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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to India; of a
+Shipwreck on board the Lady Castlereagh; and a Description of New South Wales, by W. B. Cramp
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Voyage to India; of a Shipwreck on board the Lady Castlereagh; and a Description of New South Wales
+
+Author: W. B. Cramp
+
+Release Date: November 1, 2008 [EBook #27113]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGE TO INDIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sankar Viswanathan and The Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ NARRATIVE
+
+ OF A
+
+ VOYAGE TO INDIA;
+
+ OF A
+
+ SHIPWRECK
+
+ ON BOARD THE LADY CASTLEREAGH;
+
+ AND A
+
+ _DESCRIPTION OF NEW SOUTH WALES_.
+
+
+
+
+ BY W. B. CRAMP.
+
+
+
+
+ LONDON:
+
+ PRINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS AND Co. BRIDE-COURT, BRIDGE-STREET.
+
+ 1823.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE
+
+OF A
+
+VOYAGE TO INDIA,
+
+&c. &c. &c.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+SECTION I.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND--DESCRIPTION OF THE
+ CEREMONY ON CROSSING THE EQUINOCTIAL LINE, AND HIS ARRIVAL
+ AT MADRAS.
+
+
+On the 8th or 9th of January, 1815, we proceeded, in the Princess
+Charlotte, Indiaman, to North-fleet Hope, and received on board our
+cargo. On February 28th, we sailed to Gravesend, in company with the
+Company's ships Ceres, Lady Melville, Rose, and Medcalfe, and arrived
+at the Downs on the 3d of March. Our dispatches not being expected for
+some time, we moored ship. Our time passed on very pleasantly till the
+27th inst., when the weather became rather boisterous, and accompanied
+by a heavy swell. On the evening of the 28th, as the Hon. Company's
+ship Tarva, from Bengal, was rounding the Foreland, she struck on the
+Goodwin Sands, and was forced to cut away her masts to lighten her,
+and get her clear off. The Ceres drifted almost on board us; we
+slipped our cables, and with difficulty escaped the Goodwin Sands.
+
+On the 1st of April the pursers joined their respective ships, and on
+the 3d we made sail with a fair breeze, and soon cleared the English
+channel. Nothing was now heard but confusion; the pilot having just
+left the ship, the hoarse voice of the captain resounded through a
+speaking trumpet, while the seamen were busy in making sail. We had a
+fine steady breeze till we made the Bay of Biscay, when we had a
+strong gale for three days.
+
+After the hurry and bustle of the gale was over, we had a fine steady
+breeze; I then began to feel an inward pleasure, and to rejoice in the
+predilection I had imbibed from my earliest years.
+
+We arrived on the equinoctial about eight o'clock in the evening of
+the 19th of April, when one of the oldest seamen is deputed Neptune;
+when he went into the head and hailed the ship in the usual form,
+Ship, hoa! ship, hoa! what ship is that? The chief officer replied,
+The Hon. Company's ship Princess Charlotte of Wales, and that he would
+be glad of his company on the morrow. Gladly would I have dispensed
+with it. On his quitting the vessel, as is supposed, a pitch cask was
+thrown overboard on fire, which had the appearance of a boat till lost
+to view.
+
+The next morning, about nine A. M., Neptune hailed the ship again,
+when he was invited on board (from the head). On the fore-part of the
+gang-way and after-part of the long-boat, a boom was placed across,
+and a tarpauling was hung in form of a curtain, so that when they were
+in readiness they took it down, and the procession moved on towards
+the cuddy, twelve of the officers walking in the front, two by two
+with staves (broomsticks); next followed Neptune's car, (a grating
+with a chair covered with sheep skins) with Neptune, and his wife and
+child, (a recruit's child, as we had 250 on board, of his majesty's
+46th regiment) Neptune bearing in his hand the granes with forks
+uppermost, and the representation of a dolphin on the middle prong,
+and Neptune's footman riding behind (barber) his carriage, dragged by
+the constables. The captain and officers came out to meet him, and
+presented him with a glass of gin, which was on this occasion termed
+wine. After the captain's health was drank, he desired them to proceed
+to business, and to make as much haste as possible; they then
+proceeded to the starboard gang-way, and Neptune placed himself upon
+his throne (on the boom, close to the long-boat and wash-deck tub) the
+slush tub being filled with balls, and lather made of slush, and the
+barber standing ready to begin his work with a razor made of a long
+piece of iron hoop well notched; the engine was brought on the quarter
+deck, and began to play, to force those below that had not crossed the
+line. I had not been long below before an officer from Neptune came to
+me, and demanded me, in his name to appear before him at the starboard
+gang-way, whose summons must not be disobeyed. On my arrival at the
+gang-way, the usual questions were asked me, whether I had been that
+way before? Without waiting for an answer they placed me on the
+wash-deck tub, and the barber rubbed me with the back of his razor and
+then let me go, upon my previously having given an order upon my
+bottle.
+
+I had hardly got upon the poop, when one of the men was brought upon
+deck who was neither beloved by the men nor officers; they then placed
+him upon the tub, and asked him several questions, and while he was in
+the act of answering them, they thrust some black balls into his
+mouth, and then rubbed his face and neck over with lather, and scraped
+it in an unmerciful manner till the blood run in several places; they
+next pushed him into the tub of water and kept him under for the space
+of a minute, which tended to smart and inflame the wounds. It was at
+least a fortnight before he could wash himself perfectly clean; but
+now several more shared the same fate. The sun was setting fast before
+the amusements of the day were finished. The clouds presented the most
+beautiful appearance, and the rippling of the sea, together with the
+flying fish, scudding along the surface of the water, afforded the
+mariner a great field of thought. At so grand a display of the great
+and wonderful works of God, what mortal can be unmoved, or deny the
+existence of a BEING which nature herself proclaims!
+
+The evening was very fine and beautifully star-light, and the moon
+shone with resplendent brightness. After the company had withdrawn to
+their evening refreshments, I amused myself with walking on the
+solitary poop. The sea appeared to be an immense plain, and presented
+a watery mirror to the skies. The infinite height above the firmament
+stretched its azure expanse, bespangled with unnumbered stars, and
+adorned with the moon '_walking in brightness_;' while the transparent
+surface both received and returned her silver image. Here, instead of
+being covered with sackcloth,[A] she shone with resplendent lustre; or
+rather with a lustre multiplied in proportion to the number of
+beholders.
+
+[Footnote A: I must be excused for the ideal extravagance of
+"clothing" this nocturnal luminary in "SACKCLOTH," on adverting to
+that unlimited flight of poetic imagination, which speaks of "_Heaven
+peeping through the blanket of the deep_." _Vide Shakspeare's
+Macbeth._]
+
+Such I think is the effect of exemplary behaviour in persons of
+exalted rank; their course as it is nobly distinguished, so it will be
+happily influential; others will catch the diffusive rays, and be
+ambitious to resemble a pattern so commanding. Their amiable qualities
+will not terminate in themselves, but we shall see them reflected in
+their families.
+
+My readers, I trust, will not wonder at my meditations on these
+sublunary objects, when they consider that they are the seaman's
+guide, and from them the greatest sources of nautical information are
+derived.
+
+In the midst of these pleasing reveries, I was aroused by the ship
+being taken a-back, the watch being completely intoxicated, and it was
+only with difficulty that they could do their duty. Nothing material
+happened till our arrival at the Cape, when we experienced a severe
+gale for three days. The sea being heavy, she pitched her portals
+under water. We were running at the rate of ten knots per hour, under
+bare poles; and we soon after made the trade winds.
+
+On the 23d of June we arrived in Madras roads; from the deck the view
+of the land has a magnificent appearance; the different offices have,
+to the beholder, the appearance of stone, and they are formed along
+the beach in a beautiful manner; they are built with piazzas and
+verandahs, and they extend about one mile along a sandy beach, while
+the natives parading along the shore, and the surf spraying upon the
+beach, gave the scene a very picturesque appearance. The surf beats
+here with so much violence that it is impossible for any ship's boats
+to land without being dashed to pieces.
+
+On our making land we espied a small craft, called a kattamaran,
+making towards us; it was manned with two of the natives naked, except
+a handkerchief round their waist, and a straw round cap (turban) made
+with a partition in it to keep letters dry. This bark is made of three
+long hulls of trees, about ten or twelve feet in length, tied together
+with a rope so as to make in the centre a little hollow; they sit upon
+their knees in the centre, and have a long flat piece of wood, about
+five feet in length and five inches in width, which they hold in the
+centre, and keep continually in motion, first on one side and then on
+the other, and in that manner they force the kattamaran swiftly
+through the water.
+
+It is very remarkable that these poor creatures risk themselves
+through the surf for a mere trifle, to carry letters for the different
+commanders to their respective vessels, at a time when the surf is at
+a dreadful height. When these poor fellows lay themselves flat on the
+kattamaran, and then trust themselves to the mercy of the surf, they
+are often driven back with great force, and they as often venture
+again, till they effect their purpose. They generally get their living
+by fishing, which is done by hook and line, and they offer them
+alongside the different ships for sale.
+
+For two days the surf being so violent no boats could come off; but
+early on the third morning there were several came off with debashees
+(merchants) on board. They brought such things as might be wanted by
+the ship's company and officers. Their boats are made to carry
+passengers and cargo. There is not a vestige of a nail to be seen in
+them, their seams, instead of being nailed, are sewed together with
+coir rope; and they are generally manned with six or eight men.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION II.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS AND ARRIVAL AT
+ BENGAL--DEPARTURE THEREFROM--HIS VESSEL RUNS ASHORE ON THE
+ PULICAT SHOALS, AND GETS SAFE AFLOAT AGAIN, AFTER BEATING
+ SIX HOURS AND FORTY MINUTES--HIS SAFE ARRIVAL AT MADRAS, AND
+ DESCRIPTION OF THE DIVERS--ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY--THE SHIP BEING
+ DOCKED, THE AUTHOR IS SENT TO BUTCHER'S ISLAND WITH THE
+ SHIP'S COMPANY--A DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF
+ ELEPHANTA--HIS JOINING THE SHIP AFTER HER LEAVING THE
+ DOCK--HIS WORDS WITH HIS COMMANDER, AND BEING TURNED BEFORE
+ THE MAST IN CONSEQUENCE--HIS DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY, AND
+ AFTER A SHORT PERIOD HE IS REPLACED IN HIS FORMER
+ SITUATION--AND ARRIVES AT MADRAS.
+
+
+We sailed from Madras, August 23d, and arrived at Bengal on the 30th.
+The scenery on the entrance up the river was indeed sublime, and
+inspired us with a sensation of gratitude to the Giver of all good. I
+went up to Calcutta with a craft of cargo; but having been sent down
+immediately, I could form no idea of the place.
+
+On the 20th December we sailed from Bengal bound to Madras, in company
+with the Honourable Company's ship Marquis of Wellington. We kept
+a-head of her on the morning of the 25th, till she was almost mast
+down, and expected to bring-to about twelve o'clock in the Madras
+roads; but our expectations were greatly damped by the following
+circumstances:--At 8 A. M. the ship struck on the Pulicat rocks with
+such great violence, as to knock almost every man off his legs; the
+lead was immediately called, which, to the disgrace of some one, was
+not on deck; in the course of two minutes she struck again with as
+much violence as before; sail was immediately taken in, and after
+sounding, we found we drew about three and a half feet water. We then
+made signal of distress, by hoisting the ensign union downwards, and
+firing a gun. The Marquis of Wellington by this time hove in sight;
+all was confusion and consternation, the ship having beat several
+times with great violence. The Wellington hove to, and sent their
+cutter with four men and a second mate to our assistance, and then
+made sail and passed us, without rendering us any other assistance.
+The pinnace and long-boats, booms and spars, were immediately sent
+over the side, and the kedge-anchor was placed in the long-boat; but
+she leaked so very fast, that with all the united efforts of the
+seamen they could not keep her above water.
+
+The weather was now very cloudy and black, and threatened a severe
+gale; so that our present situation became very disagreeable, as no
+assistance could be rendered us off shore, should necessity require
+it. But owing to the exertions of the officers and men, we effectually
+swung her head to the wind, which was blowing strong from the shore,
+and by 7 P. M. we anchored safe in the roads.
+
+On the following morning we were busily employed in discharging our
+cargo and sending it on board its destined ships, (Honourable
+Company's ships Stratham and Rose.) After our clearance, the divers
+were expected from off shore, to examine the damage the ship's bottom
+had received; but, owing to the inclemency of the weather, it was
+impossible for them to get off from shore.
+
+A seaman on board, by birth a West Indian, engaged to dive under the
+ship's bottom, and to acquaint us with the state of it, which was
+gladly accepted. In his youth he had been a fisherman on the coast of
+the island of Jamaica: the weather being rough, it was thought unsafe
+for him to venture; but on the following morning, it being quite calm,
+he prepared himself for his expedition: after he had jumped overboard,
+he walked, or rather trod water, round the ship; he informed us the
+copper was much battered above water, and in many places whole sheets
+of it were broken off; and after he had made us perfectly acquainted
+with the damages we had received above, he dived under her counter,
+and abreast of the after, main, and fore hatchways;--when he came on
+board, he informed us, that about twelve feet of our false-keel was
+knocked off, and about six feet of our copper abreast of the
+main-hatchway, besides a quantity of copper in different places, all
+of which we found to be true after we were docked.
+
+We received considerable damage on board; the bolts were started from
+her side about three inches, and the main-beams sprung. Three days
+after he had dived, the captain came on board with two native divers,
+and several officers of the different vessels lying in the roads, to
+survey the ship. When they went under they brought up the same
+account as our man had first given. After about an hour's
+consultation, our ship was ordered to Bombay to be docked, it being
+the most convenient one for a ship of our burden. In a few days after
+we proceeded on our passage, and arrived in safety, keeping the pumps
+in continual motion during our passage.
+
+The Island of Bombay is situated on the west coast of the ocean, and
+one of the three Presidencies belonging to the Honourable East India
+Company, and is in Lat. 18° 55' N. and Lon. 72° 54' E. of Greenwich.
+As soon as we had discharged all our cargo, and the ship was docked,
+the ship's company and officers were sent to Butcher's Island.
+
+Butcher's Island is a small island situated about four miles and a
+half to the westward of Bombay, and is in circumference about one mile
+and a half, and has been a very formidable garrison. In the centre is
+a small fort and two barracks, the latter we took possession of for
+the ship's company. Soon after our landing on the island, a party of
+us went over to the Island of Elephanta.
+
+The Island of _Elephanta_ is about one mile and a half to the west of
+Butcher's Island, and is inhabited by 100 poor Indian families. It
+contains one of the most stupendous antiquities in the world: the
+figure of an elephant of the natural size, cut coarsely in black
+stone, appears in an open plain, near the landing place, from which an
+easy slope leads to an immense subterraneous cavern, hewn out of the
+solid rock, eighty or ninety feet long and forty broad, the roof of
+which is cut flat, and supported by regular rows of pillars, about ten
+feet high, with capitals resembling round cushions, and at the farther
+end of it are three gigantic figures, mutilated by the bigoted zeal of
+the Portuguese, when this island was in their possession. After
+spending the day very pleasantly we returned.
+
+The Sergeant (an old invalid) who had charge of the fort, had a
+beautiful little garden; thither in the morning I frequently resorted,
+to enjoy one of the most charming pieces of morning scenery that I had
+ever witnessed.
+
+ "Awake! the morning shines, and the fresh fields
+ Call you; ye lose the prime to mark how spring
+ The tender plants; how blows the citron grove;
+ What drops the myrrh, and what the balmy reed;
+ How nature paints her colours; how the bee
+ Sits on the bloom, extracting liquid sweets."
+
+ MILTON'S PARADISE LOST.
+
+How delightful this fragrance. It is distributed in the nicest
+proportion; neither so strong as to depress the organs, nor so faint
+as to elude them. We are soon cloyed at a sumptuous banquet, but this
+pleasure never loses its poignancy, never palls the appetite; here
+luxury itself is innocent; or rather, in this case, indulgence is not
+capable of excess. Our amusements for the forenoon were our nautical
+studies, and in the afternoon officers and men joined in cricket. In
+the evening, after my duty of the day was dispatched, and the sultry
+heats were abated, I enjoyed the recreation of a walk in one of the
+finest recesses of the Island, and in one of the pleasantest evenings
+which the season produced.
+
+The trees uniting their branches over my head, formed a verdant
+canopy, and cast a most refreshing shade; under my feet lay a carpet
+of Nature's velvet; grass intermingled with moss, and embroidered with
+the evening dew; jessamines, united with woodbines, twined around the
+trees, displaying their artless beauties to the eye, and diffusing
+their delicious sweets through the air. On either side, the boughs
+rounding into a set of regular arches, opened a view into the distant
+seas, and presented a prospect of the convex heavens. The little birds
+all joyous and grateful for the favours of the light, were paying
+their acknowledgments in a tribute of harmony, and soothing themselves
+to rest with songs. All these beauties of Nature were for a while
+withdrawn. The stars served to alleviate the frown of night, rather
+than to recover the objects from their obscurity. A faint ray scarcely
+reflected, and only gave the straining eye a very imperfect glimpse.
+
+The day following that the ship came out of dock we joined her. Our
+labours were now unremitted, to get her in readiness for sea. Amidst
+all our exertions it was impossible to give any satisfaction; our
+chief mate was very arbitrary, and vented his spleen upon the
+defenceless midshipmen, besides making the backs of the poor seamen
+sore with _starting_. Starting is a term used for rope's-ending a man,
+or otherwise laying a _Point_ severely across their shoulders till
+they have not the strength to wield it any longer; a point is a flat
+platted rope, made for the purpose of taking in reefs, or otherwise to
+fasten the sail upon the yards.
+
+At length my life became so truly miserable, that I was determined in
+my own mind not to endure it, if there was any possibility of avoiding
+it. For that purpose I wrote on board his Majesty's frigate,
+Revolutionnaire, for a situation, when Captain Wolcombe generously
+offered me one, provided I could get permission of Captain Craig to
+leave my present ship. I was at length forced to leave Bombay,
+through this and other circumstances.
+
+On our arrival at Madras every preparation was made for receiving our
+cargo on board, which was speedily done, and in a short time was ready
+for sea.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION III.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS, DESCRIPTION OF A
+ WATER-SPOUT--HIS ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA AND DEPARTURE
+ THEREFROM, ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND--JOINS HIS MAJESTY'S TRANSPORT
+ SHIP, TOTTENHAM, BOUND FOR NEW SOUTH WALES--HER RUNNING ON
+ SHORE IN THE RIVER AND PUTTING BACK TO DOCK--HE AFTERWARDS
+ JOINS HIS MAJESTY'S TRANSPORT SHIP, LADY CASTLEREAGH. HIS
+ DEPARTURE FROM DEPTFORD AND ARRIVAL AT PORTSMOUTH--HIS
+ DEPARTURE THEREFROM AND ARRIVAL AT NEW SOUTH WALES.
+
+
+As soon as our dispatches were in readiness, we proceeded on our
+passage for England; the morning was beautiful, and as the men were
+heaving up the anchor, my heart felt an inward sensation of joy and
+gratitude to our Creator, that he had been pleased to bring us so far
+safe on our voyage; we made sail with a steady breeze, and soon lost
+sight of land. After we had been at sea about two days, close on our
+weather-bow we observed a water-spout; when we first saw it, it was
+whole and entire, and was in shape like a speaking trumpet, the small
+end downwards, and reaching to the sea, and the large end terminating
+in a black thick cloud: the spout itself was very black, and the more
+so the higher up; it seemed to be exactly perpendicular to the
+horizon, and its sides perfectly smooth, without the least ruggedness
+where it fell. The spray of the sea rose to a considerable height,
+which had somewhat the appearance of smoke; from the first time we saw
+it, it continued whole about a minute, and till it was quite
+dissipated three minutes; it began to waste from below, and gradually
+up, while the upper part remained entire, without any visible
+alteration, till at last it ended in black clouds, upon which a heavy
+rain fell in the neighbourhood. There was but little wind, and the sky
+was otherwise serene.
+
+On our rounding the Cape we experienced a very heavy gale, which
+continued for the space of ten days. We arrived at St. Helena in about
+ten days after clearing the Cape of Good Hope.
+
+The approach to this Island is tremendous, it being an immense large
+rock in the midst of the sea, on which there is not the least
+appearance of verdure, houses, or indeed any sign of inhabitants, till
+you arrive at the anchorage, which is to leeward of the Island; and in
+turning round the corner of the rock is a fort, close to the water's
+edge, from whence they make all ship's heave to, till they have sent a
+boat on board from the Admiral; and in case no attention is paid to
+their signal, they fire a shot. After proceeding a little way, the
+town is discovered in the midst of a valley, and has a very
+picturesque appearance.
+
+The produce of the Island is potatoes and yams. The yams are used in
+time of great scarcity of wheat, for bread; the inhabitants are under
+the necessity of boiling them 12 hours and baking them, before they
+can eat them; and in fact, many of the Islanders prefer them to bread.
+The coast produces an amazing quantity of fish, particularly mackarel,
+which are in great abundance, and run in shoals about six fathom under
+water. At this time Napoleon resided at Longwood.
+
+After staying here 12 days, we proceeded on our passage to England,
+and arrived there in six weeks and two days.--The distressed state of
+England, and scarcity of employment determined me again to try my
+fortune abroad, and for that purpose I made several applications to
+the different owners, but for some time was very unsuccessful. At
+length I was engaged by Messrs. Robinson, to join his Majesty's Ship
+Tottenham, bound to New South Wales with 200 convicts. On June the 8th
+I joined her. After receiving all the ship's and government stores on
+board, we proceeded to Woolwich, and received on board 50 of our
+number, and in the afternoon of the same day we made sail, and on a
+sudden struck on a reef at low water; we were lying high and dry;
+every means was used to get her off, but without success, till we sent
+our convicts up to the hulks, and discharged our stores into the
+different crafts sent for that purpose, and by that means lightened
+her so, that at the flood she drifted; she was so materially damaged,
+it was deemed necessary she should return back to Deptford to Dock.
+
+I had not waited long in London, before another vacancy occurred on
+board His Majesty's Transport Ship Lady Castlereagh, lying at
+Deptford, bound to the same Port. Shortly after I had joined her, we
+sailed to Woolwich, and received on board our guard, which was
+composed of a detachment of his Majesty's 46th regiment of foot, and
+after receiving a portion of our convicts, we proceeded on our passage
+to Portsmouth: we received another portion from Sheerness, and in two
+days arrived at Portsmouth. The remainder of our prisoners not being
+in readiness, we were forced to bring up and moor ship a cable each
+way.
+
+Spithead is a spacious road for shipping, between Portsmouth and the
+Isle of Wight, and where they in general lie after they are in
+readiness for sea. I went on shore to see the town of Portsmouth. It
+is situated inland of Portsea; the streets are generally narrow, and
+rather dirty, owing to their not being properly paved.
+
+The Dock-yards, as there are several, resemble distinct towns, and are
+under a government separate from the garrison. Here is a commodious
+arsenal for laying up cannon, and the fortress may be justly
+considered as the most regular one in Great Britain. The number of men
+employed in the different rope-yards generally is considered to be
+between eight or nine hundred, and the garrison is very large. The
+town of Portsmouth contains about 40,000 inhabitants, and the harbour
+is reckoned one of the finest in the world, as there is water
+sufficient for the largest ships, and is so very capacious that the
+whole of the British navy may ride in safety. The principal branch run
+up to Fareham, a second to Pouchester and a third to Portsea Bridge;
+besides these channels there are several rithes, or channels, where
+the small men of war lie at their moorings. Opposite the town is the
+spacious road of Spithead. On the 20th of December we received our
+convicts, and the following day we made sail and passed through the
+Needles, which are two sharp-pointed rocks at the N. W. end of the
+Isle of Wight, so called from their sharp extremities.
+
+The prisoners, during their voyage, behaved themselves with great
+propriety, considering the variety of characters which we had on
+board. We arrived at New South Wales on the 26th of April, 1818, after
+a pleasant passage.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION IV.
+
+ DESCRIPTION OF NEW SOUTH WALES--DEPARTURE THEREFROM--ARRIVAL
+ AT VAN DIEMAN'S LAND.
+
+
+We now made for the eastern coast of New Holland, southward of Port
+Jackson; the coast has a most beautiful appearance, being constantly
+green during the year. From the south cape, about five leagues to the
+northward, is a most spacious bay with good anchorage, and sheltered
+from all winds. The natives are very ferocious; few vessels put in
+without partially suffering by their depredations, particularly seamen
+who, having ventured from their parties, have been by them cut off,
+robbed, and murdered. This place is called Two-fold Bay; ten leagues
+farther north is Bateman's Bay. Here is good anchorage and plenty of
+fresh water, but it lies open to the E. N. E. winds, and when they
+prevail they are accompanied by a heavy swell, so that it is
+impossible for vessels to lie secure. Seventeen leagues farther north
+is Jervis's Bay, and an excellent harbour and good shelter from all
+winds, with a fine sandy bottom. Round two small islands, at the mouth
+of the bay, there are two very large kinds of fish, which are caught
+in abundance with hook and line, called king fish and snappers.
+
+The next harbour to the northward is Botany Bay, which is a capacious
+bay, with excellent anchorage for shipping; but the entrance is very
+dangerous to those commanders who are strangers to the coast. At the
+head of the bay is George's River, which extends about sixty miles up
+the country, and is navigable for small vessels of about 40 tons
+burden; on the banks of this river there are several settlements,
+which I shall hereafter describe. Nine miles farther north are the
+heads of Port Jackson; on approaching the heads from sea, the entrance
+is so narrow, and the rocks so perpendicular, that the opening is not
+perceivable at a distance.
+
+On the south head is a look-out house, and a flag staff, on which a
+yellow flag is hoisted on the approach of any vessels from sea, which
+is answered by another signal staff on a battery at the north end of
+the town, called Davis's Point Battery, which is to be seen from all
+parts of the town, so that a vessel is known to be approaching before
+she enters the port. After entering the heads, the river runs due
+south for six miles, it then turns short round a point of land on the
+north shore, called Bradley's Head, which runs due west for
+twenty-four miles. After rounding Bradley's Head, the town of Sydney
+is perceivable, about three miles distant on the south shore. The
+anchorage is a small cove, as still as a mill-pond, land-locked around
+on all sides; the principal buildings in view are the stores and
+dwelling of Mr. Campbell, a Bengal merchant; they are built of white
+stone and have a noble appearance: the next is the government stores,
+a large stone building, at the end of which is the hospital, wharf,
+and stairs, the only public-landing place in the cove; here are two
+centinels continually parading the quay. From the landing place is a
+fine wide street, called George Street, with several fine stone and
+brick buildings, extending a mile and a half long, and joining the
+race ground. The public buildings in this line are the governor's
+secretary's office, an orphan school for female children, and the
+military barracks, with many fine private buildings, shops, &c. On the
+S. E. side of the cove is the government house, a low but very
+extensive building, surrounded with verandahs, and built in the
+eastern style, with an extensive park and garden surrounded with a
+high stone wall. About a quarter of a mile south of the government
+house is the general hospital, a large and extensive building, erected
+without any expense to government, the whole having been completed and
+paid for by three private gentlemen of the colony, for the grant of
+certain privileges. One mile further S. E. is Wallamolla, a fine brick
+and stone mansion, the property and dwelling house of John Palmer,
+Esq., formerly Commandant-general of the colony.
+
+Between the general hospital and Wallamolla is the race ground, a fine
+level course three miles long, planned and laid out after the model of
+Doncaster race course, by order of his excellency Lochlin Macquarie.
+The races commence on the 12th of August, and last three days, during
+which time the convicts are exempt from all government duties.
+Convicts that are placed in the town of Sydney are in many respects
+happier than those farther inland; those who are employed in the
+service of government are under the inspection of the superintendent
+of the public works; they assemble at the ringing of a bell, in the
+government-yard, soon after day-light, and are mustered by their
+respective overseers and conducted to their work by them, having
+received their orders from the superintendent on the preceding
+evening. The overseers are themselves convicts of good character, and
+perfect masters of their different trades. They labour from day-light
+until nine o'clock, and they have then one hour allowed them to
+breakfast, then they return and work till three in the afternoon, and
+from that time they are at liberty to work for whom they think proper.
+
+On leaving Sydney, the next settlement is Rose Hill, or, called by the
+natives, Paramatta, and it is situated due west up the river. Between
+Sydney and Paramatta there is but one settlement, about half way,
+which is called Kissing Point, and close on its banks is a large farm,
+kept by Mr. Squires, who likewise carries on an extensive brewery. The
+principal edifice at Paramatta is the government stores, a large stone
+building; close to the landing-place, and leading into the town, is a
+street about a mile long. They are generally small cottages, and are
+mostly inhabited by the convicts; and to each is attached a small
+garden, which they are compelled to keep in good order.
+
+There is also a large manufactory of flax, the produce of the country,
+of which they make coarse cloth of different descriptions. This town
+is under the direction of the bishop of New South Wales (Samuel
+Marsden) and is the place where the noted George Barrington resided
+many years as chief constable, and died in the year 1806, highly
+respected by the principal men of the colony. At eight miles distance,
+in a westerly direction, is the village of Galba, which is a very
+fertile soil, the farms being in high cultivation, the ground clear of
+timber, and numbers of sheep and oxen seen grazing in its fields. Two
+miles south of Galba is the village of Castle Hills, in appearance
+resembling Galba; and a number of farm houses scattered about as far
+as the eye can reach. About fourteen miles, in a S. E. direction, is
+the town of Liverpool, on the banks of George's River; here
+cultivation is making rapid progress; and on each side of the river
+are numerous farms, till the traveller arrives at its termination.
+From George's River a branch runs in a N. W. direction, is about
+twenty miles in length, and is called the Nepean River. Here the eye
+of the agriculturist would be highly delighted at the verdure that
+constantly appears in view; the farms are but thinly dispersed, as the
+Nepean is not navigable.
+
+At the extremity of the Nepean is the most extensive tract of land
+that has yet been discovered. This tract is laid out in pastures,
+which are literally covered with wild cattle, the produce of six cows
+and a bull which escaped from the colony about forty years ago. They
+were discovered by a runaway convict, who returned to the settlement
+and reported his discovery, for which they pardoned him his crime of
+desertion. After leaving the cow pastures, due north is the town of
+Windsor, the most productive place in the colony for grain of every
+description, which is brought to be shipped on the River Hawksborough,
+in small crafts for that purpose. Windsor is sixty miles from Sydney,
+and the river is navigable all the way from the sea; its entrance is
+called Broken Bay, and is fourteen miles north of Port Jackson, and
+thirty miles north of Broken Bay.
+
+The town of Newcastle is situated about seven miles up the river,
+called the Coal River, in consequence of coals being found there in
+great abundance, of very good quality. This town is a place where all
+are sent to that prove refractory, or commit any crimes or
+misdemeanors in the colony, and is much dreaded by the convicts as a
+place of punishment.
+
+Newcastle is the last settlement to the northward of Sydney; the
+natives are black, and appear to be a most miserable race of people:
+they live entirely naked, both men, women, and children, and they
+possess not the least shame. They carry fish and game to the different
+towns and villages inhabited by the English, which they barter for
+bread, tobacco, or spirits; they are, in general, of a light make,
+straight limbed, with curly black hair, and their face, arms, legs,
+and backs are usually besmeared with white chalk and red ochre. The
+cartilage of their nose is perforated, and a piece of reed, from eight
+to ten inches long, thrust through it, which seamen whimsically term
+their spritsail-yard. They seem to have no kind of religion; they bury
+their dead under ground, and they live in distinct clans, by the terms
+Gull, Taury Gull, or Uroga Gull, &c. They are very expert with their
+implements of war, which are spears made of reed, pointed with crystal
+or fish bone; they have a short club made of iron wood, called a
+waday, and a scimeter made of the same wood. Those inhabiting the
+coast have canoes; but the largest I ever saw would not hold more than
+two men with safety.
+
+Their marriage ceremony is truly romantic; all the youth of a clan
+assemble, and are each armed with wadays; they then surround the young
+woman, and one seizes her by the arm, he is immediately attacked by
+another, and so on till he finds no combatant on the field, and then
+the conquering hero takes her to his arms.
+
+The different kinds of game which the colony produces, are several
+kinds of kangaroos, of the same species, but differing in size and
+colour. Beasts of prey have never been seen in the colony. The birds
+are, parrots, cockatoos, and a large one called _emus_, which have
+very long legs and scarcely any wings; they in general live upon fern,
+and weigh from seventy to eighty pounds; there are likewise a number
+of black swans. The woods abound with a number of dangerous reptiles,
+such as centipedes and scorpions.
+
+Government not being disposed to receive all our convicts, we were
+taken up to proceed to Van Diemen's Land, with a crew of two hundred
+convicts, besides a detachment of one hundred and sixty rank and file
+of his Majesty's 46th regiment of foot. We sailed from hence, and
+arrived at Van Diemen's Land after a pleasant passage of six days.
+
+Van Diemen's Land is situated south of the Cape of New Holland, and is
+a dependency under the control of the Governor-General. Here is a
+Deputy-Governor, who resides at the principal town, called Hobart's
+Town, situated about thirty miles up the Derwent; it is a town at
+present consisting of small cottages, or huts, built of wood, and with
+but few free inhabitants. The soil of the country is good; but there
+is a very inconsiderable trade. The Derwent runs ninety miles due west
+up the country. North of the Derwent, about twenty miles, is Frederick
+Henry's Bay, an immense deep bay, with good anchorage and shelter for
+shipping; and north-west of Henry's Bay is another fine river, called
+Port Dalrymple; it runs south-west ninety miles inland; at the head of
+it is a town, called Launceston; the inhabitants are principally
+convicts, and are employed in clearing the land for government. The
+native inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land are nearly the same as those
+of New Holland; and they at present hold no intercourse with the
+European inhabitants. After our prisoners were received on shore, they
+sent us another detachment of 150 rank and file of his Majesty's 46th
+regiment for Madras, and we began to prepare for sea.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION V.
+
+ DEPARTURE FROM VAN DIEMEN'S LAND AND ARRIVAL AT MADRAS--AN
+ ACCOUNT OF A SEVERE GALE, AND THE GREAT DANGER OF SHIPWRECK,
+ TOGETHER WITH HER WONDERFUL ESCAPE FROM IT, AND HER SAFE
+ ARRIVAL IN CUDDALORE.
