of the process. If the sugar is not +sifted very fine a much longer time will be required to make the icing, +and in the end it will not look so smooth as it ought to do. +Confectioners use pyroligneous acid instead of lemon-juice, and there is +no objection to it in small quantities. To make the icing, beat up a +packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved with three teaspoonfuls of cold +water, work in by degrees one pound of fine icing sugar, adding a +teaspoonful of lemon-juice or a few drops of pyroligneous acid, which +will assist in keeping the icing white, or a slight tinge of stone-blue +will have the same effect. If potato-flour is used, mix it thoroughly +with the sugar before adding it to the white of egg. A little more or +less sugar may be required, as the result is in great measure determined +by the method of the operator; and when the paste is perfectly smooth, +and will spread without running, it is fit for use. For icing large +cakes confectioners use a stand which has a revolving board, so that +cakes can conveniently be turned about; failing this, an ordinary board +or inverted plate can be made to answer. As soon as the icing is spread +on the cake it must be dried in an oven with the door open. It is +sometimes found sufficient to keep the cake in a hot room for some +hours. If too great heat is used the icing will crack. + + +ALMOND PASTE. + +Blanch one pound of sweet and two ounces of bitter almonds, pound them +in a mortar, adding a little rose-water as you go on, to prevent oiling; +and when all the almonds are reduced to a perfectly smooth paste, mix +them with an equal weight of icing sugar. Moisten the paste with a +packet of Nelson's Albumen dissolved in three teaspoonfuls of cold +water, and spread it evenly on the cake, allowing it to become dry and +firm before spreading the icing over it. This paste can be used for +making several kinds of cakes and sweetmeats, and without the Albumen +can be kept in bottles for some time. Almond paste can be made from +bitter almonds which have been infused in spirit to make an extract for +flavouring, and in this case no sweet almonds will be required. + + + + +BEVERAGES. + +*** + + +Among the most useful preparations which have ever been introduced to +the public for the immediate production of delicious beverages, are +NELSON'S BOTTLED JELLIES. These beverages are highly approved for +ordinary use at luncheon and dinner, as well as for afternoon and +evening entertainments, and have a special value for invalids, as they +contain nourishment and are at the same time very refreshing. When +required for use, dissolve a bottle of the jelly, and mix with it five +times its bulk of water, the beverage can then be used either hot or +cold; if in standing it should be slightly thickened it will only be +necessary briskly to stir it with a spoon. Lemon, orange, and cherry +jelly, with the addition of water as directed, will be found superior to +any other beverage of the kind, and specially excellent for children's +parties. + +The following "cups" are delicious made with the jelly as directed. + +CLARET CUP, made merely with seltzer water, claret, and PORT WINE JELLY, +will be found superior to the ordinary preparation. A little sugar may +be added if desired. To a bottle of claret and a pint of seltzer-water +use a half-pint bottle of PORT WINE JELLY, stir briskly until well +mixed, put in a sprig of balm and borage, three thick slices of +cucumber; place the vessel containing the claret cup covered over on +ice for an hour; strain out the herbs before serving. + +BADMINTON CUP is made with Burgundy, in the same way as the above, with +the addition of a bottle of ORANGE JELLY. + +CHAMPAGNE CUP requires equal quantities of the wine and seltzer-water, +with a bottle of ORANGE JELLY. + +CIDER CUP is made with a pint and a half of cider, a bottle of +soda-water, and a bottle of either ORANGE, LEMON, or SHERRY JELLY. + +CHERRY CUP.--Half-a-pint of claret, a quart of soda-water, and a +half-pint bottle of CHERRY JELLY. + + +MULLED PORT WINE. + +Dissolve a bottle of Port Wine Jelly and add to it four times its bulk +of boiling water with a little nutmeg, and, if liked, a crushed clove. + + +LEMONADE. + +Half-a-teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in a quart of +water, with a sliced lemon and sweetened with sugar, forms a good +lemonade, and is a cooling and refreshing drink. A small pinch of the +Citric Acid dissolved in a tumbler of water with a little sugar and a +pinch of bicarbonate of potash, makes an effervescing draught. These +acidulated drinks are exceedingly useful for allaying thirst; and as +refrigerants in feverish and inflammatory complaints they are +invaluable. + + +LEMONADE (A NEW RECIPE). + +Dissolve three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar and the contents of a +threepenny packet of Nelson's Citric Acid in a quart of boiling water; +then add two quarts of fresh cold water and one-twelfth part of a bottle +of Nelson's Essence of Lemon. The above quantity of sugar may be +increased or decreased according to taste. + + +GINGERADE. + +Crush an ounce of whole ginger, pour over it a quart of boiling water, +cover the vessel, and let the infusion stand until cold. (The Extract of +Ginger may be used in place of this infusion). Strain through flannel; +add a teaspoonful of Nelson's Citric Acid, six drops of Nelson's Lemon +Flavouring, and a quarter of a pound of lump sugar; stir until +dissolved, and the Gingerade will be ready. + + +AN EXTRACT OF GINGER FOR FAMILY USE. + +An Extract of Ginger made as follows is most useful for family purposes, +and can be substituted for the infusion in Gingerade. Crush half-a-pound +of fine whole ginger in the mortar, or cut into small pieces. Put into a +bottle with half-a-pint of unsweetened gin, let it stand for a month, +shaking it occasionally, then drain it off into another bottle, allowing +it to stand until it has become clear, when it will be fit for use. + + +LEMON SYRUP. + +Boil a pound of fine loaf sugar in a pint-and-a-half of water. Remove +all scum as it rises, and continue boiling gently until the syrup begins +to