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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cornish Riviera, by Sidney Heath
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Cornish Riviera
+
+Author: Sidney Heath
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2009 [EBook #28609]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CORNISH RIVIERA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+
+Described by SIDNEY HEATH
+
+Pictured by E. W. HASLEHUST
+
+[Illustration]
+
+BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED
+
+LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO FOWEY HARBOUR]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND
+
+_VOLUMES READY_
+
+
+BATH AND WELLS
+BOURNEMOUTH AND CHRISTCHURCH
+CAMBRIDGE
+CANTERBURY
+CHESTER AND THE DEE
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+DARTMOOR
+DICKENS-LAND
+THE DUKERIES
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+EXETER
+FOLKESTONE AND DOVER
+HAMPTON COURT
+HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+HEREFORD AND THE WYE
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT
+THE NEW FOREST
+NORWICH AND THE BROADS
+OXFORD
+THE PEAK DISTRICT
+RIPON AND HARROGATE
+SCARBOROUGH
+SHAKESPEARE-LAND
+SWANAGE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+THE THAMES
+WARWICK AND LEAMINGTON
+THE HEART OF WESSEX
+WINCHESTER
+WINDSOR CASTLE
+YORK
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL IRELAND
+
+LEINSTER
+ULSTER
+MUNSTER
+CONNAUGHT
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL SWITZERLAND
+
+LUCERNE
+VILLARS AND CHAMPERY
+CHAMONIX
+LAUSANNE AND ITS ENVIRONS
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                                         Page
+Entrance to Fowey Harbour      _Frontispiece_
+
+Truro Cathedral from the River              8
+
+Polruan                                    14
+
+The Harbour, Fowey                         20
+
+View of Falmouth Harbour                   26
+
+St. Michael's Mount                        32
+
+On the Lerryn River                        38
+
+Penzance from Newlyn Harbour               42
+
+In the Harbour, Newlyn                     46
+
+Land's End                                 50
+
+In St. Ives Harbour                        54
+
+The Cliffs, Newquay                        58
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+
+
+
+
+PLYMOUTH TO LAND'S END
+
+     "By Tre, Pol, and Pen,
+     You may know the Cornishmen."
+
+
+The majority of our English counties possess some special feature, some
+particular attraction which acts as a lodestone for tourists, in the
+form of a stately cathedral, striking physical beauty, or a wealth of
+historical or literary associations. There are large districts of rural
+England that would have remained practically unknown to the multitude
+had it not been for their possession of some superb architectural
+creation, or for the fame bestowed upon the district by the makers of
+literature and art. The Bard of Avon was perhaps the unconscious pioneer
+in the way of providing his native town and county with a valuable asset
+of this kind. The novels of Scott drew thousands of his readers to the
+North Country, and those of R. D. Blackmore did the same for the scenes
+so graphically depicted in _Lorna Doone_; while Thomas Hardy is probably
+responsible for half the number of tourists who visit Dorset.
+
+Cornwall, on the contrary, is unique, in that, despite its wealth of
+Celtic saints, crosses, and holy wells, it does not possess any
+overwhelming attractions in the way of physical beauty (the coast line
+excepted), literary associations, beautiful and fashionable spas, or
+mediæval cathedrals.
+
+History, legends, folklore, and traditions it has in abundance, while
+probably no portion of south-west England is so rich in memorials of the
+Celtic era. At the same time one can quite understand how it was that,
+until comparatively recent years, the Duchy land was visited by few
+tourists, as we count them to-day; and why the natives should think and
+speak of England as a distant, and indeed a foreign, country. Certain is
+it that less than a quarter of a century ago those who crossed the Tamar
+and journeyed westward into the sparsely populated Cornish towns and
+villages, were hailed as "visitors from England".
+
+Bounded on the north and south by the sea, cut off on the east by the
+Tamar, the delectable Duchy was a singularly isolated strip of land
+until the magic connecting link was forged by Brunel. Indeed it is not
+too much to say that Cornwall owes its present favourable position as a
+health resort almost entirely to the genius of Brunel and the enterprise
+of the Great Western Railway.
+
+The lateness of the railway development of Cornwall is somewhat
+remarkable when we remember that the county contained, in the
+picturesque Bodmin and Wadebridge Railway, the third line opened for
+passenger traffic in the kingdom. A quarter of a century later Plymouth
+was connected with the outer world, but for long after the historic
+ports and towns of the southern seaboard had been gradually linked up,
+the splendid isolation of the northern coast remained until
+comparatively recent years. It is but a short time ago that the only way
+of reaching Newquay was by means of a single mineral line that ran from
+Par Junction. Contrast this with the present day, when there is a choice
+of no less than five trains by which passengers can travel from
+Paddington to Newquay, to say nothing of the morning coach which meets
+the South Western train from Waterloo at Wadebridge. The famous Cornish
+Riviera expresses, that do the journey from Paddington to Penzance in a
+few hours, have become a familiar feature to those who live in the
+western counties, and few seaside resorts, situated three hundred miles
+from London, are so favoured by railway enterprise as the beauty spots
+of Cornwall.
+
+This is essentially a county that is best toured by railway. The places
+and towns most worth visiting lie far apart, and are divided by a good
+deal of pleasant but not very interesting country, and one can obtain a
+more than sufficient amount of walking along the vast stretch of
+seaboard.
+
+The line from Plymouth to Truro crosses the fine estuary of the Tamar
+upon the Albert Bridge, one of Brunel's triumphs, and runs along the
+northern bank of the river Lynher. Almost at the head of the river is
+St. Germans, where, for those who can spare the time, a stay of a few
+hours may be profitably made. According to tradition it derives its name
+from St. Germanus, Bishop of Auxerre, who visited Britain in 429, and
+again in 447. From 850 to 1049 the town was the seat of the bishopric of
+Cornwall, which was afterwards incorporated in the see of Devon. The
+church is a good one with an ancient porch highly enriched with carvings
+and traceries. The greater part of the present building dates from 1261,
+and it occupies the site of the ancient Cornish cathedral.
+
+[Illustration: TRURO CATHEDRAL FROM THE RIVER]
+
+The fine ancestral home of Port Eliot, the residence of Lord St.
+Germans, was formerly called Porth Prior, from an Anglo-Saxon religious
+house granted to Richard Eliot in 1565, but of this original building no
+trace whatever remains above the ground. Within the house are some good
+portraits of the Eliots, including a large number by Sir Joshua
+Reynolds.
+
+From St. Germans our journey lies through pleasant vales and wooded
+hills to Liskeard, a quiet little market town situated partly on the
+slope of a steep hill, and partly in a valley traversed by the Looe and
+Liskeard Canal. The district abounds in mysterious piles of rock such as
+the Trethevy Stone, and the Hurlers; while the student of folklore will
+not fail to be attracted by the sacred wells of St. Keyne and St. Cleer.
+The latter was used formerly as a Bowssening Pool, and held in great
+repute for its efficacy in restoring the insane to "mens sana in corpore
+sano". Not far away is the interesting church of St. Neots', with a
+quantity of very fine mediæval glass.
+
+The site of the old castle of Liskeard is preserved to some extent in a
+tree-planted public walk, while in the ancient Grammar School, "Peter
+Pindar" (Dr. Wolcot) and the learned Dean Prideaux received their
+education. St. Martin's Church has a set of curious gargoyles, while
+portions of a nunnery, dedicated to St. Clare, are said to have been
+built into the walls of one of the houses. In 1644, during the Civil
+War, Charles I was here, and again in the following year.
+
+From Liskeard, Looe may be reached either by rail, road, or canal. The
+road passes St. Keyne, where the waters of the well are said to possess
+a remarkable property, according to Thomas Fuller, who says, "whether
+husband or wife came first to drink thereof, they get the mastery
+thereby". The well has been immortalized in Southey's well-known ballad,
+_The Well of St. Keyne_.
+
+
+     "A well there is in the west countrie,
+       And a clearer one never was seen,
+     There is not a wife in the west countrie
+       But has heard of the well of St. Keyne."
+
+
+The ballad goes on to relate that a traveller, sitting beside the well,
+met a countryman, with whom he had a long chat about its tradition:
+
+
+     "'You drank of the water, I warrant, betimes,'
+       He to the countryman said;
+     But the countryman smiled as the stranger spoke,
+       And sheepishly shook his head.
+
+     "'I hastened as soon as the wedding was o'er,
+       And left my good wife in the porch;
+     But faith! she had been quicker than I,
+       For she took a bottle to church!'"
+
+
+St. Keyne or St. Keyna, the tutelary saint of this well, is said to have
+been a pious virgin, the daughter of Braganus, Prince of Brecknockshire,
+who lived about the year 490. She is also said to have made a pilgrimage
+to St. Michael's Mount, and to have founded a religious establishment
+there.
+
+Two miles in a southerly direction is Duloe, where some upright stones
+have been conjectured to be portions of a druidical circle some
+twenty-eight feet in diameter. A little to the west of the twin villages
+of East and West Looe is Trelawne, an ancient seat of the Trelawny
+family; but the house is not shown to visitors, although a request to
+view the fine collection of pictures, which includes a portrait by
+Kneller, is generally granted. Kneller's portrait is of the famous
+bishop, Sir Jonathan Trelawny, whose counterfeit presentment recalls the
+stirring times when every Cornish village echoed with the defiant
+strain:
+
+
+     "And shall Trelawny die? and shall Trelawny die?
+     There's thirty thousand underground shall know the reason why.
+     And shall they scorn Tre, Pol, and Pen? and shall Trelawny die?
+     There's thirty thousand Cornish boys will know the reason why.
+     Trelawny he's in keep, and hold; Trelawny he may die,
+     But thirty thousand Cornish men will know the reason why?"
+
+
+The villages of East and West Looe are among the most picturesque on the
+southern seaboard. The estuary on the sides of which they are situated,
+is confined between lofty hills whose slopes are covered with allotment
+gardens and orchards. The bridge that crosses the creek a quarter of a
+mile from the haven mouth, was erected in 1855, when it displaced a
+remarkable old bridge of fifteen arches. In the days of the third Edward
+the combined Looes furnished twenty ships and a contingent of 315 men
+for the siege of Calais.
+
+Some delightful boating excursions may be made from Looe, the one most
+in favour being that to Watergate up the West Looe river, which unites
+with the main stream half a mile above the town. The stream winds among
+lofty hills, covered with rich and abundant verdure.
+
+The ancient Guildhall of West Looe, said to have been built originally
+as a monastic chapel, is a picturesque old building, the framework of
+which is composed of ships' beams. The cage for scolds has disappeared,
+but the stocks, of a very barbarous kind, have been placed across an
+open gable. The building was re-consecrated in 1852, since when services
+have been regularly held within it.
+
+The eleven miles that separate Fowey from Looe should be traversed on
+foot by way of Talland, Polperro, and Polruan. Talland Church is
+delightfully placed, while its tower is connected with the main building
+by means of a porch. The bench ends within are very interesting,
+particularly a set with finials in the form of winged figures
+administering the Eucharist. These pew ends are quite unlike any others
+in the country, and they are somewhat of an ecclesiastical puzzle. From
+Talland a rocky coast walk of less than two miles leads to Polperro,
+with the narrowest of all the narrow little ravines that offer shelter
+to the mariner on this exposed portion of the coast. The antiquary
+Leland describes it as "a little fischar towne with a peere". It is an
+extraordinary jumble of habitations which press upon each other so
+closely that it is only by wriggling through the narrow streets and
+turnings that one can make any progress at all.
+
+There is no coast track west of Polperro and both the roads to Fowey are
+very hilly. The pedestrian should proceed by way of Lansallos, where the
+church in the Perpendicular style forms a conspicuous sea-mark. From
+Polruan the descent to Fowey is very steep, but the view of the harbour
+from the high land is one of great charm.
+
+As we look at the little stranded and sunlit port to-day, it is
+difficult to realize that Fowey once shared with Plymouth and Dartmouth
+the maritime honours of the south-west coast. In those days Looe,
+Penryn, and Truro were regarded as creeks under Fowey. The harbour,
+which is navigable as far as Lostwithiel, a distance of eight miles, is
+formed mainly by the estuary of the river Fowey, the town stretching
+along the western bank of the harbour for a mile.
+
+Seen for the first time Fowey is a revelation. Much known and rather too
+much visited, it is yet one of Cornwall's most picturesque and
+interesting towns. Nature and art have combined to make it so; the art
+of the old village builder, not the so-called art of to-day. A modern
+element exists, but it is of small proportions. May it always remain so.
+
+Standing on the heights one looks down upon the river below. On either
+side is a jumble of ancient houses with leaning and weather-stained
+walls. It is doubtful if we ought to admire such ill-ventilated and
+out-of-date dwelling houses, in this essentially scientific age. But the
+general effect of line, of light and shade produced by a mass of broken
+and highly unconventional contours--gables where there should be
+chimneys, and chimneys where one is accustomed to look for doorposts--is
+highly satisfactory and pleasing from the artist's point of view.
+
+Steep hills and zigzag roads, at every alarming angle of declivity,
+intercept the labyrinth of houses, which stand on each other's heads, or
+peep over each other's shoulders, and settle down on the ledges of the
+river bank.
+
+[Illustration: POLRUAN]
+
+As the principal Cornish seaport, the town sent Edward III no less than
+forty-seven ships and 770 mariners for the Calais expedition--a quota
+exceeded only by the eastern port of Yarmouth. Leland tells us that the
+place rose rapidly into importance "partely by feates of warre, partely
+by pyracie; and so waxing riche felle all to marchaundize, so that the
+towne was hauntid with shippes of diverse nations, and their shippes
+went to all nations". When the Cinque Ports of Rye and Winchelsea
+threatened to oust Fowey from its position as the premier Channel port,
+the Cornishmen defeated the mariners of Kent in a desperate sea fight,
+when they quartered the arms of the Cinque Ports on their own scutcheon,
+and assumed the title of "Fowey Gallaunts". They then made war on their
+own account against the French, and became little better than pirates
+ready to attack the ships of their own and every country, in port or on
+the high seas. They became such a thorn in the side of the king, Edward
+IV, by reason of their continuing to capture French ships after peace
+had been concluded, that the angry monarch caused them to be enticed to
+Lostwithiel, where their ringleaders were taken and hanged. From this
+period Fowey's maritime position began to decline. The inhabitants were
+compelled to pay a heavy fine, and the whole of their shipping was
+handed over to the port of Dartmouth.
+
+Carew tells us that sixty ships belonged to Fowey at that period. The
+twin forts of Fowey were erected in the reign of Edward IV to protect
+the roadstead from the ravages of the French. Standing something like
+those below Dartmouth, on each side of the water, a thick boom or chain
+stretched across the mouth of the river would be sufficient protection
+against vessels propelled by sails. The last gallant action performed
+by these forts was in 1666, when they were assisted by the then almost
+new fort of St. Catherine. A Dutch fleet of eighty sail of the line was
+off the town in the hope of capturing an English fleet bound for
+Virginia, which had put into Fowey for shelter. A Dutch frigate of 74
+guns attempted to force the entrance, but after being under the
+crossfire of the forts for two hours, was forced to tack about and
+regain the open sea.
+
+Sir A. T. Quiller-Couch writes thus of Fowey in _Troy Town_. "The
+visitor," says he, "if he be of my mind, will find a charm in Fowey over
+and above its natural beauty, and what I may call its holiday
+conveniences, for the yachtsman, for the sea-fisherman, or for one
+content to idle in peaceful waters. It has a history, and carries the
+marks of it. It has also a flourishing trade and a life of its own."
+
+The church of St. Fimbarrus, almost hidden from view except from the
+harbour side, is mainly of fifteenth-century date, although portions may
+well be a century earlier. The roof of the tall tower is richly
+decorated, and the north aisle is undoubtedly the remnant of a much
+earlier edifice. There are two good brasses and some interesting
+monuments, also a memorial to Sir John Treffry, who captured the French
+standard at the battle of Poictiers.
+
+The most important piece of domestic architecture in the neighbourhood
+is Place House, the seat of the Treffry family. This is a fine Tudor
+mansion, that is said to occupy the site of a royal palace, reputed to
+have been the residence of the Earls of Cornwall. Leland records that on
+one occasion, when the French attempted to take the town, "the wife of
+Thomas Treffry with her servants, repelled their enemies out of the
+house, in her husband's absence; whereupon he builded a right faire and
+strong embattled tower in his house, and embattled it to the walls of
+his house". The ancient church also is worth a visit, and among its many
+memorials is an elaborate monument to one of the Rashleigh family,
+another of the old Cornish families, whose history seems to be as
+ancient as the legends of the county. The inscription on the tomb
+reads:--
+
+
+     "JOHN RAISHELEIGHE LYVED YEARES THREESCORE THREE
+     AND THEN DID YEILDE TO DYE,
+     HE DID BEQVEATHE HIS SOVLE TO GOD
+     HIS CORPS HEREIN TO LYE.
+
+     "THE DEVONSHEIRE HOWSE Y^t RAISHELEIGHE HEIGHT
+     WELL SHEWETH FROM WHENCE HE CAME;
+     HIS VIRTVOVS LIEF IN FOYE TOWNN
+     DESERVETH ENDLESS FAME.
+
+     "LANION HE DID TAKE TO WIFE, BY HER HAD CHILDREN STORE,
+     YET AT HIS DEATHE BOT DAVGHTERS SIXE, ONE SONNE HE HAD NOE MORE.
+     ALL THEM TO PORTRAHE VNDER HERE, BECAVSE FITTE SPACE WAS NONE,
+     THE SONNE, WHOSE ONLI ECHARGE THIS WAS, IS THEREFORE SETT ALONE."
+
+
+For the yachting man Fowey is very attractive, although during the
+season the small harbour is rather too crowded with craft. The entrance
+presents difficulties to the unexperienced amateur, but once inside the
+headlands there is usually no difficulty in securing a safe and
+convenient berth.
+
+The favourite anchorage is off Polruan, but there is deep water for a
+considerable distance beyond that straggling village.
+
+The river excursions from Fowey are full of charm, but so much depends
+on the state of the tide. The short trip by boat to Golant, a distance
+of two miles, should not be missed. The village occupies a cleft on the
+hillside, where the gardens and orchards reach down to the water's edge.
+Luxulyan, with its deep sylvan valley and large perched blocks of stone,
+is another favourite spot for excursions.
+
+At the head of the river stands Lostwithiel, with a church whose tower
+the late Mr. G. Street, R.A., was wont to designate "the pre-eminent
+glory of Cornwall". Near the church are the ruins of Restormel Castle,
+while the Fowey and the little river Lerryn are good fishing streams
+where plenty of salmon and trout fishing may be enjoyed.
+
+For the pedestrian there is a large choice of walks within a moderate
+distance, to Par Harbour, St. Blazey, and St. Austell, the last with a
+fine church, on the walls of which is a well sculptured representation
+of the Veronica. The shore rambles are equally numerous and attractive.
+
+Cornwall may be said to possess three capitals. Launceston the historic
+capital, Bodmin the town of Assize, and Truro the ecclesiastical and
+commercial centre. To reach the last named for the purposes of our
+present journey, the visitor cannot do better than take train at Par
+Junction. Truro itself cannot be said to possess much in the way of
+civic beauty or historical interest, although it is an excellent centre
+for touring purposes. Moreover it has, pending the completion of the
+fine structure in the course of erection on the banks of the Mersey, the
+honour of possessing the only Protestant Cathedral erected in this
+country since the Reformation. The name "Truro" is thought to be derived
+either from _Tru-ru_, the three streets, or _Tre-rhiw_, the village on
+the slope (of the river). There is a general impression that Truro is on
+the river Fal, but the truth is that the triangular piece of land on
+which the city stands, is washed on the east by the river Allen, and on
+the west by the Kenwyn. Between these two streams lies modern Truro,
+with its stately cathedral rising high above the houses that surround
+it. Truro's most eminent son, Samuel Foote, was born in 1720 at the town
+house of his father's family, the Footes of Lambesso. The house, now the
+Red Lion Hotel in Boscawen Street, has retained a good many of its
+original features, including a very fine oak staircase. Foote is
+generally considered to be the greatest of the dramatic authors of his
+class, while in power of mimicry and broad humour he had few equals. In
+late life he lost his leg through an accident in riding, a circumstance
+that led to his producing a play, _The Lame Lover_, in which his loss of
+a limb might be made a positive advantage. In all, his plays and
+dramatic pieces number about twenty, and he boasted at the close of his
+life that he had enriched the English stage with sixteen quite new
+characters.
+
+Truro was also the birthplace of the brothers Richard and John Lander,
+the explorers; Bode, a painter of some merit; and Richard Polwhele, the
+historian of Devon and Cornwall.
+
+[Illustration: THE HARBOUR, FOWEY]
+
+The cathedral is not entirely a modern building, for it has incorporated
+with it the south aisle of the old parish church of St. Mary, with its
+long associations with the municipality. The narrow lanes and streets
+surrounding the stately pile of buildings differ essentially from the
+gardens and canonical residences that are the pride of so many of our
+mediæval cathedrals; but they make a fitting environment for the mother
+church of a working ecclesiastical centre.
+
+Of several interesting houses in the neighbourhood the most important is
+Tregothnan, the residence of Lord Falmouth. The mansion is beautifully
+placed upon high ground, the views from which include the numerous
+wooded creeks of the lovely Fal, and the wide expanse of Falmouth
+Harbour, studded with the shipping of many nations. The house was
+designed by Wilkins, the architect of the National Gallery, and is in
+the Early English and Tudor styles.
+
+The gatehouse of Tregothnan is situated at Tresilian Bridge, the spot
+where the struggle between Charles I and Cromwell was brought to a close
+in Cornwall, by the surrender of the Royalists to General Fairfax.
+
+The ecclesiologist will find many interesting old churches in this
+neighbourhood, of which perhaps that at Probus is the most important, as
+it is the least known. The tower is over one hundred feet in height,
+being the highest in the county, and is exceptionally rich in delicate
+carvings and clustered pinnacles. The present building is mainly
+Perpendicular, but the foundation of a church here is attributed by
+tradition to Athelstan, who is said to have established a college of
+secular canons dedicated to St. Probus. The chancel screen is modern
+with the exception of the lower portion, which has been made up of the
+old fifteenth-century bench ends. A full and highly interesting account
+of this church, by Canon Fox Harvey, appeared in the _Truro Diocesan
+Magazine_ for 1905. Above the woods of Tregothnan, on the left bank of
+the Truro, stands the fourteenth-century church of St. Michael Penkivel,
+with numerous brasses to the memory of the Boscawens; while on the right
+bank of the Fal is Trelissic, a classical building whose portico is an
+exact reproduction of the temple of Erectheus at Athens.
+
+All visitors to Truro make their way to the historic port of Falmouth by
+water, when they travel along a length of river scenery that possesses
+no equal in beauty with the exception perhaps of a somewhat similar
+reach of the romantic Dart, in the adjoining county of Devon. Any
+mention of the Dart, however, as a possible rival to the Fal, is much
+resented by Cornishmen, and one that had better be left unsaid within
+the boundaries of the delectable Duchy.
+
+The old port of Falmouth is situated in a sheltered bay with the
+glittering sea beyond. Landward lie the villages of Mabe and
+Constantine, with their great granite quarries, and beyond them wide
+expanses of undulating and treeless land that is not devoid of beauty.
+Here the climate is so mild that hydrangeas become large bushes, and the
+eucalyptus attains the proportions of a forest tree. The port rose
+perhaps to its greatest height of prosperity in the days of the fourth
+George, when the famous Falmouth packets--ten-gun brigs officered by
+naval men--carried the mails to various Mediterranean ports, and to the
+North American and West Indian stations. A well preserved relic of these
+good old days may be seen at Swanpool, where, in a cottage built by
+Commander Bull, may be observed a chiselled relief of the old
+"Marlborough" packet at the top angle of the façade. As a port Falmouth
+has not kept pace with the steady growth in the size of steamships,
+although the opening of the railway to Truro set Falmouth cogitating
+great schemes in the way of spacious docks and large hotels. Some of us
+do not regret that the town's maritime ambitions have been but partially
+realized. We have many busy and flourishing seaports, but there is only
+one Falmouth, with its quaint little alleys leading to the waterside,
+inconvenient and hopelessly behind the times, yet picturesque beyond
+description and redolent of the spirit of the past. One of the most
+pleasing views of Falmouth is that obtained from the little township of
+Flushing across the harbour, once a quite fashionable suburb, but now a
+rather poor little fishing village.
+
+The excursions from Falmouth, and the places of interest that lie within
+easy reach are too numerous to mention, for their very names are an
+attraction to the inquisitive topographer. Mylor lies over the hills of
+Flushing on the beautiful waters of the Fal; St. Mawes and the fishing
+town of Gerrans are equally near; while the most hardened tourist could
+not fail to wish to visit a village endowed with the charming name of
+St. Just in Roseland.
+
+A reference should be made to the fine promontory of Pendennis, almost
+surrounded by the sea, on the summit of which stands the historic castle
+that has played no small part in our island story.
+
+There are two road routes from Falmouth to the Lizard--the regular route
+through Helston, and the other, a trifle longer, by way of the woods of
+Trelowarren, the seat of the Cornish Vyvyans. The most enjoyable way,
+however, of viewing this well-known promontory is to sail from Falmouth.
+Those who would woo the charms of the Cornish coast from the water
+should remember that even on the calmest day sailing along this exposed
+seaboard is no child's play, but a serious business. As a matter of fact
+no one who is not intimately acquainted with the coast should take a
+boat out of the harbour without an experienced man on board, and no
+amateurs should attempt unaided, to sail the lugsail boats in general
+use among the fishermen. The best boat for yachting in these waters is a
+ten or fifteen ton cutter or yawl, such as can be hired at Falmouth for
+quite a moderate sum. But the coast is a dangerous one, for although the
+morning run past the dreaded Manacles, Helford river, St. Keverne's, and
+right down to the Lizard, may present no difficulties, the return
+evening journey, with a stiff breeze from the land making a choppy sea,
+and the puzzling lights at the complicated entrance to the anchorage,
+are disturbing elements that make one feel thankful to have the skipper
+on board to guide the little craft through the maze of shipping, and
+pick up her moorings. For small boat sailing the waters of the Fal are
+ideal, but here also, as on the salt waters beyond the river mouth,
+great care is required by reason of the wind cutting down the creeks and
+gullies with practically no warning. What a halo of tragedy lies over
+the dreaded Manacles! and what wonderful escapes some fortunate vessels
+have had. The author once saw a schooner of five hundred tons thread the
+narrow channels of the needle-pointed rocks in safety, but the feat was
+regarded by his companion, an old sailor of Falmouth, as little short of
+a miracle. As a matter of fact captains who get their ships among the
+Manacles are so anxious to keep the news from reaching the owners that
+they hang a sail over the names of their ships.
+
+By a glance at the map it is obvious to anyone that no vessel going up
+or down the Channel need be within a dozen or more miles of the
+Manacles. Yet many still get there; and few are fortunate enough to get
+away without becoming total wrecks. Not only on account of nearness of
+time do the _Mohegan_ and the _Paris_ disasters take undoubted
+precedence in the Manacles' victims, but on one occasion the loss of
+life was appalling. The _Mohegan_ was a steamship of 7000 tons in charge
+of Captain Griffiths, the commodore of the Atlantic Transport Company.
+At half-past two on her second day out she signalled "All well" at
+Prawle Point. Four and a half hours later, when the light was good and
+the wind not high, she dashed into the Vase Rock, one of the outer
+Manacles, and within twenty minutes all except the upper portions of her
+masts and funnels were beneath the water. How the _City of Paris_ got on
+the rocks is equally a mystery, for she is computed to have been twenty
+miles out of her proper course when she struck, and the weather was fine
+and the night clear.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW OF FALMOUTH HARBOUR]
+
+As Mr. Albert Bluett says: "We have the uncontradicted statements of
+seamen of all classes, that the bell-buoy, fixed to one of the outer
+Manacles, is utterly inadequate to warn vessels of their nearness to
+danger. And when the sounds of that bell came in the landward breeze to
+where I stood looking across the reef, they seemed, not a message of
+warning to those who cross the deep, but as the death-knell of the
+hundreds of men, women, and children who have breathed their last in the
+sea around the Manacles."