+
+
+The morning was beautiful, and the noise of the crew weighing the
+anchor, created much life and bustle; and as we proceeded out of the
+harbour Nature seemed to smile, and bid us welcome to the watery
+element we had been so long traversing. A few days after, we entered
+the Endeavour Straits, which are about ten leagues long and five
+broad. We had several canoes off from the shore of New Guinea. It is a
+long narrow island of the South Pacific Ocean, and north of New
+Holland, from which it is separated by this strait, except on the
+north-east entrance, where it is counteracted by a group of islands,
+called the Prince of Wales's Islands. The land is generally low, and
+covered with an astonishing luxuriance of wood and herbage. The
+inhabitants resemble those of New Holland, omitting the quantity of
+grease and red-ochre with which the New Hollanders besmear their
+skins.
+
+Their canoes are neatly carved, and are about twelve feet in length;
+they have outriggers to keep them firm on the water, and they are
+formed out of the hulls of trees; they carry about five or six men.
+They brought on board a quantity of shells, bows, arrows, and clubs,
+besides other trifling articles, and they would exchange with us for
+bits of old iron-hoops, or in fact any old thing, however trifling.
+The breeze freshening, we soon lost sight of the native merchants.
+
+We arrived at Madras on the 12th of September, 1818, after a tedious
+passage. Owing to General Munro's intended departure for England, our
+cargo was immediately got ready, and as expeditiously received by us,
+and we were ready for sea on the 20th of October; but our dispatches
+not being in readiness, we were forced to remain at our anchorage, and
+on the morning of the 24th the clouds looked very black, and
+threatened a severe storm; but no preparations were made on board, and
+at 4 P. M. signal was made from the shore for all ships to leave the
+roads, which unfortunately was not noticed by many of the officers of
+the different vessels. At 5 P. M. the gale commenced; but through
+neglect the royal and top-gallant yards were not sent down, nor could
+the officer commanding be persuaded that any danger would arise from
+remaining at our anchorage; the ship's company now came aft and
+expostulated; but the officer in command called them all cowards, and
+said he would not start her anchor if it blew the masts out of her.
+
+About 2 A. M. on the 25th, the gale commenced with the utmost fury,
+and she rode her scuttles under water, but as they were not secure,
+the sea came inboard and made very fast upon us. At 6 A. M. the water
+was three feet on the lee-side of our gun-deck, and from the continual
+working of the ship the chests broke from their fastenings.
+
+After seeing a vessel go down at her anchors close on our starboard
+bow, the officer then gave orders for our cable to be slipped, which
+was immediately put into execution. John Gardener, a seaman, wishing
+to go aloft, and not taking proper hold, was blown from the rigging,
+and never seen again. We set the fore-sail, which immediately split;
+the mainsail, met with the same fate; the gaskets of the topsails gave
+way, and the sails split. At half past eight we found we had sprung a
+leak, owing to the ship's labouring so much; in the course of ten
+minutes we sounded, and found three feet water in the hold. The pumps
+were choaked; by 9 A. M. they were cleared, and by this time we had
+eight feet water in the well, and three on the gun-deck; the ship
+rolled very much, and the chests, guns, and water-casks, being all
+cast adrift, were dashing from larboard to starboard with the greatest
+fury. At 10 A. M. the ship labouring so much, and her being eight
+streaks of her main-deck under water, abreast of her main-hatchway, so
+that we had very little prospect of her living two minutes above
+water, it was thought necessary to send her mizen-mast by the board,
+in order to righten her; but while going, the mizen-mast heeled to
+windward and caught her royal-yards in the top-sail tye, and stayed
+her so, that we were compelled to cut away the main-mast, which
+carried the fore-top-mast and jib-boom; and, while in the act of going
+by the board, it knocked an invalid down and killed him on the spot.
+The ship rightened a little; but the sea was very boisterous, and we
+appeared to be in a valley in the midst of a number of tremendous high
+mountains, which to all appearance seemed ready to fall and crush us.
+The carpenter came forward, and informed us, that we had sprung
+another leak, and that we had ten feet water in the well; the men, as
+by one accord, dropped the pumps, and appeared to despair; we might
+all have well exclaimed with the poet,
+
+ "Heaven have mercy here upon us!
+ For only that can save us now."
+
+"The atmosphere was hurled into the most tremendous confusion, the
+aerial torment burst itself over mountains, seas, and continents. All
+things felt the dreadful shock; all things trembled under her scourge,
+her sturdy sons were strained to the very nerves, and almost swept her
+headlong to the deep."
+
+It would be in vain to attempt to give a description of our feelings
+at this critical moment, tortured as we were with anguish and despair.
+Every man seemed now as if all was given over for lost, when the
+carpenter came forward and informed us the leak was found out, and
+that with a little exertion it might be stopped; the men then rose
+with great vigour, flew to the pumps with renovated strength, and gave
+three cheers. The cabins were all washed down, and a party of men were
+busily employed throwing every thing overboard,--self was not
+considered,--the very last rag was committed to the furious elements
+without a sigh. At 11 A. M. the sea struck her starboard
+quarter-gallery and forced it from its birth, and as we were busily
+employed, a cry was heard, the starboard fore-mast port was carried
+away, and the sea forced itself with great rapidity along the deck;
+but the seamen flew to meet this new misfortune with the vigour of
+tigers, not considering the dangers they had to encounter, and thus
+effectually succeeded in stopping the leak.
+
+While the seamen were busily employed, the troops were desired to
+pump, which they firmly refused, and said they would sooner sink,
+except a poor blind man, who could not keep from them; his reply was
+truly noble, and, I am sure, my readers will excuse my repeating it.
+"I am unworthy of the life I have if I do not exert myself in this
+hour of distress; if it has pleased God to deprive me of the blessing
+of sight, he has not of the feelings of a Christian." At half past
+eleven the gale greatly abated, and by this time the carpenter had
+stopped the leak, by using all the gunny bags and blankets that could
+be found; the damage was occasioned by the masts beating under her
+counter. By 12 A. M. it was a perfect calm; the men were now busily
+employed clearing the gun-deck, and securing every port-hole and
+scuttle in which they effectually succeeded by 1 P. M.
+
+"For a moment the turbulent and outrageous sky seemed to be assuaged;
+but it intermitted its wrath only to increase its strength; soon the
+sounding squadrons of the air returned to their attack, and renewed
+their ravages with redoubled fury; and the stately dome rocked amidst
+the wheeling clouds. The impregnable clouds tottered on its basis, and
+threatened to overwhelm those whom it was intended to protect, the
+vessel was almost rent in pieces, and scarcely secure; where then was
+a place of safety? Sleep affrighted flew, diversion was turned into
+horror; all was uproar in the elements; all was consternation among
+us, and nothing was seen but one wide picture of rueful devastation.
+
+"The ocean swelled with tremendous commotions; the ponderous waves
+were heaved from their capacious beds, and almost lay bare the
+unfathomed deep; flung into the most rapid agitation, they swept over
+us, and tossed themselves into the clouds. We were rent from our
+anchors, and with all our enormous load were whirled swift as an arrow
+along the vast abyss. Now we climb the rolling mountains, we plough
+the frightful ridge, and seem to skim the skies; anon we plunge into
+the opening gulf, we reel to and fro, and stagger in the jarring
+decks, or climb the cordage, whilst bursting seas foam over the decks.
+Despair is in every face, and death sits threatening in every surge."
+The whistling of the wind and roaring of the sea, together with the
+voice of despairing seamen, and the dreadful shrieks of the women,
+made us truly miserable; but we were forced to exert ourselves with
+assumed courage and vigour, which could only be imagined but by those
+placed in a similar situation,--our exertions were for life or death,
+knowing that if they once failed, that nothing was to be expected but
+to perish in a watery grave.
+
+We kept the water under to about three feet during the time of this
+dreadful gale; about 4 P. M. it abated, and about 5 P. M. it blew a
+steady breeze from the south-west; and at 6 P. M. we went round her to
+examine the damage we had sustained; when, dreadful to relate, we
+found that a man and child had been washed out of their hammocks and
+perished; on proceeding along the waste we found two invalids had been
+jammed to death between two water-casks and the ship's sides, making a
+total of six lives lost during the storm.
+
+The hatches were opened about 8 P. M.; but the provisions being so
+salt and sodden with the sea water, they could not be eaten, on
+account of the scarcity of fresh water. After the watch was set we
+laid ourselves down upon the upper-deck with no other covering than
+the starry heavens.
+
+On the following day we commenced clearing the wreck, and rigging up
+jurymasts, which we happily effected before sun-set; and on the 28th
+we arrived at Sadras, which lay south by west of Madras, distant
+fifteen miles. We lay here till the 30th without any tidings of the
+captain.
+
+The men from fatigue and pain, from sleeping on the wet decks, and
+continual pumping, came aft, and said the clouds threatened another
+storm, and that the monsoons were growing very strong, and in case the
+weather should alter for the worse, they had not strength left to
+work the ship in another gale, from want of nourishment; and that
+provided the officers did not think proper to remove to a place of
+safety, they were determined to take charge of her and proceed to
+Trincomalee, and deliver the vessel into the hands of the
+under-writers. All our remonstrances to them were in vain, until the
+chief mate pledged his word and honour, that if the captain did not
+join her the next morning, he would, ill as he was, take charge of her
+and proceed there himself.
+
+On the following morning the captain joined her, with the hon. L. G.
+K. Murray, secretary to the board of trade at Madras, when they
+brought on board a quantity of provisions, which we stood very much in
+need of, and immediately made sail and arrived the same day at
+Pondicherry. The governor sent us on board a new anchor, as our own
+was sprung. Pondicherry is a town of Hindostan, under the French
+government, and situated on the coast of Coromandel, seventy-five
+miles S. S. W. of Madras.
+
+On the following day we run into Cuddalore, a little above the first
+bar. Cuddalore is a town of Hindostan, one hundred miles S. S. W. of
+Madras. Thirty of the ship's company being sick, they, with me, were
+compelled to leave the ship, and forced to proceed on shore to the
+hospital. I was about this time seized with a violent fit of the
+cholera morbus. It is supposed to originate from the cold damp airs
+which are very prevalent at this time of the season. A gentleman's
+bungalow was humanely given up as a hospital, or friendly receptacle,
+for our incapacitated seamen, during our sojourn at Cuddalore.
+
+The possibility of visiting the native town was precluded by the
+peculiar strictness of the regulations imposed upon us.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VI.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CUDDALORE AND ARRIVAL AT
+ PONDICHERRY--DEPARTURE THEREFROM, AND ARRIVAL AT MADRAS,
+ WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME--ACCOUNT OF THE RELIGION,
+ CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS OF THE NATIVES--DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS,
+ ON HIS ROUTE TO NAGPORE,--ARRIVAL AT PONAMALEE, AND
+ DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME--HIS DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL AT
+ CUDDAPAH.
+
+
+After I had thoroughly recovered, through the interest of a young
+German widow, I obtained my acquittal from the ship, and then
+proceeded to New Town for my passport. New Town lies about two miles
+and a half E. N. E. of Cuddalore, and is the residence of the
+Europeans in that neighbourhood; the houses of the Europeans are
+generally built of brick and those of the natives of wood. The day
+after I had obtained my passport I proceeded on my route and arrived
+at Pondicherry the same evening.
+
+Pondicherry is about four leagues in extent; the houses are built with
+brick, but the Indians use only wood, in the manner which we call lath
+and plaster. In a few days after I arrived in Madras, and took up my
+residence with a friend in Pursevaulkum.
+
+A few days after my arrival I proceeded with my friend to town.
+Madras, or Fort St. George, is a fort and town of the peninsula, on
+the coast of Coromandel. It is the principal settlement of the English
+on the east side of the peninsula, and is a fortress of great extent,
+including within it a regular well-built city. It is close to the sea
+shore, from which it has a rich and beautiful appearance, the houses
+being covered with a stucco, called _chunam_, which, in itself, is as
+compact as the finest marble, bears as high a polish, and is equally
+as splendid as that elegant material. There is a second city, called
+Black Town, nearly four miles in circumference, separated from Madras
+by the breadth of a proper esplanade. Madras, in common with all the
+European settlements on this coast, has no port for shipping, the
+coast forming nearly a straight line, and being incommoded with a high
+and dangerous surf. The citadel is situated in the middle of the
+White, or English Town, and is one of the best fortresses in the
+British possessions. The town is also encompassed with a strong wall
+of the same stone as that with which the citadel is built, and is
+defended by bastions, batteries, half-moons, flankers, and mortars.
+Opposite the west gate of the citadel are barracks and a convenient
+hospital for the company's soldiers, and at the other end is a mint
+where the company coin gold and silver.
+
+I was shortly after engaged as an overseer in the Madras Advertiser
+printing office, and as an assistant to the Madras Nautical Academy;
+but not agreeing with my employer I left it, and obtained permission
+to stop in the country as a free merchant.
+
+Mr. M. R----, with whom I resided, used all his interest to obtain for
+me some permanent situation under government, but it could not be
+effected. At length, being tired of an indolent life, I opened a
+school, which succeeded very well, when I was forced to relinquish
+it, owing to my ill state of health the confinement and severity of
+the weather brought on a languishing complaint, which would have
+terminated in my death had I persisted in continuing in my present
+employment.
+
+My friend being obliged to quit Madras, left me and his brother in
+charge of his house. My friends, during his absence, greatly
+contributed to my amusement, and, in short, spared no expense. One
+morning, passing through Vessory Bazar, I was greatly shocked at
+seeing the nabob's elephant take up a little child in his trunk and
+dash its brains out against the ground; the only reason that could be
+observed was, that the child had thrown some pebble stones at it; and
+the only redress the poor disconsolate mother could obtain was a gift
+of fifty pagodas from the nabob, which is about equal to twenty pounds
+sterling.
+
+During my friend's absence his mother and brother were carried off
+with the cholera morbus. The general estimate of deaths through the
+settlement is at least three hundred and fifty in one day; the natives
+have been known to sacrifice in one day and at one pagoda, fifty cocks
+and fifty kids, to appease their angry gods, and, in fact, some of the
+poor deluded creatures will go with a sword run through their cheeks
+in the fleshy part, and kept hanging in that position for some days,
+continually dance backwards and forwards through the different bazars;
+others have the palms of their hands pierced with a sword; others have
+their breasts burnt, and others again have an instrument run through
+their tongue in order to calm the wrath of their offended deities; nor
+can they, in their opinions, put themselves to sufficient torture.
+
+Shortly after my friend returned, I went to reside with a friend at
+Royaporum, south of Black Town, and soon afterwards I was engaged as
+an examiner in the accountant-general's office. After I had been a
+short time in this employ, I received an order to prepare for my
+departure for Nagpore, in the service of his highness the Rajah. On my
+return from the Fort St. George, I was greatly surprised at seeing an
+old man standing with his bare feet upon two pieces of wood in the
+form of a pair of pattens, with pointed pegs uppermost; he stood in
+that position for several days, with the blood running in torrents,
+and several of those who passed by gave him what their circumstances
+could well afford. A few days after I was invited to witness an Hindoo
+ceremony. We took our station at the top of a rich Persian's house,
+opposite a spacious esplanade and contiguous to a large pagoda; in the
+centre of the esplanade was fixed a capstern, with a pole about sixty
+feet long, which was fixed so as to be occasionally raised or
+lowered. Shortly after our arrival, a native, decorated with flowers,
+proceeded slowly towards the pagoda with tom-toms, and all kinds of
+Asiatic music; after he had prostrated himself in the pagoda, the
+Brahmin, a kind of priest, struck his side with a leather thong till
+it swelled to a considerable size, and then forced a butcher's hook
+through his side; he then composedly walked to the machine, and
+suffered himself to be fastened to a rope and suspended in the air
+with no other support than the butcher's hook; he went at least three
+times round a circle of about one hundred feet, and he kept his arms
+continually in motion during the whole time, fencing and throwing
+flowers among the bye standers, which were immediately picked up by
+them and kept as a religious relic. This ceremony is performed yearly
+for the purpose of those who have lost their cast, and may regain it
+by voluntarily undergoing this treatment. Eleven of them went through
+this torturing ceremony.
+
+I now began to put myself in readiness for my departure. On the
+morning of the 8th I dispatched my baggage and tents, together with a
+guard of eight peons (native police), which my friends had obtained
+for me, through their interest with the superintendent of the police.
+By the time I had taken leave of all my friends, and thanked them for
+their disinterested protection to a distressed seaman, I proceeded on
+my route (after receiving several more marks of their favours, Mr.
+C---- having presented me with an Arab horse, four baggage bullocks,
+and five hundred rupees, besides several letters of introduction) at
+eight o'clock in the evening. I travelled about five miles down the
+Ponamalee Road, and stopped at a village a little below the main
+guard, a small place with scarcely any fodder for the cattle. On the
+following morning, at a very early hour, we proceeded on our march,
+and arrived at Ponamalee about eight o'clock, where I found several of
+my friends waiting to take leave, as they expected that Ponamalee
+would have been the first stage.
+
+After having taken farewell of each other they returned back to
+Madras, and I hired for the day a small bungalow (or garden house)
+opposite the fort, where I determined to stay. Ponamalee is about
+fourteen miles W. S. W. of Madras. This small and beautiful town is
+situated upon a rising ground, which commands an extensive view of the
+adjacent country. The number of Europeans residing here is but few, as
+it is entirely out of the road for traffic. There is a fort which is
+situated upon a rising ground, and gives the village a romantic
+appearance. It forms a complete square, and on each angle is a small
+place erected in form of the body of a wind-mill, which was used
+formerly for the purpose of solitary confinement when the troops were
+quartered here, but is now occupied as lumber rooms; the fort is
+garrisoned by pensioners. The grand entrance is on the south side,
+and a small wicket is usually on the west. The fort is surrounded by a
+large moat about thirty feet in depth, the water is very clear and
+good, and is drank by the natives. The inner part is far from being
+roomy, owing to the extreme width of the ramparts. There are two or
+three small buildings for the use of the commanding officers, but now
+the residence of a school-master and two sergeants; in the centre is a
+small building with a dome on the top, which was used formerly for a
+chapel, but is now converted into a school for the instruction of the
+poor soldiers' children, and the two barracks are occupied by
+pensioners.
+
+On the following morning, about two o'clock, we prepared for our
+journey, and in a few days arrived at Naggery, a distance of about two
+hundred miles W. N. W. of Madras. The natives here are Hindoos, and
+the village is remarkably clean. The pagoda, or place of worship, is a
+fine large building, built in an oblong form, and beautifully gilt and
+carved all round with monkeys and apes. The Hindoos, in their manner
+of diet, are very abstemious, refraining from flesh; in fact, they
+will not eat any animal food; they are very regular in their morning
+ablutions, which they do by washing and marking themselves with chunam
+in the centre of their foreheads, according to the mark of their
+different casts. If any one neglects it he is immediately turned out
+of the cast, and his relations disown him, nor will they permit him
+once to enter their house. Such is their strictness, that the father
+has refused to see his son and the mother her daughter; and if they
+happen to perceive him at any distance they fly from him as they would
+from a serpent, thinking that his touch would pollute them.
+
+The roads here are very bad, being principally jungle; their principal
+cultivation is paddy (a kind of oats). On my arrival at Nundihall I
+was determined to rest for a couple of days, as two of my servants
+were in a very ill state of health. Nundihall is a beautiful town, the
+houses are built of brick, and are generally from three to four
+stories high; the streets were very dirty, owing to the number of
+paddy fields that surround the city, as the growth of it requires that
+the earth should be completely covered with water. The natives are
+generally Hindoos and Moors. The town is surrounded by a high brick
+wall.
+
+After leaving the town of Nundihall the roads were very bad, owing to
+the quantity of stones, and hills which were very steep and difficult
+to ascend. On the roads I had several disputes with the natives
+passing through Wuntimuttall, owing to my servants and the peons
+stealing the toddy from the trees. Toddy is a liquor which is
+extracted from the top veins of the cocoa-nut trees, which runs
+continually into a pot placed for that purpose. The liquor is very
+pleasant, and is reckoned very wholesome when drank early in the
+morning in a small quantity; if drunk in the heat of the day it causes
+acidity in the bowels, and often is the cause of the death of many
+Europeans. The natives drink it continually, and often get quite
+intoxicated with it.
+
+We arrived at Cuddapah on the 21st instant; it is a large and
+commodious town, and is inhabited by Mussulmen. Cuddapah is situated
+N. W. of Madras, one hundred and fifty-one miles distant, and the
+general estimate of inhabitants is at about two hundred thousand. The
+principal houses are built of brick and the inferior ones of mud.
+
+The Mahometans divide their religion into two general parts, faith and
+practice, of which the first is divided into six distinct
+branches--belief in God, in his angels, in his scriptures, in his
+prophets, in the resurrection and final judgment, and lastly, in God's
+absolute decrees. The points relating to practice, are prayer with
+washings, &c., alms, fasting, pilgrimages, and circumcision.
+
+The Mahometans pray five times in twenty-four hours, viz.: in the
+morning before sun-rise, when noon is past and the sun begins to
+decline from the meridian, in the afternoon before sun-set, in the
+evening after sun-set and before day is closed, and again in the
+evening and before the watch of the night. They fast with great
+strictness during the whole month of Ramadan, from the time the new
+moon first appears, during which period they must abstain from eating,
+drinking, and all other indulgences, from day-break till night or
+sun-set.
+
+The Europeans reside about two miles to the west of the native town,
+and have commodious houses, with fine spacious gardens; they are built
+of brick and much after the form of a gentleman's seat in England, but
+on a larger scale. I proceeded to the house of the collector, and on
+my road, my horse taking fright, I was thrown, and lost my purse
+containing all my money. My distress was now indescribable. Being left
+pennyless in the midst of a people totally destitute of Christian
+feeling, and without the probable means of obtaining the common
+necessaries of life, I arrived, in this miserable state of mind,
+bordering on despair, at the collector's, Mr. Hanbury, and after
+making him acquainted with my circumstances, he generously rendered me
+his assistance, paid my servants' wages that were in arrear, and
+kindly advanced what I thought sufficient to defray my expenses,
+having previously sent my peons back to Madras, and supplied me with
+fresh ones to proceed with me to Hydrabad.
+
+On the following day the rain came down in torrents, accompanied with
+thunder and lightning, which kept me within my tent and caused me to
+exclaim with Dr. Henry, "O, ye lightnings, that brood and lie couchant
+in the sulphureous vapours, that glance with forked fury from the
+angry gloom, swifter and fiercer than the lion rushes from his den, or
+open with vast expansive sheets of flame, sublimely waved over the
+prostrate world, and fearfully lingering in the affrighted skies!" "Ye
+thunders, that awfully grumble in the distant clouds, seem to meditate
+indignation, and from the first essays of a far more frightful peal;
+or suddenly bursting over your heads, rend the vault above and shake
+the ground below with a hideous and horrid crack!" In the evening the
+weather began to clear up, which induced me to walk out, when taking
+two peons as a guard, I proceeded south of the town, on a beautiful
+plain: the pleasantness of the weather, and the stillness of the
+evening, tempted me to prolong my walk, and inspired my mind to
+contemplate on the wonderful works of Providence, who had so lately
+showered down his blessings upon me, in preserving me from want in the
+midst of a heathen world. The sun had almost finished his daily
+course, and sunk lower and lower till he seemed to hover on the verge
+of the sky!
+
+The globe is now half immured beneath the dusky earth; or, as the
+ancient poet speaks, "is shooting into the ocean, and sinks into the
+western sea." The whole face of the ground was overspread with shades,
+and what the painters of nature call "dun obscurity." Only a few
+superior eminences, tipt with streaming silver, the tops of groves and
+lofty towers that catch the last smiles of day, were still irradiated
+by the departing beams. But, O how transient is the destination--how
+momentary the gift! like all the blessings which mortals enjoy below,
+it is gone almost as soon as granted. How languishingly it trembled on
+the leafy spire, and glimmered with dying faintness on the mountain's
+sable brow! till it expired and resigned the world to the gradual
+approaches of night.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VII.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CUDDAPAH--DESCRIPTION OF THE
+ DIFFERENT VILLAGES, AND ARRIVAL AT HYDRABAD--DESCRIPTION OF
+ HYDRABAD, AND DEPARTURE THEREFROM--ARRIVAL AT NERMUL.
+
+
+On the morning of the 27th, I proceeded on my route over the chain
+hills, with which the town of Cuddapah is surrounded; the roads are
+very good, but the steepness of the hills made it very fatiguing: in
+six hours I arrived at Batoor, a distance of twelve miles. Batoor is a
+large village, the houses are built of mud and bamboo, and form a
+motley group; the only protection they have from the number of robbers
+which infest that part, is a small fort, about two hundred square
+feet; the ramparts are about fourteen feet in thickness, and at each
+angle a small gun is mounted upon a pivot, about three feet from its
+walls; the fort in general is very much out of repair; the inhabitants
+are Hindoos, and are very indolent; the land is quite barren and free
+from cultivation. The cruelty with which Europeans in general act
+towards these poor captives is really disgraceful, and cannot but be
+censured by all who cherish the least trait of humanity with their
+breast.
+
+When an European passes through any of the villages, and is in want of
+any coolies, or porters, to carry his baggage, he orders his guards to
+press every man he can meet with, and compel him to carry whatever his
+barbarous protector chooses he should labour under, and if there is
+not sufficient men, to press the women, without considering whether
+they have any family to provide for. It has been frequently known,
+that the mother has been forced to leave her infant babe from her
+breast upon the bare earth to provide for itself, to carry the baggage
+of a merciless enemy, whose only payment, after going fifteen or
+sixteen Indian miles, is, if she complains, a _bambooing_, (that is a
+caning,) and, perhaps, after she gets home, which cannot be till the
+next day, she finds her poor infant dead for want.
+
+We passed through Parmunsa, and arrived at Moorkandah, which is a
+small village, and in a very ruinous condition, as it is at the foot
+of the Ghaut; the inhabitants are but few in number, and are
+principally Brahmins, consequently provisions are very scarce; on my
+requesting the cutwall, or headman of the village, to bring some
+fowls, he refused, and said there were none in the place, although I
+repeatedly heard the crowing of a cock. The impudent manner in which
+the man answered me, made me doubt the truth of what he said; in order
+to ascertain it, I took two peons and my gun and went round the
+village, and found a full grown cock; I caught it, and ordered it to
+be carried to my tent and killed; the natives by this time were in
+arms, and before any of us were aware of it, they had secured the
+peons and surrounded me, demanding the cock: when they were informed
+of its death, they all began to weep and raised a most lamentable cry,
+and said it was devoted to their god, and that the heaviest curses
+would follow me. I expected their denunciations would have paid for
+it; but in that I was greatly mistaken, for they demanded payment for
+it; and to avoid any injury to my peons, I offered them one rupee,
+considering that it would be equal to the price of eighteen cocks; but
+they disdainfully refused it, and said that they must offer gifts to
+their god to appease his anger, and to pay their sadura to intercede
+in their behalf. I remonstrated with them; but to no avail, as they
+would not take less than ten rupees. I tried all in my power to make
+my escape from them; but when they perceived my intentions, they drew
+their scimitars, and held them to my breast, and said, provided I did
+not accede to their offer, they would not spare the lives of my peons
+nor myself, as they could not get it replaced for forty times that
+sum, which was presented to them by their rajah. The price I
+considered to be extortionate, (but I paid it,) as fowls are sold in
+the different villages round that neighbourhood for one penny each,
+sheep for ten-pence, and every other article in proportion.
+
+On the following morning, at a very early hour, I crossed the Ghaut;
+in the centre there is a very great declivity on each side the road,
+about two hundred feet in depth, and the Ghaut is very steep, and
+covered with flint-stone, which made it very difficult for the horse
+and cattle to pass: it is about twelve miles in length, and at the
+foot of it is the village of Badnapore. The inhabitants are very
+peaceable, and the village is close on the borders of Khristnah river.
+We made all possible haste to cross, which was effected by means of a
+large round basket, which is continually whirling round in the river.
+The river is about a quarter of a mile in width, but the heavy current
+carried us nearly two miles down; and owing to the exertions of the
+cattle, we encamped close on its banks. On the following day we passed
+Pungall-hill fort, which is situate on the summit of a very steep
+mount, and is built of mud, and large enough to contain ten thousand
+troops; it is only accessible on the north-east angle, which is easily
+blockaded in case of necessity. In five days we arrived at Hydrabad.
+
+Hydrabad lies about 350 miles north-west of Madras; the houses are
+built of brick, and generally run four and five stories high. The
+inhabitants are principally Mahometans interspersed with Hindoos.
+
+The Mahometans will not suffer a Christian to touch their cooking
+utensils or fuel by any means, and if such should be done, they
+consider them as polluted, and they will instantly break and destroy
+them; and while they are in the act of eating, if touched by any one
+of another sect, they will not swallow what is even in their mouth,
+but will throw it out, and go through a regular purification by
+washing and prayer.
+
+After I had been at Hydrabad a few days, I joined a small party to
+view the interior: while we were taking breakfast, a cavalcade of
+elephants came up to the door with a number of peons. After we had
+mounted them we proceeded through the south gate into the city; the
+streets were particularly dirty, owing to there being no drains. The
+town is supplied with water by a well about two hundred feet in
+circumference.
+
+On our entrance into the minister's house we were surprised at seeing
+a battalion of female sepoys (soldiers) presenting arms to us. We
+stood to see them go through their military manoeuvres, which they
+did with dexterity; we then proceeded towards the house, which is
+built entirely of cedar-wood, but in a very ordinary manner, owing to
+the number of apartments: every room is carved in a beautiful and
+masterly style, from the ceiling to the floor. This ornament is very
+common among the lower classes, who have the devices of their gods
+carved on the doors of their houses. The apartments form a complete
+square, and in the centre is a stone tank. We next proceeded to a
+gallery of looking-glasses; the only one worthy of notice is about
+eighteen feet long and sixteen wide; there is likewise a whole length
+painting of Earl Moira, Governor-General of India. We afterwards
+proceeded to the palace of the Rajah: on our entrance into the inner
+court, we were agreeably surprised at seeing a quantity of tea-cups,
+saucers, &c. of various colours, placed against the wall in form of
+elephants, tigers, serpents, &c. in the most superb manner; in the
+centre is a large tank, containing a great quantity of salmon-trout. I
+had the honour of being introduced to the Rajah's sons, but his
+Highness was not present.
+
+After having obtained a guard of twelve sepoys and two naigues, I
+proceeded on my route, and in a few days arrived at Nermul.
+
+Nermul is a large and beautiful city, surrounded by a fort, and is
+about three miles in circumference, and is on a rising ground, 205
+miles north-north-east of Hydrabad, and in the heart of the jungle,
+it is under the command of Major Woodhouse. The inhabitants are
+principally Moors.
+
+I pitched my tent in the middle of a burying-ground, by the side of a
+running stream, and owing to the fatigue I had experienced, I now
+resolved to sojourn for two days. This place suited my present state
+of mind.
+
+My attention was soon attracted by a magnificent tomb, and upon
+examining the inscription, it proved to be a rajah's. The gardens were
+ingeniously planned, and a thousand elegant decorations designed; but,
+alas! their intended possessor is gone down "to the place of sculls!"
+
+While I am recollecting, many, I question not, are experiencing the
+same tragical vicissitude. The eyes of the Sublime Being, who sits
+upon the circle of the earth, and views all its inhabitants with one
+incomprehensive glance, even now behold as many tents in affliction as
+overwhelmed the Egyptians in that fatal night when the destroying
+angel sheathed his arrows in all the pride of their strength; some
+sinking to the floor from their easy chair, and deaf even amidst the
+piercing shrieks of their distracted relations; some giving up the
+ghost as they retired, or lay reclined under the shady harbour to
+taste the sweets of the flowery scene; some as they sail with a party
+of pleasure along the silver stream and through the laughing meads!
+nor is the grim intruder terrified though wine and music flow around.
+
+"Those who received vast revenues, and called whole lordships their
+own, are reduced to half a dozen feet of earth, or confined in a few
+sheets of lead! Rooms of state and sumptuous furniture are resigned
+for no other ornament than the _shroud_, for no other apartment than
+the darksome _niche_! Where is the star that blazed upon the breast,
+or the glittered sceptre? The only remains of departed dignity are the
+weather-beaten hatchment. I see no splendid retinue surrounding this
+solitary dwelling. The princely equipage hovers no longer about their
+lifeless master, he has no other attendant than a dusty _statue_;
+which, while the regardless world is as gay as ever, the sculptor's
+hand has taught to weep."
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VIII.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM NERMUL AND ARRIVAL AT
+ NAGPORE--HIS DEPARTURE, AND ARRIVAL AT JAULNAH--THE AUTHOR'S
+ DEPARTURE FROM JAULNAH AND ARRIVAL AT POONAH, AND
+ DESCRIPTION OF THE VILLAGES WITH THEIR RELIGION--HIS ARRIVAL
+ AT BOMBAY, AND HIS DISTRESS--SKETCH OF BOMBAY AND ACCOUNT OF
+ THE PERSIAN RELIGION--HE JOINS THE HONOURABLE COMPANY'S SHIP
+ MARQUIS OF HUNTLY, AS CAPTAIN'S CLERK--HIS DEPARTURE FROM
+ BOMBAY AND ARRIVAL AT BENGAL.
+
+
+After remaining two days, I proceeded on my route; and on the
+following day arrived at Wadoor, a distance of fourteen miles, across
+a long succession of hills, the roads over which are very rugged and
+covered with stones; Wadoor lies in a valley, at the foot of a large
+mountain, and is hardly perceivable from the top.
+
+On the 20th December, we travelled along a beautiful and finely
+cultivated country, the produce of which is cholum and paddy, which
+grows in great quantities; the inhabitants are very civil, and
+principally Moor men. On the 25th December, 1821, I arrived at
+Nagpore, and on the same evening was seized with the Nagpore fever,
+which is always accompanied by fits of the ague. The fever is supposed
+to originate from the excessive heats of the day, and the extreme cold
+of the night.
+
+I endeavoured as much as possible that my ill state of health should
+not keep me from my employment, but attended to it very assiduously;
+which I persevered in till the 27th of March, when the doctor informed
+me, that I had better leave the Presidency or I should endanger my
+life, as the hot winds generally set in in the middle of April, which
+frequently prove very dangerous to European invalids.