thicken and assumes a golden tinge, then add a pint of strained +lemon-juice or a packet of Nelson's Citric Acid dissolved in water, and +allow both to boil together for half-an-hour. Pour the syrup into a jug, +to each pint add one-twelfth part of a bottle of Nelson's Essence of +Lemon, and when cold bottle and cork well. + +The juice of Seville oranges may be made into a syrup in the same way as +that of lemons, or lemon and orange juice may be used in equal +quantities. These syrups are useful for making summer drinks, and for +invalids as lemonade or orangeade. + + +MILK BEVERAGE. + +A very agreeable and useful beverage is made by dissolving a quarter of +an ounce of Nelson's Gelatine in a pint of milk. A spoonful of cream +can, if preferred, be used with a bottle of soda-water. For invalids, +this beverage can be used instead of tea or coffee, and may be +preferable in many cases on account of the nourishment it contains; it +will also be found an excellent substitute, taken hot, for wine-whey, or +posset, as a remedy for a cold. For summer use, Milk Beverage is +delicious, and may be flavoured with raspberry or strawberry syrup. If +on standing it should thicken, it will only be necessary briskly to beat +it up with a spoon. + + +CITRIC ACID. + +This acid exists in the juice of many fruits, such as the orange, +currant, and quince, but especially in that of the lemon. It is chiefly +made from the concentrated juice of lemons, imported from Sicily and +Southern Italy, and which, after undergoing certain methods of +preparation, yields the crystals termed Citric Acid. These crystals may +be used for all the purposes for which lemon-juice is employed. In the +manufacture of the Citric Acid now offered to the public by Messrs. G. +Nelson, Dale, and Co., only the pure juice of the lemon is used. + + +ESSENCE OF LEMON. + +This well-known essence is extracted from the little cells visible in +the rind of lemons, by submitting raspings of the fruit to pressure. The +greater portion of the oil of lemons sold in England is imported from +Portugal, Italy, and France. It is very frequently adulterated with oil +of turpentine. In order to present the public with a perfectly pure +commodity, G. Nelson, Dale, and Co. import their Essence of Lemon direct +from Sicily, and from a manufacturer in whom they have the fullest +confidence. + +Nelson's Essence of Lemon is sold in graduated bottles, eightpence each, +each bottle containing sufficient for twelve quarts of jelly. + + + + +MACARONI, ETC. + +*** + + +We now give recipes for a few useful little dishes, chiefly of macaroni, +which can be had at such a price as to bring it within the reach of all +classes. English-made macaroni can be bought at fourpence, and even +less, the pound, and the finest Italian at sixpence. The Naples, or +pipe-macaroni, is the most useful for families, and the Genoa, or +twisted, for high-class dishes. The English taste is in favour of +macaroni boiled soft, and in order to make it so, many cooks soak it. +But this is not correct, and it is not at all necessary to soak +macaroni. If kept boiling in sufficient water, the macaroni requires no +attention--ebullition prevents it sticking to the saucepan. + +Although we give several ways of finishing macaroni, it is excellent +when merely boiled in water with salt, as in the first recipe, eaten as +an accompaniment to meat, or with stewed fruit. + + +MACARONI WITH CHEESE. + +Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni broken into pieces an inch long, +into three pints of boiling water, with a large pinch of salt. The +saucepan should be large, or the water will rise over when the macaroni +boils fast, which it should do for twenty or twenty-five minutes. When +done, strain the macaroni through a colander, put it back into the +saucepan with an ounce of fresh butter, a small pinch of white pepper +and of salt, if necessary, and shake it over the fire for a minute or +two. Take the saucepan off the fire, and stir into the macaroni two +ounces or more, if liked, of grated Parmesan cheese. Serve immediately +with crisp dry toast, cut in neat pieces. If not convenient to use +Parmesan, a mild dry English or American cheese will answer very well. +Some cooks prefer, when the macaroni is boiled, to put a fourth part of +it on to a hot dish, then to strew over it a fourth part of the grated +cheese, and so on till all of both are used, cheese, of course, covering +the top. + + +MACARONI CHEESE. + +Boil and drain the macaroni, mix with a quarter of a pound an ounce of +butter, and two ounces of grated cheese; pepper or cayenne pepper and +salt to taste. Put the macaroni in a dish and strew over it sufficient +grated cheese to cover it up, run a little dissolved butter over the +top, and put it in the oven till it is a bright-yellow colour; serve +quickly. + + +MACARONI WITH BACON. + +Boil two ounces of streaky bacon, cut it into dice or mince it, stir it +into a quarter of a pound of macaroni boiled as for macaroni cheese: if +liked, add a few drops of vinegar, pepper, and salt, and serve very +hot. + + +MACARONI WITH ONIONS. + +Boil the macaroni as above, mix with it two or three onions sliced and +fried a delicate brown, add a few spoonfuls of gravy, stir over the fire +for a few minutes and serve. + + +STEWED MACARONI. + +Throw a quarter of a pound of macaroni into three pints of boiling water +with a teaspoonful of salt, and let it boil for twenty minutes. Drain in +a colander, then put it into a stewpan with half a tin of Nelson's +Extract of Meat dissolved in half-a-pint of water, and stir over the +fire for five minutes. Take it off the fire and stir in one ounce of +grated cheese, pepper and salt to taste. + + +MACARONI WITH TOMATOES. + +Prepare the macaroni as in the above recipe, put it into a stewpan with +a small piece of butter and a teacupful of tomato sauce, or a small +bottle of conserve of tomatoes, and stir briskly over the fire for five +minutes. + + +SWEET MACARONI. + +Boil the macaroni as for the other dishes, but with only a pinch of +salt, until tender, when drained put into a stewpan with a gill of milk +to each two ounces, and two ounces of sifted