+
+There is no doubt that generations of smugglers and wreckers existed all
+along this exposed and dangerous coast, and the lawlessness of the
+Cornish folk in such matters as smuggling, and pilfering from wrecks,
+earned for them a very unenviable reputation. The deeds of Jack
+Rattenbury, of Beer, and the daring exploits of Harry Paye, of Poole,
+fade into insignificance by comparison with the doings of John Carter,
+who was known and feared all along the wild Cornish seaboard. He was
+known locally as the "King of Prussia", owing, it is said, to his
+resemblance to Frederick the Great. Be this as it may, Bessy's Cove, a
+small bay a few miles to the west of Helston, has, since Carter's day,
+been known as Prussia Cove, a striking tribute to the power of the
+smuggler. At this cove Carter widened the harbour, fortified the
+promontory that overlooks it, and adopted the numerous caves for the
+storage of illicit cargoes. These splendid and natural storehouses may
+still be seen, together with the "King of Prussia's" house, and the
+remains of the battery he erected; for this intrepid smuggler did not
+hesitate to open fire on any of the king's ships that ventured within
+range of his guns. Carter flourished in the middle of the eighteenth
+century, and it is difficult for us to realize to-day that such a state
+of lawlessness could have existed in the days of our great-grandparents.
+
+The difficulties of patrolling the coast in the days before steamships,
+and the passive assistance he must have received from the people,
+enabled Carter to carry on a very profitable trade, although he
+naturally had many escapes from capture.
+
+Even when arrested in the act of conveying kegs of brandy to his
+customers, he appears to have found no difficulty in proving an _alibi_.
+The reason for this of course is that smuggling was regarded with more
+than toleration by the people and the gentry alike, while even the local
+administrators of justice had an interest in the ventures. The result
+was that it was impossible for the Revenue officers to obtain a
+conviction, for the magistrates regarded the flimsiest _alibi_ as excuse
+sufficient for them to set the "King of Prussia" at liberty.
+
+At length the authorities appear to have realized that the ordinary
+legal methods, as administered by the local magistracy, were quite
+useless. Accordingly a strongly armed Revenue cutter sailed for Prussia
+Cove with orders to storm the stronghold and destroy the battery. As the
+cutter's instructions were not sent through the usual local channels,
+there was no leakage of the commander's intentions, and having received
+no warning of the expedition, the smugglers were taken completely by
+surprise. As soon as the hostile intentions of the cutter were revealed,
+Carter opened a heavy fire on the small boats that conveyed the landing
+party; but after a fierce fight, in which there were heavy casualties on
+both sides, a landing was effected, and the fortress carried by storm.
+The work of dismantling the fort was considered of more importance than
+the immediate capture of the smugglers, and nothing seems to be known as
+to whether they were ever arrested and tried.
+
+For the exploration of the Lizard and Kynance districts there is no
+better centre than Helston, although those who find little to interest
+them in the interior of the peninsula may be advised to proceed direct
+to Lizard Town, as being in closer proximity to such attractive spots as
+Mullion and Cadgwith. Helston itself is an oldfashioned town that has
+not many attractions for the modern tourist. It is a borough of some
+antiquity, and once possessed a Norman castle which fell into ruin in
+the reign of Edward IV. The annual festival known as Helston Flora Day
+is generally considered to be a survival of an old Roman custom. It was
+originally held on the 8th of May, but in recent years has taken place
+on any convenient date. The greatest attraction of the place to-day is
+the Loo or Loe Pool, a large sheet of water two miles in length and five
+in circumference. This is quite one of the largest natural lakes in the
+south of England, and is a favourite resort for anglers. It is separated
+from the sea by a bar of shingle, scarcely three hundred yards wide at
+low tide. On this bar, in 1807, the _Anson_, a 40-gun ship, was wrecked,
+with a loss of sixty lives. One of the small inlets of this lake,
+Penrose Creek, is well known to botanists as the home of the little
+plant _Nitella hyalina_. The weed is found in four feet of water,
+occupying less than twelve square yards, and is not known to exist in
+any other locality in Great Britain.
+
+Mullion Cove is considered by many people to be the most beautiful spot
+along the Cornish Riviera. It certainly has many attractions for the
+artist, and its caves and crags have been photographed, sketched, and
+painted _ad nauseam_.
+
+No one with antiquarian tastes should neglect to visit the church of
+Mullion Church-town, a good Perpendicular building that was restored in
+1870. The many features of interest include portions of the old rood
+screen, and a very fine set of carved bench ends which are justly
+considered to be the richest in carving of any in the west of England.
+
+The view from the high land above the cove is one of great beauty, with
+St. Michael's Mount rising abruptly from the waters of the bay, and
+beyond it the clustered houses of Penzance.
+
+Kynance Cove is an equally charming place that lies one and a half miles
+to the north-west of the Lizard. The bay is studded with a quantity of
+scattered rocks, which rejoice in such curious names as Devil's Bellows,
+Devil's Throat, the Letter Box, &c. At Landewednack in the parish of
+Lizard Point, the last sermon in the ancient Cornish language is said to
+have been preached in 1678. The church is one of the most beautifully
+situated along these wild southern shores.
+
+The first view of Penzance from Marazion (known locally as Market Jew)
+is one that is never forgotten. Right before us, rises the famous St.
+Michael's Mount, capped with its architectural adornment; to the right
+the bay swings round in a semicircle to Penzance, beyond which is the
+harbour of Newlyn, the village that has played so great a part in the
+history of our modern school of painting.
+
+Certainly nowhere else in England is found the like of St. Michael's
+Mount, with its curious mingling of a mediæval fortress and modern
+residence; of antiquarian treasures and up-to-date conveniences. At the
+foot of the rock is a tiny harbour and a cluster of cottages, and here
+also is a kind of station for the railway, which carries coal,
+provisions, and luggage up to the top of the Mount. When the tide is out
+the Mount can be reached along a causeway, but the road is very rough
+for walking, as one would expect from its peculiar position on the bed
+of the sea.
+
+The Mount is really a pyramidical mass of granite, a mile in
+circumference, capped by a cluster of castellated buildings. The steep
+ascent up the side of the rock is commanded by a cross-wall pierced with
+embrasures, and a platform mounting two small batteries. The house
+itself has a few interesting points and an excellent chapel with some
+good details of the Decorated and Perpendicular periods. From the summit
+of the rock a superb panorama of the Cornish coast and the
+wide-spreading Channel may be obtained. The mythical legends and
+traditions that have grown up around this solitary rock bear much
+resemblance to those that are told about its French counterpart, the
+Mont St. Michel of Normandy. The romantic legends of both concern great
+heroes and super-terrestrial beings doing battle with evil dragons and
+fiendish monsters.
+
+[Illustration: ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT]
+
+The Mount is certainly a very attractive spot, and, by the kindness of
+the owner, access to the castle is generally allowed. The building has
+been much modernized during recent years, but many of its original
+features remain. Some alterations at the chapel led to the discovery of
+a blocked-up Gothic doorway, which, being opened, revealed a flight of
+stone steps terminating in a dark vault, wherein lay the skeleton of a
+man. The old refectory of the monks is the most distinctive feature of
+the present house. The Mount is a parish without a public-house, the
+only one which ever existed there having been closed a few years ago.
+
+In an old volume on Cornwall, published in 1824, we learn that "Turbot
+are caught in great plenty during the Summer Season. In Mount's Bay
+there have been instances of 30 being taken in an evening with the hook
+and line. When plentiful, they are sold from 4_d._ to 6_d._ per pound."
+Leland writes: "Penzantes about a mile from Mousehold, standing fast in
+the shore of Mount Bay, is the Westest Market Town of all Cornwall,
+Socur for botes or shypes, but a forced pere or Key. Theyr is but a
+Chapel yn the sayd towne, as ys in Newlyn, for theyr paroche Chyrches be
+more than a mile off."
+
+The neighbourhood of Penzance is rendered very attractive by the variety
+of its scenery, and the glorious bay offers unlimited opportunities for
+boating and fishing. The mother church of Penzance is that of Madron a
+short distance away. The building stands 350 feet above the sea and
+contains some old memorials, including a tombstone to the memory of
+George Daniell, a local benefactor. His epitaph reads:
+
+
+     "Belgia me birth, Britaine me breeding gave,
+     Cornwall a wife, ten children, and a grave."
+
+
+Madron Well is a chalybeate spring once in much esteem for its curative
+properties, and its prophetical powers in respect to love and marriage.
+The holy well here, situated on the moor about a mile to the north-west
+of the church, was partially destroyed during the Parliamentary wars, by
+Major Ceely of St. Ives.
+
+One of the most delightful excursions from Penzance is that to Mousehole
+and Lamorna Cove, and one for which the whole of a day should be
+allotted.
+
+While in the neighbourhood of Penzance the visitor who is fortunate
+enough to be a good sailor should not fail to make the trip to the
+Scilly Isles, although the passage is generally a trying one. The
+islands consist mainly of low rocks, covered with gorse and heather
+where their slopes are not given over to flower growing, that great
+industry of these solitary isles. The coastward sides of the downs
+terminate in granitic rocks which are a terror to navigators. Even
+under the guard of three lighthouses and a lightship, thousands of lives
+have been lost on the Scillies, and there is a prodigious litter of
+wreckage wedged in among the granite boulders. Probably the worst
+disasters were the wreck of Sir Cloudesley Shovell's fleet in 1707, and
+that of the _Schiller_ in 1875. Of the hundreds of lesser calamities
+there is no record. St. Agnes is perhaps the worst offender, and the
+lighthouse keeper there is a gloomy man. It has been fittingly said that
+his landscape of rocks must be about as enlivening to him as a square
+mile or so of tombstones.
+
+Penzance itself is a town of many attractions of the civilized order,
+and the whole of the neighbourhood is lovely. It is the most westerly
+town in England, and one that has a good deal of ancient history. The
+older part of the town, lying between Market Jew Street and the harbour,
+has retained a good deal of its ancient domestic architecture, but the
+churches have no features of any particular interest.
+
+The fishing village of Newlyn is a picturesque but ill-built group of
+old cottages, fish-cellars, bungalows, and artists' studios. As an art
+centre it has played, and is still playing, a very considerable part,
+while many of the native models of the place look out from gilded frames
+in half the picture galleries of Europe. It must unquestionably be the
+most painted spot in the British Isles, and it would be difficult to
+find a single nook or corner that has not been depicted on paper or
+canvas. One of the curious little streets bears the exotic name of "Rue
+des Beaux Arts", a reminder of the fact that it was in a dwelling of
+this street that Frank Bramley painted his dramatic picture "_A Hopeless
+Dawn_", now in the Tate Gallery. There is a considerable artists' colony
+still resident here, although a good many of those who first brought the
+place into fame have migrated to pastures new, and particularly to the
+neighbouring port of St. Ives. At the same time Newlyn is still, and
+always will be, a magic word in art circles, for here such painters as
+Stanhope Forbes, Frank Bramley, J. A. Gotch, Walter Langley, Sydney
+Grier, Chevalier Tayler, to mention but a few, introduced a new if
+somewhat exotic phase into the traditions of British art. Mr. A.
+Stanhope Forbes, A.R.A., writes: "I had come from France, where I had
+been studying, and wandering down into Cornwall, came one spring morning
+along that dusty road by which Newlyn is approached from Penzance.
+Little did I think that the cluster of grey-roofed houses which I saw
+before me against the hillside would be my home for so many years. What
+lodestone of artistic metal the place contains I know not, but its
+effects were strongly felt, in the studios of Paris and Antwerp
+particularly, by a number of young English painters studying there, who
+just about then, by some common impulse, seemed drawn towards this
+corner of their native land.... It was part of our creed to paint our
+pictures directly from nature, and not merely to rely upon sketches and
+studies which we could afterwards amplify in the comfort of a studio."
+
+The road from Penzance to Land's End being rather dull and devoid of
+interest, the best way to reach the outlying promontory is by one of the
+G.W.R. motors that make the regular journey. A stay of a short time is
+usually made at the Logan Rock, perched on the summit of a pile of
+crags. To reach it involves rather a breakneck scramble down and stiff
+climb up, and it is doubtful if the satisfaction of having done the feat
+is equal to the amount of fatigue involved. The stone rocks to a
+considerable degree, but less than it did before it was upset in 1824 by
+Lieutenant Goldsmith, who was commanded to replace it by the Admiralty.
+St. Buryan Church and Cross are both worth inspection. The former has a
+tower ninety feet in height, while the latter has been attributed to the
+Romano-British period. It is a plain little erection of stone standing
+on a base of five steps. On one side is carved in low relief a fully
+clothed figure of the Saviour with hands extended horizontally.
+
+The first aspect of Land's End, with its covering of turf, worn smooth
+by the feet of many trippers, is disappointing; and it is only when we
+begin to wander about the lesser used trackways that it is possible to
+realize that this is no ordinary promontory, but a lonely headland
+broken into a hundred beetling crags, with huge granite boulders piled
+one on another, forming a stalwart bulwark against the onrushing waves
+of the Atlantic. In the crevices of these miniature precipices purple
+heather and golden gorse have set them here and there, while the silver
+lichens have clothed the scarred surfaces of rock with a tender grace.
+The wind-swept downs that cap the lonely headland are also not without a
+certain beauty, from the very nature of the surrounding waste of wild
+grey sea.
+
+As we gaze over the waters from the top of this lonely rock, we think
+instinctively of the lost land of Lyonesse, that antiquaries and
+geologists tell us once stretched from our feet to the Scillies.
+
+[Illustration: ON THE LERRYN RIVER]
+
+That such a denudation actually occurred is of course within the bounds
+of geological possibility, if we take the precaution to date the
+incident far enough back, to remote and prehistoric days. There is
+little credence to be attached to the local traditions, which affirm
+that fishermen on a calm, clear day, have seen the ruins of house and
+castle, cottage and farm, covered with dulse instead of stonecrop; or
+the shattered spires of one or two of the reputed "hundred and twenty
+churches". If such a kingdom ever existed it was long before the
+mediæval era, and a spired church belongs to the Gothic period.
+
+Sir Richard Carew, the friend and contemporary of Raleigh and of
+Campden, assures us not only that proofs of the lost kingdom remained in
+his day, but that the fishermen's nets frequently brought up portions of
+"doors and windows" from the submerged houses.
+
+At the same time there is probably a certain rough truth in the old
+legends, the details having been added from time to time. As Mr. Arthur
+Salmon says: "When we speak of a lost Lyonesse we are not dealing with
+absurdities. We must only be careful to date it far enough backward, or
+rather to leave it without date. It is an alluring vision on which we
+can linger without the sense of being actually unhistoric."
+
+Certain is it that if we examine _The Life and Death of Prince Arthur_,
+the _History of Merlin_, or the _Mort d'Arthur_, we shall find
+"Cornewaile" and "The Lyonesse" spoken of with an airy indifference as
+to their geographical limits. Thus it may possibly be that, by the title
+of Lyonesse, Leonois, or any other of the various renderings of the
+name, it was intended to cover such portion of the west country as lay
+beyond that part of Devonshire, which, down to so late as the year 410
+of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, continued to be known as Cornwall.
+
+It is well worth while to stay the night at the little hostel near the
+Land's End for the purpose of viewing this westernmost piece of England
+under the magic spell of a stormy sunset or a misty dawn. The sun sinks
+beyond the vast expanse of open, wide, and illimitable sea, heaving with
+a deep and mysterious ground swell as the long waves roll shorewards.
+Between the great pinnacles of rock blue chasms yawn and pass away, and
+the bases of the nearer rocks are momentarily hidden by the foam of the
+surging waves.
+
+Far out, far beyond where the Longships lighthouse blinks its warning
+light over the waste of waters, a solitary ship goes down into the
+western horizon; and the golden clouds of summer follow her, one by one,
+into the bosom of the night.
+
+The holiday season, with its bands of health-seeking and somewhat noisy
+tourists, is not the best time of the year for a visit to Land's End. As
+a show place it has been compelled to provide certain conveniences for
+the traveller, and these jarring notes of modernity are rather
+aggressive. There is much to be said for Mr. W. H. Hudson's plea for a
+national fund that shall purchase the Land's End; but one fears much
+water will have flowed around the historic headland before a "Society
+for the Preservation of Noble Landscape" becomes an accomplished fact.
+
+About a mile from the cliffs stands the rocky little islet of Carn Brâs,
+whereon is situated the Longships lighthouse. Although such a short
+distance away this lighthouse, and that on the Wolf Rock seven miles
+off, are frequently cut off from all communication with the mainland by
+stress of weather. The submerged crags that fringe this portion of the
+coast are many, while the larger of those whose jagged points appear
+above the water, are the Armed Knight, the Irish Lady, and Enys Dodman,
+the last being pierced by a fine natural arch about forty feet in
+height. The Cornish name for the Armed Knight was "An Marogeth Arvowed",
+and it was also called Guela or Guelaz, the "rock easily seen".
+
+To enjoy fully these western cliffs, one should stay in the locality for
+some days; be on the spot at all hours, see the mists of morning and the
+mellow tints of evening when all is calm and peaceful. At such times
+those who love the sea breezes, and the hoary rocks bearded with moss
+and lichen; those who are fond of the legends and traditions of the
+past, will find much to interest them at the Land's End. It is a
+favourite spot with artists, many of whom come year after year to depict
+its frowning cliffs and heaving belt of sea, for, curiously enough, the
+grandest effects of the waves are frequently seen in calm weather, when
+the heavy ground swell causes the waves to break with great force on the
+rocks.
+
+In his criticism on Turner's picture of the Land's End, Ruskin wrote:
+
+
+     "At the Land's End there is to be seen the entire disorder of the
+     surges, when every one of them, divided and entangled among
+     promontories as it rolls, and beaten back post by post from walls
+     of rock on this side and that side, recoils like the defeated
+     division of a great army, throwing all behind it into disorder,
+     breaking up the succeeding waves into vertical ridges, which, in
+     their turn, yet more totally shattered upon the shore, retire in
+     more hopeless confusion, until the whole surface of the sea becomes
+     one dizzy whirl of rushing, writhing, tortured, undirected rage,
+     bounding and crashing, and coiling in an anarchy of enormous power,
+     subdivided into myriads of waves, of which every one is not, be it
+     remembered, a separate surge, but part and portion of a vast one,
+     actuated by eternal power, and giving in every direction the mighty
+     undulation of impetuous line, which glides over the rocks and
+     writhes in the wind, overwhelming the one and piercing the other
+     with the form, fury, and swiftness of lambent fire."
+
+
+[Illustration: PENZANCE FROM NEWLYN HARBOUR]
+
+
+
+
+LAND'S END TO NEWQUAY
+
+
+No visitor to Cornwall can fail to notice the remarkable number of
+wells, situated near stone circles, dolmens, cromlechs, or churches that
+have replaced them in more modern times, for well-worship was
+undoubtedly one of the most persistent of the pagan customs with which
+the early Christian missionaries had to deal. Sir Norman Lockyer
+writes:--"It seems to be accepted now that well-worship in Britain
+originated long before the Christian era; that it was not introduced by
+the Christian missionaries, but rather they found it in vogue on their
+arrival, and tolerated it at first and utilized it afterwards, as they
+did a great many other pagan customs."
+
+It is of course quite easy to understand how a once devout custom
+degenerated into mere superstition, how some wells came to be called
+"wishing wells", &c., in which the modern village maidens drop their
+pins, in much the same way as their pagan ancestors left offerings to
+invoke the aid of the tutelary saint.
+
+The superstitions attached to the wells of Cornwall are as strong
+to-day as ever they were in the past, and there seems little reason to
+doubt that the good condition of wells, cromlechs, and other antiquities
+in the county, is due to the widespread traditions that dreadful harm
+will befall those who disturb or mutilate any ancient remains.
+
+Sennen Cove lying immediately to the north of Land's End is a very
+charming little spot that shows signs of becoming a fashionable
+watering-place. The church, situated a mile inland, is dedicated to St.
+Senan or Senannus, one of those numerous Irish saints who showed such a
+predilection for the land of Cornwall. It is a low, weather-beaten
+structure with a good tower, and standing nearly 400 feet above the
+level of the sea, it forms a conspicuous land- and sea-mark. Within,
+there is a mutilated alabaster figure that is thought to have
+represented the Virgin and Child, and a small piece of mural painting.
+East of the church, a few yards from the roadside, and near the end of a
+small cottage, is the stone known as the Table Mên, a block of granite
+nearly eight feet in length, and three feet high. The word "main", or
+"mên", is the old Cornish for "stone". Here, according to tradition, a
+great battle took place between King Arthur and some Danish invaders,
+and the stone is also said to have been used as a royal dining table,
+when the number of kings who dined here is given by some old
+topographers as three, while others speak of seven. Hals gives their
+names as follows: "Ethelbert, fifth king of Kent; Cissa, second king of
+the South Saxons; Kingills, sixth king of the West Saxons; Sebert, third
+king of the East Saxons; Ethelfred, seventh king of the Northumbers;
+Penda, ninth king of the Mercians; and Sigebert, fifth king of the East
+Angles; who all flourished about the year 600". Merlin, the Wizard, who
+appears to have prophesied something about every nook in the kingdom,
+foretold that a yet larger number of kings will assemble around this
+rock for a similar purpose on the destruction of the world. A rock near
+Lanyon Cromlêh claims a similar honour, and the same story is attached
+to another at Bosavern in the parish of St. Just.
+
+Sennen Cove is situated on the curve of Whitesand Bay, which terminates
+to the northward in the fine bluff headland of Cape Cornwall. It was
+once a favourite spot for smugglers and wreckers, and here Athelstan,
+after his final defeat of the Cornish, started to conquer the Scilly
+Isles. Stephen landed here on his first arrival in England, as did
+Perkin Warbeck when he sought to seize the crown he claimed. King John
+is also said to have landed here on his return from Ireland. Cape
+Cornwall, a mile and a half from the village, is one of the most
+prominent headlands of the western coast, but being in the
+neighbourhood of the great mining district it is somewhat neglected by
+visitors, a remark that applies to the whole of this portion of the
+coast as far as St. Ives, the great exception being Gurnards' Head. The
+inland country is bleak and barren, with a number of mining shafts
+capping the hillocks, with the result that the uninviting hinterland has
+inspired few people with the desire to explore a really grand and rocky
+piece of coast.
+
+Nearly a mile south-west of Cape Cornwall are the Brisons, two fearful
+and dangerous rocks, rising about seventy feet above high-water mark.
+Brison is Cornish for prison, and tradition affirms that these rocks
+were once used as prisons.
+
+North of the cape is Kenidjack headland, Porthleden being the name of
+the cove that divides the promontories. Skirting the coast from
+Kenidjack many fine bits of rocky scenery are passed. Botallack Head,
+with its old engine houses perched on its rocky crags, has a singularly
+savage appearance. The mine is one of the oldest in Cornwall, and the
+ancient workings continued for a considerable distance under the bed of
+the sea. The Levant, another submarine mine to the north, has also
+considerable workings beneath the sea.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE HARBOUR, NEWLYN]
+
+The next point of interest is Pendeen, or Pendinas, the "castled
+headland", near to which is Pendeen House, now a farm, but once a
+seventeenth-century manor house, in which the celebrated Cornish
+historian and antiquary, Dr. William Borlase, was born in 1695. He
+corresponded with Pope to whom on one occasion he sent a Cornish
+diamond, which was thus acknowledged by the poet: "I have received your
+gift, and have so placed it in my grotto, that it will resemble the
+donor, in the shade, but shining". The famous cave called the Pendeen
+Vau, was discovered a few yards from his home. For his day he was quite
+an enlightened antiquary, and although modern research has shown his
+_Antiquities of Cornwall_ to be full of pitfalls for the unwary, it is a
+book that has formed the basis for many an interesting volume on the
+county. The church of Pendeen occupies as bleak a site as could anywhere
+be found in England. It was designed and built by Robert Aitken the
+famous Cornish missioner. It was fashioned on the plan of the ancient
+cathedral of Iona, and was built almost entirely by the people
+themselves.
+
+A little eastward of Pendeen is the church town of Morvah, "the place by
+the sea", which has traditions relating to mermaids. Northward is
+Porthmorna, or Porth Moina, the Monk's Port, formed on one side by the
+fine cliff of Bosigran, where the rocks of granite have a pale reddish
+tint; so that when lit up by the sun they have a very brilliant
+appearance. A few years ago the bleak hills and towering cliffs in this
+locality were a favourite haunt of the peregrine falcon, the cliff hawk,
+while the blue rock dove, and Baillon's crake have been found in the
+district. Bosigran lies just under Cairn Galva, whose boldly-formed
+outline is a conspicuous landmark. Just beyond Porthmeor is the
+Gurnard's Head, the finest and most romantic point on the north side of
+the Land's End, and one of the show places of the county. The ancient
+name for the headland was Treryn Dinas. Portions of a small chapel
+remain on the isthmus, and there was once a holy well close by.
+
+The village of Zennor, about a quarter of a mile distant, lies in a wild
+and stony district. Within the very interesting church are some quaint
+bench ends, one of which depicts a mermaid, complete with comb, mirror,
+and fishy tail, but the carving is of a very primitive order. On Zennor
+Beacon is the famous Zennor Quoit or Cromlech, the largest in Cornwall,
+and one of the finest in the country. Between Zennor and St. Ives a wild
+tract of country forms the parish of Towednack with an ancient church
+within which is a true chancel arch, a constructional feature that is of
+rare occurrence in Cornish churches.
+
+The irregularly built little town of St. Ives, which has not inaptly
+been called the "Art Centre of England", is made up of two distinct
+parts. The older portion, which consists of oldfashioned houses, and
+narrow tortuous streets, is situated on a low spit of land called the
+"island", while "up-along" on the higher ground above the station, is
+the favourite and fashionable holiday resort. The ancient name of the
+place, Porth Ia, perpetuates the memory of another Irish saint, Ia, who
+is claimed as a convert of St. Patrick, and who is said to have floated
+from the shores of the Emerald Isle to those of Cornwall on a miraculous
+leaf, "by which", Mr. Arthur Salmon tells us, "is clearly meant a
+coracle of the kind still to be seen in parts of Wales". The cell of St.
+Ia stood on the site of the present parish church, which is said to
+contain her bones, and this saint is not to be confounded with those of
+St. Ive, near Liskeard, or St. Ives in Huntingdonshire. The position of
+St. Ives, on the western slope of an extensive bay, and with two
+remarkably fine sandy beaches, is one of uncommon beauty. The finest
+views of the town and the neighbourhood are those obtained from the
+grounds of the Tregenna Castle Hotel, and from the Battery Rocks.