+
+On the 2nd of April, after having previously obtained my passport and
+a guard of twelve Seapoys, I proceeded on my route, and towards
+evening arrived at Tukea, where, owing to my ill state of health, I
+was compelled to stop two days.
+
+On the 12th I arrived at Ouronty, which is S. W. by W. of Nagpore,
+about 100 miles. The town is very large, and is surrounded by a brick
+wall; the houses are built of brick, and are generally three stories
+high. The inhabitants are Mussulmen. In the afternoon I went to the
+palace of the Rajah, (Rajah ram.) His palace outside is very dirty,
+owing to his guard making fires against the walls for cooking. On my
+desiring to see the Rajah, I was conducted through a long dreary
+passage, with the walls, to all appearance, covered with grease and
+filth, at the end of which is a large court-yard, which has a very
+different appearance, the Rajah's apartments being all round; at the
+end were six Peons waiting to conduct me to his highness, with silver
+staves, about eleven feet long, with a device of Mahomet on the top;
+on my introduction to the Rajah's apartment, he was sitting
+cross-legged with his hooker; at my entrance he arose and made three
+salams in token of respect to the British nation. After questioning me
+where I was going to, and my reasons for so doing, he presented me
+with two camel-hair shawls, by placing them across my shoulder; then
+taking his leave.
+
+On the following day, I proceeded on my route, and on the 20th arrived
+at Luckenwarry; where there is good encampment and water, and the
+natives are principally Hindoos. Early on the following morning we
+began to cross the Luckenwarry Ghaut; the roads were steep and not
+above ten feet wide, and on each side a vacuity of about 250 feet
+deep. The light in the lantern being extinguished, and the moon being
+obscured, my horse, had it not been for the horse-keeper, would have
+precipitated me to the bottom; I instantly dismounted, and the
+horse-keeper led him till he was clear of the Ghaut. On the centre is
+a large gate, which stands about forty feet high, and which, during
+the war, had withstood a three months' siege.
+
+Passing through the jungle between the villages of Currone and
+Chickly, we were greatly surprised at seeing a large party on camels;
+we hailed them and enquired who they were, but we could not by any
+means obtain an answer; when finding they persisted in their
+obstinacy, the Naigues suspected them of belonging to the party of
+Sheik Dullah, a noted robber who had already committed many
+depredations in that neighbourhood, and on our desiring them to move
+to the left of us if they were friends, they made a sudden halt; the
+sepoys then drew up in a line, and the followers began to guard their
+baggage, but when they saw our number, they went off to the left of
+us, grumbling.
+
+On the 24th, we arrived at Jaulnah. It bears W. by S., of Nagpore,
+distant 180 miles. On the following day, after I had taken sufficient
+rest, I presented my passport to the Adjutant-General, and delivered
+up the guard, having previously obtained another. Jaulnah is a large
+town, surrounded by a brick wall, about twenty feet in height; the
+houses are generally of brick, and from three to four stories; the
+inhabitants are principally Hindoos, interspersed with Persians and
+Mussulmen. The cantonment is the head quarters of the British army on
+this side the Deccan.--Jaulnah has a civil and military government.
+
+After staying two days, I proceeded on my route, and on the 19th of
+May I arrived at Poonah. It bears S. S. E. of Bombay, and is in the
+territories of the Peishwa: it is about forty miles distant from
+Bombay. I took up my residence with a friend, commander of the
+Sebundaries; during my route, I passed through Armigabad, Amednagur,
+and Seroor; which is the residence of Europeans, and has detachments
+of different regiments quartered at each town: their houses are in
+general of brick and stone, their religion is Hindoo.
+
+The Hindoos are divided into four tribes, first the Brahmin; second,
+the Khatry; third, the Bhyse; fourth, the Sooders; all these have
+their distinct sects, and cannot intermingle with each other; but for
+some offences they are expelled their sects, which is the highest
+punishment they can suffer. In this manner a kind of fifth sect,
+called Pariah, is formed of the dregs of the people, who are employed
+only in the meanest capacity. There is a kind of division which
+pervades the four sects indiscriminately; which is taken from the
+worship of their gods VISHNOU and SHEEVAH; the worshippers of the
+former being named Vishnou bukht, and of the latter, Sheevah bukht.
+
+Of these four sects the Brahmins have the superiority, and all the
+laws show such a partiality towards them, as cannot but induce us to
+suppose that they have had the principal hand in framing them. They
+are not allowed the privilege of sovereignty; but are solely kept for
+the instruction of the people. They are alone allowed to read the Veda
+or Sacred Books. The Khatries or sect next in dignity, being only
+allowed to hear them read, while the other two read the Satras, or
+commentaries upon them; but the poor Chandalas are not allowed to
+enter their temple, or to be present at any religious ceremony.
+
+In point of precedence, the Brahmins claim a superiority even to
+princes, the latter being chosen of Khatry or second sect. In fact the
+Brahmin claims every privilege, and the inferior sects give place to
+him; the Hindoos are allowed to eat no flesh nor to shed blood. Their
+food is rice and dholl, and other vegetables, dressed with ghee (dholl
+is a kind of split pea, ghee, a kind of butter, melted and refined to
+make it capable of being kept a long time) and seasoned with ginger
+and other spices. The food which they most esteem is milk, as coming
+from the cow; an animal for which they have the most extravagant
+veneration, insomuch that it is enacted in the code of Gentoo laws,
+that any one who exacts labour from a bullock that is hungry or
+thirsty, or shall oblige him to labour when fatigued, is liable to be
+fined by the magistrates.
+
+The Hindoos are remarkable for their ingenuity in all kinds of
+handicraft; but their utensils are simple and in many respects
+inconvenient, so that incredible labour and patience are necessary,
+for the accomplishment of any work; and for this the Hindoos are
+remarkable. The religion of the Hindoos is contained in certain books,
+called Vedas; and, though now involved in superstition, seems to have
+been originally pure, inculcating the belief of an Eternal Being,
+possessed of every divine perfection. Their subordinate deities,
+Brahma, Vishnou, and Sheevah, are only representatives of the wisdom,
+goodness, and power of the supreme god Brahma; whom they call the
+principles of Truth, the spirit of Wisdom, and the Supreme Being; so
+that it is probable that all their idols were at first only designed
+to represent these attributes: they believe in ten Avators, or
+incarnation of the Deity, nine of which have taken place for the
+punishment of tyrants, or removing some great natural calamity; and
+the tenth is to take place at the dissolution of the universe. Several
+of the Avators inculcate the transmigration of souls, and the ninth of
+them, which forbids the sacrifices of animals, gave rise to the
+religion of Gauda Boodma, or Fo.
+
+Their deities are extremely numerous, and are generally supposed to
+have first originated in Italy and Greece.
+
+After stopping six days, I proceeded to Bombay, and on the 30th of May
+I arrived there. After delivering my passport, I made application for
+a ship for England, and was some time before I could get one; and the
+great expense I incurred in living at a tavern, made me entirely
+pennyless, so that I was forced to dispose of the shawls which I had
+presented me by the Rajah of Omrouty, and for which I received three
+hundred rupees each. But before I was finally settled, I had not above
+ten rupees left.
+
+Bombay is an island of Hindostan, on the west coast of the Deccan,
+seven miles in length, and about twenty-one miles in circumference;
+the ground is barren, and good water scarce; it was formerly
+considered very unhealthy, but by draining the swamps and bogs the air
+is much improved; the inhabitants are of several nations and very
+numerous, but are principally Persians.
+
+The religion of the Persians is, generally, Paganism, directed
+principally by the priests of magi, men of strict austere life,
+forbidding the use of either ornament or gold; making the ground their
+bed, and herbs their food. Their whole time is spent in offering to
+the gods the prayers and sacrifices of the people, as they only might
+be heard.
+
+The people are _Gentiles_; as to their religion, they worship the sun
+and moon, and various heavenly bodies, from whom they suppose they
+derive every blessing of light and warmth; and every morning they
+gather themselves round the beech and present their morning oblations,
+by pouring into the sea quantities of milk and odoriferous flowers,
+and prostrating themselves with their faces to the earth, as a mark of
+adoration to their rising deity (the sun.) Besides other gods which
+the Gentiles worship, they are great idolaters of fire, which they
+offer sacrifices to in time of peace, and carry it with them, as their
+tutelar deity in time of war. Their adoration is so great, that the
+first candle they see lighted, let it be in whose place it will, they
+immediately stop and repeat a prayer. In their habitation they never
+put it out after it is once lighted.
+
+Besides the town of Bombay, which is about a mile in length, with mean
+houses (a few only excepted), there is a capacious harbour or bay,
+reckoned the finest haven in the east, where all ships may find
+security from the inclemency of the different seasons. After remaining
+here for the space of three months, I was engaged as captain's clerk
+on board the Hon. Company's Ship Marquis of Huntly. We sailed from
+hence July 25, 1820, and arrived at the new anchorage in nineteen
+days' sail; soon after I went up to Calcutta on duty for the ship.
+
+Calcutta, or _Fort William_, the emporium of Bengal, and principal
+seat of India, is situated on the western side of the Hoogely river,
+at about ninety-six miles from its mouth, which is navigable up to the
+town for large ships. This extensive and beautiful town is supposed to
+contain between four and five hundred thousand inhabitants. The houses
+are variously built, some of brick, others of mud and cow-dung, and a
+great number with bamboos (a large kind of reed or cane) and mats. The
+bamboos are placed as stakes in the ground, and crossed with others in
+different ways, so as to enable them to make the matting fast, when
+for the roofing they lay them one upon the other, when a large family
+lie in that small compass of about six feet square, which makes a very
+motley appearance. The mixture of European and Asiatic manners
+observed in Calcutta is wonderful; coaches, phaetons, hackeries,
+two-wheeled carriages drawn by bullocks, palanquins carried by the
+natives, and the passing ceremonies of Hindoos, and the different
+appearance of the faquirs, form a diversified and curious appearance.
+The European houses have, many of them, the appearance of palaces or
+temples, and the inhabitants are very hospitable.
+
+After the cargo was sent on board I returned to the ship, but on our
+passage down the river we were compelled to lie out in the river,
+owing to the great boar, as it is called; it is a quick overflowing of
+the water, which rises in a great body and with such violence that it
+breaks down all before it. It arises from the narrowness of the river,
+and the force which it makes from the sea; in the course of two
+minutes it rises to the height of four or five feet.
+
+Lying in one of the creeks till the tide was turned, I was greatly
+alarmed by the men getting into the boat in great disorder and
+telling me that it was a crocodile which I had for a long time
+observed, and mistaken for the hull of a tree. A crocodile is an
+amphibious voracious animal, in shape resembling a lizard. It is
+covered with very hard scales, which cannot but with difficulty be
+pierced, except under the belly, where the skin is tender. It has a
+wide throat, with several rows of teeth, sharp and separated, which
+enter one another.
+
+On my arrival on board every thing was in confusion, as we expected to
+sail in a few days.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION IX.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CALCUTTA, AND ARRIVAL AT
+ CHINA--AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR RELIGION, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS,
+ AND OF HIS BEING ROBBED ON DANES' ISLAND--THE AUTHOR'S
+ DEPARTURE FROM CHINA AND ARRIVAL AT ANJURE POINT--THE
+ CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF THE MALAYS--DEPARTURE THEREFROM, AND
+ ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA--DESCRIPTION OF THE EMPEROR NAPOLEON'S
+ TOMB AND HOUSES--DEPARTURE FROM ST. HELENA, AND ARRIVAL IN
+ ENGLAND.
+
+
+We sailed from Bengal in company with the Hon. Company's Ship Dunira,
+October 19th, 1820, with a fine breeze, and arrived at Pulo Penang, or
+Prince of Wales's Island, on the 6th of November. The houses have a
+noble appearance, and are built after the form of those in Calcutta.
+The inhabitants are principally Malays; of them I shall speak more
+hereafter. After having received on board a quantity of rattan, as
+private trade for the captain, we made sail and arrived at Macao, on
+January 26th, 1821, after a long and tedious voyage.
+
+Macao, a town of China, in the province of Canton, is seated in an
+inland at the entrance of the river Tae. The Portuguese have been in
+possession of the town and harbour since the early part of the
+seventeenth century. The houses are low and built after the European
+manner; the Portuguese are properly a mixed breed, having been married
+to Asiatic women. Here is a Portuguese Governor as well as a Chinese
+Mandarin. The former nation pays a great tribute to choose their own
+magistrates. The city is defended by three forts, built upon
+eminences; and the works are good and well planted with artillery.
+
+On the 29th we anchored off the second bar, and found lying here the
+Hon. Company's Ship Canning, and two or three other Company's ships;
+on the 30th weighed and made sail, but there not being water enough,
+removed back to our old station. On the following day we crossed
+Whampo. After the cargo was discharged I went up to Canton.
+
+Canton is a large and populous city, situated in one of the first
+rivers in the empire. It is the capital of the province of Quan-tong,
+and the centre of the European trade in that country. The streets are
+long and straight, paved with flag stones, and adorned with lofty
+arches. The houses are remarkably neat, but consist only of one story,
+and they have no windows to the streets. The covered market place is
+full of shops. The inhabitants are estimated at about 1,000,000; many
+of whom reside in barks, which touch one another, form a kind of
+floating city, and are so arranged as to form streets. Each bark
+lodges a family and their grand children, who have no other dwelling.
+At break of day all the people who inhabit them depart to fish or to
+cultivate their rice.
+
+The frugal and laborious manner in which the great live, the little
+attention which is paid to the vain and ridiculous prejudice of
+marrying below rank; the ancient policy of giving distinction to men
+and not to families, by attaching nobility only to employments and
+talents, without suffering it to be hereditary; and the decorum
+observed in public, are admirable traits in the Chinese character.
+
+There is little distinction in the dress of men and women; rank and
+dignity are only distinguished by the ornaments they wear, and they
+dare not presume to wear any thing without proper authority, without
+being severely chastised for it. Their dress in general consists of a
+long vest, which reaches to the ground, one part of it, on the left
+side, folds over the other, and is fastened to the right by four or
+five small gold or silver buttons placed at a little distance from one
+another. The sleeves are wide towards the shoulder, and grow narrow
+towards the wrist--they terminate in the form of a horse-shoe--round
+their middle they wear a large girdle of silk, the ends of which hang
+down to their knees; from this girdle is suspended a sheath,
+containing a knife, and over all they wear a loose jacket down to the
+middle, with loose short sleeves, generally lined with fur, and under
+all they wear a kind of net to prevent it from chafing. The general
+colour of these dresses is black or blue.
+
+Their religion is idolatry, their principal idol is _Fong Chon_, and
+they are very superstitious, believing in magic and invocation of
+spirits, and the art of foretelling events by divination.
+
+While receiving our cargo on board, a Chinaman belonging to one of the
+craft, stole a box of tea, but, by the exertion of our officers, the
+culprit was taken and immediately sent on shore to Dane's Island to
+the mandarine. He was found guilty of the crime, and his punishment
+three dozen blows with the bastinado. The instrument of correction,
+called pan-tsee, is a bamboo a little flattened, broad at the bottom,
+and polished at the upper extremity, in order to manage it more easily
+with the hand.
+
+The culprit, after the mandarin has given the signal for punishment,
+is seized and stretched out with his belly flat on the ground, his
+breeches are pulled down to his heels, and on the mandarine throwing
+down a stick, of which he has a number by him, one of the officers in
+attendance uses the pan-tsee, and gives him five severe blows, which
+are succeeded by several others till the number is complete. When it
+is over, the criminal must throw himself on his knees, incline his
+body three times to the earth, and thank his judge for the trouble he
+has taken in his correction.
+
+The mandarins are of two classes, viz.; those of letters, and the
+inferior sort are styled mandarins of arms. The latter class do not
+enjoy the same consideration as the former.
+
+The Chinese in general are much addicted to commit depredations on the
+pockets, or, in fact, on any unguarded property. After all our cargo
+was received on board, I went in company with two midshipmen, Mr.
+C---- and Mr. R----, on Dane's Island. After we landed some Chinese
+came and decoyed us to their village, which was at the back of a
+number of hills and out of sight of the shipping, under a promise that
+they would let us have some of their country fruit, such as they sent
+us on board. The length of time that some of them were absent, and the
+sun going down fast, made us rather doubt the sincerity of their
+intentions; those that were with us begged that we would stop till the
+sun was down, but we began to be afraid of our lives. When the men saw
+that we were determined to wait no longer, they gave a dreadful whoop,
+which was answered by others stationed on the hills; they immediately
+seized hold of us and rifled our pockets.
+
+On March 25th we sailed down to Macao, and on the following day we
+took our departure, and on the 24th of April arrived at Anjier point,
+and is a settlement belonging to the Dutch; it lies to the east of
+Batavia. The houses are generally built of bamboo; the inhabitants are
+of various casts, Pagans, Mahometans, and Chinese. The barbarism of
+the Batta Tribes is horrible, for they kill and eat their criminals or
+prisoners of war, or even sacrifice their own relations when aged and
+infirm, not so much with a view to gratify their appetites, as to
+perform a pious ceremony. Thus, when a man becomes infirm and weary of
+the world, he is said to invite his own children to eat him when salt
+and limes are cheapest. He then ascends a tree, round which his
+friends and offspring assemble, and as they shake the tree they join
+in a funeral dirge, the import of which is, the season is come, the
+fruit is ripe, and it must descend. The victim descends, and those
+that are nearest deprive him of life, and devour his remains in a
+solemn banquet.
+
+In a few days we made sail. We arrived at St. Helena, on the 10th of
+July, 1821. This island is situated in the South Atlantic Ocean, its
+circumference is about twenty miles, and at a distance it has the
+appearance of a large rock rising out of the sea. On rounding the
+island it has a very romantic appearance; the town lying in a valley
+presents to the eye a beautiful chain of scenery. It has some very
+high mountains, particularly one called Diana's Peak, which is covered
+with wood to the very summit. There are other hills also, which bear a
+volcanic appearance, and some have huge rocks of lava, and a kind of
+half-vitrified flags. James Town is erected in a valley at the bottom
+of a bay, between two steep dreary mountains, and has from the
+shipping a noble appearance.
+
+Accommodations are tolerably good, and the inhabitants, generally
+speaking, are very hospitable. Their villas are pleasantly situated,
+and have a fine view of the sea; the whole face of the country is
+really romantic; the hills are immensely high, and the valleys very
+narrow; and in many of them there are a few houses, which give the
+whole island a very picturesque appearance.
+
+After obtaining a passport from the Adjutant-General, I went over a
+long succession of hills to see the habitations of the late Emperor
+Napoleon Bonaparte. The roads were very difficult to ascend, and
+particularly rugged. The remains of this great and illustrious
+personage are buried in a deep valley, about three miles from James
+town, and about two miles from his late residence at Longwood, under
+the peaceful shade of three weeping willows, and which also, (as in
+respect to his dust,) lend a solemn air of reverential darkness to the
+memorable _well_, from which, during his pilgrimages, he was wont to
+receive his refreshing draughts.
+
+No stately monument marks the spot; no polished alabaster, or the
+mimicry of sculptured marble marks his grave: the real excellency of
+the patriot is written on the minds of his countrymen; it will be
+remembered with applause as long as the nation subsists, without this
+artificial expedient to perpetuate it.
+
+Let the poor pass by his grave, and thankfully acknowledge, there lies
+the man who gloriously fought for his country and his subjects, to
+free them from the galling yoke of tyranny and oppression: no tablets
+are written to mark his actions, but those which are written in the
+heart of his subjects.
+
+The depth of his tomb is about twenty feet, and his coffin rests upon
+two pedestals, ten feet high. His body is enclosed in four coffins,
+first lead, second deal, third mahogany, and fourth marble. What is
+very remarkable is, that part of his tomb is made of the flag-stones
+of his new house, taken out of one of the kitchens. After viewing the
+tomb of the man who was the most brilliant meteor in the political
+world, I proceeded up to Longwood, to take a view of the habitation in
+which he died.
+
+After presenting my passport I had permission to inspect the premises:
+the officer took great pains in shewing me the very spot on which he
+quitted his troubles and persecutions, when he kindly left me to make
+what sort of reflections I thought proper. The darkness of the room
+gave it a very solemn appearance, and suited the mind to contemplate
+upon this late extraordinary character;--but a short period past he
+was the terror of the world, and now, alas! what is he? He is laid low
+in the tomb, unregretted and unpitied by his merciless enemies. A
+gleam of light through the casements reflected a dead glimmer through
+the gloomy mansion. The _most illustrious_ have claimed the _tomb_ for
+their last retreat; rooms of state are resigned! the sceptre has
+ceased to wield, and sumptuous banquets are neglected for no other
+ornament than the winding sheet! "Where is the star that blazed upon
+his breast, or the coronet that glittered round his temples?" Alas!
+they are resigned and given over, through the power of the tyrant hand
+of death.
+
+I have often walked between the impending promontory's craggy cliff; I
+have sometimes trod the vast spaces of the lonely desert, and
+penetrated the inmost recesses of the dreary cavern; but never beheld
+Nature lowering with so dreadful a form; never felt impressions of
+such awe striking cold on my heart, as under this roof; every thing
+seemed to participate in grief for their deceased lord. The rooms were
+very dirty and much neglected. The plants in his late garden seemed to
+droop their heads in sorrow for the loss of the hand that reared them.
+
+I next proceeded to the palace which had been sent from England, and
+really it would have reflected honour on the British nation, and no
+sovereign in the world need wish for a more magnificent one, had it
+been placed in a more healthy part of the island.
+
+We sailed for England on the 29th, and arrived on the 13th of
+September, 1821, after a speedy and pleasant passage.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to India; of a
+Shipwreck on board the Lady Castlereagh; and a Description of New South Wales, by W. B. Cramp
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+ The Project Gutenberg eBook of Narrative of a Voyage to India, by W. B. Cramp
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to India; of a
+Shipwreck on board the Lady Castlereagh; and a Description of New South Wales, by W. B. Cramp
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Voyage to India; of a Shipwreck on board the Lady Castlereagh; and a Description of New South Wales
+
+Author: W. B. Cramp
+
+Release Date: November 1, 2008 [EBook #27113]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGE TO INDIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sankar Viswanathan and The Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>NARRATIVE</h2>
+
+<h4>OF A</h4>
+
+<h1>VOYAGE TO INDIA;</h1>
+
+<h4>OF A</h4>
+
+<h2>SHIPWRECK</h2>
+
+<h3>ON BOARD THE LADY CASTLEREAGH;</h3>
+
+<h4>AND A</h4>
+
+<h2><i>DESCRIPTION OF NEW SOUTH WALES</i>.</h2>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h2>BY W. B. CRAMP.</h2>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>LONDON:</h3>
+
+<h3>PRINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS <span class="smcap">and</span> Co. BRIDE-COURT, BRIDGE-STREET.</h3>
+<h3>1823.</h3>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span></p>
+<h2>NARRATIVE</h2>
+
+<h4>OF A</h4>
+<h2>VOYAGE TO INDIA,</h2>
+<h4>&amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c.</h4>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SECTION I.</h2>
+
+<h4>THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND&mdash;DESCRIPTION OF THE
+CEREMONY ON CROSSING THE EQUINOCTIAL LINE, AND HIS ARRIVAL
+AT MADRAS.</h4>
+
+
+<p>On the 8th or 9th of January, 1815, we proceeded, in the Princess
+Charlotte, Indiaman, to North-fleet Hope, and received on board our
+cargo. On February 28th, we sailed to Gravesend, in company with the
+Company's ships Ceres, Lady Melville, Rose, and Medcalfe, and arrived
+at the Downs on the 3d of March. Our dispatches not being expected for
+some time, we moored ship. Our time passed on very pleasantly till the
+27th inst., when the weather became rather boisterous, and accompanied
+by a heavy swell. On the evening of the 28th, as the Hon. Company's
+ship Tarva, from Bengal, was rounding the Foreland, she struck on the
+Goodwin Sands, and was forced to cut away her masts to lighten her,
+and get her clear off. The Ceres drifted almost on board us; we
+slipped our cables, and with difficulty escaped the Goodwin Sands.</p>
+
+<p>On the 1st of April the pursers joined their respective ships, and on
+the 3d we made sail with a fair breeze, and soon cleared the English
+channel. Nothing was now heard but confusion; the pilot having just
+left the ship, the hoarse voice of the captain resounded through a
+speaking trumpet, while the seamen were busy in making sail. We had a
+fine steady breeze till we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> made the Bay of Biscay, when we had a
+strong gale for three days.</p>
+
+<p>After the hurry and bustle of the gale was over, we had a fine steady
+breeze; I then began to feel an inward pleasure, and to rejoice in the
+predilection I had imbibed from my earliest years.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived on the equinoctial about eight o'clock in the evening of
+the 19th of April, when one of the oldest seamen is deputed Neptune;
+when he went into the head and hailed the ship in the usual form,
+Ship, hoa! ship, hoa! what ship is that? The chief officer replied,
+The Hon. Company's ship Princess Charlotte of Wales, and that he would
+be glad of his company on the morrow. Gladly would I have dispensed
+with it. On his quitting the vessel, as is supposed, a pitch cask was
+thrown overboard on fire, which had the appearance of a boat till lost
+to view.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning, about nine <span class="smcap">a. m.</span>, Neptune hailed the ship again,
+when he was invited on board (from the head). On the fore-part of the
+gang-way and after-part of the long-boat, a boom was placed across,
+and a tarpauling was hung in form of a curtain, so that when they were
+in readiness they took it down, and the procession moved on towards
+the cuddy, twelve of the officers walking in the front, two by two
+with staves (broomsticks); next followed Neptune's car, (a grating
+with a chair covered with sheep skins) with Neptune, and his wife and
+child, (a recruit's child, as we had 250 on board, of his majesty's
+46th regiment) Neptune bearing in his hand the granes with forks
+uppermost, and the representation of a dolphin on the middle prong,
+and Neptune's footman riding behind (barber) his carriage, dragged by
+the constables. The captain and officers came out to meet him, and
+presented him with a glass of gin, which was on this occasion termed
+wine. After the captain's health was drank, he desired them to proceed
+to business, and to make as much haste as possible; they then
+proceeded to the starboard gang-way, and Neptune placed himself upon
+his throne (on the boom, close to the long-boat and wash-deck tub) the
+slush tub being filled with balls, and lather made of slush, and the
+barber standing ready to begin his work with a razor made of a long
+piece of iron hoop well notched; the engine was brought on the quarter
+deck, and began to play, to force those below that had not crossed the
+line. I had not been long below before an officer from Neptune came to
+me, and demanded me, in his name to appear before him at the starboard
+gang-way, whose summons must not be disobeyed. On my arrival at the
+gang-way, the usual questions were asked me, whether I had been that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>
+way before? Without waiting for an answer they placed me on the
+wash-deck tub, and the barber rubbed me with the back of his razor and
+then let me go, upon my previously having given an order upon my
+bottle.</p>
+
+<p>I had hardly got upon the poop, when one of the men was brought upon
+deck who was neither beloved by the men nor officers; they then placed
+him upon the tub, and asked him several questions, and while he was in
+the act of answering them, they thrust some black balls into his
+mouth, and then rubbed his face and neck over with lather, and scraped
+it in an unmerciful manner till the blood run in several places; they
+next pushed him into the tub of water and kept him under for the space
+of a minute, which tended to smart and inflame the wounds. It was at
+least a fortnight before he could wash himself perfectly clean; but
+now several more shared the same fate. The sun was setting fast before
+the amusements of the day were finished. The clouds presented the most
+beautiful appearance, and the rippling of the sea, together with the
+flying fish, scudding along the surface of the water, afforded the
+mariner a great field of thought. At so grand a display of the great
+and wonderful works of God, what mortal can be unmoved, or deny the
+existence of a <span class="smcap">being</span> which nature herself proclaims!</p>
+
+<p>The evening was very fine and beautifully star-light, and the moon
+shone with resplendent brightness. After the company had withdrawn to
+their evening refreshments, I amused myself with walking on the
+solitary poop. The sea appeared to be an immense plain, and presented
+a watery mirror to the skies. The infinite height above the firmament
+stretched its azure expanse, bespangled with unnumbered stars, and
+adorned with the moon '<i>walking in brightness</i>;' while the transparent
+surface both received and returned her silver image. Here, instead of
+being covered with sackcloth,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> she shone with resplendent lustre; or
+rather with a lustre multiplied in proportion to the number of
+beholders.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> I must be excused for the ideal extravagance of
+"clothing" this nocturnal luminary in "<span class="smcap">sackcloth</span>," on adverting to
+that unlimited flight of poetic imagination, which speaks of "<i>Heaven
+peeping through the blanket of the deep</i>." <i>Vide Shakspeare's
+Macbeth.</i></p></div>
+
+<p>Such I think is the effect of exemplary behaviour in persons of
+exalted rank; their course as it is nobly distinguished, so it will be
+happily influential; others will catch the diffusive rays, and be
+ambitious to resemble a pattern so commanding. Their amiable qualities
+will not terminate in themselves, but we shall see them reflected in
+their families.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span></p>
+<p>My readers, I trust, will not wonder at my meditations on these
+sublunary objects, when they consider that they are the seaman's
+guide, and from them the greatest sources of nautical information are
+derived.</p>
+
+<p>In the midst of these pleasing reveries, I was aroused by the ship
+being taken a-back, the watch being completely intoxicated, and it was
+only with difficulty that they could do their duty. Nothing material
+happened till our arrival at the Cape, when we experienced a severe
+gale for three days. The sea being heavy, she pitched her portals
+under water. We were running at the rate of ten knots per hour, under
+bare poles; and we soon after made the trade winds.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23d of June we arrived in Madras roads; from the deck the view
+of the land has a magnificent appearance; the different offices have,
+to the beholder, the appearance of stone, and they are formed along
+the beach in a beautiful manner; they are built with piazzas and
+verandahs, and they extend about one mile along a sandy beach, while
+the natives parading along the shore, and the surf spraying upon the
+beach, gave the scene a very picturesque appearance. The surf beats
+here with so much violence that it is impossible for any ship's boats
+to land without being dashed to pieces.</p>
+
+<p>On our making land we espied a small craft, called a kattamaran,
+making towards us; it was manned with two of the natives naked, except
+a handkerchief round their waist, and a straw round cap (turban) made
+with a partition in it to keep letters dry. This bark is made of three
+long hulls of trees, about ten or twelve feet in length, tied together
+with a rope so as to make in the centre a little hollow; they sit upon
+their knees in the centre, and have a long flat piece of wood, about
+five feet in length and five inches in width, which they hold in the
+centre, and keep continually in motion, first on one side and then on
+the other, and in that manner they force the kattamaran swiftly
+through the water.</p>
+
+<p>It is very remarkable that these poor creatures risk themselves
+through the surf for a mere trifle, to carry letters for the different
+commanders to their respective vessels, at a time when the surf is at
+a dreadful height. When these poor fellows lay themselves flat on the
+kattamaran, and then trust themselves to the mercy of the surf, they
+are often driven back with great force, and they as often venture
+again, till they effect their purpose. They generally get their living
+by fishing, which is done by hook and line, and they offer them
+alongside the different ships for sale.</p>
+
+<p>For two days the surf being so violent no boats could come off; but
+early on the third morning there were several came off<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> with debashees
+(merchants) on board. They brought such things as might be wanted by
+the ship's company and officers. Their boats are made to carry
+passengers and cargo. There is not a vestige of a nail to be seen in
+them, their seams, instead of being nailed, are sewed together with
+coir rope; and they are generally manned with six or eight men.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SECTION II.</h2>
+
+<h4>THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS AND ARRIVAL AT
+BENGAL&mdash;DEPARTURE THEREFROM&mdash;HIS VESSEL RUNS ASHORE ON THE
+PULICAT SHOALS, AND GETS SAFE AFLOAT AGAIN, AFTER BEATING
+SIX HOURS AND FORTY MINUTES&mdash;HIS SAFE ARRIVAL AT MADRAS, AND
+DESCRIPTION OF THE DIVERS&mdash;ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY&mdash;THE SHIP BEING
+DOCKED, THE AUTHOR IS SENT TO BUTCHER'S ISLAND WITH THE
+SHIP'S COMPANY&mdash;A DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF
+ELEPHANTA&mdash;HIS JOINING THE SHIP AFTER HER LEAVING THE
+DOCK&mdash;HIS WORDS WITH HIS COMMANDER, AND BEING TURNED BEFORE
+THE MAST IN CONSEQUENCE&mdash;HIS DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY, AND
+AFTER A SHORT PERIOD HE IS REPLACED IN HIS FORMER
+SITUATION&mdash;AND ARRIVES AT MADRAS.</h4>
+
+
+<p>We sailed from Madras, August 23d, and arrived at Bengal on the 30th.
+The scenery on the entrance up the river was indeed sublime, and
+inspired us with a sensation of gratitude to the Giver of all good. I
+went up to Calcutta with a craft of cargo; but having been sent down
+immediately, I could form no idea of the place.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th December we sailed from Bengal bound to Madras, in company
+with the Honourable Company's ship Marquis of Wellington. We kept
+a-head of her on the morning of the 25th, till she was almost mast
+down, and expected to bring-to about twelve o'clock in the Madras
+roads; but our expectations were greatly damped by the following
+circumstances:&mdash;At 8 A. M. the ship struck on the Pulicat rocks with
+such great violence, as to knock almost every man off his legs; the
+lead was immediately called, which, to the disgrace of some one, was
+not on deck; in the course of two minutes she struck again with as
+much violence as before; sail was immediately taken in, and after
+sounding, we found we drew about three and a half feet water. We then
+made signal of distress, by hoisting the ensign union downwards,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> and
+firing a gun. The Marquis of Wellington by this time hove in sight;
+all was confusion and consternation, the ship having beat several
+times with great violence. The Wellington hove to, and sent their
+cutter with four men and a second mate to our assistance, and then
+made sail and passed us, without rendering us any other assistance.