lump sugar. Any flavouring +may be used, but perhaps there is nothing better than grated lemon-peel, +and for those who like it, powdered cinnamon or grated nutmeg. Stir over +the fire until all the milk is absorbed; a little cream is, of course, +an improvement. For those who do not like milk, the juice of a lemon, or +a little sherry, may be substituted, and for a superior dish vanilla can +be used for flavouring. + + +BOILED CHEESE. + +Put four tablespoonfuls of beer into a small saucepan, shred into it a +quarter of a pound of good new cheese, and stir briskly over the fire +until all is dissolved and is on the point of boiling, then take it off +instantly, for, if the cheese is allowed to boil, it will become tough. +Have ready slices of toasted bread, spread the cheese on it, and serve +as quickly as possible. + + +LES CANAPES AU PARMESAN. + +Take the crumb of a French roll, cut it into rounds a quarter of an inch +thick, put them into a wire frying-basket, immerse in hot fat, and crisp +the bread instantly. Throw it on to paper, dry, and sprinkle over each +piece a thick layer of grated Parmesan cheese, pepper, and salt. Put the +canapes in a Dutch oven before a clear fire, just to melt the cheese, +and serve immediately they are done. + + +RICE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE. + +Boil a quarter of a pound of Patna rice in water with salt; drain it, +toss it up in a stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, and a pinch of +cayenne pepper. Put a quarter of the rice on a hot dish, strew over it +equally an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese, then put another portion of +rice and cheese until all is used. Serve immediately. + + +SCALLOPED EGGS. + +Take a cupful of finely-sifted bread-crumbs, moisten them with a little +cold milk, cream, or gravy, and season nicely with pepper and salt. Put +a thin layer of the moistened crumbs on a lightly-buttered dish, cut two +hard eggs into slices, and dip each piece in very thick well-seasoned +white sauce, or Nelson's Extract of Meat dissolved in a little water, so +as to glaze the eggs. Having arranged the slices of egg neatly on the +layer of moistened bread-crumbs, cover them with another layer of it, +and on the top strew thickly some pale gold-coloured raspings. Bake in a +moderate oven for ten minutes. If potatoes are liked, they make a nice +substitute for bread-crumbs. Take some mashed potatoes, add to them a +spoonful of cream or gravy, and proceed as with bread-crumbs. Serve +gravy made of Nelson's Extract of Meat with this dish. + + +SCOTCH WOODCOCK. + +Melt a small piece of butter the size of a nut in a stewpan, break into +it two eggs, with a spoonful of milk or gravy, and pepper and salt, stir +round quickly until the eggs begin to thicken, keep the yolks whole as +long as you can. When finished, pour on to a buttered toast, to which +has been added a little essence of anchovy or anchovy paste, and serve. + + +MUSHROOMS WITH CREAM SAUCE. + +Dissolve two ounces of butter in a stewpan, mix in the yolks of two eggs +lightly beaten, the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of pepper and salt, +stir this over the fire until thickened. Have ready half-a-pint of plain +butter sauce, and mix all gradually together, with a small tin of +champignons, or about the same quantity of fresh mushrooms chopped and +stewed gently for ten minutes in a little broth or milk. Stir them with +the liquor in which they have stewed into the sauce, and let them stand +for a few minutes, then spread the mixture on to neat slices of toasted +bread. The sauce must be a good thickness, so that it will not run off +the toast, and care must be taken in the first process not to oil the +butter or make the sauce lumpy. + + +TO BOIL RICE (A BLACK MAN'S RECIPE). + +As rice is so often badly cooked, we make no apology for giving the +black man's celebrated recipe. Although he does not recommend a little +salt in the water, we think that a small quantity should always be used, +even when the rice has to be served as a sweet dish. "Wash him well, +much wash in cold water, rice flour, make him stick. Water boil all +ready, very fast. Shove him in; rice can't burn, water shake him too +much. Boil quarter of an hour or little more. Rub one rice in thumb and +finger; if all rub away him quite done. Put rice in colander, hot water +run away. Pour cup of cold water on him, put back in saucepan, keep him +covered near the fire, then rice all ready. Eat him up." + + +TO MINCE VEGETABLES. + +Peel the onion or turnip, put it on the board, cut it first one way in +slices, not quite through, lest it should fall to pieces, then cut it in +slices the other way, which will produce long cubes. Finally turn the +onion on its side and cut through, when it will fall into dice-like +pieces. The inconvenience and sometimes positive pain caused to the eyes +by mincing or chopping the onions on a board is thus obviated, and a +large quantity can be quickly prepared in the above way. + + + + +HINTS ON HOUSEKEEPING. + +*** + + +How many people are crying, "How can we save? Where can we retrench? +Shall the lot fall on the house-furnishing, or the garden, or the +toilet, or the breakfast or the dinner table? Shall we do with one +servant less, move into a cheaper neighbourhood, or into a smaller +house? No, we cannot make any such great changes in our way of life. +There are the boys and girls growing up; we must keep up appearances for +their sakes. We remember the old proverb that, 'however bad it may be to +be poor, it is much worse to look poor.'" Yet, although, for many +reasons, it is often most difficult to retrench on a large scale, there +are people who find it easier, for instance, to put down the carriage +than to see that the small outgoings of housekeeping are more duly +regulated. It is seldom, indeed, that a wife can assist her husband save +by lightening his expenses by her prudence and economy. Too many +husbands, nowadays, can vouch for the truth of the old saying, "A woman +can throw out with a spoon faster than a man can throw in with a +shovel." The prosperity of a middle-class home depends very much on