+
+A lofty hill to the south of the town, has a pyramidical erection of
+granite in memory of John Knill, born in 1733. The obelisk bears three
+inscriptions: "Johannes Knill, 1782"; "I know that my Redeemer liveth";
+and "Resurgam". After serving his apprenticeship to a solicitor, Knill
+became Collector of Customs, and afterwards Mayor of St. Ives. Long
+before his death, which took place in 1811, he erected this mausoleum on
+Worvas Hill, but it was never applied to its purpose, as he was buried
+in London. Among the provisions of a curious will he ordained that
+"certain ceremonies should be observed once every five years, on the
+festival of St. James the Apostle; ten pounds to be spent in a dinner
+for the mayor, collector of Customs, and clergyman, and two friends to
+be invited by each of them, making a party of nine persons, to dine at
+some tavern in the borough; five pounds to be equally divided amongst
+ten girls, natives of the borough and daughters of seamen, fishermen, or
+tinners, each of them not exceeding ten years of age, who shall, between
+ten and twelve o'clock of the forenoon of that day, dance for a quarter
+of an hour at least, on the ground adjoining the mausoleum, and after
+the dance sing the 100th Psalm of the old version, to the fine old tune
+to which the same was then sung in St. Ives Church; one pound to a
+fiddler who shall play to the girls while dancing and singing at the
+mausoleum, and also before them on their return home therefrom; two
+pounds to two widows of seamen, fishers, or tinners of the borough,
+being sixty-four years old or upwards, who shall attend the dancing and
+singing of the girls, and walk before them immediately after the
+fiddler, and certify to the mayor, collector of Customs, and clergyman,
+that the ceremonies have been duly performed; one pound to be laid out
+in white ribbons for breast-knots for the girls and widows, and a
+cockade for the fiddler, to be worn by them respectively on that day and
+on the Sunday following". The observances have been duly carried out
+since the death of John Knill. The next observance will be in 1911, and
+when once at St. Ives the present writer was fortunate enough to witness
+the quaint ceremonies that are enacted every five years around the
+mausoleum of John Knill, who has succeeded in making a posthumous name
+for himself at a very trifling cost.
+
+[Illustration: LAND'S END]
+
+It was at St. Ives that Anders Zorn, the celebrated Swedish artist,
+painted his first picture with oils, a fine work that now hangs on the
+walls of the Luxembourg. The sketcher from nature who clambers along
+this rocky coast in search of colour notes or impressions, will
+perpetually experience the difficulty of not knowing where to halt,
+always a difficult problem for a painter in a new territory. Many are
+they who have seen the day draw to a close with nothing accomplished.
+This is not the result of idleness, but on account of the feeling of
+expectancy, the ever-alluring idea, that by going a little farther
+something really uncommon will be found. Points of interest innumerable
+will be passed in the pursuit of this beautiful will-o'-the-wisp, this
+perfect composition which never can, and never will, materialize on
+paper or on canvas.
+
+Hayle and Lelant are both worth visiting. The former has a fine beach
+for bathing, and the latter is renowned for its golf course. Lelant is a
+very ancient town whose fine old church is the mother church of both
+Towednack and St. Ives.
+
+Redruth and Camborne are important mining towns to which no one would go
+in search of the picturesque, and the bleak and barren surroundings may
+not inaptly be called the "Black Country" of Cornwall. Gwennap Pit, near
+Redruth, was the natural amphitheatre where John Wesley preached with
+marked success to thousands of Cornish miners. For the antiquary there
+are many interesting remains at Carn Brea, a rocky eminence overlooking
+the town, and capped with a monument, erected in 1836, to Francis, Baron
+de Dunstanville and Basset, of Tehidy.
+
+The best mine to explore, should one's tastes run in that direction, is
+the Dolcoath Mine, near Camborne station. The mine yields both copper
+and tin, and has reached the depth of 2250 feet. Portreath is to a
+certain extent the port of Redruth. The cliffs are rather fine and the
+seas exceptionally so in rough weather, but as a good deal of refuse
+water from the mines is discharged here the result is that the sea for
+a considerable distance is frequently tinged with a thick reddish
+colour.
+
+Between Portreath and St. Agnes the coast scenery is rendered very
+attractive by reason of the number of coves into which it is broken,
+such as Porth Towan, a very favourite spot with visitors.
+
+The little town of St. Agnes is steadily growing in popularity, while
+St. Agnes Beacon is of great geological interest, and from the summit a
+fine view is obtained of the Cornish coast from Trevose Head to St.
+Ives.
+
+Opie, the painter, was a native of St. Agnes, where he was born in 1761.
+The house is passed on the way to Perranporth, and is known as "Harmony
+Cottage". Opie's artistic talent is said to have been first recognized
+by "Peter Pindar", when that worthy resided at Truro. A large number of
+his early paintings may still be seen in many of the houses in the
+vicinity of his birthplace, although a considerable number have been
+carried off by discerning collectors.
+
+A few years ago Perranporth was nothing but a small cluster of
+fishermen's cottages, but the fine stretches of golden sand and some
+imposing masses of arched rocks have brought many visitors, for whom
+increased accommodation has had to be found. One and a half miles from
+Perran Round, an ancient amphitheatre, are portions of an old church,
+long hidden in the sand, over which St. Piran, or St. Piranus officiated
+in the sixth century. The church of Perranporth is a chapel of ease to
+Perranzabuloe, i.e., _Piran-in-sabulo_.
+
+Although Max Müller satisfied himself that St. Piran was a purely
+mythical figure, and that the word "Piran" meant merely a "digger",
+others assure us that there is enough evidence to satisfy a court of law
+that Piran was connected with the school founded by Patrick, and that in
+the fifth century he was a missionary in Cornwall. Excavations are being
+made constantly around this little church half-buried in the fine sand,
+and many important discoveries have resulted. There appears to be little
+doubt that the church shares with Gwithian oratory the distinction of
+being the earliest Christian edifice of which any considerable portions
+remain in England. At the same time it is as well to bear in mind that
+the part of the material structure revealed by the spade is some two
+centuries later in date than St. Piran, the patron saint of the Tinners.
+
+[Illustration: IN ST. IVES HARBOUR]
+
+"There is a charm in the Cornish coast which belongs to no other coast
+in the world." So wrote Dean Alford many years ago, and no portion of
+Cornwall possesses greater charm than the section as seen from Newquay
+Beacon. Like so many of its neighbouring holiday resorts, Newquay was a
+very small and not very well known little place until the Great Western
+Railway gave it four trains a day from London, advertised its charms in
+the press, and depicted them in glowing colours on innumerable posters.
+The result is that Newquay has boomed to such an extent that it is now
+the great centre of attraction on the north coast. Twenty years ago
+Newquay was little more than a cluster of cottages, but so rapid has
+been its development that we seem to be centuries away from the days
+when there was no fashionable hotel on the Headland, and when the place
+was reached along a jolting little mineral line from Par Junction.
+
+The town itself is not old enough to be interesting, and as it possesses
+no "front" but few of its streets command a view of the bold
+promontories, fine beaches, tidal inlets, and the singularly blue sea,
+that make it such an attractive place for a holiday.
+
+As Mr. J. Henwood Thomas says: "One of the chief glories of Newquay is
+its grand headland. Running right out into the Atlantic it forms a bold,
+natural pier, in comparison with which the costly artificial piers which
+are to be found at most watering-places of repute are mere toys. Nothing
+can be more exhilarating than a walk to the extreme end of this jagged
+promontory. It is like breathing a vitalizing essence."
+
+Here, on the beaches of Newquay and Fistral Bay, one may go to the
+verge of the waves, and breathe the ozone that rises from the line of
+breakers, without the necessity of making detours to avoid fruit-stalls
+and bathing-saloons. Fortunately the fine sands around Newquay have not
+yet become a mart for sweetmeats and cocoanuts, nor are they the happy
+hunting ground of the negro minstrel and other troupes of fantastic
+entertainers.
+
+The chief, and one might say the only glory of North Cornwall, is the
+magnificent line of coast, particularly that portion of it bounded by
+Bedruthan Steps on the one hand, and Watergate Bay on the other, with
+Mawgan Porth and Beacon Cove lying between.
+
+At low tides Watergate Bay has a splendid stretch of sands, more than
+two miles in length, and along the cliffs here sea-pinks, sea-lavender,
+and golden samphire may be found, although the last named is becoming
+extremely rare. The cliffs along this portion of the coast are pierced
+by numerous shady caves and caverns, some of which, like the Cathedral
+Cavern and the one known as the Banqueting Hall, are of vast extent, and
+are not infrequently used for concerts and other entertainments held in
+aid of local charities.
+
+In spite of the necessary changes and improvements due to the ever
+increasing number of visitors, there is still much that is primitive to
+be seen around Newquay. Almost every ruin, rock, and church has its
+legend, more or less ancient and authentic, and once off the beaten
+track there is much that will interest the lovers of saint and folklore,
+as well as the admirers of coast scenery of a bold and broken kind.
+
+All visitors to Newquay make their way to Crantock "churchtown",
+situated on the western side of the Gannel, a small tidal stream which
+is crossed by means of a plank bridge. The village of Crantock is
+ancient and interesting, but the great attraction of the place is the
+church. Less than a dozen years ago the fabric was in a ruinous
+condition until the vicar succeeded in raising sufficient funds with
+which to preserve the building. In his appeal for help, an appeal that
+was well responded to by the visitors to Newquay, the vicar explained
+that "the foundation dates from the sixth century, when the Celtic
+Bishop, Carantoc--or Cairnech--whose name the church bears and who was a
+companion of St. Patrick, first founded a religious cell here. The
+church became collegiate before the time of King Edward the Confessor,
+and continued so, with large endowment, until it was utterly despoiled,
+and its community scattered by King Henry VIII."
+
+The circular font bears the date 1473, and many portions of early work,
+including the twelfth century walls and arches, are likewise to be seen
+within the building. The font, which is thought to be late Norman, bears
+a date cut in bold relief on the side:--
+
+
+     "ANNO DOMINI MILLESIMO CCCC^o Lxxiij (1473)."
+
+
+There were once small columns supporting the heads still to be seen at
+each angle, but these have disappeared.
+
+Mr. Arthur Salmon tells us that tradition speaks of Crantock as having
+been once part of a large town or district named Langarrow, or sometimes
+Languna, most of which now lies beneath the sand-towans. "This town is
+said to have had many fine churches and buildings, vying with the best
+cities in the Britain of that day, which seems to have been the tenth
+century."
+
+[Illustration: THE CLIFFS, NEWQUAY]
+
+Be this as it may, and there is no doubt a good deal of truth in the
+tradition, we do know that until comparatively recent years the now
+sand-choked estuary of the Gannel had a sufficient depth of water for
+fishing craft and coasting schooners; while old historians assure us
+that the channel could at one time be navigated by ships of large
+tonnage. It is quite possible that the "new quay" of the now fashionable
+watering-place owes its existence to the silting-up of the estuary that
+gave access to the old quay at Crantock. In Carew's _Survey of Cornwall_
+reference is made to "newe Kaye, a place in the north coast of this
+Hundred (Pider), so called, because in former times, the neighbours
+attempted, to supplie the defect of nature, by art, in making there a
+Kay, for the Rode of shipping".
+
+An old well in the centre of the village is said to be a "holy" one, but
+this has been disputed by antiquaries.
+
+The weird and uncanny cry of the "Gannel Crake" is heard by everyone who
+woos the charms of a romantic coast after the sun has set beyond the
+western sea. It is said to be the cry of some species of night gull, but
+is traditionally referred to by the superstitious natives as the cry of
+a troubled spirit that ever haunts the scene.
+
+A short distance inland from the porth is St. Columb Minor, the church
+of which, together with that of St. Columb Major some six miles farther
+inland is said to be dedicated to Columba, a maiden saint who is not to
+be confounded with the great Irish saint of the same name. St. Columb
+Minor is the mother parish of Newquay and possesses a fine late
+Decorated church with a remarkably good western tower, said to be the
+second highest tower in the county. The village is quite a large one
+from which some fine views of the coast may be obtained. Close at hand
+is Rialton, from which the statesman Sidney Godolphin took his title,
+and where, in the surrounding park and dells, many sketches were made by
+Stansfield, when he visited the district with his friend Charles
+Dickens.
+
+Rialton Priory is a much desecrated building that once belonged to the
+priory of Bodmin, it having been erected towards the end of the
+fifteenth century by Thomas Vivian, prior of Bodmin. In 1840 someone
+carried off a large amount of the priory's ancient stonework to
+Somerset, where it was placed in private grounds, but the Crown made an
+order for it to be returned and re-erected at Rialton.
+
+St. Columb Major occupies the crown of an eminence, the conjectured site
+of a Danish fortress. The church is large, mainly early Decorated, and
+of much beauty. In the chancel is the pre-Reformation stone altar,
+marked with the five crosses, and supported on slabs of granite. This
+had been buried beneath the floor and was discovered during some
+restorations in 1846. Other noteworthy features are the window of the
+south transept and the grotesque carvings that adorn the font. There are
+also three good brasses commemorating members of the Arundell family.
+
+The whole of this neighbourhood is famous for its "hurlers" and
+"wrestlers", a memento of which could be seen at the Red Lion a few
+years ago, for here the landlord used to exhibit with pride the silver
+punchbowl given to his grandfather (Polkinhorne) when that worthy
+escaped defeat in a wrestling bout with Cann, the champion of the
+adjoining county of Devon.
+
+The art of wrestling appears to have died out, but the once popular game
+of hurling is revived once a year, either in the village itself or along
+the sands towards Newquay. The ball used is about the size of a cricket
+ball, and after being coated with silver is inscribed:--
+
+
+     "St. Columb Major and Minor,
+       Do your best;
+     In one of your parishes
+       I must rest."
+
+
+At one time the game was very common throughout Cornwall, and many
+interesting records relating to it are in existence; but at the present
+day only the two parishes of St. Columb keep up a survival of this
+ancient game.
+
+The whole of the St. Columb district is rich in large tracts of wild and
+picturesque country, which include such heights as Denzell Downs, St.
+Issey Beacon, and St. Breock Downs, near which last stand the "Naw
+Mean", or, in modern English, the Nine Maidens. At the present time
+there are but eight of these upright stones, which tradition asserts
+were originally maidens who were turned into stone for dancing on Sunday
+to the strains of a fiddler, who shared the same fate, as witness a tall
+pillar of rock near by called the "Fiddler".
+
+On the drive from Newquay to Bedruthan Steps no one should fail to make
+a halt at Mawgan, or, to be strictly accurate, St. Mawgan in Pydar,
+either on the outward or the return journey. The village is a pretty one
+that lies in the centre of the beautiful Vale of Mawgan, or Lanherne,
+which stretches from St. Columb to the porth, or cove on the coast.
+Mawgan possesses an ancient parish church and a Roman Catholic convent
+and chapel. The church is a very fine Perpendicular building with a
+tower 70 feet in height. The building was restored by Butterfield, but
+contains some interesting old screenwork and a number of well-carved
+bench ends. The brasses include that of a priest, _circa_ 1420; Cecily
+Arundell, 1578; a civilian, _circa_ 1580; and Jane, daughter of Sir John
+Arundell, _circa_ 1580. This last is a palimpsest, made up of portions
+of two Flemish brasses, _circa_ 1375. The churchyard contains a
+beautifully sculptured fourteenth-century lantern cross, of mediæval
+date, in the form of an octagonal shaft. Under four niches at the summit
+are sculptured representations of: God the Father with the Dove bearing
+a crucifix; an Abbot; an Abbess; and a King and Queen. The height of
+the cross is 5 feet 2 inches, the breadth of the head being 1 foot 1
+inch.
+
+The convent, the "lone manse" of Lanherne, was originally the manor
+house of the Arundells, which was, in the last years of the eighteenth
+century, presented by a Lord Arundell of Wardour to a sisterhood of
+Carmelite nuns who had fled from Antwerp in 1794. One or two of the
+pictures in the convent chapel are attributed to Rubens. Strangers may
+attend service in the chapel, but the nuns, like those of the order of
+St. Bridget at Syon Abbey, Chudleigh, are recluses of the strictest
+kind.
+
+While at Mawgan a stroll should be taken through the groves of
+Carnanton, the old-time abode of William Noye, the "crabbed"
+Attorney-General to Charles I, whose heart, we are told by his
+biographers, was found at his death to have become shrivelled up into
+the form of a leather purse.
+
+A mile beyond Mawgan Porth are the far-famed Bedruthan Steps seven miles
+from Newquay. Here the visitor will find a fine stretch of cliff
+scenery, with a succession of sandy beaches strewn with confused and
+broken masses of rock, and some large caverns that are well worth
+exploring should the state of the tide permit. The largest of these
+caverns is of vast extent and is said to be unrivalled in this respect
+along the whole of the Cornish seaboard. At low tide the great spurs of
+rock embedded in the sand have a fantastic beauty, while one of the
+largest of them bears a more than fancied resemblance to Queen
+Elizabeth, and is named after her. Another is known as the Good
+Samaritan, as against these jagged points an East Indiaman of this name
+once came to grief, when the local women folk are said to have
+replenished their wardrobes with a quantity of fine silks and satins.
+
+The coast beyond Bedruthan, by Trevose and Pentire Heads, Padstow,
+Tintagel, Boscastle, Bude, and Morwenstowe, although abounding in wild
+and rugged scenery, and full of romantic and literary associations, is
+beyond our present limits. This being so we may conclude with the words
+of J. D. Blight, one of the most learned of the older school of Cornish
+antiquaries:
+
+
+     "Those who wish to behold nature in her grandest aspect, those who
+     love the sea breezes, and the flowers which grow by the cliffs, the
+     cairns and monumental rocks, all hoary and bearded with moss, those
+     who are fond of the legends and traditions of old, and desire to
+     tread on ground sacred to the peculiar rites and warlike deeds of
+     remote ages, should visit the land of Old Cornwall."
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cornish Riviera, by Sidney Heath
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+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+    "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+  <head>
+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+    <title>
+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of /*, by AUTHOR.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css">
+
+    p {  margin-top: .75em;
+         text-align: justify;
+         margin-bottom: .75em;
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+    .poem             {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;}
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+    .poem .stanza     {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;}
+    .poem div        {display: block; margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;}
+    .poem div.i1     {display: block; margin-left: 1em;}
+
+    /* index */
+
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+
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+  </head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cornish Riviera, by Sidney Heath
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Cornish Riviera
+
+Author: Sidney Heath
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2009 [EBook #28609]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CORNISH RIVIERA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<h1>THE CORNISH<br />RIVIERA</h1>
+
+<h2>Described by SIDNEY HEATH</h2>
+
+<h2>Pictured by E. W. HASLEHUST</h2>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><img src="images/i003.jpg" width='200' height='300' alt="Decoration" /></div>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h4>BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED<br />LONDON &nbsp;GLASGOW &nbsp;AND &nbsp;BOMBAY<br />1915</h4>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i002.jpg" id="i002.jpg"></a><img src="images/i002.jpg" width='472' height='700' alt="ENTRANCE TO FOWEY HARBOUR" /></div>
+
+<h4>ENTRANCE TO FOWEY HARBOUR</h4>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="center"><img src="images/ilist.jpg" width='551' height='700' alt="BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND VOLUMES READY" /></div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+<hr class="smler" />
+
+<div class="index">
+<ul>
+<li><a href="#i002.jpg">Entrance to Fowey Harbour</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<i>Frontispiece</i></li>
+<li><a href="#i011.jpg">Truro Cathedral from the River</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i019.jpg">Polruan</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i027.jpg">The Harbour, Fowey</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i035.jpg">View of Falmouth Harbour</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i043.jpg">St. Michael's Mount</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i051.jpg">On the Lerryn River</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i057.jpg">Penzance from Newlyn Harbour</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i063.jpg">In the Harbour, Newlyn</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i069.jpg">Land's End</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i075.jpg">In St. Ives Harbour</a></li>
+<li><a href="#i081.jpg">The Cliffs, Newquay</a></li>
+</ul>
+</div>
+
+<hr />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="center"><img src="images/i007.jpg" width='600' height='314' alt="THE CORNISH RIVIERA" /></div>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h2>PLYMOUTH TO LAND'S END</h2>
+
+<div class="block">
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"By Tre, Pol, and Pen,</div>
+<div>You may know the Cornishmen."</div>
+</div></div></div>
+
+<p>The majority of our English counties possess some special feature, some
+particular attraction which acts as a lodestone for tourists, in the
+form of a stately cathedral, striking physical beauty, or a wealth of
+historical or literary associations. There are large districts of rural
+England that would have remained practically unknown to the multitude
+had it not been for their possession of some superb architectural
+creation, or for the fame bestowed upon the district by the makers of
+literature and art. The Bard of Avon was perhaps the unconscious pioneer
+in the way of providing his native town and county with a valuable asset
+of this kind. The novels of Scott drew thousands of his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> readers to the
+North Country, and those of R. D. Blackmore did the same for the scenes
+so graphically depicted in <i>Lorna Doone</i>; while Thomas Hardy is probably
+responsible for half the number of tourists who visit Dorset.</p>
+
+<p>Cornwall, on the contrary, is unique, in that, despite its wealth of
+Celtic saints, crosses, and holy wells, it does not possess any
+overwhelming attractions in the way of physical beauty (the coast line
+excepted), literary associations, beautiful and fashionable spas, or medi&aelig;val cathedrals.</p>
+
+<p>History, legends, folklore, and traditions it has in abundance, while
+probably no portion of south-west England is so rich in memorials of the
+Celtic era. At the same time one can quite understand how it was that,
+until comparatively recent years, the Duchy land was visited by few
+tourists, as we count them to-day; and why the natives should think and
+speak of England as a distant, and indeed a foreign, country. Certain is
+it that less than a quarter of a century ago those who crossed the Tamar
+and journeyed westward into the sparsely populated Cornish towns and
+villages, were hailed as "visitors from England".</p>
+
+<p>Bounded on the north and south by the sea, cut off on the east by the
+Tamar, the delectable Duchy was a singularly isolated strip of land
+until the magic connecting link was forged by Brunel. Indeed it is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> not
+too much to say that Cornwall owes its present favourable position as a
+health resort almost entirely to the genius of Brunel and the enterprise
+of the Great Western Railway.</p>
+
+<p>The lateness of the railway development of Cornwall is somewhat
+remarkable when we remember that the county contained, in the
+picturesque Bodmin and Wadebridge Railway, the third line opened for
+passenger traffic in the kingdom. A quarter of a century later Plymouth
+was connected with the outer world, but for long after the historic
+ports and towns of the southern seaboard had been gradually linked up,
+the splendid isolation of the northern coast remained until
+comparatively recent years. It is but a short time ago that the only way
+of reaching Newquay was by means of a single mineral line that ran from
+Par Junction. Contrast this with the present day, when there is a choice
+of no less than five trains by which passengers can travel from
+Paddington to Newquay, to say nothing of the morning coach which meets
+the South Western train from Waterloo at Wadebridge. The famous Cornish
+Riviera expresses, that do the journey from Paddington to Penzance in a
+few hours, have become a familiar feature to those who live in the
+western counties, and few seaside resorts, situated three hundred miles
+from London, are so favoured by railway enterprise as the beauty spots of Cornwall.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p><p>This is essentially a county that is best toured by railway. The places
+and towns most worth visiting lie far apart, and are divided by a good
+deal of pleasant but not very interesting country, and one can obtain a
+more than sufficient amount of walking along the vast stretch of seaboard.</p>
+
+<p>The line from Plymouth to Truro crosses the fine estuary of the Tamar
+upon the Albert Bridge, one of Brunel's triumphs, and runs along the
+northern bank of the river Lynher. Almost at the head of the river is
+St. Germans, where, for those who can spare the time, a stay of a few
+hours may be profitably made. According to tradition it derives its name
+from St. Germanus, Bishop of Auxerre, who visited Britain in 429, and
+again in 447. From 850 to 1049 the town was the seat of the bishopric of
+Cornwall, which was afterwards incorporated in the see of Devon. The
+church is a good one with an ancient porch highly enriched with carvings
+and traceries. The greater part of the present building dates from 1261,
+and it occupies the site of the ancient Cornish cathedral.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i011.jpg" id="i011.jpg"></a><img src="images/i011.jpg" width='465' height='700' alt="TRURO CATHEDRAL FROM THE RIVER" /></div>
+
+<h4>TRURO CATHEDRAL FROM THE RIVER</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The fine ancestral home of Port Eliot, the residence of Lord St.
+Germans, was formerly called Porth Prior, from an Anglo-Saxon religious
+house granted to Richard Eliot in 1565, but of this original building no
+trace whatever remains above the ground. Within<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> the house are some good
+portraits of the Eliots, including a large number by Sir Joshua Reynolds.</p>
+
+<p>From St. Germans our journey lies through pleasant vales and wooded
+hills to Liskeard, a quiet little market town situated partly on the
+slope of a steep hill, and partly in a valley traversed by the Looe and
+Liskeard Canal. The district abounds in mysterious piles of rock such as
+the Trethevy Stone, and the Hurlers; while the student of folklore will
+not fail to be attracted by the sacred wells of St. Keyne and St. Cleer.