+The pinnace and long-boats, booms and spars, were immediately sent
+over the side, and the kedge-anchor was placed in the long-boat; but
+she leaked so very fast, that with all the united efforts of the
+seamen they could not keep her above water.</p>
+
+<p>The weather was now very cloudy and black, and threatened a severe
+gale; so that our present situation became very disagreeable, as no
+assistance could be rendered us off shore, should necessity require
+it. But owing to the exertions of the officers and men, we effectually
+swung her head to the wind, which was blowing strong from the shore,
+and by 7 P. M. we anchored safe in the roads.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning we were busily employed in discharging our
+cargo and sending it on board its destined ships, (Honourable
+Company's ships Stratham and Rose.) After our clearance, the divers
+were expected from off shore, to examine the damage the ship's bottom
+had received; but, owing to the inclemency of the weather, it was
+impossible for them to get off from shore.</p>
+
+<p>A seaman on board, by birth a West Indian, engaged to dive under the
+ship's bottom, and to acquaint us with the state of it, which was
+gladly accepted. In his youth he had been a fisherman on the coast of
+the island of Jamaica: the weather being rough, it was thought unsafe
+for him to venture; but on the following morning, it being quite calm,
+he prepared himself for his expedition: after he had jumped overboard,
+he walked, or rather trod water, round the ship; he informed us the
+copper was much battered above water, and in many places whole sheets
+of it were broken off; and after he had made us perfectly acquainted
+with the damages we had received above, he dived under her counter,
+and abreast of the after, main, and fore hatchways;&mdash;when he came on
+board, he informed us, that about twelve feet of our false-keel was
+knocked off, and about six feet of our copper abreast of the
+main-hatchway, besides a quantity of copper in different places, all
+of which we found to be true after we were docked.</p>
+
+<p>We received considerable damage on board; the bolts were started from
+her side about three inches, and the main-beams sprung. Three days
+after he had dived, the captain came on board with two native divers,
+and several officers of the different vessels lying in the roads, to
+survey the ship.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span> When they went under they brought up the same
+account as our man had first given. After about an hour's
+consultation, our ship was ordered to Bombay to be docked, it being
+the most convenient one for a ship of our burden. In a few days after
+we proceeded on our passage, and arrived in safety, keeping the pumps
+in continual motion during our passage.</p>
+
+<p>The Island of Bombay is situated on the west coast of the ocean, and
+one of the three Presidencies belonging to the Honourable East India
+Company, and is in Lat. 18&deg; 55' N. and Lon. 72&deg; 54' E. of Greenwich.
+As soon as we had discharged all our cargo, and the ship was docked,
+the ship's company and officers were sent to Butcher's Island.</p>
+
+<p>Butcher's Island is a small island situated about four miles and a
+half to the westward of Bombay, and is in circumference about one mile
+and a half, and has been a very formidable garrison. In the centre is
+a small fort and two barracks, the latter we took possession of for
+the ship's company. Soon after our landing on the island, a party of
+us went over to the Island of Elephanta.</p>
+
+<p>The Island of <i>Elephanta</i> is about one mile and a half to the west of
+Butcher's Island, and is inhabited by 100 poor Indian families. It
+contains one of the most stupendous antiquities in the world: the
+figure of an elephant of the natural size, cut coarsely in black
+stone, appears in an open plain, near the landing place, from which an
+easy slope leads to an immense subterraneous cavern, hewn out of the
+solid rock, eighty or ninety feet long and forty broad, the roof of
+which is cut flat, and supported by regular rows of pillars, about ten
+feet high, with capitals resembling round cushions, and at the farther
+end of it are three gigantic figures, mutilated by the bigoted zeal of
+the Portuguese, when this island was in their possession. After
+spending the day very pleasantly we returned.</p>
+
+<p>The Sergeant (an old invalid) who had charge of the fort, had a
+beautiful little garden; thither in the morning I frequently resorted,
+to enjoy one of the most charming pieces of morning scenery that I had
+ever witnessed.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Awake! the morning shines, and the fresh fields<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Call you; ye lose the prime to mark how spring<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The tender plants; how blows the citron grove;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">What drops the myrrh, and what the balmy reed;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">How nature paints her colours; how the bee<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sits on the bloom, extracting liquid sweets."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p><span class="smcap f1">Milton's Paradise Lost.</span></p>
+
+<p>How delightful this fragrance. It is distributed in the nicest<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>
+proportion; neither so strong as to depress the organs, nor so faint
+as to elude them. We are soon cloyed at a sumptuous banquet, but this
+pleasure never loses its poignancy, never palls the appetite; here
+luxury itself is innocent; or rather, in this case, indulgence is not
+capable of excess. Our amusements for the forenoon were our nautical
+studies, and in the afternoon officers and men joined in cricket. In
+the evening, after my duty of the day was dispatched, and the sultry
+heats were abated, I enjoyed the recreation of a walk in one of the
+finest recesses of the Island, and in one of the pleasantest evenings
+which the season produced.</p>
+
+<p>The trees uniting their branches over my head, formed a verdant
+canopy, and cast a most refreshing shade; under my feet lay a carpet
+of Nature's velvet; grass intermingled with moss, and embroidered with
+the evening dew; jessamines, united with woodbines, twined around the
+trees, displaying their artless beauties to the eye, and diffusing
+their delicious sweets through the air. On either side, the boughs
+rounding into a set of regular arches, opened a view into the distant
+seas, and presented a prospect of the convex heavens. The little birds
+all joyous and grateful for the favours of the light, were paying
+their acknowledgments in a tribute of harmony, and soothing themselves
+to rest with songs. All these beauties of Nature were for a while
+withdrawn. The stars served to alleviate the frown of night, rather
+than to recover the objects from their obscurity. A faint ray scarcely
+reflected, and only gave the straining eye a very imperfect glimpse.</p>
+
+<p>The day following that the ship came out of dock we joined her. Our
+labours were now unremitted, to get her in readiness for sea. Amidst
+all our exertions it was impossible to give any satisfaction; our
+chief mate was very arbitrary, and vented his spleen upon the
+defenceless midshipmen, besides making the backs of the poor seamen
+sore with <i>starting</i>. Starting is a term used for rope's-ending a man,
+or otherwise laying a <i>Point</i> severely across their shoulders till
+they have not the strength to wield it any longer; a point is a flat
+platted rope, made for the purpose of taking in reefs, or otherwise to
+fasten the sail upon the yards.</p>
+
+<p>At length my life became so truly miserable, that I was determined in
+my own mind not to endure it, if there was any possibility of avoiding
+it. For that purpose I wrote on board his Majesty's frigate,
+Revolutionnaire, for a situation, when Captain Wolcombe generously
+offered me one, provided I could get permission of Captain Craig to
+leave my present ship. I<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span> was at length forced to leave Bombay,
+through this and other circumstances.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival at Madras every preparation was made for receiving our
+cargo on board, which was speedily done, and in a short time was ready
+for sea.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SECTION III.</h2>
+
+<h4>THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS, DESCRIPTION OF A
+WATER-SPOUT&mdash;HIS ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA AND DEPARTURE
+THEREFROM, ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND&mdash;JOINS HIS MAJESTY'S TRANSPORT
+SHIP, TOTTENHAM, BOUND FOR NEW SOUTH WALES&mdash;HER RUNNING ON
+SHORE IN THE RIVER AND PUTTING BACK TO DOCK&mdash;HE AFTERWARDS
+JOINS HIS MAJESTY'S TRANSPORT SHIP, LADY CASTLEREAGH. HIS
+DEPARTURE FROM DEPTFORD AND ARRIVAL AT PORTSMOUTH&mdash;HIS
+DEPARTURE THEREFROM AND ARRIVAL AT NEW SOUTH WALES.</h4>
+
+<p>As soon as our dispatches were in readiness, we proceeded on our
+passage for England; the morning was beautiful, and as the men were
+heaving up the anchor, my heart felt an inward sensation of joy and
+gratitude to our Creator, that he had been pleased to bring us so far
+safe on our voyage; we made sail with a steady breeze, and soon lost
+sight of land. After we had been at sea about two days, close on our
+weather-bow we observed a water-spout; when we first saw it, it was
+whole and entire, and was in shape like a speaking trumpet, the small
+end downwards, and reaching to the sea, and the large end terminating
+in a black thick cloud: the spout itself was very black, and the more
+so the higher up; it seemed to be exactly perpendicular to the
+horizon, and its sides perfectly smooth, without the least ruggedness
+where it fell. The spray of the sea rose to a considerable height,
+which had somewhat the appearance of smoke; from the first time we saw
+it, it continued whole about a minute, and till it was quite
+dissipated three minutes; it began to waste from below, and gradually
+up, while the upper part remained entire, without any visible
+alteration, till at last it ended in black clouds, upon which a heavy
+rain fell in the neighbourhood. There was but little wind, and the sky
+was otherwise serene.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On our rounding the Cape we experienced a very heavy gale, which
+continued for the space of ten days. We arrived at St. Helena in about
+ten days after clearing the Cape of Good Hope.</p>
+
+<p>The approach to this Island is tremendous, it being an immense large
+rock in the midst of the sea, on which there is not the least
+appearance of verdure, houses, or indeed any sign of inhabitants, till
+you arrive at the anchorage, which is to leeward of the Island; and in
+turning round the corner of the rock is a fort, close to the water's
+edge, from whence they make all ship's heave to, till they have sent a
+boat on board from the Admiral; and in case no attention is paid to
+their signal, they fire a shot. After proceeding a little way, the
+town is discovered in the midst of a valley, and has a very
+picturesque appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The produce of the Island is potatoes and yams. The yams are used in
+time of great scarcity of wheat, for bread; the inhabitants are under
+the necessity of boiling them 12 hours and baking them, before they
+can eat them; and in fact, many of the Islanders prefer them to bread.
+The coast produces an amazing quantity of fish, particularly mackarel,
+which are in great abundance, and run in shoals about six fathom under
+water. At this time Napoleon resided at Longwood.</p>
+
+<p>After staying here 12 days, we proceeded on our passage to England,
+and arrived there in six weeks and two days.&mdash;The distressed state of
+England, and scarcity of employment determined me again to try my
+fortune abroad, and for that purpose I made several applications to
+the different owners, but for some time was very unsuccessful. At
+length I was engaged by Messrs. Robinson, to join his Majesty's Ship
+Tottenham, bound to New South Wales with 200 convicts. On June the 8th
+I joined her. After receiving all the ship's and government stores on
+board, we proceeded to Woolwich, and received on board 50 of our
+number, and in the afternoon of the same day we made sail, and on a
+sudden struck on a reef at low water; we were lying high and dry;
+every means was used to get her off, but without success, till we sent
+our convicts up to the hulks, and discharged our stores into the
+different crafts sent for that purpose, and by that means lightened
+her so, that at the flood she drifted; she was so materially damaged,
+it was deemed necessary she should return back to Deptford to Dock.</p>
+
+<p>I had not waited long in London, before another vacancy occurred on
+board His Majesty's Transport Ship Lady Castlereagh, lying at
+Deptford, bound to the same Port. Shortly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span> after I had joined her, we
+sailed to Woolwich, and received on board our guard, which was
+composed of a detachment of his Majesty's 46th regiment of foot, and
+after receiving a portion of our convicts, we proceeded on our passage
+to Portsmouth: we received another portion from Sheerness, and in two
+days arrived at Portsmouth. The remainder of our prisoners not being
+in readiness, we were forced to bring up and moor ship a cable each
+way.</p>
+
+<p>Spithead is a spacious road for shipping, between Portsmouth and the
+Isle of Wight, and where they in general lie after they are in
+readiness for sea. I went on shore to see the town of Portsmouth. It
+is situated inland of Portsea; the streets are generally narrow, and
+rather dirty, owing to their not being properly paved.</p>
+
+<p>The Dock-yards, as there are several, resemble distinct towns, and are
+under a government separate from the garrison. Here is a commodious
+arsenal for laying up cannon, and the fortress may be justly
+considered as the most regular one in Great Britain. The number of men
+employed in the different rope-yards generally is considered to be
+between eight or nine hundred, and the garrison is very large. The
+town of Portsmouth contains about 40,000 inhabitants, and the harbour
+is reckoned one of the finest in the world, as there is water
+sufficient for the largest ships, and is so very capacious that the
+whole of the British navy may ride in safety. The principal branch run
+up to Fareham, a second to Pouchester and a third to Portsea Bridge;
+besides these channels there are several rithes, or channels, where
+the small men of war lie at their moorings. Opposite the town is the
+spacious road of Spithead. On the 20th of December we received our
+convicts, and the following day we made sail and passed through the
+Needles, which are two sharp-pointed rocks at the N. W. end of the
+Isle of Wight, so called from their sharp extremities.</p>
+
+<p>The prisoners, during their voyage, behaved themselves with great
+propriety, considering the variety of characters which we had on
+board. We arrived at New South Wales on the 26th of April, 1818, after
+a pleasant passage.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span></p>
+<h2>SECTION IV.</h2>
+
+<h4>DESCRIPTION OF NEW SOUTH WALES&mdash;DEPARTURE THEREFROM&mdash;ARRIVAL
+AT VAN DIEMAN'S LAND.</h4>
+
+<p>We now made for the eastern coast of New Holland, southward of Port
+Jackson; the coast has a most beautiful appearance, being constantly
+green during the year. From the south cape, about five leagues to the
+northward, is a most spacious bay with good anchorage, and sheltered
+from all winds. The natives are very ferocious; few vessels put in
+without partially suffering by their depredations, particularly seamen
+who, having ventured from their parties, have been by them cut off,
+robbed, and murdered. This place is called Two-fold Bay; ten leagues
+farther north is Bateman's Bay. Here is good anchorage and plenty of
+fresh water, but it lies open to the E. N. E. winds, and when they
+prevail they are accompanied by a heavy swell, so that it is
+impossible for vessels to lie secure. Seventeen leagues farther north
+is Jervis's Bay, and an excellent harbour and good shelter from all
+winds, with a fine sandy bottom. Round two small islands, at the mouth
+of the bay, there are two very large kinds of fish, which are caught
+in abundance with hook and line, called king fish and snappers.</p>
+
+<p>The next harbour to the northward is Botany Bay, which is a capacious
+bay, with excellent anchorage for shipping; but the entrance is very
+dangerous to those commanders who are strangers to the coast. At the
+head of the bay is George's River, which extends about sixty miles up
+the country, and is navigable for small vessels of about 40 tons
+burden; on the banks of this river there are several settlements,
+which I shall hereafter describe. Nine miles farther north are the
+heads of Port Jackson; on approaching the heads from sea, the entrance
+is so narrow, and the rocks so perpendicular, that the opening is not
+perceivable at a distance.</p>
+
+<p>On the south head is a look-out house, and a flag staff, on which a
+yellow flag is hoisted on the approach of any vessels from sea, which
+is answered by another signal staff on a battery at the north end of
+the town, called Davis's Point Battery,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> which is to be seen from all
+parts of the town, so that a vessel is known to be approaching before
+she enters the port. After entering the heads, the river runs due
+south for six miles, it then turns short round a point of land on the
+north shore, called Bradley's Head, which runs due west for
+twenty-four miles. After rounding Bradley's Head, the town of Sydney
+is perceivable, about three miles distant on the south shore. The
+anchorage is a small cove, as still as a mill-pond, land-locked around
+on all sides; the principal buildings in view are the stores and
+dwelling of Mr. Campbell, a Bengal merchant; they are built of white
+stone and have a noble appearance: the next is the government stores,
+a large stone building, at the end of which is the hospital, wharf,
+and stairs, the only public-landing place in the cove; here are two
+centinels continually parading the quay. From the landing place is a
+fine wide street, called George Street, with several fine stone and
+brick buildings, extending a mile and a half long, and joining the
+race ground. The public buildings in this line are the governor's
+secretary's office, an orphan school for female children, and the
+military barracks, with many fine private buildings, shops, &amp;c. On the
+S. E. side of the cove is the government house, a low but very
+extensive building, surrounded with verandahs, and built in the
+eastern style, with an extensive park and garden surrounded with a
+high stone wall. About a quarter of a mile south of the government
+house is the general hospital, a large and extensive building, erected
+without any expense to government, the whole having been completed and
+paid for by three private gentlemen of the colony, for the grant of
+certain privileges. One mile further S. E. is Wallamolla, a fine brick
+and stone mansion, the property and dwelling house of John Palmer,
+Esq., formerly Commandant-general of the colony.</p>
+
+<p>Between the general hospital and Wallamolla is the race ground, a fine
+level course three miles long, planned and laid out after the model of
+Doncaster race course, by order of his excellency Lochlin Macquarie.
+The races commence on the 12th of August, and last three days, during
+which time the convicts are exempt from all government duties.
+Convicts that are placed in the town of Sydney are in many respects
+happier than those farther inland; those who are employed in the
+service of government are under the inspection of the superintendent
+of the public works; they assemble at the ringing of a bell, in the
+government-yard, soon after day-light, and are mustered by their
+respective overseers and conducted to their work by them, having
+received their orders from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span> superintendent on the preceding
+evening. The overseers are themselves convicts of good character, and
+perfect masters of their different trades. They labour from day-light
+until nine o'clock, and they have then one hour allowed them to
+breakfast, then they return and work till three in the afternoon, and
+from that time they are at liberty to work for whom they think proper.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Sydney, the next settlement is Rose Hill, or, called by the
+natives, Paramatta, and it is situated due west up the river. Between
+Sydney and Paramatta there is but one settlement, about half way,
+which is called Kissing Point, and close on its banks is a large farm,
+kept by Mr. Squires, who likewise carries on an extensive brewery. The
+principal edifice at Paramatta is the government stores, a large stone
+building; close to the landing-place, and leading into the town, is a
+street about a mile long. They are generally small cottages, and are
+mostly inhabited by the convicts; and to each is attached a small
+garden, which they are compelled to keep in good order.</p>
+
+<p>There is also a large manufactory of flax, the produce of the country,
+of which they make coarse cloth of different descriptions. This town
+is under the direction of the bishop of New South Wales (Samuel
+Marsden) and is the place where the noted George Barrington resided
+many years as chief constable, and died in the year 1806, highly
+respected by the principal men of the colony. At eight miles distance,
+in a westerly direction, is the village of Galba, which is a very
+fertile soil, the farms being in high cultivation, the ground clear of
+timber, and numbers of sheep and oxen seen grazing in its fields. Two
+miles south of Galba is the village of Castle Hills, in appearance
+resembling Galba; and a number of farm houses scattered about as far
+as the eye can reach. About fourteen miles, in a S. E. direction, is
+the town of Liverpool, on the banks of George's River; here
+cultivation is making rapid progress; and on each side of the river
+are numerous farms, till the traveller arrives at its termination.
+From George's River a branch runs in a N. W. direction, is about
+twenty miles in length, and is called the Nepean River. Here the eye
+of the agriculturist would be highly delighted at the verdure that
+constantly appears in view; the farms are but thinly dispersed, as the
+Nepean is not navigable.</p>
+
+<p>At the extremity of the Nepean is the most extensive tract of land
+that has yet been discovered. This tract is laid out in pastures,
+which are literally covered with wild cattle, the produce of six cows
+and a bull which escaped from the colony about forty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> years ago. They
+were discovered by a runaway convict, who returned to the settlement
+and reported his discovery, for which they pardoned him his crime of
+desertion. After leaving the cow pastures, due north is the town of
+Windsor, the most productive place in the colony for grain of every
+description, which is brought to be shipped on the River Hawksborough,
+in small crafts for that purpose. Windsor is sixty miles from Sydney,
+and the river is navigable all the way from the sea; its entrance is
+called Broken Bay, and is fourteen miles north of Port Jackson, and
+thirty miles north of Broken Bay.</p>
+
+<p>The town of Newcastle is situated about seven miles up the river,
+called the Coal River, in consequence of coals being found there in
+great abundance, of very good quality. This town is a place where all
+are sent to that prove refractory, or commit any crimes or
+misdemeanors in the colony, and is much dreaded by the convicts as a
+place of punishment.</p>
+
+<p>Newcastle is the last settlement to the northward of Sydney; the
+natives are black, and appear to be a most miserable race of people:
+they live entirely naked, both men, women, and children, and they
+possess not the least shame. They carry fish and game to the different
+towns and villages inhabited by the English, which they barter for
+bread, tobacco, or spirits; they are, in general, of a light make,
+straight limbed, with curly black hair, and their face, arms, legs,
+and backs are usually besmeared with white chalk and red ochre. The
+cartilage of their nose is perforated, and a piece of reed, from eight
+to ten inches long, thrust through it, which seamen whimsically term
+their spritsail-yard. They seem to have no kind of religion; they bury
+their dead under ground, and they live in distinct clans, by the terms
+Gull, Taury Gull, or Uroga Gull, &amp;c. They are very expert with their
+implements of war, which are spears made of reed, pointed with crystal
+or fish bone; they have a short club made of iron wood, called a
+waday, and a scimeter made of the same wood. Those inhabiting the
+coast have canoes; but the largest I ever saw would not hold more than
+two men with safety.</p>
+
+<p>Their marriage ceremony is truly romantic; all the youth of a clan
+assemble, and are each armed with wadays; they then surround the young
+woman, and one seizes her by the arm, he is immediately attacked by
+another, and so on till he finds no combatant on the field, and then
+the conquering hero takes her to his arms.</p>
+
+<p>The different kinds of game which the colony produces, are several
+kinds of kangaroos, of the same species, but differing in size and
+colour. Beasts of prey have never been seen in the colony. The birds
+are, parrots, cockatoos, and a large one<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> called <i>emus</i>, which have
+very long legs and scarcely any wings; they in general live upon fern,
+and weigh from seventy to eighty pounds; there are likewise a number
+of black swans. The woods abound with a number of dangerous reptiles,
+such as centipedes and scorpions.</p>
+
+<p>Government not being disposed to receive all our convicts, we were
+taken up to proceed to Van Diemen's Land, with a crew of two hundred
+convicts, besides a detachment of one hundred and sixty rank and file
+of his Majesty's 46th regiment of foot. We sailed from hence, and
+arrived at Van Diemen's Land after a pleasant passage of six days.</p>
+
+<p>Van Diemen's Land is situated south of the Cape of New Holland, and is
+a dependency under the control of the Governor-General. Here is a
+Deputy-Governor, who resides at the principal town, called Hobart's
+Town, situated about thirty miles up the Derwent; it is a town at
+present consisting of small cottages, or huts, built of wood, and with
+but few free inhabitants. The soil of the country is good; but there
+is a very inconsiderable trade. The Derwent runs ninety miles due west
+up the country. North of the Derwent, about twenty miles, is Frederick
+Henry's Bay, an immense deep bay, with good anchorage and shelter for
+shipping; and north-west of Henry's Bay is another fine river, called
+Port Dalrymple; it runs south-west ninety miles inland; at the head of
+it is a town, called Launceston; the inhabitants are principally
+convicts, and are employed in clearing the land for government. The
+native inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land are nearly the same as those
+of New Holland; and they at present hold no intercourse with the
+European inhabitants. After our prisoners were received on shore, they
+sent us another detachment of 150 rank and file of his Majesty's 46th
+regiment for Madras, and we began to prepare for sea.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span></p>
+<h2>SECTION V.</h2>
+
+<h4>DEPARTURE FROM VAN DIEMEN'S LAND AND ARRIVAL AT MADRAS&mdash;AN
+ACCOUNT OF A SEVERE GALE, AND THE GREAT DANGER OF SHIPWRECK,
+TOGETHER WITH HER WONDERFUL ESCAPE FROM IT, AND HER SAFE
+ARRIVAL IN CUDDALORE.</h4>
+
+<p>The morning was beautiful, and the noise of the crew weighing the
+anchor, created much life and bustle; and as we proceeded out of the
+harbour Nature seemed to smile, and bid us welcome to the watery
+element we had been so long traversing. A few days after, we entered
+the Endeavour Straits, which are about ten leagues long and five
+broad. We had several canoes off from the shore of New Guinea. It is a
+long narrow island of the South Pacific Ocean, and north of New
+Holland, from which it is separated by this strait, except on the
+north-east entrance, where it is counteracted by a group of islands,
+called the Prince of Wales's Islands. The land is generally low, and
+covered with an astonishing luxuriance of wood and herbage. The
+inhabitants resemble those of New Holland, omitting the quantity of
+grease and red-ochre with which the New Hollanders besmear their
+skins.</p>
+
+<p>Their canoes are neatly carved, and are about twelve feet in length;
+they have outriggers to keep them firm on the water, and they are
+formed out of the hulls of trees; they carry about five or six men.
+They brought on board a quantity of shells, bows, arrows, and clubs,
+besides other trifling articles, and they would exchange with us for
+bits of old iron-hoops, or in fact any old thing, however trifling.
+The breeze freshening, we soon lost sight of the native merchants.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Madras on the 12th of September, 1818, after a tedious
+passage. Owing to General Munro's intended departure for England, our
+cargo was immediately got ready, and as expeditiously received by us,
+and we were ready for sea on the 20th of October; but our dispatches
+not being in readiness, we were forced to remain at our anchorage, and
+on the morning of the 24th the clouds looked very black, and
+threatened a severe storm; but no preparations were made on board, and
+at 4 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span> signal was made from the shore for all ships to leave the
+roads, which unfortunately was not noticed by many of the officers of
+the different vessels. At 5 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span> the gale commenced; but through
+neglect the royal and top-gallant yards were not sent down, nor could
+the officer commanding be persuaded that any danger would arise<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> from
+remaining at our anchorage; the ship's company now came aft and
+expostulated; but the officer in command called them all cowards, and
+said he would not start her anchor if it blew the masts out of her.</p>
+
+<p>About 2 <span class="smcap">a. m.</span> on the 25th, the gale commenced with the utmost fury,
+and she rode her scuttles under water, but as they were not secure,
+the sea came inboard and made very fast upon us. At 6 <span class="smcap">a. m.</span> the water
+was three feet on the lee-side of our gun-deck, and from the continual
+working of the ship the chests broke from their fastenings.</p>
+
+<p>After seeing a vessel go down at her anchors close on our starboard
+bow, the officer then gave orders for our cable to be slipped, which
+was immediately put into execution. John Gardener, a seaman, wishing
+to go aloft, and not taking proper hold, was blown from the rigging,
+and never seen again. We set the fore-sail, which immediately split;
+the mainsail, met with the same fate; the gaskets of the topsails gave
+way, and the sails split. At half past eight we found we had sprung a
+leak, owing to the ship's labouring so much; in the course of ten
+minutes we sounded, and found three feet water in the hold. The pumps
+were choaked; by 9 <span class="smcap">a. m.</span> they were cleared, and by this time we had
+eight feet water in the well, and three on the gun-deck; the ship
+rolled very much, and the chests, guns, and water-casks, being all
+cast adrift, were dashing from larboard to starboard with the greatest
+fury. At 10 <span class="smcap">a. m.</span> the ship labouring so much, and her being eight
+streaks of her main-deck under water, abreast of her main-hatchway, so
+that we had very little prospect of her living two minutes above
+water, it was thought necessary to send her mizen-mast by the board,
+in order to righten her; but while going, the mizen-mast heeled to
+windward and caught her royal-yards in the top-sail tye, and stayed
+her so, that we were compelled to cut away the main-mast, which
+carried the fore-top-mast and jib-boom; and, while in the act of going
+by the board, it knocked an invalid down and killed him on the spot.
+The ship rightened a little; but the sea was very boisterous, and we
+appeared to be in a valley in the midst of a number of tremendous high
+mountains, which to all appearance seemed ready to fall and crush us.
+The carpenter came forward, and informed us, that we had sprung
+another leak, and that we had ten feet water in the well; the men, as
+by one accord, dropped the pumps, and appeared to despair; we might
+all have well exclaimed with the poet,</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Heaven have mercy here upon us!<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">For only that can save us now."<br /></span>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span></div></div>
+
+<p>"The atmosphere was hurled into the most tremendous confusion, the
+aerial torment burst itself over mountains, seas, and continents. All
+things felt the dreadful shock; all things trembled under her scourge,
+her sturdy sons were strained to the very nerves, and almost swept her
+headlong to the deep."</p>
+
+<p>It would be in vain to attempt to give a description of our feelings
+at this critical moment, tortured as we were with anguish and despair.
+Every man seemed now as if all was given over for lost, when the
+carpenter came forward and informed us the leak was found out, and
+that with a little exertion it might be stopped; the men then rose
+with great vigour, flew to the pumps with renovated strength, and gave
+three cheers. The cabins were all washed down, and a party of men were
+busily employed throwing every thing overboard,&mdash;self was not
+considered,&mdash;the very last rag was committed to the furious elements
+without a sigh. At 11 <span class="smcap">a. m.</span> the sea struck her starboard
+quarter-gallery and forced it from its birth, and as we were busily
+employed, a cry was heard, the starboard fore-mast port was carried
+away, and the sea forced itself with great rapidity along the deck;
+but the seamen flew to meet this new misfortune with the vigour of
+tigers, not considering the dangers they had to encounter, and thus
+effectually succeeded in stopping the leak.</p>
+
+<p>While the seamen were busily employed, the troops were desired to
+pump, which they firmly refused, and said they would sooner sink,
+except a poor blind man, who could not keep from them; his reply was
+truly noble, and, I am sure, my readers will excuse my repeating it.
+"I am unworthy of the life I have if I do not exert myself in this
+hour of distress; if it has pleased God to deprive me of the blessing
+of sight, he has not of the feelings of a Christian." At half past
+eleven the gale greatly abated, and by this time the carpenter had
+stopped the leak, by using all the gunny bags and blankets that could
+be found; the damage was occasioned by the masts beating under her
+counter. By 12 <span class="smcap">a. m.</span> it was a perfect calm; the men were now busily
+employed clearing the gun-deck, and securing every port-hole and
+scuttle in which they effectually succeeded by 1 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span></p>
+
+<p>"For a moment the turbulent and outrageous sky seemed to be assuaged;
+but it intermitted its wrath only to increase its strength; soon the
+sounding squadrons of the air returned to their attack, and renewed
+their ravages with redoubled fury; and the stately dome rocked amidst
+the wheeling clouds. The impregnable clouds tottered on its basis, and
+threatened to overwhelm those whom it was intended to protect, the
+vessel was almost rent in pieces, and scarcely secure; where then was
+a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> place of safety? Sleep affrighted flew, diversion was turned into
+horror; all was uproar in the elements; all was consternation among
+us, and nothing was seen but one wide picture of rueful devastation.</p>
+
+<p>"The ocean swelled with tremendous commotions; the ponderous waves
+were heaved from their capacious beds, and almost lay bare the
+unfathomed deep; flung into the most rapid agitation, they swept over
+us, and tossed themselves into the clouds. We were rent from our
+anchors, and with all our enormous load were whirled swift as an arrow
+along the vast abyss. Now we climb the rolling mountains, we plough
+the frightful ridge, and seem to skim the skies; anon we plunge into
+the opening gulf, we reel to and fro, and stagger in the jarring
+decks, or climb the cordage, whilst bursting seas foam over the decks.
+Despair is in every face, and death sits threatening in every surge."
+The whistling of the wind and roaring of the sea, together with the
+voice of despairing seamen, and the dreadful shrieks of the women,
+made us truly miserable; but we were forced to exert ourselves with
+assumed courage and vigour, which could only be imagined but by those
+placed in a similar situation,&mdash;our exertions were for life or death,
+knowing that if they once failed, that nothing was to be expected but
+to perish in a watery grave.</p>
+
+<p>We kept the water under to about three feet during the time of this
+dreadful gale; about 4 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span> it abated, and about 5 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span> it blew a
+steady breeze from the south-west; and at 6 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span> we went round her to
+examine the damage we had sustained; when, dreadful to relate, we
+found that a man and child had been washed out of their hammocks and
+perished; on proceeding along the waste we found two invalids had been
+jammed to death between two water-casks and the ship's sides, making a
+total of six lives lost during the storm.</p>
+
+<p>The hatches were opened about 8 <span class="smcap">p. m.</span>; but the provisions being so
+salt and sodden with the sea water, they could not be eaten, on
+account of the scarcity of fresh water. After the watch was set we
+laid ourselves down upon the upper-deck with no other covering than
+the starry heavens.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day we commenced clearing the wreck, and rigging up
+jurymasts, which we happily effected before sun-set; and on the 28th
+we arrived at Sadras, which lay south by west of Madras, distant
+fifteen miles. We lay here till the 30th without any tidings of the
+captain.</p>
+
+<p>The men from fatigue and pain, from sleeping on the wet decks, and
+continual pumping, came aft, and said the clouds threatened another
+storm, and that the monsoons were growing very strong, and in case the
+weather should alter for the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> worse, they had not strength left to
+work the ship in another gale, from want of nourishment; and that
+provided the officers did not think proper to remove to a place of
+safety, they were determined to take charge of her and proceed to
+Trincomalee, and deliver the vessel into the hands of the
+under-writers. All our remonstrances to them were in vain, until the
+chief mate pledged his word and honour, that if the captain did not
+join her the next morning, he would, ill as he was, take charge of her
+and proceed there himself.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning the captain joined her, with the hon. L. G.
+K. Murray, secretary to the board of trade at Madras, when they
+brought on board a quantity of provisions, which we stood very much in
+need of, and immediately made sail and arrived the same day at
+Pondicherry. The governor sent us on board a new anchor, as our own
+was sprung. Pondicherry is a town of Hindostan, under the French
+government, and situated on the coast of Coromandel, seventy-five
+miles S. S. W. of Madras.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day we run into Cuddalore, a little above the first
+bar. Cuddalore is a town of Hindostan, one hundred miles S. S. W. of
+Madras. Thirty of the ship's company being sick, they, with me, were
+compelled to leave the ship, and forced to proceed on shore to the
+hospital. I was about this time seized with a violent fit of the
+cholera morbus. It is supposed to originate from the cold damp airs
+which are very prevalent at this time of the season. A gentleman's
+bungalow was humanely given up as a hospital, or friendly receptacle,
+for our incapacitated seamen, during our sojourn at Cuddalore.</p>
+
+<p>The possibility of visiting the native town was precluded by the
+peculiar strictness of the regulations imposed upon us.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SECTION VI.</h2>
+
+<h4>THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CUDDALORE AND ARRIVAL AT
+PONDICHERRY&mdash;DEPARTURE THEREFROM, AND ARRIVAL AT MADRAS,
+WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME&mdash;ACCOUNT OF THE RELIGION,
+CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS OF THE NATIVES&mdash;DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS,
+ON HIS ROUTE TO NAGPORE,&mdash;ARRIVAL AT PONAMALEE, AND
+DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME&mdash;HIS DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL AT
+CUDDAPAH.</h4>
+
+
+<p>After I had thoroughly recovered, through the interest of a young
+German widow, I obtained my acquittal from the ship,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> and then
+proceeded to New Town for my passport. New Town lies about two miles
+and a half E. N. E. of Cuddalore, and is the residence of the
+Europeans in that neighbourhood; the houses of the Europeans are
+generally built of brick and those of the natives of wood. The day
+after I had obtained my passport I proceeded on my route and arrived
+at Pondicherry the same evening.</p>
+
+<p>Pondicherry is about four leagues in extent; the houses are built with
+brick, but the Indians use only wood, in the manner which we call lath
+and plaster. In a few days after I arrived in Madras, and took up my
+residence with a friend in Pursevaulkum.</p>
+
+<p>A few days after my arrival I proceeded with my friend to town.