what +is saved, and the reason that this branch of a woman's business is so +neglected is that it is very difficult and very troublesome. + +"Take care of your pence and the pounds will take care of themselves," +is a maxim that was much in use when we were young. Nowadays it is more +fashionable to speak of this kind of thing as "penny wise and pound +foolish." Looking to the outgoings of pence is voted slow work, and it +is thought fine to show a languid indifference to small savings. "Such a +fuss over a pennyworth of this or that, it's not worth while." Yes, but +it is not that particular pennyworth which is alone in question, there +is the principle involved--the great principle of thrift--which must +underlie all good government. The heads of households little think of +what evils they perpetuate when they shut their eyes to wasteful +practices, because it is easier to bear the cost than to prevent waste. + +The young servant trained under one careless how she uses, or rather +misuses, that which is entrusted to her, carries in her turn the +wasteful habits she has learned into another household, and trains +others in a contempt for thrifty ways, until the knowledge of how to do +things at once well and economically is entirely lost. + +We often hear it urged that it is bad for the mind of a lady to be +harassed by the petty details of small savings, and that if she can +afford to let things go easily she should not be so harassed. But under +no circumstances must any mistress of a household permit habitual waste +in such matters. When the establishment is so large as to be to a great +extent removed from the immediate supervision of the mistress, all she +can do is to keep a careful watch over every item of expenditure, and +by every means in her power to let her servants feel that it is to their +interest as well as to her own to keep within due bounds. A good cook is +always a good manager. She makes many a meal of what an inferior cook +would waste. The housekeeper should therefore insist on having good +cooking at a reasonable cost, and never keep a cook who does not make +the most of everything. In a large household a mistress cannot look +after the sifting of cinders, but she can check her coal bills, and by +observation find out in what department the waste is going on. It may +not be possible to pay periodical visits to the gas-meter to see if the +tap is turned on to the full when such force is not necessary, but she +can from quarter to quarter compare notes, or have fixed, where it is +easy for her to get at it, one of the gas-regulators now in use. And +thus, by the exercise of judicious control and supervision, the guiding +mind of the mistress will make itself felt in every department of the +household without any undue worry to herself. The mistress of a small +household who has things more under her immediate control, and whose +income, no less than her sense of moral obligation, obliges her to look +carefully after the outgoings, need not be told what a trial it is to be +constantly on the watch to prevent waste. Probably she is compelled to +leave a certain quantity of stores for general use; indeed, we doubt +very much if there is anything saved by the daily giving out of ounces +and spoonfuls of groceries, for if a servant is disposed to be +wasteful, she will be equally so with the small as the larger quantity. + +What perpetual worry is caused by seeing how soap is left in the water +until it is so soft as to have lost half its value! How many pence go in +most households in that way every week, we wonder! + +The scrubbing-brush also is left in water with the soap. A fairly good +brush costs at least two shillings, and as one so treated only lasts +half the proper time you may safely calculate that a shilling is soon +wasted in that way. Brushes of all sorts are, as a rule, most carelessly +used, and left about anyhow instead of being hung up. How much loss +there is in a year in the careless use of knives and plate! Whenever +possible both of these get into the hands of the cook. Her own tools +from neglect or misuse have become blunt or worse, and she takes the +best blade and the plated or silver spoon whenever she has a chance. + +The plate gets thrown in a heap into an earthenware bowl to be bruised +and scratched. The knives are either put insufficiently wiped through +the cleaner, which is thus spoiled and made fit rather to dirty than +clean knives, or they are left lying in hot water to have the handles +loosened and discoloured. + +Probably jars, tin boxes, and canisters are provided in sufficient +quantity to put away and keep stores properly. But for all that, as it +would seem in a most ingenious manner, loss and waste are contrived. Raw +sugar is kept in the paper until it rots through it. Macaroni, rice, and +such things are left a prey to mice or insects. The vinegar and sauce +bottles stand without the corks. Delicate things, which soon lose their +fine aroma, as tea, coffee, and spices, are kept in uncovered canisters: +the lid is first left off, then mislaid. The treacle jar stands open for +stray fingers and flies to disport themselves therein. Capers are put +away uncovered with vinegar, and when next wanted are found to be +mouldy. Perhaps the juice of a lemon has been used; the peel, instead of +being preserved, is thrown away, or left lying about till valueless. +Herbs, which should have been at once dried and sifted, are hid away in +some corner to become flavourless and dirty, and so on with every kind +of store and provision. + +It is impossible to calculate how many pennies are lost daily, in a +large number of houses, by the absolute waste of pieces of bread left to +mould or thrown out because trouble to utilise them cannot be taken. +Whoever thinks anything of the small quantities of good beer left in the +jug; it is so much easier to throw it away than put it in a bottle? Or +who will be at the trouble of boiling up that "drop" of milk, which, +nevertheless, cost a penny, and would make, or help to make, a small +pudding for the next day? Then, again, how many bits of fat and suet are +lost because it is too much trouble to melt