+The latter was used formerly as a Bowssening Pool, and held in great
+repute for its efficacy in restoring the insane to "mens sana in corpore
+sano". Not far away is the interesting church of St. Neots', with a
+quantity of very fine medi&aelig;val glass.</p>
+
+<p>The site of the old castle of Liskeard is preserved to some extent in a
+tree-planted public walk, while in the ancient Grammar School, "Peter
+Pindar" (Dr. Wolcot) and the learned Dean Prideaux received their
+education. St. Martin's Church has a set of curious gargoyles, while
+portions of a nunnery, dedicated to St. Clare, are said to have been
+built into the walls of one of the houses. In 1644, during the Civil
+War, Charles I was here, and again in the following year.</p>
+
+<p>From Liskeard, Looe may be reached either by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> rail, road, or canal. The
+road passes St. Keyne, where the waters of the well are said to possess
+a remarkable property, according to Thomas Fuller, who says, "whether
+husband or wife came first to drink thereof, they get the mastery
+thereby". The well has been immortalized in Southey's well-known ballad,
+<i>The Well of St. Keyne</i>.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"A well there is in the west countrie,</div>
+<div class="i1">And a clearer one never was seen,</div>
+<div>There is not a wife in the west countrie</div>
+<div class="i1">But has heard of the well of St. Keyne."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The ballad goes on to relate that a traveller, sitting beside the well,
+met a countryman, with whom he had a long chat about its tradition:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"'You drank of the water, I warrant, betimes,'</div>
+<div class="i1">He to the countryman said;</div>
+<div>But the countryman smiled as the stranger spoke,</div>
+<div class="i1">And sheepishly shook his head.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div>"'I hastened as soon as the wedding was o'er,</div>
+<div class="i1">And left my good wife in the porch;</div>
+<div>But faith! she had been quicker than I,</div>
+<div class="i1">For she took a bottle to church!'"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>St. Keyne or St. Keyna, the tutelary saint of this well, is said to have
+been a pious virgin, the daughter of Braganus, Prince of Brecknockshire,
+who lived about the year 490. She is also said to have made a pilgrimage
+to St. Michael's Mount, and to have founded a religious establishment there.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p><p>Two miles in a southerly direction is Duloe, where some upright stones
+have been conjectured to be portions of a druidical circle some
+twenty-eight feet in diameter. A little to the west of the twin villages
+of East and West Looe is Trelawne, an ancient seat of the Trelawny
+family; but the house is not shown to visitors, although a request to
+view the fine collection of pictures, which includes a portrait by
+Kneller, is generally granted. Kneller's portrait is of the famous
+bishop, Sir Jonathan Trelawny, whose counterfeit presentment recalls the
+stirring times when every Cornish village echoed with the defiant strain:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"And shall Trelawny die? and shall Trelawny die?</div>
+<div>There's thirty thousand underground shall know the reason why.</div>
+<div>And shall they scorn Tre, Pol, and Pen? and shall Trelawny die?</div>
+<div>There's thirty thousand Cornish boys will know the reason why.</div>
+<div>Trelawny he's in keep, and hold; Trelawny he may die,</div>
+<div>But thirty thousand Cornish men will know the reason why?"</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>The villages of East and West Looe are among the most picturesque on the
+southern seaboard. The estuary on the sides of which they are situated,
+is confined between lofty hills whose slopes are covered with allotment
+gardens and orchards. The bridge that crosses the creek a quarter of a
+mile from the haven mouth, was erected in 1855, when it displaced a
+remarkable old bridge of fifteen arches. In the days of the third Edward
+the combined Looes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> furnished twenty ships and a contingent of 315 men
+for the siege of Calais.</p>
+
+<p>Some delightful boating excursions may be made from Looe, the one most
+in favour being that to Watergate up the West Looe river, which unites
+with the main stream half a mile above the town. The stream winds among
+lofty hills, covered with rich and abundant verdure.</p>
+
+<p>The ancient Guildhall of West Looe, said to have been built originally
+as a monastic chapel, is a picturesque old building, the framework of
+which is composed of ships' beams. The cage for scolds has disappeared,
+but the stocks, of a very barbarous kind, have been placed across an
+open gable. The building was re-consecrated in 1852, since when services
+have been regularly held within it.</p>
+
+<p>The eleven miles that separate Fowey from Looe should be traversed on
+foot by way of Talland, Polperro, and Polruan. Talland Church is
+delightfully placed, while its tower is connected with the main building
+by means of a porch. The bench ends within are very interesting,
+particularly a set with finials in the form of winged figures
+administering the Eucharist. These pew ends are quite unlike any others
+in the country, and they are somewhat of an ecclesiastical puzzle. From
+Talland a rocky coast walk of less than two miles leads to Polperro,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>
+with the narrowest of all the narrow little ravines that offer shelter
+to the mariner on this exposed portion of the coast. The antiquary
+Leland describes it as "a little fischar towne with a peere". It is an
+extraordinary jumble of habitations which press upon each other so
+closely that it is only by wriggling through the narrow streets and
+turnings that one can make any progress at all.</p>
+
+<p>There is no coast track west of Polperro and both the roads to Fowey are
+very hilly. The pedestrian should proceed by way of Lansallos, where the
+church in the Perpendicular style forms a conspicuous sea-mark. From
+Polruan the descent to Fowey is very steep, but the view of the harbour
+from the high land is one of great charm.</p>
+
+<p>As we look at the little stranded and sunlit port to-day, it is
+difficult to realize that Fowey once shared with Plymouth and Dartmouth
+the maritime honours of the south-west coast. In those days Looe,
+Penryn, and Truro were regarded as creeks under Fowey. The harbour,
+which is navigable as far as Lostwithiel, a distance of eight miles, is
+formed mainly by the estuary of the river Fowey, the town stretching
+along the western bank of the harbour for a mile.</p>
+
+<p>Seen for the first time Fowey is a revelation. Much known and rather too
+much visited, it is yet one of Cornwall's most picturesque and
+interesting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> towns. Nature and art have combined to make it so; the art
+of the old village builder, not the so-called art of to-day. A modern
+element exists, but it is of small proportions. May it always remain so.</p>
+
+<p>Standing on the heights one looks down upon the river below. On either
+side is a jumble of ancient houses with leaning and weather-stained
+walls. It is doubtful if we ought to admire such ill-ventilated and
+out-of-date dwelling houses, in this essentially scientific age. But the
+general effect of line, of light and shade produced by a mass of broken
+and highly unconventional contours&mdash;gables where there should be
+chimneys, and chimneys where one is accustomed to look for doorposts&mdash;is
+highly satisfactory and pleasing from the artist's point of view.</p>
+
+<p>Steep hills and zigzag roads, at every alarming angle of declivity,
+intercept the labyrinth of houses, which stand on each other's heads, or
+peep over each other's shoulders, and settle down on the ledges of the river bank.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i019.jpg" id="i019.jpg"></a><img src="images/i019.jpg" width='700' height='468' alt="POLRUAN" /></div>
+
+<h4>POLRUAN</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>As the principal Cornish seaport, the town sent Edward III no less than
+forty-seven ships and 770 mariners for the Calais expedition&mdash;a quota
+exceeded only by the eastern port of Yarmouth. Leland tells us that the
+place rose rapidly into importance "partely by feates of warre, partely
+by pyracie; and so waxing riche felle all to marchaundize, so that the
+towne<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> was hauntid with shippes of diverse nations, and their shippes
+went to all nations". When the Cinque Ports of Rye and Winchelsea
+threatened to oust Fowey from its position as the premier Channel port,
+the Cornishmen defeated the mariners of Kent in a desperate sea fight,
+when they quartered the arms of the Cinque Ports on their own scutcheon,
+and assumed the title of "Fowey Gallaunts". They then made war on their
+own account against the French, and became little better than pirates
+ready to attack the ships of their own and every country, in port or on
+the high seas. They became such a thorn in the side of the king, Edward
+IV, by reason of their continuing to capture French ships after peace
+had been concluded, that the angry monarch caused them to be enticed to
+Lostwithiel, where their ringleaders were taken and hanged. From this
+period Fowey's maritime position began to decline. The inhabitants were
+compelled to pay a heavy fine, and the whole of their shipping was
+handed over to the port of Dartmouth.</p>
+
+<p>Carew tells us that sixty ships belonged to Fowey at that period. The
+twin forts of Fowey were erected in the reign of Edward IV to protect
+the roadstead from the ravages of the French. Standing something like
+those below Dartmouth, on each side of the water, a thick boom or chain
+stretched across the mouth of the river would be sufficient protection
+against vessels<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> propelled by sails. The last gallant action performed
+by these forts was in 1666, when they were assisted by the then almost
+new fort of St. Catherine. A Dutch fleet of eighty sail of the line was
+off the town in the hope of capturing an English fleet bound for
+Virginia, which had put into Fowey for shelter. A Dutch frigate of 74
+guns attempted to force the entrance, but after being under the
+crossfire of the forts for two hours, was forced to tack about and
+regain the open sea.</p>
+
+<p>Sir A. T. Quiller-Couch writes thus of Fowey in <i>Troy Town</i>. "The
+visitor," says he, "if he be of my mind, will find a charm in Fowey over
+and above its natural beauty, and what I may call its holiday
+conveniences, for the yachtsman, for the sea-fisherman, or for one
+content to idle in peaceful waters. It has a history, and carries the
+marks of it. It has also a flourishing trade and a life of its own."</p>
+
+<p>The church of St. Fimbarrus, almost hidden from view except from the
+harbour side, is mainly of fifteenth-century date, although portions may
+well be a century earlier. The roof of the tall tower is richly
+decorated, and the north aisle is undoubtedly the remnant of a much
+earlier edifice. There are two good brasses and some interesting
+monuments, also a memorial to Sir John Treffry, who captured the French
+standard at the battle of Poictiers.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p><p>The most important piece of domestic architecture in the neighbourhood
+is Place House, the seat of the Treffry family. This is a fine Tudor
+mansion, that is said to occupy the site of a royal palace, reputed to
+have been the residence of the Earls of Cornwall. Leland records that on
+one occasion, when the French attempted to take the town, "the wife of
+Thomas Treffry with her servants, repelled their enemies out of the
+house, in her husband's absence; whereupon he builded a right faire and
+strong embattled tower in his house, and embattled it to the walls of
+his house". The ancient church also is worth a visit, and among its many
+memorials is an elaborate monument to one of the Rashleigh family,
+another of the old Cornish families, whose history seems to be as
+ancient as the legends of the county. The inscription on the tomb reads:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"JOHN RAISHELEIGHE LYVED YEARES THREESCORE THREE</div>
+<div>AND THEN DID YEILDE TO DYE,</div>
+<div>HE DID BEQVEATHE HIS SOVLE TO GOD</div>
+<div>HIS CORPS HEREIN TO LYE.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div>"THE DEVONSHEIRE HOWSE Y<sup>t</sup> RAISHELEIGHE HEIGHT</div>
+<div>WELL SHEWETH FROM WHENCE HE CAME;</div>
+<div>HIS VIRTVOVS LIEF IN FOYE TOWNN</div>
+<div>DESERVETH ENDLESS FAME.</div>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<div>"LANION HE DID TAKE TO WIFE, BY HER HAD CHILDREN STORE,</div>
+<div>YET AT HIS DEATHE BOT DAVGHTERS SIXE, ONE SONNE HE HAD NOE MORE.</div>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span><div>ALL THEM TO PORTRAHE VNDER HERE, BECAVSE FITTE SPACE WAS NONE,</div>
+<div>THE SONNE, WHOSE ONLI ECHARGE THIS WAS, IS THEREFORE SETT ALONE."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>For the yachting man Fowey is very attractive, although during the
+season the small harbour is rather too crowded with craft. The entrance
+presents difficulties to the unexperienced amateur, but once inside the
+headlands there is usually no difficulty in securing a safe and convenient berth.</p>
+
+<p>The favourite anchorage is off Polruan, but there is deep water for a
+considerable distance beyond that straggling village.</p>
+
+<p>The river excursions from Fowey are full of charm, but so much depends
+on the state of the tide. The short trip by boat to Golant, a distance
+of two miles, should not be missed. The village occupies a cleft on the
+hillside, where the gardens and orchards reach down to the water's edge.
+Luxulyan, with its deep sylvan valley and large perched blocks of stone,
+is another favourite spot for excursions.</p>
+
+<p>At the head of the river stands Lostwithiel, with a church whose tower
+the late Mr. G. Street, R.A., was wont to designate "the pre-eminent
+glory of Cornwall". Near the church are the ruins of Restormel Castle,
+while the Fowey and the little river Lerryn are good fishing streams
+where plenty of salmon and trout fishing may be enjoyed.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p><p>For the pedestrian there is a large choice of walks within a moderate
+distance, to Par Harbour, St. Blazey, and St. Austell, the last with a
+fine church, on the walls of which is a well sculptured representation
+of the Veronica. The shore rambles are equally numerous and attractive.</p>
+
+<p>Cornwall may be said to possess three capitals. Launceston the historic
+capital, Bodmin the town of Assize, and Truro the ecclesiastical and
+commercial centre. To reach the last named for the purposes of our
+present journey, the visitor cannot do better than take train at Par
+Junction. Truro itself cannot be said to possess much in the way of
+civic beauty or historical interest, although it is an excellent centre
+for touring purposes. Moreover it has, pending the completion of the
+fine structure in the course of erection on the banks of the Mersey, the
+honour of possessing the only Protestant Cathedral erected in this
+country since the Reformation. The name "Truro" is thought to be derived
+either from <i>Tru-ru</i>, the three streets, or <i>Tre-rhiw</i>, the village on
+the slope (of the river). There is a general impression that Truro is on
+the river Fal, but the truth is that the triangular piece of land on
+which the city stands, is washed on the east by the river Allen, and on
+the west by the Kenwyn. Between these two streams lies modern Truro,
+with its stately cathedral rising high above<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> the houses that surround
+it. Truro's most eminent son, Samuel Foote, was born in 1720 at the town
+house of his father's family, the Footes of Lambesso. The house, now the
+Red Lion Hotel in Boscawen Street, has retained a good many of its
+original features, including a very fine oak staircase. Foote is
+generally considered to be the greatest of the dramatic authors of his
+class, while in power of mimicry and broad humour he had few equals. In
+late life he lost his leg through an accident in riding, a circumstance
+that led to his producing a play, <i>The Lame Lover</i>, in which his loss of
+a limb might be made a positive advantage. In all, his plays and
+dramatic pieces number about twenty, and he boasted at the close of his
+life that he had enriched the English stage with sixteen quite new characters.</p>
+
+<p>Truro was also the birthplace of the brothers Richard and John Lander,
+the explorers; Bode, a painter of some merit; and Richard Polwhele, the
+historian of Devon and Cornwall.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i027.jpg" id="i027.jpg"></a><img src="images/i027.jpg" width='700' height='471' alt="THE HARBOUR, FOWEY" /></div>
+
+<h4>THE HARBOUR, FOWEY</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The cathedral is not entirely a modern building, for it has incorporated
+with it the south aisle of the old parish church of St. Mary, with its
+long associations with the municipality. The narrow lanes and streets
+surrounding the stately pile of buildings differ essentially from the
+gardens and canonical residences that are the pride of so many of our
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>medi&aelig;val cathedrals; but they make a fitting environment for the mother
+church of a working ecclesiastical centre.</p>
+
+<p>Of several interesting houses in the neighbourhood the most important is
+Tregothnan, the residence of Lord Falmouth. The mansion is beautifully
+placed upon high ground, the views from which include the numerous
+wooded creeks of the lovely Fal, and the wide expanse of Falmouth
+Harbour, studded with the shipping of many nations. The house was
+designed by Wilkins, the architect of the National Gallery, and is in
+the Early English and Tudor styles.</p>
+
+<p>The gatehouse of Tregothnan is situated at Tresilian Bridge, the spot
+where the struggle between Charles I and Cromwell was brought to a close
+in Cornwall, by the surrender of the Royalists to General Fairfax.</p>
+
+<p>The ecclesiologist will find many interesting old churches in this
+neighbourhood, of which perhaps that at Probus is the most important, as
+it is the least known. The tower is over one hundred feet in height,
+being the highest in the county, and is exceptionally rich in delicate
+carvings and clustered pinnacles. The present building is mainly
+Perpendicular, but the foundation of a church here is attributed by
+tradition to Athelstan, who is said to have established a college of
+secular canons dedicated to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> St. Probus. The chancel screen is modern
+with the exception of the lower portion, which has been made up of the
+old fifteenth-century bench ends. A full and highly interesting account
+of this church, by Canon Fox Harvey, appeared in the <i>Truro Diocesan
+Magazine</i> for 1905. Above the woods of Tregothnan, on the left bank of
+the Truro, stands the fourteenth-century church of St. Michael Penkivel,
+with numerous brasses to the memory of the Boscawens; while on the right
+bank of the Fal is Trelissic, a classical building whose portico is an
+exact reproduction of the temple of Erectheus at Athens.</p>
+
+<p>All visitors to Truro make their way to the historic port of Falmouth by
+water, when they travel along a length of river scenery that possesses
+no equal in beauty with the exception perhaps of a somewhat similar
+reach of the romantic Dart, in the adjoining county of Devon. Any
+mention of the Dart, however, as a possible rival to the Fal, is much
+resented by Cornishmen, and one that had better be left unsaid within
+the boundaries of the delectable Duchy.</p>
+
+<p>The old port of Falmouth is situated in a sheltered bay with the
+glittering sea beyond. Landward lie the villages of Mabe and
+Constantine, with their great granite quarries, and beyond them wide
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>expanses of undulating and treeless land that is not devoid of beauty.
+Here the climate is so mild that hydrangeas become large bushes, and the
+eucalyptus attains the proportions of a forest tree. The port rose
+perhaps to its greatest height of prosperity in the days of the fourth
+George, when the famous Falmouth packets&mdash;ten-gun brigs officered by
+naval men&mdash;carried the mails to various Mediterranean ports, and to the
+North American and West Indian stations. A well preserved relic of these
+good old days may be seen at Swanpool, where, in a cottage built by
+Commander Bull, may be observed a chiselled relief of the old
+"Marlborough" packet at the top angle of the fa&ccedil;ade. As a port Falmouth
+has not kept pace with the steady growth in the size of steamships,
+although the opening of the railway to Truro set Falmouth cogitating
+great schemes in the way of spacious docks and large hotels. Some of us
+do not regret that the town's maritime ambitions have been but partially
+realized. We have many busy and flourishing seaports, but there is only
+one Falmouth, with its quaint little alleys leading to the waterside,
+inconvenient and hopelessly behind the times, yet picturesque beyond
+description and redolent of the spirit of the past. One of the most
+pleasing views of Falmouth is that obtained from the little township of
+Flushing across the harbour, once a quite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> fashionable suburb, but now a
+rather poor little fishing village.</p>
+
+<p>The excursions from Falmouth, and the places of interest that lie within
+easy reach are too numerous to mention, for their very names are an
+attraction to the inquisitive topographer. Mylor lies over the hills of
+Flushing on the beautiful waters of the Fal; St. Mawes and the fishing
+town of Gerrans are equally near; while the most hardened tourist could
+not fail to wish to visit a village endowed with the charming name of
+St. Just in Roseland.</p>
+
+<p>A reference should be made to the fine promontory of Pendennis, almost
+surrounded by the sea, on the summit of which stands the historic castle
+that has played no small part in our island story.</p>
+
+<p>There are two road routes from Falmouth to the Lizard&mdash;the regular route
+through Helston, and the other, a trifle longer, by way of the woods of
+Trelowarren, the seat of the Cornish Vyvyans. The most enjoyable way,
+however, of viewing this well-known promontory is to sail from Falmouth.
+Those who would woo the charms of the Cornish coast from the water
+should remember that even on the calmest day sailing along this exposed
+seaboard is no child's play, but a serious business. As a matter of fact
+no one who is not intimately acquainted with the coast should take a
+boat out of the harbour without<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> an experienced man on board, and no
+amateurs should attempt unaided, to sail the lugsail boats in general
+use among the fishermen. The best boat for yachting in these waters is a
+ten or fifteen ton cutter or yawl, such as can be hired at Falmouth for
+quite a moderate sum. But the coast is a dangerous one, for although the
+morning run past the dreaded Manacles, Helford river, St. Keverne's, and
+right down to the Lizard, may present no difficulties, the return
+evening journey, with a stiff breeze from the land making a choppy sea,
+and the puzzling lights at the complicated entrance to the anchorage,
+are disturbing elements that make one feel thankful to have the skipper
+on board to guide the little craft through the maze of shipping, and
+pick up her moorings. For small boat sailing the waters of the Fal are
+ideal, but here also, as on the salt waters beyond the river mouth,
+great care is required by reason of the wind cutting down the creeks and
+gullies with practically no warning. What a halo of tragedy lies over
+the dreaded Manacles! and what wonderful escapes some fortunate vessels
+have had. The author once saw a schooner of five hundred tons thread the
+narrow channels of the needle-pointed rocks in safety, but the feat was
+regarded by his companion, an old sailor of Falmouth, as little short of
+a miracle. As a matter of fact captains who get their ships among<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> the
+Manacles are so anxious to keep the news from reaching the owners that
+they hang a sail over the names of their ships.</p>
+
+<p>By a glance at the map it is obvious to anyone that no vessel going up
+or down the Channel need be within a dozen or more miles of the
+Manacles. Yet many still get there; and few are fortunate enough to get
+away without becoming total wrecks. Not only on account of nearness of
+time do the <i>Mohegan</i> and the <i>Paris</i> disasters take undoubted
+precedence in the Manacles' victims, but on one occasion the loss of
+life was appalling. The <i>Mohegan</i> was a steamship of 7000 tons in charge
+of Captain Griffiths, the commodore of the Atlantic Transport Company.
+At half-past two on her second day out she signalled "All well" at
+Prawle Point. Four and a half hours later, when the light was good and
+the wind not high, she dashed into the Vase Rock, one of the outer
+Manacles, and within twenty minutes all except the upper portions of her
+masts and funnels were beneath the water. How the <i>City of Paris</i> got on
+the rocks is equally a mystery, for she is computed to have been twenty
+miles out of her proper course when she struck, and the weather was fine and the night clear.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i035.jpg" id="i035.jpg"></a><img src="images/i035.jpg" width='475' height='700' alt="VIEW OF FALMOUTH HARBOUR" /></div>
+
+<h4>VIEW OF FALMOUTH HARBOUR</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>As Mr. Albert Bluett says: "We have the uncontradicted statements of
+seamen of all classes, that the bell-buoy, fixed to one of the outer
+Manacles, is utterly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> inadequate to warn vessels of their nearness to
+danger. And when the sounds of that bell came in the landward breeze to
+where I stood looking across the reef, they seemed, not a message of
+warning to those who cross the deep, but as the death-knell of the
+hundreds of men, women, and children who have breathed their last in the
+sea around the Manacles."</p>
+
+<p>There is no doubt that generations of smugglers and wreckers existed all
+along this exposed and dangerous coast, and the lawlessness of the
+Cornish folk in such matters as smuggling, and pilfering from wrecks,
+earned for them a very unenviable reputation. The deeds of Jack
+Rattenbury, of Beer, and the daring exploits of Harry Paye, of Poole,
+fade into insignificance by comparison with the doings of John Carter,
+who was known and feared all along the wild Cornish seaboard. He was
+known locally as the "King of Prussia", owing, it is said, to his
+resemblance to Frederick the Great. Be this as it may, Bessy's Cove, a
+small bay a few miles to the west of Helston, has, since Carter's day,
+been known as Prussia Cove, a striking tribute to the power of the
+smuggler. At this cove Carter widened the harbour, fortified the
+promontory that overlooks it, and adopted the numerous caves for the
+storage of illicit cargoes. These splendid and natural storehouses may
+still be seen, together with the "King of Prussia's" house, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> the
+remains of the battery he erected; for this intrepid smuggler did not
+hesitate to open fire on any of the king's ships that ventured within
+range of his guns. Carter flourished in the middle of the eighteenth
+century, and it is difficult for us to realize to-day that such a state
+of lawlessness could have existed in the days of our great-grandparents.</p>
+
+<p>The difficulties of patrolling the coast in the days before steamships,
+and the passive assistance he must have received from the people,
+enabled Carter to carry on a very profitable trade, although he
+naturally had many escapes from capture.</p>
+
+<p>Even when arrested in the act of conveying kegs of brandy to his
+customers, he appears to have found no difficulty in proving an <i>alibi</i>.
+The reason for this of course is that smuggling was regarded with more
+than toleration by the people and the gentry alike, while even the local
+administrators of justice had an interest in the ventures. The result
+was that it was impossible for the Revenue officers to obtain a
+conviction, for the magistrates regarded the flimsiest <i>alibi</i> as excuse
+sufficient for them to set the "King of Prussia" at liberty.</p>
+
+<p>At length the authorities appear to have realized that the ordinary
+legal methods, as administered by the local magistracy, were quite
+useless. Accordingly a strongly armed Revenue cutter sailed for Prussia<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>
+Cove with orders to storm the stronghold and destroy the battery. As the
+cutter's instructions were not sent through the usual local channels,
+there was no leakage of the commander's intentions, and having received
+no warning of the expedition, the smugglers were taken completely by
+surprise. As soon as the hostile intentions of the cutter were revealed,
+Carter opened a heavy fire on the small boats that conveyed the landing
+party; but after a fierce fight, in which there were heavy casualties on
+both sides, a landing was effected, and the fortress carried by storm.
+The work of dismantling the fort was considered of more importance than
+the immediate capture of the smugglers, and nothing seems to be known as
+to whether they were ever arrested and tried.</p>
+
+<p>For the exploration of the Lizard and Kynance districts there is no
+better centre than Helston, although those who find little to interest
+them in the interior of the peninsula may be advised to proceed direct
+to Lizard Town, as being in closer proximity to such attractive spots as
+Mullion and Cadgwith. Helston itself is an oldfashioned town that has
+not many attractions for the modern tourist. It is a borough of some
+antiquity, and once possessed a Norman castle which fell into ruin in
+the reign of Edward IV. The annual festival known as Helston Flora Day
+is generally considered to be a survival<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> of an old Roman custom. It was
+originally held on the 8th of May, but in recent years has taken place
+on any convenient date. The greatest attraction of the place to-day is
+the Loo or Loe Pool, a large sheet of water two miles in length and five
+in circumference. This is quite one of the largest natural lakes in the
+south of England, and is a favourite resort for anglers. It is separated
+from the sea by a bar of shingle, scarcely three hundred yards wide at
+low tide. On this bar, in 1807, the <i>Anson</i>, a 40-gun ship, was wrecked,
+with a loss of sixty lives. One of the small inlets of this lake,
+Penrose Creek, is well known to botanists as the home of the little
+plant <i>Nitella hyalina</i>. The weed is found in four feet of water,
+occupying less than twelve square yards, and is not known to exist in
+any other locality in Great Britain.</p>
+
+<p>Mullion Cove is considered by many people to be the most beautiful spot
+along the Cornish Riviera. It certainly has many attractions for the
+artist, and its caves and crags have been photographed, sketched, and
+painted <i>ad nauseam</i>.</p>
+
+<p>No one with antiquarian tastes should neglect to visit the church of
+Mullion Church-town, a good Perpendicular building that was restored in
+1870. The many features of interest include portions of the old rood
+screen, and a very fine set of carved bench ends<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> which are justly
+considered to be the richest in carving of any in the west of England.</p>
+
+<p>The view from the high land above the cove is one of great beauty, with
+St. Michael's Mount rising abruptly from the waters of the bay, and
+beyond it the clustered houses of Penzance.</p>
+
+<p>Kynance Cove is an equally charming place that lies one and a half miles
+to the north-west of the Lizard. The bay is studded with a quantity of
+scattered rocks, which rejoice in such curious names as Devil's Bellows,
+Devil's Throat, the Letter Box, &amp;c. At Landewednack in the parish of
+Lizard Point, the last sermon in the ancient Cornish language is said to
+have been preached in 1678. The church is one of the most beautifully
+situated along these wild southern shores.</p>
+
+<p>The first view of Penzance from Marazion (known locally as Market Jew)
+is one that is never forgotten. Right before us, rises the famous St.
+Michael's Mount, capped with its architectural adornment; to the right
+the bay swings round in a semicircle to Penzance, beyond which is the
+harbour of Newlyn, the village that has played so great a part in the
+history of our modern school of painting.</p>
+
+<p>Certainly nowhere else in England is found the like of St. Michael's
+Mount, with its curious mingling of a medi&aelig;val fortress and modern
+residence; of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> antiquarian treasures and up-to-date conveniences. At the
+foot of the rock is a tiny harbour and a cluster of cottages, and here
+also is a kind of station for the railway, which carries coal,
+provisions, and luggage up to the top of the Mount. When the tide is out
+the Mount can be reached along a causeway, but the road is very rough
+for walking, as one would expect from its peculiar position on the bed of the sea.</p>
+
+<p>The Mount is really a pyramidical mass of granite, a mile in
+circumference, capped by a cluster of castellated buildings. The steep
+ascent up the side of the rock is commanded by a cross-wall pierced with
+embrasures, and a platform mounting two small batteries. The house
+itself has a few interesting points and an excellent chapel with some
+good details of the Decorated and Perpendicular periods. From the summit
+of the rock a superb panorama of the Cornish coast and the
+wide-spreading Channel may be obtained. The mythical legends and
+traditions that have grown up around this solitary rock bear much
+resemblance to those that are told about its French counterpart, the
+Mont St. Michel of Normandy. The romantic legends of both concern great
+heroes and super-terrestrial beings doing battle with evil dragons and fiendish monsters.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i043.jpg" id="i043.jpg"></a><img src="images/i043.jpg" width='700' height='473' alt="ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT" /></div>
+
+<h4>ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The Mount is certainly a very attractive spot, and, by the kindness of
+the owner, access to the castle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> is generally allowed. The building has
+been much modernized during recent years, but many of its original
+features remain. Some alterations at the chapel led to the discovery of
+a blocked-up Gothic doorway, which, being opened, revealed a flight of
+stone steps terminating in a dark vault, wherein lay the skeleton of a
+man. The old refectory of the monks is the most distinctive feature of
+the present house. The Mount is a parish without a public-house, the
+only one which ever existed there having been closed a few years ago.</p>
+
+<p>In an old volume on Cornwall, published in 1824, we learn that "Turbot
+are caught in great plenty during the Summer Season. In Mount's Bay
+there have been instances of 30 being taken in an evening with the hook
+and line. When plentiful, they are sold from 4<i>d.</i> to 6<i>d.</i> per pound."
+Leland writes: "Penzantes about a mile from Mousehold, standing fast in
+the shore of Mount Bay, is the Westest Market Town of all Cornwall,
+Socur for botes or shypes, but a forced pere or Key. Theyr is but a
+Chapel yn the sayd towne, as ys in Newlyn, for theyr paroche Chyrches be
+more than a mile off."</p>
+
+<p>The neighbourhood of Penzance is rendered very attractive by the variety
+of its scenery, and the glorious bay offers unlimited opportunities for
+boating and fishing. The mother church of Penzance is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> that of Madron a
+short distance away. The building stands 350 feet above the sea and
+contains some old memorials, including a tombstone to the memory of
+George Daniell, a local benefactor. His epitaph reads:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"Belgia me birth, Britaine me breeding gave,</div>
+<div>Cornwall a wife, ten children, and a grave."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Madron Well is a chalybeate spring once in much esteem for its curative
+properties, and its prophetical powers in respect to love and marriage.