+Madras, or Fort St. George, is a fort and town of the peninsula, on
+the coast of Coromandel. It is the principal settlement of the English
+on the east side of the peninsula, and is a fortress of great extent,
+including within it a regular well-built city. It is close to the sea
+shore, from which it has a rich and beautiful appearance, the houses
+being covered with a stucco, called <i>chunam</i>, which, in itself, is as
+compact as the finest marble, bears as high a polish, and is equally
+as splendid as that elegant material. There is a second city, called
+Black Town, nearly four miles in circumference, separated from Madras
+by the breadth of a proper esplanade. Madras, in common with all the
+European settlements on this coast, has no port for shipping, the
+coast forming nearly a straight line, and being incommoded with a high
+and dangerous surf. The citadel is situated in the middle of the
+White, or English Town, and is one of the best fortresses in the
+British possessions. The town is also encompassed with a strong wall
+of the same stone as that with which the citadel is built, and is
+defended by bastions, batteries, half-moons, flankers, and mortars.
+Opposite the west gate of the citadel are barracks and a convenient
+hospital for the company's soldiers, and at the other end is a mint
+where the company coin gold and silver.</p>
+
+<p>I was shortly after engaged as an overseer in the Madras Advertiser
+printing office, and as an assistant to the Madras Nautical Academy;
+but not agreeing with my employer I left it, and obtained permission
+to stop in the country as a free merchant.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. M. R&mdash;&mdash;, with whom I resided, used all his interest to obtain for
+me some permanent situation under government, but it could not be
+effected. At length, being tired of an indolent life, I opened a
+school, which succeeded very well, when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> I was forced to relinquish
+it, owing to my ill state of health the confinement and severity of
+the weather brought on a languishing complaint, which would have
+terminated in my death had I persisted in continuing in my present
+employment.</p>
+
+<p>My friend being obliged to quit Madras, left me and his brother in
+charge of his house. My friends, during his absence, greatly
+contributed to my amusement, and, in short, spared no expense. One
+morning, passing through Vessory Bazar, I was greatly shocked at
+seeing the nabob's elephant take up a little child in his trunk and
+dash its brains out against the ground; the only reason that could be
+observed was, that the child had thrown some pebble stones at it; and
+the only redress the poor disconsolate mother could obtain was a gift
+of fifty pagodas from the nabob, which is about equal to twenty pounds
+sterling.</p>
+
+<p>During my friend's absence his mother and brother were carried off
+with the cholera morbus. The general estimate of deaths through the
+settlement is at least three hundred and fifty in one day; the natives
+have been known to sacrifice in one day and at one pagoda, fifty cocks
+and fifty kids, to appease their angry gods, and, in fact, some of the
+poor deluded creatures will go with a sword run through their cheeks
+in the fleshy part, and kept hanging in that position for some days,
+continually dance backwards and forwards through the different bazars;
+others have the palms of their hands pierced with a sword; others have
+their breasts burnt, and others again have an instrument run through
+their tongue in order to calm the wrath of their offended deities; nor
+can they, in their opinions, put themselves to sufficient torture.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after my friend returned, I went to reside with a friend at
+Royaporum, south of Black Town, and soon afterwards I was engaged as
+an examiner in the accountant-general's office. After I had been a
+short time in this employ, I received an order to prepare for my
+departure for Nagpore, in the service of his highness the Rajah. On my
+return from the Fort St. George, I was greatly surprised at seeing an
+old man standing with his bare feet upon two pieces of wood in the
+form of a pair of pattens, with pointed pegs uppermost; he stood in
+that position for several days, with the blood running in torrents,
+and several of those who passed by gave him what their circumstances
+could well afford. A few days after I was invited to witness an Hindoo
+ceremony. We took our station at the top of a rich Persian's house,
+opposite a spacious esplanade and contiguous to a large pagoda; in the
+centre of the esplanade was fixed a capstern, with a pole about sixty
+feet long, which was fixed so as to be occasionally raised or
+lower<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>ed. Shortly after our arrival, a native, decorated with flowers,
+proceeded slowly towards the pagoda with tom-toms, and all kinds of
+Asiatic music; after he had prostrated himself in the pagoda, the
+Brahmin, a kind of priest, struck his side with a leather thong till
+it swelled to a considerable size, and then forced a butcher's hook
+through his side; he then composedly walked to the machine, and
+suffered himself to be fastened to a rope and suspended in the air
+with no other support than the butcher's hook; he went at least three
+times round a circle of about one hundred feet, and he kept his arms
+continually in motion during the whole time, fencing and throwing
+flowers among the bye standers, which were immediately picked up by
+them and kept as a religious relic. This ceremony is performed yearly
+for the purpose of those who have lost their cast, and may regain it
+by voluntarily undergoing this treatment. Eleven of them went through
+this torturing ceremony.</p>
+
+<p>I now began to put myself in readiness for my departure. On the
+morning of the 8th I dispatched my baggage and tents, together with a
+guard of eight peons (native police), which my friends had obtained
+for me, through their interest with the superintendent of the police.
+By the time I had taken leave of all my friends, and thanked them for
+their disinterested protection to a distressed seaman, I proceeded on
+my route (after receiving several more marks of their favours, Mr.
+C&mdash;&mdash; having presented me with an Arab horse, four baggage bullocks,
+and five hundred rupees, besides several letters of introduction) at
+eight o'clock in the evening. I travelled about five miles down the
+Ponamalee Road, and stopped at a village a little below the main
+guard, a small place with scarcely any fodder for the cattle. On the
+following morning, at a very early hour, we proceeded on our march,
+and arrived at Ponamalee about eight o'clock, where I found several of
+my friends waiting to take leave, as they expected that Ponamalee
+would have been the first stage.</p>
+
+<p>After having taken farewell of each other they returned back to
+Madras, and I hired for the day a small bungalow (or garden house)
+opposite the fort, where I determined to stay. Ponamalee is about
+fourteen miles W. S. W. of Madras. This small and beautiful town is
+situated upon a rising ground, which commands an extensive view of the
+adjacent country. The number of Europeans residing here is but few, as
+it is entirely out of the road for traffic. There is a fort which is
+situated upon a rising ground, and gives the village a romantic
+appearance. It forms a complete square, and on each angle is a small
+place erected in form of the body of a wind-mill, which was used
+formerly for the purpose of solitary confinement when the troops were
+quartered here, but is now occupied as lumber rooms; the fort is
+garrisoned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> by pensioners. The grand entrance is on the south side,
+and a small wicket is usually on the west. The fort is surrounded by a
+large moat about thirty feet in depth, the water is very clear and
+good, and is drank by the natives. The inner part is far from being
+roomy, owing to the extreme width of the ramparts. There are two or
+three small buildings for the use of the commanding officers, but now
+the residence of a school-master and two sergeants; in the centre is a
+small building with a dome on the top, which was used formerly for a
+chapel, but is now converted into a school for the instruction of the
+poor soldiers' children, and the two barracks are occupied by
+pensioners.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning, about two o'clock, we prepared for our
+journey, and in a few days arrived at Naggery, a distance of about two
+hundred miles W. N. W. of Madras. The natives here are Hindoos, and
+the village is remarkably clean. The pagoda, or place of worship, is a
+fine large building, built in an oblong form, and beautifully gilt and
+carved all round with monkeys and apes. The Hindoos, in their manner
+of diet, are very abstemious, refraining from flesh; in fact, they
+will not eat any animal food; they are very regular in their morning
+ablutions, which they do by washing and marking themselves with chunam
+in the centre of their foreheads, according to the mark of their
+different casts. If any one neglects it he is immediately turned out
+of the cast, and his relations disown him, nor will they permit him
+once to enter their house. Such is their strictness, that the father
+has refused to see his son and the mother her daughter; and if they
+happen to perceive him at any distance they fly from him as they would
+from a serpent, thinking that his touch would pollute them.</p>
+
+<p>The roads here are very bad, being principally jungle; their principal
+cultivation is paddy (a kind of oats). On my arrival at Nundihall I
+was determined to rest for a couple of days, as two of my servants
+were in a very ill state of health. Nundihall is a beautiful town, the
+houses are built of brick, and are generally from three to four
+stories high; the streets were very dirty, owing to the number of
+paddy fields that surround the city, as the growth of it requires that
+the earth should be completely covered with water. The natives are
+generally Hindoos and Moors. The town is surrounded by a high brick
+wall.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the town of Nundihall the roads were very bad, owing to
+the quantity of stones, and hills which were very steep and difficult
+to ascend. On the roads I had several disputes with the natives
+passing through Wuntimuttall, owing to my servants and the peons
+stealing the toddy from the trees. Toddy is a liquor which is
+extracted from the top veins of the cocoa-nut trees, which runs
+continually into a pot placed for that purpose. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> liquor is very
+pleasant, and is reckoned very wholesome when drank early in the
+morning in a small quantity; if drunk in the heat of the day it causes
+acidity in the bowels, and often is the cause of the death of many
+Europeans. The natives drink it continually, and often get quite
+intoxicated with it.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Cuddapah on the 21st instant; it is a large and
+commodious town, and is inhabited by Mussulmen. Cuddapah is situated
+N. W. of Madras, one hundred and fifty-one miles distant, and the
+general estimate of inhabitants is at about two hundred thousand. The
+principal houses are built of brick and the inferior ones of mud.</p>
+
+<p>The Mahometans divide their religion into two general parts, faith and
+practice, of which the first is divided into six distinct
+branches&mdash;belief in God, in his angels, in his scriptures, in his
+prophets, in the resurrection and final judgment, and lastly, in God's
+absolute decrees. The points relating to practice, are prayer with
+washings, &amp;c., alms, fasting, pilgrimages, and circumcision.</p>
+
+<p>The Mahometans pray five times in twenty-four hours, viz.: in the
+morning before sun-rise, when noon is past and the sun begins to
+decline from the meridian, in the afternoon before sun-set, in the
+evening after sun-set and before day is closed, and again in the
+evening and before the watch of the night. They fast with great
+strictness during the whole month of Ramadan, from the time the new
+moon first appears, during which period they must abstain from eating,
+drinking, and all other indulgences, from day-break till night or
+sun-set.</p>
+
+<p>The Europeans reside about two miles to the west of the native town,
+and have commodious houses, with fine spacious gardens; they are built
+of brick and much after the form of a gentleman's seat in England, but
+on a larger scale. I proceeded to the house of the collector, and on
+my road, my horse taking fright, I was thrown, and lost my purse
+containing all my money. My distress was now indescribable. Being left
+pennyless in the midst of a people totally destitute of Christian
+feeling, and without the probable means of obtaining the common
+necessaries of life, I arrived, in this miserable state of mind,
+bordering on despair, at the collector's, Mr. Hanbury, and after
+making him acquainted with my circumstances, he generously rendered me
+his assistance, paid my servants' wages that were in arrear, and
+kindly advanced what I thought sufficient to defray my expenses,
+having previously sent my peons back to Madras, and supplied me with
+fresh ones to proceed with me to Hydrabad.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day the rain came down in torrents, accompanied with
+thunder and lightning, which kept me within my tent and caused me to
+exclaim with Dr. Henry, "O, ye lightnings, that brood and lie couchant
+in the sulphureous vapours, that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> glance with forked fury from the
+angry gloom, swifter and fiercer than the lion rushes from his den, or
+open with vast expansive sheets of flame, sublimely waved over the
+prostrate world, and fearfully lingering in the affrighted skies!" "Ye
+thunders, that awfully grumble in the distant clouds, seem to meditate
+indignation, and from the first essays of a far more frightful peal;
+or suddenly bursting over your heads, rend the vault above and shake
+the ground below with a hideous and horrid crack!" In the evening the
+weather began to clear up, which induced me to walk out, when taking
+two peons as a guard, I proceeded south of the town, on a beautiful
+plain: the pleasantness of the weather, and the stillness of the
+evening, tempted me to prolong my walk, and inspired my mind to
+contemplate on the wonderful works of Providence, who had so lately
+showered down his blessings upon me, in preserving me from want in the
+midst of a heathen world. The sun had almost finished his daily
+course, and sunk lower and lower till he seemed to hover on the verge
+of the sky!</p>
+
+<p>The globe is now half immured beneath the dusky earth; or, as the
+ancient poet speaks, "is shooting into the ocean, and sinks into the
+western sea." The whole face of the ground was overspread with shades,
+and what the painters of nature call "dun obscurity." Only a few
+superior eminences, tipt with streaming silver, the tops of groves and
+lofty towers that catch the last smiles of day, were still irradiated
+by the departing beams. But, O how transient is the destination&mdash;how
+momentary the gift! like all the blessings which mortals enjoy below,
+it is gone almost as soon as granted. How languishingly it trembled on
+the leafy spire, and glimmered with dying faintness on the mountain's
+sable brow! till it expired and resigned the world to the gradual
+approaches of night.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span></p>
+<h2>SECTION VII.</h2>
+
+<h4>THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CUDDAPAH&mdash;DESCRIPTION OF THE
+DIFFERENT VILLAGES, AND ARRIVAL AT HYDRABAD&mdash;DESCRIPTION OF
+HYDRABAD, AND DEPARTURE THEREFROM&mdash;ARRIVAL AT NERMUL.</h4>
+
+
+<p>On the morning of the 27th, I proceeded on my route over the chain
+hills, with which the town of Cuddapah is surrounded; the roads are
+very good, but the steepness of the hills made it very fatiguing: in
+six hours I arrived at Batoor, a distance of twelve miles. Batoor is a
+large village, the houses are built of mud and bamboo, and form a
+motley group; the only protection they have from the number of robbers
+which infest that part, is a small fort, about two hundred square
+feet; the ramparts are about fourteen feet in thickness, and at each
+angle a small gun is mounted upon a pivot, about three feet from its
+walls; the fort in general is very much out of repair; the inhabitants
+are Hindoos, and are very indolent; the land is quite barren and free
+from cultivation. The cruelty with which Europeans in general act
+towards these poor captives is really disgraceful, and cannot but be
+censured by all who cherish the least trait of humanity with their
+breast.</p>
+
+<p>When an European passes through any of the villages, and is in want of
+any coolies, or porters, to carry his baggage, he orders his guards to
+press every man he can meet with, and compel him to carry whatever his
+barbarous protector chooses he should labour under, and if there is
+not sufficient men, to press the women, without considering whether
+they have any family to provide for. It has been frequently known,
+that the mother has been forced to leave her infant babe from her
+breast upon the bare earth to provide for itself, to carry the baggage
+of a merciless enemy, whose only payment, after going fifteen or
+sixteen Indian miles, is, if she complains, a <i>bambooing</i>, (that is a
+caning,) and, perhaps, after she gets home, which cannot be till the
+next day, she finds her poor infant dead for want.</p>
+
+<p>We passed through Parmunsa, and arrived at Moorkandah, which is a
+small village, and in a very ruinous condition, as it is at the foot
+of the Ghaut; the inhabitants are but few in number, and are
+principally Brahmins, consequently provisions are very scarce; on my
+requesting the cutwall, or headman of the village, to bring<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> some
+fowls, he refused, and said there were none in the place, although I
+repeatedly heard the crowing of a cock. The impudent manner in which
+the man answered me, made me doubt the truth of what he said; in order
+to ascertain it, I took two peons and my gun and went round the
+village, and found a full grown cock; I caught it, and ordered it to
+be carried to my tent and killed; the natives by this time were in
+arms, and before any of us were aware of it, they had secured the
+peons and surrounded me, demanding the cock: when they were informed
+of its death, they all began to weep and raised a most lamentable cry,
+and said it was devoted to their god, and that the heaviest curses
+would follow me. I expected their denunciations would have paid for
+it; but in that I was greatly mistaken, for they demanded payment for
+it; and to avoid any injury to my peons, I offered them one rupee,
+considering that it would be equal to the price of eighteen cocks; but
+they disdainfully refused it, and said that they must offer gifts to
+their god to appease his anger, and to pay their sadura to intercede
+in their behalf. I remonstrated with them; but to no avail, as they
+would not take less than ten rupees. I tried all in my power to make
+my escape from them; but when they perceived my intentions, they drew
+their scimitars, and held them to my breast, and said, provided I did
+not accede to their offer, they would not spare the lives of my peons
+nor myself, as they could not get it replaced for forty times that
+sum, which was presented to them by their rajah. The price I
+considered to be extortionate, (but I paid it,) as fowls are sold in
+the different villages round that neighbourhood for one penny each,
+sheep for ten-pence, and every other article in proportion.</p>
+
+<p>On the following morning, at a very early hour, I crossed the Ghaut;
+in the centre there is a very great declivity on each side the road,
+about two hundred feet in depth, and the Ghaut is very steep, and
+covered with flint-stone, which made it very difficult for the horse
+and cattle to pass: it is about twelve miles in length, and at the
+foot of it is the village of Badnapore. The inhabitants are very
+peaceable, and the village is close on the borders of Khristnah river.
+We made all possible haste to cross, which was effected by means of a
+large round basket, which is continually whirling round in the river.
+The river is about a quarter of a mile in width, but the heavy current
+carried us nearly two miles down; and owing to the exertions of the
+cattle, we encamped close on its banks. On the following day we passed
+Pungall-hill fort, which is situate on the summit of a very steep
+mount, and is built of mud, and large enough to contain ten thousand
+troops; it is only accessible on the north-east angle, which is easily
+blockaded in case of necessity. In five days we arrived at Hydrabad.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Hydrabad lies about 350 miles north-west of Madras; the houses are
+built of brick, and generally run four and five stories high. The
+inhabitants are principally Mahometans interspersed with Hindoos.</p>
+
+<p>The Mahometans will not suffer a Christian to touch their cooking
+utensils or fuel by any means, and if such should be done, they
+consider them as polluted, and they will instantly break and destroy
+them; and while they are in the act of eating, if touched by any one
+of another sect, they will not swallow what is even in their mouth,
+but will throw it out, and go through a regular purification by
+washing and prayer.</p>
+
+<p>After I had been at Hydrabad a few days, I joined a small party to
+view the interior: while we were taking breakfast, a cavalcade of
+elephants came up to the door with a number of peons. After we had
+mounted them we proceeded through the south gate into the city; the
+streets were particularly dirty, owing to there being no drains. The
+town is supplied with water by a well about two hundred feet in
+circumference.</p>
+
+<p>On our entrance into the minister's house we were surprised at seeing
+a battalion of female sepoys (soldiers) presenting arms to us. We
+stood to see them go through their military man&oelig;uvres, which they
+did with dexterity; we then proceeded towards the house, which is
+built entirely of cedar-wood, but in a very ordinary manner, owing to
+the number of apartments: every room is carved in a beautiful and
+masterly style, from the ceiling to the floor. This ornament is very
+common among the lower classes, who have the devices of their gods
+carved on the doors of their houses. The apartments form a complete
+square, and in the centre is a stone tank. We next proceeded to a
+gallery of looking-glasses; the only one worthy of notice is about
+eighteen feet long and sixteen wide; there is likewise a whole length
+painting of Earl Moira, Governor-General of India. We afterwards
+proceeded to the palace of the Rajah: on our entrance into the inner
+court, we were agreeably surprised at seeing a quantity of tea-cups,
+saucers, &amp;c. of various colours, placed against the wall in form of
+elephants, tigers, serpents, &amp;c. in the most superb manner; in the
+centre is a large tank, containing a great quantity of salmon-trout. I
+had the honour of being introduced to the Rajah's sons, but his
+Highness was not present.</p>
+
+<p>After having obtained a guard of twelve sepoys and two naigues, I
+proceeded on my route, and in a few days arrived at Nermul.</p>
+
+<p>Nermul is a large and beautiful city, surrounded by a fort, and is
+about three miles in circumference, and is on a rising ground, 205
+miles north-north-east of Hydrabad, and in the heart of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span> jungle,
+it is under the command of Major Woodhouse. The inhabitants are
+principally Moors.</p>
+
+<p>I pitched my tent in the middle of a burying-ground, by the side of a
+running stream, and owing to the fatigue I had experienced, I now
+resolved to sojourn for two days. This place suited my present state
+of mind.</p>
+
+<p>My attention was soon attracted by a magnificent tomb, and upon
+examining the inscription, it proved to be a rajah's. The gardens were
+ingeniously planned, and a thousand elegant decorations designed; but,
+alas! their intended possessor is gone down "to the place of sculls!"</p>
+
+<p>While I am recollecting, many, I question not, are experiencing the
+same tragical vicissitude. The eyes of the Sublime Being, who sits
+upon the circle of the earth, and views all its inhabitants with one
+incomprehensive glance, even now behold as many tents in affliction as
+overwhelmed the Egyptians in that fatal night when the destroying
+angel sheathed his arrows in all the pride of their strength; some
+sinking to the floor from their easy chair, and deaf even amidst the
+piercing shrieks of their distracted relations; some giving up the
+ghost as they retired, or lay reclined under the shady harbour to
+taste the sweets of the flowery scene; some as they sail with a party
+of pleasure along the silver stream and through the laughing meads!
+nor is the grim intruder terrified though wine and music flow around.</p>
+
+<p>"Those who received vast revenues, and called whole lordships their
+own, are reduced to half a dozen feet of earth, or confined in a few
+sheets of lead! Rooms of state and sumptuous furniture are resigned
+for no other ornament than the <i>shroud</i>, for no other apartment than
+the darksome <i>niche</i>! Where is the star that blazed upon the breast,
+or the glittered sceptre? The only remains of departed dignity are the
+weather-beaten hatchment. I see no splendid retinue surrounding this
+solitary dwelling. The princely equipage hovers no longer about their
+lifeless master, he has no other attendant than a dusty <i>statue</i>;
+which, while the regardless world is as gay as ever, the sculptor's
+hand has taught to weep."</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span></p>
+<h2>SECTION VIII.</h2>
+
+<h4>THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM NERMUL AND ARRIVAL AT
+NAGPORE&mdash;HIS DEPARTURE, AND ARRIVAL AT JAULNAH&mdash;THE AUTHOR'S
+DEPARTURE FROM JAULNAH AND ARRIVAL AT POONAH, AND
+DESCRIPTION OF THE VILLAGES WITH THEIR RELIGION&mdash;HIS ARRIVAL
+AT BOMBAY, AND HIS DISTRESS&mdash;SKETCH OF BOMBAY AND ACCOUNT OF
+THE PERSIAN RELIGION&mdash;HE JOINS THE HONOURABLE COMPANY'S SHIP
+MARQUIS OF HUNTLY, AS CAPTAIN'S CLERK&mdash;HIS DEPARTURE FROM
+BOMBAY AND ARRIVAL AT BENGAL.</h4>
+
+
+<p>After remaining two days, I proceeded on my route; and on the
+following day arrived at Wadoor, a distance of fourteen miles, across
+a long succession of hills, the roads over which are very rugged and
+covered with stones; Wadoor lies in a valley, at the foot of a large
+mountain, and is hardly perceivable from the top.</p>
+
+<p>On the 20th December, we travelled along a beautiful and finely
+cultivated country, the produce of which is cholum and paddy, which
+grows in great quantities; the inhabitants are very civil, and
+principally Moor men. On the 25th December, 1821, I arrived at
+Nagpore, and on the same evening was seized with the Nagpore fever,
+which is always accompanied by fits of the ague. The fever is supposed
+to originate from the excessive heats of the day, and the extreme cold
+of the night.</p>
+
+<p>I endeavoured as much as possible that my ill state of health should
+not keep me from my employment, but attended to it very assiduously;
+which I persevered in till the 27th of March, when the doctor informed
+me, that I had better leave the Presidency or I should endanger my
+life, as the hot winds generally set in in the middle of April, which
+frequently prove very dangerous to European invalids.</p>
+
+<p>On the 2nd of April, after having previously obtained my passport and
+a guard of twelve Seapoys, I proceeded on my route, and towards
+evening arrived at Tukea, where, owing to my ill state of health, I
+was compelled to stop two days.</p>
+
+<p>On the 12th I arrived at Ouronty, which is S. W. by W. of Nagpore,
+about 100 miles. The town is very large, and is surrounded by a brick
+wall; the houses are built of brick, and are generally three stories
+high. The inhabitants are Mussulmen. In the afternoon I went to the
+palace of the Rajah, (Rajah ram.) His palace outside is very dirty,
+owing to his guard making fires against the walls for cooking. On my
+desiring to see the Rajah, I was conducted through a long dreary
+passage, with the walls, to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span> all appearance, covered with grease and
+filth, at the end of which is a large court-yard, which has a very
+different appearance, the Rajah's apartments being all round; at the
+end were six Peons waiting to conduct me to his highness, with silver
+staves, about eleven feet long, with a device of Mahomet on the top;
+on my introduction to the Rajah's apartment, he was sitting
+cross-legged with his hooker; at my entrance he arose and made three
+salams in token of respect to the British nation. After questioning me
+where I was going to, and my reasons for so doing, he presented me
+with two camel-hair shawls, by placing them across my shoulder; then
+taking his leave.</p>
+
+<p>On the following day, I proceeded on my route, and on the 20th arrived
+at Luckenwarry; where there is good encampment and water, and the
+natives are principally Hindoos. Early on the following morning we
+began to cross the Luckenwarry Ghaut; the roads were steep and not
+above ten feet wide, and on each side a vacuity of about 250 feet
+deep. The light in the lantern being extinguished, and the moon being
+obscured, my horse, had it not been for the horse-keeper, would have
+precipitated me to the bottom; I instantly dismounted, and the
+horse-keeper led him till he was clear of the Ghaut. On the centre is
+a large gate, which stands about forty feet high, and which, during
+the war, had withstood a three months' siege.</p>
+
+<p>Passing through the jungle between the villages of Currone and
+Chickly, we were greatly surprised at seeing a large party on camels;
+we hailed them and enquired who they were, but we could not by any
+means obtain an answer; when finding they persisted in their
+obstinacy, the Naigues suspected them of belonging to the party of
+Sheik Dullah, a noted robber who had already committed many
+depredations in that neighbourhood, and on our desiring them to move
+to the left of us if they were friends, they made a sudden halt; the
+sepoys then drew up in a line, and the followers began to guard their
+baggage, but when they saw our number, they went off to the left of
+us, grumbling.</p>
+
+<p>On the 24th, we arrived at Jaulnah. It bears W. by S., of Nagpore,
+distant 180 miles. On the following day, after I had taken sufficient
+rest, I presented my passport to the Adjutant-General, and delivered
+up the guard, having previously obtained another. Jaulnah is a large
+town, surrounded by a brick wall, about twenty feet in height; the
+houses are generally of brick, and from three to four stories; the
+inhabitants are principally Hindoos, interspersed with Persians and
+Mussulmen. The cantonment is the head quarters of the British army on
+this side the Deccan.&mdash;Jaulnah has a civil and military government.</p>
+
+<p>After staying two days, I proceeded on my route, and on the 19th of
+May I arrived at Poonah. It bears S. S. E. of Bombay,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> and is in the
+territories of the Peishwa: it is about forty miles distant from
+Bombay. I took up my residence with a friend, commander of the
+Sebundaries; during my route, I passed through Armigabad, Amednagur,
+and Seroor; which is the residence of Europeans, and has detachments
+of different regiments quartered at each town: their houses are in
+general of brick and stone, their religion is Hindoo.</p>
+
+<p>The Hindoos are divided into four tribes, first the Brahmin; second,
+the Khatry; third, the Bhyse; fourth, the Sooders; all these have
+their distinct sects, and cannot intermingle with each other; but for
+some offences they are expelled their sects, which is the highest
+punishment they can suffer. In this manner a kind of fifth sect,
+called Pariah, is formed of the dregs of the people, who are employed
+only in the meanest capacity. There is a kind of division which
+pervades the four sects indiscriminately; which is taken from the
+worship of their gods <span class="smcap">Vishnou</span> and <span class="smcap">Sheevah</span>; the worshippers of the
+former being named Vishnou bukht, and of the latter, Sheevah bukht.</p>
+
+<p>Of these four sects the Brahmins have the superiority, and all the
+laws show such a partiality towards them, as cannot but induce us to
+suppose that they have had the principal hand in framing them. They
+are not allowed the privilege of sovereignty; but are solely kept for
+the instruction of the people. They are alone allowed to read the Veda
+or Sacred Books. The Khatries or sect next in dignity, being only
+allowed to hear them read, while the other two read the Satras, or
+commentaries upon them; but the poor Chandalas are not allowed to
+enter their temple, or to be present at any religious ceremony.</p>
+
+<p>In point of precedence, the Brahmins claim a superiority even to
+princes, the latter being chosen of Khatry or second sect. In fact the
+Brahmin claims every privilege, and the inferior sects give place to
+him; the Hindoos are allowed to eat no flesh nor to shed blood. Their
+food is rice and dholl, and other vegetables, dressed with ghee (dholl
+is a kind of split pea, ghee, a kind of butter, melted and refined to
+make it capable of being kept a long time) and seasoned with ginger
+and other spices. The food which they most esteem is milk, as coming
+from the cow; an animal for which they have the most extravagant
+veneration, insomuch that it is enacted in the code of Gentoo laws,
+that any one who exacts labour from a bullock that is hungry or
+thirsty, or shall oblige him to labour when fatigued, is liable to be
+fined by the magistrates.</p>
+
+<p>The Hindoos are remarkable for their ingenuity in all kinds of
+handicraft; but their utensils are simple and in many respects
+inconvenient, so that incredible labour and patience are necessary,
+for the accomplishment of any work; and for this the Hin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>doos are
+remarkable. The religion of the Hindoos is contained in certain books,
+called Vedas; and, though now involved in superstition, seems to have
+been originally pure, inculcating the belief of an Eternal Being,
+possessed of every divine perfection. Their subordinate deities,
+Brahma, Vishnou, and Sheevah, are only representatives of the wisdom,
+goodness, and power of the supreme god Brahma; whom they call the
+principles of Truth, the spirit of Wisdom, and the Supreme Being; so
+that it is probable that all their idols were at first only designed
+to represent these attributes: they believe in ten Avators, or
+incarnation of the Deity, nine of which have taken place for the
+punishment of tyrants, or removing some great natural calamity; and
+the tenth is to take place at the dissolution of the universe. Several
+of the Avators inculcate the transmigration of souls, and the ninth of
+them, which forbids the sacrifices of animals, gave rise to the
+religion of Gauda Boodma, or Fo.</p>
+
+<p>Their deities are extremely numerous, and are generally supposed to
+have first originated in Italy and Greece.</p>
+
+<p>After stopping six days, I proceeded to Bombay, and on the 30th of May
+I arrived there. After delivering my passport, I made application for
+a ship for England, and was some time before I could get one; and the
+great expense I incurred in living at a tavern, made me entirely
+pennyless, so that I was forced to dispose of the shawls which I had
+presented me by the Rajah of Omrouty, and for which I received three
+hundred rupees each. But before I was finally settled, I had not above
+ten rupees left.</p>
+
+<p>Bombay is an island of Hindostan, on the west coast of the Deccan,
+seven miles in length, and about twenty-one miles in circumference;
+the ground is barren, and good water scarce; it was formerly
+considered very unhealthy, but by draining the swamps and bogs the air
+is much improved; the inhabitants are of several nations and very
+numerous, but are principally Persians.</p>
+
+<p>The religion of the Persians is, generally, Paganism, directed
+principally by the priests of magi, men of strict austere life,
+forbidding the use of either ornament or gold; making the ground their
+bed, and herbs their food. Their whole time is spent in offering to
+the gods the prayers and sacrifices of the people, as they only might
+be heard.</p>
+
+<p>The people are <i>Gentiles</i>; as to their religion, they worship the sun
+and moon, and various heavenly bodies, from whom they suppose they
+derive every blessing of light and warmth; and every morning they
+gather themselves round the beech and present their morning oblations,
+by pouring into the sea quantities of milk and odoriferous flowers,
+and prostrating themselves with their faces to the earth, as a mark of
+adoration to their rising deity<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> (the sun.) Besides other gods which
+the Gentiles worship, they are great idolaters of fire, which they
+offer sacrifices to in time of peace, and carry it with them, as their
+tutelar deity in time of war. Their adoration is so great, that the
+first candle they see lighted, let it be in whose place it will, they
+immediately stop and repeat a prayer. In their habitation they never
+put it out after it is once lighted.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the town of Bombay, which is about a mile in length, with mean
+houses (a few only excepted), there is a capacious harbour or bay,
+reckoned the finest haven in the east, where all ships may find
+security from the inclemency of the different seasons. After remaining
+here for the space of three months, I was engaged as captain's clerk
+on board the Hon. Company's Ship Marquis of Huntly. We sailed from
+hence July 25, 1820, and arrived at the new anchorage in nineteen
+days' sail; soon after I went up to Calcutta on duty for the ship.</p>
+
+<p>Calcutta, or <i>Fort William</i>, the emporium of Bengal, and principal
+seat of India, is situated on the western side of the Hoogely river,
+at about ninety-six miles from its mouth, which is navigable up to the
+town for large ships. This extensive and beautiful town is supposed to
+contain between four and five hundred thousand inhabitants. The houses
+are variously built, some of brick, others of mud and cow-dung, and a
+great number with bamboos (a large kind of reed or cane) and mats. The
+bamboos are placed as stakes in the ground, and crossed with others in
+different ways, so as to enable them to make the matting fast, when
+for the roofing they lay them one upon the other, when a large family
+lie in that small compass of about six feet square, which makes a very
+motley appearance. The mixture of European and Asiatic manners
+observed in Calcutta is wonderful; coaches, phaetons, hackeries,
+two-wheeled carriages drawn by bullocks, palanquins carried by the
+natives, and the passing ceremonies of Hindoos, and the different
+appearance of the faquirs, form a diversified and curious appearance.