down the first, and preserve +the other by very simple and effectual means? + +Butter in summer is allowed to remain melting in the paper in which it +is sent in, or perhaps it is put on a plate, to which some pennyworths +of the costly stuff will stick and be lost. One would think it would be +as easy at once to put it into cold salted water, if better means of +cooling could not be used. + +If we pause here, it is not because we have exhausted the list of things +most woefully wasted, mainly from want of thought, but because we have +not space to enumerate more of them. We can only add that the importance +of small household savings cannot well be overrated, both because of the +principle involved and because of the substantial sum they represent +together. There is no need in any household for even a penny a day to be +wasted; and yet if we look closely into things, how much money value is +lost daily in some one or other of the ways we have mentioned. In the +course of the year, the daily pennies mount up to many pounds, and we +are sure that it is much safer once in a way lavishly to spend the +shillings than to be habitually careless of the outgoings of the pence. + +Although it is not necessary that the mistress of a household who can +afford to keep servants should herself do the cooking, or spend much +time in her kitchen, it is absolutely necessary that she should +understand the best methods, and know how everything should be done. + +Many people will say that it is unbecoming for women to be _gourmands_; +we agree with them, and that it is equally unbecoming for men to be so. +But to be a _gourmet_ is another thing; and we ought not to lose sight +of the fact that food eaten with real enjoyment and the satisfaction +which accompanies a well-prepared meal, is greatly enhanced in value. +Professor C. Voit has clearly pointed out, in his experiments and +researches into diet, the great value of palatable food as nourishment, +and how indispensable is a certain variety in our meals. "We think," he +says, "we are only tickling the palate, and that it is nothing to the +stomach and digestive organs whether food is agreeable to the palate or +not, since they will digest it, if it is digestible at all. But it is +not so indifferent after all, for the nerves of the tongue are connected +with other nerves and with nerve-centres, so that the pleasure of the +palate, or some pleasure, at any rate, even if it is only imagination, +which can only originate in the central organ--the brain--often has an +active effect on other organs. This is a matter of daily experience. +Without the secretion of gastric juice the assimilation of nourishment +would be impossible. If, therefore, some provocatives induce and +increase certain sensations and useful processes, they are of essential +value to health, and it is no bad economy to spend something on them." + +It is surely somewhat singular that Englishwomen, who have excelled in +almost every other craft, should be remarkable for their want of skill +in cookery. They have not been dismayed by any difficulties in +literature, art, or science, and yet how few are there among us who can +make a dish of porridge like a Scotchwoman, or an omelette like a +Frenchwoman! The fact would seem to be, that educated women having +disdained to occupy themselves either theoretically or practically with +cookery, those whose legitimate business it has been have become +indifferent also. The whole aim of the modern British cook seems to be +to save herself trouble, and she will give as much time and thought to +finding out ways of doing things in a slovenly manner as would go to +doing them properly. + +No doubt cooks have often so much work of other kinds to do that they +cannot give the necessary time to cooking. In a case of this kind, the +mistress should herself give such help as she can, and bring up her +daughters to help in the kitchen. People in middle-class life often +expect the cook to do all the kitchen work, and frequently some of the +house work. Of course, in small families, this is quite possible to be +done, and it is always best for servants, as for other people, to be +fully employed. But in large families it is impossible the cooking can +be properly done, when the cook is harassed by so many other +occupations. Thus, because it takes less time and attention than cooking +smaller dishes, huge pieces of meat are roasted or boiled daily, and the +leg-of-mutton style of dietary is perpetuated--declared to be the most +economical, and, in short, the best for all the world. + +Probably it is because bread and butter can be bought ready made, and +involve no trouble, that they are held to be the chief necessaries of +life in every English household. Some children almost live, if they do +not thrive, on bread and butter. Thoughtless housekeepers think they +have done their duty when they have seen that a sufficient supply of +these articles has been sent in from the shops. When we insist that +everyone should have home-baked bread, at once we shall be met with the +"penny-wise" suggestion that home-baked bread costs more than baker's, +because, being so nice, people eat more of it. Good bread, we need not +say, is far more nourishing than that which is made from inferior +materials or adulterated even with non-injurious substances for wheaten +flour. Then all the other difficulties come to the fore: cook spoils the +bakings, the oven is not suitable, and so on. To all these we answer: A +good housekeeper, one who looks beyond the sum total of her weekly +bills, who thinks no trouble too great to provide such food as will +maintain the health of her family, will have home-baked bread. + +There are other points in domestic management which do not receive the +attention they deserve. Of these we may cite the use of labour-saving +machines and of gas for cooking. + +How often do we hear it said: "I always have such and such a thing done +in that way, because it was my mother's way!" + +This may be very nice and very natural, but it is nevertheless a +sentimental reason. What should we think of a person who insisted on +riding pillion, because her mother