+The holy well here, situated on the moor about a mile to the north-west
+of the church, was partially destroyed during the Parliamentary wars, by
+Major Ceely of St. Ives.</p>
+
+<p>One of the most delightful excursions from Penzance is that to Mousehole
+and Lamorna Cove, and one for which the whole of a day should be allotted.</p>
+
+<p>While in the neighbourhood of Penzance the visitor who is fortunate
+enough to be a good sailor should not fail to make the trip to the
+Scilly Isles, although the passage is generally a trying one. The
+islands consist mainly of low rocks, covered with gorse and heather
+where their slopes are not given over to flower growing, that great
+industry of these solitary isles. The coastward sides of the downs
+terminate in granitic rocks which are a terror to navigators.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> Even
+under the guard of three lighthouses and a lightship, thousands of lives
+have been lost on the Scillies, and there is a prodigious litter of
+wreckage wedged in among the granite boulders. Probably the worst
+disasters were the wreck of Sir Cloudesley Shovell's fleet in 1707, and
+that of the <i>Schiller</i> in 1875. Of the hundreds of lesser calamities
+there is no record. St. Agnes is perhaps the worst offender, and the
+lighthouse keeper there is a gloomy man. It has been fittingly said that
+his landscape of rocks must be about as enlivening to him as a square
+mile or so of tombstones.</p>
+
+<p>Penzance itself is a town of many attractions of the civilized order,
+and the whole of the neighbourhood is lovely. It is the most westerly
+town in England, and one that has a good deal of ancient history. The
+older part of the town, lying between Market Jew Street and the harbour,
+has retained a good deal of its ancient domestic architecture, but the
+churches have no features of any particular interest.</p>
+
+<p>The fishing village of Newlyn is a picturesque but ill-built group of
+old cottages, fish-cellars, bungalows, and artists' studios. As an art
+centre it has played, and is still playing, a very considerable part,
+while many of the native models of the place look out from gilded frames
+in half the picture galleries of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> Europe. It must unquestionably be the
+most painted spot in the British Isles, and it would be difficult to
+find a single nook or corner that has not been depicted on paper or
+canvas. One of the curious little streets bears the exotic name of "Rue
+des Beaux Arts", a reminder of the fact that it was in a dwelling of
+this street that Frank Bramley painted his dramatic picture "<i>A Hopeless
+Dawn</i>", now in the Tate Gallery. There is a considerable artists' colony
+still resident here, although a good many of those who first brought the
+place into fame have migrated to pastures new, and particularly to the
+neighbouring port of St. Ives. At the same time Newlyn is still, and
+always will be, a magic word in art circles, for here such painters as
+Stanhope Forbes, Frank Bramley, J. A. Gotch, Walter Langley, Sydney
+Grier, Chevalier Tayler, to mention but a few, introduced a new if
+somewhat exotic phase into the traditions of British art. Mr. A.
+Stanhope Forbes, A.R.A., writes: "I had come from France, where I had
+been studying, and wandering down into Cornwall, came one spring morning
+along that dusty road by which Newlyn is approached from Penzance.
+Little did I think that the cluster of grey-roofed houses which I saw
+before me against the hillside would be my home for so many years. What
+lodestone of artistic metal the place contains I know not, but its
+effects were strongly felt, in the studios of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> Paris and Antwerp
+particularly, by a number of young English painters studying there, who
+just about then, by some common impulse, seemed drawn towards this
+corner of their native land.... It was part of our creed to paint our
+pictures directly from nature, and not merely to rely upon sketches and
+studies which we could afterwards amplify in the comfort of a studio."</p>
+
+<p>The road from Penzance to Land's End being rather dull and devoid of
+interest, the best way to reach the outlying promontory is by one of the
+G.W.R. motors that make the regular journey. A stay of a short time is
+usually made at the Logan Rock, perched on the summit of a pile of
+crags. To reach it involves rather a breakneck scramble down and stiff
+climb up, and it is doubtful if the satisfaction of having done the feat
+is equal to the amount of fatigue involved. The stone rocks to a
+considerable degree, but less than it did before it was upset in 1824 by
+Lieutenant Goldsmith, who was commanded to replace it by the Admiralty.
+St. Buryan Church and Cross are both worth inspection. The former has a
+tower ninety feet in height, while the latter has been attributed to the
+Romano-British period. It is a plain little erection of stone standing
+on a base of five steps. On one side is carved in low relief a fully
+clothed figure of the Saviour with hands extended horizontally.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p><p>The first aspect of Land's End, with its covering of turf, worn smooth
+by the feet of many trippers, is disappointing; and it is only when we
+begin to wander about the lesser used trackways that it is possible to
+realize that this is no ordinary promontory, but a lonely headland
+broken into a hundred beetling crags, with huge granite boulders piled
+one on another, forming a stalwart bulwark against the onrushing waves
+of the Atlantic. In the crevices of these miniature precipices purple
+heather and golden gorse have set them here and there, while the silver
+lichens have clothed the scarred surfaces of rock with a tender grace.
+The wind-swept downs that cap the lonely headland are also not without a
+certain beauty, from the very nature of the surrounding waste of wild grey sea.</p>
+
+<p>As we gaze over the waters from the top of this lonely rock, we think
+instinctively of the lost land of Lyonesse, that antiquaries and
+geologists tell us once stretched from our feet to the Scillies.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i051.jpg" id="i051.jpg"></a><img src="images/i051.jpg" width='700' height='473' alt="ON THE LERRYN RIVER" /></div>
+
+<h4>ON THE LERRYN RIVER</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>That such a denudation actually occurred is of course within the bounds
+of geological possibility, if we take the precaution to date the
+incident far enough back, to remote and prehistoric days. There is
+little credence to be attached to the local traditions, which affirm
+that fishermen on a calm, clear day, have seen the ruins of house and
+castle, cottage and farm, covered<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> with dulse instead of stonecrop; or
+the shattered spires of one or two of the reputed "hundred and twenty
+churches". If such a kingdom ever existed it was long before the
+medi&aelig;val era, and a spired church belongs to the Gothic period.</p>
+
+<p>Sir Richard Carew, the friend and contemporary of Raleigh and of
+Campden, assures us not only that proofs of the lost kingdom remained in
+his day, but that the fishermen's nets frequently brought up portions of
+"doors and windows" from the submerged houses.</p>
+
+<p>At the same time there is probably a certain rough truth in the old
+legends, the details having been added from time to time. As Mr. Arthur
+Salmon says: "When we speak of a lost Lyonesse we are not dealing with
+absurdities. We must only be careful to date it far enough backward, or
+rather to leave it without date. It is an alluring vision on which we
+can linger without the sense of being actually unhistoric."</p>
+
+<p>Certain is it that if we examine <i>The Life and Death of Prince Arthur</i>,
+the <i>History of Merlin</i>, or the <i>Mort d'Arthur</i>, we shall find
+"Cornewaile" and "The Lyonesse" spoken of with an airy indifference as
+to their geographical limits. Thus it may possibly be that, by the title
+of Lyonesse, Leonois, or any other of the various renderings of the
+name, it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> intended to cover such portion of the west country as lay
+beyond that part of Devonshire, which, down to so late as the year 410
+of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, continued to be known as Cornwall.</p>
+
+<p>It is well worth while to stay the night at the little hostel near the
+Land's End for the purpose of viewing this westernmost piece of England
+under the magic spell of a stormy sunset or a misty dawn. The sun sinks
+beyond the vast expanse of open, wide, and illimitable sea, heaving with
+a deep and mysterious ground swell as the long waves roll shorewards.
+Between the great pinnacles of rock blue chasms yawn and pass away, and
+the bases of the nearer rocks are momentarily hidden by the foam of the surging waves.</p>
+
+<p>Far out, far beyond where the Longships lighthouse blinks its warning
+light over the waste of waters, a solitary ship goes down into the
+western horizon; and the golden clouds of summer follow her, one by one,
+into the bosom of the night.</p>
+
+<p>The holiday season, with its bands of health-seeking and somewhat noisy
+tourists, is not the best time of the year for a visit to Land's End. As
+a show place it has been compelled to provide certain conveniences for
+the traveller, and these jarring notes of modernity are rather
+aggressive. There is much to be said for Mr. W. H. Hudson's plea for a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>national fund that shall purchase the Land's End; but one fears much
+water will have flowed around the historic headland before a "Society
+for the Preservation of Noble Landscape" becomes an accomplished fact.</p>
+
+<p>About a mile from the cliffs stands the rocky little islet of Carn Br&acirc;s,
+whereon is situated the Longships lighthouse. Although such a short
+distance away this lighthouse, and that on the Wolf Rock seven miles
+off, are frequently cut off from all communication with the mainland by
+stress of weather. The submerged crags that fringe this portion of the
+coast are many, while the larger of those whose jagged points appear
+above the water, are the Armed Knight, the Irish Lady, and Enys Dodman,
+the last being pierced by a fine natural arch about forty feet in
+height. The Cornish name for the Armed Knight was "An Marogeth Arvowed",
+and it was also called Guela or Guelaz, the "rock easily seen".</p>
+
+<p>To enjoy fully these western cliffs, one should stay in the locality for
+some days; be on the spot at all hours, see the mists of morning and the
+mellow tints of evening when all is calm and peaceful. At such times
+those who love the sea breezes, and the hoary rocks bearded with moss
+and lichen; those who are fond of the legends and traditions of the
+past, will find much to interest them at the Land's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> End. It is a
+favourite spot with artists, many of whom come year after year to depict
+its frowning cliffs and heaving belt of sea, for, curiously enough, the
+grandest effects of the waves are frequently seen in calm weather, when
+the heavy ground swell causes the waves to break with great force on the rocks.</p>
+
+<p>In his criticism on Turner's picture of the Land's End, Ruskin wrote:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"At the Land's End there is to be seen the entire disorder of the
+surges, when every one of them, divided and entangled among
+promontories as it rolls, and beaten back post by post from walls
+of rock on this side and that side, recoils like the defeated
+division of a great army, throwing all behind it into disorder,
+breaking up the succeeding waves into vertical ridges, which, in
+their turn, yet more totally shattered upon the shore, retire in
+more hopeless confusion, until the whole surface of the sea becomes
+one dizzy whirl of rushing, writhing, tortured, undirected rage,
+bounding and crashing, and coiling in an anarchy of enormous power,
+subdivided into myriads of waves, of which every one is not, be it
+remembered, a separate surge, but part and portion of a vast one,
+actuated by eternal power, and giving in every direction the mighty
+undulation of impetuous line, which glides over the rocks and
+writhes in the wind, overwhelming the one and piercing the other
+with the form, fury, and swiftness of lambent fire."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i057.jpg" id="i057.jpg"></a><img src="images/i057.jpg" width='700' height='473' alt="PENZANCE FROM NEWLYN HARBOUR" /></div>
+
+<h4>PENZANCE FROM NEWLYN HARBOUR</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+
+<h2>LAND'S END TO NEWQUAY</h2>
+
+<p>No visitor to Cornwall can fail to notice the remarkable number of
+wells, situated near stone circles, dolmens, cromlechs, or churches that
+have replaced them in more modern times, for well-worship was
+undoubtedly one of the most persistent of the pagan customs with which
+the early Christian missionaries had to deal. Sir Norman Lockyer
+writes:&mdash;"It seems to be accepted now that well-worship in Britain
+originated long before the Christian era; that it was not introduced by
+the Christian missionaries, but rather they found it in vogue on their
+arrival, and tolerated it at first and utilized it afterwards, as they
+did a great many other pagan customs."</p>
+
+<p>It is of course quite easy to understand how a once devout custom
+degenerated into mere superstition, how some wells came to be called
+"wishing wells", &amp;c., in which the modern village maidens drop their
+pins, in much the same way as their pagan ancestors left offerings to
+invoke the aid of the tutelary saint.</p>
+
+<p>The superstitions attached to the wells of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>Cornwall are as strong
+to-day as ever they were in the past, and there seems little reason to
+doubt that the good condition of wells, cromlechs, and other antiquities
+in the county, is due to the widespread traditions that dreadful harm
+will befall those who disturb or mutilate any ancient remains.</p>
+
+<p>Sennen Cove lying immediately to the north of Land's End is a very
+charming little spot that shows signs of becoming a fashionable
+watering-place. The church, situated a mile inland, is dedicated to St.
+Senan or Senannus, one of those numerous Irish saints who showed such a
+predilection for the land of Cornwall. It is a low, weather-beaten
+structure with a good tower, and standing nearly 400 feet above the
+level of the sea, it forms a conspicuous land- and sea-mark. Within,
+there is a mutilated alabaster figure that is thought to have
+represented the Virgin and Child, and a small piece of mural painting.
+East of the church, a few yards from the roadside, and near the end of a
+small cottage, is the stone known as the Table M&ecirc;n, a block of granite
+nearly eight feet in length, and three feet high. The word "main", or
+"m&ecirc;n", is the old Cornish for "stone". Here, according to tradition, a
+great battle took place between King Arthur and some Danish invaders,
+and the stone is also said to have been used as a royal dining table,
+when the number of kings who dined<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> here is given by some old
+topographers as three, while others speak of seven. Hals gives their
+names as follows: "Ethelbert, fifth king of Kent; Cissa, second king of
+the South Saxons; Kingills, sixth king of the West Saxons; Sebert, third
+king of the East Saxons; Ethelfred, seventh king of the Northumbers;
+Penda, ninth king of the Mercians; and Sigebert, fifth king of the East
+Angles; who all flourished about the year 600". Merlin, the Wizard, who
+appears to have prophesied something about every nook in the kingdom,
+foretold that a yet larger number of kings will assemble around this
+rock for a similar purpose on the destruction of the world. A rock near
+Lanyon Croml&ecirc;h claims a similar honour, and the same story is attached
+to another at Bosavern in the parish of St. Just.</p>
+
+<p>Sennen Cove is situated on the curve of Whitesand Bay, which terminates
+to the northward in the fine bluff headland of Cape Cornwall. It was
+once a favourite spot for smugglers and wreckers, and here Athelstan,
+after his final defeat of the Cornish, started to conquer the Scilly
+Isles. Stephen landed here on his first arrival in England, as did
+Perkin Warbeck when he sought to seize the crown he claimed. King John
+is also said to have landed here on his return from Ireland. Cape
+Cornwall, a mile and a half from the village, is one of the most
+prominent headlands<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> of the western coast, but being in the
+neighbourhood of the great mining district it is somewhat neglected by
+visitors, a remark that applies to the whole of this portion of the
+coast as far as St. Ives, the great exception being Gurnards' Head. The
+inland country is bleak and barren, with a number of mining shafts
+capping the hillocks, with the result that the uninviting hinterland has
+inspired few people with the desire to explore a really grand and rocky piece of coast.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly a mile south-west of Cape Cornwall are the Brisons, two fearful
+and dangerous rocks, rising about seventy feet above high-water mark.
+Brison is Cornish for prison, and tradition affirms that these rocks
+were once used as prisons.</p>
+
+<p>North of the cape is Kenidjack headland, Porthleden being the name of
+the cove that divides the promontories. Skirting the coast from
+Kenidjack many fine bits of rocky scenery are passed. Botallack Head,
+with its old engine houses perched on its rocky crags, has a singularly
+savage appearance. The mine is one of the oldest in Cornwall, and the
+ancient workings continued for a considerable distance under the bed of
+the sea. The Levant, another submarine mine to the north, has also
+considerable workings beneath the sea.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i063.jpg" id="i063.jpg"></a><img src="images/i063.jpg" width='470' height='700' alt="IN THE HARBOUR, NEWLYN" /></div>
+
+<h4>IN THE HARBOUR, NEWLYN</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>The next point of interest is Pendeen, or Pendinas, the "castled
+headland", near to which is Pendeen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> House, now a farm, but once a
+seventeenth-century manor house, in which the celebrated Cornish
+historian and antiquary, Dr. William Borlase, was born in 1695. He
+corresponded with Pope to whom on one occasion he sent a Cornish
+diamond, which was thus acknowledged by the poet: "I have received your
+gift, and have so placed it in my grotto, that it will resemble the
+donor, in the shade, but shining". The famous cave called the Pendeen
+Vau, was discovered a few yards from his home. For his day he was quite
+an enlightened antiquary, and although modern research has shown his
+<i>Antiquities of Cornwall</i> to be full of pitfalls for the unwary, it is a
+book that has formed the basis for many an interesting volume on the
+county. The church of Pendeen occupies as bleak a site as could anywhere
+be found in England. It was designed and built by Robert Aitken the
+famous Cornish missioner. It was fashioned on the plan of the ancient
+cathedral of Iona, and was built almost entirely by the people themselves.</p>
+
+<p>A little eastward of Pendeen is the church town of Morvah, "the place by
+the sea", which has traditions relating to mermaids. Northward is
+Porthmorna, or Porth Moina, the Monk's Port, formed on one side by the
+fine cliff of Bosigran, where the rocks of granite have a pale reddish
+tint; so that when lit up by the sun they have a very brilliant
+appearance. A few<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> years ago the bleak hills and towering cliffs in this
+locality were a favourite haunt of the peregrine falcon, the cliff hawk,
+while the blue rock dove, and Baillon's crake have been found in the
+district. Bosigran lies just under Cairn Galva, whose boldly-formed
+outline is a conspicuous landmark. Just beyond Porthmeor is the
+Gurnard's Head, the finest and most romantic point on the north side of
+the Land's End, and one of the show places of the county. The ancient
+name for the headland was Treryn Dinas. Portions of a small chapel
+remain on the isthmus, and there was once a holy well close by.</p>
+
+<p>The village of Zennor, about a quarter of a mile distant, lies in a wild
+and stony district. Within the very interesting church are some quaint
+bench ends, one of which depicts a mermaid, complete with comb, mirror,
+and fishy tail, but the carving is of a very primitive order. On Zennor
+Beacon is the famous Zennor Quoit or Cromlech, the largest in Cornwall,
+and one of the finest in the country. Between Zennor and St. Ives a wild
+tract of country forms the parish of Towednack with an ancient church
+within which is a true chancel arch, a constructional feature that is of
+rare occurrence in Cornish churches.</p>
+
+<p>The irregularly built little town of St. Ives, which has not inaptly
+been called the "Art Centre of England", is made up of two distinct
+parts. The older<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> portion, which consists of oldfashioned houses, and
+narrow tortuous streets, is situated on a low spit of land called the
+"island", while "up-along" on the higher ground above the station, is
+the favourite and fashionable holiday resort. The ancient name of the
+place, Porth Ia, perpetuates the memory of another Irish saint, Ia, who
+is claimed as a convert of St. Patrick, and who is said to have floated
+from the shores of the Emerald Isle to those of Cornwall on a miraculous
+leaf, "by which", Mr. Arthur Salmon tells us, "is clearly meant a
+coracle of the kind still to be seen in parts of Wales". The cell of St.
+Ia stood on the site of the present parish church, which is said to
+contain her bones, and this saint is not to be confounded with those of
+St. Ive, near Liskeard, or St. Ives in Huntingdonshire. The position of
+St. Ives, on the western slope of an extensive bay, and with two
+remarkably fine sandy beaches, is one of uncommon beauty. The finest
+views of the town and the neighbourhood are those obtained from the
+grounds of the Tregenna Castle Hotel, and from the Battery Rocks.</p>
+
+<p>A lofty hill to the south of the town, has a pyramidical erection of
+granite in memory of John Knill, born in 1733. The obelisk bears three
+inscriptions: "Johannes Knill, 1782"; "I know that my Redeemer liveth";
+and "Resurgam". After serving his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>apprenticeship to a solicitor, Knill
+became Collector of Customs, and afterwards Mayor of St. Ives. Long
+before his death, which took place in 1811, he erected this mausoleum on
+Worvas Hill, but it was never applied to its purpose, as he was buried
+in London. Among the provisions of a curious will he ordained that
+"certain ceremonies should be observed once every five years, on the
+festival of St. James the Apostle; ten pounds to be spent in a dinner
+for the mayor, collector of Customs, and clergyman, and two friends to
+be invited by each of them, making a party of nine persons, to dine at
+some tavern in the borough; five pounds to be equally divided amongst
+ten girls, natives of the borough and daughters of seamen, fishermen, or
+tinners, each of them not exceeding ten years of age, who shall, between
+ten and twelve o'clock of the forenoon of that day, dance for a quarter
+of an hour at least, on the ground adjoining the mausoleum, and after
+the dance sing the 100th Psalm of the old version, to the fine old tune
+to which the same was then sung in St. Ives Church; one pound to a
+fiddler who shall play to the girls while dancing and singing at the
+mausoleum, and also before them on their return home therefrom; two
+pounds to two widows of seamen, fishers, or tinners of the borough,
+being sixty-four years old or upwards, who shall attend the dancing and
+singing of the girls,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> and walk before them immediately after the
+fiddler, and certify to the mayor, collector of Customs, and clergyman,
+that the ceremonies have been duly performed; one pound to be laid out
+in white ribbons for breast-knots for the girls and widows, and a
+cockade for the fiddler, to be worn by them respectively on that day and
+on the Sunday following". The observances have been duly carried out
+since the death of John Knill. The next observance will be in 1911, and
+when once at St. Ives the present writer was fortunate enough to witness
+the quaint ceremonies that are enacted every five years around the
+mausoleum of John Knill, who has succeeded in making a posthumous name
+for himself at a very trifling cost.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i069.jpg" id="i069.jpg"></a><img src="images/i069.jpg" width='470' height='700' alt="LAND'S END" /></div>
+
+<h4>LAND'S END</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>It was at St. Ives that Anders Zorn, the celebrated Swedish artist,
+painted his first picture with oils, a fine work that now hangs on the
+walls of the Luxembourg. The sketcher from nature who clambers along
+this rocky coast in search of colour notes or impressions, will
+perpetually experience the difficulty of not knowing where to halt,
+always a difficult problem for a painter in a new territory. Many are
+they who have seen the day draw to a close with nothing accomplished.
+This is not the result of idleness, but on account of the feeling of
+expectancy, the ever-alluring idea, that by going a little farther
+something really uncommon will be found. Points of interest <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>innumerable
+will be passed in the pursuit of this beautiful will-o'-the-wisp, this
+perfect composition which never can, and never will, materialize on
+paper or on canvas.</p>
+
+<p>Hayle and Lelant are both worth visiting. The former has a fine beach
+for bathing, and the latter is renowned for its golf course. Lelant is a
+very ancient town whose fine old church is the mother church of both
+Towednack and St. Ives.</p>
+
+<p>Redruth and Camborne are important mining towns to which no one would go
+in search of the picturesque, and the bleak and barren surroundings may
+not inaptly be called the "Black Country" of Cornwall. Gwennap Pit, near
+Redruth, was the natural amphitheatre where John Wesley preached with
+marked success to thousands of Cornish miners. For the antiquary there
+are many interesting remains at Carn Brea, a rocky eminence overlooking
+the town, and capped with a monument, erected in 1836, to Francis, Baron
+de Dunstanville and Basset, of Tehidy.</p>
+
+<p>The best mine to explore, should one's tastes run in that direction, is
+the Dolcoath Mine, near Camborne station. The mine yields both copper
+and tin, and has reached the depth of 2250 feet. Portreath is to a
+certain extent the port of Redruth. The cliffs are rather fine and the
+seas exceptionally so in rough weather, but as a good deal of refuse
+water from the mines is discharged here the result<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> is that the sea for
+a considerable distance is frequently tinged with a thick reddish colour.</p>
+
+<p>Between Portreath and St. Agnes the coast scenery is rendered very
+attractive by reason of the number of coves into which it is broken,
+such as Porth Towan, a very favourite spot with visitors.</p>
+
+<p>The little town of St. Agnes is steadily growing in popularity, while
+St. Agnes Beacon is of great geological interest, and from the summit a
+fine view is obtained of the Cornish coast from Trevose Head to St. Ives.</p>
+
+<p>Opie, the painter, was a native of St. Agnes, where he was born in 1761.
+The house is passed on the way to Perranporth, and is known as "Harmony
+Cottage". Opie's artistic talent is said to have been first recognized
+by "Peter Pindar", when that worthy resided at Truro. A large number of
+his early paintings may still be seen in many of the houses in the
+vicinity of his birthplace, although a considerable number have been
+carried off by discerning collectors.</p>
+
+<p>A few years ago Perranporth was nothing but a small cluster of
+fishermen's cottages, but the fine stretches of golden sand and some
+imposing masses of arched rocks have brought many visitors, for whom
+increased accommodation has had to be found. One and a half miles from
+Perran Round, an ancient<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> amphitheatre, are portions of an old church,
+long hidden in the sand, over which St. Piran, or St. Piranus officiated
+in the sixth century. The church of Perranporth is a chapel of ease to
+Perranzabuloe, i.e., <i>Piran-in-sabulo</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Although Max M&uuml;ller satisfied himself that St. Piran was a purely
+mythical figure, and that the word "Piran" meant merely a "digger",
+others assure us that there is enough evidence to satisfy a court of law
+that Piran was connected with the school founded by Patrick, and that in
+the fifth century he was a missionary in Cornwall. Excavations are being
+made constantly around this little church half-buried in the fine sand,
+and many important discoveries have resulted. There appears to be little
+doubt that the church shares with Gwithian oratory the distinction of
+being the earliest Christian edifice of which any considerable portions
+remain in England. At the same time it is as well to bear in mind that
+the part of the material structure revealed by the spade is some two
+centuries later in date than St. Piran, the patron saint of the Tinners.</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i075.jpg" id="i075.jpg"></a><img src="images/i075.jpg" width='472' height='700' alt="IN ST. IVES HARBOUR" /></div>
+
+<h4>IN ST. IVES HARBOUR</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>"There is a charm in the Cornish coast which belongs to no other coast
+in the world." So wrote Dean Alford many years ago, and no portion of
+Cornwall possesses greater charm than the section as seen from Newquay
+Beacon. Like so many of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> its neighbouring holiday resorts, Newquay was a
+very small and not very well known little place until the Great Western
+Railway gave it four trains a day from London, advertised its charms in
+the press, and depicted them in glowing colours on innumerable posters.