+The European houses have, many of them, the appearance of palaces or
+temples, and the inhabitants are very hospitable.</p>
+
+<p>After the cargo was sent on board I returned to the ship, but on our
+passage down the river we were compelled to lie out in the river,
+owing to the great boar, as it is called; it is a quick overflowing of
+the water, which rises in a great body and with such violence that it
+breaks down all before it. It arises from the narrowness of the river,
+and the force which it makes from the sea; in the course of two
+minutes it rises to the height of four or five feet.</p>
+
+<p>Lying in one of the creeks till the tide was turned, I was greatly
+alarmed by the men getting into the boat in great disorder<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> and
+telling me that it was a crocodile which I had for a long time
+observed, and mistaken for the hull of a tree. A crocodile is an
+amphibious voracious animal, in shape resembling a lizard. It is
+covered with very hard scales, which cannot but with difficulty be
+pierced, except under the belly, where the skin is tender. It has a
+wide throat, with several rows of teeth, sharp and separated, which
+enter one another.</p>
+
+<p>On my arrival on board every thing was in confusion, as we expected to
+sail in a few days.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>SECTION IX.</h2>
+
+<h4>THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CALCUTTA, AND ARRIVAL AT
+CHINA&mdash;AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR RELIGION, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS,
+AND OF HIS BEING ROBBED ON DANES' ISLAND&mdash;THE AUTHOR'S
+DEPARTURE FROM CHINA AND ARRIVAL AT ANJURE POINT&mdash;THE
+CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF THE MALAYS&mdash;DEPARTURE THEREFROM, AND
+ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA&mdash;DESCRIPTION OF THE EMPEROR NAPOLEON'S
+TOMB AND HOUSES&mdash;DEPARTURE FROM ST. HELENA, AND ARRIVAL IN
+ENGLAND.</h4>
+
+<p>We sailed from Bengal in company with the Hon. Company's Ship Dunira,
+October 19th, 1820, with a fine breeze, and arrived at Pulo Penang, or
+Prince of Wales's Island, on the 6th of November. The houses have a
+noble appearance, and are built after the form of those in Calcutta.
+The inhabitants are principally Malays; of them I shall speak more
+hereafter. After having received on board a quantity of rattan, as
+private trade for the captain, we made sail and arrived at Macao, on
+January 26th, 1821, after a long and tedious voyage.</p>
+
+<p>Macao, a town of China, in the province of Canton, is seated in an
+inland at the entrance of the river Tae. The Portuguese have been in
+possession of the town and harbour since the early part of the
+seventeenth century. The houses are low and built after the European
+manner; the Portuguese are properly a mixed breed, having been married
+to Asiatic women. Here is a Portuguese Governor as well as a Chinese
+Mandarin. The former nation pays a great tribute to choose their own
+magistrates. The city is defended by three forts, built upon
+eminences; and the works are good and well planted with artillery.</p>
+
+<p>On the 29th we anchored off the second bar, and found lying here the
+Hon. Company's Ship Canning, and two or three other Com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>pany's ships;
+on the 30th weighed and made sail, but there not being water enough,
+removed back to our old station. On the following day we crossed
+Whampo. After the cargo was discharged I went up to Canton.</p>
+
+<p>Canton is a large and populous city, situated in one of the first
+rivers in the empire. It is the capital of the province of Quan-tong,
+and the centre of the European trade in that country. The streets are
+long and straight, paved with flag stones, and adorned with lofty
+arches. The houses are remarkably neat, but consist only of one story,
+and they have no windows to the streets. The covered market place is
+full of shops. The inhabitants are estimated at about 1,000,000; many
+of whom reside in barks, which touch one another, form a kind of
+floating city, and are so arranged as to form streets. Each bark
+lodges a family and their grand children, who have no other dwelling.
+At break of day all the people who inhabit them depart to fish or to
+cultivate their rice.</p>
+
+<p>The frugal and laborious manner in which the great live, the little
+attention which is paid to the vain and ridiculous prejudice of
+marrying below rank; the ancient policy of giving distinction to men
+and not to families, by attaching nobility only to employments and
+talents, without suffering it to be hereditary; and the decorum
+observed in public, are admirable traits in the Chinese character.</p>
+
+<p>There is little distinction in the dress of men and women; rank and
+dignity are only distinguished by the ornaments they wear, and they
+dare not presume to wear any thing without proper authority, without
+being severely chastised for it. Their dress in general consists of a
+long vest, which reaches to the ground, one part of it, on the left
+side, folds over the other, and is fastened to the right by four or
+five small gold or silver buttons placed at a little distance from one
+another. The sleeves are wide towards the shoulder, and grow narrow
+towards the wrist&mdash;they terminate in the form of a horse-shoe&mdash;round
+their middle they wear a large girdle of silk, the ends of which hang
+down to their knees; from this girdle is suspended a sheath,
+containing a knife, and over all they wear a loose jacket down to the
+middle, with loose short sleeves, generally lined with fur, and under
+all they wear a kind of net to prevent it from chafing. The general
+colour of these dresses is black or blue.</p>
+
+<p>Their religion is idolatry, their principal idol is <i>Fong Chon</i>, and
+they are very superstitious, believing in magic and invocation of
+spirits, and the art of foretelling events by divination.</p>
+
+<p>While receiving our cargo on board, a Chinaman belonging to one of the
+craft, stole a box of tea, but, by the exertion of our officers, the
+culprit was taken and immediately sent on shore to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> Dane's Island to
+the mandarine. He was found guilty of the crime, and his punishment
+three dozen blows with the bastinado. The instrument of correction,
+called pan-tsee, is a bamboo a little flattened, broad at the bottom,
+and polished at the upper extremity, in order to manage it more easily
+with the hand.</p>
+
+<p>The culprit, after the mandarin has given the signal for punishment,
+is seized and stretched out with his belly flat on the ground, his
+breeches are pulled down to his heels, and on the mandarine throwing
+down a stick, of which he has a number by him, one of the officers in
+attendance uses the pan-tsee, and gives him five severe blows, which
+are succeeded by several others till the number is complete. When it
+is over, the criminal must throw himself on his knees, incline his
+body three times to the earth, and thank his judge for the trouble he
+has taken in his correction.</p>
+
+<p>The mandarins are of two classes, viz.; those of letters, and the
+inferior sort are styled mandarins of arms. The latter class do not
+enjoy the same consideration as the former.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese in general are much addicted to commit depredations on the
+pockets, or, in fact, on any unguarded property. After all our cargo
+was received on board, I went in company with two midshipmen, Mr.
+C&mdash;&mdash; and Mr. R&mdash;&mdash;, on Dane's Island. After we landed some Chinese
+came and decoyed us to their village, which was at the back of a
+number of hills and out of sight of the shipping, under a promise that
+they would let us have some of their country fruit, such as they sent
+us on board. The length of time that some of them were absent, and the
+sun going down fast, made us rather doubt the sincerity of their
+intentions; those that were with us begged that we would stop till the
+sun was down, but we began to be afraid of our lives. When the men saw
+that we were determined to wait no longer, they gave a dreadful whoop,
+which was answered by others stationed on the hills; they immediately
+seized hold of us and rifled our pockets.</p>
+
+<p>On March 25th we sailed down to Macao, and on the following day we
+took our departure, and on the 24th of April arrived at Anjier point,
+and is a settlement belonging to the Dutch; it lies to the east of
+Batavia. The houses are generally built of bamboo; the inhabitants are
+of various casts, Pagans, Mahometans, and Chinese. The barbarism of
+the Batta Tribes is horrible, for they kill and eat their criminals or
+prisoners of war, or even sacrifice their own relations when aged and
+infirm, not so much with a view to gratify their appetites, as to
+perform a pious ceremony. Thus, when a man becomes infirm and weary of
+the world, he is said to invite his own children to eat him when salt
+and limes are cheapest. He then ascends a tree, round which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> his
+friends and offspring assemble, and as they shake the tree they join
+in a funeral dirge, the import of which is, the season is come, the
+fruit is ripe, and it must descend. The victim descends, and those
+that are nearest deprive him of life, and devour his remains in a
+solemn banquet.</p>
+
+<p>In a few days we made sail. We arrived at St. Helena, on the 10th of
+July, 1821. This island is situated in the South Atlantic Ocean, its
+circumference is about twenty miles, and at a distance it has the
+appearance of a large rock rising out of the sea. On rounding the
+island it has a very romantic appearance; the town lying in a valley
+presents to the eye a beautiful chain of scenery. It has some very
+high mountains, particularly one called Diana's Peak, which is covered
+with wood to the very summit. There are other hills also, which bear a
+volcanic appearance, and some have huge rocks of lava, and a kind of
+half-vitrified flags. James Town is erected in a valley at the bottom
+of a bay, between two steep dreary mountains, and has from the
+shipping a noble appearance.</p>
+
+<p>Accommodations are tolerably good, and the inhabitants, generally
+speaking, are very hospitable. Their villas are pleasantly situated,
+and have a fine view of the sea; the whole face of the country is
+really romantic; the hills are immensely high, and the valleys very
+narrow; and in many of them there are a few houses, which give the
+whole island a very picturesque appearance.</p>
+
+<p>After obtaining a passport from the Adjutant-General, I went over a
+long succession of hills to see the habitations of the late Emperor
+Napoleon Bonaparte. The roads were very difficult to ascend, and
+particularly rugged. The remains of this great and illustrious
+personage are buried in a deep valley, about three miles from James
+town, and about two miles from his late residence at Longwood, under
+the peaceful shade of three weeping willows, and which also, (as in
+respect to his dust,) lend a solemn air of reverential darkness to the
+memorable <i>well</i>, from which, during his pilgrimages, he was wont to
+receive his refreshing draughts.</p>
+
+<p>No stately monument marks the spot; no polished alabaster, or the
+mimicry of sculptured marble marks his grave: the real excellency of
+the patriot is written on the minds of his countrymen; it will be
+remembered with applause as long as the nation subsists, without this
+artificial expedient to perpetuate it.</p>
+
+<p>Let the poor pass by his grave, and thankfully acknowledge, there lies
+the man who gloriously fought for his country and his subjects, to
+free them from the galling yoke of tyranny and oppression: no tablets
+are written to mark his actions, but those which are written in the
+heart of his subjects.</p>
+
+<p>The depth of his tomb is about twenty feet, and his coffin rests<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> upon
+two pedestals, ten feet high. His body is enclosed in four coffins,
+first lead, second deal, third mahogany, and fourth marble. What is
+very remarkable is, that part of his tomb is made of the flag-stones
+of his new house, taken out of one of the kitchens. After viewing the
+tomb of the man who was the most brilliant meteor in the political
+world, I proceeded up to Longwood, to take a view of the habitation in
+which he died.</p>
+
+<p>After presenting my passport I had permission to inspect the premises:
+the officer took great pains in shewing me the very spot on which he
+quitted his troubles and persecutions, when he kindly left me to make
+what sort of reflections I thought proper. The darkness of the room
+gave it a very solemn appearance, and suited the mind to contemplate
+upon this late extraordinary character;&mdash;but a short period past he
+was the terror of the world, and now, alas! what is he? He is laid low
+in the tomb, unregretted and unpitied by his merciless enemies. A
+gleam of light through the casements reflected a dead glimmer through
+the gloomy mansion. The <i>most illustrious</i> have claimed the <i>tomb</i> for
+their last retreat; rooms of state are resigned! the sceptre has
+ceased to wield, and sumptuous banquets are neglected for no other
+ornament than the winding sheet! "Where is the star that blazed upon
+his breast, or the coronet that glittered round his temples?" Alas!
+they are resigned and given over, through the power of the tyrant hand
+of death.</p>
+
+<p>I have often walked between the impending promontory's craggy cliff; I
+have sometimes trod the vast spaces of the lonely desert, and
+penetrated the inmost recesses of the dreary cavern; but never beheld
+Nature lowering with so dreadful a form; never felt impressions of
+such awe striking cold on my heart, as under this roof; every thing
+seemed to participate in grief for their deceased lord. The rooms were
+very dirty and much neglected. The plants in his late garden seemed to
+droop their heads in sorrow for the loss of the hand that reared them.</p>
+
+<p>I next proceeded to the palace which had been sent from England, and
+really it would have reflected honour on the British nation, and no
+sovereign in the world need wish for a more magnificent one, had it
+been placed in a more healthy part of the island.</p>
+
+<p>We sailed for England on the 29th, and arrived on the 13th of
+September, 1821, after a speedy and pleasant passage.</p>
+
+
+<h3>THE END.</h3>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to India; of a
+Shipwreck on board the Lady Castlereagh; and a Description of New South Wales, by W. B. Cramp
+
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+</body>
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@@ -0,0 +1,2248 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to India; of a
+Shipwreck on board the Lady Castlereagh; and a Description of New South Wales, by W. B. Cramp
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Voyage to India; of a Shipwreck on board the Lady Castlereagh; and a Description of New South Wales
+
+Author: W. B. Cramp
+
+Release Date: November 1, 2008 [EBook #27113]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGE TO INDIA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sankar Viswanathan and The Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ NARRATIVE
+
+ OF A
+
+ VOYAGE TO INDIA;
+
+ OF A
+
+ SHIPWRECK
+
+ ON BOARD THE LADY CASTLEREAGH;
+
+ AND A
+
+ _DESCRIPTION OF NEW SOUTH WALES_.
+
+
+
+
+ BY W. B. CRAMP.
+
+
+
+
+ LONDON:
+
+ PRINTED FOR SIR RICHARD PHILLIPS AND Co. BRIDE-COURT, BRIDGE-STREET.
+
+ 1823.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+NARRATIVE
+
+OF A
+
+VOYAGE TO INDIA,
+
+&c. &c. &c.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+SECTION I.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND--DESCRIPTION OF THE
+ CEREMONY ON CROSSING THE EQUINOCTIAL LINE, AND HIS ARRIVAL
+ AT MADRAS.
+
+
+On the 8th or 9th of January, 1815, we proceeded, in the Princess
+Charlotte, Indiaman, to North-fleet Hope, and received on board our
+cargo. On February 28th, we sailed to Gravesend, in company with the
+Company's ships Ceres, Lady Melville, Rose, and Medcalfe, and arrived
+at the Downs on the 3d of March. Our dispatches not being expected for
+some time, we moored ship. Our time passed on very pleasantly till the
+27th inst., when the weather became rather boisterous, and accompanied
+by a heavy swell. On the evening of the 28th, as the Hon. Company's
+ship Tarva, from Bengal, was rounding the Foreland, she struck on the
+Goodwin Sands, and was forced to cut away her masts to lighten her,
+and get her clear off. The Ceres drifted almost on board us; we
+slipped our cables, and with difficulty escaped the Goodwin Sands.
+
+On the 1st of April the pursers joined their respective ships, and on
+the 3d we made sail with a fair breeze, and soon cleared the English
+channel. Nothing was now heard but confusion; the pilot having just
+left the ship, the hoarse voice of the captain resounded through a
+speaking trumpet, while the seamen were busy in making sail. We had a
+fine steady breeze till we made the Bay of Biscay, when we had a
+strong gale for three days.
+
+After the hurry and bustle of the gale was over, we had a fine steady
+breeze; I then began to feel an inward pleasure, and to rejoice in the
+predilection I had imbibed from my earliest years.
+
+We arrived on the equinoctial about eight o'clock in the evening of
+the 19th of April, when one of the oldest seamen is deputed Neptune;
+when he went into the head and hailed the ship in the usual form,
+Ship, hoa! ship, hoa! what ship is that? The chief officer replied,
+The Hon. Company's ship Princess Charlotte of Wales, and that he would
+be glad of his company on the morrow. Gladly would I have dispensed
+with it. On his quitting the vessel, as is supposed, a pitch cask was
+thrown overboard on fire, which had the appearance of a boat till lost
+to view.
+
+The next morning, about nine A. M., Neptune hailed the ship again,
+when he was invited on board (from the head). On the fore-part of the
+gang-way and after-part of the long-boat, a boom was placed across,
+and a tarpauling was hung in form of a curtain, so that when they were
+in readiness they took it down, and the procession moved on towards
+the cuddy, twelve of the officers walking in the front, two by two
+with staves (broomsticks); next followed Neptune's car, (a grating
+with a chair covered with sheep skins) with Neptune, and his wife and
+child, (a recruit's child, as we had 250 on board, of his majesty's
+46th regiment) Neptune bearing in his hand the granes with forks
+uppermost, and the representation of a dolphin on the middle prong,
+and Neptune's footman riding behind (barber) his carriage, dragged by
+the constables. The captain and officers came out to meet him, and
+presented him with a glass of gin, which was on this occasion termed
+wine. After the captain's health was drank, he desired them to proceed
+to business, and to make as much haste as possible; they then
+proceeded to the starboard gang-way, and Neptune placed himself upon
+his throne (on the boom, close to the long-boat and wash-deck tub) the
+slush tub being filled with balls, and lather made of slush, and the
+barber standing ready to begin his work with a razor made of a long
+piece of iron hoop well notched; the engine was brought on the quarter
+deck, and began to play, to force those below that had not crossed the
+line. I had not been long below before an officer from Neptune came to
+me, and demanded me, in his name to appear before him at the starboard
+gang-way, whose summons must not be disobeyed. On my arrival at the
+gang-way, the usual questions were asked me, whether I had been that
+way before? Without waiting for an answer they placed me on the
+wash-deck tub, and the barber rubbed me with the back of his razor and
+then let me go, upon my previously having given an order upon my
+bottle.
+
+I had hardly got upon the poop, when one of the men was brought upon
+deck who was neither beloved by the men nor officers; they then placed
+him upon the tub, and asked him several questions, and while he was in
+the act of answering them, they thrust some black balls into his
+mouth, and then rubbed his face and neck over with lather, and scraped
+it in an unmerciful manner till the blood run in several places; they
+next pushed him into the tub of water and kept him under for the space
+of a minute, which tended to smart and inflame the wounds. It was at
+least a fortnight before he could wash himself perfectly clean; but
+now several more shared the same fate. The sun was setting fast before
+the amusements of the day were finished. The clouds presented the most
+beautiful appearance, and the rippling of the sea, together with the
+flying fish, scudding along the surface of the water, afforded the
+mariner a great field of thought. At so grand a display of the great
+and wonderful works of God, what mortal can be unmoved, or deny the
+existence of a BEING which nature herself proclaims!
+
+The evening was very fine and beautifully star-light, and the moon
+shone with resplendent brightness. After the company had withdrawn to
+their evening refreshments, I amused myself with walking on the
+solitary poop. The sea appeared to be an immense plain, and presented
+a watery mirror to the skies. The infinite height above the firmament
+stretched its azure expanse, bespangled with unnumbered stars, and
+adorned with the moon '_walking in brightness_;' while the transparent
+surface both received and returned her silver image. Here, instead of
+being covered with sackcloth,[A] she shone with resplendent lustre; or
+rather with a lustre multiplied in proportion to the number of
+beholders.
+
+[Footnote A: I must be excused for the ideal extravagance of
+"clothing" this nocturnal luminary in "SACKCLOTH," on adverting to
+that unlimited flight of poetic imagination, which speaks of "_Heaven
+peeping through the blanket of the deep_." _Vide Shakspeare's
+Macbeth._]
+
+Such I think is the effect of exemplary behaviour in persons of
+exalted rank; their course as it is nobly distinguished, so it will be
+happily influential; others will catch the diffusive rays, and be
+ambitious to resemble a pattern so commanding. Their amiable qualities
+will not terminate in themselves, but we shall see them reflected in
+their families.
+
+My readers, I trust, will not wonder at my meditations on these
+sublunary objects, when they consider that they are the seaman's
+guide, and from them the greatest sources of nautical information are
+derived.
+
+In the midst of these pleasing reveries, I was aroused by the ship
+being taken a-back, the watch being completely intoxicated, and it was
+only with difficulty that they could do their duty. Nothing material
+happened till our arrival at the Cape, when we experienced a severe
+gale for three days. The sea being heavy, she pitched her portals
+under water. We were running at the rate of ten knots per hour, under
+bare poles; and we soon after made the trade winds.
+
+On the 23d of June we arrived in Madras roads; from the deck the view
+of the land has a magnificent appearance; the different offices have,
+to the beholder, the appearance of stone, and they are formed along
+the beach in a beautiful manner; they are built with piazzas and
+verandahs, and they extend about one mile along a sandy beach, while
+the natives parading along the shore, and the surf spraying upon the
+beach, gave the scene a very picturesque appearance. The surf beats
+here with so much violence that it is impossible for any ship's boats
+to land without being dashed to pieces.
+
+On our making land we espied a small craft, called a kattamaran,
+making towards us; it was manned with two of the natives naked, except
+a handkerchief round their waist, and a straw round cap (turban) made
+with a partition in it to keep letters dry. This bark is made of three
+long hulls of trees, about ten or twelve feet in length, tied together
+with a rope so as to make in the centre a little hollow; they sit upon
+their knees in the centre, and have a long flat piece of wood, about
+five feet in length and five inches in width, which they hold in the
+centre, and keep continually in motion, first on one side and then on
+the other, and in that manner they force the kattamaran swiftly
+through the water.
+
+It is very remarkable that these poor creatures risk themselves
+through the surf for a mere trifle, to carry letters for the different
+commanders to their respective vessels, at a time when the surf is at
+a dreadful height. When these poor fellows lay themselves flat on the
+kattamaran, and then trust themselves to the mercy of the surf, they
+are often driven back with great force, and they as often venture
+again, till they effect their purpose. They generally get their living
+by fishing, which is done by hook and line, and they offer them
+alongside the different ships for sale.
+
+For two days the surf being so violent no boats could come off; but
+early on the third morning there were several came off with debashees
+(merchants) on board. They brought such things as might be wanted by
+the ship's company and officers. Their boats are made to carry
+passengers and cargo. There is not a vestige of a nail to be seen in
+them, their seams, instead of being nailed, are sewed together with
+coir rope; and they are generally manned with six or eight men.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION II.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS AND ARRIVAL AT
+ BENGAL--DEPARTURE THEREFROM--HIS VESSEL RUNS ASHORE ON THE
+ PULICAT SHOALS, AND GETS SAFE AFLOAT AGAIN, AFTER BEATING
+ SIX HOURS AND FORTY MINUTES--HIS SAFE ARRIVAL AT MADRAS, AND
+ DESCRIPTION OF THE DIVERS--ARRIVAL AT BOMBAY--THE SHIP BEING
+ DOCKED, THE AUTHOR IS SENT TO BUTCHER'S ISLAND WITH THE
+ SHIP'S COMPANY--A DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF
+ ELEPHANTA--HIS JOINING THE SHIP AFTER HER LEAVING THE
+ DOCK--HIS WORDS WITH HIS COMMANDER, AND BEING TURNED BEFORE
+ THE MAST IN CONSEQUENCE--HIS DEPARTURE FROM BOMBAY, AND
+ AFTER A SHORT PERIOD HE IS REPLACED IN HIS FORMER
+ SITUATION--AND ARRIVES AT MADRAS.
+
+
+We sailed from Madras, August 23d, and arrived at Bengal on the 30th.
+The scenery on the entrance up the river was indeed sublime, and
+inspired us with a sensation of gratitude to the Giver of all good. I
+went up to Calcutta with a craft of cargo; but having been sent down
+immediately, I could form no idea of the place.
+
+On the 20th December we sailed from Bengal bound to Madras, in company
+with the Honourable Company's ship Marquis of Wellington. We kept
+a-head of her on the morning of the 25th, till she was almost mast
+down, and expected to bring-to about twelve o'clock in the Madras
+roads; but our expectations were greatly damped by the following
+circumstances:--At 8 A. M. the ship struck on the Pulicat rocks with
+such great violence, as to knock almost every man off his legs; the
+lead was immediately called, which, to the disgrace of some one, was
+not on deck; in the course of two minutes she struck again with as
+much violence as before; sail was immediately taken in, and after
+sounding, we found we drew about three and a half feet water. We then
+made signal of distress, by hoisting the ensign union downwards, and
+firing a gun. The Marquis of Wellington by this time hove in sight;
+all was confusion and consternation, the ship having beat several
+times with great violence. The Wellington hove to, and sent their
+cutter with four men and a second mate to our assistance, and then
+made sail and passed us, without rendering us any other assistance.
+The pinnace and long-boats, booms and spars, were immediately sent
+over the side, and the kedge-anchor was placed in the long-boat; but
+she leaked so very fast, that with all the united efforts of the
+seamen they could not keep her above water.
+
+The weather was now very cloudy and black, and threatened a severe
+gale; so that our present situation became very disagreeable, as no
+assistance could be rendered us off shore, should necessity require
+it. But owing to the exertions of the officers and men, we effectually
+swung her head to the wind, which was blowing strong from the shore,
+and by 7 P. M. we anchored safe in the roads.
+
+On the following morning we were busily employed in discharging our
+cargo and sending it on board its destined ships, (Honourable
+Company's ships Stratham and Rose.) After our clearance, the divers
+were expected from off shore, to examine the damage the ship's bottom
+had received; but, owing to the inclemency of the weather, it was
+impossible for them to get off from shore.
+
+A seaman on board, by birth a West Indian, engaged to dive under the
+ship's bottom, and to acquaint us with the state of it, which was
+gladly accepted. In his youth he had been a fisherman on the coast of
+the island of Jamaica: the weather being rough, it was thought unsafe
+for him to venture; but on the following morning, it being quite calm,
+he prepared himself for his expedition: after he had jumped overboard,
+he walked, or rather trod water, round the ship; he informed us the
+copper was much battered above water, and in many places whole sheets
+of it were broken off; and after he had made us perfectly acquainted
+with the damages we had received above, he dived under her counter,
+and abreast of the after, main, and fore hatchways;--when he came on
+board, he informed us, that about twelve feet of our false-keel was
+knocked off, and about six feet of our copper abreast of the
+main-hatchway, besides a quantity of copper in different places, all
+of which we found to be true after we were docked.
+
+We received considerable damage on board; the bolts were started from
+her side about three inches, and the main-beams sprung. Three days
+after he had dived, the captain came on board with two native divers,
+and several officers of the different vessels lying in the roads, to
+survey the ship. When they went under they brought up the same
+account as our man had first given. After about an hour's
+consultation, our ship was ordered to Bombay to be docked, it being
+the most convenient one for a ship of our burden. In a few days after
+we proceeded on our passage, and arrived in safety, keeping the pumps
+in continual motion during our passage.
+
+The Island of Bombay is situated on the west coast of the ocean, and
+one of the three Presidencies belonging to the Honourable East India
+Company, and is in Lat. 18 deg. 55' N. and Lon. 72 deg. 54' E. of Greenwich.
+As soon as we had discharged all our cargo, and the ship was docked,
+the ship's company and officers were sent to Butcher's Island.
+
+Butcher's Island is a small island situated about four miles and a
+half to the westward of Bombay, and is in circumference about one mile
+and a half, and has been a very formidable garrison. In the centre is
+a small fort and two barracks, the latter we took possession of for
+the ship's company. Soon after our landing on the island, a party of
+us went over to the Island of Elephanta.
+
+The Island of _Elephanta_ is about one mile and a half to the west of
+Butcher's Island, and is inhabited by 100 poor Indian families. It
+contains one of the most stupendous antiquities in the world: the
+figure of an elephant of the natural size, cut coarsely in black
+stone, appears in an open plain, near the landing place, from which an
+easy slope leads to an immense subterraneous cavern, hewn out of the
+solid rock, eighty or ninety feet long and forty broad, the roof of
+which is cut flat, and supported by regular rows of pillars, about ten
+feet high, with capitals resembling round cushions, and at the farther
+end of it are three gigantic figures, mutilated by the bigoted zeal of
+the Portuguese, when this island was in their possession. After
+spending the day very pleasantly we returned.
+
+The Sergeant (an old invalid) who had charge of the fort, had a
+beautiful little garden; thither in the morning I frequently resorted,
+to enjoy one of the most charming pieces of morning scenery that I had
+ever witnessed.
+
+ "Awake! the morning shines, and the fresh fields
+ Call you; ye lose the prime to mark how spring
+ The tender plants; how blows the citron grove;
+ What drops the myrrh, and what the balmy reed;
+ How nature paints her colours; how the bee
+ Sits on the bloom, extracting liquid sweets."
+
+ MILTON'S PARADISE LOST.
+
+How delightful this fragrance. It is distributed in the nicest
+proportion; neither so strong as to depress the organs, nor so faint
+as to elude them. We are soon cloyed at a sumptuous banquet, but this
+pleasure never loses its poignancy, never palls the appetite; here
+luxury itself is innocent; or rather, in this case, indulgence is not
+capable of excess. Our amusements for the forenoon were our nautical
+studies, and in the afternoon officers and men joined in cricket. In
+the evening, after my duty of the day was dispatched, and the sultry
+heats were abated, I enjoyed the recreation of a walk in one of the
+finest recesses of the Island, and in one of the pleasantest evenings
+which the season produced.
+
+The trees uniting their branches over my head, formed a verdant
+canopy, and cast a most refreshing shade; under my feet lay a carpet
+of Nature's velvet; grass intermingled with moss, and embroidered with
+the evening dew; jessamines, united with woodbines, twined around the
+trees, displaying their artless beauties to the eye, and diffusing
+their delicious sweets through the air. On either side, the boughs
+rounding into a set of regular arches, opened a view into the distant
+seas, and presented a prospect of the convex heavens. The little birds
+all joyous and grateful for the favours of the light, were paying
+their acknowledgments in a tribute of harmony, and soothing themselves
+to rest with songs. All these beauties of Nature were for a while
+withdrawn. The stars served to alleviate the frown of night, rather
+than to recover the objects from their obscurity. A faint ray scarcely
+reflected, and only gave the straining eye a very imperfect glimpse.
+
+The day following that the ship came out of dock we joined her. Our
+labours were now unremitted, to get her in readiness for sea. Amidst
+all our exertions it was impossible to give any satisfaction; our
+chief mate was very arbitrary, and vented his spleen upon the
+defenceless midshipmen, besides making the backs of the poor seamen
+sore with _starting_. Starting is a term used for rope's-ending a man,
+or otherwise laying a _Point_ severely across their shoulders till
+they have not the strength to wield it any longer; a point is a flat
+platted rope, made for the purpose of taking in reefs, or otherwise to
+fasten the sail upon the yards.
+
+At length my life became so truly miserable, that I was determined in
+my own mind not to endure it, if there was any possibility of avoiding
+it. For that purpose I wrote on board his Majesty's frigate,
+Revolutionnaire, for a situation, when Captain Wolcombe generously
+offered me one, provided I could get permission of Captain Craig to
+leave my present ship. I was at length forced to leave Bombay,
+through this and other circumstances.
+
+On our arrival at Madras every preparation was made for receiving our
+cargo on board, which was speedily done, and in a short time was ready
+for sea.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION III.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS, DESCRIPTION OF A
+ WATER-SPOUT--HIS ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA AND DEPARTURE
+ THEREFROM, ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND--JOINS HIS MAJESTY'S TRANSPORT
+ SHIP, TOTTENHAM, BOUND FOR NEW SOUTH WALES--HER RUNNING ON
+ SHORE IN THE RIVER AND PUTTING BACK TO DOCK--HE AFTERWARDS
+ JOINS HIS MAJESTY'S TRANSPORT SHIP, LADY CASTLEREAGH. HIS
+ DEPARTURE FROM DEPTFORD AND ARRIVAL AT PORTSMOUTH--HIS
+ DEPARTURE THEREFROM AND ARRIVAL AT NEW SOUTH WALES.
+
+
+As soon as our dispatches were in readiness, we proceeded on our
+passage for England; the morning was beautiful, and as the men were
+heaving up the anchor, my heart felt an inward sensation of joy and
+gratitude to our Creator, that he had been pleased to bring us so far
+safe on our voyage; we made sail with a steady breeze, and soon lost
+sight of land. After we had been at sea about two days, close on our
+weather-bow we observed a water-spout; when we first saw it, it was
+whole and entire, and was in shape like a speaking trumpet, the small
+end downwards, and reaching to the sea, and the large end terminating
+in a black thick cloud: the spout itself was very black, and the more
+so the higher up; it seemed to be exactly perpendicular to the
+horizon, and its sides perfectly smooth, without the least ruggedness
+where it fell. The spray of the sea rose to a considerable height,
+which had somewhat the appearance of smoke; from the first time we saw
+it, it continued whole about a minute, and till it was quite
+dissipated three minutes; it began to waste from below, and gradually
+up, while the upper part remained entire, without any visible
+alteration, till at last it ended in black clouds, upon which a heavy
+rain fell in the neighbourhood. There was but little wind, and the sky
+was otherwise serene.
+
+On our rounding the Cape we experienced a very heavy gale, which
+continued for the space of ten days. We arrived at St. Helena in about
+ten days after clearing the Cape of Good Hope.
+
+The approach to this Island is tremendous, it being an immense large
+rock in the midst of the sea, on which there is not the least
+appearance of verdure, houses, or indeed any sign of inhabitants, till
+you arrive at the anchorage, which is to leeward of the Island; and in
+turning round the corner of the rock is a fort, close to the water's
+edge, from whence they make all ship's heave to, till they have sent a
+boat on board from the Admiral; and in case no attention is paid to
+their signal, they fire a shot. After proceeding a little way, the
+town is discovered in the midst of a valley, and has a very
+picturesque appearance.
+
+The produce of the Island is potatoes and yams. The yams are used in
+time of great scarcity of wheat, for bread; the inhabitants are under
+the necessity of boiling them 12 hours and baking them, before they
+can eat them; and in fact, many of the Islanders prefer them to bread.
+The coast produces an amazing quantity of fish, particularly mackarel,
+which are in great abundance, and run in shoals about six fathom under
+water. At this time Napoleon resided at Longwood.
+
+After staying here 12 days, we proceeded on our passage to England,
+and arrived there in six weeks and two days.--The distressed state of
+England, and scarcity of employment determined me again to try my
+fortune abroad, and for that purpose I made several applications to
+the different owners, but for some time was very unsuccessful. At
+length I was engaged by Messrs. Robinson, to join his Majesty's Ship
+Tottenham, bound to New South Wales with 200 convicts. On June the 8th
+I joined her. After receiving all the ship's and government stores on
+board, we proceeded to Woolwich, and received on board 50 of our
+number, and in the afternoon of the same day we made sail, and on a
+sudden struck on a reef at low water; we were lying high and dry;
+every means was used to get her off, but without success, till we sent
+our convicts up to the hulks, and discharged our stores into the
+different crafts sent for that purpose, and by that means lightened
+her so, that at the flood she drifted; she was so materially damaged,
+it was deemed necessary she should return back to Deptford to Dock.