rode pillion? Yet, this really is +pretty much the same thing as we see every day, when ladies are so +wedded to old ways that they persist in employing the rough-and-ready +implements of domestic use, the pattern whereof has been handed down +from the Ark, instead of modern and scientific inventions which save +both time and trouble. In no other department of the national life have +the people been so slow to adopt simple machinery as in that of the +household. + +It is alleged, in the first place, that labour-saving machines are +expensive; in the next place, that servants do not understand them, and +that they are always getting out of order. + +As to the first objection, we would say that as these machines--we speak +only, of course, of really good machines--are made, not only with the +object of saving labour, but material, the original cost of them is in a +short time repaid. As regards the second objection, it seems +incomprehensible that servants should not use with care and +thoughtfulness machines, which not only save time and trouble, but +greatly help in making their work perfect. + +There is no doubt that by the more general adoption of machinery +household work would be much lightened, and that if there were a demand +for it, enterprise would be much stimulated, and many more useful helps +would be produced. As it is, manufacturers hesitate to bring out new +inventions at a great expense, when there is a doubt of securing the +appreciation of the public. + +Only the other day we were inquiring for a little machine we had seen +years ago, and were told by the maker that, "like many other useful +things, it had been shelved by the public, and ultimately lost." + +Let us take the case of making bread at home. By the use of a little +simple dough-mixing machine, supplied by Kent, 199, High Holborn, the +operation is easy, quick, cleanly, and certain. We have had one of these +in use for more than ten years, and during that time have never had a +bad batch of bread. Not only in this machine do we make ten to eleven +pounds of dough in five minutes, but the kneading is most perfectly +done, and there is the great advantage of securing perfect cleanliness, +the hands not being used at all in the process. Yet we do not suppose +that any number of the people who have admired the bread have set up the +machine. It cannot be the cost of the machine, as it is inconsiderable, +which prevents its more general use, since in households where expense +is not an object the primitive process is still in vogue. + +Many people imagine that washing machines are only needed in large +families where all the washing is got up at home. But, if ever so small +or only an occasional wash is done, there is no exaggerating the comfort +and advantage of a machine which washes, wrings, and mangles. So far +from injuring linen, machines of the best kind wear it far less than +rough hand labour, and with reasonable care it will be found that +delicate fabrics are not split in the wringing by a good machine, as +they so frequently are by the hand. + +Then there is the case of the knife-cleaning machine. There are families +who, instead of using one, employ a boy to ruin their knives by rubbing +them on a board with Bath brick. They do so, they will tell you, +"because machines wear out the knives." The slightest acquaintance with +the mechanism of a good knife-cleaning machine should suffice to show +that the brushes cannot wear out the knives, whereas the action of the +board and brick is the most destructive that can be imagined. The +objection of undue wear being disposed of, we are told that the machines +soon get out of order, and are a constant expense. Of course, with +careless usage anything will come to grief, but the fact remains that +Kent, the leading manufacturer of knife-cleaners, has published a +certificate from a lady who has had in constant use, for thirty years, +one of his machines, which during that time has required no repairs. As +to knives, we know of some which have been cleaned daily for twenty-five +years in a machine, and are very little the worse for wear. + +Dressmakers tell us that, but for the sewing machine, an elaborate style +of trimming ladies' dresses would be impossible. We know that many +inexpensive delicacies, which it is not practicable to have now because +of the time and trouble they require, could easily be managed by the use +of little articles of domestic machinery. For instance, take potted +meat. There is the excellent Combination Mincer, also Kent's, by which +this is rapidly and perfectly done, and which enables cooks to use up +many scraps of material in a most acceptable way, and without the labour +of the pestle and mortar. This machine, however, is but little known. It +costs but a sovereign, is useful for all mincing purposes, and makes +the best sausages in the world. + +To make sausages properly, a machine must have an adjustment of the +cutters by which the sinews of the meat and bits of skin are retained on +them, as nothing is so unpleasant as to find these when eating the +sausages. Thus it will be seen how necessary it is, in setting up +machinery which should last a lifetime, to have the best inventions in +the market. Not very long ago, a friend asked our opinion on the merits +of the different makers of knife-cleaning machines. We explained to her +the mechanism of the best of them, pointed out the superior workmanship, +and that she should not grudge the money to have one which would do its +work properly and be durable. Probably under the impression that "in the +multitude of counsellors there is wisdom," our friend made further +inquiries, and ended by buying a much-advertised machine which, she was +assured, was better and cheaper than that of Kent, the original +patentee. When she had the machine home, and calculated, together with +the cost of carriage, her own expenses in going to London to choose it, +she found that she had saved exactly eighteenpence, and then that her +bargain would not clean the knives! + +The prejudices which for a long time existed against cooking by gas have +gradually cleared away now that improved stoves have been