+The result is that Newquay has boomed to such an extent that it is now
+the great centre of attraction on the north coast. Twenty years ago
+Newquay was little more than a cluster of cottages, but so rapid has
+been its development that we seem to be centuries away from the days
+when there was no fashionable hotel on the Headland, and when the place
+was reached along a jolting little mineral line from Par Junction.</p>
+
+<p>The town itself is not old enough to be interesting, and as it possesses
+no "front" but few of its streets command a view of the bold
+promontories, fine beaches, tidal inlets, and the singularly blue sea,
+that make it such an attractive place for a holiday.</p>
+
+<p>As Mr. J. Henwood Thomas says: "One of the chief glories of Newquay is
+its grand headland. Running right out into the Atlantic it forms a bold,
+natural pier, in comparison with which the costly artificial piers which
+are to be found at most watering-places of repute are mere toys. Nothing
+can be more exhilarating than a walk to the extreme end of this jagged
+promontory. It is like breathing a vitalizing essence."</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p><p>Here, on the beaches of Newquay and Fistral Bay, one may go to the
+verge of the waves, and breathe the ozone that rises from the line of
+breakers, without the necessity of making detours to avoid fruit-stalls
+and bathing-saloons. Fortunately the fine sands around Newquay have not
+yet become a mart for sweetmeats and cocoanuts, nor are they the happy
+hunting ground of the negro minstrel and other troupes of fantastic entertainers.</p>
+
+<p>The chief, and one might say the only glory of North Cornwall, is the
+magnificent line of coast, particularly that portion of it bounded by
+Bedruthan Steps on the one hand, and Watergate Bay on the other, with
+Mawgan Porth and Beacon Cove lying between.</p>
+
+<p>At low tides Watergate Bay has a splendid stretch of sands, more than
+two miles in length, and along the cliffs here sea-pinks, sea-lavender,
+and golden samphire may be found, although the last named is becoming
+extremely rare. The cliffs along this portion of the coast are pierced
+by numerous shady caves and caverns, some of which, like the Cathedral
+Cavern and the one known as the Banqueting Hall, are of vast extent, and
+are not infrequently used for concerts and other entertainments held in
+aid of local charities.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the necessary changes and improvements due to the ever
+increasing number of visitors,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> there is still much that is primitive to
+be seen around Newquay. Almost every ruin, rock, and church has its
+legend, more or less ancient and authentic, and once off the beaten
+track there is much that will interest the lovers of saint and folklore,
+as well as the admirers of coast scenery of a bold and broken kind.</p>
+
+<p>All visitors to Newquay make their way to Crantock "churchtown",
+situated on the western side of the Gannel, a small tidal stream which
+is crossed by means of a plank bridge. The village of Crantock is
+ancient and interesting, but the great attraction of the place is the
+church. Less than a dozen years ago the fabric was in a ruinous
+condition until the vicar succeeded in raising sufficient funds with
+which to preserve the building. In his appeal for help, an appeal that
+was well responded to by the visitors to Newquay, the vicar explained
+that "the foundation dates from the sixth century, when the Celtic
+Bishop, Carantoc&mdash;or Cairnech&mdash;whose name the church bears and who was a
+companion of St. Patrick, first founded a religious cell here. The
+church became collegiate before the time of King Edward the Confessor,
+and continued so, with large endowment, until it was utterly despoiled,
+and its community scattered by King Henry VIII."</p>
+
+<p>The circular font bears the date 1473, and many<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> portions of early work,
+including the twelfth century walls and arches, are likewise to be seen
+within the building. The font, which is thought to be late Norman, bears
+a date cut in bold relief on the side:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="center">"ANNO DOMINI MILLESIMO CCCC<sup>o</sup> Lxxiij (1473)."</p>
+
+<p>There were once small columns supporting the heads still to be seen at
+each angle, but these have disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Arthur Salmon tells us that tradition speaks of Crantock as having
+been once part of a large town or district named Langarrow, or sometimes
+Languna, most of which now lies beneath the sand-towans. "This town is
+said to have had many fine churches and buildings, vying with the best
+cities in the Britain of that day, which seems to have been the tenth century."</p>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="center"><a name="i081.jpg" id="i081.jpg"></a><img src="images/i081.jpg" width='468' height='700' alt="THE CLIFFS, NEWQUAY" /></div>
+
+<h4>THE CLIFFS, NEWQUAY</h4>
+
+<p class="tbrk">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p>Be this as it may, and there is no doubt a good deal of truth in the
+tradition, we do know that until comparatively recent years the now
+sand-choked estuary of the Gannel had a sufficient depth of water for
+fishing craft and coasting schooners; while old historians assure us
+that the channel could at one time be navigated by ships of large
+tonnage. It is quite possible that the "new quay" of the now fashionable
+watering-place owes its existence to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> silting-up of the estuary that
+gave access to the old quay at Crantock. In Carew's <i>Survey of Cornwall</i>
+reference is made to "newe Kaye, a place in the north coast of this
+Hundred (Pider), so called, because in former times, the neighbours
+attempted, to supplie the defect of nature, by art, in making there a
+Kay, for the Rode of shipping".</p>
+
+<p>An old well in the centre of the village is said to be a "holy" one, but
+this has been disputed by antiquaries.</p>
+
+<p>The weird and uncanny cry of the "Gannel Crake" is heard by everyone who
+woos the charms of a romantic coast after the sun has set beyond the
+western sea. It is said to be the cry of some species of night gull, but
+is traditionally referred to by the superstitious natives as the cry of
+a troubled spirit that ever haunts the scene.</p>
+
+<p>A short distance inland from the porth is St. Columb Minor, the church
+of which, together with that of St. Columb Major some six miles farther
+inland is said to be dedicated to Columba, a maiden saint who is not to
+be confounded with the great Irish saint of the same name. St. Columb
+Minor is the mother parish of Newquay and possesses a fine late
+Decorated church with a remarkably good western tower, said to be the
+second highest tower in the county. The village is quite a large one
+from which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> some fine views of the coast may be obtained. Close at hand
+is Rialton, from which the statesman Sidney Godolphin took his title,
+and where, in the surrounding park and dells, many sketches were made by
+Stansfield, when he visited the district with his friend Charles Dickens.</p>
+
+<p>Rialton Priory is a much desecrated building that once belonged to the
+priory of Bodmin, it having been erected towards the end of the
+fifteenth century by Thomas Vivian, prior of Bodmin. In 1840 someone
+carried off a large amount of the priory's ancient stonework to
+Somerset, where it was placed in private grounds, but the Crown made an
+order for it to be returned and re-erected at Rialton.</p>
+
+<p>St. Columb Major occupies the crown of an eminence, the conjectured site
+of a Danish fortress. The church is large, mainly early Decorated, and
+of much beauty. In the chancel is the pre-Reformation stone altar,
+marked with the five crosses, and supported on slabs of granite. This
+had been buried beneath the floor and was discovered during some
+restorations in 1846. Other noteworthy features are the window of the
+south transept and the grotesque carvings that adorn the font. There are
+also three good brasses commemorating members of the Arundell family.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of this neighbourhood is famous for its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> "hurlers" and
+"wrestlers", a memento of which could be seen at the Red Lion a few
+years ago, for here the landlord used to exhibit with pride the silver
+punchbowl given to his grandfather (Polkinhorne) when that worthy
+escaped defeat in a wrestling bout with Cann, the champion of the
+adjoining county of Devon.</p>
+
+<p>The art of wrestling appears to have died out, but the once popular game
+of hurling is revived once a year, either in the village itself or along
+the sands towards Newquay. The ball used is about the size of a cricket
+ball, and after being coated with silver is inscribed:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<div>"St. Columb Major and Minor,</div>
+<div class="i1">Do your best;</div>
+<div>In one of your parishes</div>
+<div class="i1">I must rest."</div>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>At one time the game was very common throughout Cornwall, and many
+interesting records relating to it are in existence; but at the present
+day only the two parishes of St. Columb keep up a survival of this ancient game.</p>
+
+<p>The whole of the St. Columb district is rich in large tracts of wild and
+picturesque country, which include such heights as Denzell Downs, St.
+Issey Beacon, and St. Breock Downs, near which last stand the "Naw
+Mean", or, in modern English, the Nine Maidens. At the present time
+there are but<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> eight of these upright stones, which tradition asserts
+were originally maidens who were turned into stone for dancing on Sunday
+to the strains of a fiddler, who shared the same fate, as witness a tall
+pillar of rock near by called the "Fiddler".</p>
+
+<p>On the drive from Newquay to Bedruthan Steps no one should fail to make
+a halt at Mawgan, or, to be strictly accurate, St. Mawgan in Pydar,
+either on the outward or the return journey. The village is a pretty one
+that lies in the centre of the beautiful Vale of Mawgan, or Lanherne,
+which stretches from St. Columb to the porth, or cove on the coast.
+Mawgan possesses an ancient parish church and a Roman Catholic convent
+and chapel. The church is a very fine Perpendicular building with a
+tower 70 feet in height. The building was restored by Butterfield, but
+contains some interesting old screenwork and a number of well-carved
+bench ends. The brasses include that of a priest, <i>circa</i> 1420; Cecily
+Arundell, 1578; a civilian, <i>circa</i> 1580; and Jane, daughter of Sir John
+Arundell, <i>circa</i> 1580. This last is a palimpsest, made up of portions
+of two Flemish brasses, <i>circa</i> 1375. The churchyard contains a
+beautifully sculptured fourteenth-century lantern cross, of medi&aelig;val
+date, in the form of an octagonal shaft. Under four niches at the summit
+are sculptured representations of: God the Father with the Dove bearing
+a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> crucifix; an Abbot; an Abbess; and a King and Queen. The height of
+the cross is 5 feet 2 inches, the breadth of the head being 1 foot 1 inch.</p>
+
+<p>The convent, the "lone manse" of Lanherne, was originally the manor
+house of the Arundells, which was, in the last years of the eighteenth
+century, presented by a Lord Arundell of Wardour to a sisterhood of
+Carmelite nuns who had fled from Antwerp in 1794. One or two of the
+pictures in the convent chapel are attributed to Rubens. Strangers may
+attend service in the chapel, but the nuns, like those of the order of
+St. Bridget at Syon Abbey, Chudleigh, are recluses of the strictest kind.</p>
+
+<p>While at Mawgan a stroll should be taken through the groves of
+Carnanton, the old-time abode of William Noye, the "crabbed"
+Attorney-General to Charles I, whose heart, we are told by his
+biographers, was found at his death to have become shrivelled up into
+the form of a leather purse.</p>
+
+<p>A mile beyond Mawgan Porth are the far-famed Bedruthan Steps seven miles
+from Newquay. Here the visitor will find a fine stretch of cliff
+scenery, with a succession of sandy beaches strewn with confused and
+broken masses of rock, and some large caverns that are well worth
+exploring should the state of the tide permit. The largest of these
+caverns is of vast extent and is said to be unrivalled in this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> respect
+along the whole of the Cornish seaboard. At low tide the great spurs of
+rock embedded in the sand have a fantastic beauty, while one of the
+largest of them bears a more than fancied resemblance to Queen
+Elizabeth, and is named after her. Another is known as the Good
+Samaritan, as against these jagged points an East Indiaman of this name
+once came to grief, when the local women folk are said to have
+replenished their wardrobes with a quantity of fine silks and satins.</p>
+
+<p>The coast beyond Bedruthan, by Trevose and Pentire Heads, Padstow,
+Tintagel, Boscastle, Bude, and Morwenstowe, although abounding in wild
+and rugged scenery, and full of romantic and literary associations, is
+beyond our present limits. This being so we may conclude with the words
+of J. D. Blight, one of the most learned of the older school of Cornish antiquaries:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"Those who wish to behold nature in her grandest aspect, those who
+love the sea breezes, and the flowers which grow by the cliffs, the
+cairns and monumental rocks, all hoary and bearded with moss, those
+who are fond of the legends and traditions of old, and desire to
+tread on ground sacred to the peculiar rites and warlike deeds of
+remote ages, should visit the land of Old Cornwall."</p></blockquote>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cornish Riviera, by Sidney Heath
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+</pre>
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cornish Riviera, by Sidney Heath
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Cornish Riviera
+
+Author: Sidney Heath
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: April 25, 2009 [EBook #28609]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CORNISH RIVIERA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+
+Described by SIDNEY HEATH
+
+Pictured by E. W. HASLEHUST
+
+[Illustration]
+
+BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED
+
+LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO FOWEY HARBOUR]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND
+
+_VOLUMES READY_
+
+
+BATH AND WELLS
+BOURNEMOUTH AND CHRISTCHURCH
+CAMBRIDGE
+CANTERBURY
+CHESTER AND THE DEE
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+DARTMOOR
+DICKENS-LAND
+THE DUKERIES
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+EXETER
+FOLKESTONE AND DOVER
+HAMPTON COURT
+HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+HEREFORD AND THE WYE
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT
+THE NEW FOREST
+NORWICH AND THE BROADS
+OXFORD
+THE PEAK DISTRICT
+RIPON AND HARROGATE
+SCARBOROUGH
+SHAKESPEARE-LAND
+SWANAGE AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+THE THAMES
+WARWICK AND LEAMINGTON
+THE HEART OF WESSEX
+WINCHESTER
+WINDSOR CASTLE
+YORK
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL IRELAND
+
+LEINSTER
+ULSTER
+MUNSTER
+CONNAUGHT
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL SWITZERLAND
+
+LUCERNE
+VILLARS AND CHAMPERY
+CHAMONIX
+LAUSANNE AND ITS ENVIRONS
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                                         Page
+Entrance to Fowey Harbour      _Frontispiece_
+
+Truro Cathedral from the River              8
+
+Polruan                                    14
+
+The Harbour, Fowey                         20
+
+View of Falmouth Harbour                   26
+
+St. Michael's Mount                        32
+
+On the Lerryn River                        38
+
+Penzance from Newlyn Harbour               42
+
+In the Harbour, Newlyn                     46
+
+Land's End                                 50
+
+In St. Ives Harbour                        54
+
+The Cliffs, Newquay                        58
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+THE CORNISH RIVIERA
+
+
+
+
+PLYMOUTH TO LAND'S END
+
+     "By Tre, Pol, and Pen,
+     You may know the Cornishmen."
+
+
+The majority of our English counties possess some special feature, some
+particular attraction which acts as a lodestone for tourists, in the
+form of a stately cathedral, striking physical beauty, or a wealth of
+historical or literary associations. There are large districts of rural
+England that would have remained practically unknown to the multitude
+had it not been for their possession of some superb architectural
+creation, or for the fame bestowed upon the district by the makers of
+literature and art. The Bard of Avon was perhaps the unconscious pioneer
+in the way of providing his native town and county with a valuable asset
+of this kind. The novels of Scott drew thousands of his readers to the
+North Country, and those of R. D. Blackmore did the same for the scenes
+so graphically depicted in _Lorna Doone_; while Thomas Hardy is probably
+responsible for half the number of tourists who visit Dorset.
+
+Cornwall, on the contrary, is unique, in that, despite its wealth of
+Celtic saints, crosses, and holy wells, it does not possess any
+overwhelming attractions in the way of physical beauty (the coast line
+excepted), literary associations, beautiful and fashionable spas, or
+mediaeval cathedrals.
+
+History, legends, folklore, and traditions it has in abundance, while
+probably no portion of south-west England is so rich in memorials of the
+Celtic era. At the same time one can quite understand how it was that,
+until comparatively recent years, the Duchy land was visited by few
+tourists, as we count them to-day; and why the natives should think and
+speak of England as a distant, and indeed a foreign, country. Certain is
+it that less than a quarter of a century ago those who crossed the Tamar
+and journeyed westward into the sparsely populated Cornish towns and
+villages, were hailed as "visitors from England".
+
+Bounded on the north and south by the sea, cut off on the east by the
+Tamar, the delectable Duchy was a singularly isolated strip of land
+until the magic connecting link was forged by Brunel. Indeed it is not
+too much to say that Cornwall owes its present favourable position as a
+health resort almost entirely to the genius of Brunel and the enterprise
+of the Great Western Railway.
+
+The lateness of the railway development of Cornwall is somewhat
+remarkable when we remember that the county contained, in the
+picturesque Bodmin and Wadebridge Railway, the third line opened for
+passenger traffic in the kingdom. A quarter of a century later Plymouth
+was connected with the outer world, but for long after the historic
+ports and towns of the southern seaboard had been gradually linked up,
+the splendid isolation of the northern coast remained until
+comparatively recent years. It is but a short time ago that the only way
+of reaching Newquay was by means of a single mineral line that ran from
+Par Junction. Contrast this with the present day, when there is a choice
+of no less than five trains by which passengers can travel from
+Paddington to Newquay, to say nothing of the morning coach which meets
+the South Western train from Waterloo at Wadebridge. The famous Cornish
+Riviera expresses, that do the journey from Paddington to Penzance in a
+few hours, have become a familiar feature to those who live in the
+western counties, and few seaside resorts, situated three hundred miles
+from London, are so favoured by railway enterprise as the beauty spots
+of Cornwall.
+
+This is essentially a county that is best toured by railway. The places
+and towns most worth visiting lie far apart, and are divided by a good
+deal of pleasant but not very interesting country, and one can obtain a
+more than sufficient amount of walking along the vast stretch of
+seaboard.
+
+The line from Plymouth to Truro crosses the fine estuary of the Tamar
+upon the Albert Bridge, one of Brunel's triumphs, and runs along the
+northern bank of the river Lynher. Almost at the head of the river is
+St. Germans, where, for those who can spare the time, a stay of a few
+hours may be profitably made. According to tradition it derives its name
+from St. Germanus, Bishop of Auxerre, who visited Britain in 429, and
+again in 447. From 850 to 1049 the town was the seat of the bishopric of
+Cornwall, which was afterwards incorporated in the see of Devon. The
+church is a good one with an ancient porch highly enriched with carvings
+and traceries. The greater part of the present building dates from 1261,
+and it occupies the site of the ancient Cornish cathedral.
+
+[Illustration: TRURO CATHEDRAL FROM THE RIVER]
+
+The fine ancestral home of Port Eliot, the residence of Lord St.
+Germans, was formerly called Porth Prior, from an Anglo-Saxon religious
+house granted to Richard Eliot in 1565, but of this original building no
+trace whatever remains above the ground. Within the house are some good
+portraits of the Eliots, including a large number by Sir Joshua
+Reynolds.
+
+From St. Germans our journey lies through pleasant vales and wooded
+hills to Liskeard, a quiet little market town situated partly on the
+slope of a steep hill, and partly in a valley traversed by the Looe and
+Liskeard Canal. The district abounds in mysterious piles of rock such as
+the Trethevy Stone, and the Hurlers; while the student of folklore will
+not fail to be attracted by the sacred wells of St. Keyne and St. Cleer.
+The latter was used formerly as a Bowssening Pool, and held in great
+repute for its efficacy in restoring the insane to "mens sana in corpore
+sano". Not far away is the interesting church of St. Neots', with a
+quantity of very fine mediaeval glass.
+
+The site of the old castle of Liskeard is preserved to some extent in a
+tree-planted public walk, while in the ancient Grammar School, "Peter
+Pindar" (Dr. Wolcot) and the learned Dean Prideaux received their
+education. St. Martin's Church has a set of curious gargoyles, while
+portions of a nunnery, dedicated to St. Clare, are said to have been
+built into the walls of one of the houses. In 1644, during the Civil
+War, Charles I was here, and again in the following year.
+
+From Liskeard, Looe may be reached either by rail, road, or canal. The
+road passes St. Keyne, where the waters of the well are said to possess
+a remarkable property, according to Thomas Fuller, who says, "whether
+husband or wife came first to drink thereof, they get the mastery
+thereby". The well has been immortalized in Southey's well-known ballad,
+_The Well of St. Keyne_.
+
+
+     "A well there is in the west countrie,
+       And a clearer one never was seen,
+     There is not a wife in the west countrie
+       But has heard of the well of St. Keyne."
+
+
+The ballad goes on to relate that a traveller, sitting beside the well,
+met a countryman, with whom he had a long chat about its tradition:
+
+
+     "'You drank of the water, I warrant, betimes,'
+       He to the countryman said;
+     But the countryman smiled as the stranger spoke,
+       And sheepishly shook his head.
+
+     "'I hastened as soon as the wedding was o'er,
+       And left my good wife in the porch;
+     But faith! she had been quicker than I,
+       For she took a bottle to church!'"
+
+
+St. Keyne or St. Keyna, the tutelary saint of this well, is said to have
+been a pious virgin, the daughter of Braganus, Prince of Brecknockshire,
+who lived about the year 490. She is also said to have made a pilgrimage
+to St. Michael's Mount, and to have founded a religious establishment
+there.
+
+Two miles in a southerly direction is Duloe, where some upright stones
+have been conjectured to be portions of a druidical circle some
+twenty-eight feet in diameter. A little to the west of the twin villages
+of East and West Looe is Trelawne, an ancient seat of the Trelawny
+family; but the house is not shown to visitors, although a request to
+view the fine collection of pictures, which includes a portrait by
+Kneller, is generally granted. Kneller's portrait is of the famous
+bishop, Sir Jonathan Trelawny, whose counterfeit presentment recalls the
+stirring times when every Cornish village echoed with the defiant
+strain:
+
+
+     "And shall Trelawny die? and shall Trelawny die?
+     There's thirty thousand underground shall know the reason why.
+     And shall they scorn Tre, Pol, and Pen? and shall Trelawny die?
+     There's thirty thousand Cornish boys will know the reason why.
+     Trelawny he's in keep, and hold; Trelawny he may die,
+     But thirty thousand Cornish men will know the reason why?"
+
+
+The villages of East and West Looe are among the most picturesque on the
+southern seaboard. The estuary on the sides of which they are situated,
+is confined between lofty hills whose slopes are covered with allotment
+gardens and orchards. The bridge that crosses the creek a quarter of a
+mile from the haven mouth, was erected in 1855, when it displaced a
+remarkable old bridge of fifteen arches. In the days of the third Edward
+the combined Looes furnished twenty ships and a contingent of 315 men
+for the siege of Calais.
+
+Some delightful boating excursions may be made from Looe, the one most
+in favour being that to Watergate up the West Looe river, which unites
+with the main stream half a mile above the town. The stream winds among
+lofty hills, covered with rich and abundant verdure.
+
+The ancient Guildhall of West Looe, said to have been built originally
+as a monastic chapel, is a picturesque old building, the framework of
+which is composed of ships' beams. The cage for scolds has disappeared,
+but the stocks, of a very barbarous kind, have been placed across an
+open gable. The building was re-consecrated in 1852, since when services
+have been regularly held within it.
+
+The eleven miles that separate Fowey from Looe should be traversed on
+foot by way of Talland, Polperro, and Polruan. Talland Church is
+delightfully placed, while its tower is connected with the main building
+by means of a porch. The bench ends within are very interesting,
+particularly a set with finials in the form of winged figures
+administering the Eucharist. These pew ends are quite unlike any others
+in the country, and they are somewhat of an ecclesiastical puzzle. From
+Talland a rocky coast walk of less than two miles leads to Polperro,
+with the narrowest of all the narrow little ravines that offer shelter
+to the mariner on this exposed portion of the coast. The antiquary
+Leland describes it as "a little fischar towne with a peere". It is an
+extraordinary jumble of habitations which press upon each other so
+closely that it is only by wriggling through the narrow streets and
+turnings that one can make any progress at all.
+
+There is no coast track west of Polperro and both the roads to Fowey are
+very hilly. The pedestrian should proceed by way of Lansallos, where the
+church in the Perpendicular style forms a conspicuous sea-mark. From
+Polruan the descent to Fowey is very steep, but the view of the harbour
+from the high land is one of great charm.
+
+As we look at the little stranded and sunlit port to-day, it is
+difficult to realize that Fowey once shared with Plymouth and Dartmouth
+the maritime honours of the south-west coast. In those days Looe,
+Penryn, and Truro were regarded as creeks under Fowey. The harbour,
+which is navigable as far as Lostwithiel, a distance of eight miles, is
+formed mainly by the estuary of the river Fowey, the town stretching
+along the western bank of the harbour for a mile.
+
+Seen for the first time Fowey is a revelation. Much known and rather too
+much visited, it is yet one of Cornwall's most picturesque and
+interesting towns. Nature and art have combined to make it so; the art
+of the old village builder, not the so-called art of to-day. A modern
+element exists, but it is of small proportions. May it always remain so.
+
+Standing on the heights one looks down upon the river below. On either
+side is a jumble of ancient houses with leaning and weather-stained
+walls. It is doubtful if we ought to admire such ill-ventilated and
+out-of-date dwelling houses, in this essentially scientific age. But the
+general effect of line, of light and shade produced by a mass of broken
+and highly unconventional contours--gables where there should be
+chimneys, and chimneys where one is accustomed to look for doorposts--is
+highly satisfactory and pleasing from the artist's point of view.
+
+Steep hills and zigzag roads, at every alarming angle of declivity,
+intercept the labyrinth of houses, which stand on each other's heads, or
+peep over each other's shoulders, and settle down on the ledges of the
+river bank.
+
+[Illustration: POLRUAN]
+
+As the principal Cornish seaport, the town sent Edward III no less than
+forty-seven ships and 770 mariners for the Calais expedition--a quota
+exceeded only by the eastern port of Yarmouth. Leland tells us that the
+place rose rapidly into importance "partely by feates of warre, partely
+by pyracie; and so waxing riche felle all to marchaundize, so that the
+towne was hauntid with shippes of diverse nations, and their shippes
+went to all nations". When the Cinque Ports of Rye and Winchelsea
+threatened to oust Fowey from its position as the premier Channel port,
+the Cornishmen defeated the mariners of Kent in a desperate sea fight,
+when they quartered the arms of the Cinque Ports on their own scutcheon,
+and assumed the title of "Fowey Gallaunts". They then made war on their
+own account against the French, and became little better than pirates
+ready to attack the ships of their own and every country, in port or on
+the high seas. They became such a thorn in the side of the king, Edward
+IV, by reason of their continuing to capture French ships after peace
+had been concluded, that the angry monarch caused them to be enticed to
+Lostwithiel, where their ringleaders were taken and hanged. From this
+period Fowey's maritime position began to decline. The inhabitants were
+compelled to pay a heavy fine, and the whole of their shipping was
+handed over to the port of Dartmouth.
+
+Carew tells us that sixty ships belonged to Fowey at that period. The
+twin forts of Fowey were erected in the reign of Edward IV to protect
+the roadstead from the ravages of the French. Standing something like
+those below Dartmouth, on each side of the water, a thick boom or chain
+stretched across the mouth of the river would be sufficient protection
+against vessels propelled by sails. The last gallant action performed
+by these forts was in 1666, when they were assisted by the then almost
+new fort of St. Catherine. A Dutch fleet of eighty sail of the line was
+off the town in the hope of capturing an English fleet bound for
+Virginia, which had put into Fowey for shelter. A Dutch frigate of 74
+guns attempted to force the entrance, but after being under the
+crossfire of the forts for two hours, was forced to tack about and
+regain the open sea.
+
+Sir A. T. Quiller-Couch writes thus of Fowey in _Troy Town_. "The
+visitor," says he, "if he be of my mind, will find a charm in Fowey over
+and above its natural beauty, and what I may call its holiday
+conveniences, for the yachtsman, for the sea-fisherman, or for one
+content to idle in peaceful waters. It has a history, and carries the
+marks of it. It has also a flourishing trade and a life of its own."
+
+The church of St. Fimbarrus, almost hidden from view except from the
+harbour side, is mainly of fifteenth-century date, although portions may
+well be a century earlier. The roof of the tall tower is richly
+decorated, and the north aisle is undoubtedly the remnant of a much
+earlier edifice. There are two good brasses and some interesting
+monuments, also a memorial to Sir John Treffry, who captured the French
+standard at the battle of Poictiers.
+
+The most important piece of domestic architecture in the neighbourhood
+is Place House, the seat of the Treffry family. This is a fine Tudor
+mansion, that is said to occupy the site of a royal palace, reputed to
+have been the residence of the Earls of Cornwall. Leland records that on
+one occasion, when the French attempted to take the town, "the wife of
+Thomas Treffry with her servants, repelled their enemies out of the
+house, in her husband's absence; whereupon he builded a right faire and
+strong embattled tower in his house, and embattled it to the walls of
+his house". The ancient church also is worth a visit, and among its many
+memorials is an elaborate monument to one of the Rashleigh family,
+another of the old Cornish families, whose history seems to be as
+ancient as the legends of the county. The inscription on the tomb
+reads:--
+
+
+     "JOHN RAISHELEIGHE LYVED YEARES THREESCORE THREE
+     AND THEN DID YEILDE TO DYE,
+     HE DID BEQVEATHE HIS SOVLE TO GOD
+     HIS CORPS HEREIN TO LYE.
+
+     "THE DEVONSHEIRE HOWSE Y^t RAISHELEIGHE HEIGHT
+     WELL SHEWETH FROM WHENCE HE CAME;
+     HIS VIRTVOVS LIEF IN FOYE TOWNN
+     DESERVETH ENDLESS FAME.