+
+I had not waited long in London, before another vacancy occurred on
+board His Majesty's Transport Ship Lady Castlereagh, lying at
+Deptford, bound to the same Port. Shortly after I had joined her, we
+sailed to Woolwich, and received on board our guard, which was
+composed of a detachment of his Majesty's 46th regiment of foot, and
+after receiving a portion of our convicts, we proceeded on our passage
+to Portsmouth: we received another portion from Sheerness, and in two
+days arrived at Portsmouth. The remainder of our prisoners not being
+in readiness, we were forced to bring up and moor ship a cable each
+way.
+
+Spithead is a spacious road for shipping, between Portsmouth and the
+Isle of Wight, and where they in general lie after they are in
+readiness for sea. I went on shore to see the town of Portsmouth. It
+is situated inland of Portsea; the streets are generally narrow, and
+rather dirty, owing to their not being properly paved.
+
+The Dock-yards, as there are several, resemble distinct towns, and are
+under a government separate from the garrison. Here is a commodious
+arsenal for laying up cannon, and the fortress may be justly
+considered as the most regular one in Great Britain. The number of men
+employed in the different rope-yards generally is considered to be
+between eight or nine hundred, and the garrison is very large. The
+town of Portsmouth contains about 40,000 inhabitants, and the harbour
+is reckoned one of the finest in the world, as there is water
+sufficient for the largest ships, and is so very capacious that the
+whole of the British navy may ride in safety. The principal branch run
+up to Fareham, a second to Pouchester and a third to Portsea Bridge;
+besides these channels there are several rithes, or channels, where
+the small men of war lie at their moorings. Opposite the town is the
+spacious road of Spithead. On the 20th of December we received our
+convicts, and the following day we made sail and passed through the
+Needles, which are two sharp-pointed rocks at the N. W. end of the
+Isle of Wight, so called from their sharp extremities.
+
+The prisoners, during their voyage, behaved themselves with great
+propriety, considering the variety of characters which we had on
+board. We arrived at New South Wales on the 26th of April, 1818, after
+a pleasant passage.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION IV.
+
+ DESCRIPTION OF NEW SOUTH WALES--DEPARTURE THEREFROM--ARRIVAL
+ AT VAN DIEMAN'S LAND.
+
+
+We now made for the eastern coast of New Holland, southward of Port
+Jackson; the coast has a most beautiful appearance, being constantly
+green during the year. From the south cape, about five leagues to the
+northward, is a most spacious bay with good anchorage, and sheltered
+from all winds. The natives are very ferocious; few vessels put in
+without partially suffering by their depredations, particularly seamen
+who, having ventured from their parties, have been by them cut off,
+robbed, and murdered. This place is called Two-fold Bay; ten leagues
+farther north is Bateman's Bay. Here is good anchorage and plenty of
+fresh water, but it lies open to the E. N. E. winds, and when they
+prevail they are accompanied by a heavy swell, so that it is
+impossible for vessels to lie secure. Seventeen leagues farther north
+is Jervis's Bay, and an excellent harbour and good shelter from all
+winds, with a fine sandy bottom. Round two small islands, at the mouth
+of the bay, there are two very large kinds of fish, which are caught
+in abundance with hook and line, called king fish and snappers.
+
+The next harbour to the northward is Botany Bay, which is a capacious
+bay, with excellent anchorage for shipping; but the entrance is very
+dangerous to those commanders who are strangers to the coast. At the
+head of the bay is George's River, which extends about sixty miles up
+the country, and is navigable for small vessels of about 40 tons
+burden; on the banks of this river there are several settlements,
+which I shall hereafter describe. Nine miles farther north are the
+heads of Port Jackson; on approaching the heads from sea, the entrance
+is so narrow, and the rocks so perpendicular, that the opening is not
+perceivable at a distance.
+
+On the south head is a look-out house, and a flag staff, on which a
+yellow flag is hoisted on the approach of any vessels from sea, which
+is answered by another signal staff on a battery at the north end of
+the town, called Davis's Point Battery, which is to be seen from all
+parts of the town, so that a vessel is known to be approaching before
+she enters the port. After entering the heads, the river runs due
+south for six miles, it then turns short round a point of land on the
+north shore, called Bradley's Head, which runs due west for
+twenty-four miles. After rounding Bradley's Head, the town of Sydney
+is perceivable, about three miles distant on the south shore. The
+anchorage is a small cove, as still as a mill-pond, land-locked around
+on all sides; the principal buildings in view are the stores and
+dwelling of Mr. Campbell, a Bengal merchant; they are built of white
+stone and have a noble appearance: the next is the government stores,
+a large stone building, at the end of which is the hospital, wharf,
+and stairs, the only public-landing place in the cove; here are two
+centinels continually parading the quay. From the landing place is a
+fine wide street, called George Street, with several fine stone and
+brick buildings, extending a mile and a half long, and joining the
+race ground. The public buildings in this line are the governor's
+secretary's office, an orphan school for female children, and the
+military barracks, with many fine private buildings, shops, &c. On the
+S. E. side of the cove is the government house, a low but very
+extensive building, surrounded with verandahs, and built in the
+eastern style, with an extensive park and garden surrounded with a
+high stone wall. About a quarter of a mile south of the government
+house is the general hospital, a large and extensive building, erected
+without any expense to government, the whole having been completed and
+paid for by three private gentlemen of the colony, for the grant of
+certain privileges. One mile further S. E. is Wallamolla, a fine brick
+and stone mansion, the property and dwelling house of John Palmer,
+Esq., formerly Commandant-general of the colony.
+
+Between the general hospital and Wallamolla is the race ground, a fine
+level course three miles long, planned and laid out after the model of
+Doncaster race course, by order of his excellency Lochlin Macquarie.
+The races commence on the 12th of August, and last three days, during
+which time the convicts are exempt from all government duties.
+Convicts that are placed in the town of Sydney are in many respects
+happier than those farther inland; those who are employed in the
+service of government are under the inspection of the superintendent
+of the public works; they assemble at the ringing of a bell, in the
+government-yard, soon after day-light, and are mustered by their
+respective overseers and conducted to their work by them, having
+received their orders from the superintendent on the preceding
+evening. The overseers are themselves convicts of good character, and
+perfect masters of their different trades. They labour from day-light
+until nine o'clock, and they have then one hour allowed them to
+breakfast, then they return and work till three in the afternoon, and
+from that time they are at liberty to work for whom they think proper.
+
+On leaving Sydney, the next settlement is Rose Hill, or, called by the
+natives, Paramatta, and it is situated due west up the river. Between
+Sydney and Paramatta there is but one settlement, about half way,
+which is called Kissing Point, and close on its banks is a large farm,
+kept by Mr. Squires, who likewise carries on an extensive brewery. The
+principal edifice at Paramatta is the government stores, a large stone
+building; close to the landing-place, and leading into the town, is a
+street about a mile long. They are generally small cottages, and are
+mostly inhabited by the convicts; and to each is attached a small
+garden, which they are compelled to keep in good order.
+
+There is also a large manufactory of flax, the produce of the country,
+of which they make coarse cloth of different descriptions. This town
+is under the direction of the bishop of New South Wales (Samuel
+Marsden) and is the place where the noted George Barrington resided
+many years as chief constable, and died in the year 1806, highly
+respected by the principal men of the colony. At eight miles distance,
+in a westerly direction, is the village of Galba, which is a very
+fertile soil, the farms being in high cultivation, the ground clear of
+timber, and numbers of sheep and oxen seen grazing in its fields. Two
+miles south of Galba is the village of Castle Hills, in appearance
+resembling Galba; and a number of farm houses scattered about as far
+as the eye can reach. About fourteen miles, in a S. E. direction, is
+the town of Liverpool, on the banks of George's River; here
+cultivation is making rapid progress; and on each side of the river
+are numerous farms, till the traveller arrives at its termination.
+From George's River a branch runs in a N. W. direction, is about
+twenty miles in length, and is called the Nepean River. Here the eye
+of the agriculturist would be highly delighted at the verdure that
+constantly appears in view; the farms are but thinly dispersed, as the
+Nepean is not navigable.
+
+At the extremity of the Nepean is the most extensive tract of land
+that has yet been discovered. This tract is laid out in pastures,
+which are literally covered with wild cattle, the produce of six cows
+and a bull which escaped from the colony about forty years ago. They
+were discovered by a runaway convict, who returned to the settlement
+and reported his discovery, for which they pardoned him his crime of
+desertion. After leaving the cow pastures, due north is the town of
+Windsor, the most productive place in the colony for grain of every
+description, which is brought to be shipped on the River Hawksborough,
+in small crafts for that purpose. Windsor is sixty miles from Sydney,
+and the river is navigable all the way from the sea; its entrance is
+called Broken Bay, and is fourteen miles north of Port Jackson, and
+thirty miles north of Broken Bay.
+
+The town of Newcastle is situated about seven miles up the river,
+called the Coal River, in consequence of coals being found there in
+great abundance, of very good quality. This town is a place where all
+are sent to that prove refractory, or commit any crimes or
+misdemeanors in the colony, and is much dreaded by the convicts as a
+place of punishment.
+
+Newcastle is the last settlement to the northward of Sydney; the
+natives are black, and appear to be a most miserable race of people:
+they live entirely naked, both men, women, and children, and they
+possess not the least shame. They carry fish and game to the different
+towns and villages inhabited by the English, which they barter for
+bread, tobacco, or spirits; they are, in general, of a light make,
+straight limbed, with curly black hair, and their face, arms, legs,
+and backs are usually besmeared with white chalk and red ochre. The
+cartilage of their nose is perforated, and a piece of reed, from eight
+to ten inches long, thrust through it, which seamen whimsically term
+their spritsail-yard. They seem to have no kind of religion; they bury
+their dead under ground, and they live in distinct clans, by the terms
+Gull, Taury Gull, or Uroga Gull, &c. They are very expert with their
+implements of war, which are spears made of reed, pointed with crystal
+or fish bone; they have a short club made of iron wood, called a
+waday, and a scimeter made of the same wood. Those inhabiting the
+coast have canoes; but the largest I ever saw would not hold more than
+two men with safety.
+
+Their marriage ceremony is truly romantic; all the youth of a clan
+assemble, and are each armed with wadays; they then surround the young
+woman, and one seizes her by the arm, he is immediately attacked by
+another, and so on till he finds no combatant on the field, and then
+the conquering hero takes her to his arms.
+
+The different kinds of game which the colony produces, are several
+kinds of kangaroos, of the same species, but differing in size and
+colour. Beasts of prey have never been seen in the colony. The birds
+are, parrots, cockatoos, and a large one called _emus_, which have
+very long legs and scarcely any wings; they in general live upon fern,
+and weigh from seventy to eighty pounds; there are likewise a number
+of black swans. The woods abound with a number of dangerous reptiles,
+such as centipedes and scorpions.
+
+Government not being disposed to receive all our convicts, we were
+taken up to proceed to Van Diemen's Land, with a crew of two hundred
+convicts, besides a detachment of one hundred and sixty rank and file
+of his Majesty's 46th regiment of foot. We sailed from hence, and
+arrived at Van Diemen's Land after a pleasant passage of six days.
+
+Van Diemen's Land is situated south of the Cape of New Holland, and is
+a dependency under the control of the Governor-General. Here is a
+Deputy-Governor, who resides at the principal town, called Hobart's
+Town, situated about thirty miles up the Derwent; it is a town at
+present consisting of small cottages, or huts, built of wood, and with
+but few free inhabitants. The soil of the country is good; but there
+is a very inconsiderable trade. The Derwent runs ninety miles due west
+up the country. North of the Derwent, about twenty miles, is Frederick
+Henry's Bay, an immense deep bay, with good anchorage and shelter for
+shipping; and north-west of Henry's Bay is another fine river, called
+Port Dalrymple; it runs south-west ninety miles inland; at the head of
+it is a town, called Launceston; the inhabitants are principally
+convicts, and are employed in clearing the land for government. The
+native inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land are nearly the same as those
+of New Holland; and they at present hold no intercourse with the
+European inhabitants. After our prisoners were received on shore, they
+sent us another detachment of 150 rank and file of his Majesty's 46th
+regiment for Madras, and we began to prepare for sea.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION V.
+
+ DEPARTURE FROM VAN DIEMEN'S LAND AND ARRIVAL AT MADRAS--AN
+ ACCOUNT OF A SEVERE GALE, AND THE GREAT DANGER OF SHIPWRECK,
+ TOGETHER WITH HER WONDERFUL ESCAPE FROM IT, AND HER SAFE
+ ARRIVAL IN CUDDALORE.
+
+
+The morning was beautiful, and the noise of the crew weighing the
+anchor, created much life and bustle; and as we proceeded out of the
+harbour Nature seemed to smile, and bid us welcome to the watery
+element we had been so long traversing. A few days after, we entered
+the Endeavour Straits, which are about ten leagues long and five
+broad. We had several canoes off from the shore of New Guinea. It is a
+long narrow island of the South Pacific Ocean, and north of New
+Holland, from which it is separated by this strait, except on the
+north-east entrance, where it is counteracted by a group of islands,
+called the Prince of Wales's Islands. The land is generally low, and
+covered with an astonishing luxuriance of wood and herbage. The
+inhabitants resemble those of New Holland, omitting the quantity of
+grease and red-ochre with which the New Hollanders besmear their
+skins.
+
+Their canoes are neatly carved, and are about twelve feet in length;
+they have outriggers to keep them firm on the water, and they are
+formed out of the hulls of trees; they carry about five or six men.
+They brought on board a quantity of shells, bows, arrows, and clubs,
+besides other trifling articles, and they would exchange with us for
+bits of old iron-hoops, or in fact any old thing, however trifling.
+The breeze freshening, we soon lost sight of the native merchants.
+
+We arrived at Madras on the 12th of September, 1818, after a tedious
+passage. Owing to General Munro's intended departure for England, our
+cargo was immediately got ready, and as expeditiously received by us,
+and we were ready for sea on the 20th of October; but our dispatches
+not being in readiness, we were forced to remain at our anchorage, and
+on the morning of the 24th the clouds looked very black, and
+threatened a severe storm; but no preparations were made on board, and
+at 4 P. M. signal was made from the shore for all ships to leave the
+roads, which unfortunately was not noticed by many of the officers of
+the different vessels. At 5 P. M. the gale commenced; but through
+neglect the royal and top-gallant yards were not sent down, nor could
+the officer commanding be persuaded that any danger would arise from
+remaining at our anchorage; the ship's company now came aft and
+expostulated; but the officer in command called them all cowards, and
+said he would not start her anchor if it blew the masts out of her.
+
+About 2 A. M. on the 25th, the gale commenced with the utmost fury,
+and she rode her scuttles under water, but as they were not secure,
+the sea came inboard and made very fast upon us. At 6 A. M. the water
+was three feet on the lee-side of our gun-deck, and from the continual
+working of the ship the chests broke from their fastenings.
+
+After seeing a vessel go down at her anchors close on our starboard
+bow, the officer then gave orders for our cable to be slipped, which
+was immediately put into execution. John Gardener, a seaman, wishing
+to go aloft, and not taking proper hold, was blown from the rigging,
+and never seen again. We set the fore-sail, which immediately split;
+the mainsail, met with the same fate; the gaskets of the topsails gave
+way, and the sails split. At half past eight we found we had sprung a
+leak, owing to the ship's labouring so much; in the course of ten
+minutes we sounded, and found three feet water in the hold. The pumps
+were choaked; by 9 A. M. they were cleared, and by this time we had
+eight feet water in the well, and three on the gun-deck; the ship
+rolled very much, and the chests, guns, and water-casks, being all
+cast adrift, were dashing from larboard to starboard with the greatest
+fury. At 10 A. M. the ship labouring so much, and her being eight
+streaks of her main-deck under water, abreast of her main-hatchway, so
+that we had very little prospect of her living two minutes above
+water, it was thought necessary to send her mizen-mast by the board,
+in order to righten her; but while going, the mizen-mast heeled to
+windward and caught her royal-yards in the top-sail tye, and stayed
+her so, that we were compelled to cut away the main-mast, which
+carried the fore-top-mast and jib-boom; and, while in the act of going
+by the board, it knocked an invalid down and killed him on the spot.
+The ship rightened a little; but the sea was very boisterous, and we
+appeared to be in a valley in the midst of a number of tremendous high
+mountains, which to all appearance seemed ready to fall and crush us.
+The carpenter came forward, and informed us, that we had sprung
+another leak, and that we had ten feet water in the well; the men, as
+by one accord, dropped the pumps, and appeared to despair; we might
+all have well exclaimed with the poet,
+
+ "Heaven have mercy here upon us!
+ For only that can save us now."
+
+"The atmosphere was hurled into the most tremendous confusion, the
+aerial torment burst itself over mountains, seas, and continents. All
+things felt the dreadful shock; all things trembled under her scourge,
+her sturdy sons were strained to the very nerves, and almost swept her
+headlong to the deep."
+
+It would be in vain to attempt to give a description of our feelings
+at this critical moment, tortured as we were with anguish and despair.
+Every man seemed now as if all was given over for lost, when the
+carpenter came forward and informed us the leak was found out, and
+that with a little exertion it might be stopped; the men then rose
+with great vigour, flew to the pumps with renovated strength, and gave
+three cheers. The cabins were all washed down, and a party of men were
+busily employed throwing every thing overboard,--self was not
+considered,--the very last rag was committed to the furious elements
+without a sigh. At 11 A. M. the sea struck her starboard
+quarter-gallery and forced it from its birth, and as we were busily
+employed, a cry was heard, the starboard fore-mast port was carried
+away, and the sea forced itself with great rapidity along the deck;
+but the seamen flew to meet this new misfortune with the vigour of
+tigers, not considering the dangers they had to encounter, and thus
+effectually succeeded in stopping the leak.
+
+While the seamen were busily employed, the troops were desired to
+pump, which they firmly refused, and said they would sooner sink,
+except a poor blind man, who could not keep from them; his reply was
+truly noble, and, I am sure, my readers will excuse my repeating it.
+"I am unworthy of the life I have if I do not exert myself in this
+hour of distress; if it has pleased God to deprive me of the blessing
+of sight, he has not of the feelings of a Christian." At half past
+eleven the gale greatly abated, and by this time the carpenter had
+stopped the leak, by using all the gunny bags and blankets that could
+be found; the damage was occasioned by the masts beating under her
+counter. By 12 A. M. it was a perfect calm; the men were now busily
+employed clearing the gun-deck, and securing every port-hole and
+scuttle in which they effectually succeeded by 1 P. M.
+
+"For a moment the turbulent and outrageous sky seemed to be assuaged;
+but it intermitted its wrath only to increase its strength; soon the
+sounding squadrons of the air returned to their attack, and renewed
+their ravages with redoubled fury; and the stately dome rocked amidst
+the wheeling clouds. The impregnable clouds tottered on its basis, and
+threatened to overwhelm those whom it was intended to protect, the
+vessel was almost rent in pieces, and scarcely secure; where then was
+a place of safety? Sleep affrighted flew, diversion was turned into
+horror; all was uproar in the elements; all was consternation among
+us, and nothing was seen but one wide picture of rueful devastation.
+
+"The ocean swelled with tremendous commotions; the ponderous waves
+were heaved from their capacious beds, and almost lay bare the
+unfathomed deep; flung into the most rapid agitation, they swept over
+us, and tossed themselves into the clouds. We were rent from our
+anchors, and with all our enormous load were whirled swift as an arrow
+along the vast abyss. Now we climb the rolling mountains, we plough
+the frightful ridge, and seem to skim the skies; anon we plunge into
+the opening gulf, we reel to and fro, and stagger in the jarring
+decks, or climb the cordage, whilst bursting seas foam over the decks.
+Despair is in every face, and death sits threatening in every surge."
+The whistling of the wind and roaring of the sea, together with the
+voice of despairing seamen, and the dreadful shrieks of the women,
+made us truly miserable; but we were forced to exert ourselves with
+assumed courage and vigour, which could only be imagined but by those
+placed in a similar situation,--our exertions were for life or death,
+knowing that if they once failed, that nothing was to be expected but
+to perish in a watery grave.
+
+We kept the water under to about three feet during the time of this
+dreadful gale; about 4 P. M. it abated, and about 5 P. M. it blew a
+steady breeze from the south-west; and at 6 P. M. we went round her to
+examine the damage we had sustained; when, dreadful to relate, we
+found that a man and child had been washed out of their hammocks and
+perished; on proceeding along the waste we found two invalids had been
+jammed to death between two water-casks and the ship's sides, making a
+total of six lives lost during the storm.
+
+The hatches were opened about 8 P. M.; but the provisions being so
+salt and sodden with the sea water, they could not be eaten, on
+account of the scarcity of fresh water. After the watch was set we
+laid ourselves down upon the upper-deck with no other covering than
+the starry heavens.
+
+On the following day we commenced clearing the wreck, and rigging up
+jurymasts, which we happily effected before sun-set; and on the 28th
+we arrived at Sadras, which lay south by west of Madras, distant
+fifteen miles. We lay here till the 30th without any tidings of the
+captain.
+
+The men from fatigue and pain, from sleeping on the wet decks, and
+continual pumping, came aft, and said the clouds threatened another
+storm, and that the monsoons were growing very strong, and in case the
+weather should alter for the worse, they had not strength left to
+work the ship in another gale, from want of nourishment; and that
+provided the officers did not think proper to remove to a place of
+safety, they were determined to take charge of her and proceed to
+Trincomalee, and deliver the vessel into the hands of the
+under-writers. All our remonstrances to them were in vain, until the
+chief mate pledged his word and honour, that if the captain did not
+join her the next morning, he would, ill as he was, take charge of her
+and proceed there himself.
+
+On the following morning the captain joined her, with the hon. L. G.
+K. Murray, secretary to the board of trade at Madras, when they
+brought on board a quantity of provisions, which we stood very much in
+need of, and immediately made sail and arrived the same day at
+Pondicherry. The governor sent us on board a new anchor, as our own
+was sprung. Pondicherry is a town of Hindostan, under the French
+government, and situated on the coast of Coromandel, seventy-five
+miles S. S. W. of Madras.
+
+On the following day we run into Cuddalore, a little above the first
+bar. Cuddalore is a town of Hindostan, one hundred miles S. S. W. of
+Madras. Thirty of the ship's company being sick, they, with me, were
+compelled to leave the ship, and forced to proceed on shore to the
+hospital. I was about this time seized with a violent fit of the
+cholera morbus. It is supposed to originate from the cold damp airs
+which are very prevalent at this time of the season. A gentleman's
+bungalow was humanely given up as a hospital, or friendly receptacle,
+for our incapacitated seamen, during our sojourn at Cuddalore.
+
+The possibility of visiting the native town was precluded by the
+peculiar strictness of the regulations imposed upon us.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VI.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CUDDALORE AND ARRIVAL AT
+ PONDICHERRY--DEPARTURE THEREFROM, AND ARRIVAL AT MADRAS,
+ WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME--ACCOUNT OF THE RELIGION,
+ CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS OF THE NATIVES--DEPARTURE FROM MADRAS,
+ ON HIS ROUTE TO NAGPORE,--ARRIVAL AT PONAMALEE, AND
+ DESCRIPTION OF THE SAME--HIS DEPARTURE AND ARRIVAL AT
+ CUDDAPAH.
+
+
+After I had thoroughly recovered, through the interest of a young
+German widow, I obtained my acquittal from the ship, and then
+proceeded to New Town for my passport. New Town lies about two miles
+and a half E. N. E. of Cuddalore, and is the residence of the
+Europeans in that neighbourhood; the houses of the Europeans are
+generally built of brick and those of the natives of wood. The day
+after I had obtained my passport I proceeded on my route and arrived
+at Pondicherry the same evening.
+
+Pondicherry is about four leagues in extent; the houses are built with
+brick, but the Indians use only wood, in the manner which we call lath
+and plaster. In a few days after I arrived in Madras, and took up my
+residence with a friend in Pursevaulkum.
+
+A few days after my arrival I proceeded with my friend to town.
+Madras, or Fort St. George, is a fort and town of the peninsula, on
+the coast of Coromandel. It is the principal settlement of the English
+on the east side of the peninsula, and is a fortress of great extent,
+including within it a regular well-built city. It is close to the sea
+shore, from which it has a rich and beautiful appearance, the houses
+being covered with a stucco, called _chunam_, which, in itself, is as
+compact as the finest marble, bears as high a polish, and is equally
+as splendid as that elegant material. There is a second city, called
+Black Town, nearly four miles in circumference, separated from Madras
+by the breadth of a proper esplanade. Madras, in common with all the
+European settlements on this coast, has no port for shipping, the
+coast forming nearly a straight line, and being incommoded with a high
+and dangerous surf. The citadel is situated in the middle of the
+White, or English Town, and is one of the best fortresses in the
+British possessions. The town is also encompassed with a strong wall
+of the same stone as that with which the citadel is built, and is
+defended by bastions, batteries, half-moons, flankers, and mortars.
+Opposite the west gate of the citadel are barracks and a convenient
+hospital for the company's soldiers, and at the other end is a mint
+where the company coin gold and silver.
+
+I was shortly after engaged as an overseer in the Madras Advertiser
+printing office, and as an assistant to the Madras Nautical Academy;
+but not agreeing with my employer I left it, and obtained permission
+to stop in the country as a free merchant.
+
+Mr. M. R----, with whom I resided, used all his interest to obtain for
+me some permanent situation under government, but it could not be
+effected. At length, being tired of an indolent life, I opened a
+school, which succeeded very well, when I was forced to relinquish
+it, owing to my ill state of health the confinement and severity of
+the weather brought on a languishing complaint, which would have
+terminated in my death had I persisted in continuing in my present
+employment.
+
+My friend being obliged to quit Madras, left me and his brother in
+charge of his house. My friends, during his absence, greatly
+contributed to my amusement, and, in short, spared no expense. One
+morning, passing through Vessory Bazar, I was greatly shocked at
+seeing the nabob's elephant take up a little child in his trunk and
+dash its brains out against the ground; the only reason that could be
+observed was, that the child had thrown some pebble stones at it; and
+the only redress the poor disconsolate mother could obtain was a gift
+of fifty pagodas from the nabob, which is about equal to twenty pounds
+sterling.
+
+During my friend's absence his mother and brother were carried off
+with the cholera morbus. The general estimate of deaths through the
+settlement is at least three hundred and fifty in one day; the natives
+have been known to sacrifice in one day and at one pagoda, fifty cocks
+and fifty kids, to appease their angry gods, and, in fact, some of the
+poor deluded creatures will go with a sword run through their cheeks
+in the fleshy part, and kept hanging in that position for some days,
+continually dance backwards and forwards through the different bazars;
+others have the palms of their hands pierced with a sword; others have
+their breasts burnt, and others again have an instrument run through
+their tongue in order to calm the wrath of their offended deities; nor
+can they, in their opinions, put themselves to sufficient torture.
+
+Shortly after my friend returned, I went to reside with a friend at
+Royaporum, south of Black Town, and soon afterwards I was engaged as
+an examiner in the accountant-general's office. After I had been a
+short time in this employ, I received an order to prepare for my
+departure for Nagpore, in the service of his highness the Rajah. On my
+return from the Fort St. George, I was greatly surprised at seeing an
+old man standing with his bare feet upon two pieces of wood in the
+form of a pair of pattens, with pointed pegs uppermost; he stood in
+that position for several days, with the blood running in torrents,
+and several of those who passed by gave him what their circumstances
+could well afford. A few days after I was invited to witness an Hindoo
+ceremony. We took our station at the top of a rich Persian's house,
+opposite a spacious esplanade and contiguous to a large pagoda; in the
+centre of the esplanade was fixed a capstern, with a pole about sixty
+feet long, which was fixed so as to be occasionally raised or
+lowered. Shortly after our arrival, a native, decorated with flowers,
+proceeded slowly towards the pagoda with tom-toms, and all kinds of
+Asiatic music; after he had prostrated himself in the pagoda, the
+Brahmin, a kind of priest, struck his side with a leather thong till
+it swelled to a considerable size, and then forced a butcher's hook
+through his side; he then composedly walked to the machine, and
+suffered himself to be fastened to a rope and suspended in the air
+with no other support than the butcher's hook; he went at least three
+times round a circle of about one hundred feet, and he kept his arms
+continually in motion during the whole time, fencing and throwing
+flowers among the bye standers, which were immediately picked up by
+them and kept as a religious relic. This ceremony is performed yearly
+for the purpose of those who have lost their cast, and may regain it
+by voluntarily undergoing this treatment. Eleven of them went through
+this torturing ceremony.
+
+I now began to put myself in readiness for my departure. On the
+morning of the 8th I dispatched my baggage and tents, together with a
+guard of eight peons (native police), which my friends had obtained
+for me, through their interest with the superintendent of the police.
+By the time I had taken leave of all my friends, and thanked them for
+their disinterested protection to a distressed seaman, I proceeded on
+my route (after receiving several more marks of their favours, Mr.
+C---- having presented me with an Arab horse, four baggage bullocks,
+and five hundred rupees, besides several letters of introduction) at
+eight o'clock in the evening. I travelled about five miles down the
+Ponamalee Road, and stopped at a village a little below the main
+guard, a small place with scarcely any fodder for the cattle. On the
+following morning, at a very early hour, we proceeded on our march,
+and arrived at Ponamalee about eight o'clock, where I found several of
+my friends waiting to take leave, as they expected that Ponamalee
+would have been the first stage.
+
+After having taken farewell of each other they returned back to
+Madras, and I hired for the day a small bungalow (or garden house)
+opposite the fort, where I determined to stay. Ponamalee is about
+fourteen miles W. S. W. of Madras. This small and beautiful town is
+situated upon a rising ground, which commands an extensive view of the
+adjacent country. The number of Europeans residing here is but few, as
+it is entirely out of the road for traffic. There is a fort which is
+situated upon a rising ground, and gives the village a romantic
+appearance. It forms a complete square, and on each angle is a small
+place erected in form of the body of a wind-mill, which was used
+formerly for the purpose of solitary confinement when the troops were
+quartered here, but is now occupied as lumber rooms; the fort is
+garrisoned by pensioners. The grand entrance is on the south side,
+and a small wicket is usually on the west. The fort is surrounded by a
+large moat about thirty feet in depth, the water is very clear and
+good, and is drank by the natives. The inner part is far from being
+roomy, owing to the extreme width of the ramparts. There are two or
+three small buildings for the use of the commanding officers, but now
+the residence of a school-master and two sergeants; in the centre is a
+small building with a dome on the top, which was used formerly for a
+chapel, but is now converted into a school for the instruction of the
+poor soldiers' children, and the two barracks are occupied by
+pensioners.
+
+On the following morning, about two o'clock, we prepared for our
+journey, and in a few days arrived at Naggery, a distance of about two
+hundred miles W. N. W. of Madras. The natives here are Hindoos, and
+the village is remarkably clean. The pagoda, or place of worship, is a
+fine large building, built in an oblong form, and beautifully gilt and
+carved all round with monkeys and apes. The Hindoos, in their manner
+of diet, are very abstemious, refraining from flesh; in fact, they
+will not eat any animal food; they are very regular in their morning
+ablutions, which they do by washing and marking themselves with chunam
+in the centre of their foreheads, according to the mark of their
+different casts. If any one neglects it he is immediately turned out
+of the cast, and his relations disown him, nor will they permit him
+once to enter their house. Such is their strictness, that the father
+has refused to see his son and the mother her daughter; and if they
+happen to perceive him at any distance they fly from him as they would
+from a serpent, thinking that his touch would pollute them.
+
+The roads here are very bad, being principally jungle; their principal
+cultivation is paddy (a kind of oats). On my arrival at Nundihall I
+was determined to rest for a couple of days, as two of my servants
+were in a very ill state of health. Nundihall is a beautiful town, the
+houses are built of brick, and are generally from three to four
+stories high; the streets were very dirty, owing to the number of
+paddy fields that surround the city, as the growth of it requires that
+the earth should be completely covered with water. The natives are
+generally Hindoos and Moors. The town is surrounded by a high brick
+wall.
+
+After leaving the town of Nundihall the roads were very bad, owing to
+the quantity of stones, and hills which were very steep and difficult
+to ascend. On the roads I had several disputes with the natives
+passing through Wuntimuttall, owing to my servants and the peons
+stealing the toddy from the trees. Toddy is a liquor which is
+extracted from the top veins of the cocoa-nut trees, which runs
+continually into a pot placed for that purpose. The liquor is very
+pleasant, and is reckoned very wholesome when drank early in the
+morning in a small quantity; if drunk in the heat of the day it causes
+acidity in the bowels, and often is the cause of the death of many
+Europeans. The natives drink it continually, and often get quite
+intoxicated with it.
+
+We arrived at Cuddapah on the 21st instant; it is a large and
+commodious town, and is inhabited by Mussulmen. Cuddapah is situated
+N. W. of Madras, one hundred and fifty-one miles distant, and the
+general estimate of inhabitants is at about two hundred thousand. The
+principal houses are built of brick and the inferior ones of mud.
+
+The Mahometans divide their religion into two general parts, faith and
+practice, of which the first is divided into six distinct
+branches--belief in God, in his angels, in his scriptures, in his
+prophets, in the resurrection and final judgment, and lastly, in God's
+absolute decrees. The points relating to practice, are prayer with
+washings, &c., alms, fasting, pilgrimages, and circumcision.
+
+The Mahometans pray five times in twenty-four hours, viz.: in the
+morning before sun-rise, when noon is past and the sun begins to
+decline from the meridian, in the afternoon before sun-set, in the
+evening after sun-set and before day is closed, and again in the
+evening and before the watch of the night. They fast with great
+strictness during the whole month of Ramadan, from the time the new
+moon first appears, during which period they must abstain from eating,
+drinking, and all other indulgences, from day-break till night or
+sun-set.
+
+The Europeans reside about two miles to the west of the native town,
+and have commodious houses, with fine spacious gardens; they are built
+of brick and much after the form of a gentleman's seat in England, but
+on a larger scale. I proceeded to the house of the collector, and on
+my road, my horse taking fright, I was thrown, and lost my purse
+containing all my money. My distress was now indescribable. Being left
+pennyless in the midst of a people totally destitute of Christian
+feeling, and without the probable means of obtaining the common
+necessaries of life, I arrived, in this miserable state of mind,
+bordering on despair, at the collector's, Mr. Hanbury, and after
+making him acquainted with my circumstances, he generously rendered me
+his assistance, paid my servants' wages that were in arrear, and
+kindly advanced what I thought sufficient to defray my expenses,
+having previously sent my peons back to Madras, and supplied me with
+fresh ones to proceed with me to Hydrabad.