introduced, +and the public have experience of its many advantages. There are yet +some difficulties to be met in bringing gas into more general use, one +of which, the high price charged for it, is beyond the control of the +housekeeper, and another, that of teaching servants to be economical and +careful in its use. When this last can be overcome, even with the first +named drawback, gas will not be found more expensive than coal. The cost +of wood, of sweeping the chimney, and the extra wear and tear occasioned +by the soot, smoke, and dust of a coal fire, must be calculated in +addition to the fuel itself. + +It will be seen, when we say that the entire cooking for a small family +having late dinners, bread baked, and much water heated, is done for +something under 2 pounds a quarter, that gas as a fuel is not so great +an extravagance after all. The stove used has the oven lined with a +non-conducting substance, which has the advantage of keeping the heat +within instead of sending it into the kitchen, as stoves made only of +iron plates are apt to do. We have but space to add that the benefit to +health, the cleanliness, the saving of time, labour, and temper, to say +nothing of the superiority of cooking done by gas in such a stove as has +been described, can only be fully appreciated by those who, like the +writer, have had twenty years' experience of all these advantages. + + + + +NEW ZEALAND FROZEN MUTTON. + +*** + + +The high price at which meat has stood for some years has made it +necessary for the working classes to restrict themselves to a scanty +allowance of animal food, and this often of poor quality. The difficulty +of providing joints of meat for their families has, indeed, also been +felt severely by people who are comparatively well-to-do. Under these +circumstances capitalists have thought it worth a considerable +investment of money to discover some means of bringing the cheap and +magnificent supplies of New Zealand into the English market. After many +failures, success has at length crowned the enterprise, and nothing can +exceed the perfection in which New Zealand mutton is now placed on the +English market. It is universally admitted that the meat, both as +respects its nutritive value and its flavour, is unsurpassed, while the +price is very moderate. The same remarks apply to New Zealand lamb. It +commences to arrive in January, and is in the height of its season when +our English lamb is a luxury which can only be enjoyed by the few. + +Nelson Brothers, Limited, stand foremost among the importers of this +invaluable food supply. The mutton and lamb selected by them is of the +highest quality, and their system of refrigeration is perfect. In summer +these New Zealand meats have a great advantage over the home supply, as +although in keeping they may lose colour, they remain good and sweet +much longer than English-killed meat. + +The Company have large refrigerating stores under Cannon Street Station +capable of holding some 70,000 sheep, and have recently erected stores +of _treble that capacity_ at Nelson's Wharf, Commercial Road, Lambeth, +wherein the latest improvements both as regards construction and +refrigerating machinery have been adopted, in order to facilitate the +development of the frozen meat trade. + +NELSON BROTHERS have also Branch Offices at-- + + 15_a_, RICHMOND STREET, LIVERPOOL. + LEASE LANE, BIRMINGHAM. + LAWNS LANE, LEEDS. + THE ABATTOIRS, MANCHESTER. + BALTIC CHAMBERS, NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. + TRESILLIAN TERRACE, CARDIFF. + +If any of our readers are anxious to try the meat, and are unable to +procure it, a postcard to the Head Office, 15, Dowgate Hill, London, +E.C., or to any of the Branch Offices, will at once put them in the way +of carrying out their desire. + +As it occasionally happens that from want of some little precaution New +Zealand meat does not come to table in its best condition, we offer the +following hints for the treatment of it: + +Frozen mutton, like that which is freshly killed, requires to be hung a +certain time--this is most essential to remember, otherwise the meat +eats hard and tough--and it is important to observe, both when hanging +and roasting, that it is so placed that the juice shall not run out of +the cut end. Hind-quarters, haunches, and legs should be hung with the +knuckle end downwards; loins and saddles by the flaps, thus giving them +a horizontal position. The meat in winter should be kept in the kitchen +some time before cooking, and after being exposed for a few minutes to a +rapid heat in order to seal up and keep the gravy in the joint, it +should be cooked rather slowly, thus taking a little more time than is +usually given to English meat. + + + + +INDEX. + +*** + + +PAGE + + +ALBUMEN, 10 + + +BEEF TEA, 12 + " " as a solid, 15 + +BEVERAGES, 93 + Badminton Cup, 94 + Champagne Cup, 94 + Cherry Cup, 94 + Cider Cup, 94 + Citric Acid, 97 + Claret Cup, 93 + Ginger, an Extract of, for family use, 95 + Gingerade, 95 + Lemon, Essence of, 97 + " Syrup, 96 + Lemonade, 94 + " (a new recipe), 95 + Milk, 96 + Port Wine, Mulled, 94 + +BLANC-MANGE, 79 + + +CAKES, 85 + Almond Paste, 92 + Chocolate, 90 + Cocoa-nut, 89 + " Rock, 90 + Macaroons, 89 + Pound, 87 + " Plain, 87 + Savoy Sponge, 88 + " " Lemon, 88 + Sugar Icing, 90 + +CITRIC ACID, 9 + +CREAMS, 74 + Apricot, 76 + Champagne, 83 + Charlotte Russe, 79 + Cheese and Macaroni, 81 + Cherry, 80 + Chocolate, 82 + Coffee, 81 + Fig, 83 + Fruit, 78 + Italian, 81 + Lemon, 75 + " Imitation, 76 + Mandarin, 78 + Orange, 76 + " Mousse, 83 + Oranges, Chartreuse of, 82 + Palace, 77 + Pineapple, 77 + Strawberry, 75 + " Trifle, 84 + Syllabub, Solid, 79 + Velvet, 80 + Whipped, 84 + + +ESSENCES-- + Almonds, 9 + Lemon, 9 + Vanilla, 9 + +EXTRACT OF MEAT, 10 + + +FISH, LITTLE DISHES OF, 22 + Cod Cutlets, 26 + Eels, Collared, 30 + Fish, Galantine of, 28 + Herrings, Fried, 27 + " Rolled, 27 + Sole, Filleted, 24 + " Fillets of, en Aspic, 29 + " " Fried, 25 + " " Sautes, 25 + " " with Lobster, 25 + " Fried, 23 + Whiting, Baked, 26 + +FLUMMERY, DUTCH, 72 + + +GELATINE, 13 + " How to use, 64 + + +HOUSEKEEPING, HINTS ON, 105 + + +JELLIES, NELSON'S