+
+     "LANION HE DID TAKE TO WIFE, BY HER HAD CHILDREN STORE,
+     YET AT HIS DEATHE BOT DAVGHTERS SIXE, ONE SONNE HE HAD NOE MORE.
+     ALL THEM TO PORTRAHE VNDER HERE, BECAVSE FITTE SPACE WAS NONE,
+     THE SONNE, WHOSE ONLI ECHARGE THIS WAS, IS THEREFORE SETT ALONE."
+
+
+For the yachting man Fowey is very attractive, although during the
+season the small harbour is rather too crowded with craft. The entrance
+presents difficulties to the unexperienced amateur, but once inside the
+headlands there is usually no difficulty in securing a safe and
+convenient berth.
+
+The favourite anchorage is off Polruan, but there is deep water for a
+considerable distance beyond that straggling village.
+
+The river excursions from Fowey are full of charm, but so much depends
+on the state of the tide. The short trip by boat to Golant, a distance
+of two miles, should not be missed. The village occupies a cleft on the
+hillside, where the gardens and orchards reach down to the water's edge.
+Luxulyan, with its deep sylvan valley and large perched blocks of stone,
+is another favourite spot for excursions.
+
+At the head of the river stands Lostwithiel, with a church whose tower
+the late Mr. G. Street, R.A., was wont to designate "the pre-eminent
+glory of Cornwall". Near the church are the ruins of Restormel Castle,
+while the Fowey and the little river Lerryn are good fishing streams
+where plenty of salmon and trout fishing may be enjoyed.
+
+For the pedestrian there is a large choice of walks within a moderate
+distance, to Par Harbour, St. Blazey, and St. Austell, the last with a
+fine church, on the walls of which is a well sculptured representation
+of the Veronica. The shore rambles are equally numerous and attractive.
+
+Cornwall may be said to possess three capitals. Launceston the historic
+capital, Bodmin the town of Assize, and Truro the ecclesiastical and
+commercial centre. To reach the last named for the purposes of our
+present journey, the visitor cannot do better than take train at Par
+Junction. Truro itself cannot be said to possess much in the way of
+civic beauty or historical interest, although it is an excellent centre
+for touring purposes. Moreover it has, pending the completion of the
+fine structure in the course of erection on the banks of the Mersey, the
+honour of possessing the only Protestant Cathedral erected in this
+country since the Reformation. The name "Truro" is thought to be derived
+either from _Tru-ru_, the three streets, or _Tre-rhiw_, the village on
+the slope (of the river). There is a general impression that Truro is on
+the river Fal, but the truth is that the triangular piece of land on
+which the city stands, is washed on the east by the river Allen, and on
+the west by the Kenwyn. Between these two streams lies modern Truro,
+with its stately cathedral rising high above the houses that surround
+it. Truro's most eminent son, Samuel Foote, was born in 1720 at the town
+house of his father's family, the Footes of Lambesso. The house, now the
+Red Lion Hotel in Boscawen Street, has retained a good many of its
+original features, including a very fine oak staircase. Foote is
+generally considered to be the greatest of the dramatic authors of his
+class, while in power of mimicry and broad humour he had few equals. In
+late life he lost his leg through an accident in riding, a circumstance
+that led to his producing a play, _The Lame Lover_, in which his loss of
+a limb might be made a positive advantage. In all, his plays and
+dramatic pieces number about twenty, and he boasted at the close of his
+life that he had enriched the English stage with sixteen quite new
+characters.
+
+Truro was also the birthplace of the brothers Richard and John Lander,
+the explorers; Bode, a painter of some merit; and Richard Polwhele, the
+historian of Devon and Cornwall.
+
+[Illustration: THE HARBOUR, FOWEY]
+
+The cathedral is not entirely a modern building, for it has incorporated
+with it the south aisle of the old parish church of St. Mary, with its
+long associations with the municipality. The narrow lanes and streets
+surrounding the stately pile of buildings differ essentially from the
+gardens and canonical residences that are the pride of so many of our
+mediaeval cathedrals; but they make a fitting environment for the mother
+church of a working ecclesiastical centre.
+
+Of several interesting houses in the neighbourhood the most important is
+Tregothnan, the residence of Lord Falmouth. The mansion is beautifully
+placed upon high ground, the views from which include the numerous
+wooded creeks of the lovely Fal, and the wide expanse of Falmouth
+Harbour, studded with the shipping of many nations. The house was
+designed by Wilkins, the architect of the National Gallery, and is in
+the Early English and Tudor styles.
+
+The gatehouse of Tregothnan is situated at Tresilian Bridge, the spot
+where the struggle between Charles I and Cromwell was brought to a close
+in Cornwall, by the surrender of the Royalists to General Fairfax.
+
+The ecclesiologist will find many interesting old churches in this
+neighbourhood, of which perhaps that at Probus is the most important, as
+it is the least known. The tower is over one hundred feet in height,
+being the highest in the county, and is exceptionally rich in delicate
+carvings and clustered pinnacles. The present building is mainly
+Perpendicular, but the foundation of a church here is attributed by
+tradition to Athelstan, who is said to have established a college of
+secular canons dedicated to St. Probus. The chancel screen is modern
+with the exception of the lower portion, which has been made up of the
+old fifteenth-century bench ends. A full and highly interesting account
+of this church, by Canon Fox Harvey, appeared in the _Truro Diocesan
+Magazine_ for 1905. Above the woods of Tregothnan, on the left bank of
+the Truro, stands the fourteenth-century church of St. Michael Penkivel,
+with numerous brasses to the memory of the Boscawens; while on the right
+bank of the Fal is Trelissic, a classical building whose portico is an
+exact reproduction of the temple of Erectheus at Athens.
+
+All visitors to Truro make their way to the historic port of Falmouth by
+water, when they travel along a length of river scenery that possesses
+no equal in beauty with the exception perhaps of a somewhat similar
+reach of the romantic Dart, in the adjoining county of Devon. Any
+mention of the Dart, however, as a possible rival to the Fal, is much
+resented by Cornishmen, and one that had better be left unsaid within
+the boundaries of the delectable Duchy.
+
+The old port of Falmouth is situated in a sheltered bay with the
+glittering sea beyond. Landward lie the villages of Mabe and
+Constantine, with their great granite quarries, and beyond them wide
+expanses of undulating and treeless land that is not devoid of beauty.
+Here the climate is so mild that hydrangeas become large bushes, and the
+eucalyptus attains the proportions of a forest tree. The port rose
+perhaps to its greatest height of prosperity in the days of the fourth
+George, when the famous Falmouth packets--ten-gun brigs officered by
+naval men--carried the mails to various Mediterranean ports, and to the
+North American and West Indian stations. A well preserved relic of these
+good old days may be seen at Swanpool, where, in a cottage built by
+Commander Bull, may be observed a chiselled relief of the old
+"Marlborough" packet at the top angle of the facade. As a port Falmouth
+has not kept pace with the steady growth in the size of steamships,
+although the opening of the railway to Truro set Falmouth cogitating
+great schemes in the way of spacious docks and large hotels. Some of us
+do not regret that the town's maritime ambitions have been but partially
+realized. We have many busy and flourishing seaports, but there is only
+one Falmouth, with its quaint little alleys leading to the waterside,
+inconvenient and hopelessly behind the times, yet picturesque beyond
+description and redolent of the spirit of the past. One of the most
+pleasing views of Falmouth is that obtained from the little township of
+Flushing across the harbour, once a quite fashionable suburb, but now a
+rather poor little fishing village.
+
+The excursions from Falmouth, and the places of interest that lie within
+easy reach are too numerous to mention, for their very names are an
+attraction to the inquisitive topographer. Mylor lies over the hills of
+Flushing on the beautiful waters of the Fal; St. Mawes and the fishing
+town of Gerrans are equally near; while the most hardened tourist could
+not fail to wish to visit a village endowed with the charming name of
+St. Just in Roseland.
+
+A reference should be made to the fine promontory of Pendennis, almost
+surrounded by the sea, on the summit of which stands the historic castle
+that has played no small part in our island story.
+
+There are two road routes from Falmouth to the Lizard--the regular route
+through Helston, and the other, a trifle longer, by way of the woods of
+Trelowarren, the seat of the Cornish Vyvyans. The most enjoyable way,
+however, of viewing this well-known promontory is to sail from Falmouth.
+Those who would woo the charms of the Cornish coast from the water
+should remember that even on the calmest day sailing along this exposed
+seaboard is no child's play, but a serious business. As a matter of fact
+no one who is not intimately acquainted with the coast should take a
+boat out of the harbour without an experienced man on board, and no
+amateurs should attempt unaided, to sail the lugsail boats in general
+use among the fishermen. The best boat for yachting in these waters is a
+ten or fifteen ton cutter or yawl, such as can be hired at Falmouth for
+quite a moderate sum. But the coast is a dangerous one, for although the
+morning run past the dreaded Manacles, Helford river, St. Keverne's, and
+right down to the Lizard, may present no difficulties, the return
+evening journey, with a stiff breeze from the land making a choppy sea,
+and the puzzling lights at the complicated entrance to the anchorage,
+are disturbing elements that make one feel thankful to have the skipper
+on board to guide the little craft through the maze of shipping, and
+pick up her moorings. For small boat sailing the waters of the Fal are
+ideal, but here also, as on the salt waters beyond the river mouth,
+great care is required by reason of the wind cutting down the creeks and
+gullies with practically no warning. What a halo of tragedy lies over
+the dreaded Manacles! and what wonderful escapes some fortunate vessels
+have had. The author once saw a schooner of five hundred tons thread the
+narrow channels of the needle-pointed rocks in safety, but the feat was
+regarded by his companion, an old sailor of Falmouth, as little short of
+a miracle. As a matter of fact captains who get their ships among the
+Manacles are so anxious to keep the news from reaching the owners that
+they hang a sail over the names of their ships.
+
+By a glance at the map it is obvious to anyone that no vessel going up
+or down the Channel need be within a dozen or more miles of the
+Manacles. Yet many still get there; and few are fortunate enough to get
+away without becoming total wrecks. Not only on account of nearness of
+time do the _Mohegan_ and the _Paris_ disasters take undoubted
+precedence in the Manacles' victims, but on one occasion the loss of
+life was appalling. The _Mohegan_ was a steamship of 7000 tons in charge
+of Captain Griffiths, the commodore of the Atlantic Transport Company.
+At half-past two on her second day out she signalled "All well" at
+Prawle Point. Four and a half hours later, when the light was good and
+the wind not high, she dashed into the Vase Rock, one of the outer
+Manacles, and within twenty minutes all except the upper portions of her
+masts and funnels were beneath the water. How the _City of Paris_ got on
+the rocks is equally a mystery, for she is computed to have been twenty
+miles out of her proper course when she struck, and the weather was fine
+and the night clear.
+
+[Illustration: VIEW OF FALMOUTH HARBOUR]
+
+As Mr. Albert Bluett says: "We have the uncontradicted statements of
+seamen of all classes, that the bell-buoy, fixed to one of the outer
+Manacles, is utterly inadequate to warn vessels of their nearness to
+danger. And when the sounds of that bell came in the landward breeze to
+where I stood looking across the reef, they seemed, not a message of
+warning to those who cross the deep, but as the death-knell of the
+hundreds of men, women, and children who have breathed their last in the
+sea around the Manacles."
+
+There is no doubt that generations of smugglers and wreckers existed all
+along this exposed and dangerous coast, and the lawlessness of the
+Cornish folk in such matters as smuggling, and pilfering from wrecks,
+earned for them a very unenviable reputation. The deeds of Jack
+Rattenbury, of Beer, and the daring exploits of Harry Paye, of Poole,
+fade into insignificance by comparison with the doings of John Carter,
+who was known and feared all along the wild Cornish seaboard. He was
+known locally as the "King of Prussia", owing, it is said, to his
+resemblance to Frederick the Great. Be this as it may, Bessy's Cove, a
+small bay a few miles to the west of Helston, has, since Carter's day,
+been known as Prussia Cove, a striking tribute to the power of the
+smuggler. At this cove Carter widened the harbour, fortified the
+promontory that overlooks it, and adopted the numerous caves for the
+storage of illicit cargoes. These splendid and natural storehouses may
+still be seen, together with the "King of Prussia's" house, and the
+remains of the battery he erected; for this intrepid smuggler did not
+hesitate to open fire on any of the king's ships that ventured within
+range of his guns. Carter flourished in the middle of the eighteenth
+century, and it is difficult for us to realize to-day that such a state
+of lawlessness could have existed in the days of our great-grandparents.
+
+The difficulties of patrolling the coast in the days before steamships,
+and the passive assistance he must have received from the people,
+enabled Carter to carry on a very profitable trade, although he
+naturally had many escapes from capture.
+
+Even when arrested in the act of conveying kegs of brandy to his
+customers, he appears to have found no difficulty in proving an _alibi_.
+The reason for this of course is that smuggling was regarded with more
+than toleration by the people and the gentry alike, while even the local
+administrators of justice had an interest in the ventures. The result
+was that it was impossible for the Revenue officers to obtain a
+conviction, for the magistrates regarded the flimsiest _alibi_ as excuse
+sufficient for them to set the "King of Prussia" at liberty.
+
+At length the authorities appear to have realized that the ordinary
+legal methods, as administered by the local magistracy, were quite
+useless. Accordingly a strongly armed Revenue cutter sailed for Prussia
+Cove with orders to storm the stronghold and destroy the battery. As the
+cutter's instructions were not sent through the usual local channels,
+there was no leakage of the commander's intentions, and having received
+no warning of the expedition, the smugglers were taken completely by
+surprise. As soon as the hostile intentions of the cutter were revealed,
+Carter opened a heavy fire on the small boats that conveyed the landing
+party; but after a fierce fight, in which there were heavy casualties on
+both sides, a landing was effected, and the fortress carried by storm.
+The work of dismantling the fort was considered of more importance than
+the immediate capture of the smugglers, and nothing seems to be known as
+to whether they were ever arrested and tried.
+
+For the exploration of the Lizard and Kynance districts there is no
+better centre than Helston, although those who find little to interest
+them in the interior of the peninsula may be advised to proceed direct
+to Lizard Town, as being in closer proximity to such attractive spots as
+Mullion and Cadgwith. Helston itself is an oldfashioned town that has
+not many attractions for the modern tourist. It is a borough of some
+antiquity, and once possessed a Norman castle which fell into ruin in
+the reign of Edward IV. The annual festival known as Helston Flora Day
+is generally considered to be a survival of an old Roman custom. It was
+originally held on the 8th of May, but in recent years has taken place
+on any convenient date. The greatest attraction of the place to-day is
+the Loo or Loe Pool, a large sheet of water two miles in length and five
+in circumference. This is quite one of the largest natural lakes in the
+south of England, and is a favourite resort for anglers. It is separated
+from the sea by a bar of shingle, scarcely three hundred yards wide at
+low tide. On this bar, in 1807, the _Anson_, a 40-gun ship, was wrecked,
+with a loss of sixty lives. One of the small inlets of this lake,
+Penrose Creek, is well known to botanists as the home of the little
+plant _Nitella hyalina_. The weed is found in four feet of water,
+occupying less than twelve square yards, and is not known to exist in
+any other locality in Great Britain.
+
+Mullion Cove is considered by many people to be the most beautiful spot
+along the Cornish Riviera. It certainly has many attractions for the
+artist, and its caves and crags have been photographed, sketched, and
+painted _ad nauseam_.
+
+No one with antiquarian tastes should neglect to visit the church of
+Mullion Church-town, a good Perpendicular building that was restored in
+1870. The many features of interest include portions of the old rood
+screen, and a very fine set of carved bench ends which are justly
+considered to be the richest in carving of any in the west of England.
+
+The view from the high land above the cove is one of great beauty, with
+St. Michael's Mount rising abruptly from the waters of the bay, and
+beyond it the clustered houses of Penzance.
+
+Kynance Cove is an equally charming place that lies one and a half miles
+to the north-west of the Lizard. The bay is studded with a quantity of
+scattered rocks, which rejoice in such curious names as Devil's Bellows,
+Devil's Throat, the Letter Box, &c. At Landewednack in the parish of
+Lizard Point, the last sermon in the ancient Cornish language is said to
+have been preached in 1678. The church is one of the most beautifully
+situated along these wild southern shores.
+
+The first view of Penzance from Marazion (known locally as Market Jew)
+is one that is never forgotten. Right before us, rises the famous St.
+Michael's Mount, capped with its architectural adornment; to the right
+the bay swings round in a semicircle to Penzance, beyond which is the
+harbour of Newlyn, the village that has played so great a part in the
+history of our modern school of painting.
+
+Certainly nowhere else in England is found the like of St. Michael's
+Mount, with its curious mingling of a mediaeval fortress and modern
+residence; of antiquarian treasures and up-to-date conveniences. At the
+foot of the rock is a tiny harbour and a cluster of cottages, and here
+also is a kind of station for the railway, which carries coal,
+provisions, and luggage up to the top of the Mount. When the tide is out
+the Mount can be reached along a causeway, but the road is very rough
+for walking, as one would expect from its peculiar position on the bed
+of the sea.
+
+The Mount is really a pyramidical mass of granite, a mile in
+circumference, capped by a cluster of castellated buildings. The steep
+ascent up the side of the rock is commanded by a cross-wall pierced with
+embrasures, and a platform mounting two small batteries. The house
+itself has a few interesting points and an excellent chapel with some
+good details of the Decorated and Perpendicular periods. From the summit
+of the rock a superb panorama of the Cornish coast and the
+wide-spreading Channel may be obtained. The mythical legends and
+traditions that have grown up around this solitary rock bear much
+resemblance to those that are told about its French counterpart, the
+Mont St. Michel of Normandy. The romantic legends of both concern great
+heroes and super-terrestrial beings doing battle with evil dragons and
+fiendish monsters.
+
+[Illustration: ST. MICHAEL'S MOUNT]
+
+The Mount is certainly a very attractive spot, and, by the kindness of
+the owner, access to the castle is generally allowed. The building has
+been much modernized during recent years, but many of its original
+features remain. Some alterations at the chapel led to the discovery of
+a blocked-up Gothic doorway, which, being opened, revealed a flight of
+stone steps terminating in a dark vault, wherein lay the skeleton of a
+man. The old refectory of the monks is the most distinctive feature of
+the present house. The Mount is a parish without a public-house, the
+only one which ever existed there having been closed a few years ago.
+
+In an old volume on Cornwall, published in 1824, we learn that "Turbot
+are caught in great plenty during the Summer Season. In Mount's Bay
+there have been instances of 30 being taken in an evening with the hook
+and line. When plentiful, they are sold from 4_d._ to 6_d._ per pound."
+Leland writes: "Penzantes about a mile from Mousehold, standing fast in
+the shore of Mount Bay, is the Westest Market Town of all Cornwall,
+Socur for botes or shypes, but a forced pere or Key. Theyr is but a
+Chapel yn the sayd towne, as ys in Newlyn, for theyr paroche Chyrches be
+more than a mile off."
+
+The neighbourhood of Penzance is rendered very attractive by the variety
+of its scenery, and the glorious bay offers unlimited opportunities for
+boating and fishing. The mother church of Penzance is that of Madron a
+short distance away. The building stands 350 feet above the sea and
+contains some old memorials, including a tombstone to the memory of
+George Daniell, a local benefactor. His epitaph reads:
+
+
+     "Belgia me birth, Britaine me breeding gave,
+     Cornwall a wife, ten children, and a grave."
+
+
+Madron Well is a chalybeate spring once in much esteem for its curative
+properties, and its prophetical powers in respect to love and marriage.
+The holy well here, situated on the moor about a mile to the north-west
+of the church, was partially destroyed during the Parliamentary wars, by
+Major Ceely of St. Ives.
+
+One of the most delightful excursions from Penzance is that to Mousehole
+and Lamorna Cove, and one for which the whole of a day should be
+allotted.
+
+While in the neighbourhood of Penzance the visitor who is fortunate
+enough to be a good sailor should not fail to make the trip to the
+Scilly Isles, although the passage is generally a trying one. The
+islands consist mainly of low rocks, covered with gorse and heather
+where their slopes are not given over to flower growing, that great
+industry of these solitary isles. The coastward sides of the downs
+terminate in granitic rocks which are a terror to navigators. Even
+under the guard of three lighthouses and a lightship, thousands of lives
+have been lost on the Scillies, and there is a prodigious litter of
+wreckage wedged in among the granite boulders. Probably the worst
+disasters were the wreck of Sir Cloudesley Shovell's fleet in 1707, and
+that of the _Schiller_ in 1875. Of the hundreds of lesser calamities
+there is no record. St. Agnes is perhaps the worst offender, and the
+lighthouse keeper there is a gloomy man. It has been fittingly said that
+his landscape of rocks must be about as enlivening to him as a square
+mile or so of tombstones.
+
+Penzance itself is a town of many attractions of the civilized order,
+and the whole of the neighbourhood is lovely. It is the most westerly
+town in England, and one that has a good deal of ancient history. The
+older part of the town, lying between Market Jew Street and the harbour,
+has retained a good deal of its ancient domestic architecture, but the
+churches have no features of any particular interest.
+
+The fishing village of Newlyn is a picturesque but ill-built group of
+old cottages, fish-cellars, bungalows, and artists' studios. As an art
+centre it has played, and is still playing, a very considerable part,
+while many of the native models of the place look out from gilded frames
+in half the picture galleries of Europe. It must unquestionably be the
+most painted spot in the British Isles, and it would be difficult to
+find a single nook or corner that has not been depicted on paper or
+canvas. One of the curious little streets bears the exotic name of "Rue
+des Beaux Arts", a reminder of the fact that it was in a dwelling of
+this street that Frank Bramley painted his dramatic picture "_A Hopeless
+Dawn_", now in the Tate Gallery. There is a considerable artists' colony
+still resident here, although a good many of those who first brought the
+place into fame have migrated to pastures new, and particularly to the
+neighbouring port of St. Ives. At the same time Newlyn is still, and
+always will be, a magic word in art circles, for here such painters as
+Stanhope Forbes, Frank Bramley, J. A. Gotch, Walter Langley, Sydney
+Grier, Chevalier Tayler, to mention but a few, introduced a new if
+somewhat exotic phase into the traditions of British art. Mr. A.
+Stanhope Forbes, A.R.A., writes: "I had come from France, where I had
+been studying, and wandering down into Cornwall, came one spring morning
+along that dusty road by which Newlyn is approached from Penzance.
+Little did I think that the cluster of grey-roofed houses which I saw
+before me against the hillside would be my home for so many years. What
+lodestone of artistic metal the place contains I know not, but its
+effects were strongly felt, in the studios of Paris and Antwerp
+particularly, by a number of young English painters studying there, who
+just about then, by some common impulse, seemed drawn towards this
+corner of their native land.... It was part of our creed to paint our
+pictures directly from nature, and not merely to rely upon sketches and
+studies which we could afterwards amplify in the comfort of a studio."
+
+The road from Penzance to Land's End being rather dull and devoid of
+interest, the best way to reach the outlying promontory is by one of the
+G.W.R. motors that make the regular journey. A stay of a short time is
+usually made at the Logan Rock, perched on the summit of a pile of
+crags. To reach it involves rather a breakneck scramble down and stiff
+climb up, and it is doubtful if the satisfaction of having done the feat
+is equal to the amount of fatigue involved. The stone rocks to a
+considerable degree, but less than it did before it was upset in 1824 by
+Lieutenant Goldsmith, who was commanded to replace it by the Admiralty.
+St. Buryan Church and Cross are both worth inspection. The former has a
+tower ninety feet in height, while the latter has been attributed to the
+Romano-British period. It is a plain little erection of stone standing
+on a base of five steps. On one side is carved in low relief a fully
+clothed figure of the Saviour with hands extended horizontally.
+
+The first aspect of Land's End, with its covering of turf, worn smooth
+by the feet of many trippers, is disappointing; and it is only when we
+begin to wander about the lesser used trackways that it is possible to
+realize that this is no ordinary promontory, but a lonely headland
+broken into a hundred beetling crags, with huge granite boulders piled
+one on another, forming a stalwart bulwark against the onrushing waves
+of the Atlantic. In the crevices of these miniature precipices purple
+heather and golden gorse have set them here and there, while the silver
+lichens have clothed the scarred surfaces of rock with a tender grace.
+The wind-swept downs that cap the lonely headland are also not without a
+certain beauty, from the very nature of the surrounding waste of wild
+grey sea.
+
+As we gaze over the waters from the top of this lonely rock, we think
+instinctively of the lost land of Lyonesse, that antiquaries and
+geologists tell us once stretched from our feet to the Scillies.
+
+[Illustration: ON THE LERRYN RIVER]
+
+That such a denudation actually occurred is of course within the bounds
+of geological possibility, if we take the precaution to date the
+incident far enough back, to remote and prehistoric days. There is
+little credence to be attached to the local traditions, which affirm
+that fishermen on a calm, clear day, have seen the ruins of house and
+castle, cottage and farm, covered with dulse instead of stonecrop; or
+the shattered spires of one or two of the reputed "hundred and twenty
+churches". If such a kingdom ever existed it was long before the
+mediaeval era, and a spired church belongs to the Gothic period.
+
+Sir Richard Carew, the friend and contemporary of Raleigh and of
+Campden, assures us not only that proofs of the lost kingdom remained in
+his day, but that the fishermen's nets frequently brought up portions of
+"doors and windows" from the submerged houses.
+
+At the same time there is probably a certain rough truth in the old
+legends, the details having been added from time to time. As Mr. Arthur
+Salmon says: "When we speak of a lost Lyonesse we are not dealing with
+absurdities. We must only be careful to date it far enough backward, or
+rather to leave it without date. It is an alluring vision on which we
+can linger without the sense of being actually unhistoric."
+
+Certain is it that if we examine _The Life and Death of Prince Arthur_,
+the _History of Merlin_, or the _Mort d'Arthur_, we shall find
+"Cornewaile" and "The Lyonesse" spoken of with an airy indifference as
+to their geographical limits. Thus it may possibly be that, by the title
+of Lyonesse, Leonois, or any other of the various renderings of the
+name, it was intended to cover such portion of the west country as lay
+beyond that part of Devonshire, which, down to so late as the year 410
+of the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, continued to be known as Cornwall.
+
+It is well worth while to stay the night at the little hostel near the
+Land's End for the purpose of viewing this westernmost piece of England
+under the magic spell of a stormy sunset or a misty dawn. The sun sinks
+beyond the vast expanse of open, wide, and illimitable sea, heaving with
+a deep and mysterious ground swell as the long waves roll shorewards.
+Between the great pinnacles of rock blue chasms yawn and pass away, and
+the bases of the nearer rocks are momentarily hidden by the foam of the
+surging waves.
+
+Far out, far beyond where the Longships lighthouse blinks its warning
+light over the waste of waters, a solitary ship goes down into the
+western horizon; and the golden clouds of summer follow her, one by one,
+into the bosom of the night.
+
+The holiday season, with its bands of health-seeking and somewhat noisy
+tourists, is not the best time of the year for a visit to Land's End. As
+a show place it has been compelled to provide certain conveniences for
+the traveller, and these jarring notes of modernity are rather
+aggressive. There is much to be said for Mr. W. H. Hudson's plea for a
+national fund that shall purchase the Land's End; but one fears much
+water will have flowed around the historic headland before a "Society
+for the Preservation of Noble Landscape" becomes an accomplished fact.
+
+About a mile from the cliffs stands the rocky little islet of Carn Bras,
+whereon is situated the Longships lighthouse. Although such a short
+distance away this lighthouse, and that on the Wolf Rock seven miles
+off, are frequently cut off from all communication with the mainland by
+stress of weather. The submerged crags that fringe this portion of the
+coast are many, while the larger of those whose jagged points appear
+above the water, are the Armed Knight, the Irish Lady, and Enys Dodman,
+the last being pierced by a fine natural arch about forty feet in
+height. The Cornish name for the Armed Knight was "An Marogeth Arvowed",
+and it was also called Guela or Guelaz, the "rock easily seen".
+
+To enjoy fully these western cliffs, one should stay in the locality for
+some days; be on the spot at all hours, see the mists of morning and the
+mellow tints of evening when all is calm and peaceful. At such times
+those who love the sea breezes, and the hoary rocks bearded with moss
+and lichen; those who are fond of the legends and traditions of the
+past, will find much to interest them at the Land's End. It is a
+favourite spot with artists, many of whom come year after year to depict
+its frowning cliffs and heaving belt of sea, for, curiously enough, the
+grandest effects of the waves are frequently seen in calm weather, when
+the heavy ground swell causes the waves to break with great force on the
+rocks.
+
+In his criticism on Turner's picture of the Land's End, Ruskin wrote:
+
+
+     "At the Land's End there is to be seen the entire disorder of the
+     surges, when every one of them, divided and entangled among
+     promontories as it rolls, and beaten back post by post from walls
+     of rock on this side and that side, recoils like the defeated
+     division of a great army, throwing all behind it into disorder,
+     breaking up the succeeding waves into vertical ridges, which, in
+     their turn, yet more totally shattered upon the shore, retire in
+     more hopeless confusion, until the whole surface of the sea becomes
+     one dizzy whirl of rushing, writhing, tortured, undirected rage,
+     bounding and crashing, and coiling in an anarchy of enormous power,
+     subdivided into myriads of waves, of which every one is not, be it
+     remembered, a separate surge, but part and portion of a vast one,
+     actuated by eternal power, and giving in every direction the mighty
+     undulation of impetuous line, which glides over the rocks and
+     writhes in the wind, overwhelming the one and piercing the other
+     with the form, fury, and swiftness of lambent fire."
+
+
+[Illustration: PENZANCE FROM NEWLYN HARBOUR]
+
+
+
+
+LAND'S END TO NEWQUAY
+
+
+No visitor to Cornwall can fail to notice the remarkable number of
+wells, situated near stone circles, dolmens, cromlechs, or churches that
+have replaced them in more modern times, for well-worship was
+undoubtedly one of the most persistent of the pagan customs with which
+the early Christian missionaries had to deal. Sir Norman Lockyer
+writes:--"It seems to be accepted now that well-worship in Britain
+originated long before the Christian era; that it was not introduced by
+the Christian missionaries, but rather they found it in vogue on their
+arrival, and tolerated it at first and utilized it afterwards, as they
+did a great many other pagan customs."
+
+It is of course quite easy to understand how a once devout custom
+degenerated into mere superstition, how some wells came to be called
+"wishing wells", &c., in which the modern village maidens drop their
+pins, in much the same way as their pagan ancestors left offerings to
+invoke the aid of the tutelary saint.
+
+The superstitions attached to the wells of Cornwall are as strong
+to-day as ever they were in the past, and there seems little reason to
+doubt that the good condition of wells, cromlechs, and other antiquities
+in the county, is due to the widespread traditions that dreadful harm
+will befall those who disturb or mutilate any ancient remains.
+
+Sennen Cove lying immediately to the north of Land's End is a very
+charming little spot that shows signs of becoming a fashionable
+watering-place. The church, situated a mile inland, is dedicated to St.
+Senan or Senannus, one of those numerous Irish saints who showed such a
+predilection for the land of Cornwall. It is a low, weather-beaten
+structure with a good tower, and standing nearly 400 feet above the
+level of the sea, it forms a conspicuous land- and sea-mark. Within,
+there is a mutilated alabaster figure that is thought to have
+represented the Virgin and Child, and a small piece of mural painting.
+East of the church, a few yards from the roadside, and near the end of a
+small cottage, is the stone known as the Table Men, a block of granite
+nearly eight feet in length, and three feet high. The word "main", or
+"men", is the old Cornish for "stone". Here, according to tradition, a
+great battle took place between King Arthur and some Danish invaders,
+and the stone is also said to have been used as a royal dining table,
+when the number of kings who dined here is given by some old
+topographers as three, while others speak of seven. Hals gives their
+names as follows: "Ethelbert, fifth king of Kent; Cissa, second king of
+the South Saxons; Kingills, sixth king of the West Saxons; Sebert, third
+king of the East Saxons; Ethelfred, seventh king of the Northumbers;
+Penda, ninth king of the Mercians; and Sigebert, fifth king of the East
+Angles; who all flourished about the year 600". Merlin, the Wizard, who
+appears to have prophesied something about every nook in the kingdom,
+foretold that a yet larger number of kings will assemble around this
+rock for a similar purpose on the destruction of the world. A rock near
+Lanyon Cromleh claims a similar honour, and the same story is attached
+to another at Bosavern in the parish of St. Just.
+
+Sennen Cove is situated on the curve of Whitesand Bay, which terminates
+to the northward in the fine bluff headland of Cape Cornwall. It was
+once a favourite spot for smugglers and wreckers, and here Athelstan,
+after his final defeat of the Cornish, started to conquer the Scilly
+Isles. Stephen landed here on his first arrival in England, as did
+Perkin Warbeck when he sought to seize the crown he claimed. King John
+is also said to have landed here on his return from Ireland. Cape
+Cornwall, a mile and a half from the village, is one of the most
+prominent headlands of the western coast, but being in the
+neighbourhood of the great mining district it is somewhat neglected by
+visitors, a remark that applies to the whole of this portion of the
+coast as far as St. Ives, the great exception being Gurnards' Head. The
+inland country is bleak and barren, with a number of mining shafts
+capping the hillocks, with the result that the uninviting hinterland has
+inspired few people with the desire to explore a really grand and rocky
+piece of coast.
+
+Nearly a mile south-west of Cape Cornwall are the Brisons, two fearful
+and dangerous rocks, rising about seventy feet above high-water mark.
+Brison is Cornish for prison, and tradition affirms that these rocks
+were once used as prisons.
+
+North of the cape is Kenidjack headland, Porthleden being the name of
+the cove that divides the promontories. Skirting the coast from
+Kenidjack many fine bits of rocky scenery are passed. Botallack Head,
+with its old engine houses perched on its rocky crags, has a singularly
+savage appearance. The mine is one of the oldest in Cornwall, and the
+ancient workings continued for a considerable distance under the bed of
+the sea. The Levant, another submarine mine to the north, has also
+considerable workings beneath the sea.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE HARBOUR, NEWLYN]
+
+The next point of interest is Pendeen, or Pendinas, the "castled
+headland", near to which is Pendeen House, now a farm, but once a
+seventeenth-century manor house, in which the celebrated Cornish
+historian and antiquary, Dr. William Borlase, was born in 1695. He
+corresponded with Pope to whom on one occasion he sent a Cornish
+diamond, which was thus acknowledged by the poet: "I have received your
+gift, and have so placed it in my grotto, that it will resemble the
+donor, in the shade, but shining". The famous cave called the Pendeen
+Vau, was discovered a few yards from his home. For his day he was quite
+an enlightened antiquary, and although modern research has shown his
+_Antiquities of Cornwall_ to be full of pitfalls for the unwary, it is a
+book that has formed the basis for many an interesting volume on the
+county. The church of Pendeen occupies as bleak a site as could anywhere
+be found in England. It was designed and built by Robert Aitken the
+famous Cornish missioner. It was fashioned on the plan of the ancient
+cathedral of Iona, and was built almost entirely by the people
+themselves.
+
+A little eastward of Pendeen is the church town of Morvah, "the place by
+the sea", which has traditions relating to mermaids. Northward is
+Porthmorna, or Porth Moina, the Monk's Port, formed on one side by the
+fine cliff of Bosigran, where the rocks of granite have a pale reddish
+tint; so that when lit up by the sun they have a very brilliant
+appearance. A few years ago the bleak hills and towering cliffs in this
+locality were a favourite haunt of the peregrine falcon, the cliff hawk,
+while the blue rock dove, and Baillon's crake have been found in the
+district. Bosigran lies just under Cairn Galva, whose boldly-formed
+outline is a conspicuous landmark. Just beyond Porthmeor is the
+Gurnard's Head, the finest and most romantic point on the north side of
+the Land's End, and one of the show places of the county. The ancient
+name for the headland was Treryn Dinas. Portions of a small chapel
+remain on the isthmus, and there was once a holy well close by.
+
+The village of Zennor, about a quarter of a mile distant, lies in a wild
+and stony district. Within the very interesting church are some quaint
+bench ends, one of which depicts a mermaid, complete with comb, mirror,
+and fishy tail, but the carving is of a very primitive order. On Zennor
+Beacon is the famous Zennor Quoit or Cromlech, the largest in Cornwall,
+and one of the finest in the country. Between Zennor and St. Ives a wild
+tract of country forms the parish of Towednack with an ancient church
+within which is a true chancel arch, a constructional feature that is of
+rare occurrence in Cornish churches.
+
+The irregularly built little town of St. Ives, which has not inaptly
+been called the "Art Centre of England", is made up of two distinct
+parts. The older portion, which consists of oldfashioned houses, and
+narrow tortuous streets, is situated on a low spit of land called the
+"island", while "up-along" on the higher ground above the station, is
+the favourite and fashionable holiday resort. The ancient name of the
+place, Porth Ia, perpetuates the memory of another Irish saint, Ia, who
+is claimed as a convert of St. Patrick, and who is said to have floated
+from the shores of the Emerald Isle to those of Cornwall on a miraculous
+leaf, "by which", Mr. Arthur Salmon tells us, "is clearly meant a
+coracle of the kind still to be seen in parts of Wales". The cell of St.
+Ia stood on the site of the present parish church, which is said to
+contain her bones, and this saint is not to be confounded with those of
+St. Ive, near Liskeard, or St. Ives in Huntingdonshire. The position of
+St. Ives, on the western slope of an extensive bay, and with two
+remarkably fine sandy beaches, is one of uncommon beauty. The finest
+views of the town and the neighbourhood are those obtained from the
+grounds of the Tregenna Castle Hotel, and from the Battery Rocks.
+
+A lofty hill to the south of the town, has a pyramidical erection of
+granite in memory of John Knill, born in 1733. The obelisk bears three
+inscriptions: "Johannes Knill, 1782"; "I know that my Redeemer liveth";
+and "Resurgam". After serving his apprenticeship to a solicitor, Knill
+became Collector of Customs, and afterwards Mayor of St. Ives. Long
+before his death, which took place in 1811, he erected this mausoleum on
+Worvas Hill, but it was never applied to its purpose, as he was buried
+in London. Among the provisions of a curious will he ordained that
+"certain ceremonies should be observed once every five years, on the
+festival of St. James the Apostle; ten pounds to be spent in a dinner
+for the mayor, collector of Customs, and clergyman, and two friends to
+be invited by each of them, making a party of nine persons, to dine at
+some tavern in the borough; five pounds to be equally divided amongst
+ten girls, natives of the borough and daughters of seamen, fishermen, or
+tinners, each of them not exceeding ten years of age, who shall, between
+ten and twelve o'clock of the forenoon of that day, dance for a quarter
+of an hour at least, on the ground adjoining the mausoleum, and after
+the dance sing the 100th Psalm of the old version, to the fine old tune
+to which the same was then sung in St. Ives Church; one pound to a
+fiddler who shall play to the girls while dancing and singing at the
+mausoleum, and also before them on their return home therefrom; two
+pounds to two widows of seamen, fishers, or tinners of the borough,
+being sixty-four years old or upwards, who shall attend the dancing and
+singing of the girls, and walk before them immediately after the
+fiddler, and certify to the mayor, collector of Customs, and clergyman,
+that the ceremonies have been duly performed; one pound to be laid out
+in white ribbons for breast-knots for the girls and widows, and a
+cockade for the fiddler, to be worn by them respectively on that day and
+on the Sunday following". The observances have been duly carried out
+since the death of John Knill. The next observance will be in 1911, and
+when once at St. Ives the present writer was fortunate enough to witness
+the quaint ceremonies that are enacted every five years around the
+mausoleum of John Knill, who has succeeded in making a posthumous name
+for himself at a very trifling cost.
+
+[Illustration: LAND'S END]
+
+It was at St. Ives that Anders Zorn, the celebrated Swedish artist,
+painted his first picture with oils, a fine work that now hangs on the
+walls of the Luxembourg. The sketcher from nature who clambers along
+this rocky coast in search of colour notes or impressions, will
+perpetually experience the difficulty of not knowing where to halt,
+always a difficult problem for a painter in a new territory. Many are
+they who have seen the day draw to a close with nothing accomplished.
+This is not the result of idleness, but on account of the feeling of
+expectancy, the ever-alluring idea, that by going a little farther
+something really uncommon will be found. Points of interest innumerable
+will be passed in the pursuit of this beautiful will-o'-the-wisp, this
+perfect composition which never can, and never will, materialize on
+paper or on canvas.
+
+Hayle and Lelant are both worth visiting. The former has a fine beach
+for bathing, and the latter is renowned for its golf course. Lelant is a
+very ancient town whose fine old church is the mother church of both
+Towednack and St. Ives.
+
+Redruth and Camborne are important mining towns to which no one would go
+in search of the picturesque, and the bleak and barren surroundings may
+not inaptly be called the "Black Country" of Cornwall. Gwennap Pit, near
+Redruth, was the natural amphitheatre where John Wesley preached with
+marked success to thousands of Cornish miners. For the antiquary there
+are many interesting remains at Carn Brea, a rocky eminence overlooking
+the town, and capped with a monument, erected in 1836, to Francis, Baron
+de Dunstanville and Basset, of Tehidy.
+
+The best mine to explore, should one's tastes run in that direction, is
+the Dolcoath Mine, near Camborne station. The mine yields both copper
+and tin, and has reached the depth of 2250 feet. Portreath is to a
+certain extent the port of Redruth. The cliffs are rather fine and the
+seas exceptionally so in rough weather, but as a good deal of refuse
+water from the mines is discharged here the result is that the sea for
+a considerable distance is frequently tinged with a thick reddish
+colour.
+
+Between Portreath and St. Agnes the coast scenery is rendered very
+attractive by reason of the number of coves into which it is broken,
+such as Porth Towan, a very favourite spot with visitors.
+
+The little town of St. Agnes is steadily growing in popularity, while
+St. Agnes Beacon is of great geological interest, and from the summit a
+fine view is obtained of the Cornish coast from Trevose Head to St.
+Ives.
+
+Opie, the painter, was a native of St. Agnes, where he was born in 1761.
+The house is passed on the way to Perranporth, and is known as "Harmony
+Cottage". Opie's artistic talent is said to have been first recognized
+by "Peter Pindar", when that worthy resided at Truro. A large number of
+his early paintings may still be seen in many of the houses in the
+vicinity of his birthplace, although a considerable number have been
+carried off by discerning collectors.
+
+A few years ago Perranporth was nothing but a small cluster of
+fishermen's cottages, but the fine stretches of golden sand and some
+imposing masses of arched rocks have brought many visitors, for whom
+increased accommodation has had to be found. One and a half miles from
+Perran Round, an ancient amphitheatre, are portions of an old church,
+long hidden in the sand, over which St. Piran, or St. Piranus officiated
+in the sixth century. The church of Perranporth is a chapel of ease to
+Perranzabuloe, i.e., _Piran-in-sabulo_.
+
+Although Max Mueller satisfied himself that St. Piran was a purely
+mythical figure, and that the word "Piran" meant merely a "digger",
+others assure us that there is enough evidence to satisfy a court of law
+that Piran was connected with the school founded by Patrick, and that in
+the fifth century he was a missionary in Cornwall. Excavations are being
+made constantly around this little church half-buried in the fine sand,
+and many important discoveries have resulted. There appears to be little
+doubt that the church shares with Gwithian oratory the distinction of
+being the earliest Christian edifice of which any considerable portions
+remain in England. At the same time it is as well to bear in mind that
+the part of the material structure revealed by the spade is some two
+centuries later in date than St. Piran, the patron saint of the Tinners.
+
+[Illustration: IN ST. IVES HARBOUR]
+
+"There is a charm in the Cornish coast which belongs to no other coast
+in the world." So wrote Dean Alford many years ago, and no portion of
+Cornwall possesses greater charm than the section as seen from Newquay
+Beacon. Like so many of its neighbouring holiday resorts, Newquay was a
+very small and not very well known little place until the Great Western
+Railway gave it four trains a day from London, advertised its charms in
+the press, and depicted them in glowing colours on innumerable posters.
+The result is that Newquay has boomed to such an extent that it is now
+the great centre of attraction on the north coast. Twenty years ago
+Newquay was little more than a cluster of cottages, but so rapid has
+been its development that we seem to be centuries away from the days
+when there was no fashionable hotel on the Headland, and when the place
+was reached along a jolting little mineral line from Par Junction.
+
+The town itself is not old enough to be interesting, and as it possesses
+no "front" but few of its streets command a view of the bold
+promontories, fine beaches, tidal inlets, and the singularly blue sea,
+that make it such an attractive place for a holiday.
+
+As Mr. J. Henwood Thomas says: "One of the chief glories of Newquay is
+its grand headland. Running right out into the Atlantic it forms a bold,
+natural pier, in comparison with which the costly artificial piers which
+are to be found at most watering-places of repute are mere toys. Nothing
+can be more exhilarating than a walk to the extreme end of this jagged
+promontory. It is like breathing a vitalizing essence."
+
+Here, on the beaches of Newquay and Fistral Bay, one may go to the
+verge of the waves, and breathe the ozone that rises from the line of
+breakers, without the necessity of making detours to avoid fruit-stalls
+and bathing-saloons. Fortunately the fine sands around Newquay have not
+yet become a mart for sweetmeats and cocoanuts, nor are they the happy
+hunting ground of the negro minstrel and other troupes of fantastic
+entertainers.
+
+The chief, and one might say the only glory of North Cornwall, is the
+magnificent line of coast, particularly that portion of it bounded by
+Bedruthan Steps on the one hand, and Watergate Bay on the other, with
+Mawgan Porth and Beacon Cove lying between.
+
+At low tides Watergate Bay has a splendid stretch of sands, more than
+two miles in length, and along the cliffs here sea-pinks, sea-lavender,
+and golden samphire may be found, although the last named is becoming
+extremely rare. The cliffs along this portion of the coast are pierced
+by numerous shady caves and caverns, some of which, like the Cathedral
+Cavern and the one known as the Banqueting Hall, are of vast extent, and
+are not infrequently used for concerts and other entertainments held in
+aid of local charities.
+
+In spite of the necessary changes and improvements due to the ever
+increasing number of visitors, there is still much that is primitive to
+be seen around Newquay. Almost every ruin, rock, and church has its
+legend, more or less ancient and authentic, and once off the beaten
+track there is much that will interest the lovers of saint and folklore,
+as well as the admirers of coast scenery of a bold and broken kind.
+
+All visitors to Newquay make their way to Crantock "churchtown",
+situated on the western side of the Gannel, a small tidal stream which
+is crossed by means of a plank bridge. The village of Crantock is
+ancient and interesting, but the great attraction of the place is the
+church. Less than a dozen years ago the fabric was in a ruinous
+condition until the vicar succeeded in raising sufficient funds with
+which to preserve the building. In his appeal for help, an appeal that
+was well responded to by the visitors to Newquay, the vicar explained
+that "the foundation dates from the sixth century, when the Celtic
+Bishop, Carantoc--or Cairnech--whose name the church bears and who was a
+companion of St. Patrick, first founded a religious cell here. The
+church became collegiate before the time of King Edward the Confessor,
+and continued so, with large endowment, until it was utterly despoiled,
+and its community scattered by King Henry VIII."
+
+The circular font bears the date 1473, and many portions of early work,
+including the twelfth century walls and arches, are likewise to be seen
+within the building. The font, which is thought to be late Norman, bears
+a date cut in bold relief on the side:--
+
+
+     "ANNO DOMINI MILLESIMO CCCC^o Lxxiij (1473)."
+
+
+There were once small columns supporting the heads still to be seen at
+each angle, but these have disappeared.
+
+Mr. Arthur Salmon tells us that tradition speaks of Crantock as having
+been once part of a large town or district named Langarrow, or sometimes
+Languna, most of which now lies beneath the sand-towans. "This town is
+said to have had many fine churches and buildings, vying with the best
+cities in the Britain of that day, which seems to have been the tenth
+century."
+
+[Illustration: THE CLIFFS, NEWQUAY]
+
+Be this as it may, and there is no doubt a good deal of truth in the
+tradition, we do know that until comparatively recent years the now
+sand-choked estuary of the Gannel had a sufficient depth of water for
+fishing craft and coasting schooners; while old historians assure us
+that the channel could at one time be navigated by ships of large
+tonnage. It is quite possible that the "new quay" of the now fashionable
+watering-place owes its existence to the silting-up of the estuary that
+gave access to the old quay at Crantock. In Carew's _Survey of Cornwall_
+reference is made to "newe Kaye, a place in the north coast of this
+Hundred (Pider), so called, because in former times, the neighbours
+attempted, to supplie the defect of nature, by art, in making there a
+Kay, for the Rode of shipping".
+
+An old well in the centre of the village is said to be a "holy" one, but
+this has been disputed by antiquaries.
+
+The weird and uncanny cry of the "Gannel Crake" is heard by everyone who
+woos the charms of a romantic coast after the sun has set beyond the
+western sea. It is said to be the cry of some species of night gull, but
+is traditionally referred to by the superstitious natives as the cry of
+a troubled spirit that ever haunts the scene.
+
+A short distance inland from the porth is St. Columb Minor, the church
+of which, together with that of St. Columb Major some six miles farther
+inland is said to be dedicated to Columba, a maiden saint who is not to
+be confounded with the great Irish saint of the same name. St. Columb
+Minor is the mother parish of Newquay and possesses a fine late
+Decorated church with a remarkably good western tower, said to be the
+second highest tower in the county. The village is quite a large one
+from which some fine views of the coast may be obtained. Close at hand
+is Rialton, from which the statesman Sidney Godolphin took his title,
+and where, in the surrounding park and dells, many sketches were made by
+Stansfield, when he visited the district with his friend Charles
+Dickens.
+
+Rialton Priory is a much desecrated building that once belonged to the
+priory of Bodmin, it having been erected towards the end of the
+fifteenth century by Thomas Vivian, prior of Bodmin. In 1840 someone
+carried off a large amount of the priory's ancient stonework to
+Somerset, where it was placed in private grounds, but the Crown made an
+order for it to be returned and re-erected at Rialton.
+
+St. Columb Major occupies the crown of an eminence, the conjectured site
+of a Danish fortress. The church is large, mainly early Decorated, and
+of much beauty. In the chancel is the pre-Reformation stone altar,
+marked with the five crosses, and supported on slabs of granite. This
+had been buried beneath the floor and was discovered during some
+restorations in 1846. Other noteworthy features are the window of the
+south transept and the grotesque carvings that adorn the font. There are
+also three good brasses commemorating members of the Arundell family.
+
+The whole of this neighbourhood is famous for its "hurlers" and
+"wrestlers", a memento of which could be seen at the Red Lion a few
+years ago, for here the landlord used to exhibit with pride the silver
+punchbowl given to his grandfather (Polkinhorne) when that worthy
+escaped defeat in a wrestling bout with Cann, the champion of the
+adjoining county of Devon.
+
+The art of wrestling appears to have died out, but the once popular game
+of hurling is revived once a year, either in the village itself or along
+the sands towards Newquay. The ball used is about the size of a cricket
+ball, and after being coated with silver is inscribed:--
+
+
+     "St. Columb Major and Minor,
+       Do your best;
+     In one of your parishes
+       I must rest."
+
+
+At one time the game was very common throughout Cornwall, and many
+interesting records relating to it are in existence; but at the present
+day only the two parishes of St. Columb keep up a survival of this
+ancient game.
+
+The whole of the St. Columb district is rich in large tracts of wild and
+picturesque country, which include such heights as Denzell Downs, St.
+Issey Beacon, and St. Breock Downs, near which last stand the "Naw
+Mean", or, in modern English, the Nine Maidens. At the present time
+there are but eight of these upright stones, which tradition asserts
+were originally maidens who were turned into stone for dancing on Sunday
+to the strains of a fiddler, who shared the same fate, as witness a tall
+pillar of rock near by called the "Fiddler".
+
+On the drive from Newquay to Bedruthan Steps no one should fail to make
+a halt at Mawgan, or, to be strictly accurate, St. Mawgan in Pydar,
+either on the outward or the return journey. The village is a pretty one
+that lies in the centre of the beautiful Vale of Mawgan, or Lanherne,
+which stretches from St. Columb to the porth, or cove on the coast.
+Mawgan possesses an ancient parish church and a Roman Catholic convent
+and chapel. The church is a very fine Perpendicular building with a
+tower 70 feet in height. The building was restored by Butterfield, but
+contains some interesting old screenwork and a number of well-carved
+bench ends. The brasses include that of a priest, _circa_ 1420; Cecily
+Arundell, 1578; a civilian, _circa_ 1580; and Jane, daughter of Sir John
+Arundell, _circa_ 1580. This last is a palimpsest, made up of portions
+of two Flemish brasses, _circa_ 1375. The churchyard contains a
+beautifully sculptured fourteenth-century lantern cross, of mediaeval
+date, in the form of an octagonal shaft. Under four niches at the summit
+are sculptured representations of: God the Father with the Dove bearing
+a crucifix; an Abbot; an Abbess; and a King and Queen. The height of
+the cross is 5 feet 2 inches, the breadth of the head being 1 foot 1
+inch.
+
+The convent, the "lone manse" of Lanherne, was originally the manor
+house of the Arundells, which was, in the last years of the eighteenth
+century, presented by a Lord Arundell of Wardour to a sisterhood of
+Carmelite nuns who had fled from Antwerp in 1794. One or two of the
+pictures in the convent chapel are attributed to Rubens. Strangers may
+attend service in the chapel, but the nuns, like those of the order of
+St. Bridget at Syon Abbey, Chudleigh, are recluses of the strictest
+kind.
+
+While at Mawgan a stroll should be taken through the groves of
+Carnanton, the old-time abode of William Noye, the "crabbed"
+Attorney-General to Charles I, whose heart, we are told by his
+biographers, was found at his death to have become shrivelled up into
+the form of a leather purse.
+
+A mile beyond Mawgan Porth are the far-famed Bedruthan Steps seven miles
+from Newquay. Here the visitor will find a fine stretch of cliff
+scenery, with a succession of sandy beaches strewn with confused and
+broken masses of rock, and some large caverns that are well worth
+exploring should the state of the tide permit. The largest of these
+caverns is of vast extent and is said to be unrivalled in this respect
+along the whole of the Cornish seaboard. At low tide the great spurs of
+rock embedded in the sand have a fantastic beauty, while one of the
+largest of them bears a more than fancied resemblance to Queen
+Elizabeth, and is named after her. Another is known as the Good
+Samaritan, as against these jagged points an East Indiaman of this name
+once came to grief, when the local women folk are said to have
+replenished their wardrobes with a quantity of fine silks and satins.
+
+The coast beyond Bedruthan, by Trevose and Pentire Heads, Padstow,
+Tintagel, Boscastle, Bude, and Morwenstowe, although abounding in wild
+and rugged scenery, and full of romantic and literary associations, is
+beyond our present limits. This being so we may conclude with the words
+of J. D. Blight, one of the most learned of the older school of Cornish
+antiquaries:
+
+
+     "Those who wish to behold nature in her grandest aspect, those who
+     love the sea breezes, and the flowers which grow by the cliffs, the
+     cairns and monumental rocks, all hoary and bearded with moss, those
+     who are fond of the legends and traditions of old, and desire to
+     tread on ground sacred to the peculiar rites and warlike deeds of
+     remote ages, should visit the land of Old Cornwall."
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Cornish Riviera, by Sidney Heath
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