+
+On the following day the rain came down in torrents, accompanied with
+thunder and lightning, which kept me within my tent and caused me to
+exclaim with Dr. Henry, "O, ye lightnings, that brood and lie couchant
+in the sulphureous vapours, that glance with forked fury from the
+angry gloom, swifter and fiercer than the lion rushes from his den, or
+open with vast expansive sheets of flame, sublimely waved over the
+prostrate world, and fearfully lingering in the affrighted skies!" "Ye
+thunders, that awfully grumble in the distant clouds, seem to meditate
+indignation, and from the first essays of a far more frightful peal;
+or suddenly bursting over your heads, rend the vault above and shake
+the ground below with a hideous and horrid crack!" In the evening the
+weather began to clear up, which induced me to walk out, when taking
+two peons as a guard, I proceeded south of the town, on a beautiful
+plain: the pleasantness of the weather, and the stillness of the
+evening, tempted me to prolong my walk, and inspired my mind to
+contemplate on the wonderful works of Providence, who had so lately
+showered down his blessings upon me, in preserving me from want in the
+midst of a heathen world. The sun had almost finished his daily
+course, and sunk lower and lower till he seemed to hover on the verge
+of the sky!
+
+The globe is now half immured beneath the dusky earth; or, as the
+ancient poet speaks, "is shooting into the ocean, and sinks into the
+western sea." The whole face of the ground was overspread with shades,
+and what the painters of nature call "dun obscurity." Only a few
+superior eminences, tipt with streaming silver, the tops of groves and
+lofty towers that catch the last smiles of day, were still irradiated
+by the departing beams. But, O how transient is the destination--how
+momentary the gift! like all the blessings which mortals enjoy below,
+it is gone almost as soon as granted. How languishingly it trembled on
+the leafy spire, and glimmered with dying faintness on the mountain's
+sable brow! till it expired and resigned the world to the gradual
+approaches of night.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VII.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CUDDAPAH--DESCRIPTION OF THE
+ DIFFERENT VILLAGES, AND ARRIVAL AT HYDRABAD--DESCRIPTION OF
+ HYDRABAD, AND DEPARTURE THEREFROM--ARRIVAL AT NERMUL.
+
+
+On the morning of the 27th, I proceeded on my route over the chain
+hills, with which the town of Cuddapah is surrounded; the roads are
+very good, but the steepness of the hills made it very fatiguing: in
+six hours I arrived at Batoor, a distance of twelve miles. Batoor is a
+large village, the houses are built of mud and bamboo, and form a
+motley group; the only protection they have from the number of robbers
+which infest that part, is a small fort, about two hundred square
+feet; the ramparts are about fourteen feet in thickness, and at each
+angle a small gun is mounted upon a pivot, about three feet from its
+walls; the fort in general is very much out of repair; the inhabitants
+are Hindoos, and are very indolent; the land is quite barren and free
+from cultivation. The cruelty with which Europeans in general act
+towards these poor captives is really disgraceful, and cannot but be
+censured by all who cherish the least trait of humanity with their
+breast.
+
+When an European passes through any of the villages, and is in want of
+any coolies, or porters, to carry his baggage, he orders his guards to
+press every man he can meet with, and compel him to carry whatever his
+barbarous protector chooses he should labour under, and if there is
+not sufficient men, to press the women, without considering whether
+they have any family to provide for. It has been frequently known,
+that the mother has been forced to leave her infant babe from her
+breast upon the bare earth to provide for itself, to carry the baggage
+of a merciless enemy, whose only payment, after going fifteen or
+sixteen Indian miles, is, if she complains, a _bambooing_, (that is a
+caning,) and, perhaps, after she gets home, which cannot be till the
+next day, she finds her poor infant dead for want.
+
+We passed through Parmunsa, and arrived at Moorkandah, which is a
+small village, and in a very ruinous condition, as it is at the foot
+of the Ghaut; the inhabitants are but few in number, and are
+principally Brahmins, consequently provisions are very scarce; on my
+requesting the cutwall, or headman of the village, to bring some
+fowls, he refused, and said there were none in the place, although I
+repeatedly heard the crowing of a cock. The impudent manner in which
+the man answered me, made me doubt the truth of what he said; in order
+to ascertain it, I took two peons and my gun and went round the
+village, and found a full grown cock; I caught it, and ordered it to
+be carried to my tent and killed; the natives by this time were in
+arms, and before any of us were aware of it, they had secured the
+peons and surrounded me, demanding the cock: when they were informed
+of its death, they all began to weep and raised a most lamentable cry,
+and said it was devoted to their god, and that the heaviest curses
+would follow me. I expected their denunciations would have paid for
+it; but in that I was greatly mistaken, for they demanded payment for
+it; and to avoid any injury to my peons, I offered them one rupee,
+considering that it would be equal to the price of eighteen cocks; but
+they disdainfully refused it, and said that they must offer gifts to
+their god to appease his anger, and to pay their sadura to intercede
+in their behalf. I remonstrated with them; but to no avail, as they
+would not take less than ten rupees. I tried all in my power to make
+my escape from them; but when they perceived my intentions, they drew
+their scimitars, and held them to my breast, and said, provided I did
+not accede to their offer, they would not spare the lives of my peons
+nor myself, as they could not get it replaced for forty times that
+sum, which was presented to them by their rajah. The price I
+considered to be extortionate, (but I paid it,) as fowls are sold in
+the different villages round that neighbourhood for one penny each,
+sheep for ten-pence, and every other article in proportion.
+
+On the following morning, at a very early hour, I crossed the Ghaut;
+in the centre there is a very great declivity on each side the road,
+about two hundred feet in depth, and the Ghaut is very steep, and
+covered with flint-stone, which made it very difficult for the horse
+and cattle to pass: it is about twelve miles in length, and at the
+foot of it is the village of Badnapore. The inhabitants are very
+peaceable, and the village is close on the borders of Khristnah river.
+We made all possible haste to cross, which was effected by means of a
+large round basket, which is continually whirling round in the river.
+The river is about a quarter of a mile in width, but the heavy current
+carried us nearly two miles down; and owing to the exertions of the
+cattle, we encamped close on its banks. On the following day we passed
+Pungall-hill fort, which is situate on the summit of a very steep
+mount, and is built of mud, and large enough to contain ten thousand
+troops; it is only accessible on the north-east angle, which is easily
+blockaded in case of necessity. In five days we arrived at Hydrabad.
+
+Hydrabad lies about 350 miles north-west of Madras; the houses are
+built of brick, and generally run four and five stories high. The
+inhabitants are principally Mahometans interspersed with Hindoos.
+
+The Mahometans will not suffer a Christian to touch their cooking
+utensils or fuel by any means, and if such should be done, they
+consider them as polluted, and they will instantly break and destroy
+them; and while they are in the act of eating, if touched by any one
+of another sect, they will not swallow what is even in their mouth,
+but will throw it out, and go through a regular purification by
+washing and prayer.
+
+After I had been at Hydrabad a few days, I joined a small party to
+view the interior: while we were taking breakfast, a cavalcade of
+elephants came up to the door with a number of peons. After we had
+mounted them we proceeded through the south gate into the city; the
+streets were particularly dirty, owing to there being no drains. The
+town is supplied with water by a well about two hundred feet in
+circumference.
+
+On our entrance into the minister's house we were surprised at seeing
+a battalion of female sepoys (soldiers) presenting arms to us. We
+stood to see them go through their military manoeuvres, which they
+did with dexterity; we then proceeded towards the house, which is
+built entirely of cedar-wood, but in a very ordinary manner, owing to
+the number of apartments: every room is carved in a beautiful and
+masterly style, from the ceiling to the floor. This ornament is very
+common among the lower classes, who have the devices of their gods
+carved on the doors of their houses. The apartments form a complete
+square, and in the centre is a stone tank. We next proceeded to a
+gallery of looking-glasses; the only one worthy of notice is about
+eighteen feet long and sixteen wide; there is likewise a whole length
+painting of Earl Moira, Governor-General of India. We afterwards
+proceeded to the palace of the Rajah: on our entrance into the inner
+court, we were agreeably surprised at seeing a quantity of tea-cups,
+saucers, &c. of various colours, placed against the wall in form of
+elephants, tigers, serpents, &c. in the most superb manner; in the
+centre is a large tank, containing a great quantity of salmon-trout. I
+had the honour of being introduced to the Rajah's sons, but his
+Highness was not present.
+
+After having obtained a guard of twelve sepoys and two naigues, I
+proceeded on my route, and in a few days arrived at Nermul.
+
+Nermul is a large and beautiful city, surrounded by a fort, and is
+about three miles in circumference, and is on a rising ground, 205
+miles north-north-east of Hydrabad, and in the heart of the jungle,
+it is under the command of Major Woodhouse. The inhabitants are
+principally Moors.
+
+I pitched my tent in the middle of a burying-ground, by the side of a
+running stream, and owing to the fatigue I had experienced, I now
+resolved to sojourn for two days. This place suited my present state
+of mind.
+
+My attention was soon attracted by a magnificent tomb, and upon
+examining the inscription, it proved to be a rajah's. The gardens were
+ingeniously planned, and a thousand elegant decorations designed; but,
+alas! their intended possessor is gone down "to the place of sculls!"
+
+While I am recollecting, many, I question not, are experiencing the
+same tragical vicissitude. The eyes of the Sublime Being, who sits
+upon the circle of the earth, and views all its inhabitants with one
+incomprehensive glance, even now behold as many tents in affliction as
+overwhelmed the Egyptians in that fatal night when the destroying
+angel sheathed his arrows in all the pride of their strength; some
+sinking to the floor from their easy chair, and deaf even amidst the
+piercing shrieks of their distracted relations; some giving up the
+ghost as they retired, or lay reclined under the shady harbour to
+taste the sweets of the flowery scene; some as they sail with a party
+of pleasure along the silver stream and through the laughing meads!
+nor is the grim intruder terrified though wine and music flow around.
+
+"Those who received vast revenues, and called whole lordships their
+own, are reduced to half a dozen feet of earth, or confined in a few
+sheets of lead! Rooms of state and sumptuous furniture are resigned
+for no other ornament than the _shroud_, for no other apartment than
+the darksome _niche_! Where is the star that blazed upon the breast,
+or the glittered sceptre? The only remains of departed dignity are the
+weather-beaten hatchment. I see no splendid retinue surrounding this
+solitary dwelling. The princely equipage hovers no longer about their
+lifeless master, he has no other attendant than a dusty _statue_;
+which, while the regardless world is as gay as ever, the sculptor's
+hand has taught to weep."
+
+
+
+
+SECTION VIII.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM NERMUL AND ARRIVAL AT
+ NAGPORE--HIS DEPARTURE, AND ARRIVAL AT JAULNAH--THE AUTHOR'S
+ DEPARTURE FROM JAULNAH AND ARRIVAL AT POONAH, AND
+ DESCRIPTION OF THE VILLAGES WITH THEIR RELIGION--HIS ARRIVAL
+ AT BOMBAY, AND HIS DISTRESS--SKETCH OF BOMBAY AND ACCOUNT OF
+ THE PERSIAN RELIGION--HE JOINS THE HONOURABLE COMPANY'S SHIP
+ MARQUIS OF HUNTLY, AS CAPTAIN'S CLERK--HIS DEPARTURE FROM
+ BOMBAY AND ARRIVAL AT BENGAL.
+
+
+After remaining two days, I proceeded on my route; and on the
+following day arrived at Wadoor, a distance of fourteen miles, across
+a long succession of hills, the roads over which are very rugged and
+covered with stones; Wadoor lies in a valley, at the foot of a large
+mountain, and is hardly perceivable from the top.
+
+On the 20th December, we travelled along a beautiful and finely
+cultivated country, the produce of which is cholum and paddy, which
+grows in great quantities; the inhabitants are very civil, and
+principally Moor men. On the 25th December, 1821, I arrived at
+Nagpore, and on the same evening was seized with the Nagpore fever,
+which is always accompanied by fits of the ague. The fever is supposed
+to originate from the excessive heats of the day, and the extreme cold
+of the night.
+
+I endeavoured as much as possible that my ill state of health should
+not keep me from my employment, but attended to it very assiduously;
+which I persevered in till the 27th of March, when the doctor informed
+me, that I had better leave the Presidency or I should endanger my
+life, as the hot winds generally set in in the middle of April, which
+frequently prove very dangerous to European invalids.
+
+On the 2nd of April, after having previously obtained my passport and
+a guard of twelve Seapoys, I proceeded on my route, and towards
+evening arrived at Tukea, where, owing to my ill state of health, I
+was compelled to stop two days.
+
+On the 12th I arrived at Ouronty, which is S. W. by W. of Nagpore,
+about 100 miles. The town is very large, and is surrounded by a brick
+wall; the houses are built of brick, and are generally three stories
+high. The inhabitants are Mussulmen. In the afternoon I went to the
+palace of the Rajah, (Rajah ram.) His palace outside is very dirty,
+owing to his guard making fires against the walls for cooking. On my
+desiring to see the Rajah, I was conducted through a long dreary
+passage, with the walls, to all appearance, covered with grease and
+filth, at the end of which is a large court-yard, which has a very
+different appearance, the Rajah's apartments being all round; at the
+end were six Peons waiting to conduct me to his highness, with silver
+staves, about eleven feet long, with a device of Mahomet on the top;
+on my introduction to the Rajah's apartment, he was sitting
+cross-legged with his hooker; at my entrance he arose and made three
+salams in token of respect to the British nation. After questioning me
+where I was going to, and my reasons for so doing, he presented me
+with two camel-hair shawls, by placing them across my shoulder; then
+taking his leave.
+
+On the following day, I proceeded on my route, and on the 20th arrived
+at Luckenwarry; where there is good encampment and water, and the
+natives are principally Hindoos. Early on the following morning we
+began to cross the Luckenwarry Ghaut; the roads were steep and not
+above ten feet wide, and on each side a vacuity of about 250 feet
+deep. The light in the lantern being extinguished, and the moon being
+obscured, my horse, had it not been for the horse-keeper, would have
+precipitated me to the bottom; I instantly dismounted, and the
+horse-keeper led him till he was clear of the Ghaut. On the centre is
+a large gate, which stands about forty feet high, and which, during
+the war, had withstood a three months' siege.
+
+Passing through the jungle between the villages of Currone and
+Chickly, we were greatly surprised at seeing a large party on camels;
+we hailed them and enquired who they were, but we could not by any
+means obtain an answer; when finding they persisted in their
+obstinacy, the Naigues suspected them of belonging to the party of
+Sheik Dullah, a noted robber who had already committed many
+depredations in that neighbourhood, and on our desiring them to move
+to the left of us if they were friends, they made a sudden halt; the
+sepoys then drew up in a line, and the followers began to guard their
+baggage, but when they saw our number, they went off to the left of
+us, grumbling.
+
+On the 24th, we arrived at Jaulnah. It bears W. by S., of Nagpore,
+distant 180 miles. On the following day, after I had taken sufficient
+rest, I presented my passport to the Adjutant-General, and delivered
+up the guard, having previously obtained another. Jaulnah is a large
+town, surrounded by a brick wall, about twenty feet in height; the
+houses are generally of brick, and from three to four stories; the
+inhabitants are principally Hindoos, interspersed with Persians and
+Mussulmen. The cantonment is the head quarters of the British army on
+this side the Deccan.--Jaulnah has a civil and military government.
+
+After staying two days, I proceeded on my route, and on the 19th of
+May I arrived at Poonah. It bears S. S. E. of Bombay, and is in the
+territories of the Peishwa: it is about forty miles distant from
+Bombay. I took up my residence with a friend, commander of the
+Sebundaries; during my route, I passed through Armigabad, Amednagur,
+and Seroor; which is the residence of Europeans, and has detachments
+of different regiments quartered at each town: their houses are in
+general of brick and stone, their religion is Hindoo.
+
+The Hindoos are divided into four tribes, first the Brahmin; second,
+the Khatry; third, the Bhyse; fourth, the Sooders; all these have
+their distinct sects, and cannot intermingle with each other; but for
+some offences they are expelled their sects, which is the highest
+punishment they can suffer. In this manner a kind of fifth sect,
+called Pariah, is formed of the dregs of the people, who are employed
+only in the meanest capacity. There is a kind of division which
+pervades the four sects indiscriminately; which is taken from the
+worship of their gods VISHNOU and SHEEVAH; the worshippers of the
+former being named Vishnou bukht, and of the latter, Sheevah bukht.
+
+Of these four sects the Brahmins have the superiority, and all the
+laws show such a partiality towards them, as cannot but induce us to
+suppose that they have had the principal hand in framing them. They
+are not allowed the privilege of sovereignty; but are solely kept for
+the instruction of the people. They are alone allowed to read the Veda
+or Sacred Books. The Khatries or sect next in dignity, being only
+allowed to hear them read, while the other two read the Satras, or
+commentaries upon them; but the poor Chandalas are not allowed to
+enter their temple, or to be present at any religious ceremony.
+
+In point of precedence, the Brahmins claim a superiority even to
+princes, the latter being chosen of Khatry or second sect. In fact the
+Brahmin claims every privilege, and the inferior sects give place to
+him; the Hindoos are allowed to eat no flesh nor to shed blood. Their
+food is rice and dholl, and other vegetables, dressed with ghee (dholl
+is a kind of split pea, ghee, a kind of butter, melted and refined to
+make it capable of being kept a long time) and seasoned with ginger
+and other spices. The food which they most esteem is milk, as coming
+from the cow; an animal for which they have the most extravagant
+veneration, insomuch that it is enacted in the code of Gentoo laws,
+that any one who exacts labour from a bullock that is hungry or
+thirsty, or shall oblige him to labour when fatigued, is liable to be
+fined by the magistrates.
+
+The Hindoos are remarkable for their ingenuity in all kinds of
+handicraft; but their utensils are simple and in many respects
+inconvenient, so that incredible labour and patience are necessary,
+for the accomplishment of any work; and for this the Hindoos are
+remarkable. The religion of the Hindoos is contained in certain books,
+called Vedas; and, though now involved in superstition, seems to have
+been originally pure, inculcating the belief of an Eternal Being,
+possessed of every divine perfection. Their subordinate deities,
+Brahma, Vishnou, and Sheevah, are only representatives of the wisdom,
+goodness, and power of the supreme god Brahma; whom they call the
+principles of Truth, the spirit of Wisdom, and the Supreme Being; so
+that it is probable that all their idols were at first only designed
+to represent these attributes: they believe in ten Avators, or
+incarnation of the Deity, nine of which have taken place for the
+punishment of tyrants, or removing some great natural calamity; and
+the tenth is to take place at the dissolution of the universe. Several
+of the Avators inculcate the transmigration of souls, and the ninth of
+them, which forbids the sacrifices of animals, gave rise to the
+religion of Gauda Boodma, or Fo.
+
+Their deities are extremely numerous, and are generally supposed to
+have first originated in Italy and Greece.
+
+After stopping six days, I proceeded to Bombay, and on the 30th of May
+I arrived there. After delivering my passport, I made application for
+a ship for England, and was some time before I could get one; and the
+great expense I incurred in living at a tavern, made me entirely
+pennyless, so that I was forced to dispose of the shawls which I had
+presented me by the Rajah of Omrouty, and for which I received three
+hundred rupees each. But before I was finally settled, I had not above
+ten rupees left.
+
+Bombay is an island of Hindostan, on the west coast of the Deccan,
+seven miles in length, and about twenty-one miles in circumference;
+the ground is barren, and good water scarce; it was formerly
+considered very unhealthy, but by draining the swamps and bogs the air
+is much improved; the inhabitants are of several nations and very
+numerous, but are principally Persians.
+
+The religion of the Persians is, generally, Paganism, directed
+principally by the priests of magi, men of strict austere life,
+forbidding the use of either ornament or gold; making the ground their
+bed, and herbs their food. Their whole time is spent in offering to
+the gods the prayers and sacrifices of the people, as they only might
+be heard.
+
+The people are _Gentiles_; as to their religion, they worship the sun
+and moon, and various heavenly bodies, from whom they suppose they
+derive every blessing of light and warmth; and every morning they
+gather themselves round the beech and present their morning oblations,
+by pouring into the sea quantities of milk and odoriferous flowers,
+and prostrating themselves with their faces to the earth, as a mark of
+adoration to their rising deity (the sun.) Besides other gods which
+the Gentiles worship, they are great idolaters of fire, which they
+offer sacrifices to in time of peace, and carry it with them, as their
+tutelar deity in time of war. Their adoration is so great, that the
+first candle they see lighted, let it be in whose place it will, they
+immediately stop and repeat a prayer. In their habitation they never
+put it out after it is once lighted.
+
+Besides the town of Bombay, which is about a mile in length, with mean
+houses (a few only excepted), there is a capacious harbour or bay,
+reckoned the finest haven in the east, where all ships may find
+security from the inclemency of the different seasons. After remaining
+here for the space of three months, I was engaged as captain's clerk
+on board the Hon. Company's Ship Marquis of Huntly. We sailed from
+hence July 25, 1820, and arrived at the new anchorage in nineteen
+days' sail; soon after I went up to Calcutta on duty for the ship.
+
+Calcutta, or _Fort William_, the emporium of Bengal, and principal
+seat of India, is situated on the western side of the Hoogely river,
+at about ninety-six miles from its mouth, which is navigable up to the
+town for large ships. This extensive and beautiful town is supposed to
+contain between four and five hundred thousand inhabitants. The houses
+are variously built, some of brick, others of mud and cow-dung, and a
+great number with bamboos (a large kind of reed or cane) and mats. The
+bamboos are placed as stakes in the ground, and crossed with others in
+different ways, so as to enable them to make the matting fast, when
+for the roofing they lay them one upon the other, when a large family
+lie in that small compass of about six feet square, which makes a very
+motley appearance. The mixture of European and Asiatic manners
+observed in Calcutta is wonderful; coaches, phaetons, hackeries,
+two-wheeled carriages drawn by bullocks, palanquins carried by the
+natives, and the passing ceremonies of Hindoos, and the different
+appearance of the faquirs, form a diversified and curious appearance.
+The European houses have, many of them, the appearance of palaces or
+temples, and the inhabitants are very hospitable.
+
+After the cargo was sent on board I returned to the ship, but on our
+passage down the river we were compelled to lie out in the river,
+owing to the great boar, as it is called; it is a quick overflowing of
+the water, which rises in a great body and with such violence that it
+breaks down all before it. It arises from the narrowness of the river,
+and the force which it makes from the sea; in the course of two
+minutes it rises to the height of four or five feet.
+
+Lying in one of the creeks till the tide was turned, I was greatly
+alarmed by the men getting into the boat in great disorder and
+telling me that it was a crocodile which I had for a long time
+observed, and mistaken for the hull of a tree. A crocodile is an
+amphibious voracious animal, in shape resembling a lizard. It is
+covered with very hard scales, which cannot but with difficulty be
+pierced, except under the belly, where the skin is tender. It has a
+wide throat, with several rows of teeth, sharp and separated, which
+enter one another.
+
+On my arrival on board every thing was in confusion, as we expected to
+sail in a few days.
+
+
+
+
+SECTION IX.
+
+ THE AUTHOR'S DEPARTURE FROM CALCUTTA, AND ARRIVAL AT
+ CHINA--AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR RELIGION, CUSTOMS, AND MANNERS,
+ AND OF HIS BEING ROBBED ON DANES' ISLAND--THE AUTHOR'S
+ DEPARTURE FROM CHINA AND ARRIVAL AT ANJURE POINT--THE
+ CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF THE MALAYS--DEPARTURE THEREFROM, AND
+ ARRIVAL AT ST. HELENA--DESCRIPTION OF THE EMPEROR NAPOLEON'S
+ TOMB AND HOUSES--DEPARTURE FROM ST. HELENA, AND ARRIVAL IN
+ ENGLAND.
+
+
+We sailed from Bengal in company with the Hon. Company's Ship Dunira,
+October 19th, 1820, with a fine breeze, and arrived at Pulo Penang, or
+Prince of Wales's Island, on the 6th of November. The houses have a
+noble appearance, and are built after the form of those in Calcutta.
+The inhabitants are principally Malays; of them I shall speak more
+hereafter. After having received on board a quantity of rattan, as
+private trade for the captain, we made sail and arrived at Macao, on
+January 26th, 1821, after a long and tedious voyage.
+
+Macao, a town of China, in the province of Canton, is seated in an
+inland at the entrance of the river Tae. The Portuguese have been in
+possession of the town and harbour since the early part of the
+seventeenth century. The houses are low and built after the European
+manner; the Portuguese are properly a mixed breed, having been married
+to Asiatic women. Here is a Portuguese Governor as well as a Chinese
+Mandarin. The former nation pays a great tribute to choose their own
+magistrates. The city is defended by three forts, built upon
+eminences; and the works are good and well planted with artillery.
+
+On the 29th we anchored off the second bar, and found lying here the
+Hon. Company's Ship Canning, and two or three other Company's ships;
+on the 30th weighed and made sail, but there not being water enough,
+removed back to our old station. On the following day we crossed
+Whampo. After the cargo was discharged I went up to Canton.
+
+Canton is a large and populous city, situated in one of the first
+rivers in the empire. It is the capital of the province of Quan-tong,
+and the centre of the European trade in that country. The streets are
+long and straight, paved with flag stones, and adorned with lofty
+arches. The houses are remarkably neat, but consist only of one story,
+and they have no windows to the streets. The covered market place is
+full of shops. The inhabitants are estimated at about 1,000,000; many
+of whom reside in barks, which touch one another, form a kind of
+floating city, and are so arranged as to form streets. Each bark
+lodges a family and their grand children, who have no other dwelling.
+At break of day all the people who inhabit them depart to fish or to
+cultivate their rice.
+
+The frugal and laborious manner in which the great live, the little
+attention which is paid to the vain and ridiculous prejudice of
+marrying below rank; the ancient policy of giving distinction to men
+and not to families, by attaching nobility only to employments and
+talents, without suffering it to be hereditary; and the decorum
+observed in public, are admirable traits in the Chinese character.
+
+There is little distinction in the dress of men and women; rank and
+dignity are only distinguished by the ornaments they wear, and they
+dare not presume to wear any thing without proper authority, without
+being severely chastised for it. Their dress in general consists of a
+long vest, which reaches to the ground, one part of it, on the left
+side, folds over the other, and is fastened to the right by four or
+five small gold or silver buttons placed at a little distance from one
+another. The sleeves are wide towards the shoulder, and grow narrow
+towards the wrist--they terminate in the form of a horse-shoe--round
+their middle they wear a large girdle of silk, the ends of which hang
+down to their knees; from this girdle is suspended a sheath,
+containing a knife, and over all they wear a loose jacket down to the
+middle, with loose short sleeves, generally lined with fur, and under
+all they wear a kind of net to prevent it from chafing. The general
+colour of these dresses is black or blue.
+
+Their religion is idolatry, their principal idol is _Fong Chon_, and
+they are very superstitious, believing in magic and invocation of
+spirits, and the art of foretelling events by divination.
+
+While receiving our cargo on board, a Chinaman belonging to one of the
+craft, stole a box of tea, but, by the exertion of our officers, the
+culprit was taken and immediately sent on shore to Dane's Island to
+the mandarine. He was found guilty of the crime, and his punishment
+three dozen blows with the bastinado. The instrument of correction,
+called pan-tsee, is a bamboo a little flattened, broad at the bottom,
+and polished at the upper extremity, in order to manage it more easily
+with the hand.
+
+The culprit, after the mandarin has given the signal for punishment,
+is seized and stretched out with his belly flat on the ground, his
+breeches are pulled down to his heels, and on the mandarine throwing
+down a stick, of which he has a number by him, one of the officers in
+attendance uses the pan-tsee, and gives him five severe blows, which
+are succeeded by several others till the number is complete. When it
+is over, the criminal must throw himself on his knees, incline his
+body three times to the earth, and thank his judge for the trouble he
+has taken in his correction.
+
+The mandarins are of two classes, viz.; those of letters, and the
+inferior sort are styled mandarins of arms. The latter class do not
+enjoy the same consideration as the former.
+
+The Chinese in general are much addicted to commit depredations on the
+pockets, or, in fact, on any unguarded property. After all our cargo
+was received on board, I went in company with two midshipmen, Mr.
+C---- and Mr. R----, on Dane's Island. After we landed some Chinese
+came and decoyed us to their village, which was at the back of a
+number of hills and out of sight of the shipping, under a promise that
+they would let us have some of their country fruit, such as they sent
+us on board. The length of time that some of them were absent, and the
+sun going down fast, made us rather doubt the sincerity of their
+intentions; those that were with us begged that we would stop till the
+sun was down, but we began to be afraid of our lives. When the men saw
+that we were determined to wait no longer, they gave a dreadful whoop,
+which was answered by others stationed on the hills; they immediately
+seized hold of us and rifled our pockets.
+
+On March 25th we sailed down to Macao, and on the following day we
+took our departure, and on the 24th of April arrived at Anjier point,
+and is a settlement belonging to the Dutch; it lies to the east of
+Batavia. The houses are generally built of bamboo; the inhabitants are
+of various casts, Pagans, Mahometans, and Chinese. The barbarism of
+the Batta Tribes is horrible, for they kill and eat their criminals or
+prisoners of war, or even sacrifice their own relations when aged and
+infirm, not so much with a view to gratify their appetites, as to
+perform a pious ceremony. Thus, when a man becomes infirm and weary of
+the world, he is said to invite his own children to eat him when salt
+and limes are cheapest. He then ascends a tree, round which his
+friends and offspring assemble, and as they shake the tree they join
+in a funeral dirge, the import of which is, the season is come, the
+fruit is ripe, and it must descend. The victim descends, and those
+that are nearest deprive him of life, and devour his remains in a
+solemn banquet.
+
+In a few days we made sail. We arrived at St. Helena, on the 10th of
+July, 1821. This island is situated in the South Atlantic Ocean, its
+circumference is about twenty miles, and at a distance it has the
+appearance of a large rock rising out of the sea. On rounding the
+island it has a very romantic appearance; the town lying in a valley
+presents to the eye a beautiful chain of scenery. It has some very
+high mountains, particularly one called Diana's Peak, which is covered
+with wood to the very summit. There are other hills also, which bear a
+volcanic appearance, and some have huge rocks of lava, and a kind of
+half-vitrified flags. James Town is erected in a valley at the bottom
+of a bay, between two steep dreary mountains, and has from the
+shipping a noble appearance.
+
+Accommodations are tolerably good, and the inhabitants, generally
+speaking, are very hospitable. Their villas are pleasantly situated,
+and have a fine view of the sea; the whole face of the country is
+really romantic; the hills are immensely high, and the valleys very
+narrow; and in many of them there are a few houses, which give the
+whole island a very picturesque appearance.
+
+After obtaining a passport from the Adjutant-General, I went over a
+long succession of hills to see the habitations of the late Emperor
+Napoleon Bonaparte. The roads were very difficult to ascend, and
+particularly rugged. The remains of this great and illustrious
+personage are buried in a deep valley, about three miles from James
+town, and about two miles from his late residence at Longwood, under
+the peaceful shade of three weeping willows, and which also, (as in
+respect to his dust,) lend a solemn air of reverential darkness to the
+memorable _well_, from which, during his pilgrimages, he was wont to
+receive his refreshing draughts.
+
+No stately monument marks the spot; no polished alabaster, or the
+mimicry of sculptured marble marks his grave: the real excellency of
+the patriot is written on the minds of his countrymen; it will be
+remembered with applause as long as the nation subsists, without this
+artificial expedient to perpetuate it.
+
+Let the poor pass by his grave, and thankfully acknowledge, there lies
+the man who gloriously fought for his country and his subjects, to
+free them from the galling yoke of tyranny and oppression: no tablets
+are written to mark his actions, but those which are written in the
+heart of his subjects.
+
+The depth of his tomb is about twenty feet, and his coffin rests upon
+two pedestals, ten feet high. His body is enclosed in four coffins,
+first lead, second deal, third mahogany, and fourth marble. What is
+very remarkable is, that part of his tomb is made of the flag-stones
+of his new house, taken out of one of the kitchens. After viewing the
+tomb of the man who was the most brilliant meteor in the political
+world, I proceeded up to Longwood, to take a view of the habitation in
+which he died.
+
+After presenting my passport I had permission to inspect the premises:
+the officer took great pains in shewing me the very spot on which he
+quitted his troubles and persecutions, when he kindly left me to make
+what sort of reflections I thought proper. The darkness of the room
+gave it a very solemn appearance, and suited the mind to contemplate
+upon this late extraordinary character;--but a short period past he
+was the terror of the world, and now, alas! what is he? He is laid low
+in the tomb, unregretted and unpitied by his merciless enemies. A
+gleam of light through the casements reflected a dead glimmer through
+the gloomy mansion. The _most illustrious_ have claimed the _tomb_ for
+their last retreat; rooms of state are resigned! the sceptre has
+ceased to wield, and sumptuous banquets are neglected for no other
+ornament than the winding sheet! "Where is the star that blazed upon
+his breast, or the coronet that glittered round his temples?" Alas!
+they are resigned and given over, through the power of the tyrant hand
+of death.
+
+I have often walked between the impending promontory's craggy cliff; I
+have sometimes trod the vast spaces of the lonely desert, and
+penetrated the inmost recesses of the dreary cavern; but never beheld
+Nature lowering with so dreadful a form; never felt impressions of
+such awe striking cold on my heart, as under this roof; every thing
+seemed to participate in grief for their deceased lord. The rooms were
+very dirty and much neglected. The plants in his late garden seemed to
+droop their heads in sorrow for the loss of the hand that reared them.
+
+I next proceeded to the palace which had been sent from England, and
+really it would have reflected honour on the British nation, and no
+sovereign in the world need wish for a more magnificent one, had it
+been placed in a more healthy part of the island.
+
+We sailed for England on the 29th, and arrived on the 13th of
+September, 1821, after a speedy and pleasant passage.
+
+
+THE END.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Voyage to India; of a
+Shipwreck on board the Lady Castlereagh; and a Description of New South Wales, by W. B. Cramp
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