BOTTLED-- + Calf's Foot, 8 + Cherry, 8 + Lemon, 8 + Orange, 8 + Port, 8 + Sherry, 8 + +JELLIES, TABLET, 8 + +JELLY-MAKING, ON, 61 + Jelly, Apple, 69 + " Aspic, 72 + " Brilliant, 65 + " Claret, 67 + " Cocoa, 68 + " Coffee, 68 + " Economical, 65 + " Orange Fruit, 69 + " Oranges filled with, 69 + " Ribbon, 66 + " Strengthening, 71 + " with Fruit, 66 + Jelly-bag, how to make a, 73 + +JELLY-JUBES, 10 + + +LEMON SPONGE, 9, 70 + +LOZENGES-- + Gelatine, 9 + Licorice, 10 + + +MACARONI, ETC., 98 + Canapes au Parmesan, 101 + Cheese, Boiled, 101 + Eggs, Scalloped, 102 + Macaroni Cheese, 99 + " Stewed, 100 + " Sweet, 100 + " with Bacon, 99 + " " Cheese, 98 + " " Onions, 100 + " " Tomatoes, 100 + Mushrooms with Cream Sauce, 103 + Rice, to Boil (a black man's recipe), 103 + Rice with Parmesan Cheese, 101 + Scotch Woodcock, 102 + Vegetables, to Mince, 104 + +MEAT, LITTLE DISHES OF, 31 + Brain Fritters, 35 + Chicken, Brown Fricassee of, 42 + Chicken Saute, 43 + " in Aspic Jelly, 36 + Croquettes, 44 + Curry, Dry, 44 + Kidneys, Broiled, 39 + " Sautes, 37 + " with Mushrooms, 38 + " with Piccalilli, 39 + Lamb's Fry, 40 + " Sweetbreads, 41 + Marrow Toast, 35 + Meat Cakes a l'Italienne, 45 + Mutton, Cold, Potted, 33 + " Collops, 33 + " Cutlets, 31 + " Pies, 34 + " Roulades of, 32 + " Saute, 33 + Ox Brain, 34 + Pork Pie, Raised, 46 + Potato Hash, 43 + Sausages, Pork, 47 + Veal a la Casserole, 41 + Veal and Ham Pie, 47 + Veal Cutlets in White Sauce, 37 + +MUTTON, NEW ZEALAND FROZEN, 119 + + +PUDDINGS, 50 + Apple Fool, 59 + " Meringue, 60 + Baden-Baden, 80 + Brandy Sauce, 53 + Cabinet, 53 + Capital, The, 57 + Cheesecake, Welsh, 58 + Chocolate, 56 + Cocoa-nut, 56 + Compote of Apples with Fried Bread, 59 + Compote of Prunes, 60 + Custard, 50 + Duchess of Fife's, 58 + Fritters, Italian, 58 + Jubilee, 55 + Natal, 55 + Omelet, Friar's, 58 + " Souffle, 52 + Pears, Stewed, with Rice, 60 + Queen's, 56 + Raspberry and Currant, 57 + Souffle, 51 + Sponge Souffle, 53 + Vanilla Rusk, 54 + Warwickshire, 54 + + +SOUPS, 11, 14 + Artichoke, Brown, 19 + Beef and Onion, 14 + Beef, Lentil, and Vegetable, 15 + Beef, Pea, and Vegetable, 15 + Glaze, 21 + Gravy, 21 + Hare, 17 + Julienne, 16 + Mulligatawny, 18 + " Nelson's, 14 + " Thin, 18 + Rabbit, Brown; Clear, 17 + Turtle, 19 + " Mock, 21 + Vermicelli, Clear, 16 + + +TINNED MEATS, 12 + +[Illustration: TRADE MARK.] + +*** + +CHARLES DICKENS AND EVANS, CRYSTAL PALACE PRESS. + + +[Illustration: By Royal Letters Patent.] + +For First Class Jellies + +*** + +NELSON'S + +OPAQUE GELATINE + +SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED. + +See Recipe, Page 65. + +*** + +NELSON'S + +TABLET JELLIES. + +_Orange, Lemon, Calf's Foot, Cherry, Raspberry, Vanilla, Apricot, Pear, +Apple, Black Currant, Pine Apple, Noyeau, etc._ + +Quarts, 9d.; Pints, 6d.; Half-Pints, 3d. + +*** + +WINE TABLET JELLIES. + +_Port, Sherry, Orange._ + +Pints only, 9d. + +These new Jellies are perfectly pure and wholesome, and the flavours +excellent, while their exceeding cheapness brings them within the reach +of all classes. + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +[Illustration: By Royal Letters Patent.] + +*** + +NELSON'S SOUPS. + +These Soups are already thoroughly cooked and seasoned, and can be +prepared for the table in a few minutes. + +*** + +BEEF AND CARROTS. + +BEEF AND CELERY. + +BEEF AND ONIONS. + +MULLIGATAWNY. + +In Pint Packets, 6d. each. + +*** + +BEEF, PEAS, AND VEGETABLES. + +BEEF, LENTILS, AND VEGETABLES. + +In Quart Packets, 6d. each. + +*** + +Penny Packets of Soup for charitable purposes. + +*** + +NELSON'S + +EXTRACT OF MEAT, + +FOR MAKING AND IMPROVING + +SOUPS, GRAVIES, BEEF-TEA, etc., etc. + +*** + +In Ounce Packets, 4d. each, and 1 lb. Tins, 5s. each. + +NOTE. + +One packet is sufficient for a Pint of Strong Soup. + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +[Illustration: By Royal Letters Patent.] + +NOTICE. + +*** + +On RECEIPT of POSTAL ORDER for 2/6 + +A BOX CONTAINING SAMPLES OF + +NELSON'S SPECIALITIES + +AND A COPY OF + +"NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS," + +Will be sent, CARRIAGE PAID, to any address in the United Kingdom, by + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO., LIMITED, + +14, Dowgate Hill, London, E.C. + +*** + +May also be obtained through any Grocer at the same price. + +*** + +_N.B.--A Copy of "Home Comforts" will be sent, gratis, on receipt of +Penny Postage Stamp._ + +*** + +G. NELSON, DALE, & CO, Ltd., 14, Dowgate Hill, London. + + +[Transcriber's Note: + +Minor punctuation errors have been corrected without note. + +The title page, originally following three pages of advertisements, has +been moved to the beginning of the book. + +The following corrections and changes were also made: + +*p. 12: fibrine to fibrin (the fibrin of the meat) + +*p. 17: entree italicized to match other instances + +*p. 33: liitle to little (Season with a little pepper) + +*p. 122, Index: em-dash added to end of JELLIES, NELSON'S BOTTLED to +match similar entries + +Inconsistencies in hyphenation (e.g. sugar-syrup vs. sugar syrup, +overnight vs. over-night) and variant spellings (e.g. omelette vs. +omelet) have not been corrected. + +For the ASCII version, the degree symbol was changed to "deg." and the +pound sign (preceding the digit) has been changed to the word "pounds" +(succeeding the digit). Also, acute accents were removed from the +following words: entree(s), Souffle, SOUFFLE, fricassee, Fricassee, +FRICASSEE, puree, saute(s), Saute(s), SAUTE(S), Cafe, canapes, Canapes, +CANAPES, fecule, glace, rechauffe, and grave accents removed from the +words a and A (e.g. a l'Italienne, A LA CASSEROLE). Circumflexes in the +word Compote were also removed.] + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Nelson's Home Comforts, by Mary Hooper + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NELSON'S HOME COMFORTS *** + +***** This file should be named 29519.txt or 29519.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/5/1/29519/ + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Lindy Walsh